We Love Budapest Pocket Guide Spring/Summer 2018

FOOD SPAS BARS FESTIVALS

SPRING / SUMMER

2018

INTRODUCTION When the sun comes out, Budapest moves outdoors. Its famed spas become lidos, its ruin bars transform into open-air parties and a holiday mood imbues Hungary’s gorgeous capital. On busy terraces, sassy waitstaff serve quality coffee, fine wines and creative cuisine. Music fans flock here for the Sziget Festival, petrolheads for Formula 1, and families line the Danube for the celebratory fireworks on August 20. At We Love Budapest, we strive to provide the best insider tips to make your visit memorable, for the first-timer or the veteran. Festivals, eats, bars and spas, we cover the city from top to toe.

Welcome to Budapest – and welcome to We Love Budapest! www.welovebudapest.com/en

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HUNGARY With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

BUDAPEST Attracting a record 10 million guest stays in 2017, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations.

Summer sees the city transformed by music festivals and alfresco events.

BALATON Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English.

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Throughout 2018, look out for our 6 seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort.

Distributed free nationwide!

CUSTOM PUBLISHING Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS

CONTENTS

ART & CULTURE (62-77)

INTRODUCTION

Useful information.................................................................................................... 10 Budapest by district...................................................................................................14 Top 10 don’t miss........................................................................................................16 Budapest in 1 day .......................................................................................................18 Budapest in 2 days ...................................................................................................20 Budapest with kids ................................................................................................... 22

SIGHTS & TOURS (24-39)

Interview – Boat captain Krisztián Gyarmat ....................................................26 7 best escape room games ....................................................................................28 Explainer – Escape rooms .....................................................................................30 3 historic towers to climb ...................................................................................... 32 3 lucky statues to touch ......................................................................................... 33 3 great cycle rides .....................................................................................................34 3 special forms of transport .................................................................................. 35 7 historic Hungarians used in metro station names .................................... 36 5 most beautiful bridges ........................................................................................ 38

DINING & STREET FOOD (40-61)

Interview – Pianist János Balázs ..........................................................................64 3 venues with challenging contemporary culture ........................................66 3 places graced by Franz Liszt .............................................................................. 67 3 museums with their own history ....................................................................68 3 cinemas for retro English-friendly films .......................................................69 Explainer – Hungarian photography .................................................................70 5 hidden gem museums ......................................................................................... 72 7 best street murals .................................................................................................74 5 galleries featuring great Hungarian artists ................................................... 76

SPAS & ACTIVITIES (78-89)

Interview – Kayaker Márton Fülep .....................................................................80 7 tranquil sunbathing spots ..................................................................................82 Explainer – Sparties .................................................................................................84 3 fabulously ornate spa baths ..............................................................................86 3 parks with superb sports facilities .................................................................. 87 5 outdoor plunge zones ..........................................................................................88

SHOPS & MARKETS (90-103)

Interview – Cheesemaster Gergely Ofella ........................................................92 5 ideas for original Budapest souvenirs ............................................................94 5 outlets for vinyl old and new ............................................................................96 3 best farmers’ markets ..........................................................................................98 3 great Hungarian fashion brands ......................................................................99 Explainer – Ecseri ...................................................................................................100 3 best vintage shops for trash and treasure .................................................. 102 3 streets for browsing for arty and antique treasure ................................. 103

Interview – Café owner Anna Niszkács .............................................................42 7 best ice creams with a twist ..............................................................................44 5 best destinations for special diets ..................................................................46 Explainer – Lángos, Hungary’s summer treat .................................................48 3 offbeat Hungarian street-food venues ..........................................................50 3 most irresistible Hungarian sweet treats .......................................................51 5 most ornate coffeehouses ................................................................................. 52 5 best traditional Hungarian eateries with terraces .....................................54 5 reassuringly expensive restaurants ................................................................56 7 new-wave cafés serving superb coffee ..........................................................58 5 destinations for a leisurely breakfast .............................................................60

Interview – DJs The Wave Twins .......................................................................106 7 places to watch the World Cup ......................................................................108 3 rooftop bars where top DJs play .....................................................................110 3 best venues for live music .................................................................................111 7 best hostelries for Hungarian wine ................................................................ 112

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE (104-123)

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CONTENTS

TARTALOMJEGYZÉK

5 open-air hotspots for starry nights out .......................................................114 5 cocktail bars where mixologists create off the cuff .................................. 116 Explainer – Ruin bars ............................................................................................. 118 5 ruin bars with the most offbeat design ....................................................... 120 7 best craft-beer bars .............................................................................................122

FESTIVALS & EVENTS (124-135)

Interview – Underground musician Attila Grandpierre ............................. 126 5 best gastro festivals ............................................................................................ 128 3 best sports events ............................................................................................... 130 3 most colorful festivals ........................................................................................ 131 Explainer – Sziget Festival ....................................................................................132 3 best family-friendly events ............................................................................. 134 3 best cultural festivals ..........................................................................................135

AROUND BUDAPEST (136-151)

Interview – Gallerists Anna & István Regős ....................................................138 Around Budapest map ..........................................................................................140 7 finest historic sights ........................................................................................... 142 5 best waterfront spots ........................................................................................144 7 best restaurants ...................................................................................................146 7 best tours ...............................................................................................................148 3 best festivals .........................................................................................................150 3 best panoramic Danube views ........................................................................ 151

FOLLOW US

ONLINE!

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR (152-163)

Bratislava ................................................................................................................... 154 Prague ......................................................................................................................... 156 Warsaw ...................................................................................................................... 158 The Visegrád menu ................................................................................................160 Beyond the capitals ............................................................................................... 162

At We Love Budapest, we cover the city every day with bright, original, independent content in English. Our previews, reviews and interviews focus on every new opening and happening in Hungary’s vibrant capital. As market leader, at welovebudapest.com/en we have 38,000 followers on Facebook, more than 62,000 on Instagram and nearly 13,000 followers on Twitter. Join us!

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

WELCOME TO BUDAPEST! Budapest is the capital of Hungary. Visitors from the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days.

The Hungarian currency is the forint. Currently, there are 310 forints to €1, 360 forints to £1 and 250 forints to $1. A beer costs about 600 forints/€1.91.

Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter. Most service staff speak English.

FROM THE AIRPORT Your flight to Budapest Airport (bud.hu) will arrive into terminals 2A or 2B in adjacent buildings. Terminal 1 is closed.

Exiting terminal 2, you see a line of people waiting by the taxi kiosk.

Taxis are run by Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) and other ones cannot be used.

To reach central Budapest, Főtaxi charges about 7,500 forints (€24).

Past the taxi booth, a crowd will be milling around a bus stop.

Alongside, a ticket machine, with an English-language option, accepts cash (in forints) and credit cards, and gives change.

The two buses here require different tickets. Swifter but less frequent 100E requires a 900-forint (€2.90) ticket – look out for the airplane logo on the machine. This runs every 30 minutes into the city center, calling at Kálvin tér, Astoria and Deák tér. The last bus sets off at 12:30am. Allow 40min to 1hr journey time.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

If you’re traveling to the airport from town early in the morning, the first 100E bus leaves Deák tér at 4am, calling at Astoria and Kálvin tér shortly afterwards.

The other airport bus stop is for the 200E, running every 7 minutes to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (journey time 25min).

This is on blue metro line M3, currently under repair and served by replacement buses at weekends and after 8.35pm weekdays. The 200E bus requires a standard BKK transport ticket (350 HUF/€1.10), as does the onward journey from metro station to town.

The Airport Shuttle provided by miniBUD (minibud.hu) is a door-todoor transfer service. For 1 person, it costs 4,400 forints/€14 into the center – for 2, it makes more sense to get a taxi.

AROUND THE CITY Budapest has four metro lines, and an efficient and extensive network of trams, buses, night buses and trolleybuses, overseen by BKK. Nearly all locations around the city are close to a stop or station of some kind, alongside a timetable posted up and kept to. The same tickets are valid for each of these forms of transport, including night buses, 350 forints/€1.10 for 1, 3,000 forints/€9.50 for 10. Stamp once you enter the metro station or board. Buying a ticket from the driver costs 450 forints/€1.45.

There are passes for 24hrs, 72hrs, and so on. Other forms of transport, including boats, may require different tickets – check with bkk.hu.

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST

BY DISTRICT DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK

PEST

DISTRICT V Downtown Budapest features the showcase street of Váci utca, parallel to the elegant tram-lined Danube bank.

Between Parliament and the Basilica lies the business quarter.

Parliament, Basilica, tram 2

BUDA DISTRICT V DISTRICT I

DISTRICT I Best accessed by funicular from Clark Ádám tér at the Chain Bridge, the Castle District offers tourist sights and panoramic views amid cobbled streets. Buda Castle, Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias Church

DISTRICT VII

DISTRICT VIII

DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK The grand boulevard of Andrássy út passes the Opera and the city’s theater district on its way up to Heroes’ Square and the City Park beyond. Széchenyi Baths, House of Terror, Heroes’ Square DISTRICT VII Budapest’s revived Jewish Quarter is the city’s party hub, typified by the thronging Gozsdu Udvar passageway and numerous ruin bars. Great Synagogue, Gozsdu Udvar, ruin bars DISTRICT VIII Discerning locals do their drinking in this slightly edgier zone, with a student buzz in the Palace Quarter behind the National Museum. National Museum, Keleti station, Kerepesi cemetery

FOLD-OUT MAP In the back of this book you’ll find a fold-out map. Each of our recommended destinations has been marked with a circled reference point 1A .

This pinpoints its location on the fold-out map.

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INTRODUCTION

Buda Castle

INTRODUCTION

1F HEROES’ SQUARE Flanked by two stately galleries, Heroes’ Square features a half-moon colonnade of statues commemorating 14 emblematic figures from Hungarian history and the 7 Magyar chieftains.

District XIV. Hősök tere 1G PARLIAMENT Take a tour around the stunning neo-Gothic Parliament, Europe’s second largest and one of the city’s finest architectural landmarks. Free entry on St. Stephen’s Day, August 20th.

District V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. latogatokozpont.parlament.hu 1H RUIN BARS Take an abandoned building with crumbling walls, skip-found décor, a hipster vibe and sprinkle it with a touch of trash.

Voilà, a ruin pub. Most are found around District VII. romkocsmak.hu

TOP 10 DON’T MISS 1A BOAT TOUR Embark on a rocking adventure on the Danube, taking in sweeping vistas and discovering the city’s two divergent sides lined with beautiful landmarks. Most tours set off from Vigadó tér.

1I SZÉCHENYI BATHS The contrast of this fairy-tale building – the largest spa complex in Europe – and the vivid blue waters creates a captivating scene. A lido atmosphere lasts all summer long.

District XIV. Állatkerti körút 9-11. szechenyifurdo.hu

1B BUDA CASTLE Crowning Castle Hill, this sprawling palace is one of the city’s most emblematic landmarks, housing the Hungarian National Gallery, the national library and the History Museum.

District I. Szent György tér 2

Parliament

1C CHAIN BRIDGE Decorated with stone lions, Budapest’s first permanent river crossing is a postcard superstar. Make sure you stroll across it this summer as it closes for three years from September.

1J TRAM 2 Traveling on tram 2 is a panoramic sightseeing tour of its own. The signature yellow streetcar follows the Pest embankment while showcasing the spectacular landmarks of Buda. bkk.hu

1D FISHERMAN’S BASTION Topped with 7 neo-Gothic lookout towers, one for each original Magyar tribe, this fairy-tale confection provides a perfect panorama over the Buda Hills and the Pest skyline.

District I. Szentháromság tér 1E GREAT SYNAGOGUE Budapest’s splendid Great Synagogue is the second largest Jewish house of worship in the world. Head out to the garden to admire the touching Holocaust memorial, the Tree of Life.

District VII. Dohány utca 2. dohany-zsinagoga.hu

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INTRODUCTION

Great Synagogue

INTRODUCTION

2E BUSINESS QUARTER Excellent eateries lie within walking distance of the Basilica, serving modern Hungarian cuisine and fine wines around Szent István tér, Sas utca and Arany János utca. District V 2F GREAT SYNAGOGUE In nearby District VII, the monumental Synagogue is the heart of Hungary’s Jewish community. This Moorishstyle landmark can be visited individually or by guided tour.

District VII. Dohány utca 2. dohany-zsinagoga.hu 2G PARLIAMENT From nearby Astoria, take metro 2 to Kossuth tér crowned by the Gothic-style Parliament – take a guided tour to admire its ornate interior and the Holy Crown of Hungary.

District V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. latogatokozpont.parlament.hu 2H TOUR BOAT Tram 2 provides a scenic ride to riverfront Vigadó tér, and the excursion boat for a Danube tour between Margaret Bridge and Rákóczi Bridge, gliding past major landmarks.

BUDAPEST IN 1 DAY

2I DUNA KORZÓ Once back ashore, a stroll along the Danube Promenade reveals top-tier hotels, deluxe dining destinations and the Pesti Vigadó, an elaborate edifice for cultural events. District V

2A CHAIN BRIDGE Your tour can start at the iconic Chain Bridge, the first permanent span between Buda and Pest completed by Scot Adam Clark in 1849 before the capital merged in 1873.

2C BUDA CASTLE Follow the cobblestoned lanes interlacing this medieval-style district to visit major landmarks, such as Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias Church and the National Gallery.

2D ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA From the Castle District, bus 16 takes you close to St. Stephen’s Basilica, home to a vast pipe organ, stained-glass windows and the embalmed holy right hand of King Stephen I. District V. Szent István tér 1. bazilika.biz

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St. Stephen’s Basilica

2B FUNICULAR Gracefully constructed wooden cars provide a panoramic link and short cut from the Buda foot of the Chain Bridge to the hilltop Castle District. Single ticket 1,200 HUF. District I. Clark Ádám tér. bkk.hu

2J PARTY QUARTER Cross Deák tér to head over to District VII and its ruin-bar scene, typified by Szimpla Kert on Kazinczy utca. Nearby Gozsdu udvar is lined with bars and nightspots. District VII

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

City Park

BUDAPEST IN 2 DAYS 3A ANDRÁSSY ÚT Stroll along Budapest’s showcase boulevard, treelined Andrássy, taking in the Opera House, high-end boutiques and elegant coffeehouses. Below runs vintage metro line 1. District VI 3B HOUSE OF TERROR A short hop up Andrássy, the House of Terror occupies the same building where political prisoners were tortured by brutal régimes. A chilling but gripping attraction. District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu 3C HEROES’ SQUARE A longer stroll or metro ride along Andrássy brings you to Heroes’ Square, its colonnade of statues, figure of the Archangel Gabriel and grand art galleries on either side. District XIV. Hősök tere

3F CITY PARK With a lake, fake historic castle, sundry statuary and courts for ball games, not to mention rolling greenery, the City Park is perfect for post-lunch perambulation. District XIV

3D KUNSTHALLE Műcsarnok to Hungarians, this stately gallery houses temporary exhibitions, generally contemporary and challenging in nature. All art forms feature, domestic and global. District XIV. Dózsa György út 37. mucsarnok.hu

3G BUDAPEST ZOO While animals remain the main attraction, Budapest Zoo is also an architectural delight, the likes of Károly Kós adding Art Nouveau touches to the complex in the early 1900s.

District XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12. zoobudapest.com

3E GUNDEL This renowned restaurant is where visiting VIPs pay top dollar for Magyar classics. Sunday brunch, though, is affordable, high-quality and partaken in the same grandeur. District XIV. Gundel Károly út 4. gundel.hu

Széchenyi Baths

3H SZÉCHENYI BATHS Open until 10pm, these ornate spa baths offer the perfect end to a hard day’s sightseeing, allowing you to soak away fatigue inside and out amid Neo-Baroque surroundings.

District XIV. Állatkerti körút 9-11. szechenyifurdo.hu 3I PÁNTLIKA In a pavilion built for a Socialist-era fair, Pántlika brims with retro chic. Enjoy classic Magyar cuisine and select from a huge range of pálinka brandies amid City Park greenery. District XIV. Városliget. pantlika.hu 3J DÜRER KERT If you like your live music fierce and furious, this former leisure retreat for Communist officials is for you, with regular international acts, and bars inside and out. District XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21. durerkert.com

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INTRODUCTION

Gellért Hill playground

INTRODUCTION

4D CHILDREN’S RAILWAY Driven by a grown-up, staffed by kids, the famed Children’s Railway runs through the Buda Hills, enthusiastically whistled and signaled at each station by young guards. District II. Hűvösvölgy. gyermekvasut.hu 4E CSOPA At a new, larger location in Óbuda, the rebranded CsoPa, aka Palace of Wonders, offers a world of discovery with interactive exhibitions, optical illusions and a 9D cinema. District III. Bécsi út 38. csopa.hu 4F CYBERJUMP TRAMPOLINE PARK Atop the Új Buda Center, Cyberjump allows kids to bounce around to their heart’s content for 1- and 2-hour time slots. Also on-site are a dodgeball field and sponge pits. District XI. Hengermalom út 19-21. cyberjump.hu 4G GELLÉRT HILL PLAYGROUND Renovated and reopened in 2017, the playground on the nearest slope of Gellért Hill to the hotel of the same name is brimming with slides, a climbing fort and a jungle gym.

District XI. Gellért-hegy

BUDAPEST WITH KIDS 4A BUDAPEST ZOO You can time your visit around the many feeding times here, or just take a wander around the Savannah Zone, the large lake teeming with birdlife or the Crocodile House. District XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12. zoobudapest.com

CHAIRLIFT Be lifted over the Buda Hills in a two-person gondola, panoramic views spreading wider around you. Ahead is the Elizabeth Lookout Tower, an even higher vantage point. District XII. Zugligeti út 97. facebook.com/libego 4B

CHILDREN’S ISLAND On each weekend in June, free activities, games and music are laid on for families. It’s run by the people behind Sziget Festival, hence the location of Hajógyári-sziget. District III. Hajógyári-sziget. gyereksziget.hu 4C

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4H MARGARET ISLAND Easily accessed by trams 4 and 6, Margaret Island is a tranquil area of relaxation set between Buda and Pest. Cycle hire, a musical fountain and a petting zoo all feature. District XIII 4I PALATINUS Budapest’s most popular lido, on Margaret Island, is all the better for a major renovation in 2013 that brought in new slides, giant ones, twisting ones and musical ones. District XIII. Margaret Island. palatinusstrand.hu 4J TROPICARIUM Sharks, alligators and exotic birds await at this exotic attraction in south Buda. You can stroke rays and stand in tropical rain. Shark feeding time is 3pm on Thursdays. District XXII. Nagytétényi út. tropicarium.hu

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SIGHTS & TOURS

Chain Bridge

There are so many ways to see Budapest – and so many things to see. Stunning bridges span the Danube, served by excursion boats day and night. You can also admire the city from a cogwheel train, a historic tower or a chairlift over the Buda Hills.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

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Kris ztián Gyarmat

day, up and down

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SIGHTS & TOURS

Mystiqueroom

SIGHTS & TOURS

1D MINDQUEST Between beers at a downtown ruin pub you can turn into temporary secret agents and diffuse a bomb, steal the world’s biggest diamond or destroy The Matrix before time’s up. District VII. Klauzál utca 19. mindquest.hu

Para Park

1E MYSTIQUEROOM Solve real-life riddles and mind-boggling mysteries amid wonderful visuals at the five games of MystiqueRoom, found at the terminus of Budapest’s scenic tram 2. District V. Szent István körút 9. mystiqueroom.hu

7 BEST ESCAPE ROOM GAMES 1A CLAUSTROPHILIA Search for the lost treasures of enigmatic adventurer Lord Wickelwood around the home he fiendishly conceived before his death. Handy Grand Boulevard location.

District VII. Erzsébet körút 8. claustrophilia.hu 1B E-EXIT Set free sad-eyed animals from the circus, run from the Big Brother in the dystopian world of George Orwell or save your soul from hell at the escape games of E-Exit. District VII. Nyár utca 27. szabadulos-jatek.hu

1F PARA PARK Para Park was a pioneer of early escape games. Their two rooms are unique and original, with a maze of puzzles, codes to crack, clues to track and padlocks to open. District VIII. Vajdahunyad utca 4. paraparkbudapest.hu

1C GOZSDU MISSION Solve perplexing puzzles to break free from an all-white room, a prison cell or a mafia mansion at Gozsdu Courtyard, a buzzing hub of bars and eateries in the city center. District VII. Dob utca 16. gozsdumission.hu

TRAP The four rooms here are cleverly crafted and full of surprises.

Watch your body if you find yourself stranded in the dungeon of the Boltons in the Game of Thrones Room. At various locations. trap.hu

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ESCAPE ROOMS The most popular attractions in Budapest are ones you can’t get out of. Escape rooms, elaborate communal puzzle games invented here in Hungary, are as big a draw as ruin bars and healing spas. Some even come here purely to try out as many escape rooms as possible, spending their whole weekend in a mock-up of Ancient Egypt or an English stately home. In each case, the principle is the same. A group of you, usually four, is locked in a room. How you break out is up to you. You have 60 minutes to work together to break codes, figure out patterns and unlock combinations. Overseeing it all from the control room is a games master, who can deal with any problems and open doors if so required. Games are Englishfriendly and located all over the city, on the Grand Boulevard, Gozsdu Courtyard and the furthest reaches of Buda.

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SIGHTS & TOURS

Vajdahunyad Castle towers

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 LUCKY STATUES TO TOUCH 3A ANONYMOUS A strange faceless figure beside Vajdahunyad Castle in the City Park, early chronicler Anonymous bestows good fortune on writers, who must touch his pen for inspiration.

District XIV. Városliget 3B COUNT HADIK’S HORSE Budapest’s classic touchstone is also its most infamous. For exam success, students touch the crown jewels of the stallion bearing conquering Habsburg Count Hadik, high up on Castle Hill. District I. Szentháromság tér

3 HISTORIC TOWERS TO CLIMB 2A MARY MAGDALENE TOWER Once linked to a Christian shrine, this medieval steeple welcomes Castle District visitors with scenic city vistas and hourly music played from its 24 bronze bells.

District I. Kapisztrán tér 6. budatower.hu

Anonymous

3C KÁLVIN TÉR CAT Created from red marble, the carved cat that occupies the underpass of Kálvin tér once belonged to its sculptor Gyula Illés. Stroke the cat’s tail for good luck on your way to the metro. District IX. Kálvin tér

2B MÁTYÁS TOWER Climb 197 steps to ascend the lace-like southern spire of 13th-century Matthias Church for views over its Zsolnay-tiled roof, nearby Fishermen’s Bastion and Pest cityscape.

District I. Szentháromság tér 2. matyas-templom.hu 2C VAJDAHUNYAD CASTLE TOWERS Scaling two of the castle’s fairy-tale turrets unveils a 360-degree Budapest panorama and reveals little-known information about this 120-year-old City Park monument. District XIV. Városliget. mezogazdasagimuzeum.hu

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SIGHTS & TOURS

Children’s Railway

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 GREAT CYCLE RIDES ANDRÁSSY ÚT TO CITY PARK Grandiose and dramatic, Budapest’s tree-lined showcase boulevard runs past the Opera House and Oktogon on its way to connect with stately Heroes’ Square and bucolic City Park behind.

BUDA EMBANKMENT The cycle lane hugging the Danube on the Buda side is both practical and picturesque, showcasing Parliament and Margaret Island on the way up to Óbuda and beyond to Szentendre.

Danube Embankment

MARGARET ISLAND Budapest’s oasis of recreation and relaxation equidistant between Buda and Pest is ideally suited to cyclists, paths providing welcome shade and Danube views. Bike hire available.

3 SPECIAL FORMS OF TRANSPORT 4A CHAIRLIFT Rising over Buda, the Chairlift glides from Zugliget to János Hill, the highest point in town, topped by the Elizabeth Lookout Tower. Twin-seated gondolas augment the romantic experience. facebook.com/libego 4B CHILDREN’S RAILWAY Unique to Budapest, the Children’s Railway is manned by staff aged between ten and 14, who check tickets and operate signals on the 11km journey through leafy Buda from Széchenyi Hill. gyermekvasut.hu 4C COGWHEEL RAILWAY Tram 60 of Budapest’s transport network, the bright red cogwheel rail chugs up from Városmajor, crossing the Children’s Railway at Széchenyi Hill. Regular transport tickets are valid. facebook.com/fogaskereku

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SIGHTS & TOURS

Vörösmarty tér

SIGHTS & TOURS

5D M1, M2, M3 DEÁK FERENC TÉR Named after Hungary’s first Minister of Justice, the Wise Man of the Nation, Deák Ferenc station is the heart of Budapest, where three of the four metro lines meet.

District V

7 HISTORIC HUNGARIANS USED IN METRO STATION NAMES 5A M3 ARANY JÁNOS UTCA This M3 stop bears the name of 19th-century poet, writer and journalist, the uncrowned king of ballads. Budapest’s best lángos is sold in a small kiosk by this metro station.

District V 5B M2 BATTHYÁNY TÉR After the metro crosses under the river, the namesake square of Hungary’s first Prime Minister, unjustly executed after the 1848 Revolution, provides the best panoramic view of Parliament. District I

If you’re taking blue metro M3, note that the line is undergoing significant renovation and will be closing after 8.30pm every weekday evening, and all day Saturdays and Sundays. During these times, replacement buses will be taking passengers between stops, so do allow extra time for your journey.

5C M2 BLAHA LUJZA TÉR The nightingale of the nation, actress Lujza Blaha, lends her name to the square that used to house the National Theater, now a major junction for trams 4/6 and the M2 metro. District VIII

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Kossuth tér

5E M2 KOSSUTH LAJOS TÉR Patriotic politician, statesman and journalist linked with the 1848 Revolution, a one-time UK exile, appropriately provides the nearest metro connection to Parliament.

District V

5F M2 PUSKÁS FERENC STADION Named after legendary Hungarian footballer Ferenc Puskás, this station is set by the national stadium he helped build. The arena is currently being rebuilt to co-host Euro 2020.

District XIV 5G M1 VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR The terminus of the Millennium Underground – the first metro line in Europe – is named after the writer of Szózat (‘Appeal’), considered Hungary’s second national anthem. District V

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5 MOST BEAUTIFUL BRIDGES

Liberty Bridge

SIGHTS & TOURS

Chain Bridge

SIGHTS & TOURS

6A CHAIN BRIDGE Due for renovation in 2018, Chain Bridge was the first permanent span between Buda and Pest and remains the most iconic, a necklace-like construction built by British engineers.

6B ELIZABETH BRIDGE Named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria, this white cable bridge is a graceful replacement for the original 1903 span, and earned global acclaim for its suspension design.

6C LIBERTY BRIDGE Linking Fővám tér with Gellért tér, this olivecolored structure is enhanced by ornate lamps, mythical Turul birds and Hungary’s Holy Crown. Emperor Franz Josef nailed in the last rivet.

6D MARGARET BRIDGE Greek mythological warriors add dramatic charm to this dog-leg overpass that carries the ever-busy tram 4/6 and connects to Margaret Island. You can admire the statues from a passing boat.

6E MEGYERI BRIDGE Stretching nearly 2 kilometers, this contemporary cable-stayed span stylishly links suburbs north of Budapest as part of the M0 ringroad, and provides dramatic views of Margaret Island

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This summer will be your last chance to cross Budapest’s iconic Chain Bridge for some time. From September, so the latest thinking goes, it will close for long-term renovation, lasting two years.

Once ready, the bridge will feature new lighting and stonework – yet still retain the same magic of yore.

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DINING & STREET FOOD Food, glorious food, and Budapest has plenty of it, served at alfresco eateries in leafy Buda, from street-side trucks and in Michelin-starred restaurants.

Hungarian favorites include fish soup, hefty snack lángos and elaborate confectionery, eaten at specific locations.

Before the onslaught, recharge over breakfast with recherché coffee.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

ANinsznkáacs

With a pinpoint central locatio n on Vörösmarty Square and more than 150 years of experience behind it, Gerbeaud is one of the most iconic Belle-É poque cafés in Budapest. Owner Anna Nis zkács talks about its legacy and its future.

WLB: How does Gerbeaud mai ntain tradition while catering to modern-day dem ands?

AN: Gerbeaud is a marriage of tradition and innovation. The past lingers in this elegant landmark but our mindset is just as prog ressive as that of our predecessors. Our founders, Hen rik Kugler and Emil Gerbeaud, were both innovato rs among their peers.

Kugler came up with the Pari sian cream cake, and takeaway desserts on a paper tray, while Gerbeaud brought the cat’s tongue and cherry cognac chocolate to Hungary. Tradition should be kept alive yet left to flourish. And this is what we do with the latest technologies, trends, flavors and colors.

See gerbeaud.hu for more info

.

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DINING & STREET FOOD

Gelarto Rosa

DINING & STREET FOOD

1D DAMNICZKI Besides scrumptious combinations such as the macaron ice-cream sandwich, this classic pastry shop sells savory frozen treats boosted with pumpkin seed or cucumber and dill.

District V. Hercegprímás utca 17. damniczkibudapest.hu

Anjuna Ice Pops

1E ERDŐS ÉS FIAI Found near the Buda terminus of metro line 4, this family-run outlet presents an unusual line of ice creams enhanced with pink peppercorn or cottage cheese and saffron.

District XI. Etele tér 3. erdosesfiai.hu

7 BEST ICE CREAMS WITH A TWIST 1A ANJUNA ICE POPS Fresh fruit and plant-based milk go into Anjuna’s vegan popsicles made in flavors which include a blend of avocado, tarragon and lime, or even contain fine Hungarian wines.

II. Lövőház utca 24 & V. Sas utca 7. anjunapops.com 1B CIOCCOLATTE Lick scoops of Italian dessert at Cioccolatte, where some of the creamy concoctions come with goat’s milk, or try the fruity sorbets, including vegan watermelon and sour cherry.

District XIII. Pozsonyi út 7. facebook.com/cioccolattefagylaltozo

1F GELARTO ROSA Scoops of ice cream are artfully fashioned in the shape of a rose at this ever-popular gelato shop conveniently located just steps away from focal St. Stephen’s Basilica. District V. Szent István tér 3. gelartorosa.com

1C CUTIEPIE Edible charcoal powder transforms ordinary coconut and chocolate ice creams into dark dreams at CutiePie. It doesn’t get more Instagram-friendly than posing with black ice cream.

District IX. Ferenc körút 36. facebook.com/cutiepiebudapest

1G ROCKETICE Ordinary ice-cream ingredients meet chilled liquid nitrogen in a special bowl to create fine creamy fantasies. Traditional flavors are enhanced with popcorn and basil. District XI. Kőrösy József utca 3-5 (Zing@Allee). facebook.com/rocketicenitro

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Nemsüti

DINING & STREET FOOD

Oh My Green

DINING & STREET FOOD

2D REFUGE BISTRO This hangout in party central resembles a wooden ski chalet in the Swiss Alps and provides that sought-after rarity: delicious dishes that are gluten-free at the same time. District VII. Kertész utca 48. facebook.com/refugebistro 2E SOVÁNY VIGASZ This tiny downtown cake shop dreams up select sweets that are all gluten-, sugar- and lactose-free. The menu is inspired by Hungarian and global confectionery trends. District XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 20. facebook.com/sovanyvigasz

2A KITCHEN OF HEALTH Local nutritionist and lifestyle advisor Viki Bocsi offers full, feel-good meals in the lively Jewish District, all free from gluten, milk, sugar, soy and corn. District VII. Dob utca 2. kitchen-of-health.com

Sovány Vigasz

5 BEST DESTINATIONS FOR SPECIAL DIETS

2B NEMSÜTI The menu is meat-free at this budget-friendly eatery, serving healthy sandwiches, salads and cakes. Weekday lunch specials mean hot meals, either vegetarian or vegan. V. Hold utca 9 & XIII. Jászai Mari tér 4B. nemsuti.hu 2C OH MY GREEN Complete breakfasts and lunches contain superfoods such as matcha, chia, açaí powder and goji berries to cater to a health-conscious crowd who follow alternative diets.

District V. Petőfi Sándor utca 10. ohmygreen.hu

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LÁNGOS, HUNGARY’S SUMMER TREAT No Hungarian can resist lángos, as synonymous with summer as lidos and ice cream. This street-food treat is also a waterside favorite, lines stretching round the lángos stand, ravenous locals keen on getting their paws on this revered repast. What, then, is lángos?

Basically, lángos is crispy deep-fried dough soaked in as much oil as the body can handle and slathered with a messy assembly of calorie-busting toppings. Among the most common additions are garlic butter, sour cream and shredded cheese, but the evolution of this hearty fare has recently seen layers of chicken, Bolognese sauce and ratatouille, even Nutella and whipped cream, deposited atop or stuffed into the savory dough.

Tradition has been further stretched with year-round availability, at Budapest’s market halls, roadside stalls, food trucks and even restaurants.

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DINING & STREET FOOD

Lángos Báró

DINING & STREET FOOD

3 MOST IRRESISTIBLE HUNGARIAN SWEET TREATS ESZTERHÁZY TORTA A favorite of the venerable Eszterházy dynasty, this walnut-and-vanilla dominated delight topped with characteristic chocolate stripes is considered the king of cakes in Hungary.

SOMLÓI GALUSKA ‘Hungary’s favorite dessert’ is a heavenly mix of chocolate, walnut and vanilla sponge cake, chocolate sauce, whipped cream and raisins, sometimes livened up with a touch of rum.

3 OFFBEAT HUNGARIAN STREET-FOOD VENUES 3A LÁNGOS BÁRÓ Hungary’s dependence on deep-fried dough reaches a whole new level at this popular outlet for the revered greasy treat at a Buda transport hub. Norwegian lángos anyone?

District XI. Móricz Zsigmond körtér 11. facebook.com/LangosBaro

Zserbó szelet

ZSERBÓ SZELET A holy trinity of walnut, peach marmalade and chocolate is filled into melt-in-the-mouth sponge cake, topped with a thick chocolate glazing to accentuate the sense of temptation.

3B PARADICSOM Lecsó is a stew of peppers, onions and tomatoes, made at home and never listed on any menu. Now Paradicsom, Hungary’s first lecsó-erie, offers classic and exotic varieties.

District VIII. Német utca 4. facebook.com/paradicsomworkshop 3C PÖRIZŐ Hot, sloppy stew? In a pancake? Yup, classic Hungarian pörkölt is the stock in trade of Pöriző, an old-school street-food outlet at Arany János metro. Meat-filled or meat-free.

District V. Podmaniczky Frigyes tér 4. porizo.hu

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DINING & STREET FOOD

Gerbeaud

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 MOST ORNATE COFFEEHOUSES 4A CENTRÁL Dating back to 1887, aptly located downtown Centrál safeguards its prestigious literary past while operating with a cosmopolitan mindset. Décor and desserts echo the golden days. District V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9. centralkavehaz.hu 4B GERBEAUD ‘Tradition and innovation’ is the motto of this prominent café and confectionery, founded in 1858 and made famous

by Swiss chocolatier Emil Gerbeaud, whose cake lives on. District V. Vörösmarty tér 7. gerbeaud.hu

The Ottomans brought coffee to Budapest, and coffeehouses appeared here before they came to Vienna or Paris. By 1900, the city numbered 600, some attracting the leading writers of the day.

4C GERLÓCZY Taking inspiration from Paris of the Belle Époque, Gerlóczy fills a pretty, secluded downtown square with tasteful terrace buzz. Within, dark wood and marble dominate. District V. Gerlóczy utca 1. gerloczy.hu 4D MŰVÉSZ Across from the Opera House, the Művész has its roots in the late 1800s, though its Biedermeier décor dates to the 1970s.

Chandeliers, cakes and coffees create a bygone vibe. District VI. Andrássy út 29. muveszkavehaz.hu 4E NEW YORK CAFÉ The legend of all legends, the gilded New York Café was raised from post-war slumber in 2006. Now an ornate housemate of a five-star hotel, the New York often hosts live music.

District VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11. newyorkcafe.hu

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Fenyőgyöngye

DINING & STREET FOOD

Remíz

DINING & STREET FOOD

5D REMÍZ Beside a tram depot or remíz up in leafy Buda, this pretty garden eatery barbecues ribs outside on lava stones and prides itself on its divine own-made pastries. District II. Budakeszi út 5. remiz.hu 5E STAND25 Within the Downtown Market, top-quality seasonal Hungarian products are served in a bistro atmosphere at lunchtimes (not Sundays), and Friday and Saturday evenings. District V. Hold utca 13. stand25.hu

5A BAJAI HALÁSZCSÁRDA Dining out at this tree-shaded hangout near the Svábhegy stop of the Cogwheel Railway makes a fine day trip, complemented by the house specialty, Hungary’s revered fish soup.

District XII. Hollós út 2. bajaihalaszcsarda.hu

Náncsi Néni

5 BEST TRADITIONAL HUNGARIAN EATERIES WITH TERRACES

5B FENYŐGYÖNGYE High up in the Buda Hills, terrace seating seamlessly blends indoors with out at this vintage venue, where the culinary lineup includes goulash soup and classic stews.

District II. Szépvölgyi út 155. fenyogyongye.hu 5C NÁNCSI NÉNI This perennial family-friendly favorite, tucked between residential homes in bucolic Buda, provides classic Hungarian dishes in a convivial garden with children’s playground.

District II. Ördögárok út 80. nancsineni.hu

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DINING & STREET FOOD

DINING & STREET FOOD

Costes

5 REASSURINGLY EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS 6A BORKONYHA Michelin-starred Borkonyha translates as Wine Kitchen, a showcase for 200 Hungarian varieties, and the inventive, seasonal, contemporary cuisine of Ákos Sárközi. Closed Sundays. District V. Sas utca 3. borkonyha.hu 6B COSTES The first restaurant in Budapest to gain a Michelin star, Costes presents its seasonally selected cuisine in small courses, matched with fine Hungarian and global wines. District IX. Ráday utca 4. costes.hu 6C FAUSTO’S A revered showcase for personable owner Fausto di Vora, who has worked in the kitchens of London, Venice and New York, Fausto’s is a classy Italian with an osteria next door.

District VII. Dohány utca 3. fausto.hu 6D GUNDEL The epitome of Hungarian hospitality, lending its name to the street it sits on by City Park, historic Gundel personifies elegance – guests have included Queen Elizabeth II. District XIV. Gundel Károly út 4. gundel.hu 6E ONYX In the same prominent building as historic confectionery Gerbeaud, Onyx has just earned 2 Michelin stars thanks to its elaborate 6- and 8-course menus, overseen by chef Ádám Mészáros. District V. Vörösmarty tér 7. onyxrestaurant.hu

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DINING & STREET FOOD

Madal

DINING & STREET FOOD

7D FEKETE Aptly meaning ‘black’ in Hungarian, Fekete is where flavorsome coffee is served at a bijou hangout tucked in a hidden courtyard near Pest’s busy Astoria intersection. District V. Múzeum körút 5. facebook.com/feketekv

Fekete

7E MADAL Multiple locations of this welcoming coffee enterprise all honor spiritual leader Sri Chinmoy. The newest site near Parliament is a soothing sipping destination. District V. Alkotmány utca 4. madalcafe.hu

7 NEW-WAVE CAFÉS SERVING SUPERB COFFEE 7A BUDAPEST BARISTAS Offering concoctions created with the conscientiously procured products of The Coffee Collective in Denmark, this people-watching paradise also provides hearty breakfasts.

District V. Múzeum körút 15. facebook.com/budapestbaristas 7B CUBE Opened by a charming Canadian expat in 2017, Cube attracts a loyal crowd who sip micro-roasted Nariño coffee while tucking into buttery pastries baked in-house each morning. District VI. Hunyadi tér 8. facebook.com/cubecoffeebar

7F MY GREEN CUP Earth tones and good vibes envelop customers at this café on a tree-lined street near the Danube, where a delicious flat white can be savored with healthy desserts. District XIII. Pozsonyi út 15. facebook.com/mygreencup

7C ESPRESSO EMBASSY Diplomats and dogs are equally welcome at this quality café centrally sited among the official buildings downtown – try the Ethiopian filter coffee or the chai latte. District V. Arany János utca 15. facebook.com/EspressoEmbassy

7G TAMP & PULL Since 2012, these dedicated baristas have continually poured perfect cups of java at reasonable prices. If ordering a cappuccino, be sure to admire the milk-foam artwork. District IX. Czuczor utca 3. facebook.com/tamppull

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Pizza Manufaktúra

5 DESTINATIONS FOR A LEISURELY BREAKFAST

Villa Bagatelle

DINING & STREET FOOD

Villa Bagatelle

DINING & STREET FOOD

8A À LA MAISON Indulge yourself in wonderful waffles, egg-based eats, hearty plates of morning boosters or healthy bites amid chic French décor at this eatery, with breakfasts until 5pm. District V. Nádor utca 5. alamaisongrand.com 8B CSERPES Late risers are welcomed at Cserpes with great breakfast specials, grilled sandwiches, salads, fruit bowls, pastries and one of the best cocoa rolls in town, at various locations all day. cserpestejivo.hu 8C SZIMPLA HÁZTÁJI This quality-conscious, bohemian and friendly downtown hangout satisfies morning cravings with cup creams, sandwiches, omelets, pastries, coffees and freshly squeezed juices.

District VII. Kazinczy utca 7. szimpla.eu 8D VILLA BAGATELLE Housed in an elegant property, Villa Bagatelle is a prime location for romantic gourmet getaways amid the greenery of Buda. Palatable breakfasts are served all day long.

District XII. Németvölgyi út 17. villa-bagatelle.com 8E ZOSKA This bite-sized breakfast place is simply charming.

They serve classic morning favorites all day long amid book-lined shelves and chic décor, with a little indoor picnic area.

District V. Ferenczy István utca 28. zoska.hu

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ART & CULTURE Culture-centric Budapest has plenty for the foreign visitor to enjoy, with language often no barrier to communication. Strong in the visual arts, particularly photography, the city contains revered cinemas showing English-friendly films and renowned institutions of classical music, some founded or graced by Franz Liszt.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

s o n á J lázs

Only 29, János Balázs is a hum ble but passionate piano prodigy. Win ner of the Franz Liszt International Piano Com petition in 2011, he is one of the most talente d pianists of his generation, melting hearts ove r the globe when his fingers stroke the key s.

Ba

WLB: When you play, do you feel the weight of expectation, given that Hun gary is the land of Liszt – or does it inspire you?

JB: Hungary has nur tured so many musical greats that the local audience is exceptio nally sophisticated, with high expectations. For me, play ing here is incredibly valuable and inspiring. When it comes to choice of concert hall, a personal con nection has the mos t importance. The Music Academ y is my second home.

This is where I learnt and whe re I perform the mos t today. I have traveled everyw here but I’m proud to say that Budapest is one of the mos t beautiful cities in the world. It feels fantasti c to come home and see the Citadella.

See balazsjanos.com for mor

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ART & CULTUR E

Franz Liszt Memorial Museum

ART & CULTUR E

3 VENUES WITH CHALLENGING CONTEMPORARY CULTURE 1A KUNSTHALLE On Heroes’ Square, regularly changing exhibitions feature progressive painting, avant-garde sculpture and intriguing installations by renowned local and international artists.

District XIV. Dózsa György út 37. mucsarnok.hu 1B LUDWIG Integral to the millennial arts complex of south Pest, this riverside cultural space highlights modern art by major names. Quality Hungarian designer gifts fill the museum shop.

District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. ludwigmuseum.hu 1C PALACE OF ARTS (MÜPA) Budapest’s most modern performance hall frequently showcases the talents of young Hungarian and international artists in all genres.

District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. mupa.hu

Ludwig

3 PLACES GRACED BY FRANZ LISZT 2A FRANZ LISZT MEMORIAL MUSEUM Here Liszt founded a music academy in 1875, which also served as his residence. It now houses a Liszt memorial museum, containing his original instruments and manuscripts. District VI. Vörösmarty utca 35. lisztmuseum.hu 2B FRANZ LISZT MUSIC ACADEMY Later named after its founder, the Music Academy is an ornate concert hall and educational center, gorgeously renovated in 2013. A statue of the revered composer stands outside. District VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. zeneakademia.hu 2C PESTI VIGADÓ Recently renovated, with guided tours in English, the Vigadó witnessed Liszt, Strauss and Wagner conduct.

Facing the Danube, this elegant landmark now hosts regular concerts.

District V. Vigadó tér 2. vigado.hu

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ART & CULTUR E

ART & CULTUR E

House of Terror

3 CINEMAS FOR RETRO ENGLISH-FRIENDLY FILMS 4A BEM CINEMA Reopened in 2016, Buda’s century-old repertory cinema presents cult movies and notable films from recent decades, showing with original audio soundtrack, some with subtitles.

District II. Margit körút 5. facebook.com/BemMozi 4B BUDAPEST ROOFTOP CINEMA On the panoramic rooftop of focal Corvin Club, a summer series of films shows on a big outdoor screen, including Hungarian evergreen classics with English subtitles. District VIII. Blaha Lujza tér 1-2. budapestrooftopcinema.hu 4C MŰVÉSZ At one of Budapest’s most popular art-house theaters, annual film events and movie festivals cater to Englishspeaking cinephiles, happy to watch a string of old-time classics.

District VI. Teréz körút 30. muveszmozi.hu

3A HOUSE OF TERROR Set in the same building where unspeakable tortures took place, the House of Terror displays the horrors of political repression. Chilling videos complete the picture.

District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu

Bem Cinema

3 MUSEUMS WITH THEIR OWN HISTORY

3B NATIONAL GALLERY Filling wings A-D of the Buda Castle Palace, the National Gallery was a medieval royal residence bitterly fought over during World War II and to end Turkish rule in 1686.

District I. Szent György tér 2. mng.hu 3C NATIONAL MUSEUM Supposedly where poet Sándor Petőfi recited his Nemzeti dal to instigate the 1848 Revolution, the National Museum sees crowds gather annually in celebration of the event. District VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16. mnm.hu

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HUNGARIAN PHOTOGRAPHY Having nurtured remarkable artists such as Robert Capa, André Kertész and the brilliant Brassaï, Hungary is justifiably proud of its world-renowned photographic heritage. All three figures converged on Paris in the 1920s, finding critical success and acceptance in the ever-developing world of press and artistic photography.

Each then earned his legendary reputation abroad.

To this day, many don’t even know that Capa, born in Budapest as Endre Friedmann, was Hungarian. Today, the Capa Center at Nagymező utca 8 honors his memory, a photo gallery with challenging temporary exhibitions, occasionally showcasing Capa’s own works. Nearby at No.20, the Mai Manó Ház also hosts regular shows, in a house part-converted into a studio in the 1880s by a photographer to the Habsburg court.

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Museum of Electrotechnics

ART & CULTUR E

Pinball Museum

ART & CULTUR E

5D POSTAL MUSEUM The history of Hungarian mail delivery and telegraphy is shown here, from Morse machines to mailbags, along with uniforms, post vans, postcards, franked mail and telegraphs.

District VI. Benczúr utca 27. postamuzeum.hu 5E ROCK MUSEUM Original guitars, posters and tape decks reflect an era when rock music was a bad influence from the West. An interactive map of Budapest shows the key live venues of the day. District XIII. Kárpát utca 23. rockcsarnok.hu

5A FLAG MUSEUM Run by dedicated vexillophile László Balogh, this charmingly obscure institution is filled with bright flags, emblems and coats of arms from all four corners of the globe. District VIII. József körút 68. zaszlok.hu

Postal Museum

5 HIDDEN GEM MUSEUMS

5B MUSEUM OF ELECTROTECHNICS Vintage generators, coils and telephones bring to life a former transformer station in the Jewish Quarter. Old neon lines the courtyard, illuminated each June for Museums Night. District VII. Kazinczy utca 21. elektromuzeum.hu 5C PINBALL MUSEUM This retro heaven of a museum contains 130 pinball machines, arranged in order, from the earliest wooden model made in 1871 to gaudy neon wonders with multiple flippers.

District XIII. Radnóti Miklós utca 18. flippermuzeum.hu

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ART & CULTUR E

The Art of Gastronomy, the Gastronomy of Art Photo: András Farkas

ART & CULTUR E

7 BEST STREET MURALS 6A ALICE IN WONDERLAND Borrowing from the atmosphere of the children’s book, this mural hints that the hopes and dreams of youngsters need to be nurtured with motivation to flourish in the future. District VII. Kertész utca 6B THE ART OF GASTRONOMY, THE GASTRONOMY OF ART For this variegated artwork, a charming creature combines a love for gastronomy and art by throwing the spotlight on paprika, the revered staple of Hungarian cuisine. District VII. Kertész utca 6C BLUE IN GREEN This mesmerizing mural painted by two Polish artists plays with the idea of an absurd and vaguely Kafkaesque underwater world, mingling stunning shades of blue and green. District IX. Lenhossék utca 6D BLIND DATE Depicting a man waiting in vain for his date, this mural reflects on general issues of a generation living in the virtual world: loneliness and the loss of human interaction.

District XI. Rákóczi Bridge, Buda side 6E BEST DRINK IN EXISTENCE This artwork attempts to reveal the secret recipe of the ‘Best Drink in Existence’, the Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, from cult classic The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy.

District VII. Kertész utca 6F GREETINGS FROM BP In this graphic graffiti, a playful character paddles in a moonlit Danube while holding together Budapest’s two divergent sides, showing the city’s splendid symbiosis. District XI. Rákóczi Bridge, Buda side 6G LOVE THY NEIGHBOR Right in the heart of Budapest’s bar quarter, where party nights are often wild and noisy, this masterful mural is a friendly reminder for everyone to love thy neighbor. District VII. Dob utca

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ART & CULTUR E

Vasarely Museum

ART & CULTUR E

7C NATIONAL GALLERY In a vast permanent collection spanning 800 years of Hungarian art, pride of place is given to the works of influential 19th-century painter Mihály Munkácsy and his followers.

District I. Szent György tér 2. mng.hu 7D NATIONAL MUSEUM 19th-century artist Miklós Barabás drew and painted major local figures and scenes, some on display in the National Museum. Look out for Adam Clark, of Chain Bridge fame.

District VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16. mnm.hu

5 GALLERIES FEATURING GREAT HUNGARIAN ARTISTS 7A KASSÁK MUSEUM With an extensive permanent exhibition, temporary shows, lectures and events, this Óbuda museum honors the legacy of the father of the Hungarian avant-garde, Lajos Kassák. District III. Fő tér 1. kassakmuzeum.hu 7B KISCELLI MUSEUM In a converted Baroque monastery in a leafy part of Óbuda, the major Hungarian artists on display include József Rippl-Rónai, a pioneer of Hungarian Post-Impressionism. District III. Kiscelli utca 108. kiscellimuzeum.hu

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Kiscelli Museum

7E VASARELY MUSEUM The life and work of op-art master Victor Vasarely is celebrated at this Óbuda institution, from his early creations in advertising to major pieces from the 1960s and 1970s.

District III. Szentlélek tér 6. vasarely.hu

Csontváry worked as a chemist until a vision led him to his true calling of painting, and to exotic settings around the Mediterranean. There he created vast canvases depicting cedar trees, waterfalls and Biblical scenes. These works are now given prominence in the National Gallery, granting the artist the recognition he never found in his lifetime.

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Széchenyi Baths

SPAS & ACTIVITIES Summer sees Budapest come out to play, either to soak and party at the city’s famed spa baths, or to make best use of the many parks and recreational areas. The Duna Aréna pool is also opening to the public, having hosted the FINA Championships in 2017.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Márton Fülep

rton Fülep fell Budapest-based kayaker Má was 11 and has in love with the sport when he Today his club been roaming rivers ever since. teaches kayaking to all ages.

on the Danube, how does WLB: Tell us about kayaking of both sides from a frontit feel to see the panorama row seat?

garet Island, an excellent MF: We always star t from Mar ter, easily accessible for spot as it is close to the cen great recreational area. people after work and it is a nd Student Builders’ We formed the Margaret Isla we have 32 members, Canoe Club in 1997 and now . I’ve been kayaking since both sportsmen and trainers to fall in love with this I was 11 and I think it is easy be a confident swimmer sport. I did. All you need is to a stable sea kayak. and then learn the basics in breathtaking sunsets Admiring the panorama, the as you drift down the and the illuminated bridges experience.

Danube is a truly exceptional See kajaksziget.hu for more

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Kopaszi-gát

SPAS & ACTIVITIES

Kopaszi-gát

SPAS & ACTIVITIES

1E OMSZKI-TÓ Known for its wakeboard center, this pleasant lake in Budakalász north of town has a relaxed vibe, ideal for summer chilling and watching acrobatic maneuvers performed on water. Budakalász 1F ORCZY-KERT Hidden in plain sight in District VIII, this pleasant garden and lake entice sun-seeking locals looking to escape the urban bustle without having to leave the city entirely. District VIII

7 TRANQUIL SUNBATHING SPOTS

1B KOPASZI-GÁT Public ferryboats ply the Danube between the city center and Kopaszi-gát, a south Buda leisure zone popular for tanning thanks to its breezy riverfront location and finely kept lawns. District XI

Margaret Island

1A FENEKETLEN-TÓ This sprawling lake, believed to plunge deep into the Earth’s crust, is a beloved Buda hangout where abundant greenery provides a nice backdrop as you soak up rays. District XI

1G SZENT ISTVÁN PARK Surrounded by classic Bauhaus buildings, this riverfront parkland is a popular picnic spot, where plenty of sunlit spaces provide the ideal conditions for taking a break. District XIII

1C MARGARET ISLAND This long green refuge in the center of the Danube lends itself to taking in vitamin D, plenty of trees providing pleasant shade to avoid direct sunlight. Accessed by trams 4 and 6.

District XIII 1D NAPLÁS-TÓ An hour by public transport from the Örs Vezér tere metro hub, this sedate lakeside destination offers plenty of fresh air and a pretty panorama for sun-splashed lounging. District XVI

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SPARTIES A fun combination of spas and parties, sparties take full advantage of Budapest being a major destination for both bathing and after-dark revelry. Sparties, one-off DJ nights held at historic spas around town, grew out of the rave culture of the early 1990s.

The ornate grand dame of Budapest baths, the Széchenyi, held the first sparty, mainly attended by an intimate circle of initiates.

Promotion was by word of mouth.

Word then spread, and soon there were

sparties at the Rudas, the Gellért, the Király and the Lukács. Then someone had the bright idea of bringing visuals to the party, aka Cinetrip, where imaginative screenings complement the dance sounds. These are still held on an occasional basis. For dates and venues, also for upcoming regular waterborne bashes, see spartybooking.com. Bring swimwear, towels, dressing gowns, flip-flops and, if so required, inflatables. Payment for drinks and snacks is by sparty-specific smart card.

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SPAS & ACTIVITIES

Gellért Baths

SPAS & ACTIVITIES

3 PARKS WITH SUPERB SPORTS FACILITIES 3A BIKÁS PARK By the metro station of the same name in Buda, Bikás Park has a mixture of sports facilities, including outdoor fitness equipment, a jogging course and a basketball court. District XI 3B CITY PARK Summer sees the City Park in action, with rowing, five-a-side football, basketball and jogging, as well as lábtengó, a local football-tennis mix. The Széchenyi Baths are also close by. District XIV 3C MARGARET ISLAND The running track encircling this idyllic getaway

by Margaret Bridge is conveniently rubberized, handy for panoramic jogging along the Danube, and kind on the soles too. District XIII

City Park

3 FABULOUSLY ORNATE SPA BATHS 2A GELLÉRT Within the landmark hotel of the same name, also dating to 1918, these classic baths created in similar Art Nouveau style are an architectural gem and a recreational retreat. District XI. Kellenhegyi út 4. gellertfurdo.hu 2B RUDAS Despite the rooftop pool that came with the 2014 rebuild, the Rudas still echoes its Ottoman heritage thanks to restoration of its interior, including the original cupola. District I. Döbrentei tér 9. rudasfurdo.hu 2C SZÉCHENYI Grandiose façades surround Budapest’s most popular spa baths, their Neo-Baroque touches providing the perfect backdrop for the classic image of chess players in the water.

District XIV. Állatkerti körút 9-11. szechenyifurdo.hu

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SPAS & ACTIVITIES

SPAS & ACTIVITIES

Lupa-tó

5 OUTDOOR PLUNGE ZONES 4A AQUAWORLD At the northern edge of Pest, a gigantic water park offers rip-roaring attractions indoors and out, including a massive slide 1km long, a mountain river and a wave pool. District IV. Íves út 16. aquaworldresort.hu 4B LUPA-TÓ A white sandy shore makes the perfect day trip from Budapest, with turquoise water, comfy sunbeds, beach bars and several water sports, including sailing and canoeing. Tó utca 1, Budakalász. lupato.hu 4C PALATINUS Along with regular swimming and leisure pools, an activity zone features a speedy race slide, a wave pool and musical slides, in the convivial setting of Margaret Island. District XIII. Margitsziget. palatinusstrand.hu 4D PASKÁL Among its many attractive amenities, a swimming pool, a thermal-water facility and a diving zone make Paskál a popular water park with locals up in distant Zugló. District XIV. Egressy út 178. paskalfurdo.hu 4E RÓMAI In a part of Budapest once colonized by the Romans, a huge outdoor leisure zone includes loopy tubes and children’s slides. Adults can unwind under the neck-massaging jets. District III. Rozgonyi Piroska utca 2. romaistrand.hu

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SHOPS & MARKETS Retro heaven for collectors of vinyl, books and vintage clothes, Budapest also knows a thing or two about cutting-edge design. Its markets are a must, either for artisanal produce or radio-era junk, while imaginative souvenirs express the idiosyncratic spirit of the city. Payment by plastic is widespread but not universal.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Gerge ly

Gergely Ofella runs Self-styled cheesemaster major markets Boci tejbolt outlets at two uzál tér, the in Pest, Hunyadi tér and Kla an producers, the first for artisanal Hungari away in a corner second for Italian. Tucked vös utca, are of Hunyadi tér, nearest Eöt oss Hungary and some 60 varieties from acr Transylvania.

WLB: How did your busines

Ofella

s start out and develop?

s at Bosnyák tér market GO: We had a family busines ing. I set up the Hunyadi so I was familiar with trad out cheeses by smalltér stall in 2013, and sought Pretty soon there was a batch domestic producers. forward, our business whole wave of them coming we had to expand. We now became more popular, and ducts, all additive-free, have room for scores of pro Transylvania, the historic many Alpine varieties from . We also supply to many heartland of cheesemaking . restaurants around the city lt for more info.

See facebook.com/bocitejbo

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SHOPS & MARKETS

SHOPS & MARKETS

Citygraph

5 IDEAS FOR ORIGINAL BUDAPEST SOUVENIRS 1A CITYGRAPH Map-like graphics depict Hungary’s capital, all hand-drawn in fine detail. Besides illustrations from a bird’s-eye perspective, surreal artworks feature industrial Budapest. citygraph.net 1B FOLQA From a starry-eyed shepherd to a vintner and a cattle herd, a collection of funny figurines represents traditional Hungarian occupations.

Each one comes with a witty message. folqa.com 1C HUNCUT This waggish design merchandise is a creative take on all things Hungarian: chimney-cake air freshener, urban scarves portraying M3 metro cars, and many more amusing items. satorspace.com 1D MARCUS GOLDSON Capturing the colorful detail of daily life in Budapest, Goldson creates Hogarthian scenes for postcards and fashion accessories, evoking the city’s idiosyncratic spirit. marcusgoldson.co.uk 1E ZSOLT VIDÁK Vibrant illustrations depict Budapest life on sizeable prints and postcards. Portrayals of local denizens in everyday situations are backdropped by a cavalcade of urban color. zsoltvidak.com

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Rock In’ Box

SHOPS & MARKETS

Rock In’ Box

SHOPS & MARKETS

2D ROCK IN’ BOX Images of the Beatles outside may lull you into a false sense of familiarity but stock here is obscure, doo-wop and rockabilly offset by Czechoslovak retro. Closed weekends.

District VI. Paulay Ede utca 8. rockinbox.net

5 OUTLETS FOR VINYL OLD AND NEW

2B

Rock In’ Box

2A AKTRECORDS A hip boutique dedicated to DJ vinyl and soughtafter streetwear, Aktrecords presents its discs in categories such as Deephouse and Breakcore/Hard Jungle. DJ decks also feature.

District VI. Ó utca 35. aktrecords.hu

2E WAVE Flying the black flag for punk, indie and new wave, this long-established outlet also stocks rap, jazz and Soviet releases on the Melodiya label. T-shirts express punk sentiment.

District VI. Révay köz 1. wave.hu

DEEP Behind the House of Terror, Deep is a treasure trove of DJ tunes from hundreds of obscure labels, overseen by a knowledgeable staff. Rock and indie albums are also stocked.

District VI. Aradi utca 22. deep.hu 2C LEMEZKUCKÓ A classic secondhand vinyl store with reverence for the golden age of pop and rock, spacious ‘Record Nook’ is tucked behind the Király utca tram stop on the Grand Boulevard.

District VII. Király utca 67. lemezkucko.hu

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SHOPS & MARKETS

Czakó Piacz

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 GREAT HUNGARIAN FASHION BRANDS 4A ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, Hungarian designer Eszter Áron makes personal pieces that evoke effortless elegance by combining superb quality and innovative craftsmanship. aeron.hu 4B NORA SARMAN Primarily popular for handmade bridal dresses made of the highest quality silk and French lace, the brand by Budapestbased designer Nora Sarman has a unique romantic touch. norasarman.com

3 BEST FARMERS’ MARKETS

Áeron

4C NUBU Creating timeless garments and accessories with urban style in mind, NUBU harmonizes a sophisticated, contemporary and clean design with unique cuts, comfort and function. District VI. Andrássy út 13 & MOM Mall. nubu.hu

3A CZAKÓ PIACZ A laid-back hangout in Buda’s Tabán district turns into a rustic bazaar every Saturday from 8am to 2pm.

Expect fresh pastries, organic fruit, meat, dairy and vegan treats.

District I. Czakó utca 15. czakokert.hu 3B DOWNTOWN MARKET This modern market hall built according to century-old plans is divided into two large farmers’ markets, with a gastro center containing bistros and street-food kiosks.

District V. Hold utca. belvarospiac.hu 3C SZIMPLA FARMERS’ MARKET On Sundays from 9am, a longestablished circle of vendors offers all kinds of fresh produce, meats, cheeses and vegetables, within quirky ruin bar queen Szimpla Kert.

District VII. Kazinczy utca 14. szimpla.hu

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ECSERI The mother of all flea markets, Ecseri operates all week, with Saturdays busiest. Set way down in District XIX at Nagykőrösi út 156 (take half-hourly bus 54 or 55 from Boráros tér and alight at Naszód utca), this sprawling wonderland of junk can be confusing for the first-time visitor. Tourists have pushed up prices and you may find yourself paying too much for that painting or East German camera. Tips include arriving early – or late, when vendors are packing up. Saturday hours are 6am to 3pm, Sunday’s 8am-1pm. If it’s specific art or furniture you’re after, take an expert. Haggle (most vendors have enough English), but if the item is obviously valuable, don’t expect to make off with a bargain. And, finally, remember that whatever you pick up, you have to take home – do you really need that dining table? Communist-era tat, however, badges, toys or Soviet hats, always make original presents.

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SHOPS & MARKETS

Falk Miksa utca

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 BEST VINTAGE SHOPS FOR TRASH AND TREASURE 5A B A B A This treasure trove of trashy wonders offers old-fashioned items from an iconic Nokia 9300 phone to vintage wear and temporary tattoos. Currently moving, see website for details. facebook.com/ babaconceptstore 5B CYDONIA VINTAGE English teahouse and bijou boutique in one.

If you’re fond of the fashion trends of bygone times, head to this fairy-tale shop offering wearable time machines from the past.

District VII. Akácfa utca 37-39. facebook.com/CydoniaVintage

Cydonia Vintage

5C LOVEBUG VINTAGE This funky 75-square-meter flat is filled with acid-washed high-waist jeans, oversized jackets, stylish sunglasses, septum rings and one-of-a-kind items from around the world.

District II. Margit körút 62. facebook.com/lovebugvintage

3 STREETS FOR BROWSING FOR ARTY AND ANTIQUE TREASURE 6A FALK MIKSA UTCA Intersecting with focal Kossuth tér, this gallerylined street is a treasure trove for century-old paintings, period furniture, ornate porcelain and antiquated silverware. District V 6B KIRÁLY UTCA A spacious vinyl store, a secondhand bookshop and obscure outlets selling antiques are wedged between modern hangouts along Király utca, either side of the Grand Boulevard. Districts VI./VII 6C MÚZEUM KÖRÚT Lining the sidewalk opposite the Hungarian National Museum, a browser’s paradise of secondhand bookshops offers many editions in English, archive maps, posters and postcards. District V

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

St. Andrea Wine & Skybar

Many visit Budapest for the nightlife alone. A party weekend destination par excellence, frenzied in summer, Hungary’s capital is famed for its ruin bars, its alfresco clubs and its wine locales. Recent trends include craft beer and a penchant for nightspots sited on panoramic rooftops.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

Among several women rising in Hungary’s male-dominated electronica scene, Magyar audio artists Laura and Annam ária Tóth are the Wave Twins, a techno duo earning prominence amid Budapest’s nightlife for creatively melodic live sets at clubs such as LÄRM, Auróra and Toldi.

WLB: How has Budapest’s nigh tlife evolved in recent years to encourage the emergence of female electronica artists?

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WT: The electronic-music scen e in Budapest has only just been regaining territory during the last couple of years, so everyone is kind of und errepresented. However, some promoters and clubs such as LÄRM consciously focus on giving opportunities to more women, so while it is still a male-dominated prof ession, we are finding our place. As the music scene grows more accepting and assertive, more of us will pop up – in the end, hard work and talent should be the deci ding factors.

See facebook.com/wavetwin

s for more info.

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

Champs Sport Pub

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

1C GRUND Behind Corvin Plaza, this extensive ruin-pub complex puts football first when it comes to major events, crowds gathered in Budapest’s largest screening area in the back garden.

District VIII. Nagytemplom utca 30. agrund.hu 1D HOUSE BAR & KITCHEN A huge screen, home-made Argentine empanadas and drinks deals are the features of this student-friendly venue on Budapest’s Broadway. Guess-the-score prizes for big matches.

District VI. Nagymező utca 40. facebook.com/HouseBarBudapest 1E KICKOFF SPORT BÁR Two rooms, five HD TVs and affordable beers make this District VI venue a convenient choice to watch the game. Lotteries and prediction games arranged on big-match nights.

District VI. Zichy Jenő utca 22. kickoffsportbar.hu 1F STIFLER With 4 locations in Pest, including Erzsébet körút 19 and 36 on the Grand Boulevard, U.S.-style sports bar Stifler offers live action, quality burgers and pool tables a-plenty. facebook.com/stifleramericanbar

7 PLACES TO WATCH THE WORLD CUP

1B CHAMPS SPORT PUB Head downstairs past a mural of Hungarian Olympian heroes to find a popular cellar filled with TVs and football shirts, close to Budapest’s bar vortex. Food also served.

District VII. Dohány utca 20. facebook.com/champssportpub

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Though not involved in this summer’s World Cup, Hungary have appeared more times in the final than England or Spain.

Each occasion is shrouded in myth. Did Mussolini interfere with Hungary’s team selection for Italy to win in 1938? Was Ferenc Puskás fit to play in 1954?

Was his late goal legal? Each time, Hungary lost – and debate has raged since.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Champs Sport Pub

1A CALEDONIA This authentic Scottish pub fills for football all year round but really goes to town for big tournaments, with themed drinks nights according to which teams are playing. District VI. Mozsár utca 9. caledonia.hu

1G PUSKÁS PANCHO SPORT PUB Integral to the Symbol Budapest dining complex, this football-focused gastrobar in Óbuda is themed around Hungary’s greatest player, Puskás to Magyars, Pancho to Madrileños. District III. Bécsi út 56. symbolbudapest.hu

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

360 Bar

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

3 BEST VENUES FOR LIVE MUSIC 3A AKVÁRIUM As central as it can get, Akvárium comprises a quality indoor live venue with an expansive summer terrace. Late opening hours allow for extensive post-gig lingering. District V. Erzsébet tér 12. akvariumklub.hu 3B BUDAPEST PARK This enormous seasonal outdoor venue hosts the likes of Billy Idol and Alice In Chains this summer, along with major domestic acts, all broadcast on a huge LED screen.

District IX. Soroksári út 60. budapestpark.hu 3C DÜRER KERT Once a school run by nuns then a leisure complex for Communist Party leaders, the Dürer Kert by the City Park is a punk/metal venue par excellence. Outdoor bar in summer.

District XIV. Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21. durerkert.com

Akvárium

3 ROOFTOP BARS WHERE TOP DJS PLAY 2A 360 BAR Enjoy the high life at this lofty lounge serving strong drinks and full meals amid wraparound Budapest views, with the starry scene scored by masterful music mixers. District VI. Andrássy út 39. 360bar.hu 2B CORVIN CLUB One of Budapest’s best ruin pubs – sited atop an oldschool department store – features a sprawling terrace where local and international DJs get groovy all night long. District VIII. Blaha Lujza tér 1-2. corvinclub.hu 2C INTERMEZZO The panoramic terrace of the downtown Hotel President serves as a stylish nightlife setting for summertime celebrations enlivened by electronica experts performing live.

District V. Hold utca 3-5. hotelpresident.hu

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7 BEST HOSTELRIES FOR HUNGARIAN WINE

Veritas

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

Doblo

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

4D KADARKA A colorful interior and a bustling terrace make this a haunt for young urbanites sipping namesake Kadarka, fruity Irsai Olivér and rarely found seasonal siller wines. District VI. Király utca 42. kadarkabar.hu

4A APROPÓ A fine assortment of products from Hungary’s smallscale wineries that you won’t find in most places is served by the glass at this homely hangout in the party vortex. District VII. Király utca 39. facebook.com/apropobudapest

4E PALACK Golden Furmint from Tokaj and Szekszárd’s aromatic Pinot Noir go well with tasteful platters served on Buda’s Szent Gellért tér, just steps away from Liberty Bridge. District XI. Szent Gellért tér 3. palackborbar.hu

4B DIVINO With a focus on Hungarian labels, a pair of prime locales near St. Stephen’s Basilica and at Gozsdu udvar offers red, white and rosé wines by local young winemakers. District V. Szent István tér 3 & VII. Király utca 13. divinoborbar.hu

4F ST. ANDREA WINE & SKYBAR To provide a scenic milieu for sipping heavenly nectars, the Eger-based St. Andrea winery offers its prime libations to a high-class crowd on an upscale roof terrace.

District V. Deák Ferenc utca 5. standreaskybar.hu

4C DOBLO In the heart of the Jewish Quarter, tastefully dimmed lights and elegantly exposed brick walls entice oenophiles to enjoy an excellent variety of Magyar-made wines. District VII. Dob utca 20. budapestwine.com

4G VERITAS Just a glance through the oversized windows of this District VII bistro lures people in to pair Hungarian wines with artisanal cheeses and renowned local mangalica pork. District VII. Dohány utca 58-62. veritaswinebar.hu

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5 OPEN-AIR HOTSPOTS FOR STARRY NIGHTS OUT

Pontoon

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5C PONTOON Situated directly next to the Pest side of the iconic Chain Bridge, this alfresco hangout is ideal for gathering with good friends to watch the sunset and moonrise. District V. Antall József rakpart 1. pontoonbudapest.com

5A A38 While the huge concert hall in the hull of this pleasure boat hosts shows all year round, the bow bar and top-deck dance floor also welcome party people in summertime.

District XI. Petőfi Bridge, Buda side. a38.hu

5D RAKTÁR BEACH Escape Budapest’s bustle with a one-evening vacation to this riverfront bar at the southern tip of Margaret Island, where cold beer and good tunes provide a playful mood. District XIII. Margaret Island. raktarbeach.hu

5B HIGH NOTE SKYBAR Enjoy deluxe delights at this exclusive rooftop lounge located atop a chic boutique hotel near St. Stephen’s Basilica. Perfect for cocktails and panoramic skyline views.

District V. Hercegprímás utca 5. highnoteskybar.hu

5E RAQPART Thumping techno beats resound across the Danube from this classy site on the Pest side of the Chain Bridge, where renowned DJs spin discs late on wild summer nights. District V. Jane Haining rakpart. raqpart.hu

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5 COCKTAIL BARS WHERE MIXOLOGISTS CREATE OFF THE CUFF

Warmup

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

Warmup

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

6A BAR PHARMA This bijou bar in Budapest’s party hub is one of the most original. They serve uniquely creative concoctions in bizarre glasses such as the so-called medication bottle. District VII. Kazinczy utca 35. facebook.com/barPharma 6B BLACK SWAN This exclusive hotspot honors high-class bar culture in the party quarter with a sleek black-and-gold interior, a sophisticated cosmopolitan spirit and mind-blowing drinks. District VII. Klauzál utca 32. facebook.com/blackswanbudapest 6C BOUTIQ’BAR This cool bar has been righteously ranked among the world’s top 50 cocktail bars. Here, mixers take pride in their work by constantly creating succulent signature drinks.

District VI. Paulay Ede utca 5. boutiqbar.hu 6D HOTSY TOTSY Step through a barbershop’s secret door to find yourself in Prohibition-era New York at this speakeasy-style bar. Drinks here are incredibly intoxicating and far too tasty.

District VII. Síp utca 24. facebook.com/hotobp 6E WARMUP At this cool drinking destination, tell the experimental mixologists which flavors you crave and receive custom-made cocktails that will exceed your wildest expectations. District VII. Nagy Diófa utca 26. warmupbudapest.hu

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RUIN BARS A particularly and peculiarly Budapest invention, ruin bars developed in District VII, where urban spaces stood neglected. Filling them with skip-found furniture, fairylights and street art, savvy bar owners created a new kind of venue, whose bohemian vibe appealed year-round and whose courtyards lent themselves to summer revelry. Walls doubled up as cinema screens, DJs span discs and sassy staff provided affordable drinks. No entry fee and dangerously long opening hours helped things along nicely. After the groundbreaking Szimpla Kert came a flood of nearby copyists, some only lasting one summer, others for years. Soon, every foreign partygoer, Brit stag and Spanish fiesta seeker alike had descended on District VII to make merry. The result? Ruin bars everywhere, bouncers on the door and residents unhappy at the noise and mess. A proposal to curtail operations is currently stalled but may yet hold sway.

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

Szimpla Kert

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

7C FOGAS HÁZ/INSTANT Trippy statues and psychedelic light shows continually catch your eye at this mega party palace that occupies multiple derelict buildings in the heart of the party zone.

District VII. Akácfa utca 49-51. fogashaz.hu; instant.co.hu 7D KUPLUNG A life-sized sculpture of a whale skeleton inexplicably hangs above the dance floor of this popular concert venue, while multihued paper lamps illuminate the patio bar.

District VI. Király utca 46. facebook.com/Kuplung

5 RUIN BARS WITH THE MOST OFFBEAT DESIGN 7A CSENDES Check out the broken toys and bizarre bric-à-brac covering the crumbling walls of this colorful hangout tucked on a side street by the Astoria crossroads in downtown Pest.

District V. Ferenczy István utca 5. csend.es 7B ELLÁTÓ KERT Experience a fiesta atmosphere amid bright Mexican motifs in this lively hangout in Budapest’s party vortex. Set for a new location in District VIII by the summer of 2018.

District VII. Kazinczy utca 48. facebook.com/pages/Ellàtò-Kert

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Csendes

7E SZIMPLA KERT Considered a bona fide Budapest institution, this pioneering ruin pub is festooned inside and out with a museumquality collection of quirky kitsch and abstract art pieces. District VII. Kazinczy utca 14. szimpla.hu

At any given ruin bar, you’ll see local drinkers staggering around clutching tumblers of clearish liquid. Surely they can’t be drinking pints of wine? Not quite.

The drink of choice for summer in Budapest is fröccs, a spritzer of wine and soda, here served in strangely varying measures, each with a different nickname..

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BARS & NIGHTLIFE

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

Neked Csak Dezső

7 BEST CRAFT-BEER BARS 8A BEER BROTHERS Opened at Astoria in early 2018, BB is run by Norbert and Zsolt Csonka, veterans of the Balaton scene. A dozen smallbatch tap beers are rotated on a regular basis. District V. Kossuth Lajos utca 20. facebook.com/beerbrothersbudapest 8B ÉLESZTŐ Opened in 2013, Élesztő (‘Yeast’) is part of Élesztőház, the Yeast House, with a ruin café, grill eatery, brew school and hostel. The bar offers 21 craft beers on tap. District IX. Tűzoltó utca 22. elesztohaz.hu 8C HOPAHOLIC ‘In Hops We Trust’ is the motto of evening-only Hopholic, a beer hostelry in Budapest’s busy bar quarter. Small-batch brews are the focus, the venue run by beer aficionados. District VII. Akácfa utca 38. facebook.com/hopaholicpub 8D JÓNÁS In the large multiuse Bálna building towards Petőfi Bridge on the Pest side, Jónás is a craft-beer bar with 8 brews on tap and more by the bottle, including Arany Jónás. District IX. Bálna, Fővám tér 11-12. balnabudapest.hu 8E KRAK’N TOWN Under the subheading ‘Steampunk Gastronomy’, Krak’n Town showcases its own English-style IPA and Czech-type pilsner along with domestic Krampusz and Mad Scientist brews.

District VIII. József körút 31A. krakntown.com 8F NEKED CSAK DEZSŐ Now at bigger, more prominent premises, this cult brewpub takes its name from once banned film A Tanú.

Some 32 taps line the counter, dispensing mainly Magyar beers.

District VIII. Rákóczi út 29. facebook.com/nekedcsakdezso 8G LABOR Tucked in an alcove of the Szimpla Kert ruin bar, Labor is a lab-themed outlet for local craft brewers Mad Scientist, creators of Liquid Cocaine, Mango Bay and Tokyo Lemonade. District VII. Szimpla Kert, Kazinczy utca 14. facebook.com/laborkraftbeerbar

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

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St. Stephen’s Day

Budapest is a city of festivals, whether it’s the week-long Sziget, one of the biggest music events in Europe, or four days of wine drinking at Buda Castle.

Kids take over the Sziget site in June for Children’s Island, while July sees the Formula 1 circus hit town.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

ndpierre is a Frontman for VHK, Attila Gra was the closing festival veteran whose band years ago. act of the inaugural Sziget 25

A t ti Grandp la

ierre

festivals, including the WLB: VHK have played many memories? best r first Sziget. What are you aordinary experience.

AG: Each VHK concert is an extr of Hungary’s biggest one e In 1993, even though we wer rs gave us a 6pm nize orga et bands, the first-time Szig t crazy. We did wen ds san slot. We started up and thou e. Rampage. stag the left our allotted 30 minutes then , filmmaker 1981 In n. dow gs It took an hour to calm thin at MAFILM for underground Gábor Bódy set up a festival bell from the GDR and acts. A friend brought a huge it. Our guitarist had a ging swung over the stage ban ywhere. The video ever it bowl of paste and splashed . At SZIN Fesztivál any Germ t made us cult heroes in Wes hit the speakers and did in Szeged, I ran to the stage, vered in surgery. I think reco I the gig covered in blood.

Iggy Pop or Jello Biafra. that’s why we’re compared to e info See vhk.mediastorm.hu for mor

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Food Truck Show Budapest

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

GOURMET FESTIVAL Hungary’s top-tier restaurants and star chefs from nearby countries set up at Buda’s Millenáris Park to serve creative dishes, fine desserts and aromatic wines. May 17-20. District II. Kis Rókus utca 16-20. gourmetfesztival.hu DOWNTOWN BEER FESTIVAL Premium Hungarian suds, small-batch craft beers and top international brews entice a drinking crowd to knock them back at a central Budapest location. Free admission.

June 6-10. District V. Szabadság tér. sorfesztival.hu

5 BEST GASTRO FESTIVALS FOOD TRUCK SHOW BUDAPEST Mobile purveyors of street food roll into the Kincsem Park racecourse to treat a ravenous crowd to juicy burgers, zesty barbecue treats and innovative snacks.

May 4-6. District X. Albertirsai út 2-4. facebook.com/foodtruckshowhungary ROSALIA – ROSÉ AND CHAMPAGNE FESTIVAL Linger around the sprawling City Park over a weekend in May for refreshing rosé wines and fizzy champagnes while live music jazzes things up. May 11-13. District XIV. Városliget. rosalia.hu 128

Gourmet Festival

BUDAPEST WINE FESTIVAL Tour Hungary’s wine regions, sampling excellent varieties from an impressive assortment of labels, all within scenic Buda Castle. This year’s guest wine country is Chile.

Sept 6-9. District I. Szent György tér 2. aborfesztival.hu

Hungarian wine cultivation is as old as the Romans, who first planted vines here. Focused on mass production until 1989, the domestic wine industry is now flourishing. While red Bull’s Blood from Eger and sweet Tokaji remain recognizable varieties, whites from the volcanic soils of Badacsony merit further investigation.

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I Bike Budapest

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

3 MOST COLORFUL FESTIVALS BELFESZT The Downtown Festival is a free late-spring jamboree that turns central Szabadság tér, Erzsébet tér and Zrínyi utca into venues for outdoor live shows. Late May-early June. facebook.com/belfeszt KOLORÁDÓ This amazingly chilled-out alfresco bash is held on a wide-open meadow amid the Buda Hills, where local bands and global underground greats play under starry skies.

June 13-16. facebook.com/koloradofesztival

Sziget

SZIGET This world-famous music festival is the highlight of summer, big names drawing massive crowds to Óbuda Island. For 2018, acts include Arctic Monkeys, Dua Lipa and Gorillaz. Aug 8-15. szigetfestival.com/en

3 BEST SPORTS EVENTS I BIKE BUDAPEST From 3pm at the Tabán in Buda, 10,000 cyclists ride through the city’s main streets and bridges otherwise closed off to other traffic. The event brings urban cycling into focus.

April 22. www.facebook.com/ibikebudapest RED BULL AIR RACE The most picturesque and spectacular of the 8-destination global Red Bull Air Race, Budapest sees crowds gather on the Danube bank and pilots zoom under Chain Bridge.

June 23-24. airrace.redbull.com HUNGARIAN GRAND PRIX Just outside Budapest, the Hungaroring at Mogyoród has staged Formula 1 in the searing heat of summer since 1986. Drivers must complete 70 laps of the 4.38km circuit.

July 29. Mogyoród. hungaroring.hu/en/events 130

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SZIGET FESTIVAL Launched 25 years ago, Sziget has changed the dynamic of summer in Budapest. No longer is Hungary’s capital a bizarre backwater where only brave backpackers venture, but flooded with foreign visitors. The reason,

partly, is Sziget. Inaugurated in 1993, this week-long music festival was created to revive the community spirit of summer camps and of the underground music scene that had grown out of the Socialist stranglehold on youth culture. Each had withered after the change of system in 1989. Naming the festival after its island (‘sziget’) location, a forgotten stretch of boat workshops north of town, the organizers hit on a winning concept.

Big names were soon booked. Boat transport, games, film and sport were introduced. Today, Sziget is a yearround industry, all geared towards one week in August, attracting nearly half a million visitors. szigetfestival.com/en

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Budapest100 (Photo: Balázs Danyi)

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

3 BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY EVENTS CHILDREN’S ISLAND An offshoot of Sziget, Children’s Island comprises four weekends of free games, music, shows and activities on the same festival site of Hajógyári-sziget through June. June 2-24. District III. Hajógyári-sziget. gyereksziget.hu ST. STEPHEN’S DAY The national celebration of St. Stephen’s Day on August 20th starts with a flag-raising at Parliament and ends with fireworks over the Danube – all in honor of Hungary’s first king.

Aug 20. Various locations

Children’s Island

NEMZETI VÁGTA Usually held over a weekend in mid-September, the National Gallop showcases Hungarian horsemanship in a colorful event that takes over Heroes’ Square – carried out in full costume.

Sept. District XIV. Hősök tere. en.vagta.hu

3 BEST CULTURAL FESTIVALS BUDAPEST100 The 2018 edition of this urban festival unveils lesserknown details of constructions found on and around Budapest’s squares, with free tours offered inside buildings. May 5-6. Various locations. budapest100.hu BUDAPEST SUMMER FESTIVAL From The Great Gatsby ballet show to a Jeff Mills DJ session, diverse acts liven up summer on Margaret Island and Városmajor for this festival’s 80th anniversary. June-Aug. Various locations. szabadter.hu NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS Most of Budapest’s exhibition venues welcome visitors past midnight for special cultural activities.

One wristband covers all venues, and special transport is laid on.

June 23. Various locations. muzej.hu

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AROUND BUDAPEST Day trips from Budapest include key spots on the Danube Bend, Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom, along with Vác opposite, reached by boat, bus, train or HÉV suburban rail.

Also served by HÉV are historic Gödöllő and its Habsburg palace.

West of town, Etyek is a pretty village of winemakers.

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

AnRengoas

Palmetta De sign Galér ia Run by husband-and-wife cre atives, this Szentendre gallery covers a wide range of modern design. Beside souven irs, it houses occasional exhibitions, bringin g top-quality domestic talent to the fore. It’s an exciting place to be around – and also the couple’s home.

WLB: How much have you bee n inspired by the Danube Bend, and is this reflected in your creations?

IstRvegáosn

PD: We have been living in Szen tendre since 1973 but even after so many years, and kno wing the town from top to bottom, we can still find part icular details. Whenever we can, we wander round the area, and soon realize that over the centuries, the castles, monaste ries and wonderful churches have not been put here by cha nce. The Danube Bend does not appear directly as a mot if in our creations, because art has a wider context – but each of our artistic careers would have developed differently with out this sense of place.

See palmettadesign.hu for mor e info.

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AROUND BUDAPEST MAP

VÁC CATHEDRAL

VISEGRÁD CASTLE

TRANSPORT FROM BUDAPEST

MAHART Passnave boats go from Vigadó tér to Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom. mahartpassnave.hu

VÁC

ESZTERGOM

HÉV suburban trains go from Batthyány tér and Margit-híd to Szentendre, and from Örs vezér tere to Gödöllő. bkk.hu

VISEGRÁD

ESZTERGOM BASILICA SZENTENDRE SZENTENDRE GALLERIES

MÁV trains go from Nyugati station to Vác and Esztergom. mavcsoport.hu Volánbusz buses go from Kelenföld station to Etyek. volanbusz.hu

GÖDÖLLŐ

BUDAPEST

ETYEK ETYEK VINEYARDS

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GÖDÖLLŐ PALACE

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Esztergom Basilica

AROUND BUDAPEST

SZENTENDRE’S SERBIAN CHURCHES Serbs fleeing the Ottomans from the late 1600s settled in Szentendre, building beautiful Orthodox churches such as focal Blagoveštenska and equally central Belgrade Cathedral.

Szentendre/Fő tér & Alkotmány utca VÁC CATHEDRAL This imposing Baroque landmark stands on the site of the original church from the 11th century. French architect Isidore Canevale created the current structure in the 1700s. Vác/Konstantin tér 7. vaci.szekesegyhaz.hu VISEGRÁD CITADEL Grand and fortified in medieval times, this former royal residence was a ruin when excavations began in 1934. Now open to the public, it is partly reconstructed, its panoramic view still unparalleled. visegrad.hu/-95

ESZTERGOM BASILICA Hungary’s largest church is a stately 19thcentury rebuild of the cathedral where the nation’s first king, Stephen I, is thought to have been crowned, on Christmas Day, 1000.

Esztergom/Szent István tér 1. bazilika-esztergom.hu

Szentendre

7 FINEST HISTORIC SIGHTS

ESZTERGOM CASTLE The remains of Esztergom Castle, the royal seat until the Mongol siege of 1241, were restored from the 1930s on, including the palace chapel and its exquisite frescoes. Esztergom/Szent István tér 1. varmegom.hu/wp GÖDÖLLŐ PALACE In landscaped grounds, Gödöllő was the summer residence of Emperor Franz Josef and his revered Hungarophile wife Sisi. Since restored, it’s now a historic attraction open to the public.

Gödöllő. kiralyikastely.hu SOLOMON’S TOWER Integral to Visegrád’s Lower Castle, Solomon’s Tower was built in the 1200s to observe movement on the Danube.

It now houses Gothic fountains and a museum of medieval history.

Visegrád/Salamontorony utca. visegradmuzeum.hu 142

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Szigetspicc

AROUND BUDAPEST

Kacsakő Bisztró

AROUND BUDAPEST

SZIGETSPICC At the northern tip of Szentendrei Island by Kisoroszi, a child-friendly stretch of beach attracts campers, canoeists and carnivores, barbecues and a single bar providing sustenance. Kisoroszi Szigetcsúcs

5 BEST WATERFRONT SPOTS KACSAKŐ BISZTRÓ Lapped by the Danube, this bucolic getaway close to the bustle of Szentendre offers barbecued dishes, deckchairs on a sandy shore and live acts. Open from late April. Szentendre/Duna korzó 21. koczangabor.wixsite.com/kacsakobisztro

PILISMARÓTI ÖBÖL The large bay near Pilismarót by the Danube lends itself to tranquil relaxation. Swimmers and fishermen enjoy the clean waters, while camping families set up barbecues alongside. Pilismarót/Dunapart 144

The hourly car ferry between Nagymaros and Visegrád is only a short hop but wonderfully dramatic, with a medieval citadel on one side, and the wooded slopes leading to the Börzsöny Hills on the other. Services run until 7.45pm from Visegrád and 8pm from Nagymaros – atlantisclubkft.hu has details.

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Verőcei strand

NAGYMAROSI STRAND Clean water and a long beach have made this a popular riverfront spot for generations. Grilled fish, ice cream and a play area all feature, along with a grand view of Visegrád.

Nagymaros/Hunyadi sétány

VERŐCEI STRAND With its grassy bank, volleyball court, cabin rental and buffets, the beach at Verőce provides the perfect family getaway, free admission and shaded spots another plus. Verőce/off Árpád út

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AROUND BUDAPEST

Prímás Pince

PATAK VENDÉGLŐ Set by the Királyrét narrow-gauge train, the Patak Vendéglő creates quality Hungarian cuisine with ingredients prepared in-house. Seasonal choices change every fortnight.

Kismaros/Szokolyai út 5. patakvendeglo.hu PRÍMÁS PINCE Invariably geared to tourists, given the setting in the cellar of Esztergom’s Basilica, Prímás Pince still goes for quality in its weekly changing menu and wine selection.

Esztergom/Szent István tér 4. primaspince.hu RÓKUSFALVY FOGADÓ Named after the owner who opened it in 2002, this Etyek institution provides quality game, poultry and wines from its own estate. A weekly menu, and lodgings, also available.

Etyek/Alcsúti út 4. rokusfalvyfogado.hu

DALMÁT SZAMÁR BISZTRÓ A stroll up Szamárhegy from Szentendre’s Fő tér, this bistro is a great daytime spot for lighter dishes enjoyed on a bright terrace. Sunset is an ideal time to visit. Szentendre/Bartók Béla utca 8. facebook.com/dalmatszamar

Prímás Pince

7 BEST RESTAURANTS

ERZSÉBET KIRÁLYNÉ ÉTTEREM Ideally located to provide sustenance after a visit to nearby Gödöllő Palace, the Queen Elizabeth is unsurprisingly regal in style, boar, venison and salmon on the menu.

Gödöllő/Dózsa György út 2. erzsebetkiralyneetterem.hu MJAM This modern restaurant in the heart of Szentendre deals in quality ethnic cuisine, mainly but not exclusively from the Caribbean, such as seafood curries and classic Thai soups. Szentendre/Városház tér 2. facebook.com/Mjam NATURA HILL Sustainability underscores Natura Hill, a hotel/ restaurant with a commanding view over the Danube. Locally sourced, organic ingredients go into Endre Ruga’s creative cuisine.

Zebegény/Szarvas utca 76. naturahill.hu 146

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AROUND BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

7 BEST TOURS

BIKE RIDE BETWEEN GÖD AND SZOB A jaunt of 40km, this relatively smooth ride up the east bank of the Danube takes in woods and river views, with the options of a boat crossing to Visegrád or a dip at Nagymarosi Strand.

CANOE TOUR FROM KISMAROS TO ZEBEGÉNY This popular half-day route of 14km takes canoeists past uninhabited islands, panoramic hills and, halfway along, the convenient pit stop of Nagymaros and its friedfish buffet.

DANUBE BOAT RIDE From April to September, a Mahart Passnave boat sets off from Vigadó tér in downtown Budapest bound for Esztergom, a tranquil journey of 5 hours plus, via Szentendre and Visegrád. mahartpassnave.hu KIRÁLYRÉT FOREST TRAIN Between Kismaros and Királyrét, this narrow-gauge heritage rail cuts through bucolic greenery on its half-hour journey from the Danube to the edge of the Börzsöny hills. kisvasut-kiralyret.hu NAGY HIDEG-HEGY Deep in the Börzsöny hills, Nagy Hideg-hegy stands 864 meters tall, hence its name, ‘Big Cold Hill’. Attracting hikers yearround, it has a tourist lodging and telescope at the top. nagyhideghegy.hu RÁM SZAKADÉK Work on the shaded trails through this gorge near Dömös now allows less experienced hikers to appreciate its spectacular geological formations. No cooler breeze can be found in summer.

SKANZEN TOURS The huge open-air museum near Szentendre is divided into areas, each with elements of folk culture. To best understand this peasant heritage, take one of the tours on offer, timings vary.

Szentendre/Sztaravodai út. hu-hu.facebook.com/SKANZEN.HU

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AROUND BUDAPEST

Prédikálószék

AROUND BUDAPEST

3 BEST FESTIVALS ETYEK SUMMER PICNIC Seasonal picnics at the wine-producing community of Etyek attract many oenophiles, who gather in the cellars of Öreghegy and along the Gastro Promenade. June. etyekipiknik.hu SZENTENDRE ÉJJEL-NAPPAL NYITVA Szentendre bids farewell to summer with the ‘Open Day & Night’ weekend of outdoor concerts, workshops, films, shows and exhibitions. Houses and courtyards are open to the public. Aug 24-26. szentendreprogram.hu

Szentendre Éjjel-Nappal Nyitva

VISEGRÁDI NEMZETKÖZI PALOTAJÁTÉKOK In honor of the congress here in 1335, the Visegrád International Palace Games is a large costumed medieval event, with displays of horsemanship and knightly battles.

July 13-15. palotajatekok.hu

3 BEST PANORAMIC DANUBE VIEWS PRÉDIKÁLÓSZÉK This 12-meter-tall lookout tower stands atop the hill of the same name, at 639 meters the third-highest peak of the Visegrád range. From here, views of the Danube Bend are simply majestic. dobogokokirandulas.hu/Predikaloszek VERŐCE Remnants of a Roman watchtower can still be found at Verőce, evidence of its outstanding location as a vantage point on the east bank of the Danube. The outstanding views remain as ever. veroce.hu VISEGRÁD CITADEL Completely buried before excavations began in the 1900s, the Citadel is of limited architectural interest to the layman but its views of the Danube Bend cannot be matched. visegrad.hu/-93

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

BUDAPEST - BRATISLAVA - PRAGUE - WARSAW Cooperation between the so-called Visegrád countries is usually covered in political and economic news reports.

Yet Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Slovakia draw on the most diverse cultural heritage in the region, based on common values. The tourist attractions in this area of Europe are also a vital element and presented across the following pages.As you may see, there is plenty to take in. While focusing on three glittering capitals and several rural locations, we also go on a culinary tour of these diverse Visegrád countries.

PRAGUE

WARSAW

BRATISLAVA

BUDAPEST

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

Bratislava Castle

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

BRATISLAVA With half a million inhabitants, Bratislava is home to fewer people than the other V4 capitals but it is still rich in attractions. You can become familiar with the cultural history of Central Europe by strolling around its buildings.

BLUE CHURCH One of the most remarkable works by Hungarian Art Nouveau architect Ödön Lechner is named after the dominant color later used for its exterior, glazed roof and mosaics.

BRATISLAVA CASTLE Towering atop a rocky hill overlooking the Danube, this colossal rectangular construction once housed the Holy Crown of Hungary but now hosts exhibitions and political summits.

GRASSALKOVICH PALACE Seat of the Slovak president, this Baroque landmark where Haydn premiered many of his works is now best known for its French garden open as a place of public recreation.

MICHAEL’S GATE AND TOWER This Old Town landmark was built in 1300, making it one of the most historic buildings in Bratislava. The tower is open for visitors to climb, the gateway busy with pedestrians.

PRIMATE’S PALACE The Hall of Mirrors within this pale-pink building witnessed the signing of the Treaty of Pressburg between Napoleon and Francis II in 1805. Today it houses the mayoral office.

SNP BRIDGE Featuring a flying saucer structure hovering over the Danube and housing a panoramic restaurant and observation deck, this cable-stay bridge links the Old Town with Petržalka.

ZICHY PALACE Found in the historic center of Bratislava, this neoClassical edifice features a pleasant courtyard, a prime location for hosting wedding ceremonies and cultural festivals.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

Charles Bridge

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

ORLOJ The Old Town’s famed astronomical clock, built in 1410, has been briefly stopped for repairs. Fear not, it should be back operating for all to see from mid-summer.

POWDER TOWER This Gothic tower in Prague Old Town was formerly used for the storage of gunpowder. Today this medieval landmark is the last standing gate of the original city wall. ŽIŽKOV TV TOWER Climb this 93-meter-high landmark for a picturesque panorama and then reward yourself with a pint at one of the many bars in the working-class district of Žižkov.

ZLATÁ ULIČKA First named after the goldsmiths who lived here, this is the street where Franz Kafka wrote during World War I. Many buildings were later repainted in striking colors.

PRAGUE The main attraction of the Czech capital remains its beer culture, and while the waiters will still keep the pivo flowing until you ask them to stop, there’s plenty more to see in this historic city.

CHARLES BRIDGE This statue-lined pedestrian bridge is the city’s most famous attraction. As you weave your way through the selfietaking crowds, the bridge connects you to and from the Old Town.

DANCING HOUSE This famous example of contemporary architecture was created to resemble Fred and Ginger in full flow, on the riverside site of a building destroyed by Allied bombing.

HRADČANY Hilltop Hradčany, topped with the enormous Prague Castle complex, provides sweeping vistas over the city. Rising above it all, St. Vitus Cathedral is a major landmark.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

WARSAW The diversity of Poland’s capital derives from its history.

The city was under Swedish and Russian occupation before being destroyed during World War II. It has since been completely rebuilt and brought back to life.

FRAME HOUSE One of Warsaw’s more offbeat attractions, Frame House deals with art in its many guises, paintings, posters, drawings and prints, in a suitably unusual building west of town. ŁAZIENKI PARK By the city center lies one of Europe's most beautiful parks, a major landmark on the royal route. It houses the summer palace of 18th-century Polish king Stanisław II August.

MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF POLISH JEWS Opened in 2013, this award-winning museum tells the story of Polish Jewry, within a striking contemporary building designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki.

NEON MUSEUM Warsaw’s classic neon signage from the Socialist era has been gathered and placed in this one industrial setting, a former factory complex. Much is illuminated after sunset.

OLD TOWN Warsaw’s main sights are found in and around the Old Town. From the Royal Palace, you can walk to the Holy Cross Church, where the heart of Polish composer Chopin is kept.

PALACE OF SCIENCE & CULTURE This Stalinist wedding cake, Poland’s tallest building, dominates Warsaw city center. A swift lift zooms up to the 30th floor, where an observation terrace offers superb views.

WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM This imaginative museum tells the story of the city’s brave resistance to the Nazi occupation, displaying objects such as a replica of a US B-24 Liberator bomber used in Allied airdrops.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

THE VISEGRÁD COUNTRIES EXCEL AT GASTRONOMY

SLOVAKIA recommends a hearty venison terrine with cottage-cheese crackling, rescue pearls, walnut pesto and salad as a cold dish.

– THE VISEGRÁD MENU

The Visegrád Countries honor the gastronomic heritage of the region with a menu created from the specialties of the four member countries. Restaurants that join this initiative are required to use characteristic ingredients from these four territories, but they are free to concoct dishes with a modern twist.

A standard Visegrád menu – one that you can try making at home from recipes found on the V4 website (v4kozosen.hu) – features the following:

HUNGARY is represented by a modernized traditional dish.

They shake up goulash soup with citrus flavors and gremolata spices.

The chefs of the CZECH REPUBLIC offer a filling main course: melt-in-the-mouth pork roast in beer sauce, cabbage variations and dumplings.

POLAND suggests duck meat for mains with sweet potato chips, celery root pûrée, smoked cottage-cheese dumplings, fondant potatoes and broad beans.

The menu is complete with the popular and palatable Hungarian treat, somlói galuska, covered in a chocolate glaze.

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THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

Historic Center of Kraków

THE VISEGRÁD FOUR

PILGRIMAGE CHURCH OF ST. JOHN OF NEPOMUK AT ZELENÁ HORA South-east of Prague, this 18th-century landmark was fashioned in a star shape by Jan Blažej Santini Aichel, founder of a style featuring attributes of neo-Gothic and Baroque.

SPIŠ CASTLE These remains in eastern Slovakia hint at a former castle complex of remarkable size. The current 12th-century fortification presents an exhibition of weaponry and torture devices.

BEYOND THE CAPITALS – 6 WORLD HERITAGE SITES IN THE VISEGRÁD COUNTRIES

Zelená Hora

VLKOLÍNEC Located in central Slovakia, this remarkably intact settlement features traditional log houses that preserve the architectural heritage typical of mountain communities.

HISTORIC CENTER OF KRAKÓW The cultural and ecclesiastic capital of Poland is where you’ll find Europe’s largest market square, centerpieced by the Cloth Hall and contemporary interactive City Museum.

HISTORIC CENTER OF TELČ Featuring grand loggia façades, well preserved Renaissance and Baroque houses provide photogenic beauty around the main square of Telč, deep in southern Moravia.

HISTORIC SILVER MINE IN TARNOWSKIE GÓRY This former mine in southern Poland has been transformed into a multimedia museum site, where visitors can experience real conditions and take boat rides below ground.

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