Eastern Washington – with its unique rain shadow and diurnal shift – is a rising star in the wine world.
IN CASE YOU'VE BEEN OUT OF THE LOOP for the last few decades, Eastern Washington has been gaining some serious recognition as a premier wine-growing region. It seems like, in 2023, every conversation about Napa and Bordeaux and Tuscany now also must mention Walla Walla and Yakima. Five Washington wines made the the list of the world’s 100 best, published annually by Wine Spectator. But what is it about Eastern Washington that makes it so perfect for growing award-winning wine grapes?
Though the first wine grapes were planted in Washington nearly 200 years ago, by the mid-80s, there were just 40 wineries in the state. Now there are more than 1,000, and Washington has grown into the USA’s second-largest wine-growing state – and the growth seems to be accelerating. This spring, state production reports reflected a 34% increase in total grape production over last year. Several of Washington’s favorite varieties still top the list: chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc, and pinot gris had the most production for white wines. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and syrah topped the red wine output.
According to the Washington Wine Commission, "Washington is home to a diverse group of growing regions, which vary significantly by the amount of area they encompass, their climate, soils, and what is planted there. This diversity is one of the reasons such a large number of varieties succeed in Washington." As with many crops in Washington, irrigation from the Columbia River (below) is an integral part of successful farming.
Unlike many wine regions of the world, Washington cannot be defined by a single grape variety or even a group of grapes. The state has 20 different American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), each with a varied climate that allows a wide assortment of varieties to excel.
“Wine is about tasting a place, so when you taste a Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, you’re tasting Red Mountain,” said Shae Frichette of Frichette Winery. “Grapes here are a lot more intense and assertive. Weather, soil, the way the wind blows, the amount of water you get or don’t get – all of those factors come together and make what’s called terroir.”
Terroir is a big word in the wine world, and it essentially means the combination of factors that gives each wine grape a different flavor. Grapes grown in Washington will taste different from the same variety of grapes grown in California or Italy or Portugal, because of the terroir in which they are grown. Luckily, Washington’s unique geography and climate create optimal conditions for cultivating exquisite wines. Most farmers point to two crucial factors: the Cascade Rain Shadow and the diurnal effect of hot summer days and cold nights.
While many wineries keep tasting rooms in cities along the I-5 corridor, very few grapes are grown west of the Cascades, where it is too cool and rainy. To see the vineyards, you have to head east, over the Cascade Mountain Range, to places like Horse Heaven, Red Mountain, Chelan, and Wahluke.
The reason for this drastic difference in production between East and West is the rain shadow effect of the Cascades, which is quite dramatic. Seattle gets nearly 40 inches of rain a year, while the Columbia Valley is effectively a desert, with average rainfall around 10 inches in many places. But when you temper this arid climate with abundant irrigation from the Columbia and Yakima Rivers, things start to look “just right” for growing wine grapes.
The use of irrigation gives growers a high degree of control over the quality of their grapes, but it’s the heat itself that contributes to a grape’s flavor profile. During the growing season, the grapes receive up to 17 hours of sunlight a day, considerably longer than many other wine regions. Then, as night falls, the temperature drops significantly, a difference of as much as 47 degrees F between daytime high and nighttime low temperatures.
That daily temperature roller-coaster ride, called the “diurnal shift,” is a major factor in growing the best grapes. Those cooler temperatures help the grapes to maintain their acidity, which balances out the sweetness of the sugars that thrive in the heat. That effect is compounded as harvest time approaches, and the area’s daytime temperatures begin to cool down nicely. Wine regions all over the world count on these rapid temperature changes, but Washington’s are particularly abrupt. Compared to Bordeaux and Napa Valley, for instance, Eastern Washington is both hotter during summer days and colder during the harvest season.
As wine enthusiasts explore Eastern Washington's vineyards, from the sundrenched landscapes of Candy Mountain to the picturesque sites of Royal Slope and Ancient Lakes, they can truly taste the essence of each AVA’s distinct terroir. And the entire state is bonded by a winemaking culture that continues to push boundaries and produce wines of exceptional quality.
In the grand tapestry of the wine world, Eastern Washington has emerged as a dynamic and vibrant player, attracting attention and admiration alongside renowned wine regions. If you’ve been out of the loop for a few decades, it’s time to start taking notice, because Washington is poised to further solidify its place among the world’s finest wine destinations.
Three charts, from the Washington Wine Commission, tell the story of how Eastern Washington's climate is perfectly suited for growing wine grapes. The peak growing period (above) means Washington grapes get more sunlight. The rain shadow effect (middle) means Washington grape vines get the exact amount of water that they need. And the cooling temperatures in September and October (bottom) means that temperatures cool off at precisely the right time to ensure Washington grapes are perfectly balanced, resulting in exceptional wines. You can learn more at www.washingtonwine.org.
NESTLED IN THE HEART OF THE YAKIMA VALLEY, Two Mountain Winery stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of sustainable agriculture. For four generations, this family-owned winery has passionately cultivated grapes and crafted fine wines on its expansive 300-acre vineyard. In a pioneering move, Two Mountain Winery became the first Washington vineyard to achieve the esteemed green certification through RULES for Sustainable Wine Growing in 2020, demonstrating their commitment to environmental stewardship and community well-being.
Acknowledging the significance of sustainable practices, Two Mountain Winery collaborated with Sustainable WA to create a Washington-specific certification, catering specifically to the unique needs of local growers. Sustainable WA, an industry-led initiative, aims to ensure a thriving future for the agricultural community by emphasizing three key pillars: environmental soundness, social equity, and economic viability. Under this certification, vineyard owners are required to undergo regular, third-party audits to ensure adherence to sustainable practices.
Two Mountain Winery is leading the charge for sustainable wine grape growing in Washington.
Patrick Rawn, the vineyard operations manager at Two Mountain Winery, describes the Sustainable WA certification as a valuable checklist of best practices that encourages farmers to adopt a holistic approach to farm management. Rawn emphasizes the importance of considering the impact on the environment, the well-being of the team, and the long-term sustainability of the business. He states, "We can be the best farmers in the world, but if we can't do that and stay in business, it doesn't mean anything."
Two Mountain Winery has implemented several exemplary practices that have earned them recognition as leaders in sustainable agriculture. One notable practice is the utilization of cover crops between vineyard rows, which not only retains moisture, but also increases soil temperature, fostering a healthier growing environment. Additionally, the winery has installed a state-ofthe-art moisture monitoring system, equipped with probes placed strategically throughout the vineyard. These probes measure moisture levels at four-inch intervals down to a depth of 36 inches. By closely monitoring water usage, Two Mountain Winery has successfully reduced water consumption by an impressive 25%.
Rawn highlights the critical role of responsible water management, stating, "Water is a finite resource, and we should be doing everything we can to use as little of it as possible." By adopting such practices, Two Mountain Winery sets a commendable example for the entire industry, showcasing the positive impact that sustainable agricultural practices can have on conserving natural resources and mitigating environmental impacts.
The work being done at Two Mountain Winery and through Sustainable WA transcends the boundaries of their vineyards, positively impacting grape growers, winemakers, and consumers across the state. By committing to sustainable practices, the winery ensures a vibrant agricultural future, where generations to come can continue to farm and thrive in harmony with nature.
As Two Mountain Winery's story unfolds, it serves as an inspiration for wineries and growers worldwide, proving that by prioritizing sustainable practices, we can preserve the essence of our land, safeguard the well-being of our communities, and raise a glass to a promising future.
KSPS (Spokane)
Mondays at 7:00 pm and Saturdays at 4:30 pm ksps.org/schedule/
KWSU (Pullman)
Fridays at 6:00 pm nwpb.org/tv-schedules/
KTNW (Richland)
Saturdays at 1:00 pm nwpb.org/tv-schedules
KBTC (Seattle/Tacoma)
Saturdays at 6:30 am and 3:00 pm kbtc.org/tv-schedule/
KIMA (Yakima)/KEPR (Pasco)/KLEW (Lewiston)
Saturdays at 5:00 pm kimatv.com/station/schedule / keprtv.com/station/schedule klewtv.com/station/schedule
KIRO (Seattle)
Saturdays at 7:30 pm and Mondays at 2:30 pm or livestream Saturdays at 2:30 pm on kiro7.com kiro7.com
NCW Life Channel (Wenatchee) Check local listings ncwlife.com
RFD-TV
Thursdays at 12:30 pm and Fridays at 9:00 pm (Pacific) rfdtv.com/
*Times/schedules subject to change based upon network schedule. Check station programming to confirm air times.
Ingredients
• 3 to 4 medium russet or Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), well scrubbed and thinly sliced
• 1 1/2 large Cosmic Crisp, Fuji, or Granny Smith apples, cored and thinly sliced
• 4 to 5 ounces brie, cut into 1/8 inch slices
• 1 1/2 cups coarsely grated Parmesan cheese
Apple-Onion Cream Sauce Ingredients
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 3/4 cup chopped sweet onion
• 1/2 large Cosmic Crisp, Fuji, or Granny Smith apple, cored, peeled, and chopped (about 3/4 cup)
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 cup chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 1/4 lemon
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Salt and pepper, to taste
Complexity: Medium • Time: 2 Hours • Serves: 8
Adding apples to a potato gratin may be unexpected, though just a hint of sweetness lingers, and the flavors meld beautifully. Note that half of an apple will be used in the sauce. The other half will be sliced – along with another apple – for the layers of the gratin. You could omit the brie and use more Parmesan cheese for the middle layer if you like. This is an ideal side dish for steak or roasted chicken.
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Spray a 12-inch shallow baking dish with nonstick cooking spray or butter the dish.
For the sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, apple, and garlic and cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. The onion and apple shouldn’t brown; reduce the heat if needed. Add the chicken stock and lemon piece, bring the liquid to a boil, and simmer to reduce by about one quarter, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the cream and reduce by about half, a few minutes longer, stirring constantly. Take the pan from the heat. Remove and discard the lemon piece. Purée the sauce in a blender or use an immersion blender to carefully purée it in the pan. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then set aside until needed.
To assemble the gratin, arrange a layer of half the potato slices on the bottom of the prepared gratin dish, overlapping, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Top with a layer of half the apple slices and season lightly with salt and pepper. Arrange the brie slices evenly over the apple. Repeat with a layer each of the remaining potatoes and apples. Gently pour the cream
sauce over, allowing it to settle into the layers; if needed to help it seep down, spread it toward the edges where it will flow down more easily. Sprinkle the Parmesan cheese evenly over the top.
Set the gratin dish on a baking sheet to catch any drips and bake for 1 hour. Carefully take the gratin from the oven and test with a paring knife in the center; there should be very little resistance. If still a bit firm, continue baking until tender, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Let the gratin sit for about 15 minutes before cutting into pieces to serve.
WINE PAIRING: Acidity is essential when enjoying this dish, as the rich cream and starch need some brightness to balance it out. Try a crisp and acidic white Washington wine, like a riesling or chardonnay.
Provisions Restaurant and Market, a hidden gem in Yakima Valley, has quickly become a favorite among locals seeking gourmet cuisine with a down-home touch. Led by General Manager and Chef Lindsay Park, alongside her wife, Amy, Provisions has achieved remarkable success since its establishment in 2017 in partnership with Brig and Susie Temple.
Born and raised in the Yakima Valley, Lindsay Park's culinary journey took her to the bustling kitchens of Seattle before she felt a strong pull to return to her roots and serve her local community. Together with Amy, Lindsay turned their vision into reality, creating a thriving establishment that continues to attract and delight patrons to this day.
Provisions' reputation for exceptional cuisine stems from Chef Lindsay's dedication to incorporating locally sourced ingredients into her dishes. With a menu as diverse as the region itself, guests can savor a tantalizing fusion of flavors that pay homage to Washington's agricultural bounty.
A standout example of Provisions' commitment to showcasing local produce is Chef Lindsay's potato and apple gratin. This dish harmoniously blends the earthy richness of Washington's finest potatoes with the sweet juiciness of locally grown apples, presenting a mouthwatering tribute to the region's biggest crops. Find the recipe for this dish on page 11.
Beyond its culinary prowess, Provisions offers an inviting and relaxed atmosphere, creating the perfect backdrop for a memorable dining experience. Whether indulging in an intimate meal for two or gathering with friends, guests can enjoy the warm hospitality and exceptional food that have made Provisions a beloved destination.
Provisions Restaurant and Market, under the expert guidance of Chef Lindsay, has become an integral part of the Yakima community. With its dedication to gourmet cuisine with a homegrown feel, Provisions continues to attract discerning palates and captivate locals and visitors alike.
For an unforgettable dining experience that celebrates local flavors and a welcoming ambiance, look no further than Provisions Restaurant and Market in Yakima, Washington.
variety
The Frichette family came to Red Mountain on a coin flip. But their success here has nothing to do with chance.
She was from South Carolina. He was from Washington. So when her husband Greg suggested they move from Southern California to be closer to their parents, Shae Frichette wasn’t sure which coast he was referring to. After a fateful coin toss determined their destination, they found themselves in Benton City, Washington, pursuing a new dream – making bold red wines to match their personalities.
Starting with a modest 605 cases of 2011 vintage wine, Frichette Winery has grown into a thriving boutique winery, producing nearly 3,000 cases annually. Their dedication to crafting exceptional wines has earned them a loyal following and placements in reputable restaurants and shops throughout the Pacific Northwest.
Both agreed that when they moved to Washington, they wanted to create a business that would give them goosebumps. And while winemaking was new for both of them, it plays to natural strengths that both Greg and Shae had developed in other careers. When asked about her expertise, Shae humorously remarks, “Well, I drank wine. So, I mean, how much of an expert do you need to be? You get your expertise from drinking wine.”
But even a quick conversation with Shae and Greg reveals that they’re remarkably fast learners when it comes to wine. Shae is an engaging conversationalist and often takes extra time to explain the finer points of winemaking on Red Mountain. Ripe and intense are the keywords here, as she describes the presence of big, dark, berry and plum flavors in a Red Mountain cabernet sauvignon. By allowing the grapes to hang longer, they undergo transformative changes, becoming less acidic and sweeter, ultimately leading to a more robust and flavorful wine. Their winemaking process is meticulous, using a refractometer to test the grapes' sugar content and ensure perfect ripeness.
Together, they have focused on showcasing the bold reds and Bordeaux varieties that grow so well on Red Mountain. In addition to their main label offerings like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and malbec, Greg shows off a petit verdot that is riotously colorful with a bold, fruity flavor that pairs nicely with barbecue.
The excitement in Shae’s voice is contagious as she presents her personal favorite, a separate label named Sashay, a playful nod to her own name but which carries a profound personal meaning. Shae created the label in 2016 to inspire other women to make positive change in the world. The boldness of the wine is reflected not only in its flavor but also in the empowering message on the label: “You are strong. You are courageous. You are fierce.”
“I saw my first black female winemaker a few years ago. I had never seen a black female winemaker. I was so inspired that I wanted to create a wine that was more of an expression of me,” Shae says. “I love the word ‘sashay,’ because my mom and her sisters used to go, ‘Look at you sashaying like you don't have a care in the world.’ The wine is bold, and the back of the label says, ‘You are strong. You are courageous. You are fierce. You have the ability to create positive change in this world. So lift your chin, push your shoulders back, and sashay, girl, sashay.’”
Frichette Winery is a testament to the power of pursuing one's dreams, the beauty of the land, and the artistry of winemaking. With Shae and Greg Frichette leading the charge, the winery continues to evolve, crafting wines that embody the spirit of the Yakima Valley and leave a lasting impression on all who taste them. As you savor a glass of Frichette wine, you can't help but feel the excitement and optimism for what the future holds for this exceptional winery. Frichette Winery is an invitation to sashay through life, embracing strength, courage, and the ability to create positive change — one sip at a time.
The Washington Grown project is made possible by the Washington State Department of Agriculture and the USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant program, through a partnership with the state’s farmers.
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