Club + Resort Chef May 2024

Craig Chef, Mentor, leader, Advocate

Scott

Editorial Staff For Club + Resort Business

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Greg Sanders

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Phil Keren pkeren@wtwhmedia.com 216-399-9069

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Food + Beverage: Marilyn Odesser-Torpey

Editorial Staff For Club + Resort Chef

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

SENIOR EDITOR

Isabelle Gustafson igustafson@wtwhmedia.com 216-296-2041

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Pamela Brill

Lauren Newman

Robert Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET

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Club + Resort Chef Editorial Advisory Committee

James Allen, CEC Executive Chef, Blackthorn Club at the Ridges Jonesborough, Tenn.

Lance Cook, WCMC, CEC, CCA, CFBE, FMP, CFSM Executive Chef, Hammock Dunes Club Palm Coast, Fla.

K. Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC Executive Chef, Cullasaja Club Highlands, N.C.

Laura Herman, CEPC Executive Pastry Chef, Shoreacres Lake Bluff, Ill.

Vincent Horville Executive Chef, The Metropolitan Club of the City of Washington (D.C.)

Michael Matarazzo, CEC Executive Chef, Farmington CC, Charlottesville, Va.

Robert Meitzer, CEC, CCA Executive Chef, Forest Lake Club Columbia, S.C.

Tim Recher, CEC, AAC, CWX Director of Culinary Operations, Quail West G&CC Naples, Fla.

Scott Ryan, CEC, AAC, Executive Chef, The Country Club Pepper Pike, Ohio

J. Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC

9 Adam Heath’s Salmon Brûlée Brings An Updated Local Dish to Members

”Innovation doesn’t always require reinventing the wheel,”

The Houston Racquet Club Executive Chef notes. “I found ways to improve upon the dish and make it uniquely suited to the preferences of my club members.”

10 Transforming an Industry

One Ser vice at a Time

Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC, Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club, is reshaping the club culinary landscape, mentoring the next generation of talent, and pushing th boundaries of what it means to be a chef in a modern club environment.

16 Achieving Success Through Collaboration and Narrative

Conor Ball, C+RC’s 2024 Chef of the Year, integrates personal and cultural narratives into his dishes, backed by a dedicated and collaborative team at Martis Camp Club.

18 Bon Appétit: Polo Patisserie Brings French Flavor to Florida

Led by Executive Pastry Chef and Chocolatier Devin Cowan, this specialty shop promises to transport The Polo Club’s members. 20 Form and Function: Club Chefs Share Plating Philosophies

A dish’s presentation sets the tone for an overall exceptional culinary experience. 24 Creating the Perfect Wine Service

This guide details the essentials of professional wine service, focusing on preparation, presentation, and etiquette. 26 2nd Helpings

Annual member event themes let chefs build on winning formulas for fabulous food.

30 The Casual Dining Revolution Continues

At the Country Club of Maryland, Executive Chef John Koursaros is crafting more casual dining experiences in response to member preferences, with support from the new GM/COO Kate Reinhart.

2 The Culture of Club Culinary: Strategies

Among other tactics, club chefs, GMs and hiring managers describe finding success in team members who fit the club’s culture, rather than those who start with specific skills.

FROM INSPIRATION TO ACTION

I LOVE QUOTES. When I was younger, I used to carry notebooks around and write down things I’d heard people say that I thought were inspiring.

During the 2024 Chef to Chef Conference in Austin, Sean Brock shared one quote that definitely would have made it into one of my notebooks: “The only worth you’ll ever need can easily come from waking up each day and making an honest effort to contribute to a community you love.”

Those words capture our ethos perfectly.

The buzz coming out of Austin wasn’t just about the incredible sessions, the Chef of the Year Competition, the networking opportunities, or the innovative ideas shared. It’s also about what’s next: Baltimore 2025.

For Austin, we poured all our energy into crafting an agenda that resonated with the needs of club and resort chefs. The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. This affirms our commitment to content that informs and inspires.

Baltimore offers many unique opportunities for the 2025 Chef to Chef Conference. The city is home to a number of prestigious clubs with talented and eager chefs, like Richard Jallet of Baltimore Country Club, who have stepped up to collaborate with us so we can offer an experience that dives deep into the regional club scene while also continuing to create content that resonates with the industry.

Our goal for 2025 is clear: to push the envelope on what it means to be a part of the Chef to Chef community. Baltimore 2025 will be more than just a series of sessions; it will be a dynamic space for learning and genuine community engagement. So, please mark your calendars for March 23-25, 2025, and join us in Baltimore.

In an effort to further contribute, I would also like to invite you to be a part of our latest initiative—a comprehensive survey on club kitchen renovations. We are gathering data on renovation practices, which will help us understand and enhance how club kitchens are updated and maintained. Your participation will be instrumental in shaping effective industry strategies. Please take 15 minutes to complete the survey, accessible via the QR code on page 12.

Our commitment doesn’t end there. PlateCraft 2024 awaits. From Nov. 3-5 at Cullasaja Club (Highlands, N.C.), this highly exclusive and intimate event will offer a unique opportunity to learn from club industry leaders and engage in hands-on workshops. Last year, PlateCraft sold out in five days. Be on the lookout, as we plan to open registration in the next few weeks.

During my performance review this year, my boss told me that he’s never encountered an editor who cares about the industry they cover as much as I do.

So, while Sean Brock’s sentiment would have made it into my notebook, I’d add a footnote: True fulfillment comes not only from contributing to a community we love but also from challenging ourselves to evolve and elevate that community to new heights.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com

412-260-9233

Teardrop

Round

Amuse Bouche Spoons

Catalog

EDITORIAL CONTROL: A FRESH APPROACH TO OUR SOCIAL MEDIA

CLUB + RESORT CHEF’S social media strategy is changing. In the interest of transparency, we want to let you know how.

Previously, our social media was managed by a dedicated social media manager who was not directly part of our editorial team. She worked closely with the editors to ensure that the content our brands were posting was accurate and aligned with our editorial strategy. However, if you engaged with our posts, she usually responded directly or passed your comment or question on to us.

Now, the editorial team—me and Joanna DeChellis (Editor-in-Chief)—will personally manage the social media channels representing Club + Resort Chef, Club + Resort Recipes, the Chef to Chef Conference, PlateCraft, and the Club + Resort Chef Association.

This shift presents a new challenge for us, but it’s also an opportunity to better connect with you, our readers, conference attendees, and friends on a more personal level each day.

C+RC was founded on connecting with our audience on their terms. This change aligns

perfectly with those core values. By managing our social media directly, Joanna and I can ensure more authentic engagement and respond to your needs and interests with greater immediacy and relevance. This approach will enrich your experience and strengthen the community we’re building together.

So, make sure you’re following our channels to keep up with industry leaders, trends, and content—by and for club and resort culinarians—plus event news and other programming.

LinkedIn: @club-resort-chef Instagram: @clubresortchef Facebook: @clubresortchef

Please don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions, comments, ideas—or just to say hi.

SENIOR EDITOR Isabelle Gustafson igustafson@wtwhmedia.com

216-296-2041

SALMON BRÛLÉE

with corn custard and arugula salad

Ingredients for char-grilled salmon:

4 ea. salmon fillets, skinless (about 6 oz. ea.) to taste salt to taste pepper olive oil as needed, for grilling

Procedure for char-grilled salmon:

1. Preheat grill to medium-high heat.

2. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper on both sides.

3. Place the salmon fillets on the grill.

4. Grill for about 3-4 minutes on each side, or until the salmon is cooked through and has grill marks.

5. Remove from the grill. Set aside.

Ingredients for corn custard:

2 cups corn kernels, fresh or frozen

4 ea. eggs, large

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup milk

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated 1/4 cup herbs, chopped fresh (such as parsley, chives or thyme) to taste salt to taste pepper

Procedure for corn custard:

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly spray the dish or cooking vessel.

2. Blend 1 cup of corn kernels until coarsely chopped.

3. In a mixing bowl, beat the eggs. Add heavy cream, milk, Parmesan cheese, herbs, salt and pepper. Mix well.

4. Fold chopped and whole corn kernels into the egg mixture.

5. Pour into the selected dish or bowl.

6. Bake for 35-45 minutes until set and golden.

Ingredients for arugula salad:

2 Tbsps. lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil to taste salt to taste pepper

4 cups baby arugula

Procedure for arugula salad:

1. Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper (for dressing).

2. Toss the arugula with dressing until evenly coated. Serve immediately.

To plate:

1. Place a portion of the corn custard on each plate.

2. Top with char-grilled salmon fillet.

Adam Heath

Executive Chef, Food and Beverage Director

The Houston Racquet Club

For his salmon brûlée dish, Adam Heath, CEC, Executive Chef and Food and Beverage Director of The Houston Racquet Club, drew inspiration from a local Houston steakhouse.

“Innovation doesn’t always require reinventing the wheel,” Heath notes. “I found ways to improve the dish and make it uniquely suited to the preferences of my club’s members. ... Seeing their positive reactions and enjoyment truly affirmed [this dish’s] success.”

Transforming an Industry One Service at a Time

Scott Craig, CEC,

CCA, WCMC, Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club,

is reshaping the club culinary landscape, mentoring the next generation of talent, and pushing the boundaries of what it means to be a chef in a modern club environment.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-In-Chief

TO FULLY APPRECIATE SCOTT

Craig’s impact on club culinary, one must first understand what motivates him every time he ties his apron on and sharpens his knives.

When Craig approaches a dish, his focus lies on the synergy between each element. A garnish is never superfluous. A sauce is never composed carelessly.

Proteins are cooked to exacting standards. Quality and creativity are never questioned. He scrutinizes every element both for its individual merit and its role in the final presentation.

For Craig, the craft of cooking is a series of calculated steps culminating in a fleeting artistic expression. Unlike a painting, a story, or a song, though, his

art is transient—each dish existing only for the moment before it’s gone forever.

Craig’s influence on the culinary side of the club industry stands in stark contrast to his dishes. It’s enduring and cumulative. His career has taken him through some of the nation’s most prestigious club kitchens. He spent years devoted to refining his craft under

Scott Craig meticulously arranges a gold medalwinning platter at the 2012 Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, showcasing his skill and attention to detail.

the guidance of formidable mentors. He earned numerous certifications through the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (Worldchefs) and the American Culinary Federation (ACF). He has competed on a global stage at the most elite levels and come home victorious.

He is bold in confronting injustice and resilient in navigating crises. His leadership style is unique, and his ability to cultivate a team is second to none. His impact can be seen in the success of the many chefs who have prospered under his mentorship and taken the helm of their own kitchens.

It’s not any one of those things, but the sum of all these things, that defines him. While his individual dishes may not last more than a few moments, his contributions to the industry will last long after his final service.

SWITCHBACKS

Craig’s career is a story of continuous advancement, albeit along a nonlinear path.

“I was the first person in my family to go to college,” says Craig. “I majored in psychology and minored in religion; I was cooking to pay the bills. The creativity and camaraderie of the kitchen drew me in. The discipline was beneficial, too. I found a home in the kitchen—and I didn’t look back.”

During his college years, Craig became involved with the student chapter of the ACF, sparking his interest in competition. His first competition took him to Washington, D.C., in his ‘93 Mustang. It was there he met Hartmut Handke, CMC, during a cigarette break. “I didn’t know who [Handke] was at that point, just that he was a judge and that he was someone to be respected,” Craig recalls.

Handke asked to borrow a lighter, and in exchange for the light, he offered Craig some career-defining advice: Apprentice with a skilled chef before life’s commitments prevent you from being able to.

Taking this to heart, Craig, who was single and unattached, approached John Bell, the competition’s winner and

Executive Chef of Baltimore Country Club (BCC), seeking employment. “It could have been anybody, anywhere, in any industry, but [Bell] won first place, so I decided to follow him,” says Craig.

This decision kicked off the beginning of Craig’s club culinary career. While at BCC, he advanced through every station, ultimately becoming Restaurant Chef of the Taproom. During this time, he also met colleagues who would become lifelong friends, including Andrew Haapala, Executive Chef of the Country Club of Virginia.

“[Craig] was intense,” says Haapala of their first time meeting at BCC. “But he took me under his wing ... I wouldn’t have made nearly as many connections or friends in this industry without him. He is insanely caring—he

Haapala. “It’s not flashy or loud, but it’s powerful.”

Craig’s path took him back to Chevy Chase as Executive Chef when Buchner moved on, but he was eventually drawn back to MPCC by Mark Bado, MCM, CCE, who would quickly become another one of the most significant figures in Craig’s professional life. “We hit it off. Our personalities meshed, and I had the pleasure of returning to MPCC to work with [Bado] for another four years,” says Craig.

The two turned MPCC into a welloiled machine. They were adept at navigating the complexities of the pandemic and came out stronger on the other side. In April 2021, Bado moved on from MPCC to take a position at Houston Country Club. This

“I majored in psychology, studying behavior modification, which pays dividends to this day. I minored in religion, which is also useful; you can become an atheist and find God and become an atheist again in the middle of dinner service.”

cares more about his team than any chef I’ve ever met.”

During a 2003 competition, Craig encountered Joachim Buchner, CMC, one of the judges, a member of the Culinary Olympic Team and the Executive Chef of Chevy Chase (Md.) Club.

Craig made an impression and a few months later Buchner offered him a job.

Craig spent three years at Chevy Chase, deepening his knowledge and competitive edge, before reuniting with John Bell at Myers Park Country Club (MPCC) in Charlotte, stepping into a sous chef role and later advancing to executive chef. Haapala followed Craig to MPCC where he stayed for five more years.

“[Craig] has taken the best lessons from all the chefs he’s worked with to create his own leadership style,” says

change triggered Craig to reevaluate his priorities.

“COVID was a wake-up call to everything I’d given up for decades—nights, weekends, holidays, relationships,” says Craig. “I was sitting with my wife, Leah, on the porch one night during COVID, and I commented on how many people were out walking. She smiled and said, ‘They do that every day. You’re just not here to see it.’”

This realization spurred him to look for something different than anything he’d done before. He had heard about a highly seasonal club in mountains— Cullasaja Club—run by a well-respected General Manager by the name of Chris Conner, CCM, CCE. They were looking for a chef to replace the person who’d held the title for 27 years.

The transition from a detailed sketch (left) to a beautifully plated dish (right) showcases Scott Craig’s culinary artistry and precision in execution.

“I met with [Conner],” Craig says, “and everything fell into place.”

COOL-UH-SAY-JUH CLUB

Today, Craig is the Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club (Highlands, N.C.), which has 337 members. Last season, they served 28,000 meals, generating $1.2 million in F&B with virtually no banquet business. The club operates seasonally, from May 1 through Oct. 31. Craig leads a culinary team of 19, including Executive Sous Chef Mario Trujillo, who has been with him since MPCC.

“When [Craig] came to MPCC, I wasn’t sure if I would stay to work for him,” says Trujillo. “But one of my mentors advised me to give it a chance, and that turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve ever made.”

Trujillo quickly found that Craig’s drive, passion and motivation resonated with him. When Craig decided to move on from MPCC three years later to take the position at Cullasaja, Trujillo followed him.

Together, the two have tackled the challenge of adapting to a new operational environment, working with seasonal staff and elevating a much smaller but very busy culinary program. Their goal is to exceed the expectations of the club’s diverse membership.

“I give [Craig] a lot of credit for spending a full season with our former chef, learning from her and observing,” says Conner. “His biggest impact can be felt in the kitchen culture, the plates he’s putting up, and the advanced culinary techniques.”

Conner appreciates Craig’s ability to bridge the generational gap among members, particularly younger members who’ve recently moved to the area. “He balances the needs and desires of all our members exceptionally well,” says Conner.

“Chef is always adjusting and pivoting as needed,” says Trujillo. “He excels at putting people in roles where they can grow. I’m fortunate to be in a place where my professional goals align with his. He genuinely wants the best for me. And he strives to position me where I can succeed, learn and gain experiences.”

Craig’s leadership is rooted in building a strong, familial team dynamic. He sees his role as much more than just a chef; he is a mentor and a guide, fostering a supportive environment where his team can thrive. “I’ve been told I build a family wherever I go, caring about our folks to a fault,” he says. “I see the best in people, reflecting back to them their potential.”

This nurturing approach has allowed him to recognize when team members are ready to step beyond following recipes to creating their own. “It’s like drawing. First, we trace, then we copy, and then we create,” he says. His ability to identify when someone is ready to ‘create’ has propelled many under his guidance to advance, even if it means moving on from his kitchen.

Daniel Montano, CEC, Executive Chef of Mizner Country Club (Delray Beach, Fla.), is one such example. Having worked together at MPCC for

nearly four years, Montano graduated from Craig’s mentorship and moved on to run the operation at Berkshire Country Club in 2021. He says Craig taught him the importance of treating everyone with respect, no matter the situation. This profoundly influenced not only Montano’s career but also how he views leadership.

“His mentorship helped me grow from a burnt-out chef to someone who could take on greater responsibilities with confidence,” says Montano.

The sense of family Craig fosters extends beyond professional development. Six couples from his teams have married, highlighting the strong bonds in his kitchens. He even officiated the wedding of one couple— Josh and Stephanie Kim—further blurring the lines between leader, mentor, and friend.

COMPETITION AS FOUNDATION

Craig exemplifies leadership through communication and innovation, despite his “painful introversion.” “Being introverted makes constant communication exhausting, but I’ve learned to navigate it,” he admits. Raised as an only child for the first nine years of his life, his creativity, born from necessity, now fuels his culinary philosophy.

“The creative process is something I deeply enjoy,” he says. “From conceptualizing a dish to its execution, the journey is as sensory as it is temporary.”

Craig’s approach to cuisine is both

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art and science. It engages all senses in a way few other arts can claim. “There’s not an art in existence that encompasses as many senses as ours,” says Craig. “A dish exists for minutes, then it’s gone forever. That transient nature makes it even more beautiful.”

This same appreciation for the craft of culinary fuels Craig’s passion for competitions, which have played a critical role in shaping his career and honing his skills.

With no formal culinary education, competitions provided a unique arena to measure his talents against peers and receive feedback from respected chefs.

“Every competition, whether I won bronze or gold, was a lesson,” he says, viewing them as crucial educational experiences that accelerated his growth. “Being on Team USA 2020 was equivalent to gaining ten years of industry experience,” he adds.

Competitions also facilitated a

unique form of creative expression, allowing Craig to experiment with dishes and techniques that might not find a place on a typical club menu.

MENTEE TO MENTOR

Craig embraces his role as a mentor with humility, viewing himself as a perpetual student. He is driven by a commitment to pushing the next generation of chefs to expecting more from their careers, advocating for a balance between life and work that he once thought unattainable.

“I don’t think having a life and excelling at your craft should be mutually exclusive,” says Craig. “The most important thing to me is to create a kitchen where people like to come into work.”

At Cullasaja, Craig prioritizes hiring for attitude and passion, believing that while culinary skills can be taught, the right attitude is crucial for team harmony.

“The best parts of my day are when

I hear people laughing in the kitchen,” he says, adding that the laughter is the best indicator of a healthy work environment. It reassures him that his team feels safe, relaxed and valued, which is crucial for their personal and professional growth.

Craig offers this advice to younger chefs finding their way in this industry: “There is a perfect job for you. You don’t know what it is yet; it may not have been created yet. Your job in the interim is to make sure there’s no competition for it once you put your application in. … The investment you make in yourself today pays dividends tomorrow.”

And, he adds, chefs can achieve this while treating their teams and the people in their lives with respect.

“It’s incumbent on the next generation to continue to demand that we respect their time and their desire for worklife balance,” he says. “I hope we can collectively leave this industry better than we found it.” C+RC

KITCHEN RENOVATION

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Using Ingredients to Tell Stories: Conor Ball’s Chef of the Year Strategy

Conor Ball, C+RC’s 2024 Chef of the Year, integrates personal and cultural narratives into his dishes, backed by a dedicated and collaborative team at Martis Camp Club.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-in-Chief

CONOR BALL, EXECUTIVE

CHEF of Martis Camp Club in Truckee, Calif., captured the prestigious title of 2024 Club + Resort Chef of the Year at the Chef to Chef Conference in Austin, Texas. Alongside the honor, Ball received a $4,000 prize, recognizing his outstanding culinary skills and competitive prowess.

“I viewed this competition as a chance to elevate Martis Camp’s reputation and to highlight our culinary program’s strength,” Ball noted, emphasizing that his victory was a collective achievement reflecting the entire team’s effort at Martis Camp.

TAKING CENTER STAGE

Ball and his apprentice, Yafreicy Rodriguez, Banquet Chef of Cosmos Club in Washington, D.C., impressed

Conor Ball, Executive Chef of Martis Camp Club, and apprentice Yafreicy Rodriguez, Banquet Chef of Cosmos Club, worked together to win the Club + Resort Chef of the Year competition at the 2024 Chef to Chef Conference in Austin, Texas.

Conor Ball’s winning dishes were a pho beef tartare with pickled jalapeño, mango and crispy wonton (left), and a diver scallop ‘chowder’ infused with applewood smoked bacon, celery and fennel (right).

the judges with two dishes: a pho beef tartare with pickled jalapeño, mango and crispy wonton, and a diver scallop ‘chowder’ infused with applewood smoked bacon, celery and fennel.

“The pho beef tartare is a nod to the Vietnamese influences I grew up with in Olympia, Washington,” Ball explains. “The scallop ‘chowder’ is a tribute to my father, who loved traditional clam chowder and passed away earlier this year. This was my way of bringing him into the competition.”

The collaboration with Rodriguez was a highlight for Ball. Their teamwork contributed to his success in the competition. It fostered a lasting friendship, underscoring the personal and professional connections that often emerge as a hallmark of the Chef to Chef Conference.

“[Rodriguez] was amazing—detailoriented, focused, fast and clean,” says Ball. “I think we worked well together. She did a tremendous job at being able to look at my notes and figure out what she could do. Her communication skills are excellent, and she was able to adapt easily.”

Ball competed against Chloe Dykes from Lexington (Ky.) Country Club, Anthony Capua, CECC, from Brentwood Country Club in Los Angeles, and Kevin Murphy from Edgartown (Mass.) Yacht Club.

Dykes served a citrus shrimp small plate and a bulgogi prime tenderloin, securing her the runner-up position. Capua presented a Thai tartare ap-

petizer followed by a pan-seared diver scallop, while Murphy offered a menu featuring scallops and a tomato agua chile and an oven-roasted ribeye.

CREATIVITY IN THE CAMP KITCHEN

Creativity, high standards and a passion for food define Ball’s leadership at Martis Camp Club. He leads by example, consistently pushing culinary boundaries while fostering a learning-rich, innovative environment.

Ball’s style emphasizes local, seasonal ingredients. He crafts dishes that are visually striking and narratively rich. “Each ingredient has its own backstory,” he says. “I try to honor these stories in every dish.”

Martis Camp stands out among its peers due to its unique seasonal operations and diverse amenities. The club generates about $6 million in annual F&B revenue and has approximately 600 members.

The club’s seasonal bustle is influenced heavily by its mountainous location, offering ski-in/ski-out access in winter and golfing, mountain biking, and hiking in warmer months. Ball says the club is growing quickly, adding homes and expanding its facilities, including a range of dining options.

“We’re building an event facility that will include a full banquet kitchen,” says Ball. “We also recently renovated our ski lodge. Even though that facility was only about eight years old, we

invested $10 million in renovations because of increased member demand and usage.”

Ball is committed to fostering a team-oriented environment at Martis Camp. This approach ensures that every dish meets high standards and carries a story that resonates with the club’s discerning membership.

This emphasis on collaboration and shared vision was especially crucial as he prepared for the Chef to Chef Conference, an undertaking that demanded meticulous planning, practice and team effort.

Martis Camp’s Executive Pastry Chef, Alison Murphy, is an experienced culinary competitor herself. She played a crucial role in helping Ball fine-tune the presentation and flavors of his dishes.

With Murphy in his corner and a strategy that balanced wellpracticed techniques with on-the-spot adaptability, Ball conducted several trial runs with his team.

“The process of preparing together was just as important as the competition itself,” says Ball. “It strengthened our team and honed our skills.”

Winning Club + Resort Chef of the Year was a dual triumph for Ball— personally affirming his dedication and professionally boosting the club’s status in the culinary community. This recognition has opened new mentorship and collaboration opportunities, increased Martis Camp’s prestige, and validated Ball’s successful leadership and vision. C+RC

Polo Patisserie Brings French Flavor to Florida

Led by Executive Pastry Chef and Chocolatier Devin Cowan, this specialty shop promises to transport The Polo Club’s members.

AT THE POLO CLUB OF BOCA RATON (Fla.), members are transported daily to Paris—no passport needed. It’s thanks in large part to Executive Pastry Chef and Chocolatier Devin Cowan, among C+RC’s 2024 40 Under 40, who recently spearheaded the opening of the Polo Patisserie, a gourmet bake shop featuring house-made croissants, scones and custom delicacies.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

Cowan’s passion project is the culmination of a career that has allowed him to perfect his craft, while bringing his long-term vision into focus.

CARTE BLANCHE CULINARY

Cowan’s interest in baking took root as a young boy, but, as he explains, his style wasn’t entirely hands-on.

“My grandmother always baked

pies and cakes during the holidays,” he recalls. “She had an old oven, and I would intentionally jump around in the kitchen to make things collapse so I could eat the sweets.”

The budding foodie went on to major in organic chemistry during college, where he realized the synergy between his loves of science and pastry. (Spoiler alert: Culinary ultimately won out.) After

studying baking and pastry arts at the Louisiana Culinary Institute, followed by a brief stint at The Greenbrier, Cowan joined the team at The Polo Club, where he will soon celebrate his third anniversary.

While Cowan had high aspirations as a young chef, he was intent on not peaking too soon.

“I made a conscious decision in my career to not accept an executive or high-level management position too early on, so I could be more hands-on and master my craft,” he says.

Fully immersing himself in the pastry world taught him how to work with sugar and chocolate to create viennoiserie (breakfast pastry), breads, petit gâteau and specialty cakes.

Cowan’s all-in work ethic has served him well, particularly as his role at the club evolved along with the pastry program. Because his pastry department is a separate entity, he has complete autonomy over planning, production and execution. (Cowan does not report to a senior-level chef, but to General Manager/COO Liliana Hang and Director of Culinary and Dining Operations Antonio Campolio.) In addition to overseeing all baking, pastry, chocolate and confections on campus, he is given free rein when developing new concepts and ventures.

“I am empowered at this club to express my creativity without limit and bring my dreams to reality,” he says.

FRANCE AL FRESCO

Acquiring this sense of freedom led Cowan to put his idea for the Polo Patisserie into motion from the get-go.

Polo Patisserie, led by Executive Pastry Chef and Chocolatier Devin Cowan, offers artisanal bonbons and other sweets, plus croissants, quiches and scones, salads, open-faced sandwiches and more.

Inspired by a desire to combine his love of design and fashion, he tapped into his training and background in French pastry to create a distinct space that exemplifies a Parisian sidewalk café.

“I wanted a space that transports members,” says Cowan, “evoking memories of travel and celebrations— not just a place to grab a quick coffee or bite.”

What was originally a valet office just outside the clubhouse has been transformed into an accessible, walk-up spot with a greenery-framed service window and a few outdoor tables. While there are no seats indoors, patrons can enjoy al fresco dining within a newly designed orchid garden as they sample any number of house-made delicacies. Fresh croissants and quiches sell out every day, while scones, gourmet composed salads, açaí bowls and open-faced sandwiches offer further sustenance. On the beverage side, smoothies, cold-pressed juices and craft coffee drinks are top picks for pre- and postworkouts, golf rounds and tennis and pickleball matches.

Fresh ingredients are key to the patisserie’s menu—something in which

Cowan takes great pride and continues to cultivate. Sandwiches and quiches are plated with fresh greens grown at the club’s very own farm, Vintage Roots.

“I spend most Thursdays on our farm, caring for our eight beehives that produce a seasonal harvest of organic honey that I feature in many menu items,” he says. House-made honey is also available to members for purchase.

As if that weren’t sweet enough, the patisserie also sells a variety of culinary gifts, including custom baskets, artisanal bonbons, freshly packaged sweets and unique wine pairings. Cowan is already planning to expand his menu and gift selections in the coming months; rosé will be added to the wine list, and blended fruit bowls and seasonal ice creams (sold by the pint) will be part of the new lineup.

Because Cowan is well aware of how much members covet special releases, they can expect to see new limited-edition items, which will be advertised via the club’s social media accounts.

“The first drop of chocolate novelty Easter eggs sold out in the first hour,” he says, “and I can’t wait to announce the next one.” C+RC

Form and Function: Club Chefs Share Plating Philosophies

A dish’s presentation sets the tone for an overall exceptional culinary experience.

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

A CHEF’S CULINARY STYLE is personal, and this extends to presentation. Club chefs are tasked with crafting plates that represent themselves but also cater to club members’ tastes, while still pushing boundaries and exceeding expectations at every meal.

“Making a dish look pretty is essential in the culinary artistry that we do to elevate a meal from a basic to an extraordinary experience,” says Zouhair Bellout, Culinary Director and Executive Chef of Reynolds Lake

Zouhair Bellout, Culinary Director and Executive Chef of Reynolds Lake Oconee, finds inspiration in travel and cultural exploration, while maintaining respect for ingredients and seasonality.

Oconee (Greensboro, Ga.). “When you present [a dish] well, you’re not only going to stimulate the appetite of that member, but you’re also communicating, ‘I took care of that dish for you. I took care of all the details for you.’ It sets the stage for the experience you’re about to have.”

At Reynolds Lake Oconee, Bellout leads a $13M food-and-beverage operation across six dining rooms for more than 4,000 members. Among the most recent venues is a global street food concept, inspired by Bellout’s background and both his and the members’ international experiences.

“When I first started, there was a genuine interest about who I am,” he says, “and there was genuine interest about the food I grew up eating [in Morocco]. So I started experimenting with dishes from my culture, and the response was positive.”

Reynolds Lake’s membership is culturally diverse, too. Its International Club, made up of members who are either from another country or have lived abroad for at least six months, totals more than 400 people.

“That’s a substantial number of members who represent different cultures,” Bellout says, “and most of our members are well-traveled; they enjoy food from other countries and cultures. Why not have a concept dedicated to exactly that?”

The menu rotates, with a few mainstays, like Indian butter chicken. Current favorites include a Chinese chicken and mushroom dish and ful medames, an Egyptian dish, blended with a bit of Moroccan heritage.

For plating and presentation, Bellout finds inspiration from nature and each season. With this restaurant, there’s also a particular focus on each dish’s origins.

“I won’t put a garnish on a dish just because it looks cool,” he says. “If I’m putting a garnish on a dish, it has to 100 percent fit the dish from visual to flavor to origin.”

FEMININE FORCES

At Indian Hills Country Club—a Mission Hills, Kan.-based club with about 500 families and $3.8M in annual food-and-beverage revenue—specials are called ‘innovations.’

Because the members know and

Indian Hills CC’s Chef de Cuisine Erica Medina says color is her top plating tool. Her coastal sunshine salad, featuring Scarlet Butter lettuce, dehydrated pineapple, raspberries, jalapeños, mascarpone cheese, passion fruit vinaigrette and coconut pretzel granola, is a prime example. Recipe available at recipes.clubandresortchef.com.

trust her culinary style, Chef de Cuisine Erica Medina, CSC and C+RC 2024 40 Under 40 honoree, has full creative freedom.

“Midwestern clubs [can be] very traditional, and people want comfort foods, but you can certainly take that and put your spin on it,” Medina says. “I put out three specials every week, and every week, I hear, ‘We need that on the menu.’ Well, we can’t have a Cheesecake Factory, 300-item menu, so we cycle them in and out with the rest of the favorites.”

Medina finds plating inspiration in nature and her cultural background—her grandparents are from Mexico and Spain—as well as in femininity.

“We work in a tough industry. It’s not necessarily the most feminine place or even a place where it was acceptable, for a long time, to be feminine at all,” she says. “I channel that into my dishes.”

For Medina, this translates to a sense of whimsy in her

presentation, liberal use of color, and delicate placement of ingredients like lavender, chamomile and honey. She even started a honey program at the club, which now has five beehives, and she aspires to start a culinary garden in the next year or two.

Executive Chef Richard Lowack, CEC, CCA, WCEC, has cultivated herb gardens at every property he’s worked. Now, at Manasquan River Golf Club in Brielle, N.J., he’s collaborating with Greens Superintendent Matt Morrow and General Manager Ryan Brennan to bring his next vision to life.

Richard Lowack, Executive Chef of Manasquan River GC, finds plating inspiration from fellow club culinarians. He often shares his own creations on LinkedIn, such as his terrine of winter beets with goat cheese mousse, watermelon radish and microgreens.

Once it’s complete, Manasquan River GC’s garden will feature 50-100 different varietals of herbs for the culinary team to use.

“We’ll be growing a lot of our own [garnishes],” Lowack says. “There’s nothing better than that.”

For plating, Lowack finds inspiration in dining out, reading, and staying up to date on what other club culinarians are doing. He touts the industry’s collaborative spirit—and leans on it often.

“For club chefs, there’s a great network,” he says. “Everyone’s willing to share ideas.”

By design, Manasquan River GC’s kitchen mirrors that positive, collaborative spirit. Lowack encourages his team to pitch ideas and try new styles of cuisine and plating.

“Positivity in the kitchen makes creativity flow,” Lowack says. “In a positive environment, you empower people to put their best foot forward and work together to put the best possible plate out.”

TAKE ONE THING OFF

Medina, too, finds inspiration through club culinary peers and mentors. She worked at Kansas City Country Club prior to Indian Hills CC. She’s also been an apprentice at Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo, Fla.

“While the internet is an incredibly powerful tool [for inspiration],” Medina notes, “the chefs I have worked next to have all been beautiful artists as well—and a lot more accessible to me. … No matter where [an] idea stems from, I always ask myself what the absolute best way would be to make it and follow through. I make sure each component is intentional and serves a purpose.”

In terms of microgreens, Medina recognizes several schools of thought.

“I understand a lot of chefs think it’s an easy way out. At the same time, there are applications where fresh greens do add to the dish,” she says. “Our microgreens are local, so I’m also supporting a small business—and I create our own garnishes and flair where necessary.”

The bottom line: Balance and technique are key. Sometimes it requires thinking outside the box.

“If I’m missing a crunch, I’ll make something dried or dehydrated. If I’m missing some brightness, maybe I’ll add some French sorrel or a dehydrated or charred lemon wedge,” she says. “Every single ingredient can be manipulated 10 to 20 ways. I think people get stuck in what they’ve seen and what they’ve known and forget to experiment and have fun.”

Still, she says, when you start with the highest-quality ingredients, it’s important to let them shine.

Reynolds Lake’s Bellout leans on trusted suppliers, as well as a few hyperlocal items, to ensure he offers the best product. Following this fundamental step, he avoids overcomplicating a dish with highly manipulated ingredients or excess garnish.

“It’s almost like a woman getting dressed up and putting on accessories,” Bellout says, paraphrasing a famous Coco Chanel quote: “When you think you’re done, take one thing off.” C+RC

Creating the Perfect Wine Service

This guide details the essentials of professional wine service, focusing on preparation, presentation, and etiquette.

By Robert J Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET, Contributing Chef Editor

AS A CLUB CHEF, you shoulder a great deal of responsibility. If you’re short-staffed, and your sauté cook calls in sick, you will probably find yourself working the line. The first steps are to don a clean uniform, tidy your station, and organize. By the time service rolls around, everything is in its place, fresh and ready—a state known in culinary terms as mise en place, which translates to a constant state of efficient readiness.

Similarly, as a service team member, setting up your station and preparing to welcome members and guests for a

dining experience involves a meticulous setup akin to the chef’s preparation of his or her mise. This is crucial for a seamless transition into proper wine service.

The foundation of proper wine service begins with your uniform, appearance, and demeanor. You should be in a pressed uniform with manicured fingernails, wearing minimal perfume, and showcasing a sparkling personality. In your pocket, carry your preferred wine opener—a reliable two-step, an Ah-So, or a Durand for older corks.

With your preparation complete, it’s

time to set up your station. Ensure the wine list is current, clean, and free of misspellings. Each glass at the table should be steam-polished using an absorbent cotton or microfiber cloth. If under-liners are used, they must be clean and spotless to protect the table or tablecloth from stains. Ice buckets, stands, and decanters should also be cleaned, polished, and ready for use. When delivering wine glasses to the table, carry them on a tray lined with a cloth napkin or serviette. Always present glassware to the right in an organized manner, starting with

the host and proceeding clockwise, regardless of gender.

After the member-host reviews the wine list and selects a bottle, confirm their choice by repeating it. Then, ensure the wine is at the correct temperature and verify the vintage before serving. Present the bottle to the guest’s right, confirm the wine’s name and vintage, and wait for their nod before opening the bottle. Always face the label forward while you cut the foil at the second lip, place the foil in your pocket, and carefully remove the cork with minimal movement of the bottle.

Place the cork on the pre-set underliner for the guest’s inspection. Pour a one-ounce sample into the host’s glass for approval. After receiving approval, serve the guest to the host’s left, starting with women, then men, and finally the host. In larger groups, it’s permissible to disregard gender order. Wipe the bottle’s lip after each pour to prevent drips. When pouring, especially sparkling wine or champagne, hold the bottle from the bottom, not the punt.

The process differs slightly for sparkling wines. Do not cut the foil; instead, remove it and place it in your pocket. Cover the cage with your serviette, pressing your thumb on the cork top. Remove the wire cage while keeping the bottle away from guests and at a 45-degree angle. Gently twist the bottle, not the cork, releasing it quietly until the initial release of CO2. Serve as you would still wine, ensuring the label faces the guest.

Executing a flawless wine service is a joyful experience and a vital part of seamless service. Your attention to detail, wine knowledge, and professional demeanor will leave a lasting impression on your members and their guests. C+RC

2nd

2nd

Annual member event themes let chefs build on winning formulas for fabulous food.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

Helpings

REPEAT CLUB OUTINGS are the bread and butter of busy event departments, and while chefs might already have a set menu in place, it’s an opportunity for them to change things up. Here’s how three culinary masters continue to wow members with their variations on a theme.

DOWN UNDER DINING

It takes a lot to outdo the previous success of an annual member event, but the team at The Landings Golf & Athletic Club in Savannah, Ga., is determined to deliver on its promise of greatness. Last New Year’s Eve, the club held the Myriad Ball—named for its tremendous variety of culinary and entertainment options—with more than 1,000 members visiting 11 themed rooms. “Pre-planning is our biggest asset in pulling of an event of this scale,” says Justin Brown, Manager of Member Expectations. “We have done it for six years now and really feel that we have created a great blueprint to execute smoothly.”

Staging such a grand-scale event isn’t daunting either for Executive Chef Sam Brod, CEC, who designed a special menu for the ball’s Aussie Outback-themed experience, draw-

ing upon his first culinary experience in the hotel industry. “This is where I learned how to technically execute large parties of all varieties, including plated dinners, station-style dinners and, frankly, anything in between for a multitude of functions,” he says. After moving into the private club sector, Brod was schooled on the planning side of banquet functions, which has proven useful when overseeing multiple weekly events at TLGAC.

The Landings Golf & Athletic Club’s last New Year’s Eve ball had an Aussie Outback theme, with special menu by Executive Chef Sam Brod.

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In fact, it was during the planning of the 2023 Myriad Ball when the Aussie concept materialized. One of the club’s executive chefs had suggested kangaroo skewers as a passed hors d’oeuvre for an Australian-themed wine dinner, which prompted Brod to feature the dish more prominently. “It was very well-received, so when Kevin [Walters, Director of Club Operations] and Justin agreed to try the Aussie Outback, I knew I had access to sustainably farm-raised kangaroo and other unique proteins such as alligator that would really fit well with the theme,” says Brod. In addition to this passed appetizer (served by a costumed Barbie), the menu included crocodile sausage bites—presented by a Crocodile Dundee-dressed server—BBQ wild boar, a flowering bloomin’ onion and Foster’s beer. Offering Southerners a taste of the other side of the world proved to be another win for TLGAC. “The theme was such a hit, we had several hundred members who congregated outside for much of the event,” noted Brod,

El Niguel CC’s 2024 Chinese New Year celebration sold out within days of its announcement. The menu featured duck, fried catfish, beef and broccoli, orange chicken, egg rolls, carved pork loin, shrimp stir-fry, dim sum and more.

who relied upon a rented, refrigerated 18-wheeler to keep ingredients fresh and organized. “The food and entertainment are abundant, and annually, we create an epic value and party like no other club,” adds Brown.

TRADITION AND TOGETHERNESS

At El Niguel Country Club in Laguna Niguel, Calif., it was members’ good fortune when they were once again treated to a Chinese New Year celebration. Turnout from the 2023 event was so strong, that this past February’s event sold out within days of its announcement. While a colorful setup, costumed dancers and traditional lion dance helped to set the scene, it was arguably the authentic Chinese cuisine that stole the show.

“We strive to be diverse and open to all,” says Executive Chef Bruno Massuger of the club’s decision to recraft the special 2024 dinner marking the Year of the Dragon. To ensure that the meal was both flavorful and adhering to Chinese culture, Massuger and

club member Austin Yang dined at a local Chinese restaurant and sampled various dishes in advance of the club event. Their selections inspired a comprehensive menu, featuring duck, fried catfish, orange chicken, beef and broccoli, stir-fried rice, egg rolls, carved pork loin, shrimp stir-fry and, for dessert, green tea ice cream.

The club wanted to build on the success of last year’s program with some new extras. The dim sum station was expanded to include traditional dumplings, Xia Long Bao (steamed buns) and Har Gow (shrimp dumplings). A separate Kids’ Club Chinese New Year allowed the club’s youngest members to join in on the fun, with a themed craft, movie and dinner of orange chicken and rice.

Improvements were also made to the main menu by upgrading the original beef and broccoli recipe with beef filet and by portion-controlling the fried catfish. “Last year, we learned that whole fish in a station did not present well once it was cut into,” notes Massuger. Serving steamed rice

Twice a year, The Club at Admirals Cove hosts ‘A Night in the Kitchen,’ where guests are invited into the main banquet kitchen, which was recently transformed for its ‘Traveling Through the Vineyards’ and ‘Pop Art’ offerings.

in mini take-out food containers added a playful vibe to the buffet table.

Once again, ENCC’s Chinese New Year celebration was one for the books. The culinary team served 133 members and their guests, who enjoyed traditional music and food on a festive evening.

“Chinese New Year at El Niguel Country Club is not just an event; it’s a vibrant tapestry of tradition and togetherness,” says Lori LeBard, CCM, Assistant General Manager. “As we step into the Year of the Dragon, we embrace the strength, fortune and wisdom it symbolizes. Our members gather in a celebration that transcends cultures, sharing a spirit of community that burns as brightly as the dragon’s mythical flame.”

PULLING BACK THE CURTAIN

Finding out what goes on inside the kitchen is something that members rarely experience, but for those at The Club at Admirals Cove in Jupiter, Fla., getting to see where the meal magic happens has become a semi-annual occasion. Twice a year, the club hosts ‘A Night in the Kitchen,’ where guests

are invited into the main banquet kitchen, which was recently transformed for its ‘Traveling Through the Vineyards’ and ‘Pop Art’ offerings.

Heading up the culinary end of things is Executive Chef Thomas Connell who, like Chef Brod, tapped into his hotel restaurant background. A 12-year-stint at Fontainebleau Miami Beach, at which Connell oversaw catering and conferences in the resort’s 150,000 square feet of event space, prepared him well for managing large-format set-ups. “Our goal was to peel back the curtain on the culinary wizardry happening behind the scenes, providing our members with a unique glimpse into the heart of our house and the dedicated professionals who craft their dining experiences,” says Connell.

The January 2023 pop art event showcased select dishes from ten club chefs, each manning his own station. Colorful signage in vivid brights announced the culinary face behind each

dish, including Connell and his lobster escabeche, Chef Marco Lombardi and his duck pastrami spring wraps and Chef Steve Goldson and his Caribbean snapper. For the vineyards event held last August, each dish on the menu was paired with a choice of wine from different regions. Among the six featured selections were prime aged New York strip, truffle cheese fondue and wedge salad with a Napa Valley cabernet; chicken moruno skewers and vegetarian fideua with a Spanish vintage; and duck a l’orange, coquilles St. Jacques and summer vegetable barigoule with a French wine.

During each event, members first entered through the ballroom— decorated to match the respective themes—and then into the kitchen, visiting chefs at their respective stations. Select equipment was relocated and workspaces were reconfigured in order to accommodate these guests, but their efforts paid off. With upwards of 200 guests in attendance at each event, the Night in the Kitchen series was another resounding success.

“Our aim is to continually elevate the member experience by introducing new concepts and experiences they haven’t encountered before, while simultaneously refining our internal processes for efficiency,” says Connell. “This dual focus allows us to not only impress our members, but also ensures our team can execute these grand visions with precision and enjoyment, further enriching the Admirals Cove culinary experience.” C+RC

The Casual Dining Revolution Continues

At the Country Club of Maryland, Executive Chef

John Koursaros is crafting more casual dining experiences in response to member preferences, with support from the new GM/COO Kate Reinhart.

By Joanna DeChellis, Editor-in-Chief

LEADING THE CHARGE at the Country Club of Maryland (Baltimore, Md.), newly appointed GM/COO Kate Reinhart is guiding the club toward a revolution in casual dining driven by the evolving tastes of its members.

Reinhart’s deep food and beverage management expertise was honed during her seven years as the club’s Catering Director, providing her with a unique perspective on operations and member engagement. She also partnered with Executive Chef John Koursaros during her time in this role. This relationship has benefited her in her current role as the two collaboratively refine the dining experience.

Reinhart’s journey also includes a pivotal two-year stint as Director of Food and Beverage at Baltimore Country Club, where she expanded her managerial skills and culinary vision. This experience was key in preparing her for her current role, to which she returned nearly eight months ago, drawn by her strong con-

nection to the club and its community. Koursaros and Reinhart are focused on introducing more relaxed and appealing culinary offerings, aligning with the casual dining trends that members increasingly prefer.

Club + Resort Chef (C+RC): Can you share a bit about your career and how long you’ve been at this club?

Kate Reinhart (KR): I’ve had a bit of a back-and-forth journey with the Country Club of Maryland. I started in private clubs in 2014 at this club, where I served as the catering director for seven years. In 2021, I left for a director of food and beverage opportunity at Baltimore Country Club and spent two years there. The General Manager position at the Country Club of Maryland opened up last summer. I applied, and here I am, about eight months in.

C+RC: How has your previous experience helped you in your current role?

KR: My history with the club and its membership certainly played a significant role in securing the General Manager position. My familiarity with the club’s operations, staff, and membership dynamics has proven valuable.

C+RC: Transitioning from Catering Director to General Manager, how have you found the shift in responsibilities?

KR: The transition has been significant and rapid, a real whirlwind. Previously, my focus was almost exclusively on food and beverage, but now it encompasses every aspect of the club’s operations. It’s been a steep learning curve, but I’ve enjoyed the challenge and the opportunity to engage more broadly with the club’s activities and members.

C+RC: Tell us about Executive Chef John Koursaros.

KR: Chef Koursaros has been with the club for 29 years and stepped into his current role three years ago. We’ve had

Kate Reinhart, GM/COO of the Country Club of Maryland (right), strengthened her F&B management skills over seven years as Catering Director, collaborating with Executive Chef John Koursaros (above, left) to improve dining experiences.

a longstanding professional relationship and friendship characterized by mutual respect and healthy conflict, which allows us to tackle challenges and grow together.

C+RC: How do you and the Koursaros support each other in your respective roles?

KR: Our relationship is built on open, honest communication, including constructively navigating conflicts. A significant part of our interaction involves educational discussions about budgeting, cost management, and improving member experiences. We’re focused on providing great value and experiences for our members, balancing the needs of the club with financial sustainability.

C+RC: Can you describe the food and beverage operation at the Country Club of Maryland?

KR: Our club primarily operates one dining outlet, with a freshly renovated

back bar that’s become a focal point for members. We host a range of events, from casual dining to weddings, though the capacity for large events is limited because we don’t have a dedicated banquet space. Our food offerings are straightforward, reflecting the relaxed nature of our membership. We’re working on increasing consistency and introducing more variety.

C+RC: What are your goals for the club’s food and beverage services?

KR: We aim to enhance our menu offerings, increase event bookings, and expand operations to improve member experiences. Initiatives like extending dining hours and introducing a refreshment stand on the golf course are part of our strategy to make the club more appealing and accessible to members.

C+RC: How does your background in food and beverage provide a unique

perspective in your role as GM?

KR: My experience and history with the club give me a competitive edge, especially in understanding and communicating with the kitchen staff and members about food and beverage services. My passion for learning and education also helps bring fresh ideas and improvements to the club.

C+RC: How do you think club dining will continue to evolve at your club and in the industry?

KR: The trend at our club—and I think in the industry—is moving toward more casual dining experiences. Members are looking for fun and engaging environments, and there’s a decreasing interest in formal dining spaces. We’re focused on adapting to these changes, ensuring we meet our members’ desires for casual, enjoyable dining experiences that encourage frequent visits. C+RC

The Culture of Club Culinary: Strategies for Finding and Keeping Staff

Among other tactics, club chefs, GMs and hiring managers describe finding success in team members who fit the club’s culture, rather than those who start with specific skills.

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

AS DANIEL ISLAND CLUB’S DIRECTOR OF CULINARY OPERATIONS and Executive Chef for 24 years, Tyler Dudley, CEC, CCA, knows what he’s looking for in culinary team members.

But as a large club with 1,400 families, staffing is a full-time job. When the pandemic compounded this struggle, the Charleston, S.C., club hired Talent Acquisition Specialist Stacy Kelly, a decision Dudley says he continues to benefit from immensely.

“It’s a lot of work to ask chefs or front-of-the-house management to recruit, hire, fire, interview, tour. … I think hiring specialists or recruitment managers is something every club should invest in, especially the larger ones,” Dudley says. “If I put a position in LinkedIn, or any other social outlet, I might get 100 resumes. To be able to send it out to [Kelly] to vet is a huge help. It gives me more time to do all the other things I should be focusing on.”

Tyler Dudley has been the Director of Culinary Operations and Executive Chef of Daniel Island Club for 24 years. In this time, he’s honed what he looks for in his culinary team members and makes a point to interview candidates personally.

Alfredo Hildebrant, General Manager of Lakewood CC, believes culture is key to club culinary success, which includes building trust with his team and connecting on a personal level.

Since she came aboard, Dudley’s built a good relationship with Kelly and communicates often and openly about his staffing needs, a factor Kelly says is key to success in her role.

In vetting candidates, Kelly says she first looks for effort and detail on the application itself.

“Our application’s pretty lengthy, so if somebody takes the time to actually fill out that application and give personal details, I always enjoy a conversation with them,” she says. “I’ll ask, ‘What made you sit down and type all of this out, and why Daniel Island Club?’ If I can hear the passion in their voice, that’s the person I like to bring forth to Chef [Dudley]—somebody who cares. And you can absolutely feel that through a phone call.”

Daniel Island Club has found success hosting recruiting events several times per year, visiting local schools, including technical schools, and implementing a few in-house initiatives, such as its ‘Birds of Feather’ program, which rewards team members who successfully recruit someone else to join the team.

“If we find someone who works well in the club, it makes sense to ask if they know anyone else who would do well in this type of environment,” Kelly says. “Last year, each person got $500 after 90 days, but sometimes people were leaving after those 90 days. So now just the person who refers the candidate receives $500; they get $200 after 90 days and $300 after six months. But we did expand that to part-time and seasonal (with lesser amounts).”

Despite his busy schedule, Dudley still prioritizes interviewing every culinary candidate, at every level; during these interviews, he considers a few factors before deciding who to hire.

“Of course, you hire a skill set, depending on what they’re applying for. But first and foremost for me is attitude,” he says. “How do they carry themselves? I don’t hire egos. We hire people we think are going to meld with every single team member that we have here.”

UNTAPPED POTENTIAL

When Alfredo Hildebrandt joined Lakewood Country Club (Westlake, Ohio) as the General Manager at the start of the year, it was a bit of a homecoming.

Hildebrandt had worked at Lakewood CC from 2014 through 2019 as Food & Beverage Manager and then Clubhouse Manager. He then followed General Manager Chris Hampton to Sycamore Hills Golf Club in Fort Wayne, Ind., to serve as Assistant General Manager, where he remained through 2023.

“It has been amazing to be back at the place where I started my career,” Hildebrandt says. “There are so many exciting things happening here. We have a strong commitment for the next couple years on capital improvements. … And, of course, [Executive Chef Geoffrey Sowl] being on [C+RC’s] 40 under 40 list has been great for us. We’re crushing our numbers on a la carte, and Chef is providing an awesome culinary experience.”

Lakewood CC has about 375 families, and the membership skews younger, Hildebrandt notes. Its annual food-andbeverage revenue is $2.1M, with a goal to hit $2.5M within the next year.

Before Hildebrandt rejoined the team, culinary was a bit short-staffed, but he’s since hired several team members, including a director of special events and a food-and-beverage assistant, both of whom he found through his own connections.

“I never post an ad for any of my managers,” Hildebrant notes. “Even [when I was] in Fort Wayne, being a small city, we always had top talent. … We bring them in, we teach them, and we treat them well. Sometimes you have to teach people to become rock stars. Some people don’t have the patience or the time to do that. But there’s so much untapped potential in people.”

Staffing, Hildebrandt says, is all about culture, especially in club culinary.

“It sounds cliche,” he says, “but culture is so important— creating a great culture and keeping it fun—food and beverage is supposed to be fun!”

For Lakewood CC, this means an environment where all culinary staff are encouraged to be creative, where the opportunities for learning and growth are abundant.

In seeking new talent, Hildebrant says he searches for what he calls a “world-class person,” and in F&B in particular, he looks for a certain energy and passion for the industry.

“You can feel somebody’s passion in the first four minutes of an interview—and passion is a driver for culinary excellence,” he says. “You can teach almost anybody how to do financials, how to cook, but a person who is going to work hard for you and the club, who’s going to be respectful and treat everybody well, is tougher to find.”

Once he finds these people, Hildebrandt says, the next step is building trust, then continuing to set a positive example for the team each day.

“You have to connect as a person before you can connect as a leader,” he says. “I’m a big believer that good people attract good people, and great people make great places.”

OPPORTUNITY IN CLUBS

When The Stanwich Club’s former Chef de Cuisine decided to move on, Executive Chef Corey Chow knew he needed to be strategic in filling the role.

Most of Chow’s experience stems from fine dining restaurants. Clubs, of course, are a different beast. Plus, The Stanwich Club is based in Greenwich, Conn., a place chefs seldom land by accident.

“In New York City, there are always tons of people, let alone when you’re at a Michelin-starred restaurant,” Chow says. “Greenwich is a high-income city where a normal ‘Joe’ can’t really live. So where am I going to find people?”

In his fourth season at The Stanwich Club, Executive Chef Corey Chow is bringing on a new Chef de Cuisine as well as J-1 interns for the first time. No matter the role, Chow believes attitude and humility are paramount to culinary success.

Chow does much of his own recruiting, regularly visiting area culinary schools. For the chef de cuisine position, however, he relied on his industry connections, asking around for chefs who might be interested in taking a break from New York City or restaurant life.

“I was trying to find the right person who would fit the mold, who understands the country club model and understands fine dining,” Chow says. “Our a la carte is very highend; our members [expect] a unique experience.”

After an extensive search, Chow found this in Esther Ha, and he hired her as Chef de Cuisine. Ha previously served as Executive Chef at Momofuku Ko in New York City, and most recently, as Executive Chef of Cabot Citrus Farms, a golf club in Brooksville, Fla.

New this year, too, The Stanwich Club is hiring J-1 culinary interns, which Chow expects to be a massive help with operations. Chow notes he’s excited to work with J-1s for the first time, given their eagerness for experiencing the U.S. and learning from the club’s culinary team.

No matter the role, Chow says, that’s the most important factor in hiring new staff: attitude.

“It doesn’t matter where you’ve worked,” he says. “It’s your attitude and your humility—constantly learning and pushing yourself. You don’t have to know anything, but if you have the correct attitude, I can teach you everything.”

For younger, eager culinarians in particular, Chow believes the club environment provides a valuable opportunity to work in a variety of venues, from the snack bar to fine dining a la carte to large-scale events.

“I never really thought about that for myself,” Chow notes, reflecting on his own culinrary experience. “I’d always been in restaurants. But to see all the different outlets and to get that exposure—you can’t find that at a restaurant.”

While Chow recognizes the challenge of working with new staff, particularly inexperienced culinarians, he believes that’s part of what it means to be a chef and a leader. To go back to basics with new staff, to continue to explain the ‘why’ of fundamental procedures, requires a certain level of patience that Chow says he honed through his degree in psychology and subsequent work experience.

“Sure, we cook, we create menus. But that’s kind of easy for us, if you’ve done it for a while,” he says. “The teaching and the mentoring of the next generation is what we signed up to do. And that’s how we got to where we are—because someone mentored us.” C+RC

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