SA Connoisseur - Issue 289, Winter 2022

VOL 289

HOW TO BE THE PERFECT

WINE SNOB Hello, PORTO!

THE RISE OF

AFRICAN RUM

d n E s ' y Jou rne Discover

4 WINTER SOUPS

Recipes for the Soul

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

EDITORIAL DIR ECTOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIR ECTOR Taryn Breetzke ASSISTANT ART DIR ECTOR Alison Dingle FR EELANCE DESIGNER Shannon Latimer WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COOR DINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Chesray Apolis R EGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTR IBUTORS Malu Lambert & Clifford Roberts (articles) Lorraine Lines (Consultant) CONTACT ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to: The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848.

Send press releases via email to alison@wineofthemonth.co.za.

All contributions are edited for space and style.

FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth

South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it.

The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

SMALL BERRIES,

BIG TASTE

SAVOUR SWARTLAND’S WINERY’S BUSHVINE PINOTAGE At Swartland’s Winery, their premium single varietal ranges are produced exclusively from characterful bush vines grown in the heart of the Swartland—yielding wines of distinctive depth and concentration.

The Bushvine Pinotage has subtle notes of vanilla, red berry and prune on the nose. Red berry fruit flavours integrate with a gentle spiciness and velvety tannins followed by a smokey, toasty finish. Enjoy with spare ribs, pepper steak or ostrich carpaccio.

Swartland Wines are available for purchase in the Tasting Room at cellar door prices.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ESTATE VISIT

W W W. SWA RTL A ND W INERY. CO .ZA

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CONTENTS 04 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 SAY HELLO TO ROLLO GABB OF JOURNEY’S END 10 SAXENBURG: A TALE OF TWO ICONS 12 TULBAGH: THE ULTIMATE SMALL TOWN TRIP 18 FIVE THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT ERNIE ELS WINES 20 WINE SNOB 101: A GLASS FULL OF BULL 22 DISCOVER STELLENBOSCH RESERVE 24 MALU LAMBERT SIPS HER WAY THROUGH PORTO 27 DON’T JUDGE A WINE BY ITS CAN 28 WHY TOKARA ESTATE TICKS ALL THE BOXES

30 CLIFFORD ROBERTS ON THE RISE OF AFRICAN RUM 33 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 34 DISCOVER THE WATERFORD WAY 36 WHAT TO READ THIS WINTER 38 STORY TIME WITH MURATIE WINE ESTATE 39 FOUR SOUP RECIPES FOR THE SOUL 47 IRINA VON HOLDT ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 53 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE— A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 56 DAVID BIGGS ON WINE’S ROYALTY

VOL 289

HOW TO BE THE PERFECT

WINE SNOB

THE RISE OF

AFRICAN RUM

Hello, PORTO!

Jou rney's End Discover

4 WINTER SOUPS

Recipes for the Soul

ON THE COVER Discover Journey’s End p.8

Tulbagh Here We Come p.12

C O SY U P

Soups that Stir the Soul p.39

Porto p.24

13 in One p.6

The Rise of African Rum p.30

Winter is a time to rest and recharge, huh? And isn’t what you love most about the cold weather (besides your fluffy gown) is how it encourages us all to slow down a little? In this issue enjoy our featured wine farms, restaurants and getaways for the winter months, all designed to keep you company on the couch. Put another log on the fire, get cosy and enjoy!

To kick us off, Malu Lambert tells us about beautiful PORTO on p.24. As part of Portugal’s Iberian peninsula, Porto is one of Europe’s oldest cities. Naturally, Malu tastes and reports back on plenty of Port while she’s there—bringing home some local sipping inspiration too.

From sweet glasses of Port to barrels full of golden RUM, Clifford Roberts heads to Elgin to explore how this tipple is shaking off its Captain Jack Sparrow image—thanks to some forward-thinking local producers.(p.30) Moving from the mountains of the Overberg to the charming small town of TULBAGH, on p.12 we share everything we love about this homely getaway. We spotlight some favourite wine farms and a few hidden gems for coffee, pastries, hikes and more.

Next, we head to the kitchen for some serious soup making.

Taken from Chef Mynhardt Joubert’s new book My Station Street Kitchen, we share four heart–and–belly–warming SOUP RECIPES to make this winter. (p.39) Speaking of good books, we’ve also included seven BOOZEINSPIRED READS to add to your winter-to-do list—from romantic memoirs to handy manuals on p.36.

For a great laugh, David Biggs takes a swing at WINE SNOBBERY and how to ‘fake it till you make it’ at dinner parties. Like only Dave can, he shares how to spew out some expert-sounding wineisms no one will dare to question. (p.20) All this and more. Not forgetting, of course, information on all the latest and greatest in wine.

Wrap up warm!

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OFTHE-MONTH CLUB SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WHAT’S ON | Festivals and Events Around SA

DIEMERSFONTEIN PICNIC ON T H E FA R M , 1 0 S E P T E M B E R

C O R K S & F O R K S | G R E AT F O O D & W I N E F E S T I VA L , 3-4 SEPTEMBER

This year’s festival marks the maiden voyage of the CORKS & FORKS, GREAT FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL. The team behind this new event aims to delight and entertain you with a variety of wines presented by the masters of their crafts.

Did we mention the incredible array of food?

Run, don’t walk to www.corksandforks.co.za.

Join DIEMERSFONTEIN as they celebrate the return of Spring with an open-air, family friendly concert of live music and picnics at their scenic Wellington amphitheatre. Enjoy a selection of food trucks and stalls, plus Graze Boxes that can be preordered. There’s also a dedicated children’s play area with fun activities and child minders. Kids R100pp and adults R200pp. www.diemersfontein.co.za

WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA C E L E B R AT E C H E N I N! F E S T I VA L AT P E R D E B E R G, 24 SEPTEMBER Chenin Blanc has made huge strides in quality and popularity over the last few years—with a passionate group of producers aiming for the stars.

The CELEBRATE CHENIN! FESTIVAL, presented by Perdeberg Wines, will share this passion with wine lovers, showing off styles from serious barrel fermented whites, easy-drinking fruity summer wine right up to Cap Classique bubblies and incredible dessert wines. www.perdeberg.co.za

DELHEIM WILD M U SH RO OM F OR AG E , 16 JUNE

Familiar with blushers, dyeballs and laughing gyms? These are just some of the fungus in store at DELHEIM’S WILD MUSHROOM FORAGE. Edible mushrooms themselves are often linked with health benefits and some cultures even claim they possess a supernatural aura. Whatever their magic, some of the finest examples are located at Delheim. Bring a basket, pocket knife, walking boots and a rain jacket. www.delheim.com.

W I N E W H A L E S M U S I C, 2 4-2 6 J U N E Love wine, whales and music? Have we got a treat for you! Guests can book for the weekend at DE HOOP in Hermanus on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis which includes: A Music, Wine and Cheese Tasting, and a Guest Speaker on Friday, High Tea and Whale Time Serenade on Saturday and a visit with a De Hoop guide to the Whales at Koppie Alleen on Sunday. Sign us up. www.dehoopcollection.com 4

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Festivals and Events Around SA | WHAT’S ON

K N Y S N A W I N E F E S T I VA L , 8 - 9 J U LY

For the first time since the pandemic, the Knysna Wine Festival is finally back to celebrate its 15th anniversary at this year’s KNYSNA OYSTER FESTIVAL. Some 40 wineries will converge to offer unlimited tastings of more than 200 varietals. In addition to wine, guests can enjoy craft beer, gin, various liqueurs, whisky tastings as well South African cheeses and olive oils. Tickets are 180pp and available at www.webtickets.co.za.

C U L L I N A N W I N E F E S T I VA L , 9 - 1 0 J U LY

July welcomes the 6th annual Wine Festival in the historic town of CULLINAN, situated 30 km east of Pretoria.

During this year’s event, visitors can look forward to top wine estates showcasing their best wines. There will also be craft distilleries serving gin, vodka, brandy and liqueurs. Plus, homemade, fresh produce, arts and crafts. Children and pets welcome. R120pp and 18s free. wine@echopublishers.co.za

VA A L W I N E E X P O , 3 0 J U LY

Gauteng wine lovers, here’s a day you don’t want to miss. Enjoy some R&R on the banks of the VAAL RIVER filled with wine, cruising, music and more.

The best part? You can swirl, sniff and sip great local wines while cruising down Millionaires Mile on a luxury cruiser. Meander along the river bank (watch out for the ducks) from stall to stall. Sounds dreamy, don’t you think? www.vaalwineroute.co.za

DELHEIM JAZZ & FONDUE, E V E RY S U N D AY F R O M 3 J U LY U N T I L 2 8 AU G U S T

Delheim wine estate is jazzing things up this winter with their popular JAZZ & FONDUE events that guarantee to warm the cockles of your heart with its topnotch mini-Jazz Festival and a line-up of some of the best South African talent.

Hosted in partnership with the renowned Cape Town Music Academy (CTMA).

Every Sunday from 3 July until 28 August this year. R450pp. Book via Quicket.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE & DINE | What’s New

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

13 IN ONE

The inaugural vintage of a milestone Sauvignon Blanc wine has been released by the 13 wineries of the Durbanville Wine Valley. Each of the 13 wineries supplied the grapes for the making of (the simply named) DURBANVILLE SAUVIGNON BLANC. While collaborations of this scale don’t happen often, this region has one of the best reputations for pioneering and award-winning Sauvignon Blanc. Contributors to the collaboration wine include Altydgedacht, Bloemendal, Canto, D’Aria, De Grendel, Diemersdal, Durbanville Hills, Groot Phesantekraal, Klein Roosboom, Maastricht, Meerendal, Nitida and Signal Gun. Its final production was entrusted to veteran winemaker Charles Hopkins and Morgan Steyn of De Grendel. www.durbanvillewine.co.za

Who Turned Out the Lights?

Go dark this winter with the first vintage of Paserene’s broody new Syrah.

The boutique Franschhoek winery’s first release of DARK—a full-bodied and broody 2018 Syrah forms part of the estate’s Elements range.

Showing notes of spicy treacle, cherries and antique leather, “our wines are super precious to us,” says winemaker Martin Smith. “With that comes a responsibility and a serious commitment to the wine lover. For Elements, we pare the wine down to its core while having fun with it.” Dark joins four other members of Paserene’s Elements range including Rosie, Emerald, Bright and Midnight. www.paserene.com

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

What’s New | WINE & DINE

Baby, It’s Cold Outside

Need a little winter escape that won’t break the bank? Soak up all the cosy comforts of winter at the SPIER HOTEL with up to 20% discount off on accommodation. Get comfy under a blanket and enjoy a book or board game (they’ve got plenty of both) as you sip the farm’s home-made hot chocolate, glühwein or, of course, one of their reds.

Feeling peckish? The winter-inspired menus are filled with hearty dishes made with the freshest ingredients sourced from the farm.

If you feel like venturing out, take a stroll or cycle around the estate, soak up the winter sunshine and crisp air. Sounds heavenly, don’t you think? Special runs until 31 August. To book, email reservations@spier.co.za

What a Venue!

Chef Mynhardt’s events in CATHEDRAL CELLAR are characterised by their fine balance between the bold and the understated: think bright colours, foliage, chandeliers, French linen tablecloths, cream porcelain plates and heritage-inspired cuisine. The creative Chef Mynhardt thrives on working closely with his guests to create one-of-a-kind events.

This sought-after space can be booked for groups of 50 up to 300 by visiting www.mynhardt.co.za.

WINTER WARMER

The Veritas 2021 Double Gold awardwinning D’Aria Piccolo Potstill Brandy shows layers of strawberry, cherry, orange peel and vanilla on the nose with traces of spicy hazelnut. On the silky, smooth palate is intense fruit providing a rewarding and complex finish. To purchase a bottle, go to www.dariawinery.co.za

The Road Less Travelled We sit down with ROLLO GABB from Journey’s End TELL US THE STORY BEHIND JOURNEY’S END Journey’s End was the first vineyard that my family purchased back in 1995.

At the time, it was only 20 hectares, had no running water, no house and no winery, but my father saw the beauty and potential and was taken with the incredible view. Journey’s End is one of the most southerly planted vineyards in the Stellenbosch winelands, overlooking False Bay—which means our vineyard benefits from the cooling and cleansing south easterly wind, the ‘Cape Doctor’.

Since then, sustainably and ethically producing premium, delicious wines and having fun while doing so, has been at the very heart of what we do.

HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INTO WINE? My father, Roger, started a UK wine business called Western Wines in 1980, as an importer of wines from around the world. Western Wines went on to build some very well-known international brands, including Kumala in South Africa, Da Luca from Italy, Isla Negra and Cono Sur from Chile—with it also accounting for 55% of all South Africa wine exports from 1995-2006. Aged 15, I used to be packed off to do harvest in Burgundy for Patrick Javillier, taking the train all the way to Beaune from Shropshire, UK. I then went to university in Manchester, where I spent most of my time running nightclubs, including the famous Hacienda. I realized the wine industry was for me so I started working in Oddbins—a London retailer. I then went to Wirra Wirra, McLaren Vale, Australia to work a vintage, followed by vintages in New Zealand and Italy. After that I worked for my father at Western Wines until its sale in 2006. I took over Journey’s End in 2007, and it is now a 120-hectare estate with our range of wines available internationally in over 30 markets.

WHAT IS THE MOST REWARDING PART OF YOUR JOB? Aside from making delicious wines that are broadly well received by our customers and press, looking after our community—the team, their families and the wider local

community—is extremely important. Likewise, the environment; we are solar-powered, Fairtrade certified, WWF Conservation Champions and carbon negative. We have ongoing community and sustainability initiatives that we are constantly expanding. To bring together our community projects, we launched the Journey’s End Foundation in August 2020, largely in response to the pandemic and the increasing poverty and hunger in the local community. We began a meal programme, in which we fund all the equipment, ingredients and fuel for supplies for six soup kitchens. We now provide over 30,000 meals a week to those in need.

WHAT SETS JOURNEY’S END WINES APART? We’ve always been innovative and experimental. In the vines, the Cape Doctor wind that comes in from False Bay is cleansing and cooling which leads to fresh, clean profiles coming through from our grapes.

In the cellar, our winemakers, Leon Esterhuizen and Mike Dawson, are super dynamic and as well as using classic methods, they are also very progressive. We use carbonic maceration on some of our reds, we use concrete eggs and amphorae clay pots on some of our whites, and also a combination of layering traditionally treated grapes with grapes treated using these alternate methods.

WHAT’S THE AWARD YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF? We are lucky to have won many awards recognising the quality of our wines and winemakers. But I think what I am most proud of, is being named Ethical Company of the Year by The Drinks Business Green Awards in both 2020 and 2021 for our ongoing work supporting

Journey’s End | ADVERTORIAL

our community. We were also recognized in The Drinks Business Green Awards in 2021 for our efficient use of water, winning the Water Management award too. Last year we were also the highest scoring South African red wine in Decanter with 97 Points for our Cape Doctor Red 2015—a wine that also scored 5 Stars with Platter.

WHERE DO YOU THINK SOUTH AFRICAN WINES STAND ON THE INTERNATIONAL STAGE AT THE MOMENT? There has historically been this perception that South African wines are not super-premium or premium. I think this is finally starting to change as the category grows. With the unfortunate harvest issues faced in France and New Zealand over the last few years, for example, South Africa has stepped up to provide incredibly good value alternative Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnays and Bordeaux Blends, and people are starting to appreciate the spectacular wines coming out of this country more and more. I am also a Chairman of Premium Independent Wineries of South Africa (PIWOSA), comprising of 12 member wineries. Together we are investing as unit and working closely to raise the international profile of South Africa’s premium offering.

very hard, but at the end of the day, we have fun doing so! There’s a great sense of comradery on the farm. We also have a trebuchet, a medieval catapult, that we fling various things from—cars, barrels, pianos, you name it. It’s great fun and we also use it to raise money for the Foundation and charity events hosted on the farm. I don’t know any other wine farms who have a contraption like this…

WHAT DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO EXPERIENCE WHEN DRINKING JOURNEY’S END WINES? We want people to discover the delicious, premium wines that South Africa has to offer.

We have such a broad range of varietals and styles, and I think this helps people learn a bit more about South African wines and their versatility.

For example, we’ve got a beautiful, rich, oaked Destination Chardonnay but for those who like something a little more subtle, we have an unwooded Haystack Chardonnay too. Both are delicious, but I think show that there’s something for everyone.

HOW AND WHERE IS THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY A GLASS OF THE CAPE DOCTOR? The Cape Doctor, a Bordeaux Blend, is one of our most prestigious wines, it’s very elegant but also quite intense. I personally love the Cape Doc when it’s a little colder, alongside a perfectly cooked sirloin and great company.

CAN YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST GLASS OF GOOD WINE YOU HAD? It would have been aged 15 working for Patrick Javillier and drinking one of his delicious unlabelled Meursaults during harvest in 1987.

IF YOU DIDN’T GET INTO WINE, WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE DONE? I used to run nightclubs, and I’m also a founder and Director of Harts Group restaurants in London, so I like to think I would always have ended up closely connected to drinks, wine, food, parties and all the things I love.

WHAT’S THE BEST PART ABOUT PRODUCING WINE? I always say, ‘If you’re not having fun doing what you love, what’s the point?’ And I think that ethos reflects across our team. We all work very,

WHY THE FOCUS ON CHARDONNAY? Our terroir, with the cooling breezes coming off the ocean is very well suited to Chardonnay as has been shown from the start when our first ever release Chardonnay—Journey’s End 2002 was awarded Platter’s 5 stars at a time when only 16 wines received 5 stars in Platter’s. As a family, we also love our white burgundies so we are following that vein. We love the versatility of the grape and believe coastal cooler climate vineyards in South Africa are able to produce world class examples.

ANY MISTAKE YOU’VE EVER MADE THAT, IF YOU COULD GO BACK, YOU WOULD CORRECT? Lots! Specific to the vineyard, we once planted a block of Sauvignon Blanc for commercial reasons and realized pretty quickly we should have planted something else. We did manage to correct it and replaced with Petit Verdot and Malbec for our Cape Doctor, but it was a time consuming and costly error.

WHAT’S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU RECEIVED? Be kind and be honest. Find out what you are interested in in life and go and do it properly.

ANY WINES YOU HAVE A SOFT SPOT FOR? As we head into summer it is the Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2015 for seriously delicious White Burgundy… or if South African, I like the Ken Forresters ‘Dirty Little Secret’ Chenin Blanc. On the reds, I love Alex Dale’s Freedom Pinot Noir or the Crystallum Cuvee Cinema Pinot Noir… from SA it would be probably the Au Bon Climat Pinot or a Cheval Blanc 1995 depending on how reckless one is feeling!

Email: info@journeysend.co.za Tel: 021 858 1929 Address: Farm 25B, Sir Lowry’s Pass Rd, Somerset West, Western Cape

WWW.JOURNEYSEND.CO.ZA

FEATURE | From Port to Port

A Tale of Two Icons ENOTECA

SAXENBURG and

Syrah

WHERE IT ALL STARTED “Fortune favours the bold” is the perfect way to describe Saxenburg and their significant journey with Syrah. It all started in the late 1900s when Adrian Bührer had a clear vision to become one of the best South African Shiraz producers to compete with international wineries.

Each story has a beginning, and the first milestone for Saxenburg was the rewarding discovery by Adrian Bührer in 1989. While visiting South Africa, Adrian was on a mission to find a piece of land that he could call his home. He instantly fell in love with the beautiful location with an unspoiled view of Table Mountain. Before he knew it, the Bührer family (with his wife Birgit and five children) exchanged their family home in Switzerland for a new life in South Africa.

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

After a full-scale analysis of the soil, they planted their first Shiraz vineyards. Hard work paid off, and by 1996, their Private Collection Shiraz 1993 vintage was awarded a place in the Wine Spectator Top 100 wines in the world—a first for any South African winery. Fast forward to 2020, the Saxenburg Shiraz Select 2015 was rewarded Gold at the Decanter awards. Since then, the second-generation Bührers, Fiona and Vincent, have been determined to continue their father’s legacy with their passionate team by releasing exceptional Syrah.

FROM SHIRAZ TO SYRAH Saxenburg is synonymous with Shiraz, and their jubilant journey includes many milestones for wine enthusiasts. As some might know, Shiraz and Syrah are the same varietal. Originally, Shiraz is said to come from the Northern Rhône area in France and later planted in Australia and referred to as Syrah.

Shiraz and Syrah differentiate by style, origin, and aroma.

Shiraz was associated with rich, riper, and lusher wines, and Syrah a more elegant and fruit-forward style. Today, these two styles overlap, however, wine producers might refer to one or the other

From Port to Port | FEATURE

to showcase their style.

Historically, Saxenburg is associated with Shiraz, and with seasons of change and winemaking styles evolving in the cellar, their team also adapted. Vincent and Fiona, together with winemaker Dirk van Zyl, decided to release their first vintage of Syrah instead of Shiraz back in 2017.

Dirk notes: “This reflects the efforts in the vineyard and winery to strive for greater elegance and balance while staying true to the heritage of Saxenburg.”

SAXENBURG SHIRAZ SELECT Icon wines signify years of consistent quality made from the best grapes on the farm. Saxenburg Shiraz Select is a well-known preference by many fine wine enthusiasts across the globe. Upon its first release in 1998, the wine was considered the most expensive of its kind at R350 per bottle in South Africa. After that, the Shiraz Select was also the first bottle of wine ever to sell for R500 per bottle in South Africa. Today, fine dining lovers can enjoy this wine in top-rated restaurants globally, including Michelin Star restaurants. First-class passengers enjoy their Shiraz Select while traveling with international airlines.

From the vineyard to the cellar, their tenacity and intent will always be to continue producing the Shiraz Select collection with passion and attentiveness. Saxenburg has a handson approach during the entire life cycle of this wine, which means the result is uncompromised perfection.

They are meticulous when treating and selecting the best vineyards to produce the finest wine in each vintage. Their team selects premium barrels from leading cooperage suppliers to age these wines to their best potential. Saxenburg is known to exclusively release Shiraz vintages in optimal years and only sources grapes from prime vineyards on the farm.

CREATE SAXENBURG MOMENTS First and foremost, their philosophy is

clearly understood in their approach to winemaking: to create special Saxenburg Moments. When asked what excites her most about Saxenburg wines, Fiona answered: “Our wines are enjoyed by people from all walks of life, and we have a community of Saxenburgers that share their special moments with us. Once someone has opened a bottle of Saxenburg wine, we want them to stop in their tracks to truly experience our thought-provoking wines.”

Polkadraai Rd, Kuils River, Stellenbosch Website: www.saxenburg.co.za Contact number: +27 21 903 6113

SOUTH

Email: info@saxenburg.co.za Instagram: @SaxenburgWine Facebook: @SaxenburgWineEstate AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 1 1

Montpelier Wine Estate, p22

Tulbagh

H E R E W E C OM E It’s time to explore the towering mountain ranges, delicious wines, wonderful food and friendly people in the Tulbagh Valley

Tulbagh | FEATURE

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ooking for COUNTRY LIVING and oldworld CHARM? Check.

TRANQUILLITY and MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS? Check. A sweet old town with DELICIOUS WINE? Check. Friendly people? Check. The TULBAGH VALLEY has it all.

Tulbagh is an historic town that’s overflowing with character, history and some of our favourite wine farms too. The Tulbagh Wine Route has both old, traditional wine farms and new, modern estates.

Yup, you’ll find rickety old farms full of magical tales, as well as state-of-the-art cellars—plus there are some exciting micro-producers and boutique wineries too.

EASY ON THE EYE

Art and design lovers will love a visit to SARONSBERG. The cellar is contemporary in look and feel, with a beautifully decorated tasting room. Think earthy textures combined with modern touches in a large open plan area. The tasting room also offers views into their hi-tech cellar in action. Tech ain't your thing? Guests can spend some time enjoying Saronsberg's impressive art collection.

WINE: Winemaker Dewaldt Heyns is passionate about every aspect of the winemaking process, which is particularly labour intensive at Saronsberg. The grapes are handpicked, the berries hand-sorted and the fermentation cellar is gravity-fed.

ADDED BONUS: In 2013, 16 newly renovated self-catering cottages were opened to the public. So there's no need to rush back to the city. Stay over and enjoy the farm.

VISIT: Mon - Fri 8am - 5pm, Sat 10am - 2pm, Sun 10am - 1pm. www.saronsberg.com

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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FEATURE | Tulbagh

A PACK OF BULLDOGS

It's difficult to miss LEMBERG ESTATE, as it's one of the first wine farms you'll see as you enter the valley. As with most boutique wineries, the tasting experience is intimate, and here you can taste the full range for just R50. Look out for the farm's friendly English bulldogs—Nelson, Rose, Ella and Louis—they like to sit at your feet in the Tasting Room.

WINE: Henk du Bruyn and Suzette Jansen van Rensburg offer a range of wines that are hand-crafted expressions of cultivar and terroir. Popular wines to note include their Pinot Noir, Pinotage and their showstopper, Hárslevelu—a rare Hungarian varietal that scored a 95 from Tim Atkins. Something different, eh?

ADDED BONUS: The name originates from Lemberg, Poland—now known as Lviv, Ukraine—where the husband of Janey Muller (legendary winemaker who established the farm in 1978) was born.

VISIT: Mon - Thu 8am - 5pm, Fri 8am 4pm, Sat 10am - 3:30pm, Sun 10am - 3pm. www.lemberg.co.za

SNOWY MOUNTAIN TOPS

Tucked away in the Winterhoek Valley is THEUNISKRAAL, which has a dramatic mountain backdrop. The tasting room is stocked with their delicious and unpretentious wines and homemade products made on the farm, such as tinned fruit, honey, olives, olive oils and grape jam—perfect gifts for Aunty May. WINE: Natural farming methods combine happily with the latest technology to bring out the best in each vintage. Theuniskraal produces quality and accessible wines and is most well-known for its Cape Riesling. Its first vintage was in 1948—that's a whopping 74 years of making Rieslings. They also have a delicious Semillon Chardonnay blend and fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon that shouldn’t be missed.

ADDED BONUS: The mountains surrounding the farm are situated more than 2000m above sea level and are regularly covered in snow in winter, allowing the vines to go into proper dormancy, essential for varietals such as Cape Riesling, Shiraz and Chardonnay.

VISIT: Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 2pm, Sun Closed. www.theuniskraal.co.za 1 4

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Tulbagh | FEATURE

LOVE ORGANIC?

WAVERLEY HILLS is situated close to Wolseley, at the foothills of the Witzenberg Mountain Range.

Apart from their popular organic wines, the farm also produces olives in brine, air-dried olives and olive oil. The restaurant uses only the freshest ingredients sourced from local producers and their seasonal permaculture garden. Look out for their everchanging seasonal specials.

WINE: The estate is best known for producing organic wines with a unique style. You can expect incredibly smooth wines with soft ripe tannins and robust fynbos characteristics.

ADDED BONUS: Waverley Hills is the first organic wine farm to become a WWF Conservation Champion—acknowledged as an environmental leader in the industry for its commitment to conservation, responsible production practices, integrated environmental management systems, and spearheading innovations in water, energy efficiency and climate adaptation.

VISIT: Mon - Sat 10am - 4pm, Sun 11am – 3pm. www.waverleyhills.co.za

VIEWS FOR DAYS

What’s in a name? Well, the name OUDE COMPAGNIES POST stems from the historical Dutch East India Company who started an outpost in 1699 in the beautiful (you guessed it) Tulbagh Valley.

At Oude Compagnies Post, visitors can enjoy handcrafted boutique-style wines and some seriously stunning views over the valley. Owners Jerry and Henriette Swanepoel both practised law in Cape Town before they decided to follow their dream and move to the country and raise their kids. Twenty three years later, Oude Compagnies Post is a pretty magical place—complete with one of the cosiest tasting rooms we’ve ever seen.

WINE: Jerry and Henriette’s youngest son and winemaker, Dirk had his first harvest on the family farm in 2018—and has been making waves ever since.

Enjoy a Cellar Tasting or a Mountain Top Tasting, where Dirk takes guests on a guided walk, followed by a wine tasting and picnic amongst the fynbos.

ADDED BONUS: Visitors can spend the weekend in one of the estate’s oh-so-charming farm cottages that were originally used as a milking shed in the 1800s.

VISIT: Sat 11am – 4pm, Sun 11am – 2pm. www.oudecompagnies.com SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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FEATURE | Tulbagh

AN OLDIE BUT A GOODIE

Established in 1714 by two Frenchmen from MONTPELLIER in France, this historic Cape Dutch Wine Estate recently celebrated its 300th anniversary. In addition to producing award-winning wine, Montpellier serves as a tranquil getaway and stunning event venue with a charming hillside chapel, Cape Dutch homestead, reception facilities and expansive grounds. You can also enjoy delectable tastings in the garden or the beautiful glasshouse.

WINE: Offering out-of-this-world MCC, white and red wines, Montpellier is steeped in a rich history of winemaking.

The farm is renowned for producing wines with integrity and character representative of the Tulbagh Valley terroir. Historically acclaimed for producing outstanding white wines, the range has since expanded into producing red varieties that are now creating a name for themselves in the wine industry.

ADDED BONUS: Pack the pooch! Montpellier is a dog-friendly establishment and the owners' dogs also roam the property.

VISIT: Mon – Sun 10am – 4pm. www.montpellier.co.za

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Tulbagh | FEATURE

Cape Dutch style homes on Church street in the historic town of Tulbagh.

Credit: Peter Titmuss / Shutterstock.com

FUN THINGS TO DO IN THE TULBAGH VALLEY Here are a few not-to-miss spots.

1. EXPLORE CHURCH STREET'S MUSEUM COMPLEX

Did you know that in 1969 Tulbagh suffered a massive earthquake? Learn more about it at the museum complex, which consists of De Oude Kerk Volksmuseum, the Victorian House Museum, the Christo Coetzee Art Museum, the Cape Dutch Pioneers House and the Earthquake Museum.

You'll also find a selection of SA artist Christo Coetzee's work at the Oude Kerk Volksmuseum and The Victorian House Museum. www.tulbaghmuseum.co.za 2. VISIT RESCUED ANIMALS AT FYNBOS GUEST FARM

If you have a soft spot for our furry friends, visit The Fynbos Guest Farm and Animal Sanctuary. A place of refuge for over 13 years, many animals have been rescued, including dogs, goats, pigs, emus, horses, springbucks and even zebras. Walk around the property, feed the animals, wind through the labyrinth, or visit their handmade glass meditation room. Fynbos Guest Farm is entirely selffunded, so donations are welcome. www.fynbosguestfarm.co.za

3. HAVE LUNCH AT KOLE & DEEG

If you enjoy a good coffee and banging pastry, make your way to Kole & Deeg. It offers a variety of quality artisanal baked goods and is a great place to start your day of wine touring with a caffeine fix. Then, enjoy some delicious food; it’s just opposite The Tulbagh Boutique Heritage Hotel. @Kole.Deeg on Facebook 4. DO AN OLIVE TASTING AT OAKHURST OLIVES

Oakhurst's Tasting Centre & Test Kitchen celebrates all things olive – from tutored olive tastings to masterclasses with leading chefs and gourmet weekend getaways. Here, on the farm Lemoendrif, the Du Toit family produces multi-award-winning extra virgin olive oil, Kalamata table olives and natural green olives.

They also offer tapenades, olive marmalades, lip balm, moisturiser, and more. So do pop in and try their olive goodies. www.oakhurstolives.co.za 5. HIKE UP THE OUDEKLOOF PASS

The Oudekloof Pass is one of the oldest and steepest passes in South Africa. In some places it has an incredible ratio of 1:4. There are a few different hikes on the farm and some are

seriously steep, so bring proper gear. And, if you’re not up to trekking by foot, you can reach the top of the pass by a tractor. Wonder if they serve wine at the back? www.tulbaghvalley.co.za 6. STAY OVER AT THE TULBAGH HOTEL

Dating back to the early 1800s and a bit of an institution to say the least, this intimate heritage hotel can be found in the heart of Tulbagh. The charming hotel is conveniently located in town and is the ideal base to explore the historic town, its museums, art galleries, coffee shops and vineyards. www.tulbaghhotel.co.za 7. EAT TASTY, SEASONAL MEALS AT READERS

Offering simple yet outstanding local and global cuisine, Readers has maintained a standard of excellence that has created a notable reputation with both locals and tourists since it opened in 1997. With dishes from locally-sourced products, the focus is on variety, fusion of flavours and a combination of unusual ingredients. The cuisine varies daily depending on the availability of fresh produce. www.readersrestaurant.co.za

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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ADVERTORIAL | Ernie Els

5 Ernie Els Wines THINGS

You Didn't Know About

1. ERNIE ELS HIMSELF SELECTED THE BLEND OF OUR SIGNATURE WINE In 1999, South African golfing legend Ernie Els chose the home of Ernie Els Wines—a property in the Helderberg region of Stellenbosch. At the time, our winemaker Louis Strydom, presented Ernie with various blends to try. After tasting a few, Ernie selected his favourite Bordeaux-style blend and our Signature wine was born. The first grapes were crushed, matured, blended and bottled for the inaugural vintage of the Ernie Els Signature in 2000, and since then, Louis Strydom has been crafting this wine in this same style. To this day, the iconic Signature wine remains as the pinnacle of our wine portfolio.

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

‘To this day, the iconic Signature wine remains as the pinnacle of our wine portfolio’

2. WE ONLY GROW RED GRAPE VARIETIES ON THE PROPERTY At Ernie Els Wines, we have a particular focus on red wines and therefore only grow red varietals on our property.

Cabernet Sauvignon is our passion and we’ve dedicated 60% of our vineyard to this variety. Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cinsault make up the rest of our 50 hectares under vine.

Our winemaker’s fondness for Cabernet Sauvignon, particularly, makes our location a natural choice as the “Golden Triangle” in Stellenbosch. This triangle is globally recognized for producing exceptional red wines.

Ernie Els | ADVERTORIAL

3. WE GROW NINE DIFFERENT CLONES OF CABERNET SAUVIGNON Because Cabernet Sauvignon is a true passion of ours, we currently grow nine different clones of the variety on our property. Our clones are carefully selected cuttings that we’ve evaluated for their quality as well as their resistance to viruses and diseases.

Of course, our property is well-suited to grow Cabernet Sauvignon. Our vines face north and north-east on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountains—receiving maximize exposure to the sunlight. Our granite-rich soils have a high clay content, and are made up of Tukulu and Oakleaf soil families. These soil types are optimal for the growing of Cabernet Sauvignon as they allow the grapes to receive enough water and nutrients throughout the growing season.

4. WE LOVE EXPERIMENTING WITH OUR WINES Our Winemaker, Louis Strydom has been crafting our wines for 22 years. His passion for winemaking is evident in his enthusiasm for experimenting with various techniques.

In additional to our French oak barrels, our modern cellar is home to vast concrete Nico Velo tanks, egg-shaped concrete vessels as well as clay amphorae. With these options available to him, Louis is able to experiment with various fermentation and maturation techniques in order to create the perfect blend.

His years of experience have equipped him with the skills to get the most out of our grapes. This, coupled with his passion and determination ensures that we continue to produce the premium, quality wines we are known for.

‘Pair a glass of our Cabernet Sauvignon with a juicy Camembert Beef Steak Burger’

‘On the terrace you’ll find our Grillworks which offers a unique live-fire dining experience’

CABERNET SAUVIGNON IS A PASSION OF ERNIE ELS WINERY

5. WE HAVE OUR OWN IN-HOUSE DRY-AGER AND GRILLWORKS Enjoy modern farmhouse-style cuisine? Pop into our Ernie Els Wines Restaurant with its beautiful open-plan space that extends out onto a terrace with picturesque views of Stellenbosch and the Helderberg mountains. On the terrace you’ll find our Grillworks which offers a unique live-fire dining experience.

The Grillworks Terrace also includes a specially imported dry-ager where carefully selected cuts of meat are stored and dry-aged. The duration of the dry aging process is a minimum of 35 days, ensuring an optimal dining experience.

Pair a glass of our Cabernet Sauvignon with a Dry-Aged T-Bone Steak or a juicy Camembert Beef Steak Burger.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ESTATE, VISIT WWW.ERNIEELSWINES.COM SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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A Glass of Bull

FEATURE | Wine Connoisseur

David Biggs shares how to sound like a connoisseur

I

t has been said that more nonsense (sometimes pronounced “bullsh*t”) is spoken and written about wine than about any other subject on earth (with the possible exception of sex).

Pour a glass of wine and it becomes almost impossible not to pontificate.

This is particularly the case if you happen to belong to a wine club or tasting group.

Consider any other beverage; coffee for example. You could gather rare coffee beans from the highest peak in the Guatemalan Andes and roast them over the coals of a saint’s coffin and serve a cup of the resulting brew to a friend and you’d expect no more than a “thank you.”

But have a friend slosh some wine (any wine) into your glass and if you’re considered a “wine fundi” everyone waits with bated breath for a suitable comment from you. “Thank you” or even “yum” is simply not good enough.

With wine, a wise comment is absolutely necessary.

This could present a problem for the verbally challenged drinker. No matter.

Help is at hand.

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5 FOOL-PROOF THINGS TO SAY ABOUT WINE:

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1. COMMENT ABOUT THE VINTAGE One reliable ploy is to compare the wine in your glass with another vintage of the same wine. “Ah,” you say, rolling your eyes thoughtfully upwards, “This reminds me of the 2017 vintage.” (It’s almost always safe to mention the 2017 vintage, by the way, as it is widely considered to have been a great vintage for all South African wines. If the wine you’ve been poured actually IS from the 2017 vintage, smirk smugly and say, “Yes, I thought so.”)

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2. SUGGEST A FOOD PAIRING Another conversational ploy is to suggest an unusual food pairing for the wine. After rolling the wine around your tongue you could smile and say wistfully, “You know, this would go perfectly with a wildebeest potjie. My late granny always made fantastic wildebeest potjies.” You can then deflect the conversation from wine to weird foods and get on with enjoying what’s in your glass without having to think too deeply about it.

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3. SNEAK A GLANCE AT THE LABEL A valuable tip, when it comes to wine comments, is to sneak a peep at the label. A two-second glimpse of the label is sometimes worth a three-year master’s degree in oenology when it comes to spouting convincing wine nonsense.

If the label tells you, for example, that it’s a De Krans wine from the Calitzdorp area, you can mutter that you always feel the Calitzdorp area is underrated for Shiraz (or Pinotage, or whatever is in your glass).

Make note of that “underrated” word. It’s a very useful feel-good word that tells your host he has discovered a hidden treasure that lesser folk have overlooked. It implies that your host has spent ages rummaging in obscure nooks and crannies of the winelands, searching for something unusual to titillate your well-tuned palate. A wellchosen remark flatters the host and guest equally. No matter that your host actually dashed into Tops at Spar just before closing time and grabbed the cheapest red on the shelf.

4. BUT WHAT IF IT’S BAD? Occasionally you may end up with a truly nasty wine in your glass.

Remember, though, that winemakers do not make nasty wines, so if you’re tempted to gag or spit it’s not the fault of the wine. It might be that the wine is still too young and tannic, in which case you can say it “needs time,” or there’s a problem with the cork (never the wine) in which case you can suggest it might be “corked.” These problems should, however, never occur, as a good host always tastes his wine before offering it to guests.

Wine Connoisseur | FEATURE

5. THROW AROUND THESE WORDS If you are ever stuck for a descriptive wine word, here are a few to keep handy for emergencies. Most of them are completely meaningless but sound good anyway.

• You can say the wine is “nicely balanced” or “seamless.” And it has no “rough edges.”

• You may also comment that it has a “long finish,” (particularly if you can’t get the nasty taste out of your mouth even after two cheese biscuits.)

• It’s quite flattering to say the wine has a “silky mouthfeel,” even if you’re secretly meaning it reminds you of removing your girlfriend’s underwear with your teeth.

• And if you really find a wine that’s so bland it has no flavour whatever you can describe it as “very subtle.” An increasing number of “very subtle” wines have reached the market recently, presumably because of some idea that alcohol is bad for you. (For goodness sake, if you don’t want alcohol in your wine, stick to fruit juice.)

So there you have it, five ways to sound like you know what you’re talking about when it comes to wine. If all else fails, remember that wine is there to be enjoyed. Forget the snooty stuff ! If you blurt out that the smell reminds you of a sweaty armpit or tastes like you licked a piece of bark—at least you’ll get a laugh or someone snorting wine out their nose in disdain. If it tastes good and goes down well, that’s all that matters, right?

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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For the Love of Landmarks 5 Things You Didn’t Know about Stellenbosch Reserve 1. SEVEN IS THE MAGIC NUMBER First conceived in 2005, the wine evolved from a single Bordeaux-style blend to a range that reflects the Stellenbosch viticultural landscape. The Stellenbosch Reserve now encompasses seven wines, red and white, focussing on the classic Stellenbosch varieties of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Cinsault, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The original Bordeaux-style blend is now named Vanderstel, after the man who founded South Africa’s most loved wine region. The wines, like the place, capture that beautiful balance between accessibility and seriousness.

Ou Hoofgebou Stellenbosch University

2. LANDMARKS LEAD THE WAY To highlight the sense of place, each of the wines is named after a heritage building in the town. These hometown landmarks give the wines roots, paying homage to the architecture of Stellenbosch town, the same way that the contents of the bottle pays homage to the winemaking traditions of the region. Where the landmarks represent the history of the town, so the wines represent classic varietal expressions of the Stellenbosch terroir.

The Dutch Reformed Moederkerk of Stellenbosch

Autumn inVictoria Street

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of the Stellenbosch terroir.

3. SUSTAINABILITY IS KEY At Stellenbosch Reserve, we pride ourselves on our sustainable approach. Here are a few of the things we do to bring you sustainable, environmentally friendly wines. Our capsule is light aluminium that is fully recyclable. We use Nomacork to close our wines. The cork-like closure is derived from sustainable, renewable sugarcane based raw materials. Nomacorc is made from recycled material, which is also recyclable and biodegradable. The manufacture of these closures has a zero-carbon footprint and minimises impact on the environment.

Our wine is made from grapes that are sourced from trusted producers in the Stellenbosch Area who are all IPW and WIETA certified. Wines are fined with bentonite, no animal by-products are used in the winemaking process, which makes the Stellenbosch Reserve vegan friendly. Finally, our lighter weight bottle brings environmental benefits in the form of reduced energy requirements for manufacture and transport.

The Stellenbosch Wine Bar

4. HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS Stellenbosch Reserve has a home! Nestled in the heart of wine country, on the corner of Church and Andringa streets in the village centre of Stellenbosch, is the Stellenbosch Wine Bar. Taste our wines and enjoy true winelands hospitality in an elegant village setting. Small tapas plates are available to nibble on while sipping wine under shady oaks, surrounded by the architecture and bustle of our university town.

5. WITH THANKS TO MR ENGELBRECHT Stellenbosch Reserve is the brainchild of Jean Engelbrecht. Having grown up on Stellenbosch soil, he attended Paul Roos and Stellenbosch University, before setting off to explore international wine markets. Upon returning home, he wanted to bring Stellenbosch wines onto the global wine stage. His idea behind Stellenbosch Reserve wines was to create a range that would capture the essence of his hometown, encapsulating the historic, academic, and agricultural elements of Stellenbosch in a range of wines that the world could appreciate.

To find out more, visit www.thestellenboschreserve.com

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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From

FEATURE | From Port to Port

Port to Port

P

orto is magnificent. Situated on Portugal’s Iberian peninsula and established in the 12th century, it’s one of Europe’s oldest cities.

The antiquity is palpable, crumbling granite buildings, the spires of Baroque cathedrals punctuate the sky, winecoloured slate roofs ramble up slopes.

It’s so ancient that its heart, the vibrant area known as Ribeira, has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: there narrow streets wind like tributaries around its centre, the scent of grilling sardines drifting amongst the ornate neoclassical architecture.

As if to emphasise the treasures you’ll find here, the city lights up like a jewel

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Malu Lambert drinks in Porto —and plenty of Port while she’s at it; bringing home some winter sipping inspiration box at night. I stood on the banks of the Douro River, the storied city at my back, gazing at the warehouse district of Vila Nova de Gaia, home to the famous Port lodges. Ablaze with golden lights, the two-tier Dom Luís I bridge connects the two districts, its ironwork structure reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower.

Across the dark water illuminated signs announced the familiar names—Dow’s, Graham’s, Taylor’s—my eyes hooking onto the iconic Sandeman Don, cloaked in the famous black cape of Porto’s students.

Housed in those mysterious lodges is largely the world’s supply of Port; the contents of barrels of every possible size ticking over in the underground cellars below the river line. In the subterranean maturation wings, the ground is carpeted with powdered chalk; I found this out when exploring the labyrinthine insides of Graham’s. It’s how they spot the leakage, I was told, the inky port

splashing onto the white.

Port is unlike any other wine processing system in the world in that fermentation and maturation take place at two different locations. Port wines were historically sent downriver aboard rabelo (sailing boats) from the Douro Valley to mature here. These days the boats bobbing on the river are mostly just for show and more modern modes of transportation are employed to get from A to B. The historical, and current reason for this practice is that Vila Nova de Gaia benefits from the proximity to the Atlantic, providing the moderate temperatures and humidity needed for the long maturation period of Port wines.

TO THE DOURO The next morning I was picked up by a representative of Symington Family Estates. The fifth generation wine company owns substantial holdings of

From Port to Port | FEATURE

vineyards and wineries of Port as well as Douro DOC wines, meaning they were just the people to show me the wonders of the region.

En route to Pinhão, the Douro unspools in all its mythic beauty as the highway gives way to the river.

The emerald water snakes through the rolling hills that typify the region, vines inch right up to the precipices of the schistous peaks. It’s early spring; the air is cool and crystalline, nothing like the scorching temperatures that will descend in summer; the heat then aids in locking in the deep colour and robust flavours needed for Port winemaking. A keen balancing act as extraction is halted before fermentation ends; so enough colour, tannin and flavour compounds need to be present before fortification with Portuguese grape spirit, aguardente.

Hardiness in this extreme place it seems is a default characteristic for both the grapes and the classical straw-hat wearing farmers who tend them.

At Quinta do Bomfim, home of Dow’s, we walk through the terraced vineyards, the schist and quartz soils glinting in the limpid sun. So prolific is schist here that even the trellising poles are hewn from the rock. Somehow vines push through the inhospitable geological terrain, which seems a miracle in itself.

And when you taste the wines, it is a marvel indeed. Dow’s 30-YearOld Tawny Port impressed the most.

Chiselled out of earth and dust, gravelly yet somehow light and full of air. It’s a vignette of its home, flashing grainy images of sun-baked schist, the torpid water of the river, and of oak casks in gloomy cellars deep underground, sleeping through the decades as the world goes faster above. Port soaks up time and transforms it into flavour.

ON HOME SOIL From one of Europe’s oldest ports, to South Africa’s. Back in the Cape, the Dow’s tawny opened over a long Sunday lunch, we got to chatting about the

decline in the popularity of Port-style wines here at home. The sweet fortifieds slowly and seemingly irreversibly falling out of favour with the market.

The Cape winelands have a long history (though not quite as mediaeval) of making these wines and of farming Portuguese varieties. At one point Stellenbosch-based JP Bredell Wines was the largest private port estate in the world.

Today Portuguese cultivars flourish in the Klein Karoo – its climate in many ways mimicking the hot, arid conditions of the Douro Superior. The most widely planted is Tinta Barocca, then Touriga Nacional, followed by Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and to a lesser extent Tinta Amarela and Souzão. This ratio is generally also observed in the Swartland, the area can be credited with planting Portuguese cultivars in the first place

‘Today Portuguese cultivars FLOURISH IN THE KLEIN KAROO – its climate in many ways mimicking the HOT, ARID CONDITIONS of the Douro Superior’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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FEATURE | From Port to Port

in 1939 by Allesverloren. The region, along with Stellenbosch and Paarl has a number of old vineyards, which are increasingly being used by younger generation winemakers to make more new wave expressions, concentrating on depth of fruit but with a certain lightness of being and drinkability.

While port-making remains a focus for traditional strongholds—De Krans, Boplaas, Allesverloren, Calitzdorp Cellar and Peter Bayly—many are now also diversifying and are exponentially using ‘port cultivars’ to make still, dry wines, expanding their portfolios, and with it hopefully their profits. The Cape’s Mediterranean climate is already well suited to Portugal’s indigenous grapes, and with climate change already turning up the temperature dial; these hardy grapes can take the heat.

According to the recent Sixth Assessment Report from IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) the mercury could rise to

1.5°C as soon as 2030, an alarming prediction that should see growers doing everything in their power to future-proof their vineyards, starting immediately. Bordeaux is already following suit; Touriga Nacional was recently named as one of the seven new permitted Bordeaux AOC grapes, in a bid to offset rising temperatures. And if the Bordelaise are doing it, we should probably pay attention.

Though the Dow’s tawny may have been the highlight wine of my trip, dry Portuguese wines also made an impression throughout my stay. Not only do they offer climatic adaptability as stated above, but also a dazzling array of new textures and flavours from the abundance of over 250 indigenous grape varieties. I’d like to see more planted

in South Africa; the Chablis-esque nature of Arinto; the fragrant and fruity Albariño; to the intense and elegant Touriga Nacional, and all of its robust contemporaries.

Portuguese explorers have a long history with the Cape, perhaps it’s time we swing that around. This winter seems like a good time to explore Portugal, even if it’s in the glass.

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH’S PORTS TO TRY: • • • • 2 6

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Swartland Cape Ruby Port, R75 Boplaas Cape Vintage Port, R130 Simonsig Cape Vintage Port, R199 Muratie Ben Prins Cape Vintage Port 2018, R249

Wine in a Can | WINE

CANNED WINE BRANDS WE’RE LOVING

This Be? Having a can-do approach to wine

BY DAVID BIGGS

F

or many wine enthusiasts a great part of the enjoyment lies in the traditions and mystique that surrounds their favourite beverage. The rituals start long before the bottle is even opened.

The wine must be stored in a cool, dark place, free from vibration and shielded from dangerous bright light. It must be stored on its side, so the cork remains wet and does not shrink and leak. Vintages are studied and there is great discussion about when would be the best time to uncork the sacred bottle.

It’s all too easy for a wine lover to become a wine bore. Wine has a long history and is regarded with some reverence even in the Bible. We live in a rapidly changing world, however, and few of us now have the time—or the desire—to spend our energy fussing and pontificating about what we drink. Looked at dispassionately, many of the wine traditions simply don’t fit into today’s lifestyle.

There are of course times when we want to make a special occasion of opening and sharing a special bottle of wine: a birthday, maybe, or the birth of a baby. More often we drink our wine casually at home or in a pub or club, without any ceremony. The traditional glass bottle was obviously not designed for this relaxed and informal quaffing.

Increasingly wine lovers are discovering the benefits of a concept that would have horrified our forefathers—wine in a can. Before throwing your hands up in horror, consider some of these facts.

‘A 200ml can holds just enough for a GENEROUS GLASSFULL, so companions can each drink what they really like’

• • • •

Black Elephant Vintners & Co: Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé & Pinot Noir.

Robertson Winery: Merlot & Sauvignon Blanc.

Bruce Jack: Pinotage Cinsault & Sauvignon Blanc.

Ben Wren: Red Blend, Bubbly Rosé, Delicious Rosé, Chenin Blanc & Sauvignon Blanc.

FACTS ABOUT CANNED WINE • A traditional wine bottle contains 750ml of wine, which is more than a glass-full.

This means the wine is usually shared with a companion, so each of the participants must drink the same wine. We all have our favourites and these may differ widely, so sharing a bottle often means one person has to drink a wine that is not what he or she would normally have chosen. A 200ml can holds just enough for a generous glassfull, so companions can each drink what they really like.

• Temperatures are more easily adjusted in a can than in a bottle, a few seconds on ice or in tepid water alter the temperature in a jiffy. It takes much longer to chill a bottle.

• A 200ml can fits easily into a briefcase or shopping bag, so there’s no problem about availability. It goes where you go. Simple.

Of course there will always be the traditionalists who insist they don’t like the taste of “ tinned” wine. Put them to the test. In recent times there have been several comparative tastings where experienced wine judges have held blind tastings of the same brand and cultivar of wine from a bottle and a can and nobody has been able to notice any marked differences between the two.

It’s also been noted that cans are kinder to the environment than bottles. If anything leaves a smaller footprint on this embattled planet of ours it’s certainly worth considering.

It should be borne in mind, however, that

• • • • • •

Chateau Del Rei: Semi-Sweet, Dry, Rosé & Sweet Red. Spier: Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé & Merlot.

Uncanny Wines: Chenin Blanc & Merlot.

Perdeberg: SSR Red, SSR White & SSR Rosé.

McGregor: The Delicious Monster White.

CanCan: Grenache, Rosé, Chenin Blanc and Bubbly.

the two packaging systems are designed for different kinds of consumers. This is similar in many industries that cater for varied classes of consumer. The manufacturers of Rolls Royce cars pose no threat to the makers of Volkswagens. They share the road amicably.

Canned wines are not meant for long storing. They should be consumed within about 18 months of purchase. A traditional glass bottle, on the other hand, will allow the wine to age gently for several years if it is stored correctly and there’s no denying there’s something very special about a great wine that’s been properly aged.

To put this in perspective, think of all the wines you have bought in recent months and count those you have kept for more than a year before opening.

Five? Two? None?

I’m willing to stick my neck out and predict that, sooner or later, there’s a canned wine in your future. There’s only one way to make up your mind: buy a couple of cans to try. It won’t cost you a fortune and there’s a huge range of local and foreign examples from which to choose — red, white, rosés and even bubbly.

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PHOTOGRAPH CREDIT: OBIE OBERHOLZER

ADVERTORIAL | Tokara

FIVE REASONS TO VISIT

S

Tokara Wine & Olive Estate

tellenbosch is known as a wine, food, art and cultural destination and at Tokara Wine and Olive Estate visitors are welcomed with exquisite wines, unforgettable restaurants, contemporary South African art and a unique olive oil experience – all in one beautiful setting.

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1. STELLENBOSCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON Tokara produces incredible red wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the cornerstone varieties of the estate and an important focus since the first harvest in 2000. Tokara’s interpretation of Cabernet Sauvignon is epitomised by two singular expressions, a flagship blend and a pinnacle cuvée. Together these wines represent a true reflection of everything the estate stands for: refinement, elegance and balance.

“The 2019 red wines are classically styled and expressive of the season.

Aromas are perfectly poised and showcase both red and dark fruit with alluring spice complementing careful wood influence from barrel ageing. Tannin profiles are perfectly ripe with mouthfeel that is generous and pleasantly focused,” is winemaker Stuart Botha’s take on the latest red vintages.

Tokara’s Viticulturist Aidan Morton & Winemaker Stuart Botha

2. WINES THAT WILL TRANSPORT YOU The estate focuses on Bordeaux varieties in its Director’s Reserve range, making both a wooded white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon as well as a classic Bordeaux-style red blend.

Tokara’s Reserve Collection showcases the unique attributes of terroir specific, single vineyard wines in limited volumes, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Together these wines contribute to South Africa’s formidable reputation

for these sought-after premium wines.

Tokara’s vision of producing world-class wines necessitates an exact focus with no room for compromise and the dedicated team always strives towards this goal.

Starting 2022 with a new mantra: ‘We make wine that moves mountains’ perfectly depicts this narrative. Wines enjoyed in any other location should transport you back to Tokara, to the place that first filled your glass with delicious expectation.

3. FRESH SOUTH AFRICAN OLIVE OIL Tokara’s olive oil journey began in 2000 when co-founder Anne-Marie Ferreira decided to produce single variety oils.

Tokara focuses primarily on Tuscan varieties, each selected for its distinctive character and flavour profile. Don’t miss out on the informative tutored olive oil tasting of the Tokara blended and single varietal Extra Virgin Olive Oils on your next visit to the Tokara Wine Tasting Lounge.

A VISIT TO THIS SPECIAL PLACE, AT THE TOP OF THE HELSHOOGTE PASS IN STELLENBOSCH WILL OFFER A MEMORABLE, UNMISTAKABLY TOKARA EXPERIENCE.

Tokara | ADVERTORIAL

4. TOKARA RESTAURANT AND DELICATESSEN Book a table at Tokara Restaurant and experience a delicious treasure trove of contemporary South African cuisine inspired by the local countryside and farm produce. Expertly prepared by Chef Carolize Coetzee and paired with awardwinning wines and dramatic views over Stellenbosch and False Bay, it’s a feast for all the senses.

If you prefer something a little more informal, pop over to the Tokara Delicatessen, the estate’s gourmet food shop. It’s child-friendly and offers a seasonal menu, olive oil products and other goodies to take home. Here you can indulge in mouth-watering and hearty bistro fare, delectable pizzas and arguably the finest coffee in the Banghoek Valley.

5. ART AT TOKARA While you are at Tokara take a stroll through the art gallery and sculpture garden or experience this magnificent estate through the eyes of acclaimed photographer, Obie Oberholzer, who created the Tokara Book as a gift for the Ferreira family. This wine book was photographed over two years and required several visits to incorporate the colouring of the seasons, the harvesting of the grapes and olives and the various moods of this farm’s unique gardens.

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.TOKARA.COM SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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FEATURE | Rum

Behold the rise of

AFRICAN RUM Rum is shaking off its sailor and pirate image thanks to the innovation of modern African producers who’ve improved its quality, writes Clifford Roberts.

"T

ell me what you think,” says the quiet man across the room. I’m blind with panic. Seconds ago, Mark Middelton—one of South Africa’s most experienced rum-makers—placed two glasses in front of me. Each contains a dash of amber liquid and now he’s waiting for my answer.

One of these glasses is going to be the hero. I tentatively sniff each one, mind racing. My comments are deliberately vague; deliberately hopeful of being misconstrued for being accurate, but I’m off. And bust.

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Rum | FEATURE

Rum, the drink of Everyman, was in its earliest, roughest form embraced by sailors and pirates, and tied to hidden treasure and scallywags. Its early names were kill-devill and eventually rumbullion, which eventually became simply rum.

Whence did this name come to be? There’s no conclusive answer, but Hugh Barty-King and Anton Massel in Rum, Yesterday and Today make this suggestion: “The sugarcane spirit’s most distinctive characteristic was its ability to light a blaze in the head of anyone who drank too much of it. It knocked them off balance, provoked unruly, rumbustious behaviour, rummaging about the glasses and plates on the table, rampaging through the guests, rumpling their hair; and when the toasting and boasting gathered momentum, creating an unholy rumpus and merry mayhem.” Hmm, enough rum in there, huh?

Back to Mark. He gently offers his own insights on the deeper, more complex and integrated of the two glasses of rum. The lighter coloured one is “a pure rum, straight out of the barrel” says Mark. Nothing was added to it. “Many cheaper rums are darkened with colouring to make people think it’s good, but it’s all…[he pauses]… fabricated.

“Of course it doesn’t matter when you want rum to go with cola,” says Mark, who

heads up the making of South Africa’s first true Jamaican-style rum at Oude Molen in Elgin. LEATHERBACK is the name of the new brand. It is made in a 10 000 litre copper pot still, in a configuration typical to the Caribbean but unique in South Africa.

Leatherback was the very reason for Mark’s appointment. Milestones to his career include a BSc in the US, managing distilleries in his birthplace of Swaziland and KwaZulu-Natal, and running the Hampden Rum distillery in Jamaica.

Mark needed cane juice and Grant Galloway, MD of Zululand Distilling Company, maker of TAPANGA, obliged.

A few years ago, it was a random road-trip that took me to the distillery in the district of Gingindlovu. This is the heart of sugar cane country, awash with saturated greens of cane fields and sub-tropical bushlands, and an azure sky. Just four kilometres away lies the ocean, almost as warm as the air.

It was the first time I’d seen a distillery

and plantation of sugarcane side-byside; Tapanga is an African name for the machetes used to cut the cane. Big distilleries are generally far removed from their raw material. Here, the distillery is a component of a diversified agri-business that includes sugar cane plantations as well as essential oils, timber and macadamias.

Rum Africole, labelled “South Africa’s first single estate rum” is one of their brands.

The name is a play on the geographically protected term of Rhum Agricole, the French term for cane juice rum.

Cane juice isn’t the be-all and end-all of rum making, but it is an important component of finer rums. Rum is made the world over almost exclusively from

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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FEATURE | Rum

molasses, a by-product of sugar-making.

To set aside sugar cane for juicing therefore makes a better product and commands a higher price.

This is most notable at TAKAMAKA, a 20-year-old rum distillery on the island of Mahé in the Seychelles. In the other Indian Ocean Islands, like Reunion, Mauritius and Madagascar, rum history doesn’t feature much. Few of the 115 islands of the Seychelles are habitable and the total landmass is just 458km².

“The little agricultural land there is, is reserved for food, not sugarcane,” says visitor guide and distillery co-owner Retha D’Offay, as she takes me around.

The distillery imports molasses, but also buys cane from some 40 subsistence farmers dotted about the island.

Takamaka is available in South Africa, but along with other imports competes with a growing number of local brands.

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Among the oldest of these is MHOBA RUM in Malelane, which produces 10 different types of pure single estate sugarcane rum or pure single sugarcane rum from organic sugarcane. The first spirit that would become Mhoba was made by founder Robert Greaves in 2013.

WHISTLER RUM is another, created in 2016 by, amongst others, brothers Trevor and Leon Bruns on a farm in the Northern Free State.

A more recent addition to this group is the distillery of Brad and Marisa O’Neill who launched SUGAR BARON PLANTATION ORIGIN RUM in 2018. Their distillery on the Seafield sugarcane farm is situated in the KwaZulu-Natal midlands and produces spirit in the Agricole tradition, and using a 200-litre still.

“There is a massive need for a shift in perception to the amazing rums on offer,” says Grant Galloway of Tapanga. “This will only come with exposure to more rum brands; each doing their own little bit to educate and convince people of the brilliance rum is capable of.”

What excites Grant about the rum category in general?

“The awareness of fine local rum is in its infancy,” he says. “There’s a great opportunity for people to learn about the amazing versatility of what is a very exciting category. There is a rum out there for everyone and for every occasion.”

The devil drink is no more. Long live fine rum!

FROM THE MISTS OF TIME TO SOUTH AFRICA The history of commercial rum in South Africa is a vague and contested account.

Rum, Yesterday and Today refers to one Thomas Reynolds of Oaklands Sugar Estate near Shakaskraal who in 1861 advertised his “Two-Year-Old Rum Equal to the Finest Jamaica '' in the Natal Mercury.

Industrial-scale distillery AlcoNCP, whose own history dates to 1868, claims to be the location of the first rum distillery in South Africa. It was built on the site by Monsieur Phillippe, a Mauritian engineer involved in the budding Natal sugar industry.

Cane was first cultivated in Mauritius in 1650 by the Dutch who brought it from Java but it only really took hold under the French in 1735.

Nonetheless, AlcoNCP notes that in its early days molasses was sourced from the farm Bishopstoke nearby. Rum produced at the distillery was first entered into an international competition at an exhibition in London in 1873. How it fared was not recorded.

SA legislators also played a big part in the story, reserving the classification of a spirit as rum for imports. From 1913, local varieties had to be labelled as “cane”, with MAINSTAY pioneering the spirit and rum’s marketing in the 1950s.

WHY IS IT NO LONGER FASHIONABLE TO DECANT WINES BEFORE SERVING THEM? I HAVE A BEAUTIFUL CUT-GLASS DECANTER, BUT NEVER HAVE OCCASION TO USE IT. Before cold stabilisation was introduced, wine often produced a sediment of tartrate crystals, which caused a cloudy appearance. The wine was carefully decanted to remove the sediment before serving it. Modern wines are stabilised by being chilled to about 4°C . Before bottling, the crystals are removed, making decanting unnecessary. We suggest you use that decanter as a vase.

YOUR WINE FAQS

YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED BY DAVID BIGGS

A WINEMAKER FRIEND MENTIONED THAT HE HAD BOTTLED A MEHTUSELAH AND A NEBUCHADNEZZAR. WHAT DID HE MEAN? Those are the names of two very large bottle sizes. A Methuselah contains the equivalent of eight normal sized wine bottles and a Nebuchadnezzar holds the equivalent of 20 normal sizes bottles.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A HORIZONTAL TASTING AND A VERTICAL TASTING? In a horizontal tasting the tasters compare wines of the same vintage, but from different producers. In a vertical tasting they compare wines of the same cultivar or producer, but from different vintages.

WE ARE OFTEN TOLD THAT RED WINE SHOULD BE SERVED AT “ROOM TEMPERATURE” AND WHITE WINE SHOULD BE CHILLED. CAN YOU BE MORE PRECISE? You’re welcome to serve your wine at whatever temperature you like. If it’s a hot summer day in the Karoo you may like to chill your Shiraz before serving it with your leg of lamb. If you like precise numbers, however, it’s safe to serve white wines at between 8-10 °C and red wines at about 15 °C. But don’t stress about it. Just enjoy it.

ADVERTORIAL | Waterford

REASONS TO VISIT

Waterford Estate Experience all this picturesque estate has to offer

W

elcome to our world, a world where the passing of time and the change in seasons only add rich layers of character and charm to the scene.

The history of Waterford Estate can be traced back to April 1998, when the Ord family purchased the 120Ha piece of land to start their wine farm.

At Waterford Estate, we wish to explore all the senses—sight, smell, sound, touch and taste, in order for our guests to experience both what is inside and outside the bottle. We call this the Waterford Way. 3 4

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1. THE ESTATE ITSELF Waterford Estate is situated in the picturesque Blaauwklippen Valley, with vineyards planted on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, in the world-renowned Stellenbosch region. We believe in the old adage of ‘less is more’. There is nothing pretentious or ostentatious about the estate, rather the visual impact is one of a seamless whole, which complements the surrounding natural beauty of the farm. The Waterford Estate winery offers a relaxing setting where guests can sit and enjoy various tasting options. With the wine cellar built surrounding the courtyard, guests can observe the workings of the winery, and get a true feel for the winemaking process without disrupting the tranquility of their tasting experience.

Visit: Monday to Sunday 10am to 5pm Phone: +27(0) 21 880 5300 Email: info@waterfordestate.co.za Address: Blaauwklippen Rd, Stellenbosch 2. OUR NEW RELEASE: WATERFORD ANTIGO 2019 The Waterford Antigo takes its name from the colour of the soils in which this specific Cabernet Vineyard is planted, that makes up majority of the blend. Waterford Estate is located on the Helderberg Mountain, renowned for producing the best red wines in South Africa, especially Cabernet Sauvignon.

The rich red clay soils bring soft, plush fruit to the wine’s aromatics. They also create tannins which are richer, softer and sweeter to what we are used to on Waterford Estate.

The original plan was to release it as a single varietal wine, but its uniqueness necessitated the creation of the blend. This Cape Bordeaux Blend is driven by 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, with the blending components adding complexity and depth. Majority of the grapes blended in Antigo, come from the vineyards on the Estate, with a small percentage being sourced from other farms in the Helderberg

region. The grapes are hand-harvested and whole bunch fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 20 months in a small percentage of new French Oak and mostly older oak, in order to preserve the soft texture and fruitiness of the wine. No fining is practiced on this wine and it therefore makes it vegan friendly.

3. OUR WINEMAKER MARK LE ROUX Our COO and Winemaker, Mark le Roux, has been the soul of the expressive wines Waterford has to offer. He joined Waterford Estate in 2009 and has been responsible for the winemaking since 2013. Tim Atkin named him South Africa’s Young Winemaker of the Year. With an assortment of accolades, outstanding scores

by Tim Atkin for our wines, including our flagship, Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as an array of 5 Star Platter awards, to name a few. No two days ever look the same in the cellar, Mark jokingly adds that “the only consistency in my day when I’m in the cellar, is my early morning coffee. All days lead from the previous day, as nature runs at its own pace.” Mark is committed to making the premium, high quality wines that are unpretentious and authentic. He strongly believes that winemaking should merely be a catalyst and not interfere or alter the wine of origin. “The art comes in with blending, using these individually crafted wines to find balance and expression without losing the identity of the individuals.”

4. THE TASTING ROOM Our Tasting Room is nestled in the center of the winery with a variety of tasting options and a seasonal curated lunch offering. In addition to our cellar door experiences, we also offer two exclusive experiences in our vineyard, namely our Wine Drive Safari and our Porcupine Trail Wine Walk.

OUR UNFORGETTABLE ESTATE EXPERIENCES ARE DESIGNED TO EVOKE A UNIQUE SENSE OF PLACE AND STIMULATE ALL FIVE OF YOUR SENSES. FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.WATERFORDESTATE.CO.ZA

FEATURE | Boozy Books

1. Mocktail Party: 75 Plant-Based, Non-Alcoholic Mocktail Recipes For Every Occasion Mocktail Party is a great way to still enjoy or make alcohol-free cocktails for your teetotaling guests. Featuring over 75 non-alcoholic mocktail recipes that are low in sugar and that have been developed by registered dieticians.

And, all the recipes are made with sustainability in mind—so they’re good for the planet too. R412 from Exclusive Books.

BOOZY

Books

TO READ IN WINTER Want to discover as much as possible when it comes to wine, beer and cocktails? Here are 7 books to add to your reading list

2

The Mini Bar: 100 Essential Cocktail Recipes Organised by key ingredients, this set of eight mini-notebooks includes all the classic (and some modern) recipes for essential spirits, liqueurs and wines. The gang’s all here with the likes of whiskey, rum, gin, vodka, tequila, Champagne and sherry covered in this nifty box set. Oh, and each notebook includes a blank space to write down your own tried-andtested recipes. Neat, huh?

R358 from Exclusive Books.

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Easy Cocktails: Over 100 Drinks, All Made with Four Ingredients or Less, R358 from Exclusive Books

3. Easy Cocktails Prefer the simple things in life?

Then ditch the fluffy stuff and make simple, quick cocktails at home with Easy Cocktails. With this handy guide by your side, you’ll be able to whip up a wide variety of cocktails—all of which are made with four ingredients or less. Just because a drink has minimal ingredients doesn’t mean it can’t be great, right?

R358 from Exclusive Books.

Boozy Books | FEATURE

Love by the Glass 4. Adventures on the Wine Route COVID travel bans getting you down?

Explore France’s top wine cellars with wine expert Kermit Lynch from the comfort (and safety) of your couch. From Provence to the Rhône valleys, this book talks about all things wine in Lynch’s easily digestible fashion. First published in 1988, this much-loved book won the prestigious Veuve Clicquot Book of the Year award—and twenty years on Lynch’s tales of wines and the French countryside remain timeless. R341 from Exclusive Books.

Here’s one for the romantics at heart. Wife-and-husband duo Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher (best known for their weekly wine column in The Wall Street Journal) have created a memoir that combines both their love story and their love of wine. As one reader put it, “Their column is really about life, and wine is just a vehicle for them to write about other things.”

Available on Amazon.

7. The Mixers Manual: The Cocktail Bible for Serious Drinkers Now for slightly more complex cocktail recipes, The Mixers Manual teaches you how to mix, shake and swirl like a pro. Featuring 150 of the world’s finest cocktails, all of which can be made from the comfort of your home bar or kitchen. Author Dan Jones also shares recipes for classic tipples such as the Margarita and Martini.

Available on Amazon.

Wine Simple: A Totally Approachable Guide from a World-Class Sommelier By one of the most respected sommeliers in the world, Aldo Sohm’s first book, Wine Simple is a must-read. Even though he’s one of the international big wigs, his approach to wine is fun and casual––all evident in this his debut book. Full of easy-to-follow infographics and illustrations coupled with a huge depth of knowledge, Wine Simple’s message is that wine doesn’t have to be complicated or intimidating to be understood and enjoyed. Hear, hear!

R573 from Exclusive Books.

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FEATURE | The Art of Wine

A Tale As

OLD AS TIME Inside the rich history of the Muratie Wine Estate

T

ucked into the Knorhoek Valley, you’ll find the beautiful Muratie Wine Estate. The farm dates back to 1685 when it was granted by Simon van der Stel who was Governor of the Cape of Good Hope—making it one of the oldest estates in South Africa. As you can imagine, with such a long and rich history at its heart, the estate is over-flowing with fascinating stories, unbelievable tales and characters.

Now, run by Rijk Melck and his wineloving family, together they have worked hard to revive the farm’s rich heritage.

Following the classical evolution of the brand over time, the team chose to name many of their wines after these colourful characters. Amongst the award-winning Muratie Range, you’ll discover the likes of Martin Melck Cabernet Sauvignon,

A

named after Martin Melck, who owned Muratie from 1763 to 1781. A mercenary from Prussia who’s greatest love was for his daughter, Anna Catherina, for whom he bought Muratie. Then, there’s the Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux Blend that’s named after Ansela van de Caab.

Born into slavery at the Cape’s Castle, Ansela fell in love with a dashing German soldier called Laurens Campher. After years of secrecy, and once the laws allowed, Laurens eventually moved Ansela and their three children to live at Muratie. To find out more about the wonderful people and stories behind these wines, best you visit the Muratie estate. Whether it’s a wine tasting at the Tasting Room or a leisurely lunch at the Farm Kitchen—Muratie’s rich history is captured in every nook and cranny. Wherever you find yourself on the estate, you can’t help but be moved by the many generations that have lived and worked here.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

VISIT WWW.MURATIE.CO.ZA TO FIND OUT MORE | CONTACT 021 865-2330/6 | EMAIL INFO@MURATIE.CO.ZA

Soups That Stir The Soul | RECIPES

Orange Sweet Potato & Pear Soup with Pork Chipolatas, p.39

SOUPS

th a

tir ts the SOUL Enjoy this soup with a silky red like the Cirrus Pinot Noir 2020, S O U at T HR300 AFRICAN selling

CONNOISSEUR

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RECIPES | Soups That Stir The Soul

Enjoy this soup alongside a fresh, light white such as the Waverley Hills Pinot Grigio A F R Iselling C A N Cat O R115 NNOISSEUR 4 0 S O U T H2020,

Borscht, p.39

Soups That Stir The Soul | RECIPES

C

hef Mynhardt Joubert has been cooking from his Station Street Kitchen in Paarl in the Western Cape for the past five years, hosting dinners for paying guests, hosting media launches and using his home as a creative space and photographic studio. The book, My Station Street Kitchen, is a reflection of his kitchen and the dinners that he hosts there.

Mynhardt infuses everything he does with his enthusiasm, exuberance and love of food that incorporates his life experiences, from his childhood on a farm in the Eastern Free State to his travels around the world and throughout South Africa.

BORSCHT Serves: 6–8 "This soup, with its exciting colour, transports me to the faraway, snowy Balkan lands drenched in mystery and fairy tales. Borscht is actually a Ukrainian soup that emerged somewhere in the 1500s. Our version is a more Polish adaptation, which is blended and served cold."

INGREDIENTS: Olive oil, for frying 2 onions, peeled and chopped 3 leeks, washed and chopped 3 carrots, peeled and chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 200g streaky bacon, diced 1kg beetroot, peeled and cubed 2 litres prepared chicken stock 250ml sour cream or crème fraîche salt and pepper to taste red cabbage, thinly sliced pink radishes, to serve DIRECTIONS: 1. Heat some olive oil in a large pot and fry the onions, leeks, carrots, garlic, bacon and beetroot over a medium heat until well browned.

2. Add the stock and cook until all the vegetables are tender (about 30 min).

3. Add the sour cream or crème fraîche and season to taste.

4. Blend until smooth and leave to cool. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.

5. Serve the soup with the red cabbage and radishes.

Garnish as desired.

Notes and tips To make Green Borscht, replace the beetroot with 1kg of Swiss chard. You could even add some sorrel leaves when they are in season.

Borscht is best served with toasted rye bread or any other dark-flour bread with a strong treacle flavour.

ORANGE SWEET POTATO & PEAR SOUP WITH PORK CHIPOLATAS Serves: 4–6 "I can easily find comfort in a hot bowl of soup made with love and a starchy vegetable (and some meatiness)."

INGREDIENTS: 1.5kg orange sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed 6 large Forelle or Packham pears, peeled, cored and quartered Olive oil, for tossing Salt and pepper, to taste Butter 3 onions, peeled and chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 5cm-piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 1 litre prepared chicken stock fresh cream, to taste 500g pork chipolatas Sage leaves, to garnish (optional) DIRECTIONS: 1. Preheat the oven.

2. Toss the cubed sweet potatoes and pear quarters in some olive oil, season to taste and roast in the oven until cooked and caramelised.

3. Heat some butter and olive oil in a large pot and fry the onions, garlic and ginger over a medium heat until lightly browned.

4. Add the roasted sweet potatoes and pears, stock and season to taste.

5. Cook for 10–15 min or until the soup has reduced by half.

6. Blend with a stick blender and stir in some cream.

7. Check for seasoning.

8. Pan-fry the chipolatas until golden brown.

9. Serve the soup with the chipolatas on top and sage leaves, if using.

Notes and tips Add some fresh sage to the soup when cooking—it goes really well with the sweet potato and pan-fried pork chipolata flavour.

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RECIPES | Soups That Stir The Soul

CHILLED ASPARAGUS CREAM SOUP Serves: 6–8 "Asparagus is one of the oldest vegetables on earth. Dating back to 3000 BC it was depicted on an Egyptian frieze as an offering. It was also mentioned in one of the oldest documented recipe books in the world – from 1st century Rome. As the years went on, more and more people started to cultivate asparagus and it became sought after in most countries.

Our recipe for a chilled asparagus soup is perfect for summer when asparagus is in season."

INGREDIENTS: Olive oil, for frying 3 onions, peeled and chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1kg fresh green asparagus, blanched 250ml white wine 1 litre prepared chicken stock 250g crème fraîche 200g baby spinach leaves, washed Salt and pepper, to taste Extra-virgin olive oil, for tossing DIRECTIONS: 1. Heat some olive oil in a large pot.

2. Add the onions and garlic and fry over a medium heat until lightly browned.

3. Meanwhile, cut the tips off the asparagus and set aside. Roughly chop the stems.

4. Add the wine to the onions and garlic and cook until evaporated.

5. Add the asparagus stems and stock and cook until the stems are just cooked.

6. Stir in the crème fraîche and spinach and season to taste. Blend with a stick or jug blender until smooth.

7. Leave to cool, then refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.

8. Toss the asparagus tips in some olive oil and season to taste.

9. Serve the chilled soup with the asparagus tips on top. Garnish as desired.

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Notes and tips If asparagus is not in season, use blanched tenderstem broccoli.

For a vegan alternative, substitute the crème fraîche with coconut cream and use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock.

Enjoy this soup alongside a fruity white such as the Thelema Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc 2020, selling at R109

Soups That Stir The Soul | RECIPES

Chilled Asparagus Cream Soup, p.42

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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RECIPES | Soups That Stir The Soul

GAZPACHO WITH GRILLED TOMATOES, NECTARINES & CUCUMBER Serves: 4–6 "During the 18th century, gazpacho became a staple in Spain, then made with bread, water, olive oil and garlic. Only in the 19th century were tomatoes added, for a vibrant red colour. After making gazpacho for a very long time, we started to grill the tomatoes and nectarines before blending them. This gives the soup a wonderful depth of flavour."

INGREDIENTS: 2kg tomatoes, (not too ripe), halved 1kg yellow or white- esh nectarines, halved red onions, peeled and quartered Olive oil, for grilling 10ml coriander seeds, toasted and crushed 10ml cumin seeds, toasted and crushed 00ml pure 100 tomato juice 1 lime, grated zest and juice 0ml aged vinegar or red wine vinegar 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced cloves garlic, peeled and minced 5ml smoked paprika a few slices day-old bread (baguette or ciabatta) salt, pepper and sugar, to taste a few glugs e tra-virgin olive oil e tra nectarine slices and e otic tomato halves, to serve

Notes and tips If you don’t have a braai or the time to grill the tomatoes and nectarines, marinate them in the spices, tomato juice, lime zest and juice, vinegar, chilli and garlic overnight. Blend with the rest of the ingredients just before serving.

For a fresher approach to the gazpacho, add some freshly chopped basil and mint.

Nectarines can also be frozen and then added to the blender to make the soup instantly cold and ready to serve.

DIRECTIONS: 1. Prepare the braai.

2. Toss the tomatoes, nectarines and red onions in olive oil along with the crushed coriander and cumin seeds.

3. Grill on all sides until well charred and caramelised.

4. Place the tomatoes, nectarines, onions, tomato juice, lime zest and juice, vinegar, chilli, garlic and paprika into a jug blender. Blend until smooth.

5. Add the bread, season to taste and blend until smooth with a few glugs olive oil.

6. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

7. Serve the gazpacho with nectarine slices and exotic tomato halves.

8. Garnish as desired.

Recipes from Mynhardt Joubert's new book, My Station Street Kitchen vailable at all good bookshops, R2 0

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Soups That Stir The Soul | RECIPES

Pair this soup alongside an elegant white such as the Neil Ellis Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc 2021, selling at R119

Gazpacho with Grilled Tomatoes, Nectarines & Cucumber, p.40

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Meet the

MARKLEW FAMILY

A closer look inside the family wine estate

Sitting pretty in the heart of STELLENBOSCH, you’ll find MARKLEW FAMILY WINES. A FAMILY-OWNED AND OPERATED ESTATE that creates wines in limited, HIGH QUALITY BATCHES in their BOUTIQUE gravitational cellar.

The Marklew Family LR: Bill, Haidee, Lyn & Dudley

THE MARKLEW FAMILY WINES INCLUDE:

Marklew Range: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, MCC, Merlot, Pinotage, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Reserve Bordeaux Blend.

Cape Georgian Range: Merlot and Reserve

Winemaker Dirk Tredoux

In 1970, Lyn and Dudley Marklew bought the scenic 57-hectare farm De Goede Sukses in the Simonsberg Ward. Dudley replanted the vineyards including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinotage, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and sold the grapes.

In 2001, Lyn and Dudley retired to Hermanus and their children took over the farm. Bill oversees viticulture and finance, while their daughter Haidee fulfills her childhood dream of making and marketing wine on the farm.

Winemaker Dirk Tredoux, who has a long history producing awardwinning wines, says that, “My attention to detail will ensure that the Marklew Family Wines retain their consistency and reach new heights.”

To this day, Marklew Family Wines produces award-winning wines that embody traditional viticulture values and winemaking passion from both generations.

‘The Cape Georgian Reserve is made to fit nicely between new and old world style. It is a true reflection of the unique terroir of the Simonsberg region’

To order Marklew Family Wines directly from the farm, contact Haidee at wine@marklew.co.za or call 0836599955.

V IS IT WW W.MA RKL E W. C O . Z A TO F I N D O U T MO RE .

Panel Report | WINE

OPENING THE

Mystery Box This month the panel dips into the two exciting categories of little-known reds and whites as well as some trusty favourites.

Who knows what we’ll find?

BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Panel Report

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL DRY WHITE BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Allée Bleue Isabeau 2017 ALSO LIKED: Babylonstoren Candide 2020, Boland One Formation White Blend 2020, Retief Reserve Cape Blend White 2019, Villiera White Blend 2020

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o more surfboards and bathing costumes, now it’s all about rugby boots cluttering the hallway—a sure sign that we’re deep into winter! Buttoned-up and well wrapped-up for those of us who are less energetic, we keep the remote handy. If we’re not actually on the rugby field, we’ll be watching, preferably with a good companion by our side—in a glass!

With longer evenings and less time out of doors it’s a great time for a more thoughtful, even analytical approach to drinking wine. What was that special wine that we liked so much? What did we discover this year? How about trying something new? M-mm, a lot of thoughts, but for some, maybe none at all? So, what about a bit of exploring, to try out new wines, and who knows, possibly find a new hot favourite. There are bound to be some pleasant surprises as we dip into the

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great mystery boxes that are Unusual Whites and Unusual Reds.

As global warming massively affects the agricultural industry, and especially the wine industry, long term planning has become essential. We’ll be seeing more varieties from warm countries such as those from around the Mediterranean which have proven to be particularly rich hunting grounds. Good wine needs grapes that deliver enticing aromas, balanced acids and good ripeness in the face of changing weather, and it’s a big ask. Our viticulturists have been beavering away for a long time already and the exciting new wine varieties we see now are not exactly so new having been in the pipeline for over ten years.

It’s a long process starting with choosing varieties that will perform well under much warmer conditions, then importation, testing for diseases (the prohibited list from the Dept of Agriculture is very long), planting on an experimental scale in order to evaluate the vines, and finally planting on a wider commercial scale. Remember, too, that after each planting it will take three years before those vines bear grapes. Thank goodness we have the scientists, the viticulturists and the plant pathologists to make sure it all works properly.

And so we taste…

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Boland Classic Chenin Sauv Blanc 2020, Cavalli Cremello 2018, Darling Lime Kilns 2018, De Krans Tritonia 2018, Ernst Gous & Co 2020, MAN White Blend 2020, Cavalli Cremello 2018, Stonedance Granite White 2020, Truter Agaat Christina 2018

SWEET WHITE WINES WINE-OF-THEMONTH CLUB: Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2020 ALSO LIKED: Darling Winemaker’s Selection Bukettraube 2020, Paul Cluver Estate Riesling 2018, Waverley Hills Organic Pinot Grigio 2020, Wellington Imprint Frizzante Blanc NV WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Balance Natural Sweet White NV, De Krans Premium Moscato Perlé 2020, Delheim Gewürztraminer 2019, De Wet Petillant Fonte NV, De Wetshof Mine d’Or Riesling 2018, De Wetshof Riesling 2017, Hartenberg Occasional Riesling 2017, Nitida Riesling 2020, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2019, Van Loveren SLH Gewürztraminer 2019

Panel Report | WINE

‘What I like is the PEACH and STONEFRUIT and some of these have GORGEOUS AROMAS’ UNUSUAL WHITE VARIETIES Over the last three years or so we have seen the rise and rise of Viognier, almost to the point where it is no longer an unusual variety.

Originally from the Rhône region in France where summers can be scorching, it was a shooin for importing to SA. What we saw with the first vintages were overripe, over-oaked, rather clumsy wines, but all that has changed.

“I’m seeing real elegance here, so different from those early wines,” notes Christine.

Clive: “What I like is the peach and stonefruit and some of these have gorgeous aromas.”

We all agree that our winemakers have developed a good feel for the variety and are making some really classy versions.

We find Grenache Blanc popping up more and more, but it comes in for a good deal of criticism. Firstly, some of the wines show the slightly-watery, young-vine character, some are just unripe, but some are really attractive with a slightly spicy, smoky character which is useful in a blend.

Malu: “Mean and green. If it’s going to be like this why bother to make the wine?”

“There was one that was a star, nice depth and really interesting and it’s not like anything I know,” from Irina.

Yes, it’s certainly bringing a new taste to the white wine spectrum, just needs time.

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL We all enjoy Riesling, but in recent tastings they have disappointed. Is there no market for it?

Have the winemakers lost interest? It’s a shame, because Riesling is hardly new, being one of the world’s great classic whites. C’mon, winemakers, do this!

Pinot Grigio once again disappoints—utterly lacking in flavour and structure.

“I couldn’t find anything in these,” from a crestfallen Dave.

“It is what it is,” sighs Malu.

We decide these are made merely to accompany food with no distraction whatsoever.

“I’m disappointed, there was not sufficient varietal character in so many of these,” from Claude.

He’s right, while there are some big successes, many of these wines are from vines that are still quite young and they need to grow into their character—they have yet to find their feet in our SA soil and find that it’s good.

He ends on a happier note, “At least the Colombars all showed varietal character!”

UNUSUAL WHITE VARIETIES WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Cavalli Foal Verdelho 2017 ALSO LIKED: Doran Roussanne 2018, Highlands Roads Semillon 2019, Nitida Semillon 2019, Simonsig Verdelho 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Duke Of Wellington White Pinotage 2020, Doran Grenache Blanc 2018, Eagle’s Nest Viognier 2018, Morgenster Vermentino 2020, Four Cousins Collection Pinot Grigio 2019 Gustus Bukettraube 2018, Piekenierskloof Grenache Blanc 2019, Piekenierskloof Grenache Blanc 2020, Saronsberg Roussanne 2019, Springfield Albarino 2020, Van Loveren Neils Pick Colombar 2020, Wildehurst Viognier 2019

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CHARDONNAY Now here’s a category that is showing a revamp. From being a modest style with very few show-offs we are seeing a revitalised and much more interesting collection of wines. For the last couple of years Chardonnay was overshadowed

by Sauvignon Blanc as consumers rushed to buy the then-trendy wine and winemakers seemed to drop the Chardonnay ball. Not so any more, Chardonnay’s right back in the game, and not only with more-pricey oaked versions, but right across the whole spectrum.

“The unoaked are getting far more interesting,” from Malu.

“There is lovely intensity in some of these,” Christine.

So it’s not necessary to go for the big guns, the unoaked versions can deliver some serious flavours and delightful drinking. The main action remains, however, with oaked Chards.

But then, there’s oak and then there’s oak.

To be more precise—barrels versus staves. To reach a certain price point, or when Covid strikes and importing new barrels is not possible, winemakers reach out for the next best thing —immersing oak staves in the wine. When thoughtfully done, good staves can mimic a barrel, to some extent. What they cannot mimic is the slow development of certain compounds that are formed by combinations of oxygen, lees, alcohol, acid and oak flavour. They will, however, give some of the sought-after oakiness we seek.

Greg, “Good fruit intensity and oak support, but some lack the character one gets from

stirring of the lees. Some show a bit too much age—you can see it in that slight sherried character, but at the same time we see that Chardonnay can age.”

“The ones I like have citrus overtones, new oak and creaminess from stirring the lees.

Those with great balance I scored especially highly,” from Chardonnay-winemaker, Clive.

“Some really good examples, they have character and personality, also good intensity of fruit. My highest scores go to the older wines which says something about their ability to age,” from Christine.

Colin, too, is very enthusiastic, “Buttered toast, creamy, lemony, citrus, all sorts of lovely flavours.”

Clive comes to life again, “Minerality is everything.”

Not all is perfect, however.

Margaret, “Love the typicity and nice Chardonnay character, but it’s not always here, but there are some very good wines among them.”

Greg has not finished with oak yet, “I love Chardonnay, but in some I literally tasted the staves, then I was underwhelmed.”

Colin gets in a quick dig at Sauvignon Blanc, “So if you’re in a restaurant and you order a Sauvignon Blanc and not a Chardonnay—you’re showing your ignorance!”

Some last words, “They must be challenging, to make you think,” from Greg, then Malu adds, “They must be luxurious!”

They must be

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WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL CHARDONNAY WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Tierhoek Chardonnay 2019 ALSO LIKED: Bruce Jack Reserve Chardonnay 2019, Simonsig Chardonnay 2019, Tangled Tree Chardonnay 2019, Van Loveren Chardonnay 2020 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Bellevue Chardonnay Reserve 2019, Bergsig Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2020, Canto Wooded Chardonnay 2019, Ken Forrester Petit Chardonnay 2019, Paul Cluver Estate Chardonnay 2018, Rietvallei Classic Chardonnay 2019, Survivor Chardonnay 2019, The Drift Ghost In The Machine Chardonnay 2020, Van Loveren Christina Chardonnay 2020, Waverley Hills Organic Chardonnay 2018

LUXURIOUS!

Panel Report | WINE

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL

So HOW DO YOU RATE a Marselan if you’ve NOT TASTED it before?

UNUSUAL REDS It’s not often a person gets to taste Cabernet Franc, Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, Marselan, Nero d’Avola and Carignan all on one table.

It’s a great mystery box, and it yields delicious surprises. Yes, we panel people do experiment, but these tastings are exceptional. So how do you rate a Marselan if you’ve not tasted it before? There is nothing to rate it against, and no previous experience of the variety? It must then be rated like all wines—is it delicious, does it have fruit concentration, are the components in harmony and most important, is it well balanced?

Easy peasy. Not all wines in these categories are new, but they are rare or unusual often because of newness. But like in all mystery boxes there are disappointments, and we live with them.

Greg speaks out, “Can’t realistically rate them as a variety when there’s only one wine, and what if there are two and one is good and the other not? So, I can tell you that I like the Carignan and the Malbec, and the Cabernet Francs are always good.”

“These are fresh and modern, up to the minute,” Malu.

“It’s a nice category to explore wines that you don’t usually buy. And it’s good to see the quality here,” Winnie.

“These are ripe and have developed good flavour and great texture, absolutely good to drink, a good category.” Christine.

Malu and Irina like the Mourvèdres.

Grenache Noir has a mixed reception—liked

by Malu and Colin, not liked by Irina and Claude.

Colin finds lots of black berry fruit, but Irina

UNUSUAL REDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Bellevue Malbec 2017 ALSO LIKED: DeMorgenzon DMZ Grenache Noir 2019, KWV Mentors Cabernet Franc 2017, Marklew Cabernet Franc 2019, Village Lane Cabernet Franc 2016

thinks they’re thin and watery as the vines are still too young.

Cinsaut is disappointing, also a problem with young vines.

Clive decides to experiment at a new level, “I’m taking home all the Chateauneuf du Pape varieties so I can play around with them!” That means Grenache, Cinsaut and Mourvèdre will be in his bag for some private blending.

Cabernet Franc is a stalwart, showing its class over and over again, but is also not immune.

Sometimes we find examples that have faded, a pointer to earlier drinking. Remember, it’s not big brother Cabernet Sauvignon with its enviable longevity. So drink the Franc while waiting for the Sauvignon.

SHIRAZ A panel favourite simply because they are so darn good. It seems to be a variety that is intrinsically amiable and obliging whatever you wish to do with it—charming everyday wines, fruit-forward wines, or intense, top-of-the-range blockbusters—Shiraz will deliver. Clearly, it comfortable and has found that firm foothold in SA soil.

Many styles and many wines, but Shiraz has been evolving over the years from rich and deep, nudging-towards-port styles to lighter, more red fruit-driven wines made for earlier drinking. There is also a movement towards planting in cooler areas to produce “Cool-climate Shiraz”, rather puzzling for a variety famous for performing well in hot climates.

“I found some very nice wines with lots of

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Balance Pinot Noir BV 2019, Bellevue Cinsaut 2019, Boland One Formation Grenache 2019, Dornier Malbec 2017, MAN Kara Tara Pinot Noir 2019, Paul Cluver Estate Pinot Noir 2018, Paul Cluver Village Pinot Noir 2019, Piekenierskloof Cinsaut 2019, Waverley Hills Organic Grenache 2018, Van Loveren Blue Velvet Pinot Noir 2020, Welgegund Grenache Noir 2019

SHIRAZ WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Allée Bleue Shiraz 2019 ALSO LIKED: Bellevue Shiraz 2019, Boland Classic Shiraz 2019, Bon Courage Pepper Tree Shiraz 2019, Bruce Jack Clean Slate Shiraz 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Bruce Jack Ghost In Machine Shiraz 2019, Bruce Jack Shiraz 2020, Clos Malverne Devonet Shiraz 2017, Dewalt Heyns Weathered Hands Shiraz 2017, Hofstraat Renosterbos Shiraz 2019, John Montagu Shiraz 2019, Juno Shiraz 2019, Kranskop Shiraz 2018, Niel Joubert Shiraz 2017, Oude Denneboom Black Harrier Shiraz 2019, Rietvallei Shiraz 2018, Saronsberg Shiraz 2018

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WINE | Panel Report

CHARMING EVERYDAY WINES, fruit-forward wines, or intense, top-of-the-range BLOCKBUSTERS – SHIRAZ WILL DELIVER Shiraz character—leathery, smoky, spicy— terrific,” from Dave looking chuffed.

Malu echoes this, “Delicious, meaty, savoury, spicy and the 2017’s stand out. I don’t like raisiny, jammy flavours.”

Greg joins in, “Like the Marmite, white pepper, Asian steak, and if I don’t get that together with good balance, then maybe some tobacco and cigar… ” Malu is still thinking out loud about what she likes, “Primary fruits, layers, fruit, flowers, spice, tomato leaf —I don’t want tertiary flavours—I need layers and layers of

primary flavours.”

But then we get a different view, from Christine, “I gave higher scores to the older wines, whereas the younger wines are fairly ordinary.” Definitely some tertiary aromas and flavours there…

We also find a whole group of attractive, younger easy-to-drink wines—nothing fancy, but packed with fruit and showing great charm.

“All so recognisable as Shiraz.

Unmistakeable.” From Greg.

Claude sums up, “Lighter styles, a lot of

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Our Pride & Joy Home to South Africa’s First Commercial Pinotage Wine

A destination with a honoured position in South African wine history. It was our single block pinotage vineyard, planted in 1953 that produced the world’s first commercially bottled Pinotage.

The first Pinotage plantings made their way onto Bellevue soil in the early 1950’s when P.K. Morkel was attempting to plant Gamay noir. With no success in finding any he was advised to plant this newly developed variety called Pinotage.

To salute the vision and bravery of PK Morkel, Bellevue takes utmost care of the 1953 Pinotage block which is still in full production. It remains the Pride and Joy of Bellevue and a very special wine is made from this block, called “The 1953”.

W W W. B E L L E V U E . C O. Z A

drinkability, but no stars.” Maybe that’s the whole point, after all what else do you want to do with your wine?

So what do we want from Shiraz?

Spicy, smoky, for Claude Generosity, for Winnie.

Fullness, lusciousness, for Margaret Comfort wine, for Dave There’s probably only one variety on this planet that can give us all that—it’s SHIRAZ!

Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Gabrielskloof Chenin Blanc 2021 (Price R149) A complex nose involving green citrus, white peach and jasmine with a full palate showing lemon curd and golden delicious apples. A salted macadamia mouthfeel, long finish with a lingering, meringue-like creaminess. Freshness from zesty green apple skin. Cellar for 2 years. PAIRING: Pork, turkey, chicken and vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower and carrots.

2. Gabrielskloof Whole Bunch Syrah 2021 (Price R199) The third vintage continues in the same vain as the first two with dark berries, black olive tapenade, violets and a hint of reduction combining for a vintage that is all about intensity and purity of fruit. As the wine unfurls, the black fruits make way for brighter rhubarb and red plum, as cloves and liquorice add savoury complexity. PAIRING: Beef, lamb, game and poultry.

3. Waverley Hills Shiraz Reserve 2017 (Price R379) Intense purple colour. Concentrated white spices, fresh plum and fynbos (garrique) aromas rounded off by floral and violet notes and the smoky flavours of French oak. On the palate the wine has a soft and smooth entry and a long, fresh finish with integrated oak flavours. PAIRING: Grilled meats, vegetables, venison and beef stew.

‘A salted macadamia mouthfeel sets up a long finish with a lingering, meringue-like creaminess.’

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

4. Buitenverwachting Christine 2015 (Price R520) This Bordeaux style blend consists of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The wine offers rich red fruit characters reminiscent of ripe cherry and blackcurrant with dark chocolate and tobacco undertones. PAIRING: Red meats, game, succulent roasts and ostrich.

5. Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Price R369) On the nose blueberry, cassis and ripe black plum mix with cedar whiffs and the faintest hint of basil. The palate is all about chunky, chewy, magically integrated tannin. Luxurious deep-pile velvet fruit with mint-sprigged red berries and Christmas fruitcake. Drink now.

PAIRING: Rack of Karoo lamb and pan-wilted garden fresh spinach.

6. Dornier Bushvine Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R160) The nose of this wine shows aromas of stone fruit and citrus blossoms.

The palate is rich with concentrated flavours of yellow peaches and melons with a long, intense finish. PAIRING: Enjoy along with most rich seafood dishes, light style chicken dishes, salads and mild Thai curry dishes.

7. Dornier Donatus Red 2018 (Price R355) This nose is bursting with flavours of blackcurrant and liquorice. The palate is refined and elegant with silky tannins. On the palate flavours of blackberry and cassis are abundant, with hints of dark cherry and a touch of cedar. PAIRING: Lamb, venison or rare beef fillet. It will also work well with springbok carpaccio, beef or lamb stews.

8. Hillcrest Cabernet Franc 2019 (Price R265) This a well-structured wine displaying a bright red hue. There are chalky notes on the nose with a lovely minerality coming through. On the palate, there are hints of peppery spice, floral notes and red berries. PAIRING: Game birds such as duck or quail and would do equally well served with veal.

9. Croydon Title Deed Cape Blend 2020 (Price R130) Complex and elegant aroma of blackcurrants with hints of cedar and cigar box. Very rounded and full bodied wine in the Cape Blend style. Layered flavours of blackcurrant and chocolate mocha with vanilla tones and spice.

Finely textured velvet tannins and a long finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Italian food and red meat.

10. Charles Lang & Sons Merlot 2020 (Price R85) The palate is medium, realing juicy fruit, wonderful texture, fine grained tannins and has a silky finish. Drink now or in the next 5 years. PAIRING: Red meats, white meats, casseroles/stews, sushi, tuna steaks or on its own.

11. Villiera Monro Brut 2014 (Price R319) Rich, creamy, yeasty nose with a refreshing flavour on the middle palate developing complexity on the aftertaste.

Drink now. PAIRING: Fresh mussels in a white wine-creamy sauce; or baked chicken breasts with Parmesan and sage topping.

12. Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay 2021 (Price R100) A new blend from Buitenverwachting!

A delicious, unwooded blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

PAIRING: Shellfish, vegetarian dishes and Goat’s Cheese.

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

Green-tinged, PALE MID-GOLD. Almost floral lime citrus aromas, blossom and tangerine whiffs.

APPEALING rather than INTRIGUING

Timeless • Classic • Fresh

Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa.

You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door.

Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www. wineofthemonth.co.za

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

www.hartenbergestate.com

HartenbergWineEstate Hartenberg_Wine_Estate

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 5 5 Not for sale to persons under the age of 18.

God Bless

the Queen David Biggs toasts the queen of drinks

T

wo elderly guys are sitting on a bench. The one says to the other: “Which would you rather abstain from, women or wine?” The other replies, “I’d need to know the year.” Wine is often the subject of jokes and stories, amusing and serious, and is often compared to women.

It’s obviously widely regarded as the queen of drinks. Queens have reigned for many thousands of years while wine has played a leading role in ancient history, as well as featuring prominently in many religious ceremonies and writings for centuries. Interestingly, wine is one of the simplest drinks to make, needing only one ingredient— grapes. And in spite of its simplicity it is discussed and written about more than any other drink—or food —on earth. What is it that makes us regard this simple fermented fruit juice with such reverence and awe?

Maybe it’s the very fact of its simplicity—and at the same time, its enormous complexity—that keeps us intrigued. All that’s needed to produce alcohol is sugar and yeast. Grapes present us with both: sugar in the sweet juice and yeast in the dull “bloom” on the skins of the berries. Simple! But there are hundreds of grape varieties, each with its own flavour, and thousands of vineyards, each with its own soil and climate—each with its own unique influence on the wine.

Now things begin to look a little more complex.

In fact, every wine tells the story of the grape it was made from and the place where it grew. We are no longer just drinking juice: we are tasting the warm slopes of the Paarl mountain or the ancient vineyards of Bordeaux or the sundrenched Robertson valley. The queen is reminding us her empire circles the entire world. Every glass of wine requires our full attention. We can pop a can of beer without a thought, or slosh Coke into our brandy and slug it down without ceremony. But we feel obliged to treat wine with a little more respect.

We choose the glass with care, open the bottle with anticipation (and probably with a favourite corkscrew), look at the colour and clarity of the wine, sniff it, even if it is an inexpensive plonk, and feel obliged to mutter a quiet “cheers,” before taking that first sip. It’s quite a solemn little ceremony. We are, after all, in the presence of royalty.

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‘Wine is widely regarded as the Queen of drinks. The queen has reigned for many thousands of years and has played a leading role in many religious ceremonies and writings’

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