Trainers at the ready. Factor 50 in the bag. Sun hat looking the part. Sunglasses, all clean and polished. What else do I need, let me see... Gel to stop mozzie bites itching. Paper hankies in case pollen count is high. Four fold up, very lightweight bags – well, you never know when they’ll come in handy. Filled water flask. Spare T-shirt – temperatures could soar and the forecast here is inevitably wrong. Flipflops. Beach towel. Fully charged Kindle. Ditto phone. Check. And check again. Phew, a day off, and so organised.
Out to the car. Beach bag in boot. Key in ignition. Nothing. Car won’t start. Twiddle and fiddle. Zero response. Kicking won’t help, and nor will swearing. Phone friend to say forget lunch. She was so looking forward to our date on the beach and grilled giant prawns. She hangs up, disappointed. Phone husband to ask what to do. Told to go back in the house and sit – he’ll be a couple of hours. Open the garage and take out a pizza from the freezer. That’ll be my lunch. My solo lunch. Remove beach bag from boot. Lock the car – though no one could take it. Deep sigh. Get to front door. Keys. Oh yes, I can see them on the table – the table inside the house. The walk to the nearest neighbour is a good half hour. Friends are all at work, or on holiday. The forecast is correct for once, it is 30°C+. And the frozen pizza is starting to thaw.
I have learned a lesson. A few, actually. I don’t need days off. In the office, there’s aircon, a small fridge, a host of chargers. And my Mac. And the next month’s issue ready to be put to bed. I need to stay doing what I do best. And yes, to pocket the keys when I go out.
Don’t settle for the ordinary when you can relish the extraordinary. And that even goes for door handles. This amazing brass pull, Folio by Pullcast, has been designed in partnership with Maeve and embraces the natural landscape and palm leaves. The effect is incredible. pullcast.eu
Tamara Comolli’s Mikado pendants are adorned with vibrant gemstones including turquoise, tourmaline, peridot, Swiss topaz, Mandarin garnet, and chrysoprase, styled on leather cords or 18K white, rose, or yellow gold necklaces, and paired with Tamara’s Signature pendants. There are four sizes, with prices ranging from €1,300 to €2,950. See the collection exclusively at Vila Vita Parc’s sensational V-Life shopping parade. tamaracomolli.com
IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE, EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com
FRONT COVER: Hats on please as the heat intensifies. Treat yourself to a whole wardrobe of hand-woven straw numbers.
Hey good looking!
Bo Bo Noir is a Portuguese brand based in Porto whose message is ‘Eyewear with Attitude.’ They produce sunglasses, optical frames and blue light filtering glasses for digital lifestyles, helping reduce eye strain from screens. All that, and the styling is great! bobonoir.com
wish list
Carved brass lantern, perfect for those slow summer evenings, its intricate design casts beautiful patterns when lit. 25cm high. From Alamaya in Almancil, €48. alamayadeco.com
PASSIONATELY AFRICA
A STORY IN PICTURES
An important new book, Passionately Africa, by Algarve-based photographer Tessa Schack has now been launched. It is a labour of love and a tribute to the extraordinary landscapes, captivating wildlife, and vibrant communities that make Africa so magical. “As a wildlife photographer,” says Tessa, “I strive to reveal the beauty and vulnerability of nature, capturing images that spark a sense of connection and responsibility for protecting wildlife.” The photographs featured are the result of 18 months’ work across Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, Tanzania, and Zambia — countries renowned for their extraordinary biodiversity and breathtaking landscapes. Sales of the book will be donated to the CLZ (Conservation Lower Zambezi) in Zambia. tessaschack.com
Tessa Schack
From Ange Boutik in São Brás, a dazzle of gorgeous items, from hand painted ceramics to soaps, fragrances, candles, aprons and bags, including this beautiful Hajjar Blanc fragrance by Castelbel, 100ml and the 250ml fragrance diffuser. instagram.com/ange_boutik/
The McQueen Rectangular Light Mirror is a meticulously designed beauty object that makes a statement of contemporary luxury. The frame of foliage is made from hammered brass with a gold-plated finish luxxu.net
Golden Hour is the name of an art project that interior stylist Ana Trancoso created for Tivoli Avenida Liberdade’s hall and lobby. Inspired by sunsets at the beach and the work of Alexander Calder, Ana built a structure that involves a suspended part that plays with light and interacts with the surrounding space.
And until the end of July, the Portuguese artist, Bela Silva, displays Já Tão Longe in the Lisbon hotel, a collection of some of her big ceramic sculptures, in bright warm colours.
tavira - loulé - olhão - lagos
FUNDRAISING GOLF TOURNAMENT
A SPECIAL EVENT THAT TAKES PLACE NEXT MONTH IN OMBRIA IS LOOKING TO RAISE MONIES FOR A REHABILITATION PROGRAMME FOR UKRAINIAN FRONTLINE MEDICS WHO PROVIDE EMERGENCY CARE. THESE PEOPLE WORK UNDER CONSTANT PRESSURE AND TRAUMA; THEY SAVE LIVES, BUT OFTEN HAVE NO TIME OR SPACE TO CARE FOR THEMSELVES
Words: NADIYA BEZHNAR
I
CAME TO PORTUGAL in 2023, fleeing the war in Ukraine with my three-year-old son and one bag. This country gave me the space to breathe again and get back on my feet – keep walking and keep working. But my whole family and most friends stayed in my home country and are protecting it now, so I must help regardless of the distance.
On July 21, at the new golf course at the Ombria Resort, we’ll bring together up to 88 players. There will be a lot of meaning packed into one day. We’ll play 18 holes, share stories over a gala lunch carefully cooked by Portuguese and Ukrainian chefs, and hold a charity auction of artworks and exclusive items.
The event runs from 07h30 to 18h00. The full-day ticket, including the tournament and gala lunch, is €195 per person. We also have options if you want to join for only for lunch – €85 – or just for golf, €130. Our goal is to raise funds for Repower (repower. ngo), a ten-day rehabilitation programme created by a small Ukrainian team that has already helped up to 1,000 medics recover and return to service.
Thirteen programmes have already taken place in Sweden, Denmark, and Spain. We believe Portugal can become the fourth country not only to host the programme, but also benefit from exchanging the experience of treating PTSR with one of the best combat medics in Europe.
For me, this project matters deeply. Several members of my family, including my father, are surgeons in pre-frontline areas. So I’m putting all my personal and professional skills into bringing it to life.
The tournament will be attended by the Ambassador of Ukraine in Portugal and will bring together respected guests and officials from both communitiesn who will join us in making this meaningful and impactful.
There are many ways to support the cause: Join us as a player
Become a sponsor or influencer – we’re offering flexible, creative formats
Or simply make a donation – every euro goes directly to organising the next Repower session in Portugal. Play golf, save lives.
ELVAS DRESSED TO IMPRESS
THERE ARE TREASURES WAITING IN THE DUST OF THE INTERIOR. RAGING RIVERS FURTHER NORTH SLICE THROUGH GLORIOUS LANDSCAPES, FUNNELLING PAST CASTLES, CHURCHES AND MANOR HOUSES THAT HAVE STOOD THE TEST OF TIME. PORTUGAL IS ONE OF THE OLDEST COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD, GO EXPLORE IT!
Words: NICK ROBINSON, ALGARVE ADDICTS
ON A WARM autumn morning, I left the serenity of the Alqueva dam behind, the mirror-like water still in the golden light. My route took me past the hilltop charm of Monsaraz and into Alandroal, where I paused for a dark, steaming coffee. I was deep into a mission: to document all of Portugal’s 62 border castles, starting from Castro Marim in the far southeast. Now, several days in and many kilometres later, I was nearing one of the crown jewels of the journey – Elvas.
This was no ordinary stop. Elvas is one of Portugal’s three most heavily fortified towns (alongside Valença and Marvão), and as I approached, the landscape began to rise and ripple with centuries of strategy and stone. Forts on hilltops. Layers of walls. A garrison to the southeast. Elvas isn’t simply nestled into its landscape – it commands it. By the time I entered the town, the Alentejo sun was beginning its slow descent, casting a dusty golden shimmer over the hills. The air felt hushed, reverent.
After days of chasing castles, Elvas didn’t feel like just another checkpoint – it felt like the boss level. The culmination. The
payoff. From afar, Elvas stands tall, peering east toward Spain like a sentinel that never sleeps. Its fortifications are a marvel – walls within walls, moats without water, and bastions stacked like military nesting dolls. And towering above it all is the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça, or simply, the Graça Fort, an 18thcentury star-shaped masterpiece of military architecture. But we’ll get to that. First, let’s rewind and set the scene.
The facts
Elvas is more than a fortified town. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the largest bulwarked dry-ditch fortification in the world. That’s not tourism hyperbole – it’s architectural fact. Walk its cobbled lanes, climb its ramparts, and you’ll feel it: this place was built not just to last, but to intimidate.
Long before drones gave us bird’s-eye views, Elvas was being carved into the shape of stars, bastions, and hornworks by engineers who understood both geometry and fear. This town was Portugal’s firewall – its line in the sand.
Elvas is wrapped tight in multiple layers of defensive walls. Inside, daily life continues with a quiet rhythm. Lively squares, sleepy alleys, tiled churches – it feels like a living museum where history and the present share a slow dance.
The town’s main fortifications were massively expanded after 1640, when Portugal restored its independence from Spain.
This page: Viewpoint from Nossa Senhora da Graça Fort. Opposite page, top left clockwise: Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral in Republic Square; classic brass kock on a door in the city; the delicious cinnamon spiced dessert, Sericaia; the stunning detail in the Igreja das Domínicas
The architects of that era weren’t building towns –they were building statements. If you’re into military architecture, brace yourself: it’s a feast of terminology.
The architects of that era weren’t building towns – they were building statements. And if you’re into military architecture, brace yourself: ravelins, tenailles, glacis – it’s a feast of terminology. But even without knowing the terms, the sheer scale and harmony of the design is stunning.
Despite its martial past, Elvas is anything but sterile. Locals sip coffee on shaded terraces, kids kick footballs against ancient ramparts, and shopkeepers hang laundry beside cannons that once defended the nation.
I settled at a café off the Praça da República, sipping a strong bica cheia, watching two GNR officers joke with an elderly couple. The pace of life here is deliberate. It invites you to slow down, to explore with intent.
After fueling up, I made the pilgrimage up to Forte da Graça. You can walk, but if you’re like me – lugging cameras, notebooks, and a lingering espresso high – it’s easier to drive or taxi it up.
The fort sits about a kilometre north of the main town and is as intimidating up close as it is elegant from afar. Built between 1763 and 1792, it was designed to deflect cannon fire, house no less than 2,000 troops, and hold out indefinitely thanks to
its skillfully conceived underground cisterns. Its star-shaped design, a hallmark of Vauban-style engineering, is breathtaking. I climbed spiral staircases, wandered dry moats, and imagined the boots, the flags, the shouted orders. From the command post, I could see into Spain – Elvas’ eternal neighbour and historic rival.
Food for thought
Back in town, hunger called. In Alentejo, meals aren’t eaten, they’re celebrated. I found a rustic gem called Mercato just outside the walls: low arches, a tiled bar, and a menu that reads like a folk song about pork, bread, and garlic.
I started with sopa de cação – a hot, herby shark soup that surprises with its depth. Then came migas com carne de porco à alentejana: garlicky bread mash, marinated pork, clams, and peppers, all washed down with a bold red from São Vicente. I ended with filhós, deep-fried dough kissed with cinnamon and sugar, and a coffee strong enough to wake the spirits of every soldier who ever stood guard here.
The next morning, I hiked up to the Castelo de Elvas – the medieval core of the town’s defenses. With origins tracing
back to the Muslim period and upgrades layered on through the Reconquista and beyond, it’s a fortress of many lives. Climbing the keep, I gazed across to the Graça Fort and the Forte de Santa Luzia, forming a triangle of defense. The stones radiated the morning’s heat, and for a moment, history whispered to me.
Such an amazing past
On my way out of Elvas, I couldn’t miss the Aqueduto da Amoreira. Its arches stretch like a giant stone centipede across the landscape, bringing water to Elvas for nearly five centuries. I pulled over, rolled down the window, and took it in – the light, the history, the silent endurance. This aqueduct once sustained a garrison. Now, it is just a relic of survival that has become a part of the scenery, a feature of many photographs.
Elvas has seen it all: Moorish occupation in the eighth century, the War of the Oranges in 1801, the Napoleonic invasions, and Portugal’s colonial wars. It has served as a bastion, a barracks, and a bulwark. During the Peninsular Wars, British and Portuguese forces defended it against Napoleon’s armies. Plaques and cannons and statues dotted around town still mark those moments. Even throughout the 20th century, Elvas remained relevant, hosting Portuguese troops destined for Africa during the colonial wars. Elvas’ stones lie there, but they’ve experienced stuff. They’ve experienced stories. And that, without question, adds to the magic that never fails to enthrall.
Don’t Miss
Museu Militar de Elvas – A deep dive into Portugal’s military past, set inside a former barracks. Uniforms, weapons, and strategy galore.
Castelo de Elvas – A medieval fortress with sweeping views and centuries of tales.
Igreja das Domínicas – Octagonal and elegant, it’s a hidden gem packed with azulejos.
Sericaia – A cinnamon-spiced dessert served with prunes.
Sounds odd. Tastes divine.
As I stood on the ramparts, the sun low and blazing orange, I looked out toward Spain – just eight kilometres away. The land was quiet. No drums. No smoke. Just golden hills and a timeless peace.
Elvas doesn’t guard borders anymore. It guards memory. It tells the story of a small country that stood tall, defiant, and unyielding.
And as I turned the key and headed west into the fading dusk, I carried with me the memory of Elvas – its grandeur, its grit, and its grace. It’s fascinating how many of these locations, laced with history, are dotted all over the depopulated interior of Portugal.
In modern days, talking about Portugal, most people – especially visitors – will volunteer their thoughts about the best-known destinations like Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve, while there is a host of treasures in the interior just waiting to be discovered. And when they are, they cannot fail but to amaze and impress, with their history that thrills, and their sheer charm.
This page, top left clockwise: Castelo de Elvas; despite the grandeur of the city, the locals live a simple life; the Aqueduto da Amoreira, the largest acqueduct on the Iberian peninsula, built between 1537 and 1622; Nossa Senhora da Graça Forte
THIS YEAR, FASHION HOUSE KOZII IS CELEBRATING ITS 10TH ANNIVERSARY WITH THE NEW CAMPAIGN – SALT & SAND – A RETURN TO ITS ROOTS AND A CELEBRATION OF COLOUR, LIGHTNESS, AND TIME WELL LIVED. THE LOOK IS IRRESISTIBLE; THE STORY INSPIRATIONAL
KOZII-ING UP
THE SALT & SAND PRODUCTION TEAM
Production: Kozii | Photography: Rui Aguiar
Makeup (MUA): Nana Benjamin | Hair: Ana Fernandes | Styling: Cecília Telo | Video:
Filipe Pires | Models: Anastasia, Luísa Beirão, Laura Silva (Karacter Agency) |
Production Assistants – Kozii Team: Nuno Campos, Ana Lopes, Catarina Duarte
ADECADE OF TRAVEL and discovery, of craftsmanship turned into wearable art, and of a deep commitment to conscious beauty has put Kozii up there as a leader in original, mindful fashion. Rich in textures that tell stories, and a bridge between worlds, this is a label wrapped in a personality that stitches ideas together, honours traditions, and creates garments that transcend seasons and borders. With years of tireless research, inspiring journeys, and an unshakable commitment to beauty that respects both people and the planet, founder and design supremo Cecelia Telo has created something that is exceptional.
The new collection
Salt & Sand SS25 is an emotional return to the essence of the brand and a tribute to its origins, a vibrant recap that embraces Kozii’s core: it is the distillation of ten years of aesthetic and ethical exploration, respect for process and for the hands that create, and a deep love for the world’s textile traditions.
Kozii was born, grew, and opened its very first doors in Tavira, and returned there to photograph the new campaign in the surreal salt flats that surround the city, reuniting the original creative team who helped shape its first campaign.
The technique
Over the past ten years, Kozii has embraced traditional textile techniques from across the globe – from batik to ikat, clamp dye, indigo, mud resist, and khaki dye. These practices remain part of the visual and artisanal language and continue to enrich the identity of the brand.
Salt & Sand has been created entirely with the ancestral technique that marked the beginning of the Kozii journey – block printing, an art that demands time, precision, and the hands of skilled artisans. The vibrant patterns and natural fabrics reflect the warmth of summer and the soul of the brand, with a luminous palette that invites movement, self-expression, and celebration of the now.
The stores
Walking into a Kozii store is much more than shopping – the spaces are designed to be immersive where you can touch, feel and connect with the universe of the brand: from natural fabrics to the handcrafted artistry behind each print, the scent of bespoke Kozii fragrance, the texture of handwoven fabrics, and the colours and silhouettes that tell stories from Rajasthan to the Algarve, from the natural to the sophisticated, from the simple to the extraordinary.
ART
WITH A MESSAGE
VANESSA BARRAG Ã O WORKS EXCLUSIVELY WITH RECYCLED DEAD YARN AND HER PIECES ARE DESIGNED TO CREATE AN ONGOING AWARENESS OF OUR FRAGILE ENVIRONMENT AND THE DEVASTING EFFECTS OF CLIMATE CHANGE, ESPECIALLY TO CORAL REEFS AND MARINE LIFE
Words: BEN AUSTIN
Handcrafts of old, including latch hook, crochet, felt, weaving, embroidery and macramé, are worked into every piece; colour and texture form the framework for individual stories that convey a distinct message
VANESSA
Barragão is the darling of the Algarve, a home-grown young talent, with a flourishing international reputation.
In the past few years, she has had exhibitions at the Centro de Artes e Ofícios – Maré (2023) – and at Centro Cultural de Lagos – Submerso Imerso (2024) – and more recently a showcase at the Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve resort, and at Bienal de Arte e Design do Funchal, Madeira. Vanessa’s work has been previously exhibited at the prestigious Serralves Museum, Porto, and she has a major piece at Heathrow Airport. Last year, she made headlines when one of her pieces was added to the permanent collection of the United Nations, gifted by Portugal. Vanessa has recently become a mother and her new solo exhibition has just opened in the Central Square of the Colombo shopping centre in Lisbon.
When I was first introduced to Vanessa’s work, nearly five years ago, her studio was a modest shop unit in the backstreets of Albufeira where, with her small team made up in part of family members, she produced mainly custom-made tapestries, working with various textile techniques based on ancestral practices, such as latch hook, crochet, felt, weaving, embroidery and macramé. I immediately recognised not only the talent and the passion, but the genuine concerns for conservation.
The learning curve
Vanessa Barragão was born in Albufeira in 1992 and spent her early years exploring the abundant coastline of the Algarve, leading to a profound connection to the ocean. She achieved a Masters degree in fashion and textile design at Lisbon University, exploring the possibilities of yarn and tapestries with an interest in sustainability and ecology.
Vanessa explains the origins of her inspiration: “In my childhood, I used to travel a lot with my parents to the Caribbean, where I got very excited about seeing coral reefs in Jamaica for the first-time. This experience stays in my mind like a photograph. All the colours and life present there... it was the most impressive and beautiful thing I have ever seen.
“Year after year we visited the same area, and the degradation of the coral reefs was
There is a great legacy of artisanal craft within Portuguese culture which has been reimagined and repurposed into a contemporary context.
more in evidence every time, with the corals losing their colours. The loss of biodiversity troubled me greatly.”
The demand for Vanessa’s work has steadily grown over the years, leading her to expand her studio. She now works out of a large industrial unit on the outskirts of Albufeira. The scale may have increased, but the tightknit family feel remains. If you are intrigued to see the process, how the pieces are constructed at first hand, one can book a studio tour (around €20 per person) which takes place on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11h00 and 15h00. This is a wonderful experience, with a small area by the entrance showcasing a traditional wooden loom and other artisan artifacts from a bygone era.
Vanessa always wanted to make her artwork accessible and even affordable; last year, the studio released a limited-edition series, which of course very quickly sold out. This should come as no surprise as she has a massive social media following with 578k on Instagram alone. Her content, as you can imagine, is carefully curated and visually stunning.
There you will see her artistic development over time, from the tapestries and rugs to the more ambitious installation pieces, which are best seen in the round. They are three dimensional oval forms suspended with long fabric elements hanging down. In addition, Vanessa has incorporated metalwork wrapped in fabric. These organic branch-like structures respond and interact with the forms, creating a visual language which moves her art beyond
A tour of Vanessa Barragão’s studio is a real experience. There you will see the work in progress and also understand the message behind this special talent’s inspiration
the tapestries and wall hangings. The metal twisted ‘branches’ are reminiscent of dead or dying coral. Vanessa adds constructed seaweed ‘leaves’ that are limp and faded, yet these outgrowths still have ‘life’ or the potential for renewal.
Taking shape
Vanessa’s pieces are recognisable as organic forms, but there is something fantastical to the work... an otherworldliness. They appear almost alien, like the strange species and creatures found in the depths of the oceans.
Vanessa resists a literal representation of the natural world in favour of a more abstracted interpretation. The colours, the pattern and composition rendered in textile and metalwork can be appreciated as a complete artwork, whereby nothing can be added or removed. The pieces exist independently yet can form part of a larger installation, a spatial relationship, an interconnectivity that relates to our ecosystem at large.
The methodical technique of production, the demand of the material means that Vanessa is completely absorbed and engaged with each creation. This is a time-consuming procedure, there are no short cuts. Practice and patience being vital to the making.
Famous names
There is a great legacy of artisanal craft within Portuguese culture which has been reimagined and repurposed into a contemporary context. The late great Paula Rego incorporated textile elements into work, referring to these pieces as ‘dolls’ and often exploring imagery of fairy tales with a focus on the female protagonists. Joana Vasconcelos, likewise, employs textiles as a central element in her artistic language, challenging the stereotype of domestic labour often associated as ‘women’s work’.
Vasconcelos’ recent Valkyries series (the name in Norse mythology for a powerful female figure who guides the souls of fallen heroes to Valhalla), are monumental installations, creatures made of fabrics, lace, embroidery, wool, sequins, beads, feathers, and LED. These luminous Valkyries are dedicated to strong women, of almost mythic stature, including the philosopher and feminist Simone de Beauvoir, the resistance fighter Catherine Dior and Elizabeth ‘Mumbet’ Freeman, a major figure in the abolitionist movement.
Many people consider Barragão to be the
voice of the next generation of Portuguese female artists, working with an “organic aesthetic inspired by marine biodiversity”.
These are disturbing times, and this is a pressing issue. Last month, at the UN Oceans Conference in Nice, the Prince of Wales interviewed the veteran broadcaster and naturalist, Sir David Attenborough, who reported that: “what we have done to the deep ocean floor is just unspeakably awful… If you did anything remotely like it on land, everybody would be up in arms.”
Sir David’s new documentary, draws attention to the potential damage from some fishing practices, like bottom trawling, for marine life and the ability of the ocean to lock up planet-warming carbon. The ocean is crucial for the survival of all organisms on the planet, a major contributor to the world economies (estimated €2.2 trillion) and provides up to 80% of the oxygen we breath. One of the key goals of UN Oceans Conference is to get the High Seas Treaty –an agreement signed two years ago to put 30% of the ocean into protected areas. Coral reefs are one of the first indicators of climate change; for the past 20 years they have been subject to mass bleaching and mortality due to extreme temperatures.
Coral reefs are the proverbial ‘canary in the coal mine’ and hence form the basis for Vanessa’s examination and artistic interpretation of the climate crisis effects. Ocean acidification, often called the ‘evil twin’ of change, is caused when carbon dioxide is rapidly absorbed by the ocean, where it reacts with water molecules leading to a fall in the pH level of the seawater.
At a time when so-called climate activists, like Greta Thunberg, are more concerned with performative protests than bringing attention to this threat, it is left to artists and filmmakers to get the message across.
For Vanessa, these disturbing issues are central to her practice, but beyond the farreaching implications there is also a deeply personal perspective; her Maré is inspired by the “movements of the tides, evoking cycles of arrival or departure, personal transformation and the passage of time.”
Maré at the Tivoli Carvoeiro is open until the end of July. Vanessa’s exhibition at the Colombo shopping centre runs until the end of August. For studio tour bookings and appointments contact: vanessabarragao.info@gmail.com Instagram @vanessabarragao_work At first glance, a mere PIECE, but look closely...
IN STORE
... keeping every bottle at its best
Words: LÍVIA MOKRI
AS SOMEONE who has spent years surrounded by barrels, bottles, and the beautiful landscapes of Portuguese wine country, I’m here to joyfully explain how to store each type of wine to protect its character and charm. Wine is a living thing – it changes over time. Proper storage ensures that those changes are positive, allowing the wine to mature gracefully. Improper storage, on the other hand, can turn a €50 bottle of vintage Dão into a flat, lifeless disappointment.
RED WINE
Storage temperature: 12–18°C
Red wines tend to be robust and benefit from slightly warmer storage than whites. Young reds – like many Alentejo blends –can be consumed within a few years and should be stored in a cool, dark place, such as a cupboard or under-the-stairs wine rack.
Mature reds from the Douro or Dão, especially those with ageing potential, deserve a wine fridge or cellar to avoid temperature swings.
Reds with high tannins (like Bairrada’s Baga) age longer and need extra care –investing in a stable storage solution helps preserve their potential. Look around and buy the best.
My recommendation: Quinta da Formigosa red 2021, Quinta da Formigosa, from Douro
The flagship wine of Quinta da Formigosa is a blend of classic Douro varieties, harvested by hand and aged in French oak. Aromas of forest fruits, toast, cocoa, and damp earth on the nose; very harmonious, intense and complex on the palate, with discreet acidity, medium body, and a finish with seductive dryness. This one goes very well with a chickpea curry.
White wines are typically fresher and more delicate. Wines like Vinho Verde are best consumed young and benefit from cool storage to maintain their crisp acidity. If you don’t have a wine fridge, the bottom shelf of your kitchen refrigerator works for short-term storage (a few weeks), but not for months, as fridge air is too dry for cork longevity.
A structured white like Encruzado or a barrel-aged Arinto from Bucelas may age a few years and should be kept in a stable, cooler environment – ideally a proper wine cabinet.
My recommendation: Ribeiro Santo Envelope White by Magnum Vinhos, from Dão
This citrusy-coloured wine is made from Encruzado, the main white grape variety of the region. It presents delicate aromas with notes of white fruit, aromatic herbs,
THE GOLDEN RULES OF WINE STORAGE
Regardless of the type of wine, some rules apply across the board:
Temperature stability: The ideal temperature range for wine storage is around 12–15°C. More important than exact temperature is consistency – big fluctuations can damage the wine.
Avoid light: Ultraviolet light, especially sunlight, degrades wine. That’s why most wine is in dark bottles. Store bottles in the dark or dim conditions.
Humidity matters: Between 60 and 70% humidity keeps corks from drying out. However, too much humidity can promote mold.
No vibrations: Vibrations disturb the wine’s ageing process. Store bottles where they won’t be shaken or moved often.
Bottle position: Store bottles with corks on their side to keep the cork moist. Screwcap wines can be stored upright.
and a mineral profile. On the palate, it shows complexity and freshness, with minerality and refreshing citrus acidity. portugalvineyards.com/en/ dao/12121-ribeiro-santo-envelopewhite-2019-5600000000165.html
ROSÉ WINE
Storage temperature: 10–12°C
Rosé wines are usually meant to be consumed within a year or two of bottling. Store them like whites: cool and dark. Because rosé is prone to losing its bright fruit character over time, it’s best not to cellar it too long. If the rosé comes in a clear bottle, make sure it’s well away from any light exposure.
My recommendation: Cabrita Rosé by Cabrita Wines, from the Algarve
A light pink coloured wine, made from the Negra Mole and Touriga Nacional grapes. It presents fresh and delicate fruity aromas. On the palate, a vibrant wine with light floral notes. Elegant flavours with a satisfying acidity. cabritawines.com/product/classic-rosewine/
SPARKLING WINE
Storage temperature: 6–10°C
Sparkling wines are sensitive to light and temperature. The bubbles, created by pressure, can be lost if the bottle gets too warm. Store your espumante like you would a fine Champagne: cool, horizontal, and out of light. Sparkling wine does not typically improve with age unless it’s a vintage style, so enjoy it within a year or two of purchase.
Never store sparkling wine in the kitchen, which often fluctuates in temperature. A cool pantry or dedicated wine fridge is best. My recommendation: Czar Grand Cuvée Rosé Bruto Espumante by Murganheira, from Távora-Varosa
This rosé nectar results from the excellent Pinot Noir grape. It reveals great elegance and finesse, with the variety gracefully appearing in aromas of raspberry and cherry. On the palate, voluminous and mature, it shows a beautiful acid balance that prolongs and refreshes. Despite its freshness, it has fine bubbles and a creamy mousse that gives it a lot of delicacy.
Storage temperature: 10–16°C Portugal shines in this category. Fortified wines are stronger in alcohol and have been stabilized during production, which makes them more resistant to poor storage than table wines. Still, for best results, keep them upright (to prevent leakage due to high alcohol) and in a stable environment.
Vintage Port should be laid down on its side and can benefit from decades of careful ageing. Store it in a cellar or wine cabinet. Tawny Port and 10/20-year aged Moscatel are already matured and ready to drink. Store upright and consume within a few years of purchase.
Madeira is famously indestructible thanks
to its heating process, but even so, cooler, stable storage helps retain finesse.
After opening, fortified wines last longer than table wine – anywhere from a week to a few months, depending on the style.
My recommendation: Miles 5 Years Dry Madeira by Madeira Wine Company, from Madeira
Topaz coloured wine with golden reflections. Characteristic Madeira bouquet of dried fruits, wood and orange peel. Dry and very fresh on the palate, with a long and oaky aftertaste. Excellent on its own, as an aperitif, but it goes well with nuts, duck pie, sushi, fish, very wellseasoned meats, or even a hamburger. jmv.pt/product/miles-finest-5-anos-seco
NATURAL AND ORANGE WINES
Storage temperature: 10–14°C
These wines are often unfiltered and can be more sensitive to heat and oxygen. Store them like whites, with a slight lean toward cooler red wine temperatures if they’re structured or tannic. Because of their unique microbiological profiles, stability is essential. A cool wine fridge or cellar is ideal.
These wines can be more volatile once opened – consume within two to three days, or use a wine preserver to extend their life. My recommendation: Herdade da Rocha Amphora Branco by Herdade da Rocha, from Alentejo
This wine is a distinct blend of white grapes from ancient vineyards, which was carried out in clay amphora. On the nose, it shows minerality, concentration, white fruit and clay notes. On the palate, it is a fresh wine with a long and challenging finish. herdadedarocha.pt/products/herdade-darocha-amphora-branco
HOW TO STORE OPEN BOTTLES
Each type of wine reacts differently after opening:
Red: keeps 3–5 days with a cork or stopper; store in a cool, dark place.
White and Rosé: keep in the fridge, good for 3–5 days.
Sparkling: best within 1–2 days; use a sparkling wine stopper.
Fortified wine: Port and Madeira can last 1–3 months refrigerated.
Natural/Orange wine: 2–3 days max, and watch for off aromas. Use vacuum pumps or inert gas sprays to extend freshness, especially for pricier bottles.
STARRY STARRY NIGHTS
THE WORLD’S FIRST ‘ STARLIGHT TOURISM DESTINATION ’ PROTECTS PORTUGAL’S STARRY SKIES AND INSPIRES WONDER. IT ’ S A MISSION DRIVEN BY PASSION, SCIENCE, AND A DEEP LOVE FOR THE LANDSCAPE. AND THE SKY IS NOT THE LIMIT
AS A TEENAGER I remember being suitably impressed when my boyfriend at the time bought me a star in the sky for my birthday (sure beats a box of chocolates and a cuddly toy!). It was right up there next to Orion’s belt, and I often wonder what has become of my little star. I lost the certificate and can’t remember the name of it, but don’t tell him! I’m especially reminded of it when I’m in Portugal, gazing up at the glorious, uninterrupted night sky – so much richer with stars than the one in central London.
Stars are a magical reminder that there’s something a lot bigger than us out there. They’ve been a comfort to me in times of distress. My father passed away in the Algarve one August and I’ll never forget walking in solitude down to the beach the next night. Sitting on the sand, through my teary eyes, I was greeted by shooting stars (thanks to the annual Perseid meteor shower). It almost felt like he was putting on a show up there just for me. Being able to see the stars is a treat we don’t often get to indulge in, as our urban environments sprawl ever-increasingly outwards, and artificial light engulfs the surroundings. Our modern towns and cities pulse with light and the night sky fades to a dull haze, but there is a special place where the stars still reign supreme. In the vast, rolling heart of Portugal’s Alentejo region, award-winning Dark Sky® Alqueva offers a rare and dazzling opportunity to look up and wonder.
Starring roles
Founded and created by Apolónia Rodrigues in 2007, Dark Sky Alqueva is the world’s first ‘Starlight Tourism
Destination’; a title that recognises the quality and clarity of its night skies. Rebecca Slade is their Sustainability and Activities Coordinator, and a long-standing team member. “The main mission,” she explains, “is to preserve the darkness and raise awareness about the importance of reducing light pollution.”
At its core, Dark Sky Alqueva spans a sweeping territory wrapped around Alqueva Lake, Europe’s largest artificial reservoir. The lake’s sparkling waters cover five Alentejo municipalities and form a natural border between Portugal and Spain, meaning the surrounding lands, dotted with medieval villages like Monsaraz, ancient olive groves, and cork forests, remain astonishingly free from artificial light.
But keeping the darkness intact isn’t easy, as urban expansion continues to increase. “We work with lots of different municipalities,” Rebecca says. “The political scene changes every four years, so we’re constantly rebuilding relationships.”
Despite these challenges, Dark Sky Alqueva has steadily grown, expanding its protected territory and becoming a beacon for sustainable, experience-driven tourism.
In 2011, after years of careful collaboration with Spain’s Starlight Foundation (supported by, among others, UNESCO and UNWTO), the area received its official certification as the world’s first Starlight Tourism Destination. Today, Alqueva’s skies boast some of the best conditions for stargazing anywhere in the world, with an astounding 286 clear nights per year.
At the heart of the project lies the Dark Sky Alqueva Observatory in the small town of Cumeada, near Reguengos de Monsaraz. Opened in 2015 inside a renovated village school, the observatory has become
PLUS a destination for astro-tourists from across the globe, from Europe to as far away as Singapore. Armed with top-of-the-line telescopes, a small but passionate team leads intimate night sessions, welcoming around 15 people per session. “We want it to feel personal,” Rebecca explains. “You’re not just being shown the stars – you’re immersed in them.”
So much more
The observatory is just one facet of the experience. Thanks to a network of partnerships along the Alqueva Dark Sky Route, visitors can combine stargazing with activities like night canoeing under the stars (sign me up for this one!), sunset boat trips (and this one), moonlit horse rides, night hikes, and even sunrise hot air balloon rides. Fans of the natural world can also take part in astrophotography workshops, solar observations, and even hold pieces of the cosmos itself – real meteorites that have fallen to Earth. “People come for the stars, but they leave with so much more,” Rebecca smiles.
Accommodation is provided through a range of local hotels and rural retreats, many of which have adapted their lighting to protect the night sky. Dark Sky Alqueva works closely with local businesses (with the help of light pollution scientists), consulting on everything from outdoor lighting to the best stargazing spots. “We try to raise awareness about reducing lighting, both public and private,” Rebecca says. “Even simple things like shading streetlights, or having them functioning at 10% of their maximum, can make a huge difference.” Rural hotels
This is an experience few people elsewhere ever get the oportunity to enjoy, but here in Portugal, it is made possible, almost year round, in the world’s first Starlight Tourism Destination, where every day – or rather night – is different. This could be the greatest add-on to your trip to the Alentejo, where scientists, organisers and local businesses are clearly focused on protecting their incredible environment
and traditional estates in towns like Alandroal, Moura, and Barrancos offer late-night meal options, picnic packs to take on your stargazing trips, astronomy guides, and ‘smart lighting’ systems that shield the heavens from unnecessary glow.
One of the highlights of the year, when it happens, is the Dark Sky Party, a free two-night celebration under the stars. Stargazing sessions, food trucks, night canoeing, live entertainment, and solar observation by day make it a true festival of the skies. But for Rebecca, who grew up in the region, every night offers its own magic.
“Every day is different, you’re never looking up at the same sky. For me, I love the winter sky, the constellations are just beautiful. There’s no heat in the air during the day to end up suspended in the atmosphere that night, and the transparency of the sky is like you could just reach up and touch the stars. It’s stunning”. She adds: “In the summer, looking straight up into the centre of the Milky Way is another view you just can’t put into words.”
Rebecca’s top tip is to avoid booking a stargazing session on a full moon. “If you have the moon in the sky, because of the light, it makes it a little bit harder to see when you’re expecting a sky full of stars.”
In a time when true darkness is becoming a rare luxury, Dark Sky Alqueva serves as a luminous reminder of what we stand to lose, and what we can do to protect the evergiving night sky.
need-to-knows
WHERE
Alentejo region, southern Portugal – about two hours north of Faro by car.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Year-round. Summer (July–September) offers warm nights and spectacular meteor showers like the Perseids. Winter provides long, clear nights perfect for deep-sky observation.
GETTING THERE
Drive north via the A2 motorway, then east along the IP2 toward Beja and Reguengos de Monsaraz. If you are on holiday and without wheels, car hire is essential, as public transport options are limited in rural areas.
WHAT TO DO
Stargazing nights at the Dark Sky Observatory in Cumeada.
Night canoeing under the stars at Alqueva Lake. Sunset boat cruises and sunrise hot air balloon rides. Wander historic villages like Monsaraz, Mourão, and Alqueva.
Capture the Milky Way with astrophotography workshops led by experts.
WHERE TO STAY
Boutique hotels, countryside estates, and ecolodges on the Dark Sky Route, specially certified to minimise light pollution and maximize views.
TIPS
Nights cool off even after hot days, take a jacket. Booking experiences in advance is highly recommended, especially from June to September.
Have a go C
WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU TRIED SOMETHING NEW JUST FOR THE SHEER JOY OF IT? THIS SUMMER IN THE ALGARVE, SO MANY CREATIVE ADVENTURES AWAIT – NO EXPERIENCE NEEDED, JUST A BIT OF CURIOSITY AND A WILLINGNESS TO EXPLORE
Words: CHRISTINA MORENO
REATIVITY is at the heart of what makes us human –and it’s now more valuable than ever. Engaging in creative pursuits can boost happiness, reduce stress, and sharpen your mind. Learning something new brings confidence, a sense of accomplishment and, delightfully, a brighter outlook on life.
In today’s world of constant notifications and information overload, it’s easy to feel perpetually busy and disconnected. That’s why it’s more important to reconnect with ourselves, and rediscover the simple joy of learning or making something purely for our own pleasure.
The best part? We don’t need experience or special talent to be creative – research shows that the real key to unlocking your artistic potential is openness in the form of embracing new experiences. And that’s where trying a class for the first time comes into play and makes an impression.
No matter what new activities you pursue this summer, the science is clear: spending time outdoors not only enhances wellbeing, it also fuels our creative spirit.
Nature has a remarkable way of helping us clear mental clutter and come up with fresh ideas. Even a stroll through a nearby park can elevate our mood and refresh our focus. And summer is an ideal season to dive into classes that nurture your creativity and help you discover new passions.
Inspiration doesn’t always strike out of the blue – sometimes, you have to seek it out. That’s the magic of best-selling author Julia Cameron’s Artist Dates, a weekly solo adventure designed to spark creativity, whether it’s browsing a local gallery, journaling in a sunny café, snapping photos in the streets of a charming town, or wandering a traditional Saturday market in the Algarve. Pairing artist dates with summer classes makes for a powerful combination; while classes can teach new skills, artist dates give you space to reflect, absorb, and let your imagination roam.
Where to find classes
7 REASONS TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW THIS SUMMER
A Dose of Adventure: Trying something new adds excitement and a sense of adventure to your days.
A Splash of Positivity: Say hello to good vibes – learning keeps your mind engaged and your spirits high.
A Boost of Happiness: Learning new things simply makes you happier. Science says so!
A Slice of Pride: You know that buzz of pride when you master a new skill? Go ahead, impress yourself!
A Dash of Glow-Up: Grow, shine, and express yourself in ways you never imagined.
A Door to New Opportunities: Learning a new skill can lead to unexpected friendships, hobbies, or even new ways of thinking.
A Mind Workout: Give your brain a different workout! Learning keeps your mind healthy and sharp.
A few artist date ideas...
Visit Art Catto, In the Pink, Mina de Sal Gema and Convento do Espírito Santo Galleries in Loulé and share your experience with a friend.
Take a drive out to Paderne, wander around and then stop in at the eclectic Côrte-Real Gallery nearby.
Browse the bustling Saturday market in Loulé or the vibrant Artists and Fleas Market in Olhão and soak in the sights, sounds, and smells.
Capture the golden cliffs at Ponta da Piedade in Lagos or Benagil in Lagoa, or the sea-carved arches of Praia dos Três Irmãos in Portimão with your camera.
Spend an afternoon among peacocks at Jardim da Alameda João de Deus in Faro or in the gardens of Estoi Palace. Bring your favourite book and a picnic.
Take your journal or sketchbook to a nice café like Café Calcinha in Loulé, Café DaRosa in Silves, the little stalls at Fábrica in Cacela Velha or República 14 in Olhão. Wander around Vila Adentro in Faro and discover something you have never noticed before.
PLEASE NOTE: Most classes require advance booking and may have minimum or maximum group sizes, so it’s best to reserve your spot early to avoid disappointment. All classes featured are open to every skill level – no prior experience needed.
THE ART STUDIO, TAVIRA
Watercolour Landscapes
Dates: Thursdays, July and August Time: 17h30–19h00
Cost: €25 (includes all materials)
Stamping Hour
Dates: Fridays, July and August Time: 17h30–19h00
€30 (Cocktails/Beverages included)
Contact: theartstudiotavira.com
WEAVE DECK, BOLIQUEIME
Ready to spin some magic this summer? Join fibre and textile artist Jane Preza at Weave Deck Studio in Boliqueime for hands-on workshops that will have you weaving like a pro in no time.
Circular Weaving Workshop
Dates: July 3, 10h00–13h00
Beginners Tapestry Workshop
Dates: August 7, 09h30–13h00
Cost: €50 (includes all materials as well as a take-home booklet)
Contact: weavedeck.com
VILA VITA PARC, PORCHES
Paint your own ‘azulejo’ tile
Discover the traditional art of 17thcentury tile painting as you recreate classic azulejos featuring themes from local flora and fauna. Guided by expert instruction, you’ll craft your own unique tile masterpiece – a beautiful and personal piece of Portuguese heritage to take home.
Dates: July 7, 14, 21
Time: 11h00
Cost: €65 (includes all materials)
Dreams on Canvas - Art Class
Dates: Wednesdays, July and August
Time: 10h30
Cost: €85 (includes all materials) Contact: vilavitaparc.com/en/experiences
LIGHTHOUSE SKETCHWALKS FARO AND OLHÃO
Lighthouse Art Courses blend creativity with adventure, inviting you to discover or refine your artistic skills while connecting deeply with the Algarve’s stunning landscapes. With an emphasis on joyful, relaxed, and spontaneous expression, Lighthouse encourages you to embrace the creative process, step outside your comfort zone, and see the region through the eyes of creativity. The core philosophy is simple: let go of doubts about not being ‘skilled enough’ and just begin – there’s no pressure and no expectation of perfection, only the joy of creating.
Sketchwalk – Olhão
Dates: July 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 or 13
Time: 10h00–13h00
Cost: €55
Sketchwalk – Faro
Dates: July 15, 16 or 17
Time: 10h00–13h00
Cost: €55
Contact: lighthouse-artcourses.com
LOULÉ CRIATIVO - A CREATIVE HUB IN CENTRAL ALGARVE
Loulé Criativo is a dynamic initiative that brings together artisans, artists, and curious minds through hands-on workshops, exhibitions, and cultural events. Whether you’re eager to try your hand at traditional crafts, discover contemporary art, or simply soak up the creative energy, Loulé Criativo offers a unique invitation to connect with the Algarve’s vibrant cultural scene. Check out their website for up-to-date offerings. And the Agenda pages in every issue of AlgarvePLUS.
Contact: loulecriativo.pt
THE SPACE – A CREATIVE HUB IN LAGOS
This welcoming venue hosts an inspiring mix of workshops, art exhibitions, and wellness events, making it the perfect spot to explore new skills or simply connect with like-minded locals. Whether you’re interested in painting, yoga, or creative writing, The Space offers a warm, inclusive atmosphere where everyone is encouraged to learn, share, and grow. Up-to-date information is available on their website.
Contact: thespacelagos.com
CABAÇAS DO AMOR GOURD WORKSHOPS, ALGOZ
Join artist Sara Baronete for a creative journey painting birdhouses, masks, or gourds, with sessions available in English, Portuguese, Dutch, German, French, or Italian. You are also invited to immerse yourself in a vibrant full-day experience filled with colour, atmosphere, and relaxation, where you can paint and decorate a gourd to craft a stunning lamp from it.
Dates: July 3, 4, 6, 8
Time: 11h00–17h30
Cost: €45 (half day, painting only), €75 (full day, making lamp). Both include all materials, delicious Portuguese snacks/ food and drinks and the company of donkeys and dogs.
Contact: 965 325 450 cabacas.do.amor@gmail.com
THE GLASS HOUSE, LAGOS
These relaxing mosaic sessions run year-round but in the summer months, they are run under a carob tree. Using stained glass offcuts and a 15x15 glass tile, you’ll create a beautiful mosaic in just three hours, making it a memorable and creative activity. Sessions can be booked individually or for groups. Perfect for families, friends, or anyone looking to meet new people, for a fun, hands-on experience.
If you’re curious or passionate about photography and eager to elevate your street photography skills, consider a private or small group workshop with professional photographer Vitor Pina this summer. Available by appointment, these hands-on sessions offer personalised guidance and creative inspiration. Vitor also teaches classes through Loulé Criativo, making it easy to find a format that suits you. For a glimpse of his distinctive style, explore his work on Instagram at @algarvios.
Dates: Various
Contact: 929 112 824 / vitorpina.com
XISTO
LAST MONTH, KATHRYN BARNARD INTRODUCED US TO THE DELIGHTS OF A NEW BAKERY IN TAVIRIA. DAVID CAMPUS OF AUSTA IN ALMANCIL SHARES HER VIEWS ON THIS SPECIAL FIND, AND IS ALREADY MAKING XISTO A FIRM FAVOURITE.
Photography: KATHRYN BARNARD
ALOT OF good tips get passed around in the Algarve – through the bubbling network of fellow hospitality folks here who we trust intrinsically with their reccs. True to form, everyone’s always got an eye out for what’s new and exciting, especially when it comes to food done with care.
It was a sunny Saturday as we hopped out of the car and wandered through one of the countless flower gardens of Tavira, winding through the cobbled streets, following the scent of bubbling butter, toasted bread and sugar.
Tucked just off a quiet tree-lined street, with no big sign, no scene, Xisto is decked out front with a façade of blue tiles and pretty benches. As we enter, Abigail Fenwick and Erik Osberg, the founders of Xisto, are hard at work.
Compact and full of life, the tiled counter is stacked high with the kind of baked goods that makes
you rethink everything you thought you came to order. Cardamom buns glistening with glaze, almond croissants flaking onto the counter, rows of buttery cookies, and a few pastries we didn’t recognise but immediately needed to try. Behind the counter, stainless steel racks dotted with beautiful, burnished loaves of sourdough, and above those, a tidy row of bubbling ferments – citrus, krauts, something with chillies.
We sat on a central sharing table of hand-painted tiles as the sun streamed through the open window and dug in. Our coffee and pastries arrived on plates and cups from the nearby Saturday flea market – mismatched in the best possible way. It’s a detail that perfectly matches the vibe here: thoughtful, unfussy, but full of understated, rustic character.
The cardamom bun lived up to its newly-told legend – soft and sticky with just enough spice to keep you going back for another bite. The almond croissant was rich
FOOD
Pastries, breads, breakfast, lunch, snacks, all home made, all delicious
DECOR
Laid back, easygoing, with tables to share (should you choose). Tiles tell a story. PRICE Coffee and pastry, allow €5.
but balanced, with a proper crackle on top and soft layers inside. We had coffee (excellent), and shared a couple of those buttery cookies that somehow tasted nostalgic and brand new at the same time.
Tums full, we chatted with Erik and Abigail, the pair behind it all, alongside Erik’s brother who is helping them achieve their new dream. They are Canadians with serious baking chops. They’ve worked all over – from Scotland to Sweden to Milan and back to Canada – at big time high integrity bakeries such as de Superette in Belgium, Wild Hearth and bakery47 in Scotland, and it shows in everything they make. But what really sticks with you is how personal this place feels. You can tell they didn’t move here to launch a concept. They just wanted to make good food, in a space that reflects who they are and what they love.
There’s no obvious branding push – just two people doing the work they care about, baking things they love to eat, and inviting the rest of us in. It’s the kind of spot that reminds you how special a bakery can be when it stays small, local, and deeply human.
So yeah, we’ve been back three times this month already, and we’ll be back again. Often. And in the meantime, if you’re anywhere near Tavira (or even if you’re not), go. And please, do go hungry.
Thursday, Friday, Saturday, 08h00–16h00.
XISTO , Av. Dr. Mateus Teixeira de Azevedo 48, Tavira / Open
READY TO ENCHANT
A STYLISH TIME CAPSULE IN THE SLEEPING HEART OF ELVAS, TRAVASSOS 11 IS RICH IN HISTORY, WRAPPED IN MODERN-DAY CHARM, AN AWAY-FROM-IT-ALL HAVEN THAT FULFILLS DREAMS AND CREATES NEW ONES. THIS IS ALENTEJO HERITAGE AT ITS VERY BEST, A SPARKLING GEM WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED
Words: EMMA CAMPUS, DESIGN ESCAPES PORTUGAL
WHEN WE first arrived in Portugal, we were chasing a feeling more than a destination –a pull toward stillness, land, and possibility. Drawn to the vast, golden hush of the Alentejo, we imagined ourselves settling into the opposite of our big city life in London. We spent months searching for our own quiet ruin to restore – exploring the eaves of old convents, traversing overgrown fields of forgotten farmhouses surrounded by sunflower fields and slow-moving cattle. We couldn’t walk down a street or drive past a seemingly abandoned property without slowing down or peering in the windows. We wanted a hidden hideaway to call our own.
That dream still floats somewhere on the horizon as the reality of the challenge is in full swing. But in those early days of wandering, we were inspired by those who had managed to achieve the seemingly impossible. One of those places was Travassos 11. Nestled deep within the historic heart of Elvas, an elegant townhouse that became a bolthole for our imagination, a vivid glimpse of what could be.
A sleeping city, a living house
Elvas itself, as you’ll read in this issue (see page 12), feels suspended in time. Cobbled streets wind beneath balconies hung with drying linen. The pace is slow, measured by the light shifting over ancient rooftops rather than clocks. Grand, noble houses standing silent and sun-kissed, many worn and waiting, their stories trapped in peeling paint and shuttered windows. It’s a town where centuries of simple lives have brushed softly against the edges of history, almost untouched by the rush of the outside world.
And yet, behind one set of ancient wooden doors, on Rua dos Travassos, a different story unfolds. Travassos 11 is not just a restored house – it is a reawakening. The walls hold the weight of generations, but the air inside hums with a renewed energy. It’s a house that remembers the past while inviting you into a carefully curated present.
Design with depth: Álvaro Roquette & L'Éléphant
Carefully renovated by Lisbon natives João and Álvaro, the soul of Travassos 11 is undeniably tied to Álvaro’s visionary, design studio L'Éléphant. His signature maximalist approach is a joyful embrace of layers and colours, and stories meet here with the sober beauty of the house’s heritage.
Everywhere you look in Travassos 11, you’ll discover another bit of history, another modern-day detail, another example of the passion that has gone into creating this very special gem
The first floor feels like stepping into a storybook, where restored frescoes and century-old tiles dance with a combination of old and modern art and luxurious textiles. Every corner is an invitation to linger, with vintage furniture, richly-patterned rugs, and curated curiosities adding texture and warmth.
The centrepiece – the former chapel turned dining room – is a sharp surprise that could force me out of my atheist beliefs: bold yellow walls brighten the space like sunlight, while contemporary portraits frame the altar. It’s here that a candlelit table awaited us for dinner. It was a moment of magic – history and modernity blending seamlessly to create a quiet dining experience that was both sacred and intimate.
Climbing the original staircase to our bedroom, the mood shifts gracefully. The upper bedrooms offer a soothing retreat from the maximalist energy below. We awoke the next amongst whitewashed walls and soft linens that contrast with ancient stone arches and hand-painted wooden wardrobes that bring back that whisper of the past. The design honours the architecture’s integrity while embracing calm minimalism, offering guests a space to truly rest and reflect.
Bathrooms continue the narrative with slabs of local marble from nearby Vila Viçosa, their cool surfaces providing relief from the scorching rising Alentejo sun. These thoughtful touches –marble floors, original beams, hand-painted details – remind you that design here is never about excess but about respectful celebration of place.
A collaborative vision
After a dip in the shaded courtyard pool we chatted with João and Álvaro over breakfast and it became obvious that Travassos 11 is the lovechild of two distinct yet complementary visions. João, a lawyer with roots in Elvas, brings a respect for the town’s quiet dignity.
Álvaro, with his bold creative spirit, infuses the house with personality and flair. Together, they have created a space that balances restraint with exuberance.
They are supported by a dedicated team of locals who manage the housekeeping and kitchen, ensuring that the experience feels warm, personal, and rooted in community. This collective effort breathes life into the house, connecting guests not only to the space but to the people who keep its heart beating.
A refuge and a beacon
For us, Travassos 11 was more than a place to rest - it became a home while we searched for our own future project in the Portuguese countryside. It embodied a quiet hum of creativity that we sensed was returning to these enclaves, where artists and makers come back to restore, reinvent, and create.
Sitting in the morning light that seeped through the dining room windows, our breakfast eaten off table cloths and chintsy china surrounded by exuberant vases, we spoke about this gentle renaissance - how places like Elvas, with their layers of history and slow rhythms, are quietly becoming magnets for new dreams.
Travassos 11 isn’t just a stylish time capsule; it’s a beacon for anyone who longs for connection to history, nature, and the joy of thoughtful living. It’s Portugal’s past brought to the forefront in a way that feels relevant for a revived future.
Even the china and the table linen have their own personality and recognise the eclectic styles of past decades. And that’s what makes this beautiful guest house very much a home
KIT & CABOODLE’S EXCLUSIVE MASTERCLASS WITH ANNIE SLOAN BRAND AMBASSADOR
TRISTAN MERRIAM PROMISES TO DEVELOP AND NURTURE NEW SKILLS WHILE BREATHING LIFE INTO FURNISHINGS READY TO BE RELOVED, RESPECTED, AND APPRECIATED
Kit & Caboodle, the relove leaders in Portugal, will be hosting the very first exclusive edition in Mainland
IEurope.
N A WORLD of fast furniture and throwaway culture, Kit & Caboodle proudly stands out as a champion of sustainability and repurposing. Based in Almancil and Alcantarilha, this hot shop of creativity has a mission – to help people furnish their homes beautifully, consciously and cost effectively through the power of pre-loved and up-cycled furniture.
Reinvention is the passion here – whether it is rescuing a dated dresser or transforming a tired table into a statement piece – the team sees the potential waiting to be discovered in every item. And over the past eight years, they’ve proudly partnered with none other than Annie Sloan, the global icon of decorative paint and the creator of the original Chalk Paint. Without question, the Annie Sloan eco-friendly products and philosophy are the perfect match for Kit & Caboodle’s creative approach.
A brilliant opportunity
Now you can get involved. Coming to the Alcantarilha store, on 9, 10 and 11 October 2025, is a truly special event. Already staged in Australia, India, and across North America, this exclusive programme has brought together creatives and up-cyclers from around the world. And now Kit & Caboodle, the relove leaders in Portugal, will be hosting the very first exclusive edition in Mainland Europe.
At the centre of it all is the incredibly talented Tristan Merriam, Annie Sloan’s Brand Ambassador, professional up-cycler, and workshop leader behind Doghead Designs in Clevedon, UK.
With a background as a headmaster, Tristan’s teaching style is dynamic, inclusive, and packed with personality. He’s known for helping beginners gain confidence and inspiring experienced painters to stretch their skills. You might have even spotted him on the BBC’s Money for Nothing programme.
The complete picture
In what promises to be an amazing learning experience, all materials are provided along with a light lunch, tea, coffee, and of course, some delicious cake. Whether you’re a complete beginner or a practised DIY devotee, the hands-on two-day special on the 9th and 10th, or the one-day session on the 11th will leave you buzzing with inspiration and armed with techniques to transform your own furniture at home.
Says Philippa Taylor of Kit & Caboodle: “We’ve always believed that, with a bit of vision, a splash of paint, and the right guidance, anyone can breathe new life into old pieces. Bring your own piece, and learn the best with the best!”
Tickets are €195 for the Thursday and Friday and €145 for the Saturday. Book early as spaces are limited.
DUTCHMAN WILLIAM (WILL) KÖHLEN FIRST WENT TO LISBON IN 1986 TO LEARN PORTUGUESE BEFORE MOVING TO MOZAMBIQUE TO WORK AS AN ARCHITECT FOR THE CHRISTIAN COUNCIL. TODAY, HE AND HIS WIFE JANINE AND THEIR ADOPTED STREET DOG SAMMY CALL OLH Ã O HOME, AND WILL PRODUCES DIGITAL ARCHITECTURE TOURS FOR RESIDENTS AND VISITORS ALIKE. THIS IS ABOUT HIM...
What profession were you in? I studied architecture at the Maastricht Academy of Architecture, but I didn’t graduate. That never posed a problem in my professional career, which has included working as an architect and urban planning consultant.
In 1985, my partner and I were invited to participate in the Biennale of Young Dutch Architects, a retrospective exhibition held in Amsterdam. We exhibited alongside nine other firms, including notable architects such as Francine Houben of Mecanoo. We participated in national and international architectural competitions and were successful in the competition for ‘Movable Public Spaces’ in Rotterdam and the competition ‘The Fantasy’ in Almere. In the past few years I mostly worked as an urban planning consultant. It’s way more fun than architecture because it covers a much wider range.
Over 12 years at TOPOS Architecture Center Maastricht, I contributed to several publications, including Maastricht NEXT, a 400-page architecture guide featuring 250 projects from the past 25 years.
Why Olhão? We tried other places – like Faro, Tavira, and São Brás – but Olhão felt just right. It’s a small working-class town, unpretentious, raw and authentic, a place of fishermen and smugglers. It has a unique character that we love.
And at República 14, together with Isabel Macieira, I presented two photo exhibitions about Modernist Architecture in Tavira and Olhão. We also led architectural walking tours there, which were a great success.
And that was the start of your tour business? I offer digital architecture tours, with a special focus on mid-century architecture. Faro is home to some of the best examples of this and my website offers a wealth of information about architecture in the Algarve, including videos I’ve created, and updates on contemporary architecture shared via Instagram, Facebook, and blog platforms like Substack. All tours
I’m very connected to Olhão, but when it comes to architecture, Faro is the place to be. There’s so much to discover, especially the work of Manuel Gomes da Costa
in the apps are free, but people can donate ‘a cup of coffee’ as a contribution to the costs.
Who is your biggest audience: Algarve residents or tourists? I created my website specifically for foreign residents in the Algarve. I want to share my knowledge and get people excited about the region’s modernism – especially in Faro.
How much research goes into each tour and where do you start? When I come up with a new idea, I invite my photographer friends, John and Hans, to join me and take photos. I ask them if the concept is also appealing to non-architects. Then I create a digital tour – complete with images, drawings, and supporting materials – and ask my wife and other friends to test it out and give feedback. I rely heavily on online resources and also like to create supporting videos.
Your absolute favourite place here – and why? I’m very connected to Olhão, but when it comes to architecture, Faro is the place to be. There’s so much to discover, especially the mid-century modernist work of Manuel Gomes da Costa, who was one of the most talented architects of his generation in the Algarve. Sadly, much of his work is neglected or poorly renovated. More appreciation and preservation are needed. Christopher and Angelique from The Modernist Hotel are leading by example with their annual Modernist Weekend event in Faro.
What’s next in your plans? My next tour will focus on Lagos, which has a lot of contemporary modernism. I’ll also be covering the SAAL (post1974 revolution, resident-organised social housing) movement and the work of architect José Veloso. If anyone is interested in a specific topic or city, I’d be happy to hear about it (email me at architouralgarve@gmail.com). Currently, I offer tours in Olhão (two tours), Faro (two tours), Fuseta, Loulé, Tavira, Vila Real de Santo António, Portimão, and Huelva, Spain.
ARCHITOUR ALGARVE T: 920 138 084 / E: willkohlen@gmail.com / W: architouralgarve.com For the free Tours, download the free app at pocketsights.com/tour-guide-app
The Levante and the Nortada
THE C Ô RTE-REAL GALLERY HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED IN THE ALGARVE FOR OVER 20 YEARS AND IS FOCUSED ON PROMOTING THE VERY BEST IN INTERNATIONAL ART. DISCOVER GREAT WORKS, LIKE THOSE OF DISTINGUISHED SPANISH ARTIST ANDRES MORENO, IN THE ORIGINAL COUNTRY GALLERY IN PADERNE AND IN THE SECOND GALLERY NOW OPEN IN OLH Ã O
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
is signposted from Boliqueime,
and
OPEN: Thursday to Sunday, 11h30–16h30 The new gallery in Olhão’s Casa Amor boutique hotel is open OPEN: Thursday to Saturday, 10h00–14h00 T: 961 528 679 / corterealarte.com
GALERIA CÔRTE-REAL
Ferreiras
Paderne.
ANDRES GRADUATED from Universidad de Bellas Artes in Tenerife and later gained his MA from Granada. His recent paintings are an emotional response to the Algarve’s faultless coastline. Benefitting from summer sun, soft sand and the consequences of two prevailing winds, his paintings represent his feelings at different times of day. He watches as the scenes unfold while natural forces and people play their parts. Breezes might begin to stir and shift, kites lift into the sky so that an abstract study of the shoreline takes on a literal dimension.
Throughout the summer months, the effect of the Levante can be felt along the Algarve’s south coast. Originating in the Eastern Mediterranean, this wind is funneled through the Straits of Gibraltar where it whips up great eddies. As it is channeled along past Spain it is less tempestuous, but by the time it crosses the border at the River Guadiana its power is reignited. Travelling along in a south westerly direction past the barrier islands of the Ria Formosa it turns a corner at Faro beach where a cross wind creates some turbulence. Now it heads due west along the Algarve’s popular southern coast. Gradually losing some of its force, Andres and his animated beach paintings are able to reflect this change of power.
Dramatically turning the corner at Cape St Vincent and up the west coast the Nortada howls from the north-west. Creating an upwelling of cool water, it strengthens the velocity of the air as it streams along the shoreline. Expert wind and kite surfers take
about the artist
What do you love most about beaches?
The beach is a place surrounded by nature, where you can admire the light, the smells, the movement of the water. Also, it awakens in me the emotions that I try to express in my work.
The horizon features in all your works, what fascinates you most about it?
I always look for abstraction
advantage of the conditions while children flying kites struggle with the tension. Summing up the sensation with bold brushstrokes in his paintings or finding a few well chosen words from A Kite for Aibhin by Ireland’s Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney:
“And now it hovers, tugs, veers, dives askew Lifts itself, goes with the wind Climbing and carrying farther, higher, Unspooling, the kite a thin stemmed flower”
With 200 kilometres of coastline to choose from, 150 named beaches and 88 Blue Flags, Andres acknowledges that he is spoilt for choice. Driven by his emotions, he utilizes a wide colour palette and the predominant use of line, space and perspective effect the way that each canvas develops. Living a simple lifestyle in the border town of Ayamonte, his artistic evolution is always on the move. Currently, it has guided him towards Portugal’s Algarve where his overall aim is to interpret a range of differing atmospheres.
inside the landscape where colour is the predominant factor. The horizon line helps with the composition of the work. And finally, it also creates the division between sky, sea and earth.
What is your favourite time of day to paint?
Without a doubt in the mornings, and on rainy days.
Did you fly a kite as a child? Kitesurfing is something I
would like to learn. These scenes in my paintings are part of our beaches, and I am very lucky to be able to admire them, almost every single day.
What are your preferred materials?
I like to use a number of different techniques – oil, acrylic, collage, etc. Mixed media is my preferred choice today.
THIS LUXURIOUS ALGARVE SUMMER PLATE, CELEBRATING SCENT, TEXTURE, AND LOCAL BOUNTY, COMES FROM JONNIE PRATT, THE MASTER CHEF OF TRIBULUM. “ IT IS A SIMPLE TRIBUTE TO WHAT GROWS JUST OUTSIDE OUR KITCHEN, ” HE SAYS, “ FIG LEAVES STILL WARM FROM THE SUN, PLUMP SUMMER FIGS, TENDER FENNEL BULBS, AND THE LAST OF LAST SEASON’S ALMONDS. IT’S NOT A FANCY PLATE — JUST ONE MADE WITH CARE, PATIENCE, AND A BIT OF PRIDE IN THE LAND THAT GIVES US SO MUCH ”
SERVES 4 COOK 1 HOUR , PLUS PREP
INGREDIENTS
4 skin-on chicken supremes
3 fresh fig leaves, washed (no stems)
500ml whole milk
50g natural yoghurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 bay leaf
150g blanched almonds
200ml homemade chicken stock
1 tbsp good olive oil
¼ tsp lemon zest
Salt and pepper to taste
2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into 1cm-thick wedges
4 ripe figs, quartered
Watercress
Fig leaf oil to finish (rape seed oil infused with fig leaf)
METHOD
1 Gently warm the milk with fig leaves, garlic, and bay leaf to 65°C for 1 hour — do not boil. Leave it to steep and cool off the heat for an hour and strain. It is better to do this two days before.
2 Add the chicken to the marinade, along with the yoghurt, and leave in the fridge overnight for added aroma.
3 The next day, remove the chicken from the marinade and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper.
4 In a wide pan, sear the fennel wedges brushed with olive oil on all sides, do the same with the fig quarters and set on one side.
5 In the same pan, sear the chicken skin-side down until golden and crisp, turn the supremes skin side up and add back in the fennel with the marinade.
6 Next, put the dish into the oven, preheated to 180°C, for 12–15 minutes until cooked through (cut into the breast near the wing bone to check).
7 Remove the chicken and fennel from the pan and leave on one side with the caramelised figs.
8 Blend the cooking liquor with the lemon zest and the almonds that have already been simmered for 20 minutes in chicken stock. Strain this sauce and keep on the side.
To serve: Swipe or spoon almond purée onto the hot plates. Add some watercress, a grilled fennel wedge and roasted fig quarters. Nestle the sliced chicken breast on top. Drizzle with a few drops of fig leaf oil.
Summer Treats
WE ’ VE FOUND PLACES TO STAY AWAY FROM THE CROWDS THAT CREATE SPECIAL MEMORIES, AND RESTAURANTS TO EAT IN THAT PROMISE TO DELIGHT THE TASTEBUDS. ENJOY!
Words:
SANDRA GATO
IN A COUNTRY as summery as Portugal – lovely temperatures from April to October – we have plenty of days to fill with interesting/fun/enriching experiences. So, yes, perfect beach days (sun, swim, cocktails at the sunset) are a must, and the aim is to have as as many of those as possible. But since most of us who live in Portugal are not very far from a beach (sea or river) or a home pool to enjoy a refreshing swim at the end of a working day, we are left with plenty of summer days to fill with different kinds of activities: like heading north to stay in an incredible new nunnery-turned-hotel, immersing in the best that the Algarve has to offer or paying a visit to Lisbon for a very good reason: food.
SLEEPING IN A FORMER NUNNERY
Located up on a hill, Santa Clara Monastery is the first thing you notice when arriving in Vila do Conde – a city half an hour away by car from Porto. The impressive building, with more than 700 years of history within its thick walls, stands above the Ave river, the sea and the city.
Today, as The Lince Santa Clara hotel, the building is perfectly restored (the bars were retained on the supersized windows, for instance), and all the comforts of modern life skillfully added. The stunning end result are 87 glorious rooms, including 11 suites, two restaurants – Mosteiro, that offers a varied selection of Portuguese traditional dishes, and Oculto, the fine dining option where chef Vítor Matos does his Michelin Star magic.
The Aqueduto Wellness & Spa by Sisley Paris is an absolute must. Imagine a premium brand like Sisley Paris coming together with the wisdom and day-to-day tasks of the Poor Clares nuns that used to inhabit the Santa Clara monastery. A true sanctuary for contemplation and inner peace.
Previous page and this page: The Lince Santa Clara in Vila do Conde. Opposite page, top: three views of the Belavista da Luz; below: the Vila Valverde Design & Country Hotel. On page 58: Martinhal in Sagres
Difficult as it is to leave the comfort of the hotel, the city of Vila do Conde, with its fishing port and gothic and romanesque monuments, is worth a visit. Right next to the hotel are two of the city’s main attractions: Santa Clara Church and the aqueduct (considered the third most beautiful in the world by National Geographic magazine). More than enough reasons to head north this summer... thelincehotels.com
ENJOYING THE ALGARVE
Here in the south there are still plenty of wonderful villages and corners that feel authentic, and today we go for two alltime favourites: Praia da Luz and Martinhal (Sagres).
Although it has grown and inevitably changed considerably in the last decades, Praia da Luz was able to keep the feel of a small seaside village with its pretty white houses, beautiful church and the easily accessible beach. A bit too crowded on high season (as most coastal villages), it is ideal in slower months.
Belavista da Luz Wellness and Lifestyle is one of a kind. Located right in the village – just a short walk away from all the restaurants and the beach – it was recently renovated. For those who prefer to avoid the super-sized resort hotels but don’t want to rent a house for their holidays, this is the ideal option: a small modern hotel that takes us back to Miami in the 50s, not because of the pastel Art Deco hues – here the colour chosen is a bright solar orange! – but of the design. It is housed in a beautiful building with rooms facing the swimming pool, and a restaurant that serves mainly breakfast and light meals during the day.
belavistadaluz.com
For those who like to feel the sea nearby but prefer to stay away from all the buzz, a place like Vila Valverde Design & Country Hotel is the solution. A property that goes back to the 19th century, it is dominated by lush green gardens, located close to the beach but far enough from it. On the top floors you can spot the sea at a distance while feeling secluded in what feels like a private house. In fact, it lodges not more than 30 guests at the same time (above 12 years old), so even when going for walks to check the birds or for a swim in the pool, the feeling is always of spending a few days in a family home.
Two different, even complementary ways, of enjoying the beauty of that part of the Algarve – not far from Lagos and the adorable small fishing village known as the Portuguese Santorini: Burgau. vilavalverde.com
LISBON’S NEW HOT (BUT COOL) RESTAURANTS FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT
FYSH BELÉM/MÖTAO LISBOA
Twin restaurants that have older siblings. Serving the best of (national and international) dishes around everything that comes from the sea, Fysh first opened in 2024 in the Saldanha area. Right on time for summer, Fysh Belém was just born, the exact same concept but with the Tagus river as next door neighbour.
Sharing the privileged address is Mötao Lisboa. After the big success of Mötao Vilamoura, the Lisbon venue also serves international food (the menu is asian-based but has other references) and amazing sangrias and cocktails. Fullest.pt
When holidaying with children, Martinhal Sagres Family Beach Resort feels like being on an island without leaving Sagres. With Martinhal beach a few steps away and different kinds of accommodation to choose from – the hotel, ocean houses, villas, garden houses, apartments – it is just a question of making some choices: facing the beach? Private pool? Next to the kids’ club? A 100% family-friendly place that takes care of everything one needs letting the mind free to focus on the important stuff: relax! Martinhal.com
KARATER GEORGIAN BISTRO
Right in the middle of Bairro Alto, a restaurant that many years ago used to be a Leitaria (a place that sold milk and pastries) and, after that, a tavern. Now, a restaurant where chef Guram brings to the table the best of his country, Georgia. If, like me, you never thought what Georgian gastronomy could be like, brace yourself for a big surprise! One of the first words that come to mind to define the menu is freshness: lots of vegetables and fruit that bring out many zesty flavours. Some mouthwatering examples are cottage cheese with mint and pumpkin, chicken salad with nuts and pomegranate, lamb cooked in white wine... ah the wine! Georgian wine will have a moment really soon, mark my words. Karater is a restaurant to put on the top of the “must go when in Lisbon” list.
@karater_lisbon
SHOP TALK
ON A TRIP AND IN A BUYING MOOD? WHETHER YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THAT IDEAL
GIFT FOR SOMEONE SPECIAL, OR A TREAT FOR YOURSELF FOR JUST BEING BRILLIANT, THE CHOICE IS YOURS. THIS MONTH WE EXPLORE THE BEST SHOPPING STREETS IN THE MAJOR CITIES WHERE DESIGNER NAMES AND ARTISAN TALENTS AWAIT
Words: LAURA SHEA
LISBON
When visiting Lisbon, no trip would be complete without a visit to what is undoubtedly the most famous shopping street in Portugal. Avenida da Liberdade is filled with luxury stores, excellent restaurants and stunning architecture, built to envoke feelings of chic Parisian vibes. A beautiful and lush boulevard to wander, you can shop brands such as Cartier, Prada, Dior and Burberry, as well as some more affordable, but high fashion mid-range options. You will find some of the best gift shops here, too, in the little streets off the Avenida offering unusual goods you won’t find elsewhere. After a few hours, stop at any one of the trendy bars for a refreshment and to rest the tired feet, an ideal chance for people watching. The Avenida runs between two notable squares, at the northern end is the Marquis of Pombal Square and the southern end the Restauradores Square, both offering shady areas to relax and much to see including historical statues celebrating the great citizens of the area.
PORTO
Rua de Santa Catarina begins in Batalha Square and is the place to go to peruse a huge selection of stores and products, and to soak up the atmosphere which can be pretty lively at the busy times. Live music and street performers will keep you entertained, and when you need a break and to put the heavy bags down, there is only one place to head to; the Parisian style of Art Nouveau Café Majestic. Indulge in the afternoon tea and then have the perfect French toast dessert, before getting back to the serious business of shopping. Head to the Mercado do Bolhão which is just a short walk from Santa Catarina. This is a huge market, and offers everything from fresh fruit, vegetables and meat to handmade craft items. One thing to always take home is a jar of rosemary honey to use in summer
salads and bbq marinades! Among the many shops worth a visit in Porto are The Feeting Room in Largo dos Lóios for trend-setting collections of shoes, clothes and accessories from independent brands; THE Design in Avenida do Brasil, for great, laid back fashion from international names; and of course, the famous Claus Porto, for soaps and perfumes.
ÉVORA
Évora sits as the historic capital of the stunning Alentejo region and offers tradition and beauty in bucket loads. Cobbled streets and soft, warm colours create a calming vibe here where you can easily lose yourself for hours. In Rua 5 de Outubro there are many shops selling local and handmade items, and the quality is top notch. If you are looking for cork and leather, then you will be spoilt for choice. You will also find gorgeous handpainted ceramics. Buy a selection of small bowls in different designs for a quirky and cute way to serve nibbles at your next gathering, which will obviously include a bottle or two of Alentejo wine! Wandering down the street towards the cathedral, stop at any of the restaurants to refuel with some of the famous black pork of the region with a glass of tawny port to finish. Known for its friendly welcome and vibrant atmosphere, Évora is where tradition is embraced alongside the modern.
Opposite page, top left, clockwise: Cartier in Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon; Claus Porto store in Porto; the Feeting Store in Porto; Comur in Coimbra. This page, above: Dior sunspecs and left: Prada bag, both from Lisbon
COIMBRA
For a day where you can combine a relaxed shopping experience with breathtaking views and rich history, Coimbra is a must visit location (read the inside story in our June issue and at https://isu.pub/bwIGFl4).
With a frontage on the Mondego River, the city is perfect to explore on foot as you will have no shortage of stores, bars, cafes and historical buildings to gaze at. A stop at the Botanical Garden of the University of Coimbra would be the ideal way to finish off a long tiring day of retail therapy. Coimbra offers a sprawling way of shopping, with many quirky independent stores selling vintage clothing, upcycled items for the home and traditional artisan crafts. The usual edible offerings are available such as honey, preserves, oils and sardines, but if you are looking for the more unique shops then there is a plethora on the streets surrounding the Old Cathedral, Rua Ferreira Borges and Praça do Comércio. Beautiful linens can be found here, as well as some eye catching one-off jewellery pieces. There are two malls to visit – Forum Coimbra is downtown and the largest in the area, and in Vale de Flores just on the outskirts is Coimbra Shopping.
CASCAIS
Sitting on the Estoril coast, Cascais offers a brilliant dichotomy of the traditional and modern. The idyllic sandy beaches and trendy bars somehow seamlessly meld into the quintessential cobbled lanes and historic fort. For a shopping trip, there is a wealth of options in the town to suit every taste – for an all-inone experience, then you have the option of a couple of very nice shopping malls, as well. CascaiShopping is the largest of these, on the road to Sintra, which boasts an impressive selection of brands, restaurants and cinemas showing films in English; there is also the Casa de Guia mall located just outside of the town on Estrada do Guincho. In the historic centre of Cascais, the shops are small, privately owned and display beautiful quality and artisan goods. Rua da Raita is a large pedestrianised area which basically will provide you with anything you might want.
TOMAR
For history and architecture buffs, Tomar is a dream destination for a day trip. A former seat for the Order of the Knights Templar, the town has some fascinating sights, such as the Convent of Christ (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the stunning castle. However, if you look beyond the ancient artefacts, Tomar is a bustling spot filled with gorgeous shops, both classical and contemporary. The Rua Serpa Pinto is the main shopping street in the town and leads to the Praça da República which is a chic and stylish spot to enjoy a snack and some people watching to catch your breath. Expect to find a mix of trendy fashion and jewellery boutiques, and stores selling handmade artisan pieces of Portuguese design. Rua dos Moinhos is a popular place to visit as it sells all things knight related, including reproduction helmets, swords and tabards! A great stop if you want a souvenir to take home, as well as a truly unique experience!
BRAGA
Braga sits to the Northeast of Porto, and can be easily reached with a short train journey from the centre of Porto, making it a great option for a day trip. The city has a lively year-round atmosphere thanks to the university students and tourists alike, and has no shortage of shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. Once you have visited the Bom Jesus Sanctuary, the picture perfect stairway which gives you the most aweinspiring views of the city, it is time to explore the streets and what they have to offer. You will see many handmade small guitar type instruments, known as cavaquinhos here, as well as carved mini figures made from wood, called farricoco, which are a staple gift purchased during Holy Week. The Municipal Market can be found at the Praça do Comércio near the city centre and is a wonderful experience. Fresh foods, edible gifts and souvenirs are all available here, but make sure to visit before 15h00 on weekdays. If the smaller boutiques are not what you’re after, then Braga also offers several shopping centres, all providing ample parking, late night opening hours, entertainment options and eateries. Braga Parque is the largest mall, Braga Retail Center offers large department type stores, and the Minho Centre boasts high street brands.
Above right: Braga’s cavaquinhos, little guitars, are handmade and worth displaying. Above: More of Braga’s best, laid back looks from the Portuguese brand, Meam
THE MUSIC MAN
HISTORY, CULTURE AND MUSIC COLLIDE IN A JOYOUS SYMPHONY AT THE CONSERVATÓRIO DE MÚSICA DE LOULÉ – FRANCISCO ROSADO. WE MEET ITS DIRECTOR, S É RGIO LEITE
Words: DEBBIE REYNOLDS
With highly experienced teachers, budding musicians get the opportunity to focus on developing their talents. Right: inside Loulé’s Mother Church where an organ will be built if plans and monies come together
CHILDREN SCURRYING around with various instruments and the sound of a youthful choir greet me as I arrive at the music conservatory in the heart of Loulé’s old town.
Up a flight of marble stairs and we’re in the ‘office’ of its exuberant director, Sérgio Leite. “I didn’t choose this piano rehearsal room for our meeting just because I’m a classical pianist,” he laughs. “But it is unquestionably one of my favourite rooms here.”
Sérgio also has a master’s degree in performance and teaching, a post graduate degree in School Administration and an MBA. But it is his absolute passion for musical education and specifically the Loulé school that is so infectious. He has me totally enthralled with the story of how it all began.
Sérgio moved to the Algarve from Porto with his medical doctor wife and young son in 2015, working at a school in Portimão before being invited to join the installation committee for the proposed Loulé Music Conservatory.
“How could I say no?” he says. “It was something I could never have imagined.”
He explains that the idea to create a public music school in the Algarve was a long time in the making but really hinged around the beautiful old building which is now its home.
The story
The original building located at the top of Rua Sacadura Cabral was believed to have been mostly destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, but was rebuilt as a manor house in the early 1800s belonging to several families over the years. It then became the home of a philharmonic band for around 50 years before being abandoned.
Known as the Solar Música Nova, it was acquired by the Loulé Municipality in 2008 and classified as a Monument of Municipal Interest.
“The municipality then decided it would be the perfect place for a specialised artistic
music school and approached the Portuguese Ministry of Education for its approval,” explains Sérgio.
Meanwhile, the building, which was almost in ruins, was being restored and re-purposed by acclaimed architects Victor Mestre and Sofia Aleixo. Their mission was to retain its cultural identity, but also to make the building practical as a music school, with soundproof practice rooms, a music library, teachers and students rest areas, and an adjacent municipal auditorium. Inaugurated on 12 September 2018 by the then Prime Minister Antonio Costa, the school became the first public school to specialise in artistic music education in the Algarve.
“It was a very fulfilling moment, because until then there had been a tremendous lack of public (free) music education under the Tejo River,” says Sérgio. “Every other music school in the area had been started as a private school, but none had been offered by the government.”
The talents
Today, the school boasts 320 students from the mandatory school age of six through to 18, studying 22 different instruments and singing. As per protocol, they study their music subjects at the school but also attend other schools in the area for the rest of the required subjects.
“Because we are not a city school, we take children from the Algarve and Alentejo, and the entrance requirements are very demanding,” says Sérgio. “We have very limited space, so we can only take the cream of the crop. We explain that it’s like being a sports person training for the Olympics – they have to be committed, focused and work hard.”
The school employs an impressive 47 teachers handling everything from musical theory and composition to instruments and singing. “They all have master’s degrees,” says Sérgio with great pride. A combination of their passionate teaching and the students’ dedication has already reaped results. “Of the 12 students who finished the 12th year, eight are studying at university and two have finished university and are now performing with the Sociedade
Filarmonica Artistas de Minerva in Loulé.”
“Unlike most children who finish school and are not sure about what they want to do, our kids have a very clear focus that music will be their career.
“Our job is to make sure they have all the right tools to get there. It’s tremendously hard and challenging but the results are amazing as we see our students growing up as human being and musicians.”
With such success also come challenges, mostly the limited number of children they can accommodate.
“We would love to have more children, so we are working with the municipality to grow the school – we’re hoping to develop the land in front of the Loulé Creativo into space for another 20 classes.”
Sérgio’s ambition also includes creating more community involvement in the school, pointing out that its doors are always open for anyone who wants to listen to auditions or special performances.
“During school term, we have several auditions and recitals every month, to which the public are most welcome,” he says. “It’s lovely for the children to have an audience when they perform.”
For more information, visit the website conservatoriodeloule.pt and sign up for the monthly newsletter.
WHO WAS FRANCISCO ROSADO?
Francisco Rosado (1951-2015) was born in Faro and studied there until the end of his secondary studies. An opponent of Salazar’s regime, he left for Paris as a political exile. In 1975, a year after the Carnation Revolution, he returned to his homeland to continue his recorder music studies. He achieved great prominence in the Algarve for his teaching, and promotion of early music. He was linked to the programming of the Loulé Early Music meetings and founded the Flute Ensemble of the Loulé Musical Expression Centre, a group which recorded several CDs. As a teacher he mentored and influenced several dozen students before his untimely death in September 2015.
Clave de Sul –Assoçiacão Musical de Loulé
With his passion for music and history, Sérgio is one of the drivers of an ambitiously exciting project to build an organ in Loulé’s Mother Church of São Clemente. He explains: “The Loulé Mother Church was partially destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, but there is strong historical evidence that there was an organ in the church, with the documented presence of organs in Loulé dating back to the mid-16th century.
“On May 1, in front of the people of Loulé, after the procession of Mãe Soberana, we signed the construction contract with organ builder Dinarte. The most important stone at this moment has been laid!”
He said the primary mission was to promote, stimulate and disseminate cultural and artistic activity, especially organ music in its aspects of performance, creation and learning.
To this end, in partnership with the Loulé Music Conservatory, Clave de Sul hopes to be able to offer official study of the organ, which until now, south of Lisbon, is only available in Évora.
“The long-term vision is to also install organs in Almancil and Quarteira to further open the doors to cultural tourism and create career opportunities for the people in the Algarve.
“It’s no good getting one-off funding for a specific project and then it’s gone – we want this to be sustainable, with monthly concerts, masterclasses and artist residency programmes for young organists.”
He is also adamant that this project should encourage social inclusion, specifically designed to break down socioeconomic barriers to accessing musical education. The advisory board, for instance, is composed of distinguished individuals from the region and country, including musicians, writers, former members of Parliament, university rectors and state councillors. They are positive that by 2027 their dream of having an organ in Loulé will be a reality, but they want as many people as possible to be part of the journey.
“The first organ will cost €650,000, and we have already paid a deposit of 10%, but we obviously need a lot more and we are looking not only for government funding, but donations from anyone who is interested,” said Sérgio. “We want the public to be part of this, so whether it’s €10, or a thousand or a million, every sponsor will be playing their part.”
The total budget is estimated at €1,015,000 over three years, with the first phase being the organ construction, then educational programmes and finally the concert series. “This project represents not just a revival of historical tradition, but a forward-looking initiative that promotes inclusion, education and cultural development for the region. It is extremely important to us that society participates in and feels part of this initiative.”
GETTING INSPIRED
WHEN IT COMES TO GARDENS, IDEAS BLOSSOM WHEN YOU SEE WHAT OTHERS HAVE DONE SUCCESSFULLY THAT YOU CAN LEARN FROM. VISITING OUTDOOR SPACES CAN IMPRESS AND ENCHANT, ESPECIALLY LATE WINTER AND SPRING GARDENS THAT ARE THERE TO BE ENJOYED YEAR ROUND
Words: BURFORD HURRY
IT STARTED in February when the OGten Net Loulé garden pod was invited to visit Tamsin’s garden outside Silves. The day did not begin auspiciously for a visit. Rain threatened and even when we left Loulé there were clouds. But as we approached Silves, there was a patch of blue and then the sky lightened and we had sunshine as we swung through the gate and parked. We walked towards the garden past an impressive wall of cuttings and plants in pots and then stepped out into the garden. It was a picture. But this was not the conventional garden with lawns and tidy flower beds; this was something quite different and very Mediterranean. It looked as if it belonged.
Man-designed, man-made
Having said that, I began to think of some of the famous gardens of the world and their complete indifference to belonging. In France, the Palace of Versailles, with its formal parterres, statuary and magnificent fountains made a point of looking different: soil was imported; canals for water for the splendid fountains, were constructed; shrubs were trimmed into shape and planted in patterns; mature trees in local forests were dug up and replanted in the palace gardens. Every part of the garden shows the hand of man, and every day they are kept looking that way.
In private gardens like Great Dixter in England the planting and the cultivation is also thoughtfully controlled and planted. Likewise, Gertrude Jekyll’s gardens were carefully designed and plants selected for colour and texture. All these garden speak of wealth , power and industry. They definitely didn’t just happen or volunteer. They were engineered, planted and cultivated.
Opposite page, main picture and bottom left: Edward’s massive 3,000m² wild garden. This page, three beautifully flowered spaces photographed by Jan Chapman in her garden outside Moncarapacho
Perfectly fitting
It is only in a personal space like Derek Jarman’s garden, planted in windswept shingle facing the nuclear power station in Dungeness, Kent, that we find a difference. Jarman was a passionate gardener from childhood, and combined his artistic eye, his horticultural expertise and his ecological convictions to embrace the challenge of the soil and the bleak situation and transform it with the area’s indigenous flowers and shrubs. He created sculptures made from stones, old rusted tools and found objects, decorated it with driftwood and wooden beams. Not only is the garden attractive, it is also part of its surroundings, even softening the appearance of the distant looming nuclear power station so that it seems less threatening.
There were features in Tamsin’s garden which made me think of Jarman’s garden. She showed she had in mind where we garden and selected the right plants. Of course, unlike Jarman, Tamsin started with an advantage as she has barrocal soil not just shingle. She also has a much larger palette of plants to choose from, primarily with some of Mediterranean origin, but also from other warm regions with a dry climate.
With all this in mind she has chosen clusters and banks of plants in different shades and textures of silver and green. Soft grey smoky leafed plants like artemisias growing against stronger architectural Honey bush (Melianthus major) trimmed by pinking shears, pink jade plants (Crassula ovata), tall shrubby, greenleafed pink flowering Raisin bush (Grewia occidentalis). Grey leafed agaves (Agave attenuata) and different Mangaves provided plump contasts with their leafy counterparts.
There were flowers, too. African Daisy bushes (Osteospermum fruticosum), Mother-of-thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), a bush of blue teucrium and tall orange or red flower spikes of aloes.
This is barrocal so Tamsin has taken advantage of its natural stony assets, placing fragments of small rocks together and combining those with streams of beige and brown pebbles to form wide paths swirling through the garden and taking your eye with them. The paths also provide easy access to the centre of it. There were other features in the garden such as five smooth weathered raw wooden planks of different
All three gardens are all on our ‘lousy’ barrocal soil and, like the mato that surrounds them, they all look good year round and absolutely wonderful in the late winter/early spring.
heights, several coloured splashes of delicately blown translucent glass on tall fragile stems and pieces of sculptured metal. With the plants they draw you into the garden.
Another view
Jan’s garden outside Moncarapacho is also a very lovely Algarvian garden. She has a large garden and she has encouraged the wilder parts of it to become integrated in it. The garden and its paths flow through both. Like Tamsin, her choice of plants reflects her acknowledgment of our hot summers and wet winters. In addition, as well as a being a passionate gardener, Jan also has some of her own pieces in it to enhance her planting.
In February when I saw it, everything was flourishing and magical. The shrubs and trees framing the edges of her garden have become more mature, and have more depth. As a result, the grey leaves of lavenders and flowers of African daisy bushes seemed to glow in the fringes. A large Coral tree (Erythrina caffra) towered above a nearby smaller Cock spur coral tree (Erythrina crista-galli), which was still big enough to cast shade and have a bench under it.
Not only is Jan’s garden firmly barrocal, it also has large old limestone rocks covered with grey green and orange lichens and whose size is celebrated rather than buried or removed. This entire space is also a habitat for lizards, snakes and birds. A red-rumped swallow’s nest in the house is treasured.
Jan has also begun doing some experimental dense planting of shrubs, fruit trees and plants using a minimum of water. Although some exotics have been planted here even this area looks reassuringly familiar as all the plants come from climates that are hot and dry. As a result, their foliage
Tamsin’s garden brings plantings together with special features that attract the eye, such as wood, pebbles, and metal sculptures
and their way of growth both look natural and can cope and take advantage of our hot summers and wet winters.
Learning more
The third visit this year was to Edward and Janet’s very large garden space. Although I know it well, having been there several times over the years, this year’s visit was the same but different. Earlier Edward had rung me and asked if I would like to see the latest addition to his garden – a 3,000m² wild area. The group began the visit there.
To gain easy entry to the wild garden, Edward had the area cleared of most of the thorny gorse (Ulex europaeus) by hand rather than bringing in the diggers and the heavy machinery. He felt that, although gorse was one of the treasures of the Gulbenkian gardens in Lisbon, where it could be enjoyed from the safety of a wide path, in this patch it would not be the case – its thorns would prick and scratch the legs of visitors.
The other plant to be removed to the relief of visitors but to the disappointment of local animals and birds was the thorny and rambling Mediterranean Smilax (Smilax aspera). Very little else had been done apart from a wide strimmed swathe through the bush which enabled us to explore the garden. The view into the mato and over the tops of the trees and shrubs to the rolling hills behind was stunning. The whole area was bursting with life. The holm oaks were covered in silvery shoots, the pistacias with translucent orange ones. Wild pink orchids (Orchis italica) were everywhere – there was a very large pool of them. Every part of the garden was growing with grasses or flowers or shrubs with a glowing yellow Coronilla glauca lighting up one corner. We found a blackbird’s nest with three blue eggs in it, low enough for us to look into it.
The rest of the garden was more developed but even that was in keeping with the seasons. Small attractive flower beds nearer the house and the huge sweeping green mown ‘lawn’ down to the lily pond was thick with wild grass and clovers, and would only be green while the rains lasted. Around the swimming pool more wild orchids of all descriptions, and below it the occasional wild tulip. It was a garden to be enjoyed and relax in.
Think about this
All three gardens have several features in common. They have been created over many years by inspired gardeners – although Edward would declare he was not a gardener. They are all on our ‘lousy’ barrocal soil and, like the mato that surrounds them, they all look good all year round and absolutely wonderful in the late winter/early spring.
So, take a leaf from their books and grow gorgeous gardens for late winter /early spring. Forget our simmering summers of discontent and relax, sip a cold wine in the cool shade of your trees in summer or take a plunge in the ocean knowing your garden is taking its well-earned summer break.
summer II Sounds of
WE PROMISED MORE, AND WE ’ RE DELIVERING MORE OF THOSE RESTAURANTS AND BARS THAT SET THE SCENE, SERVE UP THE BEST FOOD AND DRINKS AND LAY ON THE LIVE MUSIC. JUST BEAR IN MIND THAT THE HEAT IS UP, THE VIBES AMAZING, AND THAT BOOKINGS ARE ESSENTIAL IF YOU WANT YOUR PLACE IN THE SUN
Words:
LUCY MAYER
BAMBOO RESTAURANT AND BAR
Estr. da Quinta do Lago, Almancil 289 394 521 team@bambooalgarve.com
This Asian Fusion restaurant is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year. The überpopular spot is famous for its exquisite sushi and music with a live DJ every night, and a band on Monday and Tuesday evenings. Situated on the main route between Vale do Lobo and Quinta do Lago, the restaurant is hidden behind an oasis of tropical plants and, of course, bamboo. DJ Rhythm is one of the resident DJs
here and is definitely a pro at setting the scene – especially if you’d like that scene to be a Full Moon Party at the water’s edge on a white sandy beach in Thailand.
Then there’s something a bit different and very special. Enter Sócrates Bôrras who, alongside his trusty saxophone, is a great accompaniment to any DJ or live band or simply just as himself with his trusty sax. He has a vast and versatile repertoire that ranges from classic jazz to the latest pop hits. And there’s Bamboo party regulars, The Daddy Jack band who are one of the most in-demand bands of the moment. Their original takes on classic artists like Luther Vandross and
Bill Withers to modern superstars like Justin Timberlake and Drake have become their hallmark.
Live music schedules may vary depending on season, check @bamboo_ algarve on Instagram for up-to-date information.
JULIA’S
Julia’s Beach
Av. Oceano, Praia Do Garrão 289 396 512 julias-algarve.com
Recognised as the original beach restaurant in Vale do Lobo (we remember when it was
one table in the sand and a post to tie up your horse), Julia’s has transformed itself over the past few decades, and today, live music is one of the treats of dining there.
Julia’s is open 364 days a year and boasts live music sessions on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings and on Sunday lunchtimes. Artists like April Lee Fields is a regular here on a Thursday night. April is a ‘spoken word artist’ who, in 2019, composed a spoken word album entitled WanderLust. Comprising both poetry and literature, the album is an eclectic mix of varied musical projects that April has embarked upon over the years. Her soulful voice is the perfect
soundtrack for an intimate dinner overlooking the sea at sunset.
Landro Russo, known as The Piano Man, takes charge on a Tuesday evening. Think cover from bands like Coldplay to Natasha Bedingfield, but with a piano taking centre stage.
For those who want a boogie on the beach, Julia’s does a roaring session with live bands on a Sunday afternoon performing all the classics from Proud Mary to Don’t Look Back in Anger.
Live music schedules may vary depending on season, check @juliasalgarve on Instagram for more up-to-date information.
WILD&CO SHOW BAR
Edf. Wild&Co, Piso 0, Av. Sá Carneiro, 8200-340 Albufeira 911 700 999 / 289 590 280 wildcobar.com
It’s not called a show bar for nothing. When you enter Wild & Co in Albufeira, you really do need to be prepared for a wild night out. Show Bar was founded as a unique disco-bar concept in 2003 where entertainment plays the main role.
And there’s plenty of entertainment to keep you happy – from 'flair' bartending (a form of bartending that focuses on entertaining patrons by performing tricks and manoeuvres with bar tools and bottles while making drinks), a host of live music bands, themed parties, dancers and DJs and an American bar.
There’s live music every night from 20h00, and the focus is most definitely rock. You’ve got the Wildcats Rock Cover Band, Nasty Kids, Duarte & Folks and TVN with their diverse setlist spanning pop, rock, funk, and contemporary charttoppers. Wild&Co claims to be the only bar in Albufeira that has a VIP area completely reserved for the most special guests.
Live music schedules may vary depending on season, check @WildCo. Bar on Instagram for up-to-date information.
THAI BEACH CLUB
Av. Rocha Baixinha, Quarteira 289 322 471 prenotasyst.com
“Today is the right day!” is the mantra that the team at Thai Beach club live by. Famous for its parties on the beach and its ‘Freaky Fridays’, the atmosphere here is soulful melodies, upbeat tunes and relaxing vibes with a stunning sea view.
With the magnificent Falésia Beach as a backdrop, the team says its mission was always to create a club restaurant with delicious Thai food and lots of Champagne at the centre.
As well as Friday party nights, Sundays are perfect for live music, too. One of the Club’s most popular bands is The Munchies. From The Beatles to Dua Lipa,
Elvis to Tina Turner, Queen to Bruno Mars, The Munchies have the members to cater for a whole repertoire of songs from the 50s; rock ‘n’ roll, pop, funk, classic rock to the greatest hits of the moment.
Take band member Filipa. She started playing the guitar when she was 17 years old and gained real experience playing across Europe and America. Then there’s Nuno, who is a self-taught guitar player, producer, mixer and audio technician at Pigeons Nest Recordings studio. Next is João, who started studying music at the age of five under the influence of his father, before being a part of countless bands with varied different styles. Their energy is second to none and they’ll have you dancing all the way along the boardwalk to the beach.
Live music schedules may vary depending on season, check @thaibeachclubalgarve on Instagram for up-to-date information.
The Cheeky Pup is a well-established Irish gastropub which is instantly recognisable by its Irish Bulldog logo which adorns
everything from the menu to the coasters. It’s hidden in a quiet corner of Quinta do Lago’s Quinta Shopping (it’s not so quiet however, once that famous Irish Craic gets underway).
Whether you’re in the main restaurant or on the beautiful lantern-lit terrace, there’s something for everyone. The big TVs over the bar area are always tuned in to your favourite sport (usually golf in this part of the Algarve), but it’s the live music which really brings the place to life after dark.
Regulars at The Cheeky Pup are bands including Six Irish Men, The Keys, Twin Fin and The Washingtons. They’re usually playing every Friday and Saturday night after 22h30 during peak season, with the schedule varying at other times of the year.
The bands each have their own unique way of getting the party started, but regulars in Irish bars across the Algarve, Six Irish Men are known for bringing the Irish charm with their upbeat Celtic sound achieved with the use of a multitude of instruments from the fiddle to the mandolin.
If you are expecting a good old knees up, you won’t be disappointed.
Live music schedules may vary depending on season, check @thecheekypup on Instagram for up-to-date information.
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YES to f itness NO to fuss M
STARTING A NEW EXERCISE ROUTINE CAN FEEL OVERWHELMING AT THE BEST OF TIMES. BETWEEN COMPLICATED MOVES, FANCY GEAR, FINDING A SPARE HOUR TO WORK OUT, IT’S EASY TO THINK, “WHERE DO I BEGIN?”, OR WORSE, “SHOULD I EVEN BEGIN?”. WELL YOU’RE IN LUCK, MICRO WORKOUTS AND EXERCISE SNACKS ARE TRENDING FOR 2025
Words: SALLY DIXON
ICRO WORKOUTS (think short, simple, and beginner-friendly) are the perfect way to ease into fitness, build confidence, and actually enjoy the process, without eating into your day or your budget. As the proud owner of a shiny new Oura ring, I’m now obsessed with micro workouts as a way to bump up the scores on my daily ‘activity goal’ achievements. Squats while brushing my teeth? Absolutely. I’ve got an electric toothbrush so that’s a full two minutes of non-stop arduous squats, twice a day. It’s called ‘habit stacking’– look it up.
What is a micro workout?
Micro workouts focus on the basics. No machines, no confusing choreography, just straightforward movements that use your own body weight or simple, cost-effective exercise tools like a resistance band. They’re short bursts of activity lasting up to ten minutes, so they’re easy to fit into a chaotic day (even if you’re squeezing in exercise between laundry loads or during a workfrom-home lunch break). You can even break it down further into short bursts of one-to-two-minute ‘exercise snacks’ (and I’m not talking about protein bars) spread throughout the day. Could it get any easier than that?
The main problem with starting a new fitness regime is that people think they need to go all-in right away, but small steps
really do lead to big changes. Short workouts don’t just suit busy schedules, they support consistency, one of the biggest predictors of long-term fitness. Short sessions are easier to stick with, and they add up fast. You might not have 45 minutes to spend in a gym every day, but ten minutes between meetings or school pick-ups is totally do-able. Micro workouts also align with (also currently on trend) menstrualcycle based training, postpartum recovery, and perimenopausal energy fluctuations. Apps like 7 Minute Workout and WithU offer tailored short workouts for when you’re pushed for time or low on energy.
Just move
Turns out intensity matters more than duration, especially when you’re short on time. A growing body of research supports the idea that short, structured workouts can deliver major benefits. A landmark McMaster University study showed that a ten-minute workout with one minute of hard effort (3 x 20-second all out cycle sprints) produced similar benefits to 45 minutes of steady continuous cycling when done consistently (three times a week) over 12 weeks.
Micro workouts are all about removing the pressure. You can work out at your own pace, in your own space – no gym crowds or judgment. Even powering up and down the stairs for five minutes on your lunch break (yes, you may get some funny looks) can be classed as a micro workout and a time-efficient strategy to improve cardiorespiratory fitness. Progress is power – just aim to move more than you did yesterday. And the best part? Ten minutes really can be enough. Enough to shift your mood. Enough to get the circulation going. Enough to get you feeling stronger, more mobile, and more energised.
No, it won’t replace a long run or a full body gym session every time, but it’s a powerful tool for encouraging regular movement. So, next time you’re tempted to skip your workout remember, doing a little is better than doing nothing at all.
BEGINNER’S SEVEN-MINUTE MICRO WORKOUT
Try this gentle, full-body workout to get you started. No gear required! Aim for three to four times a week to build a solid habit. Once you feel stronger, you can add more time or try more challenging versions of each move.
Do each move for 30 seconds. Take it slow and focus on good form. Rest for 30 seconds between each one.
March in Place – Swing your arms to get the blood flowing.
Chair Squats – Stand in front of a chair and sit down, then stand back up. Option to do squats with the chair.
Wall Push-Ups – Stand a few feet from a wall and press in and out as you would in a normal push-up.
Standing Knee Raises – Lift one knee at a time, like you’re slowly marching.
Arm Circles – Hold your arms out and make small forward/backward circles.
Side Steps – Step side-to-side, adding a light arm swing. Add a hop in between steps if you feel like upping the cardio.
7 Seated Forward Fold – Sit and gently reach for your toes to stretch out.
Micro workouts that pack a punch
If you’re already a fitness fanatic, mix up your routine with these feisty little micro workouts. Here are four worth trying:
1
High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) Blasts (8–10 minutes):
Alternate 30 seconds of work with 15-30 seconds of rest. Think squats, lunges, burpees, and mountain climbers. Perfect for fat burning and cardiovascular fitness.
2
Strength Minis (10 minutes): Two rounds of bodyweight or dumbbell circuits. Try: push-ups, bent-over rows, goblet squats, and planks.
3 Mobility Flows (5–10 minutes): Loosen up with dynamic stretches, deep lunges, and spinal twists. Ideal post-sleep or for a quick break from your desk.
4 Core Finishers (5 minutes):
Fire up abs and obliques with planks, dead bugs, V-sits, side planks, and Russian twists.
As always, consult with a fitness professional before starting any new exercise programme, especially if you have any underlying health conditions. It’s important to listen to your body and gradually increase the intensity and duration of your workouts over time to avoid overtraining and reduce the risk of injury. Listen to your body and ensure you’re performing the exercises with proper form to prevent injury.
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Conquest and chaos
PORTUGAL WAS ONE OF THE LARGEST AND LONGEST LIVED COLONIAL EMPIRES IN HISTORY. EVEN AFTER THE SEC0ND WORLD WAR, WHEN IN MOST OF EUROPE THERE WAS A TREND TOWARDS DECOLONIZATION, PORTUGAL’S DICTATOR SALAZAR REFUSED TO RELINQUISH THE REMAINING PARTS OF THE COUNTRY’S EMPIRE
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
AT A TIME WHEN Portugal’s empire consisted of Angola, Mozambique and Guinea Bissau, plus several islands in the Atlantic and a few remaining territories in Asia. Salazar’s views were explicit, and despite the enormous expense, he persisted in maintaining the wars that raged on in all three African countries.
From the 1960s onwards they resulted in huge losses on both sides with thousands of Portuguese soldiers returning home in body bags. The lack of support at home caused continuous unrest, and even after Salazar’s demise when Caetano took over as Prime Minister, the wars continued, only ending on 25 April 1974 when military officers, sympathetic to the causes of the African freedom fighters, carried out a near bloodless coup. This was the so-called Carnation Revolution that took place in Lisbon, giving the colonial territories their path to independence.
The making of an empire
In 1419, exactly 555 years before the Carnation Revolution, a group of intrepid mariners set off into the great unknown. Travelling south into the Atlantic, their courageous journey was funded by the Portuguese Crown. They came across an archipelago of uninhabited islands with fertile soil, ample water and a perfect climate. The largest island was covered with a dense forest and was later named Madeira, meaning wood. This was to become Portugal’s first permanent colony and the method used for attracting settlers was a blue print for more colonies to come.
Divided up by the Crown into ‘captaincies’, the land was shared among wealthy Portuguese nobles who were encouraged to explore the interior and wherever possible develop agriculture. Attracting followers by providing them with small holdings free of charge, it was not difficult to find poor peasants living in harsh conditions who were willing to leave mainland Portugal for the promised land. The Crown retained ownership, the nobles were recompensed for their investments and the settlers were well rewarded for their efforts. Cultivating land in such ideal surroundings gave them the better lives they had yearned to find.
Tomé and Principe. Administered using the same captaincy system, these previously uninhabited hot and humid islands became the gruesome centres for the distribution of slaves, supplying them as workers for the sugar plantations in Madeira and the Azores. Later on, as more Portuguese colonies came into existence, so the trade in slaves increased.
More trading stations and fortified ports were set up along the coast. Luanda, in modern day Angola, was particularly well organised. Commodities such as ivory, beeswax, dyes and pepper were brought by river from the African interior and then transferred to ships bound for Portugal to be sold in the rest of Europe.
In 1498, the explorer Vasco da Gama navigated his way around the Cape of Good Hope and a new world of trading opportunities along Africa’s east coast seemed to open up for the Portuguese. A trading station was set up in Sofala in Mozambique, but when travelling north from there the situation was more challenging. Despite building fortifications in Mombasa, Malindi and Hormuz because Arab and Indian traders were already well established, the Portuguese effort to find trading partners was difficult. By now the explorers’ eyes were on the more lucrative prize of trading with the Spice Islands. Using their superior ships and cannons they took over the trade routes in the Indian Ocean, setting up Goa as the administrative capital where the Viceroy of Portuguese India resided. Ships from other countries could not travel freely, being obliged to buy licenses and passports issued by the Portuguese and paying them custom duties. Exerting further control and hoping to monopolize the trade in spices, a fleet of ships conquered Malacca in Indonesia in 1511 and Timor the following year.
By the end of the 16th century Portugal’s wealth and status was the envy of Europe.
To gain access to Chinese goods, a permanent settlement was located in Macau on the Pearl River, and the most eastern colony was a trading centre named Portuguese Nagasaki. This artificial island set up in the harbour operated successfully for almost 70 years until the Japanese government expelled all foreigners.
It was a win-win situation that was replicated when the nine islands of the Azores were discovered 20 years later. Many of the new arrivals came from the Algarve and Alentejo, and some as far away as France and Flanders. Exploring further south, beyond the Gulf of Guinea, the Portuguese built the impressive Castle of São Jorge de Mina. Due west, new settlements were founded on the Cape Verde group of islands. The captaincy scheme welcomed African settlers who joined the European arrivals creating a unique mixed-race community that embraced both cultures.
By now the Portuguese were trading with West African chiefs, exchanging trinkets such as glass beads and mirrors for gold, ivory and people. Slaves were processed on the newly discovered islands of São
Once Brazil was discovered, the first captaincies were handed out in 1532. There was no shortage of takers, with natural resources such as diamonds and gold available. The colonial plantation model already in use in Madeira and the Azores was expanded with hundreds of thousands of African slaves taken across the Atlantic to work on Brazil’s sugar and tobacco plantations.
By the end of the 16th century, Portugal’s wealth and status was the envy of Europe, but being a small nation with a huge empire, it is hardly surprising that over the centuries there were many challenges, notably by the Dutch, Spanish and the British. Some colonies were lost, and significantly in Brazil – due to internal politics and the people’s desire to be autonomous – independence was achieved in 1822. Although the Carnation Revolution brought about independence for many other colonies, the results were far from smooth. The chaos referred to in the title of this article is expanded in next month’s issue.
understanding ROSACEA
ROSACEA IS ONE OF THE MOST COMMON – AND MOST MISUNDERSTOOD – SKIN CONDITIONS I SEE IN MY SALON. IT OFTEN GETS CONFUSED WITH COUPEROSE,
AND WHILE BOTH AFFECT THE SKIN’S APPEARANCE, THEY ARE NOT THE SAME. FINDING THE RIGHT TREATMENT STRATEGY FOR EACH IS CRUCIAL AND – EVEN MORE IMPORTANTLY – AVOIDING WHAT CAN MAKE THEM WORSE
Words: MANUELA DE OLIVEIRA
ROSACEA is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that typically affects the centre of the face – especially the cheeks, nose, forehead, and chin. It often begins with episodes of flushing, and over time, the redness can become more permanent. In more advanced stages, small pustules and visible blood vessels (telangiectasia) can appear, and in some cases, the skin may thicken, especially around the nose.
Rosacea is more than just a cosmetic concern. It can feel hot, itchy, and uncomfortable. Triggers vary, but they often include sun exposure, alcohol, spicy foods, extreme temperatures, and stress. It’s also more common in fair-skinned individuals over 30 and has a strong genetic component.
Couperose, on the other hand, is a condition where the small blood vessels near the skin surface become permanently dilated, creating a network of fine red lines, often seen on the cheeks and around the nose. Unlike rosacea, couperose is not inflammatory and doesn’t come with pustules, burning, or thickening of the skin. It’s more of a circulatory issue – a loss of
elasticity in the capillaries –than a systemic condition. While couperose can be a symptom or early stage of rosacea, many people experience couperose on its own due to genetics, ageing, sun damage, or harsh environmental conditions.
HOW TO GET ROSACEA UNDER CONTROL
The good news: with the right care, rosacea can be brought into remission – and kept there. Here’s what I recommend, both inclinic and at home:
1 A calm and consistent skincare routine: Your daily routine should focus on reducing inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and protecting the skin from external triggers. Gentle, non-foaming cleansers, anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide or azelaic acid, and barrier-repairing moisturizers are a must. I often recommend the Sensibio AR+ Cream for daily use, and for those who tolerate it, La Roche-Posay’s Niacinamide 10% serum can reduce redness over time.
2 Sun protection, every single day: UV rays are one of the top triggers for rosacea flares. Choose a high-quality, broad-spectrum
Rosacea can affect both men and women. But follow the right advice and you can control the condition
SPF 50 that’s specifically formulated for sensitive skin. At my salon, I recommend the Casmara Urban Protect SPF 50, which is lightweight, effective, and calming.
3 Professional treatments: Certain treatments can offer long-term improvement when performed regularly. These include gentle anti-inflammatory facials, oxygenating therapies, LED light therapy, and in some cases, vascular laser treatments. However, it’s important to choose treatments that are rosacea-safe – no aggressive peels, hot steam, or harsh exfoliants!
4 Watch your triggers: Everyone’s skin is different, but common flare-up factors include:
Hot drinks and spicy food
Alcohol (especially red wine)
Extreme cold or heat
Stress
Overuse of active ingredients like retinol or acids
Keep a diary of flare-ups to understand your triggers.
WHAT TO AVOID
If you’re prone to rosacea or couperose, avoid:
Mechanical exfoliants (scrubs with grains)
Strong AHA or BHA acids
Essential oils (especially peppermint, eucalyptus, and citrus oils)
Products with alcohol or fragrance
Saunas, hot baths, and hot yoga
Even certain treatments marketed as ‘deep cleansing’ can do more harm than good when your skin is inflamed.
FINAL THOUGHTS
As a skin therapist with over 30 years of experience, I’ve seen how rosacea can affect not just the skin, but also confidence and quality of life. But there is hope – with a thoughtful, gentle, and targeted approach, flare-ups can become rare, and your skin can regain its healthy glow.
If you’re unsure whether you’re dealing with couperose or rosacea – or both – I always recommend a professional consultation. With the right diagnosis and care plan, your skin can be calm, strong, and beautifully radiant again.
MH: “Excellent use of angles and textures. Good point of view using foreground shapes to offset window shapes on the building. The human element gives it good scale. Well done.” 1st place
Maurice Hirsch of Chesterfield, MO, USA volunteered once again to be the guest judge in the monthly Algarve Photographers Group challenge. His main interests as a photographer are details, street photography, hands/heads/feet, and patterns like columns, windows, and balconies. More information about Maurice, his work and his poetry can be found at hirschwrites.com
JAN CHAPMAN
HOTEL EVA
Faro, March 2025
Camera: Nikon 55200mm
MH: “A close second. Love the pattern and angles throughout. Well-cropped and executed.” 2nd place
INA TANZER
WINDOWS WITH SHADOWS
Lagos, April 2025
Camera: Sony RX100 (f/9, 1/800s, ISO250)
MH: “Simple and well done. Angles on the building and the shadow create a nice offset to the rectangular windows. Great use of space, allowing the main subject at the top and giving it air at the bottom.”
3rd place
NIGEL MOORE
OPENING TIME
Loulé, July 2020
Camera: Fujifilm XT3 + 18-55mm lens
MH: “Nice use of depth letting the viewer see inside as well as the reflection at the top, allowing context as to where this window is.”
4th place
FRED BOS
WINDOWS CORNER
Soalheira, April 2020
Camera: Nikon D80
MH: “Good use of space, angles, and reflection. Nicely composed and cropped.”
5th place
Manuela, a German beautician with 30-years experience, offers the latest technologies at her Almancil salon, including:
HEALTH MONITORS
WRISTWATCHES USED TO BE ABOUT TELLING THE TIME AND, IF YOU WERE REALLY FANCY, THE DATE, TOO. BUT TODAY’S SMARTWATCHES CAN TELL YOU SO MUCH MORE: YOUR HEART RATE, SLEEP PATTERNS, BLOOD OXYGEN LEVELS, STRESS, AND EVEN DETECT SIGNS OF ARRHYTHMIA OR SLEEP APNEA. BUT HOW ACCURATE ARE THESE HEALTH MONITORING SYSTEMS REALLY?
Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE
CAN THIS NEW breed of medical advisors actually make life more stressful for the worried well? The main health monitoring sensors in smartphones from brands such as Apple, Samsung, Fitbit and Garmin include heart rate monitors, sleep monitors and even electrocardiograms and blood sugar monitors.
Most smartwatches use photoplethysmography (PPG) to measure heart rate. This involves shining light into the skin and measuring how it is reflected by blood flow. For resting heart rate, these sensors are generally accurate within a few beats per minute of medical-grade equipment. Multiple studies have confirmed that for steadystate conditions – such as sitting or walking – the results are reasonably reliable.
However, accuracy can decline during intense physical activity. Rapid arm movement, sweat, skin tone, body hair, and the tightness of the watch band can all affect the readings. Athletes who need highly
accurate data often prefer chest strap monitors, which use electrocardiography (ECG) and provide better precision during exercise.
By the way, hands up if you can say photoplethysmography without at least ten minutes practice.
Some high-end smartwatches, like the Apple Watch Series 4 and later, Samsung Galaxy Watch, and Withings ScanWatch, include ECG capabilities. These allow users to take single-lead ECG recordings to detect irregular heart rhythms, particularly atrial fibrillation (AFib).
Clinical trials and FDA clearances suggest these features are accurate enough to be used as a screening tool. However, it’s crucial to understand the limitations. A smartwatch ECG is not the same as a 12-lead ECG conducted in a clinical setting. It can miss other arrhythmias and may give false positives, especially in people without symptoms.
Withings ScanWatch
The watches can be helpful for people with known cardiac issues or those at risk, but they’re not a substitute for professional diagnostics.
Blood Oxygen (SpO2) sensors have become more common in newer smartwatches, such as those by Fitbit, Apple, and Garmin. These use light sensors similar to heart rate monitors to estimate blood oxygen saturation. In healthy individuals at sea level, readings typically fall within the 95–100% range, and smartwatches are reasonably good at detecting drops below this threshold.
However, the accuracy is generally not on par with medical-grade pulse oximeters. Conditions like poor peripheral circulation, cold temperatures, or darker skin tones can introduce inaccuracies. While useful for trend tracking – like spotting nighttime dips in oxygen that might hint at sleep apnea – the data shouldn’t be relied upon for serious medical decisions.
Sleep tracking is another widely marketed feature. Most smartwatches track sleep based on movement, heart rate, and sometimes blood oxygen. They can estimate how long you’ve slept, the time spent in various sleep stages (light, deep, REM), and periods of wakefulness.
The accuracy of sleep stage detection is questionable when compared to polysomnography, the gold standard for sleep studies. Some studies suggest they are around 80–90% accurate at detecting when someone is asleep or awake, but much less accurate at identifying sleep stages.
Stress tracking usually involves heart rate variability (HRV), skin temperature, and sometimes galvanic skin response (sweat-based electrical changes). HRV is a well-known indicator of physiological stress, and watches like those from Garmin, Fitbit, and WHOOP use it to offer insights into stress levels and recovery.
The wrong influences
The challenge lies in interpretation. While HRV is a meaningful measure, it is influenced by many factors including hydration, alcohol, illness, and even posture. Smartwatches can suggest trends but don’t provide context. A low HRV reading might signal stress or simply be a result of poor sleep the night before. Some watches now include temperature sensors and
respiratory tracking. These are emerging features and are less well validated. Temperature readings may not match core body temperature and are better used to track deviations over time rather than absolute numbers. Respiratory rate is also estimated from heart rate and motion data, and while potentially useful for spotting trends during illness, it is not currently considered highly reliable.
It’s also important to note that the accuracy of any smartwatch health data depends heavily on proper use. Watches must be worn snugly and consistently. Users must calibrate the watch with their personal data – height, weight, age, etc. – to get better results. Even with the best devices, inconsistent wear or incorrect positioning on the wrist can skew the data.
Another limitation is that most health data from smartwatches is interpreted by algorithms, not clinicians. These algorithms are often ‘black boxes’ –proprietary and not fully transparent about how they reach conclusions.
Researchers have coined the term ‘orthosomnia’ to describe the obsessive pursuit of optimal sleep metrics based on fitness tracker or mobile phone app data.
Worryingly, recent research shows that smartphones may be making things worse for that group of people known to doctors as the ‘worried well’.
A recent report by market research group Mintel found that nearly half of consumers say monitoring health metrics makes you more stressed about your health, rising to nearly two thirds of people who own smartwatches. “Over-monitoring could create the adverse effect of leaving consumers overwhelmed and overloaded with information that could increase health anxiety,” the report concludes.
Creating problems
The sleep monitoring systems are a particular source of concern. A group of Saudi sleep scientists recently reported that smartphone’s vaunted sleep analysis capabilities may actually cause insomnia.
The researchers have coined the term ‘orthosomnia’ to describe the obsessive pursuit of optimal sleep metrics based on fitness tracker or mobile phone app data.
“Several behaviours are typically associated with orthosomnia, including preoccupation with sleep tracker data, frequently checking the sleep tracker, and anxiety about disassociation from the technology. In short, orthosomnia can be viewed as the obsessive pursuit of ideal sleep, free from disturbances, with regular sleep cycles and a focus on the body’s healing process,” the researchers write. “Individuals suffering from it often incorrectly assume that their sleep trackers are perfect, so they spend an unusual amount of time in bed striving to enhance that data.” In short, people are losing sleep over their obsessive need to check the quality of their sleep.
For people with specific health concerns or those requiring clinical accuracy, smartwatch data can be a helpful supplement, but not a replacement, for professional care. Used wisely, however, they can encourage healthier habits, increase awareness of bodily rhythms, and even help detect conditions earlier than might otherwise be possible.
Left: Apple Watch Series 4; right: Samsung Galaxy Watch Ultra
CHER
Singer, actress and TV personality Cher first found fame in the mid-60s as half of the hippie duo Sonny and Cher, with their mega-hit I Got You Babe. Coming from a disadvantaged background – her parents divorced before she was a year old and she spent some time in an orphanage – she says her goal was always to be famous. Her mother remarried several times and Cher remembers financial struggles during her childhood. She took part in school plays and took acting classes while she waited to be ‘discovered’.
She met Sonny Bono in 1962 and they began performing together because she suffered from severe stage fright! They became overnight stars in the UK because, Cher says: “The US just didn’t get us!” Fashion icons as well as performers, they broke up in the early ‘70s, with Cher continuing to have solo hits like Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves and If I could Turn Back Time.
She was married to musician Gregg Allman between 1975 and 1979. Success as an actress followed with, among many others, Silkwood (1983), The Witches of Eastwick (1987), Moonstruck (1988), Mermaids (1990), Tea with Mussolini (1999), and Burlesque (2010).
Sonny died in a skiing accident in 1998. In her tribute at his funeral Cher said he was “the most unforgettable character I ever met!”
Cher is well known for her support for progressive causes such as gay and trans rights and has founded the Cher Charitable Foundation which helps marginalised communities, older folk, children and animals. She lives in Malibu and the first volume of her autobiography is due to be published later this year.
Where are they now?
FROM POLITICIANS LAST MONTH, TO POP STARS FOR THIS JULY, THE CHANGES IN LIFESTYLE OF SOME OF THE BIGGEST NAMES NEVER FAIL TO AMAZE EVEN THE MOST FAITHFUL OF FOLLOWERS. ANYONE YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT? DROP US AN EMAIL
Words: JILL ECKERSLEY
NEIL DIAMOND
When New Yorker Neil Diamond was given a guitar for his 16th birthday, he could never have imagined that his song Sweet Caroline, which he claims he wrote in just one hour, would be roared out by sporting crowds all over the USA, Britain and Australia well into the 21st century! Neil’s classmates at school included Barbra Streisand and chess master Bobby Fischer. Neil left college to pursue a career as a songwriter. He struggled initially but after I’m a Believer was a huge hit for The Monkees in 1966 he was on his way. His songs were recorded by Elvis, Cliff Richard and Lulu, and by the 1970s he had moved to Los Angeles and was having hits of his own, such as Cracklin’ Rosie and Song Sung Blue, as well as writing the soundtrack for the Jonathan Livingston Seagull movie. He appeared at the Glastonbury Festival in 2008, and by 2011 had been inducted into the Rock ‘n’ Roll Hall of Fame and received a Lifetime Achievement Award.
He has said that performing for an audience is “the most joyful and happiest thing I do” but he reluctantly had to retire from touring in 2018 after being diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease, which he now openly talks about to help others. He lives in Malibu and on retirement he said: “I have been so honoured to bring my shows to the public for fifty years!”
MISS WORLD
In medieval England and elsewhere, May Day was a time of celebration, with a ‘lord’ and ‘lady’ chosen to preside, and a pretty young woman crowned May Queen. These pagan ceremonies were disapproved of by the Church and the Puritans, under Oliver Cromwell, tried to stop them altogether. However, the tradition persisted and May Queens in the Victorian and Edwardian eras wore white dresses and crowns of flowers.
Informal beauty contests certainly existed well before the 20th century, but the first Miss America beauty pageant took place in Atlantic City, New Jersey in 1921.
The Miss World contest began in 1951, with 27 contestants and was won by Miss Sweden, above, Kerstin (Kiki) Harkansson. The contest was popular until the rise of Women’s Liberation movement in the 60s and 70s, when there were protests against the “objectification of women” and that judging them for their looks was demeaning.
Since then, the Miss World organisation has moved with the times, under its formidable Chair, Julia Morley. The contest now focuses on ‘empowering women’ and concentrates on contestants’ charity work, rather than their faces and figures. In May 2025, their Beauty with a Purpose Gala Dinner took place in Hyderabad, India. There were 108 contestants from every continent. All had run worthwhile community projects for the needy or disadvantaged, and Julia Morley was quoted as saying she was proud of the good these young women are doing in the world.
The contest now focuses on ‘empowering women’ and concentrates on contestants’ charity work, rather than their faces and figures
1980s
MADONNA
Known as the Queen of Pop, Madonna Louise Ciccone is the best-selling female recording artist of all time. She is also a highlysuccessful actress and the founder of her own company, Maverick, which has interests in record and film production, TV, book publishing and merchandising.
Born in Michigan, she moved to New York City aged 20 to study dance under Martha Graham, while working as a hat-check girl and lift operator to pay the rent. She also began writing songs and her debut album Madonna was released in 1982. By the mid80s, she was also a style icon as young girls worldwide began to wear lace blouses and punk-style jewellery. Like a Virgin was a huge hit single in 1984, followed the next year by a starring role in the movie Desperately Seeking Susan. She was married for two years to actor Sean Penn and later to director Guy Ritchie, with whom she has a son.
In 1996 she began filming Evita, a part she had always longed to play. Her music and film careers continued into the new century and she also founded her Ray of Light Foundation focusing on women and worldwide development. She has a son, David, adopted from an orphanage she supports in Malawi, as well as her daughter Lourdes with her former partner Carlos Leon.
In January 2023 she announced her latest Celebration Tour which was delayed when she became ill and had to be hospitalised. The tour eventually began at London’s O2 Arena. By the time it ended in Rio in May 2024 it had been seen by 1.6 million people – a record for any female artist.
Madonna owns several properties, including homes in the UK, Portugal, and the Hidden Hills gated community in California.
For Coffee Lovers
Discover bean17 in Loulé Market! Savour house-roasted Speciality Coffees like espresso or cappuccino, indulge in organic kombucha, and treat yourself to heavenly homemade cakes. Take the magic home with freshly-roasted organic Arabica beans from Peru and Ethiopia. Craving more? There are healthy breakfasts, light lunches, and a curated selection of premium products, including Portuguese olive oil, flor de sal, and more. Come for the coffee, stay for the joy!
Being a patient made easy
DR THOMAS KAISER OFFERS SOME TRIED-AND-TRUE TIPS TO HELP YOU GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR DOCTOR’S VISIT. THESE SUGGESTIONS ARE SIMPLE BUT CAN MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN HOW EFFECTIVE YOUR APPOINTMENT IS
1
Come prepared: Before your appointment, make a short, focused list of what you want to discuss. Include symptoms, questions, and concerns. Being organised helps you stay on track – and helps your doctor help you.
2
Stick to one or two issues: Doctors, for all their training, are still human. Trying to cover too many issues at once can lead to confusion or missed details. Limit each visit to one or two main concerns to get the best care possible.
3
Tell your story clearly: Begin with your main symptom or concern – in your own words, without interpretations. Let the doctor guide the conversation with follow-up questions. This process is called the anamnesis – your medical history. While your family’s history might be relevant, avoid starting the appointment with a long tale about your grandfather’s ailments.
4
Bring a medication list:
8 Protect your privacy: Because of confidentiality laws, your doctor cannot share your health information with anyone else – not even your partner. So, if you want test results or need to make an appointment, do it yourself.
9 Ask questions: Ask anything that’s unclear. If needed, request written explanations. A great question to ask is: “What would you do if you were in my situation?”
Google with caution. Ask for your doctor’s professional opinion and let them guide you with their experience and judgment.
Always carry an up-to-date list of your medications, including dosages. Don’t forget to mention any allergies to medications – this is vital for your safety.
5
Dress practically: Think about ease of examination. If you’re bundled in five layers, the doctor may have to waste time (and your comfort) peeling them off just to check your heart and lungs.
6
Bring a companion (if needed): It’s perfectly fine –and often helpful – to bring a family member or friend. Just keep it to one person. More than that, or young children in the room, can be distracting and unproductive.
7
Be honest – always: Doctors are bound by strict confidentiality. You can (and should) be completely open.
10 Google with caution: Yes, doctors use the internet – even ChatGPT! But avoid spending your appointment time recounting everything you found online. Instead, ask for your doctor’s professional opinion and let them guide you with their experience and judgment.
11 Trust the process: There are no shortcuts in medicine. Before treatment comes diagnosis. If your doctor recommends tests, it’s because they’re essential for understanding what’s going on. Let’s get the facts first.
12 Stick with the plan: Once there’s a diagnosis, your doctor will outline a treatment plan. Make sure you attend follow-up visits and stick to any agreed steps. Often, treatment needs to be monitored or adjusted along the way.
DR THOMAS KAISER of the Family Medical Centres says: “Doctors are here to help –ideally before you even get sick! Don’t just visit when something’s wrong. Prevention is always better than cure!”
REMOVALS
REMOVALS
• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain
STORAGE
• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain
• Full or part packing and wrapping service
STORAGE
• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain
• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain
• Shop online with any furniture retailer and have your items delivered the following week
• Shop online with any furniture retailer have your items delivered the following
• Full or part packing and wrapping service
• Fully insured, secure and alarmed
• Fully insured, secure and alarmed
• One/multiple items of furniture
• One/multiple items of furniture
• One box to full house removals
• One box to full house removals
• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve
• Storage available for long or short term
• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve
• Storage available for long or short term
• All customs paperwork and procedures taken care by our in house customs experts
Your money
RICARDO CHAVES OF ALL FINANCE MATTERS IS HERE TO HELP PEOPLE UNDERSTAND WHAT IS ALLOWABLE – AND NOT – WHEN IT COMES TO FINANCIAL MATTERS IN PORTUGAL. AFM EXPERTS CAN ADVISE YOU ON THE BEST WAYS OF DEALING WITH BOTH BUSINESS AND PERSONAL TAX MATTERS TO ENSURE YOU ARE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE POSITION
QCan I replace all my work equipment –computer, mobile phones, laptop, etc, and charge everything to taxes?
You should be able to use these expenses to lower your taxes and reduce your VAT liability. Make sure to keep all invoices with the business tax number to allow for the deductions.
Please consider that some businesses are VAT exempt; in this case, the VAT will not be usable in these circumstances. Also, if the business is registered in the simplified regime, it’s possible that the cost will not be considered, as in these cases the tax liability is based on a percentage of the gross income earned.
If you are on the accountancy regime, where you pay taxes based on the profit of your business, these expenses will allow you to lower your profit and consequently your tax liability, but remember that for higher-cost items like computers and laptops, the cost of the item is depreciated over a few years (three years in the case of a computer) rather than deducting the full amount in the year of purchase.
QIf you pay an individual or company monthly – in my case the gardeners – and there is no contract involved, am I required to give them a month’s notice if I don’t wish them to continue? They have been with me for two years but are not doing a good job.
You should seek legal advice because even when there is no formal contract, that doesn’t mean that you are not legally required to give notice.
However, it’s good practice to give notice to avoid misunderstandings and maintain a positive relationship. Please speak to a lawyer before making any decision.
QThere are stories circulating that the local Cámaras are going to close down all illegal wooden houses. There are a number near me but the residents have never created problems or noise. What will happen to these families?
And what will happen to the land those properties are on – will it be up for sale but without building permission?
Local authorities across several councils in the Algarve have either started or are planning to demolish illegal wooden houses. Residents of these homes might be required to vacate, and the authorities could take the land under administrative possession unless the residents voluntarily demolish the structures.
Loulé City Council has either initiated or is about to begin the demolition of 140 illegal wooden houses constructed within the municipality, which is part of a total of nearly 700 identified by the municipality. If you plan to buy a property here, it is crucial to stay informed about local regulations and any potential tax implications related to property ownership and land use. Always seek legal advice before purchasing property in Portugal and ensure that due diligence is properly conducted.
QI am in the middle of a divorce process and we have two children. In principle, we will be sharing custody of the kids, but how does it work in terms of tax? How is the tax treatment in the advent that one of the spouses pays the other a small alimony?
In the case of divorce with joint custody of the children, the invoices that are issued with the children’s fiscal number will be divided equally between both parents. This means that the tax deductions will be split between the parents.
However, in case one of the parents pays alimony they will have to choose between deducting the alimony paid to the other parent, or 50% of the expenses contained in the invoices issued with the children’s tax number.
Please note that 20% of the alimony pension will be deducted by the parent who pays it for tax purposes. On the other hand, the parent that receives this and deducts the full amount of the expenses of the kids will be liable for tax (up to 20%) of the alimony received.
Send questions you may have to info@afm.tax for possible inclusion in AlgarvePLUS. To consult directly with the experts at AFM, email info@afm.tax
CAST YOUR VOTE
NELSON
RAMOS OF RAMOS & ASSOCIADOS IN ALMANCIL OUTLINES THE DIFFERENCES THAT FOREIGN RESIDENTS CAN MAKE IF THEY TAKE UP THEIR ENTITLEMENT TO VOTE IN LOCAL GOVERNMENT ELECTIONS HERE ON THE ALGARVE
MUNICIPALITIES
manage core public services and urban planning, including: Urban development and land use; waste management and environmental protection; local transportation and road maintenance; education (maintenance and support of local schools); public health initiatives and emergency response; cultural, sports, and recreational activities; social support programmes for families, seniors, and vulnerable groups.
Municipalities also control local budgets and may raise taxes and fees to fund projects and services.
Juntas de Freguesia (Civil Parishes) handle more localised community matters including maintenance of parks, squares, and streets; issuance of administrative documents and attestations; organising cultural events and local activities; supporting local charities and community groups; providing basic social support and guidance to residents.
Together, municipalities and civil parishes form the backbone of local governance in Portugal, directly affecting communities in their daily lives.
As a resident, your vote can shape the future of your community.
Portugal permits foreign residents to vote in local elections, which include municipal councils and civil parish assemblies – if they meet specific legal requirements.
Eligibility to vote depends on nationality and duration of legal residence. Citizens
of other EU countries can vote in local elections in Portugal if they are registered in the electoral roll, and Portuguese citizens have reciprocal voting rights in their country of origin.
British nationals who were legally residing in Portugal before the Brexit deadline (31 January 2020) retain the right to vote in local elections, as per the EU–UK Withdrawal Agreement.
Nationals of Brazil and Cape Verde can vote after two years of legal residence. Citizens from Argentina, Chile, Colombia, Iceland, Norway, New Zealand, Peru, Uruguay, and Venezuela need three years of legal residence.
These voting rights apply exclusively to local elections. Foreign residents cannot vote in national elections, such as legislative or presidential programmes.
If you think your vote means nothing, take a look at the numbers of foreign residents in the Algarve.
Albufeira: Approximately 30%
Loulé: 25-28%
Tavira: 22-25%
Lagos: 20-22%
Portimão: 15-18%
Faro: 12-15%
Silves: 15%
Monchique: 10-12%.
These percentages illustrate the substantial foreign communities contributing to local culture, economy, and society. However, despite their numbers, voter registration among eligible foreigners often remains low. Imagine how different the Algarve would be if all the foreign
residents who are entitled to vote, did so.
Foreign residents must proactively register to vote. This must be done at least 60 days before election day, ie between 22 September and 14 October 2025. The official date will be announced by the government with a minimum of 80 days’ notice.
To register, visit your local Junta de Freguesia (civil parish office) or Loja do Cidadão (Citizen’s Bureau) with the following documents: a valid residence permit, or other legal proof of residency; a passport or national identity card; proof of address (eg a utility bill).
Once registered, your name will be added to the electoral roll of your parish and municipality. You will then be eligible to vote for the municipal council (including the mayor and councillors) and the civil parish assembly.
Despite the relative simplicity of the process, foreign voter registration needs to increase. But you can contribute to that. For foreign residents, participating in local elections is both a right and an opportunity. It is a way to influence the quality of life in your community, whether that’s the schools your children attend, the safety of your streets, or the cleanliness of your parks.
If you are eligible, register early, well before the 60-day deadline. Now that you know that you are entitled to vote, and how to do it, you can help change by simply exercising a right that you have.
Visit your local Junta de Freguesia or consult the National Election Commission website or the High Commission for Migration (ACM).
The Algarve’s premier Italian restaurant — and your local reference for tasteful living, in collaboration with our interiors and lifestyle shop.
The Great Migration, mixed media on canvas, 140x140cm.
COLLECTIVE ART EXHIBITION
Museu do Traje São Brás 966 329 073 amigosdomuseu.com
Until 19 July Ripple & Roar, with artworks by Helen Chance and Avril Thomas.
ART IN THE PARC
ArtCatto Pop Up Gallery
Vila Vita Parc, Porches artcatto.com
Newly Opened
Renowned international contemporary artists, a fusion of colour, form and emotion. Here, the work of Silvio Porzionato.
ART
IN THE PINK
Praça da República 69-75, Loulé, in-the-pink.com
From 10 July
At the Beach features works by David Yarrow, Nuno Cera, Kristian Schuller, Derrick Ofosu Boateng, Christian Chaize, Albert Watson, and Teresa Freitas that explore the universal joy of being near the sea where sand, sunshine and water serve as powerful symbols of beauty, freedom, and escape. Here, Nadja 3 by Kristian Schuller.
BJÖRN HEYN
GAMA RAMA
Rua do Prior 13, Faro 961 371 891 gamaramagallery@gmail.com
Until 23 August
In his collages, paintings and installations, Heyn recreates everyday life in an irreverent way, using a vibrant colour palette and humorous elements that transform the ordinary into something extraordinary.
BERNADETTE MARTINS
Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé
Until 2 August
From Flight to Land, a poetic exhibition that delves into the landscapes and fauna by this much-loved ceramicist who pays tribute to the connection between art and territory.
ALGARVE ARTISTS NETWORK (AAN)
Portimão Museum algarveartistsnetwork.com
5 July–28 September
Planeta Azul - Blue Planet explores the beauty and the vulnerability of our Earth and the need to protect and preserve its resources, especially the oceans, rivers, and lakes – without water no life is possible. Here, The Matriarch, acrylic on canvas, by BJ Boulter, 100x100cm.
FLUID BOUNDARIES
República 14, Olhão, Until 3 August
Artworks and wall-based sculpture by Ana António Gill, Carola Colley, Cristiano Sheppard Cruz and Tineke Storteboom, four artists in search for where movement and stillness are balanced.
WORKSHOPS
ART
WORKSHOPS IN OLHÃO
Lighthouse Art Courses info@lighthouse-artcourses.com lighthouse-artcourses.com
Workshops held in English. All materials included, but two own watercolour brushes necessary.
Portas e Janelas de Olhão 5 July, 14h00–18h30
A tribute to the town’s charming façades – from tiled walls to weathered wood. Learn how to simplify form, master light, and keep your brushwork bold and expressive. €95
Barcos de Olhão 6 July, 14h00–18h30
Paint the iconic fishing boats of Olhão, capturing their sunbleached colours and gentle rhythm on the water. €95
THE ART STUDIO
Tavira
R. Dr. Augusto da Silva Carvalho 3 912 584 271 theartstudiotavira.com
Workshops every week, 1.5 hours, €25, materials included Urban Sketching
After painting a ceramic piece, a transparent glaze will be applied and the work will go into the kiln for the final firing. This process ensures a glossy finish and that the piece is safe for contact with food.
SEWING WORKSHOP FOR YOUNG PEOPLE - LEVEL I
Palácio Gama Lobo, Loulé
9, 10 and 11 July, 09h00–13h00
Partners: Verónica Tomé and Ana Guerra Registration: v.tome@sapo.pt €85
This workshop aims to deepen the knowledge of the domestic sewing machine. Projects of intermediate difficulty, acquiring autonomy in making complete garments from start to finish, consolidating practical sewing techniques and skills.
Create a unique piece – a bowl, vase or mug – using the manual pinch pot technique, and personalise it with decorative elements such as simple figures, carved details, textures or reliefs. After the workshop, the pieces will be glazed and fired to be delivered, finished, a few weeks later.
Learn the traditional 17th-century tile painting technique using cobalt blue pigment, and recreating single figure tiles with the typical themes of flowers, animals and boats. Each participant can paint up to three tiles.
Museu do Traje
São Brás, 966 329 073
amigosdomuseu.com
4 July, 19h00, In the garden
The Original Algarve Band Great sounds to get feet tapping. You’ll be dancing the night away.Tickets €12 (Amigos €10). Reserve by phone or email.
12 July, 19h00, In the garden LATIN WAVE
Music with plenty of passion. Tickets €10 (Amigos €9). Reserve by phone or email.
Vale do Lobo
JAZZ & BLUES AT SUNSET BY GRINGO’S WASHBOARD BAND
Vale do Lobo Tennis Academy 5 July, 20h30–22h00
This summer, Vale do Lobo is thrilled to welcome back the Gringo’s Washboard Band for another vibrant live performance as part of the resort’s popular summer concert sessions. Blending infectious jazz, blues and Latin rhythms, the band promises an unforgettable evening full of energy and emotion. Celebrated for their deep roots in traditional New Orleans music, the band stands out for its authentic sound and the distinctive presence of the washboard – an iconic instrument that captures the very spirit of their unique style.
MUSIC
República 14, Olhão
republica14.pt
Reservations: linktr.ee/republica_14
5 July, 20h00 and 22h00
RODA DE SAMBA
Nani Medeiros and her band return for another lively and joyful night. The summer heat sets the tone for a vibrant evening filled with Brazilian spirit — featuring a delicious Brazilian Feijoada to match the occasion, alongside a great singer and exceptional musicians.
12 July, 21h00
TANGO POWER TRIO with ED LOPEZ
The Power Trio concept was born in rock and later extended to other genres such as jazz. Musicians
Juanma Navia (flutes), Tomás del Ciotto (electric bass), and Ramón Maschio (guitar) present this Argentine Tango project that brings together timeless classics and new compositions. Special guest: singer Ed Lopez.
TINA TURNER TRIBUTE
Vale do Lobo Parque do Golfe eventbrite.pt/ 19 July, 20h00–22h00
Don’t miss this unforgettable open-air concert on the golf course, featuring the sensational band Tina, The Queen of Rhythm.
19 July, 21h00 AMORKLAB
Inspired by the gypsy orchestras of the Balkans, this ensemble of six seasoned brass and wind musicians presents a repertoire that ranges from traditional Eastern European folk to the dazzling orchestrations of classical Turkish music, enriched by fresh and authentic original compositions. The voice of Selen Çapaci brings to life melodies from Anatolia, Thrace, Greece, Macedonia, and other musical treasures of the East.
26 July, 21h00 FRED MARTINS
Fred Martins presents Barbarizando Geral, an album created in collaboration with renowned percussionist Marcos Suzano, where samba and other Afro-Brazilian rhythms give voice to a social chronicle rich in irony, protest, and lyricism. The lyrics tackle themes such as authoritarianism, the environmental crisis, and disinformation. Recorded between Lisbon and Rio de Janeiro, the album features special guest appearances by MPB-4, Martín Sued, Nani Medeiros, among others.
This performance is a passionate celebration of a legend, guaranteed to have the audience singing their hearts out and dancing to the rhythm of the music in an electrifying atmosphere. Tickets €60 (€30 for Resort members)
MOVIES WITH A VIEW
Quinta dos Vales, Estômbar viewactivities.com
16 July, doors open 20h00 movie starts 21h00
The Devil Wears Prada. Enjoy local wines and grab some popcorn in the Sculpture Garden and an open-air screening surrounded by art, wines and starlight. Tickets €10 (blanket included!)
A much-loved annual events with rides, games and some really good music. All that plus close to 100 stalls, showcasing local arts and crafts including palm weaving, wooden dolls, tin work, embroidery and decorative arts. Family fun and lots to eat and drink.
WILD SWAN RETREATS
Vale de Água Monchique mountains July, August and September bookretreats.com/r/4-day-artspainting-meditation-retreatin-algarve-portugal marmahs@gmail.com
Sophie Austin and Simon Smith share their experience and love of the creative life with children and adults and produce a magical experience. One-to-one or up to four people in glamping tents with outdoor solar shower. Delicious vegetarian food and fresh juices prepared for you. Excursions to the beach to paint and picnic included.
And finally
HE IS ABSOLUTELY NOT A BEACH BABE, ANTHONY MARTIN ACCEPTS THAT, BUT HE DID WANT A PROJECT THAT WOULD SERVE TO ENHANCE HIS LIFESTYLE AWAY FROM THE SAND AND SURF. IT TOOK A WHILE, BUT HE ’ S THERE, SITTING BACK IN STYLE
AND NOW the summer season is in full swing, with visitors flocking to our magnificent cities and pristine beaches, which is great and to be expected. But not for me. Cities, yes; beaches no.
For no matter how many years I have been here, I still haven’t achieved that sculpted bod, which is not surprising really, as not only do I dislike sand, but I also have an aversion to exercise. I will admit, however, that in early May I started thinking about getting a little heathier, and I downloaded dozens of videos featuring knee-slapping chair Pilates aficionados, balance enthusiasts and elderly folk showing me how to get up from the floor without hanging on to a piece of furniture.
But as usual I was sidetracked by more interesting clips, and, let’s face it, videos on how to prepare the perfect sauce to accompany a Dover sole are far more appealing. And that is why the paunch remains firmly in place this summer, accompanied by the signature dodgy knees and flat feet.
Accepting that, I recognised that if I’m not going to spend these glorious months frolicking in the surf – that is if I could remember how to frolic – I needed a home project.
six-metre weevil-infested date palm with its fourmetre circumference trunk which dominated the terrace. Hence one morning a team of men arrived and, accompanied by the sound of a brace of chainsaws, down came the tree, leaving a massive stump to be removed by team number two, the stump-grinders, who unfortunately left the calçada surface looking like a building site.
At this point, I hadn’t started to work out the exact method of erecting the shade cover, and the cost had already exceeded my estimated figure but, as the saying goes, in for a penny in for a pound
I wondered if I could possibly get away with a sail shade strung between trees, or downgrade to a three-legged pergola.
Last winter, I decided that instead of relying on two large sun umbrellas to shade the slab of granite on the kitchen terrace, we needed a permanent fixture of some sort as, where I live, the sun has a habit of going walkabout during the afternoon, and dragging umbrellas into new positions to maintain shade does somewhat interrupt my precision BBQing, not to mention my relaxing lunch.
The original idea was four stout wooden uprights with a bamboo branch roof – simple but effective and inexpensive, but only possible if you ignored the
Next, in came team number three, the calceteiros who, with a sharp intake of breath, asked me if I knew that one corner of the terrace was 15cm lower than its opposing corner. This actually left me quite chuffed for I had been saying this for years, as I watched my sausages and peas rolling to the other side of the plate.
As team three measured and quoted for the levelling off and replacing calçada, I wondered, as costs were getting close to five figures, if I could possibly get away with a sail shade strung between trees, or downgrade to a three-legged pergola or – the ultimate solution – to only sit out there at night.
Actually, there was no choice. It’s all very well being able to seat 12+ on the terrace, but unless you want roasted guests they need to be in the shade, and four wooden uprights with a bamboo roof will not cut the mustard.
No, it had to be the six metre, purpose-built aluminium structure, complete with adjustable roof slats and concealed drop-down screens that now features proudly on my perfectly level terrace, allowing me to sit back and dine with friends in comfort, with the added bonus of knowing my sausages and peas will remain where I put them.
