VISITvortex Autumn 2025 Magazine

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BE DRAWN IN

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be drawn in

our mission is to help stimulate the local economy by promoting and introducing the faces behind independently owned businesses.

VISITvortex is a celebration of each season and a portal to the great people and places of the Hudson Valley. Sharing the very best of local.

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cover writer

Jesse Marcus

Melissa Hewitt

Jean Cassidy

Melissa Orozco

Jesse Marcus

Melissa Orozco

Rachel Collet

Johannes Plenio

Anne Pyburn Craig

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HIGH FALLS FOOD CO-OP

STEAKS, CHOPS, ROASTS, GROUND AND MORE

STEAKS, CHOPS, ROASTS, GROUND AND MORE CALL TODAY FOR AN APPOINTMENT 845-807-1335 | 845-866-7155

TODAY FOR AN APPOINTMENT 845-807-1335 | 845-866-7155

STEAKS, CHOPS, ROASTS, GROUND AND MORE CALL TODAY FOR AN APPOINTMENT 845-807-1335 | 845-866-7155

info@hahnbrosfarm.com | www.hahnbrosfarm.com

206 Anawanda Lake Rd., Callicoon Center, NY 12724

206 Anawanda Lake Rd., Callicoon Center, NY 12724

206 Anawanda Lake Rd., Callicoon Center, NY 12724 facebook: @HahnBrosFarm

info@hahnbrosfarm.com | www.hahnbrosfarm.com

206 Anawanda Lake Rd., Callicoon Center, NY 12724

info@hahnbrosfarm.com | www.hahnbrosfarm.com

facebook: @HahnBrosFarm

info@hahnbrosfarm.com | www.hahnbrosfarm.com

facebook: @HahnBrosFarm

facebook: @HahnBrosFarm

Our Farms

fall farm fun in the hudson valley & catskills
Photo by Tim Mossholder.

Welcome to harvest time! All up and down the Hudson Valley, all through the Catskills hills, you can feel, taste, and smell the joy of another successful year of collaboration with our beloved Mama Nature to create some of the finest food and fun on Planet Earth. Apple picking, pumpkin patches, corn mazes, sweet cider donuts and fresh-baked pies, hayrides…this season stokes the senses and lifts your heart.

Breathe in a good deep breath of that crisp morning breeze. It’s been busy rustling the leaves of those gloriously heavy fruit trees. Lace up your sneakers, grab a sweater, and dive into the deliciousness.

go picking

This is prime apple country. We’ve been growing fine, fine apples here since the Colonial era. We’re blessed with unique terroir that apples just love, and farmers that know how to work with it for fantastic results. You’ll find a cornucopia of color and flavor, offering the perfect apples for everything from snacking to baking, and friendly farm folks to help guide you to exactly what you’re after. It’s a great family outing—orchards are fun to explore for kids of all ages, and there’s no better way to understand just where food comes from than biting into an apple still warm from the autumn sunshine. Don’t forget a gallon of cider, the perfect autumn BBQ beverage, whether sweet or hard.

Photo by Joshua Tsu.

play in the pumpkin patch

We have seriously great pumpkins here, too, glowing orange orbs with their very own personalities, just waiting for you to select them, personalize them, and light them from within. When was the last time you carved a jack-o’-lantern? It’s probably been too long. Go find your dream squash, scoop out the seeds, dry them in a low oven with a little salt, and have a carving party. Or just grab a couple of cool ones for the porch and pair with some of the lovely fall decor you can probably find at the same stand: hanging baskets of fall flowers, graceful bundles of dried grasses. And did you know that you can bake a halved pumpkin with nothing but a little butter and cinnamon for a truly splendid, nutritious side dish?

baked treats

Many of our farms have bakeries; some still make pies using generational legacy recipes. Cider donuts, of course, are everywhere, and there’s a reason for that—but you haven’t really tasted one till you’ve had one baked fresh that morning just steps from where the apples grow. And don’t neglect the specialty breads, tarts, and other wonders that are so plentiful this time of year.

Photo by Christopher Luther.
Photo by Oat Appleseed.
Photo by Gummy Bone.

hayrides, corn mazes, and more

There’s nothing like the sound of a corn maze, a mixture of breeze rippling through the stalks, happy yelps, and laughter.

Farms outdo themselves each year creating the craftiest designs to get you gloriously, blissfully lost for a little while. And there’s a timeless delight in perching on a fragrant hay bale while a vintage tractor pulls you through a glorious farmscape ringed by mountain views.

fall farm highlights in our counties

Each Hudson Valley and Catskills farm has a personality all its own, from the centuries-old operations to the newer ventures; some have all kinds of activities for guests, while at others you’ll find simple peace amid the plenty. There are syrup and honey specialists, flower fanatics, livestock producers, and fiber farmers in the mix.

Checking the farm’s website or even calling on the day you plan to visit is a good idea—these are working farms, vulnerable to weather and a long list of other factors that can impact what’s available when.

Photo by Hannah McBride.

Kelder's Farm in Kerhonkson offers apple and pumpkin picking, as well as a vast array of family amusement, going beyond hayrides and corn mazes with a Jumping Pillow, Combine Slide, Candy Cannon, and much more, There’s food at the Farmers Grill and adult beverages at the Loading Dock Tap Room; come during the Fall Festival (September 8–November 2) for the full fall farm experience.

Grove Fruit Farm & Brewing Co. in Milton is a seventh-generation family operation with three generations hands-on. They offer u-pick every weekend during the month of October; after you’ve got your fruit, check in at the family-friendly Brewery Barn for fine house-made craft beverages to wash down the goodies from a selection of food trucks.

ULSTER COUNTY

saunderskill farms

Saunderskill Farms in Accord is a beloved Hudson Valley destination for fall fun. Beginning the last weekend of August and continuing through mid-November, they offer 10 varieties of pick-your-own apples. Visitors can also wander through the free corn maze, pick pumpkins straight from the patch, and enjoy a scenic horse-drawn hayride through the farm's beautiful fields. Don’t miss their vibrant display of over 4,000 blooming mums, available in a rainbow of autumn colors.

5100 Route 209, Accord | 845-626-2676 | saunderskill.com

stone ridge orchard

Stone Ridge Orchard in Stone Ridge is a 200-year-old working farm using sustainable practices and offering a wide range of pick-your-own apples in the fall, plus other local delectables at the farm stand. The Farm Bar, open weekends in September and October, serves up cider flights and New York State beer, wine, and cocktails.

3012 Route 213, Stone Ridge | 845-687-2587 | stoneridgeorchard.com

wallkill view farm

Wallkill View Farm in New Paltz offers pick-your-own pumpkins every weekend in October, with a corn maze and a free scenic hayride with Shawangunk Mountains views. Don’t forget to pick up some fresh-baked cider doughnuts or a pie from the onsite bakery, and maybe a hanging basket of pretty mums from the greenhouse.

wright ' s farm

Wright’s Farm in Gardiner is a fifth-generation family farm offering a quintessential fall experience with over 100 acres of u-pick apples and pumpkins, fresh cider, and a farm market brimming with baked goods, preserves, and gourmet specialties. On weekends, enjoy live music, food trucks, and hayrides at their own Gardiner Brewing—perfect for a family day out or a seasonal stroll through rows of ripe fruit trees with views of the Shawangunk Ridge.

15 Route 299, New Paltz | 845-255-8050 | wallkillviewfarmnewpaltz.com

699 Route 208, Gardiner | 845- 255-5300 | eatapples.com

DUTCHESS COUNTY

cedar heights orchards

Cedar Heights Orchards in Rhinebeck is a 150-year-old family operation on a gorgeous hillside with Catskills views, where you can pick among a wide variety of heirloom and newer varieties of apples any day of the week until October 9, and bring a picnic besides. They’re experimenting with some new high-density growing methods and cider varieties; apple-growing geeks can see the state of the art here.

8 Crosby Lane, Rhinebeck | 845-876-3231 | rhinebeckapples.com

fishkill farms

Fishkill Farms in Hopewell Junction welcomes you to make a reservation and come pick organic sunflowers, pears, apples, and pumpkins; the farm store offers a wide range of artisanal local products and fresh baked goods, the Treasury Cider Bar is house-made from tree to glass, and there’s an outdoor grill serving farm-fresh goodies to eat at the picnic tables.

9 Fishkill Farm Rd, Hopewell Junction | 845-897-4377 | fishkillfarms.com

greig farm

Greig Farm in Red Hook opens its PYO apple season in late August, with 11 varieties of apples available through October, when they also offer multiple varieties of pumpkins and gourds. There are trails to walk, and pygmy goats and koi fish to feed. There’s a farm market and café, as well as an Airstream food truck, and you can wash it all down with something delicious and locally crafted from the Barn Taproom.

227 Pitcher Ln, Red Hook | 845-758-8007 | greigfarm.com

Meadowbrook Farm Apple Orchard and Market in Wappingers Falls is a third-generation family operation that offers apple picking and pumpkins for sale through October, along with their own cider and homemade goodies. You can pay a visit to the chickens, ducks, and goats, then visit the market to get fruit and baked goods, pre-order holiday pies, and do some early gift shopping.

meadowbrook farm apple orchard & market 29 Old Myers Corners Rd, Wappingers Falls | 845-297-3002 | facebook.com/MeadowbrookApples

DELAWARE COUNTY

echo orchard & farm

Echo Orchard & Farm in Hamden is a former dairy farm on the West Branch of the Delaware River that now practices permaculture and makes cruelty-free wool products; as a no-spray orchard growing mostly cider apples, they don’t offer apple picking, but you can come pick pumpkins in September and October and meet the hens and sheep.

hodgson riverbank farm

Hodgson Riverbank Farm in Downsville welcomes pumpkin pickers with a wagon ride out to the field, which offers over 5,000 pumpkin choices. You’ll also find mums, asters, ornamental kale, and corn stalks to inspire the perfect autumn tableau, as well as fresh autumn veggies—creative use of high tunnels keeps them picking late into the season.

8151 Co Rd 26, Hamden | 802-578-0731 | echoorchard.com

3345 River Road, Downsville | 845-629-6762 | hodgsonriverbank.farm

maplewood farm & orchard

Maplewood Farm & Orchard in Bovina Center offers PYO apples and pumpkins on weekends from mid-September through Columbus Day, along with Li’l Buckaroo Rodeos and roping lessons. They’re also an ancestral maple-syrup operation with a sugar house full of outstanding syrups and maple sugar candies.

maxwell farm

Maxwell Farm in Delhi offers PYO pumpkins and, to the best of our knowledge, the only giant marshmallow maze in the region. It’s a relatively young operation with a fine sense of fun—come see why the Catskills are growing a new crop of farmers.

596 Miller Avenue, Bovina Center | 607-287-8682 | maplewoodfarmny.com

21287 Route-28, Delhi | 607-376-1357 | facebook.com/p/Maxwell-Farm-Delhi

Buck Brook Alpacas in Roscoe is located atop one of the highest peaks in the Sullivan Cats; you can sign up for a tour or walk, meet the critters, soak up the spectacular foliage views, try your hand at gem mining, and browse the Farm Store, which stocks handmade alpaca wool products.

SULLIVAN COUNTY

cunningham family farms 233 Hurd and Parks Road, Swan Lake | 845-583-4083

Cunningham Family Farms in Swan Lake offers pumpkin picking and a wide range of fall family fun: Sullivan County’s largest corn maze (with a ghost hunt option, no less!), giant checkers and chutes and ladders games, hay rides, a hay bale pyramid, and gem mining. The party’s on from Labor Day through Halloween.

Hahn Bros. Farm in Callicoon Center is a sixth-generation family project evolving since 1857. Nowadays, beef, goat meat, and veggies are sustainably and carefully raised. We also have a 24/7 self-serve stand onsite with all cuts of beef and goat, as well as beef tallow. Tours are offered by appointment; come meet the critters, learn about sustainable methods, and pick up something succulent for your holiday table.

hahn bros . farm 206 Anawanda Lake Road, Callicoon Center | 845-807-1335 hahnbrosfarm.com

We are located in the heart of The Catskill Mountains. We carry Minnetonka Moccasins, chimes, puzzles, local books & maps, gemstones, homemade fudge, jewelry, candy, t-shirts, games, crafts and so much more. We are packed to the rafters with fun, practical, and hard-to-find merchandise. Come visit us for a unique shopping experience.

OUR HOMEMADE FUDGE IS WORTH THE TRIP!

the Colors

8 scenic walks & light hikes for fall foliage Catch

Every autumn, the forests of the Catskills and Hudson Valley burst into a show of color—fiery reds, warm oranges, golden yellows—transforming quiet trails into glowing corridors of fall magic. You don’t need to be a hardcore hiker to enjoy the season’s brilliance. In fact, some of the most breathtaking views are accessible by easy walks or gentle hikes, perfect for families, photographers,

or anyone who simply wants to slow down and savor the crisp air and colorful scenery.

I’ve rounded up two must-do fall strolls in each of four beautiful counties—Ulster, Delaware, Sullivan, and Dutchess. From lakeside loops to quiet mountain views, these spots offer the full foliage experience without requiring a steep climb or technical trail.

ulster county: reservoir views and lakeside loops

1. Ashokan Rail Trail, West Hurley: If you’re looking for a flat, accessible trail with unbeatable Catskills views, the Ashokan Rail Trail is a go-to. Stretching 11.5 miles along the northern edge of the Ashokan Reservoir, this wide, crushed-stone path offers open views of the mountains, mirror-like water, and thick forests bursting with fall color. It’s dog friendly, stroller friendly, and ideal for walking or biking. Several access points make it easy to choose a short segment or a longer trek, if you’re feeling energized.

Tip: Start at the Woodstock Dike Trailhead for expansive views of the Catskills and picnic spots. Depending on the year, the trail is typically especially beautiful from early to mid-October, when the maples and oaks are at their peak.

2. Lake Minnewaska Loop, Minnewaska State Park Preserve: Set on the Shawangunk Ridge, Lake Minnewaska is a popular but peaceful escape for fall leaf-peeping. The loop around the lake is about 2 miles, mostly flat, and runs along a gravel carriage road. Along the way, you’ll see sheer cliffs, reflective lake views, and endless rows of trees ablaze in autumn hues. And if you’re a fan of the hit show Severance (which was filmed throughout the Hudson Valley!), get excited to visit some of the sights of the Lumon ORTBO.

Tip: Arrive early on weekends—Minnewaska is a favorite destination, and parking fills up fast during foliage season.

Ashokan Rail Trail.
Lake Minnewaska Loop. Photo by Tanisha Rivera.
Lake Minnewaska Loop. Photo by Ivanna Kaleniuk.

delaware county: hilltop views and quiet trails

1. Mount Utsayantha, Stamford: Don’t let the name intimidate you— this is one of the easiest mountaintop views you can access in the Catskills. Mount Utsayantha sits just above the village of Stamford and offers a stunning 360-degree view from a historic fire tower. You can hike to the summit via a short (about 2-mile roundtrip) trail or drive most of the way up and take a short walk to the tower. Either way, it’s a peaceful spot to see the full color palette of the western Catskills.

Tip: The best views are often in the morning when fog lingers in the valleys and the sun lights up the treetops.

2. Palmer Hill Trail, Andes: This little-known gem near the town of Andes is a gentle loop that offers huge scenic payoffs. The 3.7-mile trail winds through open meadows and forest edges, with clear views of surrounding hills blanketed in vibrant color. It’s a quiet, pastoral walk—ideal for photographers, birders, or anyone wanting to escape into nature without much effort.

Tip: Bring layers—this area sits at higher elevation and can get breezy in the fall.

Palmer Hill Trail. Photo by Jacqueline Weiner.
Mount Utsayantha.
Photo by Peter Murphy.
Mount Utsayantha. Photo by Carly Balfour.
Palmer Hill Trail. Photo by Rachael Owens.

sullivan county: forest loops and riverside strolls

1. Walnut Mountain Park, Liberty: Just outside the village of Liberty, Walnut Mountain Park offers a surprisingly large trail network with something for everyone. While some trails are moderate, there are many easy, well-maintained loops perfect for fall walking. You’ll pass through woodlands full of sugar maples and birches, with occasional openings revealing long views of the western Catskills. The trails are also shared with mountain bikers, so keep an eye out.

Tip: Visit mid-to-late October for the best color in this area and pack a lunch—the picnic areas are lovely this time of year.

2. Tusten Mountain Trail (Delaware River section), Narrowsburg:

The full Tusten Mountain loop is moderate, but the early section of the trail follows the Delaware River and can be enjoyed as a shorter out-and-back walk. You’ll stroll through peaceful riverfront woods lit up with color, with occasional views of the river itself. It’s a great option if you’re near Narrowsburg and want a low-effort nature fix.

Tip: Combine your walk with a visit to Main Street in Narrowsburg— grab a coffee in town or browse the local shops before or after your hike.

Tusten Mountain Trail. Photo by Jacqueline Botto.
Walnut Mountain Park.
Photo by Zach Lyons.
Walnut Mountain Park. Photo by Bobby Reynolds.
Tusten Mountain Trail. Photo by Brian Kienholz.

1. Ferncliff Forest, Rhinebeck: A favorite among locals and visitors alike, Ferncliff Forest is a peaceful woodland preserve just minutes from the heart of Rhinebeck. The main trail is a flat, easy loop that leads to a 60-foot fire tower. Climb the stairs to take in an incredible view of the Hudson River and Catskill peaks beyond. Even from ground level, the fall foliage is rich and colorful, thanks to the preserve’s dense tree canopy.

Tip: Rhinebeck is a fantastic fall town—plan a day around your visit, including a meal at one of the town’s cozy restaurants.

2. Poets’ Walk Park, Red Hook: Operated by Scenic Hudson, this 120-acre park is beloved for its rolling meadows, romantic landscape design, and classic Hudson River views. The easy 2-mile loop winds through open fields, forest paths, and along the bluff above the river. Named for the poets (like Washington Irving) who were inspired by its beauty, Poets’ Walk is arguably one of the most photogenic fall walks in the region.

Tip: Go in the golden hour before sunset for soft light and stunning photography. Leashed dogs are welcome.

Poets' Walk Park. Photos by Sandy Reina.
Ferncliff Forest.
Photo by Kelly Smisko.
dutchess county: classic hudson valley charm
Ferncliff Forest.
Photo by Rani R.

planning your visit: tips for fall walks

• Timing is everything: In this region, fall color typically peaks between late September and late October, depending on elevation. Ulster and Delaware Counties tend to peak first, followed by Sullivan and Dutchess.

• Dress in layers: Mornings can be chilly even on sunny days. A warm base layer, light fleece, and a windproof jacket will keep you comfortable.

• Pack smart: Water, snacks, a charged phone, and a basic trail map are always a good idea—even for short walks.

• Leave no trace: Respect nature and fellow walkers by packing out your trash and staying on marked trails.

Whether you’re driving up from the city for a day trip or living locally and seeking a weekend activity, these walks offer a perfect slice of fall in the Catskills and Hudson Valley. No climbing gear, trekking poles, or peak bagging required—just a love for crisp air, golden leaves, and beautiful, accessible trails.

These hikes and tips have been provided by Cliff Goldstein of Hike With Cliff. He leads hiking adventures throughout the Hudson Valley and Catskills for explorers of all ages and levels, including large wedding and corporate groups. He not only ensures you have an engaging and rewarding experience in the mountains but also sends you home with a full album of photographs to remember your day. Reach out to Cliff on Instagram at @hikewithcliff or visit hikewithcliff.com.

Photo by Shashi Chaturvedula.
Photo: Andrea MacScott

hudson river maritime museum

Want to understand Hudson Valley history? At the Hudson River Maritime Museum (HRMM), on the Strand in Kingston, the connection between humans and the glorious river Herself is celebrated in numerous ways. Guests can check out a vast collection of artifacts: paintings, prints, photographs, ship models, memorabilia, ephemera, ice yachts, and a shad fishing boat that’s over 100 years old. There are exhibits on the steamboat Mary Powell, ferries, Hudson River Day Line, tugboats,

ice boats, river industries and ecology, and lighthouses. Boats you’ll meet in person include an 1898 steam tug, Mathilda, and her 21st-century sister, the Solaris, the first solar-powered tour boat ever licensed as a passenger vessel by the US Coast Guard.

It’s fitting that the first solar tour boat’s home port is right here on the Hudson. The first-ever commercial steamboat ran her maiden passenger journey here in 1807, making a 32-hour run from New York City to

Boats you’ll meet in person include an 1898 steam tug, Mathilda , and her 21st-century sister, the Solaris , the first solar-powered tour boat ever licensed as a passenger vessel by the US Coast Guard.

Albany with a 24-horsepower engine propelling a 136-foot boat. (They had sails, just in case.)

People stopped calling it Fulton’s Folly after that, and steam travel was soon the way to go. In 1925, the Hudson River Day Line carried nearly 2 million people aboard sidewheel steamers fitted out with bespoke woodwork and Tiffany glass, amid cargo steamers—tugboats pulling barges laden with coal, brick, glass, lumber, stone, and whatever else could be sold to the growing city to the south. Rail and automobiles ended the era, but lives had been defined by it.

“A group of preservationists, several of them men who’d worked on the river, got together in 1979 and started a museum about it all,” HRMM executive director Lisa Cline says. “They celebrated the steamboats mostly, but the sloops too, and the industries on the river—the stuff that created the Hudson Valley as we know it today,”

Amid the economic struggles of the mid-2000s, the small storefront museum faced an existential threat. The old guard was ready to close down and sell the building to a developer—but it turned out that maritime history

In 1925, the Hudson River Day Line carried nearly 2 million people aboard sidewheel steamers fitted out with bespoke woodwork and Tiffany glass, amid cargo steamers—tugboats pulling barges laden with coal, brick, glass, lumber, stone, and whatever else could be sold to the growing city to the south.

could still stoke local passion, decades after the last Day Liner blew its final whistle.

“A local doctor had joined the board, and he got really motivated,” Cline says. “He brought in a bunch of new board members and they voted down the sale, and it was a great infusion of new energy. They started talking about ways to grow.”

The group built an adjacent barn and started using it for summer programs, renting the space to Hudson River Sloop Clearwater in the winter

months. You couldn’t miss it: something new was happening down on the waterfront. The Rondout Rowing Club, the Kingston High School varsity rowing team, and the Kingston Sailing Club were soon operating out of the museum campus, and other community groups of all ages started coming by.

“We’ve opened up our minds to what the HRMM mission means, and it all started with that barn,” Cline says.

“Then it was, ‘Let’s start a wooden boat school,’ which is now the Woodworking School, because we wanted to open it

"This is a blue collar museum, a museum about hardworking people, and that’s the kind of history that defines Ulster County’s success story,” Cline says. “The Rondout area right now is a wealth of learning.”

up to people who wanted to build something besides a boat, so we do that as well.”

Cline became director in 2015. “The Wooden Boat School created a lot of excitement and a lot of work,” she says. “From there, we just kept riffing on new ideas. People love doing things with their hands and learning that the same skills were used 200 years ago, and we deepened the kind of layered, experiential learning we love to do here. We added another layer with the Sailing and Rowing School, and that’s really thriving now too. We had to teach ourselves how to do each of these things as we went along, and we learned some parts the hard way.”

The Solaris was originally built for a private client, but when Cline fell in love with the

idea of using it as the museum’s tour boat, the client agreed. “The vessel was getting the finishing touches and the owner was about to come pick it up, and I said, ‘Wait! We need a tour boat!’ and he was very nice about selling to HRMM, even held the mortgage for us,” she recalls. “That boat, like the barn and the schools, have changed everything. Solaris is the perfect learning platform—kids love it, adults love it, everyone loves it. All tour boats are fun, but when you’re on the larger tour boats you’re 20 feet off the water. Solaris is closer to the water and everything feels more intimate and quiet—even the music cruises.”

Making friends and educating people is a mission that the HRMM of today takes on with passion, on land and water alike.

HRMM is composed of three schools, really,” Cline says. “We have the maritime history of the river that we teach in the museum tours, exhibits, walking tours, lectures, and documentaries. With the Woodworking School and the Sailing and Rowing schools, we get people involved with hands-on experiences. And we teach kids how to build a boat that they can either sail or row, so we teach them both skills at the same time.”

The HRMM collaborates with other treasure troves of local lore—like the Century House Historical Society museum and the D&H Canal Museum, to offer driving tours and boost one another’s signals. “HRMM is a blue collar museum, a museum about hardworking people, and that’s the kind of history that defines Ulster County’s success story,”

Cline says. “The Rondout area right now is a wealth of learning. You can visit us, visit our neighbors at the Trolley Museum, go to the Reher Center up the street, and learn about the immigrant experience here in the Hudson Valley.”

Aboard Solaris, lighthouse tours, history tours—including one focused on indigenous lifeways along the Hudson and others exploring Rondout Creek shipwrecks—wine tasting tours, and sunset tours are ongoing through October, as are the sailing classes. And this October, the HRMM will welcome a replica canal boat, the Erie Canal boat Seneca Chief, for two nights of its journey from Buffalo to New York City. The celebration will include a documentary in advance of a two-night visit, October 21-22, that will feature open boat hours, lectures,

50 Rondout Landing, Kingston 845-338-0071, hrmm.org presentations, and school trips. An October lecture at the museum will focus on the river’s Prohibition-era history, rich in rum runners and their exploits. Looking ahead, the HRMM is actively collaborating with the City of Kingston to mitigate the effects of climate change on its flood-prone waterfront location and on the rest of the Strand. “We’re looking at ways to be proactive—maybe raising some of our buildings, maybe floating spaces,” Cline says. “We had a couple of years with two or three floods. We’ve been lucky so far this year, but that’s how climate change goes—it’s intermittent and difficult to handle.

We’re not yet sure how to solve every problem, but we intend to end up with a beautiful raised campus.”

Cline loves welcoming guests with the message that our waterways connect us all. Nothing beats the awe on a child’s face when they understand that “you can go out of the creek in front of our campus to our lighthouse, make a right, and go to New York City and then anywhere in the world. Or you can make a left and go to the Erie Canal and then down the Mississippi and then anywhere in the world. This river is just amazing. We’ve used it and abused it, and it just keeps coming back, keeps carrying us along.”

hudson river maritime museum

Explore

autumny day trips in each of 5 counties

From enchanting forests to upbeat downtowns, from river ports bursting with history to mountaintops revealing glorious panoramas, you’re surrounded by natural beauty, centuries of history, and clever creativity anywhere in the Hudson Valley and Catskill Mountains.

That said, the precise flavors and seasonings of each place are different—sometimes subtly, sometimes dramatically. There’s a lot to be said for choosing a base camp that aligns with your desired vibe and with what you want to do with your time. That way, from the moment you poke your head out the door in the morning till the end of your day, you can luxuriate in precisely what you’re after. Less time in the car means more time for soaking it all in.

Or maybe you have your base of operations all picked out, but you’d like to take a day trip to someplace with a whole ’nother feel to it.

You’ll find loads of opportunities for wildly diverse experiences put together into one journey—without feeling rushed or ending up exhausted. Then too, just getting from one place to the next leads you through gorgeous terrain sprinkled with quirky surprises. And this time of year, the lovely foliage and crisp fall air envelop the entire Realm like a lovely patchwork of featherweight silk.

So here’s an INSIDER’S GUIDE TO ONE DELECTABLE TOWN IN EACH OF OUR FIVE COUNTIES. Take the time to get to know and fall in love with these places, and you’ll discover more than any one travel guide—even this one!—can possibly capture.

woodstock , ulster county

Woodstock was a music and art mecca long before 1969, with major institutions like Byrdcliffe Arts Colony, the Art Students League of New York, and Maverick Concerts setting up shop here in the early 20th century. They found it beautiful and inspiring, as did the folk and rock musicians who started holding what they called Sound-Outs in the mid-’60s. When a young man named Michael Lang and his friends wanted to organize something bigger, authorities declined—leading to the big party being held 60 miles away in Bethel but keeping the Woodstock name and dipping its reputation in tie-dye that’s never quite worn off.

The town’s largely colonial architecture, surrounded by Catskills forests and laced with scenic creeks and streams, gives it the feel of an enchanted retreat, which it is. What it’s not is undiscovered; sunny fall weekends draw visitors to the downtown sidewalks and the village green, home to drum circles and demonstrations.

A perfect fall day in Woodstock might include grabbing lunch at Yum Yum before a hike up Overlook Mountain, where you can soak in one of the finest views anywhere on Earth and contemplate the ruins of a once-luxurious hotel. Back down in town you might spend some time people-watching or grabbing dinner; do try Cucina. Then drive over to the nearby Ashokan Reservoir—there’s a lovely rail trail—and you can rent bicycles or opt to visit the nearby Tibetan monastery and visit the monks. Evenings are a great time to see what’s hanging at the local galleries or who’s playing at one of the town’s music venues like the famous Colony. If you'd like to stay overnight, head no further than the boutique Hotel Dylan.

Woodstock Town Square.
Ashokan Reservoir. Photo by Gummy Bone.
Maverick Concerts.
Overlook Mountain. Photo by Vanessa Villegas.
Overlook Mountain. Photo by Jo King.

catskill , greene county

Catskill evolved from a teeny village of 10 households at the end of the American Revolution to a bustling port sending hides, honey, and ice downriver. Here, where the Catskill Creek meets the Hudson River, you’ll find a lot of oldschool brick preserved in the downtown historic district and glorious views of the river swathed in autumn’s colors from the waterfront parks.

At about 125 miles off Broadway, Catskill is just outside of convenient commuting distance, which keeps it peaceful. It’s a funky, artsy, and resilient little place with creative retail and eateries proudly inhabiting the Victorian facades of Main Street. The largest tidal swamp along the Hudson, RamsHorn-Livingston Audubon Center and Sanctuary, is here; there are trails to walk or paddle, and Audubon naturalists lead guided tours.

Your perfect fall day here might involve a trip to Olana State Historic Site, where Frederic Church lived and painted, followed by a lunchtime picnic on the riverbank. In the afternoon, explore the shops and galleries and/or head to nearby Palenville to take in the glories of Kaaterskill Falls—please obey all cautionary signs. The self-guided Kaaterskill Clove Experience tour offers a unique look at the birth of American art. You can also scoot across the bridge to check out bustling Hudson.

You’ll find elegant choices for dinner and two state-of-the-art performing arts venues. There’s also a lively small-batch brewery and cidery scene with cozy taprooms pouring highly original creations.

RamsHorn Audubon Center.
Photo by John Halpern.
Kaaterskill Falls.
Main Street Catskill.
Photo by Matt Petricone.
Olana State Historic Site.

livingston manor , sullivan county

Livingston Manor borrowed its name from the 160,000 acres granted to Robert Livingston the Elder by King George I. In 1880, the hamlet became the highlight and destination of the finest tourist trains on the New York, Ontario and Western Railway. In 1930, a Livingston descendant laid claim to the land and won in court, forcing some residents to buy their own houses from him.

This is the birthplace of the gentle American art of dry fly fishing and the home of the Willowemoc Creek, and you’ll find a museum devoted to the pastime. You’re immersed in the Sullivan Catskills here; Livingston Manor’s nickname of “small town with a big backyard” fits it to perfection.

Get out early, grab some exceptional coffee and an egg sandwich, and watch the morning mist over the Willowemoc. Even if you never get a hook wet, you’ll feel the pull of spending hours on these shores, and the fly fishing museum is the perfect place to understand the people who do that. Then there are the Frick Pond Loop and Willowemoc Wild Forest trails to explore, as well as an array of creative boutiques and gift shops, many of them reflecting a blend of country charm and subtle sophistication. Livingston Manor has its own well-practiced vibe of classic Catskills, wrapping you in the softest flannel and serving you hyperlocal artful food and drink, often accompanied by the soft crackling of a woodstove or fireplace this time of year.

Frick Pond Loop. Photo by
Jessie Li.
Willowemoc Covered Bridge.
Willowemoc Creek.
Willowemoc Wild Forest.
Photo by Alexa Suess.

roxbury , delaware county

Roxbury is the birthplace of two wildly different 19th-century notables who began as farm boys and classmates: railroad baron Jay Gould (b. 1836) and naturalist John Burroughs (b. 1837). Gould grew up on a hardscrabble dairy farm, loathed the work, and left as soon as he could to seek his fortune; Burroughs credited those early years with inspiring his passion for nature and philosophy. Both left their marks on Roxbury: Gould in the form of a handsome Reform church with Tiffany stained glass windows, Burroughs with Woodchuck Lodge , his unpretentious and lovely summer residence, now a national historic site.

Today’s Roxbury is layered with elegant creativity. The local motel’s rooms and cottages are fantasy themed, leading Travel and Leisure to call it “the most magical hotel stay in the world.”

The Roxbury Arts Center infuses the area with glowing gems of visual and performance art. Kirkside Park is an enchanting spot for a riverside picnic. Book a Table to Farm Tour to get an inside look at Catskills agriculture, or take a hike on Plattekill Mountain (they’ve got glamping too!), or head up to the hamlet of Grand Gorge for true foliage immersion. Whatever you find to do here, don’t forget to pause and look up at the spectacular nighttime sky.

Woodchuck Lodge.
Jay Gould Memorial Church.
Kirkside Park.
The Roxbury Arts Center.
Plattekill Mountain.

rhinebeck , dutchess county

Rhinebeck was once the violet capital of the world, shipping many thousands of the fragrant purple blooms from both large commercial and small cottage-farm greenhouses. It’s been a prosperous place since its beginnings. People who could afford to live anywhere have often chosen Rhinebeck, and spending some time in this crisp, classic village will give you a feel for their reasons—it drips with prettiness and charm.

It’s also a country village with a big heart, a place where the famous and the farmy still rub elbows to mutual delight.

Wander the tree-lined streets, check out the country-chic apparel and the independent jewelers, shop at Hammertown or Montgomery Row , and explore some exquisite jewelry stores. The shopping here is really top notch. Then dine on fabulous farm-to-table food prepared by your choice of expert chefs— Terrapin and Gigi Trattoria are both local favorites

Surrounded by entertainment venues—such as the Dutchess County Fairgrounds , the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome , and the Fisher Center at Bard College —there’s always a lot going on. You’re also close to Hyde Park , with its historic trea-

Village of Rhinebeck. Montgomery Row.
Terrapin Restaurant.

sures and fabulous eats offered by the five Culinary Institute of America restaurants.

Climb Burger Hill at Drayton Grant Park for a stunning panorama of autumn Catskills colors. Wander the tree-lined streets, check out the country-chic apparel and the independent jewelers, browse the exceptional bookstore. Tour the award-winning Omega Center for Sustainable Living , part of the world’s premiere holistic education center.

As autumn settles in, Rhinebeck becomes especially inviting. The air turns brisk, the hillsides around town ignite with color, and the village takes on a quieter rhythm. Locals linger longer at cafés, and weekend visitors stroll the sidewalks with scarves and cider in hand. The farmers market brims with late harvest produce and handmade goods, while the scent of woodsmoke drifts through the side streets. It’s the kind of village that makes you want to linger just a little longer.

Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome.
Dutchess County Fairgrounds.
Fisher Center at Bard College.
Omega Center for Sustainable Living.
Burger Hill. Photo by Mike Rokicki.
Culinary Institute of America.

Your go-to indie book store in the Catskill Mountains! Our warm, welcoming atmosphere, knowledgeable staff, personalized service & large, carefully curated selection of books, games, and gifts ensure you will find something for everyone and for every occasion. We’renotjustaplace,We’readestination. Open Daily at 9 Conveniently located next to the Windham Pharmacy. Windham, NY (518) 750-8599 Visit our website: www.briarsandbramblesbooks.com Instagram: @briarsandbramblesbooks

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hudson valley layers : fall fashion finds from local shops

With autumn upon us, layers are absolutely the way to go to fully relish the day, from crisp morning to sun-kissed afternoon to bewitchingly lovely stargazing evening by the fire. And you’re surrounded by vibrant color, so why not take it as an inspiration and sport some fresh, warm earth tones or something that glows like a jewel?

Hikes, leaf-peeping rambles, apple-picking excursions—they’re all more fun when you’re properly outfitted, with happy, comfy feet and the option of warming up or

cooling off as needed close at hand. Fortunately, our local shopkeepers understand. This time of year, you’ll find just what you need: cozy flannels and fleeces, rugged but good-looking footgear, hand-knit scarves, sweaters that snuggle you.

So stop in at some of our favorites and glow up your wardrobe a little. The selection and the welcome at these places are on point, and even the simplest shopping trip can be a chance to make fun memories—ones that come with souvenirs you’ll treasure.

outdoor outfitters

At Camp Catskill in Tannersville, sustainability meets adventure in an enchanted village, a mix that’s about as Catskills as you can get. This ethical outdoor shop, run by a former Eagle Scout and lifelong outdoorsman whose passion is making sure you’re well-prepared, outfits hikers and campers with cozy recycled-material fleeces, warm hats, gloves, and trail gear from eco-conscious brands like Outdoor Research and Cotopaxi. It’s a haven for autumn explorers who want to stay warm outdoors while treading lightly on the earth. campcatskill.co, 518-303-6050

Kenco Outfitters in Kingston, family-owned since 1982, has grown from a source for quality work-wear into its current status as a work and play outfitter where you’ll find everything you’ll need for a great time in the great outdoors. With a huge selection of gear and apparel, from top-shelf rain jackets and fleece vests to rugged work boots and insulated flannels, Kenco will get you ready for any adventure or just make you wildly comfy while puttering around in the yard. 845-340-0552, kencooutfitters.com

Pitch Pine Outfitters in Gardiner sits at the foot of the Shawangunk Ridge. Husband-and-wife team Bronwen and Brett Concors, both of whom grew up rambling these hills, have curated all the essentials (and then some) to keep you comfortable and trail ready in any autumn weather. The cozy shop is packed with state-of-the-art gear and apparel from brands like Patagonia, Osprey, Smartwool, KÜHL and Danner, and the staff will happily share the local wisdom to go with your finds. 845-633-8483, pitchpineoutfitters.com

Camp Catskill
Kenco Outfitters
Pitch Pine Outfitters

H. Houst and Son in Woodstock will keep you safe and warm in fine style; their apparel and footwear sections feature sturdy overalls, footgear, and high-visibility jackets that will keep you safe and warm in the woods all through hunting season and beyond. Check out the rainsuits and polka-dot waterproof boots, not to mention the chicken-themed garden shoes. housthardware.com, 845-679-2115

Potter Brothers Ski and Snowboard Shop, with locations in Kingston and Fishkill, offers a fabulous selection of outerwear for men, women and kids—feather-light jackets, sweatshirts, sweaters, and pants that will move with you and keep the chilly breezes out, whether you’re planning on hitting the slopes or just taking in an epic mountain sunset. You’ll find the finest cold-weather gear here, from names like Helly Hansen to North Face. potterbrothers.com, 845-338-5119

Williams Lumber offers one of the Hudson Valley’s largest selections of legendary Carhartt all-weather gear at its Rhinebeck, High Falls, Pleasant Valley, Hudson, and Tannersville shops, along with cozy hats and socks from MukLuk and Wigwam and Irish Setter boots from Red Wing at the Rhinebeck store. williamslumber.com, Rhinebeck: 845-876-7011, High Falls: 845687-7676, Hudson: 518-851-3641, Pleasant Valley: 845-605-3520, Tannersville: 518-589-5200

fabulous footwear

Montano’s Shoe Store in Saugerties has been the Hudson Valley’s boot-and-shoe authority for generations. This venerable shop carries over 100 brands and all sorts of style options—trail-ready hikers, chic leather boots, cozy slippers—and they take the time and have the expertise to fit you properly with a pair that will keep your tender tootsies feeling great all day long. Achy feet? No worries—Edward Montano Jr. is a board-certified pedorthist who knows how to make the modifications and custom orthotics that will get you feeling trail ready and rarin’ to go. montanosshoestore.com, 845-246-4381

H. Houst and Son
Potter Brothers
Williams Lumber Montano's Shoe Store

world - class style

Handmade & More, tucked into the heart of New Paltz, has celebrated American craftsmanship for over 40 years. The boutique is a treasure trove of artisanal fall fashion—think soft knit sweaters, locally sewn dresses, artistic scarves, and unique jewelry. Come see Handmade for rich colors, cozy textures, and one-of-a-kind pieces for autumn you’ll fall in love with. handmadeandmore.com

845-255-6277

Himalayan Arts, located in the Water Street Market in New Paltz, brings a touch of the Himalayan peaks to our Hudson Valley fall. Their racks feature traditional wearables built for the weather: warm yak wool sweaters, ponchos, fleece-lined jackets, knitted hats, and mittens perfect for crisp mountain air. himalayanartsnp.com, 845-256-1940

Tibetan Arts & Crafts in Woodstock is filled with colorful clothing from across East Asia. You’ll find cotton tunics, embroidered jackets, cashmere shawls, and elegant silk tops that marry bohemian flair with Himalayan tradition, along with handcrafted Tibetan jewelry, rugs made of 100% vegetable-dyed Tibetan wool, and unique Buddhist statuary. facebook.com/TibetanArtsatWoodstock, 845-679-2097

The Nest Egg in Phoenicia is the place to stop if heading to the Western Cats for fall foliage. It's an old-fashioned country store with a laid-back mountain welcome, packed with fun and hard-to-find goods, including lots of practical fall apparel: plaid flannels, wool socks, Catskills-themed sweatshirts, Minnetonka moccasins, and hand-knit beanies. nesteggshop.com, 845-688-5851

Handmade & More Himalayan Arts
Tibetan Arts & Crafts The Nest Egg

boutique & lifestyle apparel

Foxglove General in Saugerties has fashion-forward seasonal gear, from light jackets and sweaters that will save you from autumn’s breezes to funky, fun socks. Much of it is ideal travel wear—well-constructed pants, shirts, and dresses in sturdy fabrics that pack well and look gorgeous. foxglovegeneral.com, 518-859-1723

Hamilton & Adams in Kingston’s Stockade district offers a stylish take on Hudson Valley fall fashion, which is all about the cozy, casual sophistication that wears well from the trail to the dinner destination. Their fall collection includes ultra-soft flannels, heritage-quality sweaters, waxed canvas jackets, and their iconic Upstate & Chill® hoodies and beanies. hamiltonandadams.com, 845-383-1039

At Hammertown Barn in Rhinebeck, Pine Plains, and Great Barrington, they’ve got a gorgeous array of cuddly scarves and sweaters, just the thing for a crisp fall day. You’ll also find all kinds of soft, cozy throws—just the thing to have handy to take the chill off—along with beautiful robes and pajama sets ideal for lounging around in. shop.hammertown.com, 845-640-4453

At Herzog’s in Kingston, nestled within the gift department, you’ll find a small but wonderful array of one-size-fits-all comfy chic. Herzog’s carries Look by M, timeless styles with contemporary flair: sweaters, cardigans, vests, shawl vests, ponchos, and accessories such as scarves, hats, and gloves that are the very definition of cozy clothes. herzogs.com, 845-338-6300

Foxglove General
Hamilton & Adams
Hammertown Barn Herzog's

Tannersville Works

The Shops at Emerson

At Maison Après L’amour in Kingston, you’ll find the antidote to fast fashion—beautifully crafted, sustainable clothing, much of it from Hudson Valley makers. Love one of their core offerings? They’ll make it up for you in just the right size and color. The space is also a studio, gallery, and community space with a coffee shop, so you can bask in warm Hudson Valley vibrations while learning more about their closet styling and free vintage concierge services. apreslamour.com, 845- 853-8600

Under the colorful awnings of Montgomery Row in Rhinebeck you’ll find a cluster of fashion-forward boutiques, something for every member of the fam. At Changes, find smart-casual menswear. J. McLaughlin brings preppy–chic looks with quilted vests and riding boots. StarryBird Kids offers fall apparel for the littlest adventurers, and Board Room Skate Shop has cutting-edge autumn-ready streetwear. montgomeryrow.com, 845-876-0543

At Tannersville Works in Tannersville, you’ll find fun Catskills-themed sweatshirts, long-sleeve T-shirts, and a nifty collection of fisherman’s beanies and watch caps in eco-cotton and eco-wool, just the thing to keep the wind off your head. This is also the place to find the Cabin Sock, the perfect antidote to chilly feet, and fingerless gloves. tannersvilleworks.com, 518-718-4050

The Shops at Emerson are tucked into a beautifully restored 19th-century dairy barn in Mt. Tremper, blending contemporary fashion with Catskills charm. You’ll find modern clothing, cashmere wraps, flannels, and fall outerwear alongside artisan jewelry and cozy accessories, and you can check out the world’s largest kaleidoscope while you’re there. emersonresort.com/ the-shops, 845-688-5800

Maison Après L'amour J. McLaughlin at Montgomery Row

vintage & upcycled finds

Newberry Artisan Market, housed in the historic J.J. Newberry Co. building in Saugerties, is a 10,000-squarefoot market featuring over 35 local vendors, many of them offering fall fashion with an artisanal twist—handcrafted wool hats, reworked vintage denim jackets, and designer clothing sewn from reclaimed fabrics. newberryartisanmarket.com, 845-247-3002

Red Owl Collective is a sprawling emporium in Kingston’s midtown arts district that hosts over 85 vendors selling vintage and pre-loved fashion: upcycled flannels, jean jackets, cozy sweaters from decades past, and more. There’s a rich, delightful mix of retro mod, boho-chic, and timeless fall layers. redowlcollective.com, 845-481-4675

For more treasure hunting, stop into Kingston Consignments in Uptown Kingston, a multi-floor marketplace offering a rotating selection of vintage finds from numerous vendors. Nearby in Port Ewen, Ball & Claw features a carefully curated, ever-changing collection of vintage pieces in a beautifully restored 1920s building. And in Stone Ridge, MapleLawn presents a rotating choice of vintage collections. You just might discover unique additions to your fall wardrobe.

Ball & Claw
Newberry Artisan Market
Kingston Consignments
Red Owl Collective

Stone Window Gallery

Brinton P. Baker

17 Main Street / PO Box 239, Accord, NY 12404 • 845-626-4932

facebook/stonewindowgallery • ig @stonewindowgallery

Inspiring Ideas For Life At Home

845-389-3880 • FLOATINGLOTUSMICROSPA.SPACE 10 CHURCH ST. SUITE A, NEW PALTZ • SCAN QR TO BOOK

• shop our gift boutique

• therapeutic massage & reiki

• organic skincare

• gift certificates

73 crown st. kingston, new york birchkingston.com 845-331-7139

Meet the Owner

floating lotus lash bar

Looking great feels fantastic, but who wants to spend a lot of time fussing around getting ready to leave the house? Life’s out there waiting. Expertly applied permanent makeup lets you ditch a lot of that tiresome routine. Looking your best can last for months, not just a few hours. It starts with a visit to Floating Lotus Lash Bar in New Paltz.

Nicole Heaton is passionate about esthetics. Helping people achieve that feeling of

looking great is her life’s mission, and at Floating Lotus, every client gets the benefit of her devotion to health and beauty. “I love this place so much! I haven’t had a facial in forever and I forget how much I love them—especially with Amy,” writes a happy regular on Google. “The whole space just calms you the second you walk in. Love, love, love it! And the owner Nicole is also super talented and has given me my amazing brows and lip tint, which has lasted years.”

photos by rachel collet for visitvortex
“We are a one-stop shop for specialized treatments here; we’re specialists in everything that we offer,” Heaton says. "There’s not much of that available outside of major cities”

After studying art at New Paltz High School, Heaton served in the Navy and—once her four-year stint was up—enrolled in the Hudson Valley School of Advanced Aesthetic Skin Care, earning her esthetician’s license in 2004.

Working with a busy plastic surgery office and running a 2-year chemical peel case study, she gained a deep and thorough understanding of the medical side of skin health.

After a corporate gig as a traveling educator for a skin care line ended when the company downsized, she tried a few other things that didn’t satisfy before starting Floating Lotus as a side hustle.

While working with her sister out of one room in Highland, she realized that she could bring beauty to people her own way.

“I love the versatility of this field,” she says. “The possibilities of what you can do under this one license are endless. So I said, ‘You know, I’m going to take a shot.’ I went full time in 2018. I named it

the Floating Lotus because a lotus grows in mud but is still beautiful. I felt like I’d fallen on my face twice in my life, career wise, and I wanted to grow something beautiful from it all.”

The range of services at Floating Lotus encompasses all aspects

of the art and science of advanced beauty and skin care. “As a licensed esthetician, I do facials.

I’m a lash artist, so I’ve earned many certificates for that. I teach lash lifting and brow lamination. I'm a permanent makeup artist, so I tattoo makeup, and I actually do fine-line tattoos now. So I have a lot of things I can do under this one license, and I’ve never stopped learning. And because I’m a natural artist, it allows me to show that on different levels.”

In 2020 she moved her business

to New Paltz, but soon outgrew her first location. Studying the way lash bars were being presented in Europe, she decided to create a one-stop shop for gender-neutral skincare and beauty services. She found the perfect location on Church Street, where she offers advanced clinical services in a relaxing spa setting.

“There are a lot of different skin conditions that we treat here,” she says. “I found a skincare line that I really love. It’s cruelty and paraben free, and it’s medical with a

“I’ve had a lot of people that have lost their hair, whether it be from chemo, alopecia, or different skin conditions, thyroid issues—being able to give them back an eyebrow, being able to help a teenager with severe acne, those positive changes we can make that lift someone’s self-esteem are enormously satisfying.”
– Owner Nicole Heaton

holistic twist to it, which is basically what my shop is. So we’re able to give these really great services that feel like you’re in a spa, having a spa treatment (rather than a clinical setting), but really get to the bottom of skin conditions.”

Floating Lotus offers a comprehensive menu of Hydrafacials, featuring a patented three-step process that deep cleans, exfoliates, and hydrates, with medical-grade options like lymphatic drainage and LED light therapy. “We are a one-stop shop for specialized treatments here; we’re specialists in everything that we offer,” Heaton says. "There’s not much of that available outside of major cities. As far as lash bars, there are a couple, but as far as specializing in being able to offer everything for an eyebrow, you know, whether it be waxing or microblading or all the way up to giving somebody an eyebrow

back. I’ve had a lot of people that have lost their hair, whether it be from chemo, alopecia, or different skin conditions, thyroid issues—being able to give them back an eyebrow, being able to help a teenager with severe acne, those positive changes we can make that lift someone’s self-esteem are enormously satisfying.”

Heaton started with two employees and now has five young artists working with her. A recent renovation added a second treatment room to the space. “It’s just a really calm, Zen environment to work in, where my staff can really show their true artistry,” Heaton says. “We offer something for everyone, and there are surprisingly affordable options. There are so many choices just for eyelash extensions, for example—and some people find it really boosts their self-esteem. We have high school students, college students, busi -

– Owner Nicole Heaton
“It’s about setting up a plan for a client and building trust. I have clients that have followed me all the way from my first job, and now I can show new clients what can be done over time, with patience. It’s been truly amazing to watch these things happen.”

ness professionals, a couple of celebrities. No matter who walks in the store, we do our best to make sure they feel at ease and happy when they leave. We offer refreshments, and we have a lovely front porch that’s great for relaxing on a nice day.”

The benefit of a microspa, she says, is flexibility. “A lot of bigger spas have opened, but you have to check in for an entire day. Here, you can just come and get the treatments you want and get on with your day, looking amazing and feeling refreshed.”

For Heaton, running the spa has become a life path she never anticipated but deeply loves. “One reason I joined the military was that I really had no idea what I wanted to do—I loved art, but I didn’t think art was necessarily going to pay the rent, you know? I never really anticipated running my own business and having employees. But when I got out of the military, thinking I might become a makeup artist, I discovered I had a huge hunger to learn and it turned out I really loved the science of this field.

Working in a doctor’s office was

a huge steppingstone. And as I tell my employees, the more skin you touch and the more time you spend, the better you get. I still sneak in at least one course a year, because you can never know it all; there’s always something new to learn.”

That new knowledge gets applied over a solid base of old-school esthetician’s knowledge. “I’m not into gimmicks. I’m not into really expensive services and machines. I’m only into what works, and it starts with ingredients. So it’s about setting up a plan for a client and building trust. I have clients that have followed me all the

way from my first job, and now I can show new clients what can be done over time, with patience. It’s been truly amazing to watch these things happen. I love helping teenagers free themselves from acne. I love taking people’s natural beauty, that they may not even realize they have, and enhancing it to their liking. It doesn’t have to be over-the-top extreme and it doesn’t have to break the bank. I keep the pricing competitive, so anyone can walk in here; get an honest assessment of what they want and how to get there; get thorough, compassionate treatment; and walk out relaxed and ready to take on the world.”

floating lotus lash bar

10 Church St, New Paltz

845-389-3880

floatinglotusmicrospa.space

OPEN MONDAY-THURSDAY 11AM-8PM, FRIDAY + SATURDAY 10AM-8PM, SUNDAY 11AM-7PM

• Licensed NY Cannabis Dispensary • High Quality Flower • Pre-rolls | Vapes | Edibles + More

Restorative Power of Autumn

embracing the hudson valley ' s seasonal rhythm

As the heat of summer gives way to golden afternoons and the soft crunch of leaves underfoot, the Hudson Valley and Catskills invite us into a slower, deeper way of living. Autumn calls us inward—not to retreat, but to restore. It’s a time to embrace change, to reflect, and to tend to the body and spirit with the same reverence we give to the changing trees.

Photo by Rachel Peri.

There’s medicine in the air here—crisp and clean, tinged with woodsmoke and the earthy scent of moss and fallen leaves. Even a short walk among the golden maples or a quiet sit by the river can bring calm. Studies have shown what we already feel: time in nature reduces stress, balances mood, and brings us into the present. Autumn amplifies this. The colors ignite joy. The light softens. The landscape speaks in whispers that still the mind.

This season is also surprisingly energizing. The cooler temperatures invigorate us. A brisk hike or even a walk through town can boost circulation and immune function. The body wakes up in the chill and settles into a rhythm aligned with the land—productive, but not rushed.

the healing nature of the season movement as grounding

Autumn offers the perfect backdrop for movement—not the performative kind, but the kind that heals. Hiking, walking, biking: the body wants to move through beauty. Whether you’re summiting a Catskills peak or strolling a leaf-littered path in a village park, this is movement with meaning.

And then there is the juxtaposition of stillness and motion. Outdoor yoga, especially during the early days of fall, connects breath with the shifting world around you. Indoors, the warmth of a studio can mirror the comfort of a favorite sweater—a space to stretch, to release, and to return to yourself.

Photo by Venrick Azcueta.

holistic spaces for healing

Across the region, there are places that invite deeper rest and realignment. Floatation therapy offers profound quiet—a place where gravity disappears and the nervous system is soothed. Spas nestled into mountain towns and river hamlets offer massage, Reiki, and treatments drawn from the land: herbal compresses, salt scrubs, and warm oil soaks. Acupuncture and energy healing practices help the body adjust to seasonal shifts, supporting immunity and emotional well-being.

These are not indulgences. They’re tools for resilience. They help us regulate. They offer space to feel. And in the Hudson Valley, they’re grounded in the same earthiness that defines the region’s spirit.

nourishing from the inside out

The farms and markets shift with the season too, offering pumpkins, squashes, apples, root vegetables, and dark leafy greens. These foods aren’t just traditional; they’re what our bodies need now—grounding, warming, and nutrient rich. Cider warms from the inside. Hearty soups fill and soothe. Even something as simple as roasted carrots with herbs can be a tonic in the cooling air.

And as the sun sets earlier, our bodies crave more rest. Fall is an ideal time to honor sleep—to restore nighttime routines, step away from screens, and create rituals that tell the body, “You are safe to rest now”: A cup of tea. A good book. A blanket tucked under your chin.

Photo by Simon Humler.
Photo by Roman Odintsov.

Fall is often thought of as a season of letting go. But it’s also a season of return—to yourself, to intention, to balance.

the season of return

Fall is often thought of as a season of letting go. But it’s also a season of return—to yourself, to intention, to balance. In the Hudson Valley and Catskills, where the rhythms of nature are so vivid and visceral, that return feels sacred.

This season, let wellness mean more than green juices and gym routines. Let it mean long walks through flame-colored woods, quiet mornings with hot tea, deep breaths by the river, and the courage to slow down and feel good. Let autumn be your invitation to align with the beauty that surrounds you— and the strength that already lives within.

Photo by Jaspinder Singh.

Autumn Abundance

hudson valley veggies for the fall & winter

Springtime and summertime here in the fertile Hudson Valley have given us a diverse bounty of delicious vegetables, thanks to so many ambitious, eager, and motivated farmers pursuing sustainability and providing us with perhaps the most nutritious food on the globe. Many such veggies are not just delicious, but delicate—like arugula, snow peas, heirloom lettuces, spinach, Swiss chard, parsley, specialty summer squash, and all of those juicy tomatoes—calling to be eaten right away, at the peak of their freshness. As cool air begins to shroud the farms, we are

nonetheless still provided with an abundance of autumn and winter produce. Delicate leaves and fruits are now replaced with sturdy varieties that will keep well for months, perfect for hearty autumn and winter recipes.

Here, I highlight 11 veggies that are ideal for storing (and savoring) through the fall and winter: cabbage, kohlrabi, rutabagas, turnips, garlic, onions, shallots, carrots, parsnips, beets, and winter squash. There are many others, but these are some of my favorites from across five of our eight main fam-

ilies of vegetables, which I explain in detail in my recently released book, Veggie Smarts: A Doctor and Farmer Grows and Savors Eight Families of Vegetables. So many of these sturdy, savory, healthy veggies are available

during the remaining weeks of farmers markets, at local farm stands before they close for the cold season, and through community supported agriculture (CSA) farm shares, especially those offering winter shares.

the brassicas

Among the Brassicas, a number of green ones, as well as several root vegetables, store well. The various types of cabbage and kohlrabi can be harvested just before or after the first frost, after the cool air has sweetened and enhanced their flavors. Stored in a cool, dark, humid place (like a root cellar, or if you don’t have one of those, as most of us don’t, the refrigerator), they will last for several months. Regularly check them for any signs of decay and remove spoiled items to prevent them from affecting the rest of the produce in the fridge. Among the Brassica root vegetables, rutabagas and turnips keep well—for weeks or up to a few months—in a cool, moist environment, again, either a root cellar or the refrigerator.

the alliums

Among the Alliums, garlic, onions, and shallots, once cured, have a very long shelf-life compared to other Alliums, like scallions (which are basically just young onions), chives, and leeks. Garlic, onions, and shallots do best in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. When properly cured and stored,

Photo by David Holifield.
Photo by Nick Fewings.

they last all the way through the fall, winter, and spring until the fresh summer onions are again ready for pulling on the farm. What is curing? As I explain in Veggie Smarts, the goal is to prepare the harvest in a way that will optimize its storability and reduce rot and spoilage while retaining juiciness inside. The onions, for example, are harvested in late summer when the green tops turn yellow and flop over, indicating that photosynthesis and growth are complete. I lay them

out in a single layer on a netted structure I designed to fit in the tractor shed. For the next 3 weeks, the tractor might well get rained on, but the curing onions definitely will not. The key is good ventilation and no direct sunlight. All remaining green tops turn brown, and the skins become dry and papery. Cured! A scissor snip to trim the roots and another to cut back the tops to about an inch, and the garlic, onions, and shallots are ready to be stored.

the umbellifers and the chenopods

Among the Umbellifers, both carrots and parsnips keep well for long periods; like the other root vegetables, they do best in a cool, moist environ-

ment (again, the root cellar or the refrigerator), and among the Chenopods, beets are equally well suited to be stored for several months.

the cucurbits

But perhaps most important are the winter squash from among the Cucurbits. I consider delectable delicata squash to be an autumn squash rather than a winter squash; it only keeps for a few weeks rather than

Photo by Emma Miller.
Photo by David Trinks.
Photo by Emma Jane Hobden.

many months. So enjoy delicata in September and October. But then ensure a supply of delicious acorn, baby blue Hubbard, buttercup, butternut, kabocha, red kuri, and spaghetti squash, as well as pie pumpkins and others—these are gold-standard winter squash that

will keep well for months. Like garlic, onions, and shallots, they need a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. You’ll be making roasted acorn squash with apples and maple syrup, butternut squash soup, kabocha pie, and so many other winter delights across all of our cold months.

storage

Of course, there are other ways to enjoy spring- and summer-grown produce in the fall and winter. My preferred method is freezing excess veggies at the peak of their ripeness. Compared to canning, which is a long-honored technique among many of our grannies, I find frozen vegetables to taste even fresher. And it’s much easier than canning. But there remains a place for canning jars. Think strawberry jam, prepared in mid-June, as a year-long supply of deliciousness until the

strawberries are again ripe next year. I also can pomodoro sauce and salsa, and I bottle hot sauce and crème de framboise (black raspberry liqueur; think Chambord). And finally, I dry herbs for a winter-long supply of flavors that pair perfectly with a big pot of braised cabbage or a broad pan of roasted winter squash— like dried fennel seeds and dried sage, both very easy to prepare and store, which are a delightful reminder of summertime for the wintertime countertop.

Photo
Photo by Pixabay.

recipe : roasted kohlrabi

I leave you with a simple recipe from VeggieSmarts, from among others that include shallot salad dressing, roasted beets, honey roasted carrots, and roasted winter squash. This edition? Kohlrabi!

Serves 4 Prep: 10 min Cook: 20-30 min

ingredients

• 4 kohlrabi

• 1-2 tablespoons olive oil

• salt and pepper

• red pepper flakes

• 1/2 cup grated hard cheese (like Pecorino, Parmigiano-Reggiano, or Grana Padano)

• chopped parsley or chives

directions

1. Peel each kohlrabi, and slice into wedges, like steak fries.

2. Toss the wedges with 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil and lay them out, barely touching, on a flat roasting pan.

3. Sprinkle the wedges with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes.

4. Add/sprinkle grated cheese.

5. Roast at 425 to 450 degrees for 20-30 min

6. Chop and sprinkle parsley or chives. Serve and enjoy! Buon appetito!

Dr. Compton is a Columbia University professor board certified in psychiatry, preventive medicine, and lifestyle medicine (www.drcompton.health). He is author of Veggie Smarts: A Doctor and Farmer Grows and Savors Eight Families of Vegetables, published by Regalo Press, which incorporates philanthropy into book publishing. As part of Regalo’s mission, a donation is being made to the Hudson Valley CSA Coalition, facilitated by the Glynwood Center for Regional Food and Farming, as chosen by the author.

Photo by Silvia ND.
Photo by Iuliia Antonova.

healthy school lunches

with a hudson valley twist

As autumn returns to the Hudson Valley and Catskills and school routines fall into place, families are once again filling lunchboxes with care. Instead of relying on processed snacks and pre-packaged meals, this season offers a chance to embrace healthy school lunches

made with fresh, local ingredients. With crisp Hudson Valley apples, garden-grown vegetables, and farmstand favorites in abundance, a farm-to-lunchbox approach offers not just better nutrition, but a deeper connection to where we live and what we grow.

Farm to Lunchbox
Photo by Antoni Shkraba Studio.

seasonal bites with big benefits

When you fill a lunchbox with what’s in season, you’re not only giving your kids food that tastes better—you’re supporting their health in a way that’s grounded in nature’s cycles. Autumn’s harvest in the Hudson Valley brings apples, pears, sweet peppers, carrots, leafy greens, and squash. These foods are rich in vitamins, fiber, and flavor, and they’re often grown just down the road.

SIMPLE, FRESH LUNCHBOX IDEAS

• Apple Cheddar Wraps—Sliced local apples and sharp cheddar rolled into a whole wheat wrap with a swipe of sunflower seed butter for balance.

• Rainbow Veggie Pinwheels—Hummus or cream cheese spread on a tortilla and layered with grated carrot, beets, spinach, and red cabbage. Roll, slice, and pack.

• Mini Frittata Muffins—Whisk local eggs with diced seasonal veggies (like zucchini, broccoli, or kale), bake in muffin tins, and pop into lunchboxes for protein-rich bites.

• Pumpkin Muffins & Yogurt Dip—Use roasted local pumpkin or squash in muffins, and pair with vanilla yogurt mixed with cinnamon for a sweet, protein-rich snack.

• Harvest Pasta Salad—Bowtie pasta tossed with cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet corn, chickpeas, olive oil, and lemon—served chilled and packed with energy.

• Pear & Almond Butter Sandwiches—Thinly sliced pears with almond butter on multigrain bread; toast lightly if you want extra crunch.

• Roasted Veggie Quesadillas—Use leftover roasted squash, peppers, or mushrooms with cheese in a whole wheat tortilla, grilled and cut into wedges.

• Chickpea Salad Pita Pockets—Mashed chickpeas, diced cucumber, tomato, and carrots with a squeeze of lemon and olive oil, stuffed into a soft pita pocket.

• Apple Cinnamon Overnight Oats—Rolled oats soaked overnight with chopped apples, cinnamon, and a splash of maple syrup. Perfect for kids who like breakfast for lunch.

beyond the food : packing with the planet in mind

Lunch isn’t just about what’s inside—it’s also about how it’s packed. Small changes in lunch packing habits can reduce waste, support sustainability, and make your child’s lunch feel special.

ECO-FRIENDLY PACKING TIPS

• Use reusable containers or bento boxes instead of plastic bags.

• Replace paper napkins with washable cloth ones.

• Pack stainless steel or bamboo utensils instead of disposable cutlery.

• Wrap sandwiches and snacks in beeswax wraps or compostable parchment.

• Send water in a reusable bottle instead of juice boxes or single-use drinks.

• Include a small container for food scraps that can be composted at home. keep it simple & make it fun

Kids eat with their eyes first. A colorful lunch filled with shapes, textures, and variety is more likely to be eaten—and enjoyed. Use cookie cutters to shape sandwiches or fruit. Include a short handwritten note or a silly joke. Let kids help plan their lunches for the week using what’s available at the local farm market. When they feel involved, they’re more invested.

Photo by Goldyrocks.

back to school , back to balance

A thoughtfully packed lunch can become more than just a meal—it can be a moment of connection in the middle of a busy school day. It can remind kids that they’re cared for, that what they eat matters, and that real food comes from real places, not packages. The Hudson Valley and Catskills make it easy to eat well and live in harmony with the seasons.

Let this fall be the start of a new lunchbox ritual: fresh, fun, local, and light on waste.

where to shop farm fresh

• On-Farm Markets— Many regional farms offer seasonal produce, homemade snacks, and baked treats straight from the source.

• Local Farmers’ Markets— Stock up weekly on fresh fruits, veggies, eggs, and baked goods from growers in your area.

• Food Co-ops & Natural Grocers— Look for bulk snacks, zero-waste lunchbox staples, and locally sourced pantry goods.

• CSA Shares— Fall Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) pickups are a terrific way to keep your lunch menu creative while supporting nearby farms.

Photo by Gustavo Fring.

Local Eatery

terrapin : award - winning , globally inspired cuisine with a hudson valley spin

photos provided by terrapin

In 2003, Josh Kroner had been running a funky little restaurant in sleepy West Hurley for five good years, and felt ready for his next move. “Rhinebeck felt like it had a food scene that was just being born,” he says. “Gigi Trattoria had opened; people loved it, and it had the feel of a trend beginning. So I found a great spot. It had been a pizza place, a failing one,

but it was big for a pizza place.”

The building, a onetime Baptist church built in 1825, is spacious and beautifully crafted. And “big for a pizza place” turned out to be just the right size for Kroner’s vision, rooted in a love for working with the freshest local ingredients to craft a “loosely American” but globally inspired cuisine.

Kroner had been drawn to the kitchen after earning an architectural engineering degree at the University of Colorado; in New York City, he enrolled at the French Culinary Institute in SoHo (now the International Culinary Center), becoming an instructor there and working with big names like Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay. By the time he headed to the Catskills, he knew what he wanted: a restaurant serving the foods he loved to eat, intimately linked to the local farms that were accustomed to trucking their products down to the city for sale.

West Hurley loved his creations. Soon Rhinebeck would fall in love too, but it was a bold move. “Look-

ing back, I must have had some big balls back then,” he chuckles. “But at the time, it just felt like I was focused—I knew exactly what I wanted to do. I couldn’t have done it after the 2007 financial crisis, when money got a lot tighter—the numbers would never have worked. But in 2003, I was able to get a loan for $1.4 million. It was kind of the Wild West of financing back then, and I grabbed it and ran with it.”

It turned out to be a solid choice.

Restaurants have come and gone— Rhinebeck’s dining culture has, as Kroner foresaw, gotten even more exciting—and 22 years later, Terrapin remains on a great many people’s short list of favorites with

Kroner’s vision is rooted in a love for working with the freshest local ingredients to craft a “loosely American” but globally inspired cuisine.
May.
Photo by Jen
All

animal products are free range, grass or natural grain fed, and raised with no hormones or antibiotics, and there are plentiful vegetarian, vegan, and wheat-free choices.

an award-winning, dynamic cuisine that the New York Times has called “a fantasy come true.” The bistro side offers a build-your-ownsandwich board and what’s been named the Hudson Valley’s best burger, made with Hudson Valley Cattle Company beef; the dining room, open seven evenings a week, serves up tantalizing creations such as Drunken Shrimp in Sherry-Roasted Garlic Cream Sauce, Barbecued Duck Quesadilla with Mango-Avocado Salsa, and Maple Brined Double-Thick Pork Chop with Calvados-Apple Demi-Glace. All animal products are freerange, grass or natural grain fed, and raised with no hormones or antibiotics, and

there are plentiful vegetarian, vegan, and wheat-free choices, along with other items that can be made that way on request.

Kroner, a world traveler, is always on the lookout for dishes he can put his own Hudson Valley spin on and serve with joy. “I went to Japan for two weeks in March and brought back a bunch of things that I saw there that inspired me,” he says. “I got obsessed with Chicken Karaage on the trip; I was like, ‘I definitely need to make a version of this.’ So I do, and it actually turns out to be the thing that I have for lunch almost every day. I like it so much, but now I’m obsessed with my own version.”

Kroner, a world traveler, is always on the lookout for dishes he can put his own Hudson Valley spin on and serve with joy.

It’s all part of Kroner’s philosophy of making the foods he loves to eat and keeping it fresh in every sense of the word. “I think we strive to just give people what they want,” he says. “The way restaurants work, it’s all about making people want to come back and come back often. If you convert a once-a-year guest to a twice-a-year guest, that’s a big win.”

And who wouldn’t want to return to what a typical reviewer on Google describes as “an amazing restaurant with an unbeatable atmosphere”?

Kroner delights in the moments when he has time to chat up a customer at the bar, and still encounters some guests who’ve been relishing his creations since the

West Hurley days. His fondness for the laid-back yet sizzling Hudson Valley social scene has inspired a whole new chapter in the saga: Hudson Valley Unleashed, a podcast he’s hosting with Dave Leonard, a DJ with 3 decades on the Hudson Valley and Catskills music scene, and Megabrain Comics owner and founder Jean Michel. “I was listening to SmartLess, a very successful and fun podcast that’s just three celebrities who are good friends and started it for something to do during the pandemic, and I thought, ‘Wow, I could do that with a couple of friends,’” he says. “So we’re doing it in my house, in the kitchen, and we’re having great, casual conversations with people like Gary Chetkof, who owned

WDST and founded Mountain Jam, and Pete Caigan, who runs Utopia Studios Bearsville and has so many great music stories. We’ll never run out of great guests—we know so many amazing people. You get to meet a lot of high-powered celebrities up here, and it’s their happy place, where they can be themselves, which leads to a lot of fascinating stories.”

Hudson Valley Unleashed—focusing on “the people, passions, and peculiarities of one of America’s best-kept secrets. From local leg-

ends and cult creatives to celebrity guests with unexpected ties to the Valley, we’re here to ask the questions no one else dares. It's part local love letter, part kitchen-table therapy, and 100% unapologetically real”—is available across a wide range of platforms; give them a listen if you’d like to truly understand the culture here. And by all means, stop in for a bite at Terrapin for a dining experience that’s as Hudson Valley as it gets: globally inspired, locally crafted, and elevated in a way that invites everyone to share in the flavor.

terrapin restaurant 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck 845-876-3330

terrapinrestaurant.com

Photo by Jen May.
Photo by Jen May.

the running deer inn bar & road kill grill

Hungry for a great meal and a close encounter with the real Rondout Valley? Come check out the Running Deer Inn Bar & Road Kill Grill in Napanoch, a cherished (and haunted) establishment with a heart forged over decades of family and neighborhood love. Their menu offers dishes you won’t find anywhere else.

“The word-of-mouth is getting out about my menu, and it’s hard to keep this stuff on the shelves,” Christine Schiff, aka The Doe Running the Show, says. “I’ve got people coming from Poughkeep -

sie, Kingston, Newburgh, Jersey. We serve bison, ostrich, kangaroo, venison, yak, and wild boar burgers, so it takes a few visits to try it all.”

Alongside the game, the menu is full of comfort food—meatloaf, sausage and peppers, cabbage and kielbasa, mac ’n’ cheese—and treats like shrimp scampi and New York strip steak. But the best treat of all, one you’ll get even if you just stop in for a cold beer on a Saturday afternoon, might be the vibes. This is a cherished place, one with history.

photos by rachel collet for visitvortex

“I literally grew up in this bar,” Schiff says. “It was my grandfather's favorite place. I didn't learn till later that he was having an affair with the bartender. And as a little girl, my dad used to bring me in there all the time. I was my grandfather's little princess, and I was my dad's princess too, very much spoiled by them. They were very important in my life.”

It was a childhood full of laughter, pool games, and regulars who felt like family. After her grandfather died doing what he loved, falling from his barstool with a cold beer in hand, Schiff would come back for a beer with her dad—even after moving 45 minutes away to Sullivan County, where she married, raised her family,

and worked in politics as an aide to former congressman Chris Gibson.

“Sullivan County’s another world, and I had a whole other life out there,” she says. “My husband is the sheriff there. But twelve years ago I got out of politics and into bartending, and it was incredibly freeing.”

A gig at Crystal Springs, a New Jersey golf club, honed her skills. “It was so much fun,” she says. “I was working weddings on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday every week, and it was a real crash course. I started out knowing nothing but how to pour a beer or a shot, but not how to make a drink. But when you have a thousand people charging at the bar to get their free

“The word-of-mouth is getting out about my menu, and it’s hard to keep this stuff on the shelves,” Christine Schiff, aka The Doe Running the Show,” says.
“Twelve years ago I got out of politics and into bartending, and it was incredibly freeing.”
– Christine Schiff

drink, you learn fast, and you learn to work fast too. My coworkers taught me everything. Then we moved to Myrtle Beach, which was fun too—really busy, and I had the beach right outside my window every day.”

When her dad got sick, she came home to Napanoch to care for him. “I came up with the idea of telling him I wanted to buy this place, and he was so ill and tired, but that thought just lit him up,” she says. “He was so excited. He was going to be part of it with me. I lost him before the sale closed in 2023. But he was in on the beginning of the process, and everything that you see in the bar is in dedication to my grandfather and my dad.”

That’s true of the exotic menu; the

family hunted, and Schiff grew up eating venison, bear, snake, squirrel, and rabbit. It’s true of the decor, from the mounts—two bucks and a bear, in which her father took great pride—to her grandfather’s copper moonshine still and the vintage hand tools she found in the backyard of the family home and now displays on the walls.

“You name it, it’s there,” she says. “I have swords on the wall; I have a fivefoot rattlesnake skin someone gave me. People bring me gifts to add to the collection. It’s fun.”

Napanoch has a rich history; the town was originally powered by the mills that arose along the creek. Old Route 209 and Main Street are built on the Minisink Trail first trod by the Lenape, who called it “land overflowed by wa-

“I have a family that comes down from Olive twice a month—the kids love it because of the animals—and the wife just wrote me a really nice review, saying how great it was to take their family of six out without wrecking the budget.”
– Christine Schiff

ter.” Things sometimes got heated; Schiff remembers an old story about a colonial farm: “They had a cannon in their yard; there was a lot of conflict with the Indians in the early days,” she says. “They were the wealthiest family in town, and other people would settle nearby for their protection. But the story has it that when they were finally slaughtered, it was by the British…anyway, there’s a lot of drama to the history here, a lot of death. I think that’s why we’re so haunted.” The bar, she says, has several resident spirits who still come by.

Today’s Napanoch residents, de-

scended from the folks who worked the area’s many resorts and the nearby factories, are a peaceful bunch. “Folks here are really laid back—they love just making the house nice, having a decent car, and having fun together,” Schiff says. “The regulars are a huge part of what gives this bar its charm. When I first opened it as owner, people came flooding in with stories about Grandpa and Dad. Somebody brought me an old Polaroid picture. It felt so wonderful knowing how loved they were.”

To lean into that cozy vibe, she makes sure her menu is within local means.

“We serve a lot of cabbage, a lot of Polish dishes—we aren’t Polish, but we ate a lot of that because it’s affordable and wonderful,” she says. “We have fried baloney sandwiches—when was the last time you saw that on a menu? I did fine in the winter because the locals could come in and dine, and the other night we sold four orders of our kielbasa and cabbage dish. I have a family that comes down from Olive twice a month—the kids love it because of the animals—and the wife just wrote me a really nice review, saying how great it was to take their family of six out without wrecking the budget.”

The scene, she says, is a refuge from the world of high-tech, low-touch communication. “People come in and have a beer and some good conversation and laughs,” she says,

“instead of being on their phones all the time. It’s still the community’s watering hole, the place you can go for friendly chat and a game of darts.”

Lively karaoke happens on Friday nights, and live music on Saturdays.

And any day of the week, you’ll find humor and friendly love in the air, a love that encompasses everyone, from the baloney sandwich fans to the people who’ve always wanted to try a yak burger. Tune in to the RDI, as the locals have always called it, by following their Facebook page at The RDI. You never know what Schiff will think of next.

“I just added camel to the menu, and I told my staff we’d start it on Wednesdays,” she says. “Hump day, get it?”

the running deer inn bar & road kill grill

28 State Rte 55, Napanoch 845-210-7341, barnapanoch.com

415 Route 28, Kingston, NY 12401 (845) 331-4318

info@meredithsbread.com

Monday (11/24): 8am - 6pm

Tuesday (11/25): 8am-6pm Wednesday (11/26): 8am - 6pm

(11/27): CLOSED

Available in 6”, 8” & 10” sizes!

Apple | Apple Crumb
Apple Blueberry Crumb
Raspberry Crumb
Cherry | Chocolate Pecan | Coconut Custard Mixed Berry Crumb | Key Lime | Lemon | Pecan | Chocolate Pecan
Rhubarb
Sweet
Photo by Cottonbro Studio.

Fall in the Hudson Valley and Catskills doesn’t just fill lunchboxes—it fills kitchens with the scents of simmering apples, roasted squash, and cider on the stove. After a morning at the market or a weekend of apple and pumpkin picking, it’s time to bring the harvest home. Here are three unique, seasonal recipes to make the most of what’s in your basket—simple, creative, and brimming with local flavor.

pumpkin risotto with sage & brown butter

A silky, savory dish that turns pumpkin into comfort food at its finest.

Serves 6 Prep: 20 min Cook: 40 min

• 1 small sugar pumpkin or 1-1/2 cups pumpkin puree

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• 1 small onion, finely chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1-1/2 cups arborio rice

• 1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)

ingredients

• 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth (warmed)

• 2 tbsp butter

• 6–8 fresh sage leaves

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Grated parmesan for serving (optional)

directions

1. If using fresh pumpkin, roast, scoop, and mash or purée until smooth, then set aside.

2. In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until translucent. Add garlic and rice, stirring to coat the grains.

3. Pour in wine, if using, and stir until absorbed.

4. Begin adding warm broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring often and waiting until liquid is mostly absorbed before adding more.

5. After 10 minutes, stir in pumpkin. Continue adding broth until rice is creamy and tender, about 20–25 minutes total.

6. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt butter and fry sage leaves until crisp and fragrant (about 2 minutes).

7. Stir most of the brown butter into the risotto. Season to taste.

8. Serve warm, topped with sage leaves and a drizzle of the remaining butter. Add grated parmesan if desired.

Photo by Daniela Baumann.
Photo by Daniela Baumann.

apple & cheddar quesadillas

Sweet meets savory in this playful take on the classic apple-and-cheddar combo.

Serves 4

• 1 tsp butter or neutral oil for cooking

• 4 flour tortillas (8-inch)

• 1 tsp Dijon mustard (optional)

Prep: 10 min Cook: 10 min

• 2 apples (crisp, tart variety like Empire or Honeycrisp), thinly sliced ingredients directions

1. Heat a skillet over medium heat. Lightly brush with butter or oil.

2. Place a tortilla in the pan. Spread a thin layer of mustard, if using.

3. Layer with cheese and apple slices, then top with a second tortilla.

• 1-1/2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese

4. Cook until cheese begins to melt and the bottom is golden, about 2–3 minutes. Flip carefully and cook the other side.

5. Let cool slightly before slicing into wedges. Serve warm as a snack or light lunch.

Photo by Elena Veselova.

maple - spiced hot cider toddy

A cozy, spiced drink that’s easy to make and easy to love. Be sure to try our local bourbons from Tuthilltown Spirits, Stoutridge, and Warwick Valley Distilleries.

Serves 2-3 Prep: 5 min

• 3 cups fresh-pressed apple cider

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 2–3 whole cloves

• 1 thin slice fresh ginger or a pinch of ground ginger

• 2 tbsp maple syrup (adjust to taste)

• Juice of 1/2 lemon

• 2 oz (per serving) dark rum or bourbon

• Additional cinnamon sticks for garnish (optional) ingredients directions

1. In a small pot, combine cider, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and maple syrup. Bring to a gentle simmer.

2. Let steep for 10 minutes. Stir in lemon juice.

3. Strain into mugs. Add a splash of bourbon or rum, if desired, or enjoy as is.

4. Garnish with an apple slice or cinnamon stick and serve warm.

These recipes celebrate the best of the season—warming, flavorful, and meant to be shared. Whether you’re unwinding after school pickup or gathering around a fall dinner table, they’re a reminder of how delicious the harvest can be. You can also just leave out the alcohol for a delicious mocktail.

Photo by Brent Hofacker.

Come Together

Taste Sullivan Catskills

October 2-5

Where nature inspires the table and every bite tells a story.

Zach Blas, Face Cages, 2014–2016, courtesy of the artist

The Arts

borscht belt museum

photos by owley studios

Millions of hours of fun and relaxation. Heaping helpings of comfort foods that have since become American standards.

Gales of joyous laughter that still echo today. It’s impossible to overstate the goodness that the Borscht Belt, right here in the Catskills, brought to the rest of the world. And with a splendid museum and a blast of a matching summer festival in Ellenville, descendants and admirers of that seminal era have made sure the Borscht Belt’s Golden Age gets a resounding encore.

Amid the rampant antisemitism

of the early 20th century and the horrors of World War II, New York’s Jewish community built the Borscht Belt—a place where the welcome was warm and the food familiar, where you could laze by the pool, dress to the nines for the nightclub, breathe deep, and relax. The culture was smart, scrappy and a touch subversive. It came bearing bagels and chocolate rugelach, stuck around to bring us stand-up comedy, and taught the world one reason why marginalizing anyone is the worst kind of foolishness: That person you think is beneath you may well be having way more fun than you are.

It’s impossible to overstate the goodness that the Borscht Belt, right here in the Catskills, brought to the rest of the world.

Well over a thousand lodging destinations made up the constellation of Jewish summer retreats, from family boarding houses and lively bungalow colonies to grand resorts like Grossinger’s and Kutsher’s.

“It wasn’t just the Jewish community that carved out niches in the Catskills,” Andrew Jacobs, president of the Borscht Belt Museum board of directors, points out. “There were resorts started by the Italians, the Irish, the Germans. There was the Peg Leg Bates Country Club and the Utopia Lodge welcoming African Americans, and Casa Susanna, a retreat for crossdressing men. That was all Catskills.”

Well over a thousand lodging destinations made up the constellation of Jewish summer retreats, from family boarding houses and lively bungalow colonies to grand resorts

like Grossinger’s and Kutsher’s, employing legions of teenagers in first jobs and offering city folk fresh summer air. Mothers and kids would spend summers up here, welcoming Papa for the weekend to soak up the sunshine and partake of the glam nightclub and comedy scene.

Those places have been shuttered for decades now, with a new generation of Catskills hospitality coming into its own as a delightful smorgasbord with treats for every palate. Meanwhile, the cultural resonance of the Borscht Belt—there’s a meme on social media right now about the parenting choices in Dirty Dancing—isn’t going anywhere. Every person enjoying a

stand-up routine or an all-inclusive vacation spot can thank the innovators of the Borscht Belt for those pleasures.

The Borscht Belt Museum offers all of us the chance to see the Catskills-based revolution in American fun up close and in immersive fashion. Housed in an elegant former bank that was once one of a tiny handful willing to lend to Jewish business folk, it’s the only place on Earth where you can step back in time into a Kutsher’s hotel room or a bungalow kitchen. There are loads of Borscht Belt artifacts, and even the story of their collecting has a deliciously outsider vibe. Allen Frishman, a retired plumber who served as building inspector for the town of Fallsburg in the years when the resorts were changing hands and being demolished,

had an eye for resonant memorabilia. “His parents and grandparents ran a bungalow colony, and he’s very much a mountain guy,” Jacobs says. “He had to go and condemn these buildings, and he would pick up and save little bits and pieces. So his collection is at the heart of what we’re doing—it’s been a big inspiration.”

The bank building was most definitely a handyman special, and Jacobs says each step of the renovation—slated to be completed this year—has added layers of possibility. “Meanwhile, we are most definitely up and running, going like gangbusters even,” he says.

Along with the exhibits, the museum provides a steady stream of educational and cultural programming, partnering with the Shad-

owland Stages for film and comedy fests, hosting thought-provoking evenings of lectures and discussion, welcoming families for interactive adventures and workshops, and compiling an oral history project that will add yet more vivid content to the extensive archives.

The Borscht Belt Fest, happening this July 26 and 27 for the third time, brings thousands to the streets of this pretty little mountain village for fun, food, and a whole lot of laughs. “We had 80 volunteers come out and around 8,000 visitors. We had 30 different shows,” Jacobs says of the 2024 bash. “Comedy, cabaret, talks, panels, a Dirty Dancing outdoor singalong screening. There was just so much joy.”

The museum is hands-on and “so interactive that it gets downright raucous

in the best way,” Jacobs says. “People come in and hang out and talk. We have this table where you can sit and write letters, you can talk to the docents and hear amazing stories—it’s a very social vibe, and it comes with a friendly little wink, you know. Some of the mid-century modern of it is very garish, very much of that moment, and we elevate that and people are absolutely loving it.”

Come and see for yourself. Check out what Jacobs calls the “Borscht Belt 101” video to refresh yourself on the history, feast your eyes on the giant gefilte fish triptych, look through a vintage View-Master at scenes from a vanished time, and be part of the ongoing evolution of this monument to the power of community, comfort food, and the snappy comeback.

borscht belt museum

90 Canal Street, Ellenville borschtbeltmuseum.org 845-879-3561

WE IMPROVE OUR CLIENTS’ LIVES BY IMPROVING THEIR LIVING SPACES

WE IMPROVE OUR CLIENTS’ LIVES BY IMPROVING THEIR LIVING SPACES

We’re not your typical kitchen and bath company. We are a design firm that creates functional spaces tailored to the unique needs and preferences of our clients.

We’re not your typical kitchen and bath company. We are a design firm that creates functional spaces tailored to the unique needs and preferences of our clients.

WE IMPROVE OUR CLIENTS’ LIVES BY IMPROVING THEIR LIVING SPACES

We pay close attention to detail and take the time to understand their lifestyle, needs, desires and vision, ensuring that every element is both intentional and beautifully designed.

We pay close attention to detail and take the time to understand their lifestyle, needs, desires and vision, ensuring that every element is both intentional and beautifully designed.

We’re not your typical kitchen and bath company. We are a design firm that creates functional spaces tailored to the unique needs and preferences of our clients.

& Seek for Yourself FIND GOLD

In Ulster County, fall paints the world in rich amber, crimson, and gold hues. As the sun dances among the Catskill peaks, every hillside blazes with color, every trail becomes a magical path, and every moment feels dipped in something sacred. Come for a weekend or wander longer through abundant orchards, along quiet rivers, or atop scenic overlooks that make time stand still. The beauty isn’t just in the view. It’s in how it makes you feel. Seek the season. And strike gold in Ulster County.

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