Insider Autumn/Winter 2017

Produced by the local journalists who create WeLoveBudapest.com, the Insider guide provides up-to-date suggestions about what to see and do in Hungary’s capital, from indoor destinations for rainy days to thermal baths with steamy pools to late-night street-food spots. Explore Budapest with us, and soon you’ll be an insider, too!

WELOVEBUDAPEST PRESENTS INSIDER

DISCOVER BUDAPEST WITH INSIDER INFO

AUTUMN / WINTER 2017

TOC

WELLNESS (56-65)

SIGHTSEEING (6-19) 10 sights you must see if spending 72 hours in BP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Explainer – Millennium underground . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 3 sights you must see if spending 24 hours in BP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 3 monumental spots for sporty sightseeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 3 Hungarian national treasures to behold in BP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 One-question interview – Szilvia Magdics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 10 indoor destinations for rainy or snowy days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

DINING (20-41) 10 restaurants for truly modern Magyar meals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 3 street-food spots for massive portions of meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 3 hotspots for mouthwatering meat-free meals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Explainer – Chimney cake . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 3 places for creative new-wave chimney-cake delights . . . . . . . . . 30 3 classic BP coffeehouses full of sweet nostalgia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 One-question interview – Mátyás Szik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 3 teahouses with authentic Asian style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 3 eateries serving gourmet goulash soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

CULTURE (42-55) 10 free galleries for viewing modern Magyar art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 One-question interview – Krisztián Bódis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 3 extraordinary exhibits for seeing world-class art . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 3 major museums housed within historic landmarks . . . . . . . . . . 49 3 freshly painted murals found around downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 3 venues for viewing modern dance shows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 3 museums that are genuinely fun to visit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 3 venues for hearing up-and-coming Magyar musicians . . . . . . . 54 TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

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3 thermal baths with steamy outdoor pools open all year....... 58 Explainer – Budapest’s thermal baths ............................... 60 3 English-friendly gyms that offer day passes ....................... 62 3 soothing salt chambers to boost your breathing ................. 63 3 places for easy autumn hiking ........................................ 64

SHOPPING (66-77) 10 design hotspots for getting Hungarian goods ..................68 One-question interview – Dóri Tomcsányi .......................... 70 3 BP businesses that double as mini-museums ................... 72 3 Christmas fairs held in landmark locations ....................... 74 3 historic market halls for shopping and feasting ................. 76

NIGHTLIFE (78-93) 10 clubs where good grooves make you move .................... 80 3 cocktail bars that create custom concoctions ................... 82 Explainer – Pálinka ........................................................ 84 10 venues for live music of varied genres ............................ 86 3 ruin pubs that are welcoming in wintertime ...................... 88 3 street-food spots open late into the night ........................ 90 3 distinctive BP sites hosting New Year’s Eve parties .............. 93

PRACTICAL INFO (94-103) 10 tips to enjoy Budapest in cold-weather months ............. 96 3 coworking spaces that are stations for innovation ............. 98 3 city-center places for storing luggage with ease ............... 99 3 reasons to visit Lake Balaton in fall or winter .................. 100 3 ways We Love Budapest helps you love Budapest ........... 102 A/W—2017

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

INTRODUCTION

When the air is crisp and days are short, a warm spirit prevails across Budapest – bright yellow trams trundle along riverfront tracks as autumn leaves flutter in their wake, bundled strollers stop to buy steaming roasted chestnuts from top-hatted vendors on Andrássy Avenue, and endless strings of bulbs sparkle in the trees above fascinating Christmas fairs. All of these sights and many more combine to create a colorful tapestry of experience for Budapest visitors – and with our Insider guide, we provide local knowledge to make your time here as vibrant as possible, while offering some useful tips along the way. Explore Budapest with us, and soon you’ll be an insider, too.

Team We Love Budapest

SIGHTSEEING

Along with Budapest’s breathtaking assortment of outdoor landmarks, innumerable indoor attractions await discovery all year long, from centuries-old Hungarian national treasures to an incredible complex of caves carved over eons by bubbling thermal waters to Europe’s most historic metro line.

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1D CIT Y PARK AND HEROES’ SQUARE As one of Europe’s oldest public parks, this sprawling green space hosted Hungary’s 1896 Millennial Celebrations, and is home to historic landmarks like the Budapest Zoo, Széchenyi Bath, and Vajdahunyad Castle.

1E GREAT MARKET HALL This cavernous bazaar continually proffers fresh produce for urban dwellers since the late 1800s, found beneath an elaborately patterned roof of colorful Zsolnay tiles. Budapest 1093, Vámház körút 1-3; piaconline.hu

CHAIN BRIDGE

10 SIGHTS YOU MUST SEE IF SPENDING 72 HOURS IN BP

1F GREAT SYNAGOGUE Serving as the gateway to Budapest’s District VII, Europe’s biggest Jewish temple was built in 1859 in a Moorish style, and it houses the Hungarian Jewish Museum.

Budapest 1077, Dohány utca 2; dohany-zsinagoga.hu

1A CASTLE DISTRICT Explore an assortment of beautiful landmarks lining Buda’s centuries-old cobblestoned lanes on this historic plateau, like the Royal Palace, Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias Church, and the Vienna Gate archway.

1H PARLIAMENT This neo-Gothic government seat is impressive inside out – take a tour of the interior to admire the building’s gorgeous stained-glass windows. Budapest 1055, Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3; latogatokozpont.parlament.hu

1B CHAIN BRIDGE This venerable span connecting Buda and Pest was originally completed in 1849, and although it will be closed for extensive renovations, it still inspires awe as the city’s statuesque centerpiece.

1I ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA This huge cathedral in the heart of downtown Pest offers stunning scenery beneath its 96-meter-tall dome, along with regular religious services and organ concerts. Budapest 1051, Szent István tér 1; en.bazilika.biz

1C CITADEL To enjoy the most panoramic views over Hungary’s capital, visit this monumental fortress atop Gellért Hill, where Budapest’s iconic Liberation Monument towers over the city skyline. Budapest 1118, Citadella sétány 1

1J VÁRKERT BA ZA AR After decades of neglect, this lovely neo-Renaissance building complex beneath the Royal Palace is now freshly renewed to house exhibition spaces, eateries, and an escalator leading up to the Castle District.

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1G HUNGARIAN STATE OPERA Although the interior of this venerated venue is now under renovation, the building’s stunning façade is also an must-see sight laden with statues of operatic luminaries. Budapest 1061, Andrássy út 22; opera.hu

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MILLENNIUM UNDERGROUND

Running beneath many of Budapest’s major monuments for over a century, Continental Europe’s very first subway plays a vital role in the city’s history and present-day life. Built for the 1896 Millennial Jubilee (a celebration to commemorate the thousandth anniversary of the Magyars’ arrival in Hungary), the iconic Metro 1 cars carried passengers from downtown Pest to the main festivities in City Park – even including Austrian Emperor and King of Hungary Franz Joseph on the inaugural ride. Today, taking the “yellow line” is a must-do activity in the Magyar metropolis, whether for its historical appeal or just to get around the city – the subway spans downtown Pest’s Vörösmarty Square and its northeastern terminus at Mexikói Road, while gliding under Andrássy Avenue and stopping at monumental locations including the Hungarian State Opera House, Heroes’ Square, and Széchenyi Bath.

3 SIGHTS YOU MUST SEE IF SPENDING 24 HOURS IN BP 2A CASTLE DISTRICT This beautiful butte provides panoramic views across Budapest, and is home to many postcard-superstar sights, like the fairy-tale Fishermen’s Bastion, the stately Royal Palace, and the colorful Matthias Church.

2B GREAT MARKET HALL Beyond providing a gigantic indoor display of all Hungarian foodstuffs, the massive market offers many Magyar-made folk-art treasures and fun souvenirs upstairs. Budapest 1093, Vámház körút 1-3; piaconline.hu 2C PARLIAMENT A recently established visitor’s center at this gigantic palace of Hungarian governance includes a wideranging display of the building’s history. Budapest 1055, Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3; latogatokozpont.parlament.hu CASTLE DISTRICT

CITY PARK ICE RINK

3 MONUMENTAL SPOTS FOR SPORTY SIGHTSEEING 3A CIT Y PARK ICE RINK Glide in a grand setting by the fairytale Vajdahunyad Castle and Heroes’ Square at one of Europe’s most beautiful artificial ice rinks, situated in City Park.

Budapest 1146, Olof Palme sétány 5; mujegpalya.hu 3B ELIZABETH LOOKOUT TOWER Reach the city’s highest point by taking bus 291 from Nyugati Railway Station to the chairlift that operates all year long, whisking hikers up the Buda Hills. Budapest 1121, Zugligeti út 97 (chairlift base station) 3C MARGARET ISLAND RUNNING TRACK Embraced by the Danube, Budapest’s parkland isle is circled by a rubberized running track that is perfect for counting kilometers while admiring the riverfront panorama. Budapest 1138, Margitsziget

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H O LY C R O W N

3 HUNGARIAN NATIONAL TREASURES TO BEHOLD IN BP 4A HOLY CROWN OF HUNGARY Over 50 Magyar kings were coronated with this majestic relic believed to confer divine power; today it is kept in the centerpiece display of Hungary’s Parliament house. Budapest 1055, Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3; latogatokozpont.parlament.hu 4B HOLY RIGHT HAND OF ST. STEPHEN The millenniumold mummified right hand of Hungary’s founding king has a fascinating history and an imposing appearance within its ornate reliquary at the Basilica. Budapest 1051, Szent István tér 1; en.bazilika.biz 4C CORONATION MANTLE Woven with Byzantine silk and embroidered with gold thread, Magyar monarchs wore this regal cloak since AD 1031; now it is a highlight of the Hungarian National Museum. Budapest 1088, Múzeum körüt 14-16; mnm.hu

H O LY R I G H T H A N D

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szilvia magdics Hotel Budapest provides The truly grand Corinthia e for 121 years now, and her outstanding hospitality – cs gdi Ma lvia Szi ge concier for the past half decade, fs d’Or Hungary – enjoys a proud member of Les Cle ied city attractions. advising guests about var visitors who want inary” landmarks? more than Budapest’s “ord

Q: What do you recommend to to see

, in a secret corner the world’s greatest of Gellért Hill, statues of ntly around an orb – there sile religious figures meet here. For an even better is a striking view of the city (“Libegő”) to the peak t panorama, take the chairlif Lookout Tower, th abe Eliz of János Hill and the ernatively, Budapest accessible year-round. Alt underneath its streets – has many caves to explore l and discover this natura put on comfortable shoes , Hill tle Cas w belo th phenomenon at the Labyrin or at Szemlő-hegyi Cave.

A: At the Garden of Philosophy

View corinthia.com/budape

st for more details.

5D GOZSDU COURT YARD District VII’s popular passage blends an eclectic mix of hangouts, and it’s buzzing day and night with urban dwellers lounging at the courtyard’s vibrant cafés, restaurants, and bars. Budapest 1075, Király utca 13; gozsduudvar.hu 5E HOSPITAL IN THE ROCK A dimly lit shelter beneath the Castle District evokes historic sensations within a fortified hospital established during World War II, featuring a museum with life-sized wax figures of patients. Budapest 1012, Lovas út 4/C; sziklakorhaz.eu

BÁLNA

10 INDOOR DESTINATIONS FOR RAINY OR SNOWY DAYS

5F MILLENNIUM UNDERGROUND MUSEUM In the underpass of Deák Ferenc Square next to the public-transport information counter, nostalgic wooden wagons are displayed on a century-old Metro 1 platform that is now eliminated from service. Budapest 1052, Deák Square metro station; bkv.hu

5A BÁLNA BUDAPEST Adding a twist to Pest’s waterfront scenery, a curvaceous whale-shaped construction is a relaxed refuge with its contemporary exhibition space and panoramic Danube-side hangouts. Budapest 1093, Fővám tér 11-12; balnabudapest.hu 5B CAVE CHURCH A rock-carved shrine lies within Gellért Hill, where a labyrinth of thermal-heated chambers houses a holy landmark that serves as a semi-hidden chapel for a local religious community. Budapest 1114, Szent Gellért rakpart 1; sziklatemplom.hu

5G PALACE OF ARTS Pest’s contemporary riverfront megavenue is a key destination for urban dwellers, where spectacular stage performances and modern art exhibitions offer a year-round cultural refuge. Budapest 1095, Komor Marcell utca 1; mupa.hu 5H PESTI VIGADÓ Besides boasting regular exhibitions, concerts, and theater shows, English-language guided tours take visitors around this 19th-century building that enhances downtown’s Danube Promenade. Budapest 1051, Vigadó tér 2; vigado.hu 5I ROYAL PALACE The Royal Palace contains a trio of sights – the Hungarian National Gallery, the National Széchényi Library, and the Budapest History Museum – that are all perfect for exploring on a rainy day. Budapest 1014, Szent György tér 2

Several good restaurants fill this District V gastronomy bazaar of eateries serving Magyar meals and international treats, while local vendors offer fresh produce on the ground floor. Budapest 1054, Hold utca 13; belvarospiac.hu

5J SZEMLŐ-HEGYI CAVE Hidden beneath the Buda Hills, “Budapest’s underground flower garden” welcomes visitors to casually discover a million-year-old subterranean attraction with floral-shaped stone formations. Budapest 1025, Pusztaszeri út 35; dunaipoly.hu

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5C DOWNTOWN MARKET

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SIGHTSEEING – 19

DINING

Budapest’s culinary scene continues to flourish as refined foodies flock to finedining restaurants that are modernizing classic Hungarian cuisine, or serving gourmet bowlfuls of goulash. Meanwhile, the city’s street-food scene is presenting many remarkable meals (both meat-free and meat-filled).

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10 RESTAURANTS FOR TRULY MODERN MAGYAR MEALS 1A BABEL Enjoy sophisticated Hungarian delicacies like pike perch or lamb neck served in four- and six-course tasting menus at this fine-dining hotspot close to Váci Street.

Budapest 1052, Piarista köz 2; babel-budapest.hu 1B BOCK BISTRO High-caliber Magyar feasts are prepared with bold creativity at this reliably satisfying urban eatery located within downtown’s five-star Corinthia Hotel Budapest.

Budapest 1073, Erzsébet körút 43-49; bockbisztropest.hu 1C BORKONYHA With a friendly spirit unusual for a Michelinstarred restaurant, this dining destination boasts an extraordinary selection of Hungarian wines to pair with each dish.

Budapest 1051, Sas utca 3; borkonyha.hu MACESZ BISTRO

1D BÖRZE Budapest’s newest grand café has a timeless ambience and a contemporary kitchen offering delicious Hungarian staples like meaty “Hortobágyi” pancakes.

Budapest 1051, Nádor utca 23; borzeetterem.hu 1E FÁMA The latest restaurant of everexperimental Hungarian chef Krisztián Huszár features amazing multi-course meals mixing locally sourced ingredients with exotic elements. Budapest 1013, Attila utca 10; famabudapest.hu 1F FRICSK A Combining contemporary Hungarian cuisine, professional service, and a playful spirit, this stylish hotspot is favored by local foodies for its excellent lunch specials.

Budapest 1073, Dob utca 56-58; fricska.eu 1G MACESZ BISTRO Refined flavors meet classic hospitality at this site for traditional Jewish meals fused with Hungarian cuisine, found at a buzzing corner near the Great Synagogue.

Budapest 1072, Dob utca 26; maceszbistro.hu 1H OLIMPIA An ever-changing selection of meals based on super-seasonal ingredients ensures that every time guests dine here, their experience will be dramatically different.

Budapest 1076, Alpár utca 5; alparutca5.hu 1I ONY X Located within Budapest’s historic Gerbeaud House on Vörösmarty Square, this Michelin-starred eatery specializes in 21st-century versions of customary Magyar dishes.

Budapest 1051, Vörösmarty tér 7-8; onyxrestaurant.hu 1J ST. ANDREA A highly esteemed Hungarian winery presents magnificent meals made with regional foodstuffs to pair with their libations in downtown Pest’s beautiful Eiffel Palace.

Budapest 1055, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 78; standreaborbar.hu

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MACESZ BISTRO is located in the heart of the Jewish district of Budapest. Visit us at DOB UTCA 26.

We are the so in Budapest. pork belly or it doesn’t Our signature

called meat heaven Taste beef ribs, Hungarian sausage, beat our team. is: MEAT-MEAT-MEAT

1075, Budapest, Dob utca 31.

3 STREET-FOOD SPOTS FOR MASSIVE PORTIONS OF MEAT 2A BPBARBQ Excellent meats, long smoking times, and tasteful technology create the conditions for the big flavor of the huge BBQ sandwiches at this hybrid hangout of District VII. Budapest 1072, Akácfa utca 24; bpbarbq.com 2B CUPÁKOS This new-wave butcher shop offers classic Magyar meals with a twist specifically for carnivores, including crispy cracklings, chunky pig knuckle, and crimson sausages.

Budapest 1074, Dob utca 31; cupakos.hu 2C MEAT & SAUCE Hearty handheld treats are drenched in piquant sauce in a bite-sized shop selling professionally prepared street-food treats, like the dipped paprika-chicken sandwich.

Budapest 1065, Nagymező utca 34; facebook.com/meatandsauce BPBARBQ

NEMSÜTI

3 HOTSPOTS FOR MOUTHWATERING MEAT-FREE MEALS 3A GREAT BISTRO Found steps away from Pest’s Arany János Street metro station, this downtown vegan haven offers a variety of animal-product-free meals, sandwiches, and sweets all day.

Budapest 1054, Bank utca 6; facebook.com/greatbistrobudapest 3B NAPFÉNYES The menu at this proper sit-down restaurant includes vegan versions of varied Magyar meals, like Hungarian bean goulash soup, stuffed cabbage, and Somlói sponge cake.

Budapest 1053, Ferenciek tere 2; napfenyesetterem.hu 3C NEMSÜTI Inspired by the cuisines of varied nations worldwide, daily-changing offers here include Mexican quesadillas, Indian biryani, and local lecsó, all made without meat.

Budapest 1137, Jászai Mari tér 4/B; facebook.com/nemsuti

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CHIMNEY CAKE

(KÜRTŐSKALÁCS)

A star attraction at wintertime festivals, this scrumptious Hungarian street-food specialty is available at almost all of Budapest’s Christmas fairs, where urban dwellers enjoy this traditional treat made of sweet yeast dough wrapped around a cylinder-shaped wooden cone before being baked over an open fire, and finally sprinkled with sugar, cinnamon, or ground walnut. However, chimney cake is experiencing a culinary revolution, as the pastry is now available yearround in diverse varieties and styles – some vendors fill them with ice cream, or create savory versions of them topped with piquant ingredients, like sausage cream and Hungarian “lecsó” (pepper stew). The possibilities to create new chimney-cake sensations seem endless, and at some Budapest eateries we can even customize our kürtőskalács by selecting a mix of fillings, such as candy-bar chunks, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream.

3 PLACES FOR CREATIVE NEWWAVE CHIMNEYCAKE DELIGHTS 4A HOPPÁCSK A Hungary’s cylindrical treat is served with a twist here, cut vertically in half and packed with savory or sweet toppings, like Bavarian sausage or chocolate sauce.

Budapest 1092, Ráday utca 33; facebook.com/hoppacska.kalacs 4B MOLNÁR’S KÜRTŐSK ALÁCS

The city’s most popular chimney-cake bakery has joined the kürtőskalács revolution, and now serves their classic confections filled with ice cream and sweet sauces. Budapest 1052, Váci utca 31; kurtoskalacs.com 4C STREET CAKES

At this sweet haven, chimney cake is made according to each customer’s individual cravings, as they can mix and match fillings like ice cream, candies, and fruits.

1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 61; facebook.com/strcakes

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NEW YORK CAFÉ

CENTRÁL CAFÉ

3 CLASSIC BP COFFEEHOUSES FULL OF SWEET NOSTALGIA 5A CENTRÁL CAFÉ This historic hangout for many great Hungarian writers celebrates its 130th anniversary this year, following a renovation blending classic style with modern flair.

Budapest 1053, Károlyi Mihály utca 9; centralkavehaz.hu 5B GERBEAUD Made with 159 years of experience, anything from this confectionery’s amazing assortment is bound to be delicious – from longtime favorites to their new-wave sweets.

Budapest 1051, Vörösmarty tér 7-8; gerbeaud.hu 5C NEW YORK CAFÉ Marble surfaces and crystal chandeliers create an aristocratic milieu at this classic coffeehouse, which is considered by many as the most beautiful café in the world.

Budapest 1073, Erzsébet körút 9-11; newyorkcafe.hu 32 – DINING

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MAtyas szik Beverage Manager As the Head Sommelier and Seasons Hotel Gresham r Fou ve lusi exc st’s of Budape k is a widely renowned Szi s tyá Palace, city native Má – he is a three-time expert on Hungarian wines and after competing ion, mp national sommelier cha eurs tournament held in the Chaîne des Rôtiss to determine the world’s ber in Budapest in Septem fourth place. best sommelier, he earned hes do you recommend

Q: What seasonal Hungarian dis ch Hungarian wines whi for autumn and winter, and m? the h go best wit

f-cheek goulash ser l, ona that is spicy but traditi d characteristic and mature is not too full-bodied but winery. ska Sau the from kos – like a 2012 Kékfran sic chestnut purée is For dessert, Hungary’s clas have it with a matured ld wou perfect for autumn; I 2003.

Tokaji Szamorodni, vintage

A: My suggestion would be a bee ved with a wine that

ng at the Gresham Palace, To find out more about dini budapest. om/ log onto fourseasons.c

Blind date

WITH THE CHEF & SOMMELIER Exclusively available in KOLLà ZS – Brasserie & Bar, restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest.

Blind Date is more than a dinner, it is a pure dining experience based on pairing local dishes with wines and spirits - search for the harmony of tastes!

Reservations: reservations@kollazs.hu or +36 1 268 54 08

3 EATERIES SERVING GOURMET GOULASH SOUP 7A BESTIA Steps away from St. Stephen’s Basilica, this Hungarian staple food is stylishly served in a small pot, while a touch of hot paprika makes the soup’s flavor complete.

Budapest 1051, Szent István tér 9-11; bestia.hu

MARUMOTO

3 TEAHOUSES WITH AUTHENTIC ASIAN STYLE 6A FLYING BIRD TEAHOUSE Located on bustling Kazinczy Street, this hippie haven invites guests for sedate moments of sipping heartwarming Asian decoctions at traditional Chinese tables.

Budapest 1075, Kazinczy utca 52; flyingbirdteahouse.hu

7B HUNYADI GASZTROMŰHELY & BBQ Shredded BBQ beef-neck pieces soak into a goulash fantasy at this Buda-side eatery – when devoured with some bread, this Magyar soup is a hearty main course here. Budapest 1024, Retek utca 12; hunyadigasztromuhely.hu 7C STAND25 BISTRO Within Budapest’s Downtown Market, goulash is glorious at this eatery of master Magyar foodsmith Tamás Széll, the current Bocuse d’Or Best European Chef prizewinner. Budapest 1054, Hold utca 13 (stall 25); stand25.hu S TA N D 2 5 B I S T R O

6B MARUMOTO One of Budapest’s most authentic Asian teahouses reflects elegant Japanese simplicity, while the drink assortment contains both traditional and reinterpreted tea types.

Budapest 1051, Hercegprímás utca 9; marumoto.eu 6C ZHAO ZHOU East meets West in perfect balance in Buda, where Zhao Zhou makes tasteful brews from ancient tea-tree leaves while proffering canisters of these treats for takeaway.

Budapest 1013, Lánchíd utca 5; zhaozhoutea.com 38 – DINING

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CULTURE

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Whether you seek world-class exhibitions of renowned artworks or oversized graffiti masterpieces spread across multistory walls, Budapest has plenty of cultural attractions to discover, including cutting-edge dance performances and up-and-coming Magyar musicians playing in historic theater halls.

10 FREE GALLERIES FOR VIEWING MODERN MAGYAR ART

1F KNOLL GALLERY Founded in the late ’80s, the first privately owned gallery of the former Eastern bloc is still a renowned site for exhibiting works from throughout Central Europe.

Budapest 1061, Liszt Ferenc tér 10; budapest.knollgalerie.at 1G MOLNÁR ANI GALLERY Up-and-coming artists from Hungary and the surrounding region are given valuable exposure through intriguing solo and group exhibitions held here all year.

Budapest 1088, Bródy Sándor utca 22; molnaranigaleria.hu

1A ACB GALLERY Concealed within the courtyard of an ordinary downtown apartment building, this avant-garde viewing space regularly highlights intriguing works by young artists. Budapest 1068, Király utca 76; acbgaleria.hu

1H TRAPÉZ Found near the beautiful Károlyi Garden, this gallery features a broad spectrum of works created in assorted mediums to boost contemporary aesthetic movements.

Budapest 1053, Henszlmann Imre utca 3; trpz.hu

1B FAUR ZSÓFI GALLERY Here on Buda’s increasingly popular cultural nexus of Bartók Béla Boulevard, visitors find three floors of exhibition areas dedicated to questioning the status quo. Budapest 1114, Bartók Béla út 25; galeriafaur.hu

1I VÁRFOK GALLERY See influential paintings, sculptures, and video installations at this showcase for major Magyar artists from yesterday and today, located in the Castle District.

Budapest 1012, Várfok utca 11; varfok-gallery.eu

1C DEÁK ERIK A GALLERY Just a short walk away from Budapest’s historic Opera House, this showroom presents significant contemporary works by established and emerging Hungarian artists. Budapest 1061, Mozsár utca 1; deakgaleria.hu

1J VILTIN GALLERY From curvaceously carved glass statues to 3D paintings that break the fourth wall, all kinds of creative works are found here on a side street near Andrássy Avenue.

Budapest 1061, Vasvári Pál utca 1; viltin.hu FAUR ZSÓFI GALLERY

Prepare for the unexpected at this gallery featuring experimental works by local and foreign artists, with featured mediums including paintings and installations.

Budapest 1066, Zichy Jenő utca 32; horizontgaleria.hu 1D HORIZONT GALLERY

1E KISTEREM Budapest’s underground art scene gets its chance to shine in this haven for cutting-edge visionaries, where contemporary culture evolves in exhibits of varied genres. Budapest 1052, Képíró utca 5; kisterem.hu

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C U LT U R E – 4 5

krisztian bodis rapher Krisztián Bódis Talented Hungarian photog Budapest images. ing specializes in breathtak true local who knows a is n ztiá Kris A city native, his hand.

Budapest like the back of of architecture and what keeps st, ape to take pictures of in Bud in and again? aga m the e tur cap you inspired to

Q: What are your favorite types

tial buildings and their have a past that speaks spiral staircases – they metrical modernity; volumes, enhanced with geo s buildings are found hau Bau , on Pozsonyi Avenue I also love Secessionist in profusion. Additionally, created a lengthy photo ly buildings, and I have recent ch is a current favorite, but essay of Gellért Bath, whi bit the time. Photography is naturally this changes all for new ing look ntly sta con I’m like a challenge for me; s, so it never gets boring. perspectives and subject

A: I really love Bauhaus residen

Check out facebook.com/ Krisztián’s photos.

budapestimages to see

3 EXTRAORDINARY EXHIBITS FOR SEEING WORLDCLASS ART 2A “FLUXUS AND FRIENDS” Psychedelic paintings and eccentric installations provide glimpses into Fluxus – one of the 20th century’s most radical art movements – at the contemporary Ludwig Museum. September 22 – November 26, Ludwig Museum: Budapest 1095, Komor Marcell utca 1; ludwigmuseum.hu 2B “PÉTER KORNISS – CONTINUING MEMORIES”

See the awe-inspiring oeuvre of an award-winning Magyar photographer, whose visual repertoire portrays vanishing lifestyles and traditions fading with globalization.

September 29 – January 7, Hungarian National Gallery: Budapest 1014, Szent György tér 2; mng.hu Linking the city of Shanghai with Budapest’s erstwhile Sanghay Bar, the exhibition encapsulates the contrast between East and West through archive photos and relics.

September 22 – April 8, Ferenc Hopp Museum of Asiatic Arts: Budapest 1062, Andrássy út 103; hoppmuseum.hu 2C “SANGHAY – SHANGHAI”

PÉTER KORNISS

MUSEUM OF ETHNOGRAPHY

3 MAJOR MUSEUMS HOUSED WITHIN HISTORIC LANDMARKS 3A MUSEUM OF ETHNOGRAPHY Admire the statue-topped façade and arched hall lined by black-marble columns at this museum – a former courthouse – before it closes for renovations in December. Budapest 1055, Kossuth Lajos tér 12; neprajz.hu 3B HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY Located within the green-domed Royal Palace atop Castle Hill, this onetime residence for monarchs is now filled with Hungarian masterpieces dating back centuries. Budapest 1014, Szent György tér 2; mng.hu 3C HUNGARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM Leafy gardens surround this downtown landmark where Hungary’s 1848 Revolution reportedly began when poet Sándor Petőfi recited his “National Song” on the steps. Budapest 1088, Múzeum körút 14-16; mnm.hu

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3 FRESHLY PAINTED MURALS FOUND AROUND DOWNTOWN

PAN GALACTIC GARGLE BLASTER

4A “BLIND DATE” BY CHRISTIAN BÖHMER (MR. TRASH) By depersonalizing

this mural’s protagonist whose dinner date didn’t show, Böhmer reflects on a general problem for a generation living in the virtual world: loneliness. Budapest 1117, Rákóczi Bridge (Buda side) 4B “PAN GALACTIC GARGLE BLASTER”

BY FAT HEAT, MR. ZERO, AND OBIEONE

Combining a culinary theme with a smidgen of sci-fi, this massive mural depicts the “Best Drink in Existence” from a contemporary classic, The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy.

1073 Budapest, Kertész utca 4C “THE ART OF GASTRONOMY, THE GASTRONOMY OF ART” BY HRVB

Spotlighting the similarities of gastronomy and art, German artist HRVB draws parallels between making a Magyar meal and painting a paprika in one variegated artwork.

1073 Budapest, Kertész utca

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3 MUSEUMS THAT ARE GENUINELY FUN TO VISIT 6A HOUDINI MUSEUM Honoring the famed Magyar magician with a collection of his personal belongings, this mysterious mansion awaits anyone who can crack the code on its door.

1014 Budapest, Dísz tér 11; houseofhoudinibudapest.com

TRAFÓ

3 VENUES FOR VIEWING MODERN DANCE SHOWS

6B PINBALL MUSEUM About 130 cool arcade contraptions – from 19th-century wooden versions to more modern machines – flicker, tinkle and jingle at this exciting interactive exhibit.

1137 Budapest, Radnóti Miklós utca 18; flippermuzeum.hu 6C VIDEO GAME MUSEUM Play “Mortal Combat” or collect coins with everyone’s favorite Italian plumber at this interactive exhibit boasting about 200 games from the early ’80s to the late ’90s.

Budapest 1061, Liszt Ferenc tér 1; consolemuseum.hu

5A RAM COLOSSEUM Located in north Pest, this multipurpose event center is the home base for Hungary’s ExperiDance company, presenting lively shows based on Magyar history.

Budapest 1133, Kárpát utca 23; ramcolosseum.hu

HOUDINI MUSEUM

5B TRAFÓ Budapest’s edgiest theater brings cutting-edge choreographies to Hungary from all over the world, while also providing a platform for major Magyar movement artists.

Budapest 1094, Liliom utca 41; trafo.hu 5C VÁRKERT BA ZA AR This recently renovated riverfront landmark at the base of Castle Hill is now hosting shows by Hungary’s National Dance Theater, ranging from ballet to flamenco.

Budapest 1013, Ybl Miklós tér 2-6; nemzetitancszinhaz.hu 5 2 – C U LT U R E

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LISZT ACADEMY

3 VENUES FOR HEARING UP-ANDCOMING MAGYAR MUSICIANS 7A BÉLA BÁRTOK MEMORIAL HOUSE Within the former home of Hungary’s greatest 20th-century composer, outstanding young musicians present impressive piano recitals and chamber-orchestra concerts. Budapest 1025, Csalán út 29; bartokmuseum.hu 7B LISZT ACADEMY Hungary’s most prestigious music academy is housed within a glorious Art Nouveau building in downtown Budapest, and its students frequently perform for the public. Budapest 1061, Liszt Ferenc tér 8; lfze.hu 7C PALACE OF ARTS (MÜPA ) Budapest’s most modern performance hall frequently showcases the talents of young Hungarian and international musicians in the “Rising Stars” concert series. Budapest 1095, Komor Marcell utca 1; mupa.hu 5 4 – C U LT U R E

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WELLNESS

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Even when it’s cold outside, there are numerous ways to stay fit here in the Magyar metropolis. Several English-friendly gyms offer day passes, while some wooded parklands provide ideal sites for hiking and admiring autumn colors – and of course, the city’s thermal spas welcome soakers year-round.

S Z É C H E N Y I BAT H

LU K ÁC S BAT H

3 THERMAL BATHS WITH STEAMY OUTDOOR POOLS OPEN ALL YEAR 1A LUK ÁCS BATH Three large open-air pools of mineralrich waters await paddlers and swimmers who wish to relax and rejuvenate amid the serene and secluded setting of this centuries-old healing site. 1023 Budapest, Frankel Leó út 25-29; en.lukacsfurdo.hu 1B RUDAS BATH As Budapest’s only bath that has served soakers since 1520, Rudas Bath boasts a rooftop panorama pool providing an alfresco vantage point for soakers to admire the entire Pest skyline. 1013 Budapest, Döbrentei tér 9; en.rudasfurdo.hu 1C SZÉCHENYI BATH In chilly weather, steam rises from the surface of two large soaking spaces that occupy Széchenyi Bath’s lavish courtyard, where a lengthy lap pool also awaits sporty swimmers. 1146 Budapest, Állatkerti körút 9-11; szechenyibath.hu 58 – WELLNESS

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BUDAPEST’S THERMAL BATHS

Hungary happens to lie atop a thin layer of the Earth’s crust, so thermally heated mineral-rich waters bubble up to the surface nationwide – especially in Budapest. This is the source of the city’s thermal baths, where soakers are soothed in pools of healing water that can reach temperatures above 40°C. When visiting a thermal spa, make sure to check that it welcomes your gender that day (some baths only allow men or women on certain days), and bring flip-flops, a towel, a swimsuit, and cash; swim caps are required in lap pools, and hair dryers are provided. Spa patrons can use a changing-room locker or rent a cabin; an attendant helps visitors in both cases. Take a shower before entering the baths, and don’t stay in a hot pool, steam room, or sauna for too long, or you may become light-headed.

Other bath amenities include massages and drinking cures (but DO NOT drink the pool water).

3 SOOTHING SALT CHAMBERS TO BOOST YOUR BREATHING OXYGEN WELLNESS

3 ENGLISHFRIENDLY GYMS THAT OFFER DAY PASSES 2A HOLMES PLACE Hidden beneath downtown’s Gozsdu Udvar complex, this deluxe fitness center has diverse workout machines and a pool; guests with day passes can join fitness classes. Budapest 1075, Holló utca 12-14; holmesplace.hu

3A LUK ÁCS BATH Added during a recent renewal of this historic thermal spa, a new Himalayan salt wall and a salt sauna provide relaxing places to heal lungs between soaking sessions.

Budapest 1023, Frankel Leó utca 25-29; en.lukacsfurdo.hu 3B SÓBUDA SALT CAVE In the north-Buda neighborhood of Óbuda, this family-friendly facility features relaxing music and a floor full of loose salt that kids can play in like a sandbox.

Budapest 1035, Kerék utca 2; sobuda.hu 3C SÓKER SALT CAVE Just steps away from Andrássy Avenue, this underground hideaway has walls made with colorful salt blocks, and hosts frequent meditation sessions and mellow concerts. Budapest 1066, Mozsár utca 7; kristalysobarlang.hu S Ó K E R S A LT C AV E

2B NR1 FITNESS This fresh addition to Budapest’s gym scene is located near the downtown Oktogon intersection and operates 24-7, welcoming international visitors with friendly prices. Budapest 1062, Aradi utca 8-10; nr1fitness.hu 2C OX YGEN WELLNESS Perched on a hillside near the Buda Castle, this fitness complex features advanced exercise equipment, a huge pool, and saunas with windows providing panoramic views. Budapest 1016, Naphegy utca 67; oxygenwellness.hu 62 – WELLNESS

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3 PLACES FOR EASY AUTUMN HIKING

GELLÉRT HILL

4B NORMAFA High atop the Buda Hills, this panoramic parkland sprawls along a forested ridge to the Elizabeth Lookout Tower atop János Hill – take bus 21A from Széll Kálmán Square to begin your active adventure.

4A GELLÉRT HILL Climb to the peak of Budapest’s city-center mini-mountain from either Gellért Square or near the Buda side of the Elizabeth Bridge by Rudas Bath; amazing views from beside the Citadel are a worthwhile reward.

4C FENYŐGYÖNGYE Leave city life behind within Budapest’s borders by catching bus 65 from Óbuda’s Kolosy Square to discover a wooded hilltop valley crisscrossed with hiking trails, picnic facilities, and panoramic views.

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SHOPPING

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Hungarian design gets increasingly creative with each passing season, and nowadays we can find all kinds of cutting-edge fashions handcrafted by Magyar mavens. Along with these avant-garde goods, Budapest also offers charming traditional toys and many other gift items at monumental Christmas fairs.

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10 DESIGN HOTSPOTS FOR GETTING HUNGARIAN GOODS

P R I N TA

1A FLATLAB Discover stylishly understated Magyar-made clothing, surprising ceramics, and cutting-edge art books at this trendsetting shop just steps away from Kálvin Square.

Budapest 1082, Baross utca 3 (buzzer 14); facebook.com/flatlab

1F PRINTA Global and Hungarian designers are represented side-by-side at Budapest’s first concept store, which hosts public workshops teaching how to make silkscreen prints.

Budapest 1075, Rumbach Sebestyén utca 10; printa.hu

1B THE GARDEN STUDIO This downtown boutique features an impressive assortment of modern Hungarian apparel for women and men, from sweaters by TOMCSANYI to bags by Alma Abonyi.

Budapest 1061, Paulay Ede utca 18; thegardenstudio.hu

1G REPERTORY On the Buda side at the base of Castle Hill, this fresh addition to the city’s style scene presents cool garments and accessories, and even intriguing potted plants.

Budapest 1013, Alagút utca 4; facebook.com/repertorystore

1C LE PETIT DESIGN Fashion fans of all ages will find something they love at this bijou boutique by beautiful Károlyi Garden, selling clothing, jewelry, finger puppets, and much more.

Budapest 1053, Magyar utca 22; facebook.com/lepetitdesign

1H SZIMPLA DESIGN SHOP The world’s most famous ruin pub recently opened a small-but-fascinating store chock-full of funky design items and retro treasures that were rescued from the trash.

Budapest 1073, Kazinczy utca 14; facebook.com/szimpladesignshop

1D MONO ART & DESIGN Part gallery and part boutique, this spacious site features a rotating variety of domestic design items like artsy stationery, pastel earrings, and spiffy pillows. Budapest 1053, Kossuth Lajos utca 12; facebook.com/monoartanddesign

1I THE VELVET CHEMISTRY Hungarian haute couture abounds at this hotspot offering the latest innovations of Magyar fashionistas like Dora Abodi, Fanni Varga, and Dora Konsánszky.

Budapest 1061, Király utca 28; thevelvetchemistry.com

1E PALOMA This multipurpose locale for Hungarian creativity showcases experimental fashion, jewelry, and accessories, all within a hidden courtyard in the heart of downtown. Budapest 1053, Kossuth Lajos utca 14-16; facebook.com/palomabudapest

1J WONDERLAB Colorful contemporary clothing, avant-garde jewelry, and head-turning accessories dominate this hip boutique – check out the cool selection of bags and backpacks. Budapest 1053, Veres Pálné utca 3; facebook.com/wonderLABconcept

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dori tomcsanyi terous Magyar designer The namesake brand of dex d terized by playful freehan Dóri Tomcsányi is charac s. tion bina com r colo ing tch patterns and eye-ca as a university project, but TOMCSANYI started out eading to three continents grew into a major brand spr in five years.

Q: What is unique about the sty

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incorporate loca residents, and how do you into your designs?

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U R B A N B E T YÁ R

3 BP BUSINESSES THAT DOUBLE AS MINI-MUSEUMS 2A BARBER SHOP MUSEUM Found in a cool Budapest man cave, a free one-room exhibit displays historic haircutting relics, including old-school razors, vintage hairdryers, and silver scissors. Budapest 1054, Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 64; facebook.com/ barbershopbajcsy 2B SZAMOS CHOCOLATE MUSEUM Dive into a cocoa-coated realm at the city’s sweetest museum, where guided tours unveil exceptional relics of chocolate history with plenty of tempting tasting stops. Budapest 1055, Kossuth Lajos tér 10; csokolademuzeum.hu 2C URBAN BETYÁR ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM An interactive display of regional relics fills a downtown restaurant’s basement with Magyar folk-art treasures, including hand-painted furniture and ornate outfits. Budapest 1051, Október 6. utca 16-18; urbanbetyar.com 72 – SHOPPING

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BASILICA

3 CHRISTMAS FAIRS HELD IN LANDMARK LOCATIONS 3A BUDAPEST CHRISTMAS FAIR The biggest of Budapest’s merry seasonal marketplaces welcomes visitors in downtown Vörösmarty Square with handcrafted gifts, live music, and sparkling lights.

November 10 – December 31, Budapest 1051, Vörösmarty tér; en.budapestinfo.hu 3B ADVENT FEAST AT THE BASILICA The plaza before St. Stephen’s Basilica comes alive with Yuletide spirit as children ice skate around a tall Christmas tree and light shows shine on the church.

November 24 – January 1, Budapest 1051, Szent István tér; adventiunnep.hu 3C ADVENT AT THE VÁRKERT BA ZA AR Amid the newly renovated riverfront promenade at the Buda Castle base, discover a charming gathering full of local vendors, performances, and panoramic views.

Dates to be announced, Budapest 1013, Várkert Bazaar; varkertbazar.hu 74 – SHOPPING

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HOLD STREET MARKET

3 HISTORIC MARKET HALLS FOR SHOPPING AND FEASTING 4A GREAT MARKET HALL This gigantic indoor bazaar offers souvenirs and Hungarian specialties side-by-side upstairs, while fresh foodstuffs from across the country are on the ground floor. Budapest 1093, Vámház körút 1-3; piaconline.hu 4B HOLD STREET MARKET Just a few steps away from Parliament, this marketplace is now a culinary hotspot where several top Budapest chefs set up trendy eateries beside classic food stalls. Budapest 1054, Hold utca 13; belvarospiac.hu 4C KLAUZÁL SQUARE MARKET A recent renovation turned this historic hall into a modern setting for farmer’s markets and design fairs, along with lángos fried-dough snacks and meaty treats.

Budapest 1072, Klauzál tér 11; facebook.com/klauzalpiac 76 – SHOPPING

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NIGHTLIFE

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No matter what time of year it is, Budapest’s nightlife scene never stops buzzing – the city’s famed ruin pubs winterize their crumbling premises to keep the party going through spring, while swanky cocktail bars serve heartwarming customized concoctions, and New Year’s Eve is celebrated with style.

10 CLUBS WHERE GOOD GROOVES MAKE YOU MOVE 1A 4BRO DOWNTOWN By the Király Street entrance to Pest’s popular Gozsdu Udvar complex of bars and restaurants, this is a crowd-pleasing nightspot for dining, drinking, and dancing.

Budapest 1075, Király utca 13; facebook.com/4brodowntown 1B AETHER Flashing lasers and surreal images surround the hundreds of party people who pack into this hedonism hub, which is also found within the colorful Gozsdu Udvar scene.

Budapest 1075, Király utca 13; aetherclub.com

PONTOON

1C AKVÁRIUM KLUB Make a splash at this city-center venue located beneath a manmade lake, where a wide repertoire of performers ranges from world-famous bands to experimental DJs. Budapest 1051, Erzsébet tér 12; akvariumklub.hu

1G ÖTKERT The city’s classiest carousers get down with gusto at Budapest’s favorite club for seeing and being seen, where the dance floor lies under a retractable glass roof.

Budapest 1051, Zrínyi utca 4; otkert.hu

1D BOB Top-notch tunes spill out from this tony hotspot close to the Chain Bridge, where numerous party series entice the city’s beautiful people to dance the night away.

Budapest 1051, Széchenyi István tér 7-8; bobbudapest.hu

1H PONTOON Tucked directly by Budapest’s famed Chain Bridge, this riverfront lounge is primarily popular in summertime, but it’s winterized to welcome global groovers all year. Budapest 1051, Antall József rakpart 1; facebook.com/pontoonbudapest

1E CORVIN CLUB An underground vibe fills the top floor of an old-school department store at this late-night club, where internationally renowned DJs spin discs for rowdy revelers.

Budapest 1085, Blaha Lujza tér 1-2; corvinclub.hu

1I TEREM BUDAPEST A Void sound system and lavish theme parties draw chic throngs into this clandestine club found a few steps away from Váci Street and a world away from the ordinary.

Budapest 1052, Piarista köz 2; facebook.com/terembudapest

1F LÄRM Parties keep on pumping into the morning inside this windowless Berlin-style techno disco, hidden away from daytime on the upper floor of the Fogas Ház ruin pub.

Budapest 1072, Akácfa utca 51; larm.hu

1J TOLDI KLUB When the credits roll for the day’s last film, the lobby of a city-center art-house cinema often becomes a high-spirited nightspot where live bands and DJs shine.

Budapest 1054, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 36-38; toldiklub.hu

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BLACK SWAN BAR IN DOWNTOWN BUDAPEST LO C AT I O N BARSIDE

3 COCKTAIL BARS THAT CREATE CUSTOM CONCOCTIONS

Budapest, Klauzál utca 32.

M A K E YO U R R ESERVAT I O N

+36 30 789 1683

2A BLACK SWAN This exclusive cocktail hotspot preserves highclass bar culture in the heart of Budapest’s party hub with a sleek black-and-gold interior and a cosmopolitan spirit. Budapest 1072, Klauzál utca 32; facebook.com/blackswanbudapest 2B BARSIDE As a well-shaken blend of a bijou bar and a store packed with drink-making accessories, Barside sweeps guests off their feet with cocktails made by skilled mixers. 1075 Budapest, Madách Imre út 10; facebook.com/barside.budapest 2C HOTSY TOTSY Walk through a barbershop’s secret door to find incredible intoxicating concoctions made by a masterful mixer amid a speakeasy ambience of Prohibition-era New York.

1075 Budapest, Síp utca 24; facebook.com/hotobp 82 – NIGHTLIFE

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PÁLINKA As a potent ingredient of Hungarian customs ranging from high-spirited festivals to funerals, Hungary’s iconic fruit-based brandy serves as an enhancement or a salve for every state of mind. Formerly used as a remedy to cure both external injuries and internal diseases, today the alcoholic specialty is consumed for pure enjoyment, and it’s an integral aspect of local hospitality. Love it or hate it, visitors to Hungary can’t really avoid it, especially if you receive an invitation to a Magyar home – and in that case, be prepared for the host to offer you a shot early in the morning, followed by many more toasts as the day proceeds. Pálinka is made from a variety of regional fruits like apricot, plum, strawberry, apple, cherry, or grape, so this traditional tipple is available in a wide assortment of flavors, and the liquor must be distilled in compliance with strict regulations.

3D DÜRER KERT Hard-rocking heavy-metal bands and mini music festivals keep the scene loud at this sprawling semiunderground ruin pub located across the street from City Park.

Budapest 1146, Ajtósi Dürer sor 19-21; durerkert.com 3E ELLÁTÓ HÁ Z In the heart of downtown’s Jewish Quarter, this high-spirited hangout welcomes diverse audio artists – during their regular open-mic nights, you can star onstage.

Budapest 1074, Dob utca 19; facebook.com/ellatohaz

BARBA NEGRA

10 VENUES FOR LIVE MUSIC OF VARIED GENRES

3F GÖDÖR KLUB Just steps away from downtown Deák Square, this large performance hall tucked within the bustling Central Passage hosts concerts, dance shows, and wild parties.

Budapest 1061, Király utca 8-10; godorklub.hu 3G IF CAFÉ Good grooves pour out of this intimate hangout on Ráday Street, where leading Magyar jazz talents enchant guests as they dine on high-quality regional specialties.

Budapest 1092, Ráday utca 19; ifkavezo.hu

3A A38 SHIP Noteworthy bands from near and far rock the boat aboard a former Ukrainian cargo ship that was transformed into a nightclub with multiple stages.

Budapest 1117, moored by the Buda side of Petőfi Bridge; a38.hu

3H LÁMPÁS From sensational psychedelic rock to moody blues to ’70s-style punk, unconventional concerts are the norm at this buzzing basement pub popular with local students.

Budapest 1074; Dob utca 15; alampas.com

3B BARBA NEGRA Hidden in a semi-industrial zone of south Buda, this huge concert hall hosts legendary Hungarian rockers, world-touring heavy-metal acts, and fun tribute bands.

Budapest 1117, Prielle Kornélia utca 4; barbanegra.hu

3I LIEBLING The most refined sub-destination of Budapest’s world-renowned Fogas Ház/Instant party complex is a pleasant spot for dining, drinking, and listening to live music.

Budapest 1072, Akácfa utca 49-51; fogashaz.hu/en/liebling

3C BUDAPEST JA ZZ CLUB Here guests can devour delicious dinners while enjoying rhythms of Magyar jazz masters and globally famed musicians onstage amid a cabaret atmosphere.

Budapest 1136, Hollán Ernő utca 7; bjc.hu

3J PÓTKULCS If you can find this beloved Budapest hangout concealed on a quiet side street behind a brick wall, the reward will be amazing melodies played by Magyar musicians.

Budapest 1067, Csengery utca 65/B; potkulcs.hu

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3 RUIN PUBS THAT ARE WELCOMING IN WINTERTIME 4A ANKER’T This minimalist ruin pub features plenty of indoor facilities like a dance floor, a gallery, and even an escape-room game, making it a pleasurable winter hangout.

Budapest 1061, Paulay Ede utca 33; facebook.com/ankertbar 4B ELLÁTÓ KERT A clandestine drinking destination found down a District VII alleyway hides a semi-covered courtyard with a spacious interior welcoming warm-hearted party people.

Budapest 1075, Kazinczy utca 48

C

M

Y

CM

MY

A pair of iconic Budapest clubs joined forces to share one huge party complex, where revelers immerse into surreal scenes every night of the week all year round.

Budapest 1072, Akácfa utca 49-51; fogashaz.hu, instant.co.hu 4C FOGAS HÁ Z/INSTANT

E L L ÁT Ó K E R T

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CY

CMY

K

EL RAPIDO

3 STREET-FOOD SPOTS OPEN LATE INTO THE NIGHT 5A HOT DOG COLD BEER Here night owls can chow down on loaded hot dogs, battered sausages, and freshly fried potato chips served on a stick until as late as 6am on Fridays and Saturdays.

Budapest 1051, Zrínyi utca 14; facebook.com/hotdogcoldbeer 5B PIZZAME Thin-crust pizzas bake till 6am from Wednesday through Saturday inside this Király Street hotspot, pampering taste buds with monthly specials and unusual toppings.

Budapest 1061, Király utca 20; pizzame.hu 5C EL RAPIDO On bustling Kazinczy Street, a Mexican eatery invites staggering snackers for a quick feast of tacos, burritos, and nachos served every day late into the night.

Budapest 1075, Kazinczy utca 10; tequilashop.hu 90 – NIGHTLIFE

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3 DISTINCTIVE BP SITES HOSTING NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTIES 6A KIOSK BUDAPEST Several packages for diverse feasting and drinking await revelers who want to usher in 2018 amid a captivating atmosphere of exposed brickwork and a towering tree.

Budapest 1056, Március 15. tér 4; kiosk-budapest.com 6B SPOON RESTAURANT Enjoy an exclusive feast at this floating restaurant moored by the Chain Bridge, and enjoy a breathtakingly beautiful view of fireworks blasting over Castle Hill.

Budapest 1051, Vigadó tér 3; spoonrestaurants.hu 6C MA ZEL TOV This popular dining destination of Budapest’s Jewish Quarter sparkles with New Year’s Eve spirit and fills with live violin melodies while guests enjoy savory meals.

Budapest 1074, Akácfa utca 47; mazeltov.hu KIOSK

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PRACTICAL INFO

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Perhaps you’re in Budapest for a short visit, or maybe you’ve just moved here, but either way we are happy to provide helpful hints on how to make the most of your time here.

If you want to store a suitcase, or seek a coworking space, or need to get around in cold conditions, we have you covered.

10 TIPS TO ENJOY BUDAPEST IN COLD-WEATHER MONTHS

1G VISIT INDOOR AT TRACTIONS Budapest has a wealth of fascinating destinations that are indoors, including steamy spa complexes, mammoth market halls, and many museums (but remember that most of them are closed on Mondays).

1A TAKE THE DIRECT AIRPORT BUS This year, Budapest’s public-transport officials added a new bus connecting the airport and the city center (line 100E), so that travelers no longer have to transfer between the bus and metro.

1H GO UNDERGROUND In addition to indoor attractions, Budapest has quite a few fascinating public caves with a steady temperature year-round, including the Szemlő-hegyi Cave (dunaipoly.hu) and the Cave Church (sziklatemplom.hu).

1B GO ON THE METRO Once you are downtown, Budapest’s metro system is a handy (and heated) way to get around most major squares and transport hubs of the city, running from early in the morning until almost midnight.

1I HEART Y HUNGARIAN FOOD The classic cuisine of Hungary is perfect comfort food for wintry weather, rich with meat, thick sauces, and pasta – and many local restaurants offer low-priced “napi menü” lunch specials.

1C ORDER TA XIS Plenty of cabs offer service citywide regardless of the weather, but instead of hailing them on the street, arrange your ride by calling a taxi company – this is the best way to avoid being overcharged.

1J CHESTNUTS ROASTING Several street vendors offer freshly roasted chestnuts at various squares and intersections citywide – use Hemingway’s trick and buy a bag of them to put in your pocket as an edible hand-warmer.

1F USE BUDAPEST’S BIKE-SHARING SYSTEM If the weather isn’t too cold, consider registering to use Budapest’s MOL Bubi bike-sharing system (molbubi.bkk.hu), featuring almost 1,300 green cycles at over 110 docking stations citywide.

1D NO UBER, BUT TA XIFY The Hungarian government banned the ride-sharing firm Uber from operating here, but Europe’s increasingly popular Taxify company (taxify.eu) offers similar services through mobile phones.

1E RIDE AN ILLUMINATED TRAM During Christmastime, some Budapest streetcars are adorned with thousands of glittering bulbs to add holiday sparkle to ordinary rides, such as tram line 2 running along the Pest riverfront.

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3 CITY-CENTER PLACES FOR STORING LUGGAGE WITH EASE LOFFICE

3 COWORKING SPACES THAT ARE STATIONS FOR INNOVATION A relaxing ambience and sunlit settings make work fun at this centrally located community space, perfect for short work sessions and lengthy business days alike.

Budapest 1065, Révay köz 4; kaptarbudapest.hu 2A K APTÁR

3A BUDAPEST LUGGAGE STORAGE Travelers can leave their bags safely locked at this company’s two downtown locations, offering storage facilities every day of the week between 9am and 7pm. Budapest 1052, Régiposta utca 9; budapestluggagestorage.com 3B LION’S LOCKER Found just steps away from bustling Király Street, this new business provides separated lockers of varied sizes along with a café serving delicious breakfasts.

Budapest 1061, Vasvári Pál utca 11; lockerbudapest.com 3C KOFFER LUGGAGE STORAGE In addition to using luggagestorage services available here every day from 9am to 9pm, customers can print their boarding passes, order a coffee, or take a shower. Budapest 1062, Paulay Ede utca 56; bpkoffer.com

2B LOFFICE Welcoming people at a trio of downtown locations, LOFFICE is popular with startups, small businesses, and freelancers, who work amid inspiring interior design.

Budapest 1061, Paulay Ede utca 55; budapest.lofficecoworking.com 2C MOSAIK Housing open spaces for working, several meeting rooms, and a café, this District XIII office is a popular event venue and a regular haunt for Budapest-based expats.

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3 REASONS TO VISIT LAKE BALATON IN FALL OR WINTER 4A BEAUTIFUL TERRAIN Hike up the geologically fascinating Hegyestű Hill to admire a sweeping panorama over the icy lake and the snow-covered Balaton Uplands. bfnp.hu/en/hegyestu-geological-visitor-site-monoszlo 4B SOAK IN A THERMAL LAKE Even during the coldest time of year, the spa at Lake Hévíz – the world’s largest thermal lake, close to Lake Balaton – welcomes guests for soothing soaking in heated waters. spaheviz.hu/en

The Provence style Villa Vitae boutique hotel is the jewel of the vineyard-covered hillside of Balatonfüred.

4C PLENT Y TO DO All year long, visitors can check out WeLoveBalaton.hu for an extensive selection of constantly updated English-language articles and event information covering the entire Lake Balaton region.

In its elegant restaurant, seasonal ingredients are the foundation for the menu, and guests can enjoy the characteristic local wines.

LAKE HÉVÍZ

On chilly autumn days, the villa’s spa area offers sauna, steam cabin, and Jacuzzi services for a perfect relaxation experience.

Various types of massage and body treatments are also available.

In the daytime, the hotel organises open air programmes upon request, where the Villa’s own fleet of Vespa scooters, electric bicycles, and shuttle buses are also at the guests’ disposal to go and discover the mesmerising surrounding landscapes.

In the evenings, the hotel’s own cinema offers its guests a private movie experience.

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T E L: + 3 6 2 1 3 0 0 0 1 0 0 • W E B : V ILLAV ITA E . HU

3 WAYS WE LOVE BUDAPEST HELPS YOU LOVE BUDAPEST 5A UPDATED BP DATA We constantly add new articles about what’s happening in the city, from info about new restaurants, clubs, and festivals to fresh tips for sightseeing in style – and we offer interactive city maps.

5B RELIABLE INFO Our readers can depend on WeLoveBudapest.com for fresh insider information about Hungary’s capital, whether you are visiting Budapest for a quick holiday, or living here long-term as an expat or a student.

5C EVENTS EVERY DAY Our constantly maintained list of current events provides diverse ideas for things to do citywide, including details about upcoming concerts, cultural programs, or the best parties in town.

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The Budapest Insider is brought to you by:

Produced by the team of Budapest residents who create the We Love Budapest online magazine, the Budapest Insider is a guidebook for discovering unexpected and overlooked highlights of Hungary’s capital.

Editor in Chief Regina Papp Senior Editor Nick Robertson Associate Editor Petra Berende Assistant Editor Kata Fári Graphic Designer Milán Prischetzky Illustrator Botond Vörös Photo Researcher Krisztina Bordács Photography László Balkányi, Norbert Hartyányi, Norbert Juhász, Csongor Kiripolszky, Tamás Kőrösi Sales Nikolett Szatmári (nikolett.szatmari@welovebudapest.com) We Love Budapest Insider is produced by We Love Publishing Kft., Budapest, Hungary. Reproduction in part or in whole is strictly prohibited. While our staff takes great care to confirm all information in this guide, we disclaim all responsibility for disruptions caused by errors or omissions. info@welovebudapest.com All rights reserved.

Budapest, 2017