• Namdeb and NamPower sign MoU to power operations with wind energy
REGULATORY REFORM
Meaningful reform is essential to unlock the industry’s full economic potential
2026 MEMBERSHIP INITIATIVE LAUNCHED
A sponsorship opportunity for 2026 Jewellery Council memberships is now available to non-members and former members
NATURAL DIAMOND
SECTOR FINDS
STRENGTH IN SELECT SEGMENTS
Several key segments within the natural diamond market are showing encouraging resilience
CELEBRITY
ENDORSEMENTS IN LUXURY BRANDING
By aligning with local icons, homegrown brands are gaining visibility and a powerful connection with modern consumers
COVER FEATURE
This month, we spotlight innovations which are making waves in the watches and jewellery finishing sector
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Staying ahead of the curve means embracing the latest tools, technologies and machinery that enhance both creativity and efficiency
BUILDING A RESPONSIBLE FUTURE
The Responsible Jewellery Council sets the global benchmark for ethical, social and environmental responsibility within the jewellery industry
EDUCATIONAL INSERT
ROBUST VAULT MANAGEMENT
With increasing risks and rising standards, secure vault systems are now essential to the reputation and resilience of jewellery businesses
BORN IN AFRICA
A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of SA 20. 23. 24. 31. 40. 42. 12
Jewellery Council of SA update
Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), shares the latest developments from the council’s office
In response to several incidents, the Jewellery Council has resolved to develop a Recommended Trade Practice on Tolerances for the Fineness of Metals in Jewellery. We believe this initiative is essential for upholding honesty, transparency and quality within the jewellery sector. It aims to protect consumers from misrepresentation and ensure fair and ethical trading. Preserving consumer confidence is the cornerstone of a strong and trustworthy marketplace.
The draft document is currently under review by the council’s board and the Jewellery Manufacturers’ Association Executive Committee, and will be circulated to members once finalised.
In drafting this document, we have obtained guidance from the SA National Standards (SANS 29:2011), developed by the SA Bureau of Standards (SABS), the country’s national standardisation body tasked with developing and promoting SANS.
Additionally, we have taken into account international best practices, including input from the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), which represents the global jewellery industry and its various stakeholders.
We are unified in our position that no negative tolerance will be permitted in relation to the stated fineness on any jewellery article. Any instance of undercaratage, where the actual metal content is below the stated fineness, will be considered a form of fraud, which may lead to fines and potential criminal charges.
We encourage and welcome feedback or suggestions from our members.
Over the past 30 years, the Jewellery Council has actively supported its members by facilitating access to incentive programmes offered by the Department of Trade, Industry & Competition (DTIC). One such initiative is the Emerging Exporters Scheme of the Sector Specific Assistance Scheme (SSAS), which provides sponsorship funding to small, medium and micro-enterprises which manufacture jewellery. The objective of this scheme is to help local jewellers participate in international exhibitions and establish export markets for their products.
Recently, the DTIC revised the qualifying criteria for participation in the scheme. Under the previous guidelines, businesses with an annual turnover of less than R25 million were eligible to apply. However, under the new criteria, only legal entities which meet the following requirements will qualify:
• At least 51% black ownership.
• Management and control by black persons and designated groups, including women and people living with disabilities.
This effectively excludes white male-owned companies, regardless of size or turnover.
We believe the exclusion of certain businesses from accessing support opportunities poses a challenge to broader industry transformation and inclusive economic growth.
Many white male-owned jewellery businesses in SA have been operating for decades and have
developed high standards of craftsmanship, technical know-how, export experience and reliability. Excluding them could potentially weaken the perceived overall quality and consistency of SA’s jewellery offering at international exhibitions.
In addition, these businesses often have the infrastructure, skills and capacity to mentor newer entrants into the industry. There is a risk of alienating businesses that could still contribute to industry growth.
The more diverse and high-quality the group of exhibitors, the better the chances of attracting longterm foreign partnerships and investment. Exclusion may limit this potential.
We will continue to keep members updated and welcome any feedback or concerns you may have.
An important offering to members is the council’s support on issues relating to refunds of VAT through our links with SARS. The council liaises directly with the relevant SARS departments that handle refund queries and has achieved 100% success rate, except in cases involving disputes or outstanding issues.
We recently addressed a letter to SARS about the implementation of the Domestic Reverse Charge (DRC) and addressed various concerns, one of which was the continued DRC audits every month, triggered automatically when completing the VAT201. Completing field 3 for DRC outputs and fields 12 and 18 for DRC inputs triggers the audits immediately upon submission of e-filing. This creates delays in refunds caused by these constant audits, which – in turn – negatively impacts cash flow, as well as placing an administrative burden on small businesses.
In addition, when SARS issues incorrect revised assessments, it also imposes penalties, which results
in a lot of administration and stress for affected members to have those assessments corrected.
During our earlier discussions with SARS, we were advised that the system would eventually resolve itself and that companies would no longer be flagged as high-risk. However, this has not yet been remedied.
Another area of concern which was addressed with SARS was the apparent lack of knowledge and understanding of the DRC among certain SARS staff, which has led to situations where jewellers are being asked to pay amounts they should not be required to pay. For example, these staff members have wanted VAT to be paid on the difference between the DRC output and inputs, which clearly indicates a gap in knowledge about how the DRC should be applied.
Our advice to SARS was that while we fully understand the importance of compliance, the frequency of the audits imposes a significant administrative burden on small and medium-sized businesses. Given that many companies have passed every audit without issue since the DRC was implemented, continuing to audit every VAT return seems an inefficient use of both SARS’ resources and the time of businesses. The identifying and investigation of non-compliant DRC vendors would be more beneficial.
SARS has undertaken to review the matter and revert. It is our hope that by working together, we can find solutions which benefit both SARS and the industry as a whole.
The strength of our association is directly linked to the active engagement of our members. We invite you to participate fully in the opportunities provided by the Jewellery Council to ensure the growth and success of the industry.
For more information about the council, our initiatives or how to get involved, visit our website at: www.jewellery.org.za, call us on tel: (011) 484-5528 or e-mail us at: admin@jewellery.org.za.
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Editor: Adri Viviers Cell: 084-261-1805
E-mail: adriv@jewellery.org.za
Sales Representative and Administrative Manager: Thuli Majola Cell: 074-243-0703
E-mail: thulim@jewellery.org.za
SA Jewellery News is published by: Jewellery Council of South Africa
CEO: Lorna Lloyd Cell: 082-456-5558
E-mail: lornal@jewellery.org.za
Executive Assistant to CEO: Elsa da Silva Cell: 082-214-0028
As we move into the heart of winter, the industry is heating up with excitement as we prepare for the highly anticipated JCSA Roadshows taking place this July in Durban, Cape Town and Johannesburg. These gatherings are more than just events – they are vital opportunities to connect, share and grow together. We encourage all members of the trade to attend. Networking is the lifeblood of our industry and nothing beats face-to-face interactions when it comes to forging partnerships and strengthening our community. We look forward to seeing you there!
This month’s edition is packed with insights, but I would particularly like to highlight our in-depth feature on regulatory reform in the South African jewellery sector. The reality is stark: outdated and overly complex regulations are choking growth, innovation and job creation. If you are a business-owner, designer, manufacturer or aspiring entrepreneur who has been negatively impacted by these barriers, we want to hear from you. Your stories matter and they can help spark the change we urgently need.
I am compiling a follow-up piece which will be shared with mainstream media and broader audiences beyond our industry. Our aim is to amplify your voices and build public pressure for meaningful deregulation that will unlock the full potential of our sector. Please e-mail your experience to me directly at: adriv@jewellery.org.za. Together, we can make a stronger, unifi ed call for reform.
Elsewhere in the issue, you will fi nd updates on the 2025 CIBJO Congress, the latest developments in the natural diamond sector, the growing role of celebrity endorsements in luxury branding and much more.
Here’s to progress, partnership and purpose in everything we do.
Happy reading!
Adri
Inferno Gold, formerly Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery, has rebranded to include refi ning as part of its services to the industry. With years of expertise, the company now o ers ethical, sustainable and reliable refi ning solutions, aiming to support jewellers and businesses with toptier gold products. This transition is not just a business evolution, but also a rebrand that marks its commitment to excellence in both jewellery design and refi ning. For further information, contact Inferno Gold on tel: 083-396-6178 or visit: www.InfernoGold.co.za.
From Earth to Art
Crafting African Wealth
Gold, silver, and platinum, gifts from African soil. Gleaming with promise. Raw elements that, in the hands of skilled jewellers, become enduring symbols of love, achievement, and identity.
At MetCon, as a Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) Member we understand that the true value of a finished piece begins long before the final polish. It starts with ethically sourced precious metals that are refined to the highest global standards, pure, trusted, and traceable.
As Africa’s premier precious metals refiner and fabricator, we don’t just supply materials, we support brands. We partner with jewellers, designers and artisans who honour heritage while pushing creative boundaries to turn raw metal into jewellery that carries meaning.
Whether you’re crafting everyday collections or bespoke luxury pieces, we provide tailored alloys to match your design intent, reliable casting and production support as well as metal accounts and logistics management.
Our metals carry more than purity, they carry a story. A story of African origin, of local excellence, and of ethical progress. Whether you’re looking to reduce risk in your production, or build a supply chain rooted in local excellence, MetCon is your trusted partner, from concept to completion.
With MetCon, you create with confidence. You deliver consistently. You grow sustainably.
Partner with MetCon, where every gram is a promise. We don’t just supply metal, we help craft your brand’s integrity.
Registration for CIBJO Congress 2025 now open
Registration for the 2025 congress of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) is now open. Delegates and other participants may register for the congress via a dedicated congress website located at: www.cibjo.org/congress-2025/. The three-day event will take place from Monday, 27 October to Wednesday, 29 October 2025.
The 2025 CIBJO Congress will mark the start of the World Jewellery Confederation’s centenary year and – fittingly – it will take place in Paris, the city where the organisation was founded as a pan-European association in 1926.
The host of this year’s congress is the Union Française de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie,
des Pierres & des Perles (UFBJOP), which brings together all the parties involved in the French jewellery, goldsmith, precious stone and pearl industry.
The dedicated website includes the tentative congress programme, important travel information, background information about Paris and the congress venues, news and media.
An online registration form for the congress is available and delegates will also be able to locate hotel rooms at special congress rates using links provided on the dedicated website.
CIBJO congresses serve as the gathering place for the World
Jewellery Confederation’s assembly of delegates and are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organisation’s definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books.
In addition, the CIBJO Congresses are where the programmes of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF) are reported on, as well as activities related to CIBJO’s ongoing cooperation with the United Nations and its development programme.
Namdeb and NamPower sign MoU to power operations with wind energy
The De Beers Group has announced that Namdeb (the 50-50 diamond mining joint venture between the De Beers Group and the government of Namibia) and NamPower, Namibia’s national power utility, have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to facilitate collaboration on the development and integration of renewable electricity projects into Namdeb’s mining operations and the Namibian national grid.
The proposed development site is located in Kerbehuk, approximately 45 km north of Oranjemund, where Namdeb is developing a 34 MW wind power plant, with Namdeb being the sole off-taker of the electricity generated. Building on the capacity of both parties, an opportunity has been identified to potentially upscale the project and connect it to the NamPower grid.
“This MoU signifies more than a partnership; it’s a statement of intent to power progress – responsibly and sustainably. Our focus on climate is backed
by tangible actions. We introduced Namibia’s first battery-electric bus in 2023 to start electrifying our vehicle fleet. Ultimately, we intend to electrify as much of our mobile equipment as possible so that our fleet operates on renewable energy. The Kerbehuk wind facility is a key milestone in this journey, with the potential to enable the use of renewable energy for nearly half of our electricity needs. Moreover, we’re proud that this collaboration with NamPower not only supports our operational goals, but also strengthens Namibia’s energy independence and climate resilience,” says Riaan Burger, CEO of Namdeb.
“Today’s consumers want to know that the diamonds they wear are sustainable. This MoU with NamPower is a major step towards our ‘Building Forever’ ambition to become carbon-neutral. Namibia’s already at the forefront of Africa’s energy transition and I’m delighted that the new wind farm will bring clean power not only to our own operations, but also to communities across the country,” says Al Cook, CEO of the De Beers Group.
Addressing regulatory challenges in SA’s jewellery industry
South Africa’s jewellery sector faces mounting regulatory hurdles that stifl e growth and innovation. Meaningful reform is essential to unlock the industry's full economic potential
SA’s jewellery industry, historically a shining example of value-added beneficiation, holds immense promise for economic growth and entrepreneurship. However, industry stakeholders are increasingly calling for thoughtful reform to ensure that the sector can thrive in a modern, competitive global market.
While SA remains one of the world’s top producers of gold, platinum and diamonds, regulatory complexity is making it difficult for new entrants to access the industry and for established businesses to grow. Industry insiders warn that the maze of compliance requirements and overlapping government regulations is making it increasingly difficult for newcomers to break into the sector and for established players to remain compliant.
From licensing requirements to strict regulations on precious metal beneficiation and trading, new businesses must navigate
a gauntlet of paperwork and oversight before even crafting their first piece of jewellery. The process typically involves:
• Registration with the SA Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator.
• Compliance with the Precious Metals Act and Diamond Act.
• Obtaining jeweller’s permits, refining and beneficiation licences.
• Strict auditing and record-keeping requirements.
For emerging entrepreneurs, especially those without strong legal or financial support, these barriers are often insurmountable. Many give up before launching,
citing high costs and months-long waiting periods for approvals.
Even for experienced operators, compliance is a continuous challenge. “Staying up to date with shifting regulatory expectations is practically a full-time job,” notes one Gauteng-based manufacturer. “We spend more time on paperwork than on innovation.”
According to data from the Department of Mineral Resources & Energy, the number of jewellery manufacturing permits and licences issued annually has declined steadily over the past decade, despite SA’s abundant
“If the barriers to entry and operation are not lowered soon, the sparkle of SA’s jewellery sector may continue to dim, taking with it jobs, skills and potential the country can ill afford to lose.”
mineral resources, which should position it as a global leader in jewellery production.
Industry players argue that over-regulation is to blame. The cumbersome compliance system discourages investment, blocks innovation and limits the ability of businesses to adapt quickly to market demands. “We have the raw materials and design talent,” says Sowetan-based jewellery entrepreneur Dumisani Hlatshwayo, “but trying to start a jewellery business feels like preparing for war. There’s too much red tape and zero clarity.” Hlatshwayo is one of many emerging designers who abandoned or delayed launching due to the burden of compliance.
“We’re not anti-regulation,” says Simone du Preez, owner of a midsized jewellery manufacturer in Durban, “but the system needs to evolve. Right now, it’s pushing talent out instead of welcoming it in.”
The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) has emerged as one of the most vocal advocates for change. The organisation is actively engaging with government and industry bodies to push for deregulation and streamlined compliance processes – not to compromise accountability, but to make the system functional and growth-orientated.
“The current regulatory framework is outdated and overly complex,” says JCSA CEO Lorna Lloyd. “If we want to revive and grow the industry, particularly among
small to medium enterprises and emerging designers, we must simplify the path to participation. By simplifying compliance, we can support job creation, skills development and the expansion of local design and manufacturing.”
Although progress has been measured, ongoing discussions offer a promising platform for reform. Countries like India and Italy have demonstrated how streamlined regulation can stimulate industry growth, models that could inspire local solutions tailored to SA’s context.
The JCSA is advocating:
• A centralised online portal for licensing.
• Risk-adjusted compliance tiers based on business size.
• Enforceable turnaround times for all permits and renewals.
• Updated regulatory guidelines with clear support resources for new entrants.
• Controlled duty-free access to gold and precious metals for local manufacturers.
• VAT exemptions and customs duty rebates for exportorientated manufacturers.
• Government-backed promotion of “Made in South Africa” globally.
We want to hear from you
• Establishing industry councils akin to India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, ensuring a unified voice in policy-shaping.
To ensure the survival and growth of the sector, industry leaders say reforms must be pragmatic and swift. The South African government has long championed beneficiation as a way of adding local value to mineral exports. However, without policy reform, that vision may remain unrealised.
If the barriers to entry and operation are not lowered soon, the sparkle of SA’s jewellery sector may continue to dim, taking with it jobs, skills and potential the country can ill afford to lose.
If you are a jewellery industry stakeholder who has been negatively affected by excessive or outdated regulation, we invite you to share your experience. The JCSA is compiling a comprehensive feature that will be shared with national media and broader audiences outside the trade. Our goal is to highlight the real-world impact of regulatory barriers and advocate meaningful reform.
Please send your story to the editor at: adriv@jewellery.org.za. Your insights will help us present a unified, compelling case for change that reflects the lived experiences of those working in and around SA’s jewellery industry.
2026 membership initiative launched
The Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA) is pleased to announce a significant opportunity for non-members and former members of the council who may have faced financial constraints, preventing their continued participation. Thanks to the generosity of Johann Claassens of Inferno Gold, several fully sponsored memberships for the 2026 calendar year are being made available to qualifying businesses within the jewellery industry.
This initiative refl ects Claassens’s deep appreciation for the role the JCSA has played in the sustainability and development of his own business. A longstanding and active member, he credits the council with having been instrumental in his journey, especially during challenging times. Now, through his sponsorship, he seeks to extend that same support to others who may be navigating similar diffi culties, affi rming his commitment to strengthening the broader industry through collaboration and shared resources.
A sponsorship opportunity for 2026 Jewellery Council memberships is now available to non-members and former members. This initiative is designed to broaden access to industry resources for businesses experiencing fi nancial constraints
will feature a short presentation providing more details on the initiative, with an opportunity for attendees to ask questions and engage directly with the sponsors. Claassens will be available at each venue from 4-6pm to offer further information or discuss eligibility with interested attendees.
As part of this initiative, Inferno Gold will be participating in the upcoming Jewellery Council roadshows where the membership sponsorship programme will be highlighted. These events will take place on 2 July in Durban at the Riverside Hotel, on 3 July in Cape Town at the Cape Town Lodge Hotel and on 10 July in Johannesburg at the Killarney Country Club. Each roadshow
The sponsored membership programme is open to businesses that are either not currently affi liated with the council or who have had to cancel their membership due to fi nancial pressures. Interested applicants must complete a brief application questionnaire and email it to Lizelle Claassens at: lizelle.claassens@infernogold.co.za no later than 14 October 2025.
Membership of the JCSA off ers a range of tangible benefi ts that support business development, compliance and visibility. These include industry representation at national and international levels,
access to legal and regulatory updates, networking and training opportunities, participation in trade shows and being part of a trusted professional directory. In an environment where market challenges persist, such advantages are not only valuable, but often essential for long-term business viability.
This sponsorship initiative is a clear example of industry solidarity and the belief in the power of community to uplift and sustain small enterprises. The JCSA extends its sincere thanks to Claassens and Inferno Gold for this commendable eff ort to make the council’s support and services accessible to more stakeholders in the sector.
Eligible businesses are encouraged to apply and take advantage of this opportunity to strengthen their operations through engagement with the JCSA’s diverse off erings and experienced network.
While the natural diamond market has faced undeniable headwinds over the past 18 months, several key segments within the category are showing encouraging resilience
Demand for natural diamonds remains steady, if more selective, with specific goods such as fancy shapes, larger stones, fancy colour diamonds and commercial-quality goods continuing to perform across both domestic and international markets.
This more nuanced landscape reflects a shift in buyer priorities, rather than a fundamental loss of interest in natural diamonds. Industry professionals are finding that quality, uniqueness and valuefor-money are driving purchase decisions more than ever.
A market under pressure, but not without opportunity
The broader natural diamond sector has had to adjust to a range of challenges: macro-economic uncertainty, shifting consumer sentiment and continued price pressure from the fast-growing lab-grown diamond market. Global demand in some categories has slowed and inventory levels have remained high in certain distribution channels.
However, within this recalibrated market, opportunities remain for businesses attuned to what is selling.
What is moving: four areas of strength 1. Fancy shapes lead bridal preferences Fancy-shaped diamonds, particularly ovals, pears and cushions, are outperforming
Natural diamond sector finds strength in select segments
rounds in many bridal and bespoke jewellery categories. These shapes continue to appeal to younger buyers looking for individuality and stylistic differentiation, especially in the 1-3ct range.
“Well-cut ovals and pears are consistently in demand. If the make’s right and the price is fair, they move quickly,” says a leading Gauteng-based cutter.
2. Oversized stones draw long-term buyers
Stones above 3ct remain attractive to investors and high-net-worth clients. While movement is more selective, properly graded stones with strong makes are fi nding buyers who view natural diamonds as a longerterm value proposition, especially as global production declines.
There is also renewed interest in these goods as rare, luxury items, something the lab-grown segment cannot replicate.
3. Fancy colour diamonds shine in a niche market
“There
is a growing sense in the trade that while the market may remain segmented, the fundamentals of rarity and natural origin still hold enduring consumer appeal, especially in milestone jewellery categories such as engagement, anniversary and investment purchases.”
Buyers are increasingly discerning, but when price, cut and availability align, commercial goods still turn over efficiently.
Positioning for a smarter market
Today’s market rewards efficiency, responsiveness and quality. Natural diamonds are no longer about selling volume at scale: they are about delivering value, rarity and traceability. Retailers and manufacturers that focus on distinctive inventory and strong story-telling are better positioned to thrive.
The fancy colour segment, especially pinks, blues and vivid yellows, continues to attract collector and investor interest. The closure of the Argyle mine has added scarcity to the pink diamond market and demand in Asia and the Middle East remains active for rare colours.
Recent auction results have reaffirmed this trend, with fancy colours setting strong prices and outperforming white diamonds in some categories.
4. Commercial goods still find a home
Despite a cautious retail environment, there is ongoing movement in commercial-grade diamonds, particularly in the 0,30-1,00ct range, SI1-SI2 clarity and G-H colour. These stones are essential for pricesensitive bridal jewellery and continue to sell well in regional and independent retail markets.
There is a growing sense in the trade that while the market may remain segmented, the fundamentals of rarity and natural origin still hold enduring consumer appeal, especially in milestone jewellery categories such as engagement, anniversary and investment purchases.
Looking forward
The path ahead for the natural diamond sector is not without complexity, but it is not without promise either. The slow-down has prompted a healthier realignment between supply and demand and pricing is beginning to stabilise in certain categories. Many in the trade are cautiously optimistic that the second half of 2025 could bring firmer footing, especially if global consumer sentiment improves.
For now, the message is clear: while broad-based demand may be more subdued, specifi c segments of the natural diamond market are still very much alive and shining.
Celebrity endorsements in luxury branding
In South Africa’s evolving luxury market, celebrity endorsements are reshaping the jewellery landscape. By aligning with local icons, homegrown brands are gaining visibility, authenticity and a powerful connection with modern consumers
In today’s interconnected world, where visibility equates to value, jewellery brands increasingly harness the allure of celebrity endorsements to elevate their image, amplify brand narratives and drive consumer desire. The fusion of fame and fine jewellery is not novel, but in an era dominated by social media and digital influence, the impact of a celebrity endorsement can be both immediate and profound.
From red carpet appearances to curated Instagram posts, celebrities wield unparalleled influence over consumer perceptions. For jewellery brands, aligning with the right personality can transform them from niche artisans to household names. Within this glittering alliance, watches often occupy a unique and potent niche.
The bond between jewellery and celebrity culture traces back to Hollywood’s golden age. Actresses like Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe made diamonds emblematic of glamour and desirability. Luxury houses such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co and Bulgari recognised the power of celebrity association early on, often loaning or gifting jewellery to stars, ensuring their creations graced the most prominent screens worldwide.
This tradition persists today, albeit in a more strategic and contractual form. Brands now engage celebrities as ambassadors, collaborating over multiple campaigns to convey consistent messaging. As the boundaries between fashion, entertainment and digital content blur, these partnerships have evolved to become more sophisticated and targeted.
A pivotal factor in the success of celebrity endorsements in the jewellery realm is authenticity. Modern consumers are discerning, so a misalignment between celebrity and brand can be detrimental. Contemporary partnerships must be rooted in genuine alignment, be it through personal style, shared values or lifestyle congruence.
For instance, a brand specialising in sustainable or ethically sourced pieces might partner with an eco-conscious influencer or activist. A heritage watchmaker
could collaborate with a respected actor known for timeless elegance. When executed correctly, the endorsement transcends mere advertising, resonating as a personal recommendation, a sentiment modern consumers trust and one to which they respond.
While earrings, rings and necklaces often dominate media coverage of celebrity style, watches hold a distinctive status in endorsements. A watch is more than an accessory: it is a symbol of personal success, taste and status. Particularly for male celebrities, watches often serve as their primary or sole form of jewellery, making them a focal point for brand partnerships.
Global watch brands like Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer and Audemars Piguet have long capitalised on this dynamic, aligning with icons from sports, cinema and business. For example:
• Omega has collaborated with actors like George Clooney and Nicole Kidman, reinforcing its image of sophistication and precision.
• TAG Heuer’s “What Are You Made Of?” campaign featured personalities such as actors Ryan Gosling and Shah Rukh Khan, as well as erstwhile tennis star Maria Sharapova, highlighting the brand’s association with resilience and performance.
• Breitling partnered with former football star David Beckham, merging the worlds of sports and luxury timepieces.
In SA, local watch and jewellery brands have opportunities to leverage similar strategies. While budgets may differ from global giants, the influence of local celebrities should not be underestimated. Endorsements by beloved actors, musicians or sports figures can forge powerful emotional connections with South African con -
sumers, spotlighting homegrown craftsmanship.
The digital landscape has revolutionised endorsement strategies. No longer confined to billboards and magazine spreads, celebrity partnerships now unfold in real-time on platforms like Instagram, TikTok and YouTube. This shift has introduced a new class of influencers, individuals with smaller, but highly engaged followings, offering jewellery brands costeffective and often more authentic avenues for promotion.
At the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, luxury brands capitalised on social media, with influencer-driven content generating a record US$203 million in earned media value on Instagram. Notably, jewellery accounted for US$56,8 million, with Chopard leading at US$22,7 million, bolstered by starstudded events and appearances.
This trend underscores the importance of diverse, inclusive influencer marketing and the growing synergy between fashion and film.
South African brands are increasingly recognising the value of celebrity endorsements. For instance, Grammy Award-winning artist Tyla was announced as the new face of Pandora in April 2025. The collaboration showcases Tyla’s curated selection of Pandora
jewellery, reflecting her personal story and style.
Similarly, renowned South African jewellery designer, the late Jenna Clifford, built a reputation for unique designs and superlative craftsmanship, attracting a clientele which includes recognised business icons and celebrities worldwide.
These examples highlight the potential for South African brands to leverage local talent, enhancing their visibility both domestically and internationally.
As consumers become more conscious of ethical considerations, brands are re-evaluating their partnerships. Aligning with celebrities who advocate sustainability and ethical practices can reinforce a brand’s commitment to responsible sourcing and production.
For example, De Beers appointed Academy Award-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o as its first Global Ambassador, emphasising the brand’s dedication to ethical diamond sourcing and story-telling.
This evolution signifies a broader shift in the luxury jewellery industry, where authenticity, ethical alignment and meaningful narratives are paramount.
The symbiotic relationship between jewellery brands and celebrity endorsements continues to evolve, driven by authenticity, digital innovation and ethical considerations. Watches, in particular, play a significant role in this dynamic, serving as symbols of status and personal expression.
For South African brands, embracing strategic celebrity partnerships, both locally and globally, can unlock new avenues for growth and resonance in an increasingly connected world.
Redefining refinement
Inferno Gold, formerly known as Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery, has rebranded to reflect its evolution from a bespoke design house to a leading ethical refiner. This shift marks a deepened commitment to both exceptional craftsmanship and responsible gold recovery, bringing years of precious metal expertise into a new, sustainability-driven chapter.
Inferno Gold specialises in recovering gold from a variety of materials, including scrap jewellery, industrial by-products and electronics containing precious metals. This approach aligns with sustainable practices by reducing the demand for newly mined gold and promoting the re-use of existing resources. The company places a strong emphasis on recycling gold from old jewellery, electronic waste and other gold-bearing materials. This reinforces its commitment to
Inferno Gold, formerly known as Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery, has transitioned from a premier design house to a trusted name in refining, bringing years of precious metal expertise to ethical, transparent and sustainable refining services
a circular economy where materials are re-used and repurposed, reducing reliance on newly mined gold.
Transparency and accountability are central to Inferno Gold’s operations. The company promotes transparency through its precise assay services, ensuring that the gold refined meets industry standards for purity. This dedication to precision reflects accountability in refining processes.
Inferno Gold’s evolution from a bespoke jewellery design company into a refined gold specialist with a focus on sustainability sets an example within the industry. It shows that it is possible to maintain profitability while upholding ethical practices and promoting sustainability.
With increasing demand for sustainability, Inferno Gold is positioned to lead the gold refining sector toward more ethical sourcing, efficient recycling and transparency in operations. The company’s dedication to sustainability reflects the future direction of the industry.
The company’s refining service is also highly beneficial to jewellery manufacturers, who can turn production waste into a valuable financial asset. This process, known as sweep refining, allows clients to recover gold or silver from bench lemel, polishing dust and other by-products, supporting better returns on investment and operational efficiency. Sweep refining plays a key role in helping jewellers enhance cash flow, as recovered precious metals can either be reinvested into production or sold to strengthen financial stability. It also aids in meeting environmental and industry regulations related to waste disposal, while simultaneously reclaiming valuable resources.
The key benefits of Inferno Gold’s service include value recovery by turning waste into valuable gold or silver, cost-savings through reduced raw material needs and a strong contribution to sustainable practices by supporting recycling efforts and reducing mining demand. Services are tailored to meet each client’s specific needs and transparency is ensured through full visibility of the refining process.
Inferno Gold offers a transparent and professional step-by-step service. The process begins with a one-on-one consultation, during which items are weighed to determine the gross weight. At this stage, payout pricing is agreed upon and the client can choose either a cash payment or a metal return. The items are then safely melted into a single, uniform bar by experienced smelters to ensure a consistent and accurate sample. A core sample is extracted and tested using a high-precision metal scanner, revealing the exact fine gold or silver content. Once the purity is confirmed, the net weight is calculated based on the assay results. This is the actual value of the fine gold or silver present. The client then receives a detailed payment advice slip for review and approval. Once confirmed, payment is made within two to three business days.
By combining ethical sourcing, circular economy principles and transparent refining, the company is proving that responsibility and profitability can go hand in hand.
Tools of the trade
Investment Powders
Plasticast® Investment
As the jewellery industry continues to evolve, staying ahead of the curve means embracing the latest tools, technologies and machinery that enhance both creativity and efficiency. This month, we are spotlighting investment powder
Plasticast ® is developed for investing and burnout of plastic or wax/plastic pattern materials, including those used in rapid prototyping. These materials typically expand more than standard waxes, requiring investment with extra strength and flexibility. Plasticast ® meets this need while maintaining mould surface and dimensional integrity during casting. It produces smoother, cleaner casting surfaces – difficult to achieve with standard powders – and is easily removed in water, streamlining workflow.
Silicone Mould Rubber
A pourable, two-part additioncuring silicone, ideal for jewellery moulds. It captures fine detail and is extremely durable. Cured moulds retain shape for up to 20 years and remain stable despite humidity, light, or temperature changes. With virtually zero shrinkage, there’s no need for design adjustments. Mixed in a simple 1:1 ratio, it allows sameday mould-making with a fast set time under four hours.
ADVANTAGE ™ Investment
Designed for low-temperature alloys like silver, brass, and bronze, ADVANTAGE ™ offers an economical solution for dependable casting. It reduces excess metal and watermarking, supporting consistent outcomes and improved efficiency.
Astro-Vest® Investment
Astro-Vest ® is engineered for high-temperature alloys cast above 2,200°F (1,200°C), such as platinum and stainless steel. It delivers precise, fin-free castings with excellent detail, enhances surface finish, and preserves fine craftsmanship.
Wax Products
AquaSphere™ waxes offer exceptional versatility and reliability for a wide range of casting needs. Each wax balances flow, toughness, durability, and detail replication. Features like ductility, memory, and clean release improve performance, making them ideal for everything from fine detail work to difficult draws.
Plating Solutions
Whitenor ® is a cyanide-free, acidbased solution that plates pure platinum with a bright, uniform white finish. With a hardness of 400 HV and excellent wear and corrosion resistance, it’s a costeffective alternative to rhodium. Whitenor ® supports deposits up to 20 microns, works with rhodium systems, and can substitute palladium in pre-rhodium steps. It delivers consistent colour and long-term surface durability on gold, palladium, and silver.
These investment materials, casting supplies and plating stock are available for purchase from Cape Tools, the official African agents for these renowned brands.
The Responsible Jewellery Council sets the global benchmark for ethical, social and environmental responsibility within the jewellery industry. Its rigorous standards help companies build trust with consumers while promoting sustainable and transparent practices worldwide.
The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) plays a vital role in shaping the global jewellery and watch industry’s commitment to ethical business conduct, responsible sourcing and sustainable development. Founded in 2005 by leading industry players including Cartier, De Beers and Tiffany & Co., the RJC was created in response to growing concerns about human rights abuses, environmental harm, and opaque supply chains. Over the past two decades, it has become the foremost standard-setting organisation promoting integrity
throughout the jewellery supply chain, from mining to retail.
At its core, the RJC believes responsibility and business success go hand in hand. Its mission is to advance ethical, social, and environmental practices through standards, certification, and education. The RJC’s rigorous Code of Practices (COP) provides a framework members must follow to demonstrate responsible sourcing and conduct. The Code covers key areas including human and labour rights, safe working conditions, environmental stewardship, product integrity and responsible mining. It aligns with internationally accepted benchmarks like the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, ILO conventions and the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
The RJC’s approach is holistic and collaborative. It recognises that challenges such as conflict minerals, environmental impact and labour exploitation are systemic and require collective solutions. To promote transparency and traceability, it introduced the Chain of Custody (CoC) standard in 2012, allowing members to certify that gold, platinum group metals, and diamonds are responsibly sourced and fully traceable. More recently, the RJC launched the Laboratory Grown Materials Standard (LGMS) to extend ethical guidelines to synthetic gemstones.
The RJC regularly updates its standards to reflect evolving risks and stakeholder expectations. The 2019 revision of the COP expanded its scope to include coloured gemstones and silver, aligning more closely with the OECD Due Diligence Guidance and UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights. Through its engagement
Building a responsible future
with the UN Global Compact since 2019, the RJC champions the SDGs and demonstrates a strong commitment to global sustainability.
The Council’s history is marked by key milestones. From its founding by 14 companies, it has grown to include thousands of members across the value chain, from miners and refiners to manufacturers and retailers. This broad base has enabled it to align the industry around shared standards, building credibility with consumers, investors, and regulators. Yet, the RJC has also faced challenges, notably in 2022 when Richemont, Kering and Pandora withdrew over concerns about its association with Russian diamond producer Alrosa. The controversy underscored the ethical and geopolitical complexities facing the industry.
From a South African perspective, the RJC’s principles carry particular weight. With a deep heritage in mining, South Africa’s gold and diamond sectors are central to its economy and identity, yet also linked to labour disputes, environmental damage, and inequality.
“Moreover, as international buyers increasingly demand evidence of responsible sourcing, RJC certification can facilitate greater access to export markets, fostering economic growth and sustainability within South Africa’s jewellery industry.”
The RJC’s framework provides local businesses with tools to address these issues through globally recognised best practices that promote transparency, fairness and environmental responsibility.
South African jewellers and miners who align with RJC standards can boost their competitiveness by assuring consumers of responsible sourcing. The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) supports this alignment by advocating for best practices and providing resources and education. With growing demand from international buyers for ethical sourcing, RJC certification also helps local businesses access export markets and promote sustainable growth.
ongoing vigilance. Its auditing and certification process includes independent third-party verification, with corrective action plans for non-compliance and removal from membership when necessary, helping to uphold credibility and trust.
The RJC’s values resonate strongly in the South African context, where social justice and environmental stewardship are critical. Its focus on human rights, fair labour, and community engagement encourages local stakeholders to foster dignity and equity. Similarly, its environmental standards support responsible resource management, essential to protecting South Africa’s ecosystems.
The RJC also promotes continuous improvement, recognising that responsible practices require
The Responsible Jewellery Council stands as a beacon for a more ethical, transparent, and sustainable future in the jewellery and watch industry. Its comprehensive standards and collaborative approach offer a strong framework for companies seeking to align profitability with responsibility. For South Africa, RJC participation presents a chance to elevate the local industry as a model of ethical excellence, strengthening both community wellbeing and global confidence. As consumer awareness and regulatory expectations grow, the RJC’s role in setting and enforcing responsible standards will only become more crucial, ensuring that the beauty of fine jewellery is matched by its integrity and respect for people and the planet.
You're Invited: The 2025 Jewellery Council of South Africa Roadshows
After a six-year hiatus, the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) is proud to announce the return of its national Roadshows, a vital series of events for industry professionals from across the country.
Set to take place in Durban (2 July), Cape Town (3 July) and Johannesburg (10 July), the 2025 Roadshows are designed as dynamic, in-person gatherings that aim to inspire, inform and connect the South African jewellery trade.
“These roadshows are about revitalising the industry, not just informing, but inspiring,” says Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the JCSA. “It’s a platform where important updates meet real-world networking.”
Whether you are a JCSA member, part of the Diamond Association, or an industry stakeholder looking to stay informed and connected, these events are open and inclusive. Attendees will gain access to essential updates, new initiatives and the opportunity to engage directly with sponsors.
From 16:00 to 18:00, guests are invited to engage with event sponsors and network in a relaxed environment.
A key feature of this year’s Roadshows is a presentation by the Financial Intelligence Centre (FIC), which will offer clarity on compliance, regulatory obligations, registration requirements, record-keeping practices and high-value transaction reporting. FIC representatives will be available on-site from 16:00 for individual consultations and will deliver a formal presentation as part of the programme.
The official programme will run from 18:00 to 19:30 and includes:
• Welcome – Johan Bezuidenhout, Chairman of the JCSA
• Council Update – Lorna Lloyd, CEO
• Launch of the 2026 Membership Support
Initiative – sponsored by Inferno Gold
• Financial Intelligence Centre Presentation –including a Q&A session on compliance obligations
• Closing Remarks and Sponsor Recognition
From 19:30 onwards, attendees are invited to continue networking over complimentary drinks and snacks.
The 2025 Roadshows will also serve as the official introduction of Johan Bezuidenhout of Richline SA as the newly elected Chairman of the Jewellery Council of South Africa.
EVENT SCHEDULE:
Durban
Date: 2 July 2025
Venue: Riverside Hotel, Durban North
• 16:00-18:00: Sponsor Networking and FIC Consultations
• 18:00: Roadshow Programme
Cape Town
Date: 3 July 2025
Venue: Cape Town Lodge & Hotel, City Centre
• 16:00-18:00: Sponsor Networking and FIC Consultations
• 18:00: Roadshow Programme
Johannesburg
Date: 10 July 2025
Venue: Killarney Country Club, Houghton
• 16:00-18:00: Sponsor Networking and FIC Consultations
• 18:00: Roadshow Programme
The Jewellery Council of South Africa extends its sincere thanks to the 2025 Roadshow sponsors: Cape Precious Metals (CPM), Metal Concentrators (MetCon), Inferno Gold, BYL Diamonds, The Jewellery Hub, Moon Investments and Cape Tools. Their support make these events possible and contribute to the growth and cohesion of the industry.
DIAMOND REFLECTIONS DIAMOND REFLECTIONS
The Extraordinary Backstory of Natural Diamonds: A Diamond Is (and Has Been) Forever
Evan M. Smith and James E. Shigley
Diamonds have a long history as a premier gemstone – a natural consequence of their beauty, rarity, and superlative physical properties such as extreme hardness. Diamonds that are mined for use as gemstones have an innate appeal and air of luxury. In ancient Rome, Pliny the Elder called diamond “the most valuable, not only of precious stones, but of all things in this world.” The utility of diamond as a tool for cutting is also prized. It has even found niches in modern high-tech applications. However, our love affair with this transparent crystalline form of carbon is virtually blind to its geological backstory, arguably one of its most compelling facets.
and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).
In the decades since GIA introduced the Four Cs qualitygrading concept for polished diamonds in the 1940s, scientists’ understanding of where, when, and how diamonds form has changed radically. They form deeper underground than virtually anything else you can touch. They are more ancient than initially thought, with some dating back to 3.5–3.3 billion years ago (three-quarters of the earth’s age). Diamonds preserve evidence over both space and time of this ancient geologic origin in the form of pristine inclusions of minerals and geological fluids. Processes that contribute to diamond growth involve the movement of rocks and fluids inside the earth at a scale of hundreds of kilometers, a testament to the fact that our planet is dynamic and evolving rather than a static ball of rock. Much of this activity is attributable to plate tectonics and subduction, which is the slow sinking of oceanic plates into the mantle.
The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.
For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-
In a sense, geologists are beginning to unravel a fascinating new identity for diamonds, giving Pliny even more reason to have admired them. They have evolved from a curiosity to something of great scientific value and excitement. However, public awareness of this development has lagged. Here we review the story of diamond formation alongside other aspects of natural diamonds and their extraction from the earth, showcasing them in a new light.
pressure is required to stabilize the denser configuration of carbon atoms and crystallize diamond, which is why it forms deep in the mantle. Once formed, diamond remains in that form of carbon under all conditions that normally exist at the earth’s surface.
bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).
The physical and chemical conditions of diamond formation have largely been constrained by studies of their mineral inclusions. Most diamonds crystallize within the base of old and thick parts of continents, called cratons, at depths of 150–200 km and temperatures of 900°–1300°C (Stachel and Harris, 2008). These are known as cratonic or lithospheric diamonds. Some rarer diamonds form at depths as deep as 200–800 km, below the lithosphere, and are called sublithospheric or superdeep diamonds (Shirey et al., 2024). Some unusual kinds of mineral inclusions are contained in sublithospheric diamonds, and these serve as the basis to constrain their depth of formation. Figure 1 illustrates just how vast these depths are. Virtually all the rocks and minerals observable at the earth’s surface, including most gemstones, form at relatively shallow depths within the continental crust. In contrast, diamonds are easily the most deeply derived things humans can touch. Much like meteorites from space, they are “alien” materials from deep underground and were only brought to the earth’s surface by an unusual set of geologic circumstances.
Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich
Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption
Continental lithosphere
Deep-focus earthquake activity
Diamonds Are Deep: Carbon in the Mantle
At the earth’s surface, graphite is the stable crystalline form of carbon, with a density of 2.26 g/cm3. Diamond is a much more compact form of carbon, with a density of 3.52 g/cm3, 56% higher than the density of graphite. Great confining
High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds
Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds
Lithospheric diamonds
Editor’s note: Questions or topics of interest should be directed to Evan Smith (evan.smith@gia.edu).
Although diamonds originate very deep in the earth, when carried up by kimberlites or related volcanic eruptions, they can endure the upward journey because it is quick and survive indefinitely at the earth’s surface because of their hardness, strength, and chemical robustness. Inclusions trapped inside diamonds can survive as well, being protected and shielded by their host. This makes inclusions in diamonds the most deeply derived well-preserved samples of the mantle. These inclusions can be not only minerals but also fluids or gases trapped at high pressures.
Solidus of carbonated MORB
Carbonated slab melting
Hydrous uid
The range of possible residual pressures retained by some inclusions is nicely demonstrated by rare inclusions of nitrogen in either liquid or solid form, the latter having a pressure of 10.9 Gpa (Smith et al., 2013; Navon et al., 2017). For comparison, 1 gigapascal is about 10,000 times atmospheric pressure at sea level or about 10 times the pressure at the deepest part of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean.
Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).
Possibly the highest recorded pressure inside an inclusion (for a diamond above the earth’s surface) is that of a phase called ice-VII, with a reported pressure of 24 GPa, equivalent to the ambient pressure at the bottom of the
and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).
The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.
bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).
mantle transition zone (Tschauner et al., 2018). Inclusions from both the lithospheric and sublithospheric mantle are invaluable samples for scientific study because they are the only direct source of mantle information. They speak not only to diamond formation but also to the broader structure, composition, and processes of the mantle.
A more recent discovery based on inclusions has shown that some of the largest and highest-quality gem diamonds are derived from the sublithospheric mantle. Specifically, type IIb (boron-bearing) and so-called CLIPPIR (Cullinanlike, large, inclusion-poor, pure, irregular, and resorbed) diamonds have been found to contain high-pressure mineral assemblages indicating formation at depths between 360 and 800 km (Smith et al., 2016, 2017, 2018). Famous gem diamonds within these “superdeep” categories include the Hope, the Koh-i-Noor, the Lesedi La Rona, and the Cullinan. The faceted gems cut from the 3,106 ct Cullinan have been a cherished centerpiece of the British Crown Jewels for more than a century, based on their exquisite natural beauty and rarity. Now these diamonds have returned to the limelight, including coverage from the BBC (Gorvett, 2022), for their extreme depth of origin.
Diamonds Are Ancient
For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-
Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich
Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption
o l h h
Deep-focus earthquake activity
High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds
Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds
Lithospheric diamonds
Oceaniclithosphere
When De Beers introduced the slogan “A diamond is forever” in 1947, they were referring to diamond as a symbol of everlasting love. But four decades later, when the first measurements of diamond ages showed some to be more than three billion years old (Richardson et al., 1984), the romantic tagline became even more fitting. Prior to these measurements, there was considerable debate over whether the diamonds brought up in kimberlite magmas were phenocrysts (crystals grown directly from the magma) or xenocrysts (foreign, preexisting crystals simply picked up by the magma). The latter proved true—the three-billionyear-old diamonds must have grown and lain dormant in the mantle for billions of years before being swept to the surface in the Cretaceous-age (145–66 million years, or Ma) Kimberley and Finsch kimberlites.
Carbonated slab melting
Hydrous uid
Figure 1. This cross section through ancient thickened continental lithosphere and underlying mantle shows the two major depth intervals of diamond formation. The majority of mined diamonds originate from the lithospheric mantle. Some rare diamonds originate from great depths in the sublithospheric mantle. Within both groups, diamond formation is likely to occur across a range of depths within the mantle. Note that the depth is drawn to scale to illustrate relative depths accurately.
Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).
Diamond growth may occur somewhat quickly compared to its age, building up a crystal layer by layer over thousands or perhaps millions of years. The subsequent period of mantle residence at conditions of high pressure and temperature can permit changes in the diamond morphology, internal structure, and atomic-scale defects. A well-known change affects the configuration of nitrogen atoms, the most abundant impurity in natural diamonds. Nitrogenatoms migrate from their isolated initial configurations to form pairs, and slowly the pairs reconfigure into groups of four atoms
plus a vacancy. Taken collectively, these changes create the ancient geologic signature of natural diamonds, which cannot be created during very brief laboratory growth. As shown in figure 2, diamonds have formed over a wide range of the earth’s geologic history. The oldest dated examples are diamonds with an age of 3.5–3.3 Ga (billion years) from the Diavik and Ekati mines in northern Canada. For perspective, the age of the earth is 4.54 Ga. Many diamonds are ancient and predate the so-called Cambrian Explosion at 541 Ma, when a prolific increase in the complexity and abundance of life appears in the fossil record, one of the most significant time stamps in geology. However, not all diamonds fall within the Precambrian span of distant geologic time. Some fairly young diamond ages around 90 Ma have been measured at Jagersfontein and Koffiefontein in South Africa. Most deposits have multiple diamond populations that can vary in age. Jwaneng, Letlhakane, and Orapa in Botswana each contain six or more dated episodes of diamond formation (Smit et al., 2022).
and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).
The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.
It is also worth noting that the majority of fibrous diamonds, a non-gem diamond variety with abundant micro-inclusions that give them a translucent or opaque appearance, are understood to be close in age to their kim-berlite hosts and therefore relatively young. It is even possible that diamonds are forming right now and may be carried to the surface by some future kimberlite millions of years from now. A recent review of diamond dating and ages is given by Smit et al. (2022).
For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-
The fact that diamonds can be dated is exciting, but the process is far from straightforward. Strictly speaking, the ages described here are mineral inclusion ages. The interpretation
is that the age corresponds to how long the mineral has been trapped and sealed within the host diamond, thereby giving the age of diamond formation. Dating is based on exploiting radioactive elements in some inclusions that break down over time at a known rate, offering us the ability to read a built-in clock. For example, radioactive decay from the parent-daughter pairs Re-Os, Rb-Sr, and Sm-Nd are all used in diamond dating, from inclusions such as iron-nickel sulfide, clinopyroxene, and garnet. Given that only some inclusions are appropriate for this kind of analysis and the process is destructive, it is often challenging to date the diamonds from any given deposit. A comprehensive introduction to diamond dating can be found in Smit and Shirey (2019).
Large-Scale Processes of Diamond Formation
bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).
A key observation from decades of diamond studies is that diamonds can form in multiple distinct ways involving different host rocks, carbon sources, and diamond-forming reactions (Shirey et al., 2013). Interestingly, many of these diamond-forming processes appear to be linked to largescale movements of solid rocks and fluid phases, such as the formation of continents and the release of melts and volatiles from tectonic plates as they sink and subduct into the mantle (e.g., Shirey and Richardson, 2011; Walter et al., 2011; Weiss et al., 2015; Shirey et al., 2024). Cross sections of the earth illustrating this activity often depict regions stretching hundreds or thousands of kilometers wide (figure 3).
Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich
Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption
In most cases, diamond growth in the mantle is said to be metasomatic, meaning it occurs as mobile carbon-bearing fluids invade preexisting solid host rocks and undergo changes that cause carbon to crystallize into a solid form.
Continental lithosphere Temp. (°C)
CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds
slab melting
(°C)
Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).
Figure 2. Earth’s geologic timescale, showing the formation times of select groups of diamonds. Note that many localities actually have multiple populations of diamonds that can vary in age. Unlike many geologic timelines that are distorted to fit information and labels, this one is linear and drawn to scale, from 4.54 billion years ago (Ga) to the present day. Timeline modified from Smit and Shirey (2019).
Carbonated
High-quality
and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).
The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.
dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).
Figure 3. Generalized cross section of the earth showing diamond formation. There is an integral connection between plate tectonics, mantle dynamics, and diamonds. Settings and activities relating to diamond growth are often linked to large-scale processes, such as deep subduction recycling and continental growth and thickening (e.g., by subduction stacking). In both the continental lithosphere and the sublithospheric mantle, diamond formation is facilitated by carbon-bearing fluids. The composition of the carbon-bearing fluid can vary greatly, as can the mineralogy of the host rocks where diamonds grow. Earth’s curvature and layers are drawn to scale.
One of the most studied fluid types has been COH fluids (mixtures of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen), which in simple terms can be thought of as a watery fluid mixture dominated by the molecules H2O (water), CH4 (methane), and CO2 (carbon dioxide). Diamond formation in the lithosphere could occur from such a fluid as the temperature and pressure decrease when it percolates upward through mantle rocks by the following chemical reaction (Luth and Stachel, 2014):
For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-
CO2 + CH4 → 2H2O + 2C (solid diamond)
Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich
Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption
Continental lithosphere
Depth (km)
Deep-focus earthquake activity
packages of rock derived from the subducted slab that rise under their own buoyancy. They may reside at the base of the continental lithosphere for an extended period (Timmerman et al., 2023) before later being drawn up to the earth’s surface in a kimberlite.
High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds
Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds
Lithospheric diamonds
Changing conditions force the fluid-borne carbon in carbon dioxide and methane to recombine into solid native carbon as diamond. Other diamond-forming fluids thought to be relevant to diamond growth range in composition from hydrous, silicic, carbonatitic, and saline to potentially even metal-sulfide melts (Luth et al., 2022). Perhaps the most curious diamond-forming medium is the Fe-Ni-C-S metallic melt found as inclusions in some CLIPPIR diamonds, a sublithospheric variety that includes most top gem-quality type IIa diamonds (Smith et al., 2016). CLIPPIR diamonds are anomalous in being the only gem-quality diamonds that contain large (>10 μm) inclusions of the growth medium. Coming back to the sense of spatial scale, CLIPPIR diamonds are an impressive example of large-scale movements. These crystals grow from ingredients delivered by descending oceanic plates that have been altered by sea-water at the ocean floor and then subducted down to the mantle transition zone and the top of the lower mantle at 660 km (Smith et al., 2016, 2021). After growth, these diamonds are carried upward, potentially within low-density
Oceaniclithosphere
Carbonated slab melting Hydrous uid
It is no coincidence that diamond is linked to large-scale processes. After all, diamond is made of carbon, which plays an important role in lowering the melting point of mantle rocks, facilitating partial melting and the generation of magmas. Carbon’s concentration in the mantle hovers around a few hundred parts per million but varies considerably with geological processes, such as volcanic activity. Carbon can also be introduced to the mantle by subducting slabs, both in sediments and altered oceanic crust. The balance of carbon entering the mantle through subduction and leaving the convecting mantle as magmas, volatiles, or metasomatic fluids forms the deep carbon cycle, which is critical in regulating atmospheric carbon dioxide over million-year timescales. The behavior of carbon influences geochemical cycles, mantle dynamics, and tectonic processes, not to mention the earth’s ability to sustain life. Considering that ours is the only known planet with plate tectonics and an active deep carbon cycle, the formation of diamonds in the mantle may be somewhat unique to Earth. And peering into diamonds gives insights into the inner workings of our planet in a way that no other mineral can rival (figure 4).
Magmatic Journey to the Surface
Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).
While the multifarious crystallization of diamonds in the
Figure 4. Peering inside a natural diamond can give scientists an unparalleled perspective into the earth’s interior. Diamonds capture a lasting record of deep mantle processes over billion-year timescales, making them a unique window into geological space and time. Image created using Adobe Photoshop Generative AI.
and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).
The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.
mantle is remarkable, yet another independent mechanism is responsible for bringing them up to the earth’s surface. Early diamond mining in India, Indonesia, and Brazil was all alluvial, meaning that loose diamonds were extracted from river sediments or other sedimentary deposits. These diamonds were plucked clean from their primary sources by weathering and transported and mixed with assorted grains, obscuring their mantle origins. In 1867, alluvial diamonds were discovered in South Africa along the banks of the Orange River, which set off a diamond rush that led to the discovery of weathered primary deposits in 1871 (Field et al., 2008). The new diamond-bearing igneous rocks became known as kimberlites, after the nearby town of Kimberley.
For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-
Diamonds are transported great distances vertically from the original settings in which they formed. Taking this into account helps explain the challenge of determining a diamond’s geographic origin. Multiple layers of evidence from diamonds and their inclusions show considerable overlap in the conditions of diamond formation from one locality to the next on a worldwide basis. Unfortunately, this reality means there may not be any geographically distinct features that would allow scientists to analyze a diamond and ascertain its country or mine of origin (Smith et al., 2022).
Rarity
bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).
The popularity and availability of gem diamonds combined with some persistent myths have left some people wondering how rare natural diamonds really are. In terms of its natural abundance on earth, diamond is a relatively rare mineral. Prospectors and geologists who make a career searching for diamond deposits tend to come up dry. Considerable ongoing expenditures by mining and exploration companies to locate new deposits would be foolish if not for their rarity. Only through modern mining practices responding to global demand have diamonds become as available as they are today.
Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich
Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption
Continental lithosphere
Kimberlites, and to a lesser extent lamproites and other related rocks, represent the most deeply derived magmas to erupt at the earth’s surface. Although many details remain unresolved, they are thought to be produced by low-degree partial melting in the asthenosphere, which produces a carbonate-rich magma with an evolving composition en route to the surface (Giuliani et al., 2023). A high initial content of volatiles in the melt, chiefly water and carbon dioxide, serves as fuel to help crack overlying rocks and propel the magma to the earth’s surface. The release of gases increases dramatically as the ascending magma approaches the surface. Over the roughly 200–300 km journey, the melt rips up pieces of rock and crystal grains, including diamonds occasionally, and may reach the surface rapidly, in a matter of just hours to days. With the element of chance involved, and considering the relatively high density of diamonds and mantle rocks as well as the fact that the magma threatens to oxidize or graphitize diamonds along the way due to the change in pressure and temperature, it is impressive that any diamonds make it all the way to the surface.
Deep-focus earthquake activity
High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds
Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds
Lithospheric diamonds
Oceaniclithosphere
In total there are about 7,000 known kimberlites and related mantle-sourced magmatic rocks worldwide, but only about 1,000 are of potential economic interest for diamonds (Kjarsgaard et al., 2022). Of these, even fewer have the right combination of size, quality, and abundance of diamonds as well as favorable logistical factors that would make mining feasible (such as the deposit’s depth, shape, and proximity to infrastructure). The question is always whether the sale of mined diamonds will actually outweigh the costs of exploration, mining, and reclamation and remediation when operations cease. Altogether there are fewer than 100 productive diamond mines past or present globally (Kjarsgaard et al., 2022). At most of these localities, the abundance of diamonds is still so low that they are almost never seen in the kimberlite—they only become visible at the final stages of ore processing. A decent ore grade is in the neighborhood of one carat per tonne, meaning a bathtub full of precious diamond-bearing kimberlite would contain on average one carat total weight of rough diamonds. More often than not, a tonne of ore contains multiple small diamonds, while seldom does it contain a gem-quality diamond exceeding one carat.
Carbonated slab melting Hydrous uid
Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).
It is helpful to put diamonds in perspective by comparing them to another rare and precious material mined on an industrial scale: gold. By weight, about 125 times more gold is mined annually. Furthermore, only about one-third
and the expected mineralogy and phase changes within slab rocks. Overlaying the slab geotherms onto phase diagrams helps to illustrate where water-bearing phases break down and release fl uid, such as the relatively well-accepted loss of most water from warm slabs at relatively shallow depths (<200 km). This is the activity that generates melt and fuels arc volcanoes such as those of the Pacifi c Ring of Fire. Cold slabs, however, can partially bypass this shallow dewatering process and transport a budget of carbonate and water to depths beyond 300 km, where its later release can cause deep-focus earthquakes (figure 3).
of the 110–130 million carats of diamond mined each year is actually of gem quality, with larger and higher-clarity diamonds being the scarcest. Global diamond production fluctuates year to year as mining output varies. The end of mining at Argyle in Australia in 2020 impacted the market, as will the expected end of production at Diavik in 2026. For now, the only new mine of similarly large scale is the Luele mine in Angola, which began production in 2023. Although diamonds may be actively forming deep in the mantle, it is important to recognize that the only diamonds available to humanity are the ones already at the surface. They are inherently finite in supply, and only a limited number of deposits are feasible to mine.
Mining and Its Impacts
The cold slabs can be thought of as having a carbonated crust component and a hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite component that lies shielded beneath the crust, toward the interior of the slab. The deep release of carbonatitic melt and hydrous fl uid from each component, respectively, is shown in the two depth profiles in figure 3. The carbonated crust (mid-ocean ridge basalt, or MORB) of the slab surface will intersect a deep depression in its solidus, the curve describing the beginning of melting, meaning it exceeds the melting temperature. Beyond this point, carbonate melting (red arrows) is expected to occur within the top/crustal portion of the slab.
For hydrated/serpentinized mantle peridotite inside the slab, its stability also depends on temperature. If it remains cool, the serpentine can metamorphose into higher-pressure water-
Our world is underpinned by mining, an enormous industry largely hidden from view. Diamond mining has on several occasions entered the spotlight due to human rights concerns. In 2003, the Kimberley Process was established as an international certification scheme to prevent “conflict diamonds” from entering the mainstream rough diamond market. This has been a positive step forward, but it is not without challenges. Approximately 15% of global diamond production is from small-scale artisanal mining, and the people involved in these operations are most at risk of exploitation, violence, unsafe working conditions, and other problems. There are several corporate or industry initiatives focused on supporting and empowering artisanal diamond miners and communities, including Diamonds Do Good, the Diamond Development Initiative, Root Diamonds, and GemFair.
bearing minerals called dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) rather than breaking down. DHMS phases are a good vehicle for transporting water, with some carrying as much as 10% or more water by weight. The geotherm for the interior of cold slabs remains in the DHMS stability fi eld far beyond a depth of 300 km (far right in figure 3). The slab in figure 3 is shown defl ecting as it reaches the top of the lower mantle (at 660 km), where there is a change in mantle density and deformability. As the slab stalls and warms up, DHMS phases break down to form minerals that carry much less water, thereby causing water release (blue arrows in figure 3). These are the mechanisms proposed to trigger not only deep-focus earthquakes but also super-deep diamond growth (Shirey et al., 2021).
much different. Diamond mining is not as detrimental as many other forms of mining. Diamonds are extracted from rocks without the need for refining and smelting, as is the case for extracting copper or nickel from sulfide minerals, for instance. Diamond ore from a mine is crushed and diamonds are extracted mechanically, so the primary waste material is crushed rock. The recovery process uses water but few additional chemicals, if any. Curiously, the mineralogy of kimberlites is such that the weathering of this rock after crushing actually consumes carbon dioxide, with the potential to partially or even completely offset the carbon dioxide released by the mine (Mervine et al., 2018).
Inclusions in the smaller, lower-quality varieties of sublithospheric diamonds often show evidence of growth from carbonatitic melts derived from slabs (Walter et al., 2008), but hydrous/aqueous fl uids have also been implicated for some samples (Wirth et al., 2007; Pearson et al., 2014; Palot et al., 2016). Serpentinite in subducting slabs can be relatively enriched in boron, meaning that the eventual breakdown of hydrous minerals from serpentinized peridotite can release boron-bearing hydrous fl uid, which has been linked with the formation of type IIb (boron-bearing) diamonds (Smith et al., 2018). Figure 4 shows a calcium silicate (breyite) inclusion with methane and hydrogen in a type IIb diamond. The original mineral inclusion may have been relatively hydrogen-rich
Diamond-bearing kimberlite eruption
Continental lithosphere
Less attention has been paid to some of the positive social impacts of diamond mining. Botswana is a great example. In 1967, only a year after Botswana gained independence from British rule, a large diamond deposit at Orapa became a beacon of hope for one of the world’s poorest countries at the time. Several additional deposits were soon found, and Botswana formed a partnership with De Beers. Today, Botswana is the top diamond producer by value, with the revenues providing significant economic benefits such as job creation and funding for critical infrastructure and social programs. The prudent management of diamond revenues has facilitated economic diversification, contributed to political stability, and positioned Botswana as a model for resource-rich developing countries.
Deep-focus earthquake activity
High-quality CLIPPIR and type IIb diamonds
Low-quality, non-gem sublithospheric diamonds
Lithospheric diamonds
Artisanal diamond mining involves recovery from rivers or nearby sediments. The area affected by mining activity may be larger, but the depth that miners can reach with hand tools is limited to a few meters and the landscape is often reclaimed by vegetation when mining ceases. Larger mines targeting large alluvial deposits or primary deposits leave a larger footprint, typically some 20 to 30 square miles, often situated in remote areas. When a diamond mine closes, current best practices aim to restore the land to as natural a state as possible. The Argyle mine, one of the world’s largest diamond mines, closed in 2020 after 37 years of operation. The owner, Rio Tinto, has a responsibility to reclaim and remediate the mine site, which involves dismantling the infrastructure, reshaping the land, and restoring vegetation. They are not permitted to simply abandon the site.
(°C)
Oceaniclithosphere
MORB Carb. melting
Solidus of
Carbonated slab melting
Hydrous uid
The Victor mine in Canada is another example of a recently closed diamond mine undergoing remediation. Victor was a relatively small but high-grade deposit. Mine construction began in 2006, and by 2019 the mining and processing was complete. With the infrastructure now demolished, rehabilitation of the site is well underway. The open pit has been transformed into a lake, and 1.4 million native trees and shrubs have been planted. For their remediation work at Victor, De Beers was recognized with the 2022 Tom Peters Memorial Mine Reclamation Award, presented by the Canadian Land Reclamation Association. Obviously it is impossible to truly “undo” damage to the environment, but the legally mandated steps taken by modern mining companies substantially reduce the long-term impact of diamond mining.
DHMS
(°C)
Breakdown of hydrous phases
Figure 3. Mantle cross section showing a relatively cool subducting slab, with an inset histogram of earthquake frequency (from figure 1). Profiles on the right show the slab surface and interior temperature during subduction. Where the slab surface temperature intersects the solidus of carbonated mid-ocean ridge basalt (MORB), partial melting may occur (red arrows). At the far right, a cold slab interior remains within the dense hydrous magnesium silicates (DHMS) stability field until the slab stalls and warms up, causing the breakdown of these hydrous phases and the release of hydrous fluid (blue arrows). Large white and smaller brown diamond symbols signify the growth of high-quality gem diamonds (CLIPPIR and type IIb) and low-quality, generally non-gem sublithospheric diamonds, respectively. Poorly understood mechanisms transport some diamonds upward where they can be swept up in kimberlite eruptions and mixed with common lithospheric diamonds (small black diamond symbols). Modified from Smith and Nestola (2021) with carbonated MORB solidus from Thomson et al. (2016b) and DHMS stability field from Harte (2010).
In addition to social impact, diamond mining has an impact on the environment. Marketing efforts portray laboratorygrown diamonds as a “green” alternative to mined diamonds, but this is not a straightforward comparison. Both have environmental impacts, but their impacts are
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The authors wish to thank Dr. Jim Butler for his insightful comments and feedback.
In China, jade symbolises purity and immortality and can be more valuable than diamonds. A high-quality jade bangle can sell for millions, especially if it's imperial green and translucent.
Psychologists say that accessorising, especially with meaningful jewellery, can trigger positive emotions and increase self-perceived confidence.
Did you know?
The diamond engagement ring trend started in 1947 with the De Beers famous slogan: “A Diamond is Forever.” Before that, rings often featured sapphires, rubies or even plain metal bands.
Traditional mechanical watches are sensitive to magnets. High-end models now use silicon components or anti-magnetic alloys to stay accurate even in tech-heavy environments.
Dubbed the "Heist of the Century," thieves stole over US$100 million worth of diamonds, gold and jewellery from the Antwerp Diamond Center in Belgium – without triggering a single alarm. The ringleader used homemade keys and spaghetti sauce to distract sniffer dogs.
Ancient Greeks wore amethyst and even carved goblets from it to prevent intoxication. Its name comes from the Greek word “amethystos,” meaning “not drunk.”
Both rubies and sapphires are made of corundum. What makes a ruby red is the presence of chromium.
Solar watches don’t need direct sunlight – they can be charged by any light source, including lamps and indoor lighting. They convert light into electrical energy using a solar cell beneath the dial.
Vaults are a critical component of security and asset management in the jewellery industry, protecting high-value stock from theft, damage and loss. With increasing risks and rising standards, secure vault systems are now essential to the reputation and resilience of jewellery businesses.
Vaults play a critical role in the jewellery industry, serving as the secure heart of operations where precious metals, gemstones and finished products are stored. For businesses operating within this sector, the effective management and security of vaults is not only a practical necessity, but also a fundamental element of risk management, insurance compliance and customer confidence. In South Africa, a country with a rich heritage in the mining and jewellery trade, the importance of vault security is amplified by the high value of goods and the complex supply chains involved.
Jewellery vaults are designed to offer the highest levels of physical security, environmental control and operational efficiency. The primary objective is to safeguard assets against theft, loss and damage while ensuring quick and controlled access for authorised personnel. These vaults typically incorporate a range of advanced security technologies, including reinforced steel construction, biometric access controls, alarm systems and 24/7 electronic surveillance. The physical design
Robust vault management
of vaults is complemented by strict operational protocols, such as dual control access, inventory reconciliation procedures and detailed audit trails to prevent internal and external breaches.
Environmental controls within vaults are also critical. Jewellery and precious metals are sensitive to humidity, temperature fluctuations and other environmental factors that could affect their quality or market value. Climate control systems are therefore often integrated to maintain optimal conditions, preserving the integrity of stored items over extended periods. This is particularly important for gems and metals susceptible to tarnishing or degradation.
In the South African context, the security of vaults is governed by both national legislation and industry standards. The Firearms Control Act and the National Key Points Act, among others, impose specific requirements on businesses handling high-value goods, including jewellery vault operators. Compliance with these legal frameworks is essential not only to avoid penalties, but also to qualify for insurance coverage.
Insurance providers typically require evidence of rigorous security measures and controls before underwriting policies for jewellery stock.
Many South African jewellers and manufacturers also seek accreditation from industry bodies such as the Jewellery Council of SA and the Responsible Jewellery Council, which advocate best practices in security and ethical business conduct. Aligning vault management protocols with these standards enhances credibility and fosters trust among clients and trading partners.
Modern vault management increasingly incorporates technological innovations beyond
“Training staff in security protocols, risk awareness and emergency response is vital to maintain the integrity of vault operations. Regular security audits, both internal and external, help identify vulnerabilities and ensure continuous improvement.“
physical security. Inventory management systems integrated with barcode scanning or radiofrequency identification allow for real-time tracking and verification of stock levels. These systems reduce human error, facilitate faster audits and provide detailed reporting capabilities that enhance transparency and accountability.
The role of personnel in vault security cannot be overstated. Training staff in security protocols, risk awareness and emergency response is vital to maintain the integrity of vault operations. Regular security audits, both internal and external, help identify vulnerabilities and ensure continuous improvement.
Additionally, contingency planning forms a core part of vault management strategies. Businesses must be prepared for scenarios such as attempted theft, fire, natural disasters or system failures. Comprehensive emergency procedures, including back-up power supplies, off-site data storage and co-ordinated response plans with local law enforcement, are essential components of a robust security framework.
As the jewellery industry evolves, the demand for heightened vault security continues to
grow. Factors such as rising precious metal prices, increased international trade and heightened regulatory scrutiny requires South African jewellery businesses to invest in state-of-the-art vault infrastructure and processes. In this competitive and high-value market, the ability to guarantee the safety and integrity of jewellery stock is fundamental to maintaining market reputation and operational viability.
In conclusion, vaults represent a cornerstone of security and operational excellence within the jewellery industry. For South African professionals, understanding and implementing best practices in vault management is essential to protecting valuable assets, complying with regulatory requirements and meeting the expectations of discerning customers and partners. Through a combination of advanced technology, stringent protocols and continuous risk assessment, jewellery businesses can ensure their vaults serve as secure bastions safeguarding the industry’s most precious commodities.
BORN IN AFRICA
A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of refining members and members of the Jewellery Manufacturers' Association of South Africa –proudly showcasing manufacturers committed to crafting quality jewellery locally.
ADELE'S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS
Tel no: 082 595 3868
E-mail: adele@amj.co.za
AFRICAN TRADE BEADS
JEWELLERY COLLECTION
Tel no: 011 726 7643
E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com
AFROGEM
Tel no: 076 726 8491
E-mail: k ylegilson@mweb.co.za; jess@afrogem.co.za; info@afrogem.co.za; accounts@jppe.co.za; leighann@afrogem.co.za
All JCSA member details were correct at time of going to press. Whilst every eff ort has been made to ensure the accuracy of contents, the Jewellery Council of South Africa can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or any misfortune, injury, consequences or damages which may arise therefrom.
LOGISTICS SOUTHERN AFRICA (PTY) Building 3, OR Tambo International Airport Special Economic Zone, Bonaero Drive, Bonaero Park, 1619 Tel: +27 87 654 2543 | Cell: +27 72 472 7170 / +27 66 488 2055 Email: info.za@ferrarigroup.net | Website: www.ferrarigroup.net
ne va cus by luation questio tomers.” d f ds nc Y th uat ure Sou for p ion certificate examples customer confide OU that o rovides standar val ens e.
My valuation certificates are being questioned by customers.” DID YOU KNOW that the Jewellery Council of South Africa provides recommended standards for aluation practices and certificate examples to nsure professionalism and customer confidence. The Jewellery Council of South Africa is a
Rising Demand, Consistent Supply!
We’ve seen a noticeable increase in demand for certain diamonds, including fancy colours, specific fancy shapes, as well as commercial and oversize stones. This growing interest enables us to offer goods at highly competitive prices helping to keep the market active.
At BYL Diamonds, we stay closely aligned with current market trends and client requests to ensure we have exactly what our clients are looking for at all times. Whether you need commercial goods, rare fancy colours or large investment stones, we’re confident that we can supply the right stone at the right price.
Our extensive inventory is available across our key locations in Cape Town, Johannesburg and London, giving clients easy access to a wide range of top stones.