wool2yarn global Speciality Fibres
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2018-2019
Established in 1957 by Mr Jo Modiano, G. Modiano Limited is based in London. It has grown to become one of the worldâ€™s largest wool trading and processing companies. It sells greasy wool, wool tops, including Superwash and Basolan treated, noils and wastes. It also supplies wool grease from its factory in Nejdek, Czech Republic.
G. Modiano Ltd. Broad Street House, 55 Old Broad Street, London EC2M 1RX Email email@example.com Telephone +44(0)20 7012 0000 gmodiano.com
wool2yarn global Speciality Fibres
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2018-2019
Acknowledgements AWI/The Woolmark Co British Wool Marketing Board Campaign for Wool Canadian Wool Co-Operative Cape Wools South Africa International Wool Textile Organisation Mohair South Africa Nanjing Wool Market Art & Design Ely Torres Polyprint Pty Ltd Melbourne Australia Published by International Trade Publ. (ITP) PO Box 11, Caulfield South Melbourne, Victoria 3162 AUSTRALIA Editor Victor Chesky Editorial Coordinator Robyn Segal Contributers Peter Ackroyd Luca Alvagini Robert Wang Jessica Lewis Rebekah Malka Publisher ITP publications wool2yarn global wool2yarn china www.woolnews.net www.woolbuy.net Front Cover Image: Courtesy of The Woolmark Company Read us on-line www.wool2yarnglobal.com Send us an email firstname.lastname@example.org
Dear Reader Information is knowledge - the right knowledge can help companies make good business decisions. We hope this magazine will help you with your decision making, providing information about what your existing customers and suppliers are doing, and perhaps identifying new customers for the future. 2018 wool2yarn global magazine is full of opinions and views from industry leaders, as well as a comprehensive round-up of news, feature articles on new directions in innovation from top making to yarn to fabric and garments. Company profile articles provide information about future production plans and trends from companies in our industry. In addition, we address topics of interest including changes in dyeing practices, auxiliary use, fibre testing, advancements in textile machinery, and how your business may be affected by changing global trading conditions. There are of course a number of factors that can impact the well being of our industry. On the one hand high Merino wool prices and drought conditions in some parts of Australia and South Africa could affect an already tight supply chain. The uncertainty of Brexit and trade tensions between China and the USA could also have an impact. On the other hand, there is good economic growth, and in particular a rapid growth in middle class consumers in China that will ensure a steady growth in demand for natural fibres into the foreseeable future. As the industry evolves so do we! Our readership is now attracting a growing following from companies all the way along the supply chain from wool export to retail. There is a lot to read here, so please keep this magazine handy to browse through at your leisure over the coming months. Victor Chesky Editor wool2yarnglobal 2018
Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles â€¢ 7, Miaoqiao Renmin Road, Tangqiao Town, Zhangjiagang City, Jiangsu Province, China: 215615
WOOLEN AND CASHMERE KNITTING YARN • SEMI-WORSTED KNITTING YARN • WORSTED KNITTING YARN
Tel: +86-512-58461988 Fax: +86-512-58460872 E-mail: email@example.com; firstname.lastname@example.org www.lianhongtex.com; www.yarn-factory.com
All roads lead to China
Making its mark with Mohair
Future proofing the wool industry
Mohair SA talks sustainability
NSC - 200 years of innovation Reshaping the old Silk Road The Price of sustainable luxury CfW moves towards its 10th Year Responding to demand
Mohair gains lustre in China
164-167 WOOL IN BEDDING
Red Sun partners in Europe
JOMA® Wool - naturally better
Taking environmental issues to
Japan & Sth Korea choose SPB
heart IWTO - Wool in Excellence
Strong demand for Speciality
The latest from Autefa, NSC,
Environmental compliance bites in China Discover Organica Venetian gondoliers wear wool Compass Wool - a new chapter
Prosino, Sant’Andrea, Saurer, Tecnomeccanica
183-199 WOOL TESTING
Latest in news from AWTA, SGS,
WOOL & YARN TREATMENT
NZWTA, OFDA, Mesdan, WTBSA,
EXP - clean enough to drink
Shrinkproofing that works Eco certified textile auxiliaries
46-51 DYEING Dye standards set to tighten Lawer - for dyeing accuracy
52-71 INNOVATION IN YARN & FABRIC Latest from leading producers Walking in wool Have you seen sheep sweat?
COUNTRY REPORTS 83 Argentina 86 Australia 98 Canada 99 China 102 Bulgaria 104 New Zealand 118 Falkland Islands 120 UK 138 Chile 139 South Africa
Heritage meets performance
It feels better with wool
154 Italy 159 Turkey
8 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Weâ€™ve done our best work... Now weave your magic
For more information Tel: +61 8 82094400 Email: email@example.com
All roads lead to China
otal wool production in 2018 is expected to be 1,141.3 mkg clean, a small increase is expected in 2019 at 1,143.1 mkg clean. There is low stock of Merino wool worldwide, but high stocks of broad wools. Production of finer wools is at a 70 year low with virtually no stock left in the pipeline. This comes on the top of increased demand, particularly from China. Australian wool production is forecast to reach 265.9 mkg clean in 2019, 3% down on 2018, caused by drought conditions. Due to high Merino wool prices some wool growers are shearing earlier than usual to improve cashflow. Some believe that these factors could affect the normal supply of wool into the next season. South Africa will see a slight increase in 2019 at 25.8 mkg clean. High wool prices may increase interest in wool production but severe drought will continue to effect wool production. Argentina and Uruguay will be steady at 25.9 mkg clean and 18.8 mkg clean respectively. Competition from other farming enterprises will restrict land availability for wool production. Crossbred wools are trading at relatively low price levels. This is due to a drop in demand from China and to some extent an increase in production. There is also stiff competition from acrylic and nylon and sluggish retail sales for furnishings and carpet. There was some upward movement in price in mid 2018 and it 10 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
is hoped that prices will continue to recover as high stocks in New Zealand and China are reduced. Crossbred wools for interior textiles forecast for 2019 is 104.7 mkg clean for New Zealand, followed by India at 33.7 mkg, and UK at 25.6 mkg. In India the government is actively encouraging sheep farmers to focus on wool production rather than meat production. In Mongolia wool production will reach 21.7 mkg clean in 2019 as growers respond to increased international demand for greasy wool. But all eyes are on China as it continues to transform its economy from cheap high speed to modern high quality production. The unprecedented growth of middle class consumers and domestic consumption brings new opportunities and challenges to the wool textile industry worldwide. Around 80% of the Australian wool clip is destined for China, representing over AUD 2 billion in raw wool value. Around 50% of the New Zealand and South African clips are also destined for China. Over 50% of textile products from these clips are now consumed by a Chinese domestic market. Demand for quality and luxury goods will grow substantially in China. In a report published by McKinsey & Company, that annually surveys consumer practice in China, projects that by 2022 there will be 550 million middle class consumers in China. By 2025 the consumption
of luxury goods by Chinese consumers will be more than USA, UK, French, Italian, and Japanese luxury markets combined. In China the retail value of textile clothing rose 7.8% and online it rose 20.3% last year alone. This provides an amazing opportunity for the use of wool and speciality fibres in China. However, challenges for Chinese manufacturers will be a shortage of qualified workers, an aging labour force, a squeeze on available credit, and the pressures of strong environment protection standards. These will all impact on the textile industry that is already struggling with high energy costs, and emission reduction requirements. Despite these challenges, in 2017/18 the total export volume of wool
and wool products from China reached 7.2 billion US dollars, an increase of 7.8 % on the previous year. The export of wool woven garments accounted for 37% of total wool exports. The main destination for these products is Africa and countries around the â€˜belt and roadâ€™. Wool yarn production in China in 2017 was 423,000 tons, up 7.5% on the previous year. Knitwear production has been growing at a faster rate than fabric production. Fabric wool2yarnglobal 2018
production, at 480 million metres represented a decline of 7.3% on the previous year. The buying power of the consumer in the new 25-35 year old demographic is growing rapidly. Its consumption share is expected to rise from 11% today to 60% in the near future. To educate this group about the benefits of natural fibre, including wool, will be a key factor to the prosperity of our industry.
Merino Wool Prices On a High; Broad Wool Prices Low (% change April 2018 compared with April 2017)
However, a caveat to such growth is the uncertainty caused by Trump trade wars and the impact it will have on the Chinese economy. The situation remains fluid but at the time of going to print tariffs will impact US$10.3 billion worth of traditional textile export products out of China to USA, representing 22.6% of the total textile exports from China to US. Currently as many as 20,000 businesses have been affected. Nevertheless Chinese officials we spoke to indicated that they expect only minimal effect to the industry. An IWTO business textile survey shows consumer confidence at a near 20 year high in the US and EU. Clothing retail sales in major wool consuming countries are improving. Interior textile retail sales have also lifted in some countries.
Source: AWEX, NZ Wool Services, Cape Wools, BWMB, Zambrano & Cia (Uruguay)
Source: Yanli PENG, China Wool Textile Association and C. Wilcox, National Council of Wool Selling Brokers of Australia - 2018 IWTO Conference presentations.
Apparel wool production in mkg clean
Country Australia South Africa Argentina Uruguay USA
2017 272.0 27.0 26.1 17.9 6.6
2018f 269.2 25.1 25.9 18.3 6.4
% change -1.0% -7.1% -0.7% +2.3% -4.0%
2019f 265.9 25.8 25.9 18.8 6.0
% change -1.2% +2.7% +0.1% +3.0% -5.3%
2019f 180.0 104.7 33.7 25.6 21.7 435.0
% change +0.1% +0.7% +0.9% -0.6% +5.6% +0.5%
Interior textile wool production in mkg clean
Country China New Zealand India UK Mongolia Other Countries
2017 180.0 102.8 33.2 25.2 18.5 429.2
2018f 179.9 104.0 33.4 25.8 20.5 432.8
% change -0.1% +1.2% +0.8% +2.5% +11.1% +0.8%
Source: IWTO national committee reports
12 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Reviving and reshaping the old Silk Road
hina’s One Belt, One Road initiative, historically known as the Silk Road, has the potential to transform international trade. Linking the East to the West, from China to Southeast Asia, Africa, and Europe this project will cover 3 continents and 65 countries. It has the potential to transform the trade environment of Eurasia and effect 65% of the world’s population, 40% of the world’s GDP, and 20% of all the goods and services in the world market. China’s leaders have talked openly about the Chinese dream to rejuvenate the Middle Kingdom to achieve a ‘Silk Road economic belt’, making it a signature policy initiative. But this new Silk Road is nowhere near the sea ports that currently throng with container ships. In fact the new centre is a dry port in Khorgos, Kazakhstan on the border with China, and is the world’s largest dry port. The nearest ocean is more than 1,600 miles away. Chinese-made cranes load containers onto trains instead of ships. It takes 45 to 50 days to send goods from Chinese factories to Europe by sea, but less than half that time by train through Central Asia. Transporting a shipping container overland costs more than by sea, but it is relatively speedy and still much cheaper than airfreight. It takes freight about two weeks to travel by rail from Chongqing in southwest China to Duisburg, Germany—half the time it takes by sea. Thousands of people have moved to the once empty expanse of sand around Khorgos to build a new trade hub and gateway for Chinese goods heading west. The new inland train route will span Kazakhstan to Russia, Belarus,
Poland, Germany, Belgium, and France and through the Chunnel to the UK - linking the East and the West in the quickest, most cost effective way. China hopes that by 2030 this economic belt, that is currently sparsely populated, will swell to over a million permanent residents and an annual GDP of 41 billion dollars. In 2017, Khorgos handled the equivalent of more than 100,000 standard containers; double that of the previous year. It aims to handle 500,000 containers by 2020. The economic benefits that this railroad will provide to neighbouring countries are huge. There is a longstanding tradition in textile production along this region, although mostly carpets and rugs, it is conceivable that government in these countries will build textile production for export and domestic consumption. For China this infrastructure project will open some land-locked provinces in the South of China that are 4000 to 5000 kilometres away from China’s coastal ports , linking them to ports in countries such as Pakistan and the newly constructed Port of Gwadar. It will also open major political opportunities and influence. So far, most Chinese-made products that pass through Khorgos are not destined for Europe but stay in Central Asia, moving on by train and truck to markets in Uzbekistan and nearby countries such as Iran. But it is to Europe that future opportunities lie. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Vision in innovation over 200 years Étienne Leroi - at GC40 gill assembly line at NSC Schlumberger factory in Guebwiller France
being exported to England. This was followed by WWI and WWII. Throughout this turbulent history one of the main challenges was how to retain and not to lose the knowledge and experience accumulated over time by our people’, says Étienne Leroi. ‘The people in this region have made many sacrifices to ensure that this knowledge and experience is passed on from one generation to the next’.
oday you would be hard pressed to find a topmaking plant without NSC Schlumberger machinery on its floor. The technology and engineering innovation that drives these machines is astonishing, providing accuracy and speed with hardly any human intervention. Étienne Leroi General Manager of NSC Schlumberger reflects on a success story that has been 200 years in the making. ‘It is hard to believe that it all started more than 2 centuries ago when two Swiss engineers arrived in Guebwiller to help the Schlumberger family to build its first textile machinery in the region’, Étienne Leroi said. The industrial revolution created the impetus for constant development in textile machinery. ‘This was a time at the heart of industrial development and Schlumberger could see that textile machinery would be integral to the wool industry into the future’, he commented. ‘By 1810 the Schlumberger family had designed and built its own machinery and the engineering knowledge and pioneering spirit has been driving the company ever since. Today NSC Schlumberger is still a family business and the family has been passing on the passion in engineering innovation from one generation to the next.’While we are a very conservative company we are also progressive. We constantly develop new technology with our partners to achieve the very best, and I think our GC40 is the best gill we have designed so far.’ ‘But times were not always without difficulty’, he says ‘and the first crisis to overcome was a blockade set up by Napoleon to stop goods from 14 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
In 2005 the company came very close to permanently closing its doors. ‘But today we benefit from this loyalty and dedication from the people around us. We have a strong team in engineering and in production that has played such an important role in the company’s place as a leader in the field of textile machinery innovation.’ Today NSC Schlumberger is financially secure and has a healthy order book. ‘Our customers expect us to consistently innovate when it comes to processing fibre and we are always ready to participate with industry players in joint research and development programs to push the boundaries in what is possible. Any research and development project is limited when you do it alone. Creating partnerships is always more productive and will achieve better results’. ‘We build strong relationships with our customers to understand their individual needs, so we can design machines to solve their problems and enhance their production capacity and quality. As time goes by we continue to gain greater expertise and knowledge and strive to improve our machinery. Who knows where innovation will take us in the next 50 years, but I am sure that NSC Schlumberger will continue to lead the way.’
The Price of Sustainable Luxury By R. Peter Ackroyd
The almost record price of Merino wool has been followed closely by all in the trade over the last two to three years. How will the EMI at AUD 20.00 + with little prospect of falling, affect attitudes and current commitment to wool as a natural, biodegradable and sustainable fibre?
here is an answer, but it is not straightforward, as I learned when I recently surveyed a group of Woolmark Gold licensees and their yarn suppliers in Italy and UK who are currently reporting an encouraging start to the year, but are warning that the acid tests will come at yarn and fabric trade events later in the year. When wool prices previously peaked, albeit not to today’s levels, there was an automatic, almost knee jerk reaction in the industry to seek immediate alternative fibre supply. I suspect this is not the case today as we live in an age where sustainability is championed (often quite disingenuously) by so many brands and retailers worldwide. Where a genuine sustainable message is part of a marketing strategy, it is clearly not possible to opt for polyester or other petrochemical fibres simply to meet price points, without running the danger of loosing total credibility. In the knitwear, next to skin, sports and athleisure markets we will probably see more creative high tech blends with natural fibres appearing as merino prices continue to rise. Unlike in times past, there is a genuine desire to keep wool as an integral part of collections as consumers increasingly appreciate and understand the value of enhanced stretch, better recovery, odour management etc. In the formal suiting and jacketing markets where personal tailoring remains particularly popular and which represents around 40%+ of total wool consumption, the price of merino seems relatively inelastic at the premium level of the market. The only caveat could be a possible trend towards relatively courser microns being introduced into worsted fabric collections this autumn to attempt to meet price resistance in the all-important Japanese and Chinese
formal markets. This comes at a time when business with US clothing manufacturers continues to be buoyant, compensating in some ways for the slow down several weavers are witnessing in Italy and UK.
When Merino Ruled the World of Women Some forty years ago, much of the tailored women’s wear on the racks of the UK High Street stores was in mid micron Australian Merino worsted cloth, woven in the mills of West Yorkshire, the British equivalents of today’s Nanshan, Sunshine, Shandong Ruyi and Linglong in China. Bulk manufacturing of worsted women’s wear left these shores and beyond almost overnight, causing a fibre switch from wool to polyester/viscose that saw Merino production plummet across Australia from 640 million kilos clean per year to around 220 million kilos, a figure that has remained relatively constant for several seasons. Could the same fibre switch happen in men’s wear? Frankly I doubt it. In the UK and other mature markets where a suit (or a jacket) remains an ‘aspirational’ purchase for many in a world of casualisation and the advent of ‘athleisure’, 100% wool remains an imperative in the upper middle to premium end of the formal market.
Defending and Developing Paolo Zegna, a highly respected captain of industry in Italy, has remarked on many an occasion that the two main areas of growth and profitability at Ermenengildo Zegna were personal tailoring (the real money maker) and athleisure. Merino wool will definitely remain the core of the former. Let us strive to make it the core of the latter. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Future proofing the wool industry by Victor Chesky
see this changing much in the near future, maybe <5% more or less every year. Farmers in Western Australia have moved to cropping, requiring huge financial investment, so returning to sheep growing is not practical. At best South Australia might see 2-4% growth, as there is no more grazing land available. Due to the drought in Queensland, McCullough is doubtful that even with a possible land recovery, there would be an increase in sheep numbers. Tasmania may achieve a 2–4% growth at most, citing very small stock levels.
AWI CEO Stuart McCullough
ustralian Wool Innovation (AWI) and its subsidiary The Woolmark Company (TWC) represent the interests of 55,000 wool growers in Australia. Over 1.8 million bales of wool sold annually represent AUD4.3 billion each year. AWI has recently invested $71 million in 398 projects with 140 partners worldwide. It operates 13 offices internationally with 185 staff. I asked AWI CEO Stuart McCullough to comment on Merino prices, currently at historic highs, and to provide insight into AWI’s promotional projects and their impact on consumers today and tomorrow. Strong prices are fundamentally a result of a strong and consistent demand for Australian wool. It is simply a matter of supply and demand, points out Stuart McCullough. In terms of supply, Australia produces around 350 million kgs of wool per year and I cannot
16 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
In terms of demand, he remarks, we see 300 million Chinese in the middle class that were not there before. In addition, there are another 300 million not far behind them. All want luxury items. Do I see this trend diminishing? I really don’t think so. I believe it will only grow. Demand will continue to be strong. Furthermore, he explains, in our view, the cost of fibre is immaterial; it may represent $2 in the garment - such a small amount in the overall cost to produce a garment whether it is a suit or a sweater. So, higher greasy wool prices have little impact when it comes to the overall cost of the finished garment. In addition, wool is a natural fibre that is biodegradable, traceable, and ethical and these features put wool at the front of the queue for the consumer. The consumers of today and of tomorrow, particularly the Y’s and Z generations, want to know where the fibre in their clothing comes from, who made it, and what happens to it when it is thrown away. They are internet savvy and this has led this cohort to be similarly flexible and changing in its fashion, style consciousness. We must communicate with
them on their terms. Leading international brands and sport companies such as Nike and Adidas recognise that this cohort is interested in natural fibre, and in particular wool, in clothes, running shoes, and soft tailoring. So we see demand strong for some time into the future. Nevertheless there are several caveats to this strong demand. It assumes there are no financial disasters in the foreseeable future, and the impact of Brexit is still unknown in Europe, as is the impact of trade wars currently playing out with USA, China, and Europe. Stuart McCullough goes on to say that AWI / TWC will continue to promote wool as a fibre of choice. Specifically, in 2018/19 we will place greater emphasis into promotion in the USA market. This country, relative to its population, has a low wool consumption. We endeavour to change this. We plan to take synthetics head on in our consumer campaign in the USA and I can see our staff presence growing from 10 to perhaps 20 people in that region to execute
our plan. In China we are rolling out our 50 Year Anniversary in China. We are working with Vogue China and the government in China on a number of promotional events that will educate the consumer in this country about the benefits of wool fibre. AWI / TWC will continue to work with partners and licensees to develop new applications for wool fibre. At present it is working with BMW and Tesla to have wool featured more prominently in the automotive industry, as well as campaigning for greater wool use in bedding products, and promoting its benefits in skin health. For the wool industry to prosper into the future we must accept that we are in a digital age and embrace this for the new opportunities that it presents, Stuart McCullough adds. We may not know where the future will lead;we do know that we must be digitally savvy. Our WoolQ project is future proofing our industry and it is open to all. We are looking forward to implementing an online trading platform in the near future, that is open and data transferable. The first step is E Speci an alternative to the paper specification version that is now online and available for use by all WoolQ registered users. AWI has also relaunched its website Woolmark.com - this offers its content in seven languages and provides extensive and interactive information on Australian wool for textile manufacturers and consumers.
We are working with Vogue China and the government in China on a number of promotional events that will educate the consumer in this country about the benefits of wool fibre
I Federico Paullier Managing Director Chargeurs Luxury Materials
n 2017 Chargeurs Wool changed its name to Chargeurs Luxury Materials. ‘This marked a real transition for Chargeurs Wool, expressing our commitment to the global luxury fashion markets, including nonwool luxury fibers, such as cashmere, silk and alpaca’, says Federico Paullier managing director at Chargeurs Luxury Materials. ‘To pursue this selective marketing strategy our Chargeurs Luxury Materials team launched its new Organica Precious Fiber label last year. ‘The consumer has changed in the last 15 years. Today’s’ consumer is sensitive to the materials used in their garments. They want to know where they are produced and ask brands for proof of authenticity, and as a world leader in merino wool production Chargeurs Luxury Materialsis committed to responsible, sustainable, and high quality products. ‘Our Organica label stands for the very best that the wool industry can currently offer in terms of animal welfare, land management, sustainability, quality, traceability and Corporate
and Social Responsibility’, says Federico Paullier. ‘It is the answer to the expectations of todays’ consumer. It also guarantees the quality and traceability of wool fibers right across the value chain from the farm - where the sheep are bred and shorn - to the garments of the most fashionable global brands. ‘Our Organica label relies on a premium service offered to the brands. It guarantees the certification of each contributor in the value chain while tracing the wool from farmer to garment. Only premium wool is used and our expertise enables us to create a worldwide network, and is certified and audited by a third party every year. Organica adds value, and with this brands can leverage a certified and traceable story’, he says. ‘This authentic label provides reliable information from farm to fashion through spinning or knitting, each step is awarded the Organica specification that brings together brands with a unique and very strong added value. Spinners and manufacturers also benefit by using Organica. ‘We select the finest greasy wool tops from the beginning of the process. We rely on a strong relationship with the producer ensuring high quality and stability in the fibers. The wool top is processed in the USA, Uruguay, Argentina, and China, close to merino sheep breeding areas in Australia, NZ, USA, Uruguay, and Argentina. This worldwide presence offers flexibility and effective responsiveness, and is ideal for long-term contracts that are preferred by brands’, he says.
18 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Demand and supply a tale of two wools
ince mid-2016 the trading conditions for Northern European wool suppliers have been extremely challenging. After pretty good years in 2014 and 2015 various factors have made the marketing of German wools and Crossbred wool exceptionally difficult. But market conditions do seem to be improving. There are indications that the stock pile in China has all but evaporated and Chinaâ€˜s manufacturers are buying crossbred wools again. Some believe that this buying is mostly due to cheap prices rather than to actual demand. Victor Chesky put this contention to John Semmelhaak Director of Friedrich Sturm Wool in Germany who has his finger on the pulse when it comes to both merino and crossbred wool trading. Environmental issues, over capacity and falling oil prices hit the demand for coarser wools pretty hard, and reduced demand, particularly from China, and this has been a serious issue. Artificial fibres also gained market share during this time, a further factor significantly reducing the use of coarser wools. There are a number of factors that are holding back demand for crossbred wools. Business in China has been dominated by over capacity, credit and environmental compliance issue. There is little government support for lowtech industries in China, and wool speculation seems to dominate. Stricter environmental controls enforced by the Chinese government has also resulted in reduced production and raising processing costs. Further, many focus on price and not on added value in mutual cooperation with their clients. Consequently prices swing with demand, financial resources, and market speculation.
20 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
This makes forecasts extremely difficult and inaccurate. While manufacturers in China are affected by the high prices of fine wool, despite positive market parameters, they will often not buy at that time. There is little innovation and product development in crossbred wools. One has always to watch how strong the â€˜me tooâ€™ factor influences wool buying patterns in China. 2018 started on a better footing and fortunately the situation began to improve. Rising oil prices, low stocks and a moderate increase in demand triggered greater interest in Crossbred wools. The price decline stopped and prices for coarser wool types have seen a small rebound. This resulted in a strong round of business beginning in March. We have concluded some large orders in both China and abroad and these orders are long term. We have had customers comment to us that
they are being asked for more and more products made from natural fibres. Of course this is very positive, and we are watching with interest to see whether this rebound is just the start to a new positive cycle. The market is now slowly returning to a more balance setting.
suit is going to cost USD 3.000 or 5.000 or more, this will not affect demand. Without any major turmoil in the global economy there is enough wealth to sustain this small market segment and price is not going to be a determining factor for demand.
So where to for crossbred wools now? We believe that we have two very strong arguments that are currently on our side. One is the rising oil price that makes wool more attractive, and secondly the sudden but very intense discussions around plastic waste. The wool industry has been promoting environmental credentials of wool fibre for a long time, but what is new is that now the consumer at retail is finally paying attention. Where previously the focus has been negative campaigning by animal rights groups it is now turning in favour of the positive attributes of the natural and bio-degradable fibre as opposed to oilbased alternatives.
Why are Merino prices increasing? Merino wools are to a great extend associated with luxury textiles and this makes it less price sensitive. The superior specifications of fine natural wool have been rebranded, creating additional demand in sportswear and outdoor apparel. This is a premium market able to pay higher prices for this quality natural fibre. The very top end buyers at retail are well informed about quality, nature and sustainability and belong to a segment of the market that is largely immune to price sensitivities. If the designer
...many focus on price and not on added value in mutual cooperation with their clients. Consequently prices swing with demand, financial resources, and market speculation.
With different market segments competing for a limited supply of Merino wool, prices have increased to today’s levels and it will be very interesting to see if there is enough momentum to take prices higher, or will demand for fine wools be hit by a price ceiling as experienced in crossbreds. Fine or coarse, wool is the logical alternative to ‘plastic’ fibres and good marketing should increase sales and demand quickly. The consumer wants this as much as the grower and the manufacturer. But in the end the consumer can only buy what is offered to him. Manufacturers are focused on cost and margins, quick fashion, flexibility and easy manufacturing. They will only seriously use increased and stable volumes of wool if they can achieve higher margins, until the consumer specifically demand natural fibres including wool. There are many different opinions about the wool market in Northern Europe and we are watching with great interest to see whether business continues to be cyclical, or is the beginning of a new positively. We are feeling increasingly optimistic at the positive signs for the future of Crossbred wools and that the slight upswing is not simply a storm in a tea cup. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Responding to demand by Victor Chesky
nvesting in new machinery is a long term decision so you can assume that if textile machinery manufacturers are busy fulfilling orders, it is a clear indication that the overall wool industry is feeling positive about the future. I put this to Mario Ploner of Tecnomeccanica Biellese during my recent visit to the head officein Biella Italy. ‘We are working on a number of big contracts at Tecnomeccanica Biellese and there is much investment in new machinery by companies around the world, particularly in Asia’. ‘We have been designing and installing textile machinery since 1968 and recent steps in China and Mongolia have been positive. Companies in China are recognizing the value of new machinery and what they can offer in improved efficiencies, labour cost savings, and better quality. Our environmentally friendly systems also achieve cleaner and safer conditions for their workers’. We have recently signed a contract with Ningbo China (Younger Textile Ltd) of Consinee Group. This will be our biggest contract to date’, says Mario Ploner. ‘We are working on the design and installation of a new blending system for their cashmere line, feeding these new cards. 10 new cards have been added to the 10 cards currently in operation. Consinee is the biggest exporter of high quality cashmere and woollen yarn in China with international plants around the world and we are very pleased to be involved in this project. We hope this will lead to further installations at Consinee Group plants in Japan, Germany and Hong Kong in the near future’.
Tecnomeccanica Biellese specializes in designing and constructing machines and complete plants for the preparation of textile fibres for spinning. It has vast experience in all sectors where staple fibres are processed including combing, woollen and semi-worsted, spinning, production of non woven fabrics, felt, wadding and waste regeneration plants. The Company has been steadily increasing its business in China and Mongolia. It has recently completed an installation of a new filtration system at Tianyu in China. ‘This is now running and performing very well. Waste can represent up to 15% of production capacity. The new plant installed at Tianyu is designed to collect waste in a more efficient manner as well as eliminating the inherent hazards associated with manual collection. ‘It is the first such complete plant in China, creating better environmental outcomes. It adds efficiency to production and we hope that further installation will follow ‘, says Mario Ploner. ‘One of the most attractive features of our filtration system is that it is very easy to clean. It re-starts quickly saving valuable production time’. As it is fully automated it also offers considerable savings in labour costs. Tecnomeccanica Biellese has also been installing new machinery in Europe. A new filtration system at the Modiano plant in Nejdek, Czech Republic, is one such order.
Mario Ploner, Stefania Ploner (centre) and Mr Xiao Xugao (Chinese agent for Tecnomeccanica) with Consinee management group
22 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘In all our Beppe Ploner group of companies, that include Tecnomeccanica Biellese, Sant’Andrea Textile Machines, and Coppa, we provide manufacturers with the latest technology options to achieve client objectives’, says Mr Ploner, ‘and this is the best way to celebrate our 50th anniversary’.
campaign for wool
The Campaign for Wool Moves Towards its 10th Year project, which we are calling â€œCareablityâ€?, will debut as the centrepiece of Wool Week 2018, in October. The Campaign is partnering with AEG, a brand of Electrolux AB and one of the largest manufacturers of household appliances in the world, to help explain our messages to a wider media and industry platform.
ince itâ€™s inception in 2010, the Campaign for Wool has embarked on a mission to educate consumers about the benefits of wool, both as a natural fibre with positive ecological properties and a material which produces products that are high quality and long-lasting. As the global conversation about microfibres and microplastics has grown over the last few years, this message has become an especially pertinent subject to the wool industry, and one that is very important for our patron, His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. At a meeting held at Clarence House, his home in London, he challenged us to find a way to show that wool can help ameliorate this problem. To answer to this conundrum,the Campaign is launching a unique activation which will directly illustrate to consumers that wool as a product is not only an investment, but one which can be cared for over many years. This
In our live experiments and demonstrations, we are showing consumers that most wool products can not only be cleaned in a washing machine, but also that they need to be washed much less often and at lower temperatures, which helps to reduce the individual consumers carbon footprint. Although wool, like all fibres, has ecological challenges to overcome, the Campaign wants to illustrate that on-balance, wool is vastly better for the environment than synthetic fibres. The most telling example is an experiment we held in the garden at Clarence House with The Prince of Wales in 2014. There we demonstrated how quickly wool biodegrades in soil. We buried two jumpers, one wool and one acrylic. After three months, almost all the wool jumper had biodegraded. The synthetic one, entirely untouched, would remain for eternity. Although the process of educating consumers will likely continue to challenge the wool industry for the near future, the Campaign for Wool hopes that it can help level the playing field by utilising its global retail influence and dispel any myths about wool. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Wool in Excellence
by Dalena White
ool continues to be an integral part of collections, as a genuine sustainability message is increasingly key to brand authenticity. It is nearly 50 years ago that internationally renowned luxury menswear brand Scabal commissioned Salvador Dali to produce his vision of men’s fashion in the 21st century.
Despite fashion’s predilection for what Dali called “anaemic nympholeptic high school kids,” trends at the trade shows earlier this year prove the lasting appeal of authentic quality apparel, for which wool is indispensable.
The Excellence Equation “Wool in Excellence” is the theme of IWTO’s next annual Congress, and increasingly, sustainability is part of the excellence equation. The opening symposium of Milano Unica (Winter 2019/20), held 10-12 July, focused on sustainability; wool’s intrinsic value and added performance benefits came through the offering, with wool’s thermoregulation, crease resistance, breathability and waterproofing actively promoted. At Pitti Uomo (Spring/Summer 2019 held 12-15 June in Florence), technology allied with wool’s natural qualities gave substance to style.Z Zegna’s washable stylish Merino suit has developed into a highly prized
item for practical business wear, while Reda revealed a degradable polymer membraneto achieve a completely sustainable method of allweather suiting for its line of high performance wool fabric. Likewise, at Pitti Filati (Winter 2019/20, 27-29 June in Florence) exhibitors emphasized a substantial sustainability angle, such as green philosophers Botto Giuseppe, LoroPiana, Zegna Barruffa, Filpucci, or SesiaManifatture, which have long-term, long-established systems in place, stretching from the land and raw materials to processing water use in production and monitoring dyestuffs, all carefully certificated.
Trade-offs As of this writing, trade tariff tiffs make daily headlines, second only to the ongoing saga that is Brexit, especially for those of us in Europe. We await the outcomes of both of these, pausing only to note that the United States imports 98% of its fashion and footwear, followed by the United Kingdom (93%), Germany (90%) and Japan (85%). Should the British not reach a post-Brexit agreement with the EU on trade and are obliged to adopt World Trade Organisation rules, the result could see duties of 8% on clothing crossing the EU/UK border, a nightmare scenario for the textile clothing and footwear industries and their retail customers, as well as consumers.
The Price Age
Reda at Pitti Uomo 94 – Credit to AKAstudio-collective
24 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
No article about wool in 2018-19 can go without mentioning price. The “supercycle” for Merino wool prices has been followed closely by all in the trade.
Previously, when wool prices peaked (albeit not to last seasonâ€™s levels), there was an almost automatic reaction in the industry to seek alternative fibre supply. But in this age where commitments to sustainability are key to brand authenticity and marketing strategy, that old knee-jerk reaction may not play out well. Where a genuine sustainable message is part of a marketing strategy, it is clearly not possible to opt for polyester or other petrochemical fibres simply to meet price points, without running the danger of losing all credibility. In the formal suiting and jacketing markets where personal tailoring remains popular and which represents around 40% of total wool consumption, wool is expected to remain at the core. One caveat could be a possible trend towards
relatively coarser microns being introduced into worsted fabric collections, to attempt to meet price resistance in the Japanese and Chinese formal markets. However, prices for other raw materials have also been increasing, some at an erratic rate. And unlike in times past, there is a genuine desire to keep wool as an integral part of collections as consumers increasingly appreciate and understand the value of woolâ€™s excellent handle, drape, recovery, and odour management, to name but a few characteristics of this timeless fibre.
Join Us in April Wool may account for only about 1% of the overall global fibre market but the industry punches well above its weight. Itâ€™s an industry that is passionate about its product, and continues to makenumerous contributions to the body of textile science, microfibre research, and Life Cycle Assessment for textiles. To find out more about what makes wool so special, we invite you to join us in Venice, 9-11 April 2019, for the annual IWTO Congress. Visit www.iwto.org for full details.
Painting by Salvador Dali inspires fabric design
n 1971, SCABAL commissioned Salvador Dali to create a set of paintings inspired by his vision of menswear in the year 2000. The result was 12 uniquely individual images of future fashion that are some of the artists’ most interesting creations.
Cybernetic gentleman with cassette drawers
Scabal is a Belgian textile company founded in 1938 by Otto Hertz as a cloth merchant and supplier of fabrics. “Scabal” is an acronym for Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise. As part of their 80-year anniversary SCABAL has used these iconic artworks as the creative force behind the launch of their new VISION collection. VISION comprises 12, limited edition, fabric designs each taking their inspiration from different elements with each of the paintings. Whether it’s through the golden hues that make up the hair of Lady Godiva or the vibrant scarlet of the Footman’s tunic, each one has its own story to tell.
Lady Godiva fully clothed may now join the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella
Painted 2000 - A plastic and mica hat filled with helium elevating the spirits of the depressed beggars and maniacs
26 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘The Scabal collection of Salvador Dali paintings are such an important part of our heritage’, says Michael Day, Director Scabal. ‘We felt it was time for people to see them again and our new Vision collection gives us the opportunity to celebrate the uniqueness of these artworks. Over 40 years later the ideas they represent are still worthy of conversation’. Innovative techniques flow through the collection including a faille weave which makes up the cross from the robes of the Legless Cripple or the creative use of a 3/1 twill structure to create light and shade across the Mica Hat from Year 2000.
WORSTED YARN SOLUTIONS. â€”
Worsted yarn solutions from roving to twisted package from one single source. Valuable raw materials like wool need to be handled with utmost care during the whole textile value chain. Processing the fibre on Zinser worsted Ring Spinning machine 451 or 451Impact equipped with Texparts Drafting Systems + Spindles and Accotex Cots + Aprons, followed by the Schlafhorst Autoconer 6 Winding machine and Volkmann CompactTwister with Twinpack system, ensures you the highest quality of yarn.
WE LIVE TEXTILE.
Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company
GONDOLIERS WEAR WOOL
he 2019 IWTO annual Congress will take place from 9-11 April under the theme Wool in Excellence, at the beautiful La Biennale di Venezia, one of the most prestigious cultural institutions in the world and close to the iconic Piazza San Marco. Venice, city of canals and bobbing boats, and the city’s iconic gondoliers will not disappoint. For more than 1000 years gondolas have been a primary means of transport along the Venetian canals. In 2016 Al Duca D’Aosta’s Venetian brand Emilio Ceccato – in collaboration with The Woolmark Company and the Association of Venetian Gondoliers created a new look to their iconic uniform, now crafted from Australian Merino wool for the more than 400 gondoliers. Clad in the familiar blue and white stripe top the easily distinguishable uniform now provides even greater aesthetic and functional appeal. A sartorial make-over includes a T-shirt made from Reda fabric, a sweater made from Tollegno yarn, and a Marzotto quilted vest. ‘Wearing wool of high quality as the gondoliers used to do at the beginning of the 10th Century adds value and pride to our profession,” says Aldo Reato, President at Association of Venetian Gondoliers. “We are extremely glad for this new partnership with Emilio Ceccato and The Woolmark Company.” The distinctive Woolmark Company logo will be prominently featured at all Gondola stations during the IWTO Congress in 2019, highlighting the ability of Merino fibre to respond to the requirements for such highlevel physical performance, and often in variable weather conditions. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Taking environmental issues to heart
r Qingnan WEN of Tianyu Wool comments that ‘as the largest top maker we have a clear responsibility when it comes to environmental obligations and certification. And we are proud to say that at Tianyu Wool we lead the way.’ ‘Tianyu is a leader in environmental compliance within the wool industry in China’, he continues. ‘We have invested millions of dollars into one of the most up to date waste water treatments and offer our customers RWS certified wool globally. We are a member of Interwoollab, and are ISO9001 Quality Management System Certified, ISO14001 Environmental Management System Certified and EU Ecological Environmental Protection Certified.’ Qingnan WEN
‘We have a very good working relationship with all major brands in Italy, Japan and the USA. We offer wool traceability from all origins to ensure that the right wool is selected for their use.’ Tianyu’s genuine concern for the environment is evident in its Lal Lal Estate in Victoria where it is improving pasture quality, sheep genetics and wool productivity. ‘We plan to show that with the best farming techniques wool growing in Australia can still be profitable and provide the quality to suit wool users and still be social responsible’, says Mr Wen. ‘At Tianyu we ensure that our customers receive wool that has been grown in a sustainable way, using traceable practices, producing the best quality fiber. We are also mindful of workplace ethics, and we employ skilled personnel that have built lasting relationships with customers internationally’. As the biggest top maker Tianyu processes 24 million kgs per year and provides superwash and any other treatment requested by its customers. Its annual output of scoured wool is 80,000 tons, 21,000 tons of sliver, and the annual process capacity of mercerized, shrinkproof and basolan wool is 8,000 tons. It global sourcing operation is under-pinned by wool buying offices in Port Elizabeth and Melbourne as well as in South America and New Zealand. For more information about woollen products offered by Tianyu - www.tianyu-wool.com or contact firstname.lastname@example.org
30 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Environmental, sustainable and traceable fibre production
TIANYU WOOL INDUSTRY GLOBAL PARTNER FROM FIBER TO TOP
Website: http://www.tianyu-wool.com â€¢ Email: email@example.com www.tianyu-wool.com
Falkland Islands wool to be certified on Laserscan
recent paper presented by NZWTA, and the Falkland Island Department of Agriculture, on the relationship between Laserscan and Airflow was accepted by the recent IWTO conference in Hong Kong. The paper showed that the relationship between fibre diameter of Falkland Islands wool measured by Laserscan and Airflow was consistent with that previously demonstrated for Australian, South African and fine New Zealand wool. It was proposed and accepted that the IWTO Core Test Regulations be updated to remove the requirement that an Airflow test accompany a Laserscan test for Falkland Islands wool, eliminating the cost of duplicate testing, and providing valuable diameter distribution information for processors. ‘This report summarises the relationship between mean fibre diameter (MFD) measurements by Airflow (IWTO-28) and Laserscan (IWTO-12)
across a range of Falkland Islands commercial wool samples. It has been demonstrated that certified Laserscan measurements are expected to be, on average, approximately 0.11μm finer than Airflow measurements. This difference is consistent across the 18-30 micron range tested,’ comments Phil Cranswick Customer Services Manager NZWTA. ‘The certification of Falkland Islands wool using Laserscan would benefit woolgrowers and processors through the additional objective measurement information obtained’, he says. It is recommended that the IWTO Core Test Regulations are amended to allow wool from the Falkland Islands to be certified for MFD based on Laserscan (IWTO-12), without the need for an accompanying Airflow measurement. Allowing Falkland Islands wool to be certified on Laserscan, without an accompanying Airflow measurement, would remove the additional cost and potential confusion from using two fibre diameter methodologies, while allowing trading to be on conducted on the same basis as similar wool from other major fine wool producer countries. Processors would have extra information to assist in predicting top-making performance wherever Falkland Islands wool is included. ‘Both traders and processors would need to be aware that the certified Laserscan result on Falkland Islands wool will be approximately 0.11μm finer than what has traditionally been provided by the Airflow method. This will need to be taken into consideration when purchasing decisions are made,’ says Phil Cranswick.
32 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
NEW MANAGEMENT COMPASS COMPASS COMPASS WOOL PROCESSORS WOOL PROCESSORS WOOL PROCESSORS
COMPASS WOOL PROCESSORS
COMPASS COMPASS COMPA WOOL PROCESSORS WOOL PROCESSORS WOOL PROCES
Associate Member of
Compass Wool - a new chapter In April 2018 Compass Wool Processors was acquired by a Singaporean based private equity company. Compass Wool is a 100% commission wool processor in Malaysia. One of the great advantages that Compass Wool has to offer is its location. The plant sits along the gateway connecting major wool producing countries including New Zealand and Australia to China, India and Europe, providing faster shipment time and savings in freight costs. Malaysia has zero import and export duties on all types of wool. ‘Our new management team has vast administration and operational experience. We have hit the ground running to revamp and enhance the existing operational processes at Compass Wool’, says Mr Lee, new owner. ‘We 34 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
have made immediate improvements to how we communicate and provide critical updates to our customers. This allows customers to be kept abreast of production progress, from the time their wool reaches our plant
(Australian Merino, Crossbred and European Wool) to ensure that there is no cross contamination and that the final product is at the highest level of quality for our clients. The three scouring lines will have a monthly operational capacity of 3,000 tons of greasy wool’ says Mr Lee. ‘We are committed to provide the best quality carding and combing and we are currently upgrading our carding and combing facilities. Each scoured lot is checked for lubrication and moisture content before the wool enters the card. We constantly monitor the temperature and humidity of the production environment during the top-making process.’ Compass Wool has a monthly top-making production capacity of 250 tons for 24 micron and coarser wool, 220 tons of 18 – 24 micron wool and 30 tons of 15 – 17 super fine wool. Extra care is taken during the processing of super fine wool and the machinery is slowed down to ensure that the tender fibre is treated correctly to achieve a higher yield. Mr Lee also comments that ‘we run a sustainable operation and our strategy is designed to leave a minimal environmental footprint. The capacity of our effluent treatment plant is about 20,000 m3 of effluent per month. We have plans to utilise renewable energy, such as solar panels, as an alternative source of electricity. Further initiatives include the collection of rainwater within the premises. This will be filtered and fed back into the system to ensure clean water is always accessible for scouring or sanitation. It is our strategy to reduce operating cost while becoming energy efficient and environmentally responsible.’ to the time it leaves for export. Incorporating suggestions and feedback from clients, we have also implemented standardized scouring and top-making instruction forms that provide clear instructions to our team on client requirements, and our commercial team is putting this into practice. We have received positive feedback from our clients on this change.’ ‘Most importantly, we are committed to provide the best quality for our clients and this starts from the scouring process.We have repaired and refurbished our existing scouring line and have completed the installation of our second scouring line. Our capacity will soon be complemented by a third scouring line. All our scouring lines are ANDAR machines and each line caters to the different wool types
Compass Wool uses APEO and NPEO free chemicals which comply with REACH standards in scouring. Its scoured wool and wool top is certified to OEKO-TEX Standard 100. The testing laboratory is an Accredited Member of Interwoollabs and compliant with IWTO Test Methods. ‘Our key advantage is our plant’s strategic geographical location in Malaysia, connecting source countries of wool to where spinning and weaving takes place in the global wool trade. Furthermore, our processing factory is located just 30 minutes via inland transport from the Port of TanjungPelepas (PTP). Malaysia also has bilateral free trade agreements with countries such as China, India, and Australia creating benefits to customers with no import/export duties. With our location, better processing practices and benefits from import and export duties, it make good commercial sense to consider the advantages in processing wool in Malaysia’, says Mr Lee. Compass Wool also supplies wool grease to companies that use it as a raw material in the production of lanolin for cosmetics and cholesterol for animal feed supplements. Compass Wool extracts wool grease from its scouring liquid by high-speed centrifugation. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Environmental compliance bites wool processors in China by Victor Chesky
Five years ago, China declared war on pollution and today factories flouting emissions standards are being shut down on the spot. Where previously some early wool processors flouted regulations and managed to get away with it, this is no longer tolerated by Chinese authorities. Evidence on the ground is that China’s environmental inspectors, arriving without prior warning, are measuring discharge and residue levels at processing plants, and where they exceed accepted levels inspectors are switching off machinery, and closing facilities down.
t is expected that many of these facilities will not re-open as costs to upgrade effluent plants will be prohibitive. Some of this lost processing capacity may shift to larger wool processors within China that operate newer more sophisticated effluent plants. But it will nevertheless take some processing capacity out of the system and will increase the cost of early processing. With these factors in mind you may wonder why wool would not be imported already carbonised or scoured from the country of origin. You may also ask if China’s government is serious about pollution problems, why they would penalise importers who wish to import clean wool, rather than greasy, into China with the associated import duties? Close to 80% of Australia’s raw wool production is exported to China and most of this is in greasy form. The increased cost of early wool processing in China, and the reduced capacity to scour wool in China, will encourage wool importers and early stage wool processors to process at the country of origin. ‘It makes better commercial sense to process wool at the point of origin and
36 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
avoid all the hassles associated with receiving raw wool with issues in cleaning and waste disposal, environmental compliance, greater transport costs, and you will be guaranteed to receive 100% Australian wool’, comments David Ritchie General Manager Victoria Wool Processors in Melbourne. ‘We believe that companies exporting raw wool to China will be encouraged to clean the wool in the country of origin prior to export.’ Steven Read, CEO at Michell wool processing company in Adelaide Australia also comments that ‘when a customer receives wool that has been processed by an Australian processor it will receive wool that is clean and ready for the next stage in processing. Commission scouring, available in Australia allows top makers to take advantage of high quality processing, clean production, competitive rates, and wool knowledge while saving money on transport costs by shipping clean wool’. Jim Robinson, Managing Director of EP Robinson wool processors in Geelong, Victoria adds “with raw wool now at such a high value, scouring at the point
of origin by an experienced and proven processing partner offers the topmaker the advantage of superior quality control and efficiency of prompt shipment”.
Zealand says ‘importers of New Zealand wool
Wool processing plants in major wool producing countries use the worlds’ best environmental practices and operate under strict government environmental laws. Wool can be certified to buyer requirement, so that when their tops are sold to customers in Europe and beyond they will carry all necessary environmental credentials.
full traceability. We offer our customers the
Over 25% of New Zealand wool is exported as greasy wool, and most of this is exported to China. Tony Cunningham CEO at Cavalier Woolscours that operated 3 scouring facilities in both the North and South Islands of New
have many good reasons to receive New Zealand scoured wool. They receive cleaner wool with minimal residual content with highest level of environmental certification and labelling. The cost to process wool in New Zealand is very competitive.’ ‘So, there are clear advantages to processing wool at the point of origin’, concludes David Ritchie. ‘Wool importers and top makers around the world should ask their greasy wool suppliers to quote the cost of importing processed wool in carbonised or scoured form to see if it makes better financial and environmental sense.’
Schoeller - always one step ahead
….the sustainable chlorine-free wool treatment
Total Easy Care
Red Sun partners in Europe in Biella. We see a growth for wool tops in Europe and this partnership will deliver better service to our customers and competitive prices. Chargeurs Luxury Materials is a division of the Chargeurs Group - a global company with combing mills in Argentina, China, Uruguay, and the USA, and has a worldwide presence. ‘At Red Sun we are keen to take advantage of this worldwide network for our wool supply into the future. Mr Shao Wei Yang
ccording to Mr Shao Wei Yang, Director at Zhejiang Red Sun Wool & Textile Co - ‘when the old meets the new a successful collaboration is achievable’. He made this comment in reference to the partnership between Chargeurs Luxury Materials and Red Sun Wool & Textile. ‘Last year we celebrated our 20th anniversary but we are a relatively new company compared to Chargeurs Group that has been trading wool internationally for over 100 years’. Red Sun is the second biggest topmaker in China operating 3 mills with a production capacity of 22,000 tons per year. Over 30% of its total production is for export. Its newest mill is situated in a Free Trade Zone in Zhejiang and will produce tops exclusively for export. ‘We believe that Chargeurs Luxury Materials is the right partner for us. They have a long history in Europe and a competent sales team based
38 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We also look forward to partnering with Chargeurs Luxury Materials Organica brand in the near future. We lead the way in China when it comes to environmental credentials and operate the most advanced water treatment plant in China. Federico Paullier Managing Director at Chargeurs Luxury Materials says ‘we are very happy with this agreement and very confident that the partnership will bring an even better service and provide more competitiveness for our customers. We have chosen Red Sun not only for the expanding capacity, but also because we share the same principles. We hope that together we will make a big difference in the wool industry.’
The Woolmark brand is one of the worldâ€™s best-known textile quality fibre brands. It represents a commitment to quality that spans more than 50 years and has helped define the history of wool. The appearance of the logo on licensed products has now been updated to give wool textile products a fresh new look to support the ongoing quality standards.
The Woolmark and The Woolmark Blend symbol are Certification marks in many countries. The Wool Blend symbol is a registered trademark in many countries.. ÂŠ 2018 The Woolmark Company Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. GD3025
wool & yarn treatment
Clean enough to drink processing and the cost, when compared with Superwash, is comparable. ‘The patented EXP treatment does not change wool surface as does the Hercosett treatment and therefore preserves the inherent characteristics of wool that provide such excellent fibre functionality’, says Kurt Haselwander. ‘Fibre performance such as anti-felting, machine washability including TM31 (1x7A / 5x5A), or tumble drying (TEC) are comparable to those that have undergone superwash treatment’. ‘Going green’ has taken the front seat in almost every industry, and the wool industry is no exception.Sustainability has now become an important product feature and the demand for Schoeller the Spinning Group’s EXP chlorine-free processgrows steadily.’Our EXP chlorine-free process provides a sustainable wool treatment’, says Kurt Haselwander CEO at Schoeller the Spinning Group. The water used in this treatment is clean enough for drinking and the performance results are on par with Easycare.
No pollutants are used during the anti-felting treatment process. EXP enables the wool to remain machine-washable without the use of chlorine. The conventional process previously used involves smoothing these scales and then coating the chlorinated wool fibres with a wash-resistant film. A substantial amount of AOX pollutant is released during this process. The result is environmental pollution and is directly attributable to the wool fibres. EXP completely avoids the use of chlorine and employs natural salts as an oxidization agent.
As a treatment process it receives Bluesign and GOTS certification. It also conforms to the EU-Eco Flower and Oeko-Tex standard. ‘We are working with top makers around the world and are providing them with the opportunity to process their tops using the EXP method on a commission basis at our facilities at TTIin Hard Austria’, says Mr Haselwander. ‘This treatment is all about achieving sustainability in
‘It is a truly all-round sustainable innovation. And we see it as a revolution in treatment. Wool has a scaly surface, and as its fibres do not sit uniformly, they snag when they contact one another’, says Kurt Haselwander. ‘It also provides better opportunity to color wool in new brilliant shades particularly brilliant white. This Enciel Technology was developed together with TMC.’
‘Retail customers will see product labelling that attests to our environmental credentials’.
40 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Certificate no.: 2008C0540044 Tested for APEOs and Formaldehyde
green eco-chemical wool textile auxiliaries
wool detergents eco-degreasing x100 eco-wool x100-Y
Carding oils DH-1 and DH-C DH-550 and DH-601
Anti-static agents wool anti-static DK-1 synthetic fiber anti-static agent DK-101 chemical fiber anti-static DK-220 anti-static DK-103/DK-104/DK-109
Dyeing & Finishing series detergent DX-1/DX-1N de-oiling DX-2 wool detergent DX-3 penetrating agent DS softening agent M23
Jiaxing Mount Chemical Co., Ltd 21 Jingya Road, Wutong District, Tongxiang, Zhejiang, China 314500 Penny Zhang at PennyZhang@dalischina.com Tel 0086 15921013302 Fax: 0086 573 88188768
wool & yarn treatment
Stepping up with Eco Certified wool textile auxiliaries While some segments of the textile industry may believe that China still regards its environmental protection laws too lightly that is not the case says Mr Zhu Jiankun, Director of Jiaxing Mount Chemical Co (Dalis) in Zhejiang China. ‘Today enforcement of environmental protection laws is extremely stringent in China and in some instances these laws exceed requirements in the European Union’.
alis is the largest supplier of wool textile auxiliaries servicing all major topmakers and yarn manufacturers in China. It has also developed a strong export business supplying companies in Europe, the Middle East and the USA. All detergents produced by Dallas comply with European standards and are Intertek Ecological Environmental Protection Certified. Its main products are used for scouring and carbonising, combing and topmaking, spinning
42 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
and weaving, and dyeing and finishing. A wide range of processing agents include degreasing detergents, wool lubricant oil, carding oil, antistatic agent, penetrating agent, and softening agents. ‘We understand that wool washing methods are important to the scouring process. Our X100 series of detergents perform well and are fully bio-degradable and eco-friendly for all stages of scouring, topmaking and yarn production’.
wool & yarn treatment
Wool detergent X100 and X100-Y uses high grade plant-based ingredients. In the woollen industry it is used as a raw wool detergent, wool carbonization auxiliary, and a wool dyeing detergent. After use residual wool grease is stabilized, greyness is reduced, the natural whiteness is shown, and the fibre unknots and becomes softer. There is greater grease recovery, and a higher production rate. It is environmentally safe, and does not contain APEO, formaldehyde, or phosphoric acid. It is effective in emulsification while degreasing and washing, it is non-alkaline. It does not break down the protein fibre in the wool, or corrode machinery. It is suitable for all kinds of wool scouring and is particularly good in colder climates’, comments Mr Zhu. Wool Detergent X100 and X100-Y series is especially suitable for high quality Australian wool scouring because of its degreasing ability and outstanding after effect on the appearance and feel of the wool. ‘It is very cost effect and economical’. Dalis anti-static agents inhibit and eliminate static electricity combing, top making, spinning dyeing and finishing of wool or blended wool, and is also suitable for synthetics, silk, and cashmere. Products include the following series: wool anti-static DK-1; synthetic fiber anti-static agent DK-101; chemical fiber anti-static DK-220; and anti-static DK-103/DK-104/ DK-109.
The company supplies carding oil and according to Mr Zhu it increases the lubricity, protects wool fibre, improves spinnibility, and increases yield. Its DH-1 and DH-C is for wool blending, combing, topmaking, and spinning. Its DH-550 and DH-601 is used in worsted and semi-worsted spinning. Its dyeing and finishing detergent series include DX-1/DX-1N, de-oiling DX-2, wool detergent DX-3, penetrating agent DS, and softening agent M23. These provide excellent performance and thoroughly de-oiling. After treatment fiber is fluffy, feels good to the touch, with good whiteness and luster. For more information please contact: Penny Zhang at PennyZhang@dalischina.com Tel 0086 15921013302. 2017 wool2yarn global published an article entitled ‘Ruyi-from wool to fashion’. The article mistakenly stated that Ruyi has acquired UK retail company Scabal. This is incorrect and we apologise for this error. wool2yarnglobal 2018
wool & yarn treatment
Shrinkproofing that works
onsumers of today favour products that are made from natural fibres, with an emphasis on animal welfare, worker wellbeing, and respect for the environment. But they also demand performance. Clothing, bedding products, and upholstery are all expected to deliver much more than before. For that, wool fibre must be treated. There are a number of new shrinkproof treatments that have come on to the market lately but the jury is still
out regarding the level of success. Albert Chippendale of Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB) UK comments that ‘while there are a number of different shrinkproof treatments our treatment works, and our customers agree. It out-performs other shrink proofing techniques. The chlorine we use is less than that found in drinking water.’ ‘Our treatment can be used on large quantities and diverse range of wool types. Demand by
Albert Chippendale (left) and his son Lewis Chippendale at SPB plant in Bradford
44 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
SHRINK RESISTANT WOOL PROCESSING consumers for their clothes to look new and maintain their shape after repeated washing and drying is growing. The wool we process for sweaters meet specifications that enable each finished garment to go through a washing cycle some 50 times without any shrinkage occurring and are suitable for tumble drying’, he says. SPB is a commission wool processor and is not aligned or linked to any wool company. It is privately owned and totally independent, processing quantities both big and small, from 500kg to 100 tonnes. It also processes wool for a number of bedding product manufacturers that carry the Green Label. (Refer SPB article in Bedding Report). ‘As a commission scourer we look after our clients’ consignment from start to finish’, says Albert Chippendale. Traditional markets for SPB products in knitwear include the UK, Western Europe, Scandinavia and North America. SPB also supplies customers in Japan and South Korea. ‘Consumers in these markets are very demanding when it comes to performance and we have been supplying to these markets for over 30 years now’. ‘We treat wool for hand knitting as well as for high performance apparel such as ski wear. Hand knitting has enjoyed something of a resurgence in America and this is an area of wool treatment that we are expert in, shrink proofing and getting rid of the itch factor.’ SPB treatment complies with The Total Easy Care (TEC) process. It is Woolmark Accredited and operates to ISO 9001 quality standards. It is registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK and can offer natural products that are environmentally friendly, with OEKO TEX certification. ‘We believe that at present we offer the best option for a quality machine washable product- across all microns. Our process out-performs the new technologies in terms of machine washable and tumble dry performance’. I am yet to be convinced that our treatment method can be superseded. However this does not stop us from looking to the future, and we continue to trial new treatments’. For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at firstname.lastname@example.org wool2yarnglobal 2018
STANDARDS SET TO TIGHTEN
Complying with environmental regulations has never been easy for the dyeing industry. Due to the toxicity of many dyes and chemicals and the inappropriate discharge of waste has led to a number of governments, including the European Union to introduce new stringent regulatory measures in relation to the use of dyes in yarn and textiles
by Victor Chesky
46 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
s early as 2003 EU introduced a restriction in the use of harmful chemicals in textiles and this year even tougher restrictions will apply. According to some reports the textile industry is the second biggest global polluter of water after agriculture. This is mostly due to the enormous number of garments thrown away at the end of each fashion season, and these are mostly synthetic. According to a report in The Economist, the volume of clothing Americans threw away in 2013 totalled 11.1 million tons. The wool industry represents such an insignificant percentage of this figure and as wool is a fully biodegradable fibre so it is logical to conclude that using on environmentally friendly dyes will benefit the perception of the wool industry as completely fully biodegradable eco-fibre. A further impetus to banning harmful chemicals is concern for worker welfare and safety. People working at these factories are no longer exposed to hazardous chemicals. Fully automated dyeing systems are now widely used by major European and Chinese wool processors and yarn and fabric manufacturers. Lawer automatic dispensing systems in Italy installs fully automatic dye works, enabling dyeing to be carried out 24 hours a day, with no lights, and without workers being present. This full automation ensures worker safety, guaranteeing a notable saving in time and energy, and also offering improved precision. Most wool producing companies in Europe have stopped the use of chrome dyeing in their production. Companies in China are also following suit as environmental restrictions are now being vigorously enforced. ‘While some may believe that in China we still regards environmental protection laws too lightly that is not the case’, says Mr Zhu Jiankun, Director of Jiaxing Mount Chemical Co (Dalis) in Zhejiang China, a large supplier of wool textile auxiliaries to wool processors and yarn
manufacturers in China. ‘Today enforcement of environmental protection laws is extremely stringent in China’. ‘The majority of our customers in China today demand green and eco chemical products. All of our detergents have Intertek Ecological Environmental Protection Certification. Many of our customers export tops, yarn, and fabric to Europe and environmental certification is essential’, he says. Südwolle Group, producer of worsted wool yarns, has also taken this major step and has phased out the use of chrome dyes in all its production sites worldwide. ‘Although chrome dyeing is not banned, we – along with many brands and retailers wish to distance ourselves from its use’, says Stéphane Thouvay, Managing Director Product Management & Innovation at Südwolle Group. But it is not as simple as switching one dye to another. The retail industry has been accustomed to specific colours and some of these cannot be easily achieved. Dyeing processes at yarn and fabric stage have followed the same set processes for decades and change is costly and disruptive. ‘It has been a long and technically demanding process to achieve this phase-out’, explains Thouvay, ‘the technical challenge was to match the existing shades as accurately as possible, taking care of metamerism, fibre coverage, and fastness performance.’ After all, avoiding after-chrome dyeing helps to reduce AOX (Adsorbable Organic Halides) in waste water which is in line with the requirements of Greenpeace’s Detox by 2020 campaign. The German yarn producer, that is constantly questioning and improving its environmental performance, operates dyehouses in Germany, China, and Italy and is committed to work towards achieving Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) requirements. Its bluesign® certification is integral to this commitment and the wool2yarnglobal 2018
came together to consider how we can best move forward together. As sustainabilityoriented suppliers to the textile industry, we agreed to work towards greater harmonization of an industry standard. This would let us set achievable limits based on industry best practice and thus accelerate implementation and avoid complexity and confusion for mills and their suppliers. It would also be the most cost-effective approach, saving mills and brands time and money. As a group, we also agreed that our industry already has a suitable sustainability standard and the necessary platform for progress in the bluesign® system and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation.
spinner is getting very positive results from customer audits. However, requirements are getting more and more complex for all those affected along the supply chain. Almost every organisation or customer has its own Restricted Substances Lists (RSL) and audit systems. ‘We are literally overwhelmed by these different standards, which we have to check and adapt‘, says Thouvay. ‘One unique standard valid for all partners within the supply chain would save time and capacities for all parties involved. This is perhaps a dream, but we have to reduce complexity in this field!’ As wool in sport garments and next-to-skin products continues to grow environmentally friendly dyes are a necessary aspect of the positive characteristics to these garments. The reaction of hazardous chemicals to skin, and the enthusiasm that this consumer has with environmental standards make it essential that the wool industry embrace eco-friendly dyeing practices. In a recent statement Rohit Aggarwal, President, Huntsman Textile Effects comments that ‘the textile and apparel industry has proven that we are committed to creating a cleaner supply chain. Huntsman Textile Effects and other leading dyes and chemicals companies have made much progress in recent years by emphasizing manufacturing process innovation, product stewardship and quality management. However, we also recognize that the proliferation of sustainability standards and approaches today is creating complexity, duplication and misunderstanding and ultimately hindering the industry goal of eliminating hazardous chemicals from the supply chain. ‘Recently, many of the leading dyes and textile chemicals companies 48 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘This agreement is a major show of unity and a great step forward for our industry. Textile Effects backs it because we believe strongly in input stream management – using dyes and chemical products that are free of restricted substances to ensure outputs remain within acceptable limits. A key benefit of this approach to harmonization is that it leaves room for differentiation. With a harmonized industry standard, brands could free up resources to focus on sustainability and market growth in tandem. ‘Ours is a very complex and global industry. If we are to accelerate the transition to greener products and cleaner supply chains, we need to cooperate to simplify chemical management and product stewardship and unify disparate standards’, Rohit Aggarwal concludes. Wool can be processed completely free of harmful chemicals, this great advantage over synthetic fibre and fabric is unrivalled. It provides a great opportunity for the wool textile industry to promote itself to the world, and let the buyer at retail better understand the negative impact that clothing made from synthetic fibers that leach microplastics into our waterways and oceans have on the environment.
...Since 1970 the Italian Quality for the true Accuracy...
Automatic dosing systems / powder dosing and dispensing / liquid dosing and dispensing / laboratory dosing and dispensing
ACCURACY REPEATABILITY TRACEABILITY
«We provide solutions and services to increase reliabilty, safety and efﬁciency of production» «At the basis of our culture is the attitude to put customers at the center of our thinking and acting»
LAWER S.p.A - COSSATO (Biella) . Italy - email@example.com
DISPENSING SYSTEMS FOR DYEING ACCURACY
ccuracy, colour consistency, and safety are three main factors in quality dyeing for fibre, yarn and fabric. Lawer manufactures automatic dosing and dispensing machinery and is a leading supplier to dyeing houses around the world. It provides solutions and services for powder and liquid dyes with consistency and safety. Based in Italy the company has serviced textile manufacturers around the world for more than 50 years. It has representatives in Turkey, China, Brazil, and the UK for after sales service, as well as more than 50 agents around the world. ‘There are a number of reasons why our Dye Dispensing Systems are used by major textile houses globally’, he comments. ‘Working with
50 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
dyes can be a dangerous process, where dye inhalation is a real danger to workers. When fewer people are involved in the process it is safer. Our semi-automatic options allow for some staff input, whereas fully automatic options require no staff at all’, says Mr Filippo Lanaro, Managing Director at Lawer in Biella Italy. ‘European processors have been using our fully automatic systems for many years, complying with safety regulations and saving in labour costs. ‘Today wool and speciality fibres are expensive, and making mistakes in the dye process is costly. Our systems are so accurate that they eliminate mistakes and ensure consistency of colour from one batch to the next’, he says. Lawer technical staff assist customers to select
dissolving, and dispensing powder dyes. It employs robotic bucket handling, automatic dispensing into dyeing machines, automatic bucket rinsing and dyeing, and an isolated working area for perfect environmental and safety conditions. This system can service a large number of dyeing machines with maximum efficiency, and eliminate pollution risks achieved through the use of special valves and joints. The SILOS-DOS is an automatic bulk powder and chemical weighing, dissolving and dispensing system. The system can be supplied Lawer fully automatic system
with different size storage silos and can be installed indoors or outdoors.
the right equipment for their process. It offers design support, commissioning, staff training, and after sales service. All systems are modular and can be bought separately, according to customer requirement, and the level of automation needed.
The DOS-CHEM is for dosing and dispensing
SUPERCOLOR is a fully automatic weighing system allowing safe and clean recipe preparation with total control. An efficient suction/filtering device guarantees the maximum safety of use and a clean working environment. It provides accuracy, repeatability, and traceability. It operates using dedicated Lawer Software.
arm for bottler handling and monopipette
The fully automatic DYEMATIC system ensures a high level of automation, flexibility, and maximum efficiency in weighing, handling,
For more information about these systems
liquid dyes and is fast and is equiped with a high-resolution magnetic inductive flow meter to ensure accurate dispensing. The TD-LAB employs a high speed robotized placement, rinsing, and drying. It dispenses into laboratory beakers or directly into sample or production machines. It can receive powdered dye for the solution by a manual or automatic weighing dissolving system designed by Lawer.
please contact Filippo Lanaro at firstname.lastname@example.org wool2yarnglobal 2018
Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company
yarn & fabric
Look at us now
Water Repellent Fabric (OPTIM) - a number of global brands are using it in their production, including Norwegian sports brand Devold and Swedish brand RÖJK Superwear. This fabric has received ISPO Awards at the sports and outdoor trade show in Germany
52 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
echnology that allows garments to look good and feel better promote the positive aspects of woollen products, and therefore increases consumer demand. For some time AWI / The Woolmark Company and its partners have been developing a number of Merino wool innovations, making Merino wool a great choice for all those involved in the production process for outdoor, leisure and sportswear, the transportation industry, shoes, and health and wellbeing products.
for its Reda Active Fabric has been taking advantage of the explosive growth in demand for sportswear and activewear. ‘Thanks to The Woolmark Company and the work they have done to promote wool content in a variety of applications including ski boots, running shoes, waterproof coats, and more, consumers are now enjoying a greater variety of woollen products’, says Ercole Botto at Reda in Italy. ‘Our woollen fabric ticks all the boxes in crease resistance and antiodour properties.
Reda is a well known fabric manufacturer in Italy and famous
The Woolmark Company has been working closely with leading knitting
yarn & fabric
machine manufacturers - such as Shima Seiki, STOLL and Santoni to develop technically advanced yarns to be integrated into the upper, inner and liner of a range of machine washable footwear. Using woollen yarn in 3D knitting, the entire upper can be free of cutting and sewing. Comfortable for wearing next to skin by using a 100 per cent Merino wool yarn as an inner surface layer, the latest spinning technology helps to knit the fabric onto the outer face of the shoes’ upper, enhancing the abrasion resistance. Post exercise muscle recovery can also be improved by using a combination of Far Infrared (FIR) material with wool. In its latest move Reda, together with All Birds a USA based shoe manufacturer has developed a shoe that is machine washable, and can be worn without socks. Reda supplies fabric made from 17.5 µm Australian Merino that achieves a sustainable, comfortable shoe that draws away moisture, regulates temperature, and minimizes odour. All Birds is owned by New Zealander Tim Brown who has set up in Silicon Valley and is now selling $60 million worth of these shoes every year. The fabric we supply to All Birds is environmentally certified and fully traceable. Customers who buy these shoes regard this as a very important part of their purchase’, says Ercole Botto.
Techmerino - Wash & Go. Lightweight, extremely soft, high-performance fabric of pure Merino wool, for easy movement
Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company
A completely innovative textile breakthrough, somewhat different from footwear comes from Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna. The Trofeo Wool Denim is the first True Wool Denim. A “Made in Trivero” unique denim, entirely made using Zegna Trofeo Wool, has been achieved through an exclusive fabric innovation in wool indigo dyeing. Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna has used a process that enables to keep all the properties of a traditional denim, maintaining the richness, warmth and soft-hand of the iconic Trofeo Wool. This project combines the tailored approach to a traditional fabric creating a hybrid between the casual denim and the more formal approach to pure Trofeo Wool.
The BMW full electric i3 is the most environmental car with up to 95% of material used recylable. It uses a 40% WV (26 – 28 mic.) + 60% PES for its interior seating. The wool blend is breathable, helping to regulate the temperature between the seat cover and the occupant. As a result, the seats remain pleasantly cool, even on hot days
Ermenegildo Zegna has also created Techmerino - a functional textiles for Wash & Go. The result is a fabric that is highly breathable, facilitating evaporation of watery vapor and provides perfect thermo-regulation against both cold and heat, keeping the skin dry and the body temperature constant. It is wool2yarnglobal 2018
Photo courtesy of The Woolmark Company
yarn & fabric
Neulana Double is soft to touch and is suitable for next to skin. This fabric appears to be bonded, but is actually woven, eliminating the need for any synthetics, glue, membrane or lining, and is suitable for highend casual jackets.
treated with special finishing techniques to ensure maximum comfort even in dynamic situations where the fit has to facilitate the utmost movement of the body. It is designed for contemporary life either for work and leisure and our customers wear it even when doing sports or just relaxing. And in this vein of innovation Tollegno 1900 has created its own technical yarns with exceptional performance attributes, enhancing its version of ‘Contemporary Tradition’. Its 3D WOOL® fabric, made from elastic, mono or bistretch yarns, guarantees excellent wearability and the manufacture of elegant, highperformance clothing. This fabric uses 99% wool (17µ), 1% lycra providing high elasticity of up to 18% to guarantee a perfect fit, and is presented in both mono and bi-stretch. New production methods and uses are gaining traction in the expanding technical textiles market as air, sea, and land vehicles increasingly acknowledge their superior properties. The lightweight, durable, and comfortable properties of woollen fibre are becoming important factors in aviation and 54 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
transport. More comfortable and lighter than leather, wool is an attractive option for designers and engineers in interior fit-outs. Add on wool’s flame resistant, low vapour and eco friendly properties make it a better choice for the automation industry. Yarns developed for upholstering the seats in the aviation industry are lighter than leather or other fabrics contributing to lighter aircraft, significantly reducing fuel use during flight. And yes, the luxury car market is also embracing wool fabric for its interiors. Wool is now seen as a preferred interior fibre in this luxury car market. The new 2018 Range Rover Velar is promoting its wool interior as superior to leather. The interior of the Queen of England’s Bentley State Limousine is also covered in wool. Südwolle Group offers a range of technical yarns. ‘With our Stöhr range we have created bespoke yarns for technical end-uses that are flame resistant and well suited to use in aviation and land and sea vehicles.’ says HansGeorg von Schuh Managing Director Sales Südwolle Group.
‘The wool industry is more niche than ever before. Niche markets have different rules than mass markets and we should all appreciate our valuable material which is not comparable to cheap synthetic fibers or cotton‘. Schoeller the Spinning Group’s Travel Tex yarns are optimised for seating covers in buses, trains and ships. ‘The excellent seating comfort excels with its attractive feel, thermo regulation and good humidity management. Advantages like abrasion resistance, low flammability, color fastness to light and flame retardancy can be achieved where required’, says Kurt Hasselwander company CEO. Technical textiles are being used in the highlyspecialized aerospace industry. Lightweight, durable, and comfortable properties are an important topic in product design across several industries and the concept has been most important in aviation and transport. New production methods and uses are gaining traction in the expanding technical textiles market as air, sea, and land vehicles increasingly acknowledge their superior properties. Yarns developed for upholstering the seats in the aviation industry are lighter than leather or other fabrics contributing to lighter aircraft, significantly reducing fuel use during flight. The Woolmark Company has also partnered with one of China’s leading woollen textile enterprises, The Nanshan Group, to develop a 100% wool fabric that protects the wearer from the elements. The result is a unique, highperformance fabric, resistant to wind and water, making it suitable for outdoor wear and sports. The fabric is constructed at very high levels of thread density in warp and weft using fine Merino wool yarns that have been stretched, but not set, during OptimTM processing.
The Woolmark Company and The Nanshan Group have also developed Neulana Double fabric. This innovative double-weave 100% wool fabric has two very different surfaces. The Optim™ technology eliminates the need for any membrane or glues. One face is smooth like a traditional outer-shell, while the other side is soft, lofty and brushed. This innovative double weave fabric provides maximum insulation and minimising fabric weight and retaining all Merino wool’s natural properties such as breathability and moisture management. wool2yarnglobal 2018 SUE_18_788-anzeige-wool-to-yarn-18-28-06_180730a_rz.indd 2
yarn & fabric
WALKING IN WOOL W
ool shoes are on trend. They are the current choice for those eager to wear something comfortable, natural and extremely light and cool, while still looking stylish.
56 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘Your feet take you everywhere – that is why they deserve the best!’, says Stéphane Thouvay, Managing Director Product Management & Innovation at Südwolle Group. ‘We have created a number of innovative yarns for shoe manufacturers. As a yarn spinner we see wool as the best natural fibre, not only for garments, but also for
every kind of shoe, no matter the occasion, the use or the style required.’ As well as being as light and comfortable as your grandmothers felt slippers, wool shoes are entering the world of fashion sneakers, with endless possibilities in terms of look, colour and construction. ‘Wool as material is not only light and comfortable, it’s just perfect for footwear as it’s odour-resistant, breathable and thermoregulating. In addition, wool is biodegradable, renewable and therefore a sustainable alternative to man-made fibres, especially considering the current discussion about pollution through micro plastics. That is why we decided to support this wool shoe revolution, aimed at producing shoes that use
worsted yarns, made of wool or wool blends, in a flexible and innovative way. Südwolle Group offers a wide range of yarn suitable for shoes from our production sites in Bulgaria, Poland, Romania and China.’ Innovation by its very nature keeps moving forward and Südwolle Group is now taking a further step and has partnered with some of the most experienced and passionate shoe manufacturers for circular, flat knitting and fully fashion technologies. Südwolle Group and these manufacturers see wool as a great material to create 3D sock-shoes that combine the natural properties of wool, providing comfort, softness and durability, with style and fashion. Südwolle Group has also partnered with fibre producers to provide wool shoes with a better structure and shape. Selected natural or man-made raw materials, blended with their yarns, guarantee interesting functionalities both for everyday shoes and shoes for special activities.
If you wear a Merino shoe once – you will never wear anything else!
Yarn developed by Südwolle Group for use in shoes includes MARIN GRIL Nm 28/2 (wool 66%, nylon 7%, melting filament 27%). The thermofusible nylon inside this yarn enables the structure of the shoe upper to fit perfectly. Südwolle Group also uses LEONORA Nm 30/2 (Merino wool TEC 100%), and JAWALAN Nm 28/2 (wool 100%). Its CORD-WOOL Stretch Nm 38/2 (wool 58%, Cordura® 38%, Lycra®4%) has high tenacity that enhances the yarn’s abrasion resistance, providing greater shoe durability. Other products used by Südwolle Group for fabric in shoes include PALI Nm 30/2 (wool 45%,Trevira® polyester 55%) – Trevira® polyester with climate effect, blended with wool it transports moisture away from the feet, keeping them warm and dry – WOOLMAX Nm 30/2 (wool 45%, Coolmax® 55%) and WALLABY Nm 60/1 Betaspun (87% wool, TEC 13% nylon filament). The company’s Betaspun technology works with fine nylon filament, twisted around Merino yarn. The small proportion of filament fibre provides the yarn with a significant boost in strength, creating extra abrasion resistance, yet it is still fine enough for use in lightweight applications. wool2yarnglobal 2018 SUE_18_788-anzeige-wool-to-yarn-18-28-06_180730a_rz.indd 1
yarn & fabric
Perfection from Trivero
by Victor Chesky
rmenegildo Zegna produces the most expensive fabrics and suits in the world. So what is behind this most luxury and prized brand? I was treated to a day at the Ermenegildo Zegna Trivero mill in the heart of Italyâ€™s fashion and wool textile hub where I saw first-hand where it all began back in 1910. This exclusive and luxury brand is the result of over one hundred years of experience and innovation. History and tradition still play a big part in the production process at Ermenegildo Zegna, as does constant creativity and innovation. The mill at Trivero has an annual production output of 2.5 million metres and represents between 6 - 8% of the total turnover of the Group. 80% of the wool used is fleece. Production is divided into equal thirds. One
58 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
third of fabric production is for Ermenegildo Zegna brand, one third goes to selected tailors, and one third to other brands. There are three main elements that play important part in maintaining the worldsâ€™ best brand - â€˜design, innovation, and incredible care. Ermenegildo Zegna personnel at the mill employ the best care and best experience in creating our fabric and that allows them to stay one step ahead. The mill in Trivero employs around 500 people and quality control is applied before and after finishing. It still operates an internal school teaching its staff to check the fabric before dispatch. Everything is touched and looked at by real people with real expertise, as well as sophisticated technical data control.
yarn & fabric
All processes from fibre to fabric, and finished product to shop, are handled in one place here in Trivero Italy. It starts with quality fibre. The company source wool from Australia, and mohair from South Africa. They make their purchases annually, for the year ahead, to insure it is of a consistent fibre quality. The company’s creative teams work on colours and patterns that readily catch the eye work side by side with laboratory technicians to get the maximum out of the raw materials used,
to ensure ongoing product innovation, and continuously new performance. One of the first things that stood out most clearly at Trivero was the speed of the machinery for yarn and fabric. Speed is not the focus here - it is quality not quantity that takes precedence in everything that is done in Trivero. The company invests a considerable amount into R&D every year, bringing together the best technology with the best people. Ermenegildo Zegna was the first company to produce cashmere silk, and silk denim, to the luxury market in 2004. It constantly works to create intelligent interpretations using these fibres. At Pitti Uomo 2018 Ermenegildo Zegna showcased it wool-rich TECHMERINO™ SS18 collection in collaboration with AWI.
Fabric is touched and looked at by real people with real expertise
Techmerino Wash & Go
The TECHMERINO™ project is the synthesis of the best attributes of merino wool and the most sophisticated wool processing and finishing techniques. This is one of the most successful projects for the Group in recent times. TECHMERINO™ introduces a new way to enhance the versatile characteristics in 17.5 micron Merino wool. The result is a fabric that breathes, adapts to temperature, and is quick drying and easycare. Innovation in TECHMERINO™ tailoring has debuted its TECHMERINO™ WASH & GO suiting, which is domestically machine washable while maintaining the same performance with a natural casual fit. Ermenegildo Zegna is still inspired by its original designs, and reputation for elegance, and enduring focus on quality. It takes 500 hands to make a suit from farm to hanger. Each new collection is different and innovative, and quality always features. Technical fabrics also incorporate wool use into some of the Group’s accessory items including sports shoes, hats, and scarves. wool2yarnglobal 2018
yarn & fabric
IT FEELS BETTER WITH WOOL By Victor Chesky
Kurt Haselwander, CEO at Schoeller the Spinning Group
oday 50% of Schoeller the Spinning Group‘s yarn is processed using its own EXP, chlorine free treatment. The company intends that percent to increase each year. Schoeller the Spinning Group is a global supplier of yarns with a particular focus on worsted yarn. I ask Kurt Haselwander, CEO at Schoeller the Spinning Group what yarn types are in demand and where are the trends heading? ‘There are three main components currently driving strong demand for wool’, says Kurt Haselwander. These are the automotive and transportation industry,next-to-skin clothing, and knitting sector. ‘The automotive and transportation industry is turning to wool as never before. Natural fibres, and particularly wool, it says, is ticking all the boxes. It is Eco friendly, light weight, and naturally fire resistant. We believe that the demand for wool by this industry will continue to grow. Wool is where it’s at, it looks better, it feels better, and it is better’, he says. ‘Our technical yarn is used in fabric for major European cars including BMW and Mercedes, and in public buses and trains, and airlines are seriously looking at using woollen fabric in their first class cabins for long-haul flights’. The rapidly increasing next-to-skin clothing sector continues to inspire 60 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
manufacturers to develop new products using wool. ‘At Schoeller the Spinning Group we are creating functional yarn sportswear using 16.5 to 17 µm wool. Wool has properties suitable to these types of garments. They create comfort, and eco friendly credentials’, he says. ‘Demand for this type of yarn is growing rapidly in particular when it is offered when our EXP treatment is used. This of course allows garments to be washed multiple times and it is ideal for sports gear. ‘We receive the biggest demand for our ‘Active’ functional yarn. It is excellent for seamless use, using 80% superfine Merino that is machine washable chlorine free EXP, with 20% polymide. It feels dry even when 30% saturated, keeps the wearer warm even when wet, and is odur-retardant’, says Kurt Haselwander. ‘It is the most natural and functional of fibres, and no man-made fibre can match it for functional benefits, and it comes with Blue Sign certification’.
yarn & fabric
Manufacturers looking for yarn suitable for function and fashion should be interested in Schoeller new SUPER SOFT MERINO 16,5μ. It is available as a stock serviceas 16,5 μ super fine Merino. It is machine washable by EXP and is available as Nm 52/1 and 52/2.Superfine merino woolis comfortable to wear, without scratching, an extremely pleasant grip. It is the perfect material for seamless functional shirts and underwear. ‘The knitting industry is also using much more wool. The leading brands used more wool in this season’s collections than previously.’CLIMAYARN® is a mixture of MERINO WOOL and POLYCOLON. This functional yarn works well as a temperature regulator. The fabric dries quickly, is machinewashable, and is suitable for winter sportswear and leisure wear.60% extra fine Merino Wool (machine-washable), 40% Polypropylene Nm 56/1 Nm 85/1. ‘Active‘ seamless functional yarn
‘During our manufacturing process we focus on ease of care and skin-friendly properties.
As a result, we have found that sustainably produced textiles and materials are highly popular‘, says Kurt Haselwander. Innovation is a clear focus in the strategic orientation of Schoeller the Spinning Group. More than 15% of employees work in research, development, and design. The company yarns with G.O.T.S certification and was the first worsted yarn spinning mill to be awarded the comprehensive ‘bluesign’ label. ‘Our ecological guidelines are adhered to along the complete production and procurement chain.’ ‘The process of developing a very specific yarn for a very specific application requires the entire chain to work together - from sourcing the most appropriate wool to the technical design and yarn manufacturer and the final garment production company’, he says. ‘A well thought out process, expertise and collaboration from fibre to garment will result in a perfect combination of fashion and function’.
SUPER SOFT MERINO 16,5μ - comfort, fashion and function
yarn & fabric
For the contemporary man
n the world of wool processing, yarn and fabric, and tailoring Biella has an unsurpassed reputation as the capital of cloth. This region is the home to some of the most iconic names in fabric and suiting. Vitale Barberis Canonico is one such company in this exclusive club. It has been making fabric since 1663. For more than 350 years all phases of its production have been carried out in its historical building in Pratrivero in Italy, where the best water continues to flow from Alpine beginnings, into the Biellese region. It continues the proud tradition in excellence and the Made in Italy label that remains unassailable - combining history with the contemporary man. Today the mill is one of the best known manufacturers of luxury fabric 62 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
by Victor Chesky
in the world. It exports 80% of its production to 90 countries through more than 40 agents worldwide, with a turnover of â‚Ź163million each year and employing 455 skilled workers. As I walked through this historical mill with Valentina Berti from the communication team at Vitale Barberis Canonico I couldnâ€™t help but be awed when told that kings and queens have been dressed in fabric from this very place. But to be successful today requires more than just the support of history. A dedication to quality, understanding current market conditions, and innovation in developing products to meet these trends is essential. Using the best wools in the world, including the highly-prized Australian Saxon Merinos Vitale Barberis
yarn & fabric
Design records and fabric samples collated and stored for 100s of years - and still referred to by VBC designers for inspiration today
Earth, Windand Fire Range
Canonico mill processes around 4 million kg of greasy wool with an average diameter of only 17.5 microns each year.
beside the purification basins where goldfish and Koi carp are kept, thereby considerably reducing the impact on the environment.
Vitale Barberis Canonico continues to draws on knowledge gleaned from its history but using highly innovative machinery and technology.It was the first company to equip its looms with soundproofing systems, which were designed, built and installed by the company, improving its working environment.It invests 10% of its turnover in research and development and was one of the first European companies to go to China in the 1970s.
Continual research and development for technological innovation, study, planning and implementation of new production plant solutions, automation to increase capacity, uniformity and production quality for its processes has led to the Vitale Barberis Canonicoâ€™s new Earth, Wind and Fire range, dedicated to the world of functional fabrics, where the wool is combined with technical materials that enhance the performance without compromising the enjoyment of the natural fiber.
It was also one of the first companies to install a fully automatic dye works, enabling dyeing to be carried out 24 hours a day, with no lights, and without workers being present. This full automation ensures worker safety, guaranteeing a notable saving in time and energy, and also offering improved precision. A new advancement in its production has also focused on environmental improvements and considerations. Its ultra-filtration membrane bioreactor (MBR) uses only 39 litres of water per metre of fabric produced on average. This is approximately 20% more efficient than other manufactures, saving more than 750,000 litres of water daily. All water used in production is treated and is fed back into the Rio delle Molle, which flows alongside the factory, and into the lake
This range has been designed for outdoor leaders capable of challenging the most adverse weather conditions without sacrificing the innate elegance, using some of the most classic fabrics of combed wool as flannel, flannel carded, and combed perennial. Wool and mohair are combined with high-performance technical fabrics for a perfect balance that combines comfort, performance and technological innovation. The Spring/Summer 2019 collection of Vitale Barberis Canonico fabrics focuses on greater movement, whether for pleasure or for business, to travel more quickly and more often, and confronting different environments and climates. wool2yarnglobal 2018
yarn & fabric
Hot Jointair on the warping creel
Hot Jointair 4983B - Two For One twisting machine
Hot Jointair for knotless joining of wool yarns ‘When yarn breaks there are only two options: tie a knot or splice it knotless’, says Mesdan’s sales director Dejan Lalevic. ‘Our Mesdan splicer retrofitting solutions aim to improve production efficiency, increase yarn quality, and splice consistency. We also aim to optimise yarn clearing performance, extend machine lifetime, widen machine versatility, and reduce maintenance costs’, he says. Mesdan is an Italian company that has invested significant resources into research and development in the most advanced technology in splicers for knot free yarns. ‘Our wide range of splicers, in both hand-operated and automatic versions are capable of joining yarn which may differ in fibre nature, spinning method, count, or twist.’ The Hot Jointair are installed on all machines downstream single yarn winding such 64 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
as assembly winding, twisting, warping, and knitting. The final goal is to produce a knot free fabric’, he says. ‘Hot air as a splicing medium in combination with two complementary splicing blasts enables superior quality joints on long staple yarn’. The Hot Jointair is available in two models; one for fine worsted counts, and the other for woollen and fancy yarns. It is available as an automatic version, fitted on Savio automatic winders, or in the hand-operated version fitted on a special A.T.S. rail system (Air Track Supply). Most Italian textile manufacturers use our splicer technology’, Dejan Lalevic. ‘Such companies are focused on precise standards and quality in their customised spinning weaving, knitting, and finishing operations is essential.
yarn & fabric
Have you ever seen sheep sweat?
ool in textiles for the transport industry is not new. What is new, however, is the potential scale for its greater use in this industry. Today, technical improvements in wool processing have advanced fibre quality, enabling properties given by nature to be used to greater advantage. All sectors of the transport industry including cars, buses and trains, aviation, and cruise ships are already using wool and are predicting their usage will increase in the near future. ‘Wool’s greatest advantage is that it does not pollute our environment’, says Ms. Bettina Christensen, Director Technical Yarns at Südwolle Group. ‘Wool fibre is completely biodegradable – an essential advantage in the current discussion about micro-plastics pollution.’ There are a number of reasons why wool is suitable for the transportation sector. Wool fibre is highly technical: it is antistatic and produces virtually no VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) emissions. It is also highly durable, and all these qualities make it a perfect fibre for the transport industry. ‘Have you ever seen a sheep sweat? Wool naturally keeps sheep warm in winter and cools them in summer. It acts as an air conditioning system. Have you ever touched the skin of a sheep in rain? Its skin remains dry. Wool is water and dirt repellent’, remarks Bettina Christensen.
the future drive themselves and travel time can be spent in leisure, as you would in your living room, why not make the car’s interior more comfortable with wool? In addition, what about door panels? When wool products are present they support the climate in the car. Wool also supports air quality, keeping moisture at an even level in both summer and winter. Industrial textiles in the hood and trunk of the car could also be made from wool. Perhaps even the body of the car could be made of wool with the support of other fibres – there is no limit to our imagination and innovation. By applying wool everywhere in the car, we can create a sustainable eco-system. When a car is disposed of, every part that is made of wool will degrade, in no time, and without residue. So why not make your car as comfortable and environmentally friendly as your living room?
Südwolle Group’s Stöhr range of technical yarns are individually developed for each customer. They are particularly used in upholstery and for the transportation sector. Stöhr has been providing yarns into these markets for more than 30 years. ‘Our wool yarns are predominantly custom yarns’, says Bettina Christensen, ‘they are specifically built for a customer or function. We carefully select the type of wool that is appropriate for the final product to fit its purpose.’ Aircraft carriers, for example, use Stöhr Nm 28/2 100% wool yarn for their business class seating. Other qualities can be found in interior design features, military, firefighting suits and many other commercial applications. Within the automotive sector, Stöhr’s wool polyester blends (coarse counts such as Nm 22/2) are used for seating by global players in the luxury sector. However, here Bettina Christensen sees a strong tendency towards the increased use of 100% wool yarns. When leather is too hot to sit on in summer and too cold to the touch in winter, wool is a great alternative. While wool carpet in homes has been long preferred to nylon, why not wool carpets in cars? When the cars of
yarn & fabric
Heritage meets performance
earable technology is no longer confined to fitness trackers and embedded buttons and controls for iPods. Today innovations in fabric and design offer retail consumer with product options focused on comfort and functionality without losing sight of style and quality. With this in mind Tollegno 1900 developed its Performance: #24 hour work and leisure technical yarns. This new yarn collection has been created for easy transition from business suiting to sport and leisure garments. (We would also add3D Wool for the fabric part) Tollegno 1900 is one of the largest yarn and fabric manufacturers in Europe and is no new comer in innovation in yarn production.It was one of the first companies to provide special fabric for Alpha Romeo interior fit outs in the 1970s, and in 2007 it supplied a special yarn used for the fabric in the legendary Fiat 500 car.‘We see ourselves as a progressive, reliable, innovative and classic company. Heritage and innovation are our hallmark’, says Lincoln Germanetti, Ceo of Tollegno 1900 spa. ‘We havebeen in business for over 150 years and we see ourselves as both traditional and contemporary’. The company operates yarn and fabric divisions through its plants in Biella Italy and Lodz Poland, employing over 1000 people worldwide. It has a turnover of €170 million per year manufacturing over 4 million kg of yarns and 4.5 million meters of fabric. ‘Until the 1950s wool has been used in many applications but with the development of synthetics wool lost popularly and market share’, comments Lincoln Germanetti. ‘But today wool is back in favour and back in fashion. Next-to-skin products and the auto and aviation, design and furniture industries,
66 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
as well as industrial textile manufacturers are all using an increased wool content in their products. ‘We are developing technical yarns with exceptional performance attributes sort by fast moving expectations in textile manufacturing trends in sport, leisure, business and transport. Our Performance: #24 hour work and leisure technical yarns is a line that enhances the natural properties of Merino (Ultrafine and Extrafine) and cashmere – in pure form and blended with fibers like Tencel, silk, carbon, and silicon nylon. These new qualities are versatile, comfortable, ‘total easy care’ and aesthetically pleasing. The Performance yarns were designed to guarantee all day comfort, thanks to their intrinsic qualities which ensure the best quality of life’. A range of different gauges, spinning methods and treatment combinations complete the Performance qualities. The selection of special wool types for a visible “rough” appearance with refined manufacturing delivers an “agile” look, while being wrinkle resistant with a smooth handle. ‘Our continued search for best performance has led our fabric division to create unique and contemporary fabrics. We use 17 micron wool from Tasmania, famous for its premier-level merino sheep in our 3D WOOL®, our state of the art fabric, a wool (99%)lycra(1%) fabric characterized by high elasticity, presented in both mono and bi-stretch. This extraordinary fabric can reach elasticity up to 18%, in order to guarantee a perfect fit with a performance ideal also for leisure. We have developed a range of 60 different patterns and colours, offering tailors the choice to purchase “ready to make” cuts to
yarn & fabric
fabrics to be enriched by their pairing with a polyurethane membrane, jersey backing made of viscose anti drop finish to resist and protect against rain, wind and high humidity, retaining the pleasure of wearing a cashmere/wool coat. Tollegno 1900 offers a personalized service to customers seeking traceability certification from farm to fabric. Highest levels of animal welfare for wool production are applied.Certificates for non-mulesed wool are available.
create the latest fashions without foregoing the elegance of Made in Italy.’
‘We are committed to maintaining a balance with our environment and we are deeply linked to the land and the people who live here. We produce our energy through a hydroelectric plant and the use of two photovoltaic panels systems. We have made high level investments in technology to minimize power consumption and operate a sewage treatment plant for water purification. Sustainability applies to the entire production chain within our company.
Tollegno 1900 has also developed THE RAINMAKER fabrics, designed for “cross over” products that bridge formal and technical style for jackets and coats for outdoor use. The application of particular technologies enables wool
‘We produce fine yarns and fabrics of high quality – a skilful combination of tradition, technology, and innovation, that is a perfect combination’,concludes Lincoln Germanetti.
Left to right: Clemente Germanetti Managing Director - Giovanni Germanetti Managing Director and CO-CEO Lincoln Germanetti CEO and President
yarn & fabric
Heritage and Innovation
What does it take to manufacture high quality woollen carpet yarns on a global scale? Victor Chesky asked Lawton Yarns Director Peter-Guy L’Amie. ‘Yarn is key to any textile product as it dictates the colour, style and texture of a product and carpet is no exception. As the largest spinner of woollen carpet yarn in the world, we have invested heavily in its stateof-the-art facilities to be able to produce the finest woollen yarns to help flooring manufacturers create beautiful, high quality carpets’, says Peter-Guy L’Amie. Lawton Yarns, based in Dewsbury, West Yorkshire, is part of the Spin 68 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Group, has been spinning woollen yarn for over 100 years. Established in 1902, Lawton Yarns produces bestin-class woollen yarns for the carpet industry. ‘We have stood the test of time thanks to our continual commitment to innovation. Whether it’s investing in new technologies to enhance our production capabilities or developing new textures and shades with wool -
our product development team work closely with our customers to create yarns that meet the needs of local markets.’ A recent survey of 1,000 British homeowners conducted by OnePoll on behalf of Lawton Yarns revealed that carpet remains the floor covering of choice for consumers, with 67% having carpet covering the majority of their homes. For consumers choosing
yarn & fabric
sustainable, natural fibre wool is flame retardant, stain resistant, naturally biodegradable and its coiled spring structure gives it hard wearing bounce and recoverability. Many commercial flooring contracts, particularly for hotels and cruise ships, have extremely strict requirements for fire resistance which is another reason why wool is the ideal carpet choice as it is proven to self-extinguish within seconds. ‘In addition, for highly trafficked areas, the dyes used need to be up to standard to prevent visible wear and fading over time. Our dyehouse team carry out extensive quality and colour matching tests to ensure our dyeing process is always up to standard and that are customers receive a consistent quality yarn.
their preferred type of carpet, wool came to the top of the pile, with 28% of respondents reporting that they would choose a pure wool carpet compared to the 7% who would choose a synthetic. ‘It’s not hard to see why wool has come back into favour with both consumers and commercial flooring manufacturers’, comments PeterGuy L’Amie. ‘As well as being a
‘With the global move towards creating a sustainable ‘circular economy’ (both in the way we work and the products we manufacture) and consumers becoming more eco aware, we’re committed to reducing the environmental impact of our operations. We re-generate heat and energy from the water used during the hank dyeing process. Rather than using energy to take water from the nearby river and heat it up to 100°C we re-use the water which has already been heated saving time, natural resources and energy. The wider Spin Group fuels its manufacturing operations in Europe using green energy, powered by its own on-site biogas plant. ‘Producing around 400 tonnes of yarn per week, we have the capacity to deliver significant volumes for our customers around the world and our
reliability and consistency has kept our customers coming back for more for decades. The increasing use of the latest Axminster and weaving machines globally has led to a rise in demand for high quality yarns. Previously, the machines operated at much slower speeds but the rapid operation of the newer technology puts greater strain on the yarn. A lower quality yarn is more likely to break under the pressure of the new machinery so it’s more important than ever that carpet manufacturers invest in a good quality yarn to prevent any production or quality issues from occurring. There is such a high level of expertise and precision involved in the production of woollen yarn and so little is known about it outside of the industry so we work closely with our customers to help them understand the complexities of creating the highest quality yarns. ‘We have an established track record of supplying the global carpet manufacturing market and have a strong understanding of the export procedures that need to be followed to operate worldwide. With representatives in the United States, Australia, Japan, Europe and many other strategic locations, our worldwide network of local agents allows us to maintain a personal touch with our customers as part of our overseas operations. Whatever carpet type, yarn count, colour and wool-rich composition you’re seeking, we have the R&D and operational capability to craft a product that suits your manufacturing requirements’ concludes Peter-Guy L’Amie. wool2yarnglobal 2018
yarn & fabric
Woollen yarn well spun Changes to the Chinese textile industry continue to ripple throughout the system. Environmental compliance, high wool prices, continued growth in the domestic market, and a constantly changing export market landscape will see larger textile companies getting even bigger and smaller companies struggling to survive.
iangsu Lianhong Textiles company president, Mr Xiaogang Zha comments, ‘both international and domestic markets demand better quality products. The increase in demand for outdoor wear, particularly in sport is strong. We are consistently investing in new innovative yarn production and improving our quality.’ Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles is one of China’s leading producers of cashmere knitting yarn, wool knitting yarn, and knitted garments. The company is based in Zhangjiagang, a port city in the Yangtze Delta and its yarn is exported internationally. ‘Our yarn, in particular our cashmere yarn, is favoured by international brands and accounts for a significant part of our export business,’ he says. ‘Our customers include garment manufacturers and retailers that specialise in products made from natural fibres. Our production mostly uses Australian wool and complies with environmental standards, and health standards required by our international customers.’ 70 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
70% of Jiangsu Lianhong Textiles production is in wool, 30% in other fibre including cashmere. Its main markets outside China are North America 20%, Western Europe 15%, and Northern Europe 15%. It employs over 850 people. ‘Traditionally our production was based on around 21 micron, but recently we have seen demand in finer microns and we are now producing a greater number of products between 17.5 and 19 micron to address this demand. Cashmere fibre is limited in quantity making the yarn produced that much more exclusive.’ The company has an annual production capacity of 3,500 tons of woollen yarn, 1,000 tons of semi-worsted yarn, and 3,000 tons of worsted yarn. Its yarn list includes cashmere yarn, wool yarn, lambswool yarn, silk/cashmere yarn, angora/nylon yarn, viscose/cotton yarn, wool/acrylic yarn, and wool/nylon yarn. These products are exported to all parts of the world. The company is Woolmark and Woolmark Blend licensed and ISO9001:2008 Quality
yarn & fabric
Management System certified. It is also Oeko-Tex Standard 100 accredited and ISO14001:2004 Environment Management System certified. It operates 15 lines from Kyowa and 6 lines from Gaudino in 3 woollen spinning mills. The largest woollen yarn production is based in Jiangsu, with 4 preparation lines from NSC and Sant’Andrea, 20,000-spindle spinning frames from Zinser and 16 winders from Schlafhorst
in its 2 worsted spinning mills, and 134 computerised flat knitting machines from Stoll in its knitting mill. ‘We are well positioned to meet the challenges of the future,’ says Mr Xiaogang Zha. ‘We remain focused on innovation, research and development.’ For more information please contact Heinrich Zhang Email: email@example.com Tel: +86-512-58416016 www.lianhongtex.com wool2yarnglobal 2018
Strong demand for Speciality Fibres â€˜There have been considerable market changes in the last year when it comes to speciality fibre. An increase in demand from both China, the USA, and to some extent Europe, as well, has resulted in price increases, some have doubledâ€™, Luca Alvigini Director of Alpha Tops commented when I spoke with him in Biella earlier this year. The Alpha Tops Group is a major supplier of speciality fibre to the textile industry. Its group of companies manufactures tops inAlpaca, Mohair, Cashmere and Camel hair. In Europe the company has offices in Geneva, Prato, and Biella and is a major supplier of Peruvian alpaca tops. In South Africa it processes mohair through its spinning facility in Port Elizabeth and processes Cashmere at its knitting factory in China. Luca Alvigini
72 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Major brands favour Alpaca fibre in fashion collections Mohair
‘As luxury fibres,alpaca, mohair, and cashmere are in demand for high end garments. The amount of fibre available is small, and production is not increasing, therefore prices are expected to continue to stay at a high level’, says Luca Alvigini. The quantity of speciality fibres exported in 2017 were: Alpaca from Perù 4747T (basis top); Mohair from South Africa 2811T (basis top & noils); and Cashmere from China 3011T (basis dehaired). There is only 6,000,000 kg of Alpaca available in any one year and only 4.000.000 are exported on tops basis, and over 90% of this comes from Peru. Therefore an increase in demand, and supply limited by availability, is the reason for a leap in price. There are a number of reasons that have impacted on the high price for Alpaca. Most of this is due to increased demand from China.
Demand for double sided fabric for the domestic market in China has been very strong. And this has created strong sales for Alpaca tops and fabric. ‘We have been trading with China since 1996 and I have to say we have never seen such strong demand in for Alpaca and Mohair from customers in China’, says Luca Alvigini. In addition, the knitting sector in China has also increase its use of Alpaca. Today China is the biggest importer of alpaca tops in fabric. In the past demand was mostly for Suri Alpaca used for ladies coats. Now demand has shifted to all alpaca types. ‘Double sided fabric does not require Suri Alpaca, and the knitting sector also uses various types of alpaca’, he says. ‘So, we see an increase in demand for all Alpaca types’. In addition, state owned enterprises in China have recently received central government grants to import commodity products from some selected countries, wool2yarnglobal 2018
including Peru. Contracts have been signed for many hundreds of tons of Alpaca tops to be imported into China. ‘It must be said that we believe that state owned enterprises in China may hold considerable amount of stock and this may impact on prices well into 2018/19’. While Alpaca had been out of favour in the past two years the resurgence in demand has also reached Europe and USA. Demand in Italy and Turkey has been particularly strong, putting additional pressure on prices. High end brands have started to put more alpaca in to their collections. ‘No one knows how long this strong demand will continue but the indications are it could be for some time to come’, he says.
Vicuña Vicuña is an even rarer fibre than cashmere. The main grower countries are Peru, Argentina and Bolivia. The clip is taken only once every two years. Around 5/6 tons per year is available and as a consequence it is indeed the most expensive natural fibre available. It has been selling at USD1500.00 per kilo in dehaired form. ‘As such it is a very controlled market and much government documentation(CITES) by grower countries is required before any export is achieved,’ says Mr Alvigini.
Cashmere Cashmere is often referred to as “soft gold” for its costly production process and scarcity. A single Cashmere goat yields only 200g of fine hair – barely enough to knit one sweater. The luxurious feel of Cashmere makes it especially suited for the production of premium-quality garments, even in a world of fast fashion. The global fashion luxury cashmere clothing market is expected to reach US$3,112 billion in 2022. This is an annual growth rate of 3.86% per year between 2017 and 2022 is expected. The international market price for mid-range 74 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
cashmere fibre is about US$100 kg. Europe and USA driven by better economic conditions and people are now willing to spend more. Luxury markets are doing better everywhere, including China. The two leading producers of cashmere, China and Mongolia, face challenges in overstocking, climate change and a drop in quality. However, the lack of interest suffered in the last four years is shifting. ‘Mid last year saw a positive change’, he says. ‘Cashmere is back in fashion and demand is slowly picking up, particularity in the knitting sector that is the biggest user of Cashmere yarn. There are limited supplies of mohair and the drought in South Africa may have impacted on the quantity available. China is using lower microns of Mohair. Demand is very strong in Europe as Mohair is well liked. Long hair fabric fromMohair fibre, creating the ‘hairy’ look, is a current fashion statement increasingly used in teen fashion, as well as in hats, scarves and jackets. Today, mohair is largely produced in South Africa, which presently accounts for over 90% of global production (Cape and Basuto), South African Mohair (Cape Mohair), is regarded as the finest and best quality in the world. The severe drought affecting the Cape region has impacted on Angora goat farmers. It is expected that this will drive availability of Mohair down and therefore pressure on price will continue. The United States of America (Texas), Turkey, Argentina, Lesotho, Australia and New Zealand also produce Mohair, though in smaller quantities. ‘We cannot see prices for Mohair going down as long as the fashion industry continues to favour this fibre and continues to put it into new season Collections.
S U S TAIN ABLE
N ATU RAL FIBRE S AND YARNS
Switzerland South Africa Italy, Biella Italy, Prato China, Cashmere China, Alpaca/Mohair
Alpha Tops SA SAMIL Natural Fibres (Pty) Ltd Alvigini Fibre Nobili s.r.l unipersonale Valerio Meucci Alpha Tops, Beijing Office Noblefibres Imp. & Exp.Co.
+41 22 344 0940 +27 41 486 2430 +39 015 34 444 +39 0574 64 32 40 +86 10 8945 1188 +86 512 5832 7870
+41 22 345 0108 +27 41 486 2665 +39 015 34 447 +39 0574 64 32 42 +86 10 8945 1155 +89 512 5832 7872
firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com
Making its mark with Mohair by Victor Chesky
South Africa grows 65% of global Mohair fibre and processes 80% of all world production. Samil is a leading mohair producer in the Eastern Cape of South Africa and specialises in processing mohair tops and yarns for machine knitting, hand knitting and weaving. The company is vertically integrated from mohair grower, to topmaker, to spinner, and finished garments. I asked Andrew Laing Sales and Marketing Manager and a Director at SAMIL Natural Fibres how the company navigates its interests from grower to international trading, and stay true to its customer base. ‘We link mohair farmer, processor and consumer and we are committed to the Mohair industry from farm to retail, and unlike many processing plants around the world SAMIL Combing focuses on and is committed to only processing mohair.’
been associated with luxury and demand by consumers at retail for this noble fibre has been strong for the last couple of years’,he says.
‘Mohair fibre is natural, lightweight, durable, crease resistant, and non-flammable. These attributes make this fibre highly desirable by manufacturers of garments and industrial textiles. Mohair has long
Angora goats are farmed on a much smaller scale than sheep, each goat producing an average of 3 ½ kilograms of Mohair per year,
76 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
in two shearings. Mohair quality comes in two basic styles, ringlet shaped locks and flat wavy locks. Mohair is typically sold in three grades: fine, medium and strong, and this is determined largely by the age of the Angora goat. In general, the baby Mohair (kid) is the finest and most expensive. As a vertically integrated company Samil runs its own farm and together with farming partners runapproximately 16 000 goats. ‘In addition to our farm we work very closely with other goat farmers in both the Eastern and Western Cape. We collaborate by sharing water, feed, and farming expertise. The ongoing drought in our region has created challenges for the Mohair growing industryand our founding owner, Francis Patthey, who now lives in Port Elizabeth has made a personal donation of ZAR 1 millionto transport much needed feed to farmers in draught affected areas.’ ‘Our direct relationships with neighbouring farms help to facilitate a streamlined operation in getting all mohair to auction. Even Mohair grown in our own farm goes to auction, not to us directly, to ensure an open and transparent trading of this noble fibre ‘, he says. ‘Our mill in is dedicated to processing only mohair and is situated in the Eastern Cape, the heart of the world’s mohair producing area. This gives our customers the assurance that every effort is made to provide the best possible raw material available’. Apart from the standard commercial range of tops available Samil canalso supply speciality lots as per clientspecification. The company also undertakes commission work, big or small and will process lots as small is 250kg. ‘Although we specialise in pure mohair, we also blend mohair
with a range of other natural and man-made fibres. Yarns can be custom dyed to any shade at SAMIL’s own dye house. The dyeing of both our hand and machine knitting yarns is done at our own dye house, where we test, create and perfect our extensive colour ranges. SAMIL Spinning creates a comprehensive selection of quality knitting yarns based on current trends and these include solid shades and melanges. Counts vary from 1/40NM ringspun yarn to finely brushed fancy mohair yarn containing Super Kid Mohair, Wool, Silks and other fibre combinations. ‘We create perfectly blended fancy and worsted yarns in both all-natural as well as natural and synthetic fibre combinations to create lovely, soft, hand knitting yarns, and fancy dyed weaving yarns on cones direct from our own dye house. In addition to the option of purchasing the yarns in raw white (ecru), dyed as solid shades or blended into a palette of wonderful melange shades. We have introduced the option of hand-painted yarns which creates a totally unique effect for those hand knitters looking for a natural, artisanal look’. ‘The advantage of having both dedicated top-making and spinning operations in South Africa, as well as access to locally produced raw material, enables us to offer lots guaranteed from origin, a rare luxury in today’s business environment’, he concludes. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Mohair South Africa talks Sustainability by Deon Saayman, Managing Director Mohair South Africa
or the past 180 years, South African mohair farmers have been producing this superior natural fibre with passion, dedication and the utmost appreciation for their animals. Angora goats thrive in the Karoo climate of South Africa and are excellent converters of feed from their natural grazing environment into fibre. Shorn on a six monthly cycle, due to the rapid rate of hair growth, which is very similar to human hair, the quality of the hair will be the determining factor of the price.
Although we as an Industry know what the fibre is about and how it is produced, we realised that users in future would require assurance of sustainable practices and therefore introduced sustainable production guidelines in 2009. Although the initial uptake from farmers was somewhat slow, the appointment of a fulltime sustainability officer more than three years ago accelerated the compliance to 450 farms. In our efforts to evolve and stay abreast of international requirements , we started migrating our sustainable assessment forms to an electronic format at the start of 2018, linked to a traceability platform, which will empower the buyer on the auction floor to determine the sustainability of his purchases. At the same time third party verification was initiated in January 2018 by an accredited inspection body in South Africa. Although much of the video footage that has been circulating has been edited and manipulated to serve a specific grouping and purpose, two isolated cases of shearers not 78 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
handling the animals correctly were identified, upon which we as an Industry demanded strong and decisive action. The farmers have the greatest of understanding of what their clients might require to provide them with assurance of sustainable practices and have therefore accepted additional requirements in terms of the guidelines, which will include the following: â€˘ Supervision inside the shearing shed has to be guaranteed â€˘ Euthanasia protocols to be re-written â€˘ Additional training in animal handling and accreditation of shearers to receive priority In ensuring that all remaining farmers are assessed within the next 6 months, additional resources and manpower has been secured and hair offered on auction will in future be identified as sustainable. Realising that the system the Industry initiated nearly a decade ago might not satisfy all users in terms of independence and assurance, a process was started to obtain independent certification, similar to a Responsible Wool Standard, which can be adapted for mohair, based on the guidelines that have been developed and refined by a number of Industry experts. As global leader in the production and processing of mohair, we will ensure that we can satisfy users that we adhere to ethical and sustainable practices in the production of this superior lustrous natural fibre and will continue to evolve and adapt to ensure we can protect the livelihoods of more than 30 000 dependents of the Mohair Industry in South Africa.
Jannie Lategan (from Aberdeen)won the 2018c Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy, while the 2nd and 3rd places were won respectively by Billy Colborne (from Willowmore)and Piet Viljoen (from Kleinpoort)
Mohair trophy awarded for excellence
ponsored by Ermenegildo Zegna and Mohair South Africa the Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy has been selecting and awarding the finest mohair fibres produced in South Africa since 1970.To conclude the 2018 edition of the Trophy, Paolo Zegna, Chairman of the Zegna Group, announced and rewarded the three top finalists at an exclusive dinner held in Port Elizabeth on 25 June 2018. The aim of the annual Trophy, as is the Wool Trophies in Australia and New Zealand, is to encourage growers to improve the quality of their fibres. Points are awarded for objective measurements of fibre diameter, evenness, freedom from kemp, handle, lustre and general natural appearance. A total of 18 entries were received in this year’s competition. The winners were announced by Paolo Zegna during the award ceremony in Port Elizabeth, and recognized for the excellent quality of their mohair production, achieved despite the very serious drought which hit most of the production areas in South Africa.
Since the establishment of the Mohair Trophy, South Africa is the only producer country of mohair to be sponsored by the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. This is due to the superior quality that characterizes South African mohair, and the longstanding relationship the company has with Mohair SA. “I can proudly say that it is always an honour to recognize the incredible achievements of South African mohair growers,” said Paolo Zegna, Chairman of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. “We’ve been celebrating the best quality mohair since 1970 as a testament to the importance of the mohair industry and the on-going commitment of our Group to maintain the exceptionally high qualitative standards of the raw materials we use. In extending my congratulations to the finalists, who did an exceptional job to grow such fine mohair despite of the very difficult climate condition of the past seasons, I would also like to recognize the fine work of all the participants, who I encourage to continue targeting the level of excellence we have seen this year. Thank you for your efforts and ongoing commitment.” “The Ermenegildo Zegna Trophy program has been celebrating South African mohair for 48 years and it’s a privilege to work with such a prestigious group as Zegna,” said Deon Saayman, Mohair SA General Manager. “The farmers are very committed to producing the finest and highest quality fleeces in the country, which is why I would like to personally commend the finalists for their ongoing contribution to ensuring a sustainable supply of the best mohair in the world”. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Mohair gains lustre in china major part of the world’s demand for mohair tops. The dramatic increase in the size of the middle class in China has driven the demand for natural and luxurious fibres such as Mohair. China has recently become the biggest importer of mohair in the world and most of this mohair comes from South Africa as an increasing percentage of a reducing clip over the past decade.
he quantity of mohair grown in the world is miniscule in relation to the bigger family of natural fibres used in the textile Industry, yet its importance and value to designers and manufacturers of fine interiors, accessories, knitwear and fabrics reaches far beyond its weight produced. Mohair has been produced in South Africa for the past 180 years by mohair farmers with passion, dedication and the utmost appreciation for their animals. It is white, lustrous, resilient, wavy and up to 150mm/6 inches long. It is smooth, strong and durable, resistant to soiling, soil shedding, low flammability, felting and pilling and is moisture resistant. It can be dyed to deep, brilliant and fast colours. The versatility and sustainability of mohair lends itself to far more than just worsted fabric. Mohair socks are favoured by athletes, executive vehicles are fitted with deep twist pile mohair carpets mats, and interior designers chose this fibre for its luxurious qualities and adaptability. The Stucken Group has been among the world leaders in the early processing of mohair. As far back as 1968, the Group’s wool processing millGubb+Inggspioneered the combing of Cape mohair at origin. After some early technical setbacks this became so successful that before long more than half of the mohair clip was combedin SA. Today, practically no greasy mohair is exported and two specialised local mills supply the 80 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
An increasing number of spinners in China are adding Mohair fibre into their yarn production, for both domestic and export markets. The ever- expanding middle class in China, eager to buy luxury products in the apparel and velour sectors, make mohair fibre an attractive option for these spinners and Stuckens, the largest exporters of mohair from SA, see this demand still growing in the coming years. In 2017 the Stucken Group upgraded its Gubb&Inggs combing plant outside Port Elizabeth and installed new NSC Fibre to Yarn carding, gilling, combing and finishing equipment. Today, while the majority of its mohair top production is exported, it supplies a steadily increasing demand for mohair from the Group’s fully integrated spinning and weaving operations - Mohair Spinners South Africa, and Hinterveld – manufacturing mohair-rich throws, Cape Tweed fabric and fine accessories made from kid mohair. It is the distinctive combination of natural fibres, and our special love for the timeless qualities of mohair that gives our mills a personality and style. Our focus on mohair puts us into an excellent position to take advantage of the ongoing trend favouring the use of natural and sustainable fibres”, says Nicholas Stucken, joint CEO of the Stucken Group.
MO H A I R S P I N N E R S SO U T H AF R I C A
YOUNG DESIGN TALENT
outh Africa continues its promotional push in China. In April 2018 a showcase of young design talent at the 4th China Mohair Fashion Design Competition, was hosted by Donghua University in Shanghai. Nearly 40 young designers from the host school, as well as Xi’an Engineering University, Hubei Academy of Fine Arts and the Beijing Institute of Fashion, came together to put on a fashion show that will not soon be forgotten. There was fierce competition between the institutions and their individual designers, who brought their elaborate and creative mohair designs to the runway. The theme “Awakening the Senses” required students to design with emotion and striking visuals. In the end Xi’an Engineering University’s Yuan Renjie walked away as the competition’s overall champion. The competition, sponsored by Mohair South Africa and hosted by Muhai Culture Communication Co. Ltd. and the Shanghai Hanzhe Industrial Co. Ltd., has become one of the premier mohair fashion events in the world and always produces creative and striking designs. “We are proud to be a part of the development of young designers and love to see the
82 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
creativity this competition delivers year after year. The designs are world class and the students see a broader market potential for mohair,” said Anle Marais, marketing executive for Mohair South Africa. “This year was no different. All the designs were wonderful, especially the top three. But Yuan Renjie’s creative use of the fibre and colours truly set him apart from the other participants,” Marais added. Prizes were awarded for colour application, creative design, craft skill, market potential, online popularity and yarn utilization. As well as taking the title of overall winner Renjie also won for the prize for best colour application. Li Lei, general manager of Shanghai Hanzhe Industrial Co. Ltd., said the competition is important for raising awareness about mohair and the design talent at the participating universities. He said as interest in the competition grows there is more opportunities for young designers to exchange ideas and further develop their creativity. The competition judges were Anle Marais, Mohair South Africa marketing executive; Stephen Trigg, UPW creative director; Steven OO, Fashion designer; Yao Qingyi, WGSN trend director; Luo Zhengfang, ICICLE Commodity Planning senior manager. The competition categories and winners included Overall Champion and Best Colour Application, Yuan Renjie, Xi’an Engineering University; Best Creative Design, Yang Mengtong, Donghua University; Best Craft Skill, Sun Ruijia, Hubei Academy of Fine Arts; Best Market Potential, Zhang Yong, Hubei Academy of Fine Arts; Best Online Popularity, Lyu Dian, Hubei Academy of Fine Arts; Best Yarn Utilization, Sun Wei, Donghua University.
Demand for organic wool grows
emand for organic wools and Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified wool from Argentina has been in strong demand. ‘There is little doubt that interest in these certified wools is growing particularly in Europe, and to some extent in China,’ says Claudio Ulrich Managing Director of Lempriere Argentina. ‘This certification ensures that sheep are treated with respect and ensures best practices in the management and protection of the land. Through the processing stages, certification ensures that wool from certified farms is properly identified and tracked’. ‘We are fully supportive of organic wool production in Argentina. Although not available in big quantities, the supply will grow to reflect this demand’, says Claudio Ulrich. ‘Our Patagonian wool continues to be a favorite with top makers internationally. This region
is the home of some of the best quality wool in Argentina and is contamination free and completely free of foot and mouth disease and is Non Mulesed. Some other important advantages that are very much appreciated, is the snow white colour, a very low CVH, and very low VM.’ ‘We have the best access to the best wool, produced in the most ethical environment. Our company has well established relationships with wool growers. We have been buying wool from the same farmers for decades’, says Mariano Guerra Lempriere senior wool buyer and trader. Lempriere Argentina is an exclusive greasy wool exporter mainly focusing on Patagonia Merino wool in 19 - 21 micron range and crossbred wools in the 24 – 29 micron range. Mariano Guerra comments that ‘although all greasy wool is sorted at farm, using the “Prolana” national
Left to right: Mariano Guerra, Tony McKenna (CEO of Lempriere Group) and Claudio Ulrich
policy, we sort the wool again after purchase, as it arrives at our warehouse. This further sorting provides extra assurance that quality is maintained and customers receive exactly what was ordered. This sorting program adds a further level of scrutiny with a dedicated sorting team at its main plant in Trelew. Most woolgrowers in Argentina sheare sheep once a year. Wool is available in September through to December. As the best wools are grown in the Patagonia region, with a very short wool growing season, the best wools sell out quickly. Buyers need to be aware of this and be prepared to place their orders early. Lempriere Argentina has most wools in stock and usually supplies all year around, ‘but as some of the more popular wools do sell out by the end of the season we always encourage our customers to order early, ahead of each new season’, says Claudio Ulrich. ‘Our core business is exporting greasy wool. We do this very well’, he says. ‘We also have a deep knowledge of Argentine wools. If you are a topmaker and you are looking for a good quality, competitively prices wool for your processing you should talk to us’. For more information about buying wool from Lempriere Argentina please contact Claudio Ulrich at E: firstname.lastname@example.org Cel. +54911 44778681 Mariano Guerra at E: email@example.com Cel. +54911 5793 1108 wool2yarnglobal 2018
Superwash from Argentina Argentina is a main wool producing country with an annual production of around 26 million kilos of apparel wool. Argentine finer wool grades are well known for their whiteness and soft touch and are in demand by manufacturers of luxury fabrics. The broader wool grades cover an ample specter of products, from hosiery to knitwear, upholstery, carpets, rugs and non-woven goods. Almost all wool is exported as greasy, scoured, or tops. China takes the biggest share of Argentina’s wool exports buying 25.76% mostly in greasy form, closely followed by Germany with 22.43% and Italy takes 11.29% mostly in tops. Diego Jones
nilan started exporting greasy wool in 1953 and today it exports greasy, scoured and wool tops. Its processing plant is located in Trelew Patagonia where the Argentine wool is grown. The plant has a combing capacity of 6,000,000 kg per year processing wools from 18 - 40 microns. ‘The installation of our new superwash line, the first in Argentina, provides our customers the opportunity to shrinkproof their tops in our plant, saving time and money,’ says Diego Jones CEO at Unilan head office in Buenos Aires. ‘Our new superwash line has now been running for over a year and we are pleased with the demand from customers for this process.’
84 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
The majority of tops exported by Unilan is destined for Europe and is in the 19.5 - 21.5 micron range. All wools in Argentina are purchased directly from farm so full traceability certification is available. ‘Our wool is popular for its consistent quality and non-mulesed status. Traceability and good environmental credentials adds to its popularity with manufacturers of luxury products around the world’, he says. Diego Jones comments that ‘traceability from fibre to finished product is important to today’s consumers, particularly in the fashion, outdoor clothing and eco-interior sectors. Creating a story that reflects the journey along the supply chain from greasy wool is made easier because we are accredited
with international ISO standards and have full Interwoollabs and IWTO accreditation. â€˜We have been exporting Argentine wool for over 60 years and we are familiar with the requirements of top makers and spinners in Europe and in China and we are always interested in building long term relationships. We welcome enquiries from companies from around the world that are looking for a reliable supplier of greasy or scoured wool, lanolin, and wool tops from Argentinaâ€™, Diego Jones concludes. Visit www.unilan.com.ar or contact Diego Jones at firstname.lastname@example.org
The right wool for the right purpose ‘It doesn’t matter if it is India, China, Italy or Japan today everyone is interested in provenance, the story behind the garments they buy. Sourcing a fibre that can be identified by retail buyers back to its origin has been embraced by the retail trade’, says Ken Welsh of Techwool Trading (TWT).
his family business, founded by Rod Franklyn in 1983 is one of the largest exporters of Australian wool today. Rod Franklyn continues as Managing Director and is still very active, ensuring the company is reacting to market trends. ‘For example, we have a particular emphasis on bringing the next generation into the business, fully training them in traditional knowledge for immediate and future technology requirements’, says Rod Franklyn. The company exports around 300,000 bales each year and supplies all standard types from fine to medium Merino fleece wools, Crossbred fleece, and blend types as well as skirting and carding types. It traditionally values greasy wool by style, top length, tensile strength, and background colour. ‘We understand that traceability matters to the retailer and can source certified non-mulesed
Sarah Ryan, Wool Buyer
86 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
wool to provide origin traceability when required by our customers’, comments Ken Welsh. ‘We work closely with both topmakers and garment manufacturers and regularly travel worldwide working with these customers on wool types best suited to their production, marketing and budgeting requirements. This approach ensures we provide quality wool that will process consistently time after time and with current wool prices at a high level, we can offer advice to help minimise costs for the mill or processor’. TWT supplies wool to over 100 combing, carding and carbonizing mills worldwide. ‘Sourcing the right wool for the right application is always challenging for buyers and sellers of wool. It is what separates the sheep from the goats, the professionals from the amateurs’, says Ken Welsh. ‘The cost of Merino wool has increased dramatically in the last
Brendon Miller, Wool Buyer
two years. Topmakers, spinners and weavers are all aware that any mistakes during early processing, or spinning, can be costly. Sourcing the right wool for the right purpose has never been more important’, he says. ‘We have extensive and traditional knowledge in wool classing and we source wool from all wool growing regions in Australia. We are well equipped to match types and blends to suitindividual processing needs. ‘While some clients buy 2 - 3 containers each year, others will buy this quantity every month. The strength of our company is that we look after all our customers, big and small’, says Ken Welsh. ‘Our facilities in the growing regions of Australia hold stock ready for quick handling and delivery, ‘ he concludes. For more information please go to the TWT website www.techwool.com.au or contact Ken Welsh or Brendon Miller at email@example.com
Ken Welsh, Wool Buyer
Making an impact by Victor Chesky
There are some 30 wool export companies registered in Australia, with less than 10 of these exporting 80% of the Australian wool clip every year. So, how can a new export company break into this highly competitive club, and find space to make an impact.
I Left to right: Matthew Hand, Andrew Jackson, and Nigel Rendell
put this question to Matthew Hand, Managing Director at United Wool Co in Melbourne, and current President of the Australian Council of Wool Exporters and Processors (ACWEP), who together with partners Nigel Rendell and Andrew Jackson set up United Wool Co five years ago.
experience.’ Matthew Hand comes from a family with a long history in the global wool industry and brings over 25 years’ of experience in the procurement and supply of greasy and processed wool. He also currently serves as a Director at Australian Wool Testing Authority.
‘To have a deep knowledge in Australian wool and be 100% client focused is an absolute must to succeed in this competitive environment’, says Matthew Hand. ‘Our company maybe a relative new kid on the block, and we may be the youngest team, but we come with knowledge and three generations of wool producing, buying, processing, and export
‘Our team is dedicated to building sustainable long-term relationships with producers, processors, and consumers’, continues Matthew. Nigel Rendell, responsible for merino skirtings, crossbred and carding wool buying and trading, is a well known auction buyer with a depth of wool knowledge from the farm to the producer. Nigel comes from two generations of wool shearing and classing contractors. He has his finger on the pulse when it comes to supplying Australian wool, and procuring wool from New Zealand, Argentine,and South African markets. Andrew Jackson oversees the company’s Merino fleece buying and trading, has sixteen years’ experience in the export industry and has a wide and strong client network. Andrew grew up in the Western Division of New South Wales on a 38,000-hectare Merino property, held by the Jackson family for over one hundred years, where his wool career began. ‘Andrew is now a well-known supplier to many global wool processing entities, delivering wool with passion, and of exception performance’, says Matthew. United Wool supplies greasy wool, scoured
88 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
✓ Sourcing ethically produced wools - sustainable and traceable ✓ Merino Fleece and Crossbred Fleece ✓ Auction buying ✓ Sourcing direct from farmer and private buying networks ✓ Sourcing wools from South Africa, South America, New Zealand and Australia ✓ Single source wools direct from growers ✓ Scoured, carbonised wool, open tops and tops
Gate 4, 5 – 29 Frederick Road,Tottenham Victoria, 3012, Australia Tel: +61 3 9315 3057 • Fax:+ 61 3 9315 3063 • Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
wool, open tops, and tops of all origin. ‘We supply well-known brands throughout Europe, Japan, New Zealand, and China with more than just Australian wool, we also supply wools from all main wool producing countries,’ says Matthew. ‘Our procurement sources are varied and include direct from farm, private buying networks, and buying at auction. We have a presence in all wool growing regions in Australia, including Tasmania. ‘A point of difference’, comments Matthew ‘is our ability to work directly with manufacturers and link them to a sometimes single source farm for their wool needs. This streamlines procurement and provides clear traceability, and non-mulesing certification when sought by customers. ‘We can provide certainty to the manufacturer regarding the sourcing
of particular types of single origin wools for specific and individual orders. Some of our customers find this approach,and buying wool in long term and indexed contract cycles, reduces exposure to price fluctuations. ‘Our success is based on working throughout the global supply chain to deliver to our customers the wool they want, at a competitive price, meeting time objectives, working with our customers as we are all partners in this industry ‘, Matthew concludes. Matthew, Nigel, and Andrew can be contacted at email@example.com
Lempriere and global demand
ustralia has been selling wool for over 200 years and for 150 of those years Lempriere Australia has dominated the wool industry scene. Lempriere Australia is also one of the oldest wool trade companies in the world and during its 150 years it has exported over 2 billion kg of the finest Australian wool. The company operates at various sectors of raw wool supply from growing wool, exporting and early stage processing and can supply wool in a wide micron range and provide customers with greasy and scoured wool. ‘We continue to focus on growing our business in the key global markets with our historical client base as well as developing a very close relationship with various divisions of our parent group – Shandong Ruyi. We are focused on ensuring that we deliver value and a superior
90 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
level of customer service’, says Brett Woods in Melbourne. Lempriere Group is known for its ability to supply the finest of Australian wool, and customers include high end spinners and fabric manufacturers in Italy, UK, China, Thailand and Japan. ‘We have a wealth of experience, dedication to quality and business integrity. Our diverse worldwide client base requires a variety of wool for their production and we can supply any type from 15 - 40 microns for both the worsted and woollen segments’.
Bringing two continents closer Peter King, Michell Wool General Manager Trading Asia Pacific (left) and Steven Read, Michell Wool – CEO
Michell has been associated with wool trading and processing for over 140 years and 5 generations. It is one of the few companies that still process wool in Australia today. It also operates a processing factory in China, carbonising and scouring 20 million kgs of wool annually at these two locations and is a consistent exporter of greasy wool from Australia. Victor Chesky asked Steven Read about the challenges in running processing operations in two countries.
unning facilities in two continents has its challenges, as our past history shows. Michell opened its first office in China in the 1950s but our connection can be traced back to the 1900s. By the mid 1950s Michell was selling up to 15 million kgs of wool top and carbonised wool to spinners in China. We have opened and closed offices in China 6 times in the last 50 years as the wool industry in China has developed and changed its geographic locations. In 2006 we opened our present factory in Wujiang Jiangsu. ‘We are quite unique in that we have processing facilities in both Australia and China and Michell Direct Wool, our sourcing arm, with a network of depots and agents across Australia. Established in 2010 Michell Direct Wool now has direct buying relationships with wool growers enabling them to monitor supply and access types and specifications to suit manufacturer requirements. ‘These direct relationships enable us to fulfil specific requirements that manufacturers and retail brands may require to access niche market
segments. We can deliver wool that is traceable, non-mulesed, and can satisfy other specific requirements’. Michell Wool - Australia operates a modern Carbonising Line producing 12 million Kgs per annum capacity and Scouring Line producing 10 million kg per annum capacity . Michell Wool - China operates a Carbonising Line producing 6 million kgs per annum capacity and a KROY™ Loose wool Superwash. It is OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and APEO Free. ‘We also process wool at other commodity processing facilities giving us a rounded and specialist product offering’. ‘Our Commission Wool Processing offer clients the ability to process their own wool fibre through our unique processing plants. Our processing facilities in Australia and China give us scalability to source and process wool in accordance with our clients’ needs regardless of their size or location and deliver consistent quality at world competitive prices,’ Steven Read concludes. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Australian carbonised wool makes better sense
oday’s importers of wool are increasingly inclined to consider the benefits of processing wool in the country of origin, particularly in Australia. Rising labour costs and energy costs in Asia, as well as environmental compliance costs for early wool processing contribute to such rethinking in their buying and processing practices. ‘Successful early stage wool processing plants must concentrate on improved efficiency, reduced resource use and finding ways of dealing with their effluent discharges’, according to Mr Ritchie, Director at Victoria Wool Processors (VWP), the largest domestic wool processor in Australia. ‘This must be done without compromising product quality.’ Australian early stage wool processing plants operate under strict government environmental laws and wool processors must operate responsibly to mitigate environmental problems. Water treated at VWP is used for irrigation rather than being discharged into water ways. ‘It makes better financial and environmental sense for a topmaker to receive wool that has been processed in Australia. It will be clean and ready for further processing’, says David Ritchie. He encourages all top makers and spinners around the world to ask their Australian greasy wool supplier to quote the cost of importing such carbonised or scoured wool.
92 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We have the customer in mind in terms of product quality, competitive cost, and importantly, confidence that they are receiving 100% Australian wool. Australian quarantine laws prevent the importing of foreign wools so there is no blending with inferior types from other countries. Our wool is AWTA Certified as Australian wool processed in Australia, ‘ he says. VWP supplies carbonised wool of all types, lengths and qualities to customers throughout the world. It employs expert technicians that work directly with spinners to develop specific types most suited to their needs. It has a network of buyers throughout the wool growing regions of Australia sourcing the wools most suitable wools to produce the right product. The company also offer a full commission carbonising service tailored to the needs of each customer. ‘Our expertise and our advanced carbonising plant enable us to carbonise from the finest merino wool to the coarsest wool. Our product is known for its cleanliness, strength and consistency’, says Paul Ferronato Senior Buyer at VWP. ‘Although trading and processing carbonised wool types has been our business focus for over 30 years we also offer a comprehensive greasy fleece buying service for both firm offer and indent buying.’ VWP employs Chinese, Korean, Italian, Spanish and Vietnamese speakers, making communication easy for its customers in any part of the world. It also offers prompt shipping and logistic services to all parts of the world. For more information about the services offered by VWP please contact Paul Ferronato at PaulF@vwp.com.au
ndeavour Wool Exports (EWE), the newest wool export company in Australia, joined the field of 46 registered buyers and within its first year of trading has jumped to within the top 10 export companies. The new team is headed by Trading Manager Josh Lamb in Melbourne with and financial controller Warwick Eddington and buyers Stuart Greenshields in NSW and Cameron Stevens in Melbourne. This management team is experienced and well known within the Australian wool industry with a combined 70 years experience in procuring and exporting Australian wool worldwide. ‘Choosing a new name that would reflect the values of this company was important. Endeavour seemed appropriate as we earnestly try to achieve the best results for our clients. And to discover that the acronym or abbreviation for Endeavour Wool Exports would be EWE (female sheep) seemed to fit!’, says Josh Lamb, who was raised on a 15,000 sheep station in Western New South Wales. He started in the wool industry in 1992 and for the past 17 years was trading manager at Techwool Trading, one of the largest Australian wool export companies. ‘As forward sellers we can help clients lay off risk with price fluctuations and supply irregularities. This, and our experience in sourcing appropriate wool types become increasingly important as traceability and environmental credentials take centre stage,’ he says. And of course our youthful team, will play an important
94 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
What’s in a name?
part in the growth of our company in the coming years.’ Endeavour’s biggest export market is China, followed by Europe and Japan. ‘We travel internationally to advise customers regarding the wools best suited to their production. This handson approach is appreciated by our customers’, says Stuart Greenshields. Starting in the Australian industry with Reward Ningbo in 2001 before moving to Lempriere and Techwool Stuart has gained a wide range of wool buying and processing experience. Having grown up on a farm in Victoria, stepping into the wool industry was a natural progression for him.
Josh Lamb (left) and Stuart Greenshields
‘Choosing a new name
that would reflect the values of this company was important
‘We understand the types of wool most suitable for our clients wherever they may be and provide uniform deliveries of wool that will process consistently time after time. We also appreciate the important our customers place on traceability and best practice including non-mulesing. We have the networks in place to source this wool, whether at auction or through private buying.’ ‘We Endeavour to provide our customers with the best quality of wool for price, with attentive service delivered with integrity. This is our goal and we welcome calls from companies that are interested in tapping into this buying framework in Australia’, Stuart Greenshields concludes. For more information please contact Josh Lamb or Stuart Greenshields at firstname.lastname@example.org
Western Australian exporter continues to grow West Coast Wool (WCW) sent its biggest delegation to the IWTO Congress held in Hong Kong earlier this year. ‘Our young and vibrant group attests to the growth we are currently experiencing’, says William Davidson, WCW Export Sales Manager.
CW exports greasy wool of all types from fine Merino to Crossbred wool and is the largest purchaser of carding wool types direct from woolgrowers in Western Australia. ‘But we predominantly source and trade merino types 15.5 to 21.5 micron. Our major advantage is our direct buying network with Western Australian wool growers as well as our own wool buyers at auction in the West and the East’, says Luke Grant Managing Director of Westcoast Wools. WCW runs a large private buying operation and can acquire greater quantities of wool outside the auction network. Many smaller grower lots of similar quality are grouped together and shipped as one group lot. ‘We have moved away from blending wools. Of course we do trade traditional types, however if a customer is interested in processing “off measured” wool types we can supply to their required specifications. We have a range of clients including large top makers, that use our warehouse opportunities to devise their own “in-house” types that we make up for them under their strict instruction’, says Luke Grant. The issues of traceability, non-mulesing, and wool accreditation are of particular importance to spinners and weavers in Europe. ‘We can assist in sourcing the most appropriate types from within Australia.’
From left:Justin Haydock, Rueben Small, William Davidson, Gavin O’Dwyer and Danny Ryan at IWTO Congress in Hong Kong
96 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
WCW and its Livestock division employs a staff of 75 professionals including fourteen country wool buyers in WA and two in Sydney and Melbourne specialising in merino and crossbred wools. In Western Australia, WCW operates five country warehouses sourcing wool directly from woolgrowers. ‘We export to Japan, Europe, India and China and we are familiar with the requirements and wool types favoured by these countries. Through our wide network we can procure these wools all year round’, says Gavin O’Dwyer, who has been working with Indian and European manufacturers for many years. ‘Our wool is cost competitive, particularly our open top and carbonised types, and we have built up a solid reputation for quality and especially for colour and length.It is with this in mind that we have made a concerted effort into diversifying our markets. ‘Our Indian and European business has increased dramatically where we are now supplying worsted, semi worsted and carding types to several European countries while doubling our Indian business. Next season we will be focusing on developing that even further making the most of the new relationships we have made from old friendly connections. Even though the company is only 21 years old we have 7 senior members on the executive team with well over 30 years wool experience each’, he says. For more information please contact Gavin O’Dwyer for India on +61 407 774 887 or email@example.com and William Davidson for Europe on +61 407 938 397 or William@wcwts.com.
Canadian wool - a viable alternative blends using Canadian wool see it as a quality option and economical solution to maintaining production standards’. Most Canadian wool is being blended with other wools and international customers remain interested in buying Canadian wool’, says Eric Bjergso. ‘Of course our wools can also be used on their own for a variety of products that favour coarser wool types’.
Eric Bjergso talks to Chinese buyers at Nanjing Wool Market Conference
t has been one hundred years since Canadian Co-Operative Wool Growers (CCWG) was formed in 1918 to collect and grade wool. The co-operative grades and markets close to 1.4 million tons of raw wool each year; the majority of this coming from Québec, Ontario and Alberta, in each of the three general classes of wool (fine, medium and coarse). ‘This wool is known for its highly elastic characteristics that are recognised by manufacturers as an advantage, particularly for shape retention. The Canadian clip is comparatively small and mainly ranges from 22 – 35 microns with the bulk of production being between 29 -34 microns’, says Eric Bjergso General Manager at CCWG. ‘Higher wool prices in Australia, South Africa, and New Zealand have created an opportunity for processors to buy Canadian wool as a viable alternative. Sheep are not mulesed in Canada’, he says. ‘Processors that create
98 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Some of the most popular breeds of sheep in Canada include the Suffolk, Dorset, Rideau Arcott, Rambouillet and Targhee. Sheep farms accounted for less than 2% of Canadian farms with some 1,074,300 sheep and lambs.’In terms of the Canadian wool clip our volume is stable, despite the drought experienced in Eastern Canada that will see fewer ewes shorn this year. CCWG collects and grades wool for domestic and international consumption. Only 10% of Canada’s production is consumed domestically, and the remaining 90% is exported to the United States, China, India, Czech Republic, Egypt and Bulgaria. The wool is weighed on arrival, graded and core tested. The raw wool is inspected by hand and classified by average diameter and length of the fibre, colour, lustre and crimp (tight, natural wave). ‘Accurate measuring for each wool lot offered for sale is appreciated by our customers. They know they are receiving a well prepared and better quality graded wool that results in a higher market value for their product. ‘ For more information contact Mr Eric Bjergso Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
What Nanjing Wool Market can offer you
hina has continued to play a central role in the wool and textile industry. And like any industry it faces a number of challenges. Environmental issues play a central role. The industry is addressing the need to achieve better energy conservation, greater emission reductions, increased labour cost issues, and demand for better quality products. The industry in China is also adjusting to rapid increase in prices of Merino wool and a decrease in prices for Crossbred wools. Notwithstanding all these factors the domestic market in China maintained a steady growth through 2017. The Nanjing Wool Market (NWM) plays an essential role in facilitating links between the wool industry in China and the international market. NWM is often the first point of contact for many offshore companies seeking to sell their wool into China. It provides advice and assistance in doing business in China. NWM membership includes woolgrower cooperatives, traders, primary processors, and spinners of wool, and allied fibres all over China. Foreign membership can also be obtained.
It works closely with AWI, AWEX, and AWTA in training wool classers, wool shearers, and providing educational resources to local wool growers and provides training to the early wool processing industry in China. The NWM Conference, held in September each year, is an excellent opportunity for all international delegates to meet with China’s biggest wool buyers and processors, all in one place. It also offers exhibition space for companies wishing to exhibit their products and is open to delegates from all around the world. As well as domestic Chinese industry issues this conference is now a fully international conference with presentations and participation from industry leaders worldwide. Speakers at the Conference offer insight into the China wool industry and its future plans. ‘Delegates can learn about the future plans in the China textile industry and provides time to meet with all major wool and textile companies from all over China’, says Madam Yang NWM Chairwoman. ‘We welcome international delegates to our annual conference. It is a major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China and is attended by executives of all major Chinese wool buying and processing companies. Today we welcome around 600 delegates and over 100 of these are international delegates.’ Companies from outside China interested in attending the next conference are invited to register their interest by contacting Nanjing Wool Market at email@example.com
‘Foreign companies planning to establish new trade relationships or planning to set up joint ventures with companies in China are welcome to consult us at NWM or China Wool Textile Association (CWTA)’, says General Manager Mr Jian Chen. We are always pleased to assist any company that wishes to do business with our members.’ NWM also chairs the Joint China Australia Wool Working Group and Joint New Zealand China Wool Working Group. It is involved in arbitration and trade dispute settlements, and offers financial services including Bills of Exchange and Letters of Credit. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Further expansion for China’s second biggest topmaker
by Victor Chesky
have been meeting with YANG Shao Wei Director at Zhejiang Red Sun Wool & Textile Co for many years now and no matter what the trading conditions internationally and in China, his most consistent position has always been one of optimism. It is not surprising then, that Red Sun has continued to increase its production capacity and is now the second biggest topmaker in China. Its third mill started operations in in the Free Trade Zone in Zhejiang in September 2018. Production at the new mill is exclusively for export and will make tops from 16 - 22 microns. It has also entered into an agreement with Chargeurs Luxury Materials (Chargeurs Wool) as sole distributor of their tops in Europe. ‘Our new mill has been built in the Free Trade Zone in Zhejiang, will provide clear benefits to our international customers and will increase our competitiveness. ‘All greasy wool that we import for our production
100 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
into this Free Trade Zone will attract zero customs duty and there will be no restriction in the quantity of wool we import. We will be 5% more competitive than before’, comments YANG Shao Wei. We also offer commission processing, and being in this Free Trade Zone there is no tariff for customers to import their wool. We are 10 minutes from the port, so logistics is much easier. ‘Over the last 20 years we have gained a reputation for supply of wool tops that is stable in quality, competitive in price, and providing excellent customer service. The new mill will further reinforce our position as a preferred supplier to our customers worldwide’. ‘Our investment in advanced machinery, together with a skilled and creative management team, with unmatched passion for wool, enables us to offer the most
YANG Shao Wei Director at Zhejiang Red Sun Wool & Textile Co
suitable wool to our customers’, says Mr Yang. ‘Our 3 mills provide great flexibility in our supply and we welcome contact with companies that are interested in doing business with us’. ‘We lead the way in China when it comes to environmental credentials and operate the most advanced water treatment plant in China. We are ISO 9001 Quality Management System Certified and ISO14000 Environment Management Certified. A sustainable future is a high priority for us’, he comments. ‘We produce excellent tops with an eye to environmental considerations. We are among the world’s best in energy saving, environmental protection, and production efficiency.’ ‘For spinners and weavers that require non-mulesed certification, we can provide this through AWTA. Even when we process orders for tops that are made from up to 200
different lots AWTA can provide us with one certification.’ ‘Our customers can now buy a wider variety of wool tops from us and do not need to source from anywhere else. It is more economical, more convenient, and our customers find it more practical than shopping around. We can supply tops of various specifications ranging from 15.5 to 32.0 microns including non-mulesing wool tops, and open tops, broken tops, sliver tops, Superwash & Soft Luster tops, Basolan tops, mohair tops, Lincoln tops, and more, suitable for high-class worsted, semi-worsted and woolen textiles manufacturers. We also supply noils and Lanolin all year around. For further information about the variety of products available from Red Sun please contact Vivian Huang at import-sfy@ redsunwool.com or Nick Chen at cyg@ redsunwool.com www.redsunwool.com
Right place at the right time
empriere opened its newest topmaking plant in Sliven, Bulgaria in 2016. Operations are mainly focused on processing 17.5 - 25 micron wool from around the world but mostly from Australia, South Africa and South America. ‘It has been a very busy couple of years and not without some challenges along the way. But we believe Bulgaria is the right place for us and we are ironing out some glitches with machinery. As these are addressed we are feeling very confident about the future’, says Eric Durand Lempriere Group CEO. ‘Our plant in Bulgaria has only been running for a short time and starting from scratch had its challenges. As with most combing mills we are using second hand machinery which we had to refurbish. This has taken more time and effort
102 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
than expected but we are now on a positive trend with production and quality reaching the expected targets. ‘We needed to establish a plant that could satisfactorily house the machinery as well as installing a brand new effluent treatment facility to comply with European environmental regulations’, he says. ‘We needed to employ a reliable workforce that would complement the experienced local and international members of our team’. Lempriere Bulgaria employs around 180 people from the local region and has established a fully accredited Interwoollabs laboratory, and has GOTS, RWS and EU Flower certification. Bulgaria joined the European Union in 2007 making it the newest member. ‘As a member of the EU we must comply with
EU energy, and labour laws and regulations.’ 80% of production is for Lempriere Group and 20% is currently for commission, servicing the knitting and weaving sectors. ‘For spinners and weavers in Europe that require traceability and certification we can source the right wool from our offices in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and South America and process these wools to their specification here in Bulgaria, in the heart of Europe’, says Eric Durand. ‘European spinners increasingly prefer tops that are made in Europe. So Bulgaria was a logical location for Lempriere to set up a low cost manufacturing operation’, he commented. ‘Bulgaria is cost competitive and has a well educated labour force. Increasing costs and longer delivery time for tops to reach Europe from China also made it a logical choice. ‘ ‘We have a capacity to produce 6 million kg of tops per year and we are now running 340 days a year - 7 days a week - 24 hours a day.
Interwoollab accredited on-site laboratory
‘We can provide a stock service and one of the advantages of being so close to our customer is that we can deliver quickly. Our proximity to the closest port, at Burgas, and excellent road connections to all European countries, mean that we can deliver within Europe in 3 - 4 days’, says Eric Durand. Eric Durand can be contacted at Eric.Durand@lempriere.bg
Answering the call for transparency and if required can apply TEC treatment to the finished tops before we supply it to the spinner of choice. Bloch & Behrens have a number of brand partners using Merino, Halfbred and Crossbred wool for apparel, blankets, carpet,rugs, upholstery and hand knitting yarn and many other products.
Bloch & Behrens - Jason Everson, Palle Petersen, David Hudson inspecting Wool Integrity bales prior to shipment.
ecognising a world where consumers are now wanting to understand the story behind the products they buy,Bloch & Behrens launched its flagship brand Wool Integrity NZ™two years ago and todaypartners withmany users of New Zealand wool around the world. ‘The brand is based around the fundamental hallmarks of quality, sustainability and animal welfare. It providesa more transparent supply chain from Farm to Market’, says Palle Petersen General Manager of Bloch & Behrens NZ.’It tells the story of where the wool came from and under what conditions it was grown.’ Merino, Halfbredand Crossbred Woolfrom New Zealand is regarded as the best in the world. Through our parent company, PGG Wrightson Ltd we have direct contact with growers who take pride in what they produce and how they treat the animals and land they live on.All Wool Integrity wool is guaranteed to be from non-mulesed sheep. We are in the unique position of being able to provide manufacturers with guarantees around wool quality, traceability back to farm, and assurances that Animal Welfare requirements are met. In many cases our international customers will get to know the farmers personally. We are happy to work with niche manufacturers of merino garments to link them with the most suitable farms and establish the most cost effective supply chain route to market. We also work with combing mills in China who commission process our Merino wools
104 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Bloch & Behrens exports to more than 30 countries around the world. It is the wool export arm of PGG Wrightson, the biggest wool brokering company in New Zealand, with access to wool throughout the North Island and South Island of New Zealand, not only buying wool at the auction, but also through direct contracts with farms, providing price certainty for the farmers and international customers alike. ‘Over a thousand farmers across New Zealand are already signed up to the Wool Integrity NZ™ program’,he says. ‘It monitors wool at every stage of its journey from farm to market and offers full traceability of each lot to its originating farm. Wool in this program can be directly sourced as greasy, scoured or combed wool.Wool is scoured using only environmentally friendly detergents. ‘To make the Wool Integrity NZ™ brand available to carpet manufacturers and weavers who don’t have their own in-house spinning capabilities, we are pleased to have 4 leading European spinners as Wool Integrity brand partners, who can supply Wool Integrity NZ™compliant yarn’: Finished products made from Wool Integrity NZ™ branded wool are eligible to carry the logo. ‘This logocan sit alongside a manufacturer’s brand or just be an ethical ingredient that provides added-value endorsement of a products integrity’, says Palle Petersen.
BLOCH & BEHRENS WOOL (NZ) LTD
A Journey of Genuine Wool Integrity. Does integrity matter to you? Bloch & Behrens, through New Zealand’s principal wool broker PGG Wrightson Wool have been delivering consistent quality wool to the world for generations. Through our Wool Integrity™ Programme we can provide full transparency throughout the entire wool supply chain and offer assurances that wool has been ethically grown and followed a path of genuine integrity from farm to market. Follow the journey at www.woolintegrity.com
Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd General Manager: Palle Petersen PO Box 9024, Tower Junction, Christchurch 8149, New Zealand P +64 3 343 9100 E firstname.lastname@example.org Bloch & Behrens Wool (NZ) Ltd – Europe European Manager: Hans Bering Langs Hegnet 86, 2800 Lyngby, Denmark P +45 20 40 74 72 E email@example.com
Coarse Wool • Merino Wool • Greasy • Scoured • Combed Wooltops www.pggwrightsonwool.co.nz
Red Band stamp of approval
emand for New Zealand wool has been trending up in the last season and much of this demand is thanks to China’, says John Dawson CEO at New Zealand Wool Services International (WSI). ‘We have experienced an increase in sales of both scoured and greasy wool to China in the last few months, particularly for finer crossbred wools, but even demand for traditional types from 30-38 micron has lifted.’ This demand has seen prices lift slightly, but
106 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
overall the cost of New Zealand wool remains at historic lows. Such competitively priced wool offers an opportunity for processors around the world to increase their use of New Zealand wool in a range of products including carpet, upholstery, and new blends for new applications. ‘Our Red Band labelling is an easily recognisable red strap that runs down every bale of wool shipped from NZWSI to our customers around the world. It identifies our
TC Bilandani Manager WSI office Delhi - Spinners and weavers in India value Red Band labelled wool for its superior quality
wool and distinguishes it from other wool imports. Our customers know that the Red Band is a guarantee of quality. Each bale in each delivery will perform consistently. ‘ NZWSI has a stringent selection criteria and in-house testing, providing technical data within 48 seconds of each bale tested. Careful monitoring of each bale result minimises range fluctuations, providing more even deliveries. Every shipment has an extensive warranty and detailed testing certification. WSI is the largest exporter of scoured wool from New Zealand and through its subsidiary JS Brooksbank it is also one of the biggest exporters of greasy wool. The Group continues to be the main buyer at auction and also sources wool direct from selected sheep farms in both the North and South Islands. WSI’s biggest customers are China followed by Europe, UK, India, and Turkey. ‘Spinners value our wool for its uniformity, and relative freedom from dark fibre. These qualities make it an ideal fibre for carpet, interior textiles, bedding, and apparel products. Our customers in Europe and India are also keen on our finer
John Dawson General Manager, WSI
and shorter types, ideal for upholstery and fabric as they perform well when dyed.’ ‘Environmental compliance and traceability are very important issues for our customers in Europe and around the world. Our buying network provides us the best opportunity to obtain the best and most appropriate wool types and ensure that it is processed to customer specification’, says John Dawson. ‘Sheep in New Zealand are not mulesed and we can provide non mulesed certification to customers if required. ‘ WSI scours in the most modern wool scouring facilities. Strict systems of environmental care are enforced and only pure New Zealand water is used in the scouring process. Organic waste is then used to manufacture superior compost products. The company works to ISO 9001 and 14001 standards and has Eco Labelling, GOTS, and REACH Certification. ‘For spinners that require a reliable supplier of New Zealand wool you can’t go passed WSI and our Red Band label’, John Dawson remarks. ‘We deliver to exact customer specifications and handle all enquiries quickly and efficiently’. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Pick up for NZ wool exports ensure our customers receive exactly what they ordered.’ Fuhrmann is one of the oldest names in wool sourcing and export and is one of the biggest buyers of New Zealand wool at auction. While China remains its largest export destination Europe is an important destination, particularly for its fine Merino. It offers a range of New Zealand wool types including Merino wool, greasy and scoured Crossbred wool, Slipe wool, and all types of lambs’ wool.
From left to right: Phil Deacon, Peter Christensen and Steve Finnie
emand for Crossbred wools is on the way up after a period of low demand and therefore low prices. The stockpile of Crossbred wool in China is reducing and the stockpile in New Zealand is also on its way down. ‘As the year goes we expect better demand for New Zealand wool exports’, says Peter Christensen of Fuhrmann NZ. ‘All carpet types are now selling well and slipe wool is also in demand and our fine Merino exports are very strong. ‘New Zealand crossbred wools for carpet is favoured for their natural characteristics and increasingly for their very strong environmental credentials. Just as the profile of finer wools have increased at retail so too will crossbred wool products. New Zealand sheep are not mulesed, an added attraction, particularly for buyers in Europe’, he says. ‘We have been supplying wool to the international market for many years’, says Steve Finnie. ‘Our emphasis has always been on quality. We appraise every lot of wool to
110 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We are part of the G. Schneider Group and its international standing provides further assurance to our customers that we will always be able to deliver as per contract specification. We supply wool to the fabric industry, carpet and bedding manufacturers, fancy yarns spinners, and felts and lambs’ wool for upholstery and knitting yarn,’ says Peter Christensen. Fuhrmann NZ also sources Merino wool for G. Schneider Group worldwide. Helen Cameron, Merino wool buyer for the company in Christchurch comments that ‘at present there is insufficient Merino wool in New Zealand to satisfy demand. The combination of increased demand from customers in China and Europe has seen Merino wool prices at a record high. ‘We specialise in buying finer wools, from 11 microns, and supply to major fashion brands in Europe that need the finest wool possible for their production line. Our long standing relationships with fine wool growers in New Zealand enable us to source the very best of New Zealand Merino on offer. Finer wools don’t always go to auction so these relationships are very helpful when establishing clear tractability paths’. For more information about Fuhrmann NZ Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
F U H R M AN N Z N
Changing the game through quality and innovation ‘We need to capitalise on the expanding interest in sustainability, renewable resources, and animal wellbeing’, says Peter Crone, Director of John Marshall & Co. ‘The New Zealand wool industry also needs to take better advantage of the ground swell in concern for micro plastic polluting our waters, our sea life, and ourselves! Social media is a good place to start’. He also adds that’this provides us with the opportunity to claw back some market share from synthetics and create more demand, and we need to do it sooner rather that later.’ John Marshall & Co exports New Zealand crossbred greasy wool, scoured wool, slipe wool, and wool tops. It is among the top 10 wool companies in New Zealand exporting and sourcing wool through the auction system as well through its established direct buying channels. It is a member of Council of New Zealand Wool Exporters, and is a strong supporter of the Campaign for Wool. The company exports all New Zealand wool types and is particularly well known as an exporter of ultra fine wool from 11 - 14.5 micron wool. ‘Our Merino wool comes directly from a selected group of growers in the southern region of New Zealand. They all produce wool from the same bloodline and are particularly favoured by top makers in Europe and China’, he says. ‘We have been sourcing wool from these same woolgrowers for many years, and this gives us considerable direct buying capacity. 112 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We can guarantee supply of excellent quality New Zealand Merino wool. While the quantity of New Zealand merino wool has dropped over the last 10 years the quality has not. Our customers know that we deliver quality on time, all the time’, says Peter Crone. ‘New Zealand fleece wool is non-mulesed and we can provide full proof of traceability direct from the farm which give us a clear advantage over synthetic fibres.’ New Zealand wool is resilient and naturally white and free of black fibres, making it easier for manufacturers to produce dense and uniform colour. ‘These attributes make it particularly receptive to dye, a crucial factor for use in high-end carpet and fabrics for both interior design and apparel fashion houses’, says Peter Crone. ‘Sheep are farmed outdoors and the fibre is naturally long and strong. This is why our New Zealand wool is considered the premium eco-friendly fibre for many applications.’ The Joma Wool® brand, developed by John Marshall & Co, is a specially processed wool with extra crimp and increased bulk of 40-50%, making it an ideal fibre for manufacturers of mattresses and bedding products. (See Joma Wool® article in Bedding Report). ‘We are always on the look-out for new and innovative applications for New Zealand wool. We promote the development of wool to ensure that its physical benefits are matched by its economic and technical performance’, Peter Crone concludes. Please contact Peter Crone at email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org
The world’s most loved wool.
At John Marshall & Co, we bring the very best New Zealand wool to the world, with products that embrace innovation, performance, sustainability and care.
63 Mandeville St, Christchurch, New Zealand Phone: +64 3 341 2004 — Email: email@example.com — www.joma.nz
GREASY AND SCOURED WOOL ~ NZ MERINO WOOL ~ NZ MERINO WOOL TOP ~ JOMA® WOOL
Why scouring at point of origin is better processed with the environment in mind and processors can be confident that they are getting 100% New Zealand wool that has not been blended with inferior types from other countries ‘, he says.
sk anyone what New Zealand is famous for, and they will tell you - playing rugby and growing wool. And they pride themselves at doing both extremely well. 2017/18 wool production in New Zealand was 140,400,000kg greasy. 70% of this wool was exported to world markets as scoured wool. ‘Importers of New Zealand wool have many good reasons to receive New Zealand wool that has been scoured already’, says Tony Cunningham, CEO at Cavalier Woolscourers. ‘We offer our customers the highest level of environmental certification and labelling. He adds, ‘the cost to process wool in New Zealand is very competitive. Wool that has not been washed to specification presents a cost to top makers in money and time, and the possibility of product defects if pollutants go undetected. Our scoured wool is consistent in quality, and uniform in length and colour, making it an ideal fibre for any textile product’. ‘When a customer receives wool that has been scoured by us, they will receive wool that is clean and ready for use. The wool has been 114 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Cavalier Woolscourers operates three scouring facilities in both the North and South Islands of New Zealand. ‘Customers receive cleaner wool with minimal residual content and with full traceability. Our South Island facility at Timaru is the only one of its kind in the world, capable of washing every type of wool, from fine merino for apparel, to coarse wool for carpets. We are the most quality conscious commission scouring company in the world’, he says. ‘Our Eco Labelling Certification demonstrates the importance we place on strict environmental practices. We lead the way with World Best Practices for environmental issues such as low water usage, energy usage and recycling. All wash water is fresh, pure, natural water from artesian ground wells onsite, not recycled water that has been stripped with acid and polymers’, he comments. Cavalier Woolscourers is also accredited Global Organic Textiles (GOTS) for “100% Organic Scoured New Zealand Wool”. ‘New Zealand has the cleanest brightest scoured wool on the planet’, says Tony Cunningham. ‘Our processed wool has the lowest levels of fibre residue anywhere in the world.We have the skills and machinery to provide one-stop-shop service and are as competitive in price as any scourer in China or anywhere else in the world. We offer each customer a tailor made wool processing
service. We run highly developedand finetuned ANDAR “Top Master Woolscours” to scour Fine Wool to exacting quality standards.’
finished product, less felting and consequently a higher percentage of product suitable for market’.
The company has processes to detect contaminants throughout the scouring process; visual checks by experienced technicians, and automated scanning and detection equipment such as metal detectors. ‘Our processing achieves a maximum yield with world-leading technology and pre-scour treatment results in less entanglement of
After scouring, every bale is tested for moisture content, residual grease, colour and vegetable matter. Cavalier Woolscourers is an approved core testing supplier with both SGS New Zealand and the New Zealand Wool Testing Authority (NZWTA). For more information please contact Tony Cunningham at firstname.lastname@example.org
Connecting buyers and sellers
wool2yarnChina Speciality Fibres
wool2yarn global Speciality Fibres
wool2yarn China Speciality Fibres
纱线 － 品牌背后的品牌 英国羊毛的新标签 南非马海毛公司推出首届国际设计大赛 秘鲁羊驼毛纱在Pitti Filati交易会绽放光彩
羊毛用于高性能服装 从粗花呢服装到现代运动服装 2016-2017年羊毛购买商指南
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2017-2018
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2018-2019
INTERNATIONAL TRADE PUBLICATIONS
PO Box 11, Caulfield South, Melbourne, Victoria 3162, Australia • Tel: 61 3 9533 0627 • Fax: 61 3 9533 0727 • Email: email@example.com
www.wool2yarnglobal.com 116 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Adding Falkland wool to your brand portfolio
W Robert Hall
ool buyers should consider Falkland Islands wool when choosing fibre for their processing and marketing needs. It is known for its excellent soft handling, length, good bulk and whiteness. ‘Falkland Islands wool offers an opportunity to purchase apparel wool with an excellent reputation and a wonderful heritage’, says Robert Hall, Falkland Wool Growers Ltd Marketing Manager, from his office in the UK. ‘Falkland Wool Growers act as wool marketing agent for the majority of owner occupier farmers in the Islands and work closely with selected processor partners who also endeavour to market the ‘fabulous’ qualities of the Falkland clip’, says Robert Hall. Falkland Islands farmers have been dedicated to sheep breeding for wool production for over 120 years. There are 80 farms, covering 1.1M hectares with some 485,000 sheep. Breeds include Merino, Polwarth, Corriedale, Cormo, Multi Purpose Merinos (MPM’s) and Comeback sheep breeds with a micron range of 18-29 and an average of 24.5µ. ‘In recent decades there have been significant imports of genetics from Australia and South Africa, reducing the fibre diameter of the wool, whilst seeking to increase fleece weight and maintain bodyweight. The wool is completely free of Organo-Phosphate and Synthetic Pyrethroid sheep dip residues, as no sheep dipping is
118 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
undertaken by Falkland Islands farmers’, he says. ‘Most farms are extensive rangelands with low animal stocking densities, all working alongside the fantastically beautiful natural environment. Sheep graze largely native vegetation on the rolling plains and uplands.’ The climate can be considered cool maritime and is ideal for a high
population is around 3,000 people. The economy was historically based on the wool industry but since 1986 the largest income has come from the sale of Off Shore fishing licences. Many coastal farms share their land with colonies of penguins (5 species breed in the Falklands) and many other species of bird life including the Black-Browed Albatross. Sea Lions and Elephant Seals breed and have their young on beaches. Top class shearers are employed to shear the sheep in purpose built shearing sheds. World class standards of wool preparation and quality control take place in the shearing sheds, with the skirted fleeces classed prior to pressing into standard 200 kilogramme bales (nylon packs).
quality wool clip. It is drier and sunnier than many people expect, with the relatively low rainfall, low humidity and frequent wind helping to create suitable conditions for the characteristically snow white Falkland wool. Vegetable matter percentages are typically low and free of burrs making Falkland wool suitable for both the
worsted and woollen systems. Several farms are certified as organic whilst all sheep are non-mulesed. All wool is fully traceable back to both the farm and flock of origin. The Falkland Islands are situated 52’ South in the South Atlantic. They comprise of two large islands and over 700 smaller islands covering an area half the size of Wales. The
‘The wool bales are transported to Stanley (the capital) for shipping to UK, Europe and other destinations around the world. Testing is carried out by NZWTA and WTAE (UK) with the test results being the basis of all sales’, says Robert Hall. ‘Certified Organic supplies are available and all wool is prepared ready for best scouring, carding and combing – it is truly beautiful wool from a pristine environment’. Robert Hall can be contacted at roberthall@falklandwoolgrowers. co.uk wool2yarnglobal 2018
State of Trade in the UK and Beyond
by R. Peter Ackroyd
riting about the wool business in the UK last year I noted that, according to British Government official figures, 93% of all clothing consumed in the country was made offshore, primarily in the US dollar denominated countries of East Asia. Despite calls for manufacturing to be moved back onshore, the situation has changed little and if anything, more goods are being made overseas than last year.
98% made offshore, in Germany it is around 90% and in Japan it is estimated to be around 85%. Should the UK not reach a post Brexit agreement with the EU on trade and the British are obliged to adopt World Trade Organisation rules, there could be a possibility of duties of 8% being slapped onto clothing crossing the UK/EU border - a nightmare scenario for the textile clothing and footwear industries and their retail customers, not to mention the consumers.
In the USA, the import figure for fashion and footwear is about
UK Economic Outlook
120 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Although Brexit dominates any
discussion on the British economy, persistently poor productivity is said by many to be the major concern in 2018. The UK is forecast to grow by 1.6% this year and by 1.5% in 2019. Some observers are even suggesting a mere 1% in 2019. Until quite recently, 2% would have been the norm. This is a sadly familiar story. Most of the world’s institutions expect the UK to trail behind others “as the world economy surges, a momentum driven by US tax cuts, a rebound in trade and an upswing in investment” according to Maurice Obstfeld, the IMF’s Economic Counsellor. The IMF has
not revised global growth predictions since January, hailed as the “broadest synchronised global upswing since 2010” with 3.9% expected this year and in 2019. Despite poor domestic growth, unemployment in the UK is one of the lowest in Europe at 4.2%, compared to 8.9% in France, 11% in Italy, 16.3% in Spain. Germany scores particularly well at 3.2%. Irrespective of local economic woes, UK spinners and weavers, being around 90% export oriented, are benefiting from lower sterling exchange rates and a positive business environment in the main markets of the world. Some fifty years ago, the woollen and worsted spinning and weaving industry in the UK employed some 50,000 people in a bulk industry. Now around 9000 are engaged in a very niche industry of 42 companies that, to quote a leading haute couture company, “punch magnificently above their weight”. Fabric woven in the UK features prominently in the collections of Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Chanel, Burberry, Balenciaga, St Laurent, Gucci, Prada, Hermès, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Lanvin, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Paul Smith, Zegna and many, many more tier one and tier two luxury brands. And the British suppliers are here to stay, as high cost luxury fashion brands have finally realised that they can no longer get away with rubbish ingredients in high priced merchandise. All British top makers, spinners and weavers are enthusiastic supporters of HRH The Prince of Wales’ Campaign
for Wool, launched on Australia Day in January 2010, now with a world-wide following of more than 600 firms in the global wool supply ‘from farm to fashion’ and all signatories to the Dumfries House Declaration. All the British worsted weavers are Woolmark licensees and are also accredited to the Woolmark Gold programme for Greater China. Imported fabric is enjoying renewed popularity in the booming men’s made to measure business across China after the slow down that began in 2012, following the anti corruption crack down that severely affected the gifting of suit lengths to Chinese government officials. Another key market for worsted Australian Merino is Japan and many British weavers willingly concede that without the continued Japanese suit and jacket business over the last 40 years, they would of been out of business long ago. Whilst the ready to wear men’s and women’s business is currently ‘challenging’, the made to measure or ‘pattern order’ as the Japanese call it, is in rude health and UK mills are enjoying doing what they do best in Tokyo and Osaka.
A Very Anglo-Saxon Retail Environment Perhaps the most important point to remember about the UK of today is its rather unique retail distribution system where more than 70% of clothing is sourced and sold by around six huge retail operators on the British High Street. Marks and Spencer, NEXT, Arcadia Group (Top Shop, Top Man, Burton, Miss Selfridge, Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Outfit), John Lewis and Primark. Add to this the arrival of
H&M from Sweden, Zara from Spain and Uniqlo from Japan, it is quite obvious the UK middle market High Street is relatively ‘over populated’. None of the above mentioned brands are performing particularly well at the moment and several have reported a significant slowing down in winter sales following a poor Christmas. Meanwhile, Marks and Spencer’s woes continue as profits plunge by -62.1% from £176.4m to £66.8m as of the company’s year end on March 31st 2018. This result is mostly attributed to its five turnaround programme initiated by Chief Executive Steve Rowe. M&S plans to close 100 stores across the UK and significantly scale down its overseas operations. Profits after tax slumped by -74.8%, down from £115.7m to £29.1m. M&S’s embattled clothing division saw like for like sales drop by -1.9%. The only area of sales growth was in lady’s lingerie. Formal men’s wear sales were static and UK and Italian weavers supplying M&S are reporting intense price pressure, as Merino prices soar.
Per Capita Consumption of Wool Whilst the first wool exported from Australia came to my part of the world in 1807, I am always anxious to point out to Australian friends and colleagues that although the UK no longer takes the volumes of greasy wool it did in the first half of the last century, this country remains the second largest major market per capita consumer of wool in the world, at 0.40, bettered only by Italy at 0.44. The US comes in at 0.19 and France at 0.23. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Graham Clark (left) and Joe Farren
A new dawn for British Wool in China
rom opening a new office to an exciting new marketing approach, British Wool is looking to the Chinese market for expansion.
The Chinese market has for many years been the largest user of British wool outside of the UK,using an estimated 25% of the total clip. Since the peak of 2011/12 this has been a relatively stable number and British Wool is keen to exploit new opportunities, working with downstream partners to increase business. “We view China as one of the potential growth areas for our business,” commented Joe Farren, Chief Executive Office.“With a sizeable growing number of affluent consumers it is certainly a market where there is a lot of potential demand for high quality British wool rich products. There is also a huge appetite for provenance and British wool fits with this perfectly.” “A new Chinese office is to be opened in Shanghai this autumn,”Farren continued,
122 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
“Having people on the ground in China will allow us to add value to existing business as well as exploiting new opportunities with downstream partners.” The new Shanghai office will help facilitate the overall sales and marketing strategy as Graham Clark, Head of Marketing explains, “Over the past 12 months we have been implementing a new marketing approach in the UK, at the core of this is targeting consumers directly with the British wool message. This has been a multichannel approach through social media, a new website, consumer exhibitions and point of purchase in retailers. The same strategy, with regional modifications, will be rolled out in the Chinese market over the next 12 months. This should help, over time, drive traffic (and sales) to our partnering brands.” Clark continued, “With over 772 million internet users in China (c. 20% of internet users worldwide) clearly an on-line strategy will be key to any success we have. To this end a website is currently in development and we are
creating a social media persona on relevant channels such as WeChat. Our social media channels aim to: educate consumers on the benefits of purchasing a British wool rich product, inform consumers where they can purchase the products from and promote our partnering brands.” Another development British Wool are working on that will be rolled out in China is fibre and end product performance testing for the carpet sector. Due to the weather in Britain the wool produced is the bulkiest and strongest wool in the world. This produces a product that bounces back and retains its appearance for longer, making it the number one choice for carpets in the commercial environment. Clark commented, “Our fibre and end product testing will act as an invaluable selling tool for carpet manufacturers selling into commercial markets.” To ensure all of this activity is channelled to the right brands and products British Wool will be launching a new licensee scheme in China at the beginning of 2019, Clark explains, “With our planned increased presence in the Chinese market it is crucial that we are able to identify the correct downstream partners and ensure the products they are selling have the content of British wool we stipulate for our new scheme. The system that monitors the scheme, which has already been launched in the UK, is on-line and fully automated and traces the origin of the wool through the various manufacturing processes right back to the wool merchants.” To help vet and control the scheme British Wool is working with a company who are able to define the content of British wool all the way through the manufacturing process from greasy wool to end product. Clark commented, “This will allow us to test that end products do indeed have the correct British wool content, this gives the scheme a high level of credibility and helps ensure the products and brands we are promoting meet our licensee criteria.” Farren concluded, “A lot of time, effort and thought has gone into our plans to target the Chinese market, and we are already working on an exciting new development with a market leading downstream partner. We see this as one of many such relationships moving forward.” wool2yarnglobal 2018
Prices for British wool show positive signs
espite predictions to the contrary, British Wool prices were stable throughout the 2017 sale season. Over the last few sales, prices have increased by around 10% giving increased optimism for the future.
“Cross-bred wool prices in the UK appear to have hit the bottom and are now showing early signs of recovery,” commented Joe Farren, Chief Executive Officer at British Wool. “We have seen price growth across most types of wool in our past few sales which gives us reason to be positive for the coming season.” A new approach at British Wool has seen the wool offered at the auction in the past season done so in a much more tactical manner. Farren explains, “A great deal of analysis is conducted pre and post auction, this helps us set reserve prices and also decide the quantity and types of wool we release for sale. This is certainly contributing to the price growth we have recently experienced.” Andrew Hogley, Head of Strategic Business Development said, “Prices for the cross-bred wools were in decline until about August ’17 (BW39), then we saw 7 months of stabilisation followed by a steady increase thereafter. Our new marketing approach, targeting consumers direct and working closely with downstream partners, should help drive this recovery further over the coming years.”
124 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
The better demand experienced during the second half of the 2017 season meant that clearance rates at the end of June were 98%. This increased to 99% after British Wool’s last auction in July. Hogley continued, “There is undoubtedly better demand for cross-bred wool, in our last 7 sales clearances have all been in excess of 95%. At the same time we have also seen improving prices and increased clearance rates of New Zealand wool which would indicate the surplus cross-bred wool in China has to some extent worked its way through the system. This is good news for everyone.” Farren concluded, “There is real reason to be optimistic that British wool prices will gently but steadily increase over the coming years. Our new marketing approach of targeting the consumer and working with downstream partners across the globe through our new licensee scheme should, over time, increase demand and ultimately the price paid for British wool.”
New designs, new premises, always wool
ashing Tweeds has long been a contributor to wool2yarn magazines and this year they have a new story to tell. ‘We have out grown our Mayfair origins and moved to a new beautifully spacious shop. Situated by the corner of Chiltern Street, within an area renowned for its independent menswear focused retail, the location could not be better’, says Dashing tweeds Director Guy Hills. Dashing Tweeds design and weave modern wool fabrics, creates menswear collections, and offers a made to measure service. The aim of the brand is to bring more colour into menswear and modernise traditional tweed sportswear with the inclusion of technical reflective threads and fine specialist wools. All Dashing Tweeds cloth is woven in the UK by the finest mills. ‘We started Dashing with the simple aim to give men a greater choice of fabrics. The variety of cloths woven in Britain has dwindled over the years and we want to bring colour and texture back and to update traditional British tailored sportswear’, says Guy Hills. ‘We want
126 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
to bring tweed, the famous heritage sporting fabric into a modern urban environment. We modernise tweed by weaving technical yarns with Merino and British wools. Lumatwill is the name we have given our hi-vis tweeds which have retro reflective 3M yarns woven in, we also work with a variety of specialised yarns including Lurex, rubber, silk, linen and Japanese cotton. ‘Since our collaboration with Converse a few years ago we have the honour of being one of the few British cloth brands to be officially endorsed by Nike and regular collaborate on bespoke creations’, comments Holly Pressdee – Business Director. ‘Our Dashing team recently stopped by the Nike Lab office in East London to customise a pair of bespoke Nike Lab Air Force 1 sneakers from scratch. Using our latest AW18 cloth arrival, ‘Sweet’ which features coloured reflective yarn woven using merino wool throughout the cloth we decided to incorporate the newest design in the high top sneaker to give it a sophisticated yet casual look, making it wearable in any outfit.
Wool Carpets#Naturally GLOBAL TESTING WOOL CARPET FOCUS GROUP
New combs and an eye to the future
he crossbred wool market is quite complex’, comments Daniel Isbecque, joint Managing Director at the Curtis Wool Direct (CWD) group of companies. ‘Before the recent drop in price for crossbred wools the carpet sector struggled to retain market share in the face of stiff competition from synthetic fibres. As prices have come down, so demand from the contract sector for cruise ships, public buildings, and automotive industries including trains, buses, and airlines, has increased. They are all using wool and this is very encouraging for us’, he says. ‘Demand has come from across the globe and we continue to have a positive view for crossbred wools into the future, particularly as the green agenda gathers pace and architects and specifiers pay more attention to the fire retardant properties of wool and it’s other natural properties.’ Curtis Wool Direct supplies greasy and scoured wool, and tops to all parts of the textile industry worldwide, including carpet, hosiery, cloth, hand and machine knit, bedding and the non woven sectors. The company is a registered buyer of British Wool and continues to be the largest buyer, purchasing in excess of 50% of the annual clip. In addition to British Wool the company specialises in processing and exporting a wide range of other origin wools including, Norwegian, European, New Zealand, Real Shetland and significantly Irish wool. ‘With recent investments in Ireland we believe we are now the biggest buyer and
exporter of Irish wool and have two main warehouses in Ireland where we collect a large quantity of the Irish clip’, says Daniel Isbecque. CWD owns Haworth Combing plant and last year 14 new NSC Schlumberger ERA combing machines were installed as part of a long term investment policy. ‘The transition we made from old combs to new combs last year was seamless and they are exceeding our expectations’, says David Gisbourne, Managing Director of Haworth Combing and Haworth Scouring. They are much more efficient and productive whilst ensuring a consistently high quality. They deliver a superior and cleaner product with lower VM and increased length in tops. Feedback from our customers has been excellent. Haworth Combing has also invested in upgrading its testing lab, and has installed a new OFDA4000 along with a new
Daniel Isbecque (left), Tim Holgate(centre) and David Gisbourne at Haworth Combing Plant
128 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
spectophotometer for improved information about fibre quality and process performance. It has also become a member of Interwoollabs and is currently working towards test accreditation. ‘Our investments have made us more productive and we pass cost benefits directly on to our customers’, says Tim Holgate joint Managing Director at CWD. He further comments that ‘as the biggest wool merchant in the U.K. our customers expect us to deliver the wool they need, all year round, quickly, at very competitive prices, and with consistent high quality. Owning and operating our own scouring and combing facility is a key element to providing control over quality and logistics. It enables us to deliver a very diverse range of quality wool types on time, even at short notice, to customers worldwide. ‘ ‘Wool scoured at Haworth has an excellent Life Cycle Analysis and benefits from Enco environmental best practice certification,’ he says. ‘We focus on sustainability and our green credentials, in order to supply our customers
with wool processed and certified to the highest environmental standards. We provide GOTS and Oeko Tex accreditation and we hold ISO9001, ISO14001 and ISO50001 accreditations. ‘Continual improvementof the plant is key to future proofing the business and that is why we made significant investment to modernise our water treatment facility last year. We now believe we have one of the most effective water treatment plants in the world which is well placed to meet all current and foreseeable legislative challenges’, says David Gisbourne. The next major investment will be a new bale press which will be installed this summeras part of our ongoing plan to optimise production efficiencies.’ CWD has recently appointed Mark Johnson in New Zealand to handle sales of New Zealand wool. ‘His appointment shows our intention to grow our business in New Zealand and reinforces our reputation as a reliable supplier of New Zealand wool to our customers on the international market’, says Tim Holgate. Mark oversees the buying of wool in both the North and South Islands and has extensive experience in New Zealand wools. ‘Our procurement and trading activities in both the North and South Islands of New Zealand, enable our customers to rely on us as a one- stop-shop for all types of greasy to scoured wool and wool tops’, he says. Curtis Wool Direct Limited firstname.lastname@example.org; email@example.com
New NSC Schlumberger ERA combing machines
Something special something new fibre types at competitive prices, unbeatable quality, and quick delivery whatever the fibre origin. We can also advise customers about trends, demands, and availability.’ Europa Wools also stocks a large variety of other speciality fibres including silk and camel hair as well as a wide range of wool in combed tops, scoured and noils. ‘The capacity to hold a huge variety of stock throughout the year is something only a few companies are able to do. The recent trend by UK manufacturers has been to move away from keeping stock on hand. Richard Morsley
ach new season textile manufacturers are pressed to develop something different to retain and expand their market share. Sometimes this point of difference will be a colour, or a design, or a fibre, or a blend of different fibres. Striving to offer a product that is new and different has increased demand for speciality fibres according to Richard Morsley of Europa Wools UK. ‘We see a particular increase for Mohair and Alpaca fibres. We have expanded our product base in speciality fibres to facilitate this growing demand. We also try to stock rare breed wools from around the world for something a little bit different’, he says. ‘Our knowledge and expertise paves a way to sourcing and supplying many
130 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘They are comfortable knowing that we can deliver what they need, when they need it and if we don’t have a specific type and quantity in stock we will find it,’ points out Richard Morsley. ‘We have well established connections with many merchants around the world and can select the best wool and speciality fibres. And if preferred, customers can buy small or big quantities and store their orders at the company warehouse for delivery in small lots as they are needed’. For 30 years Europa Wools has been operating out of the heart of the UK wool industry region of West Yorkshire. It supplies over 1 million kgs of textile raw materials and is a leading stockist in the UK and Europe. It is a registered trader with the British Wool Marketing Board with access to all the British wool types at auction. Its stocks include a wide range of New Zealand types including lambs, slipes, fleeces and pieces and mainly carries average to good colour grades
ranging from 22 – 38 microns, with lengths of 1-3” up to 4-6” with low VM percentages. The bulk of its Australian wools are lamb and fleece types, ranging from 18 - 28 micron, with best style and good colour. VM is of no more than 0.3%. The company selects the best style, snow white fleeces for Falkland types and stock good length fleeces in microns ranging from 19 - 29 microns that are generally very clean fleeces at no more than 0.3% VM. Stocks also include South American wool in scoured form, open top and combed tops. ‘We commission scour any grade of greasy wools from a minimum of 100kgs up to large runs of any weight and Kroy Hercosett (superwash) scoured wool and combed wool tops, as well as combing most natural fibres. We can create blends from all natural and synthetic fibres. Other processes include garneting, carding, combing, precision cutting, random cutting, opening and pulling. Europa Wools can gill blend combed tops to create blends of many fibres, starting from as little as 10kgs sample runs up to large runs.From only 10kgs up to large runs, it can dye loose stock or tops for all types of natural and synthetic fibres. Using high tech colour matching systems it will match any colour that is required on most fibres.’We have a lot of experience in dyeing and we can be very competitive with a fast reliable service.’ Richard Morsley can be contacted for all fibre requirements at firstname.lastname@example.org
130 years and counting
radford based H Dawson has recently completed a reorganisation of its finances with new banking facilities provided by HSBC and an increase in shareholders’ funds of £2.45m.
Louise Kessel, Relationship Director at HSBC said “We are delighted to support Jo and his team by providing financial facilities, along with the shareholders, in order to deliver the exciting plans for the business”.
The 130 year old business is one of the most respected and experienced businesses in its sector, sourcing wool from over 35 countries and selling to a greater number throughout the world. Its products include noble fibres, greasy wool, scoured wool, wool tops and open tops that are transformed at carefully selected processing partners in strategic global locations.
The sectors in which H Dawson operates are increasingly aware of, and committed to, sustainability and traceability. Its R&D programme has been focussed on delivering wool-based solutions providing significant performance enhancement to customers along with vital environmental benefits.
Through four generations of Dawson family control the business has changed and evolved to take advantage of changing market conditions and its customer requirements. Recent times have been challenging for the coarse wool merchant sector with the traditional wool trading activities of H Dawson significantly affected. Under the leadership of Jo Dawson, CEO and majority shareholder, the business has been fundamentally reorganised enabling the traditional wool sourcing and supply activities to operate at a profitable and sustainable level and providing an industry leading level of service to its customers. Whilst the core and heritage of the business will continue to be its expertise in wool, the benefits of the new product development will become very significant over the coming years. Jo Dawson, said “The last two years have been challenging, but shareholders have absorbed the pain, re-focussed the business and accelerated the new developments with an exciting future in prospect”. 132 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We see ourselves as a genuine innovator, developing wool products including HD Wool® Active Insulation™, a natural, ecofriendly and biodegradable internal garment insulation for breathable performance and unmatched moisture management’, says Jo Dawson. ‘We also supply superior wool products our sister company, consumer natural homewares retailer Woolroom, supplying the finest wool products for better sleep and a happier, healthy life’. The H. Dawson team throughout the world is heavily involved in the drive to improve awareness of wool as a natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre. It uses its global network to secure a consistent supply of quality wool for clothing, interiors, soft-furnishings, carpets, environmental, engineering and industrial end uses. ‘To add further value to the good characteristics of wool we acquired the majority shareholding in Axminster Carpets in 2016’, he adds. The Axminster weave was invented in the Devon town of Axminster over 260 years ago and from this same town, Axminster Carpets still weaves beautifully designed wool carpets for the Royal Household, stately homes, luxury hotels and homes around the world’.
Smooth passage to China on behalf of growers and exporters throughout Eastern and Western Europe. So, we welcome European companies to contact us if they have wool they would like to sell to China’, says Graham Sugden. Graham has been in the wool trade for 40 years and has been working with many clients on long term basis.
hina is the biggest buyer of wool in the world, but selling wool into China is not a simple proposition’, says Graham Sugden of GS Wools. ‘The process can be difficult in terms of contacts and logistics. Matching the most appropriate wool type to the customer requires good contacts and knowledge of the wool industry in China. ‘We have been working in China for over 30 years and know how to sell in China, and to whom. We mostly export British and European wools to mills in China and we are also well placed to sell European wools
134 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘I feel that sustaining these long-term relationships goes to the core of our business honesty and integrity’, he says. Tom Sugden comments that providing a personalised service is central to their business model. GS Wools is very much a family business. Graham Sugden, son Tom and daughter Gina provide a personalised service. ‘Our company is not large and our margins are small so we can deliver quality wool at very competitive prices. We tailor orders to individual customer needs and work closely with each customer’, says Graham Sugden. G S Wools imports and exports greasy and scoured wool from Bradford,
United Kingdom. Its main export markets are China, Europe, and South America. GS Wools is registered buyer with the British Wool Marketing Board and all its exported wool is tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe. ‘We also buy wool from China and supply this to spinners in the UK and Europe. The wool is actually quite good and it is cheaper than British, New Zealand and European wools. We regularly hold stocks of 32-36 microns of good white Chinese fleece wool in our warehouse in the UK.’ We need to be reminded that China is one of the biggest producers of wool and some of that wool is of good quality and a cost effective option for blending with British or New Zealand wool. Some spinners in Europe have been using this wool for years’, comments Graham Sugden. ‘We are always happy to receive enquiries from buyers and sellers that are interested in tapping into our expertise in Chinese, British and European wools’. Mr Sugden can be contacted by email email@example.com
STANDARD WOOL WHERE WE LEAD, OTHERS FOLLOW. WITH OVER 200 YEARS INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE, STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY AND SERVICING MORE THAN 30 COUNTRIES WORLD WIDE, ITâ€™S NOT SURPRISING MORE AND MORE CUSTOMERS ARE TURNING TO US FOR ALL THEIR WOOL REQUIREMENTS. WWW.STANDARD-WOOL.CO.UK
STANDARD WOOL (UK) +44 (0)1274 756600 STANDARD WOOL (Nanjing) +86 25 5807 1182
PASSIONATE ABOUT WOOL
Investing in knowledge by Victor Chesky
ver the years I have met with Paul Hughes snr many times and while nothing stays the same continuity is clearly evident at Standard Wool UK. While it continues to dominate Crossbred wool processing and trading in the UK today it is Paul Hughes jnr that I am seeing more often than his father. During my last visit to Bradford I asked Paul jnr about the company’s longevity? ‘We continue to do what we do best – we just try to do it better every year!’ he quipped. ‘We continue to be a major supplier to global carpet yarn spinners and manufacturers, trading with over 30 countries worldwide. Our scouring facility processes over 22 million kgs of wool every year and we consistently purchase over 25% of the total UK wool clip.’
products and holds large stocks of scoured
Standard Wool UK offers a diverse range of
scoured wool, of any origin, within 5 days.’
and greasy wool of most origins including NZ, UK, South America, and Europe. It also offers commission processing from Thomas Chadwick & Sons and 100% Chilean tops from its facility in Punta Arenas. ‘Our Punta tops can be delivered to Biella next day and our customers can receive delivery of greasy or
Matthew Tinsley, Andrew Jones, Rebecca Spinks-Carter, Mark Powell, Dean Sugden, Pete Handley, Paul Hughes
136 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Today our customers tend to operate without in-house personnel with high levels of technical knowledge or experience in wool fibre’, he continues. ‘They rely on us to advise them on the best wools to suit their production. Our staff are expert in all stages of wool sourcing, processing and best blending, and offering this advice to our customers is integral to our business today’. Mark Powell, former COO at British Wool Marketing Board, who was instrumental in setting up BWMB sorting facility and protocols, joined Standard Wool UK two years ago. He has more than 30 years experience in British wool. ‘Our customers can provide us the specifications for the wool they require, whether for carpet or garment production. At Standard Wool UK we source the right wool, on budget, and blend it and scour it, fit for purpose’, he says. Gary Doherty from Standard Wool New Zealand comments ‘we source wool from all over New Zealand and specialise in scoured wool for carpet and knitting industries. We work closely with our head office in the UK to source the best wool New Zealand has to offer. Our wool is subject to hands-on testing by experienced company buyers prior to purchase, as well as rigorous independent quality control testing for yield, micron, colour and vegetable content, right through the scouring process.’
‘Blending wool and nylon is not new but we have created this new off the shelf product that customers can buy and blend to their own specifications. This blend combines strength and softness with durability and non skin irritation. It also reduces felting and shrinkage, all advantages to buyers. ‘100% wool tends to be more expensive than synthetic or mixed blends’, he says. Mixing wool with nylon helps reduce the cost of the yarn and fabric, and this saving can be significant. ‘Our ability to process wool using our own machinery in the UK and Chile is an important point of difference between Standard Wool UK and other wool companies. We are able to maintain control throughout the whole process’, says Paul Hughes. ‘Our business is quite diverse’, he remarks. ‘We have a strong young team and our major investment always includes human knowledge. This really sums up our philosophy and the way we do business, and it has been working successfully for us for a long time now’.
New blend from Thomas Chadwick ‘Our Thomas Chadwick & Sons employ 55 highly skilled workers. We have developed a new blend of wool and nylon’, says Mark Andrews, Production Director. ‘Wool is a strong fibre suitable for carpets and corporate use, combined with the additional strength of nylon to keep it in shape and aid durability for heavy use. The weaknesses of one fibre is countered by the strengths of the other’.
Scouring facility at Thomas Chadwick & Sons
100% Chilean tops Dean Sugden General Manager Standard Wool Chile
tandard Wool UK is the largest buyer of wool in Chile and offers its customers 100% Chilean top. ‘Our recent investment in new NSC combs allows us to maintain our quality and produce cleaner and more regular sliver’, says Paul Hughes jnr. ‘This also allows us to deliver this quality product quickly’. ‘We source Chilean wool from 450 wool growers in Chile including Corriedale and Merino fleece. At the start of every wool season our wool buyers take the time to visit individual farmers in Patagonia. This is something that is often overlooked, but we believe that valuing the wool on a visual basis rather than only looking at a test certificate is very important’, he says. Standard Wool complies with IWTO Guidelines for Wool Sheep Welfare in its purchase contracts with wool producers. ‘Chilean wool is not mulesed and we actively promote good animal welfare practices. As the largest buyer in the region it is important we deliver this message’, he says. The most important wools in terms of quantity and quality are produced in the south of the country. The original and best Punta Arenas Super Fleeces Top has a soft handle, super strength, low vegetable matter and exceptional length and meets Oeko-Tex Standard 100 - Product Class 1. It is snow white colour and is especially popular for knitwear manufacturers. Standard Wool Chile offers long tops, noils, and high grade wool grease. Products include Super Fleeces, Porvenir Fleeces and Natales
138 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
with a range of 20 to 30 microns. It also supplies Falkland Islands tops and scoured wool produced from 100% Falkland Islands farms. All Standard Wool Chile wool products are rigorously and continuously tested at Interwoollab-approved laboratory within its Chilean processing facility. ‘We bring together our knowledge in local wools and technological innovation, operational flexibility and forward-thinking attitudes to deliver the best in scoured wool and wool tops’, says Dean Sugden General Manager Standard Wool Chile (SWC). ‘Our facility at Punta Arenas buys 60%-70% of the entire Chilean clip each year. Trading of Chilean ‘Punta’ tops is handled by Jacomb Hoare & Co, a Yorkshire-based division of Standard Wool and one of the world’s oldest and most respected wool companies whose involvement in South American wool dates back to 1793. Dean Sugden can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
www.simonsays.co.za | 8611
Cape Wool has been produced from Merino sheep at the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa since 1789.
South Africa provides a fantastic natural environment for raising Merino in a caring fashion.
South African Merino Wool is globally acclaimed for exceptional quality apparel wool and well classed for the international markets.
Tel: +27 41 484 4301 email@example.com | www.capewools.co.za
South African Wool Demand Keeps Growing
outh Africa is the 4th largest wool producing country in the world and the second largest producer of fine Merino wool, after Australia. Wool production in South Africa in 2017 was 27 million kilos clean but this dropped to 25.1 million this year, due to the severe drought. The forecast for 2019 is 25.8 million kilos, an increase of +2.7%. Finer wool prices have increased around the world and in South African wool growers have experienced an increase in prices of over 40% over the last 12 - 18 months. In July 2018 South African wool grower CH Wagenaar received the seasonal record high price of R230 per kg / USD16.96 per kg (greasy) for a bale of 16,8 micron wool brokered by BKB. It is expected that increased demand for Merino wool worldwide and tight supply will see these prices steady for the foreseeable future. The South African clip is predominantly Merino. Between 65 - 75% of this clip is fleece wools with the balance being made up of locks, belly wools, and lambs’ wool. It is high yielding, with more than 60% of the clip yielding at least 60% clean. Seed contamination is limited, with more than 80% of the clip normally exhibiting very low levels (2% or less). The majority of the South African clip is 17 - 24 micron with more than 98% of the clip finer than 24 microns. ‘The good fibre diameter and fibre length makes it an ideal fibre for top makers for spinning into any conceivable commercial yarn by the apparel industry. It is also suited to soft against the skin products in fabric or knitwear’, says Louis de Beer General Manager Cape Wools SA. Cape Wools is the official industry representative organisation of the South African Wool Industry, representing the collective interests of wool producers, wool buyers and processors, wool brokers and traders, small stock breeders, labour force, and the wool testing group. It
140 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
south africa S
In a recent initiative Cape Wools and Vodafone SA have joined forces to develop a new security devise that is designed to protect the flock from theft. It will be marketed to wool growers by Vodafone to add an additional level of security and safety for the sheep. George de Kock, Chairman at Cape Wools comments that ‘our aim objective has always been to stimulate wool production in South Africa through good farming practices to keep the quality of our wool to the highest standard. Meticulous classing has always been an important aspect of wool harvesting process in South Africa. The Code of Best Practice has contributed to great improvements in wool classing. One of the most important criteria of the Code is for the classer to obtain
evenness of any measured or immeasurable properties within an individual line. Thus, minimum variation around properties such as micron, length, strength, vegetable matter (VM), yield, quality and appearance, is critically important’.
Or to der # certi re ficat feren e # ced
o en de non- sure certvelope mul the in on ifica d fu esed tegr its this te. Th rthe decla ity of auth docu is r re ratio So entic men will finem n Ca uth ity t as increa ents pe Afric on ther se to Woo a’s each e ls th its do is no e relia non- has cum w fu nc mul ent. rthe e pl esed r pr aced oo f of
Ce nu rtific mer ate ica # un lly sequique encely d
ww w.s imo nsa ys.c o.z a|
works closely with Australian Wool Innovation on a number of projects on past the farm gate and in genetic work to continue improvements in farm practices, wool handling, and clip preparation. It is also a primary supporter of the Campaign for Wool.
CE A N RT ON IFI -M CA TE UL INI ES TIA ED TIV E
NE BA W W SE E
DD B Ex ATA da ternal ba taba clien BA SE nu sed onse on ts certimber or the can se ficat as weder nuweb arch e fo ll as mbeinterfa the r th pr r, eir int certi ce reco a co fic rds. py ate of th e
QR to code we b re scan giste s th r roug h 4 43 01 | ca pe wo ol@ cape
17 pa 0Gsm per qu sto ality ck
In 2016 Cape Wools introduced nonmulesing certification for South African wool. This certification automatically provides an important level of assurance to spinners and weavers, and retailers and their customers, in relation to the ethical treatment of the sheep’, says Louis de Beer. ‘Our certification initiative is further proof of the quality of our wool and the information on our website is freely available to all along the supply chain. Tel: +2
|w ww. cape wo ols.c o.z a
Un to ique regi # ste tyin r # g up
Much of the South African clip is shorn by hand as wool growers prefer this method to machine shearing for better animal welfare. Many shear twice a year to achieve shorter length wool, currently in demand by spinners and weavers. ‘We continue to develop strong education programs particularly in shed preparation pre shearing, and shearing. We believe that our South African farmers must have a passion for wool at the farm level. Working to maintain this passion into the next generation of South African wool growers is a priority for us, concludes George de Kock.’
South African wool in demand in China How the wool trading scenario has changed in the Cape
The Stucken wool buying team Lisa Bouttell & Werner Gerber
outh Africa has always had a reputation for delivering a well classed merino wool clip to topmakers world -wide except to China where its wool was unknown until the mid - 1990â€™s. A wide range of microns and staple lengths ensure that South African wools can be processed into a large and divers range of fine wool products. Its inherent high staple strength, low within lot variation and low vm content, combing fleeces produce excellent tops characterised by low short fibre values and low CV% of Hauteur values. Historically it was the release of Nelson Mandela in 1992 that ended a 25- year Chinese boycott of South African wool. Trade sanctions were officially lifted a year later and the first exports of wool tops from SA to China were
142 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
recorded in the 1993/4 season. But it took more than the lifting of sanctions to convince Chinese topmakers of the good qualities of South African grease wool when at that time nothing could match the reputation of Australian fleeces. Finally, the first trial containers of grease wool were shipped from SA to China during the 1997/8 wool season and some further quantities in the years that followed.This remained a sporadic business until2005. Topmakers in China that began to use South African Merino wool soon found that they were achieving a product that was well suited to apparel products in worsted, semi worsted and woollens. The good fibre diameter and fibre length distribution make these wool
MO H A I R S P I N N E R S SO U T H AF R I C A
The generally dry, semi-arid growing conditions experienced in South Africa dramatically reduce the incidence of fly-strike and consequently mulesing is not needed. “This is a further reason why topmakers prefer South African wool for the tops they export, particularly to Europe and the USA where non-mulesing certification is required”, says Anthony Kirsten, joint CEO of the Stucken Group.
the oldest wool processor in SA. The wool landscape in SA had changed to the extent that by 2018, the long history of wool combing in South Africa, still amounting to approx.15mill kgs at the turn of the century, had all but come to a sad end. TheStucken Groupfound themselves the only remaining wool processor in the country, still supplying world markets with carbonised wool for the woollen industry.
Exports of SA greasy wool to China began in earnest with 6500 tons in that year, jumping initially by 30% annually and later by 10% each year, reaching 35000 tons of greasy wool shipped to China in 2017. As the Chinese appetite for SA greasy wool increased, so the supply of raw material to local topmakers decreased, making them uncompetitive on international markets. This was not good news for the Stucken Group,
Most recently Stucken & Co in South Africa have become registered as a RWS chain of custody supplier, highlighting their commitment to react to client requirements and cementing their reputation as a trusted partner in wool.
tops suitable for spinning into any conceivable commercial yarn count required by the apparel sector and were ideally suited for soft against the skin products in fabric or knitwear.
TRACEABILITY AND WELFARE -
a straight forward practice
onsumers at the retail level are increasingly interested in the story behind wool. They want to know where the wool has come from, and they want to know about the fibres’ environmental credentials. ‘Users of South African wool can be confident that the wool we send them is non-mulesed’, says Paul Lynch of Standard Wool South Africa. ‘We can provide a new Verification Certificate, issued by Cape Wools SA to authenticate non-mulesed wool’. ‘South African wool has a very low CVH and very regular length and is suitable for top and yarn manufacturers. It is known for its excellent colour and measures between 60 - 69 Y units on the brightness
144 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
scale. These attributes also make it ideal to blend with Australian wool’. ‘We have been trading wool in South Africa for a very long time and our knowledge and experience in South African wool is of course an advantage. The knowledge we can share with top makers around the world, providing advice and information about the best use for South African wool types for processing to particular specifications, is second to none’, comments Mark Wright joint managing director at Standard Wool South Africa. ‘While South African wool does not have the same specifications in yield and vm as Australian wool, users know that if used correctly South African wool will perform just as well or even better’. Standard Wool SA also sources wool from the Transkei and Ciskei where farming is more of a subsistence nature but due to the increase in prices in recent years, the quality and quantity
in these areas is consistently increasing year on year. The company is privately owned and has no links to any top making company. All exported wool is tested by an independent IWTO-accredited laboratory (Wool Testing Bureau of South Africa) and IWTO test certificates are used as a basis of trading as per the international norm. ‘The commercial landscape of the world wool industry is ever changing’, says Paul Lynch. ‘The wool industry is South Africa is very stable but not immune to change. One of our biggest clients has now entered the trading arena in South Africa with a new office established by Tianyu very recently’. ‘For us however it is business as usual and we continue to create new business partnerships around the world including new opportunities in China. We remain one of the largest exporters of wool from South Africa to China and to India. We are a large enough company to guarantee supply, but we are not too big to compromise on quality or
Mark Wright (left) and Paul Lynch
service. Our customers also know that our wool prices are always competitive and we make sure that the correct wool is bought for each individual client’.
STANDARD WOOL •S
New team same Lempriere service
t is only a year since Peter Carey took up his new role as Lempriere South Africa’s trading manager. ‘Our new young team has settled in well and it is business is as usual’, he comments. ‘We continue to export all types of wool from South Africa including fleece and carding wool, as well as native wools from South Africa and merino from Lesotho. We experienced considerable delay in the sale of the Lesotho clip this season however the wool has now been sold and the improving quality trend of recent years has been maintained. We expect the demand for Lesotho wool to grow as it is one of the few areas that continue to offer wool of full 12 months length’. ‘Our office was established less than ten years ago and it is an integral component of the Lempriere global supply network. Our main export market is China and we have developed strong relationships within the local brokering network to enable us to supply consistent quality and quantity’, he says. ‘Our team continues to provide the best in Lempriere service. ‘South African Wool is known for its good colour; low VM and excellent processing performance. The majority of the wools we purchase are in the 19.0 to 23 micron range and we cover all types for carding and combing needs. We are able to purchase on indent and offer firm for prompt delivery as required by the market. Most South African farms have very high staffing levels in comparison 146 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
to Australia and New Zealand and this is a contributing factor to most sheep being shorn at 6, 8 or 10 month intervals, the more frequent shearing is making it difficult to supply the real needs of the market, however the farmers find that this best suits the production model. ‘This enables us to offer consistent volume and quality year round. A large percentage of the South African clip is still shorn by hand and this is valued by producers that insist on good animal welfare practices. South African sheep are nonmulesed and on request Lempriere South Africa can offer non-mulesed certification’. Meticulous classing of South African wool is also a very important aspect of wool preparation and these factors account for an increased demand for South African wool. International buyers are increasingly drawn to sustainability, traceability and animal welfare. ‘We offer practical solutions from farm to retail with close associations at all levels of the local supply chain’, says Peter Carey.’There is only a short lead time from auction to shipment and we see our operation here in South Africa as complimentary to Australia as a valuable supply source’. All wools purchased by Lempriere South Africa are tested by an Interwoollabs accredited wool testing house. Peter Carey can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
Fleece is separated according to fineness and quality - completing the first link of a sound traceability system
Commitment to sustainability ‘Our commitment to sustainability, traceability, and good farming practices is a win-win for all. Uruguayan sheep are the happiest on earth, our farmers and their working communities are thriving, and our customers receive the best tops Uruguay can offer’, says Pedro Otegui Managing Director Lanas Trinidad. ‘At Lanas Trinidad we treat every customer personally. Each customer has specific needs and we tailor our service accordingly’, he says. ‘If you are not buying your 100% Uruguayan tops from us, I urge you to give us a go!’. Lanas Trinidad is the biggest topmaker in Uruguay and exports wool tops and scoured wool worldwide. It is also the biggest exporter of grease, exporting some 500 tons for use by the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. The Lanas Trinidad plant in the city of Trinidad 148 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
has the capacity to produce around 10,000 tons of quality combed wool tops annually. Its offers tops in 17 - 32 microns available in rolls or bumps of different weights for different customers worldwide. It also offers traceable wool tops to customer requirement. Non-mulesing certification is also available and all tops are packaged in a non-polluting polyethylene film. ‘In Uruguay sheep are king’, says Pedro Otegui. ‘Living conditions at farm is excellent all year around including natural grass pastures, water supply, weekly controls, and veterinary care. In Uruguay there is no snow, no desert, no mountains, and no strong winds. Farmers adhere to animal welfare protocols, and there is no mulesing practiced. It is a self-sustainable environment, ideal for sheep breeding. These
conditions allow Uruguay to produce excellent quality wools. ‘We operate without polluting the environment and run our plants using clean and renewable energy. Our wool scouring process is performed with biodegradable detergents. And our combing process only uses sizing oils and biodegradable antistats’, says Pedro Otegui. ‘To wash our wool we use our own water supply system that is wholly sourced from rainwater. Our reservoir has a capacity of 1 million cubic metres of water that is supplied through an aqueduct some 7km long. The water is natural and renewable’. A clean green image is important to Lanas Trinidad. Production processes are ISO 9001-2008 (LATU/ IQnet/OQS) certified as well as GOTS Standard / IMO for organic wool certification, ISO 14001 - 2008 for environmental management and OHSAS 18001 -2007 for occupational safety, and Oeko-tex standard certification 100. It operates testing
laboratories that are Interwoollab certified. Uruguay is member of International Labour Organization (ILO). ‘Separating and sorting fleeces for the right application is one of the most important aspects of our process. Most of our wool is sourced from farms that we have known for generations. We know their family, we know their wool, and this enables us to offer our customers perfect traceability of our tops - we know exactly where it has come from’, says Mr Otegui. ‘Lanas Trinidad offers its customers a full traceability program from farm to wool containers ready for delivery. ‘Our customers can choose to use our own comprehensive traceability certification. We are also now shipping RWS certified wool tops. For more information about Lanas Trinidad – Email: CwUruguay@wtp.com.uy www.lanastrinidad.com ‘In Uruguay sheep are king’
Tops Fray Marcos takes leading role
n 2017 Tops Fray Marcos consolidated its position as one of two main wool export companies in Uruguay. ‘This was not a strategic target for our company, but a consequence of our strong investment and commitment in new product development, and our understanding of the needs and goals of each client. Through innovation and commitment we have built our company to its present position as a leading wool exporter’, says Facundo Ruvira.
Founded in 1986 Tops Fray Marcos is now a major Latin American regional player. Led by Martin Perez del Castillo, whose vision is now stamped into the next generation by Nicolas Perez del Castillo and Facundo Ruvira. ‘“Tops Fray” - as we are known in Asia, operate on this experience and family tradition but with the flexibility of modern management practices. ‘Our company exports more than 70% of total scoured wool from Uruguay, and we have even greater targets going forward. We have built a strong image for quality through both our product development and strategic alliances. Our final aim is to produce high quality wool tops. ‘Our strong supply network facilitates our annual 10 million kg wool supply. This is complemented by our young dynamic management team, with an average age that has dropped from 52 to 40 years. Training is one of the main strategies we use to assist new staff.’ ‘We also continually invest in clean energies and industrial facilities as key points in our
150 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
evolution. In 2016 our scouring mill was awarded the “National Energy Efficiency Award”. We strongly believe that wool should be treated with ecology in mind, and more recently we have been promoting this and animal welfare concerns to country institutions and wool growers.’ Concepts in a circular economy are being applied in all processes and facilities managed by the company. Effluent is treated and degraded through biological treatment ponds. Dry solids, vegetable, dust and micro fibre residues are composted within the 120 ha company facility. ‘A wind turbine producing 85% of the electricity needed reduces our carbon footprint and further enhances the positive impact we have made to the environment.
Irrigated forestry has been cultivated inside the company grounds and its timber is now used to generate energy for our boiler. The company produce wool tops in 18 – 32 microns, and greasy and scoured wool, super fleece, bellies and lambs wool, as well as noils from 17 – 29 microns. Five quality grades are available, giving customers the opportunity to choose the wool most appropriate to their quality and price concerns. ‘Lasting business relationships is one of the main commercial policies that can be sustained in both good times and in bad times. No matter whether you are an upholstery manufacturer, or produce felting, tweed or worsted products we can provide to your requirements’, concludes Facundo Ruvira. Tops Fray Marcos can be contacted at Tel: +598 2606 2222 Email: email@example.com
Fray Marcos s.a. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Greener pastures From farm to customer - quality, traceability and credibility in Uruguay Wools
raceability and environmental credentials are very important factors for spinners and weavers today.
Estancias Puppo exports directly from farms to customers worldwide. Knowing which farm the wool comes from gives manufacturers control over fiber supply and enables them to build a story around their products. Uruguay sheep graze on open natural pastures with excellent animal husbandry practices. The country is free of mulesing and the climate is temperate, providing conditions and an excellent environment for high quality wool production, ensuring good staple length,
152 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
very low VM (under 0.3%), an average dry yield of 77%, and no coloured dark fibers or contaminants. Estancias Puppo began exporting in 2002, increasing its volume every year, and today it is the main exporter of greasy wool in 24 microns and finer. â€œThe main aim of Estancias Puppo is to ensure quality and therefore 90% of the wool we export is certified â€œgreen labelâ€?. This is a mark of distinction in shearing and sorting and there is no blending of different categories, thus ensuring credibility, and help the wool pipeline to run fluently, efficiently and to provide top
makers with wool they can process confidently to achieve the highest standards required’, Mr. D’jalma Puppo said. Wools are tested by Latu (accredited IWTO testing laboratory). Uruguay is free of mulesing and this is verified in the State Health Certificate. “Wool orders can be packed and shipped in a matter of days from the date that the order is placed” said Mr Puppo. “We have hosted wool industry visitors from around the world that are interested in seeing our beautiful natural landscape and we welcome customers from Asia and Europe to visit our farm and see our natural wool production for themselves,” he concludes.
D’Jalma Puppo and Margarita Cortabarria
Environmental concerns dominate agenda ‘Environmental credentials continue to dominate the European textile trade. Premium European brands are challenged to meet consumer demand for transparent evidence of traceability and sustainability’, says Piercarlo Zedda, joint company director at Pantex spa in Biella, Vice-President of International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), and current president of the Italian Wool Trade Association. Pantex is a one-stop-shop with warehouse facilities in Biella, with in-stock options ready for immediate delivery. ‘We hold large stocks and offer all wool types including wools from Australia, South America, New Zealand, and South Africa. Customers have been coming to us for many years and our standard types are very consistent’, he says.
taly is the world’s fifth-largest fabric exporter, after China, India, the USA and Germany. It remains a key design and manufacturing hub for woollen products. The wool sector grew by 2.7% last year and Italian brands continue to be a dominant influence in fashion, especially in menswear, as strong partnerships are made with brands. ‘We know that consumers at retail are more and more influenced by sustainability and traceability concerns’, says Piercarlo Zedda. ‘As an industry we are working to address these issues through IWTO. Pantex is a major supplier to brands in Italy and the feedback that we get from these customers clearly shows that these concerns are taken seriously.’ Pantex is accredited with Associazione Tessile e Salute and participates in the textile and health project funded by the Italian Ministry of Health. ‘This accreditation is aimed at giving visibility and recognition to companies operating in compliance with European laws and regulations. It is designed to protect both consumers and the environment. It also aims to increase the value of the Made in Italy label and reinforce the notion of product excellence. 154 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
The company has been supplying spinners and weavers in Europe for 46 years. It provides wools for combed and carded spinning for knitting and weaving, blankets, furnishings and feltings as well as tops, open tops, scoured wool of all origins, carbonized wool and wool blends, raw noils and carbonized noils, and combing, spinning and weaving wool wastes. Pantex can meet customers requirements with specific blends tailored to specific customers needs. ‘Even if you buy from others suppliers we recommend that you have a look at what we have to offer’, says Giovanni Zedda. All wool is classified at the plant, and long term contracts are available, as well as oneoff in-stock buying from Pantex warehouses. All wool is tested at its own laboratory that is Interwoollabs accredited. ‘All fibre and tops are re-tested again before delivery to customers. You get exactly what you ordered’, says Giovanni Zedda. Piercarlo Zedda and Giovanni Zedda can be contacted by email at firstname.lastname@example.org
Add to cart
Tap into non mulesed wool on demand ‘We have immediate access to non mulesed wool and wool tops from Argentina and Uruguay’, says Mauro Trapella of Laniera Italiana. ‘Australian merino wool has been increasing in price. We can source wool for spinners and weavers interested in alternative wool supplies from South America, Eastern Europe, Spain, and even China’. Laniera Italiana offers wool, wool tops, scoured wool, carbonized wool, greasy wool and noils of various origins and various types. It also offers its customers speciality fibres including cashmere, mohair, alpaca, llama, angora hair, silk, camel hair, vicuna, guanaco, and yak hair. Laniera Italiana customers include worsted and carding spinning mills for knitting, weaving and hand knitting sectors including apparel, upholstery, drapery, blankets, top-making, carpets, and felt manufacturers.
‘Our office is based in Biella, in the heart of the wool industry district, in the middle of Europe, enabling quick access to both Eastern and Western European clients’, says Maura Trapella. ‘We can source the fibre required by our customers quickly, as we know what the market situation is at ground level. We have direct links to a wide variety of products and can assist our customers to take advantage of current price opportunities and stock availability’. ‘We also represent leading wool and top exporters from Australia, New Zealand, China, Uruguay, and Argentina and have good supply routes into Spain and Portugal. We work with our clients on the best ways to import sufficient quantities of wool and tops for their use at the right time and at the most competitive price.’ Traditionally Laniera Italiana has focuses on Australian wool from 14.5 micron to 21 micron. ‘This type of wool is still in great demand by our customers in Italy but we are increasingly being asked to source wool from South American. South American merino wool types provide options from coarse types to clean types for light colours and standard types and this is a big part of our business today ‘. ‘We can provide wool tops treated as Superwash, Total Easy Care, Basolan, Mercerized, and Soft Lustre. APEO FREE, NPEO, REACH, OEKO -TEX. (CITES per VICUNIA e GUANACO) certification is available if required.
156 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Finding the best fibre ‘The increasing cost of wool over the last 12 months makes it even more important than ever to find the right supplier that can deliver the right wool at the right prices’, says MauroDelorenzi Director of Greystone Wools, and executive committee member of the Associazione Nazionale del Commercio Laniero (Italian Wool Trading Association). ‘To sell textile products in Europe, whether scoured wool, carbonized wool or tops, the right connections are essential. We have our finger on the pulse when it comes to sourcing wool and tops of all origins. We have been supplying spinners and weavers in Italy for over 20 years.’
W supplies wool for knitting and weaving, blankets, furnishings and feltings to all major brands in Italy and Europe offering a variety of stock including tops, open tops, scoured and carbonised wools from all origins as well as noble fibers such as dehaired cashmere and dehaired cashmere tops and angora.
says Mr Delorenzi. For more information Mauro Delorenzi can be contacted in Biella Tel. 039 015 8497172 E.email@example.com
‘We can assist customers by sourcing the fibre they need for the manufacture of any type of product including coarser types to finer types and in most instances we can deliver within days if prompt delivery is required’, he says. ‘Customers can contact us for their particular requirement types. ‘I would be very happy to speak with new customers to help them determine the most suitable wool for their requirements. We are always interested in establishing contact with exporters of wool and speciality fibre and manufacturers of tops and noils from around the world’, wool2yarnglobal 2018
Changing times changing focus
n the 36 years that Pierluigi Mazzia has been working in the fibres and textile industry there have been many changes. ‘Times have changed and the emphasis on environmental issues is playing an ever more important part in consumer decision making. Today, buying products, all the way to retail, with clear traceability labelling, is all important’, says Pierluigi Mazzia, CEO at Padbrook UK.
‘At Padbrook we work with the leading textile companies around the world and source from the best topmakers in China and South America. We can offer full traceability and certification including ISO 9001, ICEA, OEKO-TEX certification if required. Padbrook can supply all types of natural fibres such as mohair, alpaca, angora, cashmere, camel hair, cashgora, vicuña, guanaco, yak and silk , but its most important speciality is wools from different origins such as Australia, Argentina, Europe, South Africa, Turkey, Uruguay and New Zealand. The company can
also supply a full range of different treatments including Super Wash, Total Easy Care, Soft Luster, Basolan and Mercerised. It also supplies dyed tops from customers color requirements, as well as flame retardant and water repellent treatments. ‘Any company that would like to sell their textile products into Europe should stay in contact with us’, says Pierluigi Mazzia. ‘We are in almost daily contact with most textile manufacturing companies, weavers and spinners in Italy, Turkey, Morocco and many other countries’. Padbrook has branches in the UK, Morocco, Turkey, and China. ‘We welcome enquiries from companies around the world that are looking for reliable and experienced representatives Padbrook LTD can be contacted at Via Nassa 36, 6900 Lugano Switzerland Tel: +41 916081515 M: +41 791387069 Skype: pigimazzia1 www.padbrook.com
158 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Bridging a gap from East to West Mert Atakoglu of Mafilo Tekstil in Istanbul Turkey is able to make the best use of his geographical position - ideally located at the crossroads between East and West. Turkey offers a number of advantages. As well as being positioned between east and west it also has a developed wool textile industry in fabric and apparel, and is the third largest mohair producer in the world. hand knitting yarn, open end/ring and semi-worsted and woolen carpet yarns. ‘In the past Australia was known as the main wool supplying country’, says Mr Atakoglu. ‘With Australian wool prices increasing dramatically we can provide a competitive alternative that includes wools from a variety of origins including Uruguay, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand, as well as from Australia. We provide a reliable service, fast delivery, and competitive prices’. ‘Currency forecasts that the USD will be much stronger in the future against the Turkish Lira. This will make Turkish textile exports more competitive and we expect Turkish spinners to gain strength on the export market into the future’.
urkey offers a well educated labour force, liberal trade policies and free trade agreements with countries in the region. Istanbul is on the doorstep of Europe, and textile manufacturers in Turkey are increasing their fibre consumption every year. Mafilo Tekstil supplies Turkish mills with all types of wool and speciality fibre for worsted weaving yarn, flat knitting yarn, fancy yarn,
Mafilo Tekstil also supplies New Zealand scoured wool, Australian carbonised wool, as well as tops from Uruguay and Argentina. It also sells silk, cashmere and angora to major textile producers in Turkey. ‘Our customers are never in the dark, they know exactly which country their wool comes from, and from which supplier’, says Mert Atakoglu. ‘We are transparent in all of our dealings. We encourage Turkish spinning mills to contact us when they require competitive and on-time supply’. Mert Atakoglu is a third generation family member to be involved in textiles. ‘We know the Turkish wool industry well and can represent overseas companies wishing to sell their products to the Turkish textile industry’, he comments. ‘If you are interested in doing business in Turkey please contact us’.
WOOL MOHAIR CASMERE SILK ALPACA ANGORA MAFILO TEKSTIL - Cumhuriyet Cad No 189/8 34367 Harbiye Istanbul TURKEY Email firstname.lastname@example.org Tel. + 90 212 296 83 47 Fax + 90 212 296 77 38 wool2yarnglobal 2018
Alternative options from
KEL Tekstil has been exporting greasy and scoured wool from Turkey to customers in Europe and Asia for over 30 years. Its customer base includes manufacturers of carpet, and bedding products and the worsted sectors. The company offers greasy and scoured wools in the 22 - 40 micron range. It is particularly well known as a supplier of Turkish and Romanian scoured wool. ‘We have been supplying greasy and scoured wool to spinners in Italy, Portugal and Belgium for many years and have the experience and knowledge to source and deliver the right wool’, says Baris Gelenbe of Akel Tekstil from his Istanbul office. ‘We produce good quality scoured wool and compete in both quality and price with the best processors around the world. We are the only Turkish company to supply 20.2 micron scoured wool, approved by accredited wool testing house certification’. The company operates a scouring plant in the Turkish city of Usak. It has a scouring capacity of 25 metric tons per day with two scouring lines. The scouring lines now have 8, 2 metre wide pools and dust machines. The result is a better quality output and a capacity to supply 3500MT scoured wool & 5000MT greasy 160 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
wool per annum. Large warehousing facilities complement this scouring facility. This scouring plant also processes a variety of wools from European, Australia, New Zealand and Britain. The wool is sorted and processed on commission, as well as for the company’s own use. Turkey is ideally located between East and West and transportation is straightforward. Usak is one of the busiest ports in Turkey. ‘Delivery of both greasy and scoured wool from our Usak plant is handled with speed and we are happy to send small shipments if needed, working with customers both big and small. The wool we deliver is always as per sample and we stand by the quality of our wool’, he says. With the cost of finer micron wool increasing in cost dramatically blending with cheaper wools has become a necessity for some manufacturers. ‘We can supply wools that can be blended with New Zealand and Australian wool to reduce cost. We can advise our customers about the best wools for blending to achieve their particular manufacturing needs’, says Baris Gelenbe. ‘We have an excellent ability to source wool in Turkey, Romania, and throughout Eastern and Western Europe and have a good firsthand knowledge of these wools. We are happy to visit customers to personally see their machinery and discuss which wool types will achieve the best result.’ To find out more about the wools supplied by Akel Tekstil please contact Baris Gelenbe at email@example.com, firstname.lastname@example.org
Continued demand for German wool ‘After two challenging years for Northern European wools, this year started on a more positive note for us’, says John Semmelhaak of Friedrich Sturm Wool, the largest exporter of German Merino wool. ‘Our fine wools continue from 28 - 30 microns continue to do well, and sales in Crossbred wools from 34 - 36 microns are now starting to look up’.
here have been a number of factors that compounded the lack of demand in Crossbred wools, that included an increasing substitution of acrylic and
other synthetic fibres, as well as a stockpile in China. ‘However today German wool is being used in a wider range of applications and so our exposure to the decrease in this demand has been minimised. Wool as a natural and
162 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
sustainable fibre is starting to appeal to a larger consumer base, an appeal that the carpet manufacturing sector already recognises. Wools’ specific characteristics are also finding their mark in special upholstery applications including aviation and other industrial transport applications. It is also being used by more exclusive manufacturers for tweed fabric. ‘We source
this very special type of wool from selected German farms. The clip is not large but we are adding value to this type of wool. It is specially sorted, with traceability back to the farm. We are always interested in establishing joint venture arrangements with suitable manufacturing companies to partner with us in developing exclusive finished products such as tweed fabric’, he says. The East and South of Germany produce 3000 - 4000 tons of wool every year - and about 70% of this is at the finer end. German wool has been very consistent in quality regarding low VM, length and colour. Germany has a long history in farming and manufacturing and today the textile and clothing industry in Germany is an integral part of the economy. ‘Our German farmers
are producing better quality wools due to strengthening farming practices. We promote the wool story from farm to retail to attract specialty consumers keen on technical attributes’, he says. ‘We provide our customers with the high level of assurance in quality and compliance with their specifications. All wool lots are sorted and tested by Wool Testing Authority Europe (WTAE).When we export German wool to our clients they know that it is 100% German wool. We do not sell blended wools’, he points out. ‘Despite the limited availability of our wool it has found its place in many markets around the world.’ John Semmelhaak can be contacted at email@example.com
JOMA® Wool - naturally better
oma Wool® is a specialty product, created by leading New Zealand wool exporter John Marshall & Co for manufacturers of mattress and bedding products worldwide.
A high quality natural fibre, Joma Wool® is fully traceable and grown in New Zealand. Unlike other wools, it undergoes a special crimping process that adds considerablebulk, strength and resilience. ‘When our customers open a bag of Joma Wool® they’re always surprised at how it jumps out to resume its original volume. The crimping process gives it a springiness and loft that makes it ideal for mattresses and bedding products”, says Peter Crone, Managing Director of John Marshall & Co. In addition to being natural and sustainable, Joma Wool® offers customers a host of other benefits. All Joma Wool® is thoroughly cleaned and non-allergenic, making it ideal for customers who are allergic to feather and down or who suffer a reaction to synthetic bedding products. It is also available treated with UltraFresh, an antimicrobial, antifungal treatment for added protection.
164 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We believe that synthetic fibre products are no match for wool when it comes to bedding products. Our specially processed wool has extra crimp and an increased bulk of 40% to 50% which further enhances its natural resilience. Each fibre functions as a miniature spring and the vertical alignment of the fibres and crimp work together to create a cushion under the body that facilitates air circulation’, says Peter Crone. Promoting a natural and ethically sourced product is important to the John Marshall & Co business. ‘Our wool comes from farmers who abide by strict rules and regulations around animal welfare, and mulesing is against the law in New Zealand.’ Joma® Wool meets strict Oeko-Tex 100 standards. Peter Crone is a longstanding believer in the value of wool. ‘We promote the development of wool to ensure that its physical benefits are matched by its economic and technical performance’, he says.’Our Joma® Wool ticks all the boxes for bedding manufacturers. Retail customers like that it is non-allergenic, flame resistant, liquid repellent, and vapour absorbent – and they can feel good about its effect on the world, too.’
In a world where customers are increasingly concerned about personal health, product traceability and care for the environment, a mattress made with Joma WoolÂŽ lets them rest assured.
Independently verified by Oritain to be of genuine New Zealand origin.
Free from plastics of any kind and naturally biodegradable.
Meets OEKO-TEXÂŽ Standard 100: certified free from harmful substances.
Learn more at www.joma.nz
Japan & South Korea choose SPB
ool in bedding isn›t a new concept. Not too hot, but cosy and warm, duvets, pillow filling, mattress topers and protectors all use wool to create washable, lightweight unparalleled bedding products. ‘Wool is a highly practical fibre and it is hard to challenge it for sustainability’, says Albert Chippendale of Speciality Processors Bradford (SPB) in the UK. ‘Many who suffer allergies and chemical sensitivities buy wool bedding products. Even those with allergies and concerns about wool intolerance will find that the wool we process for bedding products
166 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
meet their demands better than any other product’. SPB has been supplying to bedding manufacturers in South Korea and Japan for many years. ‘Our South Korea and Japanese customers choose our superwash wool as a best choice option for their bedding. This is a tried and proven method that we have been using for many years and its success is clear. We know British and European wools and we know how to get the best out of them,’ Albert Chippendale says.
‘Wool treated at our plant is destined for use in high end bedding products including mattresses, duvets, and pillows to well established markets around the world. Trends include wool waddings for mattresses and wool balls for bedding which are in high demand from manufactures who value the ease of use and added resilience for fillings in doonas and quilts’. SPB uses the Superwash treatment for tops and loose wool and was one of the first companies in the UK to receive approval under stringent European legislation in integrated pollution prevention and control. ‘Our treatment out-performs other shrink proofing techniques. We have developed our own process to render the wool machine washable without the use of chlorine. However, even chlorine treated wool from our plant contains less chlorine than drinking water!’, he points out. ‘Our processing eliminates inconsistencies in early wool shrink proofing processes. The superior results include improved colour and soft handle, better dyeing properties and reduced pilling. A finished product made from shrink resistant wool can exceed the equivalent of 50 domestic washing cycles without any deterioration due to compacting or felting and can prolong its life considerably ‘Our plant operates to ISO 9001 quality standards. We are also registered with the Environmental Agency in the UK. Our products are independently tested and certified by OEKO TEX. This independent system for textile products from all stages of production from fibre to yarn to fabric is particularly important for bedding manufacturers as many of our products are used in children’s bedding. ‘We are a commission processing company. Our customers have precise requirements and their ongoing business points to our ability to deliver a quality product to this sophisticated niche market. Customers can send their wool to us for treatment with confidence that their wool will be processed to their specification. We have a quick turnaround time and customers usually receive their product back within days’, he says. For more information please contact Albert Chippendale at firstname.lastname@example.org wool2yarnglobal 2018
NEW CONCEPTS IN FIBRE PROCESSING
hen it comes to the design of textile machinery the simplest and most straightforward solutions are usually the best. This is according to Hubert Hergeth, third generation engineer and designer and CEO at HERGETH GmbH, a textile machinery manufacturing company based in Germany. ‘Some of the machines that we design and manufacture perform exceptionally well with fibre such as wool. Our experience also includes the handling of very short and long fibres. We have a standard range of machines, but our strength is custom-made machines for individual applications.’ ‘We believe that this is an area of design that has not kept pace with development possibilities and our new machines are achieving some very gratifying results for our customers, particularly customers with very specific requirements. We have new and innovative technology that is not well known within the wool industry’, says Hubert Hergeth. ‘Processors of wool and natural fibres can tap into our expertise’. Hergeth GmbH supplies machines and production lines for handling all kinds of fibres. It has been primarily focused on machinery for cotton and synthetic fibres but has developed some new machines that work well for the woollen sector. Its range of machines include handling fibre bales, opening bales, mixing, cleaning, blending, metering and feeding of fibres, carding and web formation as well as optical inspection systems. All machinery is designed and built in Germany. ‘Our machines are designed to occupy small spaces and they have fewer moving parts, so maintenance is simple and quick. Performance is superior to other more
168 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
complex designs that are more expensive to run. Uncomplicated solutions are usually the best,’ he says. ‘Often there is a lack of qualified people to run the machinery so they must become simpler to operate and maintain.’ Hergeth offers a wide range of bale opening machines. For the wool industry a maxiFLOC bale opener is suitable as the opening roll is much bigger than the one used in short staple, also wool and synthetic fibres up to 200 mm can be processed. Now it is possible for more than 100 bale blends of wool to be processed giving a superior blend. The Big Bin machine is suitable for batch blending. It is offered for batches in 3 sizes for batches up to 1500 kg. A batch comprising any amount of components out of bales or loose fibres is ready in 30 minutes. It takes about 2 minutes to clean the system as there are no spiked aprons and no belts. ‘When it comes to the initial opening of bales, it is one of the most dangerous and laborious jobs in any mill, leading to injuries particularly with high density bales. Our bale strap cutter safely cuts the bale straps in such a way that the bale opens evenly. It works with greasy wool packs and is small and easy to use. It cuts the whole bale in 8-10 seconds. Its power consumption is low and no hydraulics are used. The cutting knife is manufactured from special steel and is replaceable at low cost. Hergeth GmbH’s new card for small compact carding machines can handle crossbred wools. ‘Its running length is ideal for the felt industry, with a running speed similar to any large commercial card. It is very easy to clean and takes only minimum floor space.’ For more information please contact Mr Hergeth email@example.com
Member of Beppe Ploner Group
Climate control trials to improve performance Topmakers and worsted spinners around the world process fibre under different climate conditions and recognising this Sant’Andrea Novara has install a new trial room to test and analysis the performance of a variety of fibres under different climatic conditions. The trial room has individual climate controls, mimicking different country conditions so processing can be tested at different temperatures and humidity. ‘This will allow customers to see how machines operate at the climate conditions that they have at home, and enable us to adjust machines before delivery’, Marco Ploner. Wool spinners and topmakers are replacing their old machines and increasing capacity by adding our new machines to their current operations, to stay competitive and deliver the consistent quality that customers demand today. Our RF5 delivers speed and automation as well as energy saving make these machines a very attractive and essential proposition’, says Marco Ploner. The RF5E finisher is available in two versions. The RF5a version is recommended for medium/fine and extra-fine counts, for wool and noble fibres. The RF5b version is suitable for medium/large counts in wool and synthetic fibres. Trial room at Sant’Andrea Novara
ant’Andrea Novara manufactures high performance machines for combing, blending, and preparation to spinning, for all long staple fibre. The quality of
its machines makes Sant’Andrea Novara a frontrunner for wool spinners around the world, in particular in Italy where its vertical doublerub apron finisher (RF5) is used by all major long fibre manufacturers.
170 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘We believe they combine the best from the old machines and include a fully electronic gear box that provides greater efficiency in both operation and quality. There are no manual parts and adjustments to speed can be made at just the press of a button, without stopping the machine’. The RF5 can now be equipped with a highaccuracy electronic traversing device. The device works by varying the twister’s traversing speed as a function of the bobbin’s diameter. The enables optimal winding and results in
maximum bobbin cohesion and compactness. In addition, the perfect roving crossing prevents loosening and therefore avoids the formation of marriages during unwinding in spinning. In case of roving breakage or incorrect winding the delivery control photoelectric cells stop the machine. The machines can be fitted with an optional count detector. To achieve optimal operation and improve machine productivity the pergola-type creel is located in a frontal position, away from the operating area. ‘The RF5E is safe and practical to operate. Machine controls are adjusted from the same position and the frontal creel reduces working distance’, he says. ‘It has international safety standard compliance certification. When a door is open the machine may only work in ‘jog’ mode, using the nearest pushbutton.’ ‘Our follow-up service and spare parts are part of the design and construction package we provide our customers for all our machinery’, says Mario Ploner. ‘Our designs provide
The increase in the drafting values significantly improve the evenness of processed material. The lower sleeve on the intermediate rollers improves the fibre control and prevents lappings, even at high speed (up to 400m/min)
extreme flexibility to track and resolve customer needs. Each project is tailor-made and delivered on time. For more information please contact Silvio Givone and Marco Ploner at firstname.lastname@example.org
Left to right: Silvio Givone, Mario Ploner, and Marco Ploner
New spinning rings for finer fibres PROSINO is currently developing a new spinning ring for particular use in very fine fibres processing such as cashmere, vicuña, and very fine wool. This ring is smaller and has a slightly different shape and is specifically designed for very fine microns. It offers immediate benefits in machine productivity as it has an increased speed at h 9.1 rather than h 11.1, leading to an increased speed of up to 8%. ‘The exceptional performance of our rings is achieved because of the latest innovation in manufacturing and close co-operation with yarn manufacturers that we have all around the world’, says Dr Pietro Prosino from the company’s head office in Italy. ‘We have developed a special conical/concave running path with an extremely smooth surface, in order to allow the best ring/traveler contact. The special low-roughness polish finish assures a consistent performance’, he says.
Dr Pietro Prosino (left) with Francesco Botto, CEO Reda at its manufacturing plant in Italy
further major investment for the company last year was the installation of a special heat treatment machine that heats the rings to a specific temperature, enabling them to last even longer. PROSINO has been manufacturing spinning rings since 1946 and has a yearly production of 9.000.000 rings. It specialized in spinning ring manufacturing and marketing for any frames operating in the market for long and short staple fibre.
172 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Today it supplies to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) companies including ZINSER, COGNETEX, and GAUDINO. It also supplies spinning rings to leading spinners around the world including Sudwolle, Ermenegildo Zegna, Baruffa, Reda, XinAo, and many others. ‘Leading European spinners in Europe, China, and India rely on PROSINO spinning rings for their proven reliability’, he says. ‘Performing at the highest level our rings are the most preferred on the market and add excellence, strength, and speed to any yarn production. We offer a solution for every textile application.’ Wear and tear over time alters the geometry of
Conical 105x297mm_EN new.pdf
the ring and the surface will lose its initial characteristics and level of roughness. The co-efficient of friction between ring and traveller starts to change and increases the possibility of breakage and a decrease in control over the spinning process. The “4+4” Lubrication System ensures that the right amount of lubrication is released, not too much and not too little. This specific“4+4”micro holes lubrication system, ensures that every 45° the traveler finds the perfect amount of oil – brought on the ring surface by 100% selected wool wicks – in order to run smoothly for a number of years. Prosino uses 100Cr6 ball bearing steel for all its rings. It supplies a complete range of ring holders and ring-rails for the short and long staple segment, as well as sintered metal rings for technical textiles including carpet, fiber glass, and synthetic fibers. ‘Keeping frame performance at the highest level and maintaining optimum yarn quality standards is fundamental to profitable yarn production’, says Dr Pietro Prosino.
Prosino rings are also used by spinners of speciality fibres including Mohair and Alpaca. One of the biggest topmakers in Peru, Michell, has been using Prosino rings since the 1980s. Mr Jose Manuel Valdivieso, Director of Michell commented that ‘we look to have reliable suppliers to establish long relationships and Prosino Bogosesia deliver their products on time and the top quality. Prosino – Borgosesia Rings deliver quality and their service has been excellent. ‘Through the years we have learned a lot from them. They have the know-how to process noble fibres such as Vicuña, Alpaca, Cashmere, Silk, Mohair, Fine Wools and other natural fibres. They have always been willing to share that knowledge and we take them as reference to where our textile companies in Arequipa need to be.’ ‘Our Steel Conical Rings provide extra strength and speed and are a solution to reduce yarn breakage and yarn hairiness, and provide a longer lasting life to our customers machinery, and in the long-run reducing additional cost.’ For more information Dr Prosino can be contact at email@example.com wool2yarnglobal 2018
Kurt Baeuerle - Zinser 451 with unique drafting system
SPINNING - YARN ANY WAY YOU WANT IT The majority of worsted spinning operations around the world use Saurer Zinser machines. Saurer attributes its popularity to its ability to provide solutions to the individual needs of each spinner.Saurerengineers work with mill managers in project management to provide flexible and individually tailored support for their new spinning plants.
urt Baeuerle, head of regional sales for Americas and EMEA at Saurer Spinning Solutions says that ‘as costs of raw fibre such as fine wools, cashmere, and vicuña have increased dramatically in the last couple of years, any mistakes at the spinning stage are very costly, so too, is the
174 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
current cost of operating the machinery itself. Production must be perfect every time and spinning machinery that provides both speed and consistent quality is essential for yarn manufacturers in today’s competitive market conditions’. He continues “Saurer is the leading provider of machinery and
components from spinning to final package. Our Spinning, Winding and Twisting machinery and components are worldwide known as a guarantee for excellent yarn quality”. ‘The worsted sector is very different from cotton or synthetic short staple fibres. Spinning chemical fibres simply involves running at high-speed to produce as much as possible as quickly as possible. When it comes to wool and speciality fibres the parameter of each fibre is different, therefore machines must be different. Worsted spinners, in particular, require consistent quality output and speed. They also need the flexibility to be able to change production quickly to accommodate constantly changing fashion’, says Kurt Baeuerle. ‘Our Zinser 451 offer excellent flexibility. It comes in four models for classic ring spinningand compact spinning with a wide range of configurations and conversion options. This allows spinners the freedom to change or expand their particular production specifications in worsted yarn at any time.’ The drive concept of the Zinser 451, the leading Texparts drafting system and the optimal spinning geometry ensure absolute precision and a consistently reproducible yarn quality. The Zinser 451 Impact FX has a self-cleaning compact technology unaffected by wool grease, textile lubricants, and finishing agents. Maximum process reliability and top quality are therefore guaranteed – even with dyed combed yarns. With its intuitive menu navigation, the EasySpin touchscreen is userfriendly and forms the ideal interface between human and machine. All lot data can be set and stored centrally. Fully automated linked systems are also the solution of choice in the worsted yarn industry. ‘With winding machines from Schlafhorst and Ring Spinning from Zinser, Saurer is the only one-stop supplier of linked system solutions for the worsted yarn industry. The linked
system solution of ring or compact spinning machines from Zinser and Autoconer winding machine from Schlafhorst guarantees that the spun yarn quality is retained completely throughout all stages’, he says and continues “ Saurer is completing the value chain for worsted yarns by also offering Volkmann Twisting Machines and Cots and Aprons from Accotex. Having all of this competence in one Group allows Saurer to offer customers solutions for excellent yarn quality” ‘Before each machine is sold we undertake a detailed study of how the spinner will produce a particular yarn count from a particular micron. We also take note of the type of dye that will be used. All information will be analysed and the right machine, fit for purpose, will be offered. Additional components could be added to the machine at the beginning or at later stages to make the production even more versatile. Saurer makes its own frames so the whole process is controlled from start to finish. Every component of the machine is manufactured inhouse. This creates tight control over the quality of each component. ‘The design of our spindles is so precise that when it comes to short staple spinning we are talking about machines that easily run over 22.000 rpm.’ Customers can choose a basic model and then add components for specific production specifications. ‘One of the major benefits of compact spinning on our machines is reduced pilling, so yarn looks brighter and has a better strength’, concluded Kurt Baeuerle. Saurer Group is a leading globally operating technology group focusing on machinery and components for yarn processing and has a long tradition in innovation. Saurer Spinning Solutions offers high-quality, technologically advanced and customer-specific automation solutions for processing staple fibre from bale to yarn. Saurer Technologies specialises in twisting and embroidery as well as engineered and polymer solutions. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Management team at Tecnomeccanica Biellese from left to right: Marco Ploner, Paola Ploner, Luigi Ploner, Stefania Ploner, and Mario Ploner
50 YEARS OF INNOVATION T
ecnomeccanica Biellese is well known for designing and manufacturing machines, and complete plants for the preparation of textile fibres for spinning. It supplies semi and fully automatic blending machines for the woollen and the semi worsted sector, and dust removal and automatic feeding of carding machines. The company has been at the forefront of this industry since 1968 and this year it
176 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
celebrated its 50th anniversary. ‘There have been many changes during these 50 years’, says Mario Ploner commercial director at Tecnomeccanica. ‘We have seen the industry adapting and changing to meet market conditions. During this time we have been evolving as a company to provide innovative solutions to our customers, for faster and better outcomes, and with greater safety.’ ‘Our Automatic Filtering system is the
culmination of this accumulated experience in the field of suction of dust, waste and fabric clippings from different types of processing machines’, says Mario Ploner. ‘This experienced has enabled us to develop a new automatic filtering and cleaning system with significant advantages in automation and efficiency. It consists of a monobloc unit optionally fitted in galvanised sheet iron panels containing a pre-filtering system with fibre separation and a drum filter to collect the particles. Because of the action of the unique automatic cleaning systems the efficiency of the unit is guaranteed. The clean air can either be recycled directly in the room or expelled externally’. ‘An additional benefit is easy cleaning of this machine. They also save time, and are less labour intensive, factors that are much appreciated by our customers’.
Automatic Bale Plucker used to mechanically strip fibres from pressed bales and automatical¬ly drop them on to the feed table of the opening machinery at the beginning of spinning li¬nes
‘No one installation is ever the same. We work closely with each customer to design and install a system that will specifically fit into the space available to work perfectly with existing machinery within the process’. ‘For example the automatic Bale Plucker is used to mechanically strip fibres from pressed bales and automatically drop the fibre on to the feed table of the opening machinery at the beginning of spinning lines. This system also provides a good first blending operation of the fibres. It is mainly composed of a metal bridge moving on rails providing vertical movement to the plucker head. The different functions of taking, discharging and cleaning are controlled by a computerised digital panel with touchscreen. Photo electric sensor beams provide complete protection against accident in line with European legislation relating to Health & Safety’. ‘Today manufacturers recognize that to use the latest textile machinery is a commercial necessity. Greater competition and environmental concerns has pushed many companies to manufacture better quality
Centralized filtering station
products. In all our Beppe Ploner group of companies, that include Tecnomeccanica Biellese, Sant’Andrea Textile Machines and Coppa, we provide manufacturers with the latest technology options to achieve their objectives’, says Mr. Ploner. wool2yarnglobal 2018
STAYING COMPETITIVE WITH NEW MACHINERY New combs at Haworth Combing Plant Bradford UK
oday’s textile machinery delivers troublefree, fully automated production, better quality outcomes, savings in energy costs and reduced labour, and increasing flexibility. ‘Our latest combs, worsted cards, and stretch breaking machines achieves this all and have been in high demand around the world’, says Patrick Strehle of NSC Schlumberger. N. Schlumberger has installed ERA combs and GC40 Gills in Turkey, Iran, India and China. ‘Our most recent installations have been completed at G. Modiano plant in the Czech Republic, Curtis Wool Direct topmaking plant and Haworth Scouring Plant in the UK, and Standard Wool topmaking plant in Chile. Paul S Hughes from Standard Wool Chile, Punta Arenas says ‘NSC Schlumberger team remain the number one choice for combing machinery, their technical expertise and assistance was relied upon, and their ability
178 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
to install our new line of combs in what is, one of the most remote combing plants in the world, is testament to their ability. I can only imagine that it was a brave decision for NSC Schlumberger to remain committed to the textile combing sector through the late 90s and early 2000’s, however that decision proved to be the right one, as the combing plants around the world are replacing their equipment with brand new ERA40s.’ Curtis Wool Direct (CWD) exports scoured wool and combed tops around the world and has also installed 14 new ERA combs, GC Gills and finishers. David Gisbourne manager at CWD Haworth Combing Plant says. ‘We are very pleased with the whole installation process. The combs have been installed on time without interruption to our existing production. We had high expectations and those expectations have been fully fulfilled. We have now been running these new combs for a year and they give us excellent performance.
N. Schlumberger nsc fibre to yarn management team from left to right: Eric Fessler, Florent Kiene, Anita Trandafir, Philippe Kohler, and Patrick Strehle
min, and offers a high level of productivity and textile quality, as well as optimal textile control at high speed. It utilises a cleaning system, drafting head with a light moving assembly, and low maintenance costs.
Eric Fessler, NSC Sales Manager has been of great assistance throughout the entire process’. ERA combs achieve progressive combing by a circular comb pinned over 360° and turning at a constant speed. It is very gentle to the fibres with a high production level of more than 50 kg/h for 21/22 µ wool. The user can achieve precise and recordable adjustments, ensuring consistent high levels of cleanliness as well as reduced operational and maintenance costs. Electrical adjustments, from the machine screen or remotely, can be made without stopping the machine. It can also be integrated into internal or external overlooking networks. The GC40 chain gills are used for converting stretch breaking defelting - dyeing - blending combing - recombing spinning preparation - semi-worsted process for wool, long staple chemical fibres and flax tow. It uses high performance drafter speed of up to 600m/
N Schlumberger worsted carding machines are sensitive to wool fibre and are adapted to 17 to 33 µ. It has a high productivity based particularly on swift high speed, optimal use of the carding surfaces, with a working widths of up to 3,5 meters. Its hopper works with continuous flow and constant feeding density and high powered burr removal capability. Its low «Inactive angle» achieves a high material yield. The new cards have a new frame with a totally new concept. ‘We have developed very sturdy frameworks. The reinforced structure of the roller has a large working width. It works quietly and is equipped with double safety controls on the feeding drives’, says Mr Strehle. According to Patrick Strehle the wool industry today is driven by a constant striving for new innovative ways to treat and process wool fibre. As wool processing techniques improve wool is increasingly being used in many new products. ‘Our GN8 intersecting machine has been designed top rocess any wool or wool-like fibre. It is particularly adapted to process delicate, fine and short fibres such as cashmere, silk, and any kind of fibre with low cohesion. It offers a revolutionary intersecting design based on the latest technology in chain gill drives combined with the universal drafting head in the GN series’, he says. The GN8 head sits in a double pinned field with fallers driven by double threaded screws giving a mechanical speed up to 2,000 drops per minute. It can be equipped with an electronic auto leveller RE type. Lines with GN8 intersecting are particularly adapted to units with small lots. wool2yarnglobal 2018
Standing the test of time dimensional stability and less vibration and the most even yarn production over a long period of time.’ ‘Our cards provide yarn manufacturers with excellent quality output. They can run at a reduced speed, the slower the speed the better the yarn quality achieveable’, says Giacomo Meucci. In addition, new side doors and no more rails on the floor, provide easy and quick access to the card parts for cleaning and maintenance.’ The OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave Worsted and Worsted Cards guarantee high productivity without compromising the quality of the top. The result is fibre fineness from 14.5 - 40 microns and fiber length from 40 - 220mm. Giacomo Meucci
UTEFA Solutions has a long standing history in manufacturing cards for the woollen, worsted and semi-worsted spinning. OCTIR cards are particularly favoured for processing fine and extra fine wool, cashmere and silk, for weaving and knitting yarns and semi-worsted cards for processing wool and synthetic fibres for carpet yarns. ‘Our cards stand the test of time’, says Giacomo Meucci Regional Sales Director Autefa Solutions from its office in Biella Italy. ‘We have been producing textile machines for more than 100 years and have supplied more than 6,000 cards all over the world. We are the only company in the world manufacturing new woollen carding sets for fine counts yarn. We are the only company that still manufactures main and side frames in cast iron for all our cards for woollen, worsted and semi-worsted. This guaranteed long
180 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
In woollen carding sets, the company has introduced new features in its feeding cylinders that reduce to 108mm, enabling better fibre control producing a yarn with less thin/thick places and better CV and Uster values. These cards provide a more simplified opening of the card cover and increased throughput and blending action. A control panel with touch-screen allows easy management of all functions including fault messages. OCTIR-Dragon Multitrave Woollen Carding Sets are available with a single or double tape condenser, as well as either with a giant traversing creel or a tandem creel. Based on the OCTIR system, the synchronization between the two cards is mechanical (breaker and finisher). Wool, Cashmere, Synthetic fibers, other natural fibers including Camel Hair, Mohair, Alpaca, and Yak, fibers, new or reclaimed, pure or blended can be processed into woollen yarns from 0.6 Nm to over 40 Nm for Carpet Yarns,
Blanket Yarns, Weaving Yarns, and Knitting Yarns. AUTEFA Solutions cast iron cards offer yarn producers less fiber breakages and damage and longer final average fiber length in the tops, using large diameters with 6 strippers, easy cleaning with Ø 650 mm Morel cylinders. ‘Larger Morel cylinders increase cleaning and de-burring capacity and produce more clean tops. A more efficient dust suction system improves suction of dust and exhaust air’, Meucci explains. ‘In the past two years we have experienced the strongest demand for our cards from Asia, particularly for spinning. We recently installed 2x 3.5m cards at Red Sun in China and at spinning companies in Mongolia. Our cards are chosen by the world’s top textile manufacturers for modernity, reliability, high
production and an excellent after sale service.’ For more information please contact Giacomo Meucci at Giacomo.Meucci@autefa.com
OCTIR. Woollen. Worsted. Semi worsted.
The best worsted, semi worsted, and woollen carding sets to process the finest fibers.
Italian combs for all machines ‘There are a variety of combs available on the market today but our Coppa Biella combs have been used in all types of machines for over 50 years because they are recognised for their superior quality’, says Mario Ploner of Coppa Biella in Italy. The company works closely with leading textile machinery manufacturers to produce the best performing and the longest lasting combs for any machinery, but in particular, for linen and woollen fibres. Such collaboration has cemented Coppa Biella’s position as a preferred supplier to all manufacturers of textile machinery for spinning preparation for long fibres.’ Coppa Biella manufactures combs for such companies as NSC, Sant’Andrea, OKK, and Cognetex. Manufacturers around the world can order combs specific to the machinery they have at their plant. ‘We can make combs to specific order for individual machines’, says Mario Ploner. ‘Our combs are manufactured from the highest quality steel, using highly accurate processes and the most modern machines and deliveries are made to any part of the w orld.’
Member of Beppe Ploner Group
Textile machinery manufacturing for combing, preparation, and twisting of wool and synthetic fibres has been moving forward with steady innovation to enhance the quality of production, saving in energy, and meeting the stringent demands that textile machinery manufacturers work under today. ‘Our combs, although a small component in these machines, play an integral role in the production process’, he says. ‘We guarantee that Coppa Biella products provide longevity, durability, minimum maintenance, and simple needle replacement.’
Combs produced for Sant Andrea machinery
182 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
wool & product testing
Measuring comfort in next-to-skin fabric Manufacturers and retailers can simply dial up the ComfortMeter to determine an accurate fabric comfort level. This technology has been developed by AWTA and CSIRO
is an accurate tool that manufacturers can point to when promoting the quality of their fabric to transport industries such as for cars, planes, cruise ships and trains. The new and innovative use of wool in leisure and sport shoes is another area where the ComfortMeter can be a great benefit to manufacturers when choosing the most appropriate fabric.
he Wool ComfortMeter is ground-breaking technology that delivers benefits to the wool industry now and into the future. It answers one of the questions foremost on the lips of all retail customers - how comfortable to wear are wool garments today? This small, portable, and easy to use monitor measures the consistency of a garment’s comfort by testing batch samples, comparing against the acceptable Wool ComfortMeter score, for consistent quality from one season to the next. The technology revolutionises the production and marketing of wool garments, with strong interest from leading fashion and sports brands, as well as wool processors and mills. A retailer simply specifies their preferred Wool ComfortMeter score to its supply chain partners. The supply chain is able to produce the products to the Wool ComfortMeter specification via wool sourcing, processing and fabric finishing techniques. ‘The technology provides retailers and brands with a means of differentiating their next-to-skin Merino wool products, enhancing consumer trust in their products and increasing their willingness to pay more for a premium for a woollen garment. The biggest growth in the woollen sector is next-to-skin garments and in particular, active sportswear. In areas of medical and baby-wear products the attributes of comfort is also extremely important. This technology
Ensuring that this next-to-skin garment is not prickly and is comfortable to the skin for long periods of time manufacturers will need to rely on more scientific testing procedures to measure fabric comfort. Yarn, fabric, and garment manufacturers are urged to invest in this new technology that is specifically designed for superfine and ultra fine merino wool. It provides product consistency to retailers and manufacturers in quality across multiple batches. And more importantly, the objective data will allow the retailer to specify to the supplier, the exact comfort level required in their garments. Fabrics measured on the Wool ComfortMeter, analyses the surface of the garment for the attribute known to cause prickle. It counts the number of fibres protruding from a fabric. These fibres have the potential to cause that prickly feeling and the resulting itch factor that can put off consumers from wearing woollen garments. It overcomes the subjective judgement traditionally associated with a fabric’s ‘handle’ or its smoothness, softness, warm feel, dry feel, hairiness, tightness and perceived weight. wool2yarnglobal 2018
184 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
The Wool ComfortMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to develop and market next-toskin wool garments which are scientifically proven to offer a more comfortable wearer experience.
The Wool HandleMeterTM allows retailers and manufacturers to measure key garment handle attributes which means better next-to-skin wool knitwear products.
wool & product testing
Reliable wool and textile testing worldwide
186 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
ool and fine animal fibre growers can expect better prices for their wool if it is tested before sale’, says Jeremy Wear, manager SGS Wool Testing Services. ‘Fibre testing or certification provides a layer of assurance for greasy wool buyers who are more likely to pay a premium price when information about processing performance can be provided. We can also test greasy wool samples using a variety of low-cost fleece testing methods that are specifically designed for animal selection purposes’.
farm cooperatives in fibre testing. ‘We urge wool grower cooperatives, and individual wool growers everywhere, to take advantage of our testing services to achieve better sales results for their businesses. Our independent wool testing certification is simple and straightforward. We have offices in most countries around the world and can arrange to weigh and sample fibre from wool cooperatives and large individual wool growers through one of our local offices in your country’, comments Mr Wear.
Governments in some African and South American countries have recognised that to increase return to the wool or alpaca grower the fibre must be tested, and they are actively supporting initiatives to assist
SGS is the world’s leading inspection, testing and certification company with more than 95,000 employees and a network of more than 2400 offices and laboratories around the world. It is recognised by all major wool and natural
wool & product testing
fibre users as a trusted fibre testing authority. It has strong links to textile buyers through 42 accredited textile testing laboratories in 26 countries. SGS Wool Testing Services has been independently measuring greasy wool, scoured wool, and tops and sliver to verify quality and quantity across different criteria for over 50 years. It is accredited to ISO 17025, and is licensed by the IWTO to produce IWTO certificates. ‘We provide buyers and sellers of wool and wooltop with the data they need for their processing. Our testing services include Yield (woolbase and vegetable matter), Mean fiber diameter, and Color, as well as Staple length and strength, bulk, fibre curvature, fibre diameter distribution, diameter-length profile, and medullation’.
‘When you need to be sure about the characteristics of wool or any other natural fibre you are buying or selling we can provide inspection, verification, testing and certification services – anywhere in the world’. ‘Contact us here in New Zealand and we will liaise with the SGS office closest to the origin of the wool you wish to buy or sell to arrange for that wool to be tested with us. This service is quick and cost effective, particularly when a number of samples are provided. Verifiable reporting is provided electronically’, says Jeremy Wear. SGS range of services and technical information can be viewed at www.wooltesting.sgs.com and Jeremy Wear can be contacted at firstname.lastname@example.org
wool & product testing
AWTA confirms accreditation requirements that wool. Independence of the sales transaction, and impartiality on the part of the test house, is also critical to maintaining this confidence’ he says.
Ian Ashman (left) with David Crowe and Tome Spasevski at AWTA laboratory in Melbourne
s an internationally accredited laboratory one of AWTA Ltd’s major functions is to ensure consistency and accuracy of test results. The most important characteristic in wool - its fibre diameter is calibrated internationally through a series of standard wool tops supplied from the international body Interwoollabs. AWTA Ltd’s Raw Wool Laboratories have successfully completed this biennial re-calibration of all LASERSCAN, OFDA and Airflow instruments as required by the International Wool Textile Organisation, Interwoollabs and NATA as part of part of our ongoing accreditation requirements. There has been no change in the fibre diameter measurement results for LASERSCAN or OFDA. Objective test information allows processors of Australian wool to better predict processing capabilities. Processing trials conducted over many years have established relationships which allow the Yield, Diameter and Fibre Length (Hauteur) of the processed product to be predicted from the objective measurements of Yield, Vegetable Matter, Mean Fibre Diameter and Staple Length & Strength taken on greasy wool. Objective measurement also enables growers to receive equitable payment for their wool and provides important management information to woolgrowers. Sampling supervision ensures the integrity the industry requires. ‘If the laboratory receives a sample that is not representative of the bales from which it was drawn, the test result will not be accurate’, says Ian Ashman Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) Raw Wool general manager in Melbourne. ‘Our sampling supervision provides buyers of Australian wool the confidence in the integrity of the Certificates on which they purchase 188 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
AWTA provides test results quickly. Customers can take advantage of the Express service whereby 95 % of test Certificates are available the following morning after sampling and the remaining 5% available within 24 hours. The Fast service makes 95% of test Certificates available within 3 days after sampling and the remaining 5% available within a further 24 hours. The Normal service provides customers all test Certificates available within 5 days after sampling. ‘At AWTA we also provide a range of tests for specialty fibres such as Mohair, Cashmere and Alpaca. However, these industries are not as technically advanced in the use of objective measurement as the wool industry, and consequently in most cases standard test methods do not exist. Consequently, in such cases AWTA generally issues Test Reports rather than Test Certificates’ says Ian Ashman. He also commented that wool growers in Australia declare “Mulesing Status” information along with other details pertaining to Dark & Medullated Fibre Risk to their broker or selling agent through the National Wool Declaration scheme. ‘This data is then passed on to us at AWTA where it is published on our Test Certificates and stored in our Central database. This process occurs for virtually all wool which is presale tested and hence AWTA can collate and report mulesing status information to the industry.’ Information is now published on the AWTA website which shows the total quantity of non-mulesed (NM), ceased mulesed (CM) and pain relief (PR) wool tested each month.
wool & product testing
For Results you can Trust
wool & product testing
Website developments from NZWTA
2018/19 NZWTA Wool Trade Diary
he New Zealand Wool Testing Authority publishes a diary for 2018/19 that includes wideranging information, provided free of charge and widely used. It includes a comprehensive list of NZWTA and wool industry contacts to assist local and international communications; a range of Comparative yield tables; Trends in testing statistics of New Zealand wool and; Dates and rostered volumes of national wool auctions. To receive a free copy please contact NZWTA on email@example.com
NZWTA has added a series of videos covering sampling, sample preparation, and testing procedures on their website. These videos are designed to provide a better understanding of the procedures used in sampling and testing wool. The videos can be found at https://www.nzwta.co.nz/wool-testing/video-tour/ Certificate verification has been a popular service offered through the NZWTA website. Purchasers of wool can verify the certificates they have been sent by fax or email, to ensure they are genuine certificates. This process can be accessed on the website by entering the test number and the verification code from the copy of the certificate. ‘Our MyWTA internet portal which allows Wool Testing Customers access to their test results 24 hours a day, 7 days a week from their PC’s, smart-phones, iPads and tablets’, says Duane Knowles Chief Executive at NZWTA. ‘The portal includes functionality designed to make it easier to follow tests through the laboratory and access results of completed tests. ‘ Seeing test results as they become available, printing and downloading certificates and invoices, initiating check-tests, re-issuing certificates can all be done in real time from anywhere that has internet access. The portal will maintain a security so that only a client can access their own details. For more information please visit www.nzwta.co.nz
190 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
wool & product testing
wool & product testing
Talk to 5000 buyers in China wool2yarnChina magazine is used by wool and textile companies around the world to advertise their products and services to the woollen industry in China. ‘This Chinese language publication is circulated to over 5000 major importers of wool and speciality fibres in China’, says Victor Chesky, Editor. ‘It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market to wool processing and topmaking mills, spinners and weavers, carpet and garment manufacturers, and government agencies and ministries in China.’
wool2yarn China Speciality Fibres
breaking down any language barrier,’ says Mr Chesky. ‘For companies seeking new export business, advertising in wool2yarnChina will introduce their company to this targeted decision maker base in all sectors of the wool industry in China. For companies that have established customers in China, advertising in wool2yarnChina will reinforce their position as a preferred supplier to these existing customers, and will also introduce their company to
new buyers.’ ‘wool2yarnChina is published in
wool2yarnChina is also distributed to all delegates (500+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool market Conference, the major conference for the wool and early wool processing industry in China. A number of copies are also distributed to textile enterprises in Hong Kong and Taiwan.
September each year and is a buyers’ guide that is
‘This magazine provides exporters the opportunity to communicate to buyers in China, in their own language,
contacted by email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
used by our readers in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan as a reference tool for the following 12 months. If your company is interested in advertising in the 2019 issue of wool2yarnChina please contact us’. Mr Chesky can be www.wool2yarnchina.com
Been seen, Be recognised – connect with Buyers Everywhere Advertise in www.woolnews.net and reach over 3000 wool and textile companies in more than 60 countries worldwide, and at a fraction of the cost of other traditional advertising medium. An advertising icon in www.woolnews.net will link your company to new buyers worldwide and at just the click of a button our readers can view your company details and be in touch with you in a matter of seconds. Check this out at
192 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Clear benefits to Length and Strength testing by NZWTA ‘We continue to do Length and Strength testing on crossbred wool to enable prediction of Length after Carding. Some brokers are now including predicted LAC in the catalogue’, says Phil Cranswick Customer Services Manager NZWTA. Over the last 4 years a group of New Zealand Wool Brokers have been providing Staple Length, Staple Strength and position of Break information on Crossbred wool Lots in their auction catalogues. Trials conducted in conjunction with NZWTA have established that these staple measurements are both accurate and repeatable. While the raw measurements of length and strength are useful in their own right, the real value is in predicting the processing length of scoured wool. At the IWTO conference in Sydney in 2016, the work done on using these objective staple measurements to predict processing performance was presented and accepted by the conference. The work concluded that there were a number of wool characteristics that affected the processing length and it was possible to use these measurements in a formula to predict the processing length (LAC).
WOOL TESTING WOOL TESTING AUTHORITY AUTHORITY EUROPE EUROPE
Wool Testing Authority Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Wool Authority CibynTesting Industrial Estate Europe Ltd Unit 7, Lon Barcud, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Cibyn UnitedIndustrial Kingdom Estate Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 2BD Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 United Kingdom Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 Tel: +44 (0) 1286 678 097 email : email@example.com Fax: +44 (0) 1286 678 039 wtaeurope.com email : firstname.lastname@example.org wtaeurope.com
‘The prediction model uses staple length and strength as well as CV staple length and fibre diameter to predict the LAC result. For some time these brokers have been using this formula to predict Barbe Length on the lots they sell to support our own valuations and they are now sharing the predicted Barbe length information with the trade’, he comments.
Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by United Kingdom Accreditation Service (UKAS). Accredited to ISO 17025:2005 by InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. United Accreditation Service (UKAS). MemberKingdom of the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) InternationalWool Textile Organisation (IWTO) Licensed. group of laboratories the Independent Laboratories Round Trial (ILRT) Member of Interwoollabs. group of laboratories Member of Interwoollabs. wool2yarnglobal 2018
wool & product testing
IWTO accreditation in progress for Mesdan AQUALAB
AQUALAB is based on low frequency microwave technology designed for an instantaneous and accurate assessment of regain, moisture content and commercial weight in textiles. It allows high volume control of moisture throughout every stage of the textile chain raising the quality of the process and of the final productâ€™, says
194 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
Testing Equipment Mr Lalevic of Mesdan Lab in Italy. ‘AQUALAB speed and absolute correlation with the regain oven-drying system (the main Standard Reference instrument for moisture measurement in textiles) make it indispensable to optimise production management and commercial transactions.’
CLASSIFIBER TYPE W Automatic cashmere fibre length measurement
Mesdan-Lab is currently working with IWTO to gain approval for AQUALAB. This machine automatically calculates the commercial weight and further information based on the water content in the tested material.
(complies with FZT20028-2015 standard)
It is suitable for any textile fibre such as cotton, linen, wool, cashmere, viscose, silk, acrylic, synthetics as well as blends.
AQUA-LAB Istantaneous measurment of moisture & regain content
To receive IWTO accreditation Mesdan has conducted intensive comparison tests between the AQUALAB and the Regain Oven (standardised testing method). ‘We preformed correlation analysis on scoured wool, wool tops and carbonised wool and obtained excellent results. The average difference (Delta) as shown on the graphs was below 0,3%. ‘We also performed correlation testing between different Regain ovens and between different AQUALAB units and noticed lower result correlation for the former in respect to the later.’ The main features of the AQUALAB are many. It does not require sample weighting and is extremely fast, taking just a few seconds for each test. It is perfectly correlated with traditional oven drying system (Delta 0,999) and there is no material waste.
MARTINDALE Pilling and wear tester
It is also maintenance free and no calibration is needed. It operates with low energy consumption (only 0,1Kwh versus 8Kwh of a traditional regain oven) and is very simple operation. In 2014 the AQUALAB gained full recognition from ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) in 2014. For more information about AQUALAB and other Mesdan-Lab products please contact Mesdan: Mr Dejan Lalevic Tel. +39.0365.653142 E-mail email@example.com www.mesdan.com
MESDAN S.P.A. Via Masserino, 6 25080 Puegnago del Garda (BS) - Italy Tel. +39 0365 653142 Fax +39 0365 651011 firstname.lastname@example.org www.mesdan.com
wool & product testing
Portable and accurate fibre measurement BSC Electronics exhibited its OFDA2000 fibre measurement instrument at the IWTO Congress in Hong Kong showing the rapid diameter measurement of both greasy staples and clean snippets. It is recognised by IWTO test method 47 andis ideal for fast and accurate grading of wool, alpaca, cashmere, mohair, silk and other luxury fibres.
encouraged alpaca growers to user OFDA measuring instruments to better sort alpaca fibre. Mongolian wool and cashmere growers are also using OFDA instruments in their everyday farming practices’, he says.
‘The portability of the OFDA 2000 instrument enables its use in even the most challenging terrain and farming conditions. ‘It provides better opportunities to improve the quality of animal stock, and is a vital step to better product and income for farmers’, says Mark Brimsthe inventor of OFDA technology and CEO of BSC Electronics that manufactures these instruments in Australia.
OFDA’s unique qualities include its high speed, accuracy and reliability. It also provides lower overall purchase and operational costs. OFDA 2000 and 4000 include the latest software with full control via internet, are PC / Windows compatible and comes with five years free support via internet.
‘Farmers can measure their fibre quality and demand a better price for it. Governments in natural fibre producing countries are keen to encourage farmers to measure their wool, cashmere, mohair or alpaca fibre’, says Mark Brims. ‘A recent government initiative in Peru has
‘Precision and accuracy with IWTO recognised OFDA fibre measurements benefit the wool industry from farmers to topmaker’, he comments. Today there are more than 400 OFDA units in use in 30 countries worldwide playing a vital role in both on-farm and factory testing of greasy fibre and of top,’ says Mark Brims. ‘For textile mills, research institutes and arbitrators, the OFDA 4000 opens a world of possibilities as the only instrument to directly measure diameter, length, hauteur and barbe of fibres in one single operation - in real time.’This is an advantage to the entire wool to garment production chain. Now users can analyze not only the raw material, but also the entire production chain with unprecedented information, he says.
Mark Brims demonstrates OFDA at ITWO Congress this year
196 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
‘OFDA4000 is the only instrument that measures the fibre length directly and provides a more accurate measurement of length and short fibre than by hauteur which is the cross section biased length. Since the diameter of short fibre is usually much finer than longer fibres, the short fibre content can be very different when measured by length rather than by hauteur. Previously unexplained processing results such as nep formation may be resolved
wool & product testing
with new measurements’.OFDA 4000 uses optical measurement rather than capacitance based measurement. The incorporation of diameter measurement allows the customer to replace 3 instruments (Fibroliner, Almeter and OFDA100) with the OFDA 4000. The results are available in a single printout, file and spreadsheet which avoid the work and potential error involved with combining results from different sources.
the traditional measurements - we now have
Curtis Wool UK has recently incorporated an OFDA 4000 into its wool testing laboratory at its Haworth Scouring Plant. David Gisbourne, plant manager says ‘we have just installed a new OFDA 4000 to improve upon
Mark Brims can be contacted by email at
much better control during combing’. OFDA products will be on display at the Hornik Fibertech stand at ITMA 2019, June2026 in Barcelona.
email@example.com for any inquiries on all OFDA products.
Wool Testing Bureau South Africa
he South African wool industry has experienced a positive 2017/2018 season, with wool prices remaining at healthy levels throughout. Although there was a slight decline in production, the Wool Testing Bureau S.A. (WTB) tested over 94 500 sale lots for Yield and Micron, an increase of 1% from the previous year. The proportion of sale lots submitted for Staple Length and Strength has also increased, accounting for almost 59% of all lots tested. The Company is committed to providing an accurate and cost effective service to the local industry. The increased testing volumes coupled with economies of scale has allowed the Company to keep testing fees unchanged for the past three years. The test results issued by WTB provide producers and processors of South African wool with valuable objective information. Buyers and processors can use the objective information to predict the processing performance of the product they purchase. Predictions allow mills to optimise raw wool inputs to meet the required specifications in the top. The authenticity of certificates can be confirmed by using the online verification service available at http://verify.wtbsa.co.za. Besides the price determining aspects of certified testing, objective results also provide a basis for the continuous research of the wool clip. It allows producers to make key management and strategic decisions regarding their farming enterprises. By making use of WTB’s Fleece Testing Service, where samples from individual animals are tested, additional information is made available to sheep breeders to improve flock genetics and the economic value of animals. WTB is accredited to ISO 17025 by SANAS and is an IWTO Licensed Laboratory. This is an essential requirement for the certification of test results. All IWTO Regulations and Test Methods are strictly adhered to,thereby ensuring the integrity and accuracy of results. Participation 198 | wool2yarnglobal 2018
in proficiency testing programs such as Interwoollabs and the ILRT group enables the harmonisation of test results with other major international Test Houses. The Company maintains a high level of technical competence and is committed to providing world-class testing services to all clients. The Company’s efforts to expand its income base into other areas have been positive. Utilising the skills and equipment required to serve the textile industry has enabled the expansion of the customer base into other testing sectors such as automotive and industrial goods. A comprehensive range of specialised product testing services is available, including mechanical, abrasion, light exposure, weathering, climatic ageing and flammability testing. Continuous investments in equipment upgrades are made to accommodate the expansion in the Scope of Accreditation.
Advertising pays in good times and in bad wool2yarn global Speciality Fibres
BUYERS GUIDE TO WOOL 2018-2019
wool2yarn China Speciality Fibres
he old saying goes that when business is good it pays to advertise. When business is bad you must advertise. One thing is for sure, if buyers have never heard about your company it is unlikely that they will buy your product. And if your sales people tell you that you don’t need to advertise because they can do all the selling that is not true. They simply cannot contact 20,000 people, but advertising in trade magazines will. Advertising is important not only to promote your product to new markets but to reassure your existing customers that buying from your company is the right choice.
Magazines are where consumers go to for ideas and inspiration. Magazine advertising is targeted and engages readers in very personal ways. Advertising can bring new customers to your door, protect your existing customer base, and build brand awareness of you products. To successfully market your product to your customer base you must let them know what products you have to offer and how quickly you can deliver. 2018-2019年羊毛购买商指南
To get this message across you must have a profile that your customers and potential customers can see and easily access. wool2yarn global and wool2yarn china are published once each year and advertising in
both of these publications will connect you to all major wool consuming markets every year. wool2yarn global is an English language publication that is circulated to 5000 wool and textile companies in over 60 countries worldwide. It is circulated by direct mail to all major importers and exporters of wool and speciality fibre, wool carbonisers, topmakers, spinners, weavers and fabric, garments, and carpet manufacturers. wool2yarn china is circulated to over 5000 wool importers, wool processors (scouring and carbonising), topmaking mills, spinners and weavers, and fabric and carpet manufacturers in China. It is circulated in China by Nanjing Wool Market. wool2yarn china is also distributed to all delegates (500+) attending the annual Nanjing Wool Market Conference, the major international conference for the wool and textile industry in China attended by all leading Chinese companies from greasy wool importers and processors to garment manufacturers. For more information visit us at www.wool2yarnglobal.com
Who Reads Us Yarn Manufacturers
Garment / Carpet Retail
7% Garment/Carpet Manufacturers
Exporters / Importers / Agents Wool & Top Processing
200 | wool2yarnglobal 2017 2018
E X C E L L E N C E
W O O L
B U L G A R I A
T O P
2018 wool2yarn global magazine is full of opinions and views from industry leaders, as well as a comprehensive round-up of news, feature art...
Published on Oct 2, 2018
2018 wool2yarn global magazine is full of opinions and views from industry leaders, as well as a comprehensive round-up of news, feature art...