All About Composting - Tim Kohlhauf

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COMPOSTING

Mucked around with and presented by Tim

WSU Extension

Engaging people, organizations, and communities to advance knowledge, economic well-being, and quality of life by fostering inquiry, learning, and the application of research.

Mission

Engaging university-trained volunteers to empower and sustain diverse communities with relevant, unbiased, research-based horticulture and environmental stewardship education.

Soil Health

Encourages building healthy soils to prevent depletion and ensure the longterm viability of local food security & natural resources.

 Importance of healthy soils

 We all have a role to play

 Techniques for preserving and improving soil

Harnessing a Natural process

Happens even if we aren’t involved, eventually.

Compost piles are microbe farms.

By providing ideal conditions we increase efficacy.

Conserves resources.

Why Compost?

Improves water quality and usage.

Improves air quality.

Overall soil health.

The Decomposers

Chemical Decomposers

• Mesophilic bacteria - Heat it up

• Thermophilic bacteria - Like the heat

• Actinobacteria - Fungi-like bacteria

• Fungi - Break down the hard stuff

• Sow/Pillbugs

• Mites

Physical Decomposers

• Worms

• Slugs and Snails

• Millipedes

• Nematodes

Composting

Methods

Vermicomposting

Hot, active composting Cold, passive composting

Requires proper C:N

Aerobic process

Must be monitored and turned

Fastest method Hot Composting

Green:Brow

Green-to-Brown should be between 2:1 and 3:1

n

This is generally easier to monitor than C:N

Carbon-to-nitrogen should be near 30:1

From our previous example:

This can be more difficult to track as you may need references.

2 parts grass = 2x(20:1) = 40:2

1 part dry leaves = 60:1

Total C:N = 100:3 or 33:1

C:N

We have:

More Complex

• 1 Green part coffee grounds (20:1)

• 3 Green parts table scraps (45:3)

• 6 Green parts grass clippings (120:6)

• 1 Brown part wheat straw (50:1)

• An excess supply of dry leaves (Brown)

• Carnivore feces (Dog, Cat, Human, Pig)

What Not to Add

• Noxious weed reproductive bits

• Meat

• Dairy

• Fats and oils

• Some diseased material

• Pesticides

Creating the Pile

Smaller material size is better, but don’t overdo it

Water the pile as you build it for thorough coverage

Greens and browns can be pre-

Turning the Pile

Necessary for aerating the pile

Ensures everything experiences

heat Opportunity for moisture check

Moisture

Allows microbes to travel and stay hydrated

40-60% water (wrung-out sponge)

Improves heat transfer

Problem

Troubleshootin

Solution

Stinky pile - too much nitrogen or water

Turn pile. Add more browns as needed

Not Heating - too little nitrogen, water, or air

Turn pile. Add greens and/or water as needed

g

When’s it Ready?

Cooled down to near ambient temperatures.

Most of the starting materials are unrecognizable

Near neutral pH

What’s in it?

Nutrients

Barr-Tech’s Compost

A significant amount of organic matter

Cold Composting

C:N isn’t as important

Aerobic and anaerobic

Doesn’t need monitoring

How to Cold Compost

Heap materials up as they accumulate and leave it be

Add moisture on occasion, but don’t

drench

Harvest from center and bottom in 6 to

What Not to Add

• Same items as Hot Composting, plus...

• Any unwanted plant seeds

• Consider leaving out pungent items or ensuring they get buried in the pile (Alliums,

Extension
Gardener
info 509-477-2181
Questions?
Tim Kohlhauff WSU
Master
program Contact
mgardener@spokanecounty.org
Composting Fact Sheet
Spokane Master Composter/Recyclers website Home

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