WE LOVE BALATON POCKET GUIDE WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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INTRODUCTION For generations, Lake Balaton has been Hungary’s prime summer destination – but today this is a destination geared up for year-round hospitality. The top-quality restaurants, the wineries, the spa hotels, many of these remain in operation – but of late, Balaton has taken a new direction. Seeing an ever-increasing demand between November and April, restaurateurs, wine producers and hoteliers lay on special events and offer attractive packages to keep Balaton busy even when the lake freezes over. Here at We Love Balaton, we cover all these openings and happenings, along with our reviews, interviews and travel tips. Here’s our selection of the best things to see and do this winter – wrap up warm and have fun!

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HUNGARY

BUDAPEST

Attracting a record ten million guest stays in 2017, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Winter sees the city transformed by Christmas markets and skating rinks.

With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

2018-2019 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

Throughout 2018-19, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort.

Distributed free nationwide!

A We Love Budapest online magazin már hét éve szolgál friss és megbízható információkkal a főváros látnivalóiról, gasztronómiai és kulturális életéről, szabadidős programjairól. Nyomtatott kiadványában erre a tudásra alapozva ad tippeket és ötleteket a 2018–2019-es téli–tavaszi időszakra.

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Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English.

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Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

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CONTENTS

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INTRODUCTION 10 great things to do this winter..........................................................................14 North shore road trip for the weekend.............................................................. 18 South shore road trip for the weekend............................................................ 20

SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS (22-49) 7 unmissable sights for winter............................................................................. 24 7 places to discover Balaton’s cultural heritage............................................. 26 3 museums for culture vultures.......................................................................... 28 7 fascinating medieval remains........................................................................... 30 INTERVIEW – Father Ágoston Barkó...................................................................32 5 fine examples of modern architecture.......................................................... 34 5 attractions to bring you closer to nature.......................................................36 5 family-friendly attractions .................................................................................38 5 special churches on the north shore..............................................................40 3 hidden sights on the south shore.................................................................... 42 EXPLAINER – Balatonboglár’s panoramic globe............................................44

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3 hikes with sights to see ......................................................................................46 3 hidden sights on the north shore.....................................................................47 7 castle ruins worth exploring ............................................................................. 48

ACTIVE BALATON (50-71) 3 steep hills worth the climb.................................................................................52 INTERVIEW – Zoltán Puskás.................................................................................. 54 5 extreme hikes on the north shore.................................................................. 56 3 lookout towers for winter views...................................................................... 58 3 extreme hikes on the south shore..................................................................60 3 activities on the frozen lake...............................................................................61 EXPLAINER – The great Balaton cross skate.................................................... 62 3 great Balaton skating rinks................................................................................64 3 caves for romantic adventures......................................................................... 65 3 harbours open in winter..................................................................................... 66 INTERVIEW – Mária Érdi......................................................................................... 68 7 easy hikes around Lake Balaton....................................................................... 70

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WINE AND DINING (72-99) 10 great restaurants open in winter....................................................................74 5 markets open year-round...................................................................................78 7 special pâtisseries around Lake Balaton.......................................................80 7 family-friendly restaurants on the north shore......................................... 82 5 winter-friendly restaurants on the south shore........................................ 84 3 great bakeries open year-round...................................................................... 86 7 ideal spots for mulled wine............................................................................... 88 7 Balaton wines perfect for Christmas...............................................................90 INTERVIEW – Tamás Borbély ............................................................................... 92 5 Balaton champagnes to toast the New Year............................................... 94 7 wineries open on the north shore in winter .............................................. 96 5 wineries open on the south shore in winter .............................................. 98

EVENTS AND CELEBRATIONS (100-117) 5 events to shake up the lake..............................................................................102 EXPLAINER – Garda, the Tihany fish of legend............................................. 104

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5 advent fairs around Balaton............................................................................ 106 5 top tips to see in the New Year ..................................................................... 108 INTERVIEW – Balázs Balassa................................................................................ 110 3 winning wine events............................................................................................112 4 great gastronomic events around Balaton.................................................. 114 5 great concerts to enjoy in Veszprém............................................................. 116

SPAS AND RELAXATION (118-135) 7 thermal baths perfect in winter......................................................................120 5 guesthouses great for a getaway....................................................................122 INTERVIEW – Balázs Tóth.....................................................................................124 5 wineries where you can stay over.................................................................126 3 spas with exotic attractions..............................................................................128 3 great picnic spots on the south shore...........................................................129 3 top spa destinations............................................................................................130 EXPLAINER – The Sió Channel............................................................................. 132 5 alternative ideas for chilling at Balaton in winter....................................134

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

BALATON BY PLANE

BALATON BY BUS

The only airport at Lake Balaton, Hévíz-Sármellék (hevizairport.com), is small, with a limited selection of summer flights connecting Hungary’s prime holiday destination with Germany.

Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km from the capital, about 125km from Siófok. There is no direct link from the airport to Balaton by public transport. Outside adjoining Budapest terminals 2A or 2B, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to town, costing about 7,500 HUF/€23.

Past the taxis, a bus stop serves two routes. The 100E (ticket 900 HUF/ €2.80) runs every 30 minutes to Deák tér in town, 50min journey time.

The 200E runs to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (ticket 350 HUF/€1.10, every 7min, journey time 25min). This is on blue line M3, currently served evenings and weekends by replacement buses.

Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provide direct services to destinations such as Keszthely (2hrs 20min, 3,700 HUF/€11.50) from Népliget, Budapest’s main bus terminal with its own station on blue metro line M3.

BALATON BY CAR The M7 motorway links Budapest with Balaton. There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (e-autopalyamatrica.hu/en) or at any petrol station.

Minimum validity period is ten days (3,500 HUF/€10.85).

BALATON BY BOAT BALATON BY TRAIN The main stations in Budapest serving Balaton are Déli and Kelenföld, one at the southern end of red metro line M2, the other green M4.

Setting off from Déli and calling at Kelenföld, regular trains run by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) take 1hr 20min to Siófok (single 2,400 HUF/€7.45), nearly 2hrs to Balatonboglár (2,800 HUF/€8.70), and, changing at Balatonszentgyörgy, nearly 3hrs to Keszthely (3,700 HUF/€11.75).

For the north shore, most journeys require a change at Székesfehérvár, although some services run direct to Balatonfüred (2hrs, 2,700 HUF/€8.40), Badacsony (2hrs 40min, 3,400 HUF/€10.55) and resorts.

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Balatoni Hajózási (en.balatonihajozas.hu) serves resorts with ships and ferries. The shortest journey between the south and north shores is Szántódrév to Tihanyrév (journey time 8mins, fare 700 HUF/€2.20).

BALATON BY BIKE Balaton is perfect for cyclists, with all kinds of routes, tours and trails.

Cycle hire is possible all round the lake, with hotels and guesthouses a likely resource.

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INTRO

INTRO

THE BALATON REGION TIHANY ABBEY

TAPOLCA LAKE CAVE WATER TOWER

SZIGLIGET CASTLE

LAKE HÉVÍZ SHIPPING HISTORY CENTRE AND LOOKOUT TOWER

For each Top List, the following icons show if the listed venues are found on the north or south shore of the lake.

PANORAMIC GLOBE

North shore

South shore

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INTRO

INTRO

10 GREAT THINGS TO DO

This winter

Try mulled wine from Balaton Mulled wine is a basic requirement of any winter activity around Lake Balaton – regardless of the recipe, a well known local winery will provide the vital element.

Explore castles In addition to classic and renovated sights such as Sümeg or Szigliget, demolished ruins like Kereki Castle or Tátika provide a special attraction on winter hikes.

Get to know the yearround destinations Places that stay open at Balaton all year will almost certainly be of decent quality, and offer a more relaxed, intimate experience in winter.

Try a winter sport There is no need to go to Austria for skiing, or think of Balaton as a summer-only destination for sport. If the lake has frozen over, don’t miss the rare opportunity to go skating or ice sailing.

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Soak at a lakeside spa Whether you are planning a New Year’s Eve or a hiking trip, you can visit a thermal spa. Few experiences will be as satisfying as taking a dip at Hévíz in the early morning.

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Start March with a hill climb

Take in a winter exhibition The Veszprém Castle District and the Vaszary Gallery in Balatonfüred are worth visiting whatever the occasion, but this winter you can take in contemporary Hungarian photography and Polish artistic trends.

From light to tricky, almost all types of hikes can be found on routes around Szent György-hegy and Csobánc, from where you can see all the Balaton Uplands come into bloom.

Celebrate New Year at Lake Balaton Perhaps not everyone is up for jumping into the lake on New Year’s Day, but the lake’s bars and restaurants come into their own at this time of year.

See almond trees in March Those who haven’t seen it would hardly believe what a spectacular phenomenon it is, to witness the beautiful pink blossom of almond trees in March.

Sample wine at a local winery In the very depths of winter, winemakers dig that little bit deeper to provide a unique experience, including offering samples of the new vintage.

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INTRO

INTRO

North shore

ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: You can start with a drink at the Pazar in Balatonfüred, before a quick tour of the town, popping into the Vaszary Gallery for an exhibition. From there, head towards Tihany, where after a hearty walk, you can find a table at one of the excellent restaurants in Csopak.

In the evening, take a stroll along Blaha Lujza utca in Balatonfüzes because there’s always something happening in the little hub around the Kredenc-Kedves Confectionery and the Morzsa Bisztró.

SATURDAY: The next day is Veszprém, where the Castle District and the Veszprém valley show the most beautiful aspects of the city. You can devote your afternoon to Bakony, where you can hike around Bakonybél or visit the ski centre at Eplény. In the evening, you can relax at a restaurant and a guesthouse in the Káli Medence after your active Saturday.

SUNDAY: On Sunday, head to the west side of Lake Balaton, where you’ll make it in time to visit the famous Káptalantóti market before scaling one of the steep hills. Before returning home, pop into Szigliget, for a skate at the rink by the beach, a quick visit to the Villa Kabala and to take in the sunset from the castle.

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INTRO

INTRO

South shore

ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: What better start to a winter weekend getaway than the gateway to Lake Balaton: scale the high embankment at Balatonkenese in the morning, take a look at the view and then reward yourself with a meaty dish at the Déli Part BBQ restaurant in Siófok. The rest of the day is worth spending in the crowdfree parks and promenades of Siófok and, of course, strolling along the shore of Lake Balaton.

SATURDAY: You can start a crisp Saturday morning with a little drive around the hilly landscape of Belső Somogy. After a visit to the Szent László Visitor Site in Somogyvár, you go on a spiritual journey to the Krishna Valley in Somogyvámos.

With light traffic in winter, you quickly reach Balatonszemes, where you can tuck into the autumn-winter selection at Kistücsök, before touring the nearby wineries of Balatonlelle.

SUNDAY: Exploring Fonyód and its surroundings is an ideal suggestion for the Sunday: if it’s freezing outside, you can sip mulled wine, if not, then tour the sights, the lookout points, the wooded parks, the villas and the harbour. Then you can relax in the amiable retro atmosphere of the south shore, perhaps at the spa in Csisztapuszta, before setting yourself up for the journey home with a good meal at the Vitorlás Étterem in Balatonlelle.

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SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS When life stops at the lidos, exhibitions, church ruins, Roman remains, nature reserves and a medieval abbey make the trek to Balaton worthwhile – not to mention hikes past hidden sights, all easier to explore and discover without the summer throng.

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SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Tihany Abbey

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

LAKE HÉVÍZ Famed worldwide, this huge source of natural thermal water provides a unique outdoor experience, even in winter. If it gets too chilly, there’s a sauna and whirlpool. Hévíz, Dr Schulhof Vilmos sétány 1. spaheviz.hu SHIPPING HISTORY CENTRE AND LOOKOUT TOWER This interactive exhibition presents the history of sailing at Balaton, alongside a lookout tower that provides views from Akarattya to Keszthely. Balatonföldvár, Erzsébet utca 50. balatonfoldvarikilato.hu SZENT LÁSZLÓ VISITOR CENTRE From this tourist attraction opened in 1991, 300 steps lead to medieval abbey ruins linked to Ladislaus I and excavated in the 1970s, as well as the Somogyvár Lookout.

Somogyvár, Kupavezér út. somogyvar.hu/kupavar

7 UNMISSABLE SIGHTS FOR WINTER FESTETICS PALACE Built by the dynasty of the same name, the Festetics Palace owes its most notable feature, the Georgikon Library, to patron of the arts George, active in the early 1800s.

Keszthely, Kastély utca 1. helikonkastely.hu

Kis-Balaton

TIHANY ABBEY Founded almost 1,000 years ago, the abbey has a beautiful view of the inner lake and the south shore. A tour takes in monastic products after a visit to the crypt. Tihany, I András tér 1. tihanyiapatsag.hu

HEGYESTŰ GEOLOGICAL VISITOR SITE Once quarried by hand, the basalt formations of this fascinating geological feature provide an insight into how volcanoes look, and a panoramic vantage point.

Monoszló. bfnp.hu KIS-BALATON NATURE RESERVE These unique wetlands attract all kinds of waterfowl, insects and mammals. Three-hour tours in English set out from the research centre, Kutatóház, near the Festetics Palace.

Fenékpuszta. bfnp.hu/en/small-balaton 24

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Zoltán Latinovits Memorial Museum

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

LIPTÁK HOUSE Writer Gábor Lipták and his wife ran a literary salon here, popular in the post-war era. Award-winning István Örkény finished The Toth Family here. Entry is by reservation. Balatonfüred, Petőfi Sándor utca 36. forditohaz.hu MÓR JÓKAI MEMORIAL HOUSE This summerhouse once occupied

by Jókai and actress wife Róza Laborfalvi is where the 19th-century novelist, a favourite of Queen Victoria’s, wrote his classic Az arany ember.

Balatonfüred, Honvéd utca 1. facebook.com/jokaimoremlekhaz RÓZA SZEGEDY HOUSE This literary museum in a former press house is dedicated to the wife and muse of soldier poet Sándor Kisfaludy, whose heroic legend can be toasted over a fine local wine.

Badacsony, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 17. szegedyrozahaz.hu

7 PLACES TO DISCOVER BALATON’S CULTURAL HERITAGE

GYULA KRÚDY STATUE This likeness of Budapest chronicler Krúdy caused a row between his home town of Nyíregyháza, site of the original statue, and Siófok, where Imre Varga created this later copy. Siófok, Jókai Park

Local legend has it that couples who meet at the Badacsony Rose Stone near the Róza Szegedy House will be wed within the year – provided they both have their backs facing away from Lake Balaton before holding hands.

István Fekete Memorial

ATTILA JÓZSEF MEMORIAL HOUSE It was from here that tragic poet József set out in 1937 before his suicide at the nearby train station. The exhibition displays poignant details from his short life. Balatonszárszó, József Attila utca 7. facebook.com/jaemlekhaz

ZOLTÁN LATINOVITS MEMORIAL MUSEUM Revered actor Latinovits is honoured with this museum, near the station where his suicide in 1976 strangely echoed that of poet Attila József four decades earlier.

Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 52

ISTVÁN FEKETE MEMORIAL Writer of revered children’s books, Fekete is remembered with this site on Diás Island redolent of his tales of bucolic Balaton, including Matula’s hut from Tüskevár.

Keszthely-Fenékpuszta, Diás-sziget. bfnp.hu 26

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KOGART

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

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3 MUSEUMS FOR CULTURE VULTURES KOGART The permanent collection at this branch of Budapest gallery KOGART focuses on sculptor Miklós Borsos, who summered in Tihany from 1943 onwards. Temporary shows also feature.

Tihany, Kossuth Lajos utca 10. kogarttihany.hu LÁSZLÓ VASS COLLECTION Legendary shoemaker Vass collected these mainly constructivist works by European and Hungarian artists before bestowing them upon the City of Veszprém for posterity.

Veszprém, Vár utca 3-7 VASZARY GALLERY After exhibitions on Picasso and photographer Robert Capa, the latest show here, inspired by pioneering artist Anna Lesznai, is a fantasy by fashion designer Katti Zoób.

Balatonfüred, Honvéd utca 2-4. kultura.balatonfured.hu 28

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Our previews, reviews and interviews focus on every new opening and happening in Hungary’s vibrant holiday destination. Join us!

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SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Avas Church Ruins

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

LÁTRÁNY-RÁDPUSZTAI CHURCH RUINS Romantic backdrop for open-air shows and wedding photos, this Romanesque church has been rebuilt many times. An old cemetery nearby also merits exploration. Balatonlelle, Árpád utca 53 MONOSZLÓ REFORMED CHURCH This church dating back to the 12th-13th centuries was later expanded with a classic tower.

Look for the relief above the south gate, depicting the tree of life.

Monoszló, Templom utca 6 SZENT MAGDOLNA CHURCH This Romanesque church in Egregy, just outside Hévíz, was probably built in the second half of the 13th century, and is characterised by its octagonal-topped tower.

Hévíz, Egregyi úti temető

7 FASCINATING MEDIEVAL REMAINS AVAS CHURCH RUINS Only the foundations remain of this former Romanesque church, as well as a 13th-century tower, but tranquil Szigliget needs little excuse for a pleasant day out. Szigliget, Réhelyi út

Dörgicse Church Ruins

SZENT MÁRIA MAGDOLNA CHURCH This 13th-century church has not been spared the storms of history, even fire, but several renovations later, it still displays carved animal figures and human figurines. Felsőörs, Dózsa tér 3

CHURCH OF ST JAMES Renovations of this unusually shaped church, from the 1750s onwards, have revealed more and more evidence of the Romanesque structure beneath it, dating back to the 1100s.

Lengyeltóti, Szent Erzsébet tér DÖRGICSE CHURCH RUINS Around Dörgicse, near Balaton’s north shore, you’ll find the ruins of eerie St Peter’s Church, Kisdörgicse created from basalt and the remains of Alsódörgicse village. Dörgicse 30

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Fath er

As Father Ágoston Barkó, Dire ctor of the Benedictine Abbey Museum, explains, Tihany Abbey has been opening up to visitors in recent years. Tourists can explore pre viously inaccessible features such as the Pogány Madonna and the Rege Confectionery.

Ágosrtkóon Ba

WLBa: What is the role of the Benedictine Abbey as far as Balaton tourism is concern ed? ÁB: On the one hand, there is huge interest in the inner workings of the abbey, the dail y life and living spaces of the monk community. On the other, we always need to renew what’s here, to raise standards, to make the visit or experience more interesting and valuable.

Those who take the abbey adv enture tour may also meet with the monks. The mai n attraction of the Night of Museums in 2018 was the abb ey introduction by Balázs Bujtor, ‘Quiet Sounds’ and ‘Lig hts of Dawn’, organised with Hosszúlépés guided walks, with hundreds of people on the waiting list. In tourism, seei ng how others live, unique experiences, spirituality in the modern-day world and the presentation of traditional sigh ts provide the guiding light.

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Tihany Post Office ( Courtesy Fortepan)

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Former Tátika Restaurant ( Courtesy Fortepan)

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

SZŐLŐSKERT RESTAURANT The former SZOT restaurant and discothèque is a typical example of modern style using traditional material from the Balaton Uplands. The building now stands empty.

Badacsony, Római út

5 FINE EXAMPLES OF MODERN ARCHITECTURE

SIÓFOK STORM OBSERVATORY The first example of late-modern style at Lake Balaton, completed in 1956. The ‘UFO’, renovated in 2008, still performs its vital task of providing storm warnings.

Siófok, Vitorlás utca 16 SZÁNTÓD FERRY TERMINAL An Argentine architect created the seagull-shaped roof in the 1950s, before János Dianóczky worked it over with reinforced concrete. The waiting room still functions.

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Szántód Ferry Terminal (Courtesy Fortepan)

FORMER TÁTIKA RESTAURANT Designed by Ferenc Callmeyer in 1962, this waterfront landmark was considered high-tech in its day, all open-plan and tempered glass. Today it houses a terrace café.

Badacsony, Egry József sétány

TIHANY POST OFFICE This iconic shell-shaped building has been welcoming visitors to the old harbour at Tihany since 1962. Once a ticket and post office, it now serves lángos and coffee. Tihany, Hajóállomás

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SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Buffalo Reserve

5 ATTRACTIONS TO BRING YOU CLOSER TO NATURE BODORKA This waterborne menagerie consists of 17 aquariums, where representatives of all fish in Lake Balaton swim around, from ablets a few centimetres long to catfish. Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány. bodorka.info.hu BUFFALO RESERVE Admired from an elevated observation terrace or behind a wire fence, 110-stone creatures happily wallow in the mud near Kis-Balaton, site of Hungary’s main buffalo reserve.

Balatonmagyaród, Kápolnapuszta. bfnp.hu IMRE FESTETICS URBAN FARM There are no exotic species here, but kids seem to enjoy the goats, raccoons, geese and deer. Smaller creatures can be stroked, so be prepared for a long visit. Keszthely, Csapás út. facebook.com/FesteticsAllatpark KOLOSKA-VÖLGY WILDLIFE PARK Mouflon sheep, reindeer, fallow deer, pheasants, quail and other birds can be seen from the observation deck in this two-hectare park in the depths of the forest.

Balatonfüred, Koloska-völgy VESZPRÉM ZOO One of Hungary’s finest zoos takes in everything from indigenous creatures such as birds and small mammals to exotic Bolivian squirrel monkeys, penguins and a snow leopard.

Veszprém, Kittenberger Kálmán utca 17. veszpzoo.hu

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Amazon House Visitor Centre

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Hunting Museum and Modern Trail Exhibition

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

HUNTING MUSEUM AND MODEL TRAIN EXHIBITION Two exhibitions in one: trophies to impress the grown-ups and nearly three kilometres of train track and lifelike stations to entertain the kids. Keszthely, Pál utca 1. facebook.com/VadaszatiModellvasutKiallitas

5 FAMILY-FRIENDLY ATTRACTIONS

BALATON BOB LEISURE PARK Zoom down a mile-long bob track, take a 360-degree turn on the Panorama Trail and feel adrenaline levels increase as you whizz through the Tunnel Track after dark.

Balatonfűzfő, Uszodai utca 2. balatonibob.hu

BALATON MUSEUM Interactive exhibitions cover the history of Balaton over 15,000 years, with archaeological finds, model ships and bathing costumes. An aquarium contains local wildlife.

Keszthely, Múzeum utca 2. facebook.com/balatonmuzeum

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Balaton Bob Leisure Park

AMAZON HOUSE VISITOR CENTRE The former Hotel Amazon is now a museum dedicated to the golden age of travel, by luxurious early motorcar, by hot-air balloon or by steamship, and always in style.

Keszthely, Kastély utca 11

PANNON CSILLAGDA The first digital planetarium in Central Europe shows films from the Denver Museum of Nature and Science in ultra HD; an exhibition covers Galileo and space travel. Bakonybél, Szent Gellért tér 9. csillagda.net

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Vörösberény Reformed Church

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Szent Mihály Cathedral

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

SZENT MIHÁLY CATHEDRAL Hungary’s oldest cathedral, the jewel of the Castle District, features early medieval walls, a Gothic crypt and Baroque altars. Relics of founder Queen Gizella remain here.

Veszprém, Vár utca 27

5 SPECIAL CHURCHES ON THE NORTH SHORE

OUR LORD OF ASCENSION CHURCH From the outside, you wouldn’t guess at what is hiding within this church: a fresco ensemble by one of Austria’s most famous Baroque painters, Franz Anton Maulbertsch.

Sümeg, Bíró Márton utca 3

Church of Christ the King

CHURCH OF CHRIST THE KING Otherwise known as the red church, this twin-towered, Neo-Romanesque structure was built on the site of a restaurant. The altars feature works by famous sculptors.

Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 1

VÖRÖSBERÉNY REFORMED CHURCH It is worth making a detour to explore the cloistered interior of this church built in the early Middle Ages. Part of 2015 music documentary Balaton Method was shot here.

Balatonalmádi, Veszprémi út 105

SZENT IMRE CHURCH In all of Europe, there are only two churches made of basalt – this is one. Consecrated in 1932, Szent Imre was first built by Benedictine monks 1,000 years ago. Badacsonytomaj, Hősök tere 1. badacsonytomaj.plebania.hu 40

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SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

3 HIDDEN SIGHTS ON THE SOUTH SHORE

KAKPUSZTA Once a settlement of 500 people, Kakpuszta became a ghost town in the 1970s. Accessed by the Mesztegnyő mini rail, the abandoned homes provide a spooky, edifying experience.

Felsőkak/Nagybajom SZENT DONÁT CHAPEL This tiny Baroque chapel atop Kishegy offers a beautiful view of the hills on the north side of Lake Balaton. Watching sunsets here is an essential winter experience.

Balatonlelle, Kishegy telep

Törek Lakes

TÖREK LAKES Outside Siófok, the Cinege Stream and these lakes create a realm of silence in winter and, even in summer, an island of calm.

A nature trail runs along the nine-kilometre route. Siófok, Töreki utca

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BALATONBOGLÁR’S PANORAMIC GLOBE At the top of Castle Hill in Balatonboglár, where today an enormous globe lights up the evening sky over Balaton, there used to be a wooden lookout tower until the mid-1960s. Devised by István Kádár in the early 1950s, the 15-metre globe was manufactured at the metalworks in Székesfehérvár. Exhibited at the Brussels World Expo of 1958, this masterpiece of Hungarian aluminium engineering was already in place by the late 1960s. Original plans called for a glass exterior containing a panoramic café, but these were later rejected due to doubts over its ability to withstand the forces of nature.

Closed several times thereafter, the globe was renovated in 2012 and now provides wonderful panoramic views of Lake Balaton all year round.

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3 HIKES WITH SIGHTS TO SEE LAKE MALOM From Batsányi tér, this walk follows the Tapolca stream, by an old watermill, willows, sculptures and springs. It is most romantic in winter, when fog hovers over the lakes. Tapolca, Batsányi tér SÉD VALLEY TRAIL Alongside colourful houses, past playgrounds and over bridges, this beautiful trail suitable for hikers and cyclists leads under the viaduct which follows the Séd stream. Veszprém, Betekints-völgy TAGORE SÉTÁNY Balaton’s main thoroughfare shows its true beauty in autumn and winter, when the crowds disappear. Further along the embankment, a new gastronomic hub is emerging.

Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány

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Tés Windmills

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Tagore sétány

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

3 HIDDEN SIGHTS ON THE NORTH SHORE HÉVÍZ CHANNEL At certain times, hot thermal waters from Lake Hévíz fill this canal, while in winter canoeists can use a ten-kilometre course whose temperature never dips below ten degrees. Hévíz campsite SZENT ISTVÁN KING’S CHAPEL Above Badacsonytomaj, where mining families once lived, a church has been created from basalt stone. The altarpiece was fashioned by late local painter Erzsébet Udvardi. Badacsonytomaj, Ibos Ferenc út TÉS WINDMILLS These two Dutch-style windmills were built in the 19th and 20th centuries. Nearby, you can also visit an original blacksmith’s workshop in good working condition. Tés, Táncsics Mihály út WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

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SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

Szigliget Castle

SIGHTS AND ATTRAC TIONS

KINIZSI CASTLE The estate of Pál Kinizsi, a commander under King Matthias, is a 15th-century stronghold due to be renovated by 2020. Until then, its well preserved tower merits a visit.

Nagyvázsony, Vár utca 9. kinizsivar.hu REZI CASTLE Built in the 1200s, this fortress had fallen into disuse by the 1600s. Sitting on a 427-metre-high cliff, these renovated ruins remain open to visitors year-round. Rezi, Meleg-hegy. rezi.hu SÜMEG CASTLE One of Hungary’s most beautiful medieval forts is in relatively good condition, providing a panoramic platform for knights’ tournaments and old-fashioned feasts. Sümeg, Várkert. sumegvar.hu

7 CASTLE RUINS WORTH EXPLORING CSOBÁNC CASTLE Csobánc is an isolated hill in Tapolcai-medence.

The ruins of its former castle sit on top of this 376-metre summit, a perfect destination for hikers and paragliders.

Gyulakeszi, Csobánc hegy. csobancvar.hu

Fácános Palisade

SZIGLIGET CASTLE A steep hillside path leads visitors to the ruins of this monumental 13th-century fortress, so well preserved that you can almost sense the fear of Turkish invasion. Szigliget, Kisfaludy utca 26. szigligeti-var.hu

FÁCÁNOS PALISADE Only ditches and the foundations of a former church survived from this enclosure an easy walk from Fonyód. It’s named after the pheasant population that once lived here. Fonyód, Szent István utca KEREKI CASTLE RUINS Brimming with eventful history, including resistance to Turkish occupiers, this castle is now a ruin, its remaining stones besieged by tourists for their scenic value.

Kereki, Amáliapuszta. kereki.hu 48

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ACTIVE BALATON Sport around Balaton doesn’t stop after summer, not even sailing. When the lake freezes over, you can get your skates out to draw figure eights or go ice yachting – braver tourists may even risk the New Year Dip at Szigliget.

Scenic hikes also attract hardy visitors.

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AC TIVE BALATON

AC TIVE BALATON

BADACSONY The highest steep hill around Balaton is accessible by scaling the 464 steps of the Bujdosók lépcsője, set amid bucolic scenes.

On the way down, stop off at a winery or two. Badacsonytördemic, Badacsony-hegy. badacsony.com

3 S TEEP TH OR H I L L S W IMB T HE C L

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GULÁCS Conquering Gulács is achieved by tackling the wild trails that run up the steep hillside, dotted with stones and pebbles.

The rewarding panorama makes it all worthwhile. Nemesgulács SZENT GYÖRGY HILL With its rare natural formations and unique atmosphere, this popular area for scenic climbing is best accessible from Raposka through the Basalt Organs hiking trail. bfnp.hu/hu/ tapolcai-medence-tanosvenyek

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Zoltá n

s National Park Director of the Balaton Upland rge of this muchZoltán Puskás has been in cha Responsible for visited destination since 2011. took over, Puskás many developments since he ber of activities talks about the increasing num during the colder months. l park have to offe WLBa: What does the nationa ter? in autumn and win

Pu ská s

r visitors

re, is for all four seasons.

ZP: Our national park, like natu re at Lake Balaton’, is not only Our slogan, ‘Experience natu mn, to see the contours for the summer months. In autu morning fog is unique. of the hills emerge from the ter is also spectacular. Events The beautiful scenery in win around the Lavender House during this time are focused re e Cave, the Kis-Balaton natu Visitor Centre, the Tapolca Lak e.

Cav s gyó tory and Csodabo reserve, the Pannon Observa ks and geology tours. wal ed guid ter We also offer win special Moonlight tour around In November, we organise a ember, Santa Claus welcomes the village of Rezi and in Dec visitors at Lóczy Cave.

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Csesznek Via Ferrata

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Intersport Ski Arena

AC TIVE BALATON

5 EXTREME HIKES ON THE NORTH SHORE

INTERSPORT SKI ARENA Tucked atop the forested mini-mountains of Eplény, found north of Lake Balaton, multiple pistes, surface lifts and a chairlift serve skiers and snowboarders in winter. Eplény, Malomvölgyi utca 1. siarena.hu

BALATON SECTION OF THE NATIONAL BLUE TRAIL Winding around the Balaton Uplands, this part of the countrywide National Blue Trail is a particularly challenging route, featuring a rough terrain during winter. kektura.hu

PANORAMA BIKE PATH From the village of Mencshely around the Káli Basin, this scenic biking path was laid out three years ago with signposts. The bumpy route requires the use of mountain bikes.

CSESZNEK VIA FERRATA Using fixed cables and carabiners like in the Alps, climbers can conquer the rocky terrain of Csesznek, where a medieval-style castle provides a picturesque background.

Csesznek Castle. viaferrata-csesznek.hu

Extreme hikes also require proper gear. For via ferrata tours, climbing harnesses, helmets, ropes and carabiners can be rented from organisers, the main cost around 2,000 forints. For skiing and snowboarding, Eplény rents out whole sets with skis, boards, poles, boots and helmets, the overall cost around 8,000 forints/day.

HILLTOP ENDURANCE TOUR Organised by an environmental association in the Börzsöny hills, tours focused on hilltops around the region cover diverse distances from ten to 50 kilometres.

Start-finish: Badacsonytördemic, Hősök útja 12 (Faluház). bthe.hu 56

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AC TIVE BALATON

AC TIVE BALATON

FÜLÖP HILL LOOKOUT TOWER An all-encompassing panorama unfolds from this sturdy construction also known as the Millennium Lookout Tower, built in 2001. From Révfülöp, it’s an hour’s walk.

Révfülöp, Mogyoró utca 15. revfulop.hu

BÉL MÁTYÁS LOOKOUT TOWER Soaring 200 metres skywards, Garga Hill is towered over by a wooden observation post, offering captivating vistas over frozen Lake Balaton during winter. Balatongyörök, Gargahegy. balatongyorok.hu/programok/kilatok

ÓVÁRI MESSZELÁTÓ LOOKOUT TOWER Begin your hillside trek from the City Hall at Balatonalmádi to reach this century-old vantage point, providing far-reaching views over the whole of Balatonfűzfő bay.

Balatonalmádi, Öreg-hegy. balaton-almadi.hu

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Fülöp Hill Lookout Tower

3 LOOKOUT TOWERS FOR WINTER VIEWS

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Ice skating

AC TIVE BALATON

Kőszikla-szurdok

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3 EXTREME HIKES ON THE SOUTH SHORE

3 ACTIVITIES ON THE FROZEN LAKE

KŐSZIKLA-SZURDOK A six-kilometre trail runs over the rift valley along the village of Nagybakónak. Wear hiking shoes to access the steepest part of the ridge fitted with ladders. Nagybakónak, Kőszikla-szurdok. nagybakonak.hu/hu/tourism

ICE SAILING The venerable pastime of ice sailing dates back to the 19th century and it remains popular in winter. Steering the boat needs a little experience, but it’s not rocket science.

NAGY-BEREK In the late 1800s, people used to cross these sprawling wetlands aboard rafts. Those who want to discover the reserve today usually hop into a canoe or take the bike. Balatonfenyves, Nagyberek. bfnp.hu/hu/nagybereki-feherviz-tt ZSELIC Set far away from light pollution, the Zselic hills are home to a dark-sky preserve, an ideal location for peacefully admiring shining stars and even the Milky Way. Zselickisfalud. zselicicsillagpark.hu 60

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ICE SKATING When Lake Balaton is covered with a thick layer of ice and certain parts are confirmed safe for skating, couples, friends and families visit from near and far for a day’s gliding.

ICE SURFING Experience the joy of surfing on ice with a special board that easily slides on the solidified water. Protective gear is recommended to prevent injuries from any falls.

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THE GREAT BALATON CROSS SKATE Every winter, when the temperature drops below zero and the water freezes over, Balaton and its beaches transform into a giant ice rink to welcome winter-sport followers at designated areas confirmed safe for skating.

The tradition, going back for generations, helps bring the waterfront out of its winter slumber. But in January 2017, an unusually cold snap helped form a thicker layer of ice on the lake, so two leading local figures, Gábor Kardos of Balatoni Kör and lifeguard chief Sándor Bagyó, decided to launch a new concept. Based on summer’s Balaton Cross Swim between Fonyód on the south shore and Badacsony beyond, the Balaton Cross Skate attracted 8,000 visitors, who turned up with their skates and sledges, to spend the day gliding on ice and forming a human chain right across the lake.

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Tapolca Lake Cave

AC TIVE BALATON

Szigliget Ice Rink

AC TIVE BALATON

3 GREAT BALATON SKATING RINKS

3 CAVES FOR ROMANTIC ADVENTURES

BL YACHTCLUB Ice rink, a heated changing room, a buffet and mulled wine make this Balatonlelle spot ideal for enjoying an active winter afternoon. Events are organised at weekends. Balatonlelle, Köztársaság utca 36-38

CSODABOGYÓS CAVE Climb and crawl through this subterranean adventure park as you pass by natural formations as part of a challenging guided group tour in the Balaton Uplands National Park.

Balatonederics, near road 71. csodabogyos.hu

HÉVÍZ ICE RINK In winter, a giant tent is set up near the farmers’ market, providing a popular covered spot for families to skate even if it’s raining or snowing heavily outside. Hévíz, Széchenyi utca

TAPOLCA LAKE CAVE Beneath Tapolca, a winding cave system is filled with water, enticing visitors to discover this underground wonderland by boat. Above is an interactive visitor centre.

Tapolca, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 3. bfnp.hu

SZIGLIGET ICE RINK A picturesque village on the north shore sets up a skating rink at the beach in the colder months. A sauna facility and hot tea are available for soul-warming pleasures. Szigliget, Soponyai út

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VADLÁNLIK CAVE Attached to the legend of a girl and unrequited love, these underground basalt features, a few metres long and not too deep, are found near several villages in the Keszthely hills.

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AC TIVE BALATON

AC TIVE BALATON

3 HARBOURS OPEN IN WINTER

ALSÓÖRS MARINA Professional sailboats are available for rent at the marina in Alsóörs, whose deluxe treats include a lakeside restaurant where fine dining events take place. Alsóörs, Vasút utca 7. alsoorsmarina.hu FENYVES YACHT CLUB A special water-circulation system prevents boats from freezing in winter at this recently opened complex, fitted with a hotel, restaurant and a bowling centre. Balatonfenyves, Mária utca 1. fenyvesyachtclub.hu

Alsóörs Marina

KENESE MARINA-PORT This protected port in Balatonkenese serves as the headquarters of Hungarian sailing champion Farkas Litkey.

Holding a club membership brings certain advantages. Balatonkenese, Kikötő utca 2. kenesemarinaport.hu

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Mária

This promising local represent ative in the Laser Radial boat class is only 20, but she has already earned numerous prizes at Eur opean and world championships. After appearing at the 2016 Olympics in Rio, she plans to compete at the 2020 Games in Tokyo. She sails ext ensively in autumn, but she has also tried the spo rt during winter, when harsher circumstances require particular attention.

Érd i

WLBa: What is your experie nce with sailing at Balaton in winter and spring?

MÉ: When I star ted professi onal sailing, I spent as much time on the lake as possible.

The bes t winds are in autumn and spring, when I usually go out almost every day. Quite often there was nobody on the water apart from me. It’s quite a unique experience! On one winter weekend in January 2018, I went sailing on Balaton when it was 15 °C. For us competitive sail ors, the cold water can be dangerous, as our small boa t capsizes easily. Those in bigger boats can wear mul tiple layers and the life vest that should be worn at all time s.

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AC TIVE BALATON

Tihany

AC TIVE BALATON

LAKE KORNYI This iconic site in Káli Basin is the natural habitat of various bird species living in the reeds. On its shore, the series of statues, Human Comedy, appear as watchmen. Kővágóörs, Kornyi-tó. bfnp.hu/hu/kali-medence-tanosvenyek SZENTBÉKKÁLLA STONE FIELD The most important geological formation in the Káli Basin is a stone field, remnants of the ancient Pannonian Sea, located 600 metres from the village cemetery.

Szentbékkálla. szentbekkalla.hu TÁTORJÁN STUDY TRAIL Beginning at the Balatonkenese community centre, a scenic hiking trail runs atop the loess wall of Soós Hill, home to the plant crambe tataria and a lookout tower. Balatonkenese, Soós-hegy, Táncsics utca 24 ZALASZÁNTÓ STUPA Inaugurated by none other than the Dalai Lama in 1993, this spiritual landmark awaits hikers with a Buddhist meditative shrine and good karma, all set on a forested hill. Zalaszántó, Világosvár 13. sites.google.com/site/zalaszantostupa

GEYSER CONES OF TIHANY To visit this area now home to pretty greenery that was once a landscape of gushing geysers, a trek along the Lóczy Lajos hiking trail reveals traces of this natural wonder. Starting point: Tihany-Sajkod, Apáti church ruins. bfnp.hu/hu/tihanyi-felszigettanosvenyek

Fonyód

7 EASY HIKES AROUND LAKE BALATON

HIGH BANK OF FONYÓD High on top of the Fonyód loess wall, a panoramic trail provides scenic vantage points with views over villa-style houses and the beautiful Badacsony region. Fonyód, Szaplonczay sétány. turizmus.fonyod.hu/latnivalok-23/fonyodi-setak KIS-BALATON This vibrant natural reserve is home to a rich abundance of flora and fauna. While some parts are closed to the public, Kányavári Island can be easily explored by anyone.

Balatonmagyaród, Kányavári-sziget. kisbalaton.hu 70

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WINE AND DINING Ever more restaurants around Balaton operate all year round, adapting their menus to offer seasonal dishes and laying on special events around Christmas and New Year. Mulled wine flows at farmers’ markets and wineries, now also doing a roaring trade in winter.

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WINE AND DINING

Márga Bisztró

WINE AND DINING

NEKED FŐZTEM BALATONFÜRED Meat cooked in a smoker is the star turn at this recently opened Balatonfüred eatery, where the founders are always committed to find the finest quality ingredients.

Balatonfüred, Aranyhíd sétány 8. facebook.com/nekedfoztembalatonfured KŐVIRÁG Flavours from the Hungarian countryside get a creative twist at Kővirág, where a gorgeous garden is ideal for romantic cuddling. A chalkboard presents seasonal treats. Köveskál, Fő út 9A. facebook.com/KoviragKoveskal

Kővirág

10 GREAT RESTAURANTS OPEN IN WINTER BISTRO SPARHELT A short but comprehensive menu demonstrates what happens when ingredients sourced from local farmers meet the chef’s experimental hands in a bistro-style setting.

Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 7. bistrosparhelt.hu BOCK BISZTRÓ BALATON The sister eatery of Budapest’s popular Bock Bisztró adds scenic panorama to a well thought-out dining experience that’s complete with fine Balaton fish dishes.

Vonyarcvashegy, Helikon utca 22. facebook.com/bockbisztrobalaton KISTÜCSÖK ÉTTEREM Welcoming guests from near and far, Kistücsök is a household name in the Balaton dining scene. Look out on the menu for special offers and regional Balaton flavours.

Balatonszemes, BajcsyZsilinszky út 25. facebook.com/Kistucsoketterem

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WINE AND DINING

Kristinus Gasztro Műhely

WINE AND DINING

MI A KŐ Enjoy local flavours and matching wines as you are surrounded by contemporary artworks mounted on the walls at this great gastronomic destination of the Káli Basin.

Köveskál, Fő utca 25 PURA VIDA PORT Mouth-watering Mediterranean dishes and juicy burgers feature at this waterfront spot, as well as pizzas with special toppings such as orange, curry and pumpkin. Keszthely, Vitorláskikötő 3795 17B. facebook.com/puravidaportkeszthely MÁRGA BISZTRÓ Providing a unique panorama over most of Balaton, this prime restaurant run by the Szent Donát Winery focuses on regional treats – fish, pheasant and fillet of veal.

Csopak, Szitahegyi út 28. szentdonat.hu/bisztro

Márga Bisztró

KRISTINUS GASZTRO MŰHELY A restaurant that belongs to the Kristinus estate proffers fantasy-rich dishes, served as a complete menu or as platters that pair perfectly with the wine produced here.

Kéthely, Hunyadi utca 99. kristinus.hu

Neked Főztem

VÍG MOLNÁR CSÁRDA Though its name refers to the traditional Hungarian csárda-style restaurant, Víg Molnár takes Magyar meals to new heights with its creative cooking and presentation.

Csopak, Kőkorsóutca 1. vigmolnarcsarda.hu

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Hévíz Farmer’s Market

WINE AND DINING

Tihanyi PIAC Placc

WINE AND DINING

HÉVÍZ FARMERS’ MARKET From spicy goats’ cheese to goose sausage, flowers and clay fairies, there are so many things this bazaar purveys it stretches across the car park in the town centre. Tue & Sat 7am-1pm, Thur noon-6pm. Hévíz, Nagyparkoló tér. facebook.com/termeloipiac LILIOMKERT The queen of farmers’ markets is most enjoyable in winter, when the crowds thin out and there’s room to browse.

Handicrafts, food and mulled wine are found in abundance. Sun from 8am. Káptalantóti, Petőfi utca. liliomkert.lapunk.hu

TIHANYI PIAC PLACC Cleanly designed, featuring a bistro, a play area and cultural events, this market near the ferry port is where local farmers sell cheese, apples and pastries. Sat 8am-4pm. Tihany, Tihanyrév. facebook.com/piacplacc

Liliomkert

5 MARKETS OPEN YEAR-ROUND

BALATONFÜRED FARMERS’ AND FLEA MARKET Come to the city’s market hall for fresh produce Mondays to Saturdays from 6am, or get your paws on retro relics, books, art and ornaments, on Saturdays until 1pm. Balatonfüred, Malom köz FONYÓD MARKET Open every Wednesday and Saturday, the biggest market on the south shore is a treasure trove of vintage knickknacks and small-batch produce from local farms.

Daily 6am-2pm. Fonyód, Gáz utca 78

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WINE AND DINING

Karolina Café

WINE AND DINING

KAROLINA CAFÉ Named after the owners’ grandmother, the Karolina offers traditional pastries made according to her recipes.

The extra-long chocolate-sponge cake melts in the mouth.

Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca 4. karolina.hu MÓNISÜTI Aficionados of artisanal treats will love this pâtisserie run by the indefatigable Móni on the north shore, with 15 different cakes and organic coffee on offer every day. Gyenesdiás, Madách utca 46. facebook.com/monisuti PROMENÁD CAFÉ Enjoy a leisurely breakfast with coffee and homemade cakes at this retro-style café, located near Szépkilátó Park and a couple of lookout towers overlooking the north shore.

Balatongyörök, Felsőcsetényi út 50

7 SPECIAL PÂTISSERIES AROUND LAKE BALATON APÁTSÁGI REGE CONFECTIONERY Having been given a makeover in 2017, the pastry shop of the Benedictine Abbey is a reverential location for soul-warming hot chocolate and iconic Bencés cake.

Tihany, Kossuth Lajos utca 22. facebook.com/ApatsagiRege ARÁCSI CONFECTIONERY It’s worth the stroll from the centre of Balatonfüred through Balatonarács for the homemade Arácsi cream cake and pies that entice many regulars to this bucolic setting.

Balatonfüred, Arácsi út 132. facebook.com/aracsicukraszda

Apátsági Rege Confectionery

VILLA GRÉTA The signature coconut-caramel cake and pastries fashioned in the shape of bicycle bells attract sweet-toothed guests here year-round, the terrace 50 metres from shore. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 38. facebook.com/villagretasiofok

BERGMANN CONFECTIONERIES The know-how of three generations is fused into each Bergmann pastry, all made with fine-quality ingredients and age-old recipes. Try the zserbó and mimóza cake. Balatonfüred, Petőfi Sándor utca 64 & Zsigmond utca 1. bergmanncukraszda.hu 80

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WINE AND DINING

Bakos Attila Vendéglője

WINE AND DINING

MORZSA BISZTRÓ Ideal for a quick lunch, Morzsa Bisztró masterfully fuses sit-down meals with street-food treats, the owner having previously worked in the food-truck business. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 9. facebook.com/morzsabisztro ST ORBAN ÉTTEREM A Hungarian-style bistro run by József Laposa and Huba Szeremley on a vine-covered hillside offers pike perch, game and veal, with wines from the owners’ cellars. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 5. storbanetterem.hu SZOMSZÉD KERTJE There’s no fixed menu here, just whatever Attila Tóth and team rustle up, burgers with bacon, perhaps, or game stew. Staff and Toto the dog ensure families are welcome.

Csopak, Kossuth utca 97. facebook.com/szomszedkertje VEGANEETA HOME A haven for vegans, Anita Árvai’s Veganeeta serves healthy and hefty treats, including breakfast and daily lunch specials, all free from animal ingredients. Closed Tue. Balatonalmádi, Baross Gábor utca 2B. facebook.com/veganhomeinbalatonalmadi

BAKOS ATTILA VENDÉGLŐJE Over its 25-year history, this Szigliget site has welcomed acclaimed guests to enjoy classic Hungarian flavours and meat-heavy dishes. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Szigliget, Iharos utca 4. facebook.com/bakosvendeglo

Csóka Fészek

7 FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS ON THE NORTH SHORE

BORBARÁTOK A bygone Badacsony era is conjured up by local cuisine served with a twist, including pulled pork and lamb stew, all paired with matching wines from the adjacent cellar.

Badacsonytomaj, Római út 88. borbaratok.hu CSÓKA FÉSZEK Now a premium-category establishment, this scenic restaurant serves old-time classics created with 21st-century style.

Try and nab a table by the large panoramic window. Balatongyörök, Eötvös Károly utca 153. csokafeszek.hu

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Rozmaring Kiskert

WINE AND DINING

Anno Taverna Vendéglő

WINE AND DINING

MANGO RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Fish from lake and sea, and Hungarian pork dishes are paired with Balaton wines at this bistro-style eatery, occasionally hosting famed piano players to accompany feasts.

Balatonlelle, Móló sétány. facebook.com/mangocafe.lelle

5 WINTER-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS ON THE SOUTH SHORE

DÉLI PART BBQ Adept pitmaster Dzsozi is behind those sizeable beef briskets and ribs cooked to perfection in the smoker. Thursdays are for burgers and the daily offer, weekends for BBQ. Siófok, Vámház utca 2. facebook.com/delipartbbq

Déli Part BBQ

ANNO TAVERNA VENDÉGLŐ Pasta favourites and Hungarian meaty treats are served in a fin-de-siècle setting of antiquated furniture and old-school record players. Cosy is the word for it.

Balatonszárszó, Szóládi utca 1. facebook.com/annotaverna

ROZMARING KISKERT VENDÉGLŐ ÉS PIZZÉRIA What’s considered the best pizza on the south shore is baked here, even in gluten-free versions. The menu also features porchetta and soup made with sea fish. Siófok, Akácfa utca 53. facebook.com/rozmaring.pizzeria

MALA GARDEN An Oriental ambience accentuated by statue of Buddha greets guests at Mala Garden, where an expansive menu features Asian, Hungarian, Italian, Spanish and Mexican options.

Siófok, Petőfi sétány 15A. malagarden.hu

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3 GREAT BAKERIES OPEN YEARROUND BÚZALELKE Open four times a week, this rusticstyle bakery created by founder Bea Kovács regularly experiences a run on merchandise.

Send your order by text, just in case. Kisapáti, Bem apó utca 11. facebook.com/buzalelke PÉKLÁNY Former marketing manager Orsi Zeliska offers cocoa rolls, pastries and savoury sourdough bread of all flavours at her popular Balatonfüred bakery for artisanal products.

Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 5-7. peklany.hu

Péklány

RÁCZ BAKERY From early afternoon until the next morning, József Rácz is busy kneading, cutting, shaping and baking sourdough bread, milk loaves and buns at his family-run shop.

Balatonkeresztúr, Iskola utca 23. facebook.com/raczpek

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Kredenc

WINE AND DINING

PAZAR COFFEE COMPANY During the colder months, this newwave café in this trending culinary hub in Balatonfüred also offers cinnamon-scented mulled wine made with fine-quality ingredients.

Balatonfüred, Aranyhíd sétány 6 PLÁNE BADACSONY BORTERASZ This well located hangout reinterprets intoxicating seasonal drinks and fuses hot wine with creamy dark chocolate and piquant spices to warm souls in winter.

Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 18. facebook.com/planebadacsony RÉTES BISZTRÓ ÉS FRÖCCSTERASZ The main square in Tapolca preserves its Mediterranean atmosphere even during winter, when freshly made strudel is served alongside hot chocolate and mulled wine. Tapolca, Fő tér 7 TÜNDÉRSZIGET A fruit-infused Viennese-style red mulled wine and a white version created with Riesling are served within a fairy-tale courtyard, open in winter when the weather allows.

Tihany, Kossuth utca 29. facebook.com/tundersziget.tihany

7 IDEAL SPOTS FOR MULLED WINE ISTVÁNDY BORMŰHELY Wrap yourself up in a warm blanket and sip fragrant Szürkebarát mulled wine on this accessible panoramic terrace, between the volcanic slopes and the ferry landing.

Badacsony, Római út 155. istvandy.hu KREDENC At this self-styled wine bistro, when the temperature drops into single figures, Kredenc adds mulled wine, red and white, to their wide-ranging tipple selection. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 7. kredencborbisztro.hu NAGYI KERTJE TEÁZÓ An incredible assortment of teas, heavenly cakes and an interior reminiscent of a grandmother’s living room are made complete with hot wines, red and white, in winter.

Aszófő, Remete utca 2. nagyikertjeteahaz.hu

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BORBÉLY CSALÁDI PINCÉSZET – BADACSONYI OLASZRIZLING JÉGBOR 2015 A perfect match for all kinds of Christmas pastries, this sweet ice wine is rich in texture and features the fragrant aroma of quince and dried apricots.

T ON 7 BAL A FEC T PER W INE S I S T M A S R F OR C H

GELLAVILLA – MERLOT-CABERNET FRANC-KÉKFRANKOS 2015 Intense in its flavour, spicy in its fragrance, this finely balanced blend produced by a small estate conveys the taste of redcurrant jam, blueberries and blue grapes.

JÁSDI PINCE – LŐCZEDOMBI OLASZRIZLING 2016 This prime Riesling wine of the prominent Jásdi label is reminiscent of ripe fruit, herbs and spices. An elegant item that is the perfect introduction to its terroir.

KÁLI KÖVEK BORÁSZAT – REZEDA OLASZRIZLING VÁLOGATÁS 2017 Fermented in new and used barrels, Rezeda Riesling carries a mineralrich flavour, citrusy notes and floral fragrance. A must-have on the Christmas dinner table.

KISLAKI BORMANUFAKTÚRA – JÁNOSHEGYI KÉKFRANKOS 2015 A light-textured red with sour cherries, rosehip, black pepper and aromatic spices. Pop open a bottle of this any time during this merriest season of the year.

SZÁSZI BIRTOK – SZIGLIGETI OLASZRIZLING 2017 Leaving the slightly bitter flavour of almonds on the palate, this organic Riesling by the Szászi brand is an intense libation with apple, honey and citrusy notes.

VILLA SANDAHL – TIE MANIA 2016 A basic item in the Riesling portfolio of the winery’s Swedish owner, Tie Mania shows lively acidity, reminiscent of flowers, peach and a touch of banana in its flavour.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

s á m a T ély

Managing the Badacsonytom aj-based Borbély Family Winery since 2010, Tam ás Borbély has been nominated for the prestigiou s Winemaker of the Year award on multiple occasio ns. The winery is open year-round, pouring priz ed Rieslings, ice wine, traditional Kéknyelű and Rózsakő types.

Borb

WLBa: What is the 2018 vint age is going to be like and wha t does a winemaker do during winter?

TB: The 2018 season saw lots of rain and we also had muc h more to deal with where pes t control was concerned.

Harvest star ted early and our cellars received fine-quality stum, the sign of a good vint age. We don’t aim to distribu te for St Mar tin’s Day, but wine from our fermentation tank s can already be bottled in Nov ember and December.

Meanwhile, we keep stirring our barrel wines. The weather defines when pruning can beg in and my father and I manage the work in the cell ar and in the vineyard. We also attend sampling events and wine dinners, but family time and relaxing are equally imp ortant.

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BENCZE – GEMINI II 2013 EXTRA BRUT After a four-year ageing process, the first champagne by the Szent György Hill-based Bencze family estate features finely balanced acids and citrusy flavours.

TON 5 BALA NES AG CHAMP THE ST TO TOA E AR NEW Y

GARAMVÁRI – OPTIMUM BRUT A product of the south shore, the Optimum Brut by this prominent winery bears the summery aroma of fresh flowers, citruses, pineapple, and even a hint of lychee.

KREINBACHER – PRESTIGE BRUT A fine blend of Furmint and Chardonnay makes this elegant sparkling wine an aromatic choice with complex features. Ideal for a New Year’s toast, whoever you’re with.

LÉGLI – CHAMPAGNE MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE BRUT 2015 Named after the Roman name for Balatonboglár, this elegant blend of Riesling and Furmint leaves a cavalcade of tastes on the palate, such as apple and lemongrass.

SZENT DONÁT – MAGMA ROSÉ BRUT 2014 Clink your glass with others at chiming time with this Kékfrankos champagne, a sparkling libation containing fruity elements of blackcurrant and raspberry.

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Pálffy Wine Terrace

WINE AND DINING

MÁLIK CELLAR Set beneath rocky Badacsony hill, Málik prides itself on its barrels of lesser-known Balaton wines. In winter, only group reservations of eight to ten guests are taken.

Badacsony, Tatay Sándor út 6. malikpince.hu PÁLFFY WINE TERRACE Riesling, Furmint and the award-winning red wines produced by the Pálffy family are what make this haven for oenophiles so prominent in the beautiful Káli Basin. Köveskál, Fő út 40. palffypince.hu/borterasz PETRÁNYI CELLAR AND WINE TERRACE Light white wines and full-bodied reds are kept in the depths of the Petrányi cellar, complete with a panoramic restaurant known for its home-style flavours.

Csopak, Homokbánya út 31. petranyipince.hu SZÁSZI ESTATE Providing the best views over the wintry Balaton landscape, this estate is open year-round for groups from eight guests and up, who can also book rooms to stay over. Szent György-hegy. szaszipince.hu

FIGULA WINERY Fresh and fruity wines with a light texture are available for sampling at this Balatonfüred business that also offers late-harvest varieties. Booking recommended. Balatonfüred, Csárda utca 26. figula.hu

Káli Kövek

7 WINERIES OPEN ON THE NORTH SHORE IN WINTER

JÁSDI WINE TERRACE Csopak Riesling, Cabernet Franc and the best cuvée wines are poured for visitors on a panorama terrace, taking in captivating vistas over the eastern part of Balaton.

Csopak, Arany János utca 2. jasdipince.hu KÁLI KÖVEK Looking like any ordinary house on the main street of the gastronomic hub of Köveskál, this building is home to particularly aromatic wines, mostly whites and rosés. Köveskál, Fő utca 11. kalikovek.hu 96

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Légli Winery

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Bujdosó Winery

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LÉGLI WINERY Guru of the Balaton wine region, Ottó Légli has been in the business for more than two decades, selling prime varieties, including the golden Gesztenyés Riesling. Balatonboglár, Árpád utca 47. leglibirtok.hu PÓCZ WINERY Set on the side of Kishegy overlooking the hills of the north shore, the Pócz Winery awaits weekend visitors during winter with their iconic Kokas-hegyi Chardonnay. Balatonlelle, Kishegy. facebook.com/poczpinceszet

BUJDOSÓ WINERY The Bujdosó family is a bubbly team. Their business, set on a sprawling estate, is open during winter to offer wines and sparkling tipples, Mondays to Saturdays, 9am-5pm. Balatonlelle, Várszói út. bujdoso.com

Pócz Winery

5 WINERIES OPEN ON THE SOUTH SHORE IN WINTER

GARAMVÁRI ESTATE The distinct Balaton terroir shapes the character of prime Garamvári wines and champagnes. Tasting events move from the terrace to the wine shop when it’s cold outside. Balatonlelle, Kishegyi út 42. garamvariszolobirtok.hu IKON WINERY Those who prefer red will have a field day at IKON, ‘the South Balaton Wine’, which produces Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. White and rosé also feature. Rádpuszta, Látrány. facebook.com/IKONBoraszat 98

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Courtesy MTI

EVENTS AND CELEBRATIONS With Balaton now a year-round destination, you can combine your Christmas shopping or celebrate New Year as part of a lakeside break. Fascinating exhibitions and culinary festivals fill the agenda over the rest of the winter, providing extra reason for a weekend getaway here.

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Balaton Supermarathon (Courtesy futanet.hu)

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

Winter Sailing Tour

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

FONYÓD SAUSAGE FESTIVAL This great Fonyód tradition involves sausages, sausages and more sausages, even ones fashioned in the shape of Lake Balaton. Retro concerts bookend each day’s feast.

Feb 8-10. Fonyód

5 EVENTS TO SHAKE UP THE LAKE

BALATON MARATHON Setting off from Siófok, hardy participants run along the shore of Lake Balaton. Distances involved include a half-marathon and the hallowed 26 miles, 385 yards.

Nov 24-25. Siófok WINTER SAILING TOUR Balázs Tóth, unflappable head of the BL Yacht Club, came up with the crazy idea of a four- or five-day winter sail around Balaton, this year involving some 20 or 30 sailors.

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Balaton Supermarathon (Courtesy futanet.hu

GARDA FESTIVAL For one weekend in November, crowds gather in Tihany to devour smoked fish. The annual Garda Festival, aka Gardália, celebrates the role of this tiny creature in local lore.

Nov 16-18. Tihany. gardafesztival.hu

BALATON SUPERMARATHON The first major sports event of spring is this 196-km long haul around Lake Balaton, which can be completed in relay teams of four. Siófok is the setting-off point. Mar 21-24. facebook.com/szupermaraton

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GARDA, THE TIHANY FISH OF LEGEND The garda (also known as swordfish, sword bream or Balaton herring) belongs to a group of small fish in the carp family, sometimes reaching only 1.5kg in weight. As it is the most prevalent in Tihany, it is no coincidence that the garda proudly features on the town’s coat of arms. At the end of the 19th century, a certain Ottó Hermann described the centuries-old techniques used by Tihany fishermen to catch this elusive fish.

Garda fishing required serious teamwork. At the end of autumn, the garda gathered in huge schools at the deepest point of Lake Balaton at the Tihany spring, this greeny-blue floating swarm observed by an experienced fisherman from a nearby hilltop. He would then wave a stick to indicate their movement to his companions. An abundant catch was then dried in the sun and preserved. Today all fishing is banned at Lake Balaton but every November, the Tihany Garda Festival celebrates local fishing tradition

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EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

BALATON KÖR ADVENT NIGHT GASTRO PICNIC Badacsony also features when it comes to Advent: the lake, eats, wine, pálinka and craft brews are all to be had and you can find handcrafted gifts under the tree. Dec 8, noon-8pm. Badacsonytomaj

5 ADVENT FAIRS AROUND BALATON 40TH ARANYCSENGŐ ADVENT MARKET Hot chocolate and mulled wine will be flowing around Siófok’s main square, complete with concerts and children’s attractions. Skating on the nearby rink is de rigueur. Nov 30-Dec 23. Siófok, Fő tér & Kálmán Imre Kulturális Központ

FOLLY ARBORETUM & WINERY With mulled wine in hand, amid ancient trees, you can admire a Balaton winter at this special spot.

At the fair, local craftspeople offer well conceived gifts. Dec weekends.

Badacsonytomaj, Badacsonyörs, Kápolnavölgyi út 25

2ND AROMATIC ADVENT Veszprém’s historic centre is one of the most atmospheric of Advent fairs. It’s worth tying in Christmas shopping with a visit to a local museum or a concert at Hangvilla.

Nov 24-Dec 24. Veszprém city centre BALATON ADVENT GASTRO PICNIC & CHRISTMAS FAIR The only Christmas fair with sailboats. As well as the mandatory roast chestnutboiled wine combo, there’s an ice rink and, if the weather allows, the Santa Claus Regatta. Dec 1-2. Balatonlelle, Köztársaság utca 36-38.

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Szigliget New Year plunge

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

RENT A GUESTHOUSE Soak off the winter cold in cosy lodgings – look early enough and you can find any number of guesthouses around Balaton for a night or two. It’s a great escape from the crowds.

SZIGLIGET NEW YEAR PLUNGE To start the year with a clean sheet, try freezing water. Some 500 bold New Year bathers dive in to grab a Christmas tree. It’s also good fun to watch from the shore.

5 TOP TIPS TO SEE IN THE NEW YEAR NEW YEAR REGATTA The sailing race at Balatonlelle is an exciting year-end for sports enthusiasts, and an active break for families gathered on the shore, with an ice rink and parties after dark.

Balatonlelle, Köztársaság út 36-38. szilveszter.blyc.hu

Winter walking tour

WINTER WALKING TOUR Ever more hikers prove that doing the Camino del Balaton along the shore cleanses heart and brain.

Climbing a nearby hill can also mark the new year in memorable fashion.

For New Year’s Eve, you should book your accommodation well ahead of time, as this is the busiest period at Balaton during the winter season. Besides hotels, check offers at guest houses.

NEW YEAR’S EVE DINNERS AND PARTIES If the guesthouse option doesn’t work out, then you can avoid having to make any plans other than joining the partying crowds in main town squares – or booking a restaurant table.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

s z á l a B

The mayor of Szigliget has lon g been working to make Balaton a year-round destination.

As a result, the New Year Dip is now the largest event in the region.

Bala ssa

WLBa: Why is winter tourism

important to Szigliget?

BB: A decade ago, we created a new slogan, Szigliget All Year, and we have kept it eve r since. It was clear that we couldn’t attract any more visit ors in summer. So, the beach in winter, spas and the skating rink are par t of this yearround concept. An event in Szig liget is not only good for us, but for the region as a whole.

Full-year employment and opening hours are key to reta ining the workforce.

WLBa: How did the New Yea

r Dip come to be?

BB: In 2011, we came up with the idea of ​​organising an eve nt around winter bathing. I had no idea so many would take it up. The basic concept came from the old saying that thos e who bathe in Balaton on Janu ary 1 will remain healthy all year. The first time, 35 took the plunge, then last year it was 500, watched by 3,000 or 4,00 0 onlookers.

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EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

3 WINNING WINE EVENTS VÖRÖS BALATON Red varieties in the Balaton wine regions garner unjustifiably less praise than the whites. There is outstanding quality to be found, confirmed by the annual showcase of the Jásdi clan. Dec 8. Jásdi Borterasz, Arany János utca, Csopak. jasdipince.hu VINCE NAPI BORÜNNEP This season-opening event attracts the most famous producers in the area. As well as walking around the wooden cabins to sample the wares, you can enjoy a special dinner in town. Jan 18-19. Balatonfüred OLASZRIZLING SZERINTÜNK At this annual gathering of Balaton winemakers, Olaszrizling, aka Riesling, is the focus. Jásdi and the St Donat Estate host tastings, with other events held nearby. Jan 26. Csopak & Balatonfüred

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Badacsony

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

DJ In The Vines

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

LELLE GASTRO BALL This curtain-raiser to the winter sailing season was created by local wineries, confectioneries and restaurants.

Anyone who is anyone on the south shore is sure to be involved.

Feb 2. Balatonlelle Rendezvénypark

BADACSONY GASZTROHEGY To keep busy in the off-season, Badacsony organises Gasztrohegy, a seven-strong series of culinary events from October to March. November means fish, December pork and January game. badacsony.hu BALATONIKÖR GASTRO PICNIC For this seasonal road show of Balaton restaurateurs, winemakers and producers, the finest examples of local gastronomy and viticulture can be sampled, all in one place.

Feb 23. Csopak

DJ In The Vines

4 GREAT GASTRONOMIC EVENTS AROUND BALATON

DJ IN THE VINES The Homola Winery stays active in winter by keeping the decks spinning for its DJ In The Vines series of outdoor music sessions. Look out for Mikulás eve in early December.

Paloznak, Vincellér utca. homolapinceszet.hu

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Kiscsillag Song Duels

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

Kowalsky meg a Vega 15 (Courtesy www.kowa.hu)

EVENTS AND C ELEBRATIONS

STUBBORN AT SZIGONY After a change of drummers, Kerekegyháza four-piece Stubborn bring their own brand of alternative hardcore to the Szigony, whose crowd tends to lap up this kind of thing. Dec 21.

Megyeház tér 2. facebook.com/szigonybarterasz

5 GREAT CONCERTS TO ENJOY IN VESZPRÉM

BORI PÉTERFY Extrovert singer/actress and Julee Cruise lookalike Péterfy performs with her Love Band, part of a nationwide tour that has taken her lively pop/rock tunes across Hungary. Dec 7. Expresszó Klub. Brusznai Árpád utca 2. expresszo.hu KISCSILLAG SONG DUELS Fronted by star songsmith András Lovasi, known for his work with seminal group Kispál és a Borz, the more sedate Kiscsillag here offer two songs for any one theme. Dec 20.

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PASO Big Band (Courtesy Imre Barta)

KOWALSKY MEG A VEGA Gyula Balázs and the boys, aka Kowalsky meg a Vega (‘Vega’ being a nod to Pulp Fiction) celebrate the band’s anniversary with two shows at the city’s prime live venue. Nov 23-24.

Expresszó Klub. Brusznai Árpád utca 2. expresszo.hu

PASO BIG BAND The Pannonia Allstars Ska Orchestra, aka PASO, mix Jamaican and ethnic Hungarian dance sounds, just the right thing to get the crowd moving in the main hall of the Hangvilla. Dec 28. Hangvilla, Brusznai Árpád utca 2. hangvilla.com

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SPAS AND RELAXATION Winter is big business at Balaton, when many of the better hotels offer spa packages, particularly over Christmas and New Year. Therapy options vary greatly – you can even soak away in a bath of wine. Europe’s largest thermal lake, Hévíz, attracts visitors all year round.

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Kehida Termál

SPAS AND R ELAXATION

IGAL When people were digging here for oil, warm healing water was found spurting from the ground. A spa was duly built, with outdoor and indoor pools also awaiting guests. Igal, Rákóczi tér 30. igal.hu KEHIDA TERMÁL This self-styled Adventure Bath and Spa north of Keszthely, Kehida comprises 12 pools, a 94-metre-long slide and a lazy river ride. Healing waters rejuvenate the skin and joints.

Kehidakustány, Kossuth utca 62. kehidatermal.hu MARCALI This sprawling spa complex sits in a parkland south of Balaton in Marcali, with healing waters, saunas, fun pools, lane pools and a slide. Limited use in winter. Marcali, Rózsa utca 2A. marcali-furdo.hu ZALAKAROS The family-friendly spa of Zalakaros near Kis-Balaton has been a public amenity since 1978. Healing waters, covered pools, a gym, a sauna and slides all await. Zalakaros, Thermál utca 4. hellozalakaros.hu Hévíz

7 THERMAL BATHS PERFECT IN WINTER CSISZTAFÜRDŐ The tiny village of Clean Springs lives from its natural resources. Its spa has recently been renovated, so you can melt your muscles in healing waters or with a massage. Buzsák-Csisztapuszta, Fürdő tér. csisztafurdo.hu GALERIUS FÜRDŐ Six pools, one with thermal waters, two with slides for kids are complemented by several saunas, one offering light- and aromatherapy, all near the Siófok waterfront. Siófok-Szabadifürdő, Szent László utca 183. galerius-furdo.hu HÉVÍZ Being the location of Europe’s largest natural thermal lake makes Hévíz a particularly special destination in a land of spas. You can soak away in the warm waters all year round.

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Káli Art Inn

SPAS AND R ELAXATION

Fügekert

SPAS AND R ELAXATION

KÁLI ART INN In a locality full of great gastro options, this is the jewel in the crown. Antique furniture, a huge garden and a high-quality cuisine make it the perfect getaway. Köveskál, Fő utca 6-8. kaliartinn.hu FÜRJES UDVARHÁZ Ex-goalkeeper Attila Hajdu helps run this guesthouse with its fine panorama, each of its six rooms named after a wine. The fireplace makes for memorable winter evenings.

Vászoly, Öreghegy. furjesudvarhaz.hu

FÜGEKERT – BED & WINE Fügekert touts itself as simply ‘bed and wine’. It also offers the kind of peace and quiet you find in the middle of nowhere. Breakfast features artisanal local produce.

Zánka, Fő utca 30. fugekert.com

Fürjes Udvarház

5 GUESTHOUSES GREAT FOR A GETAWAY

PÁSKOM COTTAGE Lajoskomárom is a lovely village near Siófok, where this homely guesthouse comprises a spa, pool and restaurant, plus ten rooms and apartments, each with its own balcony.

Lajoskomárom, Ozorai utca. paskom.hu VILLA KABALA Here you’ll want time to stand still, at least until you’ve enjoyed this breathtaking panorama to the fullest – and after a breakfast made by this lovely family. Szigliget, Kamonkői út 48. villakabala.hu 122

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INTERVIEW

s z á l a B

Manager at the BL YachtClub in Balatonlelle and vice president of the Balaton Circle, Balázs Tóth believes that Balaton is for all seasons. He promotes the area and the south shore, making them enticing destinations even during the cold er months.

Tóth

WLBa: If you could make a wish come true, what would you add to Balaton in winter?

BT: I would expand the boa t service to winter, either with a permanent schedule or tailo red to specific events. As an example, it could link the Chri stmas markets found around the lake. Our aim is to show people the opportunities Balaton offers out of the pea k summer season. This initiative has brought many of our projects to life, includin g the Christmas fair, the Advent Gas troPicnic event, a skating rink, the winter Sailing Com petition series or the LelleBoglár Tekergő electric shuttle service. For this year, we are also installing a panoramic sauna on the lake, the first of its kind in Balaton with dire ct access to the water.

A skating rink will also be set up at Szigliget beach and the Badacsony region welcom es a Christmas fair.

An increasing number of peo ple are interested in visiting Balaton during autu mn and winter. Balaton is not just for July and August.

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Borbély Family Winery

SPAS AND R ELAXATION

RIES 5 WINE CAN YOU WHERE OVER STAY

BENCZE FAMILY ESTATE This estate by bucolic Szent György hill awaits with fine glasses of Riesling and Pinot Noir, and five guesthouses, one a converted press house built in 1807. Hegymagas, Mókus körút. benczebirtok.hu BORBÉLY FAMILY WINERY This recently renovated guesthouse is hidden in the middle of this renowned family estate. In winter, weekending guests are shown industry techniques and traditions.

Badacsonytomaj, Káptalantóti út 19. borbelypince.hu LISZKAY ESTATE Spending the weekend at this idyllic estate is a luxurious experience. A Finnish sauna, a sundeck and a roaring fire await, along with a 350-yearold wine cellar. Monoszló, 482. liszkay.com

During winter, wineries are less crowded with visitors and so more accessible for intimate tasting events. If you’re lucky, the winemaker may even do the presentation himself. Some wineries offer overnight stays but accommodating large groups may be tricky.

Reservations are recommended well in advance.

VÁLIBOR With a focus on gastronomy and wine, this rustic 12-person guesthouse at the edge of the Káli Basin lays on a top-notch breakfast of salami, cheese and eggs, all produced on-site. BadacsonytomajBadacsonyörs, Major utca 46. valibor.hu VILLA TOLNAY Ten kilometres from Balaton in castle-topped Csobánc, the winery of Swiss winemaker Philipp Oser offers outstanding Rieslings and accommodation ideal for romantic weekends.

Gyulakeszi, Csobánc hegy 24. villatolnay.hu

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Balatonakarattya

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Aura Hotel

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3 SPAS WITH EXOTIC ATTRACTIONS

3 GREAT PICNIC SPOTS ON THE SOUTH SHORE

AURA HOTEL Those who book a room in this hotel can take advantage of a spa facility where anti-stress massages use authentic techniques and natural materials. Four types of sauna, too. Balatonfüred, Munkácsy Mihály utca 5. aura-hotel.hu

BALATONAKARATTYA This easternmost corner of Lake Balaton provides a pretty panorama of surrounding towns and shore.

Take a stroll along the promenade and head down to the lake for the view. Balatonakarattya, Kisfaludy sétány

HOTEL ZENA At this luxurious contemporary boutique hotel and retail centre in the middle of Héviz, massage treatments include chocolate, lava-stone and lomi lomi from Hawaii.

Hévíz, Széchenyi utca 6. zenaheviz.hu

CSIGA-TÚRA Following the signposts of the Csiga-Túra (‘Snail Trail’), you can get close to nature and take advantage of the soundboards to recognise differing birdsong as you stroll. Zalakaros, Parkerdő

ZENIT HOTEL BALATON Vinotherapy, including a wine bath, is one of many features at this refined spot surrounded by verdant highlands. At weekends, sauna presentations showcase exotic aromas. Vonyarcvashegy, Helikon utca 22. hotelzenit.hu 128

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FONYÓD’S FREE BEACHES Without the crowds of high summer, you can take advantage of relaxing on the waterfront at Fonyód, laying out your picnic blanket to take in the beautiful Balaton panorama.

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Balatonfüred

3 TOP SPA DESTINATIONS BALATONFÜRED This is one of the most popular Balaton destinations where life doesn’t stop in winter either. Several hotels near the lake offer spa services to soothe body and soul. Balatonfüred. balatonfured.info.hu HÉVÍZ Europe’s largest thermal lake attracts visitors all year round thanks to its naturally warm waters. Several hotels await with saunas, salt caves and all kinds of therapies. Hévíz. heviz.hu ZALAKAROS Although it doesn’t have thermal waters like Hévíz the other side of Kis-Balaton, Zalakaros attracts families who can soak away while the kids dive into the water park. Zalakaros. zalakaros.hu

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THE SIÓ CHANNEL The Sió is an artificial channel connecting Lake Balaton with the Danube river. If you think of Balaton as a big sink that sometimes overflows, Sió is its drain. For centuries, the water levels at Balaton used to rise by several metres so even the Romans made attempts to drain the lake back in the day. Today, there is a maximum limit to which the water level can increase before it floods any of the surrounding area. If Balaton overfills, thanks to the Sió Channel, the excess water duly flows down the Danube. The Sió also helps bigger boats reach Lake Balaton from Budapest. During the dry months, the channel is normally out of use. Between 2000 and 2005, the lake did not have to be drained for five years.

But in winter, sometimes enormous volumes of water are drained from the lake every day. Renovations are due to start on the big lock at Siófok, to be finished by 2021.

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Horse riding

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GO HORSE RIDING Loping along the Balaton Uplands on horseback is a great experience. You can find a suitable four-legged friend at Balatonszőlős, Nemesvita, Balatonalmádi or Salföld.

5 ALTERNATIVE IDEAS FOR CHILLING AT BALATON IN WINTER GO SAILING As long as the water doesn’t freeze over, sailing doesn’t stop at Balaton. Hire a dinghy or a bigger boat with an experienced captain and you’re set to explore the lake.

Koloska Valley

EXPLORE THE KOLOSKA VALLEY A little time in the wildlife park, a woodland walk, a meal in a renowned Hungarian restaurant followed by a climb up a lookout tower make this the perfect day out.

Balatonfüred, Koloska-völgy

HIKE IN THE WOODS Instead of soaking away in thermal waters, a walk amid nature is a great way to spend time. A trek around the forest atop the Badacsony hills is lovely whatever the season.

VISIT BAKONYBÉL This tiny little village north of Veszprém is the perfect spot for a quiet getaway. Forests, caves, museums, a chapel, a monastery and a little lake all await. Bakonybél. bakonybel.hu 134

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This publication is the intellectual property of We Love Publishing Kft. Reproduction in full or in part is strictly prohibited. Our team has paid particular attention to the accuracy of all the information within but we accept no responsibility or liability for any changes which may have occurred. info@welovebalaton.hu Budapest, 2018

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