SA Connoisseur - Issue 288, Autumn 2022

VOL 288

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EDITORIAL DIREC TOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIREC TOR Taryn Breetzke WINE BUYER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BUYER Dean Townsend REGUL AR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Malu Lambert & Clifford Roberts (articles) Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

CONTAC T ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4211 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4211, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848.

Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za.

All contributions are edited for space and style.

FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth

South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

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6 5 CONTENTS 05 ART & WINE: IT’S TIME TO PAY HOMAGE TO GREATNESS 06 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 08 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 10 DORNIER’S EQUANIMITY WINES 12 DAY TRIPPING TO THE ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY 17 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED

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VOL 288

SEVEN THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT BEER 20 MALU LAMBERT ON THE STORIES TREES TELL 25 FOUR DELICIOUS WILD GARLIC RECIPES TO TRY 30 IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 35 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 37 DAVID BIGGS ON THE NUMBERS OF WINE 18

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DISCOVER THE ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY plus WILD ABOUT GARLIC Four Delicious Recipes to Try

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ON THE COVER The Rings of Time

by Malu Lambert p.20

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Rambling Around Robertson p.12 Wild About Garlic Recipes p.25

FA L L I N G INTO AUTUMN

The Story of Wine p.8

New wine release p.9

The Rings of Time p.20

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The sweet hum of autumn is in the air. Hot on the heels of harvest time, autumn welcomes change and anticipates new growth. While we’re sad to say goodbye to our glorious summer, who doesn’t love a change of season? And to celebrate, we’ve packed this issue with all things autumn-y.

To start, our Wine-of-the-Month Club panel member, Malu Lambert, takes us for a walk in the woods to learn more about some big, BEAUTIFUL TREES standing tall in our winelands. Malu says, “If you look carefully, trees are always telling a story.” (p.20) From telling stories to taking road trips, we head to The ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY—just a two hour drive outside of Cape Town. Over the past decade Robertson has seen a bounty of family-run wineries offering festivals, wonderful food and unmatched hospitality. Plan a weekend here soon. (p.14) From award-winning Robertson wines to the beloved bud, on p.18 we share a few things you might be surprised to learn about BEER. Discover its ancient beginnings all the way through to the White House’s own ale.

Next, we head to the kitchen where we’re showcasing WILD GARLIC in all its glory. Better stock up on those Fisherman’s Friends because we bet you’ll soon be adding these tasty dishes to your repertoire. (p.26) Finally, the one and only David Biggs shares why it’s time to HONOUR GREATNESS. Now (more than ever) great paintings, symphonies—and wines—can help to restore our pride in the human race.

Not forgetting, of course, all our information on all the latest and greatest in wine.

Cheers to a new season!

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OFTHE-MONTH CLUB

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The Art of Wine | FEATURE

The Art of Wine

It’s time to pay homage to greatness

By David Biggs

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n this modern age of mass production it’s easy to forget that wine-making is an art, no less than painting, sculpture or composing music.

Being human, we like to surround ourselves with art. We hang paintings on our walls, listen to good music and maybe even buy a concrete statue of David to put in that shady spot under the palm tree.

Most of us, however, have to be satisfied with copies of the “real thing.” We can’t afford tickets to every symphony concert, so we buy recordings. Original artworks and sculptures are way beyond our bank balances, but we can afford copies.

As a special treat, however, we might occasionally visit an art gallery or buy a ticket to a concert or play.

When it comes to appreciating wine most of us have to settle for “second best”.

(And in South Africa there are some excellent second bests, to be sure.) We can pop into the local liquor store and pick up

a R60 bottle of their house brand Shiraz to go with tonight’s pizza or a cheap Chenin Blanc to drink with the hake and chips from the local fish shop.

No problem with that. It’s like hanging a framed print of Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night on the kitchen wall. Pretty, and it fills the blank space between the fridge and the window.

But every now and then we need to be reminded of what art is all about.

Great art happens when a talented genius is inspired by a moment in nature to produce something wonderful and unique. It might be the sunlight reflected in a lovely woman’s smile, the storm clouds gathering on a mountain top or an angry wave threatening a fragile fishing vessel. It might be an unusually good crop of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. It’s not easy to define, but we recognise the greatness when we see it. Once in a while we need to step back from the ordinary

and pay homage to greatness.

Devote an evening to a great wine.

Examine it, sniff it, sip it and describe it to yourself. Allow the complex flavours to spread and fade on your palate.

Spend time exploring the complexity of an Ernie Els or Neil Ellis Cabernet. Savour the nuances of a Fairview Jakkalsfontein Shiraz or a Newton Johnson Pinot Noir.

Feel the power of a De Wetshof Bateleur Chardonnay.

Then, by all means, go back to your daily glass—or bottle—of cheap Plonk de Noir.

Great art is not for every day. But it is there to remind us what the human race is capable of. It provides a standard to which we can aspire.

It’s all too easy today to slip into the gloomy spiral of believing the human race is all about violence and crime. It often feels like that when we listen to the news headlines or read the front page of the daily newspaper.

Great art reminds us that there is still beauty in the world and the human race is capable of creating it.

Perhaps great paintings, symphonies, sculptures—and great wines—are there to restore our pride in the human race.

‘Great art reminds us that there is still beauty in the world and the human race is capable of creating it’

Wine under a microscope is art in itself

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WHAT’S ON | Festivals and events around SA

WA RW I C K S U M M E R P I C N I C S , NOW - 30 APRIL

WARWICK’S famous family-friendly picnics are back and better than ever. Spend the day lazing on luxurious lawn poofs, in the Forest Courtyard or in one of the hidden Picnic pods. Chef Luke has created the ultimate summer picnics and sourced the freshest ingredients—with vegan and vegetarian options too. R550pp.

Visit www.warwickwine.com

WHAT’S ON Events and Workshops Around SA

S A C H E E S E F E S T I VA L P O P UP PICNIC, 23-24 APRIL

Head to Groote Post Wine Estate in the Darling hills for the SA Cheese Festival Pop-up Picnic. Visitors can look forward to the estate’s unique rural hospitality, delicious cheese (of course), and other delicacies. To drink there are awardwinning wines from Groote Post and surrounding wine farms, as well as craft beer and gin. Tickets are R350pp via Webticket.

SUNSET ROUGE EVENING, 29 APRIL Plans this Friday? Enjoy live music, award-winning wines and the sunset while overlooking views of Table Mountain and Stellenbosch Hills at ALTO WINE. All of Alto’s wines will be available by the glass or bottle and accompanied by delicious cheese and charcuterie platters. The Sunset Rouge evenings run from 5:30pm8pm and are an ideal way to unwind after a long week.

Booking is essential. info@altowines.co.za

BUBBLY & GIN TASTING FESTIVAL, 12 MARCH Get ready, PE! Bridge Street Brewery brings the BUBBLY & GIN TASTING FESTIVAL to the Eastern Cape. It’s time to sample some of the country’s best MCCs and local craft gins under a canopy of trees while listening to soulful DJ beats. The MCC and gin will be for sale at wholesale prices.

R300pp. The best part? A portion of the proceeds goes to Save-a-Pet for the sterilisation project. Go to www.quicket.co.za to purchase tickets

SUNDAY SUNSET CONCERTS AT DURBANVILLE HILLS, NOW-27 MARCH Turn those dreaded Monday blues into golden sunsets with Sundown Sundays at DURBANVILLE HILLS. Taking place every Sunday from 3pm-6pm, guests can enjoy top local entertainment, delicious wine and great food. The Olive Grove will serve its popular hake and fries, cheese and charcuterie boards, fresh oysters, sandwiches and wraps. Booking is essential and space is limited. info@durbanvillehills.co.za 6

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Festivals and events around SA | WHAT’S ON

T H E N O O R D H O E K C RU S H , 2 A P R I L

The Noordhoek Crush has, rightly so, developed quite the reputation for being the most laid back but spirited wine festival in the Cape. Sip to your heart’s content on over 100 wines from 25 producers, line your stomach with some foodie delights from Noordhoek’s culinary heros, all while being serenaded to by Newton & Co. Taking place at the Noordhoek Farm Village between 12 and 4pm. Entrance is free but a ‘wine tasting wrist band’ must be pre-purchased at Quicket. R250pp allows unlimited tasting.

SWARTLAND SOSIAAL WYNFEES, 30 APRIL An exciting new wine festival launches in the heart of the Swartland - arguably South Africa’s most dynamic wine region.

The Swartland Sosiaal Wynfees breaks the mould in typical Swartland fashion with a showcase of 15 wine farms, from the famous and lesser-known wine treasures. The event will be held at The Moorrees - home of hospitality, good food and great wine in Moorreesburg and will also feature delicious food and all-day live entertainment. Tickets can be purchased through Quicket for R350pp which includes 10 tasting vouchers, a glass, R50 towards a bottle of wine as well as live music and games.

THE JOHANNESBURG CAP C L A S S I Q U E & C H A M PA G N E F E S T I VA L , 9 - 1 0 A P R I L

Pop the corks! The Johannesburg Cap Classique & Champagne Festival returns to Gauteng after a two-year hiatus. The weekend-long event is set to take place between 11am - 4pm at the Inanda Polo Club in Sandton. The festival will have an elegant, chic garden party feel with a blue and white dress theme. An early-bird special is on offer at R350pp if tickets are booked before midnight on March 15. Thereafter tickets will cost R395pp. The price includes a souvenir bubbly glass and 10 tasting coupons. Book at www. webtickets.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE & DINE | What’s New

A Cheesecake & Wine Duo

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

Love a good cheesecake? Do yourself a favour and swing into EIKENDAL VINEYARDS for their signature cheesecake and wine pairing.

You can expect a crisp Sauvignon Blanc with a lemon cheesecake, a plumb berry cheesecake with the estate’s rosé and the unwooded Chardonnay alongside the decadent salted caramel cheesecake. This fun pairing takes place Tuesdays to Sundays between 11am and 4:30pm, at R120pp. To book, call 021 855 1422 or send an email to info@eikendal.co.za.

Africa’s First and Only Wine Museum

The beautiful Babylonstoren has just opened THE STORY OF WINE, a celebration of all things vino. Designer Etienne Hanekom is the man behind the magic that starts as soon as you enter. Visitors walk through a giant sculpture of twisted vines and roots that serves as the entryway. From an antique collection of corkscrews to a breakdown of the different soils, the space is entertaining and educational.

The audio guide can be used to learn more about the various installations and exhibits throughout the museum.

Guests can also enjoy virtual reality headsets, multi-sensory experiences, a screening room made in the shape of a wine barrel and a music video made from wine glass music. We’re on our way!

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Congrats, PG!

Experienced winemaker and head of the renowned STELLENBOSCH HILLS, PG Slabbert, celebrates his 25th harvest at the winery this year. During this time, he has not only been instrumental in the transformation of the estate, but also shared its journey through some tumultuous times. Since the mid-1990s historic peaks and troughs include SA’s return to the international arena, seasons of extreme drought, loadshedding, rollercoaster markets of foreign trade, and most recently, the pandemic. Nonetheless, Stellenbosch Hills weathered the storms, and evolved into a leading producer of premium wine. “I’ve not had one day of regret about joining this industry,” he says. “Cheers to many more years!” says PG. Now that’s a serious achievement, PG.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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What’s New | WINE & DINE

New Wine Kid On The Block

Meet ULUTSHA, a proudly South African Pinotage by a team of young Pinotage Youth Development Academy graduates in partnership with Delheim Estate in Stellenbosch.

Ulutsha is an isiXhosa word for “the youth” and it is fitting that it was developed by a group of young, passionate wine graduates and aspiring business people. For more information about Delheim Estate, visit www.delheim.com

ART & WINE WALKABOUTS

Quoin Rock has extended their weekly interactive ART WALKABOUTS with local artist Nicoliene Esterhuizen followed by a 3-course meal by Gåte Restaurant.

After the recent success of her first solo exhibition, Nicoliene Esterhuizen is showcasing her artwork to a small audience each week in March. Topped off with a glass of MCC before heading to Gåte Restaurant for a three-course feast framed by Yuliya Gaiduk’s architecture.

The tours are available on the 16, 23 & 30th of March. The walkabouts are limited to 8 people per day and cost R800pp.

A NEW GIG FOR BERTUS BASSON

This March, Vergenoegd Löw welcomes CLARA’S BARN, a new restaurant located in one of the country’s oldest barns. The big idea behind this new restaurant?

None other than renowned local chef Bertus Basson. Mr. Basson has been involved in Vergenoegd Löw since 2019 and this will be his second restaurant at the wine estate, following the much-loved Geuwels. Save us a seat, Bertus!

PROJECT Z’S SECOND RELEASE

“Nature knows no boundaries and wine, as one of the most revered of nature’s offerings, does not have limits either,” says the team at KLEINE ZALZE. With Project Z, the winemakers had free reign to interact with nature, to search for the ultimate expression from a vineyard and to push the boundaries of creativity. The project originated in 2013 from discussion between owner Kobus Basson and the winemaking team. The first wine was bottled in 2017 and by 2020 a range of signature wines were ready for release. Now, the Kleine Zalze brings us the much-anticipated second release V2. And aren’t the labels beautiful? Renowned artist, Theo Paul Voster, created a visual expression of the elements of nature that inspired each winemaker.

Changing Things Up

The Breede River Valley’s WELTEVREDE WINE ESTATE has taken a major step in its evolution following the extensive re-development of the farm’s visitor experiences. The transformation can be seen in a number of areas and includes a double-volume reception hall; refreshed and expanded underground exhibition and wine tasting rooms; and an expansive, landscaped rose-and-vine garden.

Weltevrede has also welcomed a second tasting room, a new restaurant and a non-alcoholic social beverage lounge is also in the pipeline. Cheers to change! www.weltevrede.com

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ADVERTORIAL | Dornier

Equanimity A magical state of tranquility, imperturbability, a doorway to a place of serenity and composure — DORNIER EQUANIMITY CABERNET SAUVIGNON

‘Protruding Rocks’ 2001 Christoph Modeste Dornier Acrylic on canvas 159.5 x 134.5 cm

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E. winelounge@dornier.co.za | T. (021) 880 0557 Social. @dornier_wines | www.dornier.co.za

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Dornier | ADVERTORIAL

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hristoph Modeste Dornier’s passions for wine, art, architecture and mythology are ever present at Dornier — not only in the spectacular design of Dornier’s working wine cellar, but in the stories, art and myth that abound in many of the wines.

‘Intense black cherry colour with a FULL BOUQUET of cassis, black berries, cigar box, pencil shavings and subtle oak and a hint of mint to ensure FRESHNESS. The palate has DENSITY and CONCENTRATED FLAVOURS of DARK FRUIT WITH ELEGANT TANNINS to create a WELL-BALANCED WINE with a long finish.

Concentrated fruit, bold structure and the ability to AGE WELL.’

A recurring theme in his artwork showcased at Dornier, is the one of the Protruding Rocks – the enigmatic all-seeing beings that bore witness to everything that came before, but who are mute in ability to share the fruits of their knowledge. Who are these immortals, where do they come from and what magical secrets do they keep? What powers do they possess?

Only at the place hidden just above the famed vineyards, the place with the red sands and nebulous light, is the last of their legacy to be found. The place the artist would retire to at the end of each day, where he found the doorway, his refuge, his respite, Equanimity.

Dornier is situated at the foot of the majestic Stellenbosch Mountain in the famous sub-region known as The Golden Triangle – an area famed for the production of some of South Africa’s best red wines. This area lends itself in particular to the production of premium quality wines comprised of Bordeaux red grape varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON accounts for more than 60% of Dornier’s planted red grape varieties with original plantings thereof dating back to 2001. Ancient, decomposed granite soils found on the cool, south facing slopes of Stellenbosch Mountain lead to the production of elegant wines of complex structure for which Dornier has become well recognized for. The unique Terroir at Dornier together with ongoing, improved techniques used in the vineyards and in the cellar have culminated in the production of classic examples of noble varieties with distinguishable character.

DORNIER EQUANIMITY CABERNET SAUVIGNON has been lauded by wine critics both locally and internationally. Ratings and accolades to date have included Top 100 wine status, Double Platinum Awards and Double Gold Medals. Recent investment viticulturally at Dornier includes the planting of 27900 new Cabernet Sauvignon vines in 2021 with a further 16 200 Cabernet Sauvignon vine plantings planned for 2022.

The excellence of Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon can be discovered at the WINE LOUNGE AT DORNIER. No less than 16 different wines are available to taste at the Wine Lounge at Dornier including all the single varietal wines made from lessor known grape varieties namely Semillon, Malbec, Tinta Barocca and Petit Verdot.

A selection of cheese and charcuterie platters are also available to order which complement the wines and deliver a uniquely rewarding wine tasting experience.

The ART ROOM AT DORNIER showcases a collection of the late Christoph Dornier’s artwork and affords the opportunity of unravelling some of the mysteries and stories behind Dornier’s beautiful wines.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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FEATURE | Rambling Around Robertson

Weltevrede Wine Estate

Rambling Around ROBERTSON We take a fun-filled trip to the BEAUTIFUL ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY

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f you're looking for a wine route with all the trimmings, the Robertson wine valley is all that and a bag of chips. Known as the country's longest wine route, you can visit 36 wineries, discover hundreds of delicious wines and enjoy one of the many popular wine festivals on offer. And just a two-hour drive from Cape Town? We’re there.

The wine region runs along Route62 and comprises Robertson, Bonnievale, McGregor, Ashton and Montagu. The wineries sit pretty between the Langeberg and Riviersonderend mountain ranges, with the Breede River twisting its way through the region.

Instagram here we come.

The truth is, the Robertson Wine Valley has not always been famous for a variety of wine styles. Initially, a one-trick pony only known for its dessert wines. But, we’re happy to report that the region has undergone a wine evolution in the last 20 or so years.

We saw a welcome move away from distilling wine varieties as wine farmers began to plant the Big 6: Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. So now you'll find popular Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blancs and Cap Classiques, along with tasty reds: Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Another positive change to the valley? The introduction of boutique wine estates to the area—bringing exceptional quality wines and welcoming family-run farms.

So plan a visit. The vineyards will wow you in spring and autumn (and summer if you don't mind the heat), which is a great SOU H AFa R Iriver C A N cruise CONN O I S Sthe E UBreede R 1 2 time toTenjoy along River too.

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Rambling Around Robertson | FEATURE

1. AN HONOURABLE MENTION

Set in the heart of the Robertson Valley,

SPRINGFIELD ESTATE is a family-run wine farm

owned by ninth-generation descendants of French Huguenots. Rumour has it that they came to South Africa from the Loire in 1688 with bundles of vines under their arms. The farm has been in the family since 1898 and today uses a combination of sometimes risky winemaking techniques, traditional methods and modern technology. With a sense of practicality and dogged determination borne from living off the land all their lives, the Bruwer family can handcraft wine true to its motto: Made on Honour.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: You can enjoy informal wine tastings here. There's no need to book—a tasting fee of R80.00 for any five wines. There are also hour-long cellar tours on weekdays, where you can see how an authentic working cellar operates right through the year. Cellar tours are free of charge. www.springfieldestate.com

2. ONE OF THE FIRSTS

Wide-open spaces, beautiful mountain views and world-class wines are waiting to welcome you to RIETVALLEI WINE ESTATE. Rietvallei is counted among South Africa's oldest family-owned wine estates and was one of the first wine farms established in the Robertson area. The manor house, built in 1940, was the home of the Burger family for many years and has been remodelled and transformed into a new tasting centre, venue facilities and offices. The estate's fine selection of award-winning wines has been carefully selected and positioned over the years, slowly building up its award-winning portfolio.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: Wines are available for tasting and partner perfectly with delicious cheese platters. You can also try a Belgian chocolate pairing experience, pairing six Rietvallei classic wines with six unique Belgian chocolate creations. www.rietvallei.co.za

3. THE LIVING IS EASY

The VAN LOVEREN ESTATE has been in the Retief family since 1937, when Hennie Retief Snr. acquired the land and named it after Christiena van Loveren, an ancestor of his new bride, Jean van Zyl. From humble beginnings Van Loveren has grown to become South Africa's leading family-owned winery—known for its consistency, award-winning wines and innovation.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: Enjoy food and wine pairings, pod tastings and giant chess. There are also cellar and garden tours, bird watching and delicious dining (including wood-fired pizza) at Christina's Bistro inside the Manor House or in the beautiful, lush garden. There are also hiking, mountain bike trails and trail run tracks for the more adventurous. www.vanloveren.co.za

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FEATURE | Rambling Around Robertson

4. MAKE YOUR OWN WINE

The De Wet family have farmed at EXCELSIOR ESTATE, in the Robertson Wine Valley, since 1859. If you've ever contemplated making wine, then you have to visit Excelsior Wine Estate and attempt to make your own red blend.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: Try your hand at making your own red wine blend. First, you'll taste the three wines on offer to blend, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. Next, you'll tinker with your mixture according to your preferences. Once done, you even get to bottle and label your creation as a keepsake.

If you would instead leave the winemaking to the pros, we recommend tasting the Reserve range, especially a glass of the Evanthuis Cabernet Sauvignon. And, if you're looking for a place to stay, the Excelsior Manor Guesthouse offers luxury accommodation right on the farm. www.www.excelsior.co.za

5. FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS

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What started once as a simple vegetable farm has developed into the much-loved ESONA BOUTIQUE WINE ESTATE as it is known today. Esona's Old Cellar, with its underground fermentation tanks (kuips) takes you back to the former years of winemaking.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: The upstairs bistro has a small but enticing menu that focuses on supporting local products for platters and sandwiches. It also has a large deck surrounded by vineyards, overlooking the Breede River with views of the mountains. Standard tastings are done on the deck or inside, in front of the fire on cold days. For a unique wine tasting experience, taste underground in the wine fermentation cement tanks of the farm's 95-year-old building. Then, become an educated wine fundi by comparing two vintages of the single vineyard limited release wines. There is also a Riedel glass pairing with Lindt chocolates and local preserves. Yum! www.esona.co.za

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Rambling Around Robertson | FEATURE

6. BUBBLY’S BEST

GRAHAM BECK ESTATE is one of South Africa's leading family-owned estates, and they have purposefully endeavoured to produce South Africa's finest Méthode Cap Classique. And we're forever grateful. The estate believes in championing its farming community's development and progressive growth and is a leader in the restoration and ecological sustainability of the fragile South African ecosystem. The tasting room facilities feature eye-catching and distinctive architecture, while the structure blends effortlessly into the surrounding veld.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: The winery walls showcase an impressive local and international art collection and you can taste the iconic range of Cap Classiques while admiring the art.

There are also harvest platters to enjoy with locally sourced cheeses, charcuterie, freshly baked breads and a host of accompaniments. www.grahambeck.com

7. WELL SATISFIED

WELTEVREDE WINE ESTATE is set apart by its adventurous wines and gorgeous surroundings. The Weltevrede label was established as a wine brand in the 1940s with an official Weltevrede trademark registry in February 1950, making Weltevrede one of the oldest South African wine brands still owned and run by the same family. Today, the tradition is carried on by the 4th generation owner and winemaker, Philip Jonker, who has a passion for producing world-class Chardonnay. The name 'Weltevrede' means 'Well satisfied' or 'to be content'.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: Experience Robertson from underground at Weltevrede with a guided tour of the tunnels. It includes a wine tasting by candlelight in the cisterns built generations ago with stones brought up from the Breede River by donkey cart. If you'd prefer making to tasting, you can produce your very own bottle of Cap Classique to take home. www.weltevrede.com

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FEATURE | Rambling Around Robertson

7 AND THEN THERE'S MORE… Enough with vineyards? Here are some other things to explore: PAUL RENÉ MCC SPLASH OF PINK FESTIVAL, EVERY OCTOBER

Arrive in style—with a splash of pink— and enjoy the beauty and simplicity of the home of Paul Renè at the Wonderfontein farm. Here's your chance to experience the heart and soul of authentic handcrafted Paul Renè Brut, Brut Rose and Nectar. Icecold bubbly at a special festival price will be for sale all day, together with craft gin combinations. www.paulrenemcc.co.za

MARBRIN OLIVE FARM

For a relaxed outing, visit Marbrin Olive Farm and enjoy a tasting of delicious farm-fresh olives and olive oil. This small family-run boutique olive farm is nestled in the Robertson Breede River Valley. Marbrin extracts extra virgin olive oil and processes a unique range of table olives and tapenade.

So come and enjoy the ambiance of the area as well as the taste of olives and olive oil, a fruit well-known for its health benefits. www.marbrin.co.za 1 6

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ESELTJIESRUS DONKEY SANCTUARY

Did you know that donkeys are super affectionate animals and seek out company wherever they can get it? The kids will love visiting the Donkey Sanctuary. Eseltjiesrus provides a permanent home and loving care to destitute, rescued donkeys. Get behind the cause. Find out more about their vision and how to help on their website. www.donkeysanctuary.co.za

STAY THE NIGHT: THE ROBERTSON SMALL HOTEL

For a bit of luxury while road-tripping around Robertson, The Robertson Small Hotel has more than just a bed to offer you.

The hotel provides excellent five-star service with ten rooms, a new restaurant and bar, two pool areas, a wellness room and ample gardens. www.therobertsonsmallhotel.com

8. ALONG THE RIVER

Home to the Viljoen family,

VILJOENSDRIFT’S wine-making heritage dates

back to 1818, when their French Huguenot forefathers first planted vines. Today brothers Fred and Manie Viljoen continue this proud tradition, producing award-winning wines with global appeal. The terroir lends itself well to the growing of noble varietals such as Shiraz, Pinotage and Chardonnay. In 1998 after 30 years of supplying grapes to the local co-op, they have since re-aligned Viljoensdrift's focus to own label production and entered the marketplace, locally and internationally, with resounding success.

WHAT'S ON OFFER: Wine tourists can expect much more than just a taste of distinctive wines. You can also enjoy an inspirational riverside experience, including a relaxing boat trip on the waters of the Breede River, a taste adventure from the deli and a gourmet picnic on the banks of the river. www.viljoensdrift.co.za

'Marbrin now also hosts a Supper Club featuring food pairings with local wines and their oils for only R350pp.'Contact Marbrin for upcoming dates.'

'The Donkey Santuary also assist with the rehabilitation of donkeys elsewhere and provide education and training. The Sanctuary's vision is to promote the welfare and status of donkeys through a culture of caring.'

FESTIVALS MONTHS TO NOTE:

February: June: August: October:

Hands-on Harvest Festival Wacky Wine Weekend Festival Robertson Slow Festival Robertson Wine on the River Festival & Splash of Pink Festival

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2022/03/03 1:59 AM

I LIVE IN AN APARTMENT AND DO NOT HAVE THE SPACE (OR FINANCES) FOR A PROPER WINE CELLAR. I LIKE TO KEEP SEVERAL BOTTLES OF REASONABLY GOOD WINE ON HAND TO SHARE WITH FRIENDS. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO STORE IT UNTIL IT IS OPENED? The important thing to look for is a place with a constant temperature.

When wine is warmed it expands and a tiny amount of air escapes past the cork. When it cools it contracts and draws a small amount of air into the bottle. Obviously in time the air that has entered the bottle will cause oxidation and spoilage. I would recommend that you buy an insulated cool-box and keep it in a dark corner of your wardrobe, away from sunlight. Not ideal, but under the circumstances…

YOUR WINE FAQS YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED

I KNOW VERY LITTLE ABOUT WINE BUT ENJOY AN OCCASIONAL GLASS OF SOMETHING NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. I NOTE THAT SOME OF MY MORE SERIOUS FRIENDS HAVE CURIOUSLY SHAPED “TASTING GLASSES” THEY BRING OUT FROM TIME TO TIME. IS THERE ANY BENEFIT FROM THIS, OR IS IT JUST TO IMPRESS LESS EDUCATED FRIENDS LIKE ME? No, there really is a good reason for the shape of a tasting glass. It is designed with a wide section to provide a large surface area and therefore allow the aroma to form. The glass tapers to an arrow rim, so that aroma is gathered and concentrated for easy sniffing. It has a stem so it can be handled without leaving fingerprints on the bowl and masking the clarity of the contents. Voila! Maybe you should get one.

FAQ Autumn.indd 17

WE HEAR THE SOUTH AFRICAN WINE INDUSTRY IS SUFFERING A MAJOR BOTTLE SHORTAGE DUE TO A LACK OF GLASS-MAKING RAW MATERIALS. WOULD THIS NOT BE AN IDEAL TIME TO BE PRACTICAL AND SWITCH THE WHOLE INDUSTRY TO PLASTIC CONTAINERS WITH SCREW-CAPS? ANOTHER AGRICULTURAL PRODUCT, MILK, HAS BEEN SOLD IN PLASTIC, SCREWCAPPED CONTAINERS FOR YEARS AND IT DOESN’T APPEAR TO HAVE AFFECTED SALES TOO BADLY. There’s a lot more to wine than merely glugging it down. For centuries wine has been regarded with respect as an important part of civilised living. The opening of a bottle of wine is enhanced by several factors—the company we share it with, the attractive container and informative label, the drawing of the cork and the critical first sip. Wine is a living thing and no two glasses are exactly the same. Many other liquids are produced in factories in millions of bottles with the contents tasting exactly the same, so it doesn’t matter whether it’s served in a crystal glass or a plastic bucket.

But the opening of a bottle of wine is always an event—and an elegant bottle and the act of pulling out the cork adds to the happy mystery that is wine.

‘The opening of a bottle of wine is always an event—and an elegant bottle and the act of pulling out the cork adds to the happy mystery that is wine’

2022/03/04 1:18 PM

FEATURE | Beer

SEVEN

THINGS you didn’t know about

Next time you CRACK A BUD think about these FUN FACTS

1 8S O U T H

Beer Autumn.indd 18

AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2022/03/03 2:21 AM

Beer | FEATURE

1

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OBAMA’S OWN BREW

Barack Obama was the first American president to ever brew beer on the White House grounds— according to the official White House Blog. (Wait, there’s a White House blog?) You can view the recipes for The White House Honey Porter and White House Honey Ale on the blog too, which is made using the honey from the Executive House’s own beehives.

Wonder if Trump and Biden are fans?

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(DON’T) LET THERE BE LIGHT

Most of us know that beer is flavoured with hops, but did you know when hops are exposed to light they produce a compound that smells really bad? Dr. Charles Bamforth, a professor of brewing science at the University of California, says it reminds him of a distressed skunk. This is why most beer bottles are made of either brown or green glass, which keeps out the light and prevents the unpleasant odour from occurring.

BEER IS PRETTY OLD

According to The British Museum, a clay tablet (which dates back to 3000 BC) shows the very first recordings of beer. And, according to the Smithsonian, Egyptian pyramid workers were paid with beer. Workers received 5 litres of beer a day for all their hard work, says archaeologist Dr. Patrick McGovern. “You would have had a rebellion on your hands if they’d run out,” says Dr. McGovern.

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GIRLS RUN THE WORLD

Not only was beer big in ancient Egypt, but it was also traditionally brewed by women back in the day. Archaeological studies have also shown that brewing fell under the IT’S GOOD FOR YOUR BONES “gathering” department, which A 2009 study shows moderate alcohol intake (the was predominantly done by likes of beer and wine) increase participants’ bone women around the world. It mineral density in both men and postmenopausal wasn’t until beer was a hot women. Other bud-based studies show that beer is also good for lowering cholesterol, preventing kidney commodity that it became, and remains male dominant. stones and reducing stress. Right on!

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YOU CAN BATHE IN BEER

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In the Czech Republic there’s a spa that offers a relaxing bath in the ingredients used in the beer-brewing process. This forward-thinking health spa claims this practice helps to boost blood circulation, opens up pores and softens the skin. Annual membership, anyone?

YOU CAN STUDY BEER AT UNIVERSITY

While many students ace beer drinking during their studies, did you know you can actually study beer and beer making?

Officially, “a zythologist is a student and connoisseur of beer who possesses knowledge of ingredients, pouring techniques and beer pairings.” Meaning beer in ancient Greek, zythology is to beer what oenology is to wine.

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR1

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2022/03/03 2:21 AM

FEATURE | The Rings of Time

RINGS TIME...

The of

Malu Lambert takes a walk in the woods to learn more about some very noteworthy trees growing in the Cape winelands 2 0

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2022/03/03 3:35 AM

The Rings of Time | FEATURE

I

t’s cooler in the morning now, in the Southern Hemisphere the earth has started its tilt towards autumn, and with it, the seasonal trees mirror the changing light, reflecting back russets and glowing reds. If you look closely, trees are always telling a story in some way or the other.

Long has there been symbiosis between the fates of wine and trees. On a purely practical level oak has been the maturation vessel of choice for many hundreds of years, not to mention we harvest cork material from the bark of trees grown for that purpose alone.

“A tree is a WONDROUS THING that SHELTERS, FEEDS, AND PROTECTS all living things. It even OFFERS SHADE to the axmen who destroy it.” – Buddha Trees are also markers in time, clues to the past. A great library of such stories can

be found with a walk around the historic Vergelegen Wine Estate and its collection of diverse trees, many of them hundreds of years old. The mix of species itself also tells the tale of the trade route that the Cape was once the centre of.

Founded in 1700, the gracious estate is known for its sprawling, exquisite gardens.

Under a tree in the centre of them, spiky shells of chestnut cases dropping to the ground, I meet Richard Arm, the estate’s horticulturist. “I’m the resident tree hugger,” he affirms.

First up on our self-proclaimed tree-tour is ‘The Big Five’: five camphors that stand sentinel in front of the original homestead.

The trees were planted by Willem Adriaan van der Stel (former Cape governor and Vergelegen owner) between 1700 and 1706.

To get to them we walk through the Cape Dutch manor house, now a museum.

Richard points out doors and wooden chests all made with camphor wood, the very reason the trees were planted in the Cape in the first place. They are naturally

‘The REASON OAKS were brought over to SA in the FIRST PLACE was for WINEMAKING, intended for BARREL MAKING’

F-Trees Final.indd 21

Ancient Oak tree at Muratie

insecticidal and the wood is used to make furniture and camphor oils for insect repellents. After soaking up the stories of the past, imagining the early Cape Dutch settlers sitting down to their evening meal, the fire flickering in the hearth, we head out into the sun to see the line of towering trees, graceful and statuesque, throwing dappled shade across the lawn.

The trees were proclaimed national monuments in 1942 and it is believed they will live for another 150 to 200 years.

Richard suspects their existence is owed to the mere fact that they border what was once a driveway for the homestead. He surmises the owners liked to park in the shade (don’t we all). Other camphor trees would have been cut down and used for furniture and not have made it to such a venerable old age. Paying it forward, seedlings from these trees have been propagated into a nearby camphor forest, where the estate hosts its summer picnics.

“There’s an industry behind all trees,” nods Richard. “Come take a look at SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2 1

2022/03/03 10:33 AM

FEATURE | The Rings of Time

Camellia garden

SAVE THE DATE for ARBOR WEEK taking place between 21 & 29 May 2022 this,” he says, directing us to a large tree of many boughs, laden with green summer leaves. Also dating back to the 1700s, this white mulberry is the only vestige of Van der Stel’s attempt to start a silk industry in a factory in Cape Town’s Spin Street (rather aptly).

“This white mulberry has renewed itself over and over again as the old trunk has grown and produced branches that flop over and take root,” enthuses Richard, marvelling at the tree.

Speaking of business, the reason oaks were brought over to South Africa in the first place was for winemaking, intended for barrel making. The wood grew fast in our sunny clime making it too porous to be used in cooperage. So they were largely left alone to grow and now the Cape winelands boasts a proliferation of historic oaks on plenty of wine farms as well as dominating in nearby Stellenbosch, nicknamed ‘Eikestad’ or ‘Oak Town’.

The oldest known oak is right here at Vergelegen. We take a slow walk to the English oak, at 300-years-old it is believed to be the oldest living oak in Africa.

Richard allows me to look inside the tree; it is completely hollow, supported by iron poles. “Now you’re inside the story,” he quips.

Close by is another famous oak, one that has blue blood. The Royal Oak was planted 2 2

Old Yellowood

by previous owners of the estate, Sir Lionel and Lady Florence Phillips.

“It all started with an acorn,” explains Richard. “The Duchess of Marlborough gave Sir Lionel an acorn that was one of the last from King Alfred’s mediaeval oaks at Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire. The acorn survived the sea trip from the UK to the Cape in the 1920s and duly grew into a giant oak. Since then, acorns have been taken back to England for planting in Windsor Great Park and Blenheim Palace.”

Here also oak saplings have been grown at the estate from its acorns, ‘so the royal line will live on.’

“EVERY WALK in the FOREST is like taking a SHOWER IN OXYGEN.” Peter Wohlleben, The Hidden Life of Trees.

We walk through the rustle of a bamboo walkway; silence descending like only

BEWARE THE BEETLE An on-going concern for trees worldwide is a pest known as the polyphagous shot hole borer beetle (PSHB). This tiny beetle bores into tree trunks, introducing a fungus that weakens and often kills the trees. The beetle was discovered in South Africa in 2017. Vergelegen Wine Estate is the site of an intensive three-year research project on the beetle in order to safeguard the Cape’s tree heritage and the study so far has yielded valuable insights as well as promising ways to deal with the pest.

Octagonal garden with view of homestead

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2022/03/03 12:32 PM

The Rings of Time | FEATURE

WINELANDS TREES TO NOTE There are plenty of other significant trees in the Cape winelands, some of which have inspired wines. Some to note are:

Strolling among Camphor trees

• Standing right next to the cellar door of MURATIE WINE ESTATE is an oak planted in 1699.

• The old pear tree at BELLINGHAM, which is said to be hundreds of years old.

• KEN FORRESTER has an oak on his Stellenbosch property purported to be 250-years-old.

‘Trees have LONG BEEN TRYING to REACH US. But they SPEAK on FREQUENCIES TOO LOW for people to hear.’

Richard Powers, The Overstory

New arboretum being planted

• At RUSTENBERG, their premium Chardonnay is named for five large stone pine trees on a hill that look over the Five Soldiers vineyards.

• STONY BROOK makes a Chardonnay and Semillon blend inspired by their Ghost Gum tree.

• At VAN LOVEREN WINE ESTATE explore their heritage tree garden.

• STARK-CONDÉ makes both a Cabernet as well as a Syrah with the moniker ‘Three Pines’ for the three pines that sit at a high elevation overlooking the vineyards.

• The Single Tree Chardonnay of UVA MIRA MOUNTAIN VINEYARD is a single vineyard wine, named after the candlewood tree that stands at the centre of the block. the thickness of foliage can create. We come to a swing bridge; the Lourens River churns beneath it, strewn with boulders. This is the start of the Yellowwood Trail. Tall, skinny trees gather in density as we walk up the path to a 400-year-old yellowwood. At the heart of this forest the giant tree is like some kind of sea monster, branches curling in every direction, thick and loopy.

“We call this the octopus tree,” says Richard smiling. “It was struck by lightning and just left to grow. Yellowwood generally grows very straight and is why it is used for furniture. This tree has survived all these years because it is an oddity – there was no commercial reason to cut it down.”

On the way back we pass the dormant camellia trees. In the winter these magic trees bloom with the most magnificent flowers. It has been proclaimed an International Camellia Garden of Excellence, one of only 39 such gardens in the world. This and the maple trees also along the path are both nods to the eastern influence in the garden.

Then there are also the two ginkgo tree saplings, which have been grown from seeds of a 300-year-old tree that survived the 1945 Hiroshima bombing in Japan, planted on behalf of the Green Legacy Hiroshima (GLH) initiative.

The saplings are rooted at the end of the East Garden, embraced by two simple wooden sculptures, which were carved from storm-damaged trees.

“The trees are a message of hope and renewal, as well as to mark the intention to start an extensive arboretum at the estate,” elaborates Richard.

To this end Vergelegen has started planting a vast 54-hectare botanical garden devoted to trees. This arboretum is being created in a phased approach over ten years, during which about 7500 trees will be planted to create a wooded sanctuary, threaded with walking trails.

Like an ever-expanding novel, Vergelegen’s trees continue into the future.

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SOUTH AFRICAN

Africa’s oldest Oak CONNOISSEUR 2 3

2022/03/04 1:34 PM

FEATURE | The Art of Wine

A vibey brand home: ENOTECA

Le Grand Domaine Enoteca is open Tuesdays to Sundays, and you’ll find them at Shop 1 Oude Bank, 7 Church Street, Stellenbosch. For more information contact them on 021 300 3279, email enoteca@ granddomaine.co.za or visit www.legranddomaine.co.za.

A

Situated in Stellenbosch’s iconic Church Street, Le Grand Domaine Enoteca is the new chic and vibey brand home of Le Grand Domaine & Stellenview wines.

A joint venture between Le Grand Domaine and Stellenview Premium Wines, the latest ‘place to be seen’, is an opulent showcase for both brands’ handcrafted, premium quality wines full of character and flavour. The ranges on offer include The Pledge, as well as the internationally awarded Stellenview Premium Wines and its subsidiary labels; Kruger Family Reserve, KFK Reserve, Cape Five Reserve and Organic Reserve Red. The elegant and welcoming ambience is adorned with beautifully crafted joinery, accentuated copper finishes, leather and solid wooden chairs and tables creating comfortable seating spaces inside and, for an al fresco experience, on the sidewalk under the shade of parasols and oak trees.

The brand home’s “wine library” serves as a hands-on source of information for the impressive line-up of wines. Having more than thirty wines available side-by-side for tasting and comparison the Enoteca offers our visitors a holistic wine experience and insight into the variety of labels that are produced by the two producers. All wines are offered by tasting portion, glass, and bottle The bistro styled menu offers classic dishes with a twist. Expect to find Mussels in Garlic Miso Broth, Pan Seared Duck Breast with Balsamic Blackberry Sauce and Truffe Parmesan Fries with Aioli – a menu which prides itself in locally sourced seasonal produce and thus changed seasonally.

As an Enoteca small quantities of each wine are kept in supply, and guests who wish to purchase large quantities can do so via their online store (www. stellenview.co.za). However, if you wish to take home a bottle or two, you are more than welcome to purchase it from the Enoteca.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

SAC Aut22 Advertorial Le Grand.indd 24

2022/03/03 3:39 AM

Wild About Garlic | RECIPES

There’s nothing better than stumbling upon a PATCH OF WILD GARLIC. HARVEST your findings and get straight to the KITCHEN. From its leaves to the delicate flowers - wild green garlic is entirely edible.

W ILD about

G A R LIC Wild Garlic Burger (Vegetarian), p.26 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Recipes-autumn.indd 25

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2022/03/03 10:40 AM

RECIPES | Wild About Garlic

WILD GARLIC BURGER (VEGETARIAN) Makes 4 INGREDIENTS: For the wild garlic oil 2 handfuls wild garlic salt freshly ground black pepper 100ml olive oil For the patties 260ml vegetable stock 120g bulgur wheat 2 shallots 1 tbsp butter 2 stalks wild garlic 2 tbsp walnut halves 3 tbsp breadcrumbs, plus extra if needed 1 large egg 2 tbsp vegetable oil, for frying To serve 1 avocado 100g cream cheese 1 tbsp lemon juice 200g radishes, with tops 4 burger buns or bread rolls with poppy seeds

DIRECTIONS: 1. For the wild garlic oil, wash the wild garlic, shake dry, chop coarsely and purée with a pinch of salt, pepper and the olive oil until blended but still with some texture.

2. Bring the vegetable stock to the boil in a saucepan, sprinkle in the bulgur wheat and leave to soak, covered, over a very low heat for about 12 min. Remove the lid to release the steam then tip the bulgur wheat into a bowl.

3. Peel and finely dice the shallots and sauté in the butter for 2-3 min until translucent.

4. Wash and chop the wild garlic.

5. Coarsely chop the walnuts and add to the bulgur with the shallots, breadcrumbs and egg.

6. Season with salt and pepper and mix thoroughly with your hands. If it's too wet, add a few more breadcrumbs. Shape into four patties.

7. Halve the avocado, remove the stone and lift the flesh out of the skin. Blend with the cream cheese, lemon juice and half of the wild garlic oil until creamy.

Season with salt and pepper.

8. Reserve a few small radishes to garnish and thinly slice the rest.

9. Fry the patties in vegetable oil in a non-stick pan for about 4 min on each side.

10. Cut the buns in half, warm them slightly to taste and spread the avocado cream on the bottom half.

11. Place the patties on top, add radish slices and whole radishes and drizzle with wild garlic oil. Put the bun lid on and serve.

DIRECTIONS: 1. Put the cream cheese in a food processor or blender. Wash the wild garlic, shake dry and reserve a few leaves.

Roughly chop the remaining leaves, add to the cream cheese with salt, pepper and oil and purée until smooth and creamy.

2. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add the vinegar. Turn the heat down so the water is just below boiling. Stir to create a whirlpool. Crack the eggs one at

a time into a ladle, slide them into the water and poach for 4-5 min. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

3. Cut the croissants in half, spread the bottom halves with the cream cheese, top with the reserved wild garlic leaves and place the poached eggs on top.

4. Grind over with a little pepper, put on the croissant lid and serve.

CROISSANT WITH WILD GARLIC CREAM CHEESE AND POACHED EGG Makes 4 INGREDIENTS: 250g cream cheese 1 handful wild garlic salt freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp olive oil 75 ml vinegar 4 eggs 4 croissants

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2022/03/03 10:42 AM

Wild About Garlic | RECIPES

Croissant with Wild Garlic Cream Cheese and Poached Egg, p.26

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Recipes-autumn.indd 27

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2022/03/03 10:43 AM

RECIPES | Wild About Garlic

WILD GARLIC FALAFEL Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: For the falafel 200g dried chickpeas 1 handful wild garlic 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 1 tsp ground cumin chilli powder 1 large egg white 1 tbsp chickpea flour, extra if needed vegetable oil, for frying For the flatbreads 170g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp baking powder 1 pinch baking soda

Wild Garlic Falafel

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¼ tsp salt 60ml water 50g natural yoghurt 1 tbsp vegetable oil To serve 150g radishes 200g natural yoghurt 1 tbsp lemon juice salt freshly ground black pepper ½ handful herbs, such as parsley or basil 1 tbsp chives, finely chopped DIRECTIONS: 1. For the falafel, soak the chickpeas in cold water overnight. Drain well.

2. Wash the wild garlic, shake dry, set a few leaves aside and roughly chop the rest.

3. Mix the chickpeas and wild garlic with the baking powder, salt, cumin, a little chilli powder and the egg white in a food processor until well combined. Finally, work in the chickpea flour and a little more water if needed. Shape into approx.

3cm balls with dampened hands. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

4. For the flatbreads, mix all the ingredients except the oil into a smooth dough. If necessary, add a little more flour or water. Cover the dough and let it rest for about 30 min. Then divide into four portions, roll out thinly on a lightly floured work surface and fry, one at a time, in the oil for 2-3 min each side until cooked through and lightly browned.

5. Thinly slice the radishes. Season the yoghurt with lemon juice, salt and pepper.

6. Half-fill a deep pan or deep fat fryer with oil and heat to approx. 170 °C. Fry the falafel in batches for 4-5 min until crispy. Pat dry with kitchen paper.

7. Arrange the flatbreads on plates. Top with the remaining wild garlic, radishes, herbs and falafel.

8. Drizzle with a little yoghurt, garnish with chives and serve with the rest of the yoghurt on the side.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2022/03/03 3:47 AM

Wild About Garlic | RECIPES

WILD GARLIC PASTA WITH GREEN ASPARAGUS AND HAM Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: 2 handfuls wild garlic, with buds 3 tbsp pine nuts salt 60g Parmesan cheese, grated 75ml olive oil freshly ground black pepper 200g green asparagus, thin stalks 400g green tagliatelle 100g Parma ham 1 ball Buffalo Mozzarella, about 150g DIRECTIONS: 1. Wash the wild garlic, shake dry and reserve a few leaves with the buds for decoration. Blitz the rest of the leaves with 1 tbsp pine nuts, a little salt, 30g Parmesan, olive oil and black pepper in a mini food processor or herb chopper to make a pesto.

2. Trim the asparagus and peel the lower third if necessary.

3. Cook the tagliatelle in a pan of boiling salted water for about 6-7 min according to the pack instructions until al dente.

Add the asparagus spears to the pasta for the last 4 min. Drain and toss with three quarters of the pesto in a bowl.

4. Spoon onto a platter and arrange the ham in waves on top. Place the Mozzarella on top and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan and pine nuts.

5. Garnish with wild garlic leaves and buds and serve with the remaining pesto.

SOUTH

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Wild Garlic Pasta with Green Asparagus and A F R I C A N C O N N OHam ISSEUR

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2022/03/03 10:44 AM

WINE | Panel Report

An ODE to AUTUMN – A Homage to Keat’s Season of Mellow Fruitfulness Riper and richer, deeper-toned and generous, autumn is here. We report on wines to match the season.

BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2022/03/03 3:53 AM

Panel Report | WINE

“D

amn it! It’s all back to front, wrong way round and just plain wrong!” The old man was indignant, his grey hair unusually long. He was yelling about Covid, about how it’s changed the seasons for us.

He explains: in spring, when we should have been bouncing back after a lengthy winter, instead we were tightly bound in lockdown.

Now it’s autumn and suddenly we’re bouncing back when we should be calming down. We are so out of step with the season.

He’s right of course, but it’s us humans who are upset and confused. Mother Nature carried on, unfazed by Covid, and autumn is behaving just like it should, and on time, too. As the days shorten, Nature puts on a final flourish of ripening and richness to dazzle us with a last glorious show before winter. It’s Keats’s season of “mellow fruitfulness” to charm and nourish us mentally, physically and, most of all, spiritually for winter’s quiet. Fruit trees are heavily laden, crops are being eagerly harvested, fabulous flowers bloom and perhaps most important for us wine lovers, the last ripest grapes are wending their way to cellars.

To honour autumn we look at four appropriate styles of wine; wines to enjoy and make us think as the mellow golden days shorten.

DO DRY WHITES DO THE TRICK? Now, here’s a category that makes us sit up and take notice––it’s a work in progress as our talented winemakers play around with an exciting selection of new and old varieties and find new ways to make them fit together. For us it’s great, too, because we can sit and puzzle over what they’ve done. As we slow down after summer it’s good to actually sit and take notice of what’s in the glass and to think about what’s going on in there.

First, remember what you bought because there’s a big difference between a cheerful little number for about R50 a bottle that shows two or more varieties on the label, or another at around R100, also made from a couple of varieties, or possibly with a smart name. The cheapie may be charming and fun, but will almost certainly not be wine for contemplation, which is exactly what the more expensive wine will do for you. This will be nicely ripe, almost certainly oaked and carefully blended—the sort of wine to make you think. Two styles for two types of consumer. Nothing wrong with that.

That’s exactly what the panel points out.

“So many large-volume producers are climbing on the white blend bandwagon, but with no real substance,” grumbles Clive.

“Why are there so many with Sauvignon Blanc in the blend?” asks Claude plaintively.

“It’s strange, because Sauvignon sells so well,” muses Irina. “I would’ve thought there would be nothing left for blending.”

“I find the unwooded wines very indifferent,” says Colin, “but the wooded ones are way above average.”

“Mmm, looking at those high-volume blends there is some charm there,” says Irina, “but all those with Colombar tend to SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2022/03/03 3:54 AM

WINE | Panel Report

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL DRY WHITE BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Allée Bleue Isabeau 2017

dilute, sometimes even spoil the blends. We need to separate the special blends from those.”

So we talk about the higher quality blends.

Winnie is really excited. “Great blends, lots of playing around especially with the Rhône varieties… and the creativity…” her voice trails off.

But Greg is not quite with her. “I’m not so excited, but I agree about the creativity. We have all these interesting varieties. It’s good to see Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, for example, playing a role.”

Irina adds: “Most of these white blends show that someone has really tried hard, and it’s a funny thing, one can always pick that up.”

Clive, too: “This is where I’ll shop—masterful blending. I keep finding Reserve selection wines among them, and almost always among the Rhône styles!”

Greg points to a problem. “We struggle to sell these in the restaurant,” he says. “Customers want single variety wines.” He should know. He’s the head sommelier at the very upmarket Twelve

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Apostles Hotel. So his customers prefer varietal wines and miss out on these stars? What a shame.

Clive has an answer though. “They need branding,” he says, “like Buitenblanc or Lyric— those are huge brands.”

Christine joins in, “Most of these blends are made from grapes that are harvested ripe—that’s where the flavour comes from.”

But Dave has other ideas. He goes back to the simpler wines. “I like these for fun drinking,” he says, “and not as statement wines. I don’t want to take off my hat AND shoes in homage, just to have a drink!”

IT’S ALL IN THE BLEND Red Blends is another category where our winemakers are having a good time playing around and experimenting.

Greg puts it oh-so succinctly, “When it works, it works, and Rhônes work.”

And so they should—those Frenchies have had a couple of hundred years start on us. (Rhône styles are almost always led by Shiraz with added varieties such as Cinsaut, Mourvèdre and Grenache, sometimes with a splash of the white variety, Viognier, to add perfume.)

Colin points out: “Shiraz has proved itself over and over again as a good blending partner. All my Reserve scores have gone to those with Shiraz in them.” He’s a fan of Shiraz and there’s a lot of Shiraz!

Clive agrees. “I prefer the Rhône styles,” he says.

“I love them.

Irina raises a different tissue, “I think the role of Pinotage needs to be explored further. It adds a lovely fruitiness and generosity to the blends, as well as putting a distinctive SA stamp on the wine,

ALSO LIKED: Babylonstoren Candide 2020, Boland One Formation White Blend 2020, Retief Reserve Cape Blend White 2019, Villiera White Blend 2020 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Boland Classic Chenin Sauv Blanc 2020, Cavalli Cremello 2018, Darling Lime Kilns 2018, De Krans Tritonia 2018, Ernst Gous & Co 2020, MAN White Blend 2020, Simonsig Grapesmith Die Kluisenaar 2018, Simonsig Grapesmith Mediterraneo 2019, Stonedance Granite White 2020, Truter Agaat Christina 2018

SWEET WHITE WINES WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2020 ALSO LIKED: Darling Winemaker’s Selection Bukettraube 2020, Paul Cluver Estate Riesling 2018, Waverley Hills Organic Pinot Grigio 2020, Wellington Imprint Frizzante Blanc NV WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Balance Natural Sweet White NV, De Krans Premium Moscato Perle 2020, Delheim Gewürztraminer 2019, De Wet Pettilant Fonte NV, De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018, De Wetshof Riesling 2017, Hartenberg Occasional Riesling 2017, Nitida Riesling 2020, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2019, Van Loveren SLH Gewürztraminer 2019

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Panel Report | WINE

and I like that.”

“Shiraz is supreme,” another quick quote from man-of-few-words, Greg.

“Cab Franc is my favourite,” says Clive. Oops, now he’s forgotten those Rhônes he loves so much.

Christine notes there were very interesting blends, with some added sugars. “That makes for easier drinking, no bad thing,” she says, and then goes on, “No hard tannins, and that’s the whole point of the blends, isn’t it?”

But it seems we just can’t get away from Shiraz.

“I’m such a Shiraz fan,” says Dave, “that when I see it in a blend I expect something nice and warming.”

Winnie sums up: “This is the category for experimentation. You can try anything. There are no bars at all.”

It also means us consumers can experiment and find styles that we like. It may be a Shirazbased blend, or a full-blown Rhône style, or one of the newer Cabernet-led blends, Sauvignon or Franc, blended with anything but another Bordeaux variety.

CALLING ALL CABS Here’s a variety that needs no introduction— surely everyone’s favourite. It’s not exactly like your best pal; it’s way too serious for that. No, it’s the CEO, the Chairman of the Board when it comes to grapes, something we drink on Special Occasions. It seems to exert a civilising influence—we behave better, dress better and definitely cook better when Cab is around!

Cab, and it is Cabernet Sauvignon we’re talking about, will always taste like Cab, but the major challenge is managing tannins because those tiny black grapes are full of it. It’s in their thick skin, the pips and the stalks and it takes a really smart winemaker to deal with it, to judge exactly how much to leave in the wine and how much to take away.

High praise from Colin. “The wines we’re tasting are of a high standard, and well balanced.

I score these very highly. As a category, the wines are well made and there are some real stars.”

Greg becomes positively voluble. “I always have high expectations when I taste Cab,” he says, “but when I find green tannin I am unhappy. It’s a tannic variety, but there’s no need for harsh tannins.”

Clive echoes this. “A lot of berry flavours, which is very nice,” he says, “but why the tough tannins? It spoils a great product.”

Malu makes a good point. “Of all the categories, the Cab one has several wines from each vintage, and 2017 is head and shoulders above the rest. Best by far.”

Winnie suggests an answer. “Lockdown has helped, they have had extra time on the cork.”

Yes, well, the producers will not exactly be happy about that. They would have preferred to have sold their wines by now, but Covid intervened.

Malu has more to say. “We need Cabs to be expressive and they actually need oak. Why are we seeing unoaked Cabs, it doesn’t make sense.”

Well, um, it’s about money, or the lack of it right now, the industry has taken a severe knock.

Claude is there, too: “What’s missing is new oak.”

He has mentioned this a couple of times across

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL RED BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: The High Road Director’s Reserve 2016 ALSO LIKED: Clos Malverne Cab Merlot 2017, Simonsig Tiara 2016, Stellekaya Orion 2016, Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2018 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Allée Bleue Cab Merlot 2016, Allée Bleue Cab Merlot 2017, Bellevue Tumara 2018, Cavalli Warlord 2018, Clarington Cab Merlot 2016, DeMorgenzon Maestro Red 2016, Doolhof Theseus 2016, Simonsig Cab Merlot 2019, Simonsig Tiara 2017, The High Road Director’s Reserve 2017, Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2019, Van Loveren Rhino Run Ian Player 2020

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WINE | Panel Report

several categories. It’s a sign of the times, sadly, but is bound to change soon.

Clive changes tack. “I would love more concentration,” he says, “harvesting 48 bunches per vine is not good. In France it’s six bunches. We need more oak, and much more concentration.”

So why are we looking at red wines right now?

Because it’s the right time to make selections and lay in supplies for winter. Find reds you like and buy a couple of cases and let them rest in a cool dark place. You’ll be amazed at the difference between a well-rested red and another, newly arrived at home after a hurried trip to the shop, all shaken up. So do the planning and give your wines time to regain their composure and relax and they will reward you well.

TIME FOR SWEETS It’s amazing how the mood in the tasting room changes when sweet wines are poured.

There are big smiles all round, even a giggle or two. Are we going back to childhood treats, forbidden pleasures? Or are these wines just plain fun? Perhaps it’s all of these, but they certainly enhance the mood, and surely that’s the very purpose of wine? As autumn adds sugar and lusciousness to fruit, it seems right to follow the season’s lead in our imbibing. So pour a muscadel and treat yourself to a big think. After all, it’s supposed to be a contemplation wine.

Meantime, in the tasting room, we are in for a bad surprise. The wines with only a little sugar disappoint, and badly so.

Christine says, “Wishy-washy wines with a little sugar. Even if you put fizz into these they’re still useless.”

And our all-time lover of sweet wines, Dave says, “I was looking forward to this and I’m so disappointed.” He really looks like a kid who has dropped his ice cream.

Christine adds another thought: “The semi-sweets don’t work unless aromatic varieties are used, something like Gewürztraminer.”

Good point, we’ve often been enchanted by semi-sweet Gewürz or Muscat.

Winnie is unhappy too. “Lack of acidity,” she says, “no freshness, or grip.”

“The trouble is this Late Harvest category,” says Irina. “A basically poor wine gets a dose of sweet reserve (a concentrated sweetening syrup) and that’s that. It remains a poor wine, but now it’s a sweetish poor wine.”

Sadly there are only one or two Special Late Harvests (a high-quality sweet with no added sugar allowed). We all agree that once we’re into the Noble Late Harvests the wines are excellent—they have ripeness, genuine sweetness and botrytis and gather high scores. The fortified wines, too, the muscadels and hanepoots are delicious and sublimely sweet.

Sweet wines have a problem, though. As a group they have an image problem— they are hopelessly unfashionable except among wine experts who value them highly. So how about setting a new trend at your next dinner party? Instead of pouring another glass of red with dessert (it doesn’t work) why not serve a delicious well-chilled sweetie? Go ahead. Be brave. It will work, for sure, and soon everyone will be smiling. There may even be a giggle or two.

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Lovane Isikhati 2017 ALSO LIKED: Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Dornier Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Laibach Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Napier Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Boland Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018, Cloof Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, De Wetshof Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Eikendal Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Gustus Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Lovane Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Lovane Isikhati 2018, Napier Lion Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Nitida Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Piekenierskloof Six Hats Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Springfield Estate Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, UniWines Daschbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Vergelegen Premiun Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Warwick Blue Lady Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Find reds you like and BUY A COUPLE OF CASES and let them REST IN A COOL DARK PLACE. You’ll be AMAZED at the DIFFERENCE...

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website

WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

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CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Dornier Cocoa Hill Red 2019 (Price R110) The wine shows aromas of black and red fruit, pepper and a hint of spice.

The palate is flavourful and well balanced with pure fruit, fresh acidity and fine tannins and a lingering finish. Drink from 2021 for up to 5 years. PAIRING: Braised oxtail, Boeuf bourguignon, charcuterie platter and smoked kudu carpaccio.

2. Marklew Cape Georgian Merlot 2020 (Price R139) Full ripe berries on the nose followed by flavours on the mid palate that range from cherries to cinnamon buns. The luscious ripe tannins contribute to the weight of the wine and create a dark chocolate finish. Cellar for 3-5 years.

PAIRING: Steak, venison and veal. Also a great partner for curries and stew dishes.

3. Warwick Trilogy 2014 (Price R579) The palate is rich and concentrated with intensity and structure. Black berries and cassis follow from the initial aromas though on to a complex aroma of sweet spices and a lovely savoury element. The tannins are firm, but well structured. Cellar for 5-10 years.

PAIRING: Rare beef fillet with Chinese barbecue sauce or carpaccio with anchovy cream and truffle oil.

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4. Swartland Limited Release Carignan 2020 (Price R149) Mocha chocolate and ripe red fruits, with nuances of spice on the nose. Rich aromas carry through onto the palate, with vibrant red fruits and mocha undertones, combining with rich, dried peach. The fruit is neatly framed by elegant tannins. PAIRING: Coq au vin, barbecue lamb brochettes with lemon and garlic or shepherd’s pie.

5. Stellenbosch Vineyards Shiraz 2019 (Price R125) Complex bouquet of plum, red berries and white pepper flavours. Well balanced with layers of dark fruit and spices, complemented by good integrated tannins and a long soft finish. Drink now or cellar for 7 years from vintage. PAIRING: Brisket, flame grilled rib-eye steak or hearty beef stews.

6. Stellekaya Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R220) Intense, full bodied wine with cedar, blackcurrants and a hint of cranberry.

Well-balanced showing characters of sweet fruits and toastiness. The balance between fruit, acidity and wood character is good, ensuring long term cellaring.

Cellar for 8-10 years. PAIRING: Slowroasted leg of lamb, beef short ribs or porcini mushroom risotto.

7. Boland Reserve Merlot 2018 (Price R159) Concentrated yet ripe Merlot flavours of red cherries, youngberries, plums and red berries. Layers of oak spice and wood shavings integrated with savoury and tomato notes mingling together with a long and lingering finish. A firmly structured and full-bodied wine which will benefit from careful ageing.

PAIRING: Grilled sirloin and rump steaks.

8. Withington Malbec 2020 (Price R140) An easy-drinking, yet elegant wine with fabulous juicy red-berry flavours that can only come from well nurtured sunripened grapes, gently crushed, slowly fermented and quietly matured. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoyed on its own, with biltong, dark chocolate or turmeric ravioli with an aubergine parmiggiana filling.

9. Roan Ranger 2019 (Price R125) A blend of Grenache, Cinsaut and Mourvèdre made in the classical slightly wooded Rhône-style. This red blend has perfumed aromas of rose, pomegranate, dried herbs and red fruits. An easy drinking wine, which can be enjoyed slightly chilled. Drink now. PAIRING: Game meats or steak.

‘Rich aromas carry through onto the palate, with vibrant red fruits and mocha undertones’

Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door.

Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

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The Numbers Game How can we accept the magic of wine when it’s reduced to a mere number by a judging panel? By David Biggs

T

he Wine-of-the-Month Club judging panel is probably one of the most qualified and experienced groups of wine tasters to be found anywhere in South Africa. The members are all highly qualified and have served on the judging panels of every major wine competition in the country. So, it’s no wonder that their opinions are often sought—and respected.

Every week the team faces an array of up to 80 glasses; twenty each of four different wine categories, generally two white and two red. Judges work at their own pace, and in silence. Each wine is examined, sniffed and sipped, and given a score on a scale of up to 200 points. So the wines eventually selected for inclusion in the members’ packs can reasonably be expected to be of good quality and free of faults.

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This might sound rather cold and clinical to an outsider, and have little to do with the reality of wine enjoyment. How can we accept the magic of wine once it has been reduced to a mere number? How can we respect the opinion of a judge who sipped the wine in silent isolation? Wine is there to be shared with friends.

Many of us will remember delightful moments of wine shared with good company—the laughter, the wisdom and the surroundings—long after we have forgotten the name on the wine bottle’s label. So what, you may ask, is the point of all the judging and scoring if the quality of the wine is irrelevant?

Not irrelevant at all!

Whether it is an inexpensive Cinsaut enjoyed at a riverside braai or a chilled bottle of Dom Perignon Champagne shared in a lover’s boudoir the wine plays an important role in the total experience.

Many writers have spoken of the role wine plays in human life. Galileo described

wine as, “Sunshine held together by water.”

Wine writer Hugh Johnson wrote: “All wine associations are with occasions when people are at their best; with relaxation, leisurely meals and the free flow of ideas.”

Louis Pasteur said: “Wine is the most healthful and hygienic of beverages.”

Author Ernest Hemingway described wine as “The most civilised thing in the world.”

Now, in a time of worldwide tensions and pandemic panic it’s good to know there’s that panel of experts sitting regularly in Cape Town to provide Wine-ofthe-Month Club members with a little much-needed health, hygiene and soothing civilisation.

Cheers!

‘It’s good to know Wine-of-the-Month Club’s panel of experts sits regularly to provide their members with a little much-needed health, hygiene and soothing civilisation’

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Reserved. Refined. Revered.

L’Ormarins, Always.

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