ILA MORINAIS –RESTAURANT AT THE FARM, CAMPING AND GÎTE
1 LA MORINAIS, 35600 BAINS-SUR-OUST www.fermelamorinais.com
OPENING HOURS:
Restaurant: open all year Thursday to Saturday 7:30–11:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday 12:30–3:00 pm; Reservation required
The campsite is open from midApril to mid-October
In the 1980s, a whole wave of farmers opened up their farms to guests and food lovers. Pierre-Louis Guérin’s parents were among them, managing about 120 acres (50 hectares) of land in the Pays de Redon. The landscape there is shaped by water; rivers, canals, and wetlands crisscross the plains, reflecting the light and the sky.
The son initially left this green fairytale land. But a few years ago, in his early 30s, he returned and took over the farm including the restaurant, guest accommodation, and a small meadow campsite. There was no pressure, he says, even though the land has been in the family for five generations. The decision was allowed to take its time, and in the end, he embraced it with joy and confidence. Pierre-Louis is supported by his partner Samia Gharet, and their fiveyear-old daughter loves to help out—especially when there are sweet berries to pick. The sprawling garden is crammed with all kinds of vegetables and fruit, from watermelons to strawberries. The fields are taken up with grain for their chickens: Coucou de Rennes, a rare heritage breed from the re -
gion. The sheep and lambs grazing alongside are Landes de Bretagne, once almost extinct and now flourishing here again. The majority of the harvest and livestock is destined for the farm kitchen.
“In our kitchen, the garden sets the tone,” enthuses Adrien Chouquet, the young chef. After years spent working in Australia, he eventually started missing the familiar flavors of home but found home town of Nantes too big for comfort. So he searched online for ferme-auberge — farm inn—and there it was: his dream job. A farm off the beaten tourist track, but still central enough to attract guests with a menu of creative dishes.
His colleague Laura shares his passion. She had no desire to continue working in kitchens where luxury products are flown in from all over the world and appearance is more important than flavor. Here, almost nothing is bought in, and food waste is virtually non-existent. “We even find a solution for vegetables that are not so pretty,” she affirms. And those solutions are certainly delicious!
Far left – The couple keeps heritage sheep breeds like Landes de Bretagne.
Left – Dining with farm views
Below – Pierre-Louis and Samia in the middle of the garden, which “sets the tone in the kitchen”
WHERE EVERYTHING COMES TOGETHER
Chef Laura worked in Germany for a long time and seizes every chance to show off her (near-flawless) German. Her home away from home also supplied the idea for one of her favorite desserts: She accompanies the Breton classic far breton—in her version, with rhubarb instead of prunes—with rich spiced red wine syrup.
CHOU REINE DES PRÉS, CARAMEL AU BEURRE SALÉ, CHOUCHOU DE TOURNESOL
CHOUX PUFFS WITH SALTED CARAMEL AND SUNFLOWER SEEDS
SERVES 10 DIFFICULTY
MEADOWSWEET CREAM
2 sheets gelatin
1 cup/8¾ fl oz (250 ml) milk
1–2 g dried meadowsweet
2 egg yolks
1¾ oz (50 g) sugar
⅓ oz (10 g) cornstarch
10½ oz (300 g) cream
CRAQUELIN
1¾ oz (50 g) soft butter
1¾ oz (50 g) sugar
1¾ oz (50 g) flour
SUNFLOWER SEEDS
3½ oz (100 g) sunflower seeds
1¾ oz (50 g) sugar
⅓ oz (10 g) salted butter
SALTED CARAMEL
4⅜ oz (125 g) sugar
4⅜ oz (125 g) butter
6 oz (175 g) cream
CHOUX PASTRY BALLS
1 cup/8¾ fl oz (250 ml) water
3½ oz (100 g) butter
5⅓ oz (150 g) flour
4 eggs
1
MEADOWSWEET CREAM
Soak the gelatin in cold water. Bring the milk to a boil, add the meadowsweet, infuse for 5 minutes, then strain. Beat the egg yolks and sugar until creamy, then stir in the cornstarch. Pour the flavored milk into the egg yolk mixture, stir, and return to the pot. Heat gently, stirring constantly, until the cream thickens. Remove from the heat. Squeeze out the gelatin and stir it in, ensuring it dissolves completely. Cover the cream with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto the surface, and allow to cool completely. Whip the cream until soft peaks form and fold it into the smooth crème pâtissière.
2 CRAQUELIN
Knead butter, sugar, and flour into a smooth dough. Roll out between two sheets of baking paper to a thickness of 0.8–1.2 in (2–3 mm) and chill thoroughly. Cut out 4–5 cm rounds and chill again.
3
SUNFLOWER SEEDS
Lightly roast the sunflower seeds in the oven. Heat the sugar with 4 tsp/20 ml water to a light caramel syrup. Add the seeds and keep heating until the sugar first crystallizes, then melts again and turns golden. Stir in the butter. Spread the mixture onto baking paper and cool. Break into rough pieces.
4
SALTED CARAMEL
Caramelize the sugar in a pot without water until deep amber. Add the butter and mix thoroughly. Add the cream and stir into a smooth, glossy sauce. Cool.
5
CHOUX PASTRY
Bring the water and butter to a boil. Add the flour all at once and stir over low heat until a smooth ball forms and a thin film appears on the bottom of the pot. Cool slightly, then work in the eggs one at a time into a smooth dough. Fill a piping bag and pipe balls about 1.6–2.0 in (4–5 cm) in diameter onto a baking sheet. Top each ball with a circle of craquelin. Bake at 355°F/180°C for about 25 minutes until golden brown. Cool completely.
6 TO FINISH
Carefully cut open the choux pastry balls. Fill with meadowsweet cream, drizzle in a little salted caramel, and top with caramelized sunflower seeds. Decorate with extra craquelin shards if desired.
SOUFFLÉ AU HOMARD AVEC MOUSSE
AU VIN JAUNE ET JEUNE OSEILLE
LOBSTER SOUFFLÉ WITH VIN JAUNE FOAM AND YOUNG SORREL
SERVES 4
DIFFICULTY
LOBSTER
Scant ½ cup/3½ fl oz (100 ml) white wine
1 carrot
1 shallot
1 small section of leek
Salt
1 sprig tarragon or thyme
2 lobsters (approx. 1 lb 5 oz–1 lb 12 oz / 600–800 g each)
LOBSTER SOUFFLÉ
7 oz (200 g) cooked lobster meat (from claws and tails)
3½ oz (100 g) chicken breast (skinless)
¼ oz (7 g) salt
0.04 oz (1 g) pepper
0.04 oz (1 g) piment d’Espelette
1 pinch nutmeg
1 egg white
5⅓ oz (150 g) cold cream
VIN JAUNE FOAM
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp tomato paste
Scant cup/6¾ fl oz (200 ml) fish or shellfish stock (store-bought or made from lobster shells, see below)
3 tbsp/1¾ fl oz (50 ml) Vin Jaune (or: 3 tbsp/1⅓ fl oz dry white wine + 3 tsp/⅓ fl oz sherry)
2¾ oz (80 g) cream
Dash of sherry vinegar (or: a dash of red wine vinegar + ½ tsp honey)
Salt, pepper
WOOD SORREL
1 tsp butter
1½ oz (40 g) young sorrel Salt, pepper
TO SERVE
4 lobster tail medallions
Few oxalis or young spinach leaves
1 PREPARING THE LOBSTER
Bring a large pot with 9–13 cups/68–101 fl oz (2–3 l) water, white wine, carrot, shallot, leek, salt, and herbs to a boil. Add the lobster and steep for 8 minutes. Remove, cool completely, and carefully strip off the meat.
2
LOBSTER SOUFFLÉ
Roughly dice the lobster meat and chicken breast, then blend with salt, pepper, piment d’Espelette, and nutmeg until smooth. Add the egg white and blend until the mixture just starts to bind. Now slowly pour in the very cold cream to form a smooth, airy paste. Chill briefly. Butter the molds, fill with the farce, and smooth down to ¾ full. Cook in a water bath or steamer at 195–205°F/90–95°C for about 20–25 minutes, until the soufflé is set but still juicy. Rest briefly, then turn out.
3 VIN JAUNE FOAM
Melt butter in a small pot. Briefly sauté the tomato paste. Pour in fish/shellfish stock and vin jaune (or white wine + sherry). Reduce by half. Stir in the cream and bring to a quick boil. Season with a splash of sherry vinegar, salt, and pepper. Froth with a hand blender until foamy.
4 SORREL
Melt butter in a pan. Wilt the sorrel for 10 seconds—it should stay fresh and bright. Season lightly.
5
LOBSTER MEDALLIONS
Cut the lobster tails into neat medallions and warm briefly in a little butter—do not fry.
6 TO SERVE
Place a little sorrel in the middle of each plate. Top with the lobster soufflé and cover generously with vin jaune foam. Place a lobster medallion on the top. Garnish with oxalis or small herb leaves.
Y’A SKIFF PLACE DE L'ÉGLISE, BOURG DE LAMPAUL, 29242 OUESSANT yaskiff.bzh
OPENING HOURS:
Thursday to Monday 11:00 am–2:00 pm and 6:00–9:30 pm
In July and August, also open Tuesday 11:00 am–2:00 pm and 6:00–9:30 pm
Y’A SKIFF
OFF TO THE ISLAND
MMoving to an island that is two hours by ferry from the mainland, that has barely 800 residents (in summer) and is sometimes blanketed in fog for days in winter is hardly a decision to be taken lightly. Olivier and Séverine Nedellec needed less than 48 hours.
INFO
Olivier was introduced to the world of wild herbs by Gwenaëlle Héré-Mazé, an island herbalist who also offers cooking workshops as well as guided hikes. Dates: www.melusmoudez.com
Admittedly, the couple had long been familiar with Île d’Ouessant for a long time, having visited it for three decades. But vacationing is one thing, and living there permanently quite another. “That’s true,” says Olivier. “But we’ve never regretted it.” The couple have no fear of new beginnings. Both spent years working in the finance sector before taking the plunge in 2015 and opening their own restaurant in SaintBrieuc in northern Brittany. They picked up the name from shipyard workers in Brest: Y’a Skiff is Breton slang for “Everything you need is here.”
After seven years of success, they were chilling on Île d’Ouessant when they chanced to discover that the restaurant on the church square was for sale. A coup de cœur, says Olivier: love at first sight. They have stayed true to their approach of cooking local and sea-
sonal. The vegetables come from Vincent, the island farmer who commutes between Île d’Ouessant and the neighboring island of Molène, while Ondine supplies the fish, and the dairy and cheese products are sourced from the Richauds, likewise newcomers, who moved to the island from southern France in 2020 with their children and cattle. Unlike many other island restaurants that stay close to Breton classics, Olivier and Séverine put their own interpretation on local flavors. Olivier recently began exploring the island’s wild herbs and discovered sea fennel, wild carrot, and honeysuckle blossoms. Amid this isolation, plants grow especially strong and bring a unique flavor to the dishes. The drinks menu is also strongly regional; while natural wines come from the mainland, the beer and spirits are brewed and distilled directly on the island. In classic Île d’Ouessant style, the restaurant’s garden is enclosed by a stone wall, so that guests can enjoy aperitifs and snacks outside even in windy island weather.
Far left – A few tables, good wine, and island products—Y’a Skiff has “everything you need.”
Left – On fine days, the wind-protected terrace is inviting.
Below – From mainland to vacation island: Olivier and Séverine are not afraid of new beginnings.
POTIMARRON, BOUDIN NOIR, GRAINES DE TOURNESOL ET SAUCE AU BEURRE NOISETTE
RED KURI SQUASH WITH BLOOD SAUSAGE, SUNFLOWER SEEDS, AND BROWN BUTTER
SERVES 4
DIFFICULTY
PUMPKIN
½ red kuri squash
4 tsp/0.7 fl oz (20 ml) sunflower oil
Salt and pepper
BLOOD SAUSAGE
3 pieces of blood sausage
4 tsp/0.7 fl oz (20 ml) sunflower oil
BROWN BUTTER
1 egg
0.7 oz (20 g) capers
Salt
7 oz (200 g) butter
Scant ½ cup/3.4 fl oz (100 ml) sunflower oil
SUNFLOWER SEED DRESSING
1.8 oz (50 g) capers
1.8 oz (50 g) cornichons
7 oz (200 g) roasted sunflower seeds
1.8 oz (50 g) flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Scant ½ cup/3.4 fl oz (100 ml) olive oil
DECORATION
Baby spinach leaves
1 PUMPKIN
Preheat the oven to 355°F/180°C. Rinse the red kuri squash thoroughly and cut into quarters. Heat a little sunflower oil in a pan and sear the cut sides of the squash on both sides until golden brown. Place the pieces on a baking sheet and roast for about 20 minutes, until the squash is soft. Season with salt and pepper.
2 BLOOD SAUSAGE
Slice the blood sausage and fry on both sides in a pan with a little sunflower oil until crispy. Cool, then carefully cut off the skin using scissors.
3 BROWN BUTTER
Bring 2 cups/17 fl oz (500 ml) water to a boil in a small pot. Soft-boil the egg for 6 minutes, then peel carefully. Place the egg, a scant cup/6.8 fl oz (200 ml) water, the capers, and a pinch of salt into a tall mixing container and blend with a hand blender until smooth. Melt the butter in a small pot over medium heat and keep heating it slowly. As soon as the butter foams, the milk solids will start to brown.
Continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until the butter turns golden brown and smells nutty. Immediately remove the brown butter from the heat, strain through a fine sieve, and keep warm. Begin blending the sunflower oil continuously, then slowly add the warm brown butter to give a light, foamy sauce.
4
SUNFLOWER SEED DRESSING
Finely chop the capers and cornichons. Collect a scant ¼ cup/1.7 fl oz (50 ml) of the pickle and caper brine. Mix the roasted sunflower seeds, chopped parsley, pickle and caper brine, and olive oil in a bowl. Chill until ready to serve.
5 TO SERVE
Arrange the squash pieces on the plates and distribute the fried blood sausage on top. Drizzle over some sunflower seed dressing and cover generously with the foamed brown butter. Finish with young spinach leaves.
ON THE LIGHTHOUSE ROAD
Nowhere else in the world has more lighthouses per area than Brittany. They are especially numerous in the northwest, where coasts are rugged and seas are wild. The most impressive example sits in the open sea off Ushant (Ouessant). According to a Breton saying, this location is hell compared to lighthouses on islands (purgatory) and on the mainland (paradise). The most beautiful lighthouse interior is the Phare d’Eckmühl, while the tower at Pointe Saint-Mathieu is stunning from the outside. The record-holder is on Île Vierge; at 82.5 meters (270.7 feet), it is the tallest lighthouse in Europe. Afterwards, it is worth stopping by the nearby Crêperie La Route des Phares in Lilia—not only for the name, but especially for the wonderful crêpes and galettes.
HINOKI BREST
Japanese sushi tradition meets Breton products. Chef Xavier Pensec trained as a sushi master in Japan. Back home in Brest, he has been combining the best of both worlds ever since. The menu is like a small-scale theater performance. Diners eat at a dozen seats at the counter. This provides a ringside view of the master slicing the fish and shaping the rice—and he, in turn, can keep an eye on his guests and tailor each bite to their pace and taste. 6 Rue des 11 Martyrs, 29200 Brest, hinoki-sushi.com
FINISTERE
With their playful shapes and bright colors, Zazie Brosse’s ceramics are pure joy. The young artist makes and sells her pieces in a small studio in the charming old town of Pont-l’Abbé. To see her plates, vases, and other pieces “in action” first, drop into Café Pause Iodée on the nearby coast. See something you like? You can snap it up on the spot.2 bis Rue Burdeau, 29120 Pont-l'Abbé
ATELIER EIZAZ
LA COMPAGNIE BRETONNE
These colorful canned fish are among Brittany’s most famous specialties (and most popular souvenirs). After the tin can was invented at the start of the 19th century, the first factories popped up in the region, and the canning industry quickly became one of the most important economic sectors. Although the number of producers has plummeted since those times, demand is still high. While the main product remains sardines (sold as millésimées, like vintage wines), the product range also includes canned mackerel, tuna, and mussels, plus ready-to-eat fish soups and sauces. The family-run Compagnie Bretonne has stores in numerous towns. The best location is the flagship store in Penmarc’h, where the factory is: from a gallery, shoppers can watch the production process.105, Hent Yvon Buannic, 29760 Penmarc’h, lacompagniebretonne.fr
DELICACIES FROM SEA FARMERS
There are now numerous small-scale producers transforming maritime superfoods into gourmet treats, especially along the algae-rich north coast. The chef at La Table Breizh Café (Japanese, and thus an expert) swears by Algo’manne. The algae are carefully harvested in the “gardens” of Aber Benoît. The products made from them— dried and pickled seaweed, seaweed tartare, Breton kimchi with dulse—can be found at various weekly markets (such as Tuesdays in Le Conquet and Sundays in Brest).Other fine products are made by former Algo’manne employee Lenny Gouédic, who went solo after spending three instructive years with the company. He collects the algae for his organic brand Begood Alg in the Bay of Audierne. His creations are stocked by many supermarkets and gourmet shops.algomanne.com, begoodalg.com
MONSIEUR PAPIER
So much beauty in one place! The store sells enchanting stationery with illustrations by Lisa Blain (not forgetting lovely books, games, and household goods). Head out of the store toward the garden to enjojy a view of the open sea. And take a seat at one of the wooden tables scattered around, because Monsieur Papier is a café as well as a bookstore and stationery outlet. There are few better places for afternoon coffee or an evening aperitif. Tip: Afterwards, leave your car and take a delightful half-hour walk along the coastal path to Pointe du Raz. In fine weather, you can watch the sun setting into the sea.59 Rue des Langoustiers, 29770 Plogoff
It’s all in the name: This charming four-star hotel is located directly by the sea. At low tide, the water retreats a few hundred meters, but at high tide, the waves almost lap as far as the sunloungers on the terrace. The hotel interiors, fully renovated in 2024, likewise have a maritime feel. Fresh seafood is served at the restaurant, with its stunning views. For a post-prandial stroll, head to the nearby Phare de Pontusval. Promenade des Chardons Bleus, 29890 Plounéour-Brignogan-Plages, hoteldelamer.bzh
THON ROUGE, GASPACHO PASTÈQUE-TIMUT ET GINGEMBRE
RED TUNA AND WATERMELON GAZPACHO WITH TIMUT PEPPER
SERVES 4
DIFFICULTY
WATERMELON GAZPACHO
1 small watermelon (yields approx. 2.2 lb / 1 kg flesh)
1 organic lemon
3.5 oz (100 g) ginger
2.6 oz (75 g) dried hibiscus
0.35 oz (10 g) Timut pepper
Sugar
Coarse salt
TOMATO-RED CABBAGE JAM
10.6 oz (300 g) red cabbage
Olive oil
Splash of lemon juice
3.4 fl oz (100 ml) sherry vinegar
1.1 lb (500 g) heirloom tomatoes
Scant ½ cup/3.4 fl oz (100 ml) raspberry vinegar
10 tsp/1.7 fl oz (50 ml) balsamic vinegar
Salt
MARINATED TUNA
10.6 oz (300 g) tuna fillet (loin or saku)
Salt
TO SERVE
Cherry tomatoes, halved Herbs
1
WATERMELON GAZPACHO
Peel the watermelon and cube about 1 kg (2.2 lb) of the flesh. Set aside. Zest the lemon, segment it and chop the segments. Peel and chop the ginger. Place the lemon zest, lemon segments, ginger, hibiscus, and Timut pepper into a large pot and cover with about twice the depth of water. Simmer gently over low heat for 1 hour until the liquid has reduced by about half. Cool, add the watermelon, and blend very finely in a blender into a smooth, velvety gazpacho. Season to taste with sugar and salt.
2
TOMATO AND RED CABBAGE JAM
Slice the red cabbage very finely and mix with salt, olive oil, lemon juice, and a splash of sherry vinegar. Marinate, ideally overnight. Cut up the tomatoes and sauté in a little olive oil until they break down completely into a dry, jam-like consistency. Deglaze with the remaining sherry vinegar. Add the marinated red cabbage along with its juices. Season with raspberry and balsamic vinegar and lemon juice.
3
MARINATED TUNA
Salt the tuna and sear briefly on all sides in a hot pan or under the grill. Chill immediately to stop the fish from cooking further. Once completely cooled, slice thinly.
4 TO SERVE
Place a small scoop of the tomato and red cabbage jam in a deep plate. Add a few halved cherry tomatoes. Lay the tuna slices on top. Decorate with herbs, flowers, and sea greens. Pour the well-chilled watermelon gazpacho around the fish.
BIBLIOGRAPHIC INFORMATION FROM THE GERMAN NATIONAL LIBRARY
The German National Library lists this publication in the German National Bibliography; detailed bibliographic data can be found online at dnb.d-nb.de.
This work, including all its parts, is protected by copyright. Any use outside the strict limits of copyright law is not allowed and punishable without the publisher’s consent. This especially applies to reproductions, translations, microfilming, and storing or processing in electronic systems.
THIS BOOK WAS MADE IN CALLWEY QUALITY JUST FOR YOU: Printed and bound in Germany by optimal Media, Röbel/Müritz
WE HOPE YOU HAVE LOTS OF FUN WITH THIS BOOK:
Author: Verena Mayer
Project management & editing: Anna Seidel
Photographer: Andrea Di Lorenzo
Final proofreading: Asta Machat
Translation: Callwey Editorial Team
Translation Editing: Alison Moffat-McLynn
Design & typesetting: Sina Preuße
Production: Oliver Meier
THE AUTHOR:
Verena Carola Mayer is a freelance journalist focusing on travel and food. She’s especially in love with France, and most of all, Brittany. She writes for well-known media includingFAS, taz, Effilee, andFalstaff, presenting places where good food and culture come together.
THE PHOTOGRAPHER:
Andrea Di Lorenzo captures the unique atmosphere of Brittany with his camera and brings the region to vibrant life. He is regarded as one of Italy’s finest photographers, already amply demonstrated in A Taste of Rome
