SA Connoisseur - Issue 286, Spring 2021

Vol 286

four Gourmet pizzas to try

top

ecnodl-y

frie

finds

Oysters, Anyone?

A Trip to Whitstable

A look inside Niel joubert wine estate

our Ultimate

Gin & Tonic Guide

k c o R Qu oi n Award-Winning

spring food & wine pairings Wine Appreciation: How Young is too Young?

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Wine made with heart will always be exceptional. allee bleue dps.indd 2

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The Black Series Collection of wines showcase our absolute passion for wine and our ongoing quest for innovation in the cellar. The Ultra-premium offering of any producer says a lot about them, not only why and how the wines are made, they also tell a story about the farm`s history and the road that the winemaker has walked in his career. Embodying a noteworthy back story, true to the style and cultivar. In addition, a whole lot of love and passion, giving you legends in the making.

“There is a little bit of me in every bottle ... bold, inviting and filled with fanaticism.” - Winemaker Van Zyl Du Toit

L’Amour Toujours The emphasis as always with this wine is to create a Bordeaux style blend that rivals the best in RSA as well as the great examples from across the globe. Always reflecting the region where the grapes are sourced, it is also one of the first Bordeaux blends in South Africa to be predominantly Cabernet Franc driven.

L’Amour Toujours - Love Always.

Old Vine Pinotage From an un-grafted, bushvine Pinotage vineyard in Piekenierskloof planted in 1976. Our meticulous care of these older vineyards, love and commitment towards producing this proudly South African cultivar makes a wine that is truly worthy to be in this echelon.

Single Vineyard Syrah Marrying what I learned from Stéphane Ogier (Domain Orgier in Côte-Rôtie), intense green harvesting (crop reduction) and careful barrel selection delivers a brooding, yet elegant statement of what we can do with Shiraz in an area not usually associated with wines of this stature.

Isabeau Chardonnay Followed by intense benchmark tastings, trials in the cellar dating back to 2014, acquisition of amphorae, block of Chardonnay on the farm planted in 1990, delivers a wine that has been years in the making.

www.alleebleue.com

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+27 (0) 21 874 1021

info@alleebleue.com

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EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke FREELANCE DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Malu Lambert & Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

CONTACT ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848.

Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za.

All contributions are edited for space and style.

FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth

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A division of Novus Holdings

South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

Ed Board spring.indd 2

ALTO WINE ESTATE IS A leading red wine producer

NESTLED HIGH IN THE HELDERBERG MOUNTAINS IN

Stellenbosch

We are an Estate with a rich heritage and have been producing world-class wines for over a hundred years.

We are the oldest red wine only producer in South Africa and are also one of the few wine estates to have only had five winemakers in our century old history — with two being a father and son duo.

Our portfolio of wines is small and curated, our winemaker Bertho van der Westhuizen treats each wine as he would our flagship blend. From our Iconic Alto Rouge to our exceptional Alto Estate Blend, our wines ensure quality and consistency throughout.

Visit our intimate Tasting Room, stroll through our barrel cellar or join us for our seasonal sunset rouge evenings and learn about the rich heritage and legacy that makes Alto what it is today.

Annandale Road, Stellenbosch T: 021 881 3884 E: info@altowines.co.za AltoWinery altowineestate AltoWines

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CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 QUOIN ROCK: BRINGING HOME THE GOLD 10 OUR TOP ECO-FRIENDLY FINDS 11 WINE APPRECIATION: HOW YOUNG IS TOO YOUNG? 12 MEET NIEL JOUBERT’S WINEMAKER ERNI LEICHT 14 YOUR ULTIMATE GIN & TONIC GUIDE 16 WILL TRAVEL FOR OYSTERS: MALU LAMBERT HEADS TO WHITSTABLE

20 SPRING FOOD AND WINE PAIRINGS 24 HOW TO BECOME A CHARCUTERIE PRO 27 FOUR GOURMET PIZZA RECIPES TO TRY 32 IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 37 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 38 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 40 WHAT DOES SOMEONE’S WINE COLLECTION SAY ABOUT THEM?

ON THE COVER Quoin Rock: Bringing Home the Gold p.8 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Quoin Rock estate p.08

Whitstable’s Oysters p.16 Wine appreciation p.11

Become a charcuterie pro p.24

g n i r SpIS IN

fter a cold and, down here in the Cape, very wet winter, we’re looking forward to some warm, long, and lazy days. With a newfound energy in the air, this Spring Issue celebrates all the good things that come with a change of season. From alfresco meals with easy-drinking wines… to fresh produce and getting outside—we’re here for it.

To kick things off, this month’s cover feature is on the beautiful QUOIN ROCK estate in Stellenbosch. Not only is this wine farm easy on the eye, but their wines have beaten some big name brands at this year’s International Decanter Awards—winning both gold and platinum medals for their Dry White Wine and MCC. From the winelands, and simply for a change, we head to the north coast of Kent and England’s sleepy seaside village, WHITSTABLE, famous for Britain’s only native oysters. There, Wine-of-the-Month Club panellist Malu Lambert enjoyed a weekend of shucking, quirky shops and the village’s thriving art scene (p.16).

From an aphrodisiac to a medicinal tincture, on p.14 we take a deep dive into the classic Gin & Tonic tipple. We look at the history of this favourite cocktail drink, its trendy Spanish revival and, of course, the ultimate G&T recipe.

From a slice of lime to a slither of black truffles, on p.27 we share four delicious GOURMET PIZZA RECIPES to really up your pie game— because life’s too short for another margherita, right?

Next, and still in the kitchen, we share useful tips and tricks on how to piece together a showstopper of a CHARCUTERIE BOARD for your next spring shindig (p.24).

Finally, Dave Biggs shares his thoughts on how early wine appreciation can help produce a more cultivated nation—because a connoisseur’s palate needs training, just like an athlete’s muscles (p.11).

Included, of course, is information on all the latest and greatest in wine.

Happy spring!

G&T’s for days p.14 CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OFTHE-MONTH CLUB

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2021/08/31 16:16

Stellenbosch Inaugural Garden Week, 30 September - 10 October South Africa’s favourite city of oaks, Stellenbosch, is pulling out the stops for gardeners and lovers of the great outdoors in a new, week-long festival that will transform its streets and surrounding countryside.

In addition to a host of highlights will be a flower parade on the 30th of September. Several installations will be featured by landscapers and local botanical artists. Go to www.visitstellenbosch.org for full programme and pricing.

Franschhoek Uncorked, 16-17 September This multi-faceted celebration takes place on satellite farms throughout the Valley, where Franschhoek Uncorked

affords highly esteemed wineries, as well as those smaller hidden jewels, the opportunity to showcase new vintages and releases, coinciding with the onset of spring. All participating wineries are offering tastings of their wines and hosting a range of events on their farms. Tickets available through Webtickets.

Discover the Secret Life of Bees in Spring - Babylonstoren Workshop, 13 October Babylonstoren hosts their popular bee workshops when their garden is a-buzzing with Cape honeybees, hard at work foraging for pollen and nectar. Their workshop starts with a guided walk through the garden to explore bee favourites, after which they then invite you to suit up and discover the farm’s collection of diverse beehives. The farm’s beekeeper, Arné Stander, will explain the basics of beekeeping. www.babylonstoren.com/workshops

Karoo Classique – Cap Classique Festival, 17-18 September This September Cap Classique turns 50! And the Karoo Classique wants to celebrate in style. Ticket holders will be entitled to taste many of South Africa’s finest bubbly in the beautiful picturesque Graaff Reinet on both Friday and Saturday afternoons at tasting venues in the town. True Karoo Trading will also host a Karoo market on Saturday morning where ticket holders can enjoy a complimentary glass of Cap Classique. www.greatwineweekends.com/events/ karoo-classique/

What’s on Festivals and Events Around SA

Bottomless Bubbly Brunch at Benguela Cove, Every Sat & Sun Benguela is bringing back Bottomless Bubbly Brunch and there is no better way to start your weekend: enjoy their delicious brunch menu, sip on bottomless bubbly and bask in beautiful surrounds. Only R99pp when you order from the brunch menu. Booking is essential, call 087 357 0637 or email info@benguelacove.co.za

s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R

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wine & dine | What’s New

New Wine Tastings and Tours

The award-winning boutique winery, De Toren Private Cellar, has recently opened up its newly

renovated Manor House to the public. The Manor House now has a new tasting lounge, trendy wine bar and two terraces—one with an ocean-facing view, and another which looks out over a landscaped courtyard with a pool and fountain.

With the launch of their new and improved Manor House, De Toren invites guests to enjoy a host of new wine tasting experiences and tours. These options allow for all tastes and interest levels, from aficionados to those who just want to enjoy a great glass of wine in a beautiful setting. Meet you there? www.de-toren.com

Wine & Dine What’s New in Food and Wine

Simonsig Releases its 2018 Cultivar Range

Everyone’s favourite, Simonsig has released their long-awaited 2018 vintage red wines with their Cultivar Range. “The vineyards that produce these wines are selected and managed precisely because of their ability to express what Stellenbosch is all about,” says winemaker Michael Malan. Remarking on the three-year release window, Michael says the range was conceived with the intention to send them to market when they were ready to be enjoyed.

“The wines are very accessible now. Though still at a young stage, they will continue to improve with time in bottle.” The wines released are Mr. Borio’s Shiraz 2018, Simonsig Pinotage 2018 and Labyrinth Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. www.simonsig.co.za 6

Jozi’s New Hot Spot

Located in the heart of Sandton, the new Catalyst Hotel has just opened up its eatery, the Kashew Restaurant. This summer guests can enjoy the beautiful deck overlooking the city—a great spot for sundowners and post-work cocktails. The restaurant also features a big bar, an all-day dining menu and a specialist breakfast and dinner menu. When asked about Kashew’s signature flavour, Chef Justin Jonah says, “The dishes are predominantly Mediterranean, influenced by my personal culinary journey over the past 30 years.” The best part? The restaurant doubles up as an exhibition area for South African artists, so diners are surrounded by local artworks that change each week. www.newmarkhotels.com

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2021/08/30 22:03

What’s New | WINE & DINE

In July this year, 14 African wild dogs were successfully relocated from South Africa and Mozambique to Malawi.

With only 6600 left in Africa, wild dogs are one of the world’s most endangered mammals. The wild dog used to be a common sight in Malawi but sadly have not been found there for over 70 years. PAINTED WOLF WINES was a major contributor to the Malawi relocation, both by funding preliminary relocations and purchasing crates, essential for transporting the animals safely. The winery’s regular donations to the Endangered Wildlife Trust mean they have donated a whopping R274,000 since October 2020. “Every bottle we sell raises a little more money for this cause,” says Jeremy Borg, owner and winemaker at Painted Wolf Wines. “We owe a huge debt of gratitude to our partners in this endeavour— our customers. You.” Success stories like this show people can really help make a difference in wild life conservation. Footnote: All 14 wild dogs are doing well and enjoying their new home. To make a donation, visit www.paintedwolfwines.com

MIRROR MIRROR ON THE WALL, WHO’S THE RAREST OF THEM ALL?

Following Eikendal’s fan-favourite 2017 Mon Désir Chardonnay, the Stellenbosch estate is now set to release its limited-edition MON DÉSIR CHARDONNAY 2018. “The 2017 was an incredible start … the 2018 just takes it that step further,” says winemaker Maryke Botha of the latest Eikendal Mon Désir Chardonnay.

Only the second wine to be bottled under the Mon Désir label, you’ll find aromas and flavours finely balanced by judicious oaking and include fresh citrus and orange blossom notes.

Around R320 per bottle.

AND THE ECO AWARD GOES TO… South African eco-retailer and online store, Faithful to Nature, recently announced the winners of its annual ECO-AWARDS. The awards aim to acknowledge those local brands and businesses that are committed to developing environmentally friendly products, reducing waste and promoting conscious consumption. Well done to these winners: BEST ECO PRODUCT INNOVATION: Bamboo Baby—a KwaZulu-Natalbased online store that specialises in eco-conscious cloth nappies and baby accessories BEST ECO-CONSCIOUS HOSPITALITY: Kindred Kitchen—a plant-based restaurant and smoothie bar situated in Port Elizabeth.

BEST ACTIVE ECO-WARRIOR: Garth Tavares—a Capetonian vegan blogger dedicated to healthy eating.

BEST PLASTIC-FREE BRAND: Back 2 Nature— a Cape Town-based producer of handmade natural skincare products.

BEST GRASSROOTS ECO INITIATIVE: The Bee Effect— a group dedicated to addressing the decline of honeybees through urban bee farming and bee havens.

BEST VEGAN PRODUCT: Antonia’s— a local producer of handcrafted vegan health foods.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Photo by Monica Turlui from Pexels

Painted Wolves Return to Malawi

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COVER STORY | QUOIN ROCK

The Quoin Rock 2014 Black Series MCC shows prominent notes of green apple, honeyoats, biscuit, and lime aromas, supported by interesting mineral characters.

How QUOIN ROCK estate is cleaning up the competition

WINNING WINES

F

ollow the dusty road through the Knorhoek Valley, and you'll find Quoin Rock sitting oh-so-pretty.

Along with views for days, this historic wine estate provides a dream-like setting for wine-tasting, picnics, fine dining and tranquil mountain escapes.

Tucked away on top of a hill, Quoin Rock is still considered a bit of a hidden gem when it comes to Stellenbosch wine estates.

But, this hidden gem is beating big names at one of the world’s largest international wine competitions. At this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), the proudas-punch estate took home both gold and platinum medals for their Vine Dried 2019 vintage and 2014 Black Series MCC. Held in London, 2021 saw the DWWA competition invite more than 160 judges (including 44 Masters of Wine and 11 Master Sommeliers) to judge a whopping 18 000 wines from 56 countries.

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AWARDA

and So Much More

IN THE WORDS OF THE WINEMAKER Schalk Opperman, Quoin Rock’s winemaker says, “We’re incredibly proud to be listed among the top South African wine farms and believe that it is the magnificent terroir Quoin Rock calls home that helps us create quality wine.” When asked about receiving a Platinum Medal for the Quoin Rock 2014 Black Series MCC, Schalk says, “It shows that we’re serious about our MCC, that it can compete with the best of Champagne.”

Schalk describes their platinum winner MCC as a classic Champagne-style blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

A rare-vintage release, this bottle of bubbles is made from hand-picked grapes that have been whole-bunch pressed and stored in French oak barrels. The gold award-winning Vine Dried 2019 vintage is a Sauvignon Blanc made from whole-bunch grapes that were cold-soaked for 12 hours, pressed-off to holding tanks, and left to settle for 2 days, this dry white wine was then left to mature in French oak barrels for 5 months.

It’s not the first time that Quoin Rock has achieved this kind of success at the Decanter Awards. In fact, for the last 6 years, every wine entered in the competition has achieved a score worthy of a medal. “It is what motivates us to keep momentum and passion in what we do,” says Schalk.

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quoin rock | cover story Serve the fruity white Vine Dried 2019 vintage with foie gras, a fruitbased dessert, or cheese.

A Culinary Adventure Awaits On top of award-winning wines, Quoin Rock is also home to Gåte restaurant. Visitors are invited to enjoy a variation of menus—from two-course daytime dining to the full Chef ’s experience of a seven-course dinner.

Gåte Head Chef Jack Coetzee is inspired by Southern African ingredients, local cooking techniques and farm-to-table cooking—drawing from the bountiful array of ingredients available on his doorstep. One of the many aspects that makes the estate’s restaurant unique is that the Gåte menu is sustainably and locally sourced.

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•

For a light lunch… enjoy cheese and charcuterie platters with a Quoin Rock wine tasting.

For something more filling… treat yourself to Gåte’s day menu, (including two, three and five-course tasting menus) or a picnic under the Pergolas.

For something really special… pop in for dinner and enjoy a seven-course tasting or vegan tasting menu and experience Gåte Restaurant by night.

Did you know that Head Chef Jack Coetzee of Gåte Restaurant offers a seven-course vegan tasting menu too?

To find out more visit www.quoinrock.co.za Call +27 21 888 4750 Email gate@quoinrock.co.za Quoin Rock Wine Estate, Knorhoek Road, Knorhoek Valley, Stellenbosch, 7600 s O U T H A F R I C A N C O N N O I SS E U R

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FEATURE | ECO FINDS RPET Floral Bag, R300 from Living Eco

Glass Jar, from R49 from Le Parfait

Double Edge Razor, R199 from Faithful to Nature

Reusable Beeswax Wraps - Pack of 3, R190 from Living Eco

Reusable Travel Mug, R218 from Ecoffee Cup

Vacuum Insulated Stainless Steel Bottle, R619 from Zoku

Go for

Green

ECO FINDS to live gently and tread lightly

An Almost Zero Waste Life by Megean Weldon, R312 from Exclusive Books

Conditioner & Shampoo, R180 each from Back2Nature

Reusable Cotton Mesh Bags, Pack of 4, R199 from EcoB Kitchenware

SA CONNOISSEUR LOVES: The endlessly reusable and functional platinum-silicone storage bag that’s better for you and the planet.

Reusable Bags, R159-R305 from Stasher

Live Green by Jen Chillingsworth, R403 from Exclusive Books

Bamboo Toothbrush, R50.00 from Simply Bamboo

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WINE APPRECIATION | FEATURE

Wine, vilisation’s

Ci Lubricant Never too young to START TRAINING

By David Biggs

T

he enjoyment of wine is regarded internationally as a “civilised” activity, along with the enjoyment of other civilised activities like music and literature.

Beer and spirits also play a pleasant role in modern life, it’s true, but they are accepted without much fuss or debate as being unremarkable sidelines to everyday life.

Nobody bothers to sniff and swirl the glass before quaffing a pint of lager or to pontificate over the colour or aroma of a glass of brandy and ginger ale. Not much is written about the subtleties of beer enjoyment, but billions of words and thousands of books and magazines are published every year on the subject of wine.

The iconic annual Platter’s Guide to South African Wines runs to over 600 pages and more than a million copies are sold annually.

Like any cultural activity, wine appreciation deserves study, and training. (Need I remind readers that this is one of the reasons why the Wine-of-the Month Club is so wellliked.)

Some years ago an exclusive Cape private boarding school introduced a wine tasting club for its pupils. This was greeted with shock and horror by many people, including some of the parents. It was irresponsible in the extreme, they cried, to allow children as young as 13 or 14 to drink alcohol.

What was the decadent school thinking, for goodness sake? But the school sensibly pointed out that the purpose of the wine club was to introduce young people, under careful supervision, to the responsible enjoyment of wine rather than release them

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into the world unprepared for the possible results of irresponsible drinking. Goodness knows, we read enough about that in the newspapers.

The French, who have a reputation for civilised wine appreciation, often introduce their children as young as five years old to wine by giving them a small glass of diluted sweet wine with their food. They grow up regarding wine as just one of life’s many pleasures. They can recognise a good wine when they taste it, just as they can appreciate a good pâté or consommé.

‘A connoisseur’s palate needs training, just like an athlete’s muscles’ My parents, who lived in a rather strict Calvinistic farming community in the Karoo, were sometimes criticised for letting me taste the drinks they were enjoying. From the age of about five or six I was offered an occasional sip of my father’s beer and found it horribly bitter. I couldn’t understand why anyone liked it.

My mother’s off-dry wine wasn’t as bad, but frankly at that age I preferred the nonalcoholic lemon cordial my grandmother made. As I grew older I learned to appreciate “adult” drinks, but in moderation, as my parents did. I never regarded alcoholic drinks as anything wicked or forbidden.

They were just a part of life’s rich enjoyment, like sweet music, good art and good food.

When I arrived at university many years later, one of my fellow first-year students

was a young man of German descent, called Rudie. Rudie’s father was a very strict school principal with a fiercely disapproving attitude toward the sins of drinking and smoking. Rudie had obviously never been allowed so much as a sip or sniff of the evil stuff.

From his very first week in residence Rudie chain-smoked and chain-drank and was regularly carried back to his room from various pubs in a wide-ranging area, paralytically drunk. The lucky students who owned cars became quite irritated by the amount of petrol they wasted ferrying Rudie’s inert body back to the campus. Poor Rudie didn’t survive his first university term.

He fell to his death from the balcony of a tall building late one night. I like to believe he was mercifully completely unconscious before he hit the ground.

Uncontrolled abstinence can obviously be a dangerous thing. Maybe more educational institutions in this troubled country of ours should consider introducing courses in wine appreciation as part of the drive toward producing a more enlightened population.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2021/09/01 10:03

ADVERTORIAL | NIEL JOUBERT

Down

to EARTH

Wines

A look inside NIEL JOUBERT WINES

CINSAULT GRENACHE NOIR With a light crimson colour, the wine opens with milk chocolate notes followed by raspberry confit and cotton candy aromas and hints of spice.

Y

ou’ll find Klein Simonsvlei, the home of Niel Joubert Wines, on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountain range along the outskirts of Paarl. This expansive wine and fruit farm has beautiful scenery, which includes five rolling hills and ten dams fed from a natural mountain spring. The abundance of water and extensive land diversity means that on top of the 260 HA under vine, the farm also grows apples, pears, peaches, plums, naartjies, lemons and blueberries.

Klein Simonsvlei has been in the Joubert family since 1898.

Horticulturalists and grape growers by training, the farm is still run by 5th generation family members. In 1994, the wine range was renamed Niel Joubert — in honour of 3rd generation patriarch.

To date, Niel Joubert has four wine ranges: The Estate Collection, The Reserve Collection, The Family Range (Export Label), and the Christine Marie Collection.

Niel Joubert uses all their own grapes when making these awardwinning wines, and also grow unusual varietals such as Grüner Veltliner, Grenache Blanc and Noir, Tempranillo and Malbec.

To find out more, visit www.nieljoubert.co.za

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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NIEL JOUBERT | ADVERTORIAL RESERVE TEMPRANILLO Subtle herbal aromas, rich caramel notes and concentrated dark fruit. Fleshy and wellrounded. A wine with finesse.

A QUICK Q&A with Erni GRÜNER VELTLINER Notes of passion fruit, grapefruit and pineapple abound. An undertone of sweet vanilla adds depth.

A fruity and refreshing wine.

HOW DID YOU FIND YOURSELF AT NIEL JOUBERT? I joined the farm in 2000 after working at Nederburg. The Jouberts were one of our biggest suppliers of grapes, and I always loved working with them.

HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INTO WINE? Günter Brözel (who was the cellar master at Nederburg for 33 years) was part of the German Church and Club. I always enjoyed his stories and his outlook on life.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT WINEMAKING? The challenge every year with new grapes—what nature gives you to work with.

‘Erni’s policy in the cellar is one of minimum intervention with the objective of honouring each vineyard and its fruit'

MEET CELLAR MASTER & WINEMAKER ERNI LEICHT Erni Leicht has harnessed more than two centuries of winemaking traditions to position Niel Joubert as a leading wine brand in South Africa. Erni loves expressing his creative and adventurous side through winemaking and strives to create wines that expresses the terroir of the vines and to give the consumer the chance to experience Paarl and South Africa through Niel Joubert’s wines.

Erni began his career at Nederburg Wines after he completed his studies in Germany.

Erni’s passion for wine was harnessed at a young age from being in the company of great wine industry legends such as Günter Brözel—who acted as his mentor. Erni has played an integral part in establishing Niel Joubert and has put many new and innovative expansion plans in place to keep growing the brand—including planting interesting varietals such as Grüner Veltliner and Tempranillo. Erni’s policy in the cellar is one of minimum intervention with the objective of honouring each vineyard and its fruit.

WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING PART OF YOUR JOB? Getting a call from a stranger telling you they love what’s in their glass.

WHAT’S THE MOST INTERESTING ASPECT OF YOUR JOB? The freedom to see what happens after fermentation. And, of course, where you take it.

AND THE HARDEST? I think it’s probably selling wine at a price I think it deserves.

ANY WINES YOU HAVE A SOFT SPOT FOR? Well, at this stage in life it has to be the Grüner Veltliner — something new to us South Africans but considered old in other parts of the world.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE NIEL JOUBERT FOOD AND WINE PAIRING? Malbec with good ol’ oxtail and Grenache Blanc with smoked trout.

WHAT DO YOU THINK SETS NIEL JOUBERT WINES APART FROM OTHER PRODUCERS? We do what we think works. Some we win some we lose, but we learn. We’re here for the long term.

WHAT’S THE AWARD YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF? The 2013 Malbec got a platinum label. I only made a small batch of this wine for Ms Joubert after the passing of Oom Niel to give to his friends.

WHAT’S THE BEST PART ABOUT PRODUCING WINE? The joy and yearly challenge.

WHO INSPIRES YOU? Nature, my family and, of course, the two Joubert men.

WHAT’S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU RECEIVED? Günter Brözel told me to taste and take in what I taste, not what the label says.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2021/09/01 12:29

The Ultimate Guide to GIN & TONIC

Hey, there’s so much more to a G&T!

W

hile we’re all for a fancy gin cocktail or three, the classic G&T will forever be close to our hearts. With its timeless appeal and sophisticated charm, any gin connoisseur will tell you there’s so much more to a G&T than pouring two components into a glass.

It’s a fine art you see—and there’s a magic formula for creating the perfect one.

SO, WHERE DID IT ALL BEGIN? The G&T actually started out as a medicinal cure. Or so they say. Back in the mid 1800s when the Brits ruled India, English officers were frequent victims of malaria. Doctors discovered that quinine (found in cinchona tree bark) not only cured malaria but also even helped prevent the dreaded and sometimes deadly disease. So, in order to neutralise the effect of those pesky mozzies, the troops were told to knock back a dose of quinine.

GIN TIPS TIP: Gins with citrus notes work best with herbal garnishes such as rosemary, basil or thyme.

TIP: Spicy gins match really well with orange peel, cinnamon or cloves.

TIP: Gins with more floral profiles pair well with cucumber, rose petals or a sprig of lavender.

TIP: Ideally you want to use large ice cubes and four should be just the right amount to keep your G&T chilled without too much dilution.

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Like most tree bark derivatives, quinine powder was not exactly pleasant tasting.

In order to make the extremely bitter powder more palatable, British soldiers started adding sugar (what else?) and soda to make a tonic-like concoction.

These two ingredients made it taste rather nice and soldiers happily quaffed this newfound malaria cure. Ta-dah! The first version of the G&T was born.

From then on, and throughout most of the 20th century, G&Ts remained the British drink of choice. Though, like most trends, the faithful G&T slowly started to go out of fashion. Sadly, by the 1980s gin was out and shoulder pads were in.

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Ultimate Gin & Tonic Guide | FEATURE

EVERYONE LIKES A COME BACK While the Brits continued to turn their noses up at gin, by the 2000s it was Spain that helped put this classic tipple back on the map. And a fresh and trendy take on the G&T helped reach a new generation of drinkers. The Spanish Gin Tonica is said to have originated in the foodie capital of San Sebastian. Here, a bunch of young Michelin-starred chefs started to mix their post-shift gins with lots of ice and tonic, in large-long-stemmed glasses and garnished with different fruits and botanicals.

This new Spanish twist was designed to bring out and complement gin’s natural flavours—and people loved it. Soon enough this new way of drinking gin spread across Spain, Europe and the rest of the world. Today the distinctive balloon-shaped Copa glass is still the most popular vessel in which to serve a ‘real’ G&T. WHAT TONIC IS BEST? For a traditional G&T try a crisp, classic tonic to really let the botanicals in your gin shine. The signature bitterness in a classic tonic stands up to the juniper

flavours of gin and keeps your G&T from becoming overly sweet.

Of course, there are many flavoured tonics available too—from pink grapefruit and cucumber to basil and orange. But before you pour, be sure to see what flavours will work with your gin of choice. Sometimes pre-made tonics can overpower the softer, subtler flavours of gin.

Remember, there is no right or wrong way when it comes to your gin adventures.

There are so many amazing gins (and tonics) out there, and the best thing to do is experiment with different garnishes, tonics and even glasses to find your perfect match. And the good news is you’ll have plenty of fun doing it.

For the ultimate gin experience, why not become a member of the Wine-of-theMonth Club’s Gin Box? Each month we spotlight a local gin and include tonics and dried garnishes that will help you mix up all kinds of new and interesting G&Ts and gin cocktails. Call 021 492 4126 now.

THE ULTIMATE G&T RECIPE Now, here’s the fine art we mentioned earlier. The ideal ratio of gin to tonic means the gin’s flavour will come through the tonic and not be overpowered by it. And, the tonic will complement the spirit’s botanicals without overpowering the gin’s taste.

Got it? Good.

INGREDIENTS: 1 Spanish style Copa de Balon Glass 1/3 gin to 2/3 premium tonic 4 ice cubes a slice of lime, to garnish METHOD: Combine all the ingredients in the glass. Add exactly four ice cubes and give four stirs (no more, no less) to make the ultimate chilled G&T. Don’t squeeze the lime as the sharpness of the juice may mask the more delicate notes of the gin. Simply drop in the slice of lime for the subtle aroma and a slight zesty hint.

DID YOU KNOW? • According to the SA Wine Industry Information and Systems, gin sales were up 151% —from six million litres to 15 million litres—between 2014 and 2018.

• There are more than 50 registered gin distilleries in South Africa with approximately 30 of them in the Western Cape.

• The UK produces the most gins in the world with 1722 gins, followed by the United States with 702 gins and Germany with 692 gins.

Illustration by: Chloe Damstra

• Spain, Belgium, Netherlands and the UK drink the most amount of gin per litre.

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FEATURE | WHITSTABLE

Will Travel for

OYSTERS

Malu Lambert takes a pre-covid trip to one of Britain’s famous seaside towns

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burnt orange, candy-cane sky above, a whorl of slate blues and bobbing boats below.

You’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into a Turner seascape when visiting the town of Whitstable, along the north coast of Kent in England. In fact, the artist loved to paint the town’s spectacular sunsets. Whitstable is approximately two hours travel by train from London, and the close proximity to the capital is attracting visitors to its long pebble beaches, bustling harbour and quirky shops. The town is most famous for its native oyster (Britain’s only one), the origins of which can be traced back to Roman times; complete with gold coins being found in the ancient oyster beds. Interestingly, the saying ‘only eat

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oysters in the months that contain the letter R’ originated here as those are the months of the native oyster season.

It’s also famous for the world’s first-ever rail passenger service, which opened in 1830, locals called it the Crab and Winkle Line. In modernday Whitstable, the shellfish industry is still its main engine of commerce, generations pass cockling and winkling skills down to the next. But these days Whitstable has a renewed energy, with restaurants aplenty and a thriving art scene. Proving that Britain’s seaside towns are becoming popular once again with its citizens. On a pre-covid trip to London, it was an easy decision to hop on a train for a weekend of Britain’s freshest seafood, and to pay my respects to the 2000-year-old Whitstable oyster; it was just a pity the Crab and Winkle wasn’t running anymore.

WHERE TO STAY There isn’t a huge amount of accommodation to choose from, with only two formal hotels on offer, along with a number of B&Bs and self-catering options. Devotees to crustacea should stay at the Hotel Continental. It’s owned

by The Whitstable Oyster Company, so be prepared for ample oyster-feasting in the hotel’s bistro. Situated on the seafront overlooking the Thames Estuary, this classic British seaside hotel offers contemporary beach-styled rooms. It’s also conveniently situated to walk to all Whitstable has to offer.

And… an extension of the hotel are the nearby ‘Fisherman’s Huts’—dating back 150-years, the historic huts were formally fisherman stores, which have been converted to light and bright accommodation on the seafront. www.hotelcontinental.co.uk

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WHITSTABLE | FEATURE

WHAT TO SEE Take a stroll along the pebble beach and inhale the briny air. Then, go soak up the retro harbour ambience with its giant plastic fish and lobster claw figurines, complete with flashing neon signs. Oysters are everywhere; from piles of shucked shells to vendors hawking their wares for a pound apiece.

Grab a dozen—with some whelks and cockles while you’re at it—and watch the bugeyes (oyster boats) moving in and out of the bay.

• Shops, head to the quaint town centre for a plethora of independent retailers, from charming toy stores to vintage clothing, cheeseries, coffee nooks and so much more.

• The Neptune, ‘The Neppy’ as it’s affectionately known, dates all the way back to the early 19th century. The pub, located directly on the beach, is the perfect place to rest your feet and to witness those Turner sunsets. www.thepubonthebeach.co.uk • Whitstable Castle and Gardens, dating back to the 1700s, enjoy a spot of tea at the castle overlooking the ornamental gardens.

• The Fishslab Gallery, which was founded by local artists to showcase their own and other artists’ work, is housed in what used to be the local fishmongers on the high street. www.fishslabgallery.co.uk WHERE TO EAT • Wests Whelks, family-run for generations, the Wests are one of the iconic shellfish families of the region. Pull up a plastic chair and gorge on oysters, whelks, cockles and more with the wind whipping through your hair. It’s simple, rustic, and just perfect. Whitstable Harbour, West Quay.

• Wheelers Oyster Bar, the oldest and smallest restaurant in town. With its iconic—and very Instagrammable—pink façade it was first established in 1856 by Captain Richard ‘Leggy’. It’s split up into the Oyster Parlour and the Seafood Bar. It’s extremely popular, guests are advised to book up to three months in advance. Oysters are the specialty, of course, done in a myriad of ways with an entire menu devoted to them. I sat at the seafood counter ogling the wares, and after a starter of native oysters, I moved onto their other cult favourite, the lobster lasagna, served with a leek and white crab ragout and trumpet mushrooms—pure crustacean-loving heaven.

Tip, they don’t have a liquor license, pop into ‘The Offy’ across the road to bring a libation along, they have a fantastic and extensive selection. www.wheelersoysterbar.com • The Sportsman, this Michelin-starred restaurant is widely acknowledged as one of the best gastro pubs in the UK. Chef-patron Stephen Harris jokingly refers to it as a ‘grotty boozer by the sea’, but it is anything but. www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk

‘Wheelers Oyster Bar, the oldest and smallest restaurant in town. With its iconic—and very Instagrammable—pink façade it was first established in 1856 by Captain Richard ‘Leggy’.’

‘Interestingly, the saying ‘ONLY EAT OYSTERS IN THE MONTHS THAT CONTAIN THE LETTER R’ originated here as those are the MONTHS of the NATIVE OYSTER SEASON’

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feature | whitstable

Wine and Oyster Pairings Suddenly in the mood for oysters?

We’ve picked six of our favourite local wines to enjoy them with:

What to drink • Whitstable Brewer Oyster Stout, you can find it all over Whitstable, along with their other beers. It’s the ultimate, and historic accompaniment to a plate of native oysters. www.whitstablebrewery.co.uk • Barnsole Vineyard’s Dry Bacchanalian 2018, I picked up a bottle at ‘The Offy’ just before dinner at Wheelers. Made from 100% Bacchus—it’s the taste of Kent itself. An aromatic white wine, all elderflower and hedgerow. The Offy, 5 High St, Whitstable • Chartham Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2017, on the way to Whitstable I popped in at this English winery making fabulous fizz at Burnt House Farm near Canterbury, it’s worth a stop on your way in.

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How to Move One of the many wonderful things about this coastal hamlet is that everything worth seeing—from the harbour to the town, the beach, restaurants and the castle—are all within walking distance. You can however, also order a taxi service.

What to do The Whitstable Oyster Festival: See Whitstable in all its oyster-loving glory.

The annual festival takes place every summer and is a celebration of their mollusc heritage. Along with plenty of oysters and live music, enjoy meals amongst the oyster beds hosted by local wineries; the magnificent Oyster Parade, featuring spectacular costumes and floats, to traditional activities such as building ‘grotters’, domes made out of oyster shells, a most magical sight when they are lit up at night on the beach. www.whitstableoysterfestival.co.uk How to get there From London: Travel by rail from London St Pancras via Chatham.

• Doran Grenache Blanc 2018: The aromas on this wine burst with green fruit and citrus notes including Asian pear, green apple, lime zest, and white peach.

• Stark-Conde Round Mountain Sauv Blanc 2019: The nose is a complex mix of tropical fruits, lime and fynbos notes. The palate is complex and rich with a finely textured finish.

• David Finlayson Chardonnay 2020: Dry and full-bodied, mouth-filling with fleshy ripe fruit and creamy texture, lovely smooth acidity and spicy oak for the finish.

• Slanghoek Legends BF Chenin Blanc 2017: Charming and elegant, with a jasmine delicacy on classy fresh orchard fruits, purposeful, well integrated and exceedingly long with deftly handled oak.

• B Vintners Haarlem 2019: The nose shows red and black cherries, plums, a little earthiness, cinnamon and other spice. The palate is relatively round and smooth textured.

• Longridge Brut NV: A lingering and vibrant mousse brings to the surface flavours and aromas of lime leaf, brioche, and roasted almonds, with hints caramelized green apple, citrus and ripe strawberry.

To buy these wines (and more) visit www.wineofthemonth.co.za or contact our customer service agent at 021 492 4092.

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‘The best things in life are always accomplished by looking deeper’

IS THAT

THUNDER? How a small-batch winery is doing BIG THINGS

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HOR Vintners & Co invites you to step into their world—a bespoke winery nestled in the heart of beautiful Swartland. Here, the tight-knit team focuses on small-batch artisanal wines inspired by ultra-premium Rhône blends. Their vision is to specialize in Swartland grapes and create rare and iconic blends for everyone to enjoy.

As a young boy, Emile Gentis loved to collect superhero stickers. While happily swapping the likes of Spiderman and The Hulk with his friends, Emile’s most coveted sticker was always Thor. Finally, after years

of perseverance, his tenacity paid off and Thor joined his beloved sticker collection.

Emile always carried this same lesson into adulthood. “The best things in life are always accomplished by looking deeper, trying harder and remaining persistent in achieving your dream. My Thor motto led me to winemaking and becoming an artisan blender. And, I never stop until I have reached the ideal balance I am after,” says Emile.

Emile is married to Marlize and they have two beautiful daughters/winemakers-tobe. “I grew up in the vineyards beside my dad – tasting grapes, learning about the vines and taking the grape sugars before each harvest. Today I get to do that with my daughters and even slip away for some hide and go seek in between the Swartland vineyards.”

“Growing up is inevitable. But keeping that inner child alive who stirs the rebel inside of you, constantly pushing the boundaries, remains the muse who guides your dreams and reminds you that daring to be different will always lead to something greater,” says Emile. And, so his journey continues at THOR Vintners & Co, where Emile and the team craft small-batch artisanal wines with superhero stature.

For more information about THOR Vintners & Co and their range of wines, spirits, and non-alcoholic gins visit WWW.THORVINTNERS.COM

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The THOR Vintners & Co Range Includes: AGE OF THE REBEL RANGE: A series of wines dedicated to wine regions outside the Swartland boundaries and focusing on regional wine style expressions.

GENTIS SIGNATURE FAMILY RANGE: Specifically crafted to tell their story, Gentis Signature Family Range comprises of three blends made from bush vines that celebrate the Swartland terroir.

BADLANDS RANGE: Honouring its terroir, the wine starts with minimal intervention, receiving extended cold-soaking on the skins to extract quintessential Swartland flavours and aroma.

ORIGIIN NON-ALCOHOLIC GIN: Origiin is a 100% wood-fired hydro distilled juniper botanical spirit, or non-alcoholic gin crafted in the countryside of the Overberg Region in South Africa.

SOUTHBOUND CAPENSIS CLASSIC: A South African craft gin inspired by the rich biodiversity found at the southernmost tip of Africa - the quaint coastal town of Cape L’Agulhas.

2021/08/31 00:03

How to pair wine with

Spring Produce Get the most out of your fresh seasonal produce with these wine suggestions

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pring has sprung and that means we have an abundance of new, seasonal fruit and veggies hitting our farmers’ markets and grocery stores. With delicious items like fresh asparagus, blackberries and rhubarb on the menu, it’s a good time to look at some spring wine choices.

With so many available flavours, it can be a little overwhelming when it comes to finding a good wine match. So here are some suggestions on how to combine wine with seasonal produce to bring out the flavours of both.

Remember these are just a few ideas and guidelines. If you like Pinotage with your beetroot and feta salad or beer with your braaied mielies, then keep doing what you're doing. Wine and food pairing is supposed to be fun—so experiment with what works for you and what doesn’t.

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Five Spring Veggie and Wine Pairings 1. Asparagus | Sauvignon Blanc A springtime favourite, asparagus can sometimes be a little challenging to pair with the right wine. Its strong vegetal taste often makes wines taste a bit, well, off. But if matched with varietals that have a good dose of acidity and distinct grassy, herbal notes, asparagus can really work well with wine. When fresh, grilled or steamed asparagus spears are on the menu, enjoy them with a classic-style Sauvignon Blanc.

A Sauv’s juicy acidity and herbal notes will work well to complement this woody, perennial veggie.

2. Artichokes | Blanc de Blanc or Chardonnay Delicate and slightly nutty in flavour, the easily overpowered artichoke needs extra TLC when choosing a wine pairing. The most important thing to consider is how the artichoke is prepared. For artichokes that are served simply—either steamed or marinated with a vinaigrette— a sparkling

wine (especially a Blanc de Blanc) is a great choice. For richer dishes where artichokes are either stuffed or served with a creamy sauce, a buttery Chardonnay should do the trick.

3. Corn-on-the-Cob | Chardonnay Much easier to serve wine with, our fresh local mielies have a strong sweet and nutty taste. Luckily, these two dominant flavours pair well with a wide range of easy-drinking wines. Corn dishes can be paired with wines of similar character, such as an unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay, to enhance the corn’s sweet buttery goodness. You could also try a slightly off-dry Riesling to mirror a mielie’s sweet flavour and, for a bit more of a contrast, how about a white wine with a little acidity such as a Chenin?

4. Beetroot | Riesling Did you know that people just ate the leaves of the beetroot until the 1800s? It wasn’t until French chefs (bless them) discovered the root’s complex and earthy

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flavour that this much-loved veggie took on a whole new meaning. Fresh, roasted or grilled beetroots go down a treat when served with a dry Riesling or dry rosé. The natural sweetness of the beet matches the residual sugar found in both of these wines.

When pickled or marinated, a beetroot’s sweetness can be tamed by a crisp and acidic Sauvignon Blanc.

wine that can cut through its fattiness. If the avocado is the hero ingredient of a dish, try sticking to refreshing whites with an acidic hit, with plenty of herbaceous flavours such as a zesty Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling. The acidity in a Sauvignon Blanc will cut through the sweetness and fattiness of the fruit, making it a match made in heaven.

5. Rhubarb | Muscat When it comes to wine pairing, it’s the pucker taste and sour tang of rhubarb that needs to be softened. This tang also tends to make many dry wines taste a little harsh, so go for a wine with some sweetness like a Muscat, as the residual sugar will balance the rhubarb’s acidity. With sufficient cooking time, the veggie will break down into a thick, fruity sauce that can be served with many a dessert. If you’re serving stewed rhubarb or rhubarb pie do your best to find a light and aromatic rosé.

2. Blackberries | Riesling Blackberries are often used to describe flavours found in red wines— especially Bordeaux-style reds with those delicious dark berry fruit and jammy hints. Naturally, picking wines with the same blackberry flavour profile will make for a great, straightforward pairing when serving this up at home. Try pairing either fresh or cooked blackberries with a Cabernet Sauvignon or fruity Shiraz with strong berry and blackberry notes.

1. Avocados | Sauvignon Blanc Even though it’s a staple in most spring and summertime salads, avocado can actually be pretty tricky to pair. The avo's rich, nutty and creamy flavour needs a

'Remember these are just ideas and guidelines, if you like Pinotage with your beetroot and biltong salad or beer with your braai'd mielies, then keep doing what you're doing'

3. Peaches | Moscato Whether mixed into a salad, grilled or baked, peaches scream springtime, don’t you think? Whether your peach dish is sweet or savoury, a Moscato makes for an ideal accompaniment since it has residual sugar. A Moscato wine often has a distinct peach aroma and flavour profile, which

Illustrations by: Chloe Damstra

Five Spring Fruits and Wine Pairings

'Wine and food pairing is supposed to be fun'

will match this seasonal fruit nicely. Plus, a Moscato isn't sharp enough to overwhelm those savoury peach dishes either.

4. Watermelon | Dry Rosé Another springtime favourite is watermelon and when it is paired with the right wine it can really make this fruit pop. You’ll want to choose a wine with a light-to-medium body, to match the watermelon’s soft and chewy texture.

Overly sweet wines might drown out the melon’s flavour, so opt for a dry, fruity rosé instead. Of course, our local fruity Chenin Blancs also make for a good fit with the watermelon.

5. Cherries | Pinot Noir Sweet and tart, cherries are another warm weather staple come springtime.

Place a bowl of fresh cherries on the table for a pre-dessert snack or use them in a variety of sweet and tart dessert recipes.

The acidity and low tannins of a Pinot Noir complement the tart, fresh flavours found in ripe and ready cherries. What about a pastry dessert with cherries or cherry pie?

A nice dry sparkling wine or MCC should do the trick.

Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends: • Sauvignon Blanc: Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2020, selling at R135.

• Blanc de Blanc: Saronsberg Blanc de Blanc MCC 2018, selling at R329.

• Chardonnay: David Finlayson Chardonnay 2020, selling at R150.

• Riesling: De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018, selling at R129.

• Muscat: Zandvliet Muscat 2018, selling at R89.

• Moscato: De Krans Premium Moscato Perle 2019, selling at R72.

• Dry Rosé: Warwick First Lady Rosé 2021, selling at R94.

• Pinot Noir: Iona Mr P Pinot Noir 2019, selling at R145.

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A TRUE EXPRESSION OF OUR UNIQUE LIMIETBERG TERROIRS Born out of faith and perseverance. Understated but in no way simple.

WWW.DOOLHOF.COM Bovlei Road Wellington 7654 | 021 864 2805 | wine@doolhof.com

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The Charcuterie

King

Tips and tricks to create the ultimate charcuterie board

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utting your average cheese plate to shame, an impressive charcuterie (pronounced shar-koo-tuh–ree) board is the cornerstone of successful entertaining. The wedges of cheese, the slithers of meat and poised Renaissance-like grapes all maketh the board.

Charcuterie devotees know that styling these boards is an art in itself. But, like most things, the more you practice the better you become. So, if you are new to this gig here are a few simple tricks to make you look like a charcuterie pro.

What is Charcuterie Really?

Traditionally, charcuterie is a French term for a style of cooking that specialises in prepared meat products, such as bacon, ham, sausage, terrines, pâtés and confit. However, today charcuterie boards can include just about anything and range from plant-based boards full of green goodness to decadent dessert boards layered with pretzels, popcorn and sweets. The great thing about a charcuterie board is that the variations are endless. And, switching around a few ingredients yields something new every time.

Your Step-by-Step Charcuterie Guide

Below we share seven simple steps to help you create a beautiful charcuterie board. Before you start, spend some time on Instagram or Pinterest for some swoon-worthy images to harness your inner Martha Stuart.

1. Take Creative License Don’t feel tied to tradition or flavours you don’t like. Instead, mix and match your favourite snacks even if they aren’t considered “charcuterie fare.” And, if you’re feeling particularly inspired, consider building your board around a specific cuisine like a Middle Eastern mezze spread or a seasonal selection filled with your local farmers’ market produce.

2. Use Different Vessels Divide condiments like mustards and honeys into small individual ramekins, glass jars or bowls. Mixing up the sizes and colours of these vessels will show variety and add to your charcuterie’s overall curb appeal. Also, if you’re including olives or other produce with seeds or stems, be sure to have empty bowls for guests to dispose of them.

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Charcuterie Board 101 | FEATURE

3. EMBRACE TEXTURE Having a mix of different textures is essential. If you’re serving cheese, offer at least one soft variety and one hard. For charcuterie, use a selection of meats like thin wafers of ham alongside thicker salami slices. Serve bread and crackers, and crisp vegetables or fruits such as apples and carrots together with softer varieties like grapes and figs.

4. MIX SWEET AND SAVOURY Though a charcuterie board is primarily a savoury endeavor, don’t be afraid to also incorporate sweet accents like fresh fruit, honeys, jams and preserves. This will give your guests a break from all the savoury flavours. Plus, sweet pockets can also work as a mini palate cleanser after heavier, saltier meats.

5. USE COLOUR A nice spectrum of colours will make for an even more enticing board. By using a variation of colourful ingredients you’ll break up the bland browns, creams and yellows of the cheese, meat and crackers.

Choose brightly-coloured produce that will stand out, such as dried orange mango slices or dark purple blackberries.

6. CONSIDER LOCATION People will always gather around hors d’oeuvres. If you want company as you put the final touches on your meal, set the board out in the kitchen for guests to sample while you cook. Conversely, if you want people out of the kitchen place it outside or on the dining room table.

IMPORTANT TIPS FOR CHARCUTERIE BOARD ASSEMBLY

Now, that we have our set-up steps in place, next we’ll need to think about assembling all the goods on your board.

1. FIRST SELECT YOUR BOARD: Charcuterie boards can be as big or as small as you like.

You don’t need to buy a special board and can simply use a wooden breadboard or serving tray. Any flat surface you have will work.

2. CHOOSE YOUR BOWLS: Next place your different vessels on the board. Put taller, bigger bowls in the centre and place smaller ones around them. You can always move these around at a later stage but placing your vessels first is always a good starting point.

3. PLACE MEATS & CHEESE: After your bowls are in place, start to add your meats and cheese. Some cheese can be cubed or sliced, while others can remain in a wedge. Whatever you do, don’t butcher that beautiful piece of Brie. And, remember to leave a spot open for your cheese serving knives.

HOT TIPS:

• •

•

• •

•

A good rule to remember with salami: Slice it cold, serve it at room temperature.

If your bread is a little on the stale side, toast it up with olive oil to serve with soft things, like a mousse or pâté.

Don’t place crisp ingredients (such as crackers) near those with a high water content (such as fruits) or they may turn soggy.

Crunchy sweet and sour pickles are a welcomed break from salty, fatty meats.

Include at least one smoked meat option to add more depth of flavour.

Too many smoked meats will overpower your guest’s taste buds.

Work on serving about 30-40 grams of meat per person.

4. CRACKERS & BREAD: Four different types of crackers and breads is a good number to go with. Opt for sturdy crackers that won’t crumble as soon as they come into contact with a little hummus. To counter those crispy crackers, choose a fresh soft French loaf or warm mini pitas.

5. FRUIT & GARNISH: Next, fill in the gaps on your board with seasonal fresh and/or dried fruit. Grapes and berries are an obvious choice and apple slices go particularly well with Brie and a strong Cheddar. Dried fruits are accessible all year round, so why not experiment with things like dates, apricots and plums? Finally add some fresh herbs or edible flowers to garnish you board—and you’re done.

6. MAKE IT COVID-FRIENDLY: Most importantly, don’t forget to make your charcuterie board COVID-compliant. The mere thought of double-dipping is enough for people to decline the invite. Have toothpicks at the ready and keep a little bottle of hand sanitizer for people to use before and after they help themselves. Better yet, set up a few smaller, COVID-friendly satellite boards.

WHAT TO DRINK?

Look for wines that have lower tannins, lower alcohol content and higher acidity.

For warmer months choose crowd-pleasing MCCs, as well as Sauvignon Blancs and Rieslings. During the colder months opt for robust reds that will stand up to the rich, salty selection on your board, such as a Cab or Pinotage.

Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends: • MCC: Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins Blanc de Blanc 2013, selling at R239.

• SAUVIGNON BLANC: Painted Wolf The Den Sauvignon Blanc 2020, selling at R99,99.

• RIESLING: De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018, selling at R129.

• CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Ernie Els Big Easy Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, selling at R109.

• PINOTAGE: Dornier Pinotage 2017, selling at R169.

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WATERFORD OLD VINE CHENIN BLANC Showing wonderful, purity and elegance.

Flavours of peach, fynbos honey and pithy stone fruit. Very well textured palate with wonderful fruit complexity and creaminess.

A SOPHISTICATED WINERY IN A TRANQUIL SETTING OFFERING A COMPLETE SENSORY EXPERIENCE WHILE TASTING OUR AWARD-WINNING WINES.

www.waterfordestate.co.za

W E L CO M E TO H I L L C R E S T E S TAT E A boutique winery, nestled in the Tygerberg Hills in Durbanville, Hillcrest estate offers visitors a host of activities to enjoy such as picnics, fishing and a casual, cosy restaurant. A beautiful place to spend time with loved ones, Hillcrest is a fun experience for the whole family. With gorgeous views, a unique revolving woodfired pizza oven and The Havoc BBQ Braai pit, Hillcrest has something for everyone. Be sure to take home some of the farm’s award-winning wines and delicious olive products from The Cellar Door. Hillcrest is open Tuesday to Sunday so come and enjoy a fun day out. And, don’t forget, your four-legged friends are also welcome!

Hillcrest Wine and Olive Estate M13, Durbanville | T. 021 970 5800 | E. info@hillcrestfarm.co.za

WWW.HILLCRESTFARM.CO.ZA

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VISIT US Tuesday – Saturday 10:00 – 17:00 Sundays 11:00 – 16:00

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Gourmet Pizzas | RECIPES

VENISON, RASPBERRY, ROSEMARY AND BLACK TRUFFLE PIZZA Serve this pizza with a silky red such as the Glenelly Glass Collection 2017, selling at R185 Cabernet Franc 2017

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Recipes | Gourmet Pizzas

Y

our pizza preference can tell people a lot about you. Do you always stick to the same pizza toppings or do you prefer to experiment with a different flavour combination each time?

Thin or thick base? Crispy or doughy crust? Are you team pineapple or is fruit on your pizza a definite no-no?

A few years back there was even a study done by smell and taste expert Dr. Alan Hirsch to determine how your pizza toppings reflected some of your personality traits. After an extensive (and we’re sure delicious) study, Dr. Hirsch discovered that having goat’s cheese could indicate that you are most likely to be sensitive and easy-going. Salami lovers tend to be extroverts while those who prefer chicken toppings are competitive and assertive. Seafood fans were considered intelligent and critical and those who covered their pizzas in veggies leaned towards being gullible and charming.

Whatever pizza topping is your jam, we’re pretty sure you’ll love these delicious gourmet pizza recipes. So go on, take your pizza to the next level and give this much-loved food the upgrade it deserves. Enjoy!

pizza dough Serves 4 / Makes 2 pizzas Ingredients: For the pizza dough 2¼ tsp active dry yeast 250ml warm water, at ~43°C 1 pinch sugar 1½ tsp salt 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing and drizzling 250-300 g | 2½-3 cups plain flour, plus extra for dusting Directions: 1. Stir together the yeast, water, and sugar in a mixing bowl. Set aside until frothy, about 5-10 min.

2. Stir in the salt, olive oil, and about half the flour until well combined. Gradually stir in most of the remaining flour, saving about 50g, until a rough dough forms in the bowl.

3. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead to a soft, smooth dough, adding the reserved flour as needed if it's too sticky, about 6-8 min.

4. Place the dough in a clean bowl that's been greased with some olive oil, turning the dough to coat it. Loosely cover with a damp tea towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

5. Turn out the dough, divide it into two, and roll into balls, placing them on 2 8

pizza with salmon

two lightly greased baking trays (at least 35cm).

6. Cover with a damp tea towel and let rest for 15 min. Preheat the oven to 240°C (220° fan).

7. After resting, roll out the dough into rounds on the trays.

Venison, raspberry, rosemary and black truffle pizza Serves 4 / Makes 2 pizzas Ingredients: For the toppings 150g | 2/3 cup raw honey 300g roast venison, sliced 225g | 1½ cups raspberries 50g | 2 cups rocket, washed 1 handful small rosemary, torn or roughly chopped 1 small black truffle Directions: 1-7. For the pizza dough: Follow the recipe above.

8. For the toppings: Drizzle oil over the dough, spreading it to the edges.

9. Bake until the dough is cooked through, 8-10 min. Remove from the oven and spread with raw honey.

10. Top with the venison, raspberries, rocket, and rosemary; shave black truffle over the pizzas before slicing and serving.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2021/08/31 13:38

Gourmet Pizzas | RECIPES

PIZZA WITH SALMON Serves 4 / Makes 2 pizzas INGREDIENTS: For the toppings 2 large vine tomatoes, cored, seeded, and finely diced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 454g skinless boneless salmon fillet, cut into thin strips

Enjoy this pizza alongside a crisp white such as the Nitida Sauvignon Blanc 2020, selling at R105

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DIRECTIONS: 1-7. For the pizza dough: Follow the recipe above.

8. For the toppings: In a mixing bowl, stir together the tomatoes, garlic, parsley, and olive oil with a pinch of salt and pepper to taste.

9. Spoon the mixture over the doughs; top with salmon slices.

10. Bake until the dough and salmon are cooked through, about 10 min.

11. Remove from the oven and let cool briefly before slicing and serving.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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RECIPES | Gourmet Pizzas

This pizza would work well with a robust red like Doolhof Single Vineyard Malbec 2018, selling at R189

PIZZA WITH BRAISED LAMB AND ANCHOVIES Serves 4 / Makes 2 pizzas INGREDIENTS: For the toppings 225g | 1 cup pizza sauce, or tomato passata 350g fresh Mozzarella , drained and sliced 80g | ½ cup Blue Cheese, crumbled 300g braised lamb shoulder or leg, shredded or sliced 6 tinned anchovy fillets, in oil, drained 50g | 2 cups rocket, washed 3-4 tbsp caramelised onions, or caramelised onion jam DIRECTIONS: 1-7. For the pizza dough: Follow the recipe above.

8. For the toppings: Spread the doughs with pizza sauce. Top with Mozzarella, Blue Cheese, and braised lamb; drizzle with oil.

9. Bake until the dough is cooked through and the cheese is melted and bubbling, 10-12 min.

10. Remove from the oven and top with the anchovies, rocket, and caramelized onions before slicing and serving.

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PIZZA WITH BRAISED LAMB AND ANCHOVIES

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2021/08/31 13:37

PIZZA WITH SMOKED GAME AND RED FIGS Serves 4 / Makes 2 pizzas INGREDIENTS: For the toppings 225g | 1 cup pizza sauce, or tomato passata 300g | 2 cups small red figs, split in half 150g smoked duck slices 50g | 2 cups rocket, washed 200g fresh Mozzarella, torn

Gourmet Pizzas | RECIPES

DIRECTIONS: 1-7. For the pizza dough: Follow the recipe above.

8. For the top pings: Spread the doughs with pizza sauce, top with figs, and drizzle with oil.

9. Bake until the dough is cooked through and the figs are soft and juicy, 8-10 min.

10. Remove from the oven and top with the smoked duck slices, rocket, and Mozzarella before slicing and serving.

PIZZA WITH SMOKED GAME AND RED FIGS

Try this pizza with an elegant red like the Allée Bleue Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2017,, selling at R190 To purchase any of these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2021/08/31 13:38

wine | Panel Report

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Spring is Busting Out

Panel Report | wine

All Over

With winter’s chill behind us, we welcome a glorious new Spring bursting with promise and lush green growth.

by Irina von Holdt CWM

H

ooray! It’s spring and the winter of our discontent is behind us. First some shy snowdrops, then a few pale shoots and now great explosions of green, everything sprouting and leafing, one can almost hear the busy growing. Spring has inspired poets from Chaucer to Ogden Nash and even Broadway with the all-American “Spring is bustin’ out all o-o-ver!” Among the serious poets, my favourite, Gerald Manley Hopkins: “What is all this juice and all this joy?”

A nice little hint of wine there and let’s face it, much more charm than “the spring has sprung, the grass is riz”!

But back to wine, without doubt, the most beautiful of all the new season’s greens must be the tender, almost translucent green of delicate, young vine leaves gently unfolding. It’s the beginning of the wine year with all of its lush bounty. We thirsty humans turn our thoughts, naturally, to what to pour into our glass, something that will catch the new mood.

A New Season of Chenin Blancs What could be more full of life, so fresh and bouncy, than our best friend, Chenin?

We all know Chenin has an identity crisis–it can be fresh and juicy, or impressively oaked and serious, or luscious and sweet. To match the new season, we need fresh new wines. So what does the panel think?

“Love Chenin, but these were all so similar, and so similar in flavour, too,” says Christine.

“Like they’ve all come out of the same tank,” adds Irina.

Clive says, “When they have good primary fruit, and not just acid, I give them a good score.”

Claude finds a positive, though. “There are some good low-alcohol wines here,” he says.

“Now there’s an oxymoron!” laughs Clive.

We then talk about sugar, a hot subject these days with sugar appearing more and more frequently, now even in red wine. Thank you, Australia.

Malu goes first. “We should not be afraid of sugar in these,” she says. “In the end it’s all about balance.”

“Um-mm, yes, sugar can add another dimension,” muses Winnie.

“Very much so. For a long time, I’ve thought that these two great wines of cool northern Europe, Chenin and Riesling, show far better with some sugar,” says Irina, “but, of course, the balance must be right.”

We agree also that there is a general lack of varietal character in many of the Chenins, but we believe, too, that the 2020s are actually victims of lockdown when work had to stop at a critical time.

In among a lot of sameness, there are some gems, however.

Next, we consider the oaked versions. Here there is a lot of disappointment.

“If you’re going to wood the wine, then for goodness sake WOOD it.” says Winnie.

“These do not blow me away.”

To a greater or lesser extent, we all agree. Whereas the oaked wines have been stellar in the past, now they look a bit pale by comparison, the oaking tentative and often barely there. Another grumble is using oak like an add-on for low alcohol wines. In order to respond to oak and absorb some flavour you really need to start with a more robust wine, something with concentration and more ripeness.

“When I came to tasting the oaked wines I barely raised my scores,” Irina says.

“But then I was expecting a lot.”

Gregory sums up the tasting: “These are dry whites masquerading as Chenin.”

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wine | Panel Report

This is a category where a good winemaker can show his or her creativity

Impressive Dry White Blends Now we’re into the real dry white blends.

No masquerading here. For a start this still seems to be a highly experimental category and, as such, there are highs and lows. The winemakers on top of their game have mastered it whereas some are languishing. It’s the story of fast runners and slower runners and our scores mirror their efforts.

A small-ish sub-category is Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon, which almost always impresses. No surprises here because it’s taken more than a hundred years to put this together in the Bordeaux region of France where it originated. Now who could possibly argue with the French? Sometimes their ideas don’t match local conditions, but here it does. Sometimes a richer, riper Sauvignon with a steely, feisty Sémillon, or the other way around, it doesn’t matter, just works. Those from cooler areas work still better.

The rest of the wines in this category are deeply interesting—because of all that busy experimentation. Some winemakers have great toys to play with, too, like Roussanne, Verdelho, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, all warm-climate or Mediterranean varieties. They are less obviously fruity and don’t really have that “crunch factor,” instead they are fuller and smoother with lower acid levels, all rounded curves and unruffled feathers, yet without sacrificing flavour—great for a grape-growing climate that is getting warmer.

Let’s start with the highs.

“I have the feeling that the winemakers are excited by these,” says Malu. “I can feel the energy in the wines.”

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Winnie agrees: “Great variety of blends, great interest—Rhônes, Sauvignon all over.

Loved them.”

But then a more measured opinion from Greg. “Great diversity,” he says, “but I think we can still do so much better.”

Malu is still on her original tack. “So full of life and interest, even intriguing.”

“Well, this is a category where good winemakers can show their creativity,” says a matter-of-fact Claude.

We notice, too, that Chardonnay is seldom used. It seems to be regarded as a stand-alone variety, adding little to a blend. Or maybe it’s too valuable to blend away?

Then the lows.

“A lot of faults here, that’s careless winemaking, not taking care,” says wine lecturer, Clive. “This may be due to a lot of the wines being overworked and over-thought.”

“Or not thought through at all,” mutters Irina. “Simply doing a 50/50 blend of Roussanne and Marsanne seems like a cop-out, doesn’t it?”

“Maybe the winemaker didn’t know what to do with them, but had to use them anyhow,” ventures Claude, ever helpful.

Colin is not impressed. “Dry White Blends is my best category of all, but some of these let me down horribly. Hot and cold.”

This category clearly shows a work in progress. If ever you feel intimidated by

Wines Tasted by the Panel Chenin Blanc Wine-of-the-Month Club: Avondale Anima 2016 Also liked: Allée Bleue Chenin Blanc 2019, Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2018, Rhebokskloof Chenin Blanc 2019, Rietvallei Chenin Blanc 2019 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Ann De Doorns Vintage Chenin Blanc 2019, Ayama Chenin Blanc 2019, Bruce Jack Boer Maak ‘n Plan 2018, Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Chenin Blanc 2017, De Wet Chenin Blanc 2019, Dunstone Chenin Blanc 2019, Lyngrove Collection Chenin Blanc 2019, Meerendal Chenin Blanc 2019, Olsen Chenin Blanc 2019, Perdeberg Vineyar Col. Chenin Blanc 2019, Riebeek Cellars Chenin Blanc 2019, Survivor Chenin Blanc 2018, Stellenbosch Die Laan 2018, Villiera Chenin Blanc 2019

Dry White Blends Wine-of-the-Month Club: Simonsig Die Kluisenaar 2016 Also liked: Boplaas Cape Portuguese White 2019, DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2017, Thelema Mountain White 2016, Van Loveren Retief Reserve Cape White Blend 2018 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: African Pride Forager White 2019, Bergsig Icarus White 2016, Bergsig Icarus White 2017, Blue Crane First Flight 2018, Boland One Formation Blend 2019, Christoffel Hazenwinkel White Blend 2018, Fable Mountain Raptor Post White 2018, Jakkalsvlei River Cuvee 2019, Lynx Vno Blanco 2018, Sijn White 2017, Simonsig Mediterraneo 2017, Truter Family Agaat Christina 2018, Tulbagh CCM 2019, Waverley Hills Sauv Blanc Semillon 2019, Zandvliet My Best Friend 2019

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Panel Report | wine

the category it’s good to go with our panel selections. We’ve done the work for you and sorted out the best.

Ugh, MERLOT A collective groan goes up when the panel sees Merlot on the tasting programme. We’ve been subjected to mouth-puckering tannins and joyless wines too many times. We know and we are scared. Some taste the category first to get it out of the way; others leave it to last so that it doesn’t tan their palates to leather. It’s good, though, when we get positive feedback.

“Instead of being bitter all the time, these are bitter only some of the time,” says Clive, and he adds with a grin, “That’s a big leap up, isn’t it?” He goes on. “I found some really nice Best Values in an easy-drinking style. For the first time, ever, I didn’t hate them.”

“I did,” says Colin. “I just can’t stomach those bitter tannins.”

At another tasting, it’s back to square one.

“How low can you go?” asks a plaintive Malu.

“I wasn’t disappointed,” says a cynical Greg. “I expected it.”

But ever-cheerful Dave puts in a good word: “Not as bad as usual.”

Malu has a re-think. “Some fresh and fruity, more modern redcurrant flavours,” she concedes, “but no fleshy, full-bodied wines.”

At yet another sitting (we’re really trying here!) it gets positively rosy.

“Some of these Merlots are quite enjoyable, especially those with a bit of Cabernet Franc, but some are wishy-washy and others are green,” says Greg. “The usual, huh?”

“Yeah, Cab Franc has the ability to hide some of the less attractive characteristics of Merlot,” says Clive, “but I’m still not impressed.”

Colin is unyielding. “It’s the bitterness that

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Wines Tasted by the Panel Bordeaux Blends gets me. Those hard tannins. They put a big question mark over this category. But hold on. At a braai, with good company, who really notices? And, frankly, when Merlot has some years of age behind it those tannins seem to mellow a bit.”

Even Greg mellows a bit. “I found some good wines, considering they are often not good.”

So here’s another big question mark—are the tannins getting softer, or is the panel?

Some Lovable Bordeaux Style Blends Spring weather is changeable so there will be enough cold days to send us hunting for good reds again, and what better style than that of Bordeaux? Not as sumptuous as a Shiraz or as firm as Big Boss Cab, but something subtle with both weight and style? Think no further than a good Bdx. The panellists are right behind you, because we LOVE them.

We taste some oldies, even as far back as 2009, which is a treat, and find none over the hill.

“I love the older vintages, there’s tannin there, but hardly discernible, and the majority are so well made,” says Christine.

“They are amongst my highest scores,” says conservative Claude.

“They’ve held together so well and I see quite a few with around 3g (per litre) sugar, again it’s

Wine-of-the-Month Club: Dornier Donatus Red 2017 Also liked: Dornier Cab Merlot 2016, Hidden Valley Hidden Gems 2016, Hoopenburg Interger Blend 2017, Louisvale Dominique 2017 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: De Grendel Rubaiyat 2015, High Constantia Sebastiaan 2007, Hillcrest Atlantic Slopes Hornfels 2015, Idiom Cab/Merlot/Cab Franc/PV/Malbex 2017, Idiom Mer/Cab/Cab Fran/PV/Mal 2016, Jacques Germanier Cab Merlot 2018, Journey’s End Pastor’s Blend 2018, Knorhoek Pantere 2014, Marklew Reserve 2017, Meerlust Rubicon 2016, Niel Ellis Cab Merlot 2018, Simonsig Tiara 2016, Stellekaya Orion 2014, Vilafonte Seriously Old Dirt 2017, Waverley Hills De Huijsbosch 2017

Merlot Wine-of-the-Month Club: Anthonij Rupert Merlot 2014 Also liked: Anura Legato 2017, Maastricht Merlot 2017, Marklew Merlot 2016, Rainbow’s End Merlot 2017 Wines listed in Alphabetical order: Bader&Walters Merlot 2018, Diggers Home Merlot 2018, Duke Of Wellington Merlot 2019, Ernst Gouws Merlot 2017, Fish Hoek Merlot 2018, Flagstone Poetry Merlot 2019, Glenelly Glass Col. Merlot 2017, Haut Espoir Merlot 2015, Landskroon Merlot 2018, Landskroon Paul De Villiers Merlot 2018, Sarah’s Creek Merlot 2018, Spier Signature Merlot 2018, Stellekaya Merlot 2018, Stellenbosch Reserve Merlot 2018, Villiera Merlot 2017

2021/08/31 13:46

WINE | Panel Report

all about balance,” says Clive.

“Yes, I prefer sugars to be 3g, or at the very most 3,5g, then it works,” says Clive.

It remains a key point in the world of wine that in order for a wine to be regarded as a fine wine it must be able to age with distinction. These certainly do. They have been put together with thought, sensitivity and considerable care, and it shows. Blending is an art not always mastered; it aims to minimise or ameliorate faults and boost good features.

Its ultimate aim is to provide a balance as near as perfect. These older wines often do. But what of the younger wines?

Claude is quick off the mark. “I thought they’re such good blends, with no green tannins, and it made me think there are different kinds of bitterness. The younger wines will be good for ageing. They have a great future.”

“I loved them,” says Colin. “They’re terrific, and I especially loved those with

Cab Franc in the blend. I say cut down your Merlot vines and graft Cab Franc on the rootstocks.”

Greg echoes this. “Cab Sauvignon is the dominant component. I would like to see Cab Franc dominant.”

“I loved the elegance,” says Clive.

“When I find notes of cigar box, cedar and cassis I mark them up.”

“I like the oak,” says Christine. “But only when it is done with care and elegance.”

So there we have it, a long list of likes— older wines, elegant wines, oaky wines, interesting blends, but above all, balanced wines. Once again, we have to look to the French, this time for their red blends, cleverly put together to reflect their terroir and vineyards, which in turn is cleverly put together to insure against disasters that may affect any one variety. While being superbly practical they have created an iconic style that is copied around the

world.

Here our conditions are rather more different, and the rules for blending are less prescriptive, but in the end the basic Bordeaux formula is followed. The result is in the glass.different and the rules for blending less prescriptive, but in the end the basic formula of Bordeaux varieties is followed. The result is in the glass and we LOVE it!

Remember too, there is only one Spring each year so go out and enjoy every special day of it!

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website

WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

A TRIP TO RIETVALLEI Below, you’ll find just a taste of what you can expect when visiting the family-owned estate.

WINE TASTING: Over the years wines have been carefully selected and positioned, slowly building their portfolio.

Today, the farm produces four different wine ranges and collects various awards and accolades from all over the world. All of Rietvallei’s wines are available for tasting.

WINE TASTING • CHEESE PLATTERS • CHOCOLATE & WINE PAIRING • FUNCTIONS

CHEESE TASTING: Enjoy a delicious cheese platter that’s filled with a combination of fresh, aged, soft and hard cheeses. Along with the selection of cheeses, you’ll also find fresh fruit, cold meats, biscuits and jams too. Of course, these platters complement the farm’s wine selection.

CHOCOLATE PAIRING: A real decadent treat, Rietvallei’s exclusive Belgian chocolate pairing experience is a must-try.

Here, the farm has expertly paired six of their Rietvallei’s classic wines with six Belgian chocolate creations. Date night, anyone?

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ROUTE 62, ROBERTSON, SOUTH AFRICA TEL: +27 (0)23 626 3596 | EMAIL: INFO@RIETVALLEI.CO.ZA

2021/08/31 13:47

I inherited a rather beautiful cut-glass decanter from my late grandfather. Nobody seems to use decanters anymore. It seems a pity not to use Granddad’s decanter. Is there any benefit in putting it to use?

The original reason for using decanters has mostly fallen away. Old wines usually developed tartrate crystals as they aged. These crystals settled as a gritty residue on the bottom (or side) of the bottle. To get rid of these, the wine bottle was lifted gently from its storage rack, and the contents poured carefully into a decanter, leaving the gritty crystals behind. Modern wines are usually stabilised before bottling, so tartrate crystals do not form. There’s no harm, however, in decanting your wine to add an elegant touch to a formal dinner table. You might also like to pass a decanter of port or sherry round at the end of a special meal.

Is it true that the better wines are sold in bottles sealed with corks, and cheaper wines come with screw caps? If so, does this mean that corks improve the flavour or longevity of the wine?

Several wine producers have experimented with bottling identical wines under cork and screw cap.

So far, there has been no indication that the corksealed bottles are any better than those with screw caps. Screw caps are cheaper than corks. Remember, expensive whiskeys are sold under screw caps. Nothing cheap or nasty about them. Packaging, however, is an important facet of marketing. Just as expensive chocolates are wrapped in silver paper and packed in pretty boxes instead of plain plastic bags, the cork and foil cover adds a nice touch of glamour to your wine bottle. Besides, that satisfactory “plop” of a cork being pulled is a traditional signal for the start of a good time, isn’t it?

Your Wine FAQs your Wine Questions answered

by David biggs

I am puzzled by the fact that some wines are sold for more than R500 a bottle, while others, made from exactly the same variety of grape, can be bought for around R50 a bottle. Is there really that much difference in quality, or is it just a matter of snob value or pretentiousness?

Many factors contribute to the value of a bottle of wine—different soils, slopes, vine management techniques, selection of grapes, sorting the berries and bunches, and so on. Winemaking skill and experience play a major role. As Dave Biggs says about himself, “Remember that Will Shakespeare and Dave Biggs use exactly the same 26 letters of the alphabet for their writing, but it is generally acknowledged that Shakespeare produced work of a greater value than that of Biggs.”

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Anthonij Rupert Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R619) Understated aromas of dark fruitcake, cherry blossom and subtle violet perfume with just a hint of cocoa powder. Impressive cohesion of nose and palate with those same fruitcake, cherry and violet notes being found in the mouth. Bright, lively and juicy but wonderfully dry and structured with impressive refinement. PAIRING: Beef, lamb and poultry.

2. Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins Blanc De Blanc 2013 (Price R239) The palate is taut, zesty and crisp on entry. Bright and fresh with tangy lemon and grapefruit vivacity - that then makes way for riper, fleshier fruit – generous orange, apple and stone fruit flavour.

The wine then broadens out on the midpalate with a creamier, fuller-bodied richness taking over before it tightens once more with a defined, dry and crisp tail. PAIRING: Grilled prawn salad, sushi, chocolate-dipped strawberries.

3. Brampton Roxton Red Blend 2017 (Price R155) The Petit Verdot contributes to the muscular structure of the wine while the Shiraz adds a distinctive flavour and spice to the mid-palate. The Malbec adds bright berry fruit. Delicious dark black cherries with dark chocolate and spice on the mid-palate and a lingering finish. Drink now or cellar up to 10 years. PAIRING: Steak with chunky chips and a horseradish cream, venison or a pulled pork burger.

4. Brampton Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (Price R79) Expressive tropical fruit salad aromas leap out of the glass, followed by underlying green fig and apple notes.

Fruit forward with a rich tropical midpalate of guava and passion fruit. Lively and fresh, this Sauvignon Blanc displays complex, but beautifully balanced fruit.

Drink now. PAIRING: Prawns, calamari, fresh oysters, asparagus quiche and Thai noodle salads.

5. Brampton Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Price R92) This wine earns its reputation as King Cab with deep, defined flavours and incredible structure. Layers of red cherry, mulberry and blackcurrant are backed up by ripe plum and cocoa on the nose, and luscious dark chocolate notes. PAIRING: Spaghetti and meatballs, braised short rib and sticky slow-roasted pork belly.

6. Brampton Roxton Black Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Price R180) The palate expresses the vintage by bringing together the masculine firmness and length of the Cabernet Sauvignon with a juicy fruit core.

A seamless integration of oak spice and oak tannin entwined with the Cabernet’s masculinity adds real depth and complexity to the wine. PAIRING: Beef, lamb and poultry.

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

7. De Wetshof Limestone Hill Chardonnay 2021 (Price R99) The De Wetshof Estate Limestone Hill Chardonnay never sees oak, and offers impeccably pure, refreshing apple, peach and lemon fruit. A lively leesy richness of texture, and a nutty, chalky, fruit-filled finish of imposing length.

Drink within 3-5 years. PAIRING: Oysters, cream-based pasta dishes and light curries, as well as roast pork and veal dishes.

8. Du Toitskloof Lands End Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R110) This classic wine exudes a bouquet of wild tropical fruit flavours intermingled with hints of flint and freshly picked herbs, ripe kiwi fruit and gooseberry on the palate with a mineral finish. Drink now or within 2 years.

PAIRING: Crayfish, oysters or sautéed asparagus spears.

9. Koelenbosch Merlot 2019 (Price R105) The wine has a vibrant red colour with aromas of red berries followed by slight notes of smokiness. Flavours of raspberry and mocha on the palate add to the structure of this full-bodied Merlot. PAIRING: Smoked pork ribs, pizza with parma ham and Camembert or venison pie.

10. Swartland Ltd Roussanne 2020 (Price R115) Mid lemon yellow; very individual aromas of yellow peach and peach pip with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Ripe and fleshy, fresh Beurre Bosc pear flavour with good whack of oak, has the big build to take it. PAIRING: Subtly-spiced fish bobotie, or braised pork fillet with potato and apple, or duck breast drizzled with ginger and honey.

11. Rainbow’s End Cabernet Franc 2018 (Price R279) Nuances of dark cherry, earthy, black berries, tobacco and black forest cake.

There is underlying fynbos and lavender but no heavy vegetativeness. Intense dark purple colour. Oak perfume with blackberry and hazelnut on the nose.

Broad smooth tannins. Cellar for 2-5 years. PAIRING: Roasted or grilled meats, hearty stews and dishes with rich sauces.

12. Survivor Reserve Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R339) A barrel-fermented wine that rewards with a medley of apricot and peach flavours. Showing excellent oak integration and a fresh lime zest finish. PAIRING: French onion tart, roast chicken, creamy butternut and Camembert.

DID YOU KNOW? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door.

Call: 021 492 4100 www.wineofthemonth.co.za

‘A medley of apricot and peach flavours’ To purchase these wines and more, head to our website

WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Who are you?

LIKE A BOOKSHELF, you can TELL A LOT from a person’s WINE COLLECTION

by Dave Biggs

Illustration by: Chloe Damstra

I

once heard a philosopher friend say you could judge the character of a person by running your eye over the books on their bookshelves.

Collections of matched classics?

Expensive leather-bound volumes with gold-tooled spines? Dickens, Kipling, Milton, Shakespeare, Oscar Wilde, Tennyson, Bronte? Forget it. The man’s a phony. Probably inherited the books from an ancestor and never read any of them.

They’re there strictly to impress visitors.

On the other hand, a collection of well-thumbed paperback books that touch on subjects like history, nature, cooking, travel, rugby, bee-keeping, politics, motorcycling and navigation indicates an owner with a wide range of interests and probably a lively, curious mind. I’d be happy to spend time in the company of such a person.

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I suppose you can also tell a great deal about somebody by taking a look at the contents of their wine cellar. Are those wines there to be enjoyed or merely admired? Does the cellar owner say, “The 2017 was the best vintage ever produced in the Swartland, and I have six bottles stored in the cellar. Let’s open one now.” Or does he just say smugly, “I have six bottles of the great 2017 vintage. They’re probably the last bottles left in the country. They must be worth a fortune.”

The point is that wines, like books, are there to be enjoyed. To be experienced.

Unlike books, wines can be experienced only once. After that, it’s just a memory and an empty bottle. This is what makes wine such a mystical, magical thing. Like physical love (okay, sex), it can never be the same more than once. When the cork is pulled it could produce a calm pleasure like

the quiet joy of married love. 0r it could result in an explosion of fierce passion that leaves you fulfilled and emotionally exhausted.

The only thing that’s certain is that it will never be the same again. Once the cork is pulled, that particular wine can never be enjoyed again. It has become a precious memory shared by only the one or two people who were there when it was opened.

This is why I regard the opening of any bottle of wine as an emotional experience.

It can be the calm, comfortable experience of the love between the partners in a longstanding marriage, or it can be the fierce passionate discovery of a red-hot bond between two new lovers. There’s a wine to suit every mood.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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