Food & Wine
Pairing
Rebecca Pitcairn and Susy Atkins top tips for pairing food and wine
Henry Jeffreys asks
Dan Farrell-Wright wonders
Chris Boiling investigates
Welcome from Dan
The end of summer is tinged with sadness as autumn rears it head and the nights start drawing in This autumn the nights will feel just a little darker, my good friend and colleague Stephen Barrett sadly and suddenly passed away in August Many of you may have met Stephen at one of our events or read his posts on our blog He was a lovely and thoughtful man who was happiest when sharing his knowledge and a glass of wine He will be missed by me and by many
On 23rd October, Stephen's birthday, there is a memorial taking place at The Loft in Plymouth I'll be there to celebrate a life well lived and
How
of lovely white flesh fruit whilst the palette has the subtle citrus fruit flavour of white grapefruit
raising a toast with a glass of Clos du Vieux Bourg Beaujolais Blanc 2020 - one of Stephen's favourites
This edition is full of other suggestions for great wines to drink this autumn Opposite, I review the 2024 growing season in Burgundy and Beaujolais On page 8 Chris Boiling investigates the many certifications for sustainable wines, and Henry Jeffreys provides his thoughts on biodynamic wines on page 22
What is on your dining table this season? Rebecca Pit cairn and Susy At kins offer up their top tips to enable you to pair food and wine like a pro on page 14
Whatever is in your glass, happy drinking!
Hangin' Around
As the sun rose over Haytor I started the electric motor on our whizzy new Volkswagen ID Buzz Cargo Katy and I were off to Burgundy and Beaujolais to meet with producers at the start of the growing season
Was 2024 poised to be a great vintage?
The journey had been meticulously planned Breakfast at Solstice Park would double up as a recharging stop to add enough power to carry us to the Eurotunnel Terminal (where a bank of super-fast chargers would be waiting to top us up further) A full battery would get us from Calais to Reims, the unofficial capital of Champagne, with time to freshen up before a
As the harvest begins in Burgundy and Beaujolais Dan Farrell-Wright asks whether 2024 has the potential to be a great vintage
flashy dinner engagement at 8 30pm
The chargers at Solstice Park where full. The chargers at the Eurotunnel where broken It transpires that to achieve the advertised range you need warm weather, a slow yet steady pace, and no desire to use the optional extras such as the radio or heating. At 8.32pm we dashed, unrefreshed, from the van to the restaurant; hotel check-in would have to wait
The following morning we left Reims for Chablis. Much like the rest of 2024, Sunday 24th March was wet Around the village of La Chapelle de Vaupelteigne ducks swam leisurely in the low-lying, flatter vineyards The previous ?
The best of Burgundy & Beaujolais
Louis Père et Fils Mercurey "L'Or Rouge" 2019
AOCMercurey
£3420 Any 6 mix | £38 Single
Waves of wild strawberry, dark cherry and a lovely dry, cranberry finish, all wrapped up with plush tannin and a silky smooth texture
Famille Descombe "Pierres
Dorées" Beaujolais Blanc 2022
AOCBeaujolais
£1755 Any 6 mix | £1950 Single
Expressive white flowers and orchard fruits The palate which has touches of green apple, citrus fruit and an amazing tension
1755
Famille Gueguen "La Vigne de 1975" 2022
AOCChablis
£26.55 Any 6 mix | £2950 Single
26 55
Fine and fruity, reminiscent of pears, citrus, with just a subtle note of almond The palate is clean and mineral with a beautiful length
Domaine Bel Avenir Fleurie "Poncie" 2022
AOCFleurie
£1575 Any 6 mix | £1750 Single
Delicate floral aromas Supple and silky tannins. Notes of red fruits accompanied by aromas of undergrowth and the finish reveals a peppery side
1575
days hardship paled into insignificance compared to the difficulties being faced by the regions vignerons On average Burgundy receives between 800mm and 1000mm of rain each year, this Sunday deluge brought the total rainfall for the year to more than 800mm, a years? worth of rain in less than three months
A few days later the Au Fils du Zinc restaurant posted an image on Instagram of their submerged dining room
Thanks to good drainage the premier and grand cru vineyards (i.e. those on the slopes) looked in better shape The same could be observed in the quick draining, sandy, granitic soils of the Beaujolais Cru That said, in late July the premier cru village of Meursault suffered a landslide due to the intensity of the rain
From Chablis we headed for the Beaujolais village of Chénas, where the temperature is generally 1-2ºCwarmer Already the vines had started to bud, making this one of the most precocious vintages in recent memory Everyone was worried about late frosts (the vineyards are not safe until well in to May), and, if the rain persisted, mildew
We left France with a van fully ladened with wine, mild electric vehicle range anxiety, and a sense that 2024 would be a tough year
Since our visit, rain has remained constant and mildew has been an ever-present threat. April brought frost and more flooding In June hail decimated Chablis?premier cru vineyards of Fourchaume and Fontenay
Now, as the harvest gets under way, I asked Cecile Dardenelli of Domaine Bel Avenir whether 2024 looks great, like
1964, or disappointing like 2014, 2004, 1994, 1984, and 1974 She explained, ?so much bad weather from January to the end of July gave us quite a fright.?
Thankfully most of their vines are in the hilly crus of northern Beaujolais, ?our vineyard is well structured Alain had no problem spraying the vines with his tractor, as we have paths every ten rows He did not need to go inside the rows which were soaked At some estates tractors are abandoned like plants in the vineyards!
?As a result, and unlike other winegrowers in our area and elsewhere, we have no disease at all The bunches are very healthy ? though small ? and we can already taste this lovely subtle nectar You really get the impression of biting into a cherry The skin is quite thick and the juice is dense
?We started sampling on 5th September to determine the order in which we?ll pick the vines This is very important so that we can vinify the wines in the best possible way and give them what we really want ? freshness, fruitiness, colour and alcohol ?
In a difficult year it is the small decisions made by the vignerons which determine the success, or otherwise, of the vintage Cecile finished by assuring me, ?once again we can say that the 2024 bel Avenir vintage will be a very fine vintage ?
Of course the proof of the pudding is in the eating and it could be at least a year before we sample much from the 2024 harvest However, Beaujolais Nouveau Day, celebrated annually on the third Thursday in November, gives us a first glimpse of the new vintage -
? ? ? ? ?
"a charming and well made Beaujolais Nouveau"
? ? ? ? ?
"the best nouveau I have ever tried"
? ? ? ? ?
"A really great wine, fresh and fruity"
? ? ? ? ?
"First time ordering a Beaujolais Nouveau wine and it was lovely!"
5 star customer reviews of the 2023 vinatge
PRE-ORDER
£12.60 for delivery on 21st Novem ber
Meet the Winemaker
The newest addition to our portfolio is winemaker João Port ugal Ram os. In twenty-five years he has gone from his personal vineyard to one of the most respected winemakers in Portugal
João Portugal Ramos started a personal project by planting 5 hectares of vineyards in Estremoz, Portugal, where he has lived since 1988 His first harvest was 1992 and until he built his first winery in 1997 he used rented buildings
With the opening of the Vila Santa winery in Estremoz the first Marquês de Borba Reserva is made and in the following year the Colheita is born, which, to this day, remains the strongest wine in the group showing unwavering consistency year after year In 2005 the winery and wines of Joao's in-laws, the Counts of Foz de Arouce, were added to the
Any 6 Mix £1170 T h e W h i t e s
T h e R e d s
Qunita de Foz Arouce White 2023
IGPBeira Atlântico
£1170 Any 6 mix | £13 Single
Any 6 Mix
£1170
An attractive lemon yellow colour Thanks to time in barrel there are complex aromas of lime and grapefruit, cut grass and fennel Well structured with clean acidity A smooth sipper, revealing vanilla and smoky undertones.
Quinta de Foz de Arouce Red 2020
IGPBeira Atlântico
£11.70 Any 6 mix | £13 Single
A red wine from the historic vineyards of Quinta de Foz Arouce produced from a blend of Baga and Touriga Nacional Good aromatic concentration with notes of red and black berry fruits and tar Soft and well-balanced
collection In 2007, with the assistance of winemaker José Maria Soares Franco, the Duorum project was launched in the golden Douro Valley
Duorum is the Latin for "from two" as it brings together quality wine and sustainability The vineyards at Castelo Melhor are sited in the Douro International Natural Park, a unique territory which protects three rupiculous bird species: the Egyptian vulture, the Griffon vulture, and the Black Stork The vineyards have been planted with natural
Marquês de Borba Colheita White 2023
DOCAlentejo
£12.60 Any 6 mix | £14 Single
Any 6 Mix
£1260
This white from Alentejo has a well defined colour flecked with touches of green Aromas of citrus fruit, exotic fruits and elegant spicy notes The palate is complex combining minerality, fresh acidity, and silky tannins
Marquês de Borba Colheita Red 2022
DOCAlentejo
£12.60 Any 6 mix | £14 Single
Any 6 Mix
£1260
This red from Alentejo has excellent aromatic concentration There is an intensely fruity aroma of black berries, cassis and preserves The tannins are smooth and silky. A good balance between fruit, acidity and tannin
vegetation and cover crops to prevent erosion, and vegetation strips with trees and shrubs have been planted along the tracks and waterways
After 25 years of winemaking, João received the ?Senhor do Vinho? (Wine Lord) Award in 2017 from Revista de Vinhos - the most respected Portuguese wine publication Today JPRwines are present throughout the world as leaders of Portuguese wines Joao now works side by side with two his children, João Maria and Filipa
Altitude by Duorum White 2023
AOCDouro
£19.80 Any 6 mix | £22 Single
Any 6 Mix
£19 80
Three indigenous grape varieties (Gouveio, Arinto, Rabigato) are aged on the fine lees for 5 months Resulting in intense aromas of lemon, pineapple, and light tropical fruits. Fresh and elegant in the mouth, with tropical fruit and a long finish
Altitude by Duorum Red 2022
AOCDouro
£19.80 Any 6 mix | £22 Single
Any 6 Mix
£19 80
Ruby red colour with hints of violets Intense aroma, dominated by ripe plum, blackberry, raspberry and strawberry. A full-bodied, fresh wine, with nicely balanced acidity Smooth tannins, with a fresh and persistent finish
Going Green
What?s the difference between organic, biodynamic, sustainable and regenerative viticulture?And do these terms make any difference to the taste of the wine?
Chris Boiling investigates...
The new vineyard manager at an old wine estate in South Australia was worried. He could see that the gnarly old vines, planted in 1893, might die during his watch if he continued the ?modern? methods of viticulture that he?d learned at university ? especially in the face of hotter summers and drier winters.
He did some research and took the brave decision to stop using pesticides and herbicides, to stop tilling the soil, to plant native grasses between the rows of vines, and to bring bats in to eat grapevine moths. He abandoned his old ways and embraced the new At first this was organic and now it is regenerative farming
But what do these terms really mean ? and can you taste the difference?
Organic: Back to Basics
Organic viticulture is perhaps the most well-known sustainable approach in the wine world This method prohibits the use of synthetic chemicals, including pesticides, herbicides, and fertilisers Instead, organic grape-growers rely on natural alternatives to maintain soil fertility (like composted waste) and to control pests and diseases Instead of using
herbicides, they use mechanical methods to control weeds.
But even organic producers are allowed to spray copper sulphate to thwart the main enemy of grapes ? mildew They may not spray herbicides, but tilling under every row of vines increases tractor usage, topsoil loss and soil compaction Another criticism of organic farming is that the bodies that certify it (eg ECOCERT, Letis, USDA, BioGro) don? t check on the amount of water used to irrigate the vines or if workers are being treated ethically.
Biodynamic: Holistic Harmony
Biodynamic farming takes organic principles a step further, viewing the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem This holistic approach, developed in the 1920s by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, incorporates special preparations into farming practices to increase soil fertility and microbial activity, while reducing tillage, and replacing mono-culture with biodiversity
The most famous preparations involve burying cow horns stuffed with either cow manure or ground quartz to ?harvest cosmic forces in ?
the soil? After six months, they will be dug up, ?dynamized?in water and sprayed near the vines
Much of the work ? including planting, harvesting, bottling and burying the preparations ? is carried out after consulting the lunar calendar
Some of the world?s greatest vineyards hold biodynamic certification from organisations such as Demeter or Biodyvin
However, this farming choice has some of the same limitations as organics in that it doesn? t mandate farm worker welfare, or the reduction of resources. In addition, its critics point out it was written 100 years ago by a man with little first-hand farming experience who spends more time talking about cosmic and spiritual energy than agriculture
Sustainable: The Middle Ground
Sustainable viticulture sits somewhere between conventional and organic farming It aims to reduce the environmental impact of wine production while maintaining economic viability
The key thrusts include reducing the use of chemical inputs, water and energy; reducing waste and recycling as much as possible
There is an increasing social element to these programmes which sees wineries working with and helping their local communities
While not as strict as organic or biodynamic methods, sustainable viticulture has the advantage of being more accessible to a wider range of producers
One problem with the term ?sustainable?is that anyone can claim what they are doing is sustainable There are ?certified sustainable? programmes, but each certification has its own criteria for measuring how the applicant advances the goals of reducing the
Christian and Caroline Gourjon farm a very special plot in the south of France. Their vineyard is sited in the Natura 2000 reserve which was created to protect the Little Bustard The birds, depicted on every label, nest on the ground where they are sheltered by the vines
The estate straddles the appellations of Cost ières de Nîm es and Côt es du Rhône. The vinetards are all certified organic, and from 2023 they will also be certified biodynamic
?This part of the world, where I grew up, is the natural link between the Rhône valley and the Languedoc Here, pebbles mingle with the garrigue
More than 2000 years of history have shaped the towns, villages and vineyard?s," is Christian's poetic description of the location
Les Vignes d'Héloïse Blanc 2022
AOCCostières de Nîmes
£1260 Any 6 mix | £14 Single
Aromas of honeysuckle and lemon, with touches of stone fruits. The palate is full, fresh, mineral, and long
Les Vignes d'Héloïse Rosé 2022
AOCCostières de Nîmes
£1260 Any 6 mix | £14 Single
A fine, refreshing, and expressive rosé with juicy cherry fruit and touches of pear and spice. Refined and textural.
Les Vignes d'Héloïse Rouge 2022
AOCCostières de Nîmes
£12.60 Any 6 mix | £14 Single
Alive with blueberry jam, wild strawberries and black, and red bramble fruits This is a full and generous wine. Velvety and smooth.
L'Essentiel est Invisible pour les Yeux
Blanc 2021
AOCCôtes-du-Rhône
£13.50 Any 6 mix | £15 Single
Lime blossom, stone fruits, baked apples on a rich and complex palate Freshness with a beautiful minerality and salinity
L'Essentiel est Invisible pour les Yeux
Rouge 2021
AOCCôtes-du-Rhône
£1485 Any 6 mix | £16 50 Single
Black and red berry fruit on an ample and generous palate with notes of blueberry jam and wild raspberries With velvety tannins
environmental and social impacts of grape-growing Certification schemes include: HVEin France (Champagne has its own scheme ? VDC); WASP in Portugal, Equalitas and SQNPI in Italy; CCSW, SIP, Lodi Rules and LIVE Certified in the USA; and SWSA in South Africa Australia has a national programme called Sustainable Winegrowing Australia and Chile has a sustainability certification managed by Wines of Chile.
B Corporation is an international certification for wineries that are committed to using low-impact farming methods and responsible resource management, as well as treating their workforce, community and natural surroundings fairly and responsibly
Critics point out that some producers who claim to be ?sustainable? are still spraying herbicides and pesticides.
Regenerative: The New Frontier
Regenerative viticulture is a relatively new concept that?s gaining traction in the wine world This approach goes beyond sustainability to actively regenerate ecosystems and improve soil health, biodiversity, and carbon sequestration
It begins with the soil health and biodiversity core of biodynamics but leaves out the mystical elements It also adds farm worker equity from the best of the sustainability certifications
The United Nations has called it ?one of the most effective ways to make food systems more sustainable; and to build a safer, cleaner, more inclusive post-Covid world?
The key thing to look for is Regenerative Organic Certification, which is administered by the nonprofit Regenerative Organic Alliance
But which wine tastes best?
There?s no one-size-fits-all approach to sustainable viticulture. Each method has its ?
own philosophy and practices, ranging from the strictly regulated organic and biodynamic approaches to 0 more flexible regenerative and sustainable methods.
Ultimately, the choice of farming method depends on various factors, including climate, soil type, and the winemaker?s personal philosophy What?s clear is that the wine industry is increasingly recognising the importance of environmental stewardship, and that?s something we can all raise a glass to
But can we notice any differences in the glass?
There?s an ongoing debate in the wine world about whether wines made using organic, biodynamic, sustainable or regenerative practices taste better than conventionally produced wines While there?s no definitive scientific consensus, many wine experts and consumers believe these alternative viticultural methods can lead to superior wines
I believe this is because of the extra care and attention given to the vineyards by practitioners of these eco-friendlier methods Then there is the improved soil health, reduction in chemicals, and increased biodiversity ? factors which are more likely to lead to healthier vines with deeper root systems, making them better equipped to withstand extreme weather events and climate change These factors are also more likely to lead to more complex and healthier wines with fewer chemical residues ? giving a truer expression of the terroir (the unique environmental factors that differentiate wines from different regions)
Or it may just be that I feel better knowing I have bought a wine from a producer who truly cares about their slice of Planet Earth and their role in protecting it -
Lunaria "La Belle"
Malvasia 2021
IGPTerre di Chieti
£16 88 Any 6 mix | £18 75 Single
Pale gold in colour with a nose of ripe stone fruits and fresh flowers The palate is soft and ripe with notes of nectarine, peach, orange zest and candied lemon peel.
Les Quarterons, Cremant de Loire
Brut NV
AOCCrémant de Loire
£2115 Any 6 mix
£2350 Single
Pale lemon in colour with notes of baked apples on the nose The palate has a lovely, soft mousse with notes of lemon, apple, honeysuckle and brioche
Domaine de Fournelles
Côte de Brouilly 2022
AOCCôte de Brouilly
£17.10 Any 6 mix | £19.00 Single
Notes of blackberries and cassis on the palate accompany soft tannins It is elegant and the crunchy fruitiness of its aromas will charm the most delicate palate
Lunaria "Ruminat" Primitivo 2023
IGPTerre di Chieti
£16.88 Any 6 mix | £18 75 Single
California Zinfandel?s equally bold and brash Italian sister Aromas of black cherry and violets. The palate is soft and smooth with notes of sweet black cherries and blackcurrant fruits combined with notes of cinnamon and cloves supported by lovely soft tannins.
Laibach Chenin Blanc "Sur Lie" 2021
WO Stellenbosch
£1935 Any 6 mix | £2150 Single
Time spent on the fine lees has added an unexpected dimension to this wine
Exotic papaya and white peach Lovely mineral character Long with a lovely balanced lingering lemon and lime acidity
Domaine Gueguen Aligoté La Vigne de Marie Louise 2022
AOCBourgogne
£17.55 Any 6 mix | £19.50 Single
Aligoté is often referred to as the other white grape of Burgundy
This has appealing floral notes on the nose whilst the palate comes alive with lemon sherbet and green apples
It's a deliciously, moreishly easy drinker.
Lunaria "Civitas" Pecorino 2022
IGPTerre di Chieti
£16 88 Any 6 mix | £18 75 Single
A soft and pleasant whitewine with aromas of citrus, ripe pear, peach and orange blossom The palate is clean and rich with a pleasing mineral complexity and a long finish Pecorino takes its name from the Italian word ?pecora?meaning sheep, due to the local sheep that often eat the grapes whilst walking through the vineyards
Château Coujan Tradition 2022
AOCSaint Chinian
£1395 Any 6 mix | £1550 Single
A dangerously easy wine to drink The colour is youthful red with hints of purple The aromas are bright bramble fruits and a little redcurrant The palate it is fresh and alluring as garrigue herbs dance on a long finish
False Bay "Slow" Chenin Blanc 2023
WO Coastal Region
£945 Any 6 mix | £10 50 Single
Chenin crafted the wild way ? old vine fruit, fermented with yeast found naturally on the grapes. Up to six months lees ageing after fermentation gives a slow and natural evolution and a harmonious and balanced wine
How to Pair Food & W ine like a Pro
Rebecca Pit cairn pairs cool climate wines with a range of dishes, Susy At kins looks at the best foods to pair with wine from hot climates
Until I started learning about wine, I found being given the wine list in a restaurant quite intimidating I?d either hand it straight to whoever else I was dining with or stare at it blankly before ordering a glass of something familiar.
Things are a little different now and I enjoy sitting with food and wine menus side by side, considering what members of the party are eating and trying to seek out the most unusual pairing
In saying that, if there is a sommelier to hand, I always ask their opinion. They should know the menus and understand better than anyone what marries well together They usually have some pretty good tales about the origin or maker of the wine too, which just adds to the experience
wines to complement specific foods.
Acidity plays a key part in this ?Freshness in wine can really help in pairing with food ? ideally the wine?s acidity should match or exceed the acidity in the dish, otherwise the wine can feel a little flabby,?explains Laura Rhys, who is one of less than 300 Master Sommeliers in the world and ambassador for English wine brand Gusbourne.
"Winesfrom cooler climates tend to be fresher so that makesthem perfect partners for lighter meals"
Rebecca Pit cairn
It?s another story, of course, when you?re looking to buy wines for a meal you might be planning at home Understanding the climate of a wine region and how it influences the style and characteristics of the wine produced is a good place to start when picking
Wines from cooler climates, such as Alsace, New Zealand and Great Britain, tend to be fresher so that makes them perfect partners for lighter meals but equally, they can cut through dishes with a fatty, buttery element More heavily flavoured dishes often require a richer, fuller flavoured wine and these will usually come from warmer climates, such as Argentina, Tuscany and southern France
Over the next couple of pages, I will share some of my top cool climate food and wine pairings from England, while Susy At kins has chosen some dishes paired with wines from France?s warm climate Southern Rhône region ?
Food & Wine Pairing
T opT ips
1 Mat ch t he int ensit y of t he w ine and food
Big, bold foods should be paired with big bold wines Delicate foods should be paired with delicate wines
2 Pair fruit y w ines w it h fruit y dishes
Cranberry with turkey? Pork with apple? Use classic combinations to guide you Green, clean, appley Chablis makes a perfect partner for pork; and fruity Beaujolais works a treat with Turkey
3 Com plem ent or cont rast
The best pairing can be the perfect complement ? rich, unctuous lobster with buttery Californian Chardonnay Or it can be a contrast, the acidity in a crisp, dry, Riesling would cut through the richness of a lobster.
4 Go sw eet er t han sw eet
To prevent dessert wine from tasting a little flat, the wine should be sweeter than the dessert. Often the best option is to go for a not-too-sweet dessert such as a fruit tart
Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV Hampshire
£33.75 Any 6 mix | £3750 Single
Sparkling wines are what cool climate regions like England excel at Grapes here don? t ripen particularly quickly, resulting in lower natural sugars and higher acidity, which is key for crispness and to enable wine to age Left on the lees for four years in the bottle, this is a blend of the classic Champagne grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) grown on the chalk soils of Hampshire Aromas of lemon zest, orange peel and honeysuckle combine with green apple and freshly baked, fluffy brioche on the palate It?s a real celebratory party starter and pairs brilliantly with canapes, such as smoked salmon blinis.
Riverview Crouch Valley Pinot Noir 2021
Essex
£35.55 Any 6 mix | £3950 Single
Pinot Noir is a star grape in Essex's Crouch Valley and this 2021 single varietal from winemaking newcomers Katy and Umut Yesil, based in the heart of the valley,is probably the finest I have tried from England
It has a really elegant nose with floral aromas, red currant and cranberry and that trademark smokiness you expert from Pinot Noir. To taste, it?s all about the blackberry and cherry flavours rounded off with a subtle, soft kiss of earthiness The perfect choice for a lamb or duck main ? I paired it with lamb steaks cooked on the barbecue and it was divine, but it would be equally delicious with a rack roasted in the oven
Sharpham Dart Valley Reserve 2022
Devon
£1439 Any 6 mix | £1599 Single
Calancombe Pinot Noir Rosé 2019
Devon
£18.00 Any 6 mix | £20 00 Single
£1439
This ripe and fruit driven white wine from Devon?s Sandridge Barton Vineyard is a real crowd pleaser It?s made from Madeleine Angevine, a grape originally from the Loire Valley that was brought to the UK in the 1950s and grows well here because it doesn? t require particularly warm or dry conditions Similar in style to an Alsatian Pinot Blanc, its light floral notes and crisp acidity make it a great pairing for seafood, particularly crab and oyster, but its apricot notes and slightly off-dry style also make it a good match for cheese
? ? ?
Huxbear Orange Bear 2021
Devon
£15.30 Any 6 mix | £1700 Single
While trendy now, Orange wine has been around pretty much since wine began ? a tribute to how the Georgian?s made wine in qvevris (an egg-shaped clay vessel buried in the ground) thousands of years ago. 21st century orange ? or ?skin contact?? wines come in a variety of styles ? most are low intervention, some are more refined, but all have a distinct, weightier mouthfeel than white wine and have tannins, so match a variety of foods. This one from Lucy and Ben Hulland in Devon is a great match for the after-dinner cheese plate (blue cheese particularly) but also makes a cracking accompaniment to a Moroccan tagine or stew.
While rosé has a reputation as a wine for quaffing in the sunshine, these days, it?s completely socially acceptable to drink it with food and I for one encourage it, if you can find the right pairing In my opinion, rosés that are warmer in colour and slightly fuller in body usually work better than the pale pink Provence-style rosés ? or at least give more options for food pairings This one, from Devon, is made from 100 per cent Pinot Noir and has plenty of summer fruit on the nose and a peachy palate It works particularly well with poached salmon, but I think could also pair with a feta and walnut salad starter
Lyme Bay Martin's Lane Chardonnay 2021
Essex
£36.00 Any 6 mix | £40 00 Single
One of the driest and warmest parts of the UK, the Crouch Valley in Essex is gaining a reputation as the best place to grow grapes for still English wines and this Chardonnay is a prime example Made from Burgundian clones and lightly oaked, this is full of flavour and texture but retains the nuances of a cool climate Chardonnay Lots of red apple, peach and lemon with a hint of almond on the nose and a well-rounded stone fruit and soft buttery palate, this pairs amazingly well with creamy garlic chicken but would also be beautiful alongside monkfish with lemon and parsley butter
While Rebecca is enjoying England?s cool climate wines, I?m sunning myself in hot southern France! The contrast makes for some very different food and wine matching tips
This part of the world delivers riper grapes and more powerful and richly textured reds, so I need heartier, more robust
"powerful and richlytextured redsneed
heartier, more robust dishes"
Susy At kins
Château Coujan
Roc & Rolle 2022
AOCSaint Chinian
£13.95 Any 6 mix | £1550 Single
The ground where the Rolle (aka Vermentino) grapes grow for this wine is rocky, hence Roc & Rolle!
There?s juicy citrus, a hint of apricot and a dab of creaminess to the texture of this wine (it?s not oaky though) It can take on a homemade fish pie, tried and tested, or pair it with an autumnal butternut squash risotto
Domaine Maby "Prima Donna" Tavel 2023
AOCTavel
£17.55 Any 6 mix | £1950 Single
dishes to match with them The best whites retain wonderful freshness but have a bit more roundness and ripe fruit than their cooler climate equivalents
Here are some pairings with my selection of Wickham?s southern French range and note, they are all organic wines
Château Font Barriele "L'Essentiel est Invisible pour les Yeux" Blanc 2021
AOCCôtes-du-Rhône
£13.50 Any 6 mix | £1500 Single
"Important thingscannot beseen bythe eye"says the label on this distinctive white from Château Font Barriele A blend of Clairette and Roussanne, it has a peachy heart with good minerally acidity, medium texture and a subtle note of ground ginger Just lovely with roast chicken or creamy chicken, prawn or vegetable korma, it punches above its relatively low price point
The deep cerise hue of this premium rosé tells you immediately that this is not in the classic pallid Provencal style! It?s rich with cranberry and Victoria plum but retains a youthful freshness and the finish is long and ripe but dry Tavel rosés like this are renowned for their ability to match spicy seafood (grilled tuna steaks with Asian spiced crust, anyone?) and do try it with Moroccan-inspired dishes like tomato couscous
Domaine Maby
Domaine Les Caizergues "Les Tisserands" 2020
IGPSaint-Guilhem-le-Désert
£1215 Any 6 mix | £1350 Single
6 Mix £1215
A hugely useful blend of syrah, merlot and grenache, uoaked and easy to enjoy Look out for cassis and cherries, a herbal hint and match it with peppery sausages, pork chop or a bubbling cheese pizza (and pepperoni is best with this) The ?Tisserands?in the title are the silk workers of the region where it is produced
? ? ? ? ?
Abbaye de Valmagne
"Cardinal de Bonzi" 2020
AOCGrés de Montpellier
£28.35 Any 6 mix | £3150 Single
"Nessun Dorma" Lirac 2021 AOCLirac
£23.85 Any 6 mix | £26 50 Single
I love this Grenache/Syrah blend from opera fan Richard Maby so much that I almost want the Autumn to draw in more quickly so I can pair it with cold-weather food
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Its savoury depths and big twist of black pepper over spiced blackberries, red plums and cassis make for a warming and satisfying treat It chimes in brilliantly with a beef casserole with plenty of mushrooms and bay leaves or a splendid rib of beef and all the trimmings
A deeply aromatic red from just four hectares of very old Languedoc vines, this is a blend of four grapes and it is wonderfully complex, with woody herbals jostling with forest fruits, especially wild brambles, and a fresher raspberry note lifting it on the finish This is just the mouthfilling but balanced wine to appreciate while lingering over a top-notch cheeseboard, especially when full-flavoured cheeses like mature Cheddar, Gouda and Munster take centre stage.
Christmas Uncorked D an'sChristmasD ayS election!
I'm unabashedly traditional when it comes to Christmas. I want wines that are celebratory and instantly recognisable - think Champagne, Sancerre, Claret, and Sauternes
Pre-order The Classic Christ m as Day Select ion today.
Is it a little too early to be thinking about Christmas? I?m sure I spotted a couple of baubles when I was out shopping the other day
Making the most of the big day and keeping it stress free all comes down to preparation In my army days we would talk about the 6 P?s ? ?prior preparation and planning prevents poor performance? (former military types may know a slightly more vulgar version with an additional adjective)
To get you prepared I?ve selected six classic wines which will ensure Christmas lunch goes off without a hitch, all presented in a wooden case Reserve yours today for £35 (the balance will be collected in December) with free delivery in early December
Start the day with a bright, crisp, fizzy aperitif. Keep it traditional and get your guests in the mood with a bottle of Champagne Paul Langier Cham pagne NV, AOC Cham pagne (1) is a real 1 2 3
crowd pleaser and the pop of the cork will let everyone know that the party has started
Whether you?re serving prawn cocktail, smoked salmon or any other light starter, Dom aine Andre Neveu ?Les Longues Fins? 2023, AOC Sancerre (4) has the freshness and acidity to work Everyone will love this classic expression of Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley
Who doesn? t love a Chablis? Fam ille Gueguen Chablis 2021, AOC Chablis (3) brings lemon, quince and touches of white flower blossom, all underpinned with a steely minerality The ideal partner to sushi, sashimi, scallop carpaccio and lots more.
The main event is more challenging, with all its varied flavours - turkey, pigs in blankets, roast potatoes, cranberry sauce, bread sauce - how do match such bold foodstuffs?
Clos du Vieux Bourg Morgon 2020, AOC Morgon (5) from the cru village of Morgon has notes of cherries and cranberries, a heavenly
combination with turkey It also has enough structure and depth to stand up to other game birds, such as goose or duck
If you have a wine connoisseur joining you for lunch, a bold, aged, Claret will gladden their heart Chât eau des Dem oiselles 2015, AOC Cast illon Côt es de Bordeaux (2) is from an excellent vintage which is just coming of age If there's any left after the main course it will pair perfectly with any hard, mature cheeses
Finally, a half bottle of Chât eau Les Minget s 2020, AOC Saut ernes (6) will draw the meal to its close A classic Bordeaux dessert wine with a balance of sweetness and acidity all rounded off with a lovely hint of marmalade 4 5 6
The Classic Christmas Day Selection
£20.99 per bottle
First Instalment £35
Second Instalment (collected early December) £90 94
TIntoxicating Stories Henry Jeffreys
here?s an episode of spoof chat show Knowing Me, Knowing Me with Alan Partridge where magician Tony Le Mesmer tells his host: ?We channel energy from within to without?. Alan replies: ?Now I?m going to try and pin you down here Can you be more specific?? Tony responds: ?I am a man who harnesses the harmony that is within us all ? Alan is not convinced: ?Hmm, now that?s more vague I want you to be more specific.?
This is how I feel talking to biodynamic producers I want to know how it works and they talk about channeling energy or the movement of the planets. Biodynamics is often billed as organic viticulture with some bells and whistles But it?s a whole lot weirder than that
It?s based on a series of lectures given by an Austrian crank called Rudolf Steiner in 1924 which were published in a book: Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture He also influenced education - hence Steiner schools - and believed that we are descended from a jelly-like race known as Lemurians He has more in common with L. Rob Hubbard the founder of Scientology than Jethro Tull (the 18th century agriculturist, not the band)
The core of Steiner?s teaching is a series of preparations to be used in the field like number 503 - chamomile blossoms stuffed into cattle intestine and buried in the ground over the winter This makes fertiliser more nitrogen resistant, apparently You have to dilute it to homeopathic quantities and then ?energise?it by stirring it in a ritual way
Got a pest problem? Steiner has the answer
He writes: ?Catch a fairly young mouse and skin it, ? but you must obtain this skin of the field-mouse at a time when Venus is in the sign of Scorpio? ?If your mouse is too young or old, it won? t work.
I?m not the only one who is sceptical: ?It's a mixture of paganism and homeopathy?, says Bob Midleton who runs Domaine les Caizergues, an organic estate in the Languedoc. He has a background in chemistry and finds it hugely frustrating As for the preparations, he thinks Steiner ?just made it up ?
Meanwhile Stuart Smith from Smith-Madrone in California has made his mission to expose Steiner?s teaching on his blog, the aptly named ?Biodynamics is a Hoax?
Midleton thinks the reason so many highly-regarded producers follow Steiner?s teaching is ?pure marketing ? Biodynamics can be a lucrative business In order to get certification you have to pay a percentage of your income to Demeter
Caro Feely who farms biodynamically near Bergerac has parted ways with the regulatory body explaining: ?the Demeter certification fee was a percentage of sales across everythingincluding the renting of holiday accommodation? ?
Nevertheless, Feely still thinks that Steiner?s teachings are effective: ?Biodynamics offered a practical point solution to disease but over time it delivered much more? ?Mark Walford from Le Soula in Roussillon which converted to biodynamics in 2011 describes how the soil in a biodynamic vineyard has more invertebratesit?s teeming with life He also describes how the wines need less sulphur because they are naturally full of ?energy?
What?s not clear is how spraying what is essentially water on the field leads to these outcomes Ben Walgate who farmed biodynamically at Tillingham in Sussex is
pragmatic about biodynamics: ?most people do the practice because they have to. It works but not for the reason they think ?
Biodynamics celebrates its 100th anniversary this year and in some ways our world looks a lot like Steiner?s Europe is at war, great empires are in decline and old certainties are being questioned People are looking for something to believe in, even if it sounds absolutely batshit crazy I understand the biodynamic impulse I just don? t understand why Guardian-reading, follow-the-science, evidence-based people can shrug their shoulders and accept what is essentially a religion in a way they wouldn? t if a priest came out and shook holy water on the vines
Yet despite my scepticism, why do my ears prick up when I learn that a producer is biodynamic? Because it?s a good way of signalling obsession You don't have to be biodynamic to make superb wine, but following biodynamic principles means that you do have to get to know your vineyard very well I just wish it didn't come with all the mumbo jumbo
Henry's Wine of the Season
Clos du Vieux Bourg
Dominique Piron is one of the most reliable names in Beaujolais. I've drunk lots of Piron wines over the years from the Beaujolais-Villages to various Morgons and I have never tasted one that has been less than excellent.
Let's meet
up!
Come and find us at one of these upcoming events
19 & 20 SEP, BIDEFORD Appledore Book Festival
Join Susy Atkins for tutored wine tasting in the Waterstones tent
Tickets £28 www.appledorebookfestival.co.uk
27 & 28 SEP, OXFORD
The Oxford Wine Festival
Fabulous, mouthwatering wines in relaxed and friendly surroundings
Tickets £23 50 www oxfordwinefestival org
5 & 6 OCT, EXETER
Powderham Food Festival
Showcasing the region?s best food and drink producers
Tickets £5 www.powderhamfoodfestival.com
25 & 27 OCT, DARTMOUTH
Dartmouth Food Festival
Come and enjoy wine seminars at the Yatch Club over the weekend
Tickets £20 www dartmouthfoodfestival com
8 & 9 NOV, MANCHESTER 22 & 23 NOV, LONDON
Three Wine Men
Big Christmas Wine Fest
Join Oz Clarke, Olly Smith and Tim Aitken for a festive treat Enjoy a walk around tasting and tutored masterclasses.
Tickets £39 threewinemen co uk
£65.99 £54.99
