Wickhams Christmas Gift Guide 2024

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Chr istmas 20 24

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Gif t Guide

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the ultimate

Chr istmas W ine Gif ting Guide Whether you're sharing a special vintage, gifting a bottle as a thank you or seeking the perfect present for a host, there?s no better gift than a beautifully chosen bottle of wine. But with so many wines to choose from ? and so many subjective opinions ? what should you buy for loved ones at this time of year?

Rebecca Pit cair n offers some top tips for choosing the perfect bottle for the festive season.

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Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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W hy gif t w ine at Chr istmas?

It?s thoughtful?

Wine is more than just a drink ? it represents celebration and good times. The right bottle can carry deep meaning, especially when chosen thoughtfully. It can be personal, luxurious and heartfelt and it will undoubtedly be received better than a pair of socks!

RRP £90 £

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Classic W ine Mixed Case A mixed hamper of wines from the classic regions of France. The ideal gift to yourself or anyone that likes a good drop.

With a history which stretches back beyond Roman times the French have learnt a thing or two about wine making, and without getting too dewy-eyed, we think you can taste some of that history and romance in every bottle.

This case includes one bottle each of Picpoul, Chablis, Viognier, Côtes du Rhône, Pays d'Oc, and Claret.

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From colleagues to close family members, wine is a gift that can be tailored to suit a wide range of relationships. A fine vintage is ideal for a long-time friend or partner, while a playful sparkling or off-beat wine makes a great office Secret Santa.

It?s timeless?

Wine can be enjoyed immediately or saved for a special occasion in the future. Depending on the wine, recipients can open the bottle with friends and family this Christmas or savour the experience in months or years to come.

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Rioja Gif t Set

Por tuguese Lover s Gif t Set

Côtes du Rhône Gif t Set

Wine has been made at Hacienda el Ternero since 1077, a heritage the winery is proud of. Unlike most Rioja (which is matured in American oak), this winery choose to age their wine in new and 2nd year French oak for a softer, more approachable style.

For claret lovers look no further than our Luxury Claret Gift Set. Containing one bottle each of Château Bechereau and Château des Demoiselles presented in a luxury clasped, silk-lined, wooden presentation case.

The Rhône is known as "La Capitale des Amoureux" - "The Capital of Lovers"; so it's no wonder that we lust after their wines. And whoever receives this beautiful gift set, two French wines presented in a wooden case, will be enamoured with you.

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Gif t Guide

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How to choose the r ight bottle for the r ight per son...

Selecting the right wine gift can be tricky, but a little thoughtfulness goes a long way so have a think about that person and what they might like, as well as why and when they might open the bottle.

PF Sauvignon Blanc 20 21 WO Stellenbosch

Fresh guava, passion fruit and green apple

£16.20 Any 6 mix | £18.0 0 Single

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W hat w ine do they like?

Do they prefer red, white, or rosé? Are they into full-bodied, bold wines or do they lean towards light, crisp varietals? If you know their tastes, it?s easy to find something they?ll love. If not, you can?t go wrong with a classic crowd-pleaser. A Sauvignon Blanc like PF Sau vign on Blan c 2021 (1) from South Africa, is a great all-rounder, while a Beaujolais, such as Dom ain e de Fou r n elles Côt e de Br ou illy 2022 (2), with its soft, approachable tannins will charm the most delicate of palates.

Domaine des Four nelles Côte de Br ouilly 20 22 AOC Côte de Brouilly

Elegant and crunchy to charm every palate.

£17.10 Any 6 mix | £19.0 0 Single

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W hat occasion is it for ?

Yes, you?re gifting wine for Christmas but consider the context in which the recipient might open the bottle. A sparkling wine is great for a celebration or drinks with friends, a bold red for a romantic night in by the fire and an aromatic white makes for a great foodie wine.

Domaine Michel Magnien "Mogottes" 20 19 AOC Marsannay

A unique and rare wine from Mogottes monopole

£52.20 Any 6 mix | £58.0 0 Single

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W hat is their per sonality like?

If they?re a connoisseur, they might appreciate a bottle from a winemaker that uses interesting wine techniques, such as Dom ain e M ich el M agn ien , M ar san n ay " M ogot t es" 2019 (3) from Burgundy, which is matured in clay jars, oak barrels, and terracotta amphorae. A more casual wine drinker might enjoy a popular brand or an easy-going wine that?s perfect for entertaining, such as Sh ar ph am Dar t Valley Reser ve 2023 (4), from Devon. For the adventurous type, try giving them a wine from a lesser-known region ? perhaps a Portuguese red blend such as Qu in t a de Foz de Ar ou ce Red 2020 (5), from the Beira Atlântico region.

Shar pham Dar t Valley Reser ve 20 23 Devon, England

White peach, sweet apricot and a subtle spice.

£14.85 Any 6 mix | £16.50 Single

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Qunita Foz de Ar ouce Red 20 20 IGP Beira Atlântico

Concentrated notes of red berry fruits and resin.

£19.80 Any 6 mix | £22.0 0 Single

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Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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Say it w ith spar kles...

Champagne Fizz is synonymous with the festive season, after all, there aren?t many days when it?s acceptable to drink Champagne for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. A bottle of Champagne is an instantly recognised and generous gift.

English Spar kling W ine English sparkling wine is giving

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Champagne a run for its money ? thanks to our similar geology and climate. A local fizz, made using the traditional Champagne method, makes for a thoughtful present.

traditional Champagne method and often use indigenous grapes.

Cr émant For free thinking friends choose Crémant over Champagne. It has all the elegance of its better known sibling, it's made in the same way, and often with the same grapes but it's less obvious, one for those in the know.

Other Classic Spar kler s Drift a little further off the beaten track and impress friends with Cava from Spain, or Alta Langa from Italy. Both are made using the

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6. Champagne Gér in et Fils Blanc de Blancs Seduces with its freshness and notes of white fruits and flowers.

£45 Any 6 mix | £50 Single 7. Huxbear Classic Spar kling 20 18 Fresh green apple and hints of biscuit. Exceptional value.

£24.75 Any 6 mix | £27.50 Single

8. Henner s Br ut Rosé NV Classic English red fruit flavours including raspberries, redcurrants and rhubarb.

£39.15 Any 6 mix | £43.50 Single 9. Famille Gueguen Cr émant de Bour gogne Blanc de Noir s Notes of pear, apple, and almonds, with floral and spicy touches.

£23.85 Any 6 mix | £26.50 Single

10 . Gr an Ducay Br ut Natur e Cava Light floral notes, citrus, ripe white peach, pineapple with a nutty finish.

£11.25 Any 6 mix | £12.50 Single 11. Gir ibaldi Alta Langa Pas Dose' Riser va 20 15 Bursts on to the palate with crisp, dry lemon. Elegance and grace come with classic pastry notes.

£35.0 0 Any 6 mix | £31.50 Single

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Chr istmas Clar et

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the char m of

Clar et at Chr istmas Hen r y Jef f r eys explores our enduring love affair with Bordeaux at Christmas

In our family Christmas was always the time to enjoy a nice spot of claret, though my grandfather didn?t always get it right. I remember him turning up in the late 1990s with a bottle of Mouton Cadet 1982 (RRP at the time around £5) that he had been saving for a special occasion. So he might not have known a lot about wine but he did know that it had to be Bordeaux at Christmas.

But nowadays the hegemony of claret has been challenged on one hand by its old rival Burgundy and on the other by stronger wines from the Rhone or the New World. It?s thought that these sweeter tasting reds go better with the bird, the ham, sprouts and redcurrant jelly than dry old Bordeaux.

It?s not just at the Christmas table, however, Bordeaux is decidedly out of fashion everywhere. Wine lovers have decamped in spirit if not in practise to Burgundy. Pinot Noir is the grape de jour. Talk to winemakers from Spain to Australia and they will tell you that they are inspired by Burgundy - even if they?re working with Grenache or Cinsault. The Burgundian

philosophy of small parcels, gnarly-handed vignerons, and tiny production is the in thing.

Bordeaux in contrast seems stuffy and patrician with all those pompous chateaux and grand estates turning out hundreds of thousands of bottles. This isn?t helped by the owners who dress in immaculate tweeds from Cordings in Piccadilly and shirts from Jermyn Street.

Not very natural wine. Meanwhile the stereotypical claret customers are City boys in pin-striped suits.

At the top end, the first growths like Lafite and Latour, while still fabulously expensive have been eclipsed on the investment market by Champagne, Barolo and in particular Burgundy.

A Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos St Jacques from Armand Rousseau that would have cost you £50 twenty years ago will now be closer to £2,000. That?s for one bottle.

This demand for these highly limited production wines has increased prices right across Burgundy as people trade down to more affordable bottles. But while Burgundy is scarce, Bordeaux isn?t, so the boom

Ever yday Clar et

Good Mid-Range Clar et

Château Buisson-Redon 20 21

Château des Demoiselles 20 15 Château Becher eau 20 19

AOC Bordeaux

AOC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

AOC Lalande de Pomerol

Honest right bank claret. Lovely ripe cassis fruit and plenty of it with some warm wood spice, and cigar box. Very approachable. The palate is medium-bodied and structured with round, warm fruit and a velvety finish.

On the nose there are delicate red fruit aromas with a touch of rich vanilla creaminess. This character follows through to the palate where the lusty flavours are held together by velvety tannins and a nicely rounded finish.

Half of this full-bodied claret is fermented in stainless steel before ageing in barrels for 12 months, the other half is fermented in oak. This combination creates a balance of black fruits, toasty notes and sweet spice.

£12.15 Any 6 mix | £13.50 Single

£15.75 Any 6 mix | £17.50 Single

£16.99 Any 6 mix | £18.88 Single

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Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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Gr and Cr u Classe de Gr aves at the top hasn?t touched the lesser chateaux.

Allowing for inflation, the price of good quality Cru Bourgeois like Ch ât eau Lilian Ladou ys or Ch ât eau Car can ieu x has changed very little in the past 20 years.

As well as being expensive, Burgundy is still, despite vast improvements in viticulture, winemaking and global warming, unreliable. At best for under £30 a bottle you?ll get something fruity and fun, or more likely it?ll be something thin and under-ripe. Burgundy can be tricky to age, too. I?ve had wines that taste nice young and then go into their shell for ten years or more. Dumb doesn?t begin to describe it. Nobody wants a sulky Burgundy at Christmas - how do you explain that to your guests?

In contrast, buy a good Cru Bourgeois, a classification for the best wines of the Medoc that didn?t make it into the 1855 classification, from a good vintage like 2015, 2016, or 2019 and you?re not going to be disappointed. Decant and drink now or keep for five or ten years and you?ll have something

Château de Fieuzal 20 14 AOC Pessac-Leognan The wines of Château de Fieuzal have a distinct allure that is inseparable from the place from which they are grown.

Fieuzal has the intriguing ability to hold one?s attention, by combining flavour and feeling; the senses and the sensual.

The bouquet is pure and elegant, with a deep violet colour and bright reflections.

There are subtle notes of cherry, raspberry and forest fruits. The mouthfeel is delicate and silky with pleasant tannins and tension on the finish.

£51.75 Any 6 mix | £57.50 Single

Second W ines

Le Haut-Médoc de Haut-Bages Libér al 20 15

La Réser ve de Léoville-Bar ton 20 20

A soft and alluring style of claret which is spicy and perfumed on the nose and opulent on the palate. This is classic elegant Margaux wine with great finesse and character, with redcurrant flavours and a soft silky finish.

AOC Pauillac

AOC Saint Julien

A fine and elegant introduction to the wines of this 5th Grand Cru Classé estate. The style is fresh, fine, linear and supple, and more subtle than you might expect for such a warm year.

A classic 'left bank' nose of smoky blackberry fruit and pencil lead, the palate is rich and rounded with assertive tannins, ample fruit and well integrated oak.

£35.99 Any 6 mix | £39.99 Single

£15.75 Any 6 mix | £17.50 Single

£49.50 Any 6 mix | £55.0 0 Single

Château Paveil de Luze 20 18 AOC Margaux

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Chr istmas Clar et

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superlative as a reward for your patience.

all. Underneath that rather buttoned up exterior, claret knows how to swing.

Happy hunting grounds for good mid-range Bordeaux include lesser known bits of the Medoc like Moulis and Listrac. But even famous communes like Margaux can turn up some value like Paveil de Lu ze.

Second wines from well-known estates like Sarget de Gruaud Larose or La Reser ve de Leoville-Bar t on can also be worth trying offering some of the magic of the main label but cheaper and they mature more quickly.

So when buying wine to drink at Christmas, or any time of the year. Ignore fashion, forget about image, follow your head and go for Bordeaux. I?ll leave the last word to a great philosopher and claret lover, the late Roger Scruton who writes that after trying other wines we will always ?crawl home like a Prodigal Son and beg forgiveness for our folly. Claret extends a warm and indulgent embrace, renewing the ancient bond between English thirst and Gascon refreshment? ?

If you like the velvety merlot-heavy taste of Pomerol or St. Emilion then try lesser known right-bank communes like Lalande de Pomerol, Fronsac or Cotes-de-Castillon. Plain old AOC Bordeaux in a warm vintage like 2015, 2019 or 2020 is world away from the thin golf club clarets I remember from my youth. In fact, Bordeaux is so much riper and jollier than it was in the past. It can give the Rhone a run for its money in opulence making it good choice to accompany turkey with ?all the trimmings?. A phrase that Jonathan Meades describes as the ?three most depressing words in the English language.?

Classed Gr ow th Château Batailley 20 17 AOC Pauillac Cassis on the nose, this is polished and textured, layered with liquorice and coffee beans, with smoked, burnished oak flavours that help elongate the palate. Batailley is an extremely drinkable fifth growth Pauillac that delivers over the medium to long term, and this is an enjoyable and approachable wine

Cheaper wines from Bordeaux can and should be drunk young. Don?t be like my grandfather and keep an ordinary wine for 15 years, it?s not going to get any better. The best wines, however, do benefit from time in the cellar. In fact, a remarkable transformation can occur to even the most aloofly aristocratic claret. After five or ten years, it starts to become progressively spicier and more hedonistic. I?ve had Medocs that after 10 years in bottle start to taste like Chateau Musar from Lebanon. Mature Bordeaux doesn?t taste stuffy at

£67.50 Any 6 mix | £75.0 0 Single

Cr u Bour geois

Château Car canieux 20 15

Château Lilian Ladouys 20 19

Château Haut -Mar buzet 20 18

AOC Crus Bourgeois du Médoc

AOC Saint-Estèphe

AOC Saint-Estèphe

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Ripe cassis fruit, oak spice and a leafy note to the ripe tannins. Gently feral and showing a hint of maturity, the finish is long and spicy with a lingering, fruity core.

An abundance of tart cherry, blueberry notes, and a reassuring firmness on the palate. Quite muscular in style with good oak on the long finish. The stoney Saint-Estèphe character shines through with added richness.

Classic Bordeaux - autumnal, oaky, with aromas of black cherries and smoky coffee. A backbone of ripe, dark fruit and a proper tannic structure. The underlying style of Saint-Estèphe is evident.

£19.80 Any 6 mix | £22.0 0 Single

£34.20 Any 6 mix | £38.0 0 Single

£58.50 Any 6 mix | £65.0 0 Single

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Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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Luxur y Clar et Gif t Set For claret lovers look no further than our Luxury Claret Gift Set. Containing one bottle each of Ch ât eau Bech er eau and Ch ât eau des Dem oiselles presented in a luxury clasped, silk-lined, wooden presentation case.

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the Class of '24

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the

Class of '24 Dan Far r ell-Wr igh t reveals his favourite wines from 2024

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Famille Descombe "Pier r es Dor ées" Beaujolais Blanc 20 22 AOC Beaujolais

£17.55 Any 6 mix | £19.50 Single

Is there a wine whose siren song you cannot resist?

Languishing in the cellar its haunting beauty whispers to you, insisting on being opened.

As a wine buyer, I taste a lot of wines (a tough job I know, but this is the cross I chose to bear). I?m looking constantly for sustainable wines that offer good value and good taste. In simple terms, wines I would pour a second glass of.

There are 350 in our portfolio, all good, but inevitably some bottles shine a little brighter than others. So, here are the bottles that kept whispering to me in 2024, gently suggesting I pour a second glass?

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Beaujolais BIanc is relatively unknown outside the Beaujolais region. White wine represents just 5% of the regions output, most of which never leaves France.

My introduction came at a Beaujolais masterclass in Paris. From the first taste I was hooked, I knew this was a wine I had to bring home.

The vineyard is in the area known as Pierre Dorées (golden stones) due to the underlying bedrock: limestone. The nearby buildings, built from local stone, glow in the sunshine and remind you of Tuscany.

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The wine is made by Francois Descombe, his sister Marine and her husband Kevin. They are the fifth generation to work the vineyards, which are now certified organic and adopt agroforestry practices, In the winery, Francois fermented 50% of this wine in concrete eggs.

This produces lees stirring, bâtonnage in French, which adds a rich texture. It has subtle flavours of peach stone, white flowers, and a wonderful minerality which brings to mind the far more expensive wines of the nearby Côte Chalonnaise.

Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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PF Ruby 20 17 WO Stellenbosch

£17.99 Any 6 mix | £19.99 Single If you love claret, here's something you need to try, a blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from Peter Falke in South Africa. The quality of fruit grown in Stellenbosch is insanely good. Combine this with inspired winemaking by Werner Schrenk and you're in for a treat.

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AOC Chablis

£26.55 Any 6 mix | £29.50 Single Every year the compilers of Le Guide Hachette, aka the French wine bible, taste 35,000 wines.

This year Gueguen's La Vigne de 1975 was awarded a highly acclaimed Coup de Coeur, placing it in the judges top ten.

I can understand why.

This has all the hallmarks of a premier cru Chablis without the accompanying price tag.

Powerful, tense, silky, rich, honeyed - this is a wine that is hard to pin down, yet all the more alluring for it.

AOC Tavel

£17.55 Any 6 mix | £19.50 Single Pale Provence rosé is so 2023!

Here's the full-bodied, fullflavoured antithesis to fashionable pinks. Don't be put off by the colour, this is a dry wine with lots to offer.

This comes from opera loving Richard Maby's organic vineyards in the Southern Rhone Valley, with similar soil to neighbouring Chateauneuf du Pape. It has powerful aromas of red berries and citrus fruit.

Concentration and silky tannins make this a magnificent wine for gastronomy.

Werner has aged this wine in French oak barrels and then given it a few years to mature in bottle. Its palate of red fruits, raw cocoa and hints of cinnamon and cloves is drinking beautifully now.

Famille Gueguen "La Vigne de 1975" Chablis 20 22

Domaine Maby "Pr ima Donna" Tavel 20 23

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Domaine de Mont Joly Cuvée 85.45 20 19 AOC Beaujolais-Villages

£26.99 Any 6 mix | £29.99 Single This is not the Beaujolais- Villages you are expecting. Young winemaker JB Bechvillier has crafted something exquisite from old vine Gamay aged for 21 months in oak barrels.

The old vines are naturally low yielding giving concentrated and powerful fruit. The ageing has added layers of complexity. There are aromas of blackberries, plums, coffee and liquorice, which follow through to an intense palate. This is a wine to savour and enjoy!

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the Class of '24

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Connoisseur "Le Cheval Mar in" 20 22 IGP Côtes de Gascogne

£10 .35 Any 6 mix | £11.50 Single

This was my wine of the summer.

Ok, so maybe there was no summer, but pouring a glass of Le Cheval Marin is like pouring a glass of instant sunshine.

Winemaker Elizabeth Prataveira is an alchemist with the indigenous grapes of Gascony. This blend of Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng has layers of intrigue which belie its modest price. The palate is an elegant melange of acacia flowers, ripe peach, grapefruit and pineapple.

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River view Cr ouch Valley Pinot Noir 20 21 Devon, England

£35.55 Any 6 mix | £39.50 Single

As the driest and warmest county in England, Essex is building a reputation as the best place to grow grapes for still wines. The Crouch Valley is being touted as England's premier cru. Riverview is lauded as making the best wines in England. Victoria Moore, writing in The Telegraph, described it as, "the best English Pinot Noir."

The palate reveals delicate floral notes with lifted aromas of strawberry, red currant and cranberry. A wine destined to be paired with Christmas lunch.

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Flor ensac Picpoul de Pinet Selection "Patience" 20 21 AOC Picpoul-de-Pinet

£17.99 Any 6 mix | £19.99 Single

Picpoul but not as we know it. This is a new style which, as the name suggests, requires patience. This has the DNA of Picpoul - zippy acidity with a sea salt kicker - but six months on lees has added texture, depth and complexity. The palate shows peaches, pears, preserved lemons and the slightest hint of bacon rind.

This is a wine that demands gastronomy - lobster thermidor, anyone?

Given time it will evolve into something sublime. Its unsurprising that it was awarded the medal for Best in Sh ow at last years Sud de France Top 100 Competition.

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Cava Par ticular Gar nacha Blanc de Noir NV DO Cava

£16.65 Any 6 mix | £18.50 Single

Cava has a bad rep of late. Regarded by much of the drinking public as a simple, cheap, and cheerful fizz informed drinkers know Cava is a traditional method sparkling wine closer to Champagne than Prosecco.

For this wine Jesús Prieto, Juan García and Javier Domeque have made a Blanc de Noir (white wine from black grapes) using 100% Garnacha. It begins with aromas of roses and raspberries. The palate is rich and creamy with notes of toasted almond, baked apple pie, soft red fruits. It ends with a long, lingering, aromatic finish.

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Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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Filar e Italia Pr osecco Extr a Dr y NV DOC Prosecco

£9.99 Any 6 mix | £11.10 Single Prosecco is not my drink of choice, prone to sweetness and a lack of flavour. This example from the banks of the Tagliamento river in Friuli is different.

As a Christmas party starter, apéritif, or even the base for a cocktail, this is perfect. The palate is a refined and elegant blend of pear, apple and acacia flowers.

Did I mention that this was a purchasing decision by Mrs F-W? As I said, refined and elegant.

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Finca Sophenia Estate Reser va Malbec 20 21 Uco Valley, Argentina

£21.15 Any 6 mix | £23.50 Single

Pub wine lists, supermarket shelves, fancy wine bars. Argentinian Malbec is everywhere.

Why? It's reliable. Full-bodied, balanced, fruity, it will never let you down.

This example from the award winning Finca Estate is a step up from the reliable everyday. Lionised by James Suckling, Tim Atkins, Robert Parker and Decanter the high altitude has delivered notes of blueberries, plums, and cherries all complimented with baking spices, cocoa and vanilla. A modern great!

Domaine Chatelain Har monie Pouillly Fumé 20 22

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AOC Pouilly Fumé

£22.95 Any 6 mix | £25.50 Single Everyone loves Sauvignon Blanc.

Often regarded as a variety from New Zealand, the original (and arguably best) expressions come from the villages lining the banks of the Loire: Sancerre, Touraine, and Pouilly-sur-Loire.

Domaine Chatelain is one of the great estates of the Loire, run by Jean-Claude Chatelain and his son Vincent. Their flinty soils give this wine a distinctive smokey note, hence fumé, alongside notes of flower blossom, herbs, and grapefruit. An ideal partner to Crottin de Chavignol goats cheese.

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Huxbear Or ange Bear 20 21 Devon, England

£15.30 Any 6 mix | £17.0 0 Single

As a style orange wine is increasingly popular and features here in my vain bid to appear both cool and relevant - oh, it's also utterly delicious.

It is a wine made from white grapes, not oranges, which has enjoyed extra time on the grape skins. This skin contact imparts tannin, texture, and flavour. The robust palate has notes of stone fruit (think peach and nectarine) with a touch of vanilla. Ideally suited to salty Christmas snack foods like crisps, salted nuts, and pretzels.

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Por t

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Por t: to ever y thing ther e is a season?

Hen r y Jef f r eys knows there's no better way of keeping the winter cold out than a small glass of port in the evening.

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Imagine in the days before central heating how comforting port would have been. The funny thing is that when it first started to be shipped to England, nobody liked port very much. It was originally brought in as a replacement for claret which the government was taxing heavily due to England being at war with France. A substitute was found from our oldest ally, Portugal. A thin red from Oporto - a city with a damp climate - which was closer to vinegar than wine by the time it reached England. No wonder there was a poem by Richard Ames that describes the new wine as ?spiritless and flat? and ends: ?but fetch us a glass of any sort, Navarre, Galicia, anything but port.?

Things im proved when enterprising merchants began searching the Douro Valley, where the summers were baking hot and dry. Nowadays there?s a charming little train you can take but in 18th century it was a major expedition taking weeks through rugged mountains braving bandits and wolves. Com ing back was even more dangerous, casks were mounted on little boats which had to navigate treacherous rapids.

It was worth it, however, because the wine was much more to English tastes, strong and dark - a kind of proto-port had arrived.

Kr ohn Vintage 20 0 3 Coming from Krohn, a port house more famous for its wood-aged tawnies, makes this quite special. The floral spicy nose, has a haunting Turkish delight fragrance. It's drinking beautifully now.

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Though it was often fortified these early wines would have been largely dry. The turning point came with the 1820 vintage which was so full of sugar that it didn?t ferment properly leaving the wines sweet. It was such a sensation that winemakers began routinely adding brandy during fermentation to stop the yeasts and to make something like the sweet port we now know.

The other milestone was the discovery of how well port aged in bottle. If you were a local squire you might buy a pipe (145 gallons/ 550 litres) and get your butler to bottle and bin it in the cellar. It was noticed that this sweet, powerfully tannic wine mellowed into something sublime. Port inveigled its way into British culture like no other wine. Writer, gourmand and

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Chr istmas Guide 20 24

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grandfather to Tom Parker- Bowles, P. Morten Shand wrote: ?A properly matured port is rightly considered unequalled as the test of the pretensions of a county family to proper pride, patient manly endurance, Christian self-denial, and true British tenacity.?

Too bloody right! There is no finer wine, in my opinion, than a long-aged vintage port. At one point these wines commanded the same prices as first growth claret but port is no longer fashionable. Which is great for the customer. Prices have barely shifted in 20 years meaning that you can buy mature vintage port for £50-£75 a bottle. Not expensive for wines of this quality. Just remember to stand the bottle up for a day or two before serving and decant off the sediment - you?ll probably lose about a glassful.

Quinta de Val da Figueir a 10 Year Old Taw ny A superb aged tawny is the most elegant, quality port one can buy and, as a result of its long ageing in barrel, it keeps better than vintage port once the bottle is opened. One of the very finest 10 year old Tawnys in the Douro. It is amber in colour and is rich, smooth and aromatic. There are spicy aromas with underlying tones of figs and nuts.

£33.55 Any 6 mix | £37.50 Single

As well as ?proper ?vintage wines, port houses offer second labels from a specific year usually from a single quinta (estate). These have the advantage of being much cheaper and mature faster than the vintage releases. Again these will need decanting.

Don?t overlook LBV (late bottled vintage) port wines from a single year which are aged for around six years in wooden vats and then bottled. The quality is increasingly high, offering proper vintage character at a fraction of the price. If you have the patience LBVs will also improve from cellaring. They start out bold and pungent but can develop that red fruit and baking spice note that I love in an old vintage port.

My wife?s favourite, however, is tawny port. These are aged in oak pipes which aren?t filled right to the top. Consequently the wines mature with oxygen contact developing quite different flavours to bottleaged wines. Think cherry jam, walnuts and orange peel with an acidic tang to balance out the high sugar content. These don?t need decanting and they taste best lightly chilled. Whereas a vintage port should be drunk within four or five days of opening, a tawny will last for weeks or even months. Though they tend to last about a night in our house.

And what to eat with port? Stilton is the classic option but hard cheeses like Comte and cheddar work brilliantly, too. I find chilled tawnies have an affinity for salty cured meats like jamon Iberico or sauscisson sec. And there?s nothing better with bitter dark chocolate than a young vintage port. So here?s to cold weather and another glorious port season!

Kr ohn LBV 20 17 Deep ruby colour with spicy black fruit aromas. The palate has vibrant plum and blackberry characters layered with more spice, fresh acidity and firm tannins.

A full and rich style with impressive length.

Perfect with blue cheeses, a decent mature cheddar or a slab of dark chocolate.

£19.80 Any 6 mix | £22.0 0 Single

Kr ohn Lágr ima W hite Por t Lágrima (meaning 'angels tears') is the sweetest style of white Port. An intense yet elegant sweet wine with notes of caramel, honey, and nut - all balanced by fresh acidity and leading to a long and appealing finish.

Drink chilled as an aperitif, or with fruity desserts. It has been filtered, so won't need decanting - once opened it should 'keep' and be enjoyable for a few weeks.

£18.0 0 Any 6 mix | £20 .0 0 Single

order now at w ick h am w in e.co.u k or call 01803 467547

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Dan Farrell- Wright's

Classic Chr istmas Day Selection I'm unabashedly traditional when it comes to Christmas. I want wines that are celebratory and instantly recognisable - think Champagne, Chablis, Sancerre, Claret, Morgon and Sauternes. Th e Classic Ch r ist m as Day Select ion has all the favourites to ensure Christmas lunch goes off without a hitch!

RRP £ 151.0 0

£

126 .0 0

How to or der fr om W ickhams last date for delivery in time for Christmas is 22 December

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