We Love Hungary Pocket Guide Spring/Summer 2018

DINING WINE FESTIVALS

SPRING — SUMMER

2018

INTRODUCTION Like its showcase capital Budapest and prime resort of Balaton, Hungary has been transformed. No, its charm hasn’t changed, its timeless landscapes, its history, its vineyards. The locals are warm and accommodating, the pace of life appealing, the food rich and spicy. Nature and tradition are never far away. But a wave of invention has swept the wine cellars, restaurants and hotels of the

countryside. Just as our online magazine and free guides, We Love Budapest and We Love Balaton, cover the latest openings and happenings there, so We Love Hungary highlights today’s provincial trends, events and venues.

Focusing on four key destinations – Sopron, Tokaj, Debrecen and Eger – and surrounding regions, we span Hungary from Lake Fertő to Hortobágy to show you all the colour, character and current reinvention of this eternally fascinating country.

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS

CONTENTS Introduction.. . ............................................................................. 2 Map.. . . . . . . . . . . . . ........................................................................... 14

3 great tour suggestions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Explainer – Lake Fertő. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 3 panoramic vantage points.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

SOPRON & AROUND

5 suggestions for great days out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

7 great things to do. .................... ............................................... 20

TOKAJ & AROUND

Sopron road trip for a great weekend away. ................................... 22 5 sights in downtown Sopron. . ..................................................... 24

10 best things to do in Tokaj. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60

7 great historic attractions. .......................................................... 26

Tokaj road trip for a great weekend away.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

Explainer – City loyalty............................................................... 28

10 sights in & around Tokaj. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

7 fantastic restaurants in Sopron... ............................................... 30

7 outstanding restaurants.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68

7 best hotels & lodgings.............................................................. 32

7 Tokaji wines for summer.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

5 summer events & attractions..................................................... 34

Interview with estate manager Kata Zsirai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Interview with festival founder Norbert Lobenwein. ........................ 36

3 perfect hangouts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

7 outstanding local Kékfrankos wines. ........................................... 38

5 top wine terraces. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

10 spots for relaxed dining & drinking. .......................................... 40

Interview with winemaker Zoltán Demeter.. . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

3 great restaurants outside Sopron................................................ 42

Explainer – How Tokaji aszú is made. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

3 great restaurants over the border. .............................................. 43

5 summer events & attractions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

5 fine sights outside Sopron. . ........ ...............................................44

3 atmospheric castle ruins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

7 reasons to hop over the border.................................................. 46

7 top hotels & lodgings.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

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5 great tours & excursions............ ............................................... 88 5 perfect panoramic views. . .........................................................90 3 great things to do with kids....................................................... 92

EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK 10 unmissable attractions around the Mátra & the Bükk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Mátra-Bükk road trip for a great weekend away. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

DEBRECEN & AROUND

10 unmissable sights in Eger. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

7 unmissable attractions in & around Debrecen. .............................. 98 Debrecen road trip for a great weekend away. .............................. 100 Explainer – Tram number 1. . ...................................................... 102 3 memorable museums. ........................................................... 104 7 buildings brimming with local history. ...................................... 106 Explainer – Literary Debrecen. ...... ..............................................108 7 hikes & bike rides to nearby nature............................................ 110 7 outstanding restaurants in & around Debrecen. ........................... 112 5 top street-food spots in town................................................... 114 3 atmospheric & relaxing cafés.................................................... 116 3 great places for Debrecener sausages. ......................................... 117 Interview with restaurateur Károly Balogh..................................... 118 5 unique Debrecen hotels. . ......................................................... 120 5 fantastic festivals in & around Debrecen. .................................... 122 7 great ways to discover Hortobágy.............................................. 124

7 great dining destinations.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 7 spots to sample top wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Explainer – Revolution in the Valley of Beautiful Women.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 5 great places to stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 5 great tours of the Bükk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 5 great tours of the Mátra.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 Explainer – Eger, pioneer of aviation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR Bratislava. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Prague. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Warsaw. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 The Visegrád menu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Beyond the capitals.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

7 top destinations around Lake Tisza. ........................................... 126

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Attracting a record 10 million guest stays in 2017, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Summer sees the city transformed by music festivals and alfresco events.

Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

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Throughout 2018, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

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Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort.

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Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English.

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CUSTOM PUBLISHING Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

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With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

WELCOME TO HUNGARY! Visitors from the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days in Hungary.

The Hungarian currency is the forint (HUF). Currently, there are 315 forints to €1, 365 forints to £1 and 270 forints to $1.

A beer costs about 600 HUF/€2.

Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter. Most service staff speak English.

HUNGARY BY PLANE Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km south-east of the capital.

Budapest terminals 2A or 2B are in adjacent buildings. Outside, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to the city centre, a journey costing about 7,500 HUF/€24.

Past the taxi booth, a crowd will be milling around a bus stop.

Alongside, a ticket machine accepts cash (in forints) and credit cards, and gives change.

The two buses here need different tickets. Swifter but less frequent 100E requires a 900-HUF (€2.80) ticket – look out for the plane logo on the option menu. This runs every 30 minutes into the city centre, calling at Kálvin tér, Astoria and Deák tér.

Allow 40min to 1hr journey time.

The other airport bus stop is for the 200E, running every 7 minutes to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (journey time 25min).

This is on blue metro line M3, currently served by replacement buses at weekends and after 8.35pm weekdays. The 200E bus requires a standard BKK transport ticket (350 HUF/€1.10), as does the onward journey from the metro station to town.

HUNGARY BY TRAIN The four main train stations in Budapest are Keleti, Nyugati, Déli and Kelenföld. Each has a metro station of the same name, on the capital’s colour-coded four-line network.

Trains are run by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) and can be bought online (registration required) or from ticket offices at stations, foreign credit cards accepted.

Seat reservations are required for faster InterCity services, such as the one to Debrecen (2hr 40min journey time).

HUNGARY BY BUS Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provides direct services to destinations which trains cannot reach. Tickets can be bought online or from the main bus station in Budapest at Népliget, on metro line 3.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

VOCABULARY

Many areas of Hungary are perfect for cyclists, with more than 2,000 kilometres of routes, tours and trails. Cycle hire is also possible in all major towns.

Yes igen (ee-gen) No nem (nemm) Good morning Jó reggelt (Yo reg-gelt) Good day Jó napot (Yo na-pot) Good evening Jó estét (Yo esh-tayt) Good night Jó éjszakát (Yo ey-sak-kaht) Goodbye Viszontlátásra (vis-sont-lah-tahsh-rra) Bye Viszlát (vis-slaht) Hi/bye Szia (see-ya) Please Kérem (kair-rem) Thank you Köszönöm (kur-sur-numm) Thanks Köszi (kur-see) How much is Mennyibe kerül (men-nyi-beh kair-ruel) One egy (edj) Two két/kettő (kayt/ket-turr) Three három (hahr-rum) Four négy (naidj) Five öt (urt) Six hat (hot) Seven hét (hayt) Eight nyolc (nyolts) Nine kilenc (kee-lents) Ten tíz (teez) Twenty húsz (hooss) Hundred száz (sahzz) Thousand ezer (ezzer) Two thousand kétezer (kayt-ezzer) Ten thousand tízezer (teez-ezzer)

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HUNGARY BY CAR Hungary has more than a dozen motorways, the main ones being the M1 between Budapest and the Austrian border, the M3 east from Budapest, the M7 between Budapest and Lake Balaton, and the M0 ring road.

There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (hungary-vignette.eu) or at any petrol station. Minimum validity period is ten days (3,000 HUF/€9.40).

HUNGARY BY BIKE

WE LOVE HUNGARY

Where is… Hol van (hohl vahn) Restaurant étterem (eyt-ter-em) Menu étlap (eyt-lapp) Lunch ebéd (eb-bayd) Dinner vacsora (vatch-ora) Vegetarian vegetáriánus (veg-ge-tayr-ri-ah-nush) Table asztal (ass-tahl) Wine bor (borr) Beer sör (shurr) Water víz (veez) Coffee kávé (kah-vay) Sugar cukor (tsook-korr) Milk tej (tay) Knife kés (kaysh) Fork villa (vil-la) Spoon kanál (kan-nahl) Teaspoon kiskanál (kish-kan-nahl) Plate tányér (tahn-yairr) Saucer csészealj (tchay-se-ay) Bill számla (sahm-la) The bill, please A számlát kérem (Uh sahm-laht kair-rem) Tip borravaló (borr-ah-vah-lo) Airport repülőtér (rep-puhl-urr-tair) Train station pályaudvar (pie-ya-ood-vahr) Smaller station állomás (ahl-lo-mahsh) Train vonat (von-naht) Bus busz (buss) Tram villamos (vil-la-mosh) Petrol/gas station benzinkút (ben-zinn-koot) 13

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

HUNGARY

BY REGION TOKAJ & AROUND (p56-p92) EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK (p128-p151)

SOPRON & AROUND (p16-p55)

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DEBRECEN & AROUND (p94-p127)

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SOPRON & AROUND

ARRIVAL • • By car: From Budapest, Sopron is 2.5hrs

away by car, half the journey on the M1 motorway, turning off for the A4/E60.

Rich in historic monuments, Sopron is known for its loyalty to Hungary after World War I –and for its Kékfrankos wine.

Nearby Lake Fertő attracts cyclists and nature lovers. Just over the water, Austria has long shaped the everyday life of locals, with constant traffic between Vienna and Budapest.

• • By train: Services leave Budapest Keleti

every 2hrs, journey time 2hrs 30min.

ATTRACTIONS A weekend is enough to explore Sopron and Lake Fertő – Vienna is just an hour away.

USEFUL WEBSITES • • prokultura.hu • • mindenamisopron.hu • • sopron.hu

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SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRON & AROUND

FERTŐRÁKOS CAVE THEATRE

LAKE FERTŐ

FORCHTENSTEIN BURG

ESTERHÁZY PALACE

SOPRON OLD TOWN

SZÉCHENYI MANSION

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SOPRON & AROUND

Bike around Lake Fertő

SOPRON & AROUND

TASTE THE BEST THE AREA HAS TO OFFER Try babsterc bean stew at Erhardt, chocolate at Harrer’s and wines at Tastevino.

In Schützen, on the Austrian side of Lake Fertő, there’s Michelinstarred Taubenkobel.

VISIT A MAD CASTLE Nicknamed Bolondvár (‘Mad Castle’) after its complex development and eccentric appearance, Taród on the outskirts of Sopron was featured in a Hungarian film from the 1980s.

Harrer

WAKE UP WITH BIRDS At Fertő-Hanság National Park near Sopron, you might find yourself bird watching at dawn or taking a canoe tour amid the reeds. It’s perfect for nature photographers, too.

7 GREAT THINGS TO DO BIKE AROUND LAKE FERTŐ Cycling round Lake Fertő is never easy with something at every turn: the Memorial of the Pan-European Picnic, Esterházy Castle and Balf fish restaurant all merit a detour.

DRINK A BEER IN CHURCH Right by the Austrian border, in Görbehalom, stands the only church in Hungary with a tavern in the basement. It’s also the only pub within a 15km radius of Görbehalom.

SCALE THE FIRE TOWER After observing the figures of prisoners at the base of the tower on the walls of the former cellar jail, head up the spiral staircase for a memorable panorama.

SEE WHERE NIKI LAUDA RACED Sopron’s racetrack was set up for Formula Vee cars in 1969 on today’s Lővér körút. The race was won by a young Niki Lauda, crowned Formula 1 world champion six years later.

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SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRON & AROUND

Road Trip SOPRON ROAD TRIP FOR A GREAT WEEKEND AWAY

FRIDAY You can start your long weekend on the Castle Walk promenade, before a pleasant walk around the city centre and visit to the Fire Tower. For lunch or dinner, you must try local bean stew babsterc, ideally at Erhardt, accompanied by a glass of Kékfrankos from the Weninger Winery.

For dessert, head to the Dömötöri Confectionery, with its signature black ice cream in black cones.

SATURDAY In the morning, start the day with a decent coffee at Kultúrpresszó.

After popping into Kecske Church, head to Gyógygödör for its marrow-tripe toast, before making for the green expanse of Lővérek. From the high Károly Lookout, you get a spectacular view of Lake Fertő and Austria. Reward yourself for your exertions with dinner at Gázfröccs or the Kocka Bistro.

SUNDAY Having packed your swimsuit, cycle to Lake Fertő. You can wet your whistle in villages on the Austrian side such as Mörbisch and Rust, while Podersdorf and Illmitzen are more suitable for bathing. For lunch, make for Ráspi in Fetrőrákos, before a trip to the Harrer Chocolate Workshop by way of bookending the weekend.

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Old Synagogue

SOPRON & AROUND

Kecske Church

SOPRON & AROUND

PONCICHTER QUARTER Accessed via Festő köz, the Poncichter quarter housed local wine growers. Key sights include Két mór House and Szent Mihály Church, once visited by King Matthias.

5 SIGHTS IN DOWNTOWN SOPRON CASTLE DISTRICT Between 2009 and 2016, Sopron’s Castle District was completely renovated. Ample cafés and restaurants now allow you to take a break and consider your next move.

Downtown Sopron

SZÉCHENYI TÉR In this square, Két-pék Lake was where shoddy bakers were thrown in as punishment. The lake was later drained and, by the 1900s, trams were running across it.

FŐ TÉR Coming to the heart of Sopron, the atmosphere of Fő tér, the city’s main square, will always remain with you. Nearby are the Fire Tower, the Museum Quarter and Kecske Church.

OLD SYNAGOGUE Few medieval synagogues in Europe have preserved their Gothic style – Sopron’s on Új utca is one of them. Abandoned in the 1500s, it was restored in modern times.

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SOPRON & AROUND

Forum Scarbantiae

SOPRON & AROUND

PHARMACY MUSEUM The interior of the former Angel Pharmacy is more than 200 years old. On display is a certificate signed by influential 19th-century physician Ignác Semmelweis. Sopron, Fő tér 2. sopronimuzeum.hu STORNO HOUSE Swiss-born Ferenc Storno – a chimney sweep by trade – lived and worked here, creating beautiful drawings and designing objects for, among others, Archduke Leopold Habsburg.

Sopron, Fő tér 8. sopronimuzeum.hu ZETTL-LANGER COLLECTION Few flats contain paintings by Veronese, Courtois and Dorffmeister, and original prints by Rembrandt and Dürer – or Roman artefacts, porcelain and weaponry.

Sopron, Balfi út 11. zettl-langer.atw.hu

BAKERY MUSEUM There was a bakery here in the Poncichter quarter back in the 16th century. They have kept the original equipment for us to see how artisanal families lived then. Sopron, Bécsi utca 5. sopronimuzeum.hu

Mining Museum

7 GREAT HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS

FABRICIUS HOUSE-ROMAN STONE COLLECTION Items relate to antiquity and domestic life in the 17th and 18th centuries. Here, after his jailbreak, Hungarian poet Petőfi shed his prison clothes to go and see Liszt play. Sopron, Fő tér 6. sopronimuzeum.hu FORUM SCARBANTIAE The last remains of ancient Sopron are found 4.5 metres below the city centre. The only authentic forum of Roman Pannonia that we know of lies here at basement level.

Sopron, Új utca 1. sopronimuzeum.hu MINING MUSEUM Incongruously set in the Baroque Esterházy Palace, this exhibition on the history of Hungarian mining contains a tunnel dating back to the early 20th century. Sopron, Templom utca 2. sopronimuzeum.hu 26

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CITY LOYALTY In the immediate aftermath of World War I, the Paris Peace Conference initially awarded Sopron and surrounding villages to Austria. After local unrest, it was decided to hold a referendum on the matter. In December 1921, 72% of Sopron citizens, and 65% of the population in the region, voted that the territory should stay with Hungary. This was the only major territorial revision of the Treaty of Trianon, which had otherwise awarded huge swathes of Greater Hungary to newly independent neighbouring countries. Most German-speaking citizens here also chose to stay.

Sopron was duly granted the status of Civitas Fidelissima, or ‘Most Loyal Town’. On the southern part of Sopron’s iconic Fire Tower, a Loyalty Gate was built in commemoration.

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SOPRON & AROUND

Deák Restaurant

SOPRON & AROUND

ERHARDT RESTAURANT Erhardt and the local bean dish of babsterc are synonymous, dining best enjoyed with a glass of wine beneath the walnut tree on the terrace. There’s lodging, too. Sopron, Balfi utca 10. erhardts.hu PAPA JOE’S SALOON & STEAKHOUSE People come to Papa Joe’s in Sopron’s Castle District for exquisite steak, prepared just how you like by serious meat masters. Alongside, choose from 100 whiskeys.

Sopron, Várkerület 108. papajoe.hu PUSKÁS RESTAURANT Part pub, part restaurant, the Puskás in the Castle District offers the best Bavarian barbecue trotters in town. Plot up in the courtyard or outside on the terrace. Sopron, Várkerület 83. puskasrestaurant.hu

DEÁK RESTAURANT Set where a legendary nightspot once stood in the 1890s, on a large square. Look out for the daily changing weekday menu. Garden space lovely on warm summer evenings.

Sopron, Erzsébet utca 20. terciarestaurants.hu/deaketterem

Erhardt Restaurant

7 FANTASTIC RESTAURANTS IN SOPRON

VADÁSZKÜRT RESTAURANT This home-style kitchen is run by a couple who also cook and serve. Recommended are the carp-fish soup with beans and cabbage, and the cvekedli, cabbage noodles.

Sopron, Udvarnoki utca 6. vadaszkurt.hu

DIÓ GROCERY STORE & HOME COOKING For healthy eats, Dió is the best choice. Open daytimes during the week and Saturday mornings, it offers two types of soup or main courses for lunch. Friendly service.

Sopron, Ógabona tér 44–46.

EL GUSTO GOURMET The flagship of the three-outlet El Gusto chain is set in Sopron’s Castle District, where a morning’s sightseeing can be bookended by a light salad, a pizza or a burger.

Sopron, Várkerület 79. elgusto.hu 30

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Madárlátta Guesthouse

SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRONBÁNFALVA PÁLOS-CARMELITE MONASTERY Here you find an oasis of tranquillity up a statue-lined staircase leading to a monastery built in the late 1400s. The restaurant has just reopened.

Sopron, Kolostorhegy utca 2. banfalvakolostor.hu

Pannonia Hotel

HOTEL SZIESZTA If you love retro and fresh air, you’ll love staying here in the Lővérek woods. Along with the ancient forest around you, there’s a great view of the city and Lake Fertő. Sopron, Lővér körút 37. hotelszieszta.hu

7 BEST HOTELS & LODGINGS ERHARDT PENSION In Sopron, Zoltán Erhardt and family are famous for striving for quality in everything. This pension and restaurant in the Poncichter district provide the perfect example.

Sopron, Balfi utca 10. erhardts.hu MADÁRLÁTTA GUESTHOUSE Near Fertő-Hanság National Park, 15km from Sopron, Madárlátta Guesthouse offers tasteful comfort, free cycle hire and private parking, plus a garden and BBQ facilities.

Fertőrákos, Fő utca 254. madarlattavendeghaz.com

TORNÁCOS PENSION The award-winning Tornácos not only provides affordable, comfortable accommodation but also homemade confectionery. Meals are prepared with locally sourced produce. Hegykő, Kossuth Lajos utca 74. tornacos.hu

PANNONIA HOTEL In this pristine hotel in downtown Sopron, rooms feature unique antique furniture. After a relaxing afternoon in the spa, you can recline on the rooftop terrace. Sopron, Várkerület 75. pannoniahotel.com

HOTEL WOLLNER At this romantic hotel run by the Wollner family, you’re close to Sopron’s most beautiful sights. Ancient Roman features augment this 300-year-old Baroque landmark.

Sopron, Templom utca 20. wollner.hu

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Fertőrákos Cave Theatre

SOPRON & AROUND

VOLT Festival

SOPRON & AROUND

VOLT FESTIVAL Celebrating its 26th year, Sopron’s legendary VOLT Festival now encompasses several stages and an open-air cinema. Main acts are Depeche Mode, Iron Maiden and Limp Bizkit. June 26-30. volt.hu

5 SUMMER EVENTS & ATTRACTIONS SOPRON FESTIVAL WEEKS Running for more than a month, the streets of Sopron’s historic centre are taken over by concerts, performances and exhibitions in this annual celebration.

June 8-July 15. prokultura.hu/hu/soproni-unnepi-hetek ESTERHÁZY PALACE All kinds of events take place over the summer at the Esterházy Palace in Fertőd, including tours and exhibitions.

Concerts are staged where Haydn lived and worked for many decades. eszterhaza.hu

Esterházy Palace

TÍZFORRÁS FESTIVAL Ten days of concerts, open-air films, tours and craft displays take place in the pretty surroundings of Hegykő, starting off with the world music sounds of Besh o droM. July 13-22. hegyko.hu

FERTŐRÁKOS CAVE THEATRE The acoustics of this unique cave theatre bring out the jazz drums of Billy Cobham, the gravel voice of rocker Charlie and Italian-language Verdi. Pack warm clothes.

June 17-Sept 15. fertorakosikofejto.hu/hu/barlangszinhaz 34

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Norbert Lobenwein started the VOLT Festival with his friend, Zoltán Fülöp, in the early 1990s.

This year Depeche Mode open the event.

WLH: What does Sopron mean to you and what do you remember about the first festi val?

NL: With my friend Zoli Fülöp, we launched the Telekom VOLT Festival at 19 in Sopron, whe re we were born. When we started the festival after finis hing secondary school, we were mainly motivated to show our friends, in our own town, that the buzz and atmosph ere you find in Budapest can be created here. Back then , it was a house party for 800 people – now 150,000 come.

WLH: How do performers find Sopron?

t r e b r No nwein

NL: A couple of years ago on You Tube, we saw Fred Durst, the singer of Limp Bizkit, with his kid and a bodyguard, going shopping in the local Tesc o before his concert. His fans were watching but someon e actually filmed it.

DJ Steve Aoki also had a walk around Sopron city centre, popping into local pubs and goin g up the Fire Tower.

Lobe

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Sopron Wine

SOPRON & AROUND

Ráspi Winery

SOPRON & AROUND

PFNEISZL ESTATE Birgit and Katrin took over this winery from the parents in 2006, and now work year-round here in their vineyard.

Birgit is a pioneer of organic farming in Hungary Sopron, Kőszegi út 81. pfneiszl.hu

7 OUTSTANDING LOCAL KÉKFRANKOS WINES LUKA WINERY Enikő Luka farms three hectares on a hill between Fertőrákos and Balf. In summer, English-language wine tastings on the BorBonBon Terrace accommodate up to 20 guests.

Fertőrákos, Szent Sebestény utca 49. lukawine.com OROSZ-LINZER WINERY This winery in Fertőrákos bearing the names of Csaba and Péter Orosz, and Sámuel Linzer, honours its Ponzichter predecessors, which means with great heart and soul. Fertőrákos, Fő utca 95. winelife.hu 38

In the past, a Buschenschank was a country wine bar whose owner could only sell his own wine. In addition, they served various dishes: sausages, bacon, roasts, cheeses, creams and, of course, the pickles and grated horseradish that were essential to any local menu. The wine bars echoing the memory of these old Sopron Buschenschanks can still be found around the city today. These include the Caesar Wine Cellar, the Bruckner Wine Cellar, the Prinyő and the renowned Gyógygödör on the main square of Fő tér.

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RÁSPI WINERY Anyone who knows Ráspi knows that he doesn’t bend to market forces but respects nature and the raw ingredients it can provide. He runs a decent restaurant here, too. Fertőrákos, Fő utca 72. raspi.hu VINCELLÉR WINERY Here the three owners – Tibor Molnár, Pál Pieler and István Sásdi – oversee some 45 hectares in Fertőboz.

The wine called Fizzi Miska is always a popular summer choice.

Fertőboz, Fő utca 30. vinceller.com WENINGER WINERY If any family takes their winery seriously, it’s this one. The Weningers have been in the business for 35 years, their wineries run for many years by Franz and Petra. Balf, Fő utca 23; Austria: Horitschon, Florianigasse 11. weninger.com WETZER WINERY Here you’ll find the unique flavours of Kékfrankos and Pinot Noir from Kohlenberg, Harmler-dűlő and the Ság vineyard, which dates back to the best part of a century. Sopron, Brennbergi út 6C. wetzer-bor.com 2018 / SPRING — SUMMER

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Kultúrpresszó

SOPRON & AROUND

KÉGLI GARDEN Fóti craft beer? Fine cheese to go with your wine? A slice of cake? A bacon sandwich, maybe a barbecue with your mates? Whatever you’re after, the Kégli should satisfy.

Sopron, Ady Endre út 33. keglikert.hu KULTÚRPRESSZÓ Is this Budapest? Berlin? Iconic photographer Robert Capa would have loved it… For those on a paleo diet or just like decent coffee and sandwiches, here’s where to come. Sopron, Várkerület 96. kulturpresszo.hu KOCKA BISTRO For a decent burger or burrito, plus a refreshing drink to go with it, you’ll find it at Kocka. Locals swear by the pulled pork – but look out for the weekly specials. Sopron, Deák tér. kockabistro.hu KOFFER WINE&BAR In addition to the best wines in the region, here you find the finest from around Hungary. All is served in customised units rather than conventional measures. Sopron, Ikvahíd utca 1. kofferbar.hu

10 SPOTS FOR RELAXED DINING & DRINKING DÖMÖTÖRI CAFÉ & CONFECTIONERY In business since 1992, this traditional confectionery has its own special atmosphere, but they’re not afraid to take risks – note the black ice cream in a black cone.

Sopron, Széchenyi tér 13. domotoricukraszda.hu GÁZFRÖCCS Designed to be a ruin pub, Gázfröccs is much more intimate than that. In an authentic family house with a lovely inner courtyard, you can sip spritzers under the trees.

Sopron, Deák tér 28. gazfroccs.com HARRER CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP & CONFECTIONERY They’ve been making chocolate in this Sopron workshop for ten years. You can make your own truffles, pick a selection box, sip a coffee and take in the panorama. Sopron, Faller Jenő utca 4. harrerchocolat.com 40

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MUSEUM CAFÉ An easy hop from the Fire Tower, enjoy fine coffee and cookies while watching people come and go. Take a book onto the terrace, overlooking the Castle Wall promenade.

Sopron, Előkapu 2–7. museumcafesopron.hu TASTEVINO Sopron means Kékfrankos. But if you want to sample something else, then pay a visit to the vinothèque of sommelier Szabolcs Lukács, who knows about the best local wines.

Sopron, Várkerület 5. tastevino.hu VOLT CAFÉ This spot on a grassy slope brings the VOLT Festival to the city. There may be food stalls, there may be a barbecue party – or just find your own spot on the grass. Sopron, Deák tér 43. facebook.com/VOLTCAFE

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Taubenkobel

SOPRON & AROUND

Ráspi Restaurant

SOPRON & AROUND

3 GREAT RESTAURANTS OUTSIDE SOPRON

3 GREAT RESTAURANTS OVER THE BORDER

BALFI FISH RESTAURANT Come here to sample the bounty of Lake Fertő. The fish greaves with red onion is great, the marinated fish too, while the fish soup is probably the best in the area.

Balf, Fő utca 2. halaszcsarda-balf.hu

MOLE WEST On the Austrian side of Lake Fertő, on the pier, sailboats and sunset embellish the panorama while you tuck into fine delicacies.

Make sure you book in good time. Neusiedl am See, Seegelände 9. mole-west.at

HAUS IM SEE After a fire, the Eselböcks have reopened their restaurant at the end of the pier line. The unique view and fish dishes draw diners over by sailboat from the Austrian shore.

Fertőrákos Pier. hausimsee.at

SEERESTAURANT KATAMARAN Some 20 minutes from Sopron, the two-storey Katamaran at Rust offers dining and drinking right above the waters of Lake Fertő. In summer, they stage concerts as well.

Rust, Ruster Bucht 1. restaurant-katamaran.at

RÁSPI RESTAURANT Most know Ráspi for his wines, but at his restaurant in Fertőrákos, his alter ego József Horváth does all the cooking. Dishes created from own wines include liver dumplings.

Fertőrákos, Fő utca 72. raspi.hu

TAUBENKOBEL One hour from Sopron, Barbara Eselböck and Alain Weissgerber’s Michelin-starred restaurant is worth the trip. Currently, they have a lunch menu offered at €68. Schützen, Hauptstrasse 31-33. taubenkobel.com

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Széchenyi Mansion

SOPRON & AROUND

Fertőrákosi Quarry & Cave Theatre

SOPRON & AROUND

PAN-EUROPEAN PICNIC MEMORIAL Here in August 1989, the border between Hungary and Austria, Eastern Europe and the West, was opened. A sculptural composition by Miklós Melocco marks the spot.

Fertőrákos. paneuropaipiknik.hu SZÉCHENYI MANSION IN NAGYCENK This Baroque pile houses the memorial museum of ‘the Greatest Hungarian’, István Széchenyi, responsible for the Chain Bridge and the Academy of Sciences in Budapest. Nagycenk, Kiscenki út 3. szechenyiorokseg.hu

BISHOP’S PALACE AT FERTŐRÁKOS This Baroque landmark once accommodated the bishops of Győr, who could flee to the nearby forest through a 700-metre-long tunnel in case the Turks threatened to invade. Fertőrákos, Fő utca 153. facebook.com/fertorakospuspokipalota ESTERHÁZY PALACE Considered the Hungarian Versailles, this Rococo confection dates back to the 1700s, when Haydn lived here for many years. Concerts, tours and exhibitions are staged today.

Fertőd-Eszterháza, Joseph Haydn utca 2. eszterhaza.hu

Esterházy Palace in Fertőd

5 FINE SIGHTS OUTSIDE SOPRON

FERTŐRÁKOSI QUARRY & CAVE THEATRE Observe sharks, whales and dolphins at Fertőrákos Quarry, where the Miocene era is brought to life on the rocky wall. Bring warm clothes for evening concerts.

Fertőrákos, Fő utca 1. fertorakosikofejto.hu 44

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FORCHTENSTEIN BURG Everywhere you look here, you run into the Esterházy clan. The treasury, archives and the weaponry of the prince’s army should appeal to adults and kids alike. Forchtenstein, Melinda Esterhazy Platz 1. facebook.com/Burg.Forchtenstein

7 REASONS TO HOP OVER THE BORDER ESTERHÁZY CASTLE For 300 years, this was the seat of the Esterházy dynasty – Haydn also stayed here.

Today, they await visitors with classical music concerts and summer festivals. Eisenstadt, Esterhazyplatz 5. esterhazy.at FAMILY PARK Enchanting visitors with characters from fairy tales, play areas, ropeways and even a private zoo, the Family Park offers 14.5 hectares of fun and excitement.

St Margarethen, Märchenparkweg 1. familypark.at 46

Steinbruch St. Margarethen

SOPRON & AROUND

Family Park

SOPRON & AROUND

PUCHBERG AM SCHNEEBERG At this cosy Alpine settlement, the cogwheel railway and National Park provide perfect days out. Don’t miss the Sebastian Falls either, a short walk from town. puchberg.at

The Pan-European Picnic Memorial Site 3km from Sopronkőhida lies just where it was before the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 – a historic event that occurred as a direct result of the scenes here that momentous summer. Hungarian opposition parties helped hundreds of East Germans break through the fence, and thus cross into the West. The site is marked with a statue by Miklós Melocco.

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SEEFESTSPIELE MÖRBISCH Lake Fertő provides the gorgeous backdrop for one of the world’s largest open-air stages. Between July 12th and August 25th, it hosts the operetta ‘Countess Maritza’. seefestspiele-moerbisch.at SONNENTHERME LUTZMANNSBURG This superb bathing area will appeal to children and adults alike, with swimming pools for all ages.

You’ll also find the longest indoor slides in Austria. Lutzmannsburg, Thermengelände 1. sonnentherme.at STEINBRUCH ST MARGARETHEN Perhaps one of the world’s coolest Roman stone quarries is today a concert venue, this summer hosting the likes of Tom Jones, Sting, Kraftwerk and Jack Johnson & Milow. St Margarethen. operimsteinbruch.at 2018 / SPRING — SUMMER

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SOPRON & AROUND

3 GREAT TOUR SUGGESTIONS FERTŐ-HANSÁG NATIONAL PARK Canoeing amid the reeds, bird watching at dawn, fishing – everything puts you close to nature. And, given the right winds, ideal for sailors and surfers, too. ferto-hansag.hu LAKE FERTŐ After cycling past Tómalom baths, you reach the lake by skirting Fertőrákos Quarry, a good day’s bike ride. If 130km is too ambitious, make use of the Fertő ferry. neusiedlersee.com

Lake Fertő

LŐVÉR ADVENTURE PARK At this nature-themed adventure park, you can soar to a height of eight to ten metres between the trees of Sopron Forest Park, while overcoming 130 obstacles. loverkalandpark.hu

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LAKE FERTŐ This lake holds legendary status in Hungary. Ghosts, lights, floods and aridity surround it. The most famous arid period came in the middle of the 19th century when the lake disappeared for three years. But its floods have also given rise to rumours: allegedly Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa was taken away by her ships up to the Esterházy Palace in Fertőd. On various tours, you can discover the wild water world of the lake, but if you would like to enjoy the scenery from dry land, you can go round the lake in a day. Even if you stop several times on the way at a restaurant or landmark. In the summer heat, you can cool off with fine wines and a few dips in the water.

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SOPRON & AROUND

SOPRON & AROUND

3 PANORAMIC VANTAGE POINTS

MUCK LOOKOUT Set at a height of 522 metres, Muck Lookout requires a certain effort to reach. You can start from the bottom of Sopron Forest Park, from the car park by Lővér Baths.

Fire Tower

FIRE TOWER Synonymous with Sopron, the Fire Tower rewards your climb to the top with unparalleled views across to Lake Fertő, and even as far as the snowy peaks of Austria.

KÁROLY LOOKOUT TOWER Some 400 metres high, Károly Tower is an architectural masterpiece.

Below spread Sopron, Lake Fertő and the hills beyond.

The kids will enjoy the forest playground.

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Historical Theme Park

SOPRON & AROUND

Ják Church

SOPRON & AROUND

JÁKI CHURCH & SZENT JAKAB CHAPEL There’s little left of the original 13th-century church, its stormy past a sorry series of fire, flood and destruction. The chapel was the medieval church of Ják.

Ják, Szabadnép utca 27 JURISICS CASTLE In the courtyard of this iconic building of Kőszeg, a statue honours Miklós Jurisics, who fought 19 sieges against the Turks, victories marked with church bells at 11am. Kőszeg, Rajnis utca 9

BÜKFÜRDŐ HEALTH & ADVENTURE CENTRE This spa complex of 34 pools – swimming, medicinal and adventure – lies in 14 hectares of grounds. Here the whole family can relax. You can even play golf next door. Bük, Termál körút 2A. bukfurdo.hu

Jurisics Castle

5 SUGGESTIONS FOR GREAT DAYS OUT

HEGYKŐ In this hamlet, known for its spa, a display of Höveji lace and historic artefacts sits by a distillery where pálinka brandy is made. Outdoor concerts are staged in summer. hegyko.hu HISTORICAL THEME PARK Here you can find out how early man crafted tools, and try out old military equipment. The best time to visit is during summer’s Savaria Historical Carnival. Szombathely, Aréna utca 1 54

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TOKAJ & AROUND

ARRIVAL • • By car: From Budapest, take the M3

motorway towards Miskolc. From there, it’s 30 minutes to Mád, Tarcal or Tokaj.

Tokaj is more than just a wine region: there are Zemplén, Bodrog, Tisza, Sárospatak, Erdőbénye and many other wonderful landscapes. A gastronomic scene also is developing alongside the renowned wines. As well as exciting restaurants, events and festivals attract more and more visitors to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region.

• • By train: Services leave Budapest Keleti

for Tokaj every 2hrs, journey time 2hrs 45min.

ATTRACTIONS To visit Tokaj and a couple of wine terraces, one day should be enough, but to explore the whole wine region, Mád and other settlements, then it’s a long weekend.

USEFUL WEBSITES • • tokaj-turizmus.hu • • tokaj.hu

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TOKAJ & AROUND

TOKAJ & AROUND

VIEW FROM MEGYER HILL

REGÉC CASTLE

HERCEGKÚT WINE CELLARS

BOLDOGKŐVÁRALJA CASTLE

SÁROSPATAK CASTLE

SZENT TERÉZ CHAPEL

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Zemplén Adventure Park

TOKAJ & AROUND

PICNIC ABOVE A PIT LAKE AT TARCAL Though you can’t bathe here, this is one of the most spectacular sights in the region. After a climb to the statue of Áldó Krisztus, there’s a fine view of the water.

SEE HOW AN ASZÚ VINTAGE IS MADE The finest sweet wine in the world can only be made from first-class aszú grapes. If you’re here in a vintage year, pop into a cellar to see the process at work.

TASTE THE ESSENCE OF TOKAJI A wine is designated as sweet if it has a sugar content of 45g/l. The therapeutic effects of Tokaji have been known for centuries – prepare yourself for a treat.

TOUR THE HILLS WITH A WINEMAKER Don’t miss the chance to take a tour of the hills of Mád, where you can learn about the characteristics of the local vineyards and enrich your knowledge of geology.

10 BEST THINGS TO DO IN TOKAJ DRINK CHAMPAGNE ON THE TERRACE AT HENYE WINERY Tokaj is also an exciting destination as far as champagne is concerned.

For those who like bubbly, the Henye Winery is the ideal place to sample a glass or two. Bodrogkeresztúr, Henye-dűlő FLY ALONG THE CABLEWAY AT ZEMPLÉN ADVENTURE PARK Perhaps not advisory after a tour of the wine cellars, at the Zemplén Adventure Park, a cableway allows you to fly between the Szár and Magas hilltops. Sátoraljaújhely, Torzsás út 25. zemplenkalandpark.hu

VISIT LÁSZLÓ ALKONYI AT THE KALÁKA CELLAR There are few people today who know more about Hegyalja than László Alkonyi.

He can take you on tour of the Kaláka wine cellar and impart his considerable wisdom. Tállya, Rákóczi utca 79 VISIT THE FISH GRILL AT TÍMÁR It is not fine dining, but the grill at Tímár offering locally landed zander and bream is well worth a detour – especially if you time your visit around sunset. Timár, Bercsényi út 21

GO CANOEING ON BODROG There are a number of hiking trails to choose from in bucolic Bodrogzug. There are also plenty of boat rental places and lodgings where you can be close to water and wine.

PAIR GOOSE LIVER WITH TOKAJI ASZÚ The Tokaj region is also developing its gastronomy, and although you may have seen the combination of goose liver and aszú elsewhere, here’s the place to try it.

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TOKAJ & AROUND

TOKAJ & AROUND

Road Trip TOKAJ ROAD TRIP FOR A GREAT WEEKEND AWAY

FRIDAY Starting in Tokaj, you can have lunch at LaBor Bistro, recently opened on the main square of Fő tér, then take a walk through historic Baroque streets. For wine, head up to the terrace at Hímesudvar, almost always open. If you’d rather have coffee, right next to LaBor is the popular Tokaji Kávépörkölő. In the evening, make for Encs, and the most famous restaurant in the region, Anyukám Mondta, for a fine dinner.

SATURDAY If you’ve chosen to stay in Mád, after breakfast, walk up to Szent Tamás peak and admire the unique view of the terroir created by hundreds of Zemplén volcanoes. At the Percze Experience Centre, you can sample some of their best dry and sweet Tokaji over lunch. In the evening, cycle to Disznókő, walking up to the Filagóra, one of the most beautiful vineyards in the wine region at sunset, before dining amid the old walls of the Sárga Borház.

SUNDAY Start the morning at Erdőbénye by scaling Mulató Hill. For wine with your panoramic view, choose the Béres Vineyard, and if you are looking for an informal bistro lunch, head for Boros in the centre of Sárospatak. Don’t miss Sárospatak Castle, once the jewel of the Rákóczi estate.

The educational citadel of the Reformed College on the banks of the Bodrog River contains an impressive library and collection of historic volumes.

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TOKAJ & AROUND

TOKAJ & AROUND

Szent Teréz Chapel

10 SIGHTS IN & AROUND TOKAJ ÁLDÓ KRISZTUS STATUE From up here, you can see Tokaj Hill, the pit lake and Tarcal. Take a stroll in the pretty surroundings before popping into Kikelet Ízműhely for a glass of wine.

Tarcal, Könyves Kálmán utca ASZÚ HOUSE Animated displays show the geographical features of the region, plus the mysterious process of making Tokaji aszú.

A wine vault with exhibits sits in the basement. Mád, Batthyány utca 53. aszuhaz.hu CSODARABBIK ÚTJA Here, the history, legends and folklore of the local Jewish community are illustrated and explained with interactive exhibits and innovative graphic features.

Mád, Rákóczi út 75. csodarabbikutja.hu

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Sárospatak Castle

TOKAJ & AROUND

HERCEGKÚT CELLARS Beautifully preserved examples of Swabian architecture, the Gomboshegyi and Kőporosi cellars in Hercegkút have been built on several levels. Gomboshegyi: Hercegkút 37; Kőporosi: Hercegkút, Petőfi Sándor utca 52 KOSSUTH’S BIRTHPLACE During Hungary’s Reform Era of the earlier 1800s, Tokaj-Hegyalja was a hub of revolutionary fervour.

Here leader Lajos Kossuth was born, his family home now a museum.

Monok, Kossuth Lajos utca 18

Hercegkút cellars

RÁKÓCZI CELLAR The cellar dates back earlier than the Rákóczi dynasty – here the troops of King Mátyás must have clinked glasses. Today, it houses the Tokaj Hétszőlő Visitor Centre.

Tokaj, Kossuth tér 15

REFORMED COLLEGE LIBRARY Founded in 1531, the Reformed College contains an extensive library of more than 500,000 volumes, the collection gaining an international dimension in the mid-1600s.

Sárospatak, Rákóczi út 1. patakcollege.hu SÁROSPATAK-RÁKÓCZI CASTLE Sárospatak was the base for the Rákóczi and the Kuruc rebellions of the 1700s. Its castle retains the monumental walls of the Red Tower, its loggias and courtyard columns. Sárospatak, Szent Erzsébet út 19 SZENT TERÉZ CHAPEL Now a ruin, this chapel was built for Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa and still points towards Vienna.

Saved from final demolition, it offers views across the Great Plain.

Tarcal, Terézia kert TOKAJ WORLD HERITAGE WINE MUSEUM Here, interactive exhibitions present the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region, allowing you to explore the area on foot, by bicycle or by car, without leaving the building. Tokaj, Serház utca 55. bormuzeum.eu

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Gusteau

TOKAJ & AROUND

LABOR BISTRO In a classic bistro atmosphere, a lunch menu and nicely presented meals set the tone, while winemakers and renowned characters of the wine region come and go. Tokaj, Bethlen Gábor utca 1. laborbistro.hu OROSZLÁNOS WINE HOTEL & RESTAURANT If there is a wine destination where history is tangible, it’s Tállya – just look at the Oroszlános courtyard. It’s mainly a lodging, but the restaurant is decent.

Tállya, Rákóczi út 23. oroszlanoshotel.com PERCZE EXPERIENCE CENTRE In the spectacular interior of Percze, the daily offer is reliably original, the wine list full of surprises, such as a unique Szepsy along with several aszú varieties. Mád, Árpád utca 70. percze.com

7 OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS ANYUKÁM MONDTA Acclaimed ‘My Mother Said’ showcases the gastronomic experiences of the Dudás brothers in Italy. Cosy, it has a varied wine list, decent service and an attentive kitchen.

Encs, Petőfi út 57. anyukammondta.hu

Sárga Borház

SÁRGA BORHÁZ This mansion by Main Road 37 is the oldest restaurant in the wine region. All roads lead here, local winemakers usually pass by, and reliably decent food is served. Mezőzombor, Disznókő dűlő. sargaborhaz.hu

FIRST MÁD WINEHOUSE & BISZTRÓ This friendly bistro in the village of Mád offers small bites (sausage with mangalica pork) and Mád favourites (roast chicken from Bereg), best partaken on the terrace.

Mád, Hunyadi utca 2. elsomadiborhaz.hu GUSTEAU CULINARY EXPERIENCE WORKSHOP The first and perhaps the only classic fine-dining restaurant in the wine region is Gusteau, where original dishes are created from special local ingredients. Mád, Batthyány utca 10. gusteaumuhely.com 68

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Disznókő

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PATRICIUS – GIORGIO 2017 A new variety from this cellar is a light-hearted sparkling combination of Furmint and Muscat. You should find its green, fruity fragrance irresistible of a summer eve.

TOKAJ NOBILIS – SÁRGAMUSKOTÁLY 2017 This Muscat by Sarolta Bárdos is even worshipped by those who rarely drink wine. No further explanation is required – Tokaj, aroma, flavour, anywhere, any time.

TR MŰVEK – FURMINT 2016 A fine balance of Furmint with a hint of Hárslevelű from the Palota-dűlő, this is a wine that the three young enthusiasts behind TR Művek in Tállya should be proud of.

VINCZE TOMI – ÍZIBE FEHÉR 2017 Starting out at the family vineyard at Sárospatak vineyard, Tomi Vincze has emerged as a new-generation winemaker. His Ízibe series was created for week-day imbibing.

BARDON – MESZES FURMINT 2015 To sample something from the northern part of the Tokaj wine region, Bardon from Erdőbénye would be a shining example.

Note the hints of lavender and peach.

DEMETER ZOLTÁN – BIRTOKBOR 2016 If you want to get an idea about the renaissance of dry Furmint, here’s where to start. Zoltán Demeter feels it his mission to produce high-quality, affordable Furmint.

DISZNÓKŐ – LATE HARVEST 2016 Narrow-bottled, late-harvest wines always indicate a younger, more easily drinkable sweet variety. Disznókő is well worth a visit for the bucolic experience alone.

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In summer, you should consume lighter, fruitier fresh Tokaj Furmints, Hárslevelű or blends of the same – but if you really wish to appreciate all aspects of this wine region, you shouldn’t leave home without sampling mature, amber-coloured aszú produced many years ago, naturally by choosing a wine cellar of significant quality.

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Zoltán Demeter Winery

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

KZasirtaai

After her father’s death, Kata Zsir ai took over management of their estate in Mád. Now she not only organises the winery and the local guesthouse, but has finally mo ved to Mád from Nagyatád.

WLH: How easy was it for a you ng winemaker from Hegyalja to become involved in the running of an estate?

KZs: Many people say it’s not an easy option, but I have never regretted taking it on. Why not? Just to point out some of the most imp ortant things: there are lots of opportunities and challenges, learning and experimenting, a good atmosph ere, great people, lots of friends, living with nature, village life (hard to believe, but I love it!), a beautiful environ ment… and all with excellent wines that inspire and drive me forward. I’m not saying it’s straightforward, but it has so many positive aspects that compen sate for all the difficulties.

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A Boros

TOKAJ & AROUND

FOLLOW US ONLINE!

3 PERFECT HANGOUTS A BOROS Once you have seen all there is to see in Sárospatak, you can relax at A Boros, taking your time to choose from its extensive wine list, perhaps with a snack or two. Sárospatak, Rákóczi utca 21. aboros.hu KARDOS WINE BAR Gábor Kardos understands wine bars as he managed a busy one in Budapest. His place at this prominent junction in Mád has no fixed opening hours so do book a table.

Mád, Kossuth utca 19. kardos-tokaj.com

At We Love Budapest and We Love Balaton, we provide bright, original, independent content in English. Our previews, reviews and interviews highlight every new opening and happening in the capital and Hungary’s vibrant getaway destination. Join us!

TOKAJI KÁVÉPÖRKÖLŐ Apart from producing wine under the name of Erzsébet Pince, the Prácser family has also opened a coffee shop in Tokaj. Look out for the daily home-baked cookie.

Tokaj, Bethlen Gábor utca 10. tokajcoffee.com 74

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HÍMESUDVAR A reliable destination in the wine region, Péter Várhelyi’s place is almost always open, providing a shaded terrace for relaxation over tranquillity and a glass or two. Tokaj, Bem út 2. himesudvar.hu

BÉRES VINEYARD & WINERY The Béres family, besides the creation of healthy Béres Drops, has also invested in the wine region.

For panoramic sipping in Bénye, this is the ideal destination.

Erdőbénye, Lőcse-dűlő. beresbor.hu

KIKELET ÍZMŰHELY The wines of Stéphanie Berecz are worth the trip to Tarcal on their own, but with the Áldó Krisztus statue as well, you should definitely head here for a glass or two. Tarcal, Könyves Kálmán utca 62. tarcal.hu/berecz-stephanie

HENYE CELLAR Specialising in champagne-making, this beautifully located establishment is a popular destination, from which you can admire Bodrogköz and the Zemplén Hills. Bodrogkeresztúr, Henye-dűlő

KVASZINGER László Kvaszinger’s cellar is located in one of the most beautiful parts of Bodrog. It’s a relatively new establishment, with great wines and a waterfront atmosphere. Olaszliszka, Burgundia út 6. kvaszinger.hu

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Henye Pince

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Zoltán

emakers of One of the most important win long lived the region, Zoltán Demeter has ry in Tokajand worked around the indust k more than Hegyalja, his cellar dating bac two decades.

Demeter

nt?

lja so importa WLH: What makes Tokaj-Hegya

ortant wine region, but ZD: Tokaj is Hungary’s most imp uries, Europe knew and not only for us. For several cent the world’s sweet-wine understood that the centre of j. Today, thanks to the production was located in Toka ognised quality of our long-established and long-rec erstand the true reasons wine, we are beginning to und is something that keeps for this historic enthusiasm. This on developing. already been born who I hope that a generation has representation of this can boldly assume the worthy of its predecessors. quality and believe in the faith it, others will not either.

Because if we don’t believe in

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How Tokaji aszú is made The noble rot of Botrytis settles on overripe grapes on misty September and October mornings in riverside Hegyalja.

This fungus removes water from the fruit, so its constituent contents become concentrated.

During the late-autumn harvest, the perfect aszú grapes are selected one by one. One kilo, turned to extract the essence, can make up to 2 litres of aszú.

135 l 6 Hoops Diameter 68 cm

The grapes are then loaded into tubs, their weight helping to extract their juice, used to improve the aszú or filled into separate bottles.

45 kg

Then comes maturing, over a mandatory minimum of 18 months.

According to tradition, this was done in 135-litre gönci barrels, but nowadays it’s standard tanks and barrels.

12 rivets

After 18 months, the winemaker decides if he will mature the wine in the barrel or the bottle. Each Tokaji aszú may be placed on the market no earlier than January 1 of the third year after harvest. Today, 129g/l and more of 5 puttonyos can be termed aszú, though displaying the puttony number is no longer obligatory.

These grapes are mostly soaked in must or wine, for 12 to 72 hours. After separation, they squeeze them slowly and gently over several hours.

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Fermentation may take 3-8 weeks, usually at higher temperatures.

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5 SUMMER EVENTS & ATTRACTIONS

Fesztiválkatlan

TOKAJ & AROUND

Kerekdomb Festival

TOKAJ & AROUND

FESZTIVÁLKATLAN The events centre in Tokaj hosts shows all summer, from theatre to contemporary dance, and from retro parties to operetta, as well as Argentine opera star José Cura.

Tokaj, Bodrogkeresztúri út 2. fesztivalkatlan.hu BOR, MÁMOR, BÉNYE The village of Erdőbénye is one of the most attractive destinations in the wine region. At BMB, you can listen to live music outdoors, eat, drink and tour the wineries.

July 5-8. bormamorbenye.hu ZEMPLÉNI FESTIVAL In villages, castles and hunting lodges around Zemplén, outdoor classical concerts, theatre, dance and jazz shows await visitors, along with tours and exhibitions.

Aug 10-19. zemplenifesztival.hu MÁDI FURMINT FESTIVAL Beyond the bustle of Mád’s main street, historic courtyards host shows, workshops and exhibitions, running until late at night. You can also join tours of the hillsides.

Aug 31-Sept 1. facebook.com/MadiFurmintUnnep KEREKDOMB FESTIVAL The team behind the Valley of Arts in Kapolcs was invited to set up a multi-arts festival in Tállya.

Kerekdomb is now one of the most important events in the region.

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Regéc Castle

3 ATMOSPHERIC CASTLE RUINS BOLDOGKŐVÁRALJA Near where the famed Gönci peaches come from, this castle has a unique history and an excellent pálinka grappa distillery. Accessible by car, it’s easy to walk around. Boldogkőváralja FÜZÉR CASTLE One of the most beautiful ruins in Hungary underwent a controversial renovation, but it’s worth making a detour to this hilltop castle because of its illustrious past. Füzér, Rákóczi Ferenc út 2 REGÉC CASTLE Ferenc Rákóczi grew up in this castle, later a base for his struggles against the Habsburgs in the 1700s. The ruins, partly accessible on foot, offer a wonderful view. Regéc

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Préselő Guesthouse

TOKAJ & AROUND

MÁDI KÚRIA HOTEL This first lodging of standard in one of the most frequented destinations in the wine region offers conference facilities and traditional, tastefully furnished rooms. Mád, Rákóczi Ferenc utca 48. madikuria.hu HOTEL MAGITA This modern, well-equipped hotel has a swimming pool, a conference room, a wine cellar and a restaurant, as well as apartments. Children and dogs are also welcome. Erdőbénye, Mátyás király utca 49. hotel-magita.hu PRÉSELŐ GUESTHOUSE Also operating as a winery, with a spectacular cellar, the Préselő is a tastefully restored farmhouse in Erdőbénye with exclusive apartments amid its old walls.

Erdőbénye, Kossuth utca 23. preselo.hu TOKAJVÁR HOTEL At this hotel in the centre of Tokaj, sport and outdoor activities are prime attractions, with cycle rental and advice on nearby water sports, skiing and hang-gliding.

Tokaj, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Endre út 5. tokajvarhotel.hu

ANDRÁSSY RESIDENCY The only five-star hotel in the wine region is located in Tarcal. Elegance exudes from its 41 rooms, quality restaurant and spa, and there’s easy access to town. Tarcal, Fő út 94. andrassyrezidencia.hu

Botrytis Hotel

7 TOP HOTELS & LODGINGS

BOTRYTIS HOTEL Mád’s boutique hotel is human-sized, set close to several cellars and reliable restaurants. Interiors have style and pizazz, while rooms bear the names of hillsides. Mád, Batthyány utca 12-14. hotelbotrytis.com GRÓF DEGENFELD CASTLE HOTEL There’s a real sense of aristocracy as you stroll around the garden of this castle hotel, try its wines, and learn about the eventful history of the Degenfeld dynasty.

Tarcal, Terézia kert 9. grofdegenfeld.com 86

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Bodrogzug water tour

TOKAJ & AROUND

Megyer Hill

TOKAJ & AROUND

PÁLOS MONASTERY RUIN IN GÖNC The walls of this Gothic monastery built in the 14th century are still standing today. It’s a five-kilometre walk to reach them, starting at the outskirts of Gönc.

SÓLYOMKŐ ROCK One of Zemplén’s most significant vantage points, Sólyomkő offers views of the Szerencs stream valley.

The more adventurous can climb the 25-metre-high rocks at the top.

By Hejce, a few minutes’ walk from Fehér-kút

BODROGZUG WATER TOUR Due to its undisturbed peace, one of Hungary’s most beautiful places for a water tour is Bodrogzug.

Beginners can try their hand at rowing, canoeists require experience.

HÉTSZŐLŐ VINEYARD EDUCATIONAL TRAIL Hétszőlő is a light walk, ideal for wine lovers as it encompasses one of Hungary’s finest vineyards. You’ll find out about Tokaji wines and get a great view of Tokaj. Tokaj, Hegyalja utca

Bodrogzug water tour

5 GREAT TOURS & EXCURSIONS

MEGYER HILL TARN This lake is accessible from the centre of Sárospatak and sits on an educational trail, offering stunning views thanks to the 70-metre-high cliffs that surround it. Sárospatak 88

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5 PERFECT PANORAMIC VIEWS BODROGSZEGI VÁRHEGY Anyone interested in nature will enjoy a day out to Várhegy, with its protected plant species, diverse bird- and wildlife, and views of the vineyards and Bodrog. Bodrogkisfalud, Várhegy DISZNÓKŐ-FILAGÓRIA The building complex of the Disznókő Vineyard estate – in which classic forms meet the modern features of architect Imre Makovecz – provides reason alone to visit. Mezőzombor Disznókő-Dűlő KÁROLYI LOOKOUT From here you can see Bodrog and, in clear weather, even as far as Sárospatak. From Keresztúr Tarcal/Tokaj, turn left towards the hill – the road is wellsurfaced. Bodrogkeresztúr, Felső utca MULATÓ HILL Where the village starts, turn right at the sports ground before scaling Mulató Hill for its unexpected panorama of a large pit lake and the gorgeous hills of Zemplén. Erdőbénye SZENT TAMÁS PEAK Scaling Szent Tamás on foot or by car, you can view the hillsides with the best setting in the wine region, backdropped by the Mádi Basin, perfect for a group photo. Mád

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Zemplén Adventure Park

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3 GREAT THINGS TO DO WITH KIDS BODROG BOAT TRIP One-hour cruises start from Tokaj, head along the Bodrog River to Zsaró brook, then turn back. Boats must carry at least 15 people and they usually run six times at weekends. hajokirandulas.hu/menetrend PÁLHÁZI FOREST RAILWAY The best part of this route, running between the hills of Zemplén, is when the ever-narrowing valley passes through a tunnel carved in the rock at Kőkapu station.

Between Pálháza and Rostalló ZEMPLÉN ADVENTURE PARK The chairlift up to the lookout, the bobsleigh and the climbing wall should be enough for a family day out, but if not, the Bambi animal farm at Hotel Hunor is nearby.

Sátoraljaújhely, Torzsás út 25. zemplenkalandpark.hu 92

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Filled with tips and photos, venue reviews and interviews, in-depth features and maps.

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DEBRECEN & AROUND

ARRIVAL • • By car: From Budapest, head for Miskolc on the

M3, turning off shortly before Debrecen onto Main Road 33. Allow an overall 2hrs 30min.

Debrecen became a city without mountains or rivers – but with a little help from history. As the centre of the Reformation during the Turkish era, it developed an intelligentsia, who lived alongside craftsmen and cattle keepers. With shifting borders, new perspectives opened. Debrecen is now a tourist centre, buoyed by the Hortobágy National Park and Lake Tisza.

• • By train: Services set off from Budapest Nyugati

for Debrecen every hour, journey time 2hrs 40min.

ATTRACTIONS One day in Debrecen is enough to explore the city centre. With an overnight stay, you can visit nearby Nagyerdő Forest and the surrounding university. If you have a weekend, head for Hortobágy National Park and/or Lake Tisza.

USEFUL WEBSITES •• •• •• ••

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NINE-HOLE BRIDGE

MODEM

NAGYERDŐ PARK

LAKE TISZA

HORTOBÁGY NATIONAL PARK

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Ikon

DEBRECEN & AROUND

NAGYERDŐ & UNIVERSITY QUARTER Nagyerdő, a recreational park since the 1700s, contains Lake Békás and the botanical gardens belonging to Debrecen University, whose hallowed buildings dot the landscape.

PIAC UTCA The focal traffic-free, terrace-lined street of Piac utca suits a stroll. You’ll find everything from street food to fine dining, with craft beer, quality coffee and ice cream thrown in.

7 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS IN & AROUND DEBRECEN IKON You’ll have to reserve at this gastronomic landmark, whose hearty but divine cuisine features meat with more meat. Note also the cut-price weekday lunch menu. Piac utca 23. ikonrestaurant.hu

Nagyerdő Open-Air Theatre

STARGAZING IN HORTOBÁGY Here at this Dark-Sky designated National Park, the Milky Way is visible on cloud-free nights, and stargazing comes with occasional birdsong and the noise of frogs. www.hnp.hu

KIS-TISZA This little canal leading from Lake Tisza near Sarud, the other side of Hortobágy from Debrecen, is a destination in its own right, with plenty of outdoor activity and campsites.

MODEM The Modern & Contemporary Arts Centre, MODEM, hosts top temporary exhibitions, such as the current ‘Impressions’ with pieces by Monet and Picasso until 23rd September. Baltazár Dezső tér. modemart.hu NAGYERDŐ OPEN-AIR THEATRE With upgraded surroundings forming a quality event venue in the forest, this summer-only venue offers music, ballet and film, along with Hungarian-language drama.

Nagyerdei Park 6. debreceniszabadteri.hu 98

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Road Trip DEBRECEN ROAD TRIP FOR A GREAT WEEKEND AWAY

FRIDAY First, stroll around Debrecen’s city centre, enjoy the panorama from the balcony of the Great Church and park yourself at a terrace or two. Saunter along Piac utca, nice and broad because they used to drive cattle down it, then admire the merchants’ houses of once famous families. Treat yourself to a tasty Debrecener sausage at Hello BBQ or a sit-down meal at nearby Ikon, before a visit to the Synagogue on Pásti utca and a couple of drinks in the bars of Hal köz.

SATURDAY Board tram number 1 from Debrecen station, disembarking where Nagyerdő forest begins, popping into the Leveles Csárda restaurant for sztrapacska, cottage-cheese noodles. From here, take a nice walk over to Lake Békás, then to the main building of Debrecen University, before visiting the nearby thermal spa and outdoor pool – having remembered to pack your bathing costume.

SUNDAY Instead of motorway M3, head back on main road 33 towards the west, through the scenic National Park of Hortobágy. Have lunch at the Nagycsárda restaurant, where literary greats Petőfi, Jókai and Móricz once dined, or admire the longwool sheep, the water buffalos, the golden jackals and the Prezalwski’s horses of the Wildlife Park. There is still some time for a detour towards Abádszalók, to the small garden of the Lilaakác Kisvendéglő restaurant, or to stop at the eco-centre of Poroszló, the largest freshwater aquarium in Europe, with its huge sturgeons and other underwater attractions.

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TRAM NUMBER 1 A few years ago, Debrecen had several tram lines, before they started to whittle down their number.

Through it all, the number 1 has maintained its status as the backbone and the lifeblood of the city today, running from Debrecen station through town to the green recreational expanse of Nagyerdő. In doing so, the number 1 passes several key sights and through several layers of history and architectural styles.

Starting with the Socialist-Realism of the train terminus, it runs alongside Art Nouveau and Bauhaus façades up to the Baroque of the Socialist Kádár era, beside bourgeois residences and clumsy creations of modern-day capitalism. After this journey through urban history, the trusty tram number 1 deposits you in the gorgeous foliage of Nagyerdő. Once there, you might reflect on Debrecen’s own journey, from village to large city, and from single-storey homes to gleaming plazas.

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K Á L I - M EDDEEBNRCEEC EÉ N S K & ÖARRNOYUÉ NK D E

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DÉRI MUSEUM Along with the main draw, a huge trilogy by 19th-century artist Mihály Munkácsy that spent decades in the US, the Déri has an Egyptology department with real mummies.

Déri tér 1. derimuzeum.hu

B24 ART GALLERY The little sister of MODEM has revived this neglected pedestrianised stretch of downtown Debrecen thanks to its regular agenda of fresh, challenging, thought-provoking art.

Batthyány utca 24. b24galeria.hu

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MODEM Brimming with significant modern and contemporary art, MODEM houses the permanent Antal-Lusztig Collection and hosts top-drawer temporary exhibitions by big-name artists.

Baltazár Dezső tér. modemart.hu

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Megyeháza

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GREAT CHURCH Classicism emerged here after the firestorm of 1802, when the Great Church burned down. New buildings followed fashion.

Soon the Old City Hall was added, in mandatory yellow. Kossuth tér 1. nagytemplom.hu HATVAN UTCA 6 Art Deco was brought here from the US by István Sajó. This building shows Constructivist elements, with touches of Futurism. The same style is also seen in mansions along Simonyi út.

HOTEL ARANYBIKA & MEGYEHÁZA Part-designed by Alfréd Hajós of Olympic fame, the faded Aranybika was once a city icon. The nearby Megyeháza echoes Hungarian Art Nouveau, with Zsolnay decoration.

Piac utca 11–15 & Piac utca 54. hotelaranybika.com

7 BUILDINGS BRIMMING WITH LOCAL HISTORY CSOKONAI THEATRE The Byzantine elements of Romanticism feature on this landmark, the oldest and largest of its kind in town. From 1865 on, it has hosted the finest actors in Hungarian theatre. Kossuth utca 10. csokonaiszinhaz.hu

Hotel Aranybika

PIAC UTCA The first multi-floored houses in town were built where the market (piac) stood. They present a multi-layered memory of families who feature in the works of novelist Magda Szabó.

DEBRECEN DISTRICT COURT This excellent example of contemporary architecture, opened in September 2015, is a red-brick monolith containing no fewer than 304 rooms, including 35 courtrooms.

Arany János utca 25-31 DEBRECEN STATION The train station, with its Gothic dome inspired

by Sajó, elliptic rose windows and monumental Derkovits murals, is a cathedral of Socialist Realism soon to be demolished. Petőfi tér 12 106

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LITERARY DEBRECEN The strange relationship between Debrecen and literature has meant that although the city has provided Hungary with cultural icons, it treated them quite poorly. Late 18th-century poet Csokonai grew up here but was sacked as a teacher. Revered Endre Ady ran back to Nagyvárad to become a journalist. Revolutionary hero Sándor Petőfi hardly burst with pride that his son was born here, and novelist Zsigmond Móricz declared, “I don’t want to be a student in Debrecen”.

The later Sándor Tar drank himself to death here in solitude, and this is where his contemporary, Szilárd Borbély, committed suicide.

At the same time, award-winning Péter Esterházy was first published here in local journal Alföld. Magda Szabó of ‘The Door’ fame always fondly remembered the town of her birth. A memorial house was opened on Kossuth utca in 2017, the centenary of her birth.

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Botanical Garden and Spa

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Nagyerdő Park

DEBRECEN & AROUND

LAKE FANCSIKA & BÁNK ARBORETUM On the way to Lake Fancsika, make sure you pay a visit to the 15-hectare Bánk Arboretum, where you can wander among the natural attractions of the Erdőspuszta.

7 HIKES & BIKE RIDES TO NEARBY NATURE BOTANICAL GARDEN AND SPA When you’re strolling round the main building of the university, don’t miss the ornamental garden. Continue your walk to the botanical garden, then pop into the spa.

HUNGAROSPA HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ This is by far the best beach in the area, with an outdoor slide park. To make a full day of it, have lunch at the Mirage and dessert at the Illangó Confectionery. hungarospa.hu 110

NAGYERDŐ PARK This lovely green space allows you to cycle to the forest, sit under the trees at the Leveles Csárda tavern, sip a spritzer by the Water Tower and relax by Lake Békás.

Zelemér was a village destroyed during the Turkish occupation. Yet today, this is still the name of the local train station, instead of the actual one of Bodaszőlő.

Outside the village was a strategic fuel depot, its location on 1950s’ maps a source of confusion for Western spies.

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PALLAG Five kilometres from the Water Tower, Pallag can be reached by an asphalt road, or by cutting through the forest. Once you get there, treat yourself at Spájz bakery. pallagspajz.hu ZELEMÉR CHURCH RUINS AND SOURCE OF THE TÓCÓ For a nice afternoon out on the bike, head off on this 20-km trail that takes in the church ruins of Zelemér at Alsó-Józsa, and the source of the Tócó stream.

ZSUZSI NARROW-GAUGE RAILWAY TOUR Debrecen has a forest railroad, almost from the city centre to Erdőspuszta, and if you’re lucky, it’ll be a steam train. Stops include the Kerekerdő Adventure Park. zsuzsivasut.hu; kerekerdoelmenypark.hu 2018 / SPRING — SUMMER

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Nonna Rosa

DEBRECEN & AROUND

KESZEGSÜTŐ The place to come for freshwater fish. Honest, traditional, domestic dishes are made from the bounty of the River Tisza: carp, catfish, fish soup and fish crackling. Debrecen, Pesti utca 2. keszegsuto.hu KIS PADLIZSÁN In the heart of carnivorous Debrecen, the Little Aubergine proves that there is still demand for quality vegan cuisine. Great smoothies, too. Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Debrecen, Pesti utca 7. kispadlizsan.hu MIRAGE Thanks to its creative, quality cuisine, this prominent venue is a gastro festival regular. Look out for the farm-style items on the menu, baked marrow and roast hock. Hajdúszoboszló, József Attila utca 5. mirage-etterem.hu NONNA ROSA Lobster and langoustines in Debrecen?!? Indeed, plus pizzas, own-made pastas, self-baked bread and a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Note also the neat, contemporary design.

Debrecen, Piac utca 12. nonna.hu

FLASKA The first private restaurant in town, Flaska feels like a traditional tavern, but with the gastronomic quality of a restaurant. A favourite with first-time foreign guests.

Debrecen, Miklós utca 4. flaska.hu

Kis Padlizsán

7 OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS IN & AROUND DEBRECEN

IKON The leader of high-end gastronomy in Debrecen, Ikon needn’t mean high prices – its weekday lunch menu is a steal. Find a table on the terrace or reserve at weekends. Debrecen, Piac utca 23. ikonrestaurant.hu KASHMIR This hidden little treasure in a side street offers spicy cuisine from mountainous north India. While waiting for your freshly prepared dishes, sip a smooth lassi. Debrecen, Thaly Kálmán utca 2. kashmirdebrecen.hu 112

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Lepcsánka - Lepcses

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Lepcsánka - Lepcses

DEBRECEN & AROUND

RÓZSA FALATOZÓ This revered market eatery has been serving diners for three decades with cheap filling dishes, the daily specials often including bean soup, breaded mushrooms or gizzards. Vár utca 3. facebook.com/rozsafalatozo

5 TOP STREET-FOOD SPOTS IN TOWN Buri-Buri

BURI-BURI At this Tex-Mex eatery, top-notch ingredients are used in the mature Angus burgers, the pastrami and fajitas. Burritos influenced the venue’s name, a cross with potato: Buri-Buri. Simonffy utca 11. buriburi.hu

WOK TO BOX Thanks to the owner’s regular visits to Asia, here you find reasonably authentic food from the Far East, from classic pad Thai and phô soup, Taiwanese bao and sushi. Simonffy utca 1A. woktobox.hu

FLASZTER FOOD The new burger place in town, Asphalt Food was born of a chance meeting that saw this classic food truck open in a car park. Buns, meat patties and sauces are all homemade. Simonffy utca 9. facebook.com/flaszterfood LEPCSÁNKA – LEPCSES Tócsni are potato pancakes, here given a little twist – they fill the base with cheese, sour cream, sausage and red onion, thus creating tölcsni, the house speciality. Széchenyi utca 1/10 114

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Ikon, Hello BBQ

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Vintage World

DEBRECEN & AROUND

3 GREAT PLACES FOR DEBRECENER SAUSAGES

3 ATMOSPHERIC & RELAXING CAFÉS BLACK SHEEP This flagship of new-wave cafés, with its own coffee created on-site and roasted to perfection, also offers organic cakes and fine sandwiches, best enjoyed on the terrace.

Csapó utca 23. black-sheep.hu VINTAGE WORLD This flower and souvenir shop contains a café where fine breakfasts are served, quality coffee accompanying variants of tomato-and-pepper stew, lecsó, plus eggs and bacon.

Arany János utca 6. vintageworld.hu

BARABÁS The award-winning sausages here prove that the maxim holds true – if it doesn’t stain your clothes, then it isn’t a real Debrecener. These ones aren’t too fatty or too bulky either.

Vár utca 11. barabasetterem.hu IKON & HELLO BBQ Two places on Piac utca offer top Debreceners of 30% grey cattle and 70% mangalica pork. The crispy roast variety is best enjoyed with Léta horseradish and honey mustard.

Piac utca 11-13 & 23. ikonrestaurant.hu; facebook.com/ HELLOBBQCOFFEEDEBRECEN

VOLT EGYSZER Here at Once Upon A Time, regulars dispense with the drinks menu as the coffees, cakes and breakfasts are reliably excellent.

Open early weekdays, so popular with local employees. Piac utca 16

KURUCZ HENTES ÉS LACIPECSENYE Made according to an old family recipe, a secret combination with more pork than beef, this aromatic, spicy sausage is a little masterpiece that comes in three sizes.

Csapó utca 102. kurucz.hu

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

y l o r á K Balogh

Károly Balogh opened top-no tch restaurant Ikon with business partner Zso lt Kőrösi, instigating Debrecen’s gastro revolution.

WLH: How do you appeal to the provincial liberal elite?

KB: The tricky part is to discover and use purely local and top-quality raw ingredients. A good example is our ‘30km menu’, of products created with in a 30km radius of here.

Of course, in order to achieve this, local producers have to be nurtured, educated and motivated. Buyers also have to be persuaded that the task of a restaurant is primarily to provide something that cann ot be made at home.

Widely travelled thirty- and forty somethings are already curious about what a local outl et may be able to offer, and can also afford to pay for quality.

Three years ago, we started the main gastro festival in the region, Debrecziner Gourme t, to put Debrecen and surroundings back on the culin ary map. For the first event, we focused on Debrece ner sausages, and for the next, meat from Hortobágy catt le. This year, it’s Léta horseradish.

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Aquaticum Hotel

DEBRECEN & AROUND Malom Hotel

DEBRECEN & AROUND

MALOM HOTEL This unique hotel has been created out of an old windmill, walking distance from the centre. The red brick and bright geraniums remind you of a happier, innocent past.

Böszörményi út 1. malomhoteldebrecen.hu VILLA HOTEL Accompanied by the Krúdy restaurant, this former villa provides bucolic comfort surrounded by greenery and birdsong. Rooms can be booked on a half-pension basis.

Medgyessy sétány 4. villahotel.hu

AQUATICUM HOTEL This complex with a thermal spa and an aquapark allows you to relax in healing waters. Attractive online rates thanks to 20th anniversary celebrations in 2018.

Nagyerdei park 1. aquaticum.hu CENTRUM HOTEL The best downtown option, close to a main square and most of Debrecen’s main sights, yet offering complete tranquillity.

Correct, comfortable, good value for money.

Kálvin tér 4. centrumhotel.hu

Aquaticum Hotel

5 UNIQUE DEBRECEN HOTELS

HOTEL DIVINUS The first five-star hotel in the region and the only one in town, Divinus is set where the city meets the woods. A pool and large spa are complemented by a fine restaurant.

Nagyerdei körút 1. hoteldivinus.hu 120

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Campus Festival

DEBRECEN & AROUND

5 FANTASTIC FESTIVALS IN & AROUND DEBRECEN CAMPUS FESTIVAL This major music event takes place in the green expanse of Nagyerdő, and stars top Hungarian acts such as András Lovasi of Kispál fame and local metalheads Tankcsapda.

July 18-22. campusfesztival.hu DEBRECEN WINE & JAZZ DAYS Once a provincial jazz event, this is now one of the largest of its kind in Hungary thanks to its merger with a wine festival, showcasing the labels of nearby Érmellék.

Aug 2-5. facebook.com/boresjazznapok DEBRECEN FLOWER CARNIVAL Running over a whole week, this is the highlight of the summer calendar, all the townsfolk out to watch the procession. Look for children’s activities and fireworks, too.

Aug 14-21. debreceniviragkarneval.hu ZAMAT FESTIVAL In addition to showcasing some 200 types of pálinka brandy, this festival is one of Debrecen’s main gastronomic events of the year. Appeals to an older crowd of regulars.

End of Sept. zamatfesztival.hu TAR TOUR Held in memory of tragic Hungarian novelist Sándor Tar, this literary celebration sets off from the editorial office of Napló before taking in six pubs and six readings.

Last Sat of Sept or first Sat of Oct. Turmix Presszó, Csapó utca 4

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7 GREAT WAYS TO DISCOVER HORTOBÁGY

ROUTE OF INNS Due to the day-long distances, animals and drivers needed water, which is how these inns were established. The most authentic is the Meggyes, away from the main road. csardakutja.hu

CRANE MIGRATION The iconic creature of Hortobágy National Park is this majestic migratory bird with the trumpeting call, mainly seen and heard at dawn or at sunset during the autumn.

SHEPHERD MUSEUM Next to the Nine-Hole Bridge, you can enjoy the traditional delights of the Hortobágy Inn after an enlightening visit to the interactive Shepherd Museum alongside. Petőfi tér 1, Hortobágy

HORTOBÁGY TOURIST TRAIN From April to October, at weekends in the shoulder seasons and daily in July and August, a narrow-gauge train runs for five kilometres around the fishponds of Hortobágy. hnp.hu

STAR GAZING A lesser-known attraction of Hortobágy is its dark skies. Thanks to minimal light pollution, visitors can take a night tour observing the heavens with expert guidance. hnp.hu

MÁTA TOUR The stud farm at Máta dates back 300 years. You can visit the stables and handicraft workshops, and observe the horse-riding skills of the csikós, Hungarian cowboys. mataimenes.hu

WILDLIFE PARK Here you can observe animals such as wolves, jackals, wild horses, vultures and pelicans, as well as wild cats, foxes and whitetailed eagles in their natural habitats. hnp.hu

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Lake Tisza

DEBRECEN & AROUND

Eco Center

DEBRECEN & AROUND

ECO CENTER Europe’s largest freshwater aquarium provides insight into the wildlife of the Tisza Valley, most notably the huge sturgeons, belugas visible through a glass tunnel. Poroszló, Kossuth Lajos utca 41. tiszataviokocentrum.hu

7 TOP DESTINATIONS AROUND LAKE TISZA ABÁDSZALÓK The Tisza equivalent of fun-filled Siófok at Balaton, Abádszalók allows you to sail on a pirate ship then dine as the sun sets, by the harbour or at Lilaakác garden. tiszato-hajoberles.hu

FISHERMEN’S INN AT TISZACSEGE It’s not strictly Lake Tisza, but it’s worth a small detour for fish crackling, smoked catfish or Hungarian bean goulash made with smoked fish. Larger groups welcome.

Tiszacsege, Tiszavirág utca 2. csegecsarda.hu

ADVENTURE ISLAND Arriving here by boat – it’s an island, after all, and a wooded one at that – you’ll find a 400-metre slide, a 15-metre climbing wall, a lookout tower and archery.

Tiszafüred, Kistisza utca 2. kalandsziget.hu

KIS-TISZA Rent a canoe in Poroszló, paddle through the flowing Kis-Tisza to the main river and back, and you will feel like a new person. You can also take a guided tour on a motorboat. poroszlodelfinkikoto.hu

CYCLING ROUND THE DAM Riding along 70km of smooth asphalt allows you to admire fine scenery, nice villages, beaches, pubs and churches. Look out for the musical Tour d’Opéra in late July. operaofthenature.com

TISZAFÜRED BEACH This beach is actually a big park with bathing, but it’s a refined, well-organised, expansive area, free to enter, and offering classic Hungarian snacks at its buffets.

Tiszafüred, Kikötői körút. tiszafured.hu

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EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK The Bermuda triangle of Eger and the surrounding hilly greenery of the Mátra and the Bükk can easily engulf you. The mountains, the border castle fights, the Turkish monuments, the Baroque grandeur, the trout farms and the gastronomic havens all inspire, but many visit purely for the combination of thermal waters and celebrated local wine.

ARRIVAL • • By car: The motorway does not go

directly to Eger. Follow the M3 to Miskolc, then turn off for Tiszafüred/Füzesabony towards Eger. From Budapest, allow an overall 1hr 40min to Eger.

• • By train/bus: Direct trains leave from

Budapest Keleti every 2hrs, journey time 2hrs 20min. Buses (1hr 50min) leave from Budapest Stadion terminus by the metro station (M2) Puskás Ferenc Stadion.

ATTRACTIONS For Eger, one day to explore the castle, the historic centre and the wine cellars of Szépasszony-völgy is hardly enough – throw in the green hills of the Mátra and Bükk and you’ve got a great long weekend ahead of you, or even an entire week.

USEFUL WEBSITES • • eger.hu • • visiteger.com • • bnpi.hu

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EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

SZALAJKA VALLEY

SZARVASKŐ CASTLE

GALYA LOOKOUT POINT EGER CASTLE

KÉKES LOOKOUT POINT

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Baroque Eger

EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

GALYATETŐ Surrounded by stones at Hungary’s third-highest point, this spa hotel has unique features – not to mention a lookout turret, a Neo-Romanesque church and a deserted ski-jump. hunguesthotels.hu LOCAL SPECIALITIES While you’re here, sample the palóc lamb or the sheep’s cottage cheese with potato dumplings at Bori Mami in Gyöngyös, or the fruits of the Bükk at Trifla in Eger. borimami.hu; triflaeger.hu NOSZVAJ NATURAL RETREATS Away from urban bustle, unique lodgings near Noszvaj provide retreats close to nature: yurts and luxury tents at Nomád, and treehouses high in the greenery of the forest. nomadhotel.hu; treehouses.hu RECSK GULAG Take a tour of a Soviet-era prison camp, modelled on the Siberian gulag, at Recsk near the Mátra Nature Reserve. Its most famous inmate was renowned poet György Faludy. www.recsk.hu

10 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS AROUND THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

SZÉPASSZONY-VÖLGY The Valley of Beautiful Women on the edge of Eger is lined with cellars, where wines are presented inside and out. Look out for the small-batch, new-wave winemakers. Eger. egribornegyed.hu

BAROQUE EGER Around the small crooked streets of Eger’s historic centre, gorgeous Baroque architecture shows how the city was revived after the last Turk was driven out in the late 1600s. eger.hu

TURKISH EGER The Ottomans were only here for a century but you can still see their minaret and, now set up nearby, a Turkish pasha’s tent, where teas, coffees and sweets are served.

Eger, Dobó István utca 40. facebook.com/egripasasatra

EGERSZALÓK BATHS One of most unique thermal retreats in Europe, Egerszalók features a spa which lies under the limestone deposits of Sódomb (‘Salt Hill’), awash with rising steam. salirisresort.hu

Egerszalók

CHILDREN’S TOUR OF EGER CASTLE In this special attraction for younger visitors, Eger Castle is brought to life with historic detail about heroic deeds. Learn how locals fought off their Turkish aggressors. egrivar.hu

EGRI BIKAVÉR CELEBRATION At this major annual event, prestigious wineries showcase their wares, paired with local food, sampled by the many visitors to this four-day wine and gastro festival.

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Road Trip MÁTRA-BÜKK ROAD TRIP FOR A GREAT WEEKEND AWAY

FRIDAY Spend the day around Eger Castle and the city’s historic centre alongside, before wandering down to find a great restaurant, where renowned local wines accompany top-quality specialities. Afterwards, head to the Valley of Beautiful Women for a relaxing evening spritzer.

SATURDAY Soak away the woes of the night before under the gold-coated cupola of a Turkish bath. Once you’re refreshed, you can set off for Szarvaskő and the Cathedral Church of Bélapátfalva, your easy sightseeing duties then rewarded with a light dish of local trout in Szalajka Valley. On the way back, you’ll still have time for a little detour towards Noszvaj to pick up some quince jelly that you can take away with you after the weekend.

SUNDAY You can head back via the Mátra, where you can choose between the sights of Sirok Castle, Recsk gulag camp, historic Feldebrő, Kisnána Castle, Parádsas Castle and Mátraháza, before a fine meal Bori Mami in Gyöngyös, and the motorway journey home.

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Eger Castle

EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

EGER CASTLE No crumbling ruin but an authentic medieval monument, its walls and interior intact and enhanced with interactive displays. A stroll along the castle wall walkway is a must. Eger, Vár 1. egrivar.hu HISTORIC CENTRE The refurbished focal square of Dobó tér is embellished by the Baroque masterpiece of the Minorite Church.

At nearby Végvári vitézek tere, dangle your feet over a cool stream. visiteger.com LYCEUM & ARCHDIOCESE LIBRARY Founded as a lyceum by 18thcentury bishop Károly Eszterházy, this university building houses a grandiose library, 250 years old, with one-of-a-kind historic editions. Eger, Eszterházy tér 1. uni-eszterhazy.hu

10 UNMISSABLE SIGHTS IN EGER

MINARET Atop this 40-metre-high tower, the former Ottoman crescent has been converted into a cross. Scale the 97 steep steps for a panoramic view of Eger’s historic centre.

Eger, Knézich Károly utca 4. minareteger.hu

ARCHBISHOP’S PALACE At this Baroque landmark, an exhibition of church art reveals the everyday and private life of the former chief clergy – you can even sample the archbishop’s wines.

Eger, Széchenyi utca 3. egriersekipalota.hu

SZÉPASSZONY-VÖLGY This long underground complex is best known for the wine cellars of Szépasszony-völgy: Valley of Beautiful Women. Exulted in literature, it now sports trendy design touches. Eger, Szépasszony-völgy. egribornegyed.hu

BASILICA This is the second largest religious building in Hungary, with an impressive three-nave interior to match. From May through October, organ concerts are given at noon. Eger, Telekessy út 6. eger-bazilika.plebania.hu

TURKISH BATHS In the authentic surroundings of the 200,000-piece glittering gold mosaic of the dome, here you can plunge into the waters of six pools or enjoy hammam pampering.

Eger, Fürdő utca 3–4. torokfurdo.egertermal.hu

BEATLES MUSEUM Imaginative and meticulously conceived, with decent English documentation, this exhibition tells the story of the group with videos, interviews and memorabilia.

Eger, Csiky Sándor utca 30. beatlesmuzeum.hu

VARÁZSTORONY This astronomical tower created by Maximilian Hell used the top technology of the 18th century. A camera obscura projected a city panorama, now an interactive exhibition.

Eger, Eszterházy tér 1. varazstorony.hu

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Trifla

EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

TRIFLA This bold, creative spot on a pedestrianised street offers Provençal frogs’ legs and oven-baked marrowbone stuffed with beef tongue. Trifla, Bükk truffles, can be ordered alongside.

Eger, Széchenyi utca 9. triflaeger.hu VADÁSZ RESTAURANT An essential part of any tour of the Bükk is the stew with sheeps’ cheese dumplings and dill here, or the local venison with forest-fruit sauce. Local ingredients feature.

Répáshuta, Kossuth utca 8. vadaszetterem.hu

7 GREAT DINING DESTINATIONS BORI MAMI This award-winning restaurant in Gyöngyös makes use of purely seasonal local produce, such as whole palóc lamb, venison goulash and pork tenderloin wrapped in ham. Gyöngyös, Belváros tér 7. borimami.hu

Macok

VADVIRÁG RESTAURANT Reviving the neglected gastronomy of Bogács, Vadvirág offers an interesting menu of Hungarian flavours such as mangalica pork with forest mushrooms, and game in red wine.

Bogács, Táncsics utca 6. vadviragbogacs.hu

DEPRESSO With a book to read at every table, this smart café/eatery offers top-notch coffees, cooked breakfasts, filled croissants and quiches, plus great local wines. Sunny terrace too.

Eger, Dobó tér/Érsek utca 14. depresso.hu MACOK Overlooking a central square, Macok Bisztró (‘Tócsni’ to locals) is at the forefront of Eger’s culinary scene, with a six-course dégustation menu under 10,000 forints and fine wines. Eger, Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4. facebook.com/MacokBisztro SÁFRÁNY PISZTRÁNG To ensure that you’re eating local trout, have a look around this fish farm, where your dinner will have been swimming a few metres from your table. Szilvásvárad, Szalajka-völgy. facebook.com/safranypisztrang.szilvasvarad 138

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Fúzió Wine Bar

FÚZIÓ WINE BAR The design wine bar of the renowned Gál Tibor Winery is a modern reinterpretation of a former stable, all amber and wooden beams, with a terrace, cellar and wine shop.

Eger, Csiky Sándor utca 10. galtibor.hu

7 SPOTS TO SAMPLE TOP WINE

Almagyar Archbishopric Vineyard

KEDVES WINE BISTRO & SHOP This cellar outlet of top winery St Andrea has its own terrace on Eger’s famed Szépasszony-völgy.

Don’t miss a wine tasting here but do make sure you reserve.

Eger, Cellar 38, Szépasszony-völgy. hu-hu.facebook.com/kedvesbistro

ALMAGYAR ARCHBISHOPRIC VINEYARD This wine terrace at the top of a vineyard displays exposed concrete and bare wood – very modern, very unique, very Eger, and all under the direction of Ferenc Csutorás. Towards Noszvaj, facing Nagy-Eged. almagyar.hu BOLYKI WINERY & VINEYARD This complex of cellars of grandiose white stone, set in a magnificent valley, exudes a cool and savvy vibe.

Great wines too, best sipped in the shade of a nut tree. Eger, Bolyki-völgy. bolykipinceszet.hu

THUMMERER WINERY & MAGTÁR INN This well-known family winery in Noszvaj occupies a complex of hand-carved cellars. After sampling a glass or two, you can dine on wine-based dishes at Magtár Inn. Noszvaj, Szomolyai út 2/A. thummerer.hu; magtarfogado.hu

CSENDÜLŐ Rough stone walls and wooden beams, a lush green lawn in a rethought rustic environment – with wine, an open-air stage and theatre, this provides an oasis of calm. Noszvaj, Deák Ferenc út 46. csendulo.hu

VINCZE BÉLA BORBAZILIKÁJA In 2004, this Italianate cellar was created from 300,000 bricks: arches, cathedral-like interior, the works.

Eight hundred wine barrels complete the picture. Eger, Mester utca 2. vinczepinceszet.hu

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REVOLUTION IN THE VALLEY OF BEAUTIFUL WOMEN Until recently, Szépasszony-völgy, Eger’s cellar-lined Valley of Beautiful Women, would have been a shoo-in for any top list of retro sites around Hungary. But that’s all changed. A gastronomic and wine revolution has transformed this 1970s’ time capsule, bringing cosmopolitan terraces, colourful wine bars, jazz, swing, high-quality hams and cheeses, not to mention fine bread to accompany. Premium wineries, including St Andrea and Tibor Gál, have also opened outlets here recently. You’ll even find a nicely renovated park and an open-air theatre. Of course, there’s still a merry-go-round and a bouncy castle, but that’s fine – some things are still sacred.

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Treehouses Noszvaj

EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

NOMÁD HOTEL & GLAMPING Offering a slice of Provence amid the birdsong of the Bükk woods, Nomád comprises wooden bungalows and tent houses for glamping, with a spa and gentle stream alongside.

Noszvaj, Síkfőkút utca 5–7. nomadhotel.hu SHIRAZ HOTEL This deliberately sensual, romantic getaway hotel offers an exotic taste of the Orient, its Moroccan-style furnishings and Arabic Bath House perfect for visiting couples.

Egerszalók, Széchenyi út 31. shiraz.hu

5 GREAT PLACES TO STAY BAMBARA HOTEL There’s an authentic African atmosphere here in the Bükk hillsides, the cones, arrow-slit windows and sand-storm colouring echoing the building techniques of West Africa.

Felsőtárkány, Bükkerdő sétány 2-4. bambara.hu IMOLA UDVARHÁZ By Eger Castle gate, this top-class rural boutique hotel provides 15 renovated rooms and two apartments, the perfect base for exploring the historic surroundings.

Eger, Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4. imolaudvarhaz.hu 144

Nomád Hotel

TREEHOUSES NOSZVAJ These luxurious wooden treehouses are for couples only, each optimised for serenity and seclusion, with an open-air jacuzzi. A breakfast basket is placed outside every morning.

Noszvaj, Tósétány utca 20-22. treehouses.hu

For a go at Glamping, Hungarian-style, try the Glamping Picnic, an annual event at the Nomád Hotel in Noszvaj, surrounded by birdsong and the gurgle of a little stream. Given the term – glamorous camping, glamping – you may as well make use of the spa as well.

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EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

Lillafüred

5 GREAT TOURS OF THE BÜKK ATOP BÜKK From Bánkút, crossing the Bükk plateau, you reach the Nagyrét and its karst features. After a rest at Zsidó meadow, turn at Olasz gate back for Bánkút and sztrapacska dumplings at Fehér Sas. LILLAFÜRED CYCLE TOUR Heading uphill from Lillafüred, you turn into Lusta Valley, where a steep road leads to the Great Plateau. Crossing Nagyrét, you reach Bankút and, after a downhill stretch, the pub at Omassa.

PREHISTORIC DISCOVERY From Cserépfalu, where Neanderthal Man lived on the old trade route in the Hór Valley, you can climb up to the ruins of Rablólovag-Ódorvar, peeking at cave dwellings on the way back.

THE STONES OF BÜKK NATIONAL PARK Along the trail of the Blue Tour, you find that the rocks have all been given names: Három-kő, Tar-kő, Sima-kő, Vöröskő, Cserepes-kő, Pes-kő, Őr-kő, Bél-kő and Istállós-kő.

SZILVÁSVÁRAD To escape the crowds in Szalajka Valley, you can head up to Istállóskő cave, then to Bélapátfalva, the cemetery of soldiers’ graves from World War II, and then to the Abbey Church.

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EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

5 GREAT TOURS OF THE MÁTRA FROM KÉKESTETŐ TO KÉKESTETŐ To discover the essence of the Mátra, wander through these cool beech groves, past Erzsébet Rock, Sas Stone, Disznó Stone, and tree trunks brought down by storms.

GALYA LOOKOUT POINT The award-winning Galya lookout point was restored by designers from Budapest’s famed Moholy-Nagy school, extending the original pre-war tower from 17 metres high to 30 metres. galyakilato.hu

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Galya lookout point

EGER, THE MÁTRA & THE BÜKK

ILONA VALLEY WATERFALL In the bucolic heart of the Mátra National Reserve, water crashes down in dramatic fashion over moss-covered rocks into the pretty Ilona stream, a favoured stop for hikers. bnpi.hu SOUTH PEAKS OF MÁTRA Aiming for Muzsla peak, towards the Hanák Kolos lookout point, you can gaze down from Kozmáry, symbol of the Mátra, before scaling the former drilling tower of Algyő by Lake Sás.

WESTERN MÁTRA A narrow trail in Mátraszentimre leads to Mátra crag, aka Red Stone. Ahead is steep Ágasvár, with cold drinks and simple dishes. Head back down along the Csörgő stream valley.

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EGER, PIONEER OF AVIATION There has been a recreational airport in operation in Eger since the end of the 1950s, with a grass runway. It is no coincidence that it lies right opposite Nagy-Eged Hill, used in the 1970s by the popular rigid-winged gliders of the day, and later followed by paragliders. The hill even has a specific feature of providing three taking-off points, in the eastern, southern and northerly directions, in case the wind does not blow from the right direction or with sufficient strength – or too much strength for motorless vehicles to get airborne. This is the reason you see colourful features over the city on summer days, and there probably isn’t a single youngster in Eger who cannot paraglide. As a consequence, the fact that Hungary’s only ultra-light plane factory is located here, Halley Kft, represents the Apollo brand which also operates at the airport.

Nearby in Verpelét is Hungary’s only ultra-light helicopter factory as well: the Hungaro Copter.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

BUDAPEST - BRATISLAVA - PRAGUE - WARSAW

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Cooperation between the so-called Visegrád countries is usually covered in political and economic news reports. Yet Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Slovakia draw on the most diverse cultural heritage in the region, based on common values. The tourist attractions in this area of Europe are also a vital element and presented across the following pages. As you may see, there is plenty to take in. While focusing on three glittering capitals and several rural locations, we also go on a culinary tour of these diverse Visegrád countries.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

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BRATISLAVA With half a million inhabitants, Bratislava is home to fewer people than the other V4 capitals but it is still rich in attractions. You can become familiar with the cultural history of Central Europe by strolling around its buildings.

BLUE CHURCH One of the most remarkable works by Hungarian Art Nouveau architect Ödön Lechner is named after the dominant color later used for its exterior, glazed roof and mosaics.

BRATISLAVA CASTLE Towering atop a rocky hill overlooking the Danube, this colossal rectangular construction once housed the Holy Crown of Hungary but now hosts exhibitions and political summits.

GRASSALKOVICH PALACE Seat of the Slovak president, this Baroque landmark where Haydn premiered many of his works is now best known for its French garden open as a place of public recreation.

MICHAEL’S GATE AND TOWER This Old Town landmark was built in 1300, making it one of the most historic buildings in Bratislava. The tower is open for visitors to climb, the gateway busy with pedestrians.

PRIMATE’S PALACE The Hall of Mirrors within this pale-pink building witnessed the signing of the Treaty of Pressburg between Napoleon and Francis II in 1805. Today it houses the mayoral office.

SNP BRIDGE Featuring a flying saucer structure hovering over the Danube and housing a panoramic restaurant and observation deck, this cable-stay bridge links the Old Town with Petržalka.

ZICHY PALACE Found in the historic center of Bratislava, this neoClassical edifice features a pleasant courtyard, a prime location for hosting wedding ceremonies and cultural festivals.

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Charles Bridge

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

ORLOJ The Old Town’s famed astronomical clock, built in 1410, has been briefly stopped for repairs. Fear not, it should be back operating for all to see from mid-summer.

POWDER TOWER This Gothic tower in Prague Old Town was formerly used for the storage of gunpowder. Today this medieval landmark is the last standing gate of the original city wall. ŽIŽKOV TV TOWER Climb this 93-meter-high landmark for a picturesque panorama and then reward yourself with a pint at one of the many bars in the working-class district of Žižkov.

ZLATÁ ULIČKA First named after the goldsmiths who lived here, this is the street where Franz Kafka wrote during World War I. Many buildings were later repainted in striking colors.

PRAGUE The main attraction of the Czech capital remains its beer culture, and while the waiters will still keep the pivo flowing until you ask them to stop, there’s plenty more to see in this historic city.

CHARLES BRIDGE This statue-lined pedestrian bridge is the city’s most famous attraction. As you weave your way through the selfietaking crowds, the bridge connects you to and from the Old Town.

DANCING HOUSE This famous example of contemporary architecture was created to resemble Fred and Ginger in full flow, on the riverside site of a building destroyed by Allied bombing.

HRADČANY Hilltop Hradčany, topped with the enormous Prague Castle complex, provides sweeping vistas over the city. Rising above it all, St. Vitus Cathedral is a major landmark.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

Old town

WARSAW The diversity of Poland’s capital derives from its history.

The city was under Swedish and Russian occupation before being destroyed during World War II. It has since been completely rebuilt and brought back to life.

KERET HOUSE One of Warsaw’s more offbeat attractions, Frame House deals with art in its many guises, paintings, posters, drawings and prints, in a suitably unusual building west of town.

MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS Opened in 2013, this award-winning museum tells the story of Polish Jewry, within a striking contemporary building designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki.

Old town

ŁAZIENKI PARK By the city center lies one of Europe’s most beautiful parks, a major landmark on the royal route. It houses the summer palace of 18th-century Polish king Stanisław II August.

NEON MUSEUM Warsaw’s classic neon signage from the Socialist era has been gathered and placed in this one industrial setting, a former factory complex. Much is illuminated after sunset.

OLD TOWN Warsaw’s main sights are found in and around the Old Town. From the Royal Palace, you can walk to the Holy Cross Church, where the heart of Polish composer Chopin is kept.

PALACE OF SCIENCE & CULTURE This Stalinist wedding cake, Poland’s tallest building, dominates Warsaw city center. A swift lift zooms up to the 30th floor, where an observation terrace offers superb views.

WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM This imaginative museum tells the story of the city’s brave resistance to the Nazi occupation, displaying objects such as a replica of a US B-24 Liberator bomber used in Allied airdrops.

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THE VISEGRÁD COUNTRIES EXCEL AT GASTRONOMY

SLOVAKIA recommends a hearty venison terrine with cottage-cheese crackling, rescue pearls, walnut pesto and salad as a cold dish.

– THE VISEGRÁD MENU

The Visegrád Countries honour the gastronomic heritage of the region with a menu created from the specialties of the four member countries. Restaurants that join this initiative are required to use characteristic ingredients from these four territories, but they are free to concoct dishes with a modern twist.

A standard Visegrád menu – one that you can try making at home from recipes found on the V4 website (v4kozosen.hu) – features the following:

HUNGARY is represented by a modernized traditional dish.

They shake up goulash soup with citrus flavors and gremolata spices.

The chefs of the CZECH REPUBLIC offer a filling main course: melt-in-the-mouth pork roast in beer sauce, cabbage variations and dumplings.

POLAND suggests duck meat for mains with sweet potato chips, celery root pûrée, smoked cottage-cheese dumplings, fondant potatoes and broad beans.

The menu is complete with the popular and palatable Hungarian treat, somlói galuska, covered in a chocolate glaze.

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Historic Centre of Kraków

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PILGRIMAGE CHURCH OF ST. JOHN OF NEPOMUK AT ZELENÁ HORA South-east of Prague, this 18th-century landmark was fashioned in a star shape by Jan Blažej Santini Aichel, founder of a style featuring attributes of neo-Gothic and Baroque.

SPIŠ CASTLE These remains in eastern Slovakia hint at a former castle complex of remarkable size. The current 12th-century fortification presents an exhibition of weaponry and torture devices.

BEYOND THE CAPITALS – 6 WORLD HERITAGE SITES IN THE VISEGRÁD COUNTRIES

Zelená Hora

VLKOLÍNEC Located in central Slovakia, this remarkably intact settlement features traditional log houses that preserve the architectural heritage typical of mountain communities.

HISTORIC CENTRE OF KRAKÓW The cultural and ecclesiastic capital of Poland is where you’ll find Europe’s largest market square, centrepieced by the Cloth Hall and contemporary interactive City Museum.

HISTORIC CENTRE OF TELČ Featuring grand loggia façades, well preserved Renaissance and Baroque houses provide photogenic beauty around the main square of Telč, deep in southern Moravia.

HISTORIC SILVER MINE IN TARNOWSKIE GÓRY This former mine in southern Poland has been transformed into a multimedia museum site, where visitors can experience real conditions and take boat rides below ground.

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CONTENT CREATED BY THE TEAM AT WE LOVE PUBLISHING KFT. IN COOPERATION WITH:

Ungarisches Tourismusamt

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This publication is the intellectual property of We Love Publishing Kft. Reproduction in full or in part is strictly prohibited. Our team has paid particular attention to the accuracy of all the information within but we accept no responsibility or liability for any changes which may have occurred. info@welovehungary.com Budapest, 2018

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