It’s October, and we are already planning a few months ahead. That’s right... up until Christmas. But think how much we can pack in before the festive season – visits to those places that were too hot to tempt in the summer, and too busy thanks to those ready to brave the roaring temperatures. Now is the time we can sit down and list out all those must-sees we have promised ourselves. A few days here and there make for real holiday time, and the opportunity to learn more about the past, the present and the future of this glorious country of ours.
It is interesting, since we incorporated a new book column, the number of contributors who have elected old and new works that celebrate the story of Portugal. And here, in AlgarvePLUS every month, we introduce our latest finds when it comes to places of particular interest. Those features pull in reader comments – and thanks, too.
So, start thinking about your next journey now... will it be to discover the vibes of a major city like Porto or Lisbon, or the quiet, away-fromit-all historic villages tucked away in the countryside, or the wild coast from south to north? In between them there are so many places worth investigating that cannot fail to delight.
In this issue, we have introduced a number of new themes – some sports related, others property development focused, and more on the foods and producers that add flavour to our lives. Sit back and enjoy.
Let your favourite friend relax in Portuguese style. This bespoke handcrafted bed with its 24K gold leaf-detailed wood frame can be made in a choice of Italian velvet fabric colours and sizes. To give you an idea, this particular cat is 30cm in length and in a bed size A. By Aposentis. €400. aposentis.com
ALPACA
Something of a rarity today, so much loved and always appreciated. Handknitted cardigans, vests, jumpers and hats in alpaca wool, supersoft and making their own statement. Check out the new collection at Martina Fashion in Loulé. Sizes S, M and L; prices starting at €149. martina-loule.com
FRONT COVER: Autumn evenings can be a real treat. Grab a blanket, sit back and relax.
Handmade Kilim rugs, in 100% wool, and incorporating vibrant colours. Take a look at what Margarida of Candi Interiors has gathered together in different sizes. candi.pt
Toino Abel, the brilliant basketry artists, weave together heritage, sustainability, and contemporary design. They have produced a limitededition Campo Bucket bag, crafted from woven soft rush complemented by luxurious leather. The Campo stripe fabric, designed by Sam Baron, is key to the collection’s personality. Only 20 pieces will be produced, ten with cognac leather and ten with black.
€209 toinoabel.com/shop/p/campobucket
TIME TO PUT YOUR FEET UP
How’s this, a single sofa which means it is all yours to enjoy. From Portuguese high-style house, Luxxu, the Talie is upholstered in Monet Pearl fabric and its backrest is slightly curved for added aesthetics. The golden metallic support is reminiscent of the mid-century modern era. What more could you want? luxxu.net
Taking a gift to a friend? And all your bags have Christmas images? Stock up with Koessebaer packs from Ikea, three sizes in each in thick paper and with different decorative patterns. €3.99. ikea.com/pt
Côrte Real gallery has much more than artworks, and always a wonderful selection of ornamental pieces. These ceramics are handmade by Oliva Faundez who works in Gipuzkao, and each piece is unique, using Sgraffito, a technique that involves scratching through the top layers to reveal the clay colours underneath. Jugs €75, plates €58, casserole €98. corterealarte.com
DO YOU HAVE ANY TOOTHPICKS?
An FAQ after dinner. Here’s how to serve them – Picasso ceramic sardines in a choice of colours. From Ange Boutik in São Brás, €13.50 each. This is where to go
Beautiful decorative cushion with Sandeman Easy Clean piping, Douro Valley is an embroidered fabric with a linen-look base with botanical elements. This 50x50cm pillow has a hidden zipper and is available in different colour combinations, with or without filling. By Aldeco, from Casa Vostra Home, in Almancil. €98. casavostrahome.com
Tumblers, hand thrown and painted by Molly at Olaria Pequena on the Porches roundabout on the EN125. Available in the shop in the studio, they are 10cm tall and cost €25 each. olariapequena.com
em Aguarela
The doctor of the golden triangle
WHEN DR THOMAS KAISER ARRIVED IN THE ALGARVE IN 2000, HE CARRIED MORE THAN A SUITCASE – HE CARRIED A VISION. TWENTY-FIVE YEARS LATER, THE FAMILY MEDICAL CENTRES HAVE BECOME A CORNERSTONE OF HEALTHCARE IN THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE, TRUSTED BY RESIDENTS, HOLIDAYMAKERS, AND INTERNATIONAL CELEBRITIES
ON SEPTEMBER 6, 2000, Dr Kaiser stepped out of his car, with two dogs and three cats and ahead of his family, into the warmth of the Algarve. Trained across Europe and North America, he was a partner in a thriving medical practice in England, but, he recalls, “I was seeking more freedom, in a warmer climate, where I could create an inspiring and meaningful workplace”. Portugal, with its blend of sunshine, charm, and untapped potential in healthcare, seemed the perfect place to begin again and build something entirely new in Portugal’s sun-drenched south. This is the story of the doctor who helped shape modern private medicine in the Algarve – and why he has no plans to stop anytime soon.
Thomas Kaiser’s journey into medicine spans continents. He trained at the University of Erlangen in Germany, passed the prestigious US Medical Exams (FMGEMS), and pursued specialist training in Family Medicine in both London and Erlangen. He earned a diploma from the Royal College of Obstetrics and Gynaecology in London, and gained valuable experience in Austria, Switzerland, Chicago, New York, and Canada. Each step enriched his expertise and shaped the doctor he is today.
In the Algarve in 2000, private healthcare was still in its infancy. “There was only one small private hospital in Faro,” he says. Over the next two decades, the region would transform. In 2009, Thomas was among the lead doctors who launched the Hospital Particular in Gambelas, serving as Director of the Emergency Department and later heading International Patient Services.
From the start, he envisioned creating a hub for five-star health tourism. Just one month after arriving, he boldly purchased
half of a medical practice in Quinta do Lago and Vale do Lobo. This would grow into the Family Medical Centres (FMC), now an institution in the Golden Triangle.
He quickly set about building trust –writing articles, speaking at conferences, and even serving as the ‘radio doctor’ on Kiss FM. Over time, patients began to see him not only as a physician, but as a trusted confidant. “The greatest reward,” he says, “is the trust of my patients – watching children grow up and later return with families of their own.”
The FMC today
From its modest beginnings, FMC has evolved into two clinics with 20 top specialists, carefully chosen by Thomas and Dr Rob Thomson, alongside a dedicated team of nurses and support staff. The patient base is a cosmopolitan mix of long-term residents, seasonal visitors, and holidaymakers.
Preventative medicine is on the rise, with more patients seeking to maintain wellbeing
rather than simply treat illness. Still, the core of FMC remains the same: dependable, personalised care.
Practising medicine in the Algarve’s ‘Golden Triangle’ brings a distinctive mix of patients – from local families to worldfamous athletes, musicians, and celebrities. “I treat rich and poor, famous or yet to be discovered, with the same diligence,” Dr Kaiser stresses. “But I will admit – it is more interesting to be a family doctor here than in Essex.”
Strong ties with regional hospitals ensure his patients have swift access to advanced care when necessary. And for those unable to visit the clinic, FMC continues a tradition of house calls, no matter how unconventional the setting. “Over 25 years, I’ve attended to patients everywhere from dark hotel rooms to muddy golf courses,” he smiles.
In 2005, Dr. Kaiser broadened FMC’s scope, training in longevity and aesthetic medicine with the German Society for Preventive Medicine. He invited Dr Iberico Nogueira, one of Portugal’s foremost plastic surgeons, to join the team, while also expanding into aesthetic care.
More recently, mental health has become a key focus. “I’ve seen a rise in patients from what’s often called the ‘anxious generation’,” he notes. He has delivered talks on the subject locally and collaborates closely with mental health specialists.
Looking ahead
Marking 25 years in the Algarve, Thomas Kaiser is not contemplating retirement. “I love what I do and will continue for as long as I can contribute and be useful,” he says. His passion for medicine, combined with a constant drive to learn, ensures FMC remains at the forefront of modern healthcare.
For the Golden Triangle, his legacy is clear: world-class medical care delivered with compassion, discretion, and trust.
AN ISLAND IN THE SUN
THE ALGARVE STILL SURPRISES ME. AFTER YEARS OF LIVING HERE, I KEEP STUMBLING ACROSS PLACES THAT FEEL WORLDS AWAY FROM THE GLOSSY BROCHURES. TAKE CULATRA ISLAND – A SANDY STRIP JUST OFF THE COAST FROM FARO AND OLHÃO. SEVEN KILOMETRES LONG, WITH THREE VILLAGES, AROUND A THOUSAND PEOPLE, AND NOT A SINGLE CAR. IMAGINE THAT
Words: NICK ROBINSON, ALGARVE ADDICTS
CGetting There
ULATRA isn’t the polished resort you might expect when you hear the words “island getaway.” There are no infinity pools, no golf courses, no speed bumps because, well, no cars. What it does have is community, resilience, and that rare thing in modern Europe – a life dictated more by tides and seasons than by traffic lights and shopping malls.
I set out to explore it with my friend Nick, on one of our filming adventures, and by the end of the day, I was hooked.
Reaching Culatra is part of the fun. You can hop on a ferry from Faro Marina or from Olhão, just down the road from its famous fish market. The crossing takes about 40 minutes, weaving past oyster farms and sandbanks, with the chance of spotting a flamingo or two. If you’re in a hurry (or just feeling fancy), there are water taxis buzzing back and forth all day. But for me, the best way is with Paulo from Algarve WOW (algarvewow.com). He and his crew run small-group trips into the Ria Formosa lagoon, and from the minute we shook hands at Faro Marina, I knew we were in good company. “We’ll cruise a little, maybe taste some oysters,” Paulo grinned. The weather looked sulky, clouds hanging low over the lagoon. But after the 40-degree scorchers we’d just endured, a bit of shade felt like a blessing. And besides, an island that has thrived for a century without electricity until the 1980s probably doesn’t mind that little bit of drizzle.
Culatra Village
Stepping off the boat in Culatra village is like entering another rhythm. The first thing you notice is the silence. No engines revving, no scooters rattling by. Just the scrape of a boat being hauled up on the sand, the clink of coffee cups at a café, and the occasional bark of a dog that looks as though it has free run of the whole island.
The village is home to about 750 permanent residents, most descendants of fishermen who migrated here in the early 20th century from Olhão and Fuseta. They were drawn by the sheltered waters and the rich bounty of clams, octopus, and fish. Even today, most households are somehow tied to the sea.
I wandered the sandy lanes past pastel-painted houses, some with solar panels sprouting from their roofs, others still proudly old-school with wooden shutters and laundry lines strung across alleys. There’s a residents’ association, a library, a small post office, a Red Cross post, even a government-run clinic. Not bad for a place where wheelbarrows outnumber bicycles.
And then there’s the food. About ten restaurants serve simple, superb seafood. Clams drenched in garlic and white wine. Octopus, grilled or stewed until tender. Fish so fresh it practically jumps from the grill to your plate.
I’d heard whispers about Neusa, a local baker with a cult following for her Jesuits – a layered almondy pastry from the north of Portugal. She married a Culatra fisherman, settled here, and soon the islanders were hooked on her cakes. Sadly, when we turned up, shutters were down. Maybe that’s island life in a nutshell: you get what the day gives you, and if that means no cake, so be it.
Below: The Culatra waters are home to a vast number of fish and the island has been home to generations of fishermen. Opposite page: top left clockwise: take the ferry from Faro or Olhão; boats wherever you look; no roads, just sandy paths and flocks of birds; te charm of local homes
The sandy streets are lined with cafés, bars, and guesthouses painted in cheerful colours. The 1851 lighthouse, still in operation, towers above it all
Hangares: ghosts of seaplanes and a hermit called the Werewolf
From Culatra village, you can walk east to Hangares, the island’s quietest corner. Only about 100 people live here, and their neighbours include dunes, seabirds, and one slightly surreal relic of history.
Back in 1917, during the First World War, the Portuguese Navy began building a seaplane base here for anti-submarine patrols. Construction started, hangars went up, but the project fizzled out before it became operational. The base was abandoned, leaving just the name: Hangares.
Legend has it the first inhabitant wasn’t a soldier at all but Manuel, known as ‘the Werewolf,’ a hermit who lived in a hut between the dunes and the sea. What he thought of the halfbuilt seaplane base, I’d love to know.
Today, there’s a miniature replica of a Tellier T3 seaplane as a nod to this aviation ghost story, but otherwise life here is slow and sandy. The ferries don’t even stop, so unless you’ve got strong legs or a water taxi, you’ll never stumble across it.
Farol: where the lighthouse rules
Keep walking west and you’ll eventually reach Farol, which
literally means ‘lighthouse’. This is the island’s postcard spot, a summer holiday magnet for families from the mainland. Around 80 people live here year-round, swelling to many more when the ferries offload sunseekers.
The streets are still sandy, but they’re lined with cafés, bars, and guesthouses painted in cheerful colours. The 1851 lighthouse, still in operation, towers above it all, guiding ships safely along Portugal’s southern coast.
Farol is where I sat down for one of those Algarve lunches that etch themselves into your memory. At À-do-João Restaurant, run today by Chinocas and her family, we feasted on clams, a whole grilled dourada, and a bottle of crisp white wine.
“João was a famous diver here,” Chinocas told us. “He founded the place. When he passed away, we kept his name to honour him.” Between her warmth, the fish, and the hum of contented diners around us, it was clear this wasn’t just a business; it was a community hub.
In winter, Chinocas heads to the mainland, closing up shop until the season returns. “But summers here are magic,” she smiled. “The beach, the sunsets, the music. And we try to keep it sustainable – selling local fish, only in season.”
Farol has no shortage of spots to linger. MarAmais Beach Bar
is a little shack with big views. Another family-run bar repaints its wooden façade every year, adding its own colourful mark to the island. If you wander far enough, you’ll find long beaches where the Atlantic crashes in, and little lanes where rental cottages sit cheek-by-jowl with fishermen’s homes.
For my friend Nick, Farol also carries personal memories. He got married here a decade ago, and as we strolled past the lighthouse, he pointed out the spot. “Ten years already,” he mused. A reminder that places are made of stories as much as scenery.
One of the highlights of our trip came courtesy of Paulo again. Just off Culatra lie some of the cleanest oyster beds in Europe, nurtured by the tidal flushing of the Ria Formosa. I’ll admit, I’m not the world’s biggest oyster fan. But when Paulo shucked a couple fresh from the water and handed them over, I had to try.
Briny, silky, with a sweet finish that tasted like pure ocean. Even Nick, who’d sworn off oysters, admitted these were the best he’d ever had. We washed them down with dates, a quirky but effective palate cleanser, and laughed at our own surprise. Sometimes you just need to give the sea another chance.
Stepping back in time
What struck me most about Culatra was the feeling of stepping sideways in history. As Nick put it: “It’s like Portugal in the ’90s. Maybe even the ’80s.”
No cars, no supermarkets, no chain stores. Just sandy streets, neighbours who all know each other, and an unhurried pace that mainland Portugal left behind long ago.
And yet, Culatra isn’t stuck. The residents are pushing for legalised housing, embracing solar energy, experimenting with aquaculture. They’re not rejecting modernity, just choosing to meet it on their own terms.
Practical Tips
Getting there: Ferries run from Faro and Olhão daily. Water taxis are quicker but pricier. Apart from time saving, though, the drivers have stories to share that you wouldn’t get on a ferry.
Eating: Try À-do-João in Farol for classic seafood, or wander Culatra village for smaller, family-run tavernas.
Sleeping: Most people visit for the day, but you can rent cottages in Farol if you fancy waking up to the sound of waves.
Bring cash: There are no banks or ATMs on the island.
Respect the place: This is a living community, not just a tourist attraction. Greet people, keep the beaches clean, and remember that for many, this is home.
Why Culatra matters
It would be easy to dismiss Culatra as a quaint backwater, but that misses the point. The island shows how communities can adapt without losing their soul. From fishermen earning €800 to €2,000 a month, to oyster farmers exporting delicacies across Europe, to families repainting their beach bar every spring – life here may be simple, but it’s anything but stagnant.
Most of all, Culatra offers perspective. Twenty minutes from the mainland you can trade cars for wheelbarrows, schedules for tides, noise for silence. Shoulders drop, lungs fill, and you remember that sometimes, the best way forward is to slow down.
As we motored back to Faro Marina with Paulo, sun finally breaking through the clouds, oysters settling happily in our bellies, I thought of all the towns left to explore on our Algarve Unlocked journey. Culatra may not have castles or cathedrals, but it has something rarer: a community built on water, weather, and sheer willpower.
And that’s worth unlocking any day.
Above left: No cars. So that’s no taxis, no Ubers. This is an island you walk, totting luggage and shopping. Right: MarAmais for great food, music, and its own hippy, happy atmosphere... and a view across the sparkling waters
Mario Henrique
WHEN YOU THINK OF PORTUGUESE FOOD, CLASSIC STAPLES LIKE FIERY PIRI-PIRI CHICKEN, THE INDULGENT FRANCESINHA SANDWICH, HEARTY BOWLS OF CALDO VERDE, OR THE COUNTLESS VARIATIONS OF COD COME TO MIND. BUT DIG A LITTLE DEEPER AND YOU’LL UNCOVER A SIDE OF PORTUGAL’S CULINARY CULTURE THAT HONOURS TRADITION BUT OFFER A TASTE OF INNOVATION AND SUSTAINABILITY
Words: ELLI TOWNSEND
eco-eats
THE FOOD scene here is evolving, and its producers are stepping confidently into the spotlight creating ecoforward eats that are as inventive as they are delicious: mushrooms cultivated using recycled coffee grounds; organic, fair-trade and vegan chocolate made with only three pure ingredients; gourmet organic honey that’s luxurious in taste, but refreshingly fair in price; and Portugal’s ‘liquid legends’ – the cherrykissed ginjinha and fiery medronho that are cultivated in a protected Biosphere Reserve. And it gets better. Portugal’s food landscape is also brimming with an unexpected gem: the 2024 World’s Best Cheese award.
Foodie gems aside, the demand for organic, sustainable, and fully traceable food and beverage products has entered a period of rapid growth that’s driven by consumers who increasingly view themselves as change agents and active participants in building sustainable and resilient environments.
Today’s consumers are more informed than ever, with unprecedented access to details about the origins, production methods, and impact of the products they buy. From ingredient sourcing to labour practices, consumers are not only aware but increasingly discerning – demanding proof of authenticity and accountability at every stage of the supply chain. This heightened awareness has transformed purchasing decisions into deliberate choices, where values such as sustainability, ethics, and transparency carry as much weight as price or convenience.
Castro Verde has so much to offer
Just over an hour’s drive from the Algarve lies an unassuming oasis: the Castro Verde Biosphere Reserve – the only one south of the Tagus. Portugal is home to 12 dedicated Biosphere Reserves as classified by UNESCO. Designation as a Biosphere Reserve ensures limited agriculture, where traditional methods are used to cultivate food in harmony with the land, leaving only the lightest footprint on the environment.
To display the Biosfera Castro Verde label on products, businesses must meet strict criteria to guarantee that their products promote sustainable development; namely, to reconcile biodiversity conservation with socioeconomic development. A stroll through Castro Verde leads you to the local tourism office, where displays showcase regional treasures – wine and liqueurs, cheeses and cured meats, and honey.
In today’s hyper-connected digital realm, brand transparency is no longer optional – it’s expected. The rise of conscious consumerism underscores this shift, reflecting the growing power of buyers to influence what appears on store shelves and how food is produced. In the food world, this means people are voting with their purchases, choosing brands that prioritize ethical and sustainable production and even packaging considerations, and, in doing so, actively steering the market toward businesses that demonstrate genuine commitment to ethical practices.
In Europe’s competitive agricultural market, Portugal is leveraging the EU’s Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) to craft its own CAP Strategic Plan that’s tailored to its landscape, farmers, and traditions. Portugal aims to strengthen its disaster management, improve food security, address climate change, support young farmers, and encourage sustainable farming practices in rural areas – measures that resonate deeply in a country where farming traditions are central to cultural identity.
Visual identity also plays a vital role in protecting local producers. Labels bearing the Portuguese flag instantly signal national pride and authenticity, assuring consumers that what they’re buying is truly grown or made in Portugal. Meanwhile, the BIOSFERA Castro Verde label goes a step further – highlighting biodiversity-friendly farming and sustainable land stewardship unique to the Castro Verde region.
Proudly certified with the Biosfera Castro Verde label, O Quintal has been handcrafting its liqueurs for nearly two decades, reimagining regional flavours while staying rooted in tradition. What began as a husband-and-wife passion – drawing on childhood memories of taverns, family recipes, and ancestral knowledge – has grown into a full-time pursuit with more than 60 registered liqueurs. Each bottle is handmade and the result of six years of dedication –from harvesting to production to ageing.
O Quintal’s portfolio ranges from classics like ginjinha to bold medronho picked in the surrounding hills, alongside inventive infusions of carob, quince, cinnamon, blackberry, and their renowned Abafadinho, made from untreated grapes grown on Biosphere soil. Many ingredients, from pennyroyal and river mint to black raspberries and strawberries, are foraged or cultivated within the Castro Verde Biosphere Reserve, ensuring that every bottle reflects the land’s biodiversity. The company’s range of hand-crafted liqueurs seeks to preserve regional flavours and offers commitment to sustainability for a new generation who are seeking authenticity with a twist.
So sweet
Browse a bit more and you’ll find ApisOrgânica’s jars with their striking purple label and playful bee logo, a design inspired by founder Ana’s youngest daughter. A biologist by training, Ana saw organic honey as both a natural and necessary choice, turning production into a true family affair with everyone pitching in along the way. The hives are nestled in pristine landscapes – from the Guadiana Valley to the Serra do Caldeirão and the banks of the Mira River – where bees forage freely among rockrose, rosemary, strawberry tree, and soagem. The result is honey that captures more than just sweetness – it’s the very essence of Portugal’s wild flora. Beyond her honey, Ana also sells golden pollen – a natural superfood packed with nutrients.
So surprising
Stop! Don’t throw out those used coffee grounds just yet. They can be turned into mushrooms – or at least that’s the innovative approach of Lisbon-based Nãm Mushroom Farm. The concept is simple but brilliant: transform a waste product that’s usually discarded and use it to grow mushrooms. As Nãm puts it: “We are on a mission to reconnect people with their food.”
So, how does it work? The Nãm team collects used coffee grounds from local businesses, then mixes them with water, straw, and mushroom spawn before packing the blend into substrate bags. These bags are placed in temperature-controlled rooms for two to three weeks, where the mushrooms incubate, before being moved into larger growing spaces to mature.
Once ready, the mushrooms are harvested and delivered straight to local cafés, restaurants, and supermarkets. And the cycle doesn’t stop there: the spent substrate is donated to the municipal councils of Lisbon and Cascais, where it’s used as fertilizer to enrich the soil in community gardens. It’s a zero-waste system with maximum impact that’s turning yesterday’s coffee into tomorrow’s harvest.
And at Alma do Cacau, chocolate is more than a treat – it’s a return to origins. At the heart of the brand lies a simple yet powerful mission: return to the origins of cocoa and reclaim the essence of true chocolate. Their commitment goes well beyond the standard FairTrade certification, offering chocolates that are organic, vegan, paleo, and made with just three simple ingredients – while being gluten free, palm oil free, lectin free, and cane sugar free.
Guided by a deep respect for the people who grow their cocoa, Alma do Cacau pays producers above market value, forging strong, mutually beneficial relationships that connect them as closely as possible
to the land. The result is chocolate that showcases the very best of organic farming, with the environment also reflected in their eco-conscious packaging. But perhaps the greatest secret of all is their devotion to simplicity: every small batch bar is crafted from cocoa beans, coconut sugar, and cocoa butter – producing a chocolate that is authentic, unpretentious, and deeply sensory, where each bar tells a story of origin, care, and transparency. Choosing Alma do Cacau’s chocolate is a celebration of premium ingredients and an implicit understanding of the vital role it plays in sustainable farming.
Winning ways
Tucked high in the mountains lies Quinta do Pomar, a family-run cheesemaker that boasts the title of World’s Best Cheese 2024. Selected from 4,786 entries across 47 countries, their artisanal Queijo de Ovelha Amanteigado – made from raw sheep’s milk and curdled with thistle – won praise for its rich, buttery creaminess and delicate texture, the result of a meticulous ageing process that blends patience, tradition, and passion.
Set in the village of Soalheira, on the southern slopes of the Serra da Gardunha, Quinta do Pomar is a benchmark for artisanal cheese in Portugal. Founded by Joaquim Duarte Alves and Zezinha Alves, the cheese factory is now continued by their son, Nuno Miguel Lucas Duarte Alves and daughter-in-law Maria Sónia Lopes, who together maintain the family heritage and respect for traditional methods.
At Quinta do Pomar, crafting exceptional cheese isn’t just about flavour – it’s about capturing the essence of the land, time, and memory. Beyond their award-winning cheese, Quinta do Pomar produces a diverse range, from mixed sheep-and-goat cheeses to the prized queimoso, a spicy cheese still crafted the old-fashioned way on a bed of straw. Each variety captures the soul of mountain tradition, where minimal processing ensures an authentic flavour and a lighter footprint on the environment.
Whether you’re a foodie forager, gastronome whisperer, nibble nomad, or just someone who loves to eat well, Portugal delivers. The culinary landscape is serving up flavours where every bite tells a story and every visit leaves a memory worth savouring. Welcome to Portugal’s evolving food scene, where timeless traditions blend seamlessly with a more sustainable future.
Go shop
CHOCOLATE
ALMA DO CACAU
238 609 892
almadeportugal.com
Buy online or select supermarkets including Continente, Pingo Doce, and Intermarché, or at speciality store Celeiro.
HONEY
APISORGÂNICA HONEY
965 348 890
apisorganica.pt@gmail.com
Products available at the Castro Verde Tourism Office and directly via email.
LIQUEURS
O QUINTAL LIQUEURS
965 427 726
facebook.com/OQuintal
Available at the Castro Verde Tourism Office, and Vila de Entradas.
MUSHROOMS
NÃM MUSHROOM FARM nammushroom.com
Available online and from Auchan and El Corte Inglés supermarkets, and at Nãm’s urban farm in Marvila, Lisbon
CHEESE
QUINTA DO POMAR
938 551 302 / 272 418 214 queijosoalheira.com
Products available from the online store and at Soalheira Industrial Zone, 6005-300 Soalheira
CASTRO VERDE
TOURISM OFFICE
286 328 148
posto.turismo@cmcastroverde.pt
“PURPURA”
THE NEW AW25 COLLECTION
A spectrum reborn: from regal purples to tender mauves, flowing into the striking depth of petrol blue. The Purpura Collection embodies contrasts — soft yet strong, mysterious yet vivid.
NOW IN SHOPS
MAKING GREAT
BREATHING NEW LIFE AND SOUL INTO DERELICT BUILDINGS IS ARCHITECT ALEXANDRA CAETANO’S
PASSION, SO BEING ABLE TO TRANSFORM HER OWN HOME WAS AN ESPECIALLY REWARDING EXPERIENCE
Words: DEBBIE REYNOLDS Photography: EDGAR ANDRÉ
IN MY MANY meanders around old town Tavira, I was often drawn to the traditional “green house with red doors”, which at first seemed sadly neglected, but over time began to blossom.
I’m a sucker for historical buildings, so imagine my excitement at being invited to see behind the now sparkling façade of this landmark early 20th century home?
After knocking on one of those beautiful wood-carved red doors with its traditional cast-iron knocker, I was warmly greeted by homeowner Alexandra Caetano, who gave me the grand tour and a framework of the renovation project.
Her long-time passion
With a family who owned a real estate development company, bricks and mortar were Alexandra’s daily bread and the reason she decided to forge a path in the architectural world.
After graduating in Architecture from the University of Lisbon in 1987, she joined the family business which concentrated on new-build housing developments in Lisbon, the Algarve and Évora.
“But I always had my own personal studio in Lisbon with various works in architecture and scenography,” explains Alexandra. “I needed an outlet, because my father was a very strong man, and I felt I needed to retain my opinion.”
Sadly, the financial crisis in 2008 forced the company to close, but Alexandra opened a bigger studio (with a partner) where she could dedicate herself to her
real passion for renovating and rehabilitating old buildings.
“I obviously learned a lot from working with my father, especially about dealing with local municipalities, which is not always easy in Portugal,” she says. “It really helped me going forward and is one of the things I actually like doing.”
It was possibly why she wasn’t daunted having to apply for the necessary licences from the Tavira Câmara to renovate the old house she and her husband, Diogo, discovered in the centre of the old town.
“Diogo especially loves old things, so we came to Tavira during the first Coronavirus in 2020, saw this particular building and fell in love, even though it was in a very bad state,” says Alexandra. “We guessed it had been built in the early 20th century because of the Art Noveau architecture. Originally one house, it had been split into two units with a shop on the ground floor and it was in a terrible mess.”
The house still had its roof, flooring and tiles on the upper façade, so Alexandra was keen to keep it as close to the original as possible. But soon after work began, disaster struck.
“Once we started the rehabilitation work, the building almost collapsed because the structure was so badly
ABOUT ALEXANDRA
Alexandra has four children, twin boys (now 30) from a previous marriage and a daughter (28) and son (26) with her husband Diogo.
She wrote a novel, Nem amor faço às escuras, based on the theme of the “clinical coma” — living through memory.
She describes herself as “probably too energetic”, also loves painting and is planning a coffee-table book featuring “food, family and friends” in the setting of her Tavira home.
Her proudest achievement was transforming a familyowned palácio in Porto into the charming luxury Hotel Oneshot Cedofeita, which she describes as an “excellent teamwork effort between architecture and restoration by Empatia Studio (fresco painting and gilded carvings).”
damaged,” explains Alexandra. “Most of the wood throughout the house was crumbling like paper and the walls were not safe.”
The learning curve
They discovered that the house was built in the gaiola pombaline cage style, which was used after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, combining the rigidity of masonry with the flexibility of an internal wooden framework. “But, in this instance, they had used reeds instead of wood and everything was rotten,” says Alexandra. “We had to stop immediately and get the engineer to come very quickly. The only alternative was to keep the façade but remove everything from the inside and start again. It was a great pity to have to renovate rather than rehabilitate, but it was too far gone.”
Which meant Alexandra had to go back to the drawing board with new plans before the work could continue. “I had little time to stop and think, but I recognised that my best option was to make the interior modern. Trying to replicate the old interior would mean losing the soul of the house, so it was necessary to create a new soul.”
After a long three-year project, the work was completed in 2023, and there’s no doubt that the house on Travessa do Forno is full of soul.
The solution
While the exterior is true to its history, the materials are mostly all new. “Even the old tiles, which were traditional in Tavira and a reference of early 20th-century architecture, were very degraded,” says Alexandra. “So, I had new tiles manufactured exclusively for the renovation, recreating the style, pattern and colours of the region. The green tiles
Her advice to others? First be in love with the house so that the renovation is carried out with maximum commitment.
were made by Terracotta Algarve and the floral motifs –on the platibanda – by artist Maria Cristina Pina.”
The house is still divided into two units, with one comprising two bedrooms, two bathrooms, an open-plan living area with a kitchen and a courtyard. Stairs from the patio lead to the second unit which also has an open plan living and kitchen area, three bedrooms, four bathrooms, an attic and roof terrace.
Alexandra has cleverly used the space so that it flows while tall windows let in soft light. “I made the ceilings higher, but still did them the traditional way with wooden rafters and wherever possible I’ve used traditional local materials, like the Santa Catarina tiles in the entrance and courtyard and Brecha de Tavira stone in the kitchens.”
The calming, cool white canvas of the interior and the earthy colours of the furnishings allow for pops of colour which give the house its local identity. For instance, the guest bathroom in the main house is “Portugal blue” and Alexandra has added notes of bold colours and then, of course, those red doors, which were crafted by a local carpenter to match the originals.
She is quick to explain that she doesn’t professionally do interior decorating, much preferring to work on the construction side. “But when it’s something personal like my own home, then I’ll do it for me.”
Doing it her way
With most of the furniture from Lisbon and decor from Tavira and the Algarve, there is one outstanding anomaly which is the three wall hangings in the main living area which come from Australia.
“I went to an exhibition in Lisbon and fell in love with the beautiful hand-printed fabrics from the Babbarra Centre in
Australia, which is a completely indigenous textile studio,” explains Alexandra. “I was originally going to do a focus wall with a large photograph, but when I saw this unique art, I took the risk and commissioned three pieces. The long wait and local taxes were worth it!”
Another statement piece is her wooden dining table which easily adapts from an eight-seater into a twelve-seater, since two of Alexandra’s many passions are cooking and entertaining. “We live in Lisbon, but use the Tavira house for holidays, so I love entertaining here where I’ve got more time to spend shopping at the market and preparing meals.”
She says while she likes minimalistic architecture, it’s important for a house to be functional. “You need to feel the spirit of the house and feel good in it. For this home, it needed to be cosy and welcoming. I like the clean look, but then the minute you put something down, the house looks messy.”
Advice to others
Her advice to anyone thinking of renovating an old house is first to be in love with the house so that the renovation is carried out with maximum commitment. “Then choose an architect with whom you feel empathy – someone who knows how to listen, who understands the ethics of renovation and functionality of spaces, and with whom you must clearly communicate what you want for the house to be rehabilitated. You must also respect the geography where the house is located, its history, and the palette of materials that should be applied in the renovation.”
Also important, she says, is to have a good, strong team working with you, who understand your vision. “For example, in the Tavira house I used builders from Lisbon who actually lived here while the renovation was happening, but I used local service providers like the plumber and electrician.”
She says making a home – be it permanent or a holiday home – is about integrating into the community and respecting where you are.
As we stand on her rooftop overlooking the River Gilão and old town Tavira with its pyramid-shaped tiled roofs, traditional chimneys and charming mix of Moorish and Portuguese influences, Alexandra tells me how she sat under the stars listening to the band in the Praça the night before. “Summers in our Tavira home are perfect – the dream come true.”
IN PORTUGAL, A COUNTRY STEEPED IN WINE HERITAGE, KOSHER WINES REMAIN A NICHE WITHIN A NICHE –BUT ONE THAT IS GROWING IN QUALITY, IDENTITY, AND AMBITION. AS A WINE WRITER IMMERSED IN THE TERROIRS OF PORTUGAL, I’VE BEEN STRUCK BY HOW THESE WINES OFFER A TRULY UNIQUE EXPRESSION OF PORTUGUESE TRADITION THROUGH A PARTICULAR LENS
Words: LÍVIA MOKRI
A quiet renaissance in Iberian winemaking
FOR MANY wine lovers, the term kosher wine may still evoke images of syrupy sweet reds from decades past. But much like the global wine world itself, kosher winemaking has undergone a quiet transformation, shedding outdated stereotypes and reemerging with renewed vitality and craftsmanship.
To qualify as kosher, wine must be made with kosher-certified equipment and handled only by Shabbat-observant Jews from crush to bottling. Only kosher-certified fining agents, yeasts, and additives may be used. If the wine is to be consumed in non-observant or mixed settings – restaurants, events, etc – it must also be ‘Mevushal’, meaning it has been flash-pasteurized at high temperatures to maintain its status.
Though these rules may sound restrictive, they don’t limit wine quality. Some of the world’s top producers in
France, Israel, the US and now Portugal are crafting expressive, terroir-driven kosher wines with no compromise on finesse.
Portugal enters the market
Portugal is not the first country that comes to mind when discussing kosher wine, but that’s changing. With its millenniaold winemaking tradition, a vast array of indigenous grape varieties, and favourable climate, Portugal is uniquely positioned to offer kosher wines that are both authentic and of high quality.
The resurgence of kosher wine production here reflects a growing awareness of Portugal’s Jewish heritage and the evolving needs of the global Jewish community.
After centuries of silence following the expulsion of Jews during the Inquisition, Portugal has reembraced its Sephardic roots, and wine is a natural extension of that cultural rediscovery.
Portuguese kosher wines may not yet be
produced in great volumes, but their quality, authenticity, and connection to heritage make them deeply compelling. For the observant wine lover, they offer an opportunity to explore Portugal’s extraordinary viticultural landscape while staying true to tradition. For all wine lovers, regardless of religion, these wines are proof that kosher winemaking can meet – and even exceed – the standards of modern excellence.
As Portugal continues to open its doors to the world and its Jewish history continues to be rediscovered, these wines stand as both a spiritual and sensory testament to resilience, craftsmanship, and renewal.
Kosher wines are currently being produced in several regions, notably Castelo Rodrigo (Beira Interior), Lisboa/ Estremadura, and more recently, the Douro Valley, Portugal’s most prestigious winemaking region.
Let’s explore some of these wines and producers.
CASTELO RODRIGO KOSHER TINTO
Mevushal from Beira Interior
Located in the rugged highlands of Beira Interior wine region, near the Spanish border, Adega de Castelo Rodrigo was the first Portuguese winery to commit to kosher production fully. Their flagship wine, Castelo Rodrigo Kosher Tinto Mevushal, is a powerful yet approachable red made from a blend of traditional Portuguese grapes like Tinta Roriz, Rufete, Marufo and Touriga Franca.
In the glass, this wine presents a deep ruby hue, accompanied by aromas of ripe black cherries, dried figs, and baking spices. On the palate, it’s medium bodied, with supple tannins, fresh acidity, and a touch of smoky earth. Notes of plum, leather, and cracked pepper lead into a clean, mineral finish. It’s an ideal match for grilled lamb or mushroom risotto and is also certified kosher for Passover.
Produced by Sociedade Agrícola Félix Rocha, this kosher wine hails from the Lisboa (formerly Estremadura) region, an area known for its cooler Atlantic influence and clay-limestone soils. This Félix Rocha Kosher red offers a glimpse into traditional winemaking with kosher sensibility. The wine is soft and round with aromas of ripe red fruits, dried herbs, and vanilla. It leans toward a New World style, with generous fruit but retains balance through a hint of saline minerality. Velvety tannins and moderate oak ageing make it versatile with food, especially roast chicken or Sephardic-style casseroles. creative-gourmet.com/ products/vinho-tinto-kosherfelix-rocha
GODIN KOSHER DOURO TINTO & BRANCO FROM DOURO
Kosher wine has made its mark in the Douro Valley, home to Port wine and some of the world’s most dramatic vineyard landscapes. The Godin Kosher Douro line includes both red (Tinto) and white (Branco) wines that are fully kosher-certified and available within Portugal.
Tasting note (Tinto): Made from classic Douro grapes like Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Barroca, this red is bold and structured. It shows blackcurrant, eucalyptus, and crushed granite aromas. On the palate, dark berry fruit meets fine tannins and a savoury finish, echoing the schist-laced soils of the region. portoreccuavinhos.com/ VisualizarProduto.aspx?uuid_ produto=86a01401d597-4706-9206e082bc21aa8f&lang=2
Tasting note (Branco): The white expression is fresh and floral, made from indigenous white grapes such as Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Viosinho, Rabigato and Fernão Pires. Expect aromas of white peach, lemon zest, and hints of almond. Lively acidity gives the wine lift, making it a perfect pairing for Mediterranean fish dishes or creamy cheeses. portoreccuavinhos.com/ VisualizarProduto.aspx?uuid_ produto=160d8feb-133e-45468110-6d383f7ab6d4&lang=2
PRINCESA RESERVA KOSHER FROM DOURO
Perhaps the most refined of Portugal’s kosher offerings, Quinta da Corte’s Princesa Reserva is a Douro red that combines serious winemaking with kosher integrity. Aged in French oak, this wine was crafted under strict rabbinical supervision while preserving the estate’s dedication to terroir expression.
Elegant and layered, this wine exudes aromas of black cherry, violets, tobacco, and cedar. On the palate, it is full-bodied and complex, with finely integrated oak, structured tannins, and a long, mineral-driven finish. It’s the kind of wine that pairs beautifully with brisket, wild game, or aged cheese, and can easily age another five to eight years.
Though still limited, there are also a few kosher-certified Port wines emerging from producers such as Quevedo and Quinta da Trovisca. These range from Ruby Ports to aged Tawnies, and bring Portugal’s iconic fortified wine tradition into the kosher fold.
Tasting Note – Quinta da Trovisca
Ruby Kosher Port: Vibrant and juicy with intense notes of red fruits such as strawberry, raspberry, and redcurrant. Ripe and round tannins with pure fruity nuances reminiscent of strawberry and blackberry. Sweet but balanced wine by acidity. This Port makes a lovely dessert pairing with chocolate, figs, or blue cheese.
República 14 is a non-profit Cultural Association founded in 2017 in the heart of Olhão, built around one of the city’s most emblematic buildings. Open to both the local and international community — residents and visitors alike — the association promotes culture through a diverse and regular programme. Music, Visual Arts, Performing Arts and Open-Air Cinema are among the main areas of focus, complemented by a wide range of activities and workshops.
República 14 hosts weekly Concerts, as well as Portuguese Classes for Foreigners, Yoga, Pilates, Qi Qong, Choir, Poetry Sessions, and many other activities. In addition, the space regularly features a Local Products Market (every Wednesday), as well as a Swap Market (monthly) and Vinyl Fair (every two months).
República 14 also features a welcoming bar, open from Tuesday to Sunday, where visitors can enjoy a selection of drinks and delicious tapas. It’s the perfect spot to relax before or after concerts, workshops, or markets, or just to soak in the vibrant, creative atmosphere of the space.
Av. da República 14, Olhão
Foot notes
TIME TO GET INTO TRAINING – OR AT LEAST THE LATEST LOOKS. AS EUROPE’S SECOND LARGEST PRODUCER OF SHOES, WITH ROUGHLY 85 MILLION PAIRS CHURNED OUT EVERY YEAR, PORTUGAL ’ S TRAINER BUSINESS IS ONLY SET TO KEEP EXPANDING YEAR ON YEAR. EMPLOYING CARBON NEUTRAL PRODUCTION AND THE LATEST RECYCLING TECHNIQUES WHERE POSSIBLE, THESE BRANDS WILL STAY ONE STEP AHEAD
Words: LAURA SHEA
ASPORTUGUESAS
asportuguesas.shoes/
This innovative brand began by making cork flip flops, and have now expanded their range to include sandals, high tops and trainers. They are focused on being eco-friendly, using sustainable materials and having a negative carbon footprint emission thanks to their production methods. They also use local workers who have the knowledge on how to harvest cork traditionally, which means that no tree ever has to be cut down or damaged. These ‘round-toe trainers’, Cure2 Cognac, are €99.99
CONTAGIOUS
contagiousshoes.com/
Think bold colours, flashes of animal print and chunky soles, you will have so much fun with this brand. A favourite is the Areia leather trainer in electric blue for €119. But we love the Sky sneaker in rose gold, €99, which offers a slightly more subtle look.
DIVERGE diverge-sneakers.com/
One for the true trainer connoisseur, this brand offers a cracking range of styles, but also allows you to design your own pair, that is then custom-made in the workshop. Two weeks and you’ve got your bespoke number. For an eye-catching ready-to-go model, check out the V9 Colour Mix in Sky for €210
SHOEVENIR
shoevenirworld.com/
This brand helps you hang on to those precious memories of Portugal long after you have left with a collection inspired by the country of its creation. Head straight for style Algarve, €139, with its dreamy waves of ocean blue and soft golden sand.
NAE VEGAN SHOES
nae-vegan.com/
Standing for No Animal Exploitation, this company does not use any products for their shoes that could impact or harm animals. They focus on natural, sustainable ingredients to create a range of stylish yet kind footwear – recycled tennis balls and bamboo feature. The Berlin in red is €125
CLEENS
cleens.co.uk/
Affordable luxury UK trainers brand Cleens manufactures its big collection here in Portugal, where the production is top notch. The Aero Runner, €228.95, in monochrome, is the brand’s current number one best seller.
hirundo.pt
Another company focused on reducing its carbon footprint and lessening the environmental impact that the fashion industry has on our planet is Hirundo. Handmade in Portugal, these trainers offer comfort and fun, with colourful soles to match your moods and outfits. The Brinjal is €159.
VEJA
veja-store.com
Since 2005, VEJA has been creating sneakers for men, women and kids in a different way, mixing social projects, economic justice, and ecological materials. Produced in high-standard factories in Brazil and Portugal VEJA uses Brazilian and Peruvian organic cotton for the canvas and laces, Amazonian rubber for the soles, and various innovative materials made from recycled plastic bottles or recycled polyester. Campo, with the signature V design highlight in bronze, is €140
ZOURI zouri-shoes.com/
Focused on producing an ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly product, Zouri uses plastic waste items found along the coastline mixed with natural products like rubber and pineapple leaves to create these vegan trainers. This is a collection that you can feel good about wearing – this year, Zouri has removed one ton of plastic from the Portuguese beaches. If you're into the retro look, you’ll love the high-top Agaricia, €69
Also from Zouri is Eunicea Nature, a classic and stylish basic tennis shoe, with that all-important sole. Worth knowning is that one Eunicea upcycles no less than six bottles of plastic from the ocean. €110
Luxury Villa Vilamoura
This exceptional villa has fabulous views over the Pinhal Golf course in the renowned resort of Vilamoura, which is part of the ‘Golden Triangle’ and has grown to be a cosmopolitan centre, with exclusive shops, cafes, restaurants, nightlife and, a worldclass marina. Vilamoura has purpose-made walking, running and cycling paths through green landscaped gardens, much used by residents and locals.
The villa has 5 bedrooms and is on two levels plus an underground garage and storage area. Two security gates make this villa very private. The interior architecture features stunning regional stone ceilings throughout and the general feel is bright and airy. An outdoor pool completes the villa whichis on a plot of 1211 m2, and has a construction area of 595 m2.
HOSTING RESIDÊNCIA
FROM LISBON TO THE SOUTH, A JOURNEY OF CULINARY DISCOVERY HAS INVOLVED KEY NAMES RECOGNISED FOR THEIR CREATIVE BRAVADO IN BRINGING OUT THE BEST IN LOCAL PRODUCE. LAST MONTH, THE RESID Ê NCIA TEAM, WITH AUSTA IN ALMANCIL, CREATED MEMORABLE TREASURES
Words: EMMA AND DAVID CAMPUS, CO-FOUNDERS OF AUSTA
HEN WE FIRST arrived in Portugal in March 2020, the idea of opening a restaurant was nowhere on the horizon. Having quit our jobs to leave London six months earlier and travel the world, our adventures were cut short by the impending pandemic – we arrived here deflated, defeated and confused about what our path should be next.
What kept us going, however, was a deep hunger to explore our new-found surrounding, using our penchant for eating and drinking as a way of understanding a new culture. One of our earliest memories is dining at Feitoria in Lisbon, the Michelinstarred restaurant led by João Rodrigues, one of Portugal’s most renowned chefs, where his spotlight shone brightly on the best national ingredients, Portugal’s intricate cuisine, its producers and gastronomic heritage.
With just two or three tables in the dining room and no tourists in sight, the experience was intimate, alive, and what we didn’t quite realise at the time, would be the very first in a series of catalysts to spur on the inception of our own project here in the Algarve. There at our table, we showed innocent curiosity, and, with more time than usual, the team invited us into the kitchen, where João not only shared his craft but also spoke with warmth about his favourite traditional Lisbon eateries – those places where history and hospitality are served together, where one could begin to grasp the depth of the city’s gastronomic traditions. It was a note scribbled on the back of a menu that guided us further on our journey.
A full circle moment
Fast forward to last month, four and a half years later, to 6 September 2025, when, after much plotting and planning, João was about to step into our very own kitchen at austa; to cook alongside our very own founding head chef, David Barata, and Karime López – the first ever Mexican woman to win a Michelin star, and the head chef of Massimo Bottura’s Gucci Osteria in Florence – and to create a nine-course dinner that celebrated the Algarve: its ingredients, its gastronomic history, tales of tradition re-imagined and unfolding bite by bite.
This momentous occasion came as part of the third edition of João’s travelling kitchen, Residência, a project born from his Projecto Matéria, a non-profit platform founded with his deeply dedicated wife, Vania, which is centred around promoting Portugal’s diverse regions, their respectful agricultural practices and the grounded connection between producers and communities. After earlier chapters this year in the Alentejo and Lisbon, their decision to entrust us with co-hosting the Algarve edition felt deeply significant. Our first meeting had been as wide-eyed guests in his dining room, and now, all these years later, we would be welcoming him into our home at austa.
Residência – beyond the plate
Residência began in 2023 with a simple but powerful idea: each month, João and his band of chefs would travel to a different region of Portugal, introducing producers and their stories to his guests, learning about and understanding traditions, and preparing a weekend of feasting for these visitors who had travelled far to indulge in local, respectful ingredients. While filled with joy and merriment, these are not festivals in the usual sense, but platforms... acts of recognition.
Too often, regions like the Algarve are seen only through the lens of tourism, the interior ones hardly at all. Residência works differently: it goes beyond looking to listen first. It gives new life to fading knowledge, creates synergies and shares them with others who can help them thrive again.
João and Vania have become bridge-builders, not ‘saviours’ of these traditions, but people who hold them up to the light so that others can see their beauty through something we all love to do – eat!
A week of gastronomic exploration
In the week leading up to the Residência ‘feastival’ at austa, we began to grasp the true reach of their gastronomic torch as they brought together national and international journalists, chefs, photographers, and storytellers to guide us and them through the region’s producers and landscapes to walk a path of inspiration led by our regions’ ingredients. Over the following days, these discoveries would be shaped and transformed by the hands of each chef – João, Karime and David – and their highly skilled teams into the menu for Saturday.
We began at the very tip of the Algarve, bobbing off the wild and rugged coast of Sagres as we set out on tugboats with salty fishermen to witness maritime traditions that have shaped this coast for centuries.
These are not anonymous supply chains – but families, communities, and respected fishing co-operatives like Nutrifresco – led today by the passionate Pedro Bastos whose father started with a market stall in Quarteira and carried forward a legacy rooted in respect for the sea; species taken only at the height of their season’s prime, careful respect for quotas, and a deep
awareness of bycatch. They work alongside fishermen who are reviving ageold techniques, ensuring that the balance between sea and shore is not only preserved, but restored so that these waters may continue to sustain life for generations to come.
Further east in Olhão, we came face to face with a prime example of this conscious catch – a place where ancient ‘almodôvar’ methods of bluefin fishing are being revived, balancing respect for tradition with the needs of today. Swimming alongside them as they were guided carefully into the nets, watching their muscular grace, we were struck by the enormity of this tradition. Most of these fish are exported to Japan, but thanks to the dedication of local producers, some remain here in the Algarve where the chefs would proudly bring them to our guests at austa that weekend.
In between visiting the salt pans of Castro Marim with passionate florde-sal producer and pan-master Jorge Raido, and sinking into big juicy Algarvian figs at Quinta do Figueiral, one of our most poignant visits was to the Lagoa Co-operative, a place that once produced ten million bottles of Algarvian wine a year made from grapes brought in by the vast network of grape growers across the region.
Its humongous, heaving walls of warehouses and caverns now crumbled, gargantuan tanks left empty, barrels the size of buildings broken to kindling as, over the years, the once abundant vineyards that surrounded it were sold with the advance of tourism. A recent deal struck with a property developer will now see the tragic demolition of this piece of history, and so we were gathered there with team Residência to host the last-ever tasting, a bittersweet reminder of what has been lost and why projects like João and Vania’s matter so deeply.
Now to the stove
Inspired by these stories, we hurried back to the restaurant as the culmination of the week began in preparations for Saturday’s dinner. The knives were out and stoves were lit as João, Karime and David, and their teams came together to craft a multi-hands menu that was at once rooted and inventive, playful and reverent, each dish carrying the signature of its chef, and the soul of the Algarve.
An Algarvian feast
As 50 guests from around the world arrived, they sat down in our courtyard at austa, under the evening light, to taste Karime’s purple corn tostada inspired by her Mexican heritage, topped with succulent Carabineiro from Vila Real de Santo António – a bright bite that sang of the sea. David Barata followed with grass-fed lamb tartare from Quinta do Freixo, paired with Silvia’s Ria Formosa oysters and corn, a dish that married land and sea in a way that felt purely Algarve. João’s offer was a black pork terrine with Algarvian violet shrimp and fig, an earthy, rich plate lifted by the sweetness of the fruit.
Later, Barata’s dry-aged bluefin tuna with austa garden tomatoes and peppers brought our journey to Olhão back to the table. Karime’s pastita was next (an ode to Italy, her current residence at Gucci Osteria) with Algarvian cuttlefish roe and caviar, João’s greater amberjack with citrus meunière, and her John Dory from Sagres cooked ‘El Pastor’ with salsa verde and achiote – each dish a homage to the producers we had met that week.
David’s dessert closed the evening: black Euchária fig, fig leaf, and pennyroyal granita, a sweet, herbal tribute to the Algarve’s most iconic fruit. Wines from West to East – sparkling and blanc de noir from Cabrita and Morgado do Quintão in Lagoa, a ‘curtimenta’ orange wine from Monte da Casteleja in Lagos, and juicy whites and reds from Filipo Pozzi’s project on centennial vines in Aljezur, Atlasland – carried us through the evening, with mead from one of the region’s only organic honey producers in Moncarapacho, Tomás from Apiculture, marking a final, golden note.
Reflection for the future
All the while, we marvelled at our team as they stood shoulder-to-shoulder with these gastronomical giants, watching them all seamlessly work together in the kitchen and front-of-house. To think back to that night at Feitoria, when we first met João, and to stand here now, years later, cooking and creating together, was surreal – a humbling experience to imagine how far we had come and what we have accidentally but also, quietly intentionally created. A reminder that the Algarve is full of possibilities. Its traditions are not relics; they are living, breathing stories, and they deserve to be heard.
Through Residência and through the work of these incredible people and producers, we are proud to be a part of that story.
As the evening ended, conversation turned to the future. In the next months, Residência will travel to the Azores and Madeira, Portuguese islands with their own histories, producers, and traditions. Just as in the Alentejo, Lisbon, and now the Algarve, João, Vania and their collaborators will continue to listen, to taste, and to share. Let the next chapter commence…
Residência was hosted by Memmo Sagres + Ombria by Viceroy during their Algarvian adventures. Follow along and join in on Instagram – Residência: @residencia_joaorodrigues and austa: @austa_resta
Above: Left to right: David Barata, Karime López, João Rodrigues
Timeless elegance
WHEN A WOMAN KNOWN FOR HER EXEMPLARY TASTE AND APPRECIATION OF FINE FASHION FORMS A BUSINESS WITH HER DAUGHTER-IN-LAW, AN ESTABLISHED EXPERT IN THE LUXURY TEXTILES FIELD, THE RESULT IS A QUALITY-DRIVEN COLLECTION WITH A SPECIAL STORY
Words: JOANA SOUZA Photography: CHRISTOPH KOCH
ELKE MARIANNE GROOS, who moved to Portugal in 2022 from Cologne, Germany, is regarded as something of an expert when it comes to assessing trends. Her daughter-in-law, Öznur Stucken, arrived here from Istanbul in March of this year. With their shared passion for design, their knowledge of the industry and the possibilities that exist, and their impressive number of contacts in the fashion world, working together and developing a unique brand was a logical step. Their company, Leodoro, launches this month, with its own intimate boutique in Almancil. You will not find bold colours and over-stated pieces here; theirs is a look of quiet confidence, where skillful design is interwoven into beautiful silhouettes and the finest cashmere is centre-stage.
“I was looking here for luxury boutiques that offer the kind of apparel I personally like to wear and that provide you with a truly personal shopping experience,” says Elke. “They are hard to find on the Algarve.”
Öznur, who worked in the international textile industry for more than two decades, and later as a self-employed sourcing and buying agent, with a focus on luxurious fabrics, agrees. “Our ideal client would be a confident woman with life experience, who has a strong sense of style and appreciates timeless elegance, quality and the finer things in life. She
is the woman who has inspired Leodoro and will find our collection her perfect partner.”
“We are confident,” explains Elke, “that the ways in which you can combine individual pieces is something that sets us apart. Our cashmere collection is designed for effortless layering and everyday comfort. We aim to offer elegant, understated and simple clothes. Simple in the way that Oscar Wilde described his taste, when he said that he was always satisfied with “simply the best”. We would love to be seen as the best address for tasteful cashmere clothing items in the Golden Triangle, an exclusive boutique where one can be inspired and empowered in relaxed surroundings.”
What is particularly interesting about this new venture is that on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays the boutique will be closed to the general public and operate a one-to-one opportunity for clients who will be able to garner the best possible advice on their new wardrobe. “One key selling point,” says Öznur, “is that we are offering more than just elegant clothes with a heavy focus on cashmere. We are building a meeting place for real people, which will allow the brand to grow as part of an organic process tied to the direct feedback of our customers. We will never be a faceless corporation; we are a real presence in your neighbourhood.”
In addition to Leodoro’s superb cashmeres, there are pieces for men, and a beautiful leisure range in Modal, known for its wonderful softness.
TRACK RECORD
FOR THOSE WITH A KEEN INTEREST IN SPORTS, JOINING IN OR WATCHING ON, THE ALGARVE HAS MUCH TO OFFER AND MANY OF ITS FACILITIES ARE HOME TO INTERNATIONAL EVENTS THAT ATTRACT HUGE AUDIENCES FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE. WE ’ RE RACING TO GO
Words: LUCY MAYER
AMUST FOR petrol heads and particularly F1 fans, The Algarve International Circuit, also known as the Portimão Circuit, is a 4,653km race circuit located in Portimão. It’s home to the Portuguese Grand Prix and has been welcoming fans since it opened, during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, back in 2020. The inaugural race held on 25 October that year was the first one hosted at this venue, putting Portugal firmly back on the Formula 1 map.
The historic event saw Lewis Hamilton score his 92nd Grand Prix win breaking Michael Schumacher’s previous record for Formula One Grand Prix victories.
The International Circuit development includes a karting track as well as an off-road track, technology park, five-star hotel, sports complex and apartments.
For budding F1 drivers, there is the Kartódromo Internacional do Algarve which offers a series of programmes aimed at adults, children, amateurs and professionals. They come to the track to race for fun, for team-building sessions, or to prepare for official competitions. The CRG Rotax race karts are capable of reaching 125km/h, for
an “intense, challenging and unforgettable on-track experience.”
Alternatively, racing fans can head to the heart of Almancil where you’ll find Karting Algarve. This family-orientated race centre has been around since the early 90s and has been on the to-do list of many family holiday and children’s (and adult) birthday parties over the years. The large site has one main circuit, inaugurated and sponsored by Ayrton Senna da Silva, as well as a junior track especially for youngsters to hone their skills on. The go-karts are either 200cc or 400cc and there are also karts adapted especially for drivers with limited mobility. It’s the perfect pit-stop for visitors to the Algarve looking for something a little more energetic and fun to do.
TEAM SPIRIT
If football is your preferred sport, and let’s face it, football is big in Portugal, then you can’t miss a visit to the Estádio Algarve Nestled between Faro and Loulé, this 30,305-seat stadium is instantly recognisable thanks to its state-of-the-art design by Damon Lavelle of HOK Sport Venue Event.
The stadium cost around €38m to build and was created to serve as one of the playing venues of the Euro 2004 tournament. It officially opened on 23 November 2003 hosting a friendly match between local clubs SC Farense and Louletano DC. During Euro 2004, the stadium hosted two group matches as well as the quarter-final between Holland and Sweden (0-0).
The stadium was previously home to both Farense and Louletano, but the clubs ultimately decided to
play most of their matches at smaller venues, leaving Estádio Algarve open to hosting national matches and bigger events. It served as the home of the Gibraltar national team for four years from 2013 due to an issue with their own grounds.
The Algarve Stadium continues to be an important landmark in the region’s sporting and cultural panorama. Today, it not only stages football and rugby matches, but also hosts corporate meetings and events like the Algarve Trade Festival and the Algarve Summer Festival.
The sports venue, like many others around the world, is also big on music: International artists such as Lenny Kravitz and James Blunt have graced the stage here as well as Portuguese artists like ‘The Father of Portuguese Rock’, Rui Veloso.
OF COURSE
The Algarve is perhaps the ultimate destination for golf lovers in Europe. With that in mind, and miles and miles of picturesque courses to choose from, it was hard to pick just two to write about. But The Old Course at Vilamoura stands out.
Recognised as one of Portugal’s leading courses in the Algarve, it was designed by the renowned Frank Pennink and opened in 1969. It has evolved into a premier golfing destination, offering a challenging layout set against a backdrop of mature pine trees and rolling fairways. With its championship conditions and historic charm, club bosses say it’s the ultimate test for golfers seeking both beauty and challenge. The 4th hole is said to be the jewel in the crown; a stunning par-3 that stretches over 200 yards and demands precision and
This page, below, top left clockwise: The Algarve International Circuit near Portimão, home to the Portuguese Grand Prix; looking down on the stunning Old Course, Vilamoura; The Campus, in Quinta do Lago. Opposite page: Estádio Algarve, for football and special functions
strategy as you navigate over a water hazard to reach a well-guarded green.
Then there’s Laranjal at Quinta do Lago. A newer course which opened in 2009 and was voted Best Golf Course at the 2011 Portuguese Travel Awards. Named after the former orange grove it sits on, the par 72 championship course is situated 2km east of the resort, in the Ludo Valley.
Boasting spectacular fairways and well-defined greens, Laranjal is renowned for its five beautiful lakes, umbrella pines, cork-oaks and orange trees. At 6,480 metres in length, the challenging course demands the highest level of concentration and accuracy. Featuring five par 5s, eight par 4s and five par 3s, the course is sown with Bermuda grass on the fairways and Penn A4 on the greens, which ensures excellent putting surfaces throughout the year. Set ever so slightly inland, it’s a quieter, more secluded experience for those who like to take their time on the course.
WORK IT OUT
Head to Quinta do Lago in Central Algarve and you’ll come across The Campus, a state-of-the-art, multi-sports complex surrounded completely by the manicured roads, lawns and villas that QDL is famous for. The team there says its goal is to offer professional level training and coaching to all, whether you are a novice or already highly skilled in your chosen sport.
The club is a favourite of sports enthusiasts thanks to its location and reputation, and is used by world-class athletes (just this summer it was the training base for the British and Irish Lions much to the delight of the rugby fans who turned up every day to watch their heroes arrive and depart), as well as rising sports stars and families.
The Campus is unique because it is home to the Desso GrassMaster hybrid pitch – a high-tech pitch renowned for its playing consistency – and known to adhere to top international standards. There is also a high-performance gymnasium equipped with the latest in sports technology designed to meet the needs and demands of professional athletes.
If you want to go off Campus, there are for-hire mountain bikes and as the beach and its cycle-friendly boardwalk are nearby, there’s a ready-made scenic route just waiting for you to enjoy. There is also a pool, multiple work-out classes, personal trainers and sports physicians on hand for support. Far from being intimidating when you walk in, The Campus is open to everyone who wants to not only train hard but have real fun doing it.
WATERWAYS
In the beautiful, peaceful village of Alte, above Boliqueime, there is a natural landmark loved by wild swimmers far and wide called the Praia Fluvial de
Featuring five par 5s, eight par 4s and five par 3s, the Larangal course is sown with Bermuda grass on the fairways and Penn A4 on the greens.
Originally known as the Roger Taylor Tennis Centre, today’s Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy has hosted key championships, attracting big names over the decades. If you want time out to relax, and watch, the Centre has some great facilities including a bar and restaurant
Alte. The stunning freshwater river is renowned for its crystal-clear water and tranquil, lush greenery surrounding it. It is frequented by those seeking a refreshing dip or a bask in the sun on the banks beside them. It’s a real inland treat and great for visitors who may not be beach fans. The gentle and calm spot is also not only great for wild swimming, but because of its scenic trails nearby, it’s become a hit with hikers and walkers.
GET SET
In the early 2000s, Vale do Lobo was the hotspot for tennis tournaments and in 2002 hosted two events: the International Tennis Federation US$10,000 Vale do Lobo women’s tournament in February, and the ITF Veterans Open in October. It was followed in 2003 by a Grand Champions event which saw the like of John McEnroe, (we’re being serious) and Bjorn Borg take part. The hub for budding players has long been the Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy.
Fresh from a refurb, it has a long connection with the sport having opened in 1980 as the Roger Taylor Tennis Centre, before expanding to become the Academy in the 2000s, featuring 13 courts and padel facilities. Today, it offers year-round coaching, tournaments, social play, and new padel courts to reflect the sport’s growing popularity. With eight hard courts (four of them floodlit) and four floodlit artificial clay courts, the Tennis Academy prides itself on being one of the largest in Portugal. There’s also a swimming pool, gym, work-out classes, a pro shop, a bar and a restaurant.
For the youngsters regularly spotted taking advantage of the coaching on offer, the VDL Tennis Academy is a great introduction to the sport, and you may want to keep your eyes peeled; some of these young players could just find themselves on Wimbledon Centre Court in the not-too-distant future. Check AlgarvePlus’s Agenda pages to check out coaching initiatives.
WELLNESS
Viceroy at Ombria Algarve is one of the newer resorts on the Algarve. Nestled amid rolling green hills among citrus groves and fig trees, one of its biggest draws is its spa. Spread over three floors, it boasts 2,000m² of carefully designed intimate spaces to deliver an all-year-round experience focusing on the needs of the mind and body – which we now understand is just as important for our health as physical exercise.
Viceroy’s fitness centre goes hand in hand with the spa – one is designed to energize your body ahead of your day, while the other is there to clear your mind and relax you as the day comes to a close. There is a large emphasis on organic ingredients and a holistic approach to wellness, and Viceroy has also partnered with The Class – a music-driven somatic practice founded by Taryn Toomey – to offer a series of exclusive in-room video wellness rituals designed to help you reconnect with your body, mind, and spirit. Each ritual begins with breathwork and presence, then flows into rhythmic movements, and traditional exercises. The team at Viceroy says sound release offers space for emotional expression and is also a great basis for deep rest and integration.
VENEZA, Paderne
ON A cloudy Sunday, the first in September, as if on beat, the Algarve finally decided to cool its heels. After months of relentless, fry-your-socks-off heat, a gentler breeze rolled in. Perfect weather to cozy up, sip some seriously good wine, and tuck into some proper countryside cooking.
spun as we squabbled over what to open first. In the end, we popped the cork on a Filipa Pato Nossa Solera Espumante, a sparkling from the daughter of Portugal’s grandfather of biodynamic wine, Luis Pato. It danced between nutty brioche notes and crisp citrus – a bubbly herald of the feast to come.
WHERE DO YOU TAKE YOUR VISITING FAMILY WHO UNDERSTAND AND APPRECIATE GOOD FOOD AND FINE WINES? DAVID CAMPUS OF AUSTA HEADED UP TO THE HILLS TO TREAT THEM TO EXCEPTIONAL SLOWCOOKED CUISINE WITH A SPECIAL – AND DELICIOUS – PORTUGUESE CHARACTER. VENEZA IS THE PERFECT SETTING FOOD Authentic Portuguese flavours from fine, local ingredients
My parents had flown in from London, both self-confessed wine nerds, so naturally I dragged them into the hills, up to Restaurante Veneza in Paderne, one of the Algarve’s not-so-best-kept secrets that proudly boasts 1 Sol Guia Repsol, a tiny endorsement for our Sunday plans.
Upon entering, the night closing in, we were greeted by endless walls of bottles and a good half-hour exploring Veneza’s garrafeira before we even sat down. Rows of bottles stacked like edible architecture –over 4,000 references. Our heads
After devouring the menu, plates began to arrive – imagine what you dream of when someone utters ‘countryside fare.’
We started by nibbling our way through a selection of rustic countryside cheeses, some hailing from the sun-soaked hills of the Algarve – creamy, slightly tangy, with that golden, buttery richness only Portugal’s pastures can give – and others from the legendary mountains of Serra da Estrela, where the sheep’s milk produces a bold, nutty, melt-in-your-mouth intensity that makes you want to linger over every bite.
Next, game sausage, smoky, hearty, and utterly satisfying –the edible equivalent of a warm
DECOR
Rustic tables, cosy light, and banks of carefully-chosen wines in racks around the room
PRICE
Allow €30+ a head, plus wines
hug. Paired with a Casa do Canto 3 Barricas 2018 white from the Northern Bairrada region, creamy with vanilla and citrus notes, providing a cheeky, refreshing foil to the richer flavours.
A rabbit stew followed, slowcooked and aromatic, comforting and tender. Next in our glasses, a Douro legend, Niepoort Merlot 2012 from Quinta de Baixo, deep and earthy, hugging the rabbit and pork like an old friend while letting the dish’s rustic charm shine. By the time the pork cheek appeared, tender and rich, we were fully committed.
Of course, no classic Portuguese meal would be complete without a proper sweet finish. At Veneza, we ended the feast exactly as it should be: a rich, silky chocolate mousse followed by a perfectly caramelised leite creme, the Portuguese cousin of crème brûlée, with its golden, crackling sugar top and luxuriously creamy interior. It was the kind of finale that makes you lean back, sigh contentedly and pat your tummy while slightly tinged with guilt from overindulgence, in the best way possible.
The evening had that rare combination of being effortlessly simple, yet endlessly exciting. We waddled out into the night air tinged with the first scent of autumn, replete from our feasting and ready to snooze it all off.
CHRISTOPHER CORR
WHEN ARTIST AND ILLUSTRATOR CHRISTOPHER CORR GRADUATED FROM LONDON’S ROYAL ACADEMY OF ART HE EMBARKED UPON AN ITINERANT CAREER. NOW HIS REMARKABLE WORK IS BEING EXHIBITED FOR THE FIRST TIME IN PORTUGAL AND CAN BE SEEN AT GALERIA CÔRTE-REAL IN PADERNE
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
HIGHLY MOTIVATED and with a distinctive style, it was during his earliest years that Christopher Corr travelled widely throughout India and China. Together with a writer, they produced a hugely atmospheric book recording a visual and written record of places that changed the perspectives of their lives. These journeys formed sections of two BBC documentary programmes at a time when India and China were still regarded as exotic destinations.
Commercial success was not bound to follow, but the need to travel and commit every stimulus to paper drove Christopher on to become a celebrated artist. His characteristic approach to reproducing atmosphere, architecture and people make his work stand out.
Even today he always sets out early in
the morning with a few pencils and two sketch books to hand, keeping a scrap book for collecting ephemeral details such as tickets, napkins, paper bags. When creating a painting he might refer to them and his sketch pads at a later date.
Increasingly, as his paintings gained a following of collectors, invitations to exhibit and commissions began to step up. Uniquely, he painted a view of Parliament Hill Fields to be exhibited in Washington DC, looking across London from the bottom to the top.
For a new major assignment, promoting the natural qualities of wool, he created a frieze in the style of the Bayeux Tapestry. Featuring sheep in a wide range of surroundings he replicated the scenery so successfully that his paintings highlighted the adaptability of the species. What is more, who would have thought that sheep from around the world could have such varied and compelling personalities?
Likewise, Christopher’s illustrations for numerous children’s books are of lovable creatures. There are memorable images of the enchanted horse and 15 pale giraffes stalking across the African plains! Look out for the smiling dappled piebald and her foal at Côrte-Real exhibition.
In amongst all of this activity he has created paintings, posters and prints for Quantas airways, London Transport, the National Aids Trust, Body Shop, Habitat, UNICEF, the Royal Mail and a dozen oneman shows. Examples selected by London’s Berkley Square Gallery cover his travelogue – In Flight, En-Route, New Delhi to New York, and Thinking about Japan.
Over the years many prizes, awards and scholarships from worthy organisations have validated the pleasure that his pictures bring. The current and eclectic collection of original paintings displayed at Côrte-Real Paderne must be seen to be completely enjoyed.
Cured sea bass / herb labneh / tomato seeds
CHEF JOÃO SOUSA OF VILA VITA PARC ’ S ATLANTICO RESTAURANT HIGHLIGHTS
THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE OCEAN AND THE SEA, BETWEEN WEST AND EAST,
SHOWCASING AN ABUNDANT ARRAY OF FRESH VEGETABLES, SEAFOOD, CITRUS FRUITS, GRAINS AND HERBS. THE RECIPE HERE IS A STUNNER
SERVES 4 PREPARATION TIME: 1H30 DIFFICULTY: MEDIUM
1 Strain the yogurt for 8 hours and refrigerate. Wash and prepare the fresh herbs. Blend the strained yogurt with the olive oil, citrus zest and juices, honey, za’atar, and herbs until a smooth, silky green cream is achieved. Keep chilled until use.
CURED SEA BASS
2 Combine the salt, sugar, lemon zest, and seeds. Spread half of this cure mixture in a tray, place the fillets on top, and cover with the remainder. Allow to cure for 30 minutes.
3 Rinse under cold water, pat dry, and refrigerate. Slice finely into elegant strips.
PICKLED RED ONION
5 Pour the hot liquid over the onion. Once cooled, cover and refrigerate.
CHILLIES
6 Slice into delicate rings and remove the seeds. Store in chilled water to soften the heat.
CRISPY TOMATO SEEDS
7 Quarter the tomatoes and gently scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Dress with a drizzle of olive oil and fleur de sel. Spread evenly on parchment paper and dry slowly in a preheated oven at 800C for around four hours, without ventilation, until crisp.
PLATING
8 Spread a base of herb labneh in the centre of the plate using the back of a spoon. Season the cured sea bass strips lightly with olive oil and a touch of lemon juice, arranging them gracefully on top.
9 Garnish with pickled red onion, fresh coriander leaves, chilli rings, and the delicate crunch of tomato seeds. Finish with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. RECIPE of
½ green chilli
4 Peel and slice the onion finely, placing it in a glass jar or bowl. In a saucepan, bring the vinegar, wine, sugar, and star anise to a gentle boil.
ATLANTICO RESTAURANT / Vila Vita Parc, Rua Anneliese Pohl, Alporchinos 8400-450 Porches / T: 282 310 100
OPEN: Dinner, Saturday to Wednesday: 19h00–22h30
SCULPTURES
ART COMES IN ALL FORMS. AND MATERIALS. AND COLOURS. PORTUGUESE ARTIST JOÃO BRUNO VIDEIRA EMBRACES HIS LOVE FOR WOOL AND BRIGHT HUES WITH THE ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY THAT MAKING TRADITION FUN AND CONTEMPORARY IS KEEPING IT ALIVE
Words: SANDRA GATO
IN WO L
IT IS A MATTER of seconds before you fall in love with João Bruno Videira’s work. The pieces he creates come in many shapes and sizes, you are dazzled with the creative thinking. And they are soft (mostly made of wool and burel) but solid at the same time. You feel you want to touch them, sit on them, lay on them... You want to take them home with you (some you can) because they make you smile and remind you of nature...
AlgarvePlus: How do you describe your art?
João Bruno Videira: My work is a crossover between art, design and crafts. It’s a fusion. I mainly work with Arraiolos wool, a material deeply rooted in the Portuguese tradition, but I try to give it a contemporary approach exploring new forms, scales and interactions with space. My pieces can be sculptures, objects or installations, always carrying memories with them.
AP: But, as an artist, do you identify yourself with a specific style?
JBV: I include my work in the contemporary visual arts spectrum, I would call it post-modern. The modern school advocated the form-function principle – the beauty of the piece was a direct result of its functionality. I believe that in my work, form goes way beyond its utility. There is an aesthetic, poetic and symbolic dimension that transcends function and gives the object different layers of interpretation and experience. I bring together contemporary craft and textile sculpture, putting ancient techniques in a new context – the manual work with Arraiolos wool is a good example – and giving them a formal and conceptual updated vocabulary. I do have a clear intention of exploring the potential of the textile beyond its utilitarian purpose, turning it into visual and sensorial
One day I took a chair and realising that I could create something with my hands, it was one of the most memorable moments of my life!
experimental territory. In that sense, each piece is, at the same time, form, cultural memory and dialogue between past and present.
AP: Which are your chosen materials and how did you find them?
JBV: Arraiolos wool is the conductive wire of my work. The connection comes from my childhood, through my mother’s influence, but it was only when I grew up that I realised that it was my calling. Wool is always the basis, being it the Arraiolos thread or burel, a traditional woven cloth from Serra da Estrela region, used just by themselves or applied to other materials such as wood, iron or cork. My work is an open field, a constant dialogue between nature and culture, tradition and innovation.
AP: Can you please guide us through the creative process of one your pieces, from the concept to the final object?
JBV: It all begins with an image or a feeling – it can be a place, the geometry of a structure, a beautiful building, a memory, something in nature. In fact, it always is a mental image that, very clearly, comes to my mind. Sometimes it turns into a sketch but usually it all happens during execution. I allow my interaction with the material to lead me to new solutions. The first and most relevant step is the colour selection. After that is done, it is a manual, hands-on job, with lots of figuring out along the way. Thread by thread, an intensive game is played by me, the materials and time. It is a slow and immersive process, almost like meditation.
AP: Is there a colour/model/shape that speaks more loudly to you?
JBV: I am a big fan of bold colours and I am not afraid to use them! I do it as often as possible and that is one of the reasons people like and recognise my work. I don’t have a favourite colour, the palette choice is always determined by the piece’s life story. I essentially work by order so I make sure the client is involved
in the process, namely by electing the colour pattern. I work for my client, not for me. In terms of shapes, I am obsessed with cubes. In fact, I already developted a series of pieces around this specific geometric figure.
AP: How has your artistic path been so far? Where and how did art come into your life? What else would you consider doing for a living besides art?
JBV: Art came into my life almost by accident – it was never a big dream of mine! However, I grew up surrounded by wool because my mother loves Arraiolos tapestry. I chose journalism and communication for a living – my big dream since I was a child – but I quickly found out that it didn’t make me happy and that I needed a way to express myself fully.
And then it happened! One day I took a chair and recognised that I could give it a new life. Realising that I could create something with my hands was one of the most memorable moments of my life! I just could not turn my back to this ‘calling’ so becoming a full time artist was a natural decision for me. If I was not an artist now, I would maybe consider architecture...
AP: How important to you are events such as Lisbon Design Week and Paris Design Week?
JBV: They are essential platforms to showcase my work to different audiences and connect with other designers and artists. Lisbon Design Week is a great opportunity to deepen connections in Portugal. Paris Design Week opens doors to an international network and global awareness.
AP: What was your criterion when choosing the pieces for those events?
JBV: For Lisbon Design Week, the
idea was to create an immersive installation where people could pause and symbolically return to nature. For Paris, Nini Andrade Silva, a renowned Portuguese designer, and her team did the curation under the theme Remade in Portugal Naturally.
AP: You have some of your pieces on permanent display at Museu dos Biscainhos in Braga. How did that come about?
JBV: I was asked for an idea that would promote the dialogue between the historic noble room of the museum and the contemporary materiality of the wool. So I did a set of sculpted elements in burel whose forms, in different scales and sizes, remind us of stones and pebbles, creating a feeling where sturdiness and softness live in harmony.
Inspired in the Portuguese textile tradition, my installation underlines the relationship between nature and culture, and offers the visitors a sensorial and contemplative experience. My pieces are like stones that come up along the way to make one stop and think for a while. They are an invitation to slow down, to seat or lie down and admire the beautiful paintings of the room’s ceiling.
AP: One last question: what are you working on at the moment?
JBV: Besides orders, that I always have, I am preparing an exhibition in Madrid that will open in December. For Portugal, I am devising another exhibition called A Natureza da Lã (Wool’s Nature) that dwells into textile art, nature and human impact. And I am also developing another project: a video that brings together craftsmanship and dance.
instagram.com/joaobrunovideira/
Animal Welfare
CACROSS MAINLAND PORTUGAL, THE SCALE OF THE STRAY ANIMAL ISSUE IS STAGGERING. A NATIONAL CENSUS CONDUCTED IN 2023 BY THE ICNF AND UNIVERSITY OF AVEIRO ESTIMATES THERE ARE OVER 930,000 ROAMING ANIMALS, INCLUDING SOME 101,000 DOGS AND 830,500 CATS. AMIDST THESE CHALLENGES, CADELA CARLOTA IS A FORCE FOR CHANGE IN LAGOS
ADELA CARLOTA has become well known and respected in the community. Its work focuses on rescuing and protecting dogs and cats, but they explained that prevention is as important as rescue. “One of our most significant contributions has been sterilisation, particularly of Colony cats, which is crucial to controlling the stray animal population. We work closely with the local community to make sure this continues,” they report.
Sterilisation may not draw attention in the same way rescues do, but it is the foundation for long-term change. By reducing overpopulation, fewer animals end up abandoned and more can be rehomed successfully.
Adoption is another area where the charity has seen progress. Each year, many animals pass through their care before finding homes. The organisation stressed that every adoption represents more than just one animal’s story. It also reflects the community’s willingness to embrace a different relationship with animals.
When I asked about the role of volunteers, Cadela Carlota explained: “We simply could not do what we do without our volunteers.” With around 80 dogs in one shelter and another shelter with 60 cats in their care, the daily routines are complex and demanding. Feeding, cleaning, exercising, and providing medical attention require constant effort, and volunteers are essential to keeping everything running smoothly. For example, volunteers can walk the dogs up to four times a week. This helps prevent them from experiencing prolonged periods of anxiety.
Just as important is the impact that volunteering has on the volunteers themselves. “So many people tell us that giving their time here changes them,” they say. Taking a dog for its first calm walk or watching a shy cat accept affection for the first time often leaves a lasting impression. The work is practical and
sometimes demanding, but it brings satisfaction that few other activities can match. “It’s not only about helping the animals. It gives people a sense of purpose, community, and connection. Volunteers often build friendships here –with each other as well as with the animals,” they explain.
Running such an organisation is not without challenges, as demands are constant for food, veterinary supplies, and shelter maintenance. To address this, the organisation has dedicated staff team at both shelters, responsible for daily care and essential operations. They also run two charity shops, which help generate additional income to support their mission, have established agreements with the Municipal Councils of Lagos and Vila do Bispo, and every year they apply for targeted funding through the State Budget.
Local veterinarians, businesses, and schools have become key partners. Educational initiatives in schools, for example, have introduced young people to ideas of responsibility and compassion toward animals. The results are visible every day in Lagos. The streets no longer carry the same signs of neglect that once defined them. As Cadela Carlota puts it: “That difference is the clearest evidence of our work. It is not coincidence. It is the outcome of years of planning, action, and community partnership.”
Over time, Cadela Carlota has become woven into the fabric of Lagos. Their work has changed not just the number of animals on the streets but the way the community thinks about animal welfare.
“The progress we’ve made shows what is possible when people come together,” they told me. “It’s proof that change is possible through persistence and collective effort.”
For those who would like to support this ongoing work – whether through volunteering or financial contributions – Cadela Carlota welcomes your involvement. More information is available at: cadela-carlota.com
Words: ELISABETH LEONARD
GREAT BOOKS
WE SAID “ START OF NEW SERIES ” , AND HERE WE ARE WITH MORE FROM OUR REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS AND PARTNERS WHO CAN ’ T WAIT TO SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE READS, AND ENOUGH ON FILE –INCLUDING FROM READERS – TO SEE US INTO WINTER MONTHS. KEEP THEM COMING IN, OLD TREASURES AND NEW GEMS
GILLIAN CATTO RECOMMENDS... MIDDLEMARCH 1871/1872
By George Eliot
Published by Penguin Classics
A brief résumé of this great oeuvre. Once you have committed yourself to this book, there is no going back. The writing, and the intellect, are without doubt breathtaking.
Middlemarch is a richly layered novel set in the fictional town of Middlemarch, during the early 1830s, a period of political reform and social change in England. It intertwines multiple storylines, looking at marriage, ambition, idealism and the constraints of provincial life.
The leading lady is Dorothea Brooke, an intelligent and idealistic young woman who marries the scholarly unattractive and emotionally cold Edward Casaubon, hoping to find intellectual and moral fulfillment. Her disappointment mirrors the broader theme of unfulfilled aspirations. Alongside her story runs that of Tertius Lydgate, an ambitious young doctor determined to change the face of medical practice, whose career is undermined by debt, social politics and a bad marriage to the beautiful Rosamond Vincy.
Eliot’s narrative pictures the web of relationships in a small town, showing how personal choices are shaped and affected by societal pressures, economic realities and human flaws. The novel stands out for its psychological depth and moral complexity; Eliot portrays her characters with empathy, accepting their limitations without judgement.
Middlemarch has often been hailed as one of the greatest novels in the English language. I am not knowledgeable enough to comment on whether this is correct. However, it is the greatest novel I have read.
OF CIVILITY
DEBBIE REYNOLDS SUGGESTS... RULES
by Amor Towles
Published by Penguin Random House
Introduced to the author by friends during a recent visit to the English countryside, my first dive into Amor Towles’ extraordinary writing was his 2016 novel A Gentleman in Moscow, which has since been turned into a TV series starring Ewan McGregor.
I loved this book, so it was a surprise to be even more enraptured with Towles’ debut novel Rules of Civility. I was enchanted from the very first chapter where we meet socialite Katey Kontent at the opening of a New York photographic exhibition in 1966. A photograph of a face on the subway catapults her back to the grueling 1930s where a 16-year-old Katey sets out to negotiate the Great Depression.
From her paltry boardinghouse room, scraping nickels together for a night on the town, to gatecrashing theatres and working in a soulless legal secretarial pool, Katey navigates a journey which puts her centre-stage in the glamorous, and nuanced, social circles of New York.
It’s a story about social climbing, burning ambition and the American Dream, but most of all it’s a love story, or rather, a ‘love letter’ to New York and the fascinating characters who inhabited the city in the 1930s.
I’m not sorry I missed this whimsical and thoughtfully crafted New York Times bestseller when it was published in 2011, because reading it now, with more time on my side, it was all the more poignant.
STUART ROYAL ENJOYED...
THEO OF GOLDEN
By Allen Levi
Published by Allen Levi
After our second trip to Portugal, one to the Algarve and another to Lisbon and areas to the north, I knew my wife and I were hooked on this interesting country and culture.
I have just finished the book Theo of Golden, and felt I had returned. It is a luminous tale that lingers in the heart. At its centre is Theo, a Portuguese soul who moves to Georgia, USA. This southeastern setting in the USA is where my family and I live. Theo's story is steeped in his homeland – the sea winds, the tiled streets, the fado spirit that drifts through every page. Portugal is not just a backdrop but the story's essence, shaping Theo’s search for meaning with its blend of joy and sadness. Chapters revolve around drawings Theo buys to give back to the subjects of the art. One is of a child embodying happiness, most are of adults who move through life carrying their quiet aches. Between them lies Theo’s journey, reminding us that life’s rich fabric is found in the small and passing things: a gesture, a glance, a moment of sunlight. The reminder is that such gifts ask for no reward.
In weaving together Portugal’s beauty with universal questions of joy, grace and sorrow, Theo of Golden becomes more than a story. This novel is an invitation to live with tenderness, to notice, and to recognize how today reflects our walk throughout our life. Twists in the characters only add to the interest of the novel. It demands its reading and I highly recommend.
ELISABETH LEONARD IS IMPRESSED WITH... BROKEN COUNTRY
By Clare Leslie Hall
Published by John
Murray
I don’t usually follow celebrity book-club picks, but a wish to read outside my norm led me to Reese Witherspoon’s selection, Broken Country. I listened on audio –fortunately, I have the habit of reading the first chapter and then the last three pages before I commit my time – because Hall’s story benefits from momentum. Though not marketed as a mystery, the novel braids secrets across past and present: a farmer’s wife who once loved a rich man; a child’s death disclosed obliquely; a trial that gathers force until it takes centre stage. As the timeline toggles, Hall lets motives
surface in small, humane increments. The triangle between the farmer, his wife, and her former boyfriend sharpens, as do bonds with the farmer’s brother and father. On paper that scaffolding might sound familiar, but the execution isn’t. Hall’s sentences are clean and lack heavy-handed sentimentality, and her characters – flawed and tender –resist easy judgment. They feel like people you might know and root for, even when you’re unsure they deserve rescue. The audio narrator catches marrow-deep sorrow and the flickers of hope that keep everyone moving. Broken Country is less about plot twists than it is about love and surviving tragedy.
CAROLYN KAIN IS IMMERSED IN... A LITTLE LIFE
By Hanya Yanagihara
Published by Picador
When compared to any of the characters in the book, the title can only refer to the life led by the reader. Yanagihara’s individuals that we encounter are profound and thought-provoking, all of them living far from little lives.
Beautifully written, it is probably the most powerful piece of fiction I have ever read. Currently out on loan to a friend, both my bookshelf and I feel lost without it. After reading it the first time and despite its enormous length I almost immediately had to read it again.
Mostly set in New York City, Jude is an enigma. Intellectually gifted, charismatic and handsome, we follow his meteoric rise as a lawyer and his ability to cultivate friendships never allowing people to grow too close. Simultaneously, with the use of flash back scenes, a shocking childhood of mental and physical cruelty is revealed.
Those who live alongside him throughout his adult life watch helplessly as a pattern of low self-esteem and self abuse fail to respond to treatment. His lover, his adoptive parents, his closest friends, his doctors, his psychiatrists and the readers of his story long for his recovery.
Even Yanagihara, when writing about the book, acknowledges that this journey took on an unmanageable path that she as the author could not control. It is a remarkable piece of writing as the final chapters waywardly travel along in their own inevitable direction.
Hanya Yanagihara’s A Little Life was shortlisted for the 2015 Man Booker Prize and the National Book Awards.
For Coffee Lovers
Discover bean17 in Loulé Market! Savour house-roasted Speciality Coffees like espresso or cappuccino, indulge in organic kombucha, and treat yourself to heavenly homemade cakes. Take the magic home with freshly-roasted organic Arabica beans from Peru and Ethiopia. Craving more? There are healthy breakfasts, light lunches, and a curated selection of premium products, including Portuguese olive oil, flor de sal, and more. Come for the coffee, stay for the joy!
Off road riding through the Ria Formosa Forest
Training from beginners to experienced riders wishing to prepare for competition, horse ownership or exams
Riding gear included in the prices.
It had to be
OLIVE TREES, PAPERWORK, AND POSSIBILITY. REGULAR CONTRIBUTOR, SALLY DIXON, SHARES HER STORY OF BUILDING A NEW LIFE IN PORTUGAL. AND THIS IS JUST THE FIRST CHAPTER – HER STORY CONTINUES IN OUR NOVEMBER ISSUE, AS DO THE BUILDING WORKS
Words: SALLY DIXON
’VE BEEN coming to Portugal since before I was born. Yes, you read that right. The old Kodak images and blurry Super 8 cine films I found in the loft at my mum’s house are proof that I’ve been holidaying in Portugal since I was in the womb. I think that’s why I have an indescribable connection with the country. Something about it feels like home to me, like a warm embrace that you never want to let go of.
My earliest memories are of staying at a rented villa called (appropriately) Quinta da Saudade, the place of many happy memories with family and friends. The scent of sardines grilled at dusk, the puppies that were born in the garage (much to my four-year-old self’s delight and my mother’s abject panic that they would give me rabies), the pops of Bougainvillea everywhere.
I fondly remember being friends with a little Portuguese girl called Marta. We didn’t speak the same language, but it didn’t matter. Those carefree days in the sunshine, swimming in the kidney-shaped pool (which I might have drowned in one day were it not for my dad jumping in fully clothed to rescue me from being face down), and exploring the local towns, beaches, and village markets. Pure heaven.
From big city
Then came life, London life. Thirty fast, glittering, exhausting years, interspersed with frequent trips to the barefoot freedom of Portugal and the familiarity of my dad’s house in Almancil. London is a city that can thrill you and fray you in the very same moment. And yet, through the London chatter, Portugal always whispered to me. Slowly but surely, the pull of living the Portuguese way of life got too loud for me to ignore.
Two years ago, I set my sights on my Portuguese dream. A place in the countryside, a slower pace of life, a vegetable garden and an olive tree or two outside. So far, so cliché. The classic move from former fashion editor city gal to something akin to Barbara from The Good Life. A move that both excited me and scared the living daylights out of me. So, I did a thing. I put my place in London up for sale and I bought a ruin in the Portuguese countryside. Let me just say, it takes me ages to decide to do something.
I’m not a natural risk-taker; I procrastinate like a pro. I lived in my London home for 23 years! But when I finally say yes to something, it’s with my whole heart, I’m all in. The reality is that I’ve been all in for the past two years and the ruin is still a ruin. Who knew the UK property market would tank so much that it would take me two years just to sell my London comfort zone.
As I write this, it’s two days post-exchange on London. I’ve been catapulted firmly out of my comfort zone. My London chapter is imminently closing, and the Portuguese dream is no longer just a dream. Still excited, still scared as hell. I’m already fully aware of how much I’m going to have to unlearn my London ways of getting stuff done yesterday, while I’m at the mercy of Portuguese paperwork. It’s taken several months alone just to get the size of the ruin and its plot updated at the cadastro.
Digging in
So, how did I find my little ruin? Let’s just say it was part instinct, part madness. I’m very much a see it, get a good vibe from it, buy it, kind of girl. I trust my instinct when other people think I’ve lost my mind to take on such a project. My place in London was empty and rundown when I took it on, but the vibes were vibing (as the kids say) and I ended up renovating it and staying for far too long! It’s a one-off and it’s been my peace and calm in the storm of London; I will cry buckets when I leave.
Back to the Portuguese ruin. In 2022, I trawled the usual property websites, including Green Acres. I made a couple of trips out to view places, most of them ruins (I have a thing about derelict buildings), but one of them had my instinct saying: ‘this is the one’.
Quinta das Oliveiras (house of the olive trees) –the name alone had me thinking this is the one! She was unloved, but the magic was undeniable.
As I stepped onto the land that is now ‘my ruin’ I knew this was the real ‘one’. It was perfectly imperfect and had the potential to be beautiful.
Set on a hillside with a lovely view and surrounded by nature. I went back to see her several times before putting in my offer.
She had some cracks and looked a little worse for wear (don’t we all) and so I sought the opinion of builders as to whether she could be fixed. The fact that Portugal is prone to seismic movement was playing on my mind (luckily, I’m a born worrier, too). There was some debate as to whether she’d have to be razed to the ground, and if this was even permissible. It seemed like hard work, but I was willing to persevere.
One day, during the lengthy negotiations (and this is where I’m fully aware I sound totally nuts) I said out loud to no one in particular: “If this house isn’t right for me, give me a sign”. Two days later the estate agent called me to tell me that part of the garden had collapsed into the property below. The universe was firmly shaking its head at me. That was my sign, and time to say goodbye to the house of the olive trees. I often wonder if anyone has decided to take her on and show her some love.
Finding ‘the one’
Fast forward to March 2023. Someone sent me a property email of an old restaurant building that was up for sale as a home. It looked incredible and I booked a flight out to view it within days. It was gorgeous but it wasn’t the one. As I was already flying out, I booked a couple of other places to view on a whim that I’d found on Green Acres.
As I stepped onto the land that is now ‘my ruin’ I knew this was the real ‘one’. It was perfectly imperfect. She would need a lot of work, but she had the potential to be beautiful. I booked to view again two days later and then put in my offer. She’d not been on the market for long so I was hopeful I would be in with a chance. After an anxious wait contacting all the heirs (something I’ve learnt is common in Portugal property sales), and plenty of worrying and overthinking, to my delight my offer was accepted. But that wouldn’t be the end of it. I would lose her only a few short weeks later.
FARMHOUSE IN SÃO BRÁS DE ALPORTEL PROPOSED RESTORATION & EXTENSION
Recognising the potential and examining how to turn the negative into a real positive. The first draft plans, above, are from Eduardo Demony, Arquitecto. Have questions about your own property? Call him on 914 017 925 or email eduardo.demony@gmail.com
Mediterranean Gardening Association of Portugal
Annual Autumn Plant Fair
Fatacil, Lagoa
18–19 October 2025, 10h00–17h00
Entrance €1 Children free
Plant créche, hot meals, bar services and plentiful free car parking.
MGAP stand with Mediterranean bulbs for sale, plants from members’ gardens, new and second hand books on gardening and free advice.
PARTICIPANTS
Bjorn Richardsen, robust home grown garden plants.
Caminhos Sombreados, Benoit & Ann Clairbois, Lagoa Selection of native, Mediterranean plants, trees and shrubs as well as container plants.
Carbon Conscious Creations, Vetiver, bio-char and permaculture advice.
José Lima, large range of fruit trees for the Algarve.
Marca ADL, Èvora – native trees and shrubs.
Marian Vanneste, robust garden plants, some natives, succulents.
Plantas de Zé, range of succulents, some in containers.
Terra do Milho, 20 varieties of Salvias – NEW for 2025.
Felco tools, free maintenance and advice with tool sales.
Garden statues and ornaments, including Green Man plaques & Stargazy Hare, Jardim Stone Creations –NEW for 2025.
Organic produce stands – fresh produce, honey, olive oil, soaps, soil and compost treatments, micro-greens, etc.
Bio Planting Calendars for herbs, medicinal plants and vegetables in several languages.
Sementes de Portugal, native plant seeds.
Botanical art, cards and prints from various local artists.
Classic woodworker using olive wood for bowls, kitchen tools, etc.
Local basket maker with range of sizes and shapes.
Algarve Herbs and Spices – tea, tisanes and culinary herb mixtures.
TALKS
Fernanda Botelha on edible trees.
Jessica Gomes on how to get rid of your lawn.
Jorge Freixial on garden-worthy Bromeliads.
Joanna on Bokashi Composting.
Tom Stobbelaar on Salvias for the garden.
HAIR ARTIST
WHEELER DEALER
LAST MONTH ’ S FEATURE ON VELOPOD PULLED IN A HUGE RESPONSE FROM READERS WANTING TO KNOW MORE. SO WE ASKED LUIZ MOREIRA, CYCLIST AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE INITIATIVE, TO SHARE HIS KNOWLEDGE AND ADVICE
CYCLING IN the Algarve has never been as popular. Data from Turismo do Algarve and INE (Instituto Nacional de Estatística) shows that bicycle touring has been growing exponentially, aligned with a 10% increase in the numbers of guests in April this year, compared to the same month in 2024. From local Algarvios looking for healthier lifestyles, to tourists hopping on two wheels to discover the beautiful landscapes in the South of Portugal, there is something for everyone. Also worth mentioning is the fact that Portugal is Europe’s biggest bicycle manufacturer and one of the top producers globally.
A long-established shop in Almancil, Martins E-Bike, has seen a huge increase in sales. They believe this growth isn’t just a trend but rather a change in how people are choosing to explore and get around here. Making the most of our incredible weather and
what this region has to offer on two wheels is now on the radar of many. Are you ready to begin your own cycling journey?
GETTING STARTED
First of all, you need a bike, obviously. Making choices can be quite overwhelming due to the vast range of options available –some people get so excited they become collectors (me included, a proud owner of four). But no need to worry, let’s start simple...
The roads and terrain in the Algarve can be quite varied, ranging from neat and tidy – think Quinta do Lago – to technical, off-road trails like those around Loulé and São Brás.
If you’re comfortable riding with cars around you, and enjoy higher speeds, then a road bike is the way to go. Mountain bikes are the best choice if you prefer trails, enjoy nature and a more relaxed, easier pace. And if you fancy something more versatile, go for a gravel bike; it will give you the best of both worlds, especially if you are not sure what your favourite terrain will be.
Recommended brands and my favourites are the famous Canyon (excellent value and design, but only sold online); Cannondale (tradition and reliability); Canada’s Argon 18 and Cervélo (both of which make exceptional triathlon bikes). Then there is the not-so-well-known Van Rysel from Decathlon (look for entry base models, which will help you save some cash. Besides, you can always upgrade parts in the future).
SIZE RIGHT
Once you do find something interesting, be sure to choose the correct frame size – the wrong one could be extremely uncomfortable, and can cause injuries. Usually, bike shops will ask for your height and inseam (leg length) to recommend the best option. If still in doubt, visit the manufacturer’s website for fitting suggestions, and contact them direct with any questions. Many shops have some bicycles in stock that you can test ride – ask and you might be in luck!
But frame size is just a piece of the puzzle. For you to enjoy your new ride at the fullest, I would recommend doing a bike fit. Done by professionals (watch out for certifications like Retül or IBFI when doing your research), they take a close look at how your body adapts to the bicycle, and will make adjustments to ensure your goals are met – performance, comfort, etc. These can go anywhere from recommending better saddles and pedals to adding cycling shoes insoles or replacing parts like stems and handlebars. Believe me, there is a lot you can do with your bike depending on what you’re looking for.
KIDS TALK
For youngsters there are many interesting options out there to get the little ones excited. Very popular are balance bikes, which don’t come with pedals and teach the balance and steer skills they need to master. Famous brands include Early Rider (UK)
and Specialized. There’s also another product I love, and it is the recipient of the prestigious Red Dot Design Award. It’s called Infento, and with its modular structure, kids can build some incredible things. A plus for starting early is that young riders can begin to familiarise themselves with traffic signals and road etiquette.
ELECTRIC OR NOT... THAT IS THE QUESTION
I will be quite direct here. I love exercising. That feeling of a good workout, and the rewards it comes with, it’s just fantastic. So, a leg powered bike would be my first choice. Always.
But I must admit that E-Bikes are getting cooler. And lighter. And with longer range. All of that makes me excited about new possibilities and the fact it can get more people on the bike.
By the way, being able to replace cars when commuting or exploring your city on two wheels is quite a thing, too. You reap different rewards, contribute to the environment, and help foment the development of local cycling infrastructure and businesses.
If your goal is to be more active, and exercising or getting fitter is a priority for you, go the traditional route. Now, if you’re not quite there with your fitness, perhaps have limited mobility and exploring and enjoying the views are your priority, then an E-bike is definitely a good choice. So, which one to start with?
Kasia, from Martins E-Bike, has a top recommendation for a beginner looking for a reliable and comfortable ride: the Riese & Müller Nevo4 Vario. It’s a premium bike, and with its Bosch Performance Line motor and a battery neatly integrated into the frame, it won’t disappoint. Expect rides of up to 100km without recharging!
The team at Martins E-Bike in Almancil, on Av. Duarte Pacheco 48, are happy to help your decision-making process.
Canyon Grand Canyon Cervelo P Series
ESSENTIAL EXTRAS –FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
Having been involved in at least three serious cycling accidents, I can’t stress enough how important it is to wear a helmet. If there’s anything you should not save money on, this is it. Look for reputable brands like Specialized, Lazer, Kask and Giro.
One technology (and a very important safety feature) I always look for is called MIPS. It basically protects your brain in a very specific way, reducing rotational forces. Bear in mind that good helmets also have different sizes, so choose the right one. Most of the times, the one-size-fits-all solution is not the best. And because materials tend to deteriorate helmets have an expiry date, and will need replacing over time.
The second most recommended accessory is cycling glasses. They will not only protect your eyes from the sun, but most importantly, from debris, bugs, and any other naughty stuff that might end up in your eyes when you’re riding behind cars and other riders or descending at high speeds.
Safety items covered? Perfect. Now on to looking good (and comfortable) on the bike. Cycling apparel is quite trendy now, with lots of cool brands, so it’s an exciting time. Look for comfortable shorts with a nice padding (I prefer bib shorts) and a jersey. I love Rapha, MAAP, Assos, Pas Normal Studios, and again Van Rysel from Decathlon. Gloves are also important, they can really protect your hands in case of a fall and add extra grip to the handlebar, which are a must even more to mountain bikers.
Then there are pedals. I would recommend that beginners try the regular, classic flat pedals, later on migrating to hybrid ones. The so-called clipless pedals such as Look, SPD’s and Time require some adjustment and might not be that straightforward for those without earlier cycling experience. They are definitely an amazing piece of equipment, and I suggest that first you master some basic skills and learn how to handle your bike in different situations (cornering, sudden stops, climbing, etc) so that you adapt to the new pedals without too much overthinking. As for shoes, I love Specialized, they’re well known for comfort, great fit and performance.
ALONE OR WITH A GROUP?
Now that you have the bike, and the basic equipment sorted, you need to get started. So where and how? The ‘where’ should be a place that feels safe and familiar to you. I would avoid signing up straight away
Carvelo R5
Riese & Muller Nevo4 Vario
Specialized HotWalk
Van Rysel Gravel GCR
for a Gran Fondo (road bike events of over 120km) or anything that might feel daunting for a beginner. Sometimes it takes a while to build confidence, and I am a believer in the 'think big but start small' ethos. Perhaps get to know your neighbourhood on your bike, join a friend who is already a cyclist or even hire a cycling coach to help you with valuable tips and speed up the learning process.
Another common route is joining a cycling club. Yep, it can be terrifying seeing those cyclists breezing past you at over 30kph, but let me assure you something: they weren’t always that fast and it took patience, dedication and repetition to get there.
Finding the right group is essential. Not every club or group will be the best fit. You might have to try a few (many of them offer introductory or guest rides) before you find one that makes you feel like home. When living in Vancouver, Canada, it took me more than one year and a couple of different rides on different clubs before finally finding my place at the Gastown Cycling Club. And once I did, it was pure joy. You make new friends, improve your fitness, learn new cycling skills and discover a lot of interesting places!
Another place to find groups is on a platform called Strava. You can see where people ride, find clubs, connect with local cyclists, and more. Velopod.cc will also add clubs and groups soon, so be sure to follow us on Instagram for updates!
Finding a good mechanic and a bike shop you trust is essential in keeping your rides (or most of them) worry free.
INSURANCE AND MAINTENANCE
Do you need insurance? Well, the short answer is it depends on where you live. I would not say having bike insurance in the Algarve is a must, and as along as you keep your bike close while having that coffee and pastel de nata, and use proper locks when you’re away, it should be enough. Look for U-locks, which offer higher security and reliability.
I personally don’t have insurance on any of my bikes, but used to when I lived in London and then Vancouver – two hot stops for bicycle theft, and spending a little extra can be justified especially if your bike is worth a few thousand euros.
Just like cars and motorbikes, bicycles need maintenance. Finding a good mechanic and bike shop you trust is essential in keeping your rides (or most of them) worry free. They will make sure the bike is in good condition and that braking, shifting and other important parts are performing as they should. This is even so more important in coastal cities, since the salt from the ocean breeze will accelerate the oxidation of the metal and create rust, potentially affecting your ride. The rest will be up to you, from remembering to grease the components occasionally for smooth gear change to carrying a puncture proof kit.
FROM US TO YOU
Looking for information online and talking to people you trust is key. That’s where Velopod comes in. We’ve curated many different cycling businesses and professionals and made the information easily available for you. Check out velopod.cc – we’re always adding more content. And if you still need help with something, drop me an email via the website. If I don’t know the right answer I’ll ask someone who does.
East Rider Bonsai
Victoria Prcours 5
IN OCTOBER, AFTER THE MERCILESS DROUGHT OF SUMMER, THERE ARE CLOUDS IN THE SKY AND THE PROMISE OF RAIN, AND FOR US ENTHUSIASTIC GARDENERS IT IS A TIME TO TAKE ANOTHER LOOK AT OUR SPACES AND DECIDE WHAT NEEDS TO BE PLANTED OR REPLACED
Words: BURFORD HURRY
forward planning
THIS MONTH is when we should visit local plant fairs and nurseries and do some retail therapy for ourselves and our garden. Better still, we should take the time to attend the MGAP (Mediterranean Garden Association of Portugal) event in Fatacil, staged in Lagoa on the 18th and 19th, which could provide the answer to all our gardening prayers. Good news? Right, let’s get started. What plants should we have on our list? I have a few names based on what I have seen growing in and around Loulé over the years.
Of course, your list will be different from mine. Whatever is decided, it would be wise to ask ourselves whether or not the plant will be happy in her new situation with regard to soil and light. Will her leafy or prickly neighbours be accommodating or in competition? Will she have space to grow?
If we have a new garden, perhaps top of our list should be which trees to buy – after all they can be planted and encouraged to grow while the rest of the garden is being established. How about Tipu trees (Tipuana tipu)? They grow well here. They are tall and leafy umbrellas of trees with lovely yellow flowers. They have been planted by local câmaras for years in parks and parking areas. There are shady groves of them outside the tribunal in Loulé.
For a perfumed evergreen tree, consider the Australian
frangipani (Hymenosporum flavum) with its clusters of fragrant yellow flowers in spring. Then there are European hackberries (Celtis australis), which are deciduous locals that grow really big and leafy and are used to line the streets in Loulé. A very lovely solid-looking oak tree with glossy dark green leaves with a silver backing is the Mount Tabor oak (Quercus ithaburensis). Italian cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens Stricta) fit the bill for quiet grace and slim, bottle green elegance. If you are looking for large trees for drama and quirky autumn beauty, think about the Silk Floss tree (Ceiba speciosa), or for scarlet fire in summer get a Flame tee (Brachychiton Acerifolius)
For shrubs and trubs (shrubs that have pretensions to be trees) we have an interesting list. Topping our choice should be the myrtles, both large (Myrtus communis) and dwarf (Myrtus communis compacta).They grow effortlessly in our dry heat, are covered in small white flowers in June and always look lovely.
Other locals worth considering are the pistacias – Pistacia lentiscus and Pistacia terebinthus, the low growing Prostrate Canary clover (Dorycnium pentaphyllum), and shrubby Mediterranean buckthorn (Rhamnus alaternus) and glossy Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo).
Looking for something different? Drought hardy Silvercassia (Senna artemisioides) has a silver grey cloud of fine leaves with tiny yellow flowers in early summer. A summer flowerer with a profusion of mauve spikes is the Chaste tree (Vitex agnus castus). Loved by bees, she can be trimmed into a trub or left as a bush.
A check list of plants
TREES
Albizia julibrissin summer chocolate
Bauhinia x blakeana
Celtis australis
Chamaerops humilis
Cupressus sempervirens (Stricta)
Hymenosporum flavum
Jacaranda mimosifolia
Morus nigra or alba
Pinus halepensis
Pistacia atlantica
Pyrus bourgaeana
Quercus ithaburensis
Schinus terebinthifolia
Tetraclinis articulata
SHRUBS AND TRUBS
Abelia x grandiflora
Arbutus unedo
Coronilla valentina
Cotoneaster franchetii
Cotoneaster horizontalis
Dorycnium pentaphyllum
Elaeagnus ebbingei
Phillyrea angustifolia
Pistacia lentiscus
Pistacia terebinthus
Prunus spinosa
Psidium guajava
Rhamnus alaternus
Rhaphiolepis umbellata Minor
Senna artemisioides
Teucrium fruticans
Vitex agnus castus
HERBACEOUS
Ajania pacifica
Centranthus rube
Cistus various varieties
Cistus x skanbergii
Eriocephlaus Africanus
Epilobium canum
Gaura / Oenothera lindheimeri
Lavandula multifida
Origanum majorana
Phlomis purpurea
Phlomis russeliana
Salvia canariensis
Salvia clevelendii
Salvia rosmarinus
Santolina rosmarinifolia
Thymus camphoratus
Thymus mastichina
CLIMBERS AND SPRAWLERS
Campsis radicansis summer flowering
Clematis cirrhosa spring flowering
Clematis flammula summer flowering
Podranea ricasoliana summer flowering
Rosa banksiae spring flowering
BULBS AND RHIZOMES
Agapanthus white, blue and miniature
Amaryllis belladonna
Freesia
Irises Spanish and bearded
Scilla peruviana
Sparaxis
Tulbaghia violacea
For information about the MGAP fair in Lagoa this month, see page 100.
Page 74: Hibiscus syriacus; page 75: top left, clockwise: Campsis radicansis; Rosa banksiae; Myrtus communis. This page, top: Celtis australis; above: Arbutus unedo. Opposite page, from the 2024 MGAP event
The Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) with large, five-petalled blooms and a range of colours is a very tough attractive trub. A much lower growing plant is the Indian Hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis umbellata Minor). She is a lovely hardy shrub with delicate blossoms and berries and handsome, glossy leathery leaves.
There are lots of interesting herbaceous plants to grow between our shrubs and below our trees. We all know rosemary, both the upright (Salvia rosmarinus) and the ground cover (S. prostratus) and remember the way her foliage changes overnight from khaki to emerald with a shower of rain. Magical. Her cousins are equally impressive. Blue sage (S. Clevelandii) from California with her fragrant grey foliage and whorls of blue flowers and tall impressive Canary Island sage (S. Canariensis) with her large silver leaves and varying shades of dramatic purple flowers are worth putting on the list.
I have a soft spot for the Cape Snow bush (Eriocephalus africanus) with her low growing form and grey leaves. It’s very hardy and aromatic too.
While we are about it, we might also want to think of a couple of climbers and sprawlers. What about a yellow bansksia rose (Rosa banksiae), thornless and profuse and extremely hardy to cascade over a garden wall? Or that exuberant pink trumpet flowering vine (Podranea ricasoliana) which needs space and once started is unstoppable, or a robust brick red trumpet (Campsis radicansis).
A lovely way to start the growing season is to plant bulbs. Wisely they flower in autumn and use our rains to complete the next season’s growing cycle. So let’s add freesia, Spanish irises, Naked Lady (Amaryllis belladonna) and Portuguese squill (Scilla peruviana) to our list. Many of these bulbs can be found at the MGAP stand, and if not check the supermarkets for them. With our list completed we are ready to buy. The temptation will be to buy large plants – after all we want immediate results. But my advice would be to buy sensibly small for all kinds of reasons. Planted young, the plant will gradually become accustomed to her position. As she grows up, her roots will go down to secure and feed her and the coordination between leaves and roots will ensure that she will be firmly rooted so there will be no need for stakes. Large leafy plants look good in nurseries but they may not have the roots to ensure their stature, continued growth and health in our gardens.
BY PAULA MARIE KENNY
THE CLIENT SAID:
“Designworks brought fresh ideas, clear communication and an eye for colour that made our packaging stand out. Despite our low budget they created a clever, curved label design that not only looked great but more importantly attracts sales. Proof that simplicity, when done well, works.”
The power of pausing
WE’VE COVERED A FAIR FEW FITNESS AND EXERCISE TOPICS OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS, EVERYTHING FROM TENNIS AND PADEL TO WEIGHT TRAINING AND RUCKING. THE MANTRA “MOVEMENT IS MEDICINE” HAS BECOME A PRO-AGEING SOCIAL MEDIA STAPLE. BUT THERE ’ S MORE TO WELLBEING...
Words:
SALLY DIXON
FROM HIIT training to ultimate step goals, we’re constantly told that movement is the key to health, longevity and a strong, fit body. And while movement is essential, it’s only a portion of the equation when it comes to healthy ageing. The thing that is often overlooked, and undervalued, is recovery.
As important as movement, recovery is where the magic happens. It’s during the moments of rest that our bodies rebuild, repair, and grow stronger.
Yet, too many of us see rest as weakness, or at best, an optional add-on to the relentless pursuit of fitness, to just keep pushing through. A mindset that doesn’t just hinder progress, it can backfire, leading to fatigue, injury, and even burnout. Something I experienced firsthand recently.
Moving house, I decided to pack everything myself (23 years of stuff, big mistake). While packing, I was averaging 12,000 steps a
day in my house for two weeks, only having around 40-50 minutes of inactive time in the day (according to my trusty Oura ring).
The day before the big move I burnt over 1,300 calories without even leaving the house! Cue massive fatigue, a broken body, and major emotional fallout. Our bodies need rest, when we don’t give it to them, they sure as hell let us know about it.
The physiology of progress
To understand why recovery matters, you need to know what really happens when you move your body. Whether you’re running, lifting, cycling, or dancing, your body is experiencing stress. Muscles develop microscopic tears, your nervous system ramps up, and energy stores are depleted. Don’t panic, this isn’t a bad thing, it’s the trigger for adaptation.
However, the adaption phase doesn’t occur while you’re working out, it happens after. When you rest, your body begins a cascade of processes – muscles repair and become stronger, energy stores
(glycogen) are replenished, and your nervous system recalibrates. Without sufficient recovery, you’re effectively halting this process midway (imagine trying to bake bread but constantly opening the oven). Over time, insufficient recovery can lead to overtraining syndrome characterised by fatigue, plateaued progress, irritability, and even decreased immunity.
Recovery isn’t laziness
One of the biggest mental blocks people have is equating rest and recovery with laziness. Social media glorifies the grind, “no days off”, “no rest days”, “no pain, no gain” – you get the idea.
The truth is that intentional downtime is an active choice and a strategy employed by many top performing athletes and coaches. And when I say recovery, I’m not talking laying on the sofa all day (though sometimes that’s exactly what your body needs). There are multiple forms of recovery:
Active recovery – Low-intensity movement such as walking, light cycling, or yoga. This type of recovery promotes blood flow, reduces stiffness, and helps clear metabolic waste products like lactic acid. The day after running the Venice marathon, I wandered around the city sightseeing, and honestly, it was the best recovery I could have asked for. If I’d just stayed in bed, I probably would’ve needed someone to carry me out of the hotel.
Sleep – The OG recovery tool. Growth hormone is secreted during deep sleep, facilitating muscle repair and cellular restoration. Don’t skimp on sleep!
Nutrition – What you eat post-exercise replenishes glycogen stores, repairs muscle and reduces inflammation. Protein, complex carbohydrates, and hydration form the holy trinity of recovery nutrition.
Mental recovery – Stress, whether physical or psychological, taxes the same nervous system. Mindfulness, meditation, or even simple breathing exercises can help your body shift from fight-or-flight mode to rest-and-digest.
Planned rest days – Entire days without structured training allow both the mind and body to rest
Bring in the experts – Acupuncturists, massage therapists, osteopaths, chiropractors and reflexologists are all beneficial additions to your tool kit.
Recovery isn’t just about what you do after a workout. A stressful job, poor nutrition, and irregular sleep patterns all create hidden drains on your system. Think of movement and recovery as a pair – they’re not just for the gym or exercise, they’re part of you day to day life.
Recovery days can feel uncomfortable for those accustomed to constant motion (pretty much talking to myself here!). But when you start seeing recovery not as a break in your routine but as a crucial part of it, your body will thank you for it. Work smarter not harder.
When it comes to seeking professionals, getting recommendations from those you know and whose judgement you respect is really important – there are large numbers of ‘therapists’ in various fields working here in the Algarve. Your doctor would be a good starting point for advice. Here are just a few of the names we would suggest:
NUTRITIONISTS
Alice Rose Grinstead
Vale do Lobo 912 540 928 alicerosegrinstead.com
Karelle Laurent Nutrition
Loulé 965 504 284 karellelaurentnutrition.com
Sara Almedia
The Family Medical Centre
Vale do Lobo and Quinta do Lago 911 915 911 family-medical-centre.pt
MASSAGE THERAPISTS
Muscle Therapy Algarve
Almancil 925 382 490 muscletherapyalgarve.com
Zensation
Albufeira 289 572 313 spazensation.com
OSTEOPATHS
Algarve Osteopathy
Tavira 910 540 202
algarveosteopathy.com
Meet Annie Moore
“My own journey with yoga and meditation began over 20 years ago, and it has taught me one vital truth: peace doesn’t come from pushing harder, but from pausing. As women in midlife, we often spend so much time caring for others, working, and rushing through daily demands that we lose touch with our own natural rhythm.
“That’s why I now dedicate my work to helping women slow down, reconnect, and find balance through practices of yoga, meditation, and qigong. These gentle disciplines aren’t about striving or achieving; they are about listening inward, restoring energy, and awakening a deeper sense of calm.
“When we allow ourselves to pause, even for a moment, something shifts. We breathe more fully, the mind softens, and clarity arises. Nature reflects this beautifully—trees, tides, and seasons all follow their own steady rhythm. We too are meant to honour our cycles, rather than override them.
“Through stillness, women discover that they don’t need to chase someone else’s pace. Peace is already within, waiting to be felt in the pause. And from that place, life flows with more grace, ease, and authenticity.”
Annie Moore offers courses, classes, and one-to-one sessions –online and in person – at Casa Vida Yoga Shala, Loulé, and at her UK studio in Esher, Surrey.
To connect with Annie, email moorwellbeing@gmail.com or visit moorwellbeing.com
and Care Home
The tranquil village of Monte da Palhagueira in the sun-dappled Portuguese hills has elevated luxury retirement living to new heights.
A traditional development of beautiful villas, houses and apartments, Monte da Palhagueira offers luxury independent retirement living with the added reassurance of qualified medical assistance on hand should it ever be required.
Our English Nursing and Care Home offers a wide range of professional services. From convalescent and respite to full residential care with 24/7 Nursing safety. We offer tailored Person-centric holistic care: it is all about you and your needs.
Contact: Alexandre Neves
mdpmanager@amesburyabbey.com
montedapalhagueira.pt
Tel.: +351 289 990 900
Great, gifted and Portuguese
Main artworks: two of Nuno Goncalves’ Saint Vincent panels. Below them, left to right: Maria Helena Viera da Silva; Sofia Martins de Sousa; Paula Rego; Cristóvão de Morais; Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro
CHANCES ARE PORTUGUESE NAMES THAT SPRING TO MIND BELONG TO PEOPLE FROM THE WORLD OF FOOTBALL, OR EXPLORERS FROM THE PAST. RONALDO, MOURINHO, MAGELLAN, DA GAMA AND SO ON! TO REDRESS THE BALANCE LET’S CHECK OUT THOSE PEOPLE WHO WE AS ‘ESTRANGEIROS’ HAVE BEEN INCLINED TO OVERLOOK
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
PROBABLY THE Padrão dos Descobrimentos in Belem, Lisbon, on the north bank of the Tagus River sounds like an unsuitable place to find great artists from the past. Surely these stone effigies are associated with the great voyages of discovery and are the most well recognised of all the Portuguese. But there is one surprising exception!
On the west side, standing between a cartographer and a pilot, Nuno Gonçalves (1425-1492) is a handsome figure who holds an artist’s palette and a paintbrush. He possibly never stepped aboard a carrack or a caravel in his entire life but he is Portugal’s most renowned painter from the Renaissance period. He was sponsored by the king and that probably explains why he gained his place on the monument. His work is not to be confused with the ornate style of the Italian Renaissance artists – in Portugal the influence was Flemish.
There is only one painting definitely attributed to Gonçalves but it is massively impressive. Made up of six wooden panels it contains 58 characters with highly detailed and expressive faces. Entitled the Saint Vincent Panels it hangs in the most prominent of places inside the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga in Lisbon. It commemorates Portuguese victories against the Moors that took place in Morocco during the 1450s.
There is a legendary portrait by Cristóvão de Morais (1539-1580) that hangs nearby. Ironically it commemorates the tragic death of Dom Sebastião that happened in Morocco over a century after the heroes remembered on the Saint Vincent Panels. The young King Sebastião was killed on the battlefield in Alcácer Quibir, but his body was never recovered. This death created a terrible state of grief known as ‘saudade’ or eternal longing amongst his people. Like Gonçalves, Morais was one of Portugal’s great court artists and he had been commissioned by Sebastião’s grandmother to paint his portrait five years before his death. This poignant image of the self-assured young king stirs an emotional response.
philosophers, he became a leading Republican figure. When the monarchy fell in 1910 he was invited to design the flag for the new regime and to run the Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea do Chiado from 1914 to 1927. Many of his portraits and other images can be seen, including the Grupo de Leão meeting at their favourite restaurant the Leão de Ouro.
Over to the ladies
Inevitably, Portuguese enthusiasts could list many more important and favourite artists but perhaps what is especially striking is the number of Portuguese women who gained recognition during their lifetimes. In many countries women are poorly represented, but in Portugal there are at least four worth pointing out.
Nuno Gonçalves’ massive Saint Vincent is made up of six wooden panels containing 58 characters
Two are sisters, who like Rafael and Columbano, benefitted from being part of a well-to-do artistic family and perhaps a degree of sibling rivalry! Aurelia de Sousa (1866-1922) and Sofia Martins de Sousa (1870-1960) began their artistic studies at the Academia de Belas Artes in Porto and continued onto Paris and the prestigious Académie Julian where Matisse, Bonnard and Duchamp did their initial training. Their privileged existence enabled them to travel around Europe and on returning to Porto they took up the lifestyles of two respectable ladies. Their paintings exemplify their talents and everything they had been taught about realism, impressionism and postimpressionist art. Although they collaborated in joint exhibitions they rarely associated with people below their social class. Both are best known for their self portraits although Aurelia’s is especially beautiful and has been singled out as a landmark piece of 19th century art. It can be seen at Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis in Porto. Sofia’s self portrait says more about the life the sisters led in their middle years and hangs in the Museu Maria Ortigão Sampaio in Porto.
Moving on a few centuries, you might think you recognise this name, Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro (1857-1929). If so you are mixing him up with his more well-known brother, the great ceramicist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, creator of the quintessential caricature Zé Povinho and designer of the cabbage leaf pottery still popular today. Although Rafael’s ceramics continue to be fashionable during the brothers’ lifetimes, Columbano was probably the most influential. His genius for portraiture, adopting a naturalistic style, attracted many intellectual and liberal members of society to be painted. Co-founder of the Grupo de Leão, which involved an academic group of artists and
Paula Rego (1935-2022) needs no introduction to readers of AlgarvePLUS. Her remarkable work and the wonderful museum dedicated solely to her paintings has been featured in previous editions. Visitors to Cascais should not miss her thought-provoking work.
Leaving the most internationally acclaimed Portuguese artist until last, Maria Helena Viera da Silva (1908-1992) is a leading figure in the complex art of abstract expressionism. Her painted worlds are of spatial manipulations and fabricated architectural forms that have won prizes worldwide. (I could list them but they’d fill the page.) They have been exhibited globally and are contained in permanent collections in the most prestigious of museums. Individual pieces are sold for sums in excess of US$2,000,000. There are examples in Lisbon at Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian, and Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea do Chiado.
NIGEL CHAPMAN
WHERE WILL THE BALL BE?
Tavira, August 2025
Camera: iPhone 11
PK: “Even without the title, the viewer understands what is going on. I also find it very interesting that only three colours make up the image – very creative on the part of the photographer. The subject being centred is what really makes this image for me.”
1st place
Over the years, this month’s judge, photographic artist Paul Kulessa, has explored diverse subjects, including people, holidays and nature, fashion and beauty. kulessaphotography.com serves as a platform to share his artistic expression
GLYN PARRY PADEL COMPETITOR
Vilamoura, July 2025
Camera: Nikon D5
PK: “The exposure is good, the story is definitely there, framing is good for the event. I would have liked the top right background to have been more out of focus, but that is kind of nitpicking. The fact that the green ball is in line to meet the paddle is wonderful.”
2nd place
SPORTING CHANCES
INA TANZER HURRY UP
Praia da Cordoama
July 2025
Camera: Sony ILCE7M4
PK: “Many things work here. The surfer is positioned well with darker water behind her and the tether from the surfboard to her ankle indicates that she is moving rapidly. If I were experimenting, I might try cropping to the left side to make it appear she had more room to run in front of her.”
3rd place
DARYL GABIN
THE CELEBRATION
Quinta do Lago, August 2025
Camera: Canon R3
PK: “Having the player sharp and the background much softer is really nice, but the stuff above the Campus sign does not add anything to the image. If I were shooting an event like this, I would use a high frames-per-second shutter to give me options; the higher the better.”
5th place
SHARON JOHNSON
SO THIS IS THE PLAN
Portimão July 2024
Camera: iPhone 14
Pro
PK: “This could be the best composition for this image, but possibly if the surroundings were good then a little wider field of view may have improved the storytelling. Not knowing what else was possibly there I can’t make a call on that possible composition. I think this is a very good image.”
4th place
Manuela, a German beautician with 30-years experience, offers the latest technologies at her Almancil salon, including:
WIRELESS CHARGING
WHEN IT WAS LAUNCHED, THE VISION WAS THAT YOU COULD JUST TOSS YOUR PHONE ONTO A PAD AND IT WOULD CHARGE ALL BY ITSELF. IN REALITY, YOU HAD TO MOVE THE PHONE ABOUT TO FIND THE EXACTLY RIGHT SPOT AND THEN CHARGING WAS SLOW AND UNRELIABLE. IT WAS, IN FACT, AS MUCH OF A FAFF AS PLUGGING THE CHARGING CABLE IN. BUT THAT IS IN THE PAST NOW
Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE
AT LONG last, wireless charging is beginning to live up to expectations. Charging problems changed when Apple introduced its Magsafe system, which uses magnets to hold the phone in the right place for efficient charging, and also increases the power that can be transferred.
Until now only iPhones add the technology, but Magsafe now forms the basis of the latest international wireless charging standard Qi2 –pronounced Chee like the Chinese word for energy – so Android phones can join the party.
The power available for charging has also gone up, from the 5W in the original Qi system, widely regarded as pathetic, to a beefier 15W. Some flagship models even support 25W which is beginning to look acceptable compared with the most common charging power for USB of 30W (but the latest wired USB PD systems can deliver up to 240W for devices such as laptops).
Suction phone mount by Ideals of Sweden. Below: Apple Magsafe
The arrival of the Qi2 standard should also enable accessories to work with both iOS and Android, potentially bringing prices down.
Initial support for Qi2 for Android phones was limited – many flagship phones, including early Samsung Galaxy S models, omitted it due to engineering complexities. The addition of magnets can interfere with components like styluses such as the popular S Pen, demanding internal redesign.
HMD’s repairable Skyline phone was briefly the only Android phone with full Qi2 support, though it suffered from limited accessory compatibility.
Even the latest flagship phones from Samsung, the Galaxy S25 series, were merely “Qi2 Ready”, without any built-in magnets but compatible via magnetic cases.
Google’s new Pixel 10 series has embraced full Qi2 support, branded as ‘Pixelsnap’, integrating magnets and shipping alongside Qi2branded accessories.
Pixelsnap not only ensures alignment and accessory compatibility but also signals Android’s first mainstream embrace of Qi2 – many see it as a turning point in legitimising Qi2 for the Android ecosystem.
Some users lament the removal of reverse wireless charging (“Battery Share”) to accommodate Qi2’s built-in magnets.
Going forward
The range of accessories using Qi2 is slightly limited and a bit unimaginative so far. The most popular accessories are charging pads and charging stands designed to sit on your bedside table. Many charging stands have spaces for a phone and a smart watch.
The other popular category of accessory is snap-on battery packs designed to top up your smartphone midday without the need to carry cables. Qi2 wireless pads may soon appear in vehicles and smart furniture, adding convenience and charging ubiquity.
Q i 2 charging accessories
BELKIN ULTRACHARGE
MAGNETIC CHARGER
Belkin’s new Qi2 certified wireless charger delivers a full 25W to charge an iPhone from 0–50 per cent in just 30 minutes, up to five times faster than standard Qi chargers. Heat is controlled by passive cooling technology for optimal performance and battery protection. An integrated kickstand allows hands-free streaming, and a 2m tethered USB-C cable allows it to be positioned with maximum flexibility. €60.98 at amazon.es
IDEALS OF SWEDEN SUCTION PHONE MOUNT
This is a neat idea: a phone mount with octopus like suction pads on one side and a ring of magnets on the other. Just squeeze the pad onto a window or mirror and you can pop the phone onto it to take videos for Instagram.
€24.99 at idealofsweden.eu
ANKER 622 MAGNETIC BATTERY
This handy 5,000m Ah battery snaps on to your smartphone and also features a neat little stand that unfolds when you want to use the phone on your desk or aircraft table. The USB charger socket is considerately placed on the side so you can top up the battery while using the phone.
€39.90 at anker.com
SHIFTCAM SNAPGRIP CREATOR KIT
The one downside to the average smartphone’s slim design is it makes it difficult to maintain a good grip when taking photographs. ShiftCam’s SnapGrip adds a substantial finger grip and a proper button in a neat design that snaps on to the magnets in the phone, connecting the button via Bluetooth. The creator kit also comes with an LED light and a neat little folding tripod, making content creation a good deal easier without breaking the bank.
€129.99 at shiftcam.com
TIP: MAGNETIC CARD AND NOTES WALLET
Almost every wallet maker in the world has a Magsafe version that can be snapped onto the back of your phone. What a great idea –your phone and all your money in one easy-to-steal package. Far better to keep your credit cards and banknotes in a separate wallet so when some scooter-riding tea leaf snatches your phone you still have the wherewithal to get home.
ERIC ZEMAN
Google Pixelsnap
What began over a decade ago as a fascination for the beauty and craftsmanship of Portuguese ceramics, has now taken form — seven handpicked pieces that mark the beginning of my very own ceramic journey.
The result of an alliance between professional mastery and and my imagination led to pieces that play with matt and glossy contrasts and the elegance of subtle colours.
I feel a deep sense of happiness in opening box after box and seeing each piece reflecting the harmony of shapes and tones I had envisioned — and now hold in my hands.
FASHION AND ACCESSORIES: Largo Dr. Bernardo Lopes, nº5
Model schools – aimed at teaching aspiring models all they needed to know about deportment, fashion, posture and health – were pioneered in the 1920s. Stores like New York’s Bergdorf Goodman needed models to showcase their clothes on a catwalk, and entrepreneur John Robert Powers opened his ‘Charm School’ in 1920s Boston, Massachusetts. The girls were trained in hygiene, diet, posture and speech, and the school then became an agency, sending them out for jobs and taking a commission in return.
In 1946, Eileen Ford started her own model agency and was, it seems, something of a mother hen to new models, some of whom lived with her and her husband. Other schools followed, including, in London, the Lucie Clayton Charm Academy. This was founded in 1928 as a ‘model agency and finishing school’ by one Sylvia Lucie Golledge. She sold the business to Leslie Kark, whose PA, Evelyne Gordine, became the Principal.
By the 1950s the Lucie Clayton school had moved to New Bond Street and was flourishing. In the 1960s graduates included famous models like Celia Hammond, Joanna Lumley and Sandra Paul as well as actresses like Shirley Anne Field. As time went by, many of the girls treated it more as a finishing school and less of a modelling academy. In the 1990s it became a secretarial and business college, and in 2007 merged with two other secretarial colleges to become Quest Business Training. Today’s top model agencies like Storm, Premier, and Select train their own models as well as acting as their agents.
NEW CHAPTERS
SUPERSTAR MODELS, WHO DECORATED EVERY CONCEIVABLE MAGAZINE COVER AND PERSONALITY-DRIVEN EVENTS, MAY HAVE PASSED THE PUBLICITY OPPORTUNITIES OVER TO THE NEXT GENERATION, BUT THEY CONTINUE TO MAKE THE HEADLINES BECAUSE OF THEIR SUPPORT OF CHARITIES THAT CAN BENEFIT FROM RECOGNITION
Words: JILL ECKERSLEY
California-born Christy Turlington was one of the earliest supermodels, making her name in the late 1980s and early 1990s, and being described by Vogue’s Grace Coddington as “the most beautiful woman in the world.” She had done some modelling as a teenager before obtaining her BA from New York University and also studying at Columbia. She was associated with many top designers, including Valentino, Versace and Calvin Klein, as well as the beauty brand Maybelline. She also appeared in pop videos for the stars of the era like Duran Duran and George Michael.
Christy is a yoga practitioner and has written books on the subject as well as contributing to Marie Claire Magazine. Her articles included an interview with the Dalai Lama and a piece on girls’ education in Afghanistan. Her business ventures include a range of Ayurvedic skincare products and clothes collection.
Christy married actor/director/writer Ed Burns in 2003 and the couple have two children, Grace and Finn. After experiencing some childbirth complications herself, Christy founded a charity called Every Mother Counts, which is dedicated to improving maternal health and healthcare worldwide. Christy and her family live in New York City.
KATE MOSS
Kate Moss was 14 years old when she was talentspotted at JFK Airport in New York and rapidly became THE supermodel of the early 1990s. Her earliest modelling assignments were for The Face magazine and Levi’s Jeans. Comparatively short for a model at 5’ 7”, her waif-like figure and undoubted beauty made her what Vogue magazine later called “an icon for our times.”
This title didn’t come without controversy, however, and Kate and her agency were accused of promoting what was described as “heroin chic” and encouraging young women to starve themselves to fit in with the fashionable notion of beauty. Kate always denied this, once saying in exasperation “How many times can you say ‘I’m not anorexic?’”
Kate became known as much for her romances as for her work. She dated actor Johnny Depp, musician Pete Doherty, journalist Jefferson Hack – the father of her daughter Lila – and married musician Jamie Hince in 2011 in one of the prettiest ‘celebrity weddings’ ever seen. Kate wore a gown by John Galliano and was attended by a flock of small girls in white dresses.
The marriage ended in 2015 and Kate’s partner now is photographer Count Nikolai von Bismarck. The couple live in the Cotswolds and Kate is still active in the fashion and beauty industries. She opened her own agency, KMA, in 2016, has her own Wellness brand, Cosmoss, as well as doing some modelling and musical collaborations with Elton John, Paul McCartney and Oasis. She is also a supporter of Cancer Research UK, Elton John’s AIDS Foundation, and Comic Relief.
NAOMI CAMPBELL
Like Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell was discovered in her teens and was the first black model to appear on the cover of Time Magazine and Vogue France. Her mother was a dancer and Naomi spent her earliest years in Italy where her mother worked, and then in London where she attended the Italia Conti stage school. She studied ballet and originally intended to become a dancer herself, before being ‘spotted’ by a model agency when she was 16.
Her success helped to break down the barriers for black models in both Europe and the USA. In this she was supported by her fellow models Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista. Naomi appeared alongside Kate Moss in the closing ceremony of the 2012 Olympics, representing the British fashion industry. Her other projects have included a novel, Swan, and an album, Baby Woman.
In 2023 she took part in the Apple TV film
The Supermodels, and the following year the Victoria and Albert Museum launched its Naomi in Fashion exhibition in her honour. She has also been appointed as ambassador for the Kenyan Ministry of Tourism, as well as being a supporter of the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund – he had called her his “honorary granddaughter” – and Breakthrough Breast Cancer.
Naomi was briefly engaged to U2 bassist Adam Clayton and has dated many well-known men including Leonardo Di Caprio and Robert de Niro. She has a son and a daughter.
Naomi owns several homes, including an apartment in New York, a Russian mansion, and a villa in Kenya which is said to include four swimming pools!
Your money
RICARDO CHAVES OF ALL FINANCE MATTERS IS HERE TO HELP PEOPLE UNDERSTAND WHAT IS ALLOWABLE – AND NOT – WHEN IT COMES TO FINANCIAL MATTERS IN PORTUGAL. AFM EXPERTS CAN ADVISE YOU ON HOW TO DEAL WITH BOTH BUSINESS AND PERSONAL TAX MATTERS TO ENSURE
YOU ARE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE POSITION
QI own a property in the countryside that I rent to tourists. I am VAT registered, and my AL licence is fully valid. I am considering buying some tents to offer a glamping option for guests. Is this possible? Can I deduct the VAT if I purchase the tents in France and import them into Portugal?
If you install tents, even if they do not constitute a fixed installation, you may still need to obtain permission from the council. Check with an architect or lawyer beforehand regarding the necessary licences.
If you are paying VAT in Portugal, you may import the tents and apply the reverse charge, under which the seller does not charge VAT. Instead, the accountant is responsible for calculating the VAT due on the transaction and reporting it in the client’s VAT return.
Please note that if you are VAT registered but exempt because you are below the threshold, you will still be under the reverse charge mechanism, but this applies only up to €10,000 of imports per year. So, if the tents are more expensive than this, although you will not pay the VAT in France, you will have to pay it in Portugal and submit an additional VAT return.
QMy NHR expires at the end of 2028. Currently, all my income comes from my UK company; I have a pension pot but haven’t started drawing from it yet. What steps should I take now, and what mistakes should I avoid before 2029? I also have a UK property that I am considering selling since we rarely go to the UK these days.
Under the original Non-Habitual Residency, your pension withdrawals are tax-free in Portugal until the end of 2028. This means that if you start taking money from this pension, you will not be taxed in either the UK or Portugal.
The decision to start withdrawing money depends on its performance, but in most cases, you should seek independent financial advice to explore alternatives.
Although your SIP remains very tax-efficient after the NHR, you might want to take it out of the UK to avoid future taxes.
Many clients choose Life Assurance Policies (unit-linked
pension plans), which are not only highly tax-efficient postNHR but also allow heirs to inherit. Taxation on this applies only to the capital gain, not the capital itself, and after eight years, the CGT could be as low as 11.2%.
Regarding your company, while you might not need to withdraw dividends, it is recommended to do so – they will be tax-free in both countries.
Regarding your property, it is better to sell it before the end of the NHR period because any real estate sale will be reported to the Portuguese Tax Authorities, but it will only be exempt while the NHR status is valid. After NHR ends, half of the capital gain will be taxed, minus the tax paid in the UK. In the worst-case scenario, you may pay 24% tax (up to 48% on 50% of the gain).
QMy wife and I have sold our home in Portugal and plan to buy another property here. However, we recently learned that my wife has a terminal illness, and are considering purchasing the property solely in my name to avoid future inheritance issues. What is the best strategy to avoid capital gains tax?
As joint owners of the property, you need to reinvest the proceeds into another property to avoid taxes, and you have 36 months to do this. If you buy in your name, we suggest investing your spouse’s share into a pension fund. Individuals over 65 years or retired who reinvest the sale proceed into an insurance contract (such as a PPR), a pension fund, or contribute to the public capitalisation scheme, are exempt from CGT. If your wife reinvests within six months of the sale in one of these products, the reinvestment is also guaranteed, and the product can be inherited by beneficiaries without paying inheritance tax. If the reinvestment made is of the entire amount of her share of the sale, the exemption is complete. However, if only a part is reinvested, the exemption applies in proportion – if your wife reinvests 30% of her share, then 30% of the capital gains will be exempt from taxation.
In the next issue, we look at personal income tax and how progressive rates work.
Send questions you may have to info@afm.tax for possible inclusion in AlgarvePLUS. To consult directly with the experts at AFM, email info@afm.tax
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QI understand there have been recent changes to the rules governing short-term rentals (Alojamento Local or AL) in Portugal, particularly in popular areas like the Algarve. What are the current rules, and how do they affect property owners?
AIn recent years, Portugal’s shortterm rental properties, known as Alojamento Local (AL), have been a major draw for investors and second-home owners, especially in the Algarve. With its thriving tourism industry, warm climate, and beautiful coastline, the region has seen thousands of properties registered as ALs, allowing owners to earn income by renting to holidaymakers.
However, the growing number of shortterm rentals sparked concerns about housing availability and affordability for locals. In response, the Portuguese government introduced several reforms designed to control AL growth, and ease pressure on housing, giving more power to local authorities. These changes have significantly reshaped the landscape for existing and prospective AL operators.
You can still get an AL licence but with conditions. In 2023, the government temporarily froze new AL registrations in most areas, especially urban centres and tourist hotspots. This measure was part of a broader national housing initiative aimed at prioritising long-term residential needs.
That freeze was lifted in 2024. Since then, it has been possible to apply for a new AL licence again. However, municipalities
Going legal
LEGAL EXPERTS NELSON RAMOS AND ROBERTA RAMOS WHO, TOGETHER WITH THEIR SPECIALIST TEAM AT RAMOS & ASSOCIADOS IN ALMANCIL, ADVISE CLIENTS ON VARIOUS ISSUES. THIS MONTH, THEY EXPLAIN THE CHANGES GOVERNING AL RENTALS AND THE BENEFITS THEY OFFER
now have the authority to restrict or limit licences in specific zones often referred to as “containment zones”.
AL licenses, once valid for five years, are now permanent, offering more stability for property owners and reducing the bureaucratic burden of renewals.
One of the most welcome changes is that AL licences are now transferable. If you decide to sell your property, the AL licence can stay with the property and be passed on to the new owner, unless a specific municipal rule prohibits it. This adds value for buyers and makes transactions smoother including in cases of inheritance.
In the earlier reforms, a special tax on AL operations, known as CEAL, was introduced to reduce the attractiveness of shortterm rentals and raise funds for housing initiatives. This tax was widely criticised by property owners and industry stakeholders.
Fortunately, the CEAL tax has been abolished, and the repeal was made retroactive. This means that owners are not required to pay the tax, even for the period during which it was technically in effect.
One of the key changes in the AL system is the increase in local control. Municipalities now have much more say in how AL operates within their borders. This includes the ability to limit or freeze new registrations, designate containment and establish specific conditions for licence approval.
As a result, AL regulation now varies from place to place. If you own property in the Algarve or plan to start a rental operation, it’s more important than ever to be aware of the rules in your particular municipality.
And if your property is part of a
condominium, you no longer need unanimous approval from your neighbours to register an AL. However, co-owners do have the right to vote on whether AL activity should be restricted or cancelled in the building. If at least 50% of owners agree and can show that the AL is causing disruption or harm, the activity may be limited.
This gives more voice to residents while protecting the rights of responsible owners who run their rentals professionally.
The law now limits AL capacity to a maximum of nine rooms or 27 guests per property. Additional rules apply to the use of temporary beds, sofa beds, and similar arrangements to avoid overcrowding and ensure safety.
These restrictions help maintain comfort standards and reduce the risk of excessive tourist density in residential areas.
To help manage potential conflicts between AL operators and neighbours, many municipalities are introducing the role of a local AL ombudsman. This neutral party can mediate disputes and work toward a resolution without the need for legal action. With these changes in place, AL continues to be a valuable opportunity for income, but one that requires awareness, responsibility, and good communication with your local authority and community.
If you’re already operating an AL or thinking of starting one, now’s the time to check your local rules and, if needed, get professional advice to make sure you’re on the right side of the law.
Email questions for Ramos Associados to martin@algarveplusmagazine.com
The Algarve’s premier Italian restaurant — and your local reference for tasteful living, in collaboration with our interiors and lifestyle shop.
DOM PATTINSON
ArtCatto
Vila Vita Parc Porches artcatto.com
Stand Out Stand Proud, mixed media on canvas, 120x130cm
BASTIAAN WOUDT
In The Pink Praca da República 69-75 Loulé in-the-pink.com Until mid-November
For this special exhibition, works from several of Woudt’s major series –Rhythm, Champions, Peak, Karawan, and Echo from Beyond – offering collectors and audiences an in-depth look at his evolving practice.
Mana From Heaven, excavated / carved mixed media on panel, 84x183x8cm
ANT Ó NIO BARAHONA
Vale do Lobo d’Artes Vale do Lobo 962 012 111 taviradartes.com
Part of a special exhibition, La Ventana Azul, oil on panel, 30x45cm
RUI VASCONCELOS
Municipal Museum, Faro in collaboration with Artadentro 919 328 019 artadentro.com
18 October to 11 January
Soluco is the name of this exhibition of drawings and engravings that take landscape and nature as their point of departure. Vasconcelos’ work is included in some of Portugal’s most important contemporary art collections.
BISNER
Gama Rama, Rua do Prior 13, Faro, 961 371 891 Until 1 November
An ironic and fragmented view of contemporary reality, through analog collages and sculptural compositions.
KIM HUNTER DESCENDING A STAIRCASE
Convento de Santo António Loulé. Until 18 October. 10h00–13h30 and 14h30–18h00
Curated by Susana Pomba, this exhibition is the result of a curatorial and artistic residency held at the Alfaia cultural association in November 2024, bringing together new and existing works in media, such as sculpture, film, sound pieces, drawing, and installation. The title refers to American actress Kim Hunter who played Stella Kowalski alongside Marlon Brandon in the 1951 film A Streetcar Named Desire directed by Elia Kazan. In an iconic scene, Stella descends a staircase to meet Stanley. On show in this exhibition are works from Inês Brites, Diana Policarpo, Sara Fonseca da Graça and Alexandra Ramires.
The results of a remarkable artistic residency will enchant and enthrall you.
A group of hugely respected creative talents incuding
Email for full details
designers, weavers and architects, in partnership with Algarchurra (the Association of Algarve Churra Sheep Breeders), took on a huge challenge to promote Churra wool and strengthen ties between
Amigos do Museu
producers, trainers and textile artisans to preserve the cultural and historical heritage associated with this breed – one of the 62 native breeds of Portugal and the only churra in the south of the country.
Museu do Traje, São Brás, 966 329 073, admin@amigosdomuseu.com
Archaeological Talk
7 October, 14h30 (in English) Science meets Eternity. Radiology unveils ancient Egyptian mummies secrets, presented by Carlos Silva Prates. Tickets: €5
Gypsy Jazz Trio with Sofia Moreira, Luís Fialho and João Duarte 11 October, 17h00 Tickets €8, Amigos €6
Quiz: Helping Hands Algarve 14 October, 19h00 (in English) €3.50 to take part
Atelier: Make a Bag 18 October, 14h00–18h00 Craft class with Mariana Prates Limited places To participate: €15
Fado
26 October, 21h00 Tickets €5
To book, call 926 354 516
Book Sale
30 October, 10h00–12h30
Photography Exhibition Minimalism
Old Gallery On until 27 November
Collective Art Exhibition Through our Eyes
Opens 31 October
New Gallery
Vale do Lobo
valedolobo.com
WINE CONNECTION
TASTING EXPERIENCE
11 & 12 October, 16h00–21h00
Tickets €20, from eventbrite
This highly anticipated event brings together a curated selection of wines, spirits, and regional products, all accompanied by live music – the perfect combination to savour your favourite wines and meet the producers and stories that inspire them. A catering service will be available, offering a variety of snacks, delicacies, and traditional flavours such as cheese, cured ham, sausages, and other irresistible gourmet treats, perfectly paired with the wines on offer.
OCTOBER HALF-TERM
JUNIOR GOLF ACADEMY
VALE DO LOBO GOLF CLUB
27-31 October, 14h00–16h00
Under the expert guidance of Vale do Lobo’s golf professional, participants will enjoy a series of fun, dynamic, and personalised sessions – from mastering swing techniques to learning the finer points of golf etiquette and course strategy.
Tickets: €150 per child for the full five-day programme available at the Vale do Lobo Golf Club. Places are limited to ten children to ensure individual attention, so early booking is essential.
WORKSHOPS
LIFE DRAWING SESSION WITH JILL STOTT
Galeria Meinkeflesseman
R. Infante Dom Henrique 126, 8500-639 Portimão 917 937 564 meinke-flesseman.com
4 and 18 October, 15h00–18h00
All abilities are welcome from beginners to experienced artists.
LIGHTHOUSE COURSES
Art & Adventure 910 410 268 info@lighthouse-artcourses.com
lighthouse-artcourses.com
Workshops held in English. All materials included Email for full details
Embark on a culinary voyage inspired by Vasco da Gama, savouring Tomatolada stew, Pastéis de Bacalhau, Portuguese French Toast, and Mozambique’s Chamuças de Batata.
10-14 October
Cooking Holiday: Portugal’s Spice Route and Beyond Discover Portugal’s culinary legacy through hands-on
workshops, history, and flavours tracing the spice route, where culture, gastronomy, and tradition intertwine in an unforgettable holiday.
October to December
A show-cooking experience paired with local vineyard wines – perfect for celebrations, private gatherings, or simply unforgettable get-togethers. For details 969 335 749 figsonthefuncho.com/calendarof-events/
MUSIC
BELLA ACAPELLA AND THE SKYLINE SISTERS
Tavira: 4 October, 18h00
Igreja de Terceira Ordem do Carmo
Olhão: 5 October, 17h00
República 14 - Cultural Association
Tickets: €8 for members, €10 for non-members
The Skyline Sisters is a Dutch women’s barbershop chorus from Rotterdam led by Mieneke Klinkert; Bella Acapella is a multinational barbershop chorus from the Algarve led by Rob Does. There will be around 70 singers on stage during the two concerts, and the atmosphere will be great.
República 14, Olhão See republica14.pt for details of the packed October programme, and page 30 of this issue to learn more about this brilliant initiative
MUSIC Amigos de musica
Os Agostos, Santa Bárbara, amigosdemusica.org 14 and 16 October
Doors open at 18h00, concerts begin at 19h00
This month, violin and flute duo from Slovenia, Lana Trotovsek and Boris Bizjak, play works by Bach, Mozart, Debussy and Prokofiev in the Tuesday concert, and Bach, Mozart, Berthoven, Gliere and Handel on the Thursday. Tickets, €30, include refreshments and drinks. To book, email reservasconcertos@gmail.com
For more information about the Amigos de Música and concert programmes, visit the website; or membership enquiries please contact helga.hampton@gmail.com
musicaguadiana.org, 17-19 October
A three-day mix of live music from more than 20 performers on two riverside stages over the weekend. On the Sunday there are the traditional ‘open mike’ sessions where the weary musicians do their own thing.
MELCHIOR SESSIONS
Galeria Meinkeflesseman, R. Infante Dom Henrique 126, Portimão 917 937 564, melchiorsessions@gmail.com 25 October, 18h00–21h00
Pablo Lapidusas is an Argentine-Brazilian pianist, composer, and producer with seven albums and a published songbook. He has collaborated with artists such as Hermeto Pascoal, Edu Lobo, Maria João, and Jaques Morelenbaum, performing in over 40 countries. Since moving to Europe in 2012, he has built a vibrant solo and ensemble career, including performances with major orchestras. In 2021, he received the Prêmio Profissionais da Música for his soundtrack to RTP’s Herdeiros de Saramago. Tickets: In advance €25, at the door €30 Call 938 956 812 or email to book.
GUADIANA INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL 2025 Alcoutim,
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FOOD
And finally
FOR THOUGHT. AS PORTUGAL CONTINUES TO GAIN WORLD RECOGNITION FOR THE QUALITY OF ITS CUISINE, ANTHONY MARTIN POINTS OUT HOW TASTES AND SKILLS HAVE CHANGED OVER THE YEARS
IN THE SUMMER of 2015, Giles Coren, the esteemed Times columnist, foodie and arbiter of all things we should aspire to, wrote the following words: “Portuguese cooking is the worst on earth. Or at least, the worst of any warm nation on earth”.
Now come on Gilesy, if I may be so bold to address you so. I know that you gained a first in English Literature at Oxford, are the son of the revered and sadly missed Alan Coren, and have a sister who can, and has, wiped the floor with some of the world’s best poker players. But none of the above qualifies you to demean the much-loved and multi-acclaimed pastel de nata, especially as just six years earlier The Guardian newspaper listed it as “one of the 50 best things to eat in the world”. (Finally, I agree with something written in that newspaper). Also, in 2011, after a public vote, the pastry was announced as one of the Seven Wonders of Gastronomy.
A little history: the Pastel de Belém, as our favourite pastry was originally named, dates back to the 17th century when the monks in Lisbon’s Jerónimos monastery used egg whites to starch fabric. This, as you can imagine, led to a surfeit of yolks, and what better to do with egg yolks than to make cakes and pastries? This they did and sold them in the nearby sugar refinery. When the monastery was shut down in 1834, the recipe – until then kept highly secret – was sold to the refinery.
is not cooking, but please remember that this tiny country on the westernmost edge of the civilised world now has 48 Michelin-starred restaurants that, amazingly, do serve other dishes, some of which I am sure would satisfy even your palate.
As beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, taste is on the tip of the tongue, and to argue from the other side of the serving platter, is it possible, Mr Coren, that your tongue visited Porto and there sampled a bowl of tripe, aka the inner lining of an animal’s stomach, which is highlyregarded by the Tripeiros, the residents of said city.
If this is the reason for your critique of ten years ago then I must agree with you, for I, too, subjected myself to this dish… when in Rome, etc.
There is good and bad wherever you go but one should never judge an entire country based on the experience you had in a single region
The building now exists as the bakery we know and love, the famous Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, recognisable by the long line of people, of every age and nationality, queuing to get in, or standing outside photographing each other cramming pastéis into their mouths as quickly as they can. The bakery, which opened in 1837, now produces an incredible 20,000 of this mouthwatering delicacy every single day.
Now, I’m sure you would argue, Mr C, that a custard tart
When I ordered, the waiter –noting I was English – gave me his ‘are you sure?’ look, and the Portuguese couple at the next table watched intently as I took the first bite.
They were not disappointed with my reaction and probably took bets on whether I would swallow it or not; I did, but my expression must have spoken for me.
There is good and bad wherever you go but one should never judge an entire country based on the experience you had in a single region.
So, young Coren, please don’t belittle this small land of ours that constantly fights above its weight on many fronts, and bear in mind that Portugal’s revolution did not take place until 1974 and that it took time to reach the level of culinary sophistication you evidently expected. In the ten years that have passed since your rather fierce criticism, perhaps you have done some homework regarding Portugal’s culinary offerings and will choose your restaurants wisely. Remember, this is a proud country with proud people, and I am proud to say that I am part of its population. And I would be proud, and delighted, to pass on recommendations of where and what to eat when you next visit.
