Elysium Summer 2023

E L Y S I U M

Milan & Paris Fashion Weeks S/S 2023

The Magic of Monte Carlo

Untitled: Calgarians & Cocktails

S U M M E R

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ELYSIUM Concept by Jesse Scott in conjunction with Elysium Cocktail Club All words, photographs, and designs

by Jesse Scott unless otherwise specified

Diana Huk GUEST CONTRIBUTOR Isobel Griffiths GUEST CONTRIBUTOR Nele Edith COVER MODEL Ana Krug COVER PHOTOGRAPHER Anna Seriozhenkova PHOTOGRAPHY

"True sophistication is the ability to fit in anywhere because you have a broad understanding of and respect for all kinds of people."

-Paris Hilton

Letter from the Editor

I

ndividuality & freedom have been on my mind a lot lately. Maybe it's the Monaco summer breeze. More likely, it's my generation's

visionaries -- inspired entrepreneurs, designers, writers, and artists who refuse to be confined by societal expectations and dare to forge life paths as varied, unique, and international as their dreams. The past few years have seen fundamental and irrevocable change in business and social structures: changes that have torn down artificial borders while expanding global connectivity and opening up possibilities only limited by our determination and imagination.

I was deeply moved by an impassioned hour-long conversation involving designer Bebe Moratti at this past season's Redemption presentation. In a discourse that involved a revolving cast of guests and touched on everything from sexuality to Parisian society, Moratti eloquently explained how, in the wake of Covid, he had jumped off society's "hamster wheel" and on to his own winding life path. He has achieved complete freedom as a designer, dedicating time to his passion for surfing & creating clothes from whatever inspires him wherever he is.

Shortly after, Paris Hilton released an autobiography, revealing how she overcame great personal adversity to launch a business empire and invent the modern influencer. "Don't waste time living a life someone else designed for you," Paris quipped. "Life is one per customer."

This philosophy can be taken literally; 2023 Paris wouldn't exist had she not rejected the cookie cutter future her parents ordained. Yet it is also a metaphor; in a world of immense pressure to "fit in," too few have the courage to step away from the rat race and live a bespoke life based on their own dreams and values rather than society's ready-to-wear template.

This issue celebrates those who have dared to dream--and be themselves. In the photo shoot Untitled, we've envisioned Calgary mavericks with their cocktails of choice; the cocktails we drink, like the clothes we wear, can be a powerful medium of self-expression. In The Magic of Monte Carlo, we consider one of the world's most inspirational and international destinations; here, ambitious people of all ages, countries, and careers gather each summer to pursue their own ideal of the beautiful life. Finally, in our interview feature, we sit down with modern-day Renaissance woman Isobel Griffiths to hear her story of completing a law degree while traveling the world as a purser for luxury yachts.

Fittingly, Spring/Summer 2023 fashion is a celebration of the bold and beautiful. Elysium is proud to bring you a complete guide to this season's Milan and Paris fashion weeks; within these pages you'll find dazzling new designs from Alexandre Vauthier, Balestra, Krizia, Nanushka, Giuseppe Zanotti, and many more. I hope you enjoy. And I leave you with a final piece of advice; create your own destiny.

Photo Credit: Basil Montemitro

TABLE OF CONTENTS FASHION WEEK GUIDE S/S 2023 Krizia...........................................27 Alexandre Vauthier.................33 Nanushka....................................35 Meryl Rogge...............................39 Blaze.............................................41 Shoe Spotlight...........................43

5 THE HOT LIST 13 UNTITLED: CALGARIANS & THEIR COCKTAILS 25 DREAMING WITH DIANA 26 MILAN & PARIS FASHION WEEKS S/S 2023

Amato Daniele...........................49 Aspesi...........................................50

57 INTERVIEW: ISOBEL GRIFFITHS

Balestra........................................51 Rodo..............................................53 ArtNoble......................................55

59 THE MAGIC OF MONTE CARLO

from novels to cocktails, the places and creations that captured our imagination this season

Bar Deja Vu, Canmore, Canada: Sophisticated speakeasies might not be the first images that ski-crazy Canmore conjures to mind...but the most creative cocktails in the Canadian Rockies make this seductive space an après automatic. Hidden behind Four Two Nine Six, where Chef Blake Flann designs such unforgettable dishes as a chili apricot burrata, it offers discreet table service and a distinctly European ambience soundtracked by the likes of Parov Stelar. The bartenders nre relentlessly innovative; thus you'll see such ingredients as cantaloupe and bubble gum-infused vodkas, thai green chili bitters, plum balsamic, and tobacco vapor. The strongest drinks achieve balance through contrasts, as rye and scotch are paired with refreshing flavors such as lemon and ginger or the sultry sweetness of cherry and creme de cocoa. One of the only bars other than the iconic Hemingway that includes olive ice cubes in their martinis...

The Order: White Rose: Laphroiag quarter cask scotch, dry curaçao, rosemary, white truffle, kabosu “whites” Marlene, Chisinau, Moldova: Chisinau nightlife remains dominated by exceptional wines, fatally chic contemporary restaurants, and clubby hotel bars. Thus Marlene, marketed as the "first high-end cocktail bar in Chisinau," occupies a uinque niche in the Moldovan capital. A refined space for "serious mixology," reminsicent of spots like Embargo in Minsk and Beatnik in Kyiv, Marlene does all the classics well and carefully curates a menu of originals. The list changes seasonally and this fall's offerings were particularly strong: think the "November," with scotch, chestnut liqueur, and pumpkin puree, or the "House of Carrot," with Cutty Sark scotch, amaro, carrot and lemon juice, and coconut milk.

The Order: Blood on the Tracks: Cutty Sark scotch, Ardberg 10 Islay whiskey, beetroot puree, black currant jam, lemon juice

The Hot List COCKTAIL BARS

La Ferme Saint-Amour, Courchevel, France: It's best known as a club but the icon/enigma that is La Ferme Saint Amour could stand alone as a cocktail bar or restaurant as well. With a food menu designed by three-Michelin-starred Eric Frechon (Epicure at Le Bristol, Paris) and a cocktail card that specializes in bringing contemporary flavors to timeless classics, an 20h00 aperitivo and dinner here can be just as enjoyable as dancing on the tables. Ladies should opt for the Bushido, which adds chocolate to a refreshing gin cranberry cocktail, while Manhattan lovers should choose the spicy Casamigos version featuring blood orange bitters. La Ferme Saint-Amour was *the* place to be in Courch this season.

And the cocktails live up to every bit of the hype.

The Order: Tropical Negroni: Coconut gin, la quintinye red vermouth, Campari, pineapple OR Spiritacchio: Prosecco, Ramazzatti rosato vermouth, raspberries, pistachio syrup, Perrier Silla Bar at the Four Seasons, Milano, Italy: Stilla Bar was the living room of Milanese society this Christmas season; the Four Seasons spared no effort in turning the expansive lobby space into a Courmayeur-esque winter wonderland. Penguins were suspended from the ceiling, a secluded side room had all the romance of a luxurious ski lodge, and the seasonal menu contained hot wine and cocoa specialties. Herbaceous spritzes have been the trend in Italy all year and the Four Seasons brought holiday flavors (think cranberry and juniper) to the refreshing aperitivo.

The Order: Chestnut Fashioned: bourbon, chestnut, orange bitters, anise

Camparino in Galleria, Milano, Italy: A sanctuary from the chaos of the Duomo and the Vittorio Emmanuele Galleria, 107-year-old Camparino possesses a glamorous Italian nostalgia. Perfect for a quick aperitivo at the lively bar or a leisurely drink and people-watching session, it specializes in, unsurprisingly, the spritz.

The Order: Seltz on the Sea: Campari, 1757 Vermouth di Torino Extra Dry al lampone, orange cordial, seltz, mint essence Camparino in Galleria

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Bar Deja Vu

Chatuea Purcari

Berd's Design Hotel

HOTELS & RESORTS

The Goring Hotel, London, England:

Chateau Purcari, Purcari, Moldova:

Traditional and British in all the best ways, the Goring Hotel, nestled in beautiful Belgravia just steps away from Buckingham Palace, is one of London's most discreet destinations. Eschewing ostentatious glamor and slick contemporary style for comfortable old-world opulence, it has been in the Goring family since 1910 and remains the only five-star hotel in London still owned and operated by the family that built it. A grand property with an intimate ambience, it has only 69 rooms and at times feels boutique.

It's a favorite of the royal family (Kate Middleton stayed here the night before her wedding) and has indeed been granted a royal warrant for its provision of "goods and hospitality services" to the monarchy. Dinner here is a true treat. The creamy Eggs Drumkibo, with lobster, caviar, and tomatoes, has been on the menu for thirty years (and was a standby for Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother). It's best followed up by the lobster omelette, the name an understatement for the several preparations of lobster (presented with a banquet-style flourish) that it entails. The The Goring, London, England melt-in-your-mouth brandy-flavored omelette is accompanied by a lettuce wedge, succulent lobster tail, and truffled new potatoes.

Founded in 1827, Chateau Purcari is the oldest vineyard in wine-rich Moldova. Its epic history includes a gold medal at the 1878 Paris Exhibition and a boom period during Soviet times, when centuries-old Moldovan production techniques were revitalized. Today, Purcari, along with such labels as Milesti Mici and Cricova, continues to produce some of Moldova's most prestigious and popular wines. Winemaking is a near-religious experience here, as much art and poetry as industry, and a stay at the gorgeous chateau, nestled near the Black Sea just kilometers away from the Ukrainian border, is both a relaxing retreat and an opportunity to immerse yourself in Moldovan culture. Barrique rooms, modeled to resemble a wine barrel, feel both rustic and luxurious.

Meanwhile, the restaurant effectively pivots between French and Moldovan dining and the property, particularly picturesque in fall, offers a wide array of hiking, boating, and fishing opportunities for those trying to get away from it all.

Berd's Design Hotel, Chisinau, Moldova: An independently-owned property that has become the de facto spot to stay in the Moldovan capital, Berd's Design Hotel encapsulates the stylish heart of contemporary Chisinau life. The modern rooms, furnished by storied Torino designer Poltrona Frau, feel both chic and homey (and many contain fireplaces and/or steam rooms). The restaurant and bar, which carry on the Italian theme, serve as a social center for the young and beautiful...and locals and visitors alike. For me, the property's strongest point is the spa, which offers the most luxurious banya experience in a city that has many. One can spend a number of hours going between the infrared sauna, steam room, himalyan salt room, and Kniepp therapy pools (alternating hot and cold basins designed to increase circulation in the legs in a similar manner to jumping from sauna to snow bath). Several of the spa treatments and detoxes emphasize Moldovan ingredients and tradition; try the hot orange ritual.

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The Goring

from final summer moments in Monaco to freezing December days by the fire, this soundtrack changed with the temperatures September: In Your Eyes, AWEN, Liva K., Jordy A distinctly French deep house vibe, In Your Eyes is the perfect song to start raising the energy at a restaurant/club as diners finish their food and consider dancing on tables. It soundtracked the final couple of days of my Paris Fashion Week and should be a standby on "pre-game" playlists for years to come. .

October: Anti-Hero, Taylor Swift: It's Taylor Swift's world; we're just living in it. Anti-Hero is not the best song from Taylor's record-smashing tenth album Midnights (hello first album to simultaneously claim all ten slots on the Billboard Top 100) but it was the one we blasted on repeat immediately following the big release. "Midnights become my afternoons" is one of Taylor's all-time evocative lyrics.

November: Sheikh, Morgenshtern: Russian superstar Morgenshtern pulled a "Taylor Swift" himself this fall, deleting all his videos from YouTube, blacking out his Instagram, and posting a cryptic series of messages advertising a new project "Last One." This culminated in a much-anticipated October 21 album drop (ironically, the exact same day Taylor dropped Midnights). The album offers a more raw look at Morgenshtern's life than we've seen before...but it was swaggering Dubai-inspired anthem Sheikh that was our most-played this fall.

December: Men on the Moon, Chelsea Cutler: Melancholic without being melodramatic, Chelsea's standalone single Men on the Moon, which allows her vocals to truly shine, is a thought-provoking and mature reflection on emotional disconnect between two people who deeply care about each other. A perfect fireside song.

THE PLAYLIST

January: C'est Beau la Bourgeoisie, Discobitch: From Folie Douce to Mangeoire Ski Club, you'd be hard-pressed to find a après-ski party in Courch this winter where this song was not blasted at least once. It hits just as hard before skiing; play it while catching the first lift and you''ll be revitalized for the day (even if you slept only two hours the night before)!

Deep House Pick: Don't Call, Guy Gerber, Desire: The perfect song for a mountain sunset, this classic Guy Gerber synth is a rhythm to lose yourself in.

Pop Pick: Summer Fling, Nina Nesbitt, GBX, Sparkos: This song *is* whipping down the Malibu or Riviera coast with the top down and a world of possibilities ahead.

Addictive stuff.

Russian Pick: Убью тебя, HANNA, Misha Marvin: Wife of Black Star CEO Pavel Kuryanov, HANNA is part of a musical dynasty, and has a melodic voice to match the most famous pop star. This song, feat. frequent collaborator Misha Marvin, will probably be on your head for weeks.

New Artist Discovery: Fllad, Kanita, Iulian Florea: A 21year-old Albanian singer who grew up in Skopje, Kanita Sumo has had a musical career since 2012 but is only just gaining recognition across the Balkans. Iluian Florea has remixed several of her songs into perfect beach club/après ski synths; this is my favorite at the moment.

Midnights Pick (Lyrics): Mastermind, Taylor Swift: Complex Mastermind seems a fitting metaphor for Taylor's creative genius while turning the theme of most of her love songs (particularly her early work) on its head. Perhaps her most nuanced, and realistic, look at romance yet.

Midnights Pick (Melody): Snow on the Beach, Taylor Swift, Lana Del Rey: A long-awaited collaboration between two of our favorite artists, Snow on the Beach combines the heartbreaking angst of Lana with the eternal hope of Taylor in a haunting melody that can fit many moods.

Midnights Pick (Deluxe): The Great War, Taylor Swift: A tribute to great loves surviving great obstacles, with haunting war imagery recalling the folklore/evermore era, this song might be one of Taylor's top ten all time. Paris is a close second if we're ranking only Midnights deluxe.

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THE READING LIST

Borders: A Journey to the Edge of Europe, Kapka Kassabova: Eloquently capturing the beauty and tragedy of life through both intimate anecdotes of modern individuals and sweeping histories transcending religion and nationality, Borders is a haunting portrait of Europe's forgotten border regions. The mountainous boundaries between Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey are far more than dividing lines between countries; they've been at the crossroads of empires, populations, and cultural exchange for centuries. More recently, during the Cold War, they operated as a hostile and unforgiving frontier between East and West, capitalism and communism, Christianity and Islam, and, most importantly, two seemingly incompatible visions for our global future. Kapka Kassabova, a Bulgarian writer who immigrated to New Zealand as a teen and today lives in Scotland, humanizes this vast drama...and in doing so illustrates that the "opposing forces" at their center were really not so incompatible after all. People on the "capital b" Border, as Kassabova refers to it with equal parts reverence and horror, can almost never be simply defined as "Bulgarian," "Turkic," or "Greek." Whatever nationalities they identify with, all have shared culture, shaped by a tumultuous history, unescapable geopolitical conflict, and enchanting if melancholic landscapes. It's a culture that Kassabova explored during several months living in the region; this book tells the tale of the isolated communities and resilient characters that define them, that she encountered along the way. At times, against a backdrop of economic depression, ethnic tension, and the sense of being frozen in time between past and future, the story seems hopeless. Paradoxically, it is also profoundly hopeful...for it illustrates the incredible capacity of the human spirit to persevere, thrive, and even achieve tremendous joy under such conditions.

Klondike's: Dawson City's Stanley Cup Challenge, Tim Falconer: In 1905, the Dawson City Nuggets, a scrappy hockey team from a far north gold rush town, made the daring decision to challenge the Ottawa Silver Seven, the reigning Stanley Cup champions and perhaps the first dynasty in hockey history, for the sport's greatest prize.

Traveling 6400 km. by dogsled, bicycle, steamer, and train, they arrived in Ottawa after a grueling 25-day journey where they promptly dropped the best-of-three series by a combined score of 32-4. The original "for the love of hockey" story, the Nuggets defied insurmountable odds to compete, a tale passionately recounted in humanizing fashion in this brand new book from a former Dawson City resident.

Chanel: The Making of a Collection, Laetitia Cenac: Benefitting from unprecedented behind-the-scenes access to the Chanel house, this lovingly designed volume is a rare and intimate portrait of the fashion industry...including the tireless work, countless people, and incredible creativity that are essential to both designing a new collection and producing a show. It's particularly special because it was written during the year immediately preceding Karl Lagerfeld's passing. Thus it offers an inside look both at his creative process at the grand conclusion of his career and at the people who brought his final fashion visions to life.

You'll meet individuals from Kim Young-Seong, who designed Karl's fabrics since immigrating to France from Korea and becoming an intern, to Arielle Duclos, who has worked on both sportswear and casting for the brand, to Maria Messner, who supervises Chanel's tweed production from the Lesage-owned ACT3 factory in Pau to, of course, studio director Virginie Viard. The forward is by Lagerfeld himself. This is a book to cherish...and keep in a permanent rotation on the coffee table.

The War Magician, David Fisher: Magic and modern warfare may seem an oxymoronic pair...which is what the British authorities repeatedly told magician and illuisonist Jasper Maskelyne when he tried to enlist prior to World War II. They finally relented and would not regret the decision; Maskelyne, deployed in Egypt, manufacutured multiple major coups...including creating a "dummy" army in the Sahara which won Britain the Battle of El Alamein. In an "Operation Mincemeat" era where WWII intelligence is trending, "The War Magician" is a gripping read.

Grizzly Heart: Living Without Fear Among the Brown Bears of Kamchatka, Charlie Russell: Alberta native Charlie Russell, son of a rancher who has worked as both a hunting guide and naturalist, defied the logic of the scientific community when he decided to travel to a remote region of Kamchatka in the late-1990's and live in the wild among the region's grizzly bears. Depending on his own small plane (which he piloted), and living in a makeshift cabin (which he built himself), Russell, with his partner, tirelessly fought both nature and politics for six years to illustrate that humans and bears could co-exist in peace.

Along the way, he raised three cubs, Chico, Biscuit, and Rosie, to survive on their own on the wild, pioneering a completely unprecedented approach that, if taken seriously, could revolutionize aspects of wildlife management and conservation. Written from the heart, Rsusell's autobiography should inspire compassion for bears and maybe make you question your own relations with the wild.

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ART & CULTURE

Richard Avedon: Relationships at Palazzo Reale, Milano, Italy: Rarely, with the possible exception of Yoshi Takata, has a photographer captured both high fashion and the raw emotion of ordinary humans as eloquently as Richard Avedon. New York born and raised, Avedon rose to fame as Chief Photographer of Harper's Bazaar in the 1940's.

It was with numerous Vogue covers and legendary advertising campaigns behind him that he turned his lens towards politicians, civil rights activists, and everyday citizens, pivoting a large part of his oeuvre to a very different genre as seamlessly as a supermodel might change her outfit during a runway show.

This sleek Avedon retrospective, which held a much-anticipated opening during Milan Fashion Week under the watchful eye of Donatella Versace, and remained on display for just eight days, captured the essence of the photographer through presenting a large cross-section of his work.

The well-designed exhibition, which saw a deluge of visitors yet preserved enough space for guests to flow between works and consider each carefully, featured iconic works such as the "Perugia shoe & Eiffel Tower," a joyful portrait of Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller, and a shot of a particularly vulnerablelooking Truman Capote. Avedon's profound understanding of the human spirit, and ability to draw out elusive sides of celebrities' personalities, resonated throughout all. Photos in the "Avedon & Newton" feature.

National Museum of Moldova, Chisinau, Moldova: Both a comprehensive overview of Moldovan history and more easily digestible than many state history museums, the National Museum of Moldova is a must for first-time visitors to country and, for me, a beloved spot to return to again and again. Each visit sees me focus on a new aspect of Moldova's cultural and historical fabric; particularly memorable from this fall was the "entertainment" section, which details Moldova's tremendous contributions to Soviet cinema as well as the development of the country's homegrown film industry. The World Press Photo Contest also exhibited in Chisinau this season; the winning photos on display covered such broad topics as protests in Sudan, the little-publicized but catastrophic wildfires that have recently raged across Siberia, and the tense relationship between humans and tigers in heavily populated India. No visit to the National Museum is complete without perusing its extensive weapon collections, which represent an impressive cross-section of nations and time periods, and stopping by the bookstore, a branch of the famous Bucharest-based chain Carturesti.

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Carter-Ryan Gallery, Canmore, Canada: A Cree artist raised in Alberta, Jason Carter has become an ambassador of both his province and his Aboriginal tribe through his vibrant, joyful, and deceptively complex art. You might know him from his massive Rocky Mountain-inspired murals at the Calgary and Edmonton international airports and his recent collaborations with Canada Goose; however, it's at this small gallery in Canmore where you'll find the most comprehensive exhibits of his work. Distinctly Canadian, his handpainted hockey sticks, some emblazoned with a snarling bear, bring together many important elements of his identity.

Heydar Aliyev Center, Baku, Azerbaijan: One of Baku's two most iconic symbols, along with the Flame Towers, the Zaha Hadid-designed Heydar Aliyev Center has stood for over ten years as a symbol of Azerbaijani history, creativity, and strength. Permanent exhibitions explain the rich cultural traditions of the country and the remarkable life of visionary President Heydar Aliyev, the father of modern Azerbaijan. This fall's temporary exhibition "LiveLife," organized by Baku Magazine and IDEA (an Azerbaijani conservation organization) presented a sweeping showcase of Leyla Aliyeva's nature-inspired works; also exhibited were pieces from several other Azerbaijani artists and guests such as Russia's Victor Semonov and France's Jennifer Westjohn.

One of my personal favorite works was a massive snow leopard portrait by Fidan Novruzova. Azerbaijani cultural references, such as pomegranate motifs and the Gobustan rock art described below, was omnipresent; the country's thriving modern art scene has an inspired sense of place.'

Gobustan National Park, Gobustan, Azerbaijan: A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape contains some of the oldest petroglyphs in the world. Located just an hour-drive outside of Baku, in a windswept landscape marked by mud volcanoes, the park has over 6,000 detailed and well-preserved carvings depicting everything from religious rituals to daily life. The petroglyphs, many dating back 20,000 years, seem to have a certain mystical power: walking among them transports you back to simpler times...but ones in which core human concepts such as family, faith, and, yes, feasting, were no less important than they are today. In 2021 ground was broken on a brand new tourism and recreation complex here; the next few years may represent the last opportunity to marvel at the petroglyphs in their truly natural setting.

Marilyn as captured by Richard Avedon

World Press Photo Exhibit at National Museum of Moldova

Andy Warhol as captured by Richard Avedon

Live live Exhibiition at Heydar Aliyev Center 12

On the terrace at Gigi

EDITOR'S DINING PICKS: WINTER 2023 MENU

From amuses-bouches to desserts, the top plates and tastes that have impressed Elysium this season...

Artichokes Royale, Le Chabichou, Courchevel, France: A homage to chef Stephane Biron's childhood, when he would snack on artichokes at his grandma's, this exquisitely presented artichoke soup, decadent enough to be a full meal itself, is to be eaten with an artichoke leaf for a spoon.

Turmeric Beef Tartare, 4296, Canmore, Canada: East Asian inspired beef tartares are one of the most overrated trends in the world; I've yet to taste a single miso, wasabi, soy, ponzu, or teriyaki flavored tartare that impressed me.

Clearly chefs are just focusing on the wrong part of Asia; this Indian-inspired turmeric tartare, served with crispy papadum bread, kept the flavor of Alberta beef intact while adding a delightful kick.

Bulgarian Salad, Gok-Oguz, Chisinau, Moldova: Gagauzian food, which today blends Moldovan, Turkish, Bulgarian, and Russian flavors, is legendary across Moldova.

You'll see why at this lively traditional restaurant, where the Bulgarian salad contains the most flavorful brines (sheep's cheese) that I've ever had.

Back from a Journey, Le Chabichou, Courchevel, France: French haute cuisine and Japanese flavors meet in this remarkably flavorful shrimp broth with grilled oyster, foie gras, shrimps, kale stir-fry, and bok choy. Not my normal flavor profile and still the most technically impressive dish I tasted in an exquisite 13+ course meal.

Apricot Chili Burrata, 4296, Canmore, Canada: Apricots and baklouti green chili pepper (with edible gold for the 'gram of course) is not a common burrata pairing. But the flavor profile intuitively works...this is one of the best burratas I've had outside of Italy.

Lamb with Pomegranate Sauce, Anima, Milano, Italy: Milano's new Enrico Bartolini restaurant, under the direction of Chef Michele Cobuzzi, is a revelation with three Michelinstar potential. This shockingly tender lamb, from Gargano, was paired with pomegranate, almond, and a creamy cannelloni bite.

Trompe l'Oeil Foie Gras, Le Chabichou, Courchevel, France: This playfully presented matryoshka of a dish is the most memorable flavor combination we had all season: foie gras, green apple, and eel pair with parsley sorbet in a beautiful balance of textures and temperatures.

Masale Wali Machli, Tamarind, New York, USA: One of many outstanding starters that we recently tried at Tamarind, this ceviche-reminsicent Indian dish sees halibut marinated in garlic, ginger, turmeric, chili powder, and lemon juice then served with mango mint chutney.

Risotto Milanese, Cracco, Milano, Italy: Carlo Cracco, today one of Italy's most well-known celebrity chefs, achieved Michelin prestige partly through his creative and contemporary on Lombardian classics. The saffron risotto he's serving this season is no different; it's topped with meltin-your-mouth foie gras and prepared with the essence of the same product.

Gnudi, Mushrooms & Pine, Sauvage, Canmore, Canada: This ingredient-focused restaurant, sourcing all of its produce, meat, and fish from Alberta and B.C., serves excellent bison & rabbit...however, this creamy gnudi was my #1 standout on its ten-course tasting menu.

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Eggnog Cupcake, Crave, Calgary, Canada: We know two things to be true: Crave has some of the best cupcakes in the world and (I say this grudgingly) cupcakes are one of the most overdone desserts in the world. Thus it's surprising that I'd never encountered an eggnog cupcake before and entirely predictable that Crave's was exquisite.

Hazelnut Souffle, Le Grill, Monte-Carlo, Monaco: Sometimes the best desserts are the simplest. Combining the finest Piedmontese hazelnuts with the expertise of the world's foremost souffle master (Alain Ducasse)? Can't lose.

Tiramisu, Grey Goose Garden, Chisinau, Moldova: Grey Goose's tiramisu is well-balanced and perfectly creamy...but it's the presentation (in the same caviar tins that the restaurant uses to serve their beluga) that makes this a mustorder at one of Chisinau's buzziest spots.

Chocolate Cremeux with Mango, The Goring, London, UK: Simple yet decadent, this dessert is topped with passionfruit and sea salt. Equally impressive is the Goring's honey poached pink grapefruit, served with macadamia and lime.

Want your favorite destination, song, or book on the Elysium Hot List? Know anywhere we should hear about?

Destination of the Season: Courchevel 1850, France

Connect with us on Instagram at @worldofelysium Or get in touch at elysiumcocktailclub@gmail.com You could be featured in the next edition of Elysium magazine!

Untitled The ideal cocktail bar, it can be posited, is a carefully curated personification of its city. Yet, paradoxically, it is indelibly shaped by the characters who define that city. An empty bar, at opening hour, is a painter's blank canvas: for the individuals who flow in and out, it can be a refuge, a home away from home, a locus for magical nights and meaningful connections. Meanwhile, the cocktails served at an ideal bar are far more than just drinks. Works of art, they are a powerful means of self-expression--carefully designed with a personality of their own and given further personality by the guests who select them. The cocktails we choose, like the clothes we wear, speak to our identity, values, and dreams: they illustrate how we see ourselves and how we want to be seen by the world. And, like fashion, they are reflective of an ephemeral mood and moment, subject to constant change and growth as days, years, and generations go by.

This is a story of one city and one bar at one flashpoint...to be continued in future issues of Elysium. Our destination: vibrant, green, and multicultural Calgary...formerly known as the Wild West but now experiencing a cultural, culinary, and sartorial revolution that makes it the vanguard of Canada's avant-garde. Our bar: Untitled Champagne Lounge, one of Elysium's top-ranked cocktail spots in the world. All characters are fictional, but, as art often is, inspired by the people who inspire us.

STORIES OF CALGARIANS AND THEIR COCKTAILS @untitledyyc

JESS

The ideal cocktail bar, it can be posited, is a carefully curated personification of its city. Yet, paradoxically, it is indelibly shaped by the characters who define that city. An empty bar, at opening hour, is an painter's blank canvas: for the individuals who flow in and out, it can be a refuge, a home away from home, a locus for magical nights and meaningful connections. Meanwhile, the cocktails served at an ideal bar are far more than just drinks. Works of art, they are a powerful means of self-expression--carefully designed with a personality of their own and given further personality by the guests who select them. The cocktails we choose, like the clothes we wear, speak to our identity, values, and dreams: they illustrate how we see ourselves and how we want to be seen by the world. And, like fashion, they are reflective of an ephemeral mood and moment, subject to constant change and growth as days, years, and generations go by.

This is a story of one city and one bar at one flashpoint...to be continued in future issues of Elysium. Our destination: vibrant, green, and multicultural Calgary...formerly known as the Wild West but now experiencing a cultural, culinary, and sartorial revolution that makes it the vanguard of Canada's avant-garde. Our bar: Untitled Champagne Lounge, one of Elysium's top-ranked cocktail spots in the world. All characters are fictional, but, as art often is, inspired by the people who inspire us.

"A GREAT COCKTAIL BAR IS A GREAT THEATER."

NATHAN

"I LOVE MOBSTER MOVIES. AMERICAN GANGSTER. THE GENTLEMAN. MOVIES WHERE YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON IN UNTIL THE END AND THEN IT ALL TIES IN."

"I'LL WEAR A BLACK V-NECK TO DEATH. IT'S MY BATMAN UNIFORM."

"I ONLY DRINK ESPRESSO...

COFFEE IN ITS MOST NATURAL STATE."

HAN

NATE

"My Life has been over-saturated with champagne."

CALGARIANS & THEIR COCKTAILS NATHAN--Pictured drinking THE BLACK SAMURAI: "I always gravitate towards elegant places with Gatsby allure...but I need authenticity. And at the end of the day, it's all about the. company. There are many different versions of a perfect night out. Being with my wife, that's one formula. Being by myself, if the bartender is great, that's another version. And being with a long-lost friend, in a diniger place with character...always ideal."

NATE--Pictured drinking DOM PERIGNON 2003-LE PLENITUDE: "You see people drinking a lot of champagne on their Instagram stories, and that's cool....everything has a place. But I really love when people look past the sexy Moets and the Veuves and ask me for my honest opinion. And at the end of the day, more important than the type of champagne is the people you drink it with. There's a certain nostalgia to champagne; you remember the first time you tried a specfiic bottle in connection to who you shared it with. If you open a bottle with someone, make amazing memories, then sit down and open another bottle with them twenty years later, that's special."

JESS--Pictured drinking BUTTER LOVERS: "Everything bores me. I've lived in so many cities and drank at their best bars...so now I enjoy the scene while laughing at the scene. I like to say that our lives should not be viewed as a continuum but rather as a series of specific influential moments that punctuate and shape everything in between. A bar is a stage for a disproportionate amount of these moments; from celebration to chaos, you never know what you'll witness but you know it will be entertaining.

For me, a truly elite experience is all about the company you keep. And for me, the best night is spent with my best friends...experimenting with new cocktails at a bar with character that feels like home."

CALGARIANS & THEIR COCKTAILS THE DRINKS:

THE LOOKS:

BUTTER LOVERS: cognac, rum, coconut dill-infused gin, popcorn butter foam...served with popcorn

JESS...Blazer: Bespoke by tailor in Crete, Greece, Shirt: Yves Saint Laurent, Hat: Dead Blonde

BLACK SAMURAI: mushroom infused Suntory Toki whisky, soy sauce, amaro, coffee liqueur, house-made chinese 5 spice bitters, black truffles — roasted espresso bean air

NATHAN: Jacket: Tom Ford, Pants: World of Vici (bespoke), Shoes: Gucci

"Japanese whiskey is trendy, but what's not trendy is Japanese whiskey infusions. Here we added a funky flavor by infusing mushoroms into our whiskey in many different ways. We then added black truffle on top for some luxury, a touch of soy sauce for saltiness, and two verisons of espresso---which pairs well with everything. It's savory and earthy ..and brings out the umami notes of our truffle martini in a more masculine way."

NATE: Shirt: Vitaly, Jeans: Zanerobe ,Belt: Hermes, Shoes: Air Jordans, Necklace: Frank Wilder, Hat: Dead Blonde

WHITE NEGRONI: Eau Claire Parlor gin, suze, lillet blanc

HAN: Shirt: 8seconds, Pants: Uniqlo, Shoes: The Feeting Room

Creative Director: Jesse Scott Photography & Styling: Seriozhenkova, Jesse Scott

Anna

Cocktails: Nate Newman, Nate Bueckert Special thanks to Untitled YYC for allowing us to use their space during this shoot

'An outstanding lunch with your beloved ones in La Pinède.'

'San Pellegrino will be your best friend during hot beach days.'

D R EA M I N G WITH DIANA

The World of Elysium asked digital creator Diana Huk about her favourites for Côte D'Azur.

'Stay active with a set from Alo Yoga--perfect for a morning hike in Tête de Chien or a run near the beach.'

'Dead Blonde cap for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.'

'Keeping my skin protected with Colorescience Total Protection.'

'Looking for an effortless look for your lips? Dior Lip Glow Balm is a perfect solution for you.'

'Zanotti for every night out.

P.S. How can't we love those stunning colors!'

MILAN & PARIS FASHION WEEKS S/S23

KRIZIA

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ANTONIO D'ANNA'S GAME OF OPPOSITES: THE CREATIVE AND UNEXEPECTED DOMINATE ANOTHER TRIUMPHANT KRIZIA COLLECTION Since taking over as head designer of Krizia, Antonio D’Anna can do no wrong. Sourcing inspiration from the storied brand’s archives, adding modern components to timeless silhouettes, and playing with contrasting materials, D’Anna has deftly guided Krizia on an exploration of its heritage while giving it a facelift for the future. Spring/Summer 2023, with its allusions to Mondrian and Gaultier, surprisingly lightweight pastel knits, and the natural evolution of the Krizia pleat that has dominated past seasons, was his most complicated collection yet.

Walking into the presentation at the Principe di Savoia, the first thing that caught my eye was, shockingly, a monochrome noir ensemble highlighted by rubber.

Modern armor, what amounted to a black breastplate and codpiece, hugged the body over a mesh dress. Cones of rubber, immediately recalling Jean-Paul Gaultier’s iconic “cone” or seashell bra, covered the breasts. Was this an allusion to Gaultier or an inadvertent challenge of his originality? We don’t know, but given that the foundation for this collection was the 60’s Krizia archives, it’s easy to conceive that the style was considered and discarded in Italy before Gaultier popularized it in the 80’s. The ensemble was completed by oversized black cuffs, its total effect seeming both futuristic, and, given the BDSM influence on fashion, erotic.

This was not the only use of black rubber in the collection. The cones returned in a monochrome pantsuit while a long leather dress (boasting the deceptively complex construction which defines D’Anna’s work) achieved the same aesthetic. Black rubber in this collection was tantamount to (and the progression of) the panther-printed plastic prevalent in Spring/Summer 2022. A recurring anchor of modernity, swagger, and sex appeal, it stripped the collection of predictability by balancing classic cuts and graceful materials.

Furthermore, while the panther motif was gone, the plastic of previous seasons lived on in subtle ways. Take a wool “bralet,” it’s conical cups covered in plastic, paired with a wool skirt enriched by a plastic belt.

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Wool would not typically be expected in a summer collection. However, its use exemplifies how confidently D’Anna plays with a wide variety of textures and materials to create cohesive but unique looks. A relatively rough canvas fabric was used for a couple of looselyfitting white garments, the sort of casual but clean grit that would weather a hot summer on the Greek islands or Turkish riviera. A blue pastel dress, distressed in all the right places, hugged the body with its soft cotton knit.

And a furry calfskin served both as an insert on a duffel bag and the bust of a couple of crop tops.

The fastenings and adornments this season, as they have been in the past, were original. D’Anna turned to the “intrinsically pop soul” of the 1960’s to incorporate multicolored resin jewelry into the wefts of fabric.

Sometimes they were carefully arranged as to look haphazard; at other times they brought symmetry and geometry to elegant black and white dresses. In all cases, they were uniquely Krizia, hearkening back to an age and trend in fashion that has yet to see a resurgence among other contemporary brands.

Painting a contrast to the structure of these resinadorned garments was a series of outfits given an ephemeral quality through silk organza of varying degrees of transparency.

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T

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These I conceptualized as Krizia’s “mermaid dresses." In delicate shades of rose pink, baby blue and an incredibly faint sea-foam green, they seemed as if they belonged to nature and could seductively slip beneath the waves, never to be seen again, at any moment. They also were grounded in the classic Krizia pleat, which from close range recalls the undulating ridges of a seashell.

Antonio D’Anna’s “game of opposites,” as it was referred to at the presentation, continues to be a revelation in the Milan fashion scene, transcending trend and period by presenting timeless silhouettes with modern sensibility.

Masculinity and femininity, ephemerality and permanence, nature and technology, tradition and daring.

All effortlessly compliment each other, as if the base strands of Krizia's DNA. We can credit D’Anna as the interpreter capable of translating this DNA into a 21st century vocabulary, having filtered encyclopedic archives to do so.

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T

From Krizia S/S 2023 Lookbook

From Krizia S/S 2023 Lookbook

A L E X A N D R E

V A U T H I E R

Elysum's S/S 23 Best Designer of the Season

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Hungary's Finest Fashion House Showcases Elegance and Versatility at Paris Fashion Week

EXPLORING THE REAL UAE

N A N U S H K A

Timeless elegance and effortless verasility have been the identity of Nanushka since Sandra Sandor founded it in 2006; I would suggest that the collections are designed for old souls and young hearts. The classic color palette suits many personalities and seasons, and while practicality and sustainability are at the heart of the brand, they are never emphasized in a way that could compromise Nanushka's graceful feminine aesthetic and playful spirit. Ultimately, Nanushka has found a perfect formula for balance in style and harmony in values. This was all on display in an impeccable S/S 23 collection that debuted at an understated Paris Fashion Week presentation.

Camel, cream, and white dominated; when color did appear it was in soothing pastel shades of purple, orange, and blue. Knits and vegan leather anchored the presentation as they have in past seasons; while these may not immediately strike one as summer fabrics, each piece was sufficiently supple and lightweight to withstand July heat. Both the men's and women's components of the collection were meant to be layered with contrasting fabrics, generally in ways that emphasized irrefutably effective color pairings such as black/white and brown/cream.

Elyisum was particularly struck by the delicate purple top pictured at top left; it combined three major trends of the season (knits, Gaultier-style cone bras, and lilac) in a way that was distinctly Nanushka. This top was a refreshing re-interpretation of sensual summer knitwear that, in a disappointingly rare phenomenon, did not seem to spin off of Missoni.

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Also notable was how Sandor emphasized her brand's Hungarian heritage. Motifs derived from traditional Turanian ornaments danced across everything from dresses to bags to silk shirts. The form of the designs also referenced traditional Hungarian clothes; Sandor sourced inspiration from centuries-old local crafts techniques.

MERYL ROGGE

BELGIAN DESIGNER GOES MISS AMERICANA FOR RETRO COLLECTION WITH BROODING LA VIBE

MARTINA CASSATELLA

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One of my favorite things about Meryl Rogge is that she operates with complete freedom and creative license as a designer. Selfliberated from the formulas and expectations of the fashion circles in which she operates ("this collection has one specific inspiration," "this collection marks the natural progression of my identity from the past five seasons,"). she simply designs clothes that she likes based on the varying influences she connects with at a given time.

Thus it was par for the course that Rogge's S/S 23 Paris Fashion Week presentation couldn't have been more different from the exuberant banquet scene she staged the season prior. Rogge started designing the collection shortly after that "banquet" while on a trip to LA. Inspired by romanticized retro Americana (the same sort that Lana del Rey celebrates and satirizes with a certain dark humor), she collaborated with Swiss artist Beni Bischof for a one-of-a-kind collection that was wildly popular at its debut.

Equal parts grunge and pop art, cynicism and whimsy, it captured an era of America with a clarity and objectivity that could only come from a European viewpoint. There were glimpses of Warhol; Meryll translated cultural icons and consumerist obsessions to fashion just as Andy did to art fifty years ago. Bluecollar culture and work ethic were subtly celebrated, whether it be through the ironic "Wet Paint" label on a pocket or the font on a baseball cap. Yet so was counterculture and angst. One pair of jeans emblazoned with the slogan "Do Nothing Club..." I couldn't help but envision these modeled by stereotypical movie bad boy John Bender. And American sports references were layered throughout; cropped t-shirts spoke to cheerleader culture while jerseys and letter jackets clearly inspired several pieces.

Was this a social commentary? Likely, but done with the ambiguity and grace. As Rogge told Vogue Runway "I don't think this collection is a political statement; it's more like a human statement, or a woman's statement." This exemplifies the earnestness and authenticity that I have come to love Rogge for: not just in her personality but also in each design. I have no idea what next season will look like...but I do know that it will come from the heart and tell many compelling stories.

MARTINA CASSATELLA

FASHION OR POETRY?

BLAZE COMBINES THE ARTS IN MOVING LITERARY-INSPIRED PRESENTATION

“Fashion is poetry,” while far from the most cliched adage in the industry, is likely something that you’ve heard before. There’s undeniably a certain symmetry between aesthetic and linguistic arts; designers perpetually draw inspiration from fundamental human desires such as love, freedom, and even vengeance in their works. Often specific authors or pieces are cited as centering concept collections, with viewers encouraged to contextualize garments through literary lenses. This is a powerful technique for positioning fashion, and our fashion choices, within a broad and holistic conceptual framework; it can imbue garments with a vibrant personality and allow us to relate to them on an emotional level rather than one of passive appreciation.

I’ve written at length about how many designers are at their most powerful when their clothes have a certain ambiguity….the air of a semi-completed canvas upon which their creator has left an indelible impression but has also preserved space for the wearer to project their own sentiments and interpretations. For me true beauty is found when designer and client combine; when a creative vision is realized by a wearer with a vibrant personality worthy of it. Here both parties have tremendous agency in self-expression. However, there is a missing link. Clothes are generally translated from the sartorial language of the designer to that of the wearer via professional models, whether in the form of advertising campaigns or runway shows. This begs the question; where is the models’ agency? Where is their voice? Why are they, in many cases the muses for an artistic vision and the driving force behind a brand’s commercial success, often seen as mere conduits of sartorial information instead of powerful individual players in their own right?

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Blaze turned this paradigm on its head in a nuanced and interactive S/S 23 presentation that focused on female empowerment. Fashion was contextualized against literature, poetry, and philosophy; models meandered around the guests quoting their favorite pieces. The literary salon atmosphere was perfect for the grand yet comfortable mansion in which Blaze frequently hosts their events and guests felt at ease engaging in discussion based off the works quoted.

As for the S/S collection, silk and linen dominated with a slightly more sparkly color palette than we have seen recently from Blaze. Highlights included a sequined purple jacket, structured but paired with slinky distressed pants, and a pink flowered blazer evoking Japanese influence. More casually elegant looks included a gold-buttoned white dress (complete with the iconic smiley pockets) and various renditions of the “chiller” blazer.

Blaze's designs have become increasingly modern recently; look for more innovation (both in presentation style and in collections) in coming seasons .

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Line, color, and motion were also central to the art of Alexander Calder, a contemporary and collaborator of Schon.

Schon used Calder’s famous mobile sculptures in many of her patterns and his elegantly minimalist way of perceiving shapes clearly influenced some of her dress designs.

Johansson returned to the Schon archives in finding inspiration for this season and made Calder’s art a focal point. Several garments are reminiscent of his signature geometry and color schemes while a mobile was the centerpiece of the presentation.

The most impressive garment was an undulating pleated dress composed of cascading bands of seven different colors.

Each section of the dress is hand-woven then connected with small strips of transparent fabric; the hem is also completed by hand. When on a moving figure the dress dances like the feathers of a tropical bird in the breeze; a chameleon, it appears to change color with every motion.

If some garments are chameleons, Mila Schon is anything but. The brand has stayed true to its DNA for decades, adhering to timeless tenets of design, and that has not changed under Johansson. The Spring/Summer 2022 collection was truly transcendent; these pieces, like Calder’s versatile art, will remain stylish across generations, eras, and locations.

Guest at Blaze presentation

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S H O E

S P O T L I G H T

As is generally the case, several shoe collections stood out as highlights of spring/summer Milan Fashion Week.

This year was all about glamor and elegance, with sleek modern silhouettes and futuristic visions serving as common denominators across brands. Out of many worthy candidates, four specific collections that captured Elysium's heart.

Giuseppe Zanotti emphasized bright, clean colors in unique tones. Large gold chains, unapologetically ostentatious yet nonethless feminine, highlighed many pairs of heels.

Le Silla, meanwhile, emphasized glitter and crystals while also presenting a series of bags that perfectly paired with the shoes.

Rene Caovilla introduced majestic new forms of its iconic cobra. But it was Casadei, typically one of the more conservative brands wihtin the Milanese scene, that was the most suprising of all. Partnering with web platform Another 1, as well as Cesare Casadei's daughter Arianna, the brand launched a set of 1,000 NFT's as well as a Metaverse experience celebrating the 10th anniversay of "the Blade." .

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Casadei

La Silla

Giuseppe Zanotti

L A

S I L L A

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R E N E C A O V I L L A

C A S A D E I

G I U S E P P E

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Z A N O T T I

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AMATO DANIELE

HISTORIC MILANESE BRAND SERVES UP NEW ERA AT CELEBRATORY PRESENTATION

Amato Daniele, the 115-year-old brand long beloved by the British royal family, is defined by tradition; every bag has been "designed, crafted, and made by hand" in the Leu Locati studio for over a century. Daniele normally debuts its new collections in said studio; a Fashion Week tradition is ending Thursday or Friday at a convivial gathering (often including a workshop tour) on Via Cosimo del Fante. This year, however, the brand went in a new direction, drawing in the Instagram generation with a glamorous event at a splashy new design hotel (Palazzo Cornalia) near Bosco Verticale. The theme was "banquet" and on the menu was a proper fashion week diet of bags in vibrant shades of fuchsia, emerald, and azure.

This season also saw Daniele introduce his inaugural fragrance and partner with a local gin company to serve G&T's complimenting the bags and scents. Milanese brands have attempted to modernize with varying degrees of success in recent fashion weeks; this was one of the most impressive pivots I've seen. As evidenced by the youthful energy and multitude of rising TikTok/Instagram titans in attendance, Daniele has appeared on the radar of Milan's avant-garde; look for his sleek and masterfully hand-crafted pieces to appear on more red carpets than ever in the coming months and seasons.

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MARTINA CASSATELLA

ASPESI

COZY CHIC COLLECTION POPS WITH CLEAN COLOR PALETTE, OVERSIZED SILHOUETTES

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The revived Balestra launched its second collection for S/S 2023, with references to the hedonistic spirit of Dolce Vita Rome stronger than ever. While the debut collection focused as much on daywear as evening wear, with contemporary silhouettes dominating, this second offering - "Upload" - quickly progressed into unapologetic opulence.

The tripartite collection - divided into "Day," "Night," and "Archive" exuded fierce confidence, feminine strength, and raw sexuality unlike anything else in Milan this season. Playful Piranesi prints, tributes to ancient Rome, danced across the vibrant Daywear capsule. Balestra Blue capes and coats, not to mention a herringbone dress inspired by a stunning 1986 Pat Cleveland look, took our breath away in the Archive capsule. And the evening capsule, inspired by prisms and designed to wreath the wearer in swirls of reflective light, provided unforgettable gala-worthy dresses to flow across the red carpet like the tide off Capri.

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RODO Rodo has always been associated with rich tradition; while all Italian brands are rightly proud of their heritage Rodo remains particularly dedicated to operating with the same philosophies and quality of craftsmanship as it did when founded in 1956. It’s a brand that brings the same motifs and styles back season-after-season…each collection converses with its flashpoint but there are no attempts to “reinvent the wheel” or fall in line with the latest fleeting trends. Make no mistake: this is a strength, one of the reasons why Rodo is always one of my favorite events on the Milan calendar. However, this paradigm is also what made its most recent presentation and concept so refreshing.

This past year, Rodo staged a competition for young art grads in partnership with Fida Worldwide. As Gianni explained to me, a strong international presence is intrinsic to Rodo’s success; the brand is loved from Britain to France to Russia to Korea.

Linking history and the future, “Italian-made” heritage with international outlook, Rodo invited emerging artists from around the world to provide their own visual interpretations of the brand’s iconic pieces. The winners had their paintings presented in conjunction with the new collection, interspersing classic styles with young talent and the colorful fashion portraiture that (see Izak Zenou) has dominated pop culture recently. Among the selected artists was Hossein Borojeni of Paris; my personal favorite piece was his depiction of a “femme fatale” lounging against a blue background while holding the classic “willow” bag. Borojeni had a rich career in industrial design before turning to fashion illustration…but you wouldn’t know it from his graceful brushstrokes which reflect a fascination with the human form. “Kate Moss is the new Venus de Milo,” he recently told Celebre Magazine.

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The overall winner of the newly minted Rodisegno Prize was Connie Lim, an LA-based illustrator deemed to “best evoke the soul of Rodo.” Lim depicted the brand’s classic seashell bag in a way that referenced Rodo’s passion for the environment (best evidenced in the A/W 2022 presentation) while also drawing inspiration from Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. Her work appeared alongside those of the multinational roster of Ekaterina Demina, Chris Gambrell, Johanna Layla, and Kelly Bailey. The art added a youthful exuberance to the presentation; however, the highlights were, as expected, from the collection. I was most captivated by the striking selection of black and white rattan bags and shoes… surprisingly forceful for a Rodo summer collection they added pop and personality to the expected tans and pastels. An exquisite rose pink, baby blue, and sea foam green also stood out, with Rodo providing an early indicator that sea foam could replace emerald as the preferred shade of green in 2023.

Gianni took care to point out a pair of tan rattan pumps with wicker details on the sole and heel; these features are made entirely by hand in a process that takes six hours per shoe. And the rattan components of every single bag and shoe are still made by hand by 162 meticulous artisans in Mogliano.

Rodo always amazes me with its dedication to a family atmosphere and handcrafted products in an Instagram age of fast fashion and reckless brand expansion.

This season’s artistic collaboration showed that the brand is also open to embracing the talent and innovative aesthetics of the future. Oh, and it provided some fatally glamorous representations of Rodo’s timeless elegance along the way.

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ARTNOBLE

YOUNG GALLERIST SPOTLIGHTS ITALIAN ARTISTS IN DEBUT EXHIBITION

Local content as a disruptor in the art industry? That’s the paradigm presented by Milan’s new ArtNoble gallery, founded a year and a half ago by British gallerist Matthew Noble. The softspoken Noble, just 28 years of age , has been described as an “outsider” in the Milan art world; nonetheless he possesses both a profound appreciation for Italian art and an astute understanding of how to bring it to a broader international community.

One of the first exhibitions in the gallery, opening on the first day of Milan Fashion Week, showcased a collaborative concept that Noble explained to me has has become something of a lost tradition in the art industry. Young artists and friends Martina Cassatella, Roberto de Pinto, and Emilio Gola, all recent Brera grads, live together and work together in a de facto artistic group.

They also presented this show together as opposed to individually presenting in an amalgamation of group shows. While different stylistically, the artists compliment each other well and all the works on display shared a certain humanity, sensuality, and romanticism of the everyday.

Perhaps the “biggest name” of the three, Emilio Gola drew acclaim in Italy earlier this year when one of his works was selected to appear in vogue. Inspired both by a Berlin club and the idea of a black canvas, the painting featured a series of three rather androgynous individuals intertwined atop a chaotic pile of shoes. The work recalled the beginnings of a night out in a way that transcends nationality. Anyone involved in the nightlife scene can probably remember being sprawled on a friend’s floor, a hurricane of clothes surrounding them, as they listen to music, prepare outfits, gossip, and imagine an evening of endless possibilities. There’s a sense of intimacy, of profound friendship, to these moments, and it’s a sense that Gola evokes with an effortless familiarity.

That’s hardly surprising; most of Gola’s subjects are his friends!

And most of his compositions share a certain structure: a group of three youth, each in a clearly different state of mind, engage in an everyday activity against a busy and slightly fanciful background.

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MARTINA CASSATELLA

EMILIO GOLA

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Elysium Spotlight

@isobel_griffiths_

ISOBEL GRIFFITHS Villefranche-sur-Mer, France An Exeter law grad and a purser on luxury yachts, 24year-old Isobel Griffiths has gone off-piste to forge a life that most people only dream of. Having attained her law degree while traveling the world and managing accounts for some of its most elite vessels, the native of Shrawley, U.K. is proof that you can balance your passions and create your own destiny. Elysium sat down with Isobel, currently based in her beloved Côte d'Azur, to chat about the yachting industry, life on-board, her advice for our younger readers, and even F1.

Jesse: Some people travel for their career; your career is to travel. Where am I reaching you right now, Isobel?

Isobel: I'm currently crossing the Atlantic. We were just in the Caribbean - St. Barth's, Saint Maarten, and Antigua and now we are headed back to Europe: Gibraltar then Turkey. That's how it is in yachting...every day is different and nothing is "on schedule."

Jesse: And you coordinate this organized chaos! Tell us about some of your typical responsibilities as you run the day-to-day business of the yacht.

Isobel: When on board, I run all of the yacht's accounts...in addition to a little bit of everything! I work with the owner, the owners' rep, the yacht's management company...I deal with the customs and immigration officers...I'm a concierge for the guests... and I'm also a pastoral figure for the crew while handling their contracts and travel.

Jesse: Such an impressive resume, especially at the age of 24!

Isobel: Age is definitely a "thing" in yachting; when I became a purser at 22 all eyes were on me. Something I wanted to prove is that age doesn't matter when you have knowledge and experience.

Jesse: Let's backtrack a few years. Pre-Covid, you were back home in Britain about to get your law degree at the University of Exeter. What inspired you to get into the yachting industry?

Isobel: The shortest answer is "the Côte d'Azur." My friend was in the industry and invited me to visit her in Antibes.

I fell in love the day I arrived into Port Vauban and discovered how beautiful and culturally rich France is. I kept coming back, and with eight months before I started my law degree, I thought "why not try yachting?" I have wonderfully supportive parents who are used to my crazy ideas;...so a few weeks after I took my final exams to get into uni I was sailing from Monaco to Cyprus on a 50 m. yacht. I"d just turned 19.

Jesse:: Tell me more about that first summer. How was the transition to yachting? Were you thrown into the fire?

Isobel: When I arrived I was put on navigation watch with the captain. At first I was so scared: "how do I speak to the captain for eight hours a day?" But then we went to the bridge and he explained all of the equipment, how to plan the routes with the coordinates...I was mesmerized. After the five days of navigation watch I'd already found a family on the ocean. Our first night in Cyprus was the most memorable night of yachting I've ever had. The crew went to a local Cypriot restaurant, everyone was dancing on the tables, and it set the tone for the rest of my career so far. I went from being a head-down studious girl to a woman who can experience all walks of life and places. I still love experiencing new cultures, lifestyles, cuisines....There's more to life than the British countryside.

Jesse: But you didn't totally abandon Britain...you went through with your law degree! How did you juggle these two very different worlds?

Isobel: I can remember this decision, and talking it through with the captain on the bridge. I said to him: "What if I don't do this degree? What if I make yachting my full life?"

He gave me the most cross look and said: "You cannot back out of your degree...nobody can take away your education and the boats will always be here." So I spent the next three years in law school while on yachts: full-time yachting in the summers and freelance during the year.

Jesse: Are there areas where law and yachting overlap? Do you find there's a lot of transferable skills?

Jesse: Pursers have to wear so many hats. Yet you also make time for yourself and maintain close connections with family back home. How do you find balance?

Isobel: First of all I love my job; I wouldn't be doing it if I didn't enjoy it. But I'm fortunate to be on a "rotation;" I have two months off for every two months on. Then I can really unplug. And no matter how busy I am, I make time for my parents; they'll get a call from me every day.

Jesse: So what is "unplugged Isobel" up to ?

Isobel: They're very different industries. In yachting, you're dealing with every different language, culture, A religion, 25-year-old entrepreneur and crypto with sex, age, walk of life...but you're investor living together working together in this unique scenario. bigand dreams and a strong workcompletely ethic, Max Schaumburg English is the most common language, but on board exemplifies the type of person who was drawn toI also hear Russian, Ukrainian, French, Italian, Bulgarian Dubai this past year. However, his love of Dubai etc...When you're in law, you're dealing with a more started long before the days Instagram and get to homogenous set of people.

Andofyou're on land...you influencers.

Elysium recently go home at night and silo your lifesat in down a sense.with Max to

Isobel: I love following sports; tennis, football, rugby, and especially F1. I see the races in-person as often as I can; on my last rotation I went to Silverstone which was amazing. I also love music and playing the piano; there's a grand piano on board which I can go and play whenever like. I reserve an hour a day to work out. And you know me; in my free time I can usually be found skiing or enjoying my favorite places on the Côte d'Azur (Sass Cafe and Beef Bar, anyone?)

chat about his experiences in the city, how it’s Jesse: Whereas yachting, How changed over theinyears, andyou're why "at thework" Dubai24/7? vision does that affect your community on board? continues to inspire him in his everyday life.

Jesse: Let's talk F1. How would you describe Monaco GP?

Isobel: We may come from all over the world, but we're more alike than we realize. We *literally* are all in the same boat trying to achieve the same thing. Some of us might be here for a short time--to earn a bit more money-others want to become officers and stay on the sea forever.

But whatever the long-term goals, at the end of the day we're all here to provide elite service while meeting new people, exploring new places, and experiencing new cultures...We're a team.

Jesse: At the end of a very long day, I might add. Take us through a day in the life; let's say you have a charter and are going from Italy to France.

Isobel: Firstly I'd make sure we had all the legal clearances to enter the new country; I'd send off the ship's registry and inform the authorities about the people on board. Upon arrival in port we'll dock; I'll run down to the lines men and give them a couple of 50-euro notes to thank them for their help. Then I'll meet the guests at breakfast with my big iPad; I'll explain where we are and all the exciting things they can do. We always send someone on shore with the guests if they opt for an excursion...that's usually me.

Then in my spare time I'll go over the accounts, take care of the crew salaries, and organize any transfers for people going off on rotation. I always keep a close eye on the APA: the "Advance Provisioning Allowance" we receive from charter guests before they come on board. This is the money we receive from the guests to make their stay amazing...for example, we can organize a fireworks display for someone's birthday, exclusive entry into a local event, or special on-board theme nights like a casino session or white party. So planning these things takes up a lot of time as well. It never stops (laughs).

Isobel: This past year I saw the race from the Fairmont right above the hairpin; it was a dream. And I also saw the historical Grand Prix (two weeks before the F1 race on the same circuit with vintage cars). When you step out of the taxi in Monaco and hear the roaring of engines it's a "goosebumps" moment.

Jesse: You travel as much as anyone I know. What's the last place you fell in love with? And what's your least favorite?

Isobel: St. Barth's for sure. It's a blend of Monaco sophistication and Caribbean casual. Everyone's very elegant but you can dress beachy...wear a long flowing cover-up to dinner. And around the port you have so many gorgeous boutiques--many local and St. Barth's owned.

Other than that, I'd say Norway...the fjords are special. For least favorite place, I'd say Marbella; it's not my style.

Jesse: Agreed on that. At Elysium, I always do a hot list: best books, music, drinks etc. What would you like to add?

Isobel: I recently enjoyed reading "The Alchemist" and "Influence: The Psychology of Persuasion." I'm always listening to Imagine Dragons and Andrea Bocelli. And for cocktails, anything vodka.

Jesse: A woman after my own heart. Finally, what advice would you like to give our readers?

Isobel: If you truly believe in and strive for something, life will manifest it for you. You can't wait for things to change or moan about your situation; everything comes from your own actions and your own beliefs. And I tell myself every day; kill people with kindness 58

e t n Mo o l r Ca

24 Hours of Moments Where Time Stands Still

09:22

Bonjour Monaco. Whether you slept six hours or one hour last night, the rhythm of a new day should always begin with a coffee on the balcony...and ideally a warm Eric Kayser pain au chocolat.

Monaco style is instinctual: it comes from emotion, not from a playbook.

10:47

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11:48

"My perfect Monaco day always includes a trail run up the Tête de Chien and a bird's eye view of the principality. I often stop at the local Russian grocery store en route; nothing tastes quite like алёнка on top of a mountain."

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We're all familiar with the interlocking C's of Chanel...what most people don't know is that Coco may have taken her trademark logo from a winery near Monaco.

A vineyard tour in the hills above the Riviera is always a good idea, especially for rosé lovers.

Chateau Cremat, an exquisitely maintained century-old chateau that Chanel stayed at before launching her eponynous brand, is an Elysium favorite (and the first place the double C's appeared.)

13:22

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14:40

All business. Yes, meetings are conducted over cocktails and perfectly crafted cappuccinos. But make no mistake: the Monaco lifes;tyle is "work hard play hard" and people are just as dedicated to their careers as to chasing beautiful nights. The Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, well worth the winding 40-minute drive along the Med, is a perfect place to do both.

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"I like to say that time doesn't exist in Monaco. But if you insist on subscribing to some type of calendar, the soothing rhythm of Principality life is best defined by the exciting weekend events that stretch from May's F1 to September's Yacht Show. For me, a highlight is the Longines Global Champions tour, which sees the world's best equestrian athletes compete on Port Hercule during the first weekend of July. A showcase of showjumping excellence, and a jubilant celebration of all things riding, it's best enjoyed with a glass of ice cold Côtes de Provence in hand."

16:19 17

Ah, the Hotel de Paris...the living room of Monagesque society, the boardroom of Monagesque businesses, and the perfect place to convene with old friends and plan the evening ahead.

17;43 17

19:26 The mythical casino... since 1865.

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There's something magical about getting ready for a Monaco night.

Watching the sun sink over the Med...rosé or champagne in hand...hors d'oeuvres from Rue du Marche...the perfect Riviera playlist. Surrounded by people you love, the Monaco family, open to whatever the evening brings but certain that you'll make special new memories together. And certain that the apartment will be left a war zone...Chanel, Minuty, and half of the evening's outfit options strewn across the floor.

21:1 7

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"A photo can be an instant of life captured for eternity that will never cease looking back at you."

Brigitte Bardot

22:11

"Nothing we desired anymore except to make our lives into a work of art."

Lana del Rey

TASTE OF MONACO

Technically speaking, the barbagiuan, a flaky savory pastry, is the national dish of Moncao.

Realistically, truffle pizza, truffle pasta, burrata, sushi, and black cod are all essential parts of the Moncao diet.

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Pictured: truffle pasta at Sass Cafe, a sexy salad at Nikki Beach, pesto burrata at Naos in Cap D'Ail, a salmon moment at the legendary Buddha Bar 14

00:29

Between Buddha Bar and Jimmy'z.

If these balconies could talk...

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Midnights are our afternoons

2:41

The lights are on at Jimmy'z.

Biut new stories are only beginning.

06:12

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MONACO CONVERSATIONS: Jesse Scott & Isobel Griffiths What's the perfect Monaco day? What wardrobe essentials do you need to bring? To give Elysium readers the inside perspective, we sat down with Jesse Scott and Isobel Griffiths and let them chat about one of their favourite places in the world.

Jesse summers in Monaco every year; Isobel has extensive experience on super-yachts there.

As they both tell us, there's something magical about the Principality air; something that captures a piece of your heart and keeps you forever returning to this enchanted pocket of the Côte d'Azur.

JS: So let's give ourselves some credit and say that, whatever debauchery has gone on, we're starting at 9 a.m. Let's go through a typical Monaco day.

IG: Although getting home at 9 is just as likely!

JS: This is true. Or me being a psycho and running the Tête de Chien at that time while everyone else is still recovering! It's the best cleanse of the system. But leaving all of that aside...

IG: It's always good to start with retail therapy.

We'll head over to Omega...it's my favorite watch brand; just elegance at its finest. Afterwards we hit the Metropole shopping center to get some of my favorite products that you can only find in Monaco.

Then, champagne brunch?

JS: Champagne brunch is important. But it'll be a business brunch; we'll get some work done. I think we do Indian brunch at Maya Jah...that's a brand new endeavor that they started this past fall.

Champagne brunch here used to only be Nikki. But now there are many connections between Monaco & Dubai...for example, Maya Bay and Gaia both have Dubai branches. Champagne brunch culture is taking the principality by storm.

IG: There are so many options! If we wanted to go for a more formal meal, I would definitely choose The Grill on top of the Hotel de Paris.

JS: One of the elite Alain Ducasse restaurants...the one Michelin star alternative to his three-star Louis XV downstairs. They make the best souffles in the world; Grand Marnier, lemon, chocolate, and hazelnut are all must-tries, Let's brunch at Maya Jah and then hop over to the Grill for a souffle.

IG: And after souffles, Cova for tea. Monaco is obviously glamorous. But the principality also has a more local side, and that's what you see at Cova.

It's people that live there year-round conducting business or meeting friends over a pastry.

JS: What I love about Cova is it's "oh so Italian".

Monaco is just a few kilometers from the Italian border. Cova is a Milanese transplant, and most of the time you hear more Italian there than French.

IG: Monaco is so multicultural. The Monaco family is comprised of people from all over the world.

JS: Speaking of which, on the way home from Cova, we must stop at the amazing Russian grocery store to stock up on some Baikal vodka and zakuski. It's on Rue de Marche, a hidden gem in Beausoleil.

IG: So it's probably 19:00 or 20:00 right now.

We're back home, getting ready on the balcony, sipping champagne. And we're doing Fontvieille for dinner--my favorite restaurant Beef Bar! Wagyu filet mignon, truffle mash, bao buns, & ceviche...all to share. And a proper 14% cab sauv.

JS: The souffles there are also outstanding. But we can't double souffle it. So it's Buddha Bar for chartreuse cocktails after; around midnight, when we're transitioning into clubbing. The deep house music there is iconic. Then...Sass Cafe.

IG: Sass is a cultural phenomenon that's hard to describe unless you've been. It's this very intimate, tasteful, crazy club. The barmen, if they know you, will make you the best cocktails.

JS: The beluga martinis at Sass are to die for. But you know my favorite place is Jimmy'z. So I think we spend prime time [2-3 a.m.] there, expecially if they have a big DJ. IG: Then it's back to Sass to end the night. The only sad Monaco moment is 5 a.m. there when the lights come on. You don't decide to leave Sass; Sass decides to leave you.

WHAT TO WEAR (girls): It's about being sophisticated but looking hot. Lace, silk, blouses, blazers. Don't look obnoxious, like you're trying too hard. For bags, a small over-the-shoulder clutch; you want to have both hands free to party.

And stilettos are essentials.

WHAT TO WEAR (guys): Neutral colors: black and navy. Add color and personality through some statement loafers or a masculine watch/bracelet.

But understated is key...Monaco is not a place for Philip Plein t-shirts. Also, don't pull up to the club in a matching three-piece suit; you don't want to look like you're part of the wait staff.

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