SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • June 2025

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Celebrating 97 years in the industry

SA jewellery sector faces U.S. trade shock

Jewellery design copying under the spotlight

Diamond testing in the age of lab-grown stones

JCSA roadshows return

Your Defense Against False Natural Diamonds

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INDUSTRY INSIGHTS

• The Kimberley Process moves closer to a broader definition of “conflict diamonds”

• Lipari secures a majority stake in Angola’s Tchitengo Diamond Project

• Jewellex Africa 2025: less than four months to go

TARIFF TURBULENCE

The South African jewellery industry is now facing a new and unexpected challenge: punitive tariffs imposed by the US on certain imported goods

JEWELLERY DESIGN COPYING UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

When does inspiration become imitation and what can jewellers do to protect their work?

DIAMOND TESTING IN THE AGE OF LAB-GROWN STONES

A combination of advanced technology and trained gemmological expertise is often the only path to reliable results

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

This month, we spotlight optical instruments: magnifiers, scopes, optivisors and loupes

MITIGATING RISK: THE CRITICAL ROLE OF INSURANCE

Specialist insurance is more than a safety net –it is a strategic asset. In the jewellery trade, the right cover safeguards reputation, resilience and revenue

JCSA ROADSHOWS RETURN

The Jewellery Council of SA has announced that it will be hosting its national roadshows again for the first time in six years

EDUCATIONAL INSERT

THE KRUGERRAND: A LEGACY OF SOUTH AFRICAN GOLD

The Krugerrand, introduced in 1967, stands as a testament to SA’s rich gold heritage and its significant role in the global gold market

PEARL SHIFT

The evolving landscape of the global pearl market

BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of SA

Jewellery Council of SA update

Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), shares the latest developments from the council’s office

Since bringing the SA Jewellery News (SAJN) magazine in-house at the beginning of February, the support from industry has been phenomenal.

The Jewellery Council has been able to take control of editorial content, production and distribution of the magazine. The strong advertising support is confirmation that managing the magazine internally has been of great value to the industry.

The JCSA is pleased to announce a series of Regional Roadshows taking place in Durban, Cape Town and Johannesburg on 2, 3 and 10 July 2025 respectively. Both members and non-members of the industry will be invited to attend. These events are designed not only to provide valuable insights into current industry developments and council initiatives, but also to create a platform for networking among industry colleagues – something that only in-person gatherings can truly offer.

Attendees will have the opportunity to meet Johan Bezuidenhout, Chairperson of the Jewellery Council and Grant Crosse, Vice-Chairperson, who were both elected in July 2024.

A key focus of the roadshows will be addressing the impact of the Financial Intelligence Centre Act (FICA) on the jewellery sector. As a high-value goods industry, we face challenges in interpreting and complying with these regulations. To support the industry in navigating these complexities, we have invited representatives from the Financial Intelligence Centre (FIC) to join us at the roadshows and engage directly with stakeholders.

In addition to the main roadshow events, the council will be meeting with the Regional Structure Committees in Durban and Cape Town on 2 and 3 July respectively. These committees, which have not met in person for several years due to Covid-19 and financial constraints, were established to address issues specific to their region. We recognise that the challenges faced in Durban may differ from those in Cape Town and we are committed to reigniting these vital discussions to ensure that local issues are addressed appropriately.

These roadshows would not be possible without the generous support of our sponsors. We extend our thanks to:

• Cape Precious Metals.

• Inferno Gold.

• Metal Concentrators.

• Moon Investments.

• Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies (Cape Town).

In these challenging times, their contributions are appreciated and essential to the continued growth and success of our industry, helping businesses across the country to thrive.

Delegates will have the chance to engage with our sponsors prior to the start of each roadshow, exploring their offerings and discovering how their products and services can benefit their businesses.

Please save the dates and keep an eye out for your formal invitation, which will follow shortly. We look forward to seeing you there!

Another key highlight in this year’s jewellery industry calendar is Jewellex Africa 2025 – a premier event on the jewellery industry calendar.

Following our initial announcement, the JCSA made a strategic decision to relocate the event to the Galleria in Kramerville, Sandton, with revised dates of 28 and 29 September 2025.

Why Jewellex Africa matters

Jewellex is more than just a trade show. It is a showcase of the very best South Africa has to offer, from locally manufactured pieces to high-quality imported goods. It is an opportunity to view a comprehensive range of products and services, all under one roof.

However, the value of Jewellex goes beyond commerce. It is a vital platform for building relationships, fostering collaboration and networking with professionals from across the country. Whether you have been in the industry for a long time or are a new entrant, Jewellex provides access to the heart of SA’s jewellery trade.

A highlight of the event will be the Jewellex Business Breakfast, proudly sponsored once again by Rand Refinery, on Sunday, 28 September. This event offers a focused environment for thought leadership, dialogue and valuable connections.

This year, all exhibitors will be on a single level, making it easier for visitors to navigate the space and engage with every exhibitor stand. We are proud to share that approximately 80% of the stands have already been reserved, reflecting strong industry support and enthusiasm.

We extend our sincere thanks to our confirmed sponsors:

• Rand Refinery – sponsor of the Business Breakfast.

• Brinks – lanyard sponsor.

• Metal Concentrators – carrier bag sponsor.

• Cape Precious Metals – registration area sponsor.

Their support plays a crucial role in bringing Jewellex to life and we are grateful for their continued partnership.

Members of the JCSA will be automatically registered as visitors and will receive an email confirmation in due course.

Non-members are invited to register via our online portal and will be subject to a brief vetting process before receiving confirmation.

We encourage all industry stakeholders to diarise 28 and 29 September 2025. With your continued support, we are confident that Jewellex Africa 2025 will be the most impactful and memorable edition yet. We look forward to welcoming you!

For more information about the council, our initiatives or how to get involved, visit our website at: www.jewellery.org.za, call us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail us at: admin@jewellery.org.za.

Editor: Adri Viviers

Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: adriv@jewellery.org.za

Sales Representative and Administrative Manager: Thuli Majola Cell: 074-243-0703

E-mail: thulim@jewellery.org.za

SA Jewellery News is published by: Jewellery Council of South Africa

CEO: Lorna Lloyd Cell: 082-456-5558

E-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za

Executive Assistant to CEO: Elsa da Silva Cell: 082-214-0028

E-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za

The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect those of the owners, affiliated organisations, members, the publisher, or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the content, neither the owners, affiliated organisations, the editor, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any errors, omissions, or any consequences arising therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. © 2025. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without prior written permission from the publisher.

editor's note

As the South African jewellery industry navigates one of its most turbulent trade environments in recent years, this issue of SAJN is more than just a magazine – it’s a mirror of the moment, a source of insight and a call for connection.

The sudden imposition of punitive US trade tariffs has hit local manufacturers, exporters and suppliers hard, threatening not just profits, but livelihoods and long-established businesses. Yet amid the uncertainty, what stands out is the sector’s resilience. In our cover feature, Tariff Turbulence, business leaders share how they’re adapting and calling for urgent, united action from government, industry bodies and global partners. Their message: we need each other more than ever.

In this spirit, we explore other urgent topics – from the fine line between inspiration and imitation in design to the growing need for diamond authentication in an era of lab-grown stones. These aren’t just talking points – they shape consumer trust, reputation and creative freedom.

We also highlight often-overlooked essentials like specialist insurance, a strategic safeguard for everyone from independent retailers to large manufacturers. And we’re pleased to report on the return of the JCSA’s national roadshows this July – events that promise to revive vital conversations and connections across the country.

At SAJN, our mission is to inform, support and connect the trade. We’re not just a publication, but part of the industry’s fabric.

If there’s more you’d like us to cover, please email: adriv@jewellery.org.za. We’d love to hear from you!

Here’s to an industry that rises together. Happy reading!

ON THE COVER

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has a more than 90-year history of diamond grading innovation. From the colorimeter – first introduced in the 1940s – to using artificial intelligence for clarity grading, each new technology enhances the grading process, adding efficiency, consistency and advancing GIA’s consumer protection mission.

• Non Destructive Analysis

• Thermo’s Patented AuDITTM Technology Accurately Confirms the Presence of Gold Plating

• Faster, Easier, & More Accurate than Nitric Acid Testing Methods

• Faster, More Accurate, & Just as Reliable as Fire Assay

• Simultaneous Analysis of All Precious Metals & a Variety of Common Alloys.

ESTABLISHED WHOLESALE JEWELLERY COMPANY HIRING: Full-Time Sales Position

A well-established wholesale jewellery firm based in South Africa is looking for motivated and experienced individuals to join its team in a full-time sales role.

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Lipari secures majority stake in Angola’s Tchitengo Diamond Project

Lipari Mining has acquired a 75% stake in Angola’s Tchitengo Diamond Project, with expectations that the central Tchiuzo kimberlite pipe will produce about 23,1 million carats of rough diamonds over its lifespan, based on a new resource estimate.

The Canadian-based company reports 14,6 million carats of indicated diamonds, confirmed through testing, and 8,5 million carats of inferred resources, supported by geological evidence. The estimate was independently prepared by SA’s Z Star Mineral Resource Consultants.

“This resource estimate is a major milestone in our Angolan growth strategy,” said Lipari CEO Ken Johnson. “With a solid base of historical work, we can now move towards feasibility and unlock the long-term potential of the Tchitengo kimberlite field, where 30 pipes have already been identified.”

A bulk sampling programme will begin in Q3, supported by a new processing plant. Lipari aims to recover over 5 000ct to evaluate market value and will continue exploring nearby kimberlite formations.

Tchitengo is located 19 km north of the Catoca mine, Angola’s largest diamond deposit.

Meanwhile, at its Braúna mine in Brazil, Lipari recovered 25 295ct in Q1, an 84% year-on-year increase.

Jewellex Africa 2025: less than four months to go

The countdown is on, with less than four months to go, and excitement is building up for Jewellex Africa 2025.

This year’s event will take place at the Galleria in Kramerville, Sandton, a sleek, contemporary venue which brings the event’s premium positioning to life. This strategic move by the Jewellex Committee marks a significant step forward in the show’s evolution, offering more space, enhanced flexibility and a cohesive layout, with all exhibitors now housed on a single level. This change also comes with new dates: 28-29 September 2025.

With its track record of hosting top-tier events, the Galleria is the perfect backdrop for Jewellex’s next chapter. Expect refined ambience, improved exhibitor visibility and a vibrant energy that matches the innovation and excellence of the jewellery industry.

The company generated US$3,7 million from the sale of 22 524ct, averaging US$163 per carat, including a standout 71,07ct rough. Inventory at the quarter’s end totalled 23 307ct.

Kimberley Process moves closer to broader definition of “conflict diamonds”

After years of calls to modernise the definition of “conflict diamonds”, the World Diamond Council (WDC) has announced progress towards reaching a consensus on updated terminology.

Currently, the term only applies to diamonds used by rebel groups to finance conflicts, a definition many say is outdated. Over time, several Kimberley Process (KP) member states have advocated a broader scope that will also address issues such as widespread violence, forced and child labour and human rights violations.

One of the main hurdles to revising the definition has been the need for unanimous agreement among

all member nations, which has proven difficult in the past.

However, during the KP intersessional meeting held in Dubai from 12-16 May this year, the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA), which includes 15 members and five observers, put forward new language aimed at expanding the definition.

WDC President Feriel Zerouki said the ADPA’s proposal helped shift discussions from a narrow focus on rebel groups to a broader inclusion of armed actors and individuals or entities sanctioned by the UN Security Council. She noted that this move helped bring renewed engagement from various stakeholders.

According to Zerouki, most KP participants responded positively to the proposed language and expressed a shared commitment to pushing the process forward. KP Chairperson Ahmed Bin Sulayem also acknowledged the progress, saying the ADPA’s contribution had given new momentum to the ongoing dialogue. While full consensus has yet to be reached, both leaders emphasised that significant strides were being made.

In addition, Zerouki reported that the WDC had made substantial headway in its reform agenda. Nearly all key objectives have been achieved, including the completion of a core document aimed at streamlining the certification process.

Tariff turbulence: SA jewellery sector faces US trade shock

The South African jewellery industry, which has long been a vital contributor to the country’s economy, is now facing a new and unexpected challenge: punitive tariffs imposed by the USA on certain imported goods

For manufacturers like Richline SA, the impact of the punitive tariffs imposed by the USA on certain imported goods has been swift and severe.

Johan Bezuidenhout, MD of Richline SA, underscores the crucial importance of the American market to the organisation’s business. “We’re owned by a US company and everything we produce is tailored for the US market. This makes the situation incredibly significant for us,” he explained. “We export 100% of what we produce for the export market to the USA.”

This heavy reliance on the US market means that any disruption in trade relationships has farreaching consequences, not only for Richline, but also for SA’s broader jewellery sector, including component suppliers, designers and skilled labourers.

The tariffs, which have increased the cost of South African jewellery imports to the USA, have already

triggered significant operational changes. “All current orders have been placed on hold,” confirms Bezuidenhout. “To manage costs during this uncertain period, we’ve implemented a short-time work strategy for May and June for export orders.”

Cape Town-based Oro Chains, a manufacturer of gold chains and bracelets for wholesale US customers, has also been hit hard. Despite enjoying African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) eligibility, the company saw its US customers halt offtake immediately following the tariff announcement. “We assumed that we’d enjoy tariff-free access under AGOA until at least its scheduled expiry in September 2025,” notes Robert Raad, Financial Manager of Oro Chains. “This sudden change has led us to suspend production and cease fine gold procurement since early April.”

The knock-on effects have extended beyond Oro Chains, impacting supporting industries

such as local refineries and gold suppliers. “Pivoting to new customers isn’t simple,” adds Raad. “Our base is specific, longstanding and built on years of trust and quality. Expanding into new jurisdictions comes with complex compliance and trade barriers.”

Another company severely impacted is Nebü Gold, a Cape Town-based luxury jewellery manufacturer whose exports to the USA represent 99% of its total international sales. “The new tariffs have posed an existential threat to our business,” says Helen Viljoen, founder and CEO of the company. “We had about 3 kg in production when the tariffs hit and the only way of avoiding order cancellations was by absorbing the 10% tariff ourselves, cutting already slim profit margins by 60%.”

Viljoen notes that the highpurity gold used in Nebü’s products already carries a high base cost, making even small tariffs untenable. “We’ve been forced to seek out US-based manufacturers and break longstanding relationships with local suppliers like Metal Concentrators. There’s no certainty that we’ll find manufacturers abroad who can replicate our quality,” she says.

Exploring new markets has proven challenging for Nebü, as alternatives like Canada, the UK, the EU and the UAE present far smaller consumer bases and various compliance hurdles. “None of these markets comes close to the volume or scale of the USA,” explains Viljoen. “Our only real option now is to absorb most of the tariff and pass on a fraction to customers, who’re already pushing back. We’ve seen a clear slowdown in sales.”

This is not just a corporate concern. Richline SA employs over 100 staff locally and Oro Chains is similarly rooted in community development. Oro’s mostly female, PDI-background workforce not only contributes to the business’s resilience, but supports extended families. The company also funds education and basic needs for disadvantaged youth in Cape Town’s informal settlements.

While the situation is dire, it is not without avenues for support. The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is actively advocating solutions that could help alleviate the burden on local manufacturers. The council is calling on the South African government to engage urgently with US counterparts to negotiate a reduction in tariffs and secure more favourable terms for the sector for the future. As an industry body representing the interests of local businesses, the JCSA is working closely with both government officials and international partners to explore every potential avenue for relief.

In addition, the JCSA is helping businesses diversify into other markets. Although shifting to markets like Europe, Asia or the Middle East presents new challenges, such as certification requirements and adjustments to product specifications, the council’s ongoing initiatives aim to provide manufacturers with the resources and industry connections they need to expand their reach.

“While the immediate challenge is focused on the US tariffs, we believe it’s critical to explore alternative export destinations to lessen the industry’s dependence on a single market,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. “We’re committed to facilitating those connections and ensuring that our members have the support they need to pivot where possible.”

Still, industry leaders stress that diplomacy is key. Oro Chains has urged government to send a targeted delegation

“There’s a lot at stake, but we’re committed to working together with industry bodies, government and our international partners to find a solution.”

of knowledgeable South African business leaders, including representatives from Rand Refinery, Richline, Metal Concentrators and Oro Chains itself, to meet with US trade officials. “We need to make a compelling case for the inclusion of precious metal jewellery under the same nil-tariff regime currently extended to commodities like gold bullion and coal,” stresses Raad.

Viljoen echoes the call for urgent engagement. “The South African government needs to come to the party,” she says. “Exports to the USA account for about 7% of our GDP, while the US economy hardly feels the difference. Without this market, not just jewellery, but several industries face shutdowns and mass job losses.”

As the months progress, the jewellery sector faces a pivotal moment. If the tariffs remain in place, companies like Richline, Oro Chains and Nebü Gold may be forced to further scale down operations or pivot to less profitable markets, potentially reversing years of growth and recovery since the economic downturns and the Covid-19 pandemic.

However, there is still room for optimism. The JCSA’s ongoing efforts to diversify export markets, along with discussions between the South African government and international trade partners, could pave the way for a more resilient industry.

“We remain hopeful, but we’re preparing for a very challenging and uncertain future,” says Bezuidenhout. “There’s a lot at stake, but we’re committed to working together with industry bodies, government and our international partners to find a solution.”

(Above): Johan Bezuidenhout, MD of Richline SA.

Remembering Jenna Clifford: a legacy of beauty and purpose

It is with deep sadness and immense respect that we honour the life and legacy of one of South Africa’s most renowned jewellery designers, Jenna Clifford, who passed away peacefully on 20 May 2025, surrounded by her family. Her loss will be felt not only by her family, friends and clients but also by the entire jewellery industry, both locally and abroad.

Jenna Clifford was more than a jeweller, she was a creative force, an entrepreneur, a mentor and an advocate for empowerment through beauty and selfexpression. Her work transcended adornment, becoming a means to connect, inspire and uplift. Over the course of more than three decades, she established herself as a distinctive voice in South African design, one defined by authenticity, craftsmanship and unwavering integrity.

Jenna Clifford entered the world of jewellery design in the early 1990s, following a career in marketing and business. Despite lacking formal training in goldsmithing or gemmology at the time, she was fuelled by an unrelenting passion for artistry and personal expression. This passion led her to build what would become the renowned Jenna Clifford brand, a household name associated with custom-designed fine jewellery and personal storytelling through bespoke pieces.

In 1992, she opened her first design studio from her home, working closely with clients to

Jenna Clifford leaves behind a remarkable legacy as a pioneering South African jewellery designer whose work celebrated meaning, beauty and empowerment.

create one-of-a-kind pieces that carried deep personal meaning. Her philosophy was grounded in the belief that jewellery should not only reflect beauty but also commemorate the milestones, values and connections that shape a person’s life. This deeply human approach quickly set her apart in a competitive industry and garnered a loyal clientele.

Her official design headquarters, established in Morningside, Johannesburg, would go on to become a creative hub, drawing clients from across the globe and mentoring a

new generation of South African designers. Jenna Clifford’s pieces became recognisable for their fusion of classic elegance and bold individuality, each one a unique narrative rendered in precious metals and gemstones.

Throughout her career, Clifford was a committed advocate for women’s empowerment, particularly in the creative and business sectors. She championed ethical business practices and was outspoken about the need for greater inclusivity and social responsibility in the jewellery industry.

She frequently used her platform to support young entrepreneurs, designers and artisans, mentoring those who, like her, sought to challenge convention and forge their own paths. Her belief in the inherent potential of others was not just a philosophy but a way of life. Countless individuals credit their growth and confidence to her encouragement, wisdom and generosity of spirit.

Her commitment to empowerment extended beyond the studio and showroom. She engaged with community upliftment projects and charitable initiatives, often using her brand and voice to raise awareness around social issues, women’s rights and education.

Clifford’s artistic philosophy was rooted in emotion and meaning. Whether designing engagement rings, heirloom pieces or limitededition collections, she approached each project as a deeply personal collaboration. Her distinctive style, often characterised by ornate detailing, bold stone choices, and timeless elegance, resonated with a clientele who sought more than decoration. For them, Jenna Clifford’s jewellery offered identity and legacy.

In a statement issued by her family following her passing, her daughters Shayna, Chanelle and Summer wrote: “Our mom’s magnificent jewellery is a reflection of her beautiful heart and soul, her passion, creativity and her mission to connect people through beautiful, meaningful creations… We are dedicated to building on mom’s solid foundations and to continue the remarkable Jenna Clifford story.”

Jenna Clifford leaves behind a formidable legacy: a pioneering brand synonymous with quality

Her charisma was matched by her humility, her ambition by her compassion. She uplifted others effortlessly and found joy in sharing her light.

A personal reflection

and emotion and a loyal following who wear her creations as treasured symbols. Most of all, she leaves behind a family and team committed to honouring her memory by continuing her life’s work with passion and dedication.

“She touched so many lives with her kindness, her unstinting generosity of spirit and her steadfast belief in the transformative and redeeming power of love,” her daughters wrote.

As the industry mourns her loss, we also celebrate her remarkable contributions and enduring influence. The sparkle of her vision will live on in every piece created under her name and in every designer, artisan and client she inspired along the way.

On behalf of SA Jewellery News, we extend our heartfelt condolences to her family, her friends, her team and all who had the privilege of knowing and working with her. Jenna Clifford was, and will remain, one of South Africa’s most luminous design voices. Her memory is etched not only in precious metal and stone, but in the hearts of all who knew her.

As editor of SA Jewellery News, I have had the privilege of interviewing many luminaries in our industry. Yet I will never forget my first interview for this magazine 20 years ago, it was with Jenna Clifford. I was new to the industry and the interview came unexpectedly when the then-editor was unwell. As a newcomer, I was understandably nervous. But Jenna received me with kindness, grace and patience. She took the time to answer my questions thoughtfully, never once making me feel inexperienced. Her warmth during that encounter left a lasting impression.

This memory reflects a broader truth that so many in our industry echo: that beyond her extraordinary talent, Jenna Clifford was profoundly human. Her charisma was matched by her humility, her ambition by her compassion. She uplifted others effortlessly and found joy in sharing her light.

When does inspiration become imitation and what can jewellers do to protect their work?

Jewellery design copying under the spotlight

Earlier this year, Anna Rosholt Jewellery Design noticed something troubling in the collections of a renowned South African lifestyle retailer. The pieces in question were not just similar, but almost identical to Rosholt’s own baobab charm, a design she had developed with intention and care.

“We had a call. They admitted it. They apologised. We chose not to post. We believed it was a one-time mistake,” Rosholt shared in a recent public statement. However, when three more similar charms appeared in the same retailer’s stores last month, the Cape Townbased jewellery designer decided to speak out.

“This isn’t inspiration. It’s replication,” she said.

Her statement struck a chord across social media, sparking widespread support and reigniting a conversation that has long been simmering beneath the surface of SA’s jewellery industry: what legal protection do local jewellers have against design theft? And what more can be done to hold larger brands accountable?

“As this conversation unfolds, many in the jewellery trade are calling for more robust systems to protect original work, especially in an age when ideas can be copied and distributed at lightning speed.”

A grey area of the law

South African law does offer some protection for jewellery designers, but it is not always straightforward.

Designs can be protected under the Designs Act 195 of 1993, provided they are registered as either aesthetic designs (judged by eye and original in appearance) or functional designs (which serve a utilitarian purpose). However, the process of registering a design requires forethought, time and money –resources that many small businesses do not always have upfront.

“Unregistered designs don’t have automatic protection under our Designs Act,” explains an intellectual property lawyer familiar with the jewellery trade. “You need to proactively register the design within six months of first disclosure to the public – something most designers don’t realise until it’s too late.”

There is also copyright law, which may protect certain jewellery pieces if they qualify as “works of art” under the Copyright Act. However, this is limited and typically does not extend to mass-produced items unless they have distinct artistic merit.

The impact on small businesses

For independent jewellers like Rosholt, the damage goes beyond financial.

“Each AR piece starts with a story, a sketch and hours of thoughtful design,” she says. “Being copied by a big brand is devastating.”

She is not alone. Dozens of local designers have faced similar frustrations, but choose not to speak up, either for fear of backlash or because pursuing legal action is simply out of reach. Yet, when these instances go unchallenged, it sets a dangerous precedent.

Rosholt’s decision to call out the well-known and popular retailer marks a turning point in the industry’s willingness to challenge this behaviour publicly. “Big brands: you can do better. Please choose to!” she urges.

A call for stronger protections

As this conversation unfolds, many in the jewellery trade are calling for more robust systems to protect original work, especially in an age when ideas can be copied and distributed at lightning speed.

This leaves many designers vulnerable, especially when their work is subtly altered or “inspired” by corporate brands which have the means to mass-manufacture and distribute similar-looking pieces.

Here are some practical steps designers can take to protect themselves:

• Register your designs early: Even one or two key pieces can be worth the investment.

• Keep records of your design process: From sketches to prototypes, these can help support a claim of originality if a dispute arises.

• Use non-disclosure agreements when sharing designs with suppliers or collaborators.

• Join industry bodies like the Jewellery Council of SA, which offer resources, networking and support.

It is also time for big brands to reflect on their sourcing and design practices and to engage with independent creatives in more ethical ways. “When people speak up, it works. That’s how we build a system which is more honest, responsible and better for everyone,” notes Rosholt.

• To explore Anna Rosholt Jewellery Design’s collections, visit: https://annarosholt.com/ collections/hoop-charms.

Have you had your designs copied? We would like to hear your story. E-mail the SAJN editor at: adriv@jewellery.org.za.

Anna Rosholt's baobab charm
Retailer's charm

Protect Your Customers and Your Business

One of the most pressing challenges facing the diamond industry is the risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds. It is a problem that presents a very significant danger to consumer trust in the trade and one that GIA has been monitoring closely.

The Challenge of Distinguishing LaboratoryGrown from Natural Diamonds

As we know, it has become easier than ever for laboratory-grown diamonds to contaminate the natural diamond supply chain. In recent years, GIA encountered instances of laboratorygrown diamonds inscribed with report numbers belonging to natural diamonds. These laboratory-grown diamonds had 4Cs grades and measurements closely resembling those listed on accompanying natural diamond reports.

These occurrences demonstrate the need for fast, reliable ways to identify laboratory-grown diamonds and separate them from natural diamonds throughout the industry.

You deserve to know what you are selling – to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

It is with trade and consumer protection in mind that GIA, the most trusted organization in diamond research and diamond grading, offers innovative diamond detection services and technology, like the GIA iD100 ®

GIA iD100®: Your Defense Against False Natural Diamonds

Natural diamond detection is the trade's most effective defense against this looming threat. And

the GIA iD100® offers that defense with speed and accuracy – all backed by GIA's unrivaled reputation.

In under two seconds, the GIA iD100 ® can identify a diamond as natural with 100% accuracy. It is a small, yet powerful desktop instrument that makes diamond testing convenient. Test both loose and mounted diamonds from the convenience of your own store and use it for demonstrations to increase client confidence.

Few other diamond detection machines can match the speed and precision of the GIA iD100 ® To protect your business reputation, this speed, accuracy, and convenience are crucial.

Learn More

Diamond testing in the age of lab-grown stones

The rise of synthetic and treated stones has created new challenges for diamond authentication. Machines alone cannot always deliver the certainty required in today’s high-stakes market. A combination of advanced technology and trained gemmological expertise is often the only path to reliable results

SAJN recently visited the premier diamond grading laboratory of EGL SA for a tour of its state-of-the-art facilities, seeking a deeper understanding of the complexities involved in diamond testing. While technology has advanced, it quickly became clear that accurate diamond identification is far more intricate than simply scanning a stone over the counter with a hand-held machine. The process often requires a combination of advanced equipment and expert knowledge to ensure authenticity.

In a world where technology seems to offer a solution to every challenge, the jewellery trade is under increasing pressure to keep up, especially when it comes to distinguishing natural

diamonds from their lab-grown or simulant counterparts. While hand-held diamond testers and mid-range machines have become commonplace in many jewellery stores, our visit to the EGL SA laboratory served as a powerful reminder that true verification requires more than just a machine – it requires expertise, experience and advanced infrastructure.

Walking through the EGL laboratory, we noted that not only is the scale of equipment remarkable and worth millions of rands, but the meticulous processes followed to determine the true nature of each gemstone are equally impressive. The lab is equipped to test gemstones using advanced instruments such as Fourier Transform

Infrared and Visible to NearInfrared spectrometers, Raman spectroscopy and UV imaging systems, together with traditional instruments like polariscopes, microscopes, long- and shortwave UV lamps. Yet even with all this sophisticated technology, human insight and knowledge remain essential.

“There are many testers on the market, but they all have limitations. They’ve been designed to test a specific property in order to answer a specific question. It’s essential for anyone using these instruments to understand what property they’re testing for and what the limitations are for the device they’re using,” explains Craig Thomas, EGL SA’s Chief Gemmologist, who has over 20 years’ experience. “For example, some gems can pass as natural or be mistaken for synthetic using basic equipment. It takes a combination of sophisticated instruments and gemmological expertise to identify them correctly.”

This is where EGL’s unique advantage lies: it is not just the machines, but the people behind them. Depending on what the client requires, stones submitted undergo rigorous testing and manual inspection by trained professionals. “The goal isn’t just to classify a diamond,” says Brenda Rosenthal, owner of EGL SA. “It’s to instil confidence. When a consumer buys a diamond that’s been tested and graded here, they’re buying peace of mind.”

This matters now more than ever. The lab-grown diamond market is booming, with a global market value of over US$12 billion in 2022, expected to exceed US$18 billion by 2027.

Simultaneously, the line between lab-grown and natural diamonds is increasingly difficult to detect

“A single misidentification can damage a retailer’s reputation and undermine consumer confidence in the entire trade.”

without advanced screening. As a result, consumer trust is at risk, especially in markets where counterfeit or misrepresented stones can still find their way into the supply chain. The pricing discrepancy between natural and lab-grown diamonds further underscores the importance of accurate identification, as the cost difference can be significant and misclassification could result in considerable financial loss or reputational damage.

Many industry bodies, including the World Jewellery Confederation and the Jewellery Council of SA, have long advocated transparency in diamond sales. However, transparency can only exist where there is certainty – and certainty, it seems, requires more than a desktop gadget.

While it is tempting for jewellers to rely on quick solutions, Thomas cautions against blind faith in basic testers. “They can be useful as a first step, but they’re not foolproof. A single

misidentification can damage a retailer’s reputation and undermine consumer confidence in the entire trade.”

Rosenthal agrees. “We’ve had many clients come in with stones that were incorrectly classified. They bought a machine hoping it would give them clarity, but without the right knowledge, they were still in the dark.”

The takeaway? While technology has made diamond testing more accessible, the reality remains complex. For jewellers who truly want to guarantee the authenticity of what they sell, partnering with a certified lab like EGL SA is not only advisable, but essential.

As consumer awareness grows and the market becomes more saturated with alternative stones, the industry’s credibility depends on its ability to adapt by investing not only in tools, but in trust.

(Above): Brenda Rosenthal, owner of E.G.L. SA, with gemmologist Craig Thomas.

Tools of the trade

In the intricate world of jewellery-making, precision is paramount. Whether you are setting diamonds, engraving delicate designs or conducting detailed inspections, the right optical instruments can significantly enhance your craftsmanship.

Jeweller’s loupe: the classic choice

The jeweller’s loupe remains a staple for professionals seeking portability and direct magnification. The Triplet 10x Hexagonal Loupe is renowned for its clarity and durability. Its 20,5 mm lens provides a sharp 10x magnification, ideal for inspecting gemstones and intricate details.

Optivisor: hands-free magnification

For tasks requiring both hands, the Optivisor headband magnifier is invaluable. Available in various magnifications (1,75x to 3,5x), it offers comfort and adjustability,

As the jewellery industry continues to evolve, staying ahead of the curve means embracing the latest tools, technologies and machinery that enhance both creativity and efficiency. This month, we spotlight optical instruments: magnifiers, scopes, optivisors and loupes.

making it perfect for tasks like engraving or fine soldering.

Articulated Stereo Microscope: precision in setting and engraving

The Articulated Stereo Microscope provides high magnification with depth perception, essential for detailed work. Its flexible arm allows precise positioning, making it a favourite among jewellers for tasks such as gemstone-setting and engraving.

Digital Microscope: a modern inspection tool

The Digital Microscope offers high magnification and the convenience of a built-in screen. This feature allows jewellers to inspect items closely and even share the view with clients, enhancing the customer experience.

Illuminated Magnifier Lamp: optimal lighting and clarity Proper lighting is crucial for detailed work. The Illuminated

Magnifier Lamp features a 120 mm lens with adjustable diopters (3, 5 or 8) and a daylight LED globe. This combination ensures clear visibility and reduces eye strain during prolonged use.

LED Grading and Working Lamp: versatility in lighting

For tasks such as gemstone grading, the LED Grading and Working Lamp offers three light colours and adjustable brightness. This versatility ensures accurate colour assessment and reduces glare, making it an essential tool for gemmologists and jewellers alike.

Investing in quality optical instruments is crucial for jewellers aiming for precision and excellence. Cape Tools provides a range of products designed to meet the diverse needs of the jewellery industry, ensuring that professionals have the right tools to enhance their craftsmanship.

Gem & Jewel Insurance.

A pproach risk with purpose.

The Gem & Jewel product provides a tailormade sustainable solution for jewellery related businesses that navigate the changing jewellery industry, market conditions and challenges exacerbated by crime and global economic influences.

Working with the jewellery industry requires a detailed understanding of its unique requirements and with years of experience in developing niche insurance products, Bryte is one of South Africa’s leaders in providing cover for retail, wholesale and manufacturing jewellers, gem cutters and setters, watch importers, coin dealers, tender houses and dealers, goldsmiths, diamond and metal processors and refiners.

Just as we know that one size does not fit all, we also appreciate that standard commercial cover is the wrong fit for these customers.

Contact us so we can show you what type of specialist cover the jewellery industry has enjoyed for over 24 years.

Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division is excited to offer you our Gem & Jewel cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council. Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

Specialist insurance is more than a safety net – it is a strategic asset. In the jewellery trade, the right cover safeguards reputation, resilience and revenue

In an industry built on highvalue inventory, trust and reputation, the importance of robust insurance coverage cannot be overstated. Yet, despite the inherent risks associated with dealing in precious metals, gemstones and finished jewellery, many businesses in the trade, from manufacturers and wholesalers to retailers and workshop operators, remain underinsured or unaware of the full spectrum of cover available to them.

Mitigating risk: the critical role of insurance

Whether you are a large-scale manufacturer, an independent retailer or a bespoke designer, insurance should be seen not merely as a compliance obligation, but as a strategic safeguard against potentially devastating losses.

The jewellery industry faces a distinct set of risks. These include:

• Theft and armed robbery, especially in retail environments or during transit.

• Loss or damage to stock during shipping, whether local or international.

• Workshop-specific risks, including damage to tools, machinery and customers’

goods left for repair.

• Employee dishonesty, which can result in significant stock losses.

• Liability exposures, including defective products or injuries occurring on your premises.

• Cyberthreats, increasingly relevant in the digital age where customer and transactional data are targets for hackers.

Each of these risks can cripple a business, particularly small to medium enterprises (SMEs), without the correct cover in place.

Generic commercial insurance policies rarely offer adequate protection for jewellery

businesses. Jewellery professionals require cover that is tailored specifically to the nuances of the trade. This may include:

• Block policies that provide comprehensive cover for stock (including customers’ goods), transit, theft and fire.

• Goods-in-transit cover, essential for businesses involved in shipping items, especially if outsourcing to couriers or logistics providers.

• Jeweller’s block insurance, a specialised policy designed for those in the business of making, selling or repairing jewellery.

• Valuation errors and omissions cover, relevant for appraisers and valuators.

• Business interruption insurance, which can help sustain cash flow following a claim event, such as a fire or burglary.

It is important for professionals to work with brokers who understand the industry’s specific exposures and can source or structure cover from insurers who cater to the jewellery sector.

One of the most common and costly mistakes in the trade is underinsurance. Many businesses underestimate the replacement cost of their inventory or equipment, leading to partial payouts in the event of a claim. Given the volatility in metal and gemstone prices, regular reassessments of asset values are essential.

Maintaining updated inventories, photographic records and secure valuation documentation will strengthen your position during the claims process and reduce the risk of disputes.

While insurance provides financial protection, prevention remains the first line of defence. Jewellery professionals should actively implement:

• Physical security measures: CCTV, alarm systems, safes and access controls.

• Employee vetting processes: Background checks and clear policies on handling stock.

• Cybersecurity protocols: Secure payment systems, encrypted data storage, and staff training.

• Training and compliance: Especially during cash handling, after-hours security and emergency protocols.

Demonstrating a proactive approach to risk management not only reduces your exposure, but can also result in more favourable insurance premiums.

Insurance should be viewed not as a grudge purchase, but as an indispensable tool for protecting your livelihood, employees and reputation. In an unpredictable environment, where a single incident can derail years of hard work, appropriate insurance cover can mean the difference between recovery and ruin.

Now is the time to review your current policies, reassess your risks and ensure that you are not only insured, but adequately insured.

“In an unpredictable environment, where a single incident can derail years of hard work, appropriate insurance cover can mean the difference between recovery and ruin.“

JCSA roadshows return

The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) has announced that it will be hosting its national roadshows again for the first time in six years. These highly anticipated events will be taking place in Durban on

Johan Bezuidenhout and strategic updates from the council. Attendees can look forward to discussions on pressing industry matters, such as compliance and regulatory obligations and recent developments in local

Did you know?

The "V" in "BVLGARI" is not a misspelling, but a conscious decision to blend the founder's Greek origins with the brand's Roman identity, using the historical Latin alphabet for a distinctive and classic look.

The iconic Trinity ring, designed by Louis Cartier in 1924, features three interlocking bands of white, yellow, and rose gold. These golds are said to symbolise friendship (white), fidelity (yellow) and love (rose).

Both Apple and Samsung watches have safety features that can detect hard falls or severe car crashes. If the user is unresponsive, the watch can automatically call emergency services and notify emergency contacts.

Alexandrite was first discovered in the 1830s in the Ural mountains of Russia and is said to have been named after the future Tsar Alexander II. Its red and green colours coincidentally mirrored the colours of Imperial Russia, making it particularly prized there.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, decorative buttons were highly fashionable, and sometimes these intricate items were repurposed or specifically crafted as jewellery. Brooches, earrings and even bracelets were made from ornate metal or enamel buttons.

In April 2025, South African singer Tyla was announced as Pandora's newest global brand ambassador. This partnership is quite significant, as it sees a rising South African star aligning with a major international jewellery brand.

Many gemstones exhibit pleochroism. This optical phenomenon causes a gemstone to display different colours when viewed from different angles due to the way light interacts with its crystal structure. For example, tanzanite can appear blue, violet or even burgundy, depending on the viewing angle and light.

COLORED STONES UNEARTHED DIAMOND REFLECTIONS

Gems Recovered From Sedimentary Rocks

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

(DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also

Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Transient Deposits. Colluvial deposits result from shortdistance transport of material by gravity action downslope from the original gem host rock. These deposits can form at the base of steep hillsides, for example. Alluvial deposits involve longer-distance transport mainly by water. The most significant alluvial deposits are located along bends in rivers, natural hollows, breaks in the slope of hillsides, or at the base of an escarpment or other natural barrier, and involve short- or long-distance transport of minerals by moving water. Because the transport ability varies approximately as the square of the velocity, the speed of the moving water plays an important role in deposit formation and the travel distance from the original source of the placer minerals. Thus, when the water velocity decreases, heavy minerals are deposited more quickly than the light ones. Placers can form whenever and wherever the water velocity remains below that required to transport the gems further, including bends in meandering streams, at the base of waterfalls, behind obstacles, and along eroded or hollowed-out depressions at the base of riverbeds. Over time, stream flow can remove larger and lighter minerals, thereby concentrating the heavier

Oceaniclithosphere

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

minerals. During transport by moving water, mineral crystals or rock fragments can become abraded and waterworn. Terminal Deposits. Beach or delta deposits form along the edge of water bodies by wave action (such as sand deposits). Continent shelf deposits occur further offshore in shallow coastal environments. Examples of the latter include diamond deposits along the southern coast of South Africa and Namibia. Each of these three types of placer gem deposits can reside long enough to be termed a “paleoplacer”, or an ancient sediment deposit that has been buried and/or lithified to rock. Examples include the extensive Witwatersrand in Southern Africa, and the Roraima Supergroup in northern South America, which are both known to host significant amounts of diamonds and gold, and the extensive sapphire and colored stone alluvial deposits at Ilakaka, Madagascar. It should also be mentioned that in many places there are no longer any geological signs of the ancient river systems that deposited the gem gravels. The mining of gems from natural caves is another type of occurrence that does not fit into the above classification, with the best example being the recovery of ruby and spinel from caves found in marbles. In this case,

Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).

Figure 8. Local people washing for sapphires in 2010 near the village of Ambalavy 50 km southwest of Ilakaka in south-central Madagascar. Photo by Vincent Pardieu.

caves act as a trap for gem minerals weathered out of the marbles during karstic processes forming the caves, as well as gem-bearing sediments that may be introduced from surface-reaching openings in the cave systems.

Examples of Important Alluvial Gem Deposits

and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).

Montepuez Ruby Deposit in Mozambique. The regional geology of the countries located along the east and south-east portions of Africa is dominated by the rocks of the East African orogeny. Ruby deposits are hosted in the Montepuez metamorphic complex, consisting of Mesoproterozoic to Neoproterozoic granitic to amphibolitic orthogneisses (Boyd et al., 2010). Rubies are mined from both the host metamorphic rocks and in predominantly eluvial and colluvial type deposits derived from them. In this area, the primary ruby deposits are curiously easier to mine than secondary deposits because the metamorphic rocks have weathered predominantly to clays (Vertriest and Saeseaw, 2019).

region include extensive buried paleoplacers of the Triassic Isalo sandstones (figure 8). These alluvial deposits have concentrated highly productive gem-bearing, poorly consolidated terraces that contain cobble- to pebble-sized rounded lithic fragments of laterite, sandstone, quartzite, and schist. They are exploited using shafts extending down about 20 m, and sometimes in open pits which target potholes or meanders in current or former rivers (Rakontondrazafy et al., 2008).

bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).

Gem Occurrences in Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka is underlain by Archean metamorphic to Proterozoic migmatites and granitoid rocks. This assemblage is overlain by loosely consolidated alluvial sediments which have accumulated over millions of years. Concentrated deposits of many types of colored gemstones derived from the basement rocks occur in sediments in various areas of the central and southern portions of the island (Dissanayake and Rupasinghe, 1993; Gunatilaka, 2007) (figure 9)

Ilakaka Sapphire Deposit in Madagascar. Secondary deposits of sapphire and other gem minerals in the Ilakaka

The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Historical Diamond Deposits in Brazil. Alluvial diamonds in Brazil are recovered from rivers and streams or in nearby unconsolidated sediments. The most productive of regions in Brazil have been the states of Minas Gerais, Bahia, and Mato Grosso. These deposits are part of a complex network of alluvial, colluvial, and eluvial deposits which vary in time and space. Compositionally, deposits are a mix of clay to sand-sized sediments, containing rounded to angular pebbles and cobbles from the surrounding bedrock including kimberlites and diamondiferous conglomerates (Farrar, 2009; Svisero et al., 2017).

Temp. (°C)

Oceaniclithosphere

Solidus of carbonated MORB Carb. melting

Carbonated slab melting Hydrous uid

DHMS

(°C)

9.

Breakdown of hydrous phases

Alluvial Diamond Deposits Along the Vaal and Orange Rivers, and Related Continental Shelf Marine Deposits Along the Atlantic Coast of Southern Africa. Diamonds from restricted kimberlite sources in the interior of Southern Africa were transported westward so that they are found along the Vaal and Orange River channels as well as underwater along an extended length of the continental shelf (Maree, 1987; Jacob et al., 1999; Moore and Moore, 2004; Wilson et al., 2006). The coastal diamond deposits of Namibia and South Africa are host to excellent gem-quality diamonds because most of the inferior stones would have been lost due to comminution during transport (Sutherland, 1982; Gurney et al., 1991; Corbett and Burrell, 2001; Bluck et al., 2005; Nakashole et al., 2018; Phillips et al., 2018; Jacob and Grobbelaar, 2019).

3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).

Sapphire Deposits in Montana. Sapphires are mined from secondary deposits in Montana at three locales: Rock

Figure
Figure
Washing sediments to recover fragments of gems in 2011 near Ratnapura, Sri Lanka. Photo by Vincent Pardieu.

and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).

The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

Creek, the Missouri River, and Dry Cottonwood Creek (Zwaan et al., 2015; Hsu et al., 2017; Palke et al., 2023). These deposits are all related to Cenozoic volcanism, although the volcanic source rocks have not been clearly identified in all cases. The Rock Creek locality appears to be an eluvial or a colluvial deposit possibly related to rhyolitic volcanism and related ash or mudflows. Along the Missouri River, sapphires are found concentrated in gravel bars along the river banks. There is a large mining operation at Rock Creek as well as smaller artisanal operations along the Missouri River, all utilizing heavy machinery to enhance the volume processing of gravels and sapphire recovery.

bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).

Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

eroded and deposited unto the Baltic Sea coastline (Weitschat and Wichard, 2010; Sadowski et al., 2017). Since ancient times, amber has been recovered by picking it up along the beaches (especially after storms), or by using nets and other tools to obtain it from shallow water.

Oceaniclithosphere

Locating Alluvial Gem Deposits

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Amber Deposits Along the Baltic Sea Coastline. Baltic amber occurs in late Eocene to Oligocene glauconite-rich sediments (approximately 23–48 Ma in age) along the Baltic Sea coastline extending from Poland, Kaliningrad, Lithuania, and Latvia (Kasiński and Kramarska, 2008; Standke, 2008). Detailed study of the flora preserved in Baltic amber suggests a warm and temperate climate in the past. Glacial activity coincident with a marine transgression deposited amber into Pleistocene glacial tills, which are continuously

Carbonated slab melting Hydrous uid

Breakdown of hydrous phases

Finding an alluvial gem deposit is no small task, and such occurrences are often just the result of a serendipitous discovery by an individual spotting a gem crystal fragment lying loose in the dirt along a path or exposed in a rock outcrop. Such an event often results in many local people swarming the area and digging up the ground hoping to “strike it rich”. Historic examples include the gold rushes in California in 1848 (Kelley, 1954; Eifler, 2016; Mountford and Tuffnell, 2018; Baumgardner, 2020), in Australia in 1851 (Mudd, 2007), and more recently the extensive alluvial gem deposits found in the Ilakaka region of Madagascar in the mid-1990s (figure 10; see Guerin and Moreau, 2000).

Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).

Alluvial gem deposit formation is due collectively to geological, geomorphological, and sedimentological

Figure 10. Artisanal miners removing alluvial sediments to reach a deeply buried gravel layer containing gem fragments near Ilakaka in Madagascar.
Photo courtesy of Toby Smith.

and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).

processes. Ideally, one tries to first establish whether the geological conditions in the area would allow for the formation of certain gemstones in original host rocks (such as the presence of pegmatites which can host beryl, tourmaline, and topaz). The geomorphology of a prospective secondary location must also be conducive to collecting and storing gem crystals over geologic time through “structural traps” such as valleys, scours, dike margins, fractures, large changes in elevation, and river splays onto a floodplain. Rivers and streams must have enough water velocity and volume to move gemstonebearing sediments into structural traps where the reduced velocity causes the gem crystals to settle out. Similarly, they settle out along the inner bends of river meanders where the water velocity is also reduced. Geologic time is also another important consideration. Alluvial sediments are constantly in flux, so the most productive alluvial deposits are those that have had enough time to remove fine clays and sands and those that have also been buried to protect them from further erosion.

Mining Alluvial Gem Deposits

As described above, alluvial deposits of gems and other

The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).

Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

valuable heavy minerals vary widely in their geologic occurrence, extent, and accessibility. The host sediments can also vary in their degree of compaction from unconsolidated to more cemented sedimentary rocks. In some cases, the gemstones themselves are not contained within any sediments, but they lie loose along the bottoms of bodies of water. All these factors influence the mining techniques and types of equipment used for mineral recovery (Griffith, 2013). Both placer gems and industrial minerals are often recovered by artisanal miners (both men and women) working in the informal sector. Alluvial deposits are prospective because they typically have higher quality gem crystals, since over time inferior stones tend to be mostly destroyed by comminution, the geologic process where large particles are reduced to a smaller size. In addition, the deposits are often easier to mine with simple hand tools because the sediments are exposed near the surface, they are only partly consolidated, and the loose gems can often be recovered by washing and/or panning (figure 11).

Artisanal miners usually target alluvial gem deposits that are typically impractical in economic terms for mining

3.

sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

a relatively cool

an

Oceaniclithosphere

histogram of earthquake

(from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).

Figure
Mantle cross section showing
subducting slab, with
inset
frequency
Figure 11. Artisanal miners washing sediments along the Njuga River to recover fancy sapphires and other gem fragments in 2016 near Amani Makoro, a few kilometers from Songea in southern Tanzania. Photo by Wim Vertriest.

and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).

The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).

Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich

Figure 12. Mining of eluvial gem-bearing sediments from very weathered lava flows with mechanical equipment including a mechanical excavator, a rotating trammel cage to separate large rock pieces from the sediments, and a long sluice box to wash the sediments. This photo was taken in November 2020 at Khao

Waen, an eroded volcano where sapphire is mined near Chanthaburi in eastern Thailand. Photo by Wim Vertriest.

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

companies. A few placer deposits are exploited on a larger scale by companies using more modern mining equipment and techniques (figure 12). Among these are diamond deposits on the Atlantic continental shelf and beaches of South Africa and Namibia, the ruby deposits near Montepuez in Mozambique, and the deposits of volcanic sapphire in sediments near Chanthaburi in Thailand.

Summary

Sedimentary rocks host important deposits of numerous gem minerals that either formed or have been found in these rocks. This edition of Colored Stones Unearthed summarizes the characteristic features of sedimentary rocks and describes the sedimentary geological environments where gem minerals can become concentrated. Although often limited in lateral extent, surface exposures of secondary gem deposits can often be worked with simple tools, so they are exploited by artisanal miners in many parts of the world.

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Oceaniclithosphere

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

A final comment is necessary. The previous two installments of this column covered gems found in igneous and in metamorphic rocks. The present entry on gems in sedimentary rocks completes the main categories of rocks exposed at the earth’s surface, as would be discussed in any geology textbook. The three installments present these subjects as separate rock categories, when geological field observations sometimes produce a less clear picture. Since the environments of mineral formation among these three rock types lack distinct and accepted boundary conditions of temperature, pressure, time, and chemical composition, some surface rocks display evidence of having formed under conditions along the borders between rock categories. As mentioned earlier, for example, sediments being heated and compacted by burial undergo the process of diagenesis, whose conditions with even deeper burial can evolve into metamorphism. Therefore, mineral and gem formation can sometimes take place more along a continuum of geological conditions than might be inferred by the organization of the installments of this series.

Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).

Ploy

The Krugerrand was conceived by the South African government to promote private ownership of gold. Crafted from a durable 22ct gold alloy, it contains one full troy ounce of gold, with the remaining 8,33% composed of copper to enhance its resilience. The coin's name merges “Kruger”, honouring Paul Kruger, former President of the South African Republic, with “rand”, the nation’s currency. Its design features Kruger’s profile on the obverse and a springbok antelope on the reverse, symbolising SA’s national identity.

By the 1970s, the Krugerrand had become the world’s leading gold bullion coin, accounting for over 90% of the global market share by 1980. This surge in popularity was driven by its affordability, liquidity and the ability to bypass US restrictions on gold ownership by investing in foreign coins. However, geopolitical factors, notably economic sanctions due to apartheid policies, led to import bans in several Western countries during the 1980s and early 1990s.

Following the dismantling of apartheid in 1994, the Krugerrand regained its stature in the global market. Today, it remains the preferred choice among investors seeking a tangible and reliable form of gold investment. The coin’s legal tender status in SA and its exemption from VAT and capital gains tax further enhance its appeal.

In recent years, the Krugerrand’s value has been influenced by various factors, including global economic uncertainties and fluctuations in gold prices. For instance, during periods of economic instability, gold often serves as a safe-haven asset, driving up demand and, consequently, the price of Krugerrands. This trend

The Krugerrand: a legacy of South African gold

The Krugerrand, introduced in 1967, stands as a testament to SA’s rich gold heritage and its significant role in the global gold market. This iconic coin not only reflects the nation's history, but offers insights into the current dynamics of gold pricing

underscores the coins’ enduring relevance in today's investment landscape.

The Krugerrand’s journey from a government initiative to a global investment staple mirrors the evolving dynamics of the gold market. Its historical significance and continued prominence offer valuable insights for industry professionals and investors alike, highlighting the intricate relationship between geopolitical events and commodity pricing.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Krugerrand was the world’s first modern gold bullion coin, predating the Canadian Maple Leaf and American Gold Eagle. Its success was so influential that it paved the way for gold investment coins globally, becoming the model for other nations to follow.

The evolving landscape of the global pearl market

Timeless and elegant, pearls are celebrated as the birthstone of June. Once considered purely traditional, they are now at the forefront of modern jewellery design. We explore the way sustainability, innovation and shifting consumer tastes are reshaping the global pearl market

The global pearl jewellery market is undergoing significant transformation, shaped by evolving consumer behaviour, technological innovation and a heightened focus on sustainability and ethics. As industry professionals look ahead, understanding these changes is critical for positioning their businesses for continued success in a dynamic landscape.

In recent years, the pearl market has demonstrated robust growth. Valued at approximately US$13,8 billion in 2023, it is projected to reach US$22,4 billion by 2032, expanding at a compound annual growth rate of 5,5%. This growth is underpinned by rising global incomes, increasing demand for luxury and bespoke jewellery and greater accessibility of pearls across a broader consumer base. While pearls were once considered a niche or traditional product category, they have now entered the mainstream, driven by a surge in contemporary designs and renewed interest among younger consumers.

Regional market dynamics play a substantial role in this transformation. The Asia-Pacific region, home to major producers and consumers of pearls, accounted for over 45% of global revenue in 2023. Countries such as China, Japan and India maintain a cultural affinity for pearls, which has kept demand consistently high. Indonesia, in particular, has emerged as a significant producer, supplying a wide range of pearls and supporting a strong domestic jewellery design sector. Meanwhile, Europe is forecast to see the fastest growth through the end of the decade, with a projected compounded annual growth rate of 14,2% from 2022-2031. The resurgence of pearls in European fashion, especially

within younger demographics, is a key contributor to this trend. Increased visibility in high fashion and celebrity endorsements have further helped position pearls as stylish and modern, rather than dated or conservative.

A noticeable shift in consumer preference is also driving change in the market. Modern buyers are gravitating towards jewellery that feels personal and unique. Pearls, as organic gemstones with naturally varied shapes and colours, offer precisely that. There is a growing desire for authenticity, where imperfections are seen as attributes, rather than flaws. Additionally, pearls align well with the global trend towards more sustainable and ethically sourced products. Their cultivation –especially when done according to environmentally conscious

guidelines – is less harmful than mining-based alternatives. This makes them increasingly appealing to consumers wanting to balance luxury with responsibility.

The broadening appeal of pearl jewellery across gender lines is another emerging trend. No longer limited to traditional women’s jewellery, pearls are gaining popularity among male consumers, particularly among Millennials and Gen-Zs. Social media platforms and style influencers have helped normalise pearls in men’s fashion, contributing to the rise in demand for pearl necklaces, rings and earrings for males. This change not only reflects broader shifts in gender expression, but opens up new market segments for retailers and designers.

Technological advancements in pearl cultivation are enabling greater diversity in product offerings. Modern techniques

“The pearl jewellery market is undergoing a period of dynamic change, driven by rising demand from new consumer demographics and advances in technology. Sustainability and authenticity are now at the forefront, making pearls not only a symbol of luxury, but also a commitment to ethical practices.”

have improved the reliability and efficiency of pearl farming, reducing dependency on natural oysters and introducing more consistent and scalable production methods. These innovations are producing pearls in an expanded range of colours, sizes and shapes, allowing for more experimental and differentiated designs. As a result, retailers are better equipped to cater to varying tastes and price points.

The emphasis on sustainability continues to grow across the industry. Today’s consumers are more discerning and informed than ever before. Many seek out jewellery that aligns with their ethical values, including environmental impact, fair labour practices and transparency of sourcing. Pearl farms are responding to this demand by adopting eco-friendly cultivation practices such as improved water management, reduced chemical use and more sustainable farming cycles. Furthermore, certifications and traceability initiatives are becoming important tools for assuring buyers of a product’s origins. Companies that demonstrate a clear commitment to ethical practices are often able to charge a premium and build longer-term brand loyalty.

Another development shaping the market is the emergence of synthetic and imitation pearls. These products are becoming

increasingly sophisticated in appearance and serve a growing segment of the market which values affordability and animalfree alternatives. While synthetic pearls do not hold the same cultural or investment value as natural or cultured pearls, they are contributing to the democratisation of pearl jewellery and helping to expand the overall market. However, this trend also introduces new challenges regarding transparency and consumer education, as brands must clearly communicate the nature and quality of their products to avoid erosion of trust.

The digitalisation of retail and the expansion of e-commerce channels have also played a crucial role in reshaping the pearl jewellery landscape. Online shopping platforms provide consumers with access to a wider range of products than ever before, regardless of geographic location. Virtual try-on technologies, high-definition product imagery and detailed customer reviews all help bridge

the experiential gap between online and in-store purchasing. Additionally, the convenience of browsing and buying pearl jewellery online has encouraged impulse purchasing and gift-buying, particularly during peak seasons.

Despite strong growth prospects, the industry is not without challenges. Natural and environmental factors, such as water pollution and climate change, can have significant impacts on pearl farming yields and quality. Price volatility, driven by changes in supply and demand, poses a risk to long-term planning for producers and retailers alike. Furthermore, increasing competition from lower-cost alternatives, including synthetic pearls and fashion jewellery, is exerting pressure on traditional players to differentiate through design, craftsmanship and branding.

The pearl jewellery market is experiencing a period of dynamic change. Rising demand from new consumer demographics, evolving values regarding sustainability and advances in technology are all contributing to the evolution of this historic segment of the jewellery trade. For professionals in the industry, the ability to understand and adapt to these shifts, while maintaining a focus on quality, authenticity and innovation, will be essential for thriving in this new era. The future of pearl jewellery is not only bright, but also increasingly diverse, inclusive and conscious.

BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of South Africa – proudly showcasing manufacturers committed to crafting quality jewellery locally.

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550

E-mail: adele@amj.co.za

ADJANI SCHOEMAN

T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 083 460 7334

E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za

AFRICAN TRADE BEADS

JEWELLERY COLLECTION

Tel no: 082 905 1736/011 726 7643

E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/

AFROGEM

Tel no: 021 424 0848

E-mail: info@afrogem.co.za

AKAPO JEWELS

Tel no: 011 038 3130

E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za

ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING

Tel no: 044 873 0567

E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/

ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 079 744 0971

E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com

ALLOY JEWELLERY

GALLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 073 92 45254

E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za Website: www.alloygallery.co.za

ALTIN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 998 0141

E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za

AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD

T/A SCHERMANS

Tel no: 072 928 0385

E-mail: info@schermans.co.za

AMBIGO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 062 282 6924

E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com

ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 934 5682

E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com

Website: www.anaczynski.co.za

ANASTASIA JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 507 5561

E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com

Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za

ANDREAS SALVER

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 706 6828

E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com

Website: www.andreassalver.com

ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 061 080 6481

E-mail: anna@annarosholt.com

ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID

Tel no: 082 956 7747

E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za

ANTONICORNELLIS

JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE

Tel no: 074 758 1014

E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com

ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 566 5046

E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com

ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 706 3629

E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net

AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 7607/8

E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za

Website: www.autraders.co.za

AUGENTA JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 883 8288

E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

AURUM DESIGN

Tel no: 021 423 6590

E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za

Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za

AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 475 7891

E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za

AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN

Tel no: 084 247 0358

E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS –RIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE

Tel no: 013 757 0827

E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com

Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS –VALLEY HYPER

Tel no: 013 757 0827

E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com

Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

BEADZ BY FLEX

Tel no: 083 967 3264

E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za

Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za

BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 885 8303

E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za

BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 658 0166

E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za

BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 056 2156

E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com

BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE

Tel no: 032 586 0889

E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za

Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/

BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 450 4320

E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery. international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery. international/

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 560 5064

E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A

Tel no: 072 272 3089

E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za

B RETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 031 562 8009

E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com

Website: www.brettlands.co.za

FERRARI LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY)

Building 3, OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone, Bonaero Drive, Bonaero Park, 1619

Tel: +27 87 654 2543 | Cell: +27 72 472 7170 / +27 66 488 2055

Email: info.za@ferrarigroup.net | Website: www.ferrarigroup.net

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO

Tel no: 011 616 5328

E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

BRONSKI JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 852 7891

E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE –WORKSHOP

Tel no: 011 438 7920

E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 202 5021

E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com

CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 781 0303

E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CAPE DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 421 5364

E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 021 460 3632

E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 551 2066

E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN

Tel no: 031 303 5402

E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – GERMISTON

Tel no: 011 334 6263

E-mail: shannon@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS

PE/GQEBERHA

Tel no: 041 365 1890

E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC

Tel no: 041 992 4421

E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM

Tel no: 051 507 4044

E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za

CHARL DE BEER

Tel no: 012 440 7693

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 3252

E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA

Tel no: 021 975 5097

E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

CHATEAU D’OR CC

Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723

E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za

Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com

CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 599 5919

E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com

CREATIVE DESIGN

MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 031 563 3987

E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com

D FABRIK (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 327 7926

E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com

DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 8841

E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY

DESIG N & GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 023 342 7808

E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC

Tel no: 021 880 1026

E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612

E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

DC JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 691 3692

E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za

DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 3182

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net

Website: www.waynedeglondesign. withtank.com

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 454 2161

E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST

Tel no: 043 726 2291

E-mail: info@designergold.co.za

Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS

T/A CHRISTOPHER REID

Tel no: 021 418 4484

E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za

Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP

Tel no: 072 830 5656

E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

DIAMONDS4EVER

Tel no: 082 786 7677

E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za

Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

DIDIDESIGN

Tel no: 011 784 0369

E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za

Website: www.dididesign.co.za

DLR JEWELLERS

Tel no: 057 101 0359

E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

DR ESME SPICER

Tel no: 073 239 9983

E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 031 373 6673/6

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za

Website: www.dut.ac.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 553 0332

E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 072 636 0213

E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za

Website: www.ejewellery.org.za

ELEMENTAL STUDIO

Tel no: 084 507 7777

E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com

Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za

EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 5190

E-mail: info@ember.co.za

Website: www.ember.co.za

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES

Tel no: 031 824 9427

E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 083 578 7447

E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com

Website: www.eonhoon.com

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER

JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 8120

E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 018 290 5722/3

E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com

Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

FERRARI LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY)

Building 3, OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone, Bonaero Drive, Bonaero Park, 1619

Tel: +27 87 654 2543 | Cell: +27 72 472 7170 / +27 66 488 2055

Email: info.za@ferrarigroup.net | Website: www.ferrarigroup.net

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD

T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 3402

E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY

Tel no: 073 397 8820

E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 671 5529

E-mail: insaaf.achmat@ gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 787 6120

E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za

Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 363 1881

E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com

Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES

Tel no: 021 511 6237

E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za

Website: www.finegold.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY

MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 564 9006

E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

FRANKLI WILD

Tel no: 011 483 2620

E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com

Website: www.frankliwild.com

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC

Tel no: 021 555 1437

E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net

Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 011 852 2046

E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 753 3304

E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com

Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

GEM AFRIQUE

Tel no: 062 050 6479

E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 914 0838

E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewellery academy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewellery academy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA

VAN ENGELENHOVEN

Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS

Tel no: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS

Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za

Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH

CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS

Tel no: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO

T/A FETTER-AND-THREE

Tel no: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel no: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 021 0441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/ impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERY

DESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN

T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/ www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

FERRARI LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY)

Building 3, OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone, Bonaero Drive, Bonaero Park, 1619

Tel: +27 87 654 2543 | Cell: +27 72 472 7170 / +27 66 488 2055

Email: info.za@ferrarigroup.net | Website: www.ferrarigroup.net

K2 DESIG N STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel no: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel no: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel no: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: www.kimcloetedesign.co.za

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: admin@ljbi.org.za tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel no: 072 716 7632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SEZ

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@MetCon.co.za

Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: salesct@MetCon.co.za

Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel no: 082 772 9812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel no: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

FERRARI LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY)

Building 3, OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone, Bonaero Drive, Bonaero Park, 1619

Tel: +27 87 654 2543 | Cell: +27 72 472 7170 / +27 66 488 2055

Email: info.za@ferrarigroup.net | Website: www.ferrarigroup.net

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel no: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: www.pearlanddiamond.co.za

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE

Tel no: 012 035 0260/063 656 1481

E-mail: info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za

Website: www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA

AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za

Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za

Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za

Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za

Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com

Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za

Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel no: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel no: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

FERRARI LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY)

Building 3, OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone, Bonaero Drive, Bonaero Park, 1619

Tel: +27 87 654 2543 | Cell: +27 72 472 7170 / +27 66 488 2055 Email: info.za@ferrarigroup.net | Website: www.ferrarigroup.net

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www. hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel no: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: www.thatoradebejewellery.co.za

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: www.benefittohumanity.com

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel no: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 073 052 7587/083 326 5746

E-mail: samantha@thejhub.co.za; ian@thejhub.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

TSWANE PRECIOUS METALS

Tel no: 012 035 0260

E-mail: info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za Website: www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/ arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS

JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@ zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel no: 082 334 4426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

All JCSA member details were correct at the time of going to press. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of contents, the Jewellery Council of South Africa cannot be held responsible for any omissions or errors, or any misfortune, injury, consequences or damages which may arise therefrom.

cutters and setters, watch importers, coin dealers, goldsmiths, diamond and metal processors and refiners. does not fit all, we also appreciate that standard for these customers.

what type of specialist cover the jewellery industry has

BRAND SUPPORTERS

Jewellery and Precious Assets division is excited to Gem & Jewel cover, which is endorsed by the Council.

natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

BRYTE

www.brytesa.com

Brand supporters

natasha.maroun@brytesa.com/ robyn.lambert@brytesa.com (011) 088-7000

BYL DIAMONDS

www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com (021) 419-2000

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS www.capepreciousmetals.co.za orders@cpmct.co.za (066) 063-1518 (WhatsApp)

CAPE TOOLS www.capetools.co.za sales@capewatch.co.za queries@capewatch.co.za (021) 424-8261 / 086 111 5137

INFERNO GOLD

www.infernogold.co.za info@infernogold.co.za 083-396-6178

FERRARI LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY)

MOON INVESTMENTS

www.mooninvest.co.za invest@mooninvest.co.za (076) 411-1502

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za (012) 035-0260

invest@mooninvest.co.za | mooninvest.co.za | 076 411 1502

J.P.P.E MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

“Manufacturers and wholesalers of South Africa's broadest selection of fine jewellery designs and quality colour gemstones since 1965”

www.jppe.co.za info@jppe.co.za (021) 424-7764

www.jppe.co.za

www.smwatch.co.za smwatch@iafrica.com (012) 326-5996

METAL CONCENTRATORS

capepreciousmetals.co.za | orders@cpmct.co.za | whatsapp: 066 063 1518

GIA EDUCATION AND LABORATORY www.gia.edu (011) 334-2744

www.metcon.co.za info@metcon.co.za (012) 000-4440 (SEZ) (021) 510 0770 (Cape Town)

www.ustech.co.za info@ustech.co.za (021) 905-0476 (Cape Town) (011) 794 2105 (Johannesburg)

Rising Demand, Consistent Supply!

We’ve seen a noticeable increase in demand for certain diamonds, including fancy colours, specific fancy shapes, as well as commercial and oversize stones. This growing interest enables us to offer goods at highly competitive prices helping to keep the market active.

At BYL Diamonds, we stay closely aligned with current market trends and client requests to ensure we have exactly what our clients are looking for at all times. Whether you need commercial goods, rare fancy colours or large investment stones, we’re confident that we can supply the right stone at the right price.

Our extensive inventory is available across our key locations in Cape Town, Johannesburg and London, giving clients easy access to a wide range of top stones.

Contact us today and let us know your needs

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