Weekends with Yankee Insiders' Guide 2021 by Yankee Magazine

I N S I D E R S ’

Companion Digital Magazine to the Public Television Series from Yankee

G U I D E

I N S I D E R S ’

G U I D E

Weekends with Yankee is produced by GBH Boston’s Studio Six. EXECUTIVE PRODUCER

Laurie Donnelly SERIES HOSTS

Richard Wiese and Amy Traverso Series funding for Weekends with Yankee is provided by State of New Hampshire Division of Travel & Tourism, Maine Office of Tourism, and The Vermont Country Store.

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE VP, PUBLISHER

Brook Holmberg MARKETING DIRECTOR

Kate Hathaway Weeks SALES MARKETING MANAGER

Valerie Lithgow EDITOR

Mel Allen ART DIRECTOR

Katty Van Itallie MANAGING EDITOR

Jenn Johnson SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR

Ian Aldrich SENIOR FOOD EDITOR

Amy Traverso SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR

Aimee Tucker ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR

Katherine Keenan PRODUCTION ARTIST

Jennifer Freeman MARKETING ASSOCIATE

Holly Sloane NEW MEDIA DESIGNER

Amy O’Brien VP, SALES

JD Hale NATIONAL MARKETING

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

WELCOME TO WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE The publication you’re reading right now is a special one for all of us at Yankee. In a year that has proven challenging on so many levels, the connection that people have to New England has felt stronger than ever. Over the past several months, we’ve heard a lot from our audiences, who tell us that what this region represents—and how we represent it—feels reassuring. And for many, this feeling is especially true for Weekends with Yankee, our travel and lifestyle public television series made in partnership with GBH in Boston. For the past four seasons, Weekends with Yankee has taken viewers on a variety of adventures around New England: exploring favorite attractions and hidden gems; spending time with artisans, chefs, and other regional personalities; visiting the best food destinations and cooking up New England–inspired recipes. It all gives our viewers a real sense of connection—and it’s something that grows only stronger in season five, which debuted this spring. In our new season, co-host Richard Wiese continues to serve as the ultimate tour guide to the destinations and diversions that make New England so special, from walking with llamas in the Connecticut woods, to visiting giant ice castles in New Hampshire, to diving into Vermont’s quirky, home-grown winter sport, jack jumping. Meanwhile, co-host and Yankee senior food editor Amy Traverso sets out on her own journey to find New England’s distinctive flavors and culture. Among the highlights of Amy’s travels this season: following in Julia Child’s footsteps and talking with friends and colleagues of the beloved culinary icon; visiting Woodman’s, birthplace of the fried clam, in Essex, Massachusetts; and making pasta with acclaimed Boston chef Douglass Williams. The reach of our new season is further expanded by this publication. Just as stories from Yankee have inspired many of the segments on Weekends with Yankee, the show has influenced what we at Yankee do, both online and in print. With the latest edition of Weekends with Yankee: Insiders’ Guide, we’ve once again brought together stories connected to the show and to New England itself. So, at a time when many of us are just beginning to find our travel legs again, we hope you will come along on a journey into the heart of New England, led by the folks who know it best. As you do, let us know what you like about the show— and which adventures you’d like to see us take on next. —The Editors

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

CONTENTS 4

BEHIND THE SCENES

MEET THE CO-HOSTS: AMY TRAVERSO

MEET THE CO-HOSTS: RICHARD WIESE

OH, THE PLACES WE’VE BEEN!

Yankee’s classic tribute to the queen of cooking

INTO THE WILD

ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Q&A: LOUISA CONRAD

WEEKEND ON CAPE ANN

PORTLAND CALLING

L AKE WINNIPESAUKEE PHOTO: MARK FLEMING

PEAK PERFECTION

WINTER WONDERLAND

THE ZEN OF PASTA

Q&A: LYDIA SHIRE Catching up with a restaurant-industry trailblazer

CRAFT SHOW Modern-day heirlooms from around New England

Boston chef Douglass Williams shares a timeless culinary tradition

THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES There’s more to discover on WeekendsWithYankee.com

Snowy fun beckons at a classic New Hampshire resort

IN THE KITCHEN WITH AMY Yankee’s senior food editor shares new recipes from season five

A guide to vibrant autumn color in every New England state

Q&A: MICHAEL TERRIEN Bluet’s co-founder on the future of wild Maine blueberry wine

What to see and do when visiting Maine’s seaside metropolis

BLUEBERRY HEAVEN Celebrating harvest time in Down East’s blueberry barrens

This seaside destination is a treasure hiding in plain sight

Q&A: ANA SORTUN & CHRIS KURTH Meeting up with two local-food heroes in Massachusetts

A candy maker lives the sweet life at Vermont’s Big Picture Farm

LOCAL FLAVOR Yankee editors’ favorite foods, delivered to your door

Where to get up close with some fascinating creatures in New England

CRUNCH TIME A look at New England’s long-running love affair with apples

Iconic outfitter L.L. Bean leads the way on a Maine adventure

Q&A: TJ DOUGLAS Uncorking the wisdom of a game-changing wine expert

Five seasons, more than 120 locations—and we’re just getting started

REMEMBERING JULIA

ONE LAST THING Vermont’s weird and wonderful sport of jack jumping

TUNE IN TO SEASON 5 Your complete guide to Weekends with Yankee’s brand-new season WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

PHOTO: MEGAN HALEY

As the camera rolls on Weekends with Yankee, co-host Amy Traverso tours the Chatham Bars Inn’s farm on Cape Cod, Massachusetts.

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

BEHIND THE SCENES

A conversation with Weekends with Yankee executive producer Laurie Donnelly editors know New England in a way that very few people do, and they know what audiences respond to. What things have you learned about this region as a result of producing Weekends with Yankee? So many things! One is people’s commitment to New England. They are passionate about it. So even if they move away, there’s something that draws them back again. Second, there’s so much variety with both the landscape and the seasons. It’s not just beaches, it’s not just mountains, it’s not just leaf-peeping. New England is a serious culinary destination, too. I love the diversity of the food here. There’s such richness in the variety of cuisines. And the chefs are so committed to the idea of farm-to-table. While that movement gained national popularity and visibility a decade ago, we’ve been living it here for much longer. And I think the other thing is that there’s adventure to be had here. It was really through co-host Richard Wiese’s eyes that we saw that. It’s not just about kayaking and skiing. There are really unusual adventures and remote areas to explore.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF GBH

ver her long career in public television, Emmywinning producer Laurie Donnelly has worked on a number of innovative shows, from This Old House to Lidia Celebrates America to Simply Ming. Today this California native turned New Englander oversees Weekends with Yankee, a GBH collaboration with Yankee magazine, which launched its fifth season on public television stations nationwide in spring 2021. Here, she shares some insights on Weekends with Yankee, New England, and this latest season. How did the partnership between GBH and Yankee come about? When the Yankee team approached us with the idea of bringing the magazine to a television platform, we instantly said, “Yes, let’s do this!” Yankee is a New England institution that has been telling this region’s story for decades, so working with the editors gives us access to places and people that we otherwise might not have. We call the show an “insiders’ guide,” because the

In the new season’s first episode, we retrace Julia Child’s footsteps in Boston and Cambridge, where you actually got to know her. What was she like? She was much taller than I expected, and I was worried that I’d be intimidated by her, but I wasn’t. She really made you feel welcome. She always believed in being a mentor for women. She was also inspirational, in that she began her career later in life and didn’t let anything get in her way. She was passionate, she stood up for what she believed, and she never stopped learning. What are you most excited about in this season? I loved the Julia Child segment. I loved visiting chef Michel Nischan and hearing about his commitment to making healthy food available to underserved communities. Richard’s segment at a llama farm was this surprising little adventure in an unexpected place. And I really got turned onto jack jumping, a sport I’d never heard of in my life. Finally, I loved meeting Boston chef Douglass Williams. It’s great to focus not just on people who are in the spotlight all the time, but on people who are passionate about what they do. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

MEET THE CO-HOSTS: AMY TRAVERSO Yankee’s senior food editor has a knack for showcasing New England’s innovative chefs and iconic foods

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

PORTRAITS: MARK FLEMING

s Weekends with Yankee’s resident food expert, Amy Traverso introduces viewers to New England flavors and recipes, as well as the farmers, chefs, and food producers who enliven the region’s food and dining scene. Amy is the senior food editor for Yankee, and she brings the magazine’s insider knowledge to life and shares it with viewers nationwide. Previously, Amy was food editor at Boston magazine and associate food editor at Sunset. Her work has also been published in Saveur, The Boston Globe, and Travel & Leisure, and she has appeared on Hallmark Channel’s Home & Family, The Martha Stewart Show, Throwdown with Bobby Flay, and Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares. Amy is the author of The Apple Lover’s Cookbook, which was a finalist for the Julia Child Award for best first-time author and which won an IACP Cookbook Award in the “American” category. She was also the editor of Yankee’s Lost and Vintage Recipes. Amy lives in the Boston area and is a graduate of Smith College.

MEET THE CO-HOSTS: RICHARD WIESE Though he’s spent years traveling the world, he still loves finding adventure right here in New England

s a world-class explorer, Richard Wiese brings a seasoned traveler’s curiosity and appetite for discovery to his role as Weekends with Yankee co-host and expert guide through New England. Richard is also host of the Emmy-winning television series Born to Explore and author of the guidebook Born to Explore: How to Be a Backyard Adventurer. The youngest person ever to be named president of the Explorers Club, Richard has traveled to all seven continents and participated in numerous projects, including two expeditions to Antarctica, a cross-country skiing trek to the North Pole, and the largest medical expedition ever conducted on Mount Everest. Richard lives in Weston, Connecticut, and is a graduate of Brown University. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

OH, THE PLACES WE’VE Over five seasons, Weekends with Yankee has traveled to more than 120 filming locations—and we’re just getting started (Segments highlighted in yellow are featured on our newest season.)

CONNECTICUT EASTON fly fishing with artist and writer James Prosek . . . HAMDEN visiting a hydroponic farm and cooking with chef Michel Nischan . . . KENT Yankee’s favorite foliage town . . . LITCHFIELD Arethusa Farm’s pampered cows and award-winning cheese . . . MADISON at home with legendary chef Jacques Pépin . . . MYSTIC behind the scenes at Mystic Aquarium, plus restoring the Mayflower II . . . NEW CANAAN Philip Johnson’s iconic Glass House, plus birds of prey at Grace Farms . . . NEW HAVEN foraging with chef Bun Lai, plus the music of Yale’s Whiffenpoofs . . . NORWICH visit to a minor-league ballpark . . . ORANGE PEZ factory tour . . . SHELTON celebrating the Wiffle Ball . . . WEST CORNWALL walking with llamas . . . WESTBROOK baking with cookbook queen Dorie Greenspan . . . WESTON up-close look at beekeeping at Red Bee Honey . . . WOODSTOCK carving wooden spoons at Meb’s Kitchenwares

MAINE ACADIA NATIONAL PARK with photographer Jerry Monkman . . . BAR HARBOR authentic beach clambake at “The Ovens” . . . BIDDEFORD gourmet lunch-counter fare at Palace Diner . . . CAPE ELIZABETH The Well at Jordan’s Fam . . . CAPE NEDDICK Maine bean-hole supper with chef Justin Walker . . . CHEBEAGUE ISLAND visiting the island’s landmark inn, plus Chebeague Island Oysters . . . EASTERN EGG ROCK trip to see the puffins . . . EASTPORT up-close look at the Old Sow whirlpool . . . FREEDOM behind the scenes at The Lost Kitchen . . . GRAY moose, bears, and more at Maine Wildlife Park . . . GREENVILLE soaring over Moosehead Lake in a float plane . . . HOPE blueberry farm visit with the Bluet winemakers . . . KENNEBUNKPORT glamping at Sandy Pines Campground . . . LUBEC West Quoddy Head Lighthouse . . . MILLBRIDGE TO LUBEC Bold Coast Scenic Byway . . . NORTH HAVEN cooking at Nebo Lodge 8

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

BEEN! . . . NORTHPORT how Swans Island blankets are made . . . OGUNQUIT ode to the beach town . . . POLAND digging for the state gem, tourmaline . . . PORTLAND ultimate foodie tour—plus, Bangs Island Mussels, Two Fat Cats bakery, chef-author Barton Seaver, Cross Jewelers, Luke’s Lobsters, and the B&M factory . . . ROCKLAND windjammer voyage on the J&E Riggin . . . ROCKPORT photographer/working fisherman Joel Woods . . . ROQUE BLUFFS wild blueberry harvest at Welch Farm . . . SACO factory tour of Luke’s Lobsters . . . SCARBOROUGH Bluet’s wild blueberry sparkling wine . . . SOUTH THOMASTON ultimate lobster roll at McLoons . . . WEST FORKS whitewater rafting on the Kennebec . . . YORK small-batch spirits at Wiggly Bridge Distillery

PHOTOS: MARK FLEMING (BARN); COURTESY OF THE O M N I M O U N T WA SH I N G TO N R E S O R T ( M O U N TA I N )

MASSACHUSETTS BOSTON Cooking with chef Douglass Williams, plus the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Fenway Park, baker Joanne Chang, and chef Barbara Lynch . . . BOYLSTON late-fall beauty at Tower Hill Botanic Gardens . . . BROOKLINE catching up with author/actor/ humorist John Hodgman . . . CAMBRIDGE following in Julia Child’s footsteps with chef Lydia Shire, plus the Head of the Charles regatta . . . CHATHAM chasing great white sharks, plus farm-to-table dining at Chatham Bars Inn . . . CHILMARK mushroom cultivation on the Vineyard . . . EDGARTOWN starchitect Patrick Ahearn . . . ESSEX shipbuilding traditions and the birthplace of the fried clam . . . LENOX picnic at Tanglewood . . . LEXINGTON New England artisans’ dinner at the Inn at

Hastings Park . . . LYNN fresh-milled flour at One Mighty Mill . . . MARTHA’S VINEYARD African-American Heritage Trail, plus cooking with bay scallops . . . NANTUCKET preppy mecca Murray’s Toggery Shop, plus author Elin Hilderbrand and the tall ship Lynx . . . OAK BLUFFS Grand Illumination Night, plus the Inkwell Polar Bears . . . PROVINCETOWN off-road delights with Art’s Dune Tours, plus treasure hunter Barry Clifford and a downtown tour . . . SALEM Punto Art Museum’s mural enclave, plus the House of the Seven Gables . . . SOUTH CARVER up-close look at the cranberry harvest . . . SOUTH HAMILTON Myopia Polo Club . . . STOCKBRIDGE Norman Rockwell Museum . . . SUDBURY Siena Farms visit with chef Ana Sortun and farmer Chris Kurth . . . WEST YARMOUTH Whydah, the world’s only authenticated pirate ship . . . WESTPORT vineyard idyll at Westport River Winery . . . WILLIAMSTOWN front-row seat to the Williamstown Theatre Festival

NEW HAMPSHIRE AMHERST classic general store Moulton’s Market . . . BARTLETT ice climbing on Cathedral Ledge . . . BRETTON WOODS winter fun at the Omni Mount Washington Resort . . . BROOKLINE Andres Institute of Art sculpture park . . . CHARLESTOWN sunset hang-gliding at Morningside Flight Park . . . CORNISH Saint-Gaudens National Historical Park . . . FREEDOM wilderness camping tips from a pro . . . GOAT ISLAND crabbing for an invasive (but delicious) species . . . HANOVER college-town tour, plus Dartmouth’s Orozco murals . . . HARRISVILLE farm dinner at Mayfair Farm, plus custom motorcycles and the Harrisville General Store . . . JACKSON horse-drawn sleigh rides at Nestlenook Farm, plus Thompson House Eatery and cross-country skiing . . . LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE Sophie C., the nation’s oldest floating post office . . . LEBANON apple alchemy at Poverty Lane Orchards/ Farnum Hill Cider . . . LEE Coppal House Farm’s draft horses at work, plus a visit to Tuckaway Farm . . . LINCOLN hiking with hut croos to Zealand Falls Hut . . . LINCOLN TO CONWAY stunning foliage along the Kancamagus Highway . . . LISBON off-road fun in ATVs . . . LYME foliage expert Jim Salge at Holt’s Ledge . . . MOULTONBOROUGH royal vistas at Castle in the Clouds, plus foraging with chef Brendan Pelley . . . MOUNT MONADNOCK New England’s own Mount Fuji . . . MOUNT WASHINGTON home of the world’s worst weather, plus the first mountainclimbing cog railway . . . NEWFIELDS tasty tradition at Newfields General Store . . . PETERBOROUGH behind the scenes at MacDowell artist colony

. . . PORTSMOUTH mushroom hunting with chef Evan Mallett, plus Strawbery Banke, The Music Hall, Great Bay oysters, cooking with chefs Brendan Vesey and David Vargas . . . RUMNEY rock climbing on Rattlesnake Mountain . . . SQUAM LAKE trip to see the loons . . . STAR ISLAND ferry excursion to the Isles of Shoals . . . TAMWORTH sampling artisanal spirits at Tamworth Distilling . . . WALPOLE Finnish tradition with artist Eric Aho . . . WOODSTOCK frozen grandeur at Ice Castles

RHODE ISLAND BLOCK ISLAND treasure hunting for handblown glass floats . . . NARRAGANSETT lessons in New England– style surfing . . . NEWPORT tour of historic Rose Island Lighthouse, plus boatbuilding lore, The Elms, and sailing on America’s Cup yachts . . . PROVIDENCE guide to Rhode Island delicacies, plus Olneyville New York System hot dogs and the spectacle of WaterFire . . . SOUTH KINGSTOWN cultivating and cooking bivalves at Matunuck Oyster . . . TIVERTON hidden beauty of the Farm Coast . . . WAKEFIELD Eben Horton’s glassblowing studio . . . WESTERLY luxury escapes to Ocean House and the Weekapaug Inn

VERMONT BARNARD organic winemaking at La Garagista, plus luxury resort and spa Twin Farms . . . DUMMERSTON preserving heirloom apples at Scott Orchard . . . EAST BURKE mountain biking on Kingdom Trails . . . ESSEX JUNCTION Little Fenway’s field of dreams . . . FAIRLEE hitting the nation’s longest ice-skating trail at Lake Morey . . . GRAFTON behind the scenes at Grafton Village Cheese . . . GREENSBORO foodie pilgrimage to Hill Farmstead Brewery and Jasper Hill Farm . . . HARTFORD star baker Gesine Bullock-Prado . . . KILLINGTON World Cup skiing action at Killington Resort . . . QUECHEE famed glass artisan Simon Pearce, plus Quechee Gorge and a hot-air balloon adventure . . . RANDOLPH Vermont Creamery co-founder Allison Hooper’s goat dairy . . . READING classic fall photo-op at Jenne Farm . . . SHELBURNE art and Americana at Shelburne Museum, plus cheesemaking at Shelburne Farms . . . STOWE The Sound of Music legacy at the Trapp Family Lodge . . . TOWNSHEND gourmet goat’s-milk caramels at Big Picture Farm . . . WEST DOVER Jack Jumping World Championships at Mount Snow . . . WOLCOTT Elmore Mountain Bread’s local-grains renaissance . . . WOODSTOCK cooking at the historic Woodstock Inn, plus F.H. Gillingham & Sons and Charles Shackleton’s Naked Table Project WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

Among the payoffs for participants in L.L. Bean’s Outdoor Discovery Programs trip to Baxter State Park: grand summit views from South Branch and Black Cat mountains.

10 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

INTO THE

Wild Discovering the beauty of Baxter State Park with Maine’s most iconic adventure outfitter, L.L. Bean S TORY A ND PHOTOS BY I A N A LDRICH

t was a cool morning in early September, just after daybreak. I stood at the river’s edge, rubbing and clapping my hands as I tried to overcome my hesitation. And boy, did I need to. For the past three days I’d been camping and hiking with seven others in Baxter State Park, amid one of the biggest uninterrupted stretches of wilderness in the Northeast. All that outdoor living necessitated a refresher, which is why on our final day I awoke at dawn and marched to the river, ready to make the plunge ... until I wasn’t. Because the water looked colder than advertised, I instead took a seat on the rocks and remained there in an almost meditative state. In my defense, the setting had something to do with it: A morning mist was rising off the glassy waters, birds were chattering somewhere behind me, and in the near distance the early touches of fall color had descended on the landscape. As it had at other times over the past few days, the world felt not just still, but also remarkably sane. I know I wasn’t the only one who’d reached that conclusion. Over the course of the long weekend, our group had toured a slice of Baxter on a guided trip with L.L. Bean’s Outdoor Discovery Programs. Along the way, we received a primer on park history via a Baxter historian, gained some valuable campsite know-how, and feasted on food our two trip leaders made from scratch. (Our first dinner: marinated salmon with potatoes, salad, green beans, and hot gingerbread topped with whipped cream.) We were a small but varied bunch. There were two longtime friends on an annual girls’ weekend, a middle-aged couple looking to reacquaint themselves with camping. And then there was me and my buddy Adar.

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 11

There was nothing extreme about any of us—making us, in short, exactly the kind of crew that the Outdoor Discovery Programs cater to. Our trip began early on Friday at the Bean headquarters in Freeport. After the meet-andgreets with the trip leaders, both Registered Maine Guides, we hopped into cargo vans and headed north. Three hours later, we were setting up tents and laying out sleeping bags at our park site. The strength of these trips is in what you don’t have to wrestle with. Show up on time, pack warm clothes and maybe a book—these are the things you’re responsible for. The rest—equipment, reservations, planning—is taken care of. And no matter how early you wake up, you can bet the coffee is already going. All of this freed us up to focus on our surroundings. Our first full morning, we broke camp after breakfast and spent the next six hours scaling two small peaks, which paid off with stunning views of Mount Katahdin, Maine’s highest mountain, moving in and out of the clouds. The following day we were back in the woods, scampering along a trail that cut beside a river. Resting on a series of rocks atop a waterfall, we took in the sights below as we refueled on local cheeses, breads, and crackers. 12 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

clockwise from left: A cooked-from-scratch camp breakfast; taking a moment to warm up by the fire before a day of hiking in Maine’s largest state park; exploring pools and waterfalls on a forest ramble.

Could we have done this if we’d arranged the trip by ourselves? Of course. The hikes weren’t complicated; the waterfall wasn’t some secret destination. But there was something refreshing about camping and exploring with a group of strangers. When you’re thrown together around a campfire or while logging a few hours on a trail, camaraderie builds. There’s a shared experience to draw from. You feel as though you’ve been through something, even if “roughing it” just means finding a polite way of asking for seconds of the gingerbread. Clearly, an Outdoor Discovery Programs trip isn’t boot camp. And if I really had wanted to hang at the campsite all four days, I could have. There was time to be alone. To read, to stroll, to just unwind. Which is how I found myself on the edge of that creek one early morning, willing myself into some wickedly frigid water—and finding exactly the right kind of refresher that I needed before making my return to the everyday world. For information on L.L. Bean Outdoor Discovery Programs, go to llbean.com and click on “Outdoor Programs.”

ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS Where to get up close with some fascinating creatures in New England

e could all use few more creature comforts in life, right? At these animal-centric destinations around New England, you can get an unforgettable up-close experience with wildlife (and tamer critters, too). —Ian Aldrich

MYSTIC AQUARIUM | MYSTIC, CT The 3½-hour “Trainer for a Day” program introduces you to Mystic Aquarium’s famous residents—from beluga whales to California sea lions—as you work side-by-side with the pros and learn what it takes to care for these special creatures. mysticaquarium.org/experiences

THE NEW HAMPSHIRE SCHOOL OF FALCONRY | DEERING, NH Master falconer Nancy Cowan has turned what began as her husband’s hobby into one of the few licensed falconry schools in the world. The popular two-hour introductory class will have you learning to handle a peregrine falcon and experiencing the thrill of experiencing a Harris’s hawk flying to and from your gloved hand. nhschooloffalconry.com

MAINE WILDLIFE PARK | GRAY, ME More than 30 species of injured or orphaned wildlife that can’t be returned to their natural habitat make their home at this unique park. Which means you’re almost certain to get a rare close-up look at animals such as moose, red-tailed hawks, and black bears. maine.gov/ ifw/wildlife-park/index.html

VERMONT ICELANDIC HORSE FARM | MORETOWN, VT

P H OTO : L E A F U R U TA N I

Easy to ride, the Icelandic horse is a breed known for its good nature and small stature. It was bred to carry riders over challenging terrain, and at this farm and inn, horse lovers can choose from rides of varying lengths, from hourlong jaunts to multiday excursions, that take them into the heart of the Mad River Valley. icelandichorses.com

AUDUBON PUFFIN TOURS | NEW HARBOR AND BOOTHBAY HARBOR, ME Get a new appreciation for Audubon’s success in rebuilding the puffin colony on Maine’s Eastern Egg Rock. Audubon naturalists provide narration on tours by two local operators, Hardy Boat Cruises and Cap’n Fish’s Cruises, that highlight the history of these adorable

Weekends with Yankee co-host Richard Wiese gets hands-on experience with a beluga whale during a visit to Connecticut’s Mystic Aquarium. creatures and the work that it took to bring them back from near extinction. In addition to viewing the puffin colony, you’ll take in other notable sights from the water, including lighthouses, seabirds, and possibly even a whale. projectpuffin.audubon.org/visit-us/puffin-tours

WOLF HOLLOW | IPSWICH, MA This unique sanctuary provides an intimate look at its resident gray wolves and how they interact with one another. Shutterbugs should take advantage of Wolf Hollow’s special “photographer’s session,” which lets you go between the two fences that separate the pack from the public in order to get that unobstructed, oncein-a-lifetime wildlife photo. wolfhollowipswich.org

TUNE IN FOR MORE

Visit a Connecticut farm where you can take a llama for a walk on Weekends with Yankee season five.

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Q&A

LOUISA CONRAD Living the sweet life on Big Picture Farm

Where did the name “Big Picture Farm” come from? My husband is the “word guy,” and he came up with it. I was making a lot of pictures at the time, and we wanted pictures to be central to what we do. But there was also the big-picture idea of everything we wanted to do: how we wanted to live, how we wanted to farm, how we wanted to eat. We also wanted the farm to help promote smallscale agriculture, to be a place where you can have names for all 14 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

Big Picture Farm co-owners Louisa Conrad and Lucas Farrell with daughter Maisie. the goats and know what they eat and treat them as well as you can. What’s it like to work with goats? Where to begin? For starters, they’re the best. They’re magical and mystical—they’re more like dogs than sheep. Which means they’re smart, so they’re also a pain in the neck. But they’re super-friendly and have goofy personalities. I also think they’re extremely beautiful creatures. They’re a nice size. They’re very manageable to work with. Our farm is on a rocky, bony hill, with fields littered with rock piles from previous farmers. It’s not something you could do a lot with, but it’s perfectly suitable for goats. Compared with the caramels many of us ate as kids, what’s different about what you’re making? Those other caramels use corn syrup and butter; there’s no milk. Which presents challenges for our version. It isn’t shelf-stable, so we can’t use large distributors. Mostly mom-and-

pop shops carry our caramels. Also, we wanted to tell the story of goats. So we include a booklet that describes our goats, and you can go to our website and find out what the goats were eating on the day your caramels were made. Why is offering your customers that kind of experience important? I want people to think about where their food comes from, so when they pick up one of our caramels they go, “I didn’t know you could make caramels from goat milk.” Even with something like a candy, your assumptions can change. I want people to be aware that what you’re buying comes from somewhere, where there are animals involved in making it, and there is labor and love that went into creating it.

TUNE IN FOR MORE

Come meet Louisa, Lucas, and all their goofy goats on our visit to Vermont’s Big Picture Farm on Weekends with Yankee season five.

PHOTO: BOB HANDELMAN

hen Louisa Conrad and Lucas Farrell began farming in 2010, they knew two things: They wanted to work with goats, and they wanted to bring their creativity to it (she was a photographer and visual artist, he was a poet and creative writer). They started out focused on goat cheese, “but then the caramels just took over,” says Louisa, referring to the sweets that have put Big Picture Farm, their dairy and creamery in Townshend, Vermont, on the map. Dressed up in whimsical packaging designed by Conrad, the caramels have won national accolades, including Yankee’s annual Food Awards. We recently caught up with Louisa to learn more about her family’s sweet life on the farm. —Ian Aldrich

Cape Ann WEEKEND ON

This seaside destination is a Bay State treasure hiding in plain sight S TORY BY A M Y T R AV ERSO | PHOTOS BY A DA M DE TOUR

Soaking up a perfect summer day by the ocean at Good Harbor Beach in Gloucester, Massachusetts. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 15

perfect weekend awaits on a “hidden” part of the Massachusetts coastline, a place so consistently overlooked by vacationers that locals call it, with a little sigh, the Other Cape. Cape Ann, of which bustling Gloucester and picturesque Rockport form the eastern margin, is less than an hour’s drive from Boston, but don’t let that whiff of suburbia fool you. Here you’ll find a rocky coastal beauty to rival that of Maine—plus a thriving arts community, great lodging and shopping, and a food scene that has attracted top chefs.

hotel, it is oriented toward the sea, with a stunning view of Ten Pound Island and the summer cottages along the southwestern shore. Rooms are done in a modern nautical style, and the restaurant serves a nice buffet brunch on the large terrace. A more intimate though equally stylish option is the Addison Choate Hotel, whose seven rooms have all been recently redone. It’s just a stone’s throw from some of Rockport’s main attractions: Bearskin Neck (more on that later) and the iconic fish shack Motif No. 1. Ready for dinner? Short & Main has been a foodie magnet in downtown Gloucester since opening in 2013. Owners Nico Monday and Amelia O’Reilly met while working at the famed Chez Panisse and bring a Califresh sensibility to the menu. Try the long-fermented, wood-fired pizzas (the sausage-rapini pie is terrific), the excellent crudo and other local seafood, and the seasonal salads that put local produce in the spotlight.

SATURDAY

FRIDAY The 2016 opening of the Beauport Hotel, an elegant 94-room establishment overlooking Pavilion Beach, was a watershed moment in Gloucester’s reemergence as a resort town. Shingled and gambrel-roofed, it resembles New England’s grand old seaside hotels, and it stands in a neighborhood known as The Fort, which has long been the center of the fishing industry (the hotel’s rooftop pool, which offers full bar service, is named after the Birdseye plant that once stood here). While there are active commercial fishing docks behind the 16 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

Follow the locals to Sugar Magnolia’s in downtown Gloucester, where the pineapple fritters, breakfast sammies, and loaded pancakes (carrot cake, bananawalnut) will start you off right. Feeling a bit too full afterward? A perfect antidote is the docent-led walking tour by the Cape Ann Museum that follows in the footsteps of artists like Edward Hopper, Fitz Henry Lane, and Winslow Homer. Circle back to the museum to admire its collection of contemporary works, bold-name artists, and stunning depictions of Gloucester’s fishing heyday in photographs, paintings, and artifacts. Close by the museum, Virgilio’s Bakery & Deli brings a Little Italy vibe to downtown Gloucester. Pick up a sub (try the North Ender: prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes, basil) and a cannoli or a flaky sfogliatelle pastry, which could match that of any North End bakery. Stop in for a book at the Bookstore of Gloucester, a top-notch indie, then stroll a few blocks for a picnic in the garden oasis of the Sargent House Museum, a 1782 Georgian home that once belonged to Judith Sargent Murray, a writer and early women’s rights activist (some works by her descendant John Singer

left: Rockport’s Motif No.1, aka the most-painted fish shack in the world. opposite, clockwise from top left: Shalin Liu Performance Center; seared halibut with heirloom tomatoes from Feather & Wedge; alfresco seafood dining with a view of Ipswich Bay at the Lobster Pool; eclectic home goods at the Bearskin Neck boutique Lula’s Pantry.

focus on that summer pea salad and locally made pasta Sargent are on display inside). If you could access the with lobster and corn. Just be sure to reserve ahead. attic here, you’d see across the rooftops and the harbor all the way to Eastern Point, your next stop, which is a short drive away. SUNDAY The peninsula of Eastern Point has maintained an Grab breakfast pastries and lunch sandwiches at air of exclusivity since the 19th century, when one Sandpiper Bakery, maker of croissants, seasonal scones, family owned it all and forbade public access. There’s and ham and Brie on homemade focaccia. still a guard at the entrance, but this seems mostly Public beach parking lots fill up early but start to ceremonial, since everyone is invited to tour Beauport, slowly empty out after 2 p.m., so plan accordingly. the Sleeper-McCann House, The best public-access operated by Historic beaches are Good Harbor New England. In a region and Wingaersheek, which rich in historic homes, both have parking and this could be considered amenities, stunning views, the crown jewel: a 40and soft white sand. Good room waterfront mansion Harbor’s best feature is the designed by Henry Sleeper, comparatively warm water the celebrity decorator of the river that borders of his day. He conceived the southern end and of Beauport as a series of carries lazy rafters down showrooms, each done its final run to the sea. On in a different style, from the ocean side, waves here early colonial to Arts are more dramatic, but and Crafts to chinoiserie. families with young kids It’s like entering a life-size love the river at low tide. dollhouse, a portal to a Meanwhile, Wingaersheek more glamorous era. No has a long, shallow bay filled wonder Isabella Stewart with smooth rocks that are Gardner was a frequent perfect for climbing. At low guest here. tide, the shallow water goes For an afternoon of on forever, ideal for wading wandering, Cape Ann and gazing out to Annisquam Walking tours by the Cape Ann Museum highlight local landmarks offers two artsy-boutiquey Light in the distance. such as this Gloucester house once painted by Edward Hopper. neighborhoods: Bearskin Honestly, the food at the Neck in Rockport and Lobster Pool is only half the Rocky Neck in Gloucester. Both are worthy options, draw. This ramshackle restaurant offers solid fish-shack but with dinner in mind you may want to focus on the fare; it’s the kind of place where it’s OK to show up with Bearskin, which is stuffed with boutiques, galleries, sandy feet. But what makes it a must-visit is its location ice cream shops, and tourist bric-a-brac. Of note: Joe’s on Folly Cove, with a sweeping view of Ipswich Bay. This Fresh Fish Prints, where owner Joe Higgins practices the is the northwest corner of the cape, and if you time it Japanese art of gyotaku, and Lula’s Pantry, a home goods right and sit on the lawn, you’ll enjoy your lobster dinner store with a coastal vibe. For a quick snack, check out and onion rings in the rosy light of a spectacular sunset. Helmut’s Strudel, an Austrian pastry shop. Regulars bring their own wine and watch the spectacle If you’re lucky enough to have tickets for a concert together, cheering as the last flare sinks into the deep. A at Rockport’s stunning Shalin Liu Performance Center, perfect finale to a perfect weekend. with its floor-to-ceiling water-view window behind the stage, opt for an early (or late) dinner at Feather & Wedge, named after tools used to cut Rockport’s famous TUNE IN FOR MORE granite. It’s a small, chic sanctuary for seasonal fare. Sit Dive into Cape Ann’s shipbuilding history during a visit to Essex on Weekends with Yankee season five. at the bar for the local scene, or go for a table to better 18 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

PORTLAND CALLING Five things not to miss on a summer visit to Maine’s seaside metropolis

or a city of such modest size—just under 70,000 call it home—Portland, Maine, packs plenty of appeal. History, food, art, and of course the seaside location make it one of New England’s bucket-list destinations. You could easily spend a week exploring this intimate and affable city on Casco Bay, but if you have just a day or two, here are the five best things to do. — Jenn Johnson

GET OUT ON THE WATER One of the best ways to get a feel for this part of Maine is to head out into Casco Bay. Portland’s long-running island ferry service, Casco Bay Lines, is a perennial favorite, but there are a number of specialty operators as well, including the Portland Schooner Co., where you can hop aboard an early-1900s windjammer and cruise past lighthouses, forts, and islands on a two-hour sail. cascobaylines.com; portlandschooner.com

PHOTO: MICHAEL D. WILSON

DINE AROUND TOWN The list of worthy eateries in Portland is long, but if you have just a few days, we recommend seafood specialist Eventide Oyster Co.; Slab, serving Sicilian-style pizzas with a tender and lofty crust; and The Holy Donut, whose sinful handmade pastries have even been Yankee cover models. eventideoysterco.com; slabportland.com; theholydonut.com

SAMPLE LOCAL SUDS With 20-plus breweries, Portland shines as the state’s beer mecca. The epicenter is Industrial Way, where you’ll find such breweries as Allagash Brewing Company, home to a justifiably popular brewery tour. allagash.com

SEE THE LIGHT In Cape Elizabeth’s Fort Williams Park, just four miles from downtown, stands Portland Head Light—Maine’s oldest lighthouse, commissioned by George Washington. After visiting the seasonal museum and gift shop in the former keeper’s house, you can picnic in the park or stroll the stunning cliff walk. portlandheadlight.com

SOAK UP SOME ART The largest and oldest public art institution in Maine, the Portland Museum of Art boasts a topflight collection of paintings by American realist and Impressionist masters, a treasure trove of fine and decorative arts, and the largest holding of European art north of Boston. portlandmuseum.org

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From northern mountains to southern shores, New England serves up vibrant autumn color all season long GREAT NORTH WOODS, NH EARLY PEAK (LATE SEP. TO EARLY OCT.) Set in the far northern reaches of New Hampshire, this is a region of twisting two-lane roads, with the promise of moose around every bend. The towns are small and inviting, from Lancaster, then north to Colebrook, and beyond to Pittsburg. Here, hikers set off along the 170 miles of the Cohos Trail, and ATV enthusiasts explore over 1,000 miles of backcountry trails. n scenic route: Drive slowly with open windows north from Colebrook to Pittsburg on Route 145, a National Scenic Byway, and soak in views of water, mountains, forest, and possibly moose. n photo op: At Beaver Brook Falls in Colebrook, water tumbles 80 feet over rocks, while ever-greens and hardwoods lush with color frame every shot. n refueling stop: The Rainbow Grille & Tavern at Tall Timber Lodge in Pittsburg shows that sporting camps that thrive after 70-plus years know how to please hungry anglers and foliage day-trippers.

Coos County, NH

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Peacham, VT

NORTHEAST KINGDOM, VT EARLY PEAK (LATE SEP. TO EARLY OCT.) Though filled with clapboard villages and rugged mountain beauty, the tricounty northeastern corner of Vermont is no mere drive-though postcard. It rewards those visitors who stop and bide a while—whether it’s to spend a day mountain biking on East Burke’s famed Kingdom Trails, or an evening camping at Brighton State Park’s Spectacle Pond, a sheltered gem that fully lives up to its name in autumn. n scenic route: Cruise by bike or car from Brighton to Westmore via Route 105 and Hinton Hill Road, where Lake Willoughby, Vermont’s deepest lake, appears as a blue ribbon from the high open fields. n photo op: Snap a selfie with the stately double row of maples on Darling Hill Road in Lyndonville. n refueling stop: Pay a visit to Greensboro’s world-famous beer mecca, Hill Farmstead Brewery, then grab a pizza at the Parker Pie Co. in West Glover.

Camden, ME

UPPER MIDCOAST, ME MIDDLE PEAK (LATE SEP. TO MID-OCT.) The call of the coast is impossible to resist in autumn—especially along the stretch of Route 1 that hugs Penobscot Bay, linking the destination towns of Rockland, Rockport, and Camden with Belfast and Searsport to the north, now emptied of summer throngs. Kick back at a seafood shack and claim some of the best lobster of the year, and watch the season’s last day-sails and windjammer cruises swanning around against a backdrop of fiery leaves. n scenic route: Climb Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park and—with Penobscot Bay spread out below—you will have achieved the literal pinnacle of Midcoast leaf peeping. n photo op: Hike out onto Rockland’s nearlymile-long breakwater for an uninterrupted view of the harbor and coastline, including the crown of Owls Head Light. n refueling stop: The Red Barn Baking Co. in Camden excels at oven-fresh breads, pastries, cookies, and, of course, whoopie pies—perfect for enjoying on a bench by the harbor.

UPPER PIONEER VALLEY, MA MIDDLE PEAK (LATE SEP. TO MID-OCT.) Set amid the undulating swath of woods and farmland along the Connecticut River, this isn’t the place for languid walks and sleepy B&Bs. Thanks to the five famed local colleges—Mount Holyoke, Smith, Hampshire, Amherst, and UMass Amherst—the region’s stunning foliage and panorama-laden hikes come with a side of indie music, film screenings, book readings, and, to keep it all humming, artisanal coffee.

P H OTO S : J I M S A LG E ( N H ) ; M A R K F L E M I N G ( V T, M E , C T ) ; D E N I S TA N G N E Y J R . / I S TO C K ( R I )

PEAK PERFECTION

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Boulevard, a 1.6-mile path bordered by two roads and crowded with mature trees that put on a show. n photo op: Join the granite statue of city founder Roger Williams in surveying the entire city from the height of Prospect Terrace Park. n refueling stop: For upscale fall flavor, head to New Rivers, a tony College Hill bistro that spotlights produce and meat from area farms.

LOWER CONNECTICUT RIVER VALLEY, CT LATE PEAK (MID- TO LATE OCT.)

Providence, RI n scenic route: Hit the Norwottuck Rail Trail, which offers bikers and walkers a nine-mile canopy of color from Northampton to Amherst. n photo op: Drive or climb Mount Sugarloaf in South Deerfield, where the observation tower affords sweeping views of the Happy Valley and beyond. n refueling stop: Gourmet picnic nibbles— washed-rind cheeses, pâtés, crispy baguettes—can be had at Provisions in Northampton.

PROVIDENCE, RI LATE PEAK (MID- TO LATE OCT.) A haven for leaf peepers looking to ditch their car, Providence offers

walkable, tree-lined neighborhoods dotted with dining and shopping stops. Fall foliage reaches its crescendo in College Hill, where colonial homes and grand mansions line Benefit Street near the cast-iron filigree gates of Brown University. Downtown, colors run amok as street art and large-scale murals by artists from around the world vie for attention with the changing leaves. n scenic route: You can’t beat the East Side’s Blackstone

Autumn at Its Best | Kent, CT Despite the stiff competition that Vermont and New Hampshire villages put up every year for bragging rights to the best foliage town in New England—and, by extension, the world—a recent Yankee ranking placed the pinnacle of leaf peeping in the northwestern Connecticut town of Kent. Of course, that starts with great foliage: The profusion of crimson and gold that leaps off the Litchfield Hills to reflect in the winding course of the Housatonic River is at times nothing short of breathtaking. But the heart of the New England leaf-peeping experience lies in the details: the farm stands and covered bridges, the waterfalls and antiques stores that provide the eye candy, framed by the colors of our most glorious season. All of these things Kent has in abundance, in a perfect blend of uncommon natural beauty and culture that might shame cities 10 times its size (just shy of 3,000 people at last count).

Here, New England’s mightiest river gets a shot of saltwater from Long Island Sound, creating an estuarine environment that sees a flurry of wildlife activity in the fall. Book a river cruise and enjoy nature’s show, from ocean-bound baby shad leaping in silver streaks to a bald eagle soaring overhead, or take a kayaking ecotour into the Great Island Salt Marsh, where you can immerse yourself in an autumn splendor that feels as if it could go on forever. n scenic route: From Old Saybrook, take Route 154 north to Route 148 east straight to the Connecticut River: The Chester-Hadlyme Ferry, in service since 1769, is there to catch you. n photo op: Gillette Castle State Park in East Haddam offers a lofty view of the Connecticut River and the fall colors that shimmer in its waters. n refueling stop: Refueling Stop: Call ahead, and Simon’s Marketplace in Chester will have your custom gourmet picnic (try house-roasted beef on a fresh-baked baguette) ready to tote on a boat or car ride.

YANKEE’S NO. 1 FOLIAGE TOWN!

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WINTER WONDERLAND For the ultimate snowy playground, look no farther than New Hampshire’s Omni Mount Washington Hotel ALPINE SKIING

above, from left: Snowboarding at Bretton Woods; taking an old-fashioned sleigh ride at the Omni Mount Washington Hotel; heading out for cross-country skiing on the hotel grounds. opposite: Flying high on the Canopy Tour at Bretton Woods.

CANOPY TOURS

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Check any ski magazine or website and you’ll often find Bretton Woods—New Hampshire’s largest ski area— near the top of its list for things like best snow, scenery, and grooming in the Northeast. There are 464 acres of terrain, with 63 trails and 35 glades, all of which are easily accessed thanks to a Skyway Gondola that gets visitors to the top in less than five minutes.

NORDIC SKIING Nordic fans consider the eastern White Mountains to have some of the best skiing in the country. Come see why on the 100-kilometer network on the grounds of the Omni Mount Washington Resort. State-of-the-art groomers keep the trails in pristine condition, allowing both classic and skate-style skiers to go until they can go no more. Lessons and equipment are available at the hotel’s Nordic Center.

There are ziplines and then there’s the Canopy Tour at Bretton Woods, a through-the-woods experience that features nine different lines and descends more

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT

t was only few decades ago that the historic Mount Washington Hotel, one of New Hampshire’s last historic grand hotels, would shutter every winter. But in November 1999 it opened its doors as a year-round destination, and the Mount Washington Valley hasn’t been the same since. Today, you could build an entire winter vacation solely around a stay at the hotel, now known as the Omni Mount Washington Resort. Located in Bretton Woods, it sits at the foot of its namesake mountain and is surrounded by 800,000 acres of White Mountain National Forest. On its staff are expert ice climbing and winter hiking guides. Snow-shoe and Nordic trails venture around the property, while its Bretton Woods ski area offers scenic downhill trails to rival any in the Northeast. It’s a veritable winter playground and it’s truly got something for everyone. —Ian Aldrich

than 1,000 vertical feet. Enjoy stunning views of the Presidential Range even while moving at a speed that makes your heart pick up the pace.

Mount Washington, skiing in Tuckerman Ravine, and ice climbing on Frankenstein Cliff.

SLEIGH RIDES

After ripping it up along the resort’s 14 kilometers of snow-covered trails, you might just discover that cycling is indeed a year-round activity for you. Bring your own bike, or rent one from the Nordic Center.

Amiable draft horses lead the way along century-old bridle paths for this family-friendly adventure. Choose between a single-horse sleigh ride or an Austrian-style one (two horses), but know that if you fail to chat up it with driver Luke Thorne, whose family has managed the resort’s horse barn for decades, you’re experiencing only half the fun.

GUIDED ADVENTURES Serious adventure in the Mount Washington Valley requires experience and know-how—both of which Steve Nichipor, director of the resort’s climbing and guided programs, has in spades. With more than two decades of Valley winters under his belt, he leads programs for novices and experts, including ascending

FAT-TIRE BIKING

KIDS’ SNOWMOBILE PARK It’s not just about the skiing at Bretton Woods. At this designated snow machine area, youngsters get a taste for some high-revving fun as they navigate banked turns and straight stretches. Expert guides supervise the adventure, and each rider is provided with a full-face helmet.

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THE ZEN OF

Pasta One of the nation’s best new chefs, Douglass Williams, extols the simple pleasures of a timeless culinary tradition

S TORY BY A M Y T R AV ERSO | PHOTOS BY MICH A EL PI A Z Z A

he pastry and pasta station at Mida Lower Roxbury. Since Mida opened in 2016, its dining restaurant in Boston is a small, tidy, dimly lit room has stood out as one of the most diverse in the corner carved out of a subterranean kitchen. city, a frustratingly rare phenomenon in Boston. So When chef-owner Douglass Williams stands with customers to feed, interviews to grant, and Covid at the counter where he makes his doughs, precautions to devise, Williams finds his problem now there’s perhaps eight inches between his is not struggling to survive as much as it is learning how head and the ceiling. Across the room, the to juggle it all. He is a warm person, a born nurturer, commercial dishwasher clatters; line cooks bound up but his brain is always in fifth gear, solving logistical and down the stairs. But this spot is a sanctuary, the puzzles, putting out fires, scouting new opportunities. calm amid the storm of a busy restaurant. The pasta kitchen is where he finds his peace. Of all the years for a chef to achieve national Cooking, like sports or dance, is an embodied recognition, 2020 ended up being Williams’s. Last May, profession. Spatial awareness is critical—in how Food & Wine named him one of the country’s 10 best you move in a tiny kitchen, or position meat on a new chefs, calling Mida “a crowded grill. Then there’s the temple to carbohydrates.” It muscle and sense memory of sang the praises of Williams’s working with dough. The brain pasta craft, which he learned downshifts. “The whole outside at culinary school in his world beyond the table just home state of New Jersey but disappears,” he says. “You’re mastered while working his trying to have your fingertips way up through such kitchens read the pasta and act as your as Boston’s award-winning eyes. All that has a meditative Coppa and Radius restaurants. quality. I don’t outsource the With the Food & Wine nod, pasta making, because the a good-news-starved media reason I opened Mida is that phalanx beat a path to his I wanted to teach pasta. To Chef Williams gives Amy a lesson in making gnocchi during door. And though quarantine please people and to make her visit to his restaurant, Mida, on Weekends with Yankee. and temporary closures hit the people feel welcomed. It’s the bottom line, Mida was lucky need to make something that enough to have its neighborhood rally around it, even comes from my hands and from my heart.” before the rest of the country took an interest. For a recent feature in Yankee magazine, Williams shared Mida sits on the corner of Massachusetts Avenue and recipes designed with both pasta newbies and experienced Tremont Street, which puts it between two economically cooks in mind. You’ll find one of our favorites, Ricotta and racially distinct neighborhoods: the South End and Gnocchi Cacio e Pepe, on page 28.

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Mida chef-owner Douglass Williams took his restaurant’s name from an Italian phrase for “he/she gives me,” which he says fits the spirit of generosity that he hopes Mida embodies.

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DOUGLASS WILLIAMS’S RICOTTA GNOCCHI CACIO E PEPE Gnocchi are commonly made with potatoes, but here Williams makes the little dumplings with ricotta, Parmesan, flour, and egg, then finishes them with the classic cacio e pepe sauce. “With this dough, you’re just trying to bring it together, not kneading it,” he explains. When it’s time to roll the dough out, “you want to keep the log under your fingers. Your palms are a little too heavy for this. Your fingers are the perfect weight.” For the pasta 4 cups whole-milk ricotta 2 cups finely grated Parmesan, divided 1 large egg, plus 2 egg yolks 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for the cooking water ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 2½ cups all-purpose flour For the sauce 1 cup pasta water from boiling the gnocchi 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1½ tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 teaspoons lemon juice Freshly grated lemon zest First, make the gnocchi: In a large bowl, mix together the ricotta, 1 cup Parmesan, egg and yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg until smooth. Add half the flour to the mixture, folding it in gently with a spatula or plastic bench scraper. Add the remaining flour, gently folding until it’s almost fully incorporated. (This should take less than 5 minutes.) Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface and

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shape into a loaf about 1 foot long. Divide crosswise into 8 equal portions. Roll each portion with your fingertips into a “rope” about ½ inch thick, then cut into individual pieces. Toss the pieces in flour to coat. Transfer to a lightly floured rimmed baking sheet, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. You’ll want to make the cacio e pepe sauce while the gnocchi cooks so that everything finishes at the same time. Drop the gnocchi into the water and boil until it rises to the surface. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Set a

Ricotta Gnocchi Cacio e Pepe

skillet (12 to 14 inches) over a burner, but don’t turn it on. Add 1 cup water from the pasta pot, pepper, salt, olive oil, butter, and lemon juice. Turn heat to high and wait for the mixture to come to a boil. Now scoop the gnocchi out of the pot with a strainer or slotted spoon and add it to the pan. Cook the liquid down until it thickens into a sauce, then take the pan off the heat and sprinkle in the remaining 1 cup Parmesan, swirling and gently stirring the sauce until everything is blended. Garnish with lemon zest and serve immediately. Yields 6 servings.

Q&A as a salad girl, which I hated—I wanted to actually cook. So I hawked my diamond ring, got $1,000 for it, and went to London to study at Le Cordon Bleu. When I came back to Maison Robert, I started on the line and worked my way up to be chef of the main dining room, which was really unheard of for a woman at that time.

LYDIA SHIRE Catching up with the top Boston chef and restaurant-industry trailblazer

PHOTO: MICHAEL PIA Z Z A

ydia Shire was a young mother of three, cooking her way through Julia Child’s books and nurturing French Chef dreams, when an unexpected divorce spurred her to actually find a job in the kitchen. Six years later, she was running Boston’s Maison Robert, where Child discovered her and made her a protégé. As Shire rose to national acclaim, running such legendary restaurants as Biba and Locke-Ober, she redefined how Americans saw women in the kitchen and paved a path for the next generation of top chefs. —Amy Traverso How did you get your start in the culinary world? I wanted to be a French chef, and the best French restaurant in Boston was Maison Robert. I started there

Tell us a bit about how you got to know Julia Child. What was your relationship with her like? I think she loved the fact that Lucien Robert [the owner of Maison Robert] was paying this Irish girl from Brookline to be the chef there, that I had risen up through the ranks and paid my dues. Julia started introducing me to these young women who wanted to break into the restaurant business. That was Julia’s beauty: It wasn’t about her. She was always trying to get people together to further the world of gastronomy. Then as time went on, I went over to visit her in her home in Provence. She always had me making something and I was always nervous, but she was always appreciative. And then we became even friendlier. She would say things like, “Let’s go to Chinatown. We haven’t been in a long time.” Then one day she said, “Lydia, how would you like to go to London and eat oysters and drink Sancerre at Harrods?” What do you say to that? Of course you say yes. I also was very proud of the fact that on her last night in Boston, before she moved to Santa Barbara, she came to Locke-Ober. That was her last meal in Boston. She always had duck—she never had anything else in my restaurants. Your current restaurant, Scampo, managed to hang in there during the pandemic. What do you think the dining scene will look like, going forward? I know that people will always need to celebrate. They’ll always need to have someone else cook for them. They’ll always need to go to restaurants because they transport you to this beautiful world. And restaurants are going to be back better than ever. When people are vaccinated, there will be scars left; those scars will remain for a long time. But you have to have restaurants. You’re not a society without restaurants.

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Julia Child’s signature joie de vivre shines through as she prepares lobster thermidor on an episode of The French Chef.

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REMEMBERING

Julia

A vintage Yankee profile finds the queen of cooking pondering her next steps The following is an abridged version of Richard Bacon’s article “Still Cooking with a Flair,” which originally appeared in the November 1979 issue of Yankee.

B & W P H O T O : J U L I A C H I L D I M A G E , P H O T O G R A P H & R E L A T E D R I G H T S ™ / © 2 0 21 T H E J U L I A C H I L D F O U N DAT I O N F O R G A S T R O N O M Y A N D T H E C U L I N A R Y A R T S

hen we were first married,” Paul Child says, “Julia was always hungry, but she didn’t know enough about cooking to do anything about it.” With him as her incentive, she took a crash program in learning French, and then immersed herself in cooking lessons in Paris where they were living. Since then she has been doing her own culinary thing with steadily increasing confidence and command. Some say she could coat the most abysmal meal with a layer of cheese, put it under the broiler for a few minutes, and present it as if it were ambrosia fit for the gods. Likely as not, it would be. In popularizing the art of good eating, Julia Child has demonstrated to millions of stay-at-home cooks that a certain devil-may-care attitude and a dram of humor are nearly as essential as the raw materials all cooks deal with regularly. As with her traditional TV sign-off—a raised glass and a jaunty “Bon appétit”—Julia inspires confidence, even among those who have never felt an urge for culinary derring-do. Julia Child has perfected the art of good teaching as well. She captures the attention with her energy and her somehow outrageous naturalness. Her husband calls her a clown, a ham even, and Julia doesn’t deny the charge. “When one is a teacher,” she says, smiling, “haven’t you found it so?” In surely what must be an all-time film classic—as understated as the best of Charlie Chaplin—in the mid1960s millions watched her show, fascinated, while she absently fondled a suckling pig under one arm as if it were some strange house pet, cleaning its snout and ears with a towel, brushing its teeth. And all the time, straight on camera without the glimmer of a smile, she

talked about the steps it takes to prepare a whole pig for the oven. Her performance convinced us it is a common thing to do for a special occasion, that the satisfaction to be had from eating roast suckling pig will be staggering if one is only willing to follow her simple lead. Ruth Lockwood, her producer for the past 12 years, says, “Julia wants to show you how to do things properly. And if something goes wrong—which it does from time to time with all of us—she wants to make you feel confident enough to correct it. She wants to help other cooks eliminate the worry and fear of failure.” One result of this demystifying process and of exposing the art of good cooking to a mass audience is that Julia Child has put fun and satisfaction back into the American kitchen. “The kitchen should be the core of the home with a lot going on in it all the time,” she says. “The way to get people involved with each other is to involve them over food. Good eating and good company are marks of civilized living, don’t you agree? Without them we’d all be savages.” WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 31

With The French Chef, Julia Child created one of the first cooking shows on U.S. television. The hit show, produced by Boston’s WGBH, ran for 10 years, and was followed by several others starring the charismatic Child. in a house similar to the one she and Paul live in now. Her mother was originally from western Massachusetts, so it seemed natural for Julia to come East for her education. After graduating from Smith College, she was drawn to Manhattan. She dreamed of writing for a national magazine but took a job instead with a large department store. She says now it trained her to be a stickler for observed detail, which was reinforced when WWII broke out and she worked for the OSS. It was there she met Paul. They were married after the war was over, and Paul Child accepted a State Department assignment in Paris. After six months of lessons at the Cordon Bleu to learn 32 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

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the fundamentals of cooking French style, Julia continued private lessons with several French chefs. Her original success was co-authoring the first volume of Mastering the Art of French Cooking with Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle. The massive book took 10 years to prepare. When it was initially sent out to publishers, the manuscript was turned down. It was too long and did not follow a traditional pattern of presentation. Eventually, in 1961 Alfred A. Knopf was farsighted enough to take it on. It has been a cook’s bible ever since. Then came TV. And more cookbooks. She collaborated again with Simone Beck on Volume Two of Mastering. Since then she has written The French Chef’s Cookbook, From Julia Child’s Kitchen, and Julia Child and Company. Her latest series of 13 PBS programs, rehearsed and taped at Boston’s Channel 2, is Julia Child and More Company. But even as it was being filmed, another phase of Julia’s work began. Her latest book, of the same title, will be published by Knopf before the release of the television series and in time for the Christmas trade. Now she divides herself between her kitchen and her typewriter, between Cambridge and New York. In some respects Julia Child’s 15 years of being workoriented have taken their toll. They have not diminished her standards or her enthusiasm, but they have affected her stamina. Now, after 250 televised cooking lessons since 1963, when The French Chef was first aired in the Boston area and then went on to become a national passion, the French Chef says she needs a rest. “I’m 66 years old. I want more uninterrupted time to spend with Paul. We enjoy each other’s company. I need to further my own interests and my knowledge.” She wants to take pastry lessons from a chef in France. She wants to have more time to experiment, to travel, to work up new ideas. One of her dreams is to inspire her producers to continue cooking lessons on TV but with a series of notable and different cooks. It would continue what she’s started. “Maybe there will be more professionally trained chefs because of me,” she says. “More and more women are getting into the business. In the United States there seems to be more interest in professional cookery among the young than there is anywhere else in the world. “Taste is such an important—and neglected—part of living, don’t you agree?”

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For her work and pleasure Julia Child collects kitchen tools: a wall of heavy copper pots and pans, pegboards where each artifact hangs in its assigned place handy to an appropriate work area, drawers and cabinets organized with gadgets old and new. A mixer and a food processor stand at strategic points near electrical outlets behind the counter. She is a professional cook who has the right tool for the right job, but she is also an unselfconscious performer who never seems to be at a loss when the unexpected happens. In fact, she is so well fortified with technical cooking skills that she seems to welcome the unusual, and always turns it to her own advantage, as if saying to her audience, “This is part of it. It happens to everyone. Now let’s see what we can do about it.” Born in Pasadena, California, the eldest of three children, Julia came to cooking relatively late. She grew up

Q&A drinkers might not consider themselves connoisseurs. Most just want to drink something that tastes good to them. How do you help newbies discover those wines? I taste about 6,000 wines a year. Based on their body or mouthfeel, I put them on a scale of 1 to 10 for whites and 1 to 10 for reds, and they’re organized that way on shelves in the store. You can explore within those categories based on your palate. At the end of the day, it’s much easier to pair wine with food based on its body, rather than its vintage or aroma or geography or varietal. Do you think that the pandemic changed the way we drink?

TJ DOUGLAS Uncorking the wisdom of a game-changing wine expert

PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE URBAN GR APE

s co-founder of the Boston wine shop The Urban Grape, TJ Douglas wants to knock down every barrier that stands between you and a great bottle of wine: the uncertainty, the geographical minutiae, the elitism. Toward that end, he and his wife and business partner, Hadley, created a wine classification system that helps both oenophiles and oenephobes find what they like. The Douglases also established the Urban Grape Wine Studies Award for Students of Color at Boston University, to promote diversity in the industry. Plus, they’ve written a highly accessible wine guide, Drink Progressively, that aims to take the confusion out of pairing food and wine. —Amy Traverso Sometimes it seems the wine world is divided between box-wine drinkers and connoisseurs. But what about everyone else?

Actually, most of us fit into the in-between: the world of $10-to-$30 bottles. And I’d say 95 percent of wine

In the beginning, people were hoarding alcohol like they were hoarding toilet paper. And people were cooking more at home, trying new recipes, learning how to pair wine with food. It’s been an incredibly busy year for us at The Urban Grape—we did more than 500 virtual tastings! Looking ahead, I can’t wait to have dinner parties again. I think we’re going to appreciate that communal table even more. How has your experience of being a person of color in the wine world shaped what you do? I’m using my platform to amplify the voices of others—for instance, promoting a first-generation, award-winning Mexican winemaker whose wines are extraordinary and get our customers thinking. But most important, we realized a few years ago that brown and black people weren’t applying for our sales jobs, only for labor jobs. There’s that excuse of “How can I hire people if they aren’t applying?” We realized we had the opportunity to show people that even if they didn’t have wine on the table growing up, the wine industry can be an amazing career path. With the Urban Grape Wine Studies program, we’ve raised enough money so that two students per year will go through a certificate course into perpetuity. We’re also offering paid internships and mentorship. When people come out of this course, they can do whatever they want in the industry.

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CRUNCH TIME

A look at New England’s long-running love affair with apples

PHOTO: ADAM DETOUR (APPLES)

tephen Wood bounds over to a large tree hanging heavy with russeted fruit. “You gotta see this one—this is one wild apple.” He pulls an apple off a branch and hands it to me. It’s crisp, a bit roughtextured, and astringent, like tea from leaves left too long in the cup. It’s a Medaille d’Or, one of dozens of traditional French, British, and American apples that Wood grows at Poverty Lane Orchards in the rolling hills of Lebanon, New Hampshire, and blends into his Farnum Hill ciders. This unusual fruit is one of dozens of varieties I’ve tasted over the years as I wrote The Apple Lover’s Cookbook. I’ve tasted New England natives like Roxbury Russet and Baldwin, the signature Champagne apple of New Mexico, and California’s pink-fleshed Hidden Rose. Apples are adaptable and can thrive in a wide swath of the earth’s temperate regions. In this country, they’re grown commercially in 32 states, and home orchards can be found from Alaska to Florida. But no apples taste as good to me as those grown in New England, where you’ll see remnants of former orchards in long-abandoned fields, in fores;ts, and even in most cities. Apples are so tied to our history that when I first began my research, I half-expected to learn that the Pilgrims had found rows of Baldwin and McIntosh trees when they first stepped ashore at Plymouth. In reality, North America’s only native apple species are crabapples. The sweet apples we associate with home and country first originated in Asia, and over time were carried west via ancient trade routes; they eventually landed in North America in the 17th century when colonizing Brits carried them along. The first original American apple variety, a chance seedling that came to be called Blaxton’s Yellow

Sweeting, sprouted up around 1625 on the property of the Rev. William Blaxton, the first British settler in Boston. The site of his homestead is now Beacon Hill; a memorial plaque at 50 Beacon Street honors him. Not long after Blaxton’s success, someone—it’s not clear who—discovered a sweet, russeted, green apple growing in a field in Roxbury, south of Boston, and liked it well enough to propagate it. It became the Roxbury Russet apple, still in active production today. For the early colonists, apples weren’t just a sweet table fruit. They were the source of cider vinegar, which was used in food preservation. They provided hard apple cider, and from cider came distilled ciderjack, which was used as a spirit, a preservative, and an anesthetic. Soon there were orchards lining the Eastern Seaboard as far south as northern Georgia, and apples became a staple of American cooking. By 1905, when the United States Department of Agriculture produced a catalogue of all known apple varieties grown domestically during the previous century, the total exceeded 14,000. Today the U.S. Apple Association says that only about 100 varieties are grown on a significant commercial scale—but apples still thrive here in New England and in other parts of the country. How many of us can experience fall without a visit to the local orchard? When you pick local fruit, you’re keeping our apple heritage alive. And then when you do return home with your bounty, you can use our apple guide and recipes (see link below), to make the most of this fruit, so wedded to who we are and where we come from. —Amy Traverso

GO ONLINE FOR MORE

To see Amy Traverso’s guide to choosing the right apple varieties for different kinds of dishes, and to find a selection of brand-new recipes from the updated version of The Apple Lover’s Cookbook, go to newengland.com/apples. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 35

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LOCAL FLAVOR

Yankee editors share some favorite tastes of New England that deliver to your doorstep

SHARP CHEDDAR | SHELBURNE FARMS (VT)

P H O T O S : J O E S T. P I E R R E (1, 6 , 9 ) ; M E L I S S A D I P A L M A ( 4 ) ; L O R I P E D R I C K ( 5 ) ; A L L O T H E R S C O U R T E S Y O F S O U R C E

A great all-purpose medium-sharp cheddar is buttery and tangy, can shine on a cheese board or elevate a grilled cheese, and comes at an affordable price. Shelburne’s 6-Month Cheddar stands out for its complex flavor and rich buttercup hue, thanks to the farm’s herd of Brown Swiss cows, who spend warm-weather days in grassy meadows overlooking Lake Champlain. store.shelburnefarms.org

HARD CIDER | FARNUM HILL CIDERS (NH)

The heady offshoot of Poverty Lane Orchards, one of the oldest apple operations in New Hampshire, Farnum Hill brings out a whole new palette of flavors in its cornerstone fruit—and will happily deliver the results to cider lovers in 41 states and D.C. Choose from the Extra Dry Cider, the fizz-free Extra Dry Still, or the more rustic and casual Farmhouse Cider, a friendly pairing with almost any food. farnumhillciders.com

CARDAMOM-INFUSED MAPLE SYRUP RUNAMOK MAPLE (VT)

Fans of French toast know that cinnamon and maple syrup are as cozy a pairing as cocoa and marshmallows. But cardamom and maple syrup? It’s less familiar, but no less sublime. The floral notes of the spice dance a little waltz with the high, sweet notes of the syrup, giving it a warmer, brighter profile. Try it on ice cream, in seltzers and cocktails, and most definitely on pancakes. runamokmaple.com

GLUTEN-FREE ALMOND CAKE | MAYFAIR FARM (NH)

Mayfair Farm co-owner Sarah Heffron has perfected this recipe over the past 10 years, and remembers the exact moment she knew it was going to be a hit: when her Austrian grandmother gave it the thumbs-up. The result is a superlative almond cake—as richly flavored as marzipan but tender and buttery and not too sweet—made from local pasture-raised eggs and butter. mayfairfarmnh.com

CIDER HONEY FARMSTEAD CARAMELS BIG PICTURE FARM (VT)

Using milk from its herd of Saanen goats, Big Picture Farm produces ultracreamy, dash-of-salty caramels in flavors such as brown butter bourbon, chai, and our favorite, cider honey. The goat’s milk is subtle but pleasantly tangy, and the added cider from nearby Putney Mountain Winery brings a festive layer of fruitiness. bigpicturefarm.com

FRIED CLAMS | WOODMAN’S (MA)

Although home cooks may be intimidated by the thought of deep frying, the kit from this century-old restaurant makes the whole thing a breeze. The “Chubby’s” fried clam kit includes everything you’ll need for breading, one jar of Woodman’s own tartar sauce, and a generous bag of shucked clams. All you have to do is heat some oil and fry away! woodmans.com/shop

EUROPA CHEESE | ARETHUSA FARM (CT)

The brainchild of two Manolo Blahnik executives, Arethusa Farm is home to nearly 400 cows, several barns (a sign in one reads: “Every cow in this barn is a lady, please treat her as such”), a restaurant, a retail shop, and a café. And oh yes, lots of great cheese. Based on a classic Gouda, the Europa has a hint of sweetness but also flavors of edamame and savory broth. It’s divine in grilled cheese, fondue, and mac and cheese. arethusafarm.com

LOBSTER ROLLS LUKE’S LOBSTER | PORTLAND ME

There may be no more memorable Maine dining experience than the lobster roll—but you don’t have to go to Maine to get it, thanks to Luke’s Lobster. It cooks and flash-freezes the best of the local catch, then packs it up with Luke’s secret seasoning and—purists, take note—New England-style, split-top buns. shop.lukeslobster.com

CIDER DOUGHNUTS | RED APPLE FARM (MA)

The apple cider doughnut in its ideal form possesses a tender, cakelike crumb; a crackly cinnamon-sugar coating; and that specific set of spices which, when combined, taste unmistakably like the first brisk day of fall. And while mail-order may never beat the ones fresh out of the fryer, Red Apple Farm’s version—made using its own farm-pressed cider— holds up beautifully to the rigors of long-distance travel. redapplefarm.com WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 37

Q&A

ANA SORTUN & CHRIS KURTH Meeting up with two local-food heroes in Massachusetts

So how did a chef and a farmer meet and fall in love? Ana: Chris was introduced to me when he was working at the Farm School in Athol, Massachusetts. They were looking for restaurants that would buy some of their vegetables, and Chris walked in one day with a bunch of spinach at a really, really bad time—right before [restaurant] “show time,” at 5 o’clock. But I’ve always had a soft spot for farmers, so I stopped what I was doing and looked at his spinach. It didn’t take long after that. How did the pandemic change your businesses? Chris: Pre-2020, about 40 percent of the farm’s veggies went to retail, 40 percent to our CSA program, and 20 percent to restaurants. Now, 75 percent of our crop goes out to our CSA subscribers. One of our best experiences of the past year was feeling so appreciated by our customers. People cared really deeply about what was happening to farms and restaurants and other local businesses. I’m confident that a general concern for our neighbors will be one of the long-term lessons of this pandemic. I’m hoping it is. You also launched a very successful communitysupported restaurant program, or “CSR,” that sold subscriptions to boxes of heat-and-eat foods 38 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

from Oleana and Sofra. Tell us a little more about that. Ana: It started with Maura Kilpatrick, my business partner at Sofra, trying to get some pies attached to the distribution system of Siena Farms’ “Gobble Box,” which is this enormous box of produce you can order with everything you’d need for Thanksgiving. As they worked on that, Chris and Rachel Orchard, his CSA manager, thought, Wow, we could really help the restaurants out. We live and breathe the CSA model through Siena Farms, so it wasn’t a stretch. The challenge was developing a production system, but we handed distribution over to the farm. It brought us a lot of stability, and it also gave us a sense of purpose. It demanded good, creative energy. Without it, I would’ve been laser-focused on how much money we were losing and all the negatives that every restaurant was experiencing. Are you optimistic about the future of food? Chris: I think it’s going to be hard for anyone to take anything for granted after this crazy year, including understanding the need to shorten the supply chains for food. We hope the “Buy Local” campaign has a lot more importance now for all of us.

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PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER CHURCHILL

ew couples have careers as sublimely synchronized as Ana Sortun and Chris Kurth. She’s a chef; he’s a farmer. They live just a stone’s throw from the 50 acres that make up Siena Farms, Kurth’s vegetable-growing operation in Sudbury, Massachusetts. Those veggies anchor the menus of Sortun’s Boston-area restaurants Oleana, Sofra, and Sarma. Her work, in turn, influences the 100-plus varieties of vegetables grown at Siena. We recently caught up with the couple to learn more about their unique partnership. —Amy Traverso

Blueberry HEAVEN

In August, the wild blueberry barrens of Down East Maine become a center of community and celebration

S TORY BY MOLLY SHUS T ER | PHOTOS BY K INDR A CLINEFF

or a few weeks in August, the wild blueberry season transforms the rocky land north of Bar Harbor into an all-hands-on-deck hub of frantic productivity. Beyond the coastline, past evergreen trees dotting the shore, green blueberry fields stretch into the distance. In acre after acre, pickers hunch over their rakes, sifting up berries and throwing them into big crates, while machines harvest the fruit in nearby fields. During this end-of-summer rush, the northern half of the state will produce more than 80 million pounds of wild blueberries in a good year. Lobster may be the signature flavor of Vacationland, but here, the blueberry is king. About 45 minutes northwest of Bar Harbor, the town of Cherryfield is, ironically, the self-proclaimed “Blueberry Capital of the World.” Home to Wyman’s, the largest U.S. producer of wild blueberries,

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August is picking time in the barrens around Cherryfield, Maine. This harvest is destined for Wyman’s, the largest U.S. processor of wild blueberries.

the town traces its name to the wild cherry trees that once grew abundantly here. Today, locals have recast the moniker as a reference to the cherry-red flush of blueberry bushes in autumn. So much of the local economy depends on this crop—from the equipment suppliers and rake manufacturers to the restaurants selling blueberry pies— that it’s common to overhear locals inquiring after one another’s fields and harvests before asking about their family. This abundant love of wild blueberries culminates in the annual Wild Blueberry Festival in Machias, halfway between 40 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

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Learn the secrets of making Maine wild blueberry pie from Portland’s Two Fat Cats bakery on Weekends with Yankee season three.

Cherryfield and the Canadian border. During the third weekend in August, the town hosts a blueberry jubilee, with pie-eating contests, bake-offs, pancake breakfasts, fish-fry dinners, craft booths, and road races. The highlight is the always-soldout blueberry-themed musical production at Centre Street Congregational Church. Past performances include “The Big Blue

Theory” and “In Lieu of Flowers, Send Blueberries.” Congregants of all ages make up the cast, and watching from the pews, it would appear that any resident who’s not actually up on stage must be in the audience cheering them on. It’s a lot of fuss over such a small berry. But wild blueberries are more than just a tasty summer fruit or a filler of pancakes and muffins. This is a mighty species, both in its importance to this community and in its ability to take root in such inhospitable terrain. One of just three native North American berries (cranberries and wild grapes also share the distinction, while other common contenders, like strawberries and raspberries, aren’t technically berries at all), it is indeed wild—unlike its more common counterpart, the plump and towering highbush blueberry. Wild Vaccinium angustifolium—both the bush and the fruit—are about a third the size of their domesticated counterparts, and, as their name implies, they’re difficult to plant or transport, though determined gardeners with just the right blend of acidic soil and abundant sunshine may manage to grow them, if they’re lucky. In this way, they’re more like a mineral resource than an agricultural crop; they’re either there or they’re not. All of Maine’s wild blueberries are part of an indigenous network of underground runners (or rhizomes) that grow along the rugged coastal lands of northern Maine, Atlantic Canada, and Quebec. This rocky

landscape, affectionately known as “the barrens,” is the product of a glacial retreat that occurred more than 13,000 years ago, and its starkness seems to promise nothing but lichen and weeds. Yet tucked among the rocks, the lowlying bushes are bursting with tiny berries, stretching as far as the eye can see. The barrens are vast, but nature can hardly keep pace with demand. Wild blueberries are lauded as a “superfood,” offering double the antioxidant power of highbush blueberries, with anti-inflammatory properties that hold promise for the treatment of cancer and Alzheimer’s disease. For Flanagan, feeding this supply chain is a delicate balance. The plants are biennial bearers: They produce fruit only every other year. And the company, which was founded in 1874 by Jasper Wyman, remains small and family-owned, despite the ubiquity of those bright-blue Wyman’s bags in the frozen-foods aisle. So careful management is key. As Ed Flanagan put it when he was Wyman’s CEO: “We were doing this sustainability thing before we knew what the word meant.” One major focus: funding research into honeybee preservation with Penn State and the University of Maine to understand the cause of colonycollapse disorder, and speaking out on the importance of pollinators to the U.S. food system. Because without pollinators, there would be no blueberries. And without blueberries, an essential culture would be lost. For farmers like Donny Jordan, it’s unthinkable. When interviewed for this article, he was retired after 40 years in the barrens. “But if I were 16,” he told us, “I’d be right back there.”

WILD BLUEBERRY DUTCH-BABY This oven-baked pancake has the drama of a soufflé without the stress. Bring it straight from the oven to the table for all to admire—it will deflate but remain slightly puffed and delicious. ½ ½ 2 2 ¹⁄ 8 ¹⁄ 8 3 ½

cup all-purpose flour cup whole milk large eggs tablespoons granulated sugar teaspoon table salt teaspoon ground nutmeg tablespoons unsalted butter cup wild blueberries (fresh or frozen) Juice from ½ lemon 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

Preheat your oven to 425° and set a rack to the lower position. Lightly beat the flour, milk, eggs, sugar, salt, and nutmeg. The batter will be a bit lumpy. Melt the butter in a 9-inch cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh. Pour the batter into the heated skillet and sprinkle with berries, then bake until golden and puffed, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice and confectioners’ sugar. Serve immediately with maple syrup, if desired. Yields 2 to 4 servings. For links to additional wild blueberry recipes—including Blueberry Cobbler, Blueberry Molasses Cake, and Blueberry Buttermilk Tart—go to newengland.com/blueberry-extra.

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Q&A

MICHAEL TERRIEN Seeing the future of wild Maine blueberry wine

Why on earth would a Napa Valley winemaker make blueberry wine? Are you kidding? A tart and sweet Stone Age fruit, bursting with flavors that speak of the terroir of glaciers, granite, and the ancient Atlantic sea floor? Tell me another fruit that has better winemaking bona fides than the Maine wild blueberry. What’s it like, and who is it for? It’s wicked tart, bubbly, and blue— not exactly a focus-group kind of wine. Five years ago, stores didn’t know where to put it. We thought we might have to drink it all ourselves. But we’re finding a true fan base with the younger crowd that drinks natural wine, wild beer, 42 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

funky ciders, and hard kombucha. Not just in Maine, either. Napa Valley’s Fatted Calf [an acclaimed charcuterie and butcher shop] sells quite a lot of it. A hotel on Hollywood Boulevard serves the cans poolside. Maine’s wild blueberry industry has been around for centuries. Why is this happening now? It’s the zeitgeist. The back-to-theland promise of the 1960s, which brought my parents to Maine, is vivid again. Ten years ago, people were just beginning to discover heritage cider and sour ales. Now they’re ready for a drink that’s 100 percent wild blueberries, with zero sugar and zero sulfites. It’s a superfood, stuffed with antioxidants, naturally low in alcohol, and it tastes crazy alive with beautiful natural acidity from the coast of Maine. Was this a hard sell for the berry growers? At first they thought we were crazy. The first year, John Boyington of Ridgeberry Farm flat-out told us a thousand pounds was way

more fruit than we’d know what to do with. Now we buy 50 tons. Globalism has gutted the field price of blueberries. It’s been tough for families who grow them to survive. We offer our growers a better price— in cash—and it could get better. Apple growers sell cider apples for five times what they used to get for table apples. That could be the story of Maine wild blueberries. Is there really enough fruit to supply a wine industry? There’s more than enough to make a million cases. That may sound like a lot, but it’s a fraction of a percent of California’s production. Nevertheless, it would solve the crisis for our family farms. The University of Maine and the Maine Community College System are interested in supporting this new industry, and there’s a trade group taking shape to encourage others.

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Travel to the blueberry barrens of Maine with Bluet founders Michael Terrien and Eric Martin on Weekends with Yankee season five.

PHOTO: COREY HENDRICKSON

ichael Terrien isn’t the first person to make wine from Maine’s famously flavorful wild berries, but he’s the first with serious winemaking chops. The Maine native had been making celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Napa Valley for 20 years before he and his childhood friend Eric Martin launched Bluet—a dry, sparkling wine made from wild blueberries— in 2014. Could Down East Maine become the Napa of blueberry wine? Terrien explains why he and a lot of other people are starting to think so. —Rowan Jacobsen

IN THE

Kitchen WITHAmy

Yankee’s senior food editor shares her recipe highlights from season five

hen we’re brainstorming new ideas for Weekends with Yankee, we often come back to one phrase as an organizing principle: “sense of place.” Visiting or living in New England means being immersed in dramatic seasonal shifts and distinct microregions, from the rocky Maine coast to the rolling green hills of Vermont. And our food reflects the same precise seasonality and regionality, as evidenced by the recipes

in these pages. From Maine, we have chocolate potato doughnut muffins, inspired by the potato doughnuts of Aroostook County, as well as a blueberry buckle packed with wild berries. There’s Rhode Island–style clear broth clam chowder, too. To pair with our segment on Julia Child, we have puff pastry bites packed with fall flavors like apple, cheddar, and caramelized onion. And finally, there’s a cozy winter recipe for spinach and ricotta dumplings that my family makes for the holidays. Happy cooking! —Amy Traverso

P H OTO A N D S T Y L I N G : L I Z N E I LY

Glazed Chocolate Doughnut Muffins (recipe, p. 44)

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GLAZED CHOCOLATE DOUGHNUT MUFFINS

Wild Maine Blueberry Buckle

In the season five episode “An Edible Tour,” we take a foodie trip to Portland, Maine. Among our stops: The Holy Donut, a hugely popular doughnut shop whose chocolate potato doughnuts helped inspire this recipe. For the muffins 6 tablespoons salted butter, softened, plus more for greasing muffin tin Granulated sugar, for muffin tin 1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1½ cups all-purpose flour ¹⁄ 3 cup cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon table salt ²⁄ 3 cup riced or mashed potatoes ²⁄ 3 cup buttermilk For the glaze 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons milk Multicolored candy sprinkles, for garnish

44 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

Divide the batter evenly among the wells of the muffin tin (a large cookie scoop helps here). Bake until the muffins are firm in the center and just beginning to pull away from the sides, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. When the muffins have cooled completely, make the glaze: In a bowl, whisk the confectioners’ sugar with the milk until smooth. Set the muffins on their wire rack over a baking sheet, then drizzle with the glaze. Decorate with sprinkles, and let the glaze set before serving. Yields 12 muffins. WILD MAINE BLUEBERRY BUCKLE The season five episode “An Eye for Beauty” features a visit to the Maine winery Bluet, which is transforming the

state’s wild blueberries into sparkling wine. Here, I use Maine blueberries to make a classic buckle—I prefer the flavor of the smaller wild blueberries, but regular blueberries work too. For the cake ¼ cup unsalted butter ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 large egg 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ²⁄ 3 cup whole milk 2 cups wild Maine blueberries For the topping ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¹⁄ 8 teaspoon table salt ¼ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed

PHOTOS: STUDIO DYL AN

Preheat the oven to 375° and set a rack to the middle position. Generously grease a 12-cup muffin tin with butter, then sprinkle each well with granulated sugar. Tilt the muffin tin to fully coat with the sugar, then pour out any excess. Using a standing or handheld mixer, beat the 6 tablespoons butter with the brown sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add one egg and beat for one minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the other egg, and beat again. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt. Add a third of the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and stir to combine. Add the potatoes and half the buttermilk. Stir to combine again, scraping down the sides of the bowl as you do. Add the remaining dry ingredients and buttermilk and mix just until smooth.

Preheat oven to 375° and butter a 9x9-inch baking pan. In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the egg and combine. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add to the creamed mixture, alternating with the milk, until well combined. Add the blueberries and fold a few times with a rubber spatula until just combined. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, and cinnamon. Add the butter and combine until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the batter. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Yields 12 servings. RHODE ISLAND-STYLE CLEAR CLAM CHOWDER After a visit to Woodman’s of Essex, birthplace of the fried clam, in season five’s “Only In New England” episode, I put fresh seafood to use in the kitchen using this favorite recipe from Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingstown, Rhode Island.

2 pounds local frozen clam meat, thawed and chopped 7 cups water 6 cups bottled clam juice 3 slices thick-sliced bacon, cut into ¼-inch cubes 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 medium onions, cut into ¼-inch cubes 3 ribs celery, cut into ¼-inch cubes 2 bay leaves 2 pounds Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 1 teaspoon minced fresh dill Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Put the bacon in a 5-to-7-quart pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the butter, onions, celery, and bay leaves, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and clam juice to the pot. Continue cooking over

Rhode Island-Style Clear Clam Chowder

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medium heat until the chowder begins to simmer. If it begins to boil, reduce the heat slightly. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Just before serving, remove the pot from the heat, stir in the clams meat, discard the bay leaves, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with herbs. Serve hot. Yields 8 servings. SPINACH AND RICOTTA DUMPLINGS (MALFATTI) In season five’s “Homegrown” episode, enjoying an Italian-inspired meal with Boston chef Douglass Williams prompted me to head back to the kitchen to make malfatti, a favorite dish in my Italian family. ¼ cup (½ stick) butter ½ cup minced onion 2 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, defrosted, squeezed dry ¾ cup ricotta 2 eggs, beaten ¾ cups grated Parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon fresh black pepper ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ¾ cup to 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for coating hands Melt butter in a frying pan or skillet. Add onion and cook until translucent. Add spinach and cook, stirring occasionally, until moisture is evaporated. Add ricotta, remove from heat, and stir until well mixed, about 3 minutes. Pour into bowl. Add eggs, cheese, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir well. Mix in ¾ cup flour, cover, and chill in refrigerator at least 1 hour, or overnight. Check the dough: If it feels very wet, add the remaining ¼ cup flour. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 45

Spinach and Ricotta Dumplings (Malfatti)

With generously floured hands, roll mixture into balls the size of cherry tomatoes. The rolled balls should have the texture of soft bread dough. Place on a rimmed, parchment-lined baking sheet. (At this point, dumplings can be frozen, then transferred to a zip-top bag.) Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium. Cook the dumplings until they rise to the top, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon and allow them to rest a few minutes before serving. Serve with Bolognese sauce or with butter and Parmesan cheese. For meatless meal, serve with marinara sauce. Makes 6 servings.

2 large yellow onions, sliced crosswise into ¹⁄ 8 -inch-thick rings 1 teaspoon kosher salt 6 tablespoons fresh apple cider, divided 1 sheet good-quality store-bought puff pastry, kept cold 1 medium firm-tart apple, unpeeled, cored and cut into thin slices 3 cups finely grated sharp cheddar In a skillet or sauté pan over medium-low heat, melt the butter, then add the thyme, onions, and salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are

translucent but do not change color, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the cover, raise the heat to medium, and pour in 4 tablespoons of the cider, scraping the pan with a wooden spoon to pick up any browned bits. Cook the liquid down until reduced to a tablespoon or so, about 8 minutes, then add the remaining 2 tablespoons of cider, scraping the bottom once more, and cook until the onions are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375° and set the rack in the second-to-lowest position. Put the chilled pastry on the ungreased baking sheet and roll out to a rectangle about 12 by 15 inches. If the pastry becomes soft or sticky during the process, put it in the freezer for 4 minutes to chill. Using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut the pastry in crisscrossing diagonal lines to form diamondshaped pieces, each about 3 inches wide at the widest point. Top the center of each piece with an apple slice (trim to fit), a small pile of onions, and a sprinkling of cheese. Bake until the cheese is melted and the pastry is puffed and golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to a warmed platter and serve immediately. Makes about 40 pieces.

After following in Julia Child’s footsteps in the season five episode “Back to Our Roots,” I devised this dish in her honor. Apples and caramelized onions are an unbeatable combination, especially when paired with cheddar. Using storebought puff pastry and cooking the onions ahead of time makes this a very simple appetizer that can be assembled and baked right before your party. 2 tablespoons salted butter 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 46 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

Apple, Cheddar, and Caramelized Onion Pastry Bites

PHOTOS: STUDIO DYL AN

APPLE, CHEDDAR, AND CARAMELIZED ONION PASTRY BITES

THE ADVENTURES CONTINUE LOVE WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE? THERE’S EVEN MORE WAITING AT WEEKENDSWITHYANKEE.COM

PHOTOS: KIM KNOX BECKIUS (BEACH); KRISSY O’SHEA (FOOD); MARK FLEMING (J I M S A LGE P O R T R A I T ) ; P U B L I C D O M A I N I M AGE S/ P I X A B AY (M O OSE )

o deeper into the stories you see on Weekends with Yankee with a visit to the companion website, WeekendsWithYankee.com. Packed with videos, articles, and extras, it has everything you need to plan a visit to New England —or just bring a taste of it home, wherever you are. Among the highlights:

TRAVEL IDEAS, such as how to spend a summer weekend in Narragansett, Rhode Island, where

to find the best quiet fall foliage drives in New England, and co-host Richard Wiese’s favorite things to do in Connecticut.

BEHIND-THE-SCENES EXCLUSIVES, like Q&As with Yankee’s foliage expert, photographer Jim Salge, Massachusetts architect Patrick Ahearn, and Vermont winemaker Deirdre Heekin.

Jim Salge

to advice on how and where to go moosespotting in New England.

VIDEOS from all five

RECIPES, including a stovetop version of a classic New England clambake that was inspired by our cookout on Mount Desert Island with three of Portsmouth’s hottest chefs.

seasons of Weekends with Yankee, ranging from engaging sneak peeks to full episodes (for subscribers only).

PLUS, an easy-to-use TIPS FROM YANKEE EDITORS, from co-host Amy Traverso’s picks for the best lobster rolls in Maine

station finder that shows you where to find Weekends with Yankee in your local broadcast and cable TV lineups. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 47

CRAFT SHOW

New England has long been home to makers of beautiful objects for everyday life. Here, Yankee editors share some of their modern-day favorites.

On a chilly New England evening, what could be better than wrapping yourself in light, soft, handwoven wool? Founded in 1992, Swans Island Company made its name with blankets and throws distinguished by their fine weave, subtle colors, and impeccable craftsmanship. Much of the fiber comes from local farms and is custom-spun by New England mills before being hand-dyed and woven by Swans Island artisans into modern-day heirlooms that will last for generations. swansislandcompany.com

go-to for Maine tourmaline, which it transforms into a variety of exquisitely crafted rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and more. Our favorite, for maximum Maine flavor: the sterling silver lobster claw pendant with green tourmaline (representing a lobster’s natural color) or pink tourmaline (a nod to its rosy post-steaming hue). crossjewelers.com

HANDBLOWN GLASSWARE SIMON PEARCE | QUECHEE, VT

Cereal is more fun when an alien spaceship lurks beneath the frosted flakes. At their workshop in southern Maine, Lars and Connie Turin create fine vases, bowls, and other works in clay to suit grownup tastes, but it’s impossible to resist these porcelain bowls with their rollicking designs: aliens, sea adventures, town-andcountry scenes. The colorful sgraffito motifs feel like instant kid classics. turinclayworks.com

You’ll join the ranks of such famous fans as Caroline Kennedy and Sandra Bullock when you bring home Simon Pearce’s sparkling wares, all of it handblown by skilled artisans in company workshops (including Pearce’s original studio, founded in 1981 a historic mill building on the Ottauquechee River). In designing everything from tumblers and pitchers to candlesticks and giftware, Pearce finds inspiration in Vermont’s hills and mountains, countryside, and changing seasons, something that is especially evident in his signature glass evergreens—handblown beauties that are just waiting to reforest your mantel. simonpearce.com

STORY BOWLS TURIN & TURIN CLAYWORKS | YORK, ME

CAST-IRON COOKWARE NEST HOMEWARE | PROVIDENCE, RI

Rhode Island School of Design alum Matt Cavallaro founded Nest Homeware in 2013 and quickly found fans with his cast-iron creations, which have the rugged good looks of cookware forged by ingenious gnomes. Handles are made to look like tree branches, and burnished surfaces glow like the sun. Cavallaro designs every piece, and while he uses an out-of-state foundry, he and his partner, Rue Sakayama, apply the finishing touch in Rhode Island: seasoning the cast iron with flaxseed oil in his workshop oven. nesthomeware.com

MAINE TOURMALINE JEWELRY CROSS JEWELERS | PORTLAND, ME

The history of tourmalines in Maine goes back to 1820, the year it joined the Union and the year that this gem was first discovered in Maine’s western mountains. Tourmaline—which ranges in color from black or white to brilliant shades of pink, green, and blue—is today the state’s official mineral, making it the ideal gift for someone looking to have a little piece of Maine to call their own. Founded in 1908, Cross Jewelers is the

48 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

RECYCLED-SAIL TOTES SEA BAGS | PORTLAND, ME

Headquartered on Portland’s historic Custom House Wharf, Sea Bags makes rugged and stylish totes from a surprising material: old sails. As the company likes to describe it: “Our materials retain the essence of what they once were, where they’ve been and what they’ve done. It’s this previous life that makes each bag unique.” Spinnakers, dinghy sails, racing sails—they all find new purpose as totes, bucket bags, duffels, and other handy accessories. Plus, they come with the eco-friendly bonus of cutting down on material going into landfills (more than 700 tons to date). seabags.com

HANDCRAFTED UTENSILS MEB’S KITCHENWARES | WOODSTOCK, CT

What began as a cabinetmaking business for Meb Boden and her husband, Tom Vaiciulis, became a craftcentered labor of love almost 20 years ago. They shifted to making hand-carved works of art that also stand up to the daily demands of family cooking, including a wealth of ladles, spoons, tongs, salad servers, and other

utensils. As with everything that Meb and Tom design and make, their utensils are carved from sustainably sourced New England hardwood and speak to their love of living simply and in connection with their environment. mebskitchenwares.com

HANDWOVEN DOORMATS MYSTIC KNOTWORK | MYSTIC, CT

Don’t get your twine in a twist—let Mystic Knotwork do it for you. Matt Beaudoin’s team of artisans follow in the tradition of his grandfather, Alton Beaudoin, whose expert knotwork led to the Smithsonian Institution recognizing him as a master of cord and rope tying. Mystic Knotwork turns out a variety of accessories and decor—sailor’s bracelets, wreaths, lanyards, and so on—but we particularly love the nautical-inspired knotted mats. Made of manila rope dyed in on-trend colors or left natural to silver like cedar shingles, they are built to withstand New England weather and decades of boot-scuffing. mysticknotwork.com

HANDBLOWN GLASS FLOATS THE GLASS STATION | WAKEFIELD, RI

The project started simply enough—just something to keep glassblower Eben Horton busy during a slow economy. Inspired by a similar project in Oregon, he began using down time at his Wakefield studio to craft glass balls modeled on Japanese fishing floats. But after he started hiding them on Block Island for others to find, the Glass Float Project took on a life of its own. These days, Horton and his small team make 550 floats per year to squirrel away on the island. “The wonderful thing about this project is that there is a certain mystery that revolves around it,” he has said. “People want answers for everything in life, it seems, but even I do not know how many floats are still waiting to be found.” Fortunately for those unable to join in the hunt, Orton also makes glass floats for sale, in both crystal-clear and brilliantly colored versions. theglassstationstudio.com

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Learn about the classic craft of wooden shipbuilding during our visit to Essex, Massachusetts, on Weekends with Yankee season five.

PH OTOS : LO R I P ED R I C K (2, 5); RU E S A K AYA M A (3); A L L OT H ER S CO U R T E S Y O F S O U RC E

HANDWOVEN BLANKETS SWANS ISLAND COMPANY | NORTHPORT, ME

4 5

S A L ONE

G N I H TT

JUMPING FOR JOY In praise of a weird and wonderful Vermont-bred winter sport

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Watch as co-host Richard Wiese tries his hand at jack jumping on Weekends with Yankee season five.

50 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

PHOTO : OLIVER PARINI

n the face of it, jack jumping sounds like kind of a bad idea: You’re sliding downhill on a single ski, without poles, while balancing on a jury-rigged seat that’s really more like a stool. But with humans being what they are, if there’s snow-covered hill anywhere they’re bound to find a creative way to get down it. The phenomenon of jack jumping goes back to the late 19th century in Vermont’s Green Mountains, when some French-Canadian loggers cobbled together a more efficient way to return to base camp for supper. A few decades later, ski lift operators began adopting this mode of transport in their quest for a faster and more thrilling ride down the mountain after their shift had concluded. Today, Vermont remains the epicenter of the jack jumping universe, which is still admittedly a pretty small place. You won’t find the equipment at the local sporting goods store; instead, in barns and basement workshops across New England, enthusiasts construct their own oneof-a-kind jack jumpers, from thrown-together jalopies to more intricately engineered designs. Every March, a full spectrum of creativity is on display when athletes from around the region compete in the Jack Jumping World Championships at Vermont’s Mount Snow. “Jack jumping is its own crazy sport,” Dani Huckabone, the 2017 women’s world champion, has said. “It takes a special type of person to get on a homemade ski and throw yourself down a mountain.” But they do—and we applaud them for it. —Ian Aldrich

WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 51

Your episode guide to Weekends with Yankee’s latest destinations and discoveries

52 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE

In Massachusetts, we follow in the footsteps of a culinary legend as co-host Amy Traverso and chef Lydia Shire visit Julia Child’s beloved Cambridge market, Savenor’s. Meanwhile, co-host Richard Wiese spends the day with award-winning Connecticut chef Michel Nischan, visiting a hydroponic farm in Hamden before heading back to Nischan’s home to feast on a delicious autumn frittata. Back in the kitchen, Amy shows how to make Apple, Cheddar, and Caramelized Onion Pastry Bites.

EPISODE 2: “COMMON GROUND” Richard goes walking with llamas on a trip to picturesque northwest Connecticut, while Amy heads to Sudbury, Massachusetts, to celebrate fall produce at Siena Farms. Owner Chris Kurth grows crops that inspire the culinary creations of his wife, noted Boston chef Ana Sortun, who shows Amy how to prepare a freshfrom-the-garden meal. Back in the

kitchen, Amy bakes up an inventive treat, Glazed Chocolate Potato Doughnut Muffins.

EPISODE 3: “HOMEGROWN” Amy joins Douglass Williams, chef-owner of Mida in Boston, on a shopping trip for locally stoneground organic flour and, from The Urban Grape, the perfect bottle of wine to accompany the pasta that Douglass will prepare back at his restaurant. Over in Vermont, Richard discovers the quirky winter sport of jack jumping. Back in the kitchen, Amy whips up a favorite family dish, Spinach and Ricotta Dumplings.

EPISODE 4: “ONLY IN NEW ENGLAND” Amy learns about the shipbuilding legacy of Essex, Massachusetts, and makes a stop at Woodman’s of Essex, birthplace of the fried clam. Then we head north to Vermont’s Big Picture Farm, where a husband-and-wife team turns goat milk into awardwinning caramels and farmstead

PHOTO: MARK FLEMING

TUNE IN TO SEASON 5

EPISODE 1: “BACK TO OUR ROOTS”

cheeses. In Connecticut, Richard learns the art of crafting wooden spoons at Meb’s Kitchenwares. Back in the kitchen, Amy showcases fresh seafood with Rhode Island–Style Clear Clam Chowder.

EPISODE 5: “AN EYE FOR BEAUTY” Amy tours Massachusetts’s Tower Hill Botanic Garden and soaks up the beauty of native New England plants in late fall. Heading north, we check out the Maine winery Bluet Winery, which is transforming the state’s iconic wild blueberries into sparkling wine. Finally, Richard treks to New Hampshire to size up the dazzling winter attraction known as Ice Castles. Back in the kitchen, Amy uses Maine blueberries to make a tasty Blueberry Buckle.

EPISODE 6: “OFF THE BEATEN TRACK” In Massachusetts, Richard goes looking for great whites with marine biologist Greg Skomal. Meanwhile, Amy heads to a remote corner of Maine to experience The Lost Kitchen, one of the country’s most sought-after dinner reservations. Then Richard is off to mountainbike the famed Kingdom Trails in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. Back in the kitchen, Amy bakes up Graham Cracker Pie, a recipe from The Lost Kitchen owner Erin French.

EPISODE 7: “LITTLE-KNOWN ADVENTURES” Richard takes an off-road ramble on a dune tour through the Cape Cod National Seashore. From there it’s south to Rhode Island, to discover the story of the century-old Rose Island Lighthouse. Finally, Amy travels to the Maine island of North Haven for a memorable meal at Nebo Lodge, an inn and restaurant that draws guests from around the world. Back in the

kitchen, Amy cooks up an authentic Maine Blueberry Cobbler.

EPISODE 8: “AN EDIBLE TOUR” First stop: Massachusetts, where Richard looks at the colorful tradition of cranberry harvesting. Then, we take you to some of our favorite restaurants in one of New England’s fastest-growing foodie destination, Portland, Maine. Last but not least, it’s off to Greensboro, Vermont, to visit a world-class brewer and an acclaimed cheesemaker. Back in the kitchen, Amy uses classic Vermont ingredients in her Cheddar-Ale Dip.

EPISODE 9: “LABOR OF LOVE” Richard hikes New Hampshire’s White Mountains in the company of “hut croos,” the young people who pack supplies up to the famed rustic lodges. From there, Richard and Amy head to Grafton, Vermont, to see how some of the nation’s best cheddar is made. Finally, we learn how local grains are making a comeback at Vermont’s Elmore Mountain Bread. Back in the kitchen, Amy whips up Vermont Cheese Gougères.

EPISODE 10: “DOWN BY THE SEA” Amy visits the Chatham Bars Inn, a classic Cape Cod destination since 1914, for a farm-to-table dinner using crops from the hotel’s own fields. Meanwhile, Richard heads to Rhode Island for a surfing lesson on Narragansett Bay. Then it’s into the New Hampshire woods to forage mushrooms with Portsmouth chef Evan Mallett. Back in the kitchen, Amy cooks up Roasted Carrots and Herbed Yogurt Sauce.

EPISODE 11: “STEPPING BACK IN TIME” Take a tasty trip back in time at Vermont’s Scott Farm Orchard,

where the apple varieties include some dating back to the 1600s. Next, a trip to New Hampshire shows that old-school farming is very much alive at Coppal House Farm, where draft horses still power much of the work. Finally, we hop aboard the Maine windjammer J. & E. Riggin. Back in the kitchen, Amy bakes delectable Apple Cider Doughnut Muffins.

EPISODE 12: “SEASIDE STORIES” Richard kicks things off with a cruise around Lake Winnipesaukee aboard the oldest floating post office in the U.S. In Maine, lobsterman and photographer Joel Woods shares us a view of deep-sea fishing that few people ever get to see, while Amy and Richard experience a genuine Maine clambake with three of Portland’s hottest chefs. Back in the kitchen, Amy brings the clambake home with a stovetop version of this classic New England meal.

EPISODE 13: “NEW ENGLAND AFTER SUMMER” Amy and Richard trek to the Green Mountain State to visit Allison Hooper, whose Vermont Creamery helped put New England cheeses in the spotlight. Then it’s off to the White Mountains for winter adventures at the Omni Mount Washington Resort. Finally, Yankee editor Mel Allen hits the road to leaf-peep at some autumn vistas along New Hampshire’s Kancamagus Highway. Back in the kitchen, Amy makes a tasty Beet Salad with Crispy Goat Cheese.

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Catch up on all five adventurefilled seasons of our TV show at weekendswithyankee.com. WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE INSIDERS’ GUIDE 53

Weekends with Yankee Insiders' Guide 2021

Articles inside

TUNE IN TO SEASON 5

CRAFT SHOW

THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES

Q&A: ANA SORTUN & CHRIS KURTH

LOCAL FLAVOR

CRUNCH TIME

REMEMBERING JULIA

Q&A: LYDIA SHIRE

Q&A: TJ DOUGLAS

THE ZEN OF PASTA

WINTER WONDERLAND

PORTLAND CALLING

Q&A: LOUISA CONRAD

PEAK PERFECTION

INTO THE WILD

MEET THE CO-HOSTS: AMY TRAVERSO

ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

BEHIND THE SCENES

MEET THE CO-HOSTS: RICHARD WIESE