KissmyTurku2019_EN by Visit Turku

The real Åboriginal guide to the finest and most irritating city in Finland.

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What does Turku feel like? WE DECIDED TO GO AND ASK P. 6

THE GOURMET TOUR Conquer the culinary Turku p.

EXPERIENCE TURKU'S ARCHIPELAGO

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The view from a kayak p. Aboard the Swedish ships p.

NOTORIOUS HILLS Strolling to the dark side of Turku, with crime author Jari Salonen p.

KISS MY TURKU IS VISIT TURKU'S CONTENT MARKETING CONCEPT, WHICH OFFERS INSPIRATION FOR TOURISTS AND LOCALS, PUBLISHED ONLINE AND IN PRINT TOGETHER WITH COOPERATING PARTNERS. THE OFFICIAL VISIT TURKU TOURISM WEBSITE OPERATES FROM VISITTURKU.FI.

4 Editorial

5 LOVE/HATE Turku in Movies See the Turku of the big screen. 6–9 What does Turku feel like?

Turku just feels... hmm…you decide.

10 LOVE/HATE Five tastes of Turku

11 From Hansa to Turku design

Great tastes of Turku, by the Bishop's decree. From mainstream shops to dens of design.

12–13 How do you create a premium hotel? Welcome to the hotel that Turku deserves. 14–15 Tantalising restaurants x 11 Foodie heaven from one to eleven.

photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH and JEMINA SORMUNEN photo on adjacent page JEMINA SORMUNEN cover photo JEMINA SORMUNEN

16 LOVE/HATE Runaway to Turku Would you cycle for the one you love?

17 From Turku to water x 4

contents 20 19

From little boats to big ships.

18–21 The view from a kayak

Aboard a kayak, everything is different.

22 Meanwhile somewhere else x 4

23 The Great Spa Test

Presenting life outside Turku.

Guiding through a maze of magnificence.

24–25 Super fun for the little ones!

Making the little become big.

6–29 Notorious hills 2 The author and the secrets of the seven hills. 30–31 Superb museums x 11 Nothing new, other than contemporary art. 32–33 Around the Archipelago Sea in 11 hours

The height of nicety in the Archipelago.

34 Programme and packages

35 Info

Visit Turku presents: experiences. Feeling a little lost, are you?

Editorial FROM THE START, A FULL CONFESSION: I’m a true Turku-local.

And another confession: I’ve not really thought how I experience it, that is, how it feels to be from Turku. For this magazine (which actually is a first edition of our annual Kiss my Turku magazine) we asked people how they felt about Turku. And the feelings were described in more than 1300 different ways. From page six onwards, read the story that grew into more than we’d have ever expected. If I had to describe how my Turku feels, my answer would go something like this: "Turku feels like style, fashion and design." My feelings were born in the 1980’s, when working as a fashion journalist I got to know the legendary Lenita Airisto and the charismatic characters of Arto Elovirta and Ritva-Liisa Pohjalainen. Finland was booming and for those from Turku, Stockholm was fashion heaven just a short boat ride away. Oh wow, those shoulder paddings we had! Inspiration from those colourful years has found new life in fabric bags of locals and fans of Turku, in the form of "Varför Paris, vi har ju Åbo". The collection, Kestilä designed by Timo Sarpaneva, was inspired by the comment of a Swedish journalist. Looking back is lovely but Turku’s future is more important than its past, and there’s plenty of history to be made. I always highlight the new generation of Turku design whenever I get the column space to do so. So, whether it’s recycled earrings that get inquiries from fascinated strangers, or hand towels with our famous Föri ferry, go and shop in Turku’s small and distinctive design boutiques. My own favourites are Televisio, PUF Design and the small shop of fashion designer Kisu Korsi, to name-drop a couple. Also, don’t miss the Boutique Week in May! Maybe, after reading this magazine your emotions of Turku are that bit more distinct – just like we are. Whatever you feel, it’s worth coming here to find out why the emotions about Turku are so strong. Anne-Marget Hellén Director of Tourism Visit Turku

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

20 19 PUBLISHER: Visit Turku 2019 CONCEPT AND COORDINATION: Drama Queen Communications EDITORIAL TEAM: Anna-Maria Palkén, Liina Komi, Mirkka Varho, Laura Andersson, Jemina Sormunen, Elina Sihvola, Kim Allen-Mersh, Juuso Suominen, Stina Frimodig, Julia Lehtilä, Annina Ranimo, Patrick Selin and Senni Uusikartano SMALL PRINT: Everything can change but surely you knew that anyway. Don’t get surprised if that happens but instead be prepared for twists of destiny by checking the opening times of places and so on, online. Kiss kiss.

LOVE/HATE Turku in Movies AN A-LIST CAPITAL - DID YOU KNOW, ALREADY THIS CENTURY THE TURKU REGION HAS BEEN IN THIRTY MOVIES, SEVERAL TV-SERIES, SHORT FILMS, ANIMATIONS AND DOCUMENTARIES. NOT BAD GOING FOR THE OLD CAPITAL CITY. CHECK OUT THE FILMING LOCATIONS OF TURKU’S 5 COOLEST CAMEOS.

Kylämäki Village

text LAURA ANDERSSON photo JOUNI KURU / ZODIAK FINLAND from the movie Onneli, Anneli ja nukutuskello

The four building country farm of Kylämäki Village is not your normal outside museum but rather a village of living history. And what could possibly be more suited to this living theme than movies – such as the charming Onneli, Anneli ja nukutuskello, based on the children’s book, in which this time the familiar duo’s adventures take them to the home of an absent-minded inventor. In summer 2019, the Kylämäki experience gets even better, when the movie world is brought through VR- and AR-technology.

River Aura Shores

Turku Cathedral

Rope Factory Door

Föri

The River Aura is really something special and a great place to work, an opinion shared by those scouting for filming locations, for example. There is one problem though – it’s just too beautiful. The foreign film festival didn’t want to show the 1999 movie Restless, because the themes of the Aku Louhimies film just didn’t fit with the gorgeous summer sunshine of the River Aura scenery.

Turku Cathedral is already over 700 years old and has served as the setting for sacred events, but the national shrine can also be spotted on the big screen. In the Norwegian movie, Flame above Jolster, the cathedral plays the role of an Italian church, and in Mika Kaurismäki’s 2015 movie The Girl King, it played the part of the 17th Century Stockholm Cathedral. Turku is apparently very European, but this is what we’ve been trying to tell you!

Here in Turku, even our doors are so special they get a cameo in big movies. Sometimes artistic vision requires an actor to ‘bend’ to the role, and our doors are nothing if not flexible performers. Just ask the door at the Köysitehtas rope factory, which has twice had a role as a nightclub door. In the comedy Reunion, the gang goes to Turku and the door of Köysitehtas opens magically onto the nightclub Apollo.

Föri, the well-known star of the local transport system, also operates as a filming location, as seen in the Finnish-Mexican movie Bayoneta. Turku appears in sleet and darkness (extremely odd given Turku is permanently bathed in sunshine – well, movies aren’t real anyway). The movie’s main star Luis Méndez described it as lovely, pretty and unique. What an admirable attitude to winter in Finland.

MATERIAL FOR THIS ARTICLE WAS TAKEN FROM AN INTERVIEW WITH THE FOUNTAIN OF ALL TURKU-BASED FILM KNOWLEDGE, SUPERB MOVIE WALK GUIDE ANNAMARI LAINE. READ MORE ABOUT VISIT TURKU’S OWN PRODUCTS FROM PAGE 34

What does Turku feel like? TURKU HAS BEEN SAID TO HAVE THE SOUL OF A METROPOL IN A BODY OF A SMALLTOWN. AMONG THE CITIES OF FINLAND, TURKU IS THE ONE TO RAISE FIERCE EMOTIONS. INSPIRED BY THAT, WE TOOK THE RISK AND ASKED ONLINE: WHAT DOES TURKU FEEL LIKE? WE GOT 1359 ANSWERS. HERE'S ONE HUNDRED OF THEM – FOR, AGAINST, AND A BIT OFF THE TOPIC.

"Turku feels like a big pop-up club in the summer. Turku feels like a small fair in the winter." – Aapeli

text LIINA KOMI and LAURA ANDERSSON photo WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

"Ruissalo Island feels like a fairy-tale forest, its long shoreline like Paradise." – Hanna-Mari "A distant dream, sounding like the sea. Is it even real?" – Pulsu

"Fish. Turku feels like fish."

– Ka

"The Middle Ages. In a good way." – M "My friends and I, we have always talked about Turku as the city of love." – Ira "The saying "Turku is the a*****e of Finland" is known by everybody in this country, but I dare to say: few really know Turku." – Otto "Turku gives you permission to make it your own and personal." – Karo

"I have this feeling that some day I'll come back for good. Home."

– I'm going Home

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

THE TRUTH BARÅMETER M E A S U R E S T U R K U V I B R AT I O N S O N L I N E AT K I S S MY T U R K U. F I . I F YO U H AV E F E E L I N G S F O R O U R C I T Y, TO O, L E T T H E M C O U N T. CLICK IT ALL OUT!

85% 15% LOVE – HATE The material for this article was collected in the fall 2018 at kissmyturku.fi. By the end of November we got 1359 answers to the question "What does Turku feel like?". We chose a hundred of them and wrote the story balancing the feelings according to the Baråmeter. Thus about 85 % of the answers we used say something more or less nice about Turku – and about 15 % do not.

"The dialect is not terrible any more, sometimes astonishing but not often infuriating." – Heisky "People always try to f**k with a Turkuner, but I always give as good as I get." – Jallu "As a 5th generation Turku girl I'm proud of my international hometown. The reason others slander our city is envy from the little upstart villages." – Seija "You'll find about the same amount of backward rednecks and aware idealists in Turku." – Lothar of Turku "Turku brings to mind the ferry that took me cross the river in 1966. I had a wart, and I believed it had dropped in the water." – Taramara "The old orange city ferry called FÖRI is the thing that always makes people go like WHAT!!!" – Sepa "Turku feels bigger than it is." – Tinttuli "Sense of rush is rare here. The beat of Turku is unhurried." – Lothar of Turku

"An encounter with Turku is, for example, the first warm day of spring when the whole city emerges from winter hibernation and flocks to the river banks." – Ninni

"I often point out that I'm not from Turku, but I like to represent the city and its people. I have to admit that I get some satisfaction from the reactions." – I'm not from Turku "Selfish Center of the Universe Sourpuss City. On the other hand, good service here and there." – Anxiety "Who defines this content? An all Turku panel?" – Päivi

"Life, livings, a smile here, a tear there. Shameless, happy, whole." – Incidental Stepper

"Turku is my Paris, Tallinn and Stockholm. I love Turku, which is pretty strange for someone from Helsinki, considering the classic Helsinki-Turku lovehate relationship." – Turkulove

"A bit like Hämeenlinna was made bigger and taken closer to the sea." – Palvi

"The banks of the River Aura are so cool and so full of life. Perfect spots for a beer-pack picnic." – Mariastiina

"Turku would be a nice city without the locals."

"We envy you for the sea." – Liilakka

"Turku feels like it could be my home." – Svantte "Turku feels merchantish and mustardey. Really good and genuine Finnish, that is." – Hottis

– SorryNotSorry

"Let's not stomp Turku under the sea, ok? We should rather move it in the place of the soulless Helsinki. A wheelbarrow by wheelbarrow, if needed." – Minna

"Turku feels good. Occasionally a little bit tiring, but mostly like an everyday adventure." – Macrogurl "I love Turku nowadays. It hasn't always been this way." – Wintersnow

"I like Turku, it's messy and sexy just like many men there." – Affected

"My husband's uncle talks about #turkuonlythings, by which he means anything funny I say or do." – Lotta

"It belongs to me, and I belong to it." – Barefooted

"I had a summer job in Turku in 1973. I returned in 2017. Unlike me, Turku had gotten younger. Lovely river banks, people cycling, international atmosphere!" – Heila

"Walking by the river in the twilight you forget you are mad at the bus driver who didn't take you aboard, even though he saw you running in desperation. You may even thank him in your mind and wonder if this beautiful melody plays in your head – or is the Fairy-tale Bridge loose again?" – Poyhiah

"Turku is not the best city, but it's better than Tampere anyway." – Harri

"In Turku I tend to feel this deja vu, just like I have always been there" – A future citizen of Turku

”The whole city annoys me. People who have moved there are constantly hyping it in whatever media they can find but in reality they are just trying to make themselves feel good about their own bad judgement.” – Kimmo ”There is an apple tree, a currant bush and a cherry tree growing in my parents' garden. As a kid I carried sand to the root of the cherry tree, although I have no idea why. My sweetheart is softened by this, for her it’s idyllic that I’m from Turku. A bit childish but beautiful. I consider myself cosmopolitan. To her, I’ll always be a boy from Turku, a boy who talks a bit silly. A boy who gets emotional about Martti, who has a story from every corner. Who gets a bit hurt if someone makes fun of Turku.” – A boy from Vähäheikkilä

”Everytime I see a wooden house that hasn’t got tears anymore I feel like crying from happiness.” – Mell ”Turku is embodied in its silly main library building. One end is historical and dignified, the other a modern cube. Somehow they work seamlessly together and create a functional ensemble. – Ulla

”Turku is a beautiful city but I don’t like people.” – Mirca ”Personally; regrettably distant. Confident but insular. Beautiful and interesting but very traditional with no surprises.” – Lennu ”I actually went as far as starting to paint a picture of myself as a future Turkuner, and it looked good.” – In Tinder

forever?

”What annoys me the most are Turkuners who have fled from their village and go around parroting “joovai?”. Well yea, yea!!!” – From Tampere, nääs ”Well, Turku is like a grater.” – That would be all

”In my home there are curtains of the River Aura and a wall print of a photo my dad took of fireworks during Turku Day. I have also infected my husband with some Turku-lingo.”

”Turku intrudes.” – I'm from Turku

– Cata

– A new turkuner

”It feels like there are more talented and pretty people in Turku than in the rest of Finland.” – Xenia

”In Turku my fringe points upwards when I’m heroically crossing whatever town square in a headwind.”

"The only problem is your dialect." – Tupsu

”Turku is like the distant, chic aunt who offers you a room to stay in while studying: who is not called “mom” by anyone but her own kids, and doesn’t even want to be. But there is a certain kind of pride I feel about her. I love showing Turku to my friends.” – Ulla

"A warm, deep, slightly bohemian velvety embrace, whose cultural fringes tickle your cheek.” – Kikka "Turku is the best place in Finland, right after Stadi. My newest crush is the Jokke Jokijuna.” – A girl from Tölikkä

”I like Turku, its humane rhythm; its beat doesn’t suffocate a wanderer.” – Tekla

"In Turku one does not get stared at, unlike in small towns, but either over and past like in Helsinki. Maybe it’s some kind of everyday presence.” – Lothar of Turku

”Slightly hermetic but warm on the inside.”

– Ulla

”There are four people in my family. We are all born in different cities. One is a Turkuner. He differs from the rest of us by being tall and handsome.” – From a herd ”Turku sucks some serious a**. However I find my OWN derriere there regularly. Why? Because the a**iness of Turku is the most beautiful thing in the world.” – Sibbobo

”Since I was four I’ve been a Turkuner mentally, to my family's horror, a proper black (and white) sheep.” – Johku ”Turku is full of warmth and love!” – Joyanna ”A cramped, international city, with people who are sulky and snappy.” – Tansu

”Coming to Turku feels like entering Narnia through the wardrobe.” – Päksä ”Just telling you, might be moving back to Helsinki soon!” – Birgitta

"Turku is a vain, rejoiceful city.” – Arja

"Turku is leisurely, resolute, reliable and diverse, like a good friend.” – Jossu

”I’m from Satakunta so dissing Turku has been a part of my life since the early days.” – Emma

"I have learned to understand Turkuners, since my husband was born at Heideken." – Turku FAN

”The man in the record store knows which vinyls interest you by the way you look, in a full restaurant a Swedish-speaking yacht club doesn’t mind you sitting at the end of their long table. In Turku you belong.” – Ilpo

”Turku feels like a breeze from history. Turku feels introverted. Turku feels like a hug from dad when I need encouragement.” – Piula

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

”It feels like Turku knows the treasures it’s hiding and makes conversation with a bypasser: We won’t be here forever.” – Mää ”Turku lives through wars and terrorism. In spite of all this, the River Aura flows into the Airisto Sea, a guitar plays on Puolalanmäki and people dance at Uittamo. And so life goes on, and that, if anything, is what being from Turku means.” – Karo ”The Turku lingo is funny.” – Mappi ”Turku, ah, the city that is liked and at the same time so hated. I also recognize that in myself.” – Iisinen ”It’s true that the Turkuners’ primary tone is negative.” – Merituuli

”Every time I step out of the door I feel privileged.” – Ipa

”People are so proud of being from Turku, I’ve never met love that strong towards a hometown.” – PH ”People from Turku have to diss every other city in Finland just to make themselves feel better.” – Pave

Fun fact: SMEAR FOR ONE, PLEASE.

Dissing Turku. Ain’t it the inseparable and jolly part of the Finnish folklore. But who knew that the hatred actually originates from a tactical dirt crusade? In 1809, when Finland was taken over by Russia, it appeared a tad awkward to have the capital so near the old ruler, Sweden. Helsinki instead was conveniently close to St. Petersburg and was thus proclaimed the new capital. But there wasn’t exactly much going on in the village descimated by the plague just a hundred years before, then burned down by the Swedish army and subsequently occupied by Russia. There was a feeling of inferiority – the town of barely 4 000 citizens didn’t really have a history. Even the population didn't exceed that of Turku until the 1840’s. Enter courtier and diplomat, the Russian count Gustaf Mauritz Armfelt, who decided to resort to dubious ways to justify the change of capital. He started to spread articulate lies. Armfelt wrote about Turku being a poisonous den with a dreadful atmosphere, wicked hags and folk, well, generally trash. Over the course of the years the origin of the lies was forgotten but the strange confrontation remained. And maybe it’s not so bad. Because that’s what Turku does. Awakens feelings.

”The intestine of Finland, the point of the cape, the fountain of civilization.” – Nessie ”Like Tampere but still completely unique.” – Inna "Turku is small and convenient. Turku is parochial and open. Turku is proud for a reason and proud for no reason. Turku is wonderful and distressing.” – Irga ”After climbing over the language barrier I understood that the people here are simply awesome.” – A Chick of Tampere ”Why aren’t we kind to every country yokel? Well, the real question is: Why would we be?” – Meiju

”It’s just like The Bold and the Beautiful but IRL!” – Minde ”Turku tastes fresh, and when the wind comes you already know to expect it.” – Ao At every encounter Turku has showed up as a place of beauty, kindness and hospitality. But never as a “softy”, always very well aware of its own worth.” – Sinappi ”I love the culture scene of Turku: the Cathedral, the Turku Castle, the River Aura. The nearness of sea and the archipelago are crucial to me. To me Turku also means living bilingualism.” – Anelina ”I think Turku has the heart of New York.” – Trade

”Turku is an adventure.” – Ilona ”There’s always a pinch of romance to be found, too.” – Manna

”Turku in the spring time can be mistaken for Paris. The flowers blooming on the river banks, the murmur of an unfamiliar language, the clicking of dishes in a café.” – Ilona

”No lakes nearby, that's a big of negative. The sea just isn’t enough ;)” – Fuzz ”From what I've seen, they must put something in the water in Turku. Nothing else explains the overly positive people. I definitely want the same substance to be added to water in the Helsinki metropolitan area.” – Katariina

”There’s an unlimited access to everywhere in the world from Turku, and the Archipelago is like children in front of their mother.”

– Katti

”The best thing ever is fries from the town square grill with all the flavourings. That's when Turku feels like a timeless moment.” – Tiitu ”There’s some kind of magic in Turku, especially in the spring nights along the river banks. When I’m lost and sad, I feel like Turku picks me up and holds me close.” – Inka ”The Middle Ages, grilled pork, home brewed beer and bustle of a fair.” – Tero ”Why would it feel like anything.” – Laura "As a journalist I play this little game of mine with the people from Tampere by writing articles to Aamulehti and often choosing a specialist from the University of Turku. I definitely have a love-hate relationship with Turku.” – Ellikki

LOVE/HATE Five tastes of Turku FORGET WHAT YOU THINK YOU KNOW – THIS IS THE BISHOP’S DOUGHNUT! TURKU HAS IT’S OWN STYLE AND NAMES, ALWAYS THAT LITTLE BIT BETTER IN HOW THEY SOUND AND, OF COURSE, TASTE. GET ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE LANGUAGE BARRIER – LOVE THEM OR HATE THEM, HERE ARE FIVE GASTRONOMIC CREATIONS FROM A TRUE CULINARY CAPITAL.

Bishop’s Doughnut

text LAURA ANDERSSON photo LEIPOMO ROSTEN

Perhaps you know it as the Berliner doughnut? Well, not in Turku. Discovered in Finland in the 1860’s, the blessed raspberry jam and divine homemade creation of sugar and fat, was quickly christened as the celebrated Bishop’s treat. And once again, of course, Turku has got it right and everyone else is wrong.

Double Hesburger

Raisin Sausage

Sallatti Salad

From Blanko to Dynamo to Hesburger and home. Having created the world’s best mayonnaise, our sympathies go out to those who haven’t. Those crossing a line by mistakenly complimenting other hamburger chains, can expect evil glares and cold shoulders.

The Turku Market Hall butcher sells around 40-50 kilos of raisin sausages a week. If still wondering what you should be when you grow up, how about a raisin sausage maker? There’s only a dozen or so in existence and demand is growing. Sit by the river and bite down on a juicy sausage.

We might not have been very inventive with the name, but this is a truly unique salad mix. Originating in the bourgeoisie circles of the southwest region in the 1800’s, Sallatti spread all over Finland. Among other ingredients, it contains apple and salted herring. Surprise your family at Christmas.

Archipelago New Potatoes As most of Finland’s new potatoes are grown in Southwest-Finland’s archipelago, we’ve happily patented the entire plant. Of course, there’s also the New Potato Festival here as well. As a serving suggestion for the delicacy, try the traditional half-kilo of butter.

IS YOUR MOUTH WATERING? OF COURSE IT IS. READ MORE ON PAGE 34 ABOUT THE TURKU FOOD WALK CARD, AND GET A PASSPORT TO THE HEART OF TURKU’S RESTAURANT CULTURE.

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

SHOPPING & ENTERTAINMENT

From Hansa to Turku’s design boutiques – there’s something for everyone Holidays are a time to really shop and have fun. And shopping in Turku is a really satisfying experience, whether at the city’s oldest shopping centre or browsing the quaint boutiques, discovering original Turku items with a distinctive local twist.

text STINA FRIMODIG photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH, JULIA LEHTILÄ and PATRICK SELIN

SHOPPING CENTRE HANSA is Turku’s central shopping point, where adults, teens and kids are all guaranteed to find something suitable. Operating for 30 years, under Hansa’s roof you’ll find the only Zara in southwest Finland, the country's largest H&M and the Marimekko flagship store, full of classic styles and collections to admire. In addition to businesses specialised in fashion, Hansa also houses stores specialising in games, toys, books, jewellery, athletics gear, interior design and electronics. And of course in Hansa you’ll also find the legendary Stockmann department store, which has been serving in the same location since 1982. Hansa’s close neighbour is the building site of Turku’s new Market Square, but it’s nothing to be worried about. Normal service in the centre continues, with parking also at the P-Louhi and Stockmann parking halls. Busses service all the suburbs, arriving right outside Hansa. IF LOOKING FOR SOMETHING SMALL AND LOCAL, check out Turku-design. A school of trend combining Scandinavian style and local colour, featured in many places in Turku. Get started by exploring KUI Design behind the tourist office and PUF Design Market in Forum Court.

1. PUF DESIGN MARKET sells Finnish designer brands and charmingly traditional Turku items. Buy some stylish ÅBO tennis socks or a delightful poster of Turku Cathedral. 2. HANSA SHOPPING CENTRE has many great places to eat or get coffee. Popular amongst the editorial team at least, are Pizzarium, Hanko Sushi, Powau, Gelato Nuvole and Fazer Café.

3. KUI DESIGN brings together products from small Turku-based designers. Pick up some of the phenomenal "Varför Paris, vi har ju Åbo" bags. 4. BOUTIQUE ROOSA is for many locals a reason to go shopping in Naantali.

hansakortteli.fi | pufdesignmarket.com | kuidesign.fi | putiikkiroosa.fi

How do you create a premium hotel? text LIINA KOMI photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH and PUROPLAN OY in cooperation with TOK - www.sokoshotels.fi/en/turku/sokos-hotel-seurahuone

THERE’S A NEW HOTEL IN TURKU. WE DIDN’T HAVE THE PATIENCE TO WAIT FOR THE OPENING, SO WE EXPLORED THE VISION OF THOSE IN CHARGE OF TRANSFORMING SEURAHUONE, THROUGH THE EYES OF SANNA BYSKATA, AMONG OTHERS.

“IF HOTEL SEURAHUONE WAS A PERSON,

it would be a trendy godmother, with red lipstick and leather pants, always impressing with something new and wonderful every time you meet. They are a super social type, constantly entertaining lots of guests, organising dinner parties and always ready with a warm hug whenever you arrive or say goodbye,” eloquently explains the hotel manager Sanna Byskata. Solo Sokos Hotel Turku’s Seurahuone is one of the most interesting things in Turku’s hotel industry for some time. There is a certain expectation in tourism that as the restaurant boom raises standards, people turn toward the Turku hotels and expect them to live up to that quality. Responsible for the new boutique hotel is TOK, embracing new trends and seeking to meet the increasingly individualised expectations of the modern consumer. “As a big player, we have the networks to develop new concepts and implement them properly,” says Sanna Byskata, continuing: “This has been a great opportunity to experiment with new collaborations with specialist design companies. For example, the inspiration for the restaurant comes from Aki Wahlman’s Foody Allen, whilst responsible for interior design is Jaakko Puro, the designer behind highly acclaimed interiors of Lilla Roberts and Haven.” WHEN THE DESIGN PROCESS FOR SEURAHUONE BEGAN, current trends were carefully

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

considered and then those that were most essential for the project were chosen. “The things which mattered to us most were locality, responsibility and personality,” says Sanna Byskata, continuing: “We want those who stay with us to have a clear feeling during their whole visit that they’re in Turku and nowhere else. In addition, we also want that even urbanites come to stay with us for the weekend. "Staycation" is a getaway in your hometown and a new trend in the world of city breaks that Seurahuone wants to be a part of.” What then in Seurahuone is from Turku? The staff of course, they're local and provide a natural, high quality service that's distinctly Turku. Also, the beautiful building of Seurahuone itself, dating from 1928, is a valuable property designed by architect Erik Bryggman, a famous son of Turku. Although the guests of Seurahuone in Turku are leisure travellers, it couldn’t flourish without local clientele. “The appreciation locals have for Seurahuone is a measure of our success. When the city residents make Seurahuone their own, it’s easy to sell to others. It’s no secret that the citizens of Turku have high expectations.” SEURAHUONE’S LOCAL AND TOURIST CLIENTELE are naturally

brought together in the restaurant. The restaurant at Seurahuone is named Gunnar Eatery & Bar, and Gunnar is bringing a completely new concept to the city’s culinary culture. “In Turku it’s not easy, because you already have a very

CARING FOR THE INGREDIENTS The name of the small black sheep is Gunnar, and it sits drinking milk on the lap of the restaurant’s godmother, Paula Stam. We are at the SikkaTalu sheep farm in Rymättylä getting to know the partner companies for Seurahuone’s restaurant Gunnar. “I’m actually a vegetarian, and I founded the farm in order to supply the market with more products to meet the needs of customers like me,” explains the farmer Katja Sikka, continuing: “On our farm people have responsibilities and the animals have rights, and this can be tasted in the products.” For example, in Seurahuone sheep’s-milk finds its way to the breakfast table as yoghurt and as ice cream on Gunnar’s desert menu.

IT’S NO SECRET T H AT C I T I Z E N S OF TURKU H AV E H I G H E X P EC TAT I O N S.

good restaurant scene even without us,” says the smiling restaurant manager of Gunnar Sami Kivirinta, and continues: “Because we already know the city’s restaurant culture, we also know what the city is still missing. So our strategy in Gunnar is to invest in so-called social eating. Here we have room for larger parties. The menu contains a lot of dishes designed for sharing, and from the cellar you’ll find a good selection of magnum and jeroboam bottles. The atmosphere is relaxed and the staff will always have something new to offer.” “Another core tenet of the restaurant is our close links with local producers and consumers. From the beginning, the development of Gunnar had the input from a gang of eight local ‘connoisseurs’, which we gathered together through social media. Their role was to provide local insight, ideas and customer perspectives which we fed into the development of the restaurant.” Gunnar has partnered with six local specialist producers. For example, lamb, yoghurt and ice cream is brought in from the Sikka Talun sheep farm in Rymättylä. The house salad mix is brought in fresh from the Kotipello Graden. “The creators of the table settings are also regional producers, with the tableware from Terraviiva designers on Kaskenmäki.” DO YOU LOOK FOR A HOTEL WITH THE RIGHT MOOD, and carefully survey the hotel with a keen eye? Do you notice architectural features or carefully placed design details? Can you distinguish something that is completely new and different? “Seurahuone’s design went on to become exactly what Turku deserves,” summarises Jaakko Puro. “We started to make a fun hotel that has the desires of guests in mind rather than cleaning. All Turku was missing was a vibrant boutique hotel – and that’s exactly what they got.”

▼ ROSTER

Turku regards itself as the restaurant capital of the country and is ready to back up that reputation. Here are a few examples, with yet more great places at kissmyturku.fi

11X

THE GOURMET TOUR

Kaskis

The superstar of Turku’s restaurant scene is Kaskis, astonishing and brilliant whilst at the same time delightfully uncomplicated. Under the stewardship of Erik Mansika, the restaurant basks in the glow from both of Turku’s Michelin stars over the door. Reserve well in advance. Kaskenkatu 6a

Smör ▼ SMÖR

From the street level view, you wouldn’t easily guess the treasures that lie below. In Smör’s stone cellar, you can take a journey of Scandinavian flavour. Elegant and excellent – what more could you ask for? Läntinen Rantakatu 3

Kakolanruusu ▼ KAKOLANRUUSU

Found in the premises of Finland’s most notorious prison is another, more casual restaurant from the team behind Kaskis. Food is not served through the bars of a cell, but rather across an open flame, with barbecued food a Kakolanruusu speciality. Graniittilinnankatu 2

Roster

Within the historic perimeter of Turku Cathedral, residing in the old Governor’s building is restaurant Roster, complete with its handsome lighted skull adorning the wall. Under its watchful glow, good food is served without the formalities of fine dining. Tuomiokirkonkatu 6

E. Ekblom

Operating under the shade of the old trees along the River Aura, on E. Ekblom’s menu you’ll find chic bistro-style cuisine full of international flavours, and the wine list more than ideal. Läntinen Rantakatu 3

▼ KASKIS

texts LIINA KOMI, JEMINA SORMUNEN, JUUSO SUOMINEN and JULIA LEHTILÄ photos JEMINA SORMUNEN, PATRICK SELIN and JULIA LEHTILÄ

▼ E. EKBLOM

Tantalising restaurants

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

▲ VIINILLE

OUT FOR DRINKS Well, naturally, Turku is a superb place to pop out for a drink. As always, the Aura’s fleet of riverboat restaurants comes strongly recommended but we also have much more to offer.

Viinille

▲ KOULU

If you rather like a little bit of wine, then this is 'The It' location in Turku. The owners of this refined little place deliver expertise, passion as well as lots of intriguing bottles. Humalistonkatu 6

Panimoravintola Koulu

▲ OLD BANK

IA huge pub, substantial dining facilities and Finland’s largest restaurant brewery, located in the building of an old school founded in 1889. Through the back door you reach the beer garden terrace, to which many are drawn on balmy summer nights. Eerikinkatu 18

Old Bank

▲ CAFÉ BRAHE

Built in 1907 on the corner of Aurakatu and Linnankatu is the former bank of Turun Osakepankki. The premises are now home to the social hub and restaurant known as the Old Bank, referred to by its friends as Pankki. 150 different beers – say no more. Aurakatu 3

CAFÉ CULTURE Café Art

A favourite place for coffee connoisseurs and friends of culture, Café Art is well known for its Turun Kahvipaahtimo coffee, its homemade cakes and for being seven-time Barista of the Year. Läntinen Rantakatu 5

▲ CAFÉ ART

Café Brahe

The speciality of Cafe Brahe is the epic giant cinnamon buns, which will satisfy even the largest sweet tooth. They take centre stage in the display cases, both in terms of size and taste, at every Brahe location. Kauppakeskus Hansa, Eerikinkatu 17

Piece of Cake

▲ PIECE OF CAKE

Under the shelter of Turku’s atmospheric old market hall, you’ll find the baked handiwork of MBakery – the winner of Finland’s Best Bakery title in 2015. Inviting cakes, pastries and, if you’re in the mood, fresh bread to take away! Kauppahalli, Eerikinkatu 16

LOVE/HATE Runaway to Turku IF SOMEBODY TELLS YOU THAT THE BEST PLACE TO GO IN TURKU IS TO GO AWAY, DON’T TAKE OFFENSE – THAT MEANS WE LIKE YOU. FOR EXAMPLE, HERE YOU CAN HIRE THE LOVELY YELLOW FÖLI BIKES AND RIDE TO AN AMAZING SECLUDED SPOT. WHETHER IN THE MOOD FOR ROMANCE OR SOME CONTACT WITH NATURE, FOLLOW THESE FIVE +1 TIPS. WITH ALL OUR LOVE.

Kuuvannokka Lookout You did know, that Ruissalo has a reputation for stealing the unprotected heart. Pick up a Föli bike from the pedestrian high street and take the route that guides you to Kuuvannokka – 13 kilometres and fifty minutes later, you’re liberated from the stress of daily life. Suddenly, you’ll long for nothing else other than the sun setting over the Airisto. Also regarded Turku’s most romantic destination.

text LAURA ANDERSSON photo JENNI VIRTA

Jump to a Föli-bike and roll along the Aura, in a lovely, leisurely way. The adventurous jump from the saddle and walk instead. Turku is a place where the more carefully you look the more fantastic it becomes.

Katariinanlaakso

Halistenkoski

Turku Castle

Why not cuddle a lovedone under a leafy tree? And whether you’re hugging your dearest, your dog or your warm thermos, the atmosphere of Katariinanlaakso is straight from a fairy tale. At less than six kilometres from the city centre, it’s near even for a rusty cyclist – but just in case, grab something nourishing from the Market Hall so your energy doesn’t run out.

Just four kilometres from the city centre are the roaring Halistenkoski rapids, where the surrounding nature trails can be enjoyed anytime of day or year. During summer, at a charming café located close to the dam, you can rent canoes and enjoy coffee and pastries in the garden. An effortless trip for a public holiday and a refreshing break from the everyday.

Here’s to yesterday – or rather, 700 years ago. Turku Castle with its exhibitions and guided tours is only a few kilometres from the centre and a fascinating destination for both locals and holidaymakers. On the journey there, stop off at Forum Marinum by the giant daisy lying in the forecourt, or meander amidst the eternal Sunday-vibe along the River Aura shores.

Kuusisto Bishop's Palace Ruins Are you willing to work those thigh muscles in the name of culture? The ruins of Kuusisto’s Bishop’s Palace are a feast for the eyes and nourishing for the soul, with plenty to see and do. Even if you’re not that fit, the 16 kilometre journey takes a bit more than an hour, and in these landscapes that’s no bad thing. Pack up a thermos of hot chocolate and bring along your sweetheart.

PSSST! DID YOU KNOW, THAT WITH THE SAME FÖLI-CARD YOU CAN TRAVEL BY FÖLI-BIKE, FÖLI-BUSS AND EVEN THE FÖLI-WATERBUS DURING SUMMER? SIMPLY FABULOUS!

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

▲ VIKING LINE

Around here we know Turku’s Archipelago is the most beautiful in the world. You know this to be true but just in case you’re not convinced, here are a few ways to go from the city to the River Aura and the Archipelago Sea. There's more ideas at kissmyturku.fi.

Låna

▲ FÖLI-WATERBUS

From Turku to the water

An electric picnic boat is a fun way to get to know Turku. Hire a boat from the shores of Vähätori Square and head wherever you like – but not further than Turku Castle to avoid distress at sea. Aboard the boats Sintonic, Kuppi and Kippo do some sightseeing and enjoy your picnic in the middle of the river. lanaturku.fi

▲ LÅNA-BOATS

Turku has the most tremendous public transport vehicles. The Föli-waterbus has already been a success for a couple of summers and with just the price of a bus ticket, go all the way from the River Aura to Ruissalo and Pikisaari. The route operates with two vessels. Also, bring your own wheels – bikes are brought aboard free of charge on board. foli.fi

S/s Ukkopekka

Ukkopekka is +80-year-old steamship from Turku, Finland. During summer, Ukkopekka’s morning shift steams from the River Aura to the summer town of Naantali, and in the evening from Turku to the nearby Loistokari Island. Awaiting there are an archipelago buffet and romantic pier dancing ukkopekka.fi

Swedish Cruise Ships

From the deck of the giant cruise ships the archipelago stretches out in front of you. Jump aboard, be wowed by the archipelago scenery, shop and party till you drop… in a comfortable cabin! From the Port of Turku there are two flags flying high – the colours of Viking Line and Silja Line. vikingline.fi | tallinksilja.fi

▲ S/S UKKOPEKKA

texts JEMINA SORMUNEN and LIINA KOMI photos JEMINA SORMUNEN and VIKING LINE

Föli

text JUUSO SUOMINEN photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH in cooperation with Pargas and Kimito Island www.pargas.fi, www.visitkimitoon.fi

The view from a kayak - see and feel a different perspective THERE ARE WILDERNESS TRIPS THEN THERE ARE WILDERNESS TRIPS IN A KAYAK. PEOPLE COME FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD TO MARVEL AT TURKU’S ARCHIPELAGO. ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO BE AMAZED IS FLOATING THROUGH THE LANDSCAPES IN A CANOE.

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

K AYA K I N G AWA K E N S YO U R W I L D S I D E .

Then to the water “OK, here we go. There’s no other choice that to start canoeing,” states the guide, pushing his disciples to the water. Every push to the sea is accompanied by spontaneous cries of excitement: “Woohoo!” “Wahay!” “Watch out, it’s rocking!” In the shallows you practice turning and finding your balance. The body is stiff from head to toe, which is completely normal for first timers, apparently. The kayak moves best just as the guide has described. The power for paddling the canoe comes from the core middle body and not the hands. In the water the kayak is really light. Naturally, after a few minutes you get the confidence to move a bit quicker. The experience almost proves to be ill fated, as water starts to fill the inside from the upper right. If the seat opening is not properly protected, which a novice would call for convenience the sealing bag (cockpit cover), you’ll now have about three cups of water under your bum. TIP! Make sure you bring a change of clothes or go without trousers. The compartments of the kayak can fit a backpack and a few other items.

Finland’s best aquatic landscapes

WITH PADDLE IN HAND, raise your hands straight in front and begin to turn to make a pivot movement. Your hands support the aluminium paddle in the same position all the time, but relaxed and comfortable. The effort does not come from the hands but through the sides and core of the body. This is how you take your first steps when kayaking. The guide demonstrates the method, which is then repeated by a group of novice kayakers, like little ducklings learning to swim. “Are there any questions about this?” “No.” Well of course not, Finns never dare ask questions. There are things we’re left wondering but you can ask questions later, when others aren't listening. Next, the kayaks must be modified to fit, by correctly adjusting the bench and footrests. Squeezing to the kayak causes plenty of grunting, puffing and laughter. Some might have even tried the wrong way round. Fortunately, we are still on dry land.

Now it’s time to set out on the actual trip. The guide pointed out the route on the map at the beach but everything looks different from the water. The distance to the destination is five kilometres, which will take about an hour, if nobody falls in. After a bit of messing around, the journey settles into an easy and relaxing pace. At last, the endorphins seem to roar from the brain to the toes like a glass of sparkling wine. The feeling is almost euphoric. We weave our way through the small islets, admiring the rocks carved out by the ice age. The smooth rocks of the rolling beaches are covered with different coloured lichen. Soaring overhead are many types of seagull and circling in the reeds are water birds of the Antitdae variety, which urban dwellers might just refer to as ducks. Sometimes seals have also been spotted here. We go beyond the shallows and squeeze through the narrow straits. Suddenly, something brushes the base under the back of the kayak. The last time I was this shocked was when I touched an electric fence. This time it was just a rock close to the surface of the water. But when something touches your bum in the middle of the sea, it’s easy to overreact. TIP! Polaroid sunglasses help you see better through the water.

THE DARKENING ARCHIPELAGO E V E N I N G S A R E D I F F I C U LT TO DESCRIBE IN AFEW SIMPLE WORDS. AS A PHENOMENON, IT’S IN THE SAME E N C H A N T I N G C AT E G O RY A S T H E N O R T H E R N LIGHTS, THE SUMMER SOLSTICE OR THE C H A N G I N G O F T H E A U T U M N L E AV E S .

Excitement and adrenaline After the straits is just open sea. From the surface of the ADMIRE THE water the horizon disappears from time to time behind the ARCHIPELAGO FROM waves. The narrow straits were calm but now there are waves LAND before us. A small burst of adrenaline flows through the About an hour’s drive from Turbody and sharpens the senses. The guide points out with his ku are the Kemito Islands, where wooden paddle an island looming on the horizon: you’ll discover famous sights like “That’s where we’re going. The crossing here is a little rough, the Bengtskär Lighthouse, the Örö Island Fortress, Taalintedaas where the waves are strong, but you can all do it.” ironworks village, Högsåra, The encouragement brings some energy but also the body Söderlångvik Manor as well as is driven a little by excitement. There is a water bottle sethe archipelago villages of Rosacured to the side of the kayak. Everybody takes a swallow. la and Hiittinen. We begin to paddle against the oncoming waves. Under Located closer to Turku is Pargas, which has styled itself as a the right elbow is a lever that controls the rudder at the slice of paradise. The archipelaback. When heading straight the rudder should be up. Due go city nowadays includes Houtto the centre of gravity and the wind (you’ll need to ask a skär, Iniö, Korpo, Nagu as well as professional exactly why) the kayak turns automatically toPargas itself. Both Kemito and Pargas have an abundance of wards the waves. When paddling side on to the waves, you’re nature trails, quaint little restauadvised to keep the rudder down. However, if you want to rants and plenty of other worthexperiment and are enthusiastic to play with the rudder to while things to do. Both receive test the power of the waves, the rudder might get stuck in strong visitor recommendations. the upright position making the return journey a lot harder. Over halfway across we begin to paddle with a tail wind. For about twenty minutes the guide explains about the Norwegian Sea and how kayaks can even surf on large waves. Well then, let’s give it a try. With a couple of quick paddles the kayak rushes on the surf quite easily for a couple of seconds. However, greed deceives even the wise man. Again from the same place to the right butt-cheek, water comes pouring in, this time several litres. Worryingly, this capsized the fragile confidence of a novice canoeist, right in the middle of a shipping lane! TIP! Don’t struggle with the rudder in vain and recognise your level of skill.

Insta-sexy landscapes and other unforgettable sights Eventually we arrive on the Island of Högland in the Archipelago Sea National Park. On the left edge of the cove is an outcrop, with sheep roaming the brush. “Pick up speed and just before the beach lean back and let the kayak slide up the sand,” instructs the guide. The grazing sheep critique our performance. For now, the canoeing is over. The archipelago is a magical place. Everything looks, feels, tastes and smells somewhat divine, even our supper – salmon sandwiches for the mouth, sunset for the eyes and silence for the ears, broken only occasionally by the quacking of ducks. Marks out of ten – ten plus one. When the darkness arrives, it’s really dark. The urban light of the city doesn’t reach here, so the stars and planets are clearly traced with a finger. The Milky Way is easily stored on the camera. The warm sleeping bag is comfortable to sleep in, whilst the gentle lapping of the waves only serves to compliment the silent beauty.

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

ROUTES OCCASIONALLY TOUCH THE WATER’S EDGE.

HÖGLAND IS THE HIGHEST ISLAND IN THE ARCHIPELAGO S E A . T H E N AT I O N A L PA R K ISLAND IS WORTHWHILE S E E I N G 24 H O U R S O F T H E D AY, E S P E C I A L LY M O R N I N G A N D EVENING.

THE ARCHIPELAGO TRAIL

COASTAL ROUTE

The Archipelago Trail is the official tourist route, which you can travel either by bicycle, scooter, by car or by walking. There are two different lengths to choose from. You’ll find many sights along the way and of course plenty of authentic archipelago atmosphere. There are scattered beaches, wooden saunas, bridges, ferryboats and archipelago bread. There are places to sleep and eat open throughout the year. The Archipelago Trail is perhaps the easiest way to explore the archipelago if you don’t have a boat. If you’re in the mood, you can easily cycle all the way to Åland.

The Coastal Route is a new bicycle route, which passes through the national parks of the Archipelago Sea, Teijo as well as Ekenäs. The route targets a number of must-see places along the way, such as Bengtskär Lighthouse Island, Högsåra, Rosala and Örö as well as the idyllic ironworks villages of Taalintehdas, Mathildedal and Kirjakkala. If you don’t own your own bike, you can rent one along the journey. You can take a bike from one location and return it to another. You can come by car and then just pick up a bike to ride in the area you want. The route is about 150 km long, 35 km of which is by ferry.

Saariston Rengastie ~ 250 km Turku–Parainen–Nauvo–Korppoo–Houtskari–Iniö–Kustavi–Taivassalo–Askainen–Merimasku–Naantali–Turku Pieni Rengastie ~ 100 km Turku–Parainen–Nauvo–Seili–Hanka–Rymättylä–Naantali–Turku

Familiarise yourself more at: www.rannikkoreitti.fi

▼ MARIEHAMN

▼ OLD RAUMA

At the same time another Mariehamn

Åland are islands for happiness, where the sea is never far away. The capital Mariehamn is a mini-metropolis of 12,000 inhabitants, with top history sites and good services. And then there is the food culture that really flourishing. The proof of this is found at Smakby just outside Mariehamn.

Naantali ▼ KULTARANTA IN NAANTALI

Just a moment from Turku and you’re in Naantali. A convenience given a day here flies by admiring the wooden town of Naantali, the marina’s many sailing masts and the park of the Convent Church. In Naantali, you’ll also find the President’s summer residence Kultaranta, with its guided garden tour, not to mention those cuddly pillars of children’s culture – the Moomins.

Rauma

Rauma is a city full of history and maritime culture. A sailor’s dream, it boasts two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The first, Old Rauma, is the largest and best-preserved area of wooden homes in the Nordic region. The other, Sammallahdenmäki, is a bronze age burial site located 20 kilometres from the city centre.

Uusikaupunki

In Uusikaupunki, the sea is gently embraced through the Kaupunginlahti bay. The boulevard’s charming 19th Century warehouses, which once held salt, now store the sweet delights of restaurant terraces. In addition to the area of charming wooden homes, you’ll find much more, such as the wonderful imagination of artist Alvar Gullichsen at the Bonk Museum.

▼ UUSIKAUPUNKI

text LIINA KOMI, JEMINA SORMUNEN, JUUSO SUOMINEN, STINA FRIMODIG and ANNINA RANIMO photos JEMINA SORMUNEN, SENNI UUSIKARTANO, KIM ALLEN-MERSH and JULIA LEHTILÄ

If we’re being honest, some of the best stuff in the universe falls a little outside of Turku, like in Rauma, Uusikaupunki, Naantali and Åland. Discover these and much more at: kissmyturku.fi

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

THE GREAT

Spa Test INTERETED IN A WEEK’S GETAWAY OR WOULD RATHER SOME EVERYDAY EVENING ESCAPISM? A PREFERENCE FOR PIZZA OR A PENCHANT FOR FINE DINING? LOOKING FOR THE NICEST FACE PACKS OR SEARCHING FOR THE BEST BUBBLES? DON’T GET PARALYSED BY INDECISION OR HAVE A COLD SWEAT WHEN CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPA – THE GREAT SPA TEST WILL GUIDE YOU STEP BY STEP.

START THE SPA TEST HERE. Oh, it’s not for you? Well then, if you’d prefer a miserable spa experience, Turku is definitely the wrong place. Everything here is charming .

Hey dreamer – welcome to

Holiday Club Caribia.

Whether you’re interested in fun for a night or the whole weekend, head for the hideaway tucked in behind Turku’s student village and the Helsinki highway.

The perfect spa experience? Where everyday is unforgettable. YES

Hey come on! Of course everyone enjoys great food. Now go back and continue the test!

From the Harmony Spa wellness department, it’s handy to step outside and head straight for pizza or a glass of champagne. Perhaps play a few lively rounds of miniature golf, or just relax in the steam sauna, that’s just ne too.

Try this next one. Do you enjoy pampering and amazingly delicious food?

Uh oh – are you out of the loop? Go back and answer, “Yes”, even if you don’t like smoked fish. We’ll explain later.

YES

Why go to the Caribbean, when you can go to Caribia.

Oh dear, we’re not very good at designing these tests. This doesn’t provide alternatives either. Let’s try to be more specific.

NO Do you want to taste fish locally raised and smoked, which you can even take home with you? YES

Right then, this is the place! This is the top choice for boaters and caravaners

Kasnäs

text LAURA ANDERSSON photo MATIAS TANNER

Delight in the bubbles and waterslides of the pools, whilst in the warm outdoor pool watch the world from a safe distance.

Oh no! Unfortunately we need a little more information – splendour, experiences and unforgettable moments are just part of the amazing deals for every spa in this test.

– guest marina, caravan park and spa in the same package, wrapped up in the arms of the archipelago. The distinctive maritime atmosphere beckons you to stay awhile, and why not – from the seascape views from your own room to languishing in a steam sauna, everything is pretty amazing. Whether you’re a local or just moving from car to boat, Kasnäs is a worthwhile experience. Oh, and the explanation we promised – eating fish is by no means mandatory. Sometimes these tests are a bit tricky.

YES

Are you travelling by boat (or perhaps in a motorhome)?

Don’t worry it’s not an emergency. Have you always wanted to go to a place called Armon Valley, where the sun always shines? Perhaps you could get to know the city’s spa culture, in a place where spa activities have been a feature since the start of the 1700’s? NO

YES NO

YES

Is an oasis on the edge of Turku just lovely, the type for everyday evenings? With champagne on Tuesdays, if we’re going to let ourselves dream.

Hey – super choice. If it's worked for over 300 years, chances are it’s got to be pretty good. Introducing:

Naantali Spa.

Well then, doubting Tuomas. Time to pull out the final magic card from our sleeve, in the form of an island paradise. Sit down and fall in love with

Unfortunately, here those lookingfor champagne are sure to find it – as well as magnificent views of the sea, a tranquil pool department, massage therapies, rose-scented baths and breakfast in bed.

Whether you want to go on holiday or have an inspiring meeting, Ruissalo Spa is the ideal choice. Enjoy an evening strolling along the shaded oak forest road, admiring the 19th Century lace villas, as well as an even longer morning in one of the spa’s newly renovated rooms.

With food to suit every taste, from Scandinavian to Thai. After some indulgent dining, take a stroll in the magnificent surroundings, or borrow a pair of skates and go see what the archipelago has to offer.

Ruissalo Spa.

And so, whilst gazing onto the Airisto Sea from the spa pools, you can realise for yourself, just how perfect a spa holiday can be.

The 300 years of training hasn’t been lost.

holidayclubresorts.com/en/resorts/caribia/ | kasnas.com | naantalispa.fi | ruissalospa.fi

SUPER FUN FOR THE

LITTLE ONES! ARE YOU SMALL? HAVE YOU GOT KIDS OR DO YOU KNOW SOMEONE PLAYFUL? QUICKLY, COME TO TURKU THEN! CREATE SOME CLASSIC PAPER DOLLS AND DRESS THEM UP FOR THESE FANTASTIC DAY TRIPS. GIVE IT A TRY AND VISIT ALL THE PLACES YOURSELF – YOU’LL FIND MORE FUN IDEAS AT KISSMYTURKU.FI!

text LIINA KOMI illustrations TIIA IKOLA

GIVE US NAMES!

NAANTALI’S MOOMINWORLD IS AN ODE TO THE ARCHIPELAGO AND A TRIBUTE TO TOVE JANSSON’S IMAGINATION . — KISS MY T URKU 2019

LET’S SWIM! JUKUPARK IS AN ENORMOUS AND SPECTACULAR WATERPARK.

WHAT? UP THERE!

IN FLOWPARK YOU’LL FIND ROPE TRAILS IN THE TREES. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS WHY THE

ADVENTURE PARK IS POPULAR. FREE ADMISSION!

VEPSÄ , WELL – WHAT CAN WE SAY? – THE CITY OF TURKU’S ISLAND OF FUN. TAKE THE WATERBUS AND PICNIC WITH YOU!

text ILONA KANGAS photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH

A U T H O R J A R I S A LO N E N WA L K E D UP THE HILL OF KERTTULINMÄKI. FOUND THERE IS THE MEMORIAL TO T H E H I R S I P U U M Ä K I S I T E O F E X E C U T I O N D E S I G N E D BY E S KO H I L L I L Ä .

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

Notorious hills TURKU’S SEVEN HILLLS ARE FINLAND’S BEST VANTAGE POINTS FOR VIEWS OF THE HISTORIC AND BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES OF THE RIVER AURA. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ALSO ASSOCIATED WITH FASCINATING AND MACABRE STORIES, WHICH WE EXPLORE ALONGSIDE TURKU’S CRIME NOVELIST, JARI SALONEN.

ulinmäki an d th mmit of Kertt u s em he t d e mo ar w L L, S L E N D E R M A N S ria l a o A t T y l t TRIDES ligh E waitin H T g there. He is Turku detective novelist, Jari Salonen, with whom we are searching for clues in the hills of Turku, why for time immemorial people have found fascination in crime. On a September evening, Kerttulinmäki is a peaceful residential area. Close by is the beautiful old Kerttulin School, in which former president Mauno Koivisto studied. At the end of a nearby apartment building there is a mural depicting the urban environment. The surrounding buildings are well maintained. Below the memorial are grow boxes, in which locals living close by grow vegetables. You might also see flowers grown there. At night, the silhouette of the nearby cathedral is visible from atop the hill. This area is very different from how it was hundreds of years ago. From medieval times to the 1700’s, Kerttulinmäki was known as Hirttomäki (‘Lynch Hill’). Criminals were executed and the bodies were left to hang as a warning to others, such as those travelling from along the Häme Härkätie road. Our fascination with crime and criminals is the same now as it was then. We ask author why he thinks that is? “Detective stories are like a puzzle, plot construction is fascinating, much background work is needed and the characters must be believable. When all this comes together, crime novels are engrossing,” says Salonen, continuing: “Through books, it’s easy to approach safely our fears, dangers and even death, whilst at home, on our sunny travels or in the hammock at a cottage.

TURKU'S SEVEN HILLS

Puolalanmäki

Aninkaistenmäki

Kakolanmäki Yliopistonmäki

Samppalinnanmäki

Vartiovuori Kerttulinmäki

Fascination is strengthened by familiarity and repetition. When you discover a great character, you can easily spend time with them across a series of books.” Of his own main character, Jukka Zetterman, Salonen has a clear opinion: “Sure, he resembles me, a retired man who likes Finnish music, who is a little bit introverted.” Salonen’s fourth Zetterman detective book, Ontuva mies (The Hobbled Man), will be published in February 2019.

The plot thickens as we walk During the conversation, the secret of Salonen’s fast walking pace becomes clear. When planning a book he estimates that he will easily walk about 250 kilometres. The rhythm of walking helps to weave the plot. During writing, he often sits at his home on another of Turku’s seven hills, on Aninkaistenmäki. Other shocking events find their origins there. The nearby street of Maariankatu,was the epicentre of the Great Fire of Turku in 1827. Salonen has been writing his whole life, but an author for just a short while. “I was only able to call myself an author when I had published three books,” he asserts. His books are Kuokkavieraat (The Unexpected Guest, 2016), Jahti (Manhunt, 2017) and Kätkö (The Hoard, 2018). Salonen has lived in Turku for decades. The Market Square has an important role in his books. “Often with my wife we visit there for morning coffee. We’ve become familiar with local entrepreneurs and other regulars.”

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

The author constantly gathers material from around him and the most memorable events and expressions come to life in his books. For example, a cursing café customer, Salonen’s Turku-Italian barber, a doctor living downstairs and a local goldsmith, have all left their mark in the novels. “Of course, I’m not writing specifically about anyone, but I think the characters come alive through the things I hear. A lot of background work is required because the details must be right.” When reading Salonen’s books you can be sure no factual errors are found. It is a point of honour to be correct

Inside the rock We are on our third hill, which needs no introductions. It is Kakolanmäki. An ideal place to reflect on why Salonen chose to write crime literature. “I liked detective novels. As an author, I don’t feel I have the need to tell some ‘great’ story. I prefer to build a complete and intriguing plot, which the reader is interested to follow. Another Turku-based detective novelist, Reijo Mäki, likens his own novels to adult fairy tales. I think along the same lines,” says Jari Salonen. It’s in these areas where you are reminded of many stories only suitable for adults: Matti Haapoja, the mass-murderer of Malmelin, Count Lindgren, Auervaara, Jammu Siltavuori, Volvo-Markkanen, Juha Valjakkala... decades of

FINNISH PRISON LINGO BAGELSSI prison sentence HIVAKKA a package smuggled into prison in the rectum KAKOLAN RUUNA old prisoner, long-term inmate, repeat offender MUULI a drug courier who smuggles drugs into jail RUNDI solitary confinement

K A KO L A WA S D E S I G N E D AT T H E E N D O F T H E 183 0’ S F O R R E H A B I L I TAT I O N O F THE DESTITUTE, PROVIDING PERSONNEL FOR CONSTRUCTION SITES FOR EXAMPLE.

T H E R E ’ S LOT S O F S P E C U L AT I O N R E G A R D I N G T H E K A KO L A N A M E . M A N Y B E L I E V E T H E N A M E R E L AT E S TO T H E M E N TA L LY I L L W H O O N C E R E S I D E D T H E R E . IN THE DIALECT OF THE SOUTHWEST REGION ‘ K A KO ’ M E A N S A T R O U B L E D M I N D .

tabloid headlines flitter across the eyes. We’ve come inside the renovated former regional prison. Within the area’s hierarchy, the prison was relatively easy, with many prisoners themselves named it “full of innocence”: first offenders, financial crimes, short convictions and prisoners on remand. (Rauno Lahtinen and Anu Salminen; Kakola – The Story of a Prison.) Inside, however, it is stifling, distressing and grim. In the memoirs of Volvo-Markkanen, it is easy to relate when he writes the words: “At the front opens a wide corridor, with long rows of cells on three floors. God help me that was a ghastly place. A hell on Earth. It was sure to say that this held prisoners at the peak of their career. Everywhere was quiet. You couldn’t continue down any corridors as all doors were closed. Still I could sense the hopelessly bleak atmosphere.” Few Turku locals have visited the hill, even though the prison shut down in 2007. Jari Salonen admits to being a first-timer. Kakola is now described in totally new ways. There is a small coffee roastery, a microbrewery, a restaurant, a café and a frenetic housing development. The former prison buildings will become a residential area in the coming years, where a funicular will elevate it’s way from the Aura riverside, providing visitors with magnificent views.

TORPEDO a prisoner, who can be ordered to collect debts with violence or take out revenge VENKULA multiple offender (Kakola – The Story of a Prison, Lahtinen & Salminen)

We tour with the crime author the prison, which is still a few years from becoming a hotel. The creepy isolation cells and the chapel are kept in their original conditions. The main prison buildings of Kakola have been mainly renovated for apartments. The third prison on the hill, the prison mental hospital, is being renovated as a hotel apartment complex. The walls and doors of the cells are covered with wisdoms of life or the objects of yearning. "Free and unrestricted sex services", "A life sentence is enough", "Turku is the land of Smurffs". Many on the insides of these walls, were literally and figuratively naked. The outer door and the world behind seem very distant. ZETTERMAN HAS NOT BEEN FORCED in the stories to face the most appalling opponents possible. Salonen’s books do not indulge in violence, sex, horror or evil. The characters are comfortable; the criminals are human. It has become a habit for Jari Salonen to write his notes at flea markets, whilst his wife eagerly searches for old dishes. Maybe the humanity in the characters arise whilst there? “It’s fun to write about criminals who have slightly eccentric characters. Then you can freely develop the ways that the criminal justifies their actions to themselves. They must not be too strange, but not too wholesome either.” HEAD TO THE HILLS FOR A WORKOUT! Download the Nomadi mobile app or pick up the Cultural Fitness Route Map from Turku’s main library or tourist information office. On the walking routes you can see the hills of Turku. The longest route is 11 kilometres with 1 256 steps along the way. Read more at: turku.fi/kulttuurikuntoilu

▼ WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM

The museums on offer in Turku continue to dazzle time after time. Turku accommodates several museums, so it is little wonder why.

11X

▼ FORUM MARINUM

Superb museums

Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova is a museum of history and contemporary art, where you can explore both the original ruins of medieval Turku as well as the world of contemporary art. Also, M Kitchen & Café and the excellent museum shop are under the same roof. Itäinen Rantakatu 4–6

Pharmacy Museum & Qwensel House

▼ PHARMACY MUSEUM

Gentry life is presented through the story of Qwensel house extending back to the 1600’s, whilst the Pharmacy Museum introduces you to the history of pharmacy. Take a break in the museum’s quaint Café Qwensel. Läntinen Rantakatu 13

Ett Hem

Ett Hem is the former bourgeoisie home of Turku businessmen Alfred Jacobson and his wife Hélène, which has been opened for the public to admire. The charming private museum is decorated with art and furniture from the turn of the 20th Century. Piispankatu 14

Forum Marinum

▼ TURKU CATHEDRAL

texts JEMINA SORMUNEN and JULIA LEHTILÄ photos JULIA LEHTILÄ and PATRICK SELIN

▼ ABOA VETUS & ARS NOVA

Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova

The Maritime Centre Forum Marinum will introduce you to both Naval history and the history of shipbuilding. As a bonus there are elegant museum ships, complemented also by smaller, more specialised vessels. Linnankatu 72

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

▲ ETT HEM

Kylämäki Village

Kylämäki Village is an authentic 1950’s four-building farm, which has been inhabited since the Iron Age. The fascinating courtyard invites you to take a journey in time, where you can get to know about life on a farm in the 1950’s. Jaanintie 45

▲ LUOSTARINMÄKI

Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum Spared from the ravages of the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, the wooden homes of Luostarinmäki preserve a small piece of history in the centre of Turku. The original buildings are decorated homes as well as workshops, which present the artisan life from the 18th and 19th Centuries. Vartiovuorenkatu 2

Sibelius Museum

▲ TURKU ART MUSEUM

The Sibelius Museum is a fascinating opportunity to explore the life and works of the beloved composer. In addition, in Finland’s largest museum of music there are exhibitions presenting different instrument groups and the history of music appreciation, among others. Piispankatu 17

Turku Castle

▲ TURKU CASTLE

Everyone thinks they know Turku Castle, but there is still so much to discover. The over 700-year-old castle conceals inside a vast array of engrossing stories and history. On the guided tour, inquire about the castle’s disappearing elf. Linnankatu 80

Turku Art Museum

▲ KYLÄMÄKI VILLAGE

On the hill of Puolalanmäki the impressive sight of the Turku Art Museum building looms over the city. Contained within are national treasures of great significance as well as treats of contemporary art – everything about the museum evokes breath-taking admiration. Aurakatu 26

Turku Cathedral

Turku Cathedral holds a valuable position. It is the oldest building in Finland as well as an intensive compilation of Turku’s history. And in addition to this, it is also Finland’s National Shrine and a vibrant functioning home of the Lord! Tuomiokirkonkatu 1

▲ SIBELIUS MUSEUM

Wäinö Aaltonen Museum

Wäinö Aaltonen Museum is quite literally made for art, as the artist himself participated in the design of the museum building. Inside you can see works from Aaltonen’s basic collection of donated works as well as temporary contemporary art exhibitions. Itäinen Rantakatu 38

Around the Archipelago Sea in 11 hours

Text LIINA KOMI photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH and JEMINA SORMUNEN in cooperation with TALLINK SILJA - silja.fi

CANOEING, WHAT A LOVELY WAY TO MOVE THROUGH THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL ARCHIPELAGO. YEAHYEAH. FROM THE DECK OF THE LARGE CRUISE SHIPS THE ARCHIPELAGO SUMMER OPENS OUT IN FRONT OF YOU, WITH THE TRIP POSSIBLE EVEN IN HIGH HEELS.

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

IF YOU’RE REALLY NOT KEEN ON CANOEING, choose the other extreme. Silja’s 11-hour archipelago cruise departs from the Port of Turku at 8.15am in the morning, and returns to the same place at 7.15pm. In Mariehamn you change boats, switching from the Galaxy to the Baltic Princess. A convenient connecting bridge means there’s no need to set foot on land. Suitable for most, the 11-hour cruise glides through Turku's Archipelago, which the locals claim to be the best in the world. If you don’t believe them, then head out on deck. The scale of the archipelago, with its tens of thousands of islands can be better understood from a ship’s deck the height of an apartment building, than from a paddle boat. The shipping channel, which at sea level appears so wide, looks more like a sloping track zigzagging its was between the islands. From the deck of a large cruise ship is a prime place to spot the characteristics of the archipelago. Right next to the Port of Turku is Ruissalo, on the beaches of which you can identify the wooden lace villas from the Tsarist period. Many are now owned by different clubs and associations but also some of the Turku gentry live there too. Some them might bestow a civilized wave of a lace handkerchief as you pass by. On a return trip aboard the Baltic Princess you can wave to Ruisrock during three evenings in summer, as you pass very close by. Or instead, go to Ruisrock and wave back at the ships. It’s an unforgettable sight whatever you choose. BETWEEN TURKU AND MARIEHAMN the cruise ship passes many fascinating and inspiring archipelago destinations, and in summer 2019 Silja takes the experience to the next level. Aboard Galaxy, explore three – BRAND NEW! – routes, by seeing the places along the way through virtual reality. The Island of Seili. Over the centuries, the beautiful Island of Seili has been an arena for the deportation of the leprous and "insane",

W H AT A B O U T F O O D ? O N T H E C R U I S E YO U E AT WELL. HOW ABOUT AN ARCHIPELAGO BRUNCH O R S I L J A’ S S H E L L F I S H SHOWPIECE?

and as such is full of horrible stories. Explore the history of Seili through this new virtual tour. The Wreck of Vrouw Maria. In 1771, the legendary treasure ship sank in the outer archipelago of Nagu, but was discovered in 1999. Through the VR-glasses you can dive to the depths of the wreck. Lågskäri Lighhouse. This historic bird and lighthouse island is located about 20 kilometres south of Mariehamn. The virtual tour of the old lighthouse offers divine views of the archipelago.

40,000 ISLANDS AS WELL AS HEAVEN The Archipelago Sea is a region of the Baltic Sea, which borders Turku to the east, Åland to the west, Bengskär lighthouse to the south and the Gulf of Bothnia in the north. The Archipelago Sea has about 40,000 islands and islets, making it the most prolific in the world. To locals and sailors the area is often simply referred to as the Turku Archipelago. Although Turku is a world-renowned nature destination, it has been relatively spared the ravages of mass tourism, such as overcrowding, refuse and marginalised authenticity. From the deck of the cruise ship you can spot, for example, Sea Eagles, which were endangered as little as a decade ago. Now there are hundreds of Sea Eagles in the Archipelago Sea.

Enchanting excursions Maximise your Turku experience and get the most out of the city on a guided tour. The time will be much more enjoyable when everything is planned for you. Check out all the tours on offer at www.visitturku.fi

Themed Walking Tours Want to get to know Turku on foot? Why, yes thanks! The family of Walk-tours offer the opportunity to experience Turku from many different perspectives. Choose the theme that interests you, get walking and expand your understanding of Turku. It’s a pretty nice concept, that’s perfect for locals as well as tourists. The Riverside Walk, for example, is a handy way to explore Turku throughout its history to its present day. During the walking tour along the River Aura there’s a focus on urban art, historic

buildings and sites of cultural significance, to name but a few. It’s like being in an outdoor museum. Or would you prefer to dig to darker depths? The Mysterious Turku tour opens up a world of mysterious stories and places across the city. Endure chilling ghosts and crimes, which originated along the River Aura, and discover if there really is a secret observatory in Turku. Exciting! ▶ Follow your feet and explore the themed Walk-tours at: visitturku.fi

HEY THERE FOODIE, GRAB A FOOD WALK CARD!

It will guide you along the most delicious walking tour of Turku, where you can enjoy delectable flavours at the best restaurants in the city. To put it shortly – walk and eat.

M/S Rudolfina

When the centre is crowded, head out on the water. M/S Rudolfina cruises from Turku every day to the sea and in the evenings to Naantali – the perfect little getaway. Why not enjoy the bountiful buffet and the fresh sea air, whilst gently cruising past the lace villas of Ruissalo and the shores of Kultaranta. A real zenlike experience for the body and mind.

Meyer Turku tours

Have you always wanted to see, how the world’s largest cruise ships are built? The Meyer Turku tour goes deep into the shipyard industry and the history of shipbuilding up to the present day. The tour begins at the Maritime Centre Forum Marinum, from where it continues to the Meyer Turku shipyard to observe the ships under construction.

Feed your interest and read more at ▶ visitturku.fi

— KISS MY T URKU 2019

Riverside Walk

History, architecture and art never cease to fascinate – and Turku has more than enough. Don’t wander alone unnecessarily around the environment, the Riverside Walk takes you straight into the lap of urban art and historic buildings. The walk is full of culture and magnificent scenery, and of course the oh-so-wonderful shores of the River Aura.

VISIT TURKU

Tourist Information Office Aurakatu 2, 20100 Turku Tel: +358 (0)2 2627 444 info@visitturku.fi www.visitturku.fi visitturku.tv

Open

Mon-Fri 8.30am–6pm Sat-Sun 9–16 (1 Apr–30 Sep) Sat-Sun 10am–3pm (1 Oct–31 Mar)

Buy hotel and other travel packages online at: www.visitturku.fi/verkkokauppa

photo JENNI VIRTA

Romance is ours. With love from Turku

TURKU ROMANCE 1820–1827 AND ALWAYS.