SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • April 2025 by www.jewellerysa.co.za

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INDUSTRY INSIGHTS

• Guidelines for measuring ESG performance in supply chain released

• Hybrid diamond master sets launched

• Namdia recovers portion of diamonds stolen in armed heist

• Gemfields faces turmoil in Mozambique

SEEN AROUND

MetCon hosted an afternoon with Legor's experts, featuring plating techniques, industry insights and a Q&A with master alloy specialists

FROM KIMBERLEY TO THE WORLD

While South Africa may no longer be the world’s dominant diamond producer, it remains a key player

BEYOND THE SPARKLE

In conversation with State Diamond Trader CEO Nosiphiwo Mzamo

BRILLIANCE IN HONG KONG: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE 2025 TWIN JEWELLERY SHOWS

With stunning showcases of fine jewellery, rare gemstones and cutting-edge trends, the event reaffirmed Hong Kong’s status as a premier jewellery hub

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

As the jewellery industry continues to evolve, staying ahead of the curve means embracing the latest tools, technologies and machinery that enhance both creativity and efficiency

TALKING TECH WITH TENNILLE HOGE

Tennille Hoge from Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies explains how technology is shaping the diamond and jewellery industry

COVER FEATURE

BYL Diamonds is a trusted supplier of high-quality natural and lab-grown diamonds, known for precision cutting and exceptional craftsmanship

THE CHANGING DIAMOND MARKET

The declining prices of lab-grown diamonds: what is driving the drop?

JEWELLERY’S NEXT GENERATION

CPM engages with future jewellery professionals in Limpopo

HOW DIAMOND BENEFICIATION IS RESHAPING SA

Richard Steenkamp, Senior Sales and Office Manager for De Beers Sightholder Sales SA, explains that diamonds represent something very significant

EDUCATIONAL INSERT

CONSUMER CONFIDENCE

The crucial role of independent gem labs in SA

BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of SA 21. 23. 28. 24. 30. 33. 42. 44.

Jewellery Council of SA update

Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), shares the latest developments from the council’s office

The JCSA is excited to announce that this year’s Jewellex Africa will take place on 31 August and 1 September at the Wanderers Club in Illovo, Johannesburg. This event is the biggest industry event of the year and attracts suppliers and buyers nationally.

The show has been expanded significantly, utilising both the ground floor and first floor of the club.

Our excitement is heightened by an overwhelmingly enthusiastic “yes” vote from a poll we sent to last year’s exhibitors for this year’s theme: “Festive”. This vibrant theme promises to infuse the event with a lively atmosphere, celebrating the jewellery industry’s most significant selling season.

While the event’s décor will reflect the festive spirit, exhibitors are not required to decorate their stalls accordingly. However, those who wish to do so are warmly encouraged to do so. To assist in creating a festive ambience, we have proposed reputable décor suppliers to the exhibitors for their consideration.

National Treasury released draft amendments to the DRC Regulations and an accompanying explanatory memorandum thereto on 1 August 2024, according to which it was proposed that the “holder” exclusion in the definition of “valuable metal” in Regulation 1 be removed with effect from 1 April 2025.

The proposed amendment was gazetted by the Minister of Finance on Friday, 14 March 2025. Accordingly, with effect from 1 April 2025, Mineral and Petroleum Resources Development Act (MPRDA) licence-holders and persons contracted to them to conduct mining operations will no longer be excluded from the scope of the DRC Regulations.

It should be noted that, although it is unclear from the notice published on 14 March 2025, the MPRDA licence-holder exclusion has in fact been removed with effect from 1 April 2025. It is understood that MPRDA licence-holders will nonetheless be required to apply the DRC Regulations with effect from 1 April 2025 onwards.

A copy of the amendments to the regulations is available from the Jewellery Council’s offices.

We recently extended another invitation to members who have not yet joined our divisional WhatsApp groups, encouraging them to consider becoming part of these valuable channels. The

groups are designed to provide quick, efficient communication that benefits everyone involved.

The available WhatsApp groups are as follows:

• Jewellery Manufacturers and Suppliers Group.

• Gauteng Retailers.

• Western and Eastern Cape Retailers.

• KZN and Free State Retailers.

Currently, the Jewellery Manufacturers and Suppliers Group includes some non-members and our goal is to encourage them to become full members over time. We believe that these groups will serve as a valuable platform for streamlined communication and stronger connections within our community.

As outlined in previous communications, the Jewellery Council Executive Committee has identified several key initiatives for 2025.

One of the primary initiatives we are already working on is the development and implementation of a comprehensive marketing strategy. This will encompass both print and digital media, video advertising and a dual-consumer approach, all of which will be contingent on available funding.

To draft a detailed plan and determine the necessary budget, we will be engaging a specialised agency. We are pleased to announce that Adri Viviers has been appointed to lead the marketing efforts for the JCSA. Her first task will be to develop a marketing plan which will be implemented by the agency.

Although the council does a lot behind the scenes, we understand that members may not always

have the time to read reports or articles, given the demands of our busy lives. Adri’s role will help improve communication, ensuring members are more informed and can fully benefit from their membership. For example, the council has negotiated special bank rates for credit card machine usage. Just one sale using these machines can easily cover the cost of an annual membership.

As part of the broader marketing strategy, the council is also focused on enhancing member and partner engagement. To further strengthen these relationships, we will be hosting roadshows in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town. These events will provide an opportunity to engage with members and non-members will also be invited to attend, learn more about the council and see firsthand the work we are doing.

We plan to approach potential sponsors to partner with the council and help support these important initiatives.

The strength of our association is directly linked to the active engagement of our members. We invite you to participate fully in the opportunities provided by the JCSA to ensure the growth and success of the industry.

For further information about the council, our initiatives or how to get involved, call us on (011) 484-5528, e-mail us at: admin@jewellery.org.za or visit our website at: www.jewellery.org.za.

We thank you for your continued support and look forward to working together to achieve our shared goals in 2025 and beyond.

For more information about the council, our initiatives or how to get involved, visit our website at: www.jewellery.org.za, call us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail us at: admin@jewellery.org.za.

IIInferno Gold G G

Editor: Adri Viviers

Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: adriv@jewellery.org.za

Sales Representative and Administrative Manager: Thuli Majola Cell: 074-243-0703

E-mail: thulim@jewellery.org.za

SA Jewellery News is published by: Jewellery Council of South Africa

CEO: Lorna Lloyd Cell: 082-456-5558

E-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za

Executive Assistant to CEO: Elsa da Silva Cell: 082-214-0028

E-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za

The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily refl ect those of the owners, affi liated organisations, members, the publisher, or its agents. While every eff ort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the content, neither the owners, affi liated organisations, the editor, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any errors, omissions, or any consequences arising therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. © 2025. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without prior written permission from the publisher.

ON THE COVER

editor's note

Welcome to the April edition of SAJN and, fi ttingly, our Diamond Edition!

April’s birthstone, the diamond, is more than just a symbol of love and strength – it is a gemstone deeply woven into South Africa’s history and identity. Our country has long been known as one of the world’s most significant sources of diamonds, with legendary discoveries like the Eureka Diamond, the Star of South Africa, the Excelsior Diamond, the Cullinan Diamond, the Golden Jubilee Diamond and the Blue Moon Diamond. From the rush of fortune-seekers in the 19th century to SA’s role in shaping the global diamond trade, these brilliant stones have played an extraordinary part in our nation’s story.

I celebrated my 15th wedding anniversary in February and my diamond ring has taken on even greater meaning over the years. It is not just a beautiful piece of jewellery – it is a symbol of love, commitment and cherished memories. My diamond tells a story, one that continues to shine with every passing year.

Today, diamonds remain as captivating as ever, whether adorning engagement rings, set into contemporary jewellery designs or even used in cutting-edge technology. Their allure is timeless and their value extends far beyond their sparkle.

In this special edition, we celebrate the brilliance of diamonds, their history, craftsmanship and lasting impact on our industry. We hope you find inspiration in these pages, whether you are a jeweller, a designer, a retailer or simply someone who appreciates the magic of these precious gems.

As always, we would love to hear from you. Please share your thoughts, stories and insights with us – we value your voice and the vibrant industry we serve.

Adri

With o ces in Cape Town and Johannesburg, BYL Diamonds has cemented its reputation as one of South Africa’s leading diamond and jewellery manufacturers and wholesale suppliers. Through associates with mines in SA and state-of-the-art polishing factories abroad, BYL Diamonds has secured access to some of the world’s most impressive loose cut diamonds and gemstones, in a galaxy of shapes, sizes, colours and clarities. In addition to being a leading supplier of loose diamonds and gemstones, it is renowned for the quality of its ever-changing jewellery range, with each piece made using the ﬁnest diamonds and gemstones carefully chosen for each individual item. For more information on its range of diamonds, gemstones and jewellery collections, contact BYL Diamonds on tel: (021) 419-2000, e-mail: orders@byldiamonds.com or visit: www.byldiamonds.com.

Gemfields faces turmoil in Mozambique

Gemfields’ Montepuez Ruby Mining (MRM) in Mozambique was thrown into crisis on 24 December 2024 when over 200 illegal miners stormed a nearby residential village, setting buildings on fire and attempting to invade the ruby deposit. Security forces responded with force, resulting in two deaths. That same night, a vocational training centre built by Gemfields in Wikupuri was looted with equipment meant for 800 farmers stolen.

The attack highlighted the instability in Cabo Delgado, a province plagued by political unrest and terrorism. The US Department of State has classified it as a “Do not travel” zone. The

violence followed Mozambique’s disputed 9 October election in which ruling party Frelimo’s Daniel Chapo was declared president amid fraud allegations. A court ruling on 23 December upheld the results, sparking protests, violent crackdowns and over 130 deaths.

Gemfields temporarily halted operations and evacuated staff but resumed mining within days. CEO Sean Gilbertson acknowledged ongoing challenges, including civil unrest and logistics issues. The company is also facing financial strain, with its December ruby auction generating US$46.2 million, down from US$69.5 million the previous year. MD Adrian Banks attributed the drop

to economic difficulties in China and global instability.

Beyond Mozambique, Gemfields is struggling in Zambia, where it suspended mining at the Kagem emerald mine due to market oversupply and a reinstated 15% export tax. The move threatens jobs with potential layoffs if the tax remains.

To cut costs, Gemfields has shelved the Megaruma ruby project, shut down its Nairoto gold operation and is seeking a buyer for Fabergé. Despite setbacks, the company remains optimistic, with a new Montepuez processing plant set to open in June and record per-carat ruby prices signalling strong demand.

Guidelines for measuring ESG performance in supply chain released

A year after releasing its breakthrough ESG guidance for the jewellery industry, the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) has introduced a follow-up document outlining guidelines for measuring ESG performance in the distribution chain. While the initial guidance focused on companies handling laboratorygrown diamonds, the new document applies across the industry, regardless of company size or sector.

Titled the CIBJO Guidelines for Measuring ESG Performance, this document was developed by the CIBJO Laboratory-Grown Diamond Committee, chaired by Wesley Hunt, in collaboration with independent adviser Key & Co and CIBJO’s Sustainable Development Commission, led by John Mulligan. Authored by ESG experts Jon Key and Helen Mitchell, it was first presented at the 2024 CIBJO Congress in Shanghai, China and later at the Vicenzaoro jewellery show in Italy.

Now available for free download on the CIBJO website, the guidelines focus on 14 ESG themes, each with defined measurement areas and sample metrics tailored to the jewellery industry. These measures provide a practical framework for companies to assess and improve their ESG performance.

Recognising the jewellery sector’s fragmented and diverse nature, CIBJO acknowledges that different industries, such as precious metals, gemstones and artisanal mining, face unique challenges in ESG measurement. The document includes a 10-step approach to help businesses navigate their ESG journey, along with a glossary explaining key terms.

The guidelines align with CIBJO’s Blue Books and the forthcoming ESG and sustainability roadmap from the Sustainable Development Commission. They also complement broader ESG initiatives, including the Watch and Jewellery Initiative 2030.

Importantly, while these guidelines offer recommendations, they are not a compliance mechanism. However, they align with emerging regulations. For example, in June 2024, the European Commission introduced ESG regulations which, by 2027, will require listed SMEs with over 10 employees and assets exceeding €25 million or turnover above €50 million to assess and disclose their ESG impact.

“This is a significant guidance document and we’re pleased to make it freely available to the industry,” said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri. “For years, we’ve promoted corporate responsibility and sustainability. Now, ESG is evolving into legal requirements and, as an industry, we must be prepared. The CIBJO Guidelines for Measuring ESG Performance are an essential step in that process.”

Namdia recovers portion of diamonds stolen in armed heist

Namib Desert Diamonds (Namdia) has recovered approximately NAD40,6 million (about US$2,2 million) worth of the NAD314,9 million (about US$17,2 million) in diamonds that a group of armed robbers stole in January.

The Namibian government-owned sales and marketing company is “hopeful” that it will recover more of the goods as police continue to investigate, it said recently. Two of the four suspects were arrested and are scheduled to appear in court in May.

Namdia has also strengthened its security to prevent any recurrences of the incident,

including measures it put into place directly after the robbery and some that are still in progress.

Additionally, the company has repaired some of the damage it incurred during the event, so its employees were able to return to the office. Staff had been working remotely since the robbery took place.

The firm is still doing an internal probe of the situation and has appointed a security consultant to oversee the department and make critical enhancements. Namdia’s former security chief was killed trying to protect the site during the robbery.

Meanwhile, the company has temporarily suspended executive staff, including its security manager, in order to conduct an impartial investigation, although it does not believe that any employees besides one security officer, who has been arrested, were involved in the robbery, it said. – Rapaport

Hybrid diamond master sets launched

The Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA) has partnered with Stuller and Sarine to introduce a new hybrid diamond master set, designed to enhance colour-grading accuracy by combining natural and labgrown diamonds.

Master sets serve as essential benchmarks for grading diamond colour, a key factor in determining a diamond’s overall value. Accurate grading ensures consistency across the industry, making these sets crucial tools for gem labs and jewellers.

Unveiled at AGA’s annual conference in Tucson, Arizona, USA, in February, the Certified Hybrid Diamond Master Sets were developed in collaboration with Stuller and the Gem Certification & Assurance Lab (GCAL) by Sarine. Approved by the AGA board of governors, they will be used at the Certified Gemological Laboratory (CGL) in Carlsbad, California, as well as designated GCAL by Sarine locations.

These hybrid sets address long-standing industry challenges, including the limited availability and rising costs of traditional all-natural master stones.

Stuller, a leading diamond supplier, will source labgrown diamonds for higher colour grades and natural diamonds for lower grades, making the sets both costeffective and reliable.

“Master stones must meet strict criteria, VG-plus proportions, VS2-plus clarity, faceted girdles, minimal fluorescence and a pure yellow hue without tinges or modifiers, while accurately representing each respective colour grade,” explained Angelo Palmieri, President of GCAL by Sarine. “Artificial intelligence [AI] has streamlined the process, making master sets more accessible for gemmologists and jewellers.”

AGA highlighted that Sarine’s AI technology enhances consistency in colour grading by optimising stone selection. Each master set undergoes verification and certification by GCAL by Sarine, combining AI-driven analysis with human expertise to ensure precision.

The Certified Hybrid Diamond Master Sets will soon be available for purchase through Stuller, offering a more accessible and reliable solution for diamond colour grading.

Dates confirmed for 2026 Hong Kong Jewellery Shows

The Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) has confirmed the dates for the 2026 edition of its highly anticipated Twin Jewellery Shows. The HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show will take place from 2-6 March 2026 at AsiaWorldExpo (AWE), while the HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show will run from 4-8 March 2026. Both events will also have an online presence on

hktdc.com with the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show accessible from 2 February-1 April 2026 and the Jewellery Show available from 4 February-3 April 2026.

These world-renowned shows serve as a vital platform for jewellery professionals, traders and buyers to discover the latest trends, source high-quality materials and forge valuable business connections. As one of the most significant events in the

global jewellery calendar, the Twin Jewellery Shows are expected to attract leading exhibitors and visitors from around the world. With a diverse range of fine jewellery, gemstones and industry innovations on display, the fairs continue to be a key destination for those looking to stay ahead in the ever-evolving jewellery market.

For more information, visit the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) website.

ROUMIL PATEL

Director

+91 7228844354

+27 0832756106

krishagems.sa@gmail.com

Suite 106B, 3 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, Johannesburg - 2196

MetCon & Legor host exclusive industry event

Legor specialists, Emanuele Birro and Antonio Poliero, travelled from Italy to showcase the latest in plating techniques. The sessions were designed to provide hands-on learning, with jewellers actively participating in a live demonstration and an interactive Q&A session with the master alloy and plating specialists.

A highlight of the event was the launch of Legor’s latest innovation, Polaris, a new, ready-to-use silver alloy to complement the popular Silnova product. Polaris is a 925 fine silver alloy designed for casting, featuring deoxidising elements that enhance the production process and improve brilliance after casting. Developed to meet the needs of silver jewellery manufacturers, Polaris enables the effortless creation of whiter, brighter pieces right from the first cast.

To enhance the experience, attendees received a plating starter kit, Golden Rules to Plating guide and invaluable insights that will enhance their jewellerymaking processes.

Grant N Crosse, the MD of MetCon, emphasised the company’s commitment to empowering jewellers, stating: “MetCon is dedicated to supporting jewellers by sharing knowledge that strengthens the jewellery industry as a whole.”

The event underscored MetCon’s mission to add value to the industry through education, innovation and collaboration. By hosting events like these, MetCon continues to bridge the gap between international expertise and local jewellers, ensuring sustainable growth and excellence in the field.

The legacy and future of South Africa’s diamond mines

Once a global leader, South Africa’s diamond industry now faces rising costs, competition and the growth of lab-grown diamonds. However, its high-quality stones and ethical sourcing still offer a competitive edge

South Africa’s history is deeply intertwined with diamonds. The discovery of them near Kimberley in the late 19th century set off a mining boom that shaped the nation’s economy and cemented its place in the global diamond trade. For decades, the country was a dominant force in diamond production. Today, however, SA faces new challenges as it competes with other major producers, shifting consumer trends and the rise of lab-grown alternatives. The question remains: can SA maintain its competitiveness in the global diamond market?

A legacy of diamonds

SA’s diamond mining industry began in 1867, when a young boy discovered a shiny stone on the banks of the Orange River. That stone turned out to be a 21,25ct diamond, sparking a rush of fortune-seekers and leading to the development of Kimberley, home of the world-famous Big Hole. This discovery laid the foundation for De Beers, the company that would go on to dominate the diamond industry for over a century.

By the mid-20th century, SA was the world’s largest diamond producer, supplying nearly 30% of global rough diamond output. Some of the world’s most famous diamonds, including the Cullinan Diamond, the largest rough gemquality diamond ever found, came from South African mines.

SA’s changing role in the diamond industry

While the country remains an important player, its dominance has declined. Today, SA contributes only about 5-6% of global diamond production,

trailing behind Russia, Botswana, Canada and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Several factors have contributed to this shift.

Many of SA’s once-rich diamond mines are now either depleted or less productive. The Kimberley mines, as well as some operations in Limpopo and the Northern Cape, have seen declining yields. Production peaked in the 1980s and early 1990s, but as older mines near the end of their life-cycles, output has steadily dropped.

Another major challenge is the high cost of mining. South African diamond mining is capital-intensive, requiring deep underground operations that drive up expenses. Rising electricity costs, labour expenses and regulatory hurdles have made the industry less competitive, especially compared with countries like Botswana, where mining operations are more efficient and government partnerships provide stability.

Meanwhile, other nations have gained ground. Russia remains the world’s largest diamond producer, while Botswana has surpassed SA as Africa’s top diamond supplier, largely due to Debswana, a 50/50 partnership between De Beers and the Botswana government. Canada and Australia have also emerged as major players, particularly among buyers looking for ethical and conflict-free diamonds.

(Above): Frederick Wells holding the Cullinan Diamond, 1905.

(Above): The Big Hole in Kimberley.

Adding to the pressure is the rise of lab-grown diamonds. These stones – which are chemically identical to natural diamonds, but far cheaper to produce – are gaining popularity, especially among younger consumers who are more open to sustainable alternatives. While natural diamonds still hold prestige, this shift in demand could impact newly mined stones.

Can SA remain competitive?

Despite these challenges, SA still holds some key advantages. Its mines continue to produce some of the world’s highest-quality diamonds, particularly large, high-value stones. The Cullinan Mine, owned by Petra Diamonds, is known for its exceptional blue diamonds and rare Type IIa diamonds, some of the purest in the world. These rare finds fetch premium prices, keeping SA competitive in the luxury segment.

Technology is also playing a role in keeping the industry viable. Mining companies are investing in innovations such as x-ray transmission (XRT) sorting, which helps recover more diamonds from lower-grade ore, while reducing waste. Addi -

“While SA may no longer be the world’s dominant diamond producer, it remains a key player due to its high-quality stones, advanced mining techniques and ethical sourcing standards.”

tionally, efforts to strengthen the local diamond industry through beneficiation, cutting, polishing and jewellery manufacturing could help SA retain more value from its diamond resources. While much of its rough diamond production is still exported, expanding local processing could create jobs and boost economic returns.

Ethical sourcing is another strength. With increasing concerns about conflict diamonds, SA’s strict mining regulations and adherence to the Kimberley Process give it an advantage. Consumers and brands are looking for responsibly mined diamonds and SA’s wellregulated industry positions it as a trustworthy supplier.

The road ahead

For SA to maintain its standing

in the diamond industry, it must adapt to shifting market conditions. Investing in new diamond deposits, particularly in offshore marine diamond mining, could help sustain production levels. Mining companies must also find ways to lower operational costs, whether through energyefficiency improvements or attracting new investment.

Another crucial step is strengthening local beneficiation efforts. Encouraging more cutting, polishing and jewellery manufacturing within the country could keep more of the industry’s value in SA. Government incentives and supportive trade policies could play a role in making this a reality.

Marketing will also be key. SA’s diamonds are often of higher quality and ethically sourced, but stronger branding and consumer education could help differentiate them in a crowded global market.

While SA may no longer be the world’s dominant diamond producer, it remains a key player due to its high-quality stones, advanced mining techniques and ethical sourcing standards. To stay competitive, the industry must invest in new resources, enhance local processing and adapt to evolving consumer preferences.

With innovation, strategic investment and strong branding, SA’s diamond industry can continue to shine – not just for its historic legacy, but for its future potential.

In conversation with State Diamond Trader CEO Nosiphiwo Mzamo

As the diamond market navigates ongoing global challenges, South Africa’s State Diamond Trader (SDT) remains committed to supporting local manufacturers and strengthening the country’s position in the industry. Nosiphiwo Mzamo, CEO of the SDT, shares insights on diamond demand and market trends in SA

What was the level of demand for rough diamonds from clients last year?

Based on a survey conducted on client requirements for 2024, the total demand for rough diamonds from SDT clients stood at 382,035ct.

Which types of stones were in demand?

Most clients preferred 2ct-plus rough stones, as these are the most economically viable for local manufacturing. However, there was also demand for -6 grainer stones, largely driven by clients with international partnerships or access to global markets, allowing them to market polished diamonds from those size ranges effectively.

How are you navigating the challenging diamond market?

The diamond industry is currently experiencing a downward trajectory. SDT is adapting by focusing on purchasing and selling stones that align with current client demand.

Given that buyers are more selective and price-sensitive, SDT’s leveraging longstanding relationships with producers to negotiate better pricing, ensuring that both the entity and its clients can remain competitive.

How many carats did you purchase and distribute to your clients in 2024?

During the 2023/24 financial year, SDT purchased 248 550ct and sold 251 604ct. The variation is due to stock carried over from the previous financial year. From AprilDecember 2024, SDT purchased and sold 104 009,48ct.

What is your projection for the 2024/25 financial year?

SDT’s exploring the possibility of purchasing diamonds from other African countries, starting with a pilot project in Botswana. With SA’s diamond production steadily declining, De Beers has indicated that low production levels will continue until 2027. This initiative aims to secure alternative supply sources.

The pilot project has been allocated R20 million, focusing on rough diamonds which are in demand among SDT clients. Unlike the current 10% run-ofMine restriction, this initiative could provide greater flexibility in sourcing rough diamonds.

What prompted you to introduce the diamond show?

Since 2014, SDT has exhibited at the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, participating nine times. Observing how non-diamondproducing countries successfully host international shows, the SDT team saw an opportunity to bring a similar event to SA.

SA’s globally recognised for its high-quality diamonds and exceptional craftsmanship. The SA Diamond and Jewellery Show was launched to highlight this expertise, while reinforcing the “Mined in South Africa, Manufactured by South Africans” narrative. Consumers today want to know the story behind their diamonds and SA offers a compelling mine-tomarket journey.

How successful was the show?

The inaugural event was a great success, attracting both local and international delegates. While direct sales weren’t the primary focus, exhibitors built valuable networks, showcasing South African craftsmanship to a global audience. The positive

reception has encouraged further development, with stakeholders advocating the continuation of the show into 2026.

How do you plan to grow the show in future?

One of the main challenges this year was reaching and inviting global diamond and jewellery buyers. Moving forward, SDT will leverage the contacts gathered during the show to enhance international engagement.

Key strategies for growth include:

• Enhanced digital marketing and social media campaigns to boost awareness.

• Expanding exhibitor participation to include Botswana, Namibia and other African countries.

• Incorporating seminars, workshops and industry talks on trends, technology and sustainability to attract professionals.

• Organising exclusive networking events such as cocktail receptions and private dinners to connect industry leaders, designers and investors.

How is the show helping to showcase emerging diamond manufacturers in SA?

The show serves as a powerful platform for emerging South African diamond manufacturers. SDT aims to create dedicated sections within the show that highlight new and upcoming players in the industry.

Collaborations with local industry associations, government entities

and producers will be strengthened to ensure broader participation. The involvement of organisations such as the Department of Trade and Industry and the Jewellery Council will help expand the network and opportunities for emerging manufacturers.

What is the current state of diamond beneficiation in SA?

Diamond beneficiation remains capital-intensive, particularly due to investment in technology. The sector faces ongoing challenges, such as limited access to finance and markets, both locally and internationally.

Furthermore, the rise of synthetic diamonds (lab-grown diamonds) has affected polished diamond prices, making rough diamond purchases riskier for cutters and polishers. As a result, selective buying has become more prevalent.

In response, in January this year, the South African government announced a proposed R100 million fund to support local diamond cutters and polishers. This initiative aims to strengthen domestic diamond processing and enhance global competitiveness.

Despite challenges, strategic government policies, industry collaborations and a focus on sustainability continue to drive the growth of SA’s diamond beneficiation sector. The country’s actively working to secure its position in the global market, while ensuring long-term sustainability.

“In January this year, the South African government announced a proposed R100 million fund to support local diamond cutters and polishers.”

Brilliance in Hong Kong: Highlights from the 2025 Twin Jewellery Shows

The 2025 HKTDC Hong Kong Twin Jewellery Shows once again dazzled the global jewellery industry, bringing together top designers, manufacturers and buyers. With stunning showcases of fine jewellery, rare gemstones and cutting-edge trends, the event reaffirmed Hong Kong’s status as a premier jewellery hub

The 2025 Hong Kong Twin Jewellery Shows, hosted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), once again solidified Hong Kong’s reputation as a global jewellery hub. Taking place across two world-class venues, the twin fairs brought together thousands of exhibitors, buyers and industry leaders, showcasing the latest innovations and trends in fine jewellery and raw materials.

The event was divided into two distinct showcases: the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, which ran from 25-29 February at AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) and the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, held from 27 February-3 March at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). Together, they formed one of the most comprehensive sourcing platforms in the jewellery industry, catering to both manufacturers and retailers.

The Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show at AWE once again proved to be an essential destination for jewellers and designers seeking the finest

raw materials. Exhibitors from around the world presented a dazzling array of loose diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and semi-finished jewellery components. The Hall of Fine Diamonds stood out as a major highlight, showcasing some of the rarest and most exquisite diamonds available on the market. Meanwhile, the Treasures of Nature section captivated attendees with its selection of ethically sourced and uniquely cut gemstones, reflecting the industry’s growing focus on sustainability and responsible sourcing.

Following this, the International Jewellery Show at HKCEC brought luxury and craftsmanship to the fore. The Hall of Extraordinary, as always, was a show-stopper, featuring one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces set with rare diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies. The World of Glamour zone was another standout, displaying the latest collections from prestigious international

“With strong international participation, record-breaking attendance and an impressive array of exhibits, the 2025 Hong Kong Twin Jewellery Shows were hailed as a resounding success.”

jewellery brands, many of which unveiled new designs exclusive to the show.

One of the most noticeable trends at this year’s show was the increasing emphasis on sustainable and lab-grown jewellery. Many exhibitors showcased innovative pieces crafted from recycled precious metals and ethically sourced gemstones, aligning with shifting consumer preferences. Lab-grown diamonds, in particular, saw heightened interest, with several major suppliers introducing new cutting-edge designs that rivalled their mined counterparts in both quality and brilliance.

Technology also played a significant role, with exhibitors demonstrating artificial intelligence-driven jewellery design software, 3D printing techniques and blockchain-based authentication systems. These advancements are set to reshape the industry by offering greater

transparency, efficiency and customisation options for both retailers and consumers.

With strong international participation, record-breaking attendance and an impressive array of exhibits, the 2025 Hong Kong Twin Jewellery Shows were hailed as a resounding success. Buyers from Europe, North America, the Middle East and Asia praised the event for its unparalleled networking opportunities and diverse product offerings, while exhibitors reported robust business activity and promising new partnerships.

As the jewellery industry continues to evolve, the HKTDC Hong Kong Twin Jewellery Shows remain a must-attend event, setting the stage for future trends and innovations. With another successful edition in the books, the industry now looks ahead to 2026, eagerly anticipating what the next chapter in this glittering showcase will bring.

The global jewellery market, valued at an estimated US$353,26 billion, continues to evolve in a rapidly advancing technological landscape. With artificial intelligence (AI), automation and cutting-edge equipment driving industry growth, businesses must stay ahead by integrating innovation into their operations. Tennille Hoge from Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies highlights the increasing importance of advanced diamond testing technologies in maintaining product integrity and consumer trust.

One of the most significant shifts in the industry is the rise of synthetic diamonds, particularly those produced using high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) methods. Hoge notes that these lab-grown diamonds are indistinguishable from natural ones to the naked eye are now manufactured in large quantities, especially in China. While synthetic diamonds cater to a specific market, undisclosed labgrown stones entering the supply chain pose a serious challenge.

Distinguishing between natural and synthetic diamonds is not just about ethics – it is a legal and financial necessity. Consumers rely on jewellers for transparency, yet unintentional misrepresentation of synthetic stones as natural diamonds could constitute fraud. Historically, industry self-regulation has provided only voluntary guidelines for identifying and disclosing diamonds, synthetic diamonds, and imitations. However, as undisclosed synthetic diamonds become more prevalent, stricter measures and technological solutions are required.

Investing in reliable diamond verification instruments is no longer optional – it is an industry stan -

Talking tech with Tennille Hoge

The South African jewellery industry is rich in craftsmanship and creativity, but standing out in a saturated market requires more than just exceptional designs

dard. These devices, also known as synthetic diamond screening or detection instruments, safeguard businesses against misrepresentation and help maintain consumer confidence.

Hoge explains that gem-quality diamonds contain structural defects caused by trace elements like nitrogen and boron. These unique characteristics allow modern verification instruments to detect subtle differences between natural and synthetic stones. Technological advancements enable quick, accurate testing, ensuring that every stone in the supply chain is correctly identified and disclosed.

Consumers today demand full transparency about the origin and authenticity of their purchases.

With accurate disclosure backed by third-party-tested verification instruments, jewellers can reduce significant risk of contamination.

To uphold the integrity of the diamond pipeline, Hoge advises businesses to take proactive steps, including:

• Investing in certified diamond verification instruments.

• Requesting warranties from suppliers to verify authenticity.

• Knowing their counter-parties and customers to prevent fraud.

• Enhancing security systems to prevent “stone-switching” incidents.

• Segregating product flows and never handling natural and synthetic diamonds in the same room.

By implementing these best practices and using tested instruments, jewellers can protect both their reputations and their customers.

Technology is reshaping the diamond and jewellery industry, with verification tools ensuring trust and transparency. As synthetic diamonds become more widespread, Hoge stresses that businesses must adapt by adopting reliable testing technology. Finally, a simple yet essential reminder from Hoge: a diamond’s sparkle can be dulled by the touch of a finger. Just as facets act like mirrors, they work best when clean. Always ensure diamonds are dry and spotless before testing for the most accurate results.

By embracing these innovations and best practices, the jewellery industry can continue to thrive in an era of technological advancements and evolving consumer expectations.

* Disclamer: Seek expert advice from knowledgeable suppliers of equipment to explain the limitations and correct application of any brand of synthetic diamond screener.

Tools of the Trade

As the jewellery industry continues to evolve, staying ahead of the curve means embracing the latest tools, technologies and machinery that enhance both creativity and efficiency. This month, we are spotlighting innovations that are making waves in the diamond testing sector

The SmartPro MAX Diamond Multi-Tester is a versatile fi ve-in-one device designed for precise and effortless testing of diamonds and simulants. Using advanced thermal and optical technology, it features a patented two-in-one probe to detect various stones, including natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds (CVD/HPHT), moissanite, cubic zirconia and other simulants. The tester accommodates stones from 0.0210ct, whether loose or mounted, with a colour range of D-J, offering flexibility for all diamond types.

With a colourful capacitive touchscreen display, the SmartPro MAX provides clear results and supports 11 languages. Bluetooth connectivity integrates with the SmartPro Mobile app, while its rotation feature ensures ease for both right- and left-handed users. Powered by a rechargeable, replaceable battery, making it ideal for quick, on-the-go testing.

Smart Pro Optimum Diamond Multi-Tester

The SmartPro Optimum Diamond Multi-Tester is a three-in-one tool that identifies natural diamonds, synthetic moissanite and lab-grown diamonds (CVD/HPHT) using UV LED technology and fibre-optics. It tests stones from 0,015-10ct, whether loose or mounted, covering a broad range of shapes and sizes.

Effective for diamonds with colour grades D-M, it is easy to use for both right- and left-handed users, allowing quick identification of natural, synthetic, or lab-grown stones. The 2,4” touch-screen LCD simplifies navigation and the device operates via USB power.

This tester is an essential tool for jewellers and collectors, offering simplicity and accuracy in distinguishing between natural diamonds, moissanite and lab-grown stones.

Aura Synthetic Diamond Scanner

The SmartPro Aura is an advanced synthetic diamond screener designed for testing both mounted and loose diamonds, detecting stones as small as 0,05 mm. Aura separates lab-grown diamonds (CVD/HPHT) from natural earth mined diamond, simulants and immitation stones, helping to eliminate pipeline risks in diamond exchanges. The device scans up to 576 diamonds in a single

scan using a chessboard confi guration, off ering fast, reliable results.

The Aura labels non-diamonds like moissanite as “undefined” and includes phosphorescent and fluorescence tests. With a built-in Samsung S9+ smartphone, it operates without the need for extra computers or screens, simplifying the process for users.

The SmartPro Aura offers two modes for loose stone detection and two for jewellery detection, including a 360° view for rings and jewellery. It provides automatic test results. Portable and energy-efficient, the package includes the tester, trays, attachments for rings and bracelets, a user’s manual and power cables. This tool is a must-have for professionals in the industry.

SmartPro MAX Diamond Multi-Tester

BYL Diamonds: from rough to market

Established as a premier diamond trading company, BYL Diamonds specialises in manufacturing and distributing high-quality diamonds to retailers, wholesalers and jewellery manufacturers worldwide

For many years, BYL Diamonds has been a trusted name in the global diamond industry, renowned for its expertise, integrity and commitment to excellence. With a strong foundation built on precision, trust and innovation, BYL Diamonds continues to set the standard for excellence in the diamond trade.

BYL Diamonds has earned a reputation for its meticulous attention to quality and craftsmanship. The company offers an extensive selection of certified and non-certified diamonds, catering to a wide range of clientele, from jewellers crafting one-of-a-kind masterpieces to large-scale retailers seeking consistency and reliability. With a keen eye for detail, BYL Diamonds ensures that every diamond, whether melee, a fancy shape, or a large stone, is expertly cut and polished to maximise brilliance, fire and scintillation.

ensures a seamless selection process, providing stones that align with the highest industry standards.

Headquartered in South Africa, a country renowned for its exquisite diamonds, BYL Diamonds has built a strong international presence and recently expanded to the United Kingdom. Despite its global reach, the company remains committed to delivering personalised service, ensuring each transaction is conducted with professionalism, efficiency and transparency.

working with mines who share its values of ethical sourcing, fair labour practices and environmental responsibility.

Beyond compliance, BYL Diamonds actively promotes sustainability initiatives within the industry, recognising that today’s consumers demand greater transparency and accountability. By fostering responsible sourcing and supporting initiatives that enhance community development in diamond-producing regions, the company is helping to shape a more sustainable future for the trade.

What sets BYL Diamonds apart is not just its extensive inventory, but its ability to supply diamonds that meet the specific needs of each client. Whether customers require specific carat weights, colours, clarities or cuts, BYL Diamonds’ team of specialists

With an in-depth understanding of the diamond trade’s evolving landscape, BYL Diamonds stays ahead of market trends, adapting its offerings to meet changing demands. The company prides itself on its ability to provide both high-volume commercial stones and rare, investment-grade diamonds, making it a preferred partner for businesses of all sizes.

As a responsible player in the diamond industry, BYL Diamonds upholds the highest ethical and environmental standards. The company strictly adheres to the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, ensuring that every diamond it trades is conflict-free. BYL Diamonds is committed to

With an unwavering dedication to quality, professionalism and innovation, BYL Diamonds has cemented itself as a trusted partner for jewellers, manufacturers and retailers who seek consistency, expertise and excellence. The company’s ability to combine traditional diamond trading values with modern market insights makes it a leader in an ever-evolving industry.

Whether you are looking for exquisite loose diamonds, unique fancy shapes or a reliable long-term trading partner, BYL Diamonds remains a beacon of trust, excellence and innovation. Its legacy, built over decades, continues to shine bright, setting the gold standard for quality and service in the diamond trade.

The declining prices of lab-grown diamonds: what is driving the drop?

Lab-grown diamond prices have dropped significantly in recent years, not due to declining demand, but because of rapid technological advancements and oversupply. While consumer interest remains strong, especially among younger buyers, the market is struggling to balance soaring production with sustainable pricing, leading to continued price declines

Lab-grown diamonds have become increasingly popular in recent years, offering a high-quality, ethical and costeffective alternative to natural diamonds. Despite their growing demand, prices for lab-grown diamonds have plummeted. While some may assume this decline is due to weakening interest, the reality is quite different. The primary reason behind the price drop is oversupply, driven by technological advancements and an increasing number of manufacturers entering the market.

How much have prices dropped?

When lab-grown diamonds first entered the jewellery market, they were priced only 10-20% lower than natural diamonds. However, as competition has grown and production methods have become more efficient, the price gap has widened significantly. By 2023, lab-grown diamonds were being sold at discounts of up to

90% compared with natural diamonds, though the exact percentage varies depending on the size, quality and retailer.

Industry reports indicate that between 2020 and 2023, the average price of lab-grown diamonds fell by approximately 74%. For larger stones, the decline has been particularly steep: prices for diamonds above 3ct dropped by more than 10% in 2021 alone, while those over 4ct declined by nearly 9%. This trend is expected to continue as supply continues to outpace demand.

Oversupply: the main driver of falling prices

The biggest reason for the price decline is the rapid increase in supply. Initially, lab-grown diamonds were produced by

a small number of manufacturers and the process was expensive and time-consuming, keeping supplies limited and prices relatively high. However, advancements in chemical vapour deposition and high-pressure, high-temperature technologies have transformed the industry.

What once took weeks to grow can now be done in just a few days, making mass production easier and significantly reducing costs. More manufacturers have entered the market and as a result, lab-grown diamonds are being produced in much larger quantities than the market can absorb at high prices. This oversupply has intensified price competition among producers, driving retail prices down.

Some companies have attempted to create differentiation by offering fancy-coloured lab-grown diamonds or marketing their products as more sustainable, but these efforts have not been enough to prevent overall price declines.

Strong demand, but not enough to keep prices high

Consumer interest in lab-grown diamonds remains strong, especially among millennials and

Gen Z buyers, who appreciate their affordability and ethical appeal. The market for synthetic diamonds has expanded significantly, with many jewellers incorporating them into their collections.

However, despite this growing demand, the surge in production has far exceeded market needs, leading to continued price drops. The luxury jewellery sector has also played a role in this dynamic. Some high-end brands have been hesitant to embrace lab-grown diamonds, concerned that their aff ordability makes them seem less exclusive. Unlike natural diamonds, which derive value from their rarity, lab-grown diamonds can be produced at scale, making them a tougher sell for prestigeconscious buyers.

Will prices stabilise?

Given current trends, lab-grown diamond prices are likely to decline further as production methods continue to improve and costs decrease. However, some factors could help slow or stabilise the price drop in the future:

• Diversiﬁcation into other industries: Lab-grown diamonds are increasingly used in semi-conductors, medical devices and quantum computing, which could help absorb excess supply and support price stability.

• Brand diﬀerentiation: Some premium brands, such as De Beers’ Lightbox and VRAI, have managed to maintain higher price points through strategic marketing and controlled production.

• Industry consolidation: If weaker producers exit the market, supply could tighten, slowing the price decline.

Despite these potential stabilising factors, short-term price drops remain likely and the jewellery industry must continue adapting to these shifts.

What this means for jewellers

For jewellers, falling lab-grown diamond prices present both challenges and opportunities. On the one hand, profi t margins are shrinking, making it harder for retailers to maintain high mark-ups. On the other hand, lower prices could attract a broader customer base, increasing overall sales volume.

To stay competitive, some brands are experimenting with unique cuts, custom colours and sustainability messaging to differentiate their lab-grown offerings. Meanwhile, the natural diamond industry has responded by lowering prices on smaller mined diamonds and reinforcing messaging about rarity and emotional value to sustain demand.

As the industry adapts, the key question remains: how can jewellers position lab-grown diamonds in a way that retains value, even as prices continue to decline?

The full picture: are all lab-grown diamonds dropping in price?

While lab-grown diamond prices have broadly declined, not all segments of the market have been affected equally. Some brands, such as De Beers’ Lightbox and VRAI, maintain higher prices through brand positioning and controlled production. Fancy-coloured lab-grown diamonds, especially blues and pinks, have also seen less severe price drops, as they are still relatively rare.

Although wholesale prices have fallen dramatically, some jewellers continue to sell lab-grown diamonds at relatively high retail prices, increasing their profi t margins. Many consumers still see value in lab-grown diamonds as an affordable alternative to natural stones.

Mined diamond companies have countered the rise of lab-grown diamonds by lowering prices on natural diamonds and doubling down on marketing messages emphasising rarity and emotional significance.

Further price declines, however, seem likely in the short term, but market stabilisation could occur if weaker producers exit the industry or if industrial applications for lab-grown diamonds expand significantly.

The bottom line? Lab-grown diamond prices are falling, but the market remains dynamic and evolving, with multiple factors influencing the future trajectory.

Lichaba Diamond Mine: crafting quality and innovation

Pioneering excellence in diamond mining & processing Nestled 150 km outside Kimberley, South Africa, Lichaba Diamond Mine has been a shining force in the diamond industry since its establishment in 2019. Known for its high-quality diamonds, cuttingedge mining techniques and dedication to sustainable practices, Lichaba has earned its place as a leader in the South African diamond sector.

Operating as an open-cast mine, Lichaba Diamond Mine is committed to responsible extraction and value addition, ensuring that its diamonds are not just mined, but refined to perfection before reaching the global market.

Innovation at the heart of mining operations

At the core of Lichaba’s success lies its investment in state-of-the-art mining technology and a highly skilled workforce. With over 130 professionals, many from Kimberley and surrounding areas, the mine actively contributes to local employment and economic growth.

From unearthing raw diamonds to preparing them for the world’s most prestigious markets, Lichaba's operations reﬂect a seamless blend of efficiency, expertise and ethical responsibility.

From mine to market – the power of value addition

Unlike many mining operations that solely focus on extraction, Lichaba takes it a step further through its subsidiary, Diamond PJ Works. Operating under the trade name Lichaba Diamonds, this division ensures that 80% of its mined diamonds undergo cutting and polishing before being distributed globally.

This value-addition process not only enhances the quality and brilliance of Lichaba’s diamonds, but also strengthens South Africa’s position in the international luxury market. With a strong demand from buyers in the USA and Italy, Lichaba Diamonds has positioned itself as a premier supplier of exquisite, ethically sourced gems.

Sustainability and ethical responsibility: a commitment to the future

Lichaba Diamond Mine is more than just a business – it is a responsible corporate citizen. With a firm belief in sustainable mining, the company actively works to minimise its environmental footprint, while uplifting local communities.

By adhering to strict environmental regulations and investing in community development initiatives, from education and healthcare to

infrastructure projects, Lichaba ensures that its impact goes beyond diamonds.

A vision for the future

As Lichaba Diamond Mine celebrates six years of success, it remains focused on:

• Expanding production efficiency through cutting-edge mining and processing technology.

• Investing in innovation to maintain its competitive edge in the global diamond market.

Strengthening global market reach, building long-term relationships with elite clients worldwide.

Empowering local communities by creating more employment and training opportunities.

• Upholding sustainability by balancing economic growth with environmental responsibility.

Setting the standard for excellence

Lichaba Diamond Mine’s commitment to integrity, quality and innovation continues to set it apart in the diamond industry. Through its integration of mining and expert craftsmanship, the company is not only producing diamonds, but is shaping the future of South African luxury and global prestige.

With an eye on growth and sustainability, Lichaba Diamond Mine is set to remain a trailblazer in the diamond industry, delivering brilliance from South Africa to the world.

CPM engages with future jewellery professionals in Limpopo

Cape Precious Metals (CPM), a leading supplier of refined precious metals, recently engaged with aspiring jewellers during a visit to the Limpopo Jewellery Business Incubator, Zurel Bros and the University of Johannesburg. The sessions focused on industry insights, refining processes and the role of technology in modern jewellery design, reinforcing CPM’s commitment to nurturing future talent

Aspiring jewellers in Limpopo recently had the opportunity to gain industry insights and hands-on knowledge during a visit from Cape Precious Metals (CPM), one of South Africa’s leading suppliers of refined precious metals. CPM Sales Executive Shannon Mackay visited the Limpopo Jewellery Business Incubator, Zurel Bros and the University of Johannesburg (UJ) to engage with students and artisans refining their craft.

The visits aimed to bridge the gap between education and industry by providing students with a deeper understanding of precious metal refining, jewellery production and emerging technologies in the trade. Mackay also introduced attendees to the role of the Jewellery Council of South Africa, highlighting the benefits of industry membership and professional networking. To keep sessions interactive, she

hosted a pop quiz, encouraging students to test their knowledge in a fun and engaging way.

At UJ, Mackay was joined by her colleague Bianca for a session that sparked enthusiasm among students and staff alike. A key focus of the discussion was CPM’s refining processes, particularly the importance of proper waste management in workshops, including the use of sink traps to recover precious metals. Students were eager to learn more about best practices and asked insightful questions about refining and production techniques.

Another highlight of the visit was the discussion on computeraided design (CAD) and its growing influence on jewellery manufacturing. With digital tools and innovative casting techniques becoming more prevalent, students were introduced to how technology is shaping the future of jewellery design.

The impact of the sessions was evident, as many students took the

opportunity to purchase essential materials such as silver, solder, saw blades and jewellery-cleaner, further demonstrating their commitment to their craft.

By engaging with educational institutions, CPM continues to play an active role in nurturing emerging talent in the jewellery sector. With the industry evolving rapidly, initiatives like these help ensure that the next generation of jewellers is equipped with the skills and knowledge needed to succeed.

“The visits aimed to bridge the gap between education and industry by providing students with a deeper understanding of precious metal refining, jewellery production and emerging technologies in the trade.”

How diamond beneﬁciation is reshaping South Africa

Richard Steenkamp, Senior Sales and Office Manager for De Beers Sightholder Sales SA, explains that diamonds represent something very significant: an opportunity to reshape the country’s economic landscape, drive local skills development and empower communities

Diamonds have long been a symbol of beauty, luxury and economic value.

For South Africa, however, they represent something far more significant: an opportunity to reshape the country’s economic landscape, drive local skills development and empower communities. Through beneficiation – the process of value addition to natural diamonds within the country – the industry is evolving from mere extraction to an engine of sustainable economic growth.

For decades, SA has been known for its rich diamond deposits, but traditionally, much of the value generated from these gems has been realised outside our borders, where they are cut, polished and transformed into high-end jewellery. That narrative is changing. Today, beneficiation is emerging as a powerful tool for economic transformation, ensuring that more of the diamond industry’s wealth is realised within the country, creating jobs, fostering innovation and equipping local artisans with the skills to compete on the global stage.

True beneficiation is not simply about polishing diamonds locally – it is about developing an entire value chain that supports sustainable economic growth. This includes nurturing young designers, equipping artisans with cutting-edge skills, supporting local entrepreneurs in establishing their own jewellery brands and fostering a thriving ecosystem of diamondrelated businesses.

The Shining Light Awards (De Beers Young Designers Initiative), for instance, illustrate the impact of beneficiation in action. Initially launched to showcase South African design talent, the programme has evolved into a platform that not only celebrates creativity, but provides real opportunities for young designers. Many winners have gone on to launch successful brands, merging traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. These success stories are not only individual achievements: they reflect the potential of an entire industry to uplift communities and drive local economic activity.

However, to unlock the full potential of beneficiation, SA must develop a robust and sustainable ecosystem that supports every link in the value chain. This means investing in educational institutions to provide technical training, creating incubation programmes to nurture entrepreneurship and ensuring access to raw materials, developmental funding and global markets. Without these essential elements, beneficiation risks remain a fragmented effort with low impact, rather than contributing to a transformative industry.

The success of beneficiation does not rest on the shoulders of one entity alone. It requires a collective effort between the private sector, government and educational institutions. As a leading player in the diamond industry, the De Beers Group has taken proactive steps to support local beneficiation

through enterprise development initiatives, training programmes and market access opportunities for emerging businesses.

De Beers’ rough diamond sales to local manufacturers, ranging from large-scale operations to small, independent beneficiators, ensure that more diamonds remain in SA for local processing. These businesses, in turn, employ skilled artisans who add value to rough diamonds before they reach consumers. This model creates employment opportunities, strengthens local businesses and ensures that South Africans benefit from the resources extracted from their own soil.

However, challenges remain. Access to funding for local manufacturers, the ability to develop competitive advantages in specific parts of the value chain and the need for business development support for emerging entrepreneurs are all critical areas that require continued focus. Government policies must align with industry efforts to create a conducive environment for beneficiation, ensuring that local manufacturers have both the resources and incentives to succeed.

As the world shifts towards a more ESG-conscious economy, beneficiation takes on even greater importance. Consumers today are increasingly concerned about the ethical and social impact of the products they purchase. Beneficiation provides an opportunity for SA to position itself as a leader in sustainable diamond mining and production, one that prioritises local communities and fair employment to underscore responsible sourcing.

When properly supported, beneficiation is not just about polishing diamonds – it is about unearthing/unleashing potential. It is about ensuring that the brilliance of SA’s diamonds is matched by the bright futures they create for the country’s artisans, entrepreneurs and industry professionals. By working together – industry leaders, policy-makers and educators – SA can carve out a globally competitive, locally beneficial diamond sector that uplifts communities and drives economic growth.

With the right partnerships and vision, the journey of a diamond can begin, flourish and thrive right here in SA, creating lasting impact, one polished gem at a time.

“Beyond extraction, businesses that refine, transport and supply the industry enable job creation and industrialisation, as well as stronger trade ties.”

DIAMOND REFLECTIONS DIAMOND REFLECTIONS

Evan M. Smith and Matthew F. Hardman

Eclogite: Diamond-Encrusted Ancient Seaﬂoor SPONSORED

Earth’s surface is divided into tectonic plates, and the ones that make up the ocean floor are destined to sink. Sheets of oceanic crust typically bend and sink down into Earth’s interior at so-called subduction zones. Occasionally these banished slivers of ancient seafloor may become a sort of unexpected canvas to be painted with a sparkling sea of diamonds. In fact, ancient seafloor rocks that have been incorporated into old and thick parts of continents are one of the most important mantle substrates or “host rocks” for diamond growth (Stachel et al., 2022a). This particular host rock, known as eclogite, can be found as distinct fragments, called xenoliths, at some diamond mines and is also represented by mineral inclusions in diamonds (figure 1). Our current understanding of where and how diamonds crystallize is largely based on mineral inclusions trapped inside them. The diamonds we mine were brought up to Earth’s surface by kimberlites and related magmatic rocks, but they did not crystallize directly from this magma. Rather, the diamonds formed by independent processes and are usually millions or billions of years older than the kimberlitic magmas that inadvertently swept them up to the surface. Most diamonds (~98%) were formed at a depth of about 150–200 km within the continental lithosphere, essentially in old and thick parts of continents. Based on the relative abundance of mineral inclusions in a studied set of 2,844 diamonds, the three principal mantle host rocks here are peridotite (65%), eclogite (33%), and websterite (2%) (Stachel and Harris, 2008). Eclogitic diamonds constitute a significant portion of the gem diamond market, and their features embody the dynamic processes unique to Earth.

and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).

The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

(DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also

What Is Eclogite?

Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

Oceaniclithosphere

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

Typically, eclogite refers to a colorful red and green metamorphic rock that is made up of two key minerals: grossular-almandine-pyrope garnet and omphacitic clinopyroxene (figure 2) (Winter, 2010). Additional minerals sometimes present include rutile, coesite, kyanite, and iron-rich sulfides. All of these can be encountered as mineral inclusions in diamond. Eclogite can form in several ways, but the dominant process involves oceanic crust sinking down into the mantle (by subduction). The basalt and gabbro that make up oceanic crust undergo a transformation, known as metamorphism, as a result of changes in pressure and temperature that cause some minerals to break down and new ones to form. Metamorphic rocks are sometimes classified into groups, called metamorphic facies, based on the pressure and temperature conditions at which they formed. One of these groups is known as eclogite facies. Any given metamorphic facies encompasses metamorphic rocks that form under the same range of pressure and temperature conditions, regardless of what the exact starting rock, or protolith, might have been. Figure 3 shows where the eclogite facies and other metamorphic facies fall within a pressure vs. temperature diagram. When basalt or gabbro from the oceanic crust get subducted, they metamorphose through zeolite and blueschist facies before transforming into eclogite at depths of about 50 km. If the eclogite were carried deeper still, the clinopyroxene would begin to break down between 300 and 400 km, followed

Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).

Figure 1. Mineral inclusions in diamond. This connected pair of green clinopyroxene and orange garnet indicates that diamond growth occurred within an eclogitic mantle host rock. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2 mm.

Figure 2. Polished slice of an eclogite xenolith. This backlit specimen shows the typical orange garnet and green clinopyroxene that make up eclogite. Recovered from the Roberts Victor mine in South Africa, this eclogite xenolith (sample JJG-243) is part of the Mantle Room collection curated by the University of Cape Town. Photomicrograph by Evan M. Smith; field of view approximately 5 cm.

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

by the appearance of a new phase, stishovite (SiO2) (Irifune and Ringwood, 1987). At this point, it would technically not be eclogite but could be described by the more general terms metabasalt or metagabbro. With varying pressure and temperature, the mineralogy can change drastically, even if the bulk composition of the rock remains unchanged.

Ancient Seaﬂoor and the Process of Subduction

bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).

Figure 3. Metamorphic facies diagram. Each field in this pressure vs. temperature chart represents a group of metamorphic rocks that share similar characteristics. Eclogite is a highpressure metamorphic facies as well as a rock name. The orange line gives a hypothetical pathway for the subduction of oceanic crust. Boundaries are gradational and do not actually exist as sharp divisions in P-T space. Adapted from Winter (2010).

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Inclusions (figure 1) and xenoliths (figure 2) show that eclogite has served as a host rock for diamond growth at depths of about 150–200 km. But that eclogite has actually traveled a long way from its birthplace. Those same eclogitic inclusions and xenoliths have chemical and isotopic characteristics indicating that the protolith originated at Earth’s surface as oceanic crust. Present-day ocean floors are composed of oceanic crust with an underlying layer of mantle peridotite, which together form a rigid plate called lithosphere that “floats” upon the convecting upper mantle because it is less dense (figure 4). Oceanic crust is generated at mid-ocean ridges, where the two plates on either side of the ridge spread apart from one another. The gap left between the diverging plates is filled by rock that flows up from beneath and partially melts, producing the magma that will make up newly formed crust. When these magmas erupt at the seafloor, they cool quickly and form a dark, fine-grained rock called basalt. At deeper levels within a mid-ocean ridge, the magma cools slowly and crystallizes as coarser-grained rocks, chiefly gabbro.

Oceaniclithosphere

Oceanic crust is produced continuously at mid-ocean ridges on the ocean floor. Old crust is pushed farther from the ridge as new crust is produced. Old oceanic crust will cool, increasing its density. After millions of years, and driven by continual mid-ocean spreading, the oceanic crust will eventually collide with continental crust, which is generally much less dense due to its diﬀerent mineralogy and elemental composition. When the oceanic crust collides with continental crust, the large diﬀerence in density leads the oceanic crust to subduct into the upper mantle beneath the continental crust (figure 4).

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

Subduction is the process by which a plate on the earth’s surface moves beneath another and sinks into the mantle. During subduction, oceanic crust undergoes a progressive sequence of metamorphic reactions as pressure and temperature increase with depth (figure 3). This increases the density of the rock, which may continue to subduct until it transforms into eclogite. Occasionally, subducted eclogite is incorporated into the deep roots beneath continents, where the majority of diamond formation occurs, as shown by the green and orange lenses in figure 4.

Geoscientists can inspect aspects of eclogite geochemistry and isotopic composition to reconstruct its history. For example, when basalt forms at a mid-ocean ridge, it has an oxygen isotope composition that is similar to the upper mantle source region from which it was derived.

Zeolite

Greenschist

Blueschist

Eclogite

Amphibolite

Granulite

Hornfels

PrehnitePumpellyite

Oceanic

Asthenosphere (Convecting mantle) Oceanic

Continental crust

Continental lithospheric mantle

Figure 4. Diagram of a mid-ocean ridge and subduction zone. At mid-ocean ridges, the upper mantle upwells and melts, and the melts crystallize as oceanic crust. The oceanic crust spreads away from the ridge and subducts into the mantle beneath continental crust, which is more buoyant. Diamonds may be stable in the deep roots of continents, within the continental lithospheric mantle. They may form in association with mantle peridotite or eclogite. Kimberlite may rip diamond and mantle rocks from these deep roots as they erupt to the surface.

When seawater interacts with oceanic crust, however, it can change the oxygen isotope composition of the rock, shifting it away from the original mantle-like value. Oxygen isotope compositions of minerals in eclogite that are outside the range of the typical ambient mantle are considered evidence that the eclogite had a protolith that was exposed to seawater prior to subduction (Jacob, 2004; Korolev et al., 2018, and references therein).

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

magmatic sources and subsequently modified by melting and other processes in the earth.

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Eclogites also have relatively high concentrations of sodium compared with many other mantle rocks. This sodium comes from plagioclase in the oceanic protoliths, but during subduction the plagioclase becomes unstable and breaks down, with its constituent elements—including sodium— redistributed to new minerals formed during metamorphism.

Deep-focus earthquake activity

Oceaniclithosphere

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

With the proper analytical equipment, elements with extremely low abundance (e.g., concentrations at the parts per million or billion level) can be measured in eclogite minerals. Among these are the rare earth elements (REE), which are a group of 17 elements including the lanthanides (lanthanum, cerium, praseodymium, neodymium, promethium, samarium, europium, gadolinium, terbium, dysprosium, holmium, erbium, thulium, ytterbium, and lutetium) plus scandium and yttrium. Slight diﬀerences in the behavior of these elements during geological processes can lead to changes in their relative concentrations, imparting a sort of chemical imprint of a rock’s history. REE concentrations in igneous rocks can be inherited from their

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

In many mantle rocks, REE patterns will have a smooth trend, with the concentration of europium being intermediate to the elements samarium and gadolinium (figure 5). Some eclogites, however, may have a positive or negative europium “anomaly” when compared with samarium and gadolinium (figure 5). The mineral plagioclase tends to have strong positive europium anomalies, as europium incorporates into plagioclase very strongly relative to other REE. Consequently, an igneous rock that accumulates plagioclase (such as gabbro in oceanic crust) may inherit a positive europium anomaly. A rock that forms from a magma that previously crystallized plagioclase (such as an oceanic lava) will have a negative europium anomaly. As plagioclase is only stable in the shallow portions of the earth (<30 km, approximately), eclogites with detectable europium anomalies are generally inferred to have protoliths that formed at shallow depths. Seeing this signature in mantlederived rocks, such as eclogite xenoliths at a diamond mine, requires that those rocks formed near the surface and were carried down into the mantle by subduction (and in the case of xenoliths, these rocks have been brought back up again by kimberlites). Eclogite xenoliths really have come a long way.

Recycled Carbon and Its Contribution to Diamond Growth

Not all carbon atoms are identical. By paying close attention to diﬀerences in their mass (carbon isotopes), geologists have observed that diamonds formed in eclogite are distinguished by an unusual signature (figure 6). The signature suggests that eclogitic diamonds contain “recycled” carbon that was subducted from Earth’s surface down into the mantle, where diamond growth occurred (figure 4).

A typical carbon atom has 6 protons and 6 neutrons in its nucleus, which sum to give its atomic mass, 12. Carbon-12 (12C) is the most common isotope of carbon. About 1% of naturally occurring carbon atoms have an extra neutron and therefore a mass of 13. Carbon-13 (13C) is the second-most abundant isotope of carbon. Given that 12C and 13C have different masses, they behave slightly differently during chemical reactions. When plants grow, for example, photosynthesis favors 12C. As a result, plants are enriched in 12C (and depleted in 13C) relative to the initial carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Scientists can gain insight into many carbon-bearing materials by measuring the relative proportions of 12C and 13C. For any measurement, the 13C/12C ratio is reported in terms of how different it is from an agreed-upon standard (a reference known as the Vienna Pee Dee Belemnite).

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

This deviation is written as δ13C (pronounced “delta C thirteen”) expressed in parts per thousand (per mille, ‰) and is calculated as δ13C = [(13C/12C)sample/(13C/12C) standard−1]×1000.

Figure 6 shows δ13C values for peridotitic and eclogitic diamonds. The histograms convey information about sources of carbon and potentially about the chemical process of diamond formation as well. In both histograms, the large peak centered at –5‰ corresponds to the average composition of carbon spread throughout the mantle (Cartigny, 2005). Eclogitic diamonds, however, possess a conspicuous tail of negative values or “light” isotopic compositions. These negative values are one of the most debated features of diamond geology, with no firm consensus on the exact processes at play (Cartigny, 2005).

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption Continental lithosphere

PATTERNS

NORMALIZED TO CHONDRITE

0.01

Deep-focus earthquake activity

The most accepted general view is that the negative isotopic trend of eclogitic diamonds stems from subducted carbon (Li et al., 2019; Stachel et al., 2022b). Subducted carbon is thought to mix with the ambient carbon already present in the mantle to give the range of observed carbon isotopic characteristics in eclogitic diamonds (figure 6). The recycled carbon could come in the form of sediments and altered oceanic crust containing organic matter and carbonates (biogenic and abiogenic) (Li et al., 2019). Taking into account the covariations in nitrogen concentration and isotopes suggests that eclogitic diamond formation involves multiple subducted ingredients that mix in complex ways during the process (Stachel et al., 2022b). Although there are unresolved details, the evidence is strong that a portion of the carbon in eclogitic diamonds is subducted. These diamonds are a physical manifestation of the deep and ancient geological carbon cycle.

Eclogitic Diamond Ages

Oceaniclithosphere

Solidus of carbonated MORB

Carb. melting

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Negative Eu-anomaly

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Carbonated slab melting Hydrous uid

No Eu-anomaly

Positive Eu-anomaly

La Ce Pr Nd Sm Eu Gd Tb Dy Ho Er Tm Yb Lu

Figure 5. REE patterns for three eclogites with diﬀerent europium anomalies. The concentrations of all elements are normalized to the elemental concentrations in chondritic meteorites (McDonough and Sun, 1995).

Through the incredible phenomenon of radioactive decay, many rocks and minerals have a sort of built-in natural clock. Radioactive decay is the process whereby unstable radioactive elements break down over time, with diﬀerent elements each having a predictable decay rate. Several decay systems apply to various types of inclusions in diamonds, and their analysis has led to our understanding that diamonds are millions to billions of years old (Smit and Shirey, 2019). The oldest diamonds are 3.5 billion years old, and diamonds have been forming episodically since that time, spanning three-quarters of Earth’s history. Their antiquity combined with their deep mantle origin makes diamonds a unique record of large-scale geological evolution.

Cold slab Avg mantle DHMS

Breakdown of hydrous phases

For example, diamond ages may provide a time stamp to mark the beginning of modern-style plate tectonics. Many of us are at least vaguely familiar with the notion that roughly 200 million years ago, the continents to the east and west of the Atlantic Ocean were nestled together in the

REE

supercontinent Pangaea. The Atlantic grew and opened up as Pangaea broke apart. The subduction zone and mid-ocean ridge spreading center depicted in figure 4 are integral mechanisms that explain how tectonic plates move, how new oceans form, and how old ones close and vanish. This dynamic surface structure is unique to Earth. Our planet did not always have plate tectonics, however, and at one point, its surface was a giant magma ocean. So when exactly did things change and the processes we observe today take hold?

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

Geologists have used several methods to constrain the timing of when plate tectonics began, including clues from diamonds. Comparing samples of diﬀerent ages reveals that they are not all equal across time. Diamonds older than 3.0 billion years are exclusively peridotitic, whereas eclogitic diamonds only become prevalent among those younger than 3.0 billion years. This change arguably marked the first major episode of subduction of oceanic crust beneath a continent and the onset of the Wilson-cycle style of movements that characterize modern plate tectonics (Shirey and Richardson, 2011). Eﬀectively, this model suggests there are no eclogitic diamonds older than 3.0 billion years because oceanic crust was not yet being subducted and incorporated as eclogite into the continental lithospheric mantle.

Figure 6. Figure 6. Carbon isotope histograms for peridotitic and eclogitic diamonds. While both histograms show a mode centered near –5‰ that corresponds to mantle carbon, eclogitic diamonds have a tail of negative values stretching beyond –40‰ that is thought to reflect subducted organic carbon. Data are from Stachel et al. (2022b).

more abundant than might be expected based on the relatively small amount of eclogite in the mantle.

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

Most of the continental lithospheric mantle is made up of peridotite (>95 vol.%; figure 4). Conversely, eclogite has a low global abundance (<5 vol.%) (Dawson and Stephens, 1975; Schulze, 1989), yet some mines can contain much higher abundances of eclogitic diamonds, to the point where they dominate the diamond population, such as at Koidu (Sierra Leone) and Orapa (Botswana). One in three diamonds have eclogitic vs. peridotitic mineral inclusions, indicating that relatively large proportion of diamonds are associated with eclogite (Stachel and Harris, 2008). While not all eclogites are associated with diamond, small volumes of eclogite in some kimberlites could be indicative of diamond-rich deposits.

Oceaniclithosphere

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

Economic Importance of Eclogitic Diamonds

Finding an economic diamond deposit is no trivial matter. Even after locating one or more kimberlites (figure 7) or lamproites, it is a challenging exercise to evaluate the quantity and quality of diamonds. A key variable that can make or break a potential mine is the presence of eclogitic diamonds. In some deposits, eclogitic diamonds are much

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

Kimberlites can be very small (as small as 50 m across) and show very little topographic relief, making them diﬃcult to find. Over millions of years, these sites may become completely covered by vegetation or water (forming lakes). In these cases, kimberlites can be located by exploiting their physical properties, as they erupt through existing rock and may have diﬀerent magnetic or gravimetric properties from the surrounding material. Aerial surveys that passively examine the landscape, searching for gravitational or magnetic anomalies, could potentially identify a kimberlite.

A more direct approach is to use kimberlite indicator minerals (figure 8). Even in kimberlites that are diamondbearing, diamonds may be present in abundances at the parts per million level. Conversely, rocks that are associated with diamonds are generally much more abundant and

Sedimentary rocks

Metamorphic rocks

Present-day erosive surface

Crater zone

mantle peridotite

For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-

easier to locate. Minerals in these rocks commonly have elemental compositions that reflect the rock from which they derived and, occasionally, an association with diamond itself. For example, there is an observed association between diamond and mantle peridotites that are very chemically depleted (i.e., experienced substantial melting in the mantle, removing elemental components from their structure) (Gurney, 1984). The compositions of the garnets in these peridotites are characterized by low calcium contents and high chromium contents (Grütter et al., 2004). Garnets in eclogite are very diﬀerent and instead have low chromium contents and variable calcium (Grütter et al., 2004). Given the disproportionate number of eclogitic diamonds compared with the global abundance of eclogite, even a small number of eclogitic garnets, such as the orange grains in figure 8, may indicate an economically valuable deposit. Minerals within kimberlite can be redistributed by rivers or glaciers, so if a garnet with composition similar to those associated with diamond is found in stream sediment or glacial till, this could indicate that a kimberlite deposit—

Depth (km)

zone

Figure 7. Diagram of a hypothetical kimberlite pipe. The kimberlite erupts through existing rocks and geologic formations (“country rock”). The shape, size, and distribution of rocks within a kimberlite pipe are highly variable from occurrence to occurrence. The country rock is arbitrary in this diagram and will vary based on the local geology into which the kimberlite erupts. The majority of kimberlites are not diamond-bearing (Kjarsgaard et al., 2022)

Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption

Continental lithosphere

Deep-focus earthquake activity

High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds

Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds

Lithospheric diamonds

possibly a diamond-bearing one—occurs upstream. When identified, a kimberlite deposit could one day be developed into an operating diamond mine.

Oceaniclith

Carbonated slab melting

Hydrous uid

Figure 8. Broken-up sample of kimberlite from the Ekati diamond mine in northern Canada featuring colorful mantle indicator mineral grains. The bright green diopside and purple garnets are from peridotite, and the orange garnets (indicated by arrows) are from eclogite. Photo by Evan M. Smith; field of view approximately 2 cm.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS: Dr. Evan M. Smith is a senior research scientist with GIA in New York, and Dr. Matthew F. Hardman is a research scientist at GIA in Carlsbad, California.

Solidus of carbonated MORB phases

Archean basement

Root zone

Diatreme

Volcanic rocks

Diamond

Continental

Mantle eclogite

Did you know?

Scientists have discovered that diamonds, when subjected to intense laser light, can emit sound waves. This phenomenon, known as stimulated Brillouin scattering, reveals information about the diamond's internal structure and purity. This is used in very high-tech analysis of diamonds.

The origins of jewellery hallmarking can be traced as far back as 1238 AD, when the ﬁrst standards of gold and silver quality were oﬃcially laid down. However, the true beginning of hallmarking as we know it today dates from 1300 AD and was introduced by a statute of Edward I, where it was decreed that no piece of silver “was to depart out of the hands of the workers” until it had been assayed (tested) and marked with a leopard’s head.

In 2003, thieves broke into the Antwerp Diamond Centre in Belgium, considered an impregnable fortress. They stole $100 million worth of diamonds, gems and cash. The mastermind was caught, thanks to DNA evidence from an unﬁnished sandwich.

The Witwatersrand Basin, the source of much of the world's gold, is so massive that its impact on the landscape can be detected from satellite images. It has produced more that 40% of all the gold ever mined on earth.

The ancient Egyptians believed a "vein of love" (vena amoris) ran from the fourth finger of the left hand directly to the heart, influencing the tradition of wearing wedding rings on that finger, a belief adopted by the Romans and influencing modern wedding customs.

Chatelaines were ornamental chains or clasps worn at the waist by women in the 18th and 19th centuries. They held a variety of useful items, such as keys, scissors and sewing tools.

One of the earliest forms of jewellery clasps was the simple hook-and-eye clasp which was used by ancient Egyptians. This type of clasp was often made from softer metals like gold or copper and used to fasten necklaces and bracelets. The hookand-eye clasp was also used by the Greeks and Romans, who often embellished them with gemstones and intricate designs.

Why independent gem labs matter in SA

As global markets evolveand lab-grown stones and treatments become more sophisticated, maintaining consumers’ trust has become increasingly challenging. Independent gem labs serve as a crucial line of defence, ensuring transparency and protecting both the trade and the consumer, says Jeremy Rothon of The Gem Lab. Gem-testing laboratories are the pillars of knowledge and trust, ensuring that stones are authenticated and assessed for accuracy so that dealers and consumers can buy and sell with confidence

The jewellery and diamond industry is built on trust. Consumers invest in fine gemstones with the belief that they are receiving what they have been promised, whether it be a rare, untreated sapphire, a natural emerald or a high-quality diamond. Independent gem labs play a vital role in maintaining transparency and safeguarding both the industry and consumers.

However, in South Africa, these essential services remain critically under-funded and under-utilised as highlighted by senior gemmologist Jeremy Rothon of The Gem Lab. Rothon, who has worked in the field for decades, has witnessed first-hand the consequences of an industry reluctant to invest in gem identification and certification.

“Labs overseas get huge sponsorships from the industry, which allow them to offer a necessary service to protect both businesses and consumers,” says Rothon. “In SA, independent labs struggle to stay afloat, despite the crucial role they play in verifying gemstones and preventing fraud.” The risks of an unregulated trade are stark. According to a survey conducted by Rothon in Durban some years ago, 80% of the stones examined at his lab had been

sold fraudulently, a staggering figure that points to widespread misrepresentation.

“I had to close my business in Durban due to a lack of support from jewellers who, ironically, needed us more than ever,” Rothon recalls.

The scenario in Cape Town has been somewhat different, as jewellers have shown greater recognition of the value that an independent lab provides. Yet, even here, fraudulent transactions persist.

In a recent case, a Cape Town dealer sold what were believed to be natural emeralds for R300 000 to an overseas buyer. Upon verification in an international lab, the stones were revealed to be lab-grown emeralds. The buyer returned to SA seeking a second opinion. When Rothon examined the stones, he

“The reality is that without sustainable funding, South Africa risks losing its independent gemmological expertise. If small labs are forced to shut down, fraudulent practices will only increase and confidence in the local jewellery market will continue to erode.”

confirmed the findings. Had the dealer sought authentication beforehand, they could have avoided reputational damage and financial loss.

“Our fee for verifying the stones would have been just R450 per emerald, a fraction of the loss incurred,” he notes. “Yet many in the industry continue to take unnecessary risks.”

There is also a common misconception that international labs hold an authority that local experts do not. Rothon recounts another example of a client who requested an assessment of a large blue sapphire specifically to determine its origin and whether it had undergone heat treatment. After thorough examination, Rothon concluded that the stone was Sri Lankan in origin, with no evidence of heat treatment.

The client, however, delayed payment of the R350 fee for six months. Later, when he attempted to sell the stone at auction in the USA, he was required to obtain a certificate from an international lab, which ultimately confirmed Rothon’s original findings, at a much higher cost.

“This highlights the flawed mindset in our industry,” says Rothon. “Many jewellers hesitate to support local labs, yet willingly pay exorbitant fees to overseas institutions for the same verification.”

Despite their importance, independent gem labs in SA operate under immense financial strain.

“We don’t have the funds to invest in cutting-edge equipment, so we rely on old-fashioned gemmology,” Rothon explains. “This puts us at a disadvantage in detecting the latest treatments and synthetic stones because it takes longer to confirm the authenticity of the stone, yet we still do our best to serve the industry at incredibly low fees.”

Adding to these concerns, Rothon reveals that just a few weeks ago, they examined 271 stones, some in settings. Out of the 271 stones checked, 156 were lab-grown. This underscores the growing presence of synthetic stones in the market and the urgent need for rigorous verification.

The reality is that without sustainable funding, SA risks losing its independent gemmological expertise. If small labs are forced to shut down, fraudulent practices will only increase and confidence in the local jewellery market will continue to erode.

So what can be done? The solution lies in greater industry support and awareness, says Rothon. Jewellers, dealers and retailers must recognise that a small investment in gem certification safeguards their business, their reputation and the integrity of the industry as a whole. Moreover, industry bodies and associations should consider forming partnerships with local gem labs to provide financial assistance, ensuring these institutions remain viable.

“In this day and age, the industry can't afford to be without a gem lab,” Rothon warns. “Our fees are already as low as possible, yet if we increase them, we won’t get the work and jewellers will face even greater risks.”

As the demand for ethically sourced and accurately represented gemstones grows, SA’s jewellery industry must adapt. Independent gem labs are not an optional extra – they are an essential pillar of trust, credibility and long-term success.

“Would you risk your business on an unchecked gemstone?” asks Rothon. The answer should be clear.

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BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 560 5064

E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A

Tel: 072 272 3089

E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za

BRETTLAND POULSEN

DESIGNER GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 031 562 8009

E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com

Website: www.brettlands.co.za

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO

Tel no: 011 616 5328

E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

BRONSKI JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 852 7891

E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE –WORKSHOP

Tel no: 011 438 7920

E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com

Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 202 5021

E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com

CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 781 0303

E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CAPE DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 421 5364

E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za

Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 021 460 3632

E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za

Website: www.cput.ac.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 551 2066

E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN

Tel no: 031 303 5402

E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – GERMISTON

Tel no: 011 334 6263

E-mail: shannon@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS

PE/Gqeberha

Tel no: 041 365 1890

E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC

Tel no: 041 992 4421

E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM

Tel no: 051 507 4044

E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za

CHARL DE BEER

Tel no: 012 440 7693

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 557 3252

E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA

Tel no: 021 975 5097

E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

CHATEAU D’OR CC

Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723

E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za

Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com

CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 599 5919

E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com

CREATIVE DESIGN

MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 031 563 3987

E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com

D FABRIK (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 327 7926

E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com

DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 8841

E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY

DESIGN & GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 023 342 7808

E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC

Tel no: 021 880 1026

E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612

E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

DC JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 691 3692

E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za

DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 3182

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign .withtank.com

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel: 083 454 2161

E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST

Tel no: 043 726 2291

E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID

Tel no: 021 418 4484

E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP

Tel: 072 830 5656

E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

DIAMONDS4EVER

Tel no: 082 786 7677

E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

DIDIDESIGN

Tel no: 011 784 0369

E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za

DLR JEWELLERS

Tel: 057 101 0359

E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

DR ESME SPICER

Tel no: 073 239 9983

E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 031 373 6673/6

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za

Website: www.dut.ac.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 553 0332

E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 072 636 0213

E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za

Website: www.ejewellery.org.za

ELEMENTAL STUDIO

Tel no: 084 507 7777

E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com

Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za

EMBER MANUFACTURING

& DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 5190

E-mail: info@ember.co.za

Website: www.ember.co.za

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES

Tel no: 031 824 9427

E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 083 578 7447

E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com

Website: www.eonhoon.com

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER

JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 8120

E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 018 290 5722/3

E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com

Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD

T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 3402

E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY

Tel no: 073 397 8820

E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 671 5529

E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 787 6120

E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za

Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 363 1881

E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com

Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES

Tel no: 021 511 6237

E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za

Website: www.finegold.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 564 9006

E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

FRANKLI WILD

Tel no: 011 483 2620

E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com

Website: www.frankliwild.com

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC

Tel no: 021 555 1437

E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net

Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 011 852 2046

E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 753 3304

E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com

Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

GEM AFRIQUE

Tel no: 062 050 6479

E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY

Tel: 021 914 0838

E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewellery academy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewellery academy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS Tel: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za

Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 0210441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/ impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/ www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/ contact/

K2 DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za

Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za

Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY

BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS'

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SEZ

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@MetCon.co.za Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD –

CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: salesct@MetCon.co.za Website: www.MetCon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND

MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND ’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: www.pearlanddiamond.co.za

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE

Tel no: 012 035 0260/063 656 1481

E-mail: info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za

Website: www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za

Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@ rarearth.co.za

Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@ rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za

Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za

Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za

Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com

Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za

Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND

CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www. hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@ studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: www.benefittohumanity.com

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 073 052 7587 / 083 326 5746

E-mail: samantha@thejhub.co.za; ian@thejhub.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za

TSWANE PRECIOUS METALS

Tel no: 012 035 0260

E-mail: info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za Website: www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/ arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

Brand supporters

AFRASIAN DIAMONDS www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za (011) 268-6980

ANNA-B JEWELLERY www.annab.co.za orders@annab.co.za 071-843-2452

BYL DIAMONDS www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com (021) 419-2000

CAPE TOOLS www.capetools.co.za sales@capewatch.co.za queries@capewatch.co.za (021) 424-8261 / 086 111 5137

GIA EDUCATION AND LABORATORY www.gia.edu (011) 334-2744

INFERNO GOLD www.infernogold.co.za info@infernogold.co.za 083-396-6178

krishagems.sa@gmail.com

PRECIOUS METALS TSWANE www.preciousmetalstswane.co.za info@preciousmetalstswane.co.za (012) 035-0260

THE JEWELLERY HUB samantha@thehub.co.za ian@thehub.co.za 073-052-7587 / 083-326-5746

LAB DIAMONDS www.labgrowndiamonds.co.za orders@labgrowndiamonds.co.za 066-476-7692

LICHABA MINE

info@lichaba.co.za (011) 593-3251/ 076-698-9726

RAND REFINERY www.randrefinery.com

SM WATCH www.smwatch.co.za smwatch@iafrica.com (012) 326-5996