WE LOVE BUDAPEST POCKET GUIDE WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

FOOD FOOD SPAS SPAS BARS BARS CHRISTMAS MARKETS CHRISTMAS MARKETS

W I N T E R-S P R I N G

2 0 1 8 -2 0 1 9 W I N T E R-S P R I N G / 2 0 1 8 -2 0 1 9

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INTRODUCTION Winter sees Budapest at its most magical. Christmas markets set up around the city, its grand avenues are garlanded with fairy lights and audiences fill historic concert halls. While bathers bask in the rising steam and falling snowflakes at ornate open-air spas, at Budapest’s famed ruin bars, revellers shift indoors. Others gather on panoramic terraces transformed for the season. Goose and game await diners at Michelin-starred destinations. At We Love Budapest, we strive to provide the best insider tips to make your visit memorable, for the first-timer or the veteran. Culture, cuisine, bars and spas, we cover the city from top to toe. Welcome to Budapest – and welcome to We Love Budapest! www.welovebudapest.com/en

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HUNGARY

BUDAPEST

Attracting a record ten million guest stays in 2017, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Winter sees the city transformed by Christmas markets and skating rinks.

With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

BALATON

Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English.

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2018-2019 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

Throughout 2018-19, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort.

Distributed free nationwide!

A We Love Budapest online magazin már hét éve szolgál friss és megbízható információkkal a főváros látnivalóiról, gasztronómiai és kulturális életéről, szabadidős programjairól. Nyomtatott kiadványában erre a tudásra alapozva ad tippeket és ötleteket a 2018–2019-es téli–tavaszi időszakra.

GASZTRÓ

INGYENES KIADVÁNY

TÚRÁK

PROGRAMO K

térképpel

2 0 1 8 –2 0 1 9 / T É L –TAVA S Z 2 0 1 8 –2 0 1 9 / T É L –TAVA S Z

CUSTOM PUBLISHING Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION Useful information ...................................................................................................10 Budapest by district .................................................................................................14 Top 10 don’t miss ......................................................................................................16 Budapest in 1 day ...................................................................................................... 18 Budapest in 2 days .................................................................................................. 20 Budapest with kids ...................................................................................................22

SIGHTS & TOURS (24-37) 5 bridges essential for sightseeing .................................................................... 26 5 hidden Budapest gems ...................................................................................... 28 Explainer – All aboard for Christmas ................................................................ 30 3 statues honouring Hungary’s 1956 Revolution ...........................................32 3 Jewish memorials to visit ...................................................................................33 5 best escape rooms ............................................................................................... 34 7 remarkable Art Nouveau attractions ..............................................................36

DINING & STREET FOOD (38-59) 7 best breakfast places ..........................................................................................40 3 classic restaurants for Hungarian cuisine .................................................... 42 3 new-wave Hungarian restaurants .................................................................. 43 5 cosy cafés for a winter warm-up ....................................................................44 Interview – Chef Eszter Palágyi ..........................................................................46 5 fine-dining restaurants cited by Michelin ................................................... 48 5 confectioneries to spoil yourself .................................................................... 50 3 street-food spots best after dark .....................................................................52 3 classic coffeehouses echoing the Belle Époque ..........................................53 10 exciting ethnic eateries .................................................................................... 54 5 best vegan/vegetarian eateries ...................................................................... 56 5 classic Hungarian delights at Christmas markets ..................................... 58

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CONTENTS

ART & CULTURE (60-75) 5 murals revealing Hungarian history .............................................................. 62 5 art-house cinemas for English-friendly films ............................................ 64 3 attractions for photography buffs .................................................................. 66 3 concert halls for classical music .......................................................................67 Interview – Choreographer Bence Vági ........................................................... 68 10 great Hungarian discoveries ........................................................................... 70 5 theatres for English-friendly drama ...............................................................72 7 most compelling exhibitions .............................................................................74

SPAS & SPORT (76-87) 3 top running tracks .................................................................................................78 3 seasonal hikes ........................................................................................................79 Explainer – City of spas .........................................................................................80 5 deluxe hotel spas open to all ........................................................................... 82 10 destinations for winter sports ....................................................................... 84 5 top spas for winter .............................................................................................. 86

SHOPS & MARKETS (88-103) 5 best streets for browsing ..................................................................................90 5 sites for splendid Christmas markets ............................................................ 92 3 delis selling Hungarian delights ......................................................................94 3 boutiques selling handmade chocolates ..................................................... 95 5 unique Budapest souvenirs .............................................................................. 96 Explainer: Searching for retro treasure ............................................................ 98 3 friendly farmers’ markets ................................................................................100 3 historic market halls .......................................................................................... 101 5 boutiques for Hungarian design ....................................................................102

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CONTENTS

BARS & NIGHTLIFE (104-123) 5 perfect ruin pubs for a bar crawl .................................................................. 106 5 panoramic seasonal drinking spots ............................................................. 108 Explainer: A spirit for every occasion .............................................................. 110 3 bars for watching sport ......................................................................................112 3 wine bars for romantic rendezvous ...............................................................113 10 great gigs to look out for ................................................................................ 114 7 best bars for seasonal cocktails ...................................................................... 116 5 best ways to ring in 2019 ...................................................................................118 5 best party spots ...................................................................................................120 5 best bars for craft beer ......................................................................................122

THE DANUBE BEND (124-151) The Danube Bend map .........................................................................................126 5 best sights and attractions ...............................................................................128 Explainer: The mysterious mummies of Vác ................................................130 5 top dining destinations ..................................................................................... 132 5 cool cafés and confectioneries .......................................................................134 Esztergom ..................................................................................................................136 7 great things to discover in Esztergom ..........................................................138 Szentendre ............................................................................................................... 140 7 great things to discover in Szentendre ........................................................142 Vác .............................................................................................................................. 144 7 great things to discover in Esztergom ......................................................... 146 Visegrád .....................................................................................................................148 7 great things to discover in Visegrád .............................................................150

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INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST is the capital of Hungary. Visitors from the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days.

The Hungarian currency is the forint.

Currently, there are 325 forints to €1, 365 forints to £1 and 280 forints to $1.

A beer costs about 650 forints/€2.

Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter.

Most service staff speak English.

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INTRODUCTION

FROM THE AIRPORT Your flight to Budapest Airport (bud.hu) will arrive into terminals 2A or 2B in adjacent buildings. Terminal 1 is closed.

Exiting terminal 2, you see a line of people waiting by the taxi kiosk.

Taxis are run by Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu), the official service for the airport.

To reach central Budapest, Főtaxi charges about 7,500 forints (€23).

Past the taxi booth, a crowd will be milling around a bus stop.

Alongside, a ticket machine, with an English-language option, accepts cash (in forints) and credit cards, and gives change.

The two buses here require different tickets. Swifter but less frequent 100E requires a 900-forint (€2.80) ticket – look out for the aeroplane logo on the machine. This runs every 30 minutes into the city centre, calling at Kálvin tér, Astoria and Deák tér. The last bus sets off at 1:20am. Allow 40min to 1hr journey time.

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INTRODUCTION

If you’re travelling to the airport from town early in the morning, the first 100E bus leaves Deák tér at 3.40am, calling at Astoria and Kálvin tér shortly afterwards.

The other airport bus stop is for the 200E, running every 7 minutes to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (journey time 25min).

This is on blue metro line M3, currently under repair and served by replacement buses at weekends and after 8.35pm weekdays.

The 200E bus requires a standard BKK transport ticket (350 HUF/€1.10), as does the onward journey from metro station to town.

The Airport Shuttle provided by miniBUD (minibud.hu) is a door-todoor transfer service. For 1 person, it costs 4,400 forints/€13.55 into the centre – for 2, it makes more sense to get a taxi.

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INTRODUCTION

AROUND THE CITY Budapest has four metro lines, and an efficient and extensive network of trams, buses, night buses and trolleybuses, overseen by BKK. Nearly all locations around the city are close to a stop or station of some kind, with a reliable timetable clearly visible. The same tickets are valid for each of these forms of transport, including night buses, 350 forints/€1.10 for 1, 3,000 forints/€9.25 for ten. Stamp once you enter the metro station or board. Buying a ticket from the driver costs 450 forints/€1.40.

There are passes for 24hrs, 72hrs, and so on. Other forms of transport, including boats, may require different tickets – check with bkk.hu.

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INTRODUCTION

DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK

PEST BUDA DISTRICT V DISTRICT I

DISTRICT VII

DISTRICT VIII

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INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST

BY DISTRICT DISTRICT I Best accessed by funicular from Clark Ádám tér at Chain Bridge, the Castle District offers tourist sights and panoramic views amid cobbled streets. Buda Castle, Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias Church DISTRICT V Downtown Budapest features the showcase street of Váci utca, parallel to the elegant tram-lined Danube bank.

Between Parliament and the Basilica lies the business quarter.

Parliament, Basilica, tram 2 DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK The grand boulevard of Andrássy út passes the Opera and the city’s theatre district on its way up to Heroes’ Square and the City Park beyond. Széchenyi Baths, House of Terror, Heroes’ Square DISTRICT VII Budapest’s revived Jewish Quarter is the city’s party hub, typified by the thronging Gozsdu Udvar passageway and numerous ruin bars. Great Synagogue, Gozsdu Udvar, ruin bars DISTRICT VIII Discerning locals do their drinking in this slightly edgier zone, with a student buzz in the Palace Quarter behind the National Museum. National Museum, Keleti station, Kerepesi cemetery

FOLD-OUT MAP In the back of this book you’ll find a fold-out map. Each of our recommended destinations has been marked with a circled reference point 1A This pinpoints its location on the fold-out map.

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Basilica

INTRODUCTION

TOP 10 DON’T MISS 1A BASILICA Named after Hungary’s patron saint and first king Stephen, this ornate church contains the holy relic of his preserved right hand. A lift provides access to the dome.

District V. Szent István tér 1. bazilika.biz 1B BUDA CASTLE Crowning Castle Hill, this sprawling palace houses the National Gallery and library. Close by, Fishermen’s Bastion provides a fine panorama from its lookout towers.

District I. Szent György tér/ Szentháromság tér

DANUBE AND BRIDGES The river and its elegant bridges define Budapest, best viewed by boat. Chain Bridge, the first of its kind and the most iconic, is soon to close for long-term repair.

1C GREAT SYNAGOGUE Budapest’s splendid Great Synagogue is the second largest Jewish house of worship in the world. Head out to the garden to admire the touching Holocaust memorial, the Tree of Life. District VII. Dohány utca 2. dohany-zsinagoga.hu

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INTRODUCTION

1D HEROES’ SQUARE Flanked by two stately galleries, Heroes’ Square features a half-moon colonnade of statues, 14 emblematic figures from Hungarian history and seven Magyar chieftains. District XIV. Hősök tere

HISTORIC SPAS A visit to Budapest’s famed baths is a relaxing way to spend the day in healing waters and a history lesson in one, the Rudas and Király showing their Ottoman heritage. spasbudapest.com 1E HOUSE OF TERROR In the very house where victims were held, interrogated and tortured, this striking exhibition shows the brutality of the Nazi and Communist regimes over 45 years.

District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu 1F PARLIAMENT Take a tour of the stunning neo-Gothic Parliament, one of the city’s finest architectural landmarks, 96 metres tall and built for the 1896 millennial celebrations. District V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. latogatokozpont. parlament.hu

RUIN BARS Take an abandoned building with crumbling walls, skipfound décor, a hipster vibe and sprinkle it with a touch of trash. Voilà, a ruin pub. Most are found around District VII. romkocsmak.hu 1G TRAM 2 A panoramic sightseeing tour of its own, this signature yellow streetcar follows the Pest embankment while showcasing Parliament and the spectacular landmarks of Buda. bkk.hu

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INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST IN 1 DAY 2A CHAIN BRIDGE Your tour can start at the iconic Chain Bridge, the first permanent span between Buda and Pest completed

by Scot Adam Clark in 1849 before the capital merged in 1873.

2B FUNICULAR Gracefully constructed wooden cars provide a panoramic link and short cut from the Buda foot of the Chain Bridge to the hilltop Castle District.

Single ticket 1,200 HUF. District I. Clark Ádám tér. bkk.hu 2C BUDA CASTLE Follow the cobblestoned lanes interlacing this medieval-style district to visit major landmarks, such as Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias Church and the National Gallery.

2D BASILICA From the Castle District, bus 16 takes you close to St Stephen’s Basilica, home to a vast pipe organ, stained-glass windows and the holy right hand of King Stephen I. District V. Szent István tér 1. bazilika.biz

MURALS Along District VII streets such as Rumbach Sebestyén utca and Kazinczy utca, vast murals cover entire walls of buildings, presenting aspects of Hungarian history or culture.

2E GREAT SYNAGOGUE Still in District VII, the monumental Synagogue is the heart of Hungary’s Jewish community. This Moorish-style landmark can be visited individually or by guided tour.

District VII. Dohány utca 2. dohany-zsinagoga.hu

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Buda Castle

INTRODUCTION

2F PARLIAMENT From Astoria, take metro 2 to Kossuth tér crowned by the Gothic-style Parliament. A guided tour allows you to admire its ornate interior and the Holy Crown of Hungary.

District V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. latogatokozpont.parlament.hu 2G BOAT TOUR Embark on a waterborne adventure on the Danube, taking in sweeping vistas and the city’s divergent sides lined with beautiful landmarks. Most tours start at Vigadó tér.

2H DUNA KORZÓ Once back ashore, a stroll or Tram 2 journey along the Danube bank reveals top-tier hotels, deluxe dining destinations and the ornate, recently renovated Pesti Vigadó.

RUIN BARS Cross Deák tér to head over to District VII and its ruin-bar scene, typified by Szimpla Kert on Kazinczy utca.

Nearby Gozsdu Udvar is lined with bars and nightspots.

District VII. romkocsmak.hu WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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Heroes’ Square

INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST IN 2 DAYS 3A ANDRÁSSY ÚT Stroll along Budapest’s showcase boulevard, treelined Andrássy, taking in the Opera House, high-end boutiques and elegant coffeehouses. Below runs vintage metro line 1. District VI 3B HOUSE OF TERROR A short hop up Andrássy, the House of Terror occupies the same building where political prisoners were tortured by brutal régimes. A chilling but gripping attraction. District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu 3C HEROES’ SQUARE A longer stroll or metro ride up Andrássy brings you to Heroes’ Square, its colonnade, figure of the Archangel Gabriel and stately art galleries on either side. District XIV. Hősök tere 3D MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Reopened in the autumn of 2018 after a major rebuild, this grand institution now displays more Hungarian art and has a show of Da Vinci drawings for the new season.

District XIV. Dózsa György út 41. szepmuveszeti.hu

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3E GUNDEL This renowned restaurant is where visiting VIPs pay top dollar for Magyar classics. New head chef Zsolt Litauszki now brings contemporary global influences to the table. District XIV. Gundel Károly út 4. gundel.hu 3F CITY PARK With a lake and ice rink, fake historic castle, sundry statuary and snack stalls a-plenty, plus rolling greenery, the City Park is perfect for post-lunch perambulation. District XIV 3G BUDAPEST ZOO While animals remain the main attraction, the zoo is also an architectural delight, the likes of Károly Kós adding Art Nouveau touches to the complex in the early 1900s. District XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12. zoobudapest.com 3H GELLÉRT BATHS Take the yellow metro, then tram 47/49 and you can soak at the Gellért, an Art Nouveau treasure at the hotel of the same name, celebrating its centenary in 2018. District XI. Kelenhegyi út 4. gellertfurdo.hu 3I CITADELLA Atop Gellért Hill, crowned by a statue of Lady Liberty, Citadella is a fortress built by the Habsburgs after the 1848 Revolution.

Unbeatable views are its main attraction. District XI. Citadella sétány 3J A38 SHIP Budapest’s prime live-music and party destination, the unique A38 Ship hosts non-mainstream acts and DJs aboard a sturdy Ukrainian cargo vessel moored by Petőfi Bridge.

District XI. Petőfi híd budai hídfő. a38.hu

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INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST WITH KIDS 4A AQUAWORLD One of the largest aquaparks in Central Europe, Aquaworld comprises 15 fun pools, 11 slides and a sauna, alongside a family-friendly hotel with its own spa facilities. District IV. Íves út 16. aquaworldresort.hu 4B BUDAPEST ZOO You can time your visit here around feeding times, perhaps popping into the Once Upon a Time Castle fairy-tale attraction and petting zoo recently opened next door. District XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12. zoobudapest.com 4C CHAIRLIFT Be lifted over the Buda Hills in a two-person gondola, panoramic views spreading wider around you. Ahead is the Elizabeth Lookout Tower, an even higher vantage point.

District XII. Zugligeti út 97. facebook.com/libego 4D CHILDREN’S RAILWAY Driven by a grown-up, staffed by kids, the famed Children’s Railway runs through the Buda Hills, enthusiastically whistled and signalled at each station by young guards. District II. Hűvösvölgy. gyermekvasut.hu 4E CSOPA At a larger location in Óbuda, the rebranded CsoPa, aka Palace of Wonders, offers a world of discovery with interactive exhibitions, optical illusions and a 9D cinema. District III. Bécsi út 38. csopa.hu 4F CYBERJUMP Atop the Új Buda Center, Cyberjump allows kids to bounce around to their heart’s content for one- and two-hour time slots. Also on-site are dodgeball and sponge pits.

District XI. Hengermalom út 19-21. cyberjump.hu

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INTRODUCTION

4G FUTURE PARK Also known as the Andrássy Entertainment Centre after its prime location, this interactive wonderland fills a former department store with fun, educational games.

District VI. Andrássy út 39. andrassyelmenykozpont.hu 4H GELLÉRT HILL PLAYGROUND Renovated and reopened, the playground on the nearest slope of Gellért Hill to the hotel of the same name is brimming with slides, a climbing fort and a jungle gym.

District XI. Gellért-hegy 4I MINIVERSUM In this miniature universe, 5,000 figures are dotted around 600 buildings in 14 tiny towns in Budapest and Central Europe, interlinked by 1,300 metres of rail track. District VI. Andrássy út 12. miniversum.hu

Aquaworld

4J TROPICARIUM Sharks, alligators and exotic birds await at this exotic attraction in south Buda. You can stroke rays and stand in tropical rain. Shark feeding is 3pm on Thursdays. District XXII. Nagytétényi út. tropicarium.hu

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SIGHTS & TOURS There are so many sights to see in Budapest – and so many ways to see them. As part of its winter magic, the city lays on themed trams at Christmas, dressing its elegant bridges and boulevards, offering seasonal cheer amid stunning architectural splendour.

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Chain Bridge

SIGHTS & TOURS

5 BRIDGES ESSENTIAL FOR SIGHTSEEING 1A CHAIN BRIDGE The first permanent span between Buda and Pest links Art Nouveau Gresham Palace with Clark Ádám tér, where a vintage funicular whisks you up to the historic sights of Buda Castle.

1B ELIZABETH BRIDGE Named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria, this white cable bridge runs from the historic Downtown Parish Church in Pest to Gellért Hill and a statue of the unfortunate namesake bishop of the same name.

1C LIBERTY BRIDGE Emperor Franz Josef nailed in the last rivet for this green bridge, connecting the iconic Great Market Hall of Pest with the century-old Gellért Baths across the Danube.

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Elizabeth Bridge

SIGHTS & TOURS

1D MARGARET BRIDGE Busy tram 4/6 carries passengers from Jászai Mari tér to Buda, stopping by Margaret Island, the city’s popular yearround recreation zone, dotted with family-friendly outdoor attractions.

Liberty Bridge

1E RÁKÓCZI BRIDGE The city’s southernmost steel bridge features the contemporary Palace of Arts and boat-shaped National Theatre on one side, and the Kopaszi-gát riverside parkland in Buda.

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Cave Church

SIGHTS & TOURS

5 HIDDEN BUDAPEST GEMS 2A CAVE CHURCH By Gellért Baths, this place of religious devotion for Hungary’s Pauline order once served as a healing haven of a hermit.

Temperature is at a consistent 20°C within. District XI. Szent Gellért tér. sziklatemplom.hu 2B HOSPITAL IN THE ROCK MUSEUM World War II and the 1956 Uprising are brought to life in a maze of hospital wards below Buda Castle, filled with life-sized wax figures portraying bleeding patients.

District I. Lovas út 4/c. sziklakorhaz.eu 2C KEREPESI CEMETERY This sylvan park serves as a final resting place for many historic Hungarians, including poet Mihály Vörösmarty and painter Károly Lotz. Group tours given in English. District VIII. Fiumei út 16-18. fiumeiutisirkert.nori.gov.hu

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Szemlő-hegyi Cave

SIGHTS & TOURS

2D PHILOSOPHERS’ GARDEN On Gellért Hill, this cherished oasis features the bronze figures of Jesus Christ, Buddha and Mahatma Gandhi. An ideal place for meditation and taking in city views.

District I. Gellért Hill

Hospital in the Rock Museum

2E SZEMLŐ-HEGYI CAVE Beneath the Buda hills, this million-yearold cave is known as the city’s underground garden, where English guided walks are given around the strange rock formations. District II. Pusztaszeri út 35. dunaipoly.hu

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ALL ABOARD FOR CHRISTMAS As festive as the city’s street lamps and markets, the Christmas Tram has been integral to December in Budapest since 2009. Originally, it was just that, a single tram on riverside line 2, one of the world’s most photogenic transport rides, but the concept has been expanded to include a dozen routes around the city served by illuminated streetcars. These days, carriage interiors are also dressed up with garlands and decorations but tourists will most enjoy the sight of these distinct Yuletide vehicles zooming along major thoroughfares, festooned with 40,000 bright LED lights in snow white and blue. The season itself has also been extended, starting in late November and running until early January. Anyone holding a regular public-transport ticket or pass can hop aboard to get from A to B just as on any other day of the year. Tram 2 remains the most frequently scheduled, operating for 12 days around Christmas in 2017.

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Imre Nagy

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 STATUES HONOURING HUNGARY’S 1956 REVOLUTION 3A ANNA KÉTHLY Top international diplomat for the freedom fighters of ’56, Anna Kéthly is commemorated by a statue in Olimpia Park, a plaque on Pozsonyi út and a square by Wesselényi utca. District V. Olimpia Park 3B IMRE NAGY Leader of the Uprising, prime minister Imre Nagy fought for Hungary’s freedom until the end, even in the shadow of the gallows. His statue stands on a bridge by Parliament.

District V. Vértanúk tere 3C PESTI SRÁC By Corvin Cinema, a little boy with a rifle symbolises the fearless young freedom fighters who stood up to Soviet tanks. Named Man of the Year for 1956 by Time magazine. District VIII. Corvin köz 1

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Holocaust Tree of Life

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 JEWISH MEMORIALS TO VISIT 4A CARL LUTZ MEMORIAL This bronze landmark on Dob utca honours Swiss diplomat Carl Lutz, who saved an estimated 62,000 Hungarian Jews during the Holocaust by issuing safe-conduct documents. District VII. Dob utca 12 4B HOLOCAUST TREE OF LIFE A metal weeping willow is the centrepiece of the Holocaust Memorial Park in the rear patio of the Synagogue, with the name of one of 30,000 victims inscribed on each metal leaf. District VII. Dohány utca 2 4C SHOES ON THE DANUBE BANK Pairs of cast-iron shoes honour Jews who were marched from the Ghetto to the river and ordered to take off their footwear before being shot and left to float down the Danube. District V. Id Antall József rakpart WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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Exit the Room

SIGHTS & TOURS

5 BEST ESCAPE ROOMS 5A CLAUSTROPHILIA The one-time apartment of enigmatic adventurer Lord Wicklewood is full of perplexing puzzles and riddles to resolve for a wealth of treasure. Grand Boulevard location. District VII. Erzsébet körút 8. claustrophilia.hu 5B E-EXIT In the various rooms of E-Exit, you can save your soul from hell, run and hide from Big Brother in the dystopian world of Orwell or set free sad-eyed animals from a circus. District VII. Nyár utca 27. szabadulos-jatek.hu 5C EXIT THE ROOM With escape games across Austria, Germany and even in Saudi Arabia, this team creates testing scenarios for up to six players, one involving a bomb, another a zombie. District VI. Csengery utca 76. exittheroom.hu

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Exit the Room

SIGHTS & TOURS

5D GOZSDU MISSION After a few inspiring drinks at buzzing bar hub Gozsdu Udvar, you can break free from an all-white room, a prison cell or a mafia mansion using your mind power. District VII. Dob utca 6. gozsdumission.hu

Exit the Room

5E MINDQUEST While drinking beer at a downtown ruin bar, you can turn into temporary secret agents on a mission to diffuse a bomb, or thieves trying to steal the world’s biggest diamond. District VII. Klauzál utca 19. mindquest.hu

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Gresham Palace

SIGHTS & TOURS

7 REMARKABLE ART NOUVEAU ATTRACTIONS 6A GELLÉRT Celebrating its centenary in 2018, the Gellért is a revered riverside landmark of hotel and baths, planned before World War I when Art Nouveau was at its height. District XI. Kelenhegyi út 4. gellertfurdo.hu 6B GRESHAM PALACE This former insurance building, restored to its former glory as a five-star hotel, is a fine example of Art Nouveau, gracing the square overlooking the Chain Bridge. District V. Széchenyi István tér 5-6. fourseasons.com/budapest 6C HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN ART NOUVEAU Also called the Bedő House after its former owner, this is still the residence of his heirs, functioning as an Art Nouveau museum and independent gallery, Art+Text. District V. Honvéd utca 3. magyarszecessziohaza.hu

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SIGHTS & TOURS

6D HUNGÁRIA BATHS A stylish four-star hotel opened in 2010, the Hungária Baths were a popular spa attraction in the 1920s, a retractable glass dome one of several impressive features.

District VII. Dohány utca 42-44. continentalhotelbudapest.com 6E HUNGARIAN STATE TREASURY Art Nouveau pioneer Ödön Lechner decorated the State Treasury with features indicating the function of the building: bees, beehives and dragons guarding treasure.

District V. Hold utca 4. allamkincstar.gov.hu 6F MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS Though currently closed for renovation, you can still admire this extraordinary Art Nouveau construction from the outside, in particular its bright green Zsolnay roof. District IX. Üllői út 33-37

Hungária Baths

6G NEW THEATRE Béla Lajta’s remarkable creation from 1909, today a fully working theatre, is fronted by a façade spelling out the name of the building in nine letters: Új Színház. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 35. ujszinhaz.hu

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DINING & STREET FOOD Classic restaurants and cosy cafés, vegan eateries and high-end hotels, a kaleidoscope of culinary choice begins at breakfast and runs way past bedtime. This is a city garlanded with Michelin stars and graced with ornate coffeehouses, yet happy to welcome the cuisine of Peru or Georgia into the fold.

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Cirkusz Café

DINING & STREET FOOD

7 BEST BREAKFAST PLACES 1A BÖRZE The logo of a guinea fowl in lace-up leather boots lightens the splendour that awaits here. Delicacies line the counter, but the lengthy breakfast menu holds many tasty treats.

District V. Nádor utca 23. borzeetterem.hu 1B CIRKUSZ CAFÉ Breakfast in Budapest is best at funky, bohemian Cirkusz Café. World-class baristas mix fine brews, while eggbased eats and hearty plates of morning boosters also await. District VII. Dob utca 25. cirkuszbp.hu

CSERPES Great breakfast specials, grilled sandwiches, salads, fruit bowls, pastries, yogurts and one of the best cocoa rolls in town feature all day at the cafés of the Cserpes chain. cserpestejivo.hu

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1C LONDON COFFEE SOCIETY Wooden surfaces, exposed brick, the awakening aroma of coffee, banana bread and a full breakfast make it all feel a bit like Shoreditch. Try and get a table upstairs. District VII. Dohány utca 27. facebook.com/LondonCoffeeSociety 1D SZIMPLA HÁZTÁJI This bohemian hangout by the Szimpla ruin bar uses the best seasonal ingredients for sandwiches, dips, tapas, eggs, salads, pancakes and other tasty specialities.

District VII. Kazinczy utca 7. szimpla.eu 1E VILLA BAGATELLE Upscale Villa Bagatelle is perfect for romantic gourmet getaways amid the greenery of Buda. The selection is splendid, stretching from classic dishes to more inventive ones.

District XII. Németvölgyi út 17. villa-bagatelle.com

Cserpes

1F ZOSKA This bite-sized breakfast place soaks in sunshine. Classic morning favourites feature all day amid book-lined shelves, shabby chic décor and a little indoor picnic spot. District V. Ferenczy István utca 28. zoska.hu

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3 CLASSIC RESTAURANTS FOR HUNGARIAN CUISINE 2A BAJAI HALÁSZCSÁRDA By the Svábhegy stop of the Cogwheel Railway, this traditional restaurant specialises in Hungary’s paprika-infused fish soup, made Baja-style with matchstick pasta.

District XII. Hollós út 2. bajaihalaszcsarda.hu 2B CSALÁNOSI CSÁRDA Offering gigantic servings of stews and loaded platters for two or four, this Óbuda eatery creates an authentic atmosphere with Hungarian music while you dine. District III. Hídfő utca 16. facebook.com/csalanosi.csarda.obuda 2C FÜLEMÜLE Known for its goose dishes and unique variations on the Jewish cholent dish, Fülemüle is loved for its retro charm. Kosher pálinka brandy and regional wines also feature.

District VIII. Kőfaragó utca 5. facebook.com/fulemule

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Zuzu

DINING & STREET FOOD

3 NEW-WAVE HUNGARIAN RESTAURANTS 3A STAND Hungarian gastro duo, Tamás Széll of Bocuse d’Or fame and his spouse, merge cutting-edge kitchen technology and Hungarian flavours across a multiple-course tasting menu.

District VI. Székely Mihály utca 2. standrestaurant.hu 3B TAMA Enjoy reinvented stuffed paprika and quail à la carte at Tama, a stylish dining destination. Business lunch specials and a dégustation menu broaden the repertoire.

District V. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 22. tamarestaurant.hu 3C ZUZU Taking diners back to the roots of domestic cuisine, Zuzu recreates split-pea pottage, tripe with mashed potatoes and a sweet floating island with 21st-century style. District XII. Apor Vilmos tér 11. facebook.com/zuzubudapest WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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Csendes

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 COSY CAFÉS FOR A WINTER WARM-UP 4A AZTÉK CHOXOLAT! Practically invented for a winter’s eve, this Aztec-inspired café varies its hot chocolates according to season – blueberry is a favourite. The coffee is 100% arabica.

District V. Károly körút 22. aztekchoxolat.hu 4B CSENDES A slight ruin-bar vibe still lingers here, by pocket park Karolyi-kert, but Csendes is an ideal spot to sip steaming tea from huge polka-dotted cups amid retro décor.

District V. Ferenczy István utca 5. csend.es 4C MŰVÉSZ This ornate café by the Opera House displays a foundation date of 1898, its Biedermeier-inspired interior a cosy choice for sipping its signature honey-chicory coffee.

District VI. Andrássy út 29. muveszkavehaz.hu

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Noir Chocobar

DINING & STREET FOOD

4D NOIR CHOCOBAR Some 50 types of hot chocolate are served here, including ginger, pistachio, raisin and maracuja. Alcoholic versions come with eggnog, almond liqueur and cherry brandy. District VI. Hegedű utca 6. noirchocobar.hu

Azték Choxolat!

4E ZSIVÁGÓ Echoing the era of the Pasternak novel, Zsivágó is all fancy picture frames and lace tablecloths, upon which Russian coffees with vodka and teas with hot rum are served. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 55. cafezsivago.hu

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INTERVIEW

Esztgeyir Palá

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INTERVIEW

Michelin-starred Eszter Palágy i is head chef at Costes, the first restaurant in Budapest to receive such an award.

WLB: How does a young Hun garian woman become a Michelin-starred chef at such a top restaurant?

EP: After finishing catering scho ol here, I went to Ireland to be commis chef at a four -star hotel. I was really in at the deep end. After my first shift, someone was offering lifts home from work. I didn ’t dare put my hand up so I walked back the six kilomet res instead. But, I was lucky, I was surrounded by French staff, and I learned fast.

The produce in Ireland is topquality – it’s what you do with it that counts. Then I hea rd that Cos tes needed a pas try chef. I worked under Miguel Rocha Vieira and we just clicked. I became sous che f and we were planning the day’s menu together. Then Mig uel stepped back and I took over. A Michelin star is one leve l of expectation but me being a woman is another. The highest compliment a Hungarian can pay to me after a meal here is to say that it tasted just like their gran dmother used to cook.

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Costes

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 FINE-DINING RESTAURANTS CITED BY MICHELIN 5A BOCK BISZTRÓ Legendary chef Lajos Bíró heads up this consistently outstanding restaurant in the five-star Corinthia Hotel on the Grand Boulevard, with outlets in Buda and at Balaton.

District VII. Erzsébet körút 43. bockbisztropest.hu 5B BORKONYHA A French-style bistro, homely Hungarian eatery and classic wine bar in one, this informal spot is overseen by chef Ákos Sárközi, holder of a Michelin star since 2014. District V. Sas utca 3. borkonyha.hu 5C COSTES The first Hungarian restaurant granted a Michelin star, Costes now has two venues with the ultimate culinary accolade.

Here chef Eszter Palágyi oversees high-end pioneering cuisine.

IX. Ráday utca 4. costes.hu

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Onyx

DINING & STREET FOOD

5D COSTES DOWNTOWN The second outlet under the Costes umbrella opened in 2015 and soon gained its own Michelin star.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in bistro-like surroundings.

District V. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 5. costesdowntown.hu

Borkonyha

5E ONYX The first Hungarian restaurant to be awarded two Michelin stars, Onyx showcases the creations of chef Ádám Mészáros, in the same building as the famed Gerbeaud café.

District V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8. onyxrestaurant.hu

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5 CONFECTIONERIES TO SPOIL YOURSELF 6A CHEZ DODO Mouth-watering macarons come in all colours and flavours. The selection changes daily, with favourites available such as Sophie with lemon and Amélie with strawberry. District V. Sas utca 7. chezdodo.hu 6B DAMNICZKI Nearly 25 years of experience is ample guarantee that the amazing assortment at this classic confectionery is bound to be delicious. Tradition and modernity mingle. District V. Hercegprímás utca 17. damniczkibudapest.hu 6C DESSZERT.NEKED The most essential ingredients here are elegance and creativity, resulting in light mousses, tasty macarons, various tartes and traditional Hungarian treats with a twist. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 17. desszertneked.hu 6D MÁLNA This French-style pastry shop in Óbuda offers endorphin-inducing sugar bombs. Anise meringues, fruitcake, truffles, macarons and reinvented Hungarian classics all feature. District III. Bécsi út 57-61. facebook. com/malnathepastryshop

SUGAR! SHOP In this fantastic candyland, Willy Wonka would feel right at home as cakes and interior decoration come in all colours of the rainbow. Two locations, one in District VI. sugarshop.hu

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Chez Dodo

DINING & STREET FOOD

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Tölcsibe

DINING & STREET FOOD

3 STREET-FOOD SPOTS BEST AFTER DARK 7A LÁNGOSH Found by the entrance of bustling Gozsdu Udvar, Lángosh treats revellers to the nation’s namesake staple topped with bacon, cheese and sour cream, even apricot jam. District VII. Király utca 13. facebook.com/langoshgozsdu 7B TÖLCSIBE This cone-shaped treat is a new craze in Budapest’s bar zone: savoury Tölcsibe waffles are heavily filled with breaded chicken, vegetables, coleslaw and barbecue sauce. District VII. Wesselényi utca 23. facebook.com/Tolcsibe

ZING Popular local street-food chain Zing burger has multiple eateries across the city, welcoming snackers with high-quality handheld treats, including Angus beef and low-carb options. zingburger.hu

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New York Café

DINING & STREET FOOD

3 CLASSIC COFFEEHOUSES ECHOING THE BELLE ÉPOQUE 8A CENTRÁL CAFÉ Dating back to 1887, Centrál preserves a prominent literary past but with a progressive mindset.

A vintage vibe here is enhanced with cutting-edge facilities.

District V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9. centralkavehaz.hu 8B GERBEAUD CAFÉ Enjoying coffee with a classic cake at this 160-year-old café makes you feel like royalty. Gilded stucco, wood panelling, chandeliers and marble counters all feature.

District V. Vörösmarty tér 7. gerbeaud.hu 8C NEW YORK CAFÉ Once chosen as the most beautiful in the world, this coffeehouse safeguards its fin-de-siècle splendour with gilded surfaces, crimson colours, crystals and frescos.

District VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11. newyorkcafé.hu

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DINING & STREET FOOD

10 EXCITING ETHNIC EATERIES 9A ARANY KAVIÁR Cited by Michelin in 2018, the Golden Caviar has expanded its culinary remit from its Russian roots but retains its Tsarist style and several varieties of caviar.

District I. Ostrom utca 19. aranykaviar.hu 9B BIANG BISZTRÓ The latest venture by star chef Master Wang presents a range of Chinese gastronomy at a small spot by Oktogon, his most central venue after setting up in outer Pest. District VI. Teréz körút 20. facebook.com/ biangrestaurant 9C HACHAPURI Quality Georgian cuisine at this sleek spot by the Basilica includes shashliks, stews and salads. Plenty of meat-free options too, plus Georgian wines and cordials. District VI. BajcsyZsilinszky út 17. hachapuri.com 9D HANOI XUA With a branch at Kálvin tér and original outlet in District IX, Hanoi Xua offers spicy Vietnamese noodle- and rice-based dishes, plus soups, in hearty helpings. District VIII. Üllői út 2. hanoixua.hu 9E IGUANA The late Cory Skolnik managed to create Budapest’s best Mexican eatery and expat hangout, burgers, tacos and burritos accompanied by cervezas and cocktails. District V. Zoltán utca 16. iguana.hu 9F INKA GRILL Couple Carlos and Milagros opened this Peruvian eatery, serving ceviche, skewered beef hearts and salted sirloin, plus chicha morada, a lemonade drink of purple corn. District IX. Ráday utca 29

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Leila’s

DINING & STREET FOOD

9G LEILA’S Opened in 2018, Leila’s Authentic Lebanese Cuisine is a culinary treat, the food selection rich, best sampled in small portions between you. Reservations advised. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 6. leilascuisine.com 9H OKUYAMA In the Japanese enclave of Óbuda, much-travelled master chef Okuyama-san oversees this 25-seat eatery offering topquality sushi, also available for takeaway. District III. Kolosy tér 5-6. facebook.com/okuyamasanofficial 9I PÁNDZSÁB TANDOORI Offering the gastronomic creations of the Punjab, this family-run Indian eatery prepares meat tandoori-style plus vegetarian dishes. The mango lassi is a must. District XIII. Pannónia utca 3. indiaietterem.hupont.hu 9J TAVERNA DIONYSOS A piece of Greece on the Danube, the authentic Dionysos offers souvlaki, squid and other Hellenic delights, plus winning views of Gellért Hill from the terrace. District V. Belgrád rakpart 16. taverna-dionysos.hu WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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Vegan Love

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 BEST VEGAN/VEGETARIAN EATERIES 10A GREAT BISTRO A lengthy queue appears at lunchtime in front of this focal eatery serving diverse menu options with soups, mains and desserts. Gluten-free breakfast is also available.

District V. Bank utca 6. facebook.com/greatbistrobudapest 10B MATRJOSKA KROSHKA Near Kálvin tér, a former Russian eatery has transformed into a meat-free haven with black-bun burgers, soups and creamy pelmeni dumplings. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays.

District VIII. Baross utca 6. matrjoskakroshka.com 10C NAPFÉNYES Traditional Hungarian and international cuisines are recreated in vegan versions spanning Thai curry coconut soup, Hawaii pizza and Hungarian Somló sponge cake dessert.

District V. Ferenciek tere 2. napfenyesetterem.hu

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Napfényes

DINING & STREET FOOD

10D

TÖKMAG Signature burgers feature beetroot patty or pumpkin-seed cream at Tökmag near the Jászai Mari tér stop of tram 4/6. Soups and pre-packed lunch boxes are also offered.

District XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 5. tokmagvegan.hu

Matrjoska Kroshka

10E VEGAN LOVE Customers line up in Buda for irresistible Vegan Love burgers loaded with vegetable patties and sprouts.

You’ll also find hot dogs, kebabs and a self-service salad bar.

District XI. Bartók Béla út 9. veganlove.hu

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DINING & STREET FOOD

5 CLASSIC HUNGARIAN DELIGHTS AT CHRISTMAS MARKETS BEJGLI Synonymous with Christmas, this spiral-shaped roll contains walnut or poppy-seed filling, served in thin slices. Putting one of each type on your plate is never enough!

GOULASH IN BREAD This succulent stew of beef cubes, vegetables and paprika is served hot in round-shaped bread so that the soup softens it on the inside, but leaves it crunchy on the outside.

HURKA/KOLBÁSZ Savoury Hungarian sausages are famous. Hurka is normally flavoured with liver (májas hurka) or blood (véres hurka), while sausage (kolbász) is smoked and seasoned to be spicy or mild.

KÜRTŐSKALÁCS The main feature of Christmas fairs is kürtőskalács, a sweet cylinder-shaped dough rolled in all kinds of enticing sprinkles such as sugar, cinnamon, cocoa, walnut or almond.

LÁNGOS This national favourite is a deep-fried dough, crispy on the outside and soft within, topped with sour cream, garlic oil and cheese. At Christmas fairs, special varieties feature.

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Kürtőskalács

DINING & STREET FOOD

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ART & CULTURE Culture in Budapest comes in many forms. It’s a series of striking murals, a performance by one of the world’s finest orchestras or the screening of an arthouse movie in a century-old film palace. Galleries range from stately institutions to the sides of residential buildings.

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Sissy

ART & CULTUR E

5 MURALS REVEALING HUNGARIAN HISTORY 1A 6:3 This massive mural depicts the Match of the Century, the famous football victory by Hungary’s Golden Team starring Ferenc Puskás over England in 1953, a ray of light in dark days.

District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 6-10 1B ANGEL OF BUDAPEST This colourful wall commemorates the ‘Angel of Budapest’, the Spanish diplomat Ángel Sanz Briz, who saved thousands of Hungarian Jews from war-time deportation.

District VII. Dob utca 4 1C MAN OF THE YEAR The cover of Time magazine from 1956, when it named this Hungarian Freedom Fighter as ‘Man of the Year’, is recreated on a wall, honouring the heroes of the anti-Soviet uprising.

District VII. Wesselényi utca 40

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Rubik’s Cube

ART & CULTUR E

1D RUBIK’S CUBE Quoting Hungarian inventor Ernő Rubik (“There is always a solution – and not just one”), this mural explains that the code for his Cube can be cracked in 20 turns. District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 5

6:3

1E SISSY This dainty purple mural and portrait of Hungary’s favourite Habsburg, Empress Elizabeth, welcomes visitors to Elizabeth Town, the district named after the revered royal.

District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 11-13

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Bem

ART & CULTUR E

5 ART-HOUSE CINEMAS FOR ENGLISH-FRIENDLY FILMS 2A BEM Opened in 1908 as Helios, the Bem has been renamed several times since. Closed in 2009, Bem reopened in 2016.

It now screens movie classics, often in original English. District II. Margit körút 5. facebook.com/BemMozi 2B MŰVÉSZ The city’s most popular arthouse cinema has been screening films since 1910. These days, they are usually shown in their original language with Hungarian subtitles. District VI. Teréz körút 30. muveszmozi.hu 2C PUSKIN The most elegant cinema in town when it opened in 1926, the former Fórum was remodelled in 1988 and gained two small halls in 2013 allowing the Puskin to host film festivals.

District V. Kossuth Lajos utca 18. puskinmozi.hu

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Művész

ART & CULTUR E

2D TOLDI In operation since 1932, the Toldi is an arthouse cinema that also functions as a popular café, screening a well chosen selection of films in original language. District V. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 36-38. toldimozi.hu

Művész

2E URÁNIA Built in 1894, the National Film Theatre displays fine Moorish décor – it was even once called Alhambra. Its elegant auditorium screens blockbusters and film festivals. District VIII. Rákóczi út 21. urania-nf.hu

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Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Center

ART & CULTUR E

3 ATTRACTIONS FOR PHOTOGRAPHY BUFFS BUDAPEST PHOTO FESTIVAL Major cultural institutions host shows honouring Hungary’s pictorial heritage. The event also brings together global representatives of photography and their audience.

Feb 28-Apr 20. Multiple locations. budapestphotofestival.hu 3A MAI MANÓ HÁZ Providing a platform for traditional and contemporary visual exhibitions, the multi-storey house of photography regularly hosts Hungarian and international displays.

District VI. Nagymező utca 20. maimano.hu 3B ROBERT CAPA CONTEMPORARY PHOTOGRAPHY CENTER Named after the renowned Hungarian photojournalist, this modern exhibition space focuses on documentary photography through seasonally changing displays. District VI. Nagymező utca 8. capacenter.hu

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Pesti Vígadó

ART & CULTUR E

3 CONCERT HALLS FOR CLASSICAL MUSIC 4A FRANZ LISZT MUSIC ACADEMY This elegant concert hall and famed academy named after its founding father was created in Art Nouveau style in 1907, and restored to its former glory in 2013.

District VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. zeneakademia.hu 4B MÜPA The Palace of Arts, known by its Hungarian acronym of Müpa, contains the National Concert Hall, where world-class orchestras make full use of the prime acoustics. District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. mupa.hu 4C PESTI VIGADÓ Opened in 1865, this Danube-facing landmark has hosted Liszt, Wagner and Bartók. Restored in recent years, it hosts various kinds of concerts and theatre shows. District V. Vigadó tér 2. vigado.hu WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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INTERVIEW

Benci e Vág

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INTERVIEW

Founder/choreographer of acc laimed company Recirquel, Bence Vági has tak en acrobatics to new heights. After debutin g at the Sziget Festival in 2012, Recirquel hav e pioneered Hungary’s contemporary circ us scene and earned international fame.

WLB: How would you define Recirquel and how has the company evolved?

BV: Circus is one of the mos t ancient art forms on the planet. Its basics require the same high technical skills as dance. To move into new dire ctions, you have to know the traditions, the essence of circ us. We want to touch people’ s hearts, offering more than just entertainment. This summer , our ballet-like production My Land was bes t-rated by critics at the Edinburgh Frin ge. We are now one of the top ten companies in the world, touring four months a year and introducing Hungarian culture through modern-day performance. If we bring peo ple closer to the world of theatre and circus, we have accomplished our mission.

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Rubik’s Cube

ART & CULTUR E

10 GREAT HUNGARIAN DISCOVERIES BALLPOINT PEN What you also know as the biro, the ballpoint pen was invented by Hungarian editor László Bíró, frustrated by wasting time on filling fountain pens and cleaning smudges.

DIGITAL COMPUTING Hungarian mathematician John von Neumann designed the von Neumann architecture machine, the basis for most modern computers, thus making him their conceptual inventor.

HOLOGRAPHY Hungarian electrical engineer and physicist Gábor Dénes invented holography, the process of creating 3D images, for which he won the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1971.

HYDROGEN BOMB An invention by Hungarian theoretical physicist Edward Teller, the H-bomb was twice dropped on Japan in 1945, its threat dictating global politics for decades to come.

MICROSOFT WORD Used by millions, the first version of Word was developed by Károly Simonyi, a former Xerox programmer hired by Bill Gates in 1981. He was also the chief architect of Excel.

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ART & CULTUR E

NUCLEAR REACTOR Leó Szilárd discovered nuclear chain reaction and was behind the conception of the nuclear reactor. His letter to Einstein resulted in the Manhattan Project and the atomic bomb.

PULITZER PRIZE Newspaper publisher Joseph Pulitzer, born József Pulitzer in Makó, established the most prestigious prize in journalism, literature and musical composition in 1917.

RUBIK’S CUBE One of the biggest selling toys of all time, the puzzle that still keeps the world perplexed was invented by architect Ernő Rubik in 1974. Fun fact: it can be solved in 20 turns.

STRESS THEORY Hungarian endocrinologist János (Hans) Selye was the first to coin the word stress and define it as “the non-specific response of the body to any demand for change”.

Ballpoint pen

VITAMIN C Biochemist Albert Szent-Györgyi discovered and isolated vitamin C – that enables the body to efficiently use carbohydrates, fats and protein – earning a Noble Prize in 1937.

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Madách Theatre

ART & CULTUR E

5 THEATRES FOR ENGLISH-FRIENDLY DRAMA 5A ERKEL THEATRE Opened as the People’s Theatre in 1911, annexed to the Opera House in 1951, the large-capacity Erkel stages drama and musicals, many with English surtitles.

District VIII. II János Pál pápa tér 30. opera.hu 5B MADÁCH THEATRE English surtitles are provided for shows at the Madách on the Grand Boulevard, so its many musicals and mainstream plays can be enjoyed by an international audience.

District VII. Erzsébet körút 29-33. madachszinhaz.hu 5C NATIONAL THEATRE Beside Müpa in the Millennial Cultural Centre, the National Theatre opened in 2002 after a roving history dating back to 1837. Some shows staged in original English.

District IX. Bajor Gizi park 1. nemzetiszinhaz.hu

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Radnóti Theatre

ART & CULTUR E

5D RADNÓTI THEATRE Modern and often English-friendly interpretations of Shakespeare, Chekhov and Ibsen are the stock-intrade of this cultural landmark on Nagymező, Budapest’s Broadway.

District VI. Nagymező utca 11. radnotiszinhaz.hu

Trafó

5E TRAFÓ This contemporary arts centre deep in District IX regularly programmes English-friendly shows, usually pioneering and radical, by independent artists and groups. District IX. Liliom utca 41. trafo.hu

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Memento Park

ART & CULTUR E

7 MOST COMPELLING EXHIBITIONS 6A HOUSE OF TERROR MUSEUM Contained in the former HQ of the Communist Secret Police, this poignant exhibition evokes atrocities committed here during dark days in Hungary’s history.

Permanent. District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu 6B HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY Bacon, Freud and the School of London presents 90 works by post-war artists who were pursuing forms of figurative painting in the face of avant-garde expressions.

Oct 9-Jan 13. District I. Szent György tér 2. mng.hu 6C HUNGARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM From prehistoric stone tools to the coronation mantle worn by Magyar kings, this Neo-Classical landmark garners archaeological and ethnic relics from local history.

Permanent. District VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16. mnm.hu

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ART & CULTUR E

6D KOMPLEX A gateway to lost civilisations, Mummies of the World reveals well conserved bodies of the past 4,500 years, deriving from South America, ancient Egypt, even Hungary. Aug 16-Dec 31. District VI. Király utca 26. avilagmumiai.hu 6E LUDWIG MUSEUM Gaining inspiration from childhood memories and recurring dreams, award-winning filmmaker Salla Tykkä unveils her enigmatic Short Titles to the Budapest audience. Oct 5-Jan 6. District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. ludwigmuseum.hu 6F MEMENTO PARK An outdoor exhibition in distant District XXII serves as the final resting place of Socialist statues that once towered above the streets of Soviet-controlled Budapest. Permanent.

District XXII. Balatoni út/Szabadkai utca. mementopark.hu

Museum of Fine Arts

6G MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Reopened in October, this Heroes’ Square landmark features Egyptian art, Classical antiquity, a medieval-style Roman Hall and paintings by Old Masters.

Permanent. District XIV. Dózsa György út 41. szepmuveszeti.hu

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SPAS & SPORT Historic spas shrouded in steam and snowflakes, lively ice rinks set up in main squares and hilly hikes over panoramic landscapes – Budapest can provide plenty of entertaining ways to beat the winter chill while keeping fit at the same time.

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SPAS & SPORT

3 TOP RUNNING TRACKS 1A CITY PARK An illuminated running course offers safe exercise after dark, part of a new outdoor sports complex in City Park. By day, schools have priority use of the facilities.

1B MARGARET ISLAND This scenic park is ringed with a rubberised running track more than five kilometres long, equipped with a clock for timing laps. Starting point is by the Athletics Centre.

Margaret Island

1C NORMAFA A rubberised uphill path for calf-strengthening workouts stretches from Jánoshegyi út all the way up to the Elizabeth Lookout Tower, a distance of two kilometres.

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Normafa and János Hill

SPAS & SPORT

3 SEASONAL HIKES 2A HÁRMASHATÁR HILL The National Blue Trail that crosses the country has a section that runs along this high ground straddling Districts II and III, its peak crowned by a wooden watchtower.

2B NORMAFA AND JÁNOS HILL In winter, hilltop Normafa parkland attracts sledgers. From here, a trail takes hikers to the city’s highest apex, János Hill, crowned by the Elizabeth Lookout Tower.

2C ÖRDÖG-OROM Found along a hilly ridge of District XII, this steep and rocky nature reserve provides vistas over Széchenyi Hill and Sas Hill. An educational path also features.

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CITY OF SPAS There’s no other capital like it. Budapest has 15 public thermal baths, several private ones at top hotels and a spa culture dating back two millennia. But while the Romans may have soaked away their imperial travails in the healing waters here, it was the Turks who developed public baths in the 1500s at key points around the network of springs below Castle Hill. This natural, abundant supply facilitated the need to cleanse before praying, and even today, visitors can admire the octagonal pools and Ottoman architecture of the rebuilt Rudas, Király and revived Veli Bej Baths. Other spas echo Habsburg heritage, most notably the Széchenyi in the City Park, a sprawling. ornate complex where menfolk do battle over chessboards in the water. Not even the tourist hordes can spoil the magic of a snowy winter day here.

Budapest’s other iconic spa, the Gellért, celebrates its centenary in 2018, its famous wave pool, the world’s first, among the archive photos on display.

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Corinthia Hotel

SPAS & SPORT

5 DELUXE HOTEL SPAS OPEN TO ALL 3A CORINTHIA HOTEL A swimming pool originally opened in 1886 embellishes this elegant Art Deco building, while lavish treatments, a gym, saunas, a steam bath and jacuzzi also feature. District VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49. corinthia.com 3B FOUR SEASONS GRESHAM PALACE A sun-splashed infinity pool, seven treatment rooms, a sauna and steam cabins make you feel like royalty at the gorgeous Gresham Palace, a favourite of A-listers.

District V. Széchenyi István tér 5. fourseasons.com/Budapest 3C KEMPINSKI HOTEL The expansive spa section here offers a vast variety of Elemental Herbology treatments, massages, a gym, saunas, a steam room, a Kneipp-bench, a pool and a health bar.

District V. Erzsébet tér. kempinski.com

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The Ritz-Carlton

SPAS & SPORT

3D NEW YORK PALACE Pamper yourself with treatments and find peace in a pool designed in harmony with the natural elements of air, water and stone at this superb spa on the Grand Boulevard. District VII. Erzsébet körút 9. dahotels.com/new-york-palace-budapest

Kempinski Hotel

3E THE RITZ-CARLTON A cutting-edge gym, thermal suites and a glass-roofed pool await on the eighth floor, while luxurious treatments make the splendid Ritz-Carlton spa experience complete. District V. Erzsébet tér 9-10. ritzcarlton.com

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City Park Ice Rink

SPAS & SPORT

10 DESTINATIONS FOR WINTER SPORTS 4A BASILICA ICE RINK For under-14s only, this rink by the Basilica also offers tuition and skate rental – all free of charge. The feature is part of the Xmas fair and runs until January 1. District V. Szent István tér. adventiunnep.hu 4B CITY PARK ICE RINK Pretty lights illuminate one of Europe’s most magical open-air ice rinks. With easy refuels of mulled wine, this is the most popular skating destination in town. District XIV. Városliget. mujegpalya.hu 4C CSEPEL ICE RINK Accessed by HÉV train from Boráros tér, Csepel features a curving ice slide ideal for racing and speedy stunts.

Affordable skating runs from December until February. District XXI. Szent Imre tér. facebook.com/mobiljeg.hu

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SPAS & SPORT

4D DOBOGÓKŐ Forty minutes by bus from Pomáz, this is the closest ski centre to Budapest 40km away, with two slopes, ski rental and tuition.

Lower areas suitable for beginners. Pilisszentkereszt. dobogokosi.hu 4E HÁRMASHATÁR HILL At nearly 500 metres high, this vantage point is ideal for sledging, hiking and paragliding. Two restaurants crown the hilltop, rewarding sportsmen for their endeavours. District II/III 4F HOTEL PRESIDENT ROOFTOP RINK Skate after sunset above city lights while Xmas hits play. Numbers are limited to 25 skaters at any one time, making any romantic rendezvous intimate and memorable.

District V. Hold utca 3. hotelpresident.hu 4G KIRÁLYDOMB In City Park, near the Kertem beer garden, this hillock provides hours of sledging fun, with differing degrees of difficulty according to which side you slide down. District XIV. Városliget.

4H NORMAFA Sledgers, snowboarders and hikers flock to panoramic Normafa in winter, easily accessed by bus. Warming eats and drinks await in the Ski House and fine strudel outside. District XII. Eötvös út. normafa.hu 4I ÓBUDA ICE RINK Up in Óbuda, this open-air rink in a pretty main square is free to use, with affordable skate hire and tuition.

Enjoy chimney cake and mulled wine between laps. District III. Fő tér. obudasport.hu 4J TÜSKECSARNOK To see MAC Budapest play top-league ice hockey or enjoy a game of badminton or squash, head to this modern indoor arena near Rákóczi Bridge on the Buda side.

District XI. Hevesy György út. tuskecsarnok.hu

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SPAS & SPORT

5 TOP SPAS FOR WINTER 5A GELLÉRT BATHS Bathers enjoy muscle-melting pleasures amid the Art Nouveau splendour of century-old Gellért, featuring thermal-heated waters and an indoor swimming pool with a sun roof. District XI. Kelenhegyi út 4. gellertbath.hu 5B KIRÁLY BATHS A peacefully temperate haven of health, Ottoman-style Király is fitted with multiple pools, fed by hot spring waters carrying magnesium, calcium and fluoride ions. District II. Fő utca 84. en.kiralyfurdo.hu 5C RUDAS BATHS Established by Hungary’s Turkish occupiers during the mid-1500s, this historic landmark features a rooftop pool, where scenic Danube views envelop soakers yearround. District I. Döbrentei tér 9. en.rudasfurdo.hu 5D SZÉCHENYI BATHS Steam rises from the open-air thermal pools of this neo-Renaissance landmark, enticing regulars to play chess in the water and revellers for occasional SPArty nights. District XIV. Állatkerti körút 9-11. szechenyibath.hu 5E VELI BEJ BATHS A lesser-known recreational spot for escaping the crowds, Veli bej is centred by an octagonal Turkish pool topped with a dome and surrounded by small plunge pools. District II. Árpád fejedelem útja 7. irgalmasrend.hu

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Széchenyi Baths

SPAS & SPORT

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SHOPS & MARKETS The idiosyncratic spirit of the city is reflected in the treasure found in its shops and markets. Browsing may reveal a vintage atlas at a flea market or a dress finely designed for New York Fashion Week. Look out, too, for unique Hungarian edibles, particularly at Christmas markets.

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SHOPS & MARKETS

5 BEST STREETS FOR BROWSING 1A ANDRÁSSY ÚT The downtown section of Budapest’s showcase boulevard is where you’ll find Emporio Armani, Gucci and Burberry. Cosmetics boutiques and beauty salons are dotted in between.

District VI 1B DEÁK FERENC UTCA The city’s self-styled Fashion Street is a pedestrianised stretch of high-end real estate where Hugo Boss and Lacoste rub shoulders with the Kempinski and Ritz-Carlton luxury hotels. District V. fashionstreet.hu 1C FALK MIKSA UTCA Running from Parliament to the Grand Boulevard, Falk Miksa utca hosts galleries, auctions and antiques shops – you might find a rare painting or an unusual timepiece. District V 1D KIRÁLY UTCA Running parallel to Andrássy út, ‘King Street’ conceals a cornucopia of curiosity once you cross the Grand Boulevard. Discover old vinyl, a discarded T-shirt or diving gear. Districts VI/VII 1E VÁCI UTCA Once Budapest’s main shopping street, pedestrianised Váci parallel to the Danube still contains the likes of Zara and C&A, alongside souvenir shops and exchange offices. District V

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Andrássy út

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Szent István tér

SHOPS & MARKETS

5 SITES FOR SPLENDID CHRISTMAS MARKETS 2A ÓBUDA A free ice-skating rink and a tree designed by the local Hello Wood team adorn Óbuda’s cobblestoned main square for what might be Budapest’s most traditional Christmas fair. Nov 30-Dec 23.

District III. Fő tér. facebook.com/adventobudan 2B SZENT ISTVÁN TÉR An ice-skating rink for children and a light projection on the Basilica façade are the highlight of this jolly jamboree, selling prime Hungarian gifts and street food. Nov 23-Jan 1. District V. Szent Istvén tér. adventiunnep.hu 2C VÁRKERT BAZAAR On the Danube side of Castle Hill, a Yuletide fair transforms this elegant edifice every Sunday in December until Christmas with music, and activities for children. District I. Ybl Miklós tér 2-6. varkertbazar.hu

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Szent István tér

SHOPS & MARKETS

2D VÁROSHÁZA PARK A few steps from focal Deák Ferenc tér, this advent fair is full of bright attractions thanks to its live cultural performances, workshops and tasty wintertime treats. Nov 23-Dec 28.

District V. Városháza Park. adventbudapest.hu

Vörösmarty tér

2E VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR The city’s biggest Yuletide bazaar welcomes merrymakers with handicrafts, chimney cake and mulled wine, all offered at ornate wooden stalls dotting this central square. Nov 9-Jan 1.

District V. Vörösmarty tér. facebook.com/budapestchristmasfair

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Szatyorbolt

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 DELIS SELLING HUNGARIAN DELIGHTS 3A CULINARIS With one outlet near Parliament and another in Óbuda, the excellent Culinaris proffers mainly global goodies but also rare sausage and salamis from around Hungary.

District V. Balassi Bálint utca 7. culinaris.hu 3B SZALÁMIBOLT This family-run store sells all kinds of cold cuts but most notably, as its name suggests, salamis of every shape and flavour. Cheeses, jams and preserves also feature.

District IX. Ráday utca 24A. szalamibolt.hu 3C SZATYORBOLT Top-quality, seasonal domestic produce lines the shelves here, including honeys, jams, oils, sauces and cordials, plus fresh fruit and veg from sustainable sources.

District VIII. Gyulai Pál utca 12. szatyorbolt.hu

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Ghraoui Chocolate

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 BOUTIQUES SELLING HANDMADE CHOCOLATES 4A COCÓ7 In Buda, an old pub has been converted into an open workshop and showroom for creating and displaying artfully shaped bonbons in flavours of ginger, coffee, even Belgian beer.

District I. Hattyú utca 1. coco7.hu 4B GHRAOUI CHOCOLATE Polished glass counters showcase designer bonbons, displayed in stylish gift packages and pieceby-piece, produced by a historic trading family with Syrian roots.

District VI. Andrássy út 31. ghraouichocolate.com 4C RÓZSAVÖLGYI An assortment of award-winning chocolates contains crunchy praline, chestnut honey, cardamom, coffee or Earl Grey tea. Real-deal melt-in-your-mouth flavour bombs.

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5 UNIQUE BUDAPEST SOUVENIRS FOLQA From a starry-eyed shepherd to a jolly winemaker and a canny wrangler, this collection of folk figurines represents traditional Hungarian occupations. Jewellery also features. folqa.com HUNCUT Featuring cut-out parts of Hungary’s culture in funky forms, Huncut helps you take the essence of Budapest home – a yellow tram scarf, chimney cake air freshener or a pop-up map. satorspace.shop MARCUS GOLDSON Urban illustrator Goldson colourfully captures the detail of daily life in Budapest.

A glimpse at a cigarette brand or a typical moustache takes you back to the city in a sec. marcusgoldson.co.uk 5A URBAN SIDEWALKER Huge posters of Budapest’s cityscape in miniature, postcards, fridge magnets and notebooks created in perfect detail feature at this treasure trove of talent and its webshop. District V. Károly körút 10. urbansidewalker.com

ZSOLT VIDÁK A cavalcade of colours and a comical crowd characterise the funky drawings of Hungarian artist Zsolt Vidák. Look closely to spot Hitchcock, an astronaut, a bear or a shark. zsoltvidak.com

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Urban Sidewalker

SHOPS & MARKETS

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SEARCHING FOR RETRO TREASURE Browsing is an urban sport in Budapest. Rare art, second-hand books, vintage vinyl and antique furniture are stocked at specific venues, or found all together at Ecseri, the mother of all flea markets. Operating all week but busiest on Saturdays, Ecseri is down in District XIX at Nagykőrösi út 156 (take bus 54 or 55 from Boráros tér and alight at Naszód utca), a sprawling wonderland of junk. Don’t be afraid to haggle, particularly at packingup time. If it’s a specific piece you’re after, take an expert. If Communist tat, take a big bag. If you’re looking for old books in English, original pre-war posters or postcards from Socialist-era holiday resorts, head to the antiquarian stores along Múzeum körút opposite the National Museum.

For finer antiques, paintings and auctions, Falk Miksa utca is lined with galleries and art dealers. Vinyl requires a more focused search but Lemezkuckó at Király utca 67 and Wave at Révay köz 1 are good places to start.

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3 FRIENDLY FARMERS’ MARKETS 6A CZAKÓ PIACZ Friendly vendors await visitors every Saturday in the garden of an old Hungarian peasant house that brings the countryside to Buda. Fresh and organic products feature.

District I. Czakó utca 15. czakokert.hu 6B PANCS GASZTROPLACC Cooking and entertainment shows enhance this culinary jamboree, where up-and-coming vendors offer endless kinds of edible treats, vegan wonders and natural products.

District IX. Tűzoltó utca 22. facebook.com/gasztroplacc 6C SZIMPLA Every Sunday, quirky ruin bar Szimpla turns into a market full of locally made goods and fresh produce such as fruit, cheeses, vegetables, honeys, jams and cold cuts. District VII. Kazinczy utca 14. szimpla.eu

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Downtown Market

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 HISTORIC MARKET HALLS 7A DOWNTOWN MARKET Quality restaurants have transformed this historic market place into a coveted dining destination, featuring stellar cuisine and street food, alongside regular stalls.

District V. Hold utca 13. belvarospiac.hu 7B GREAT MARKET HALL Budapest’s biggest indoor bazaar is housed in a three-storey building by Liberty Bridge. Within, vendors trade fruit, vegetables and meat amid elegant wrought iron.

District IX. Vámház körút 1-3. piaconline.hu 7C KLAUZÁL MARKET A renovated historic building is now a modern market, where farmers sell cheese, sausages, eggs, even freshly fried lángos and pancakes. A supermarket also features.

District VII. Klauzál tér 11. facebook.com/klauzalpiac

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Nanushka

SHOPS & MARKETS

5 BOUTIQUES FOR HUNGARIAN DESIGN 8A ESZKA Colourful clothes by Kriszta Szakos, mainly knitwear, brighten the window of her recently opened outlet in the Jewish Quarter. Imaginative textiles also available. District VII. Nagy Diófa utca 9. eszka.hu 8B FLATLAB This joint atelier of young Hungarian designers showcases clothes, accessories and all kinds of funky things for the home. Open weekday afternoons and evenings only. District VIII. Baross utca 3. facebook.com/flatlab 8C NANUSHKA Now a name in global fashion and with a main outlet in town, Nanushka has been a huge success for brand founder Szandra Sándor, her clothes combining fun and functionality.

District V. Bécsi utca 3. nanushka.com

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Printa

SHOPS & MARKETS

8D PRINTA Design store, gallery, studio and café near the Synagogue, this unique outlet masterminded by Zita Majoros offers one-of-a-kind clothing, prints and accessories. District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 10. printa.hu

Rododendron

8E RODODENDRON This bright outlet for a dozen local designers is lined with imaginative prints and souvenirs. Note the artwork

by Richárd Sejben, featuring Budapest landmarks. District VII. Semmelweis utca 19. rododendronart.com

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE Budapest is party city, though in winter, the party mainly moves inside. Lively revelry fills the famed ruin pubs, cosy wine bars and igloos set up on panoramic terraces. While mixologists fix seasonal cocktails, live acts perform on party boats, perfect for ringing in the New Year.

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Szimpla

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5 PERFECT RUIN PUBS FOR A BAR CRAWL 1A ELLÁTÓ KERT Hidden away from the action on its doorstep, this ramshackle pub is revered for its semi-covered courtyard, ideal for chilling out with tasty tacos and hot shots. District VII. Kazinczy utca 48 1B EXTRA Perhaps a bit more upscale than a classic ruin bar, this cool pub is in the courtyard of a long-abandoned apartment building, its ceiling created from red umbrellas. District VII. Klauzál utca 15. extrabudapest.com 1C FOGASHÁZ Merged with another mega-popular pub, this vanguard of the ruin-bar scene is now a whole two-floor party complex where you dance until dawn every night of the week.

District VII. Akácfa utca 49-51. fogashaz.hu

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Extra

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

1D FÜGE UDVAR/UDVARROM Ruin bars at their unpretentious best, these two adjacent drinking destinations are the most fuss-free of all. Scant décor, but cheap drinks and pub sports feature.

District VII. Klauzál utca 19

Szimpla

1E SZIMPLA The king of them all, world-famous nightlife nexus Szimpla was the first ruin pub in town and stays the most authentic with its eccentric interior and many fun events.

District VII. Kazinczy utca 14. szimpla.eu

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5 PANORAMIC SEASONAL DRINKING SPOTS 2A 360 BAR Enjoy wraparound views over Budapest from behind the transparent walls of heated igloos set up atop Andrássy út, providing a prime spot for sipping hot tipples. District VI. Andrássy út 39.

360bar.hu 2B HIGH NOTE SKYBAR Found at eye level with the Basilica, the roof terrace of the awardwinning Aria Hotel provides a covered area serving seasonal cocktails and quality bar food. District V. Hercegprímás utca 5. highnoteskybar.hu 2C INTERMEZZO RESTAURANT & ROOF TERRACE From November, the Hotel President transforms its rooftop terrace into a winter wonderland, featuring a skating rink and a bar, serving hot chocolate and mulled wine. District V. Hold utca 3-5. facebook.com/ intermezzoroofterrace 2D ST. ANDREA WINE AND SKYBAR Come snow or shine, this open rooftop hostelry offers a bird’s eye view of the Vörösmarty tér Chirstmas Market and libations from the Eger-based St. Andrea Winery.

District V. Deák Ferenc utca 5. standreaskybar.hu 2E TOPRUM An Instagram-friendly destination for after-hours lounging and Sunday brunches, the top floor of the Hotel RUM presents panoramic views and gin-based cocktails. District V. Királyi Pál utca 4. facebook.com/toprumbudapest

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Intermezzo Restaurant & Rooftop Terrace

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A SPIRIT FOR EVERY OCCASION At the crack of dawn or to change gears on a big night out, to celebrate a birth or bid a final farewell at a wake, pálinka is integral to Hungarian drinking culture. Produced from plums, apricots, even elderflowers, this revered spirit enhances or salves every social occasion and state of mind. Fired with scorching alcohol content, it is also distilled at local households and brought out for honoured guests. Every bar in Hungary will also stock Unicum, its bottle shaped like a cartoon bomb, as iconic as its publicity posters often displayed. A herbal concoction invented by Dr József Zwack as a stomach remedy in 1790, this intoxicating black gold created the wealth of the Zwack family who have kept its formula secret, even when forced into exile in 1948. A tour of their Budapest distillery reveals how thirsty Soviet soldiers could only lay their hands on a fake version of the production techniques, revived after Zwack’s homecoming in 1988.

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Rocky’s

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

3 BARS FOR WATCHING SPORT 3A CHAMPS TV screens, flags, scarves, shirts and assorted memorabilia festoon this basement bar on the edge of Budapest’s party vortex. Worth booking a table for big-match nights.

District VII. Dohány utca 20. facebook.com/champssportpub 3B ROCKY’S On a busy spur of Gozsdu Udvar leading to Kazinczy utca, Rocky’s two floors of industrial-style bar space is lined with signed souvenirs collected by co-owner Döme Házi. District VII. Kazinczy utca 52A. www.facebook.com/rockysbudapest 3C STIFLER With several outlets in town, Stifler are US-style sports bars with pool, table football and pinball. This main branch on the Grand Boulevard opens until 4am at weekends. District VII. Erzsébet körút 36. legjobbkocsma.hu

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Veritas Winebar

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

3 WINE BARS FOR ROMANTIC RENDEZVOUS 4A DOBLO WINE & BAR Tastefully dimmed lights, elegantly exposed brick walls, live music and prime wines make Doblo one of the city’s most intimate hangouts in the heart of the Jewish District. District VII. Dob utca 20. budapestwine.com 4B MYWINE WINE BAR & SHOP This recently opened haven for oenophiles features homely design and a secluded mezzanine with a sofa, prompting couples to make eyes over tipples and tapas treats.

District V. Arany János utca 16. facebook.com/artizanshop.hu 4C VERITAS WINEBAR Picture windows, bold colours and junglethemed wallpaper entice lovebirds to sip Hungarian and international wines at Veritas, where themed dinners also feature. District VII. Dohány utca 58-62. veritaswinebar.hu

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10 GREAT GIGS TO LOOK OUT FOR FATHER JOHN MISTY Josh Tillman, aka Father John Misty, is currently touring with his acclaimed self-penned album God’s Favorite Customer, filled with poignant, sincere tunes. Nov 14, 2018. Müpa. District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. mupa.hu GREGORY PORTER Grammy-winning Gregory Porter brings his gorgeous baritone voice to Budapest, showcasing jazz and soul standards, and a few Nat King Cole tunes from his last album. Nov 19, 2018.

MOM Sportközpont. District XII. Csörsz utca 14-16. momsport.hu BOBAN MARKOVIĆ The former SYMA sports hall hosts the celebrated Serbian trumpeter, his son and a 50-piece Gypsy Orchestra for a night of Roma rhythms and wild Balkan brass. Nov 28, 2018. BOK Csarnok. District XIV. Dózsa György út 1.

NEW JAZZ FROM FINLAND Two nights of Scando sounds at this key jazz spot features three-piece Mopo, showcasing recent release Mopocalypse, and improv quartet OK:KO. Reservation a must.

Dec 7/8, 2018. Opus Jazz Club. District IX. Mátyás utca 8. opusjazzclub.hu DUBIOZA KOLLEKTIV Politically committed Bosnian hip hop may not float your boat but when DK take the stage, mayhem usually ensues. New album Rijaliti should get a full airing. Dec 15, 2018.

A38 Ship. District XI. Petöfi híd budai hídfő. a38.hu JOHN GARCIA The voice of Kyuss and Vista Chino presents his unique form of stoner rock with The Band of Gold, including tunes from recent LP The Coyote Who Spoke in Tongues. Feb 3, 2019.

A38 Ship. District XI. Petöfi híd budai hídfő. a38.hu

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Rhoda Scott

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

TOM ODELL Buda rock club Barba Negra seems a strange stage for this sensitive Sussex-born singer/songwriter – but new LP Jubilee Road is being aired from Leeds to Lviv. Feb 8, 2019. Barba Negra. District XI. Prielle Kornélia utca 4. musicclub.barbanegra.hu NICKI MINAJ The controversial Grammy-nominated rapper takes new album Queen on the road, teaming up again with Future of chart-topping Hndrxx fame in an unmissable double-header. Feb 25, 2019. Papp László Budapest Sportaréna. District XIV. Stéfánia út 2. budapestarena.hu NIGHT LOVELL This young rapper and record producer from Ottawa clocked over 12 million views on YouTube with his 2014 debut, Dark Light, only a year after he started making beats. Mar 17, 2019.

Dürer Kert. District XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21. durerkert.com RHODA SCOTT This Paris-based jazz organist returns to Budapest with the Lady Quartet for a concert to celebrate her 80th birthday.

Apr 14, 2019. Papp László Budapest Sportaréna. District XIV. Stéfánia út 2. budapestarena.hu

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Black Swan

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

7 BEST BARS FOR SEASONAL COCKTAILS 5A BAR PHARMA At this bijou bar in the heart of the party hub, expert mixologists create custom-made cocktails, exceeding your wildest expectations. The glasses are a work of art, too.

District VII. Kazinczy utca 35. facebook.com/barPharma 5B BLACK SWAN Sophisticated Black Swan honours high-class bar culture in the party quarter with black-and-gold elegance. A semisecret speakeasy ambiance mingles with an urban vibe. District VII. Klauzál utca 32. facebook.com/blackswanbudapest 5C BOUTIQ’ BAR This ever-popular place was once named among the world’s 50 best cocktail bars, and rightly so. Creativity is high, and the bartenders treat you as a privileged guest. District VII. Paulay Ede utca 5. boutiqbar.hu

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5D BUDDHA-BAR An elegant lounge in an equally elegant downtown hotel, the Asian-inspired Buddha-Bar offers top-quality mixed drinks underscored by Eastern flavours and exotic fruit. District V. Váci utca 34. facebook.com/BuddhaBarBp 5E GOOD SPIRIT With sought-after whiskies and cocktails in plentiful supply, barhopping globetrotter Norbert Schöck attracts a lively crowd.

Themed nights help things along nicely. District V. Veres Pálné utca 7. goodspiritbar.hu 5F HOTSY TOTSY When you step through a barbershop’s secret door, you find yourself in Prohibition-Era New York at this speakeasy-style cocktail bar. Drinks match the themed décor. District VII. Síp utca 24. facebook.com/hotobp

Good Spirit

5G PIÑA Modern design meets electronic beats at Budapest’s new pineapple island, where drinks are expertly tailored to your taste, keeping you convivially cornered in busy Madách tér. District VII. Madách Imre út 3. pinabarbudapest.hu

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Buddha-Bar

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5 BEST WAYS TO RING IN 2019 6A BUDDHA-BAR Celebrate in exotic surroundings at this awardwinning Asian-style hotel in the heart of Budapest, with expertly mixed cocktails and DJ tunes, plus Levantine cuisine. District V. Váci utca 34. buddhabarhotel.hu

DANUBE FIREWORKS Stroll along the romantic riverfront to find a prime spot for the stroke of midnight when fireworks explode above the bridges, boats honk their horns and couples entwine.

6B KINCSEM PARK In the traditional build-up to the big night, punters gather at the city’s main racetrack for trotting action and mulled wine.

Fireworks bring the evening to a close. District X. Albertirsai út 2-4. kincsempark.hu

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Kincsem Park

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

6C SPOON It’s a multi-course feast at this refined pleasure boat moored off the Pest riverfront, with a perfect view of the sparkling skyline when fireworks fizz over the Danube. District V. Vigadó tér 3. spoon.restaurant

Danube fireworks

6D VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR To bring Budapest’s main annual Christmas market to a close, visitors and vendors clink glasses in the heart of Pest, surrounded by festive finery and seasonal aromas. District V. Vörösmarty tér. adventbudapest.hu

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5 BEST PARTY SPOTS 7A AKVÁRIUM Comprising several nightspots at a prime city-centre location, Akvárium stages live acts and, at Volt Lokál, popular weekend parties, often with a retro theme. District V. Erzsébet tér 12. akvariumklub.hu 7B DOBOZ A huge party venue in the heart of after-hours hub District VII, ‘Box’ is sleeker than its ruin-bar neighbours. The theme is set by a big red box and contemporary décor.

District VII. Klauzál utca 10. doboz.co.hu 7C FOGASHÁZ At the heart of a sprawling ruin-bar complex, Fogasház is where the party goes on until dawn every night of the week, attracting an up-for-it, international crowd.

District VII. Akácfa utca 49-51. fogashaz.hu 7D ÖTKERT With DJ parties four nights of the week and a central location by the Basilica, Ötkert is a busy spot away from the bar vortex.

Affordable prices extend to the food menu.

District V. Zrínyi utca 4. otkert.hu 7E SPARTY Combining the prime attractions of spas and parties, Sparties are being held most Saturday nights at the Széchenyi Baths this winter, with Cinetrip visuals on December 30.

District XIV. Állatkerti körút 11. spartybooking.com

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Doboz

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Hopaholic

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5 BEST BARS FOR CRAFT BEER 8A HOPAHOLIC ‘In Hop We Trust’ is the motto here, a funky little spot in the party quarter where ales currently include Sourbucks, Nordic Vibe Barrel Aged and Ninja vs Unicorn.

District VII. Akácfa utca 38. hopaholic.hu 8B JÓNÁS Open until 2am at weekends, Jónás brings the Bálna to life thanks to its range of ales and riverside terrace. Look out for local brews Pest Kontrol and Budapest Pale Ale. District IX. Fővám tér 11-12. facebook.com/jonaskezmuvessorhaz 8C LABOR Within the Szimpla ruin bar, this first-floor outlet showcases Budapest craft brewery Mad Scientist – hence the laboratory theme, white coats, safety glasses and all. District VII. Kazinczy utca 14. facebook.com/laborkraftbeerbar

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Léhűtő

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8D LÉHŰTŐ Calling itself an artisanal beer pub and tapas bar, evening-only Lehűtő sits right in the Gozsdu Udvar, offering a huge selection of brews from Hungary and abroad. District VII. Holló utca 12-14. www.facebook.com/lehuto.kezmuvessorozo

Polyhistor Pub

8E POLYHISTOR PUB Ten artisanal brews on tap and e-sports draw ale aficionados away from the party vortex and up to this friendly venue just the other side of the Grand Boulevard. District VII. Izabella utca 37. facebook.com/PolyhistorPub

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THE DANUBE BEND Accessible by boat, bus or suburban rail, the Danube Bend is Budapest’s easiest getaway. A bohemian atmosphere imbues Szentendre, while the main sights in Visegrád and Esztergom show their significant medieval and ecclesiastic heritage. On the facing bank, Hungary’s only triumphal arch is a surprise find in unsung Vác.

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THE DANUBE BEND

ESZTERGOM BASILICA

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VÁC TRIUMPHAL ARCH

PRÉDIKÁLÓSZÉK

VÁC

ESZTERGOM VISEGRÁD

SZENTENDRE SZENTENDRE

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Triumphal Arch

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5 BEST SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS ESZTERGOM BASILICA Hungary’s largest church is a stately 19th-century rebuild of the cathedral where the nation’s first king, Stephen I, is thought to have been crowned, on Christmas Day, 1000.

Esztergom/Szent István tér 1. bazilika-esztergom.hu SZENT ANNA PARISH CHURCH Built in the late 1820s at the behest of Slovak archbishop Sándor Rudnay, this lesser-known church was designed in Classicist style as a smaller version of the Basilica.

Esztergom/Rudnay Sándor tér 1 SZENTENDRE’S SERBIAN CHURCHES Serbs fleeing the Ottomans from the late 1600s settled in Szentendre, building beautiful Orthodox churches such as focal Blagoveštenska and equally central Belgrade Cathedral. Szentendre/Fő tér and Alkotmány utca 128

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Esztergom Basilica

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TRIUMPHAL ARCH The only one of its kind in Hungary, this historic monument was built by French architect Isidore Canevale for the waterborne visit of Habsburg royal Maria Theresa in 1764.

Vác/Köztársaság út 65

Visegrád Citadel

VISEGRÁD CITADEL Grand and fortified in medieval times, this former royal residence was a ruin when excavations began in 1934.

Now open to the public, it is partly reconstructed, its panoramic view still unparalleled. visegrad.hu/-95

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THE MYSTERIOUS MUMMIES OF VÁC In 1994, while renovating a church in Vác, workers stumbled upon a secret door leading to a crypt that had been walled up for 200 years. Behind it, what they found was shocking yet amazing: 262 colourfully decorated coffins in pristine condition, containing an equal number of mummified bodies, men, women, children, craftsmen, priests and soldiers. Residents of Vác were buried here from the mid-18th century onwards. As the crypt had a specific humidity, the mummies were perfectly preserved, along with the many objects buried with them, providing evidence of old burial customs and the concept of death here 200 years ago. Several personal stories were unearthed, but mystery surrounds the most intriguing find, a nun whose heart had been carved out for reasons unknown. Three other bodies are currently on show in Budapest at the Mummies of the World exhibition until 31 December.

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Patak Vendéglő

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5 TOP DINING DESTINATIONS ARANYSÁRKÁNY VENDÉGLŐ Its fame reaching beyond the country, this fusion eatery has an open kitchen and a menu offering a taste of multiple countries, including Hungary, Serbia, even Thailand.

Szentendre/Alkotmány utca 1A. aranysarkany.hu MAGORA Opening late autumn, the first vegan restaurant in Vác should incorporate a shop, while this meat-free locale will also serve as a destination for healthy breakfasts. Vác/Március 15 tér 22. facebook.com/magoravac PATAK VENDÉGLŐ Dating back 25 years, this recently revamped locale at the foot of the Börzsöny hills offers game dishes, meat platters and themed wine dinners. Budget weekly menu, too.

Kismaros/Szokolyai út 5. patakvendeglo.hu RENAISSANCE ÉTTEREM This regal restaurant evokes the Renaissance with its medieval feel and meaty menu, enticing diners with pork, beef, goose and lamb, and Danube views from the terrace.

Visegrád/Fő utca 11. renvisegrad.hu SZENT ORBÁN ÉTTEREM Found in the forested heart of the Börzsöny hills, this log building houses a spa hotel and restaurant, where guests sample game dishes and fine wine by the fireplace.

Kóspallag-Nagyirtáspuszta. szentorban.hu/etterem

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Szamos

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5 COOL CAFÉS AND CONFECTIONERIES FRESCO In an unassuming part of Vác known as Deákvár, this sleek, contemporary cake shop offers Italian ice cream and parfaits, as well as artisanal desserts and quality coffee. Vác/Deákvári főút 28 LOLA On Szentendre’s ever-busy main street, Lola has been in business since 1954, but now creates the most imaginative contemporary cakes alongside traditional favourites. Szentendre/Dumtsa Jenő utca 5. facebook.com/lolacukraszda SAKURA Cake shop and breakfast spot, picture-postcard Sakura sits behind curtains of cherry blossom in spring, welcoming young families in a child-friendly environment. Nagymaros/Magyar utca 11. facebook. com/sakuranagymaros

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Sakura

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SZAMOS With historic ties to Szentendre, famed confectioners Szamos have a shop proffering its famous desserts and a Marzipan Museum with a display of cute edible figurines. Szentendre/Dumtsa Jenő utca 12-14. szamos.hu

Sakura

VÁCI CSOKIZÓ Everyone in Vác knows the Csokizó, evoking childhood memories of tucking into irresistible slices of cake, drizzled with chocolate, on the sun-catching terrace. Vác/Curia, Március 15 tér 20

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ESZTERGOM Overlooking the Danube and Slovakia beyond, the medieval capital of Esztergom is crowned by a magnificent Basilica, seat of Hungary’s Catholic Church. Established more than a millennium ago by the nation’s first king, Stephen I, it towers above sights of similar historic importance, dotted around its steep, winding streets.

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Esztergom Basilica

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7 GREAT THINGS TO DISCOVER IN ESZTERGOM BEERFORT A genuine pub atmosphere awaits right on Esztergom’s main square, where Beerfort offers eight types of ale on tap and 15 varieties of their own house beer in bottles. Széchenyi tér 16. beerfortpub.hu DJAMI MUSEUM Dating back four centuries, this former Turkish prayer house has been converted into a museum, where exhibitions show the history of Esztergom under Ottoman occupation.

Berényi Zsigmond utca 18. esztergomidzsami.hu ESZTERGOM BASILICA Hungary’s largest church is a stately 19th-century rebuild of the cathedral where the nation’s first king, Stephen I, is thought to have been crowned, on Christmas Day, 1000.

Szent István tér 1. bazilika-esztergom.hu

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ESZTERGOM CASTLE The remains of Esztergom Castle, the royal seat until the Mongol siege of 1241, were restored from the 1930s onwards, including the palace chapel and its exquisite frescoes.

Szent István tér 1. varmegom.hu

Esztergom Castle

MÁRIA VALÉRIA BRIDGE Linking Esztergom and the town of Štúrovo facing it across the Danube in Slovakia, this half-kilometre-long bridge reopened in 2001, having undergone a major renovation.

PÁLINKA PATIKA The vast selection of Hungary’s potent fruitbased brandy is what makes this hangout a coveted destination – almost a hundred pálinka variations from nine distilleries feature.

Széchenyi tér 25. palinkapatika.com PRÍMÁS PINCE Invariably geared to tourists, given its setting in the cellar of Esztergom’s Basilica, Prímás Pince still goes for quality in its regularly changing menu and wine list. Szent István tér 4. primaspince.hu

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SZENTENDRE Budapest’s most popular getaway, by boat, bus or fast train, Szentendre still echoes its Serbian heritage, tangles of cobbled streets crowned at various turns by gorgeous Orthodox churches. A thriving community of artists run galleries and boutiques, sightseers and shoppers also happy to patronise the varied riverside eateries nearby.

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Skanzen

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7 GREAT THINGS TO DISCOVER IN SZENTENDRE BELGRADE CATHEDRAL Serbs fleeing the Turks from the late 1600s onwards settled in Szentendre, building beautiful Orthodox churches such as focal Belgrade Cathedral, with its glittering icons.

Alkotmány utca CZÓBEL MUSEUM This refurbished space is dedicated to Béla Czóbel, whose influential Post-Impressionist works of the early 1900s led him to be named an honorary citizen of Szentendre. Templom tér 1. muzeumicentrum.hu/czobel-muzeum MARGIT KOVÁCS CERAMICS MUSEUM On display here are the life’s works of this international award-winning ceramist, some 300 pieces in all, donated by the artist shortly before her death in 1977. Vastagh György utca 1. muzeumicentrum.hu

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MJAM This modern restaurant in the heart of Szentendre deals in quality ethnic cuisine, mainly but not exclusively from the Caribbean, such as seafood curries and classic Thai soups. Városház tér 2

Fő tér

RETRO DESIGN CENTER See how locals lived 40 years ago at this unique museum, large enough to house cars, motorbikes and a whole flat filled with the furniture and kitchen appliances of the day. Rév utca 4. facebook.com/retrodesigncenter

SKANZEN Open-air Skanzen portrays the old way of life of Hungarian village and farming communities. Open Mar-Nov. Take hourly bus 878 from Szentendre station – allow 25min. Sztaravodai út. skanzen.hu TEDDYBEER Here you’ll find 100 types of beers, tremendous hamburgers, barbecue specialities and occasional house parties, all an easy stagger from Szentendre’s main square.

Péter Pál utca 2. facebook.com/TeddyBeerSzentendre

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VÁC Across the Danube from historic Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom, Vác has its own attractions, Baroque churches, riverside walks and a triumphal arch. Vác is well linked by boat and rail – poet Sándor Petőfi rode here on Hungary’s first train, which arrived from Budapest in 1846.

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Hétkápolna

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7 GREAT THINGS TO DISCOVER IN VÁC FRESCO Local regulars gladly trek over to this part of town, Deákvár, for top-quality coffee, artisanal desserts and Italian ice cream, on offer until 9pm every day of the week. Deákvári főút 28 HALÁSZ ÉTTEREM Suitably set by the Danube, this large touristfriendly restaurant features many a Hungarian favourite on its menu, best sampled with the Danube Sailor platter for two. Liszt Ferenc sétány 9. halaszkertetterem.hu HÉTKÁPOLNA By the main road on the southern edge of town, this church was built in the 1700s on sacred medieval ground, its structure relating to the joy and sorrow of the Virgin Mary. Derecske dülő

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MAGORA Opened in November 2018, this is the first vegan restaurant in Vác. It also operates as a café and shop, as well as destination for meat- and lactose-free breakfasts. Március 15 tér 22. facebook.com/ magoravac

Triumphal Arch

TRIUMPHAL ARCH Hungary’s only triumphal arch pre-dates its more famous counterpart in Paris, as it was created for the grand entrance of Habsburg royal Maria Theresa in 1764. Köztársaság út 65

VÁC CATHEDRAL This imposing Baroque landmark stands on the site of the original church from the 11th century. French architect Isidore Canevale created the current structure in the 1700s. Konstantin tér 11. vaci.szekesegyhaz.hu VÁCI CSOKIZÓ If you’re visiting Vác as a family, the Csokizó is the perfect choice for cakes, pastries and sweet treats, best enjoyed at a table outdoors, weather permitting. Curia, Március 15 tér 20

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VISEGRÁD A modest town with a grandiose past, Visegrád earned its place in history when it hosted a congress of regional kings in the 1300s, the forerunner of today’s Visegrád Four alliance between Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Slovakia.

The historic setting overlooking the Danube remains timeless.

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Visegrád Royal Palace

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7 GREAT THINGS TO DISCOVER IN VISEGRÁD BOBSLEIGH PARK Enjoy thrilling rides all year round at Visegrád’s bobsleigh park. After speedily sliding down the hill, you can even buy a souvenir picture taken of yourself mid-ride. Nagyvillám 1. visegrad.bobozas.hu PRÉDIK ÁLÓSZÉK This 12-metre-tall modern lookout tower stands atop the hill of the same name, the third-highest peak of the Visegrád range. Views of the Danube Bend are breathtaking. dobogokokirandulas.hu/Predikaloszek

RENAISSANCE RESTAURANT This regal eatery evokes centuries past with its medieval feel and meaty menu, enticing diners with pork, beef, goose and lamb, and Danube views from the terrace.

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SOLOMON’S TOWER Integral to Visegrád’s Lower Castle, Solomon’s Tower was built in the 1200s to observe movement on the Danube.

It now houses Gothic fountains and a museum of medieval history.

Salamontorony utca. visegradmuzeum.hu

Visegrád Citadel

VISEGRÁD CITADEL Completely buried before excavations began in the 1900s, the Citadel is of limited architectural interest to the layman but its views of the Danube Bend cannot be matched. visegrad.hu/-93

VISEGRÁD ROYAL PALACE The crown jewel of this historic town is the Royal Palace, hiding the famous red marble Herkules fountain, one of the most unique pieces of Hungary’s Renaissance heritage. Fő utca 23 ZUGFŐZDE PÁLINKA MUSEUM For long decades, making pálinka was a secret activity. This museum presents the tools and methods used back then, and offers a sip of the country’s favourite drink. Rév utca 1. palinkamuzeumvisegrad.hu

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