Michigan Uncorked Winter 2023 by userg123

michigan Uncorked VOL. 5 NO. 4 WINTER 2023

• PETITE PEARL • RIVER RAISIN AVA • WHY CIDER MAKES SENSE • THE OTHER U of M FIGHTING THE COLD • SW MICH IN THE SPOTLIGHT LIQUID GOLD

CONTENTS

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4 PETITE PEARL Petite Pearl is a cool-climate Minnesota hybrid that has been getting attention and winning awards in Michigan and other states.

7 RIVER RAISIN AVA 4

The newly formed River Raisin Wine Trail in Lenawee County has begun the process of seeking approval to become an American Viticultural Area (AVA).

10 CIDER & WINE Learn about the history and the connection between cider and wine in Michigan.

14 THE OTHER U of M The University of Minnesota (UMN) has helped Michigan wine grape growers by developing cold-hardy hybrids and sharing research.

17 FIGHTING THE COLD Winegrowers share some common sense and high-tech tips for amateurs and professionals alike.

20 SW MICHIGAN GETS GOOD According to national media, southwest Michigan has a serious wine scene that has been quietly earning its reputation.

23 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

LIQUID GOLD Michigan ice wines earn mad respect. Read this special report online at https://www.jimrink.com/Ice%20Wine.pdf

Cover: Photo of Jessica Youngblood courtesy of Jessica Youngblood

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized. – André Simon

his quote is so true, especially because wine rstly and immediately requires our attention. It is nuanced, inspires discussion, involves all the senses. It can elevate our mood and our openness to all possibilities. In this issue of MU we have some winter weather-related articles and will de nitely need a glass of wine and, perhaps, a nice re.*

Jessica Zimmer provides an in-depth look into Petite Pearl, a Minnesota cold-hardy hybrid that has been getting attention and winning awards in Michigan. Also, don’t miss out on Cortney Casey’s article, focusing on the River Raisin Wine Trail in Lenawee County, which is in the process of applying for certi cation as an American Viticultural Area (A VA). Jessica does double and triple duty in this issue with articles on Michigan’s cider industry, showing how cider producers and winemakers collaborate. She also wrote a piece on the University of Minnesota’s important role in developing unique cold-hardy hybrids and sharing research bene cial to Michigan winegrowers. Jessica also provides a “Wine 101” article on tips and tricks for cool-climate winegrowers. Miranda Franco joins us courtesy of winereviewonline.com, where she posted a glowing review of the southwest Michigan wine industry, which has, she says, “a serious wine scene that has been quietly earning its reputation.” And, as always, our in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for select Michigan wines. Hold the presses, we have a late addition, Liquid Gold, by Emily Dockery, which examines some Michigan ice wines which have achieved well-earned attention. Cheers,

*If you don’t have a real replace, streaming services provide great fake res for TV

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Cortney Casey, Emily Dockery, Miranda Franco, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, and Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked

Vol. 5 No.4 Winter 2023

Copyright © 2023 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink 20020 Maple St.,Lake Ann MI 49650, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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Drew Horton, enology specialist, University of Minnesota

PETITE PEARL — A MICHIGAN GEM by Jessica Zimmer

ore than 200,000 Petite Pearl vines have been planted in the U.S. and Canada, across 26 states and three by Jessica Zimmer provinces, indicating the variety is a commercial and horticultural success. In Michigan, Petite Pearl, a cold-hardy red wine grape, is grown around the state, including at Crooked Vine Vineyard & Winery in Alanson, Mackinaw Trail Winery in Petoskey, St. Julian Winery & Distillery in Paw Paw, Stoney Ridge Vineyards in Kent City, and Youngblood Vineyard in Ray. Petite Pearl typically o ers the avors of cherry, chocolate, plum, and blueberry, sometimes with notes of anise, mint, and “forest oor.” The grape makes a high quality wine on its own, and can be blended with many other red wines, including Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin, Chancellor, deChaunac, Marquette, Merlot, Noiret, and Rougeon. Petite Pearl gained more recognition in Michigan when St. Julian Winery & Distillery earned gold medals in the 2023 Michigan Governor’s Cup for best hybrid red wine and top ve red wine. These medals were for the Braganini Reserve 2020 Petite Pearl. St. Julian also earned a gold medal for red hybrid blend for the 2021 Winemaker Series

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Limited Edition Petite Pearl/Marquette Red Blend. Other Petite Pearl wines that medaled in the 2023 competition included Stoney Ridge Vineyards’ 2020 Petite Pearl and Crooked Vine Vineyard’s 2020 Petite Pearl G&G Reserve, both of which earned a silver medal for other red hybrid, and Stoney Ridge Vineyards’ 2019 Frick & Frack Estate Red Blend, which earned a silver medal for red hybrid blend. Petite Pearl’s history goes back more than two decades. Grape breeder Tom Plocher began evaluating hybrid grapes in 1986. “I grew over 200 varieties of grapes from the U.S. and France before I got a good handle on how to breed for a good balance between acidity, tannin, and alcohol. I wanted the wine to contain at least a moderate amount of extractable tannin and also have moderate acidity. I didn’t want the wine to be high sugar and high alcohol,” said Plocher, who owns Plocher Vines in Hugo, Minnesota. The sister seedling of Petite Pearl is Crimson Pearl, meaning that the two varieties are progeny of the same two grape parents. “The ‘pollen parent’ of Petite Pearl, E.S. 4-7-26, came from Wisconsin breeder Elmer Swenson’s plants. It had late bud break and good resistance to mildew, especially powdery mildew. It also had produced wines with some nice tannins and moderate acidity,” said Plocher. E.S. 4-7-26 was a good parent for wine quality, but not hardy enough for the coldest Minnesota winters. That is why Plocher sought another variety for a parent, one that could withstand temperatures below -40° F. Plocher selected MN 1094 from the University of Minnesota as the other parent. This variety had survived two -40° F winters in the early 1990s. Plocher also sought to create a vine that would be easy to manage, meaning it would not grow expansively so as to require much pruning. Further, he wanted the plant’s canopy, de ned as the parts of the vine that are visible above ground, to fall open naturally. This would expose the fruit to the sun. “In 2002, I selected Petite Pearl as the elite seedling. In 2010, I released Petite Pearl to vineyards for commercial growing. It’s been popular ever since,” said Plocher. Andrew Farmer, co-owner of Northeastern Vine Supply, in Pawlet, Vermont, opened his nursery in 2002. He has propagated Petite Pearl vines for Plocher since 2010. “It is an honor for us. Since Michigan is advanced in cold-hardy grape production, the state is a big part of my market,” said Farmer. According to Farmer, Petite Pearl grapes have thick skins, which give a cluster a lot of integrity. A grower typically gets 4 to 6 tons of grapes an acre. Dale Flanery, owner of Stoney Ridge Winery, currently uses Petite Pearl to make dry, semisweet red wines and a rosé.

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3.2 and Total Acidity (TA) of 8-9 g/L out of the vineyard. Our “Frick and Frack” is a 40 percent Petite Pearl and a 60 percent Marquette blend that my wife calls her ‘pizza wine,’ ” said Flanery. Petite Pearl is usually very fruit forward, creating jammy notes some years. “Sweet wines sell in our area. Going forward, we’re trying to add it into sweet wines. I love that it’s versatile, doesn’t mask any avors, and comes to the cellar the second to third week of October. That opens up tank space for us for earlier-ripening varieties,” said Flanery. Jessica Youngblood, co-owner of Youngblood Vineyard, has made a 2021 Petite Pearl, which is 75 percent Petite Pearl and 25 percent Marquette, a 2022 Petite Pearl, which is 100 percent Petite Pearl, and a 2021 Rosé of Petite Pearl, an o -dry rosé that is 100 percent Petite Pearl. “This is a lighter-bodied red grape that’s less heavy than Marquette. It tends to absorb other aromas, like oak,” said Youngblood. Youngblood likes to work with Petite Pearl because it does not vary much between seasons. In addition, the vine buds out late. “We've never had any frost damage in the years we've been growing it. I've made wine from our Petite Pearl every year since 2018, so we have six vintages just of that grape,” said Youngblood. Youngblood said she also likes that the clusters are shaped like the state of Michigan. In addition, the clusters have a bluish-violet color. This means 100 percent Petite Pearl wine will have a bluish hue. Youngblood harvests half of her Petite Pearl early for a rosé and half later for a red wine. “One of the things that’s di erent about Petite Pearl is to make a rosé, you press it like a white wine. It makes a beautiful pink color without needing to sit on its skins. We age the rosé in stainless steel,” said Youngblood. She suggests pairing wines that contain Petite Pearl with salmon, pasta with a white sauce, and rigatoni with spinach and Romesco sauce, a red sauce with roasted tomatoes and red peppers. Drew Horton, enology specialist at the University of Minnesota, said the e ort Plocher put into breeding Petite Pearl is evident in the “nice, soft, whole” quality of a 100 percent Petite Pearl wine. “The number one rule of winemaking is that wine is made in the vineyard rst. The key to wine quality is how well the grapes turn out,” said Horton. Petite Pearl does not require as many measures to control pests as some other grapes. A wine grower who does not experience a severe winter usually comes out with high quality Petite Pearl grapes. “This is one of the reasons so many growers plant Petite Pearl. It can, has, and will be made into everything from a varietal to a blend to a rosé, with the rosé being still, semi-sparkling, or sparkling,” said Horton.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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“It’s quite a versatile grape. It has a 23 to 24 percent Brix with a pH of

Cherry Creek Cellars in Brooklyn

A River Runs Through It — River Raisin Wine Trail Sets Sights on New AVA by Cortney Casey

rom the ashes of one wine trail, another has grown.

In April 2023, several members of the defunct Southeast Michigan Pioneer Wine Trail joined forces with Lenawee County o cials to establish the River Raisin Wine Trail. Beyond banding together for advertising and event purposes, the River Raisin wineries are now looking to make their mark on Michigan wine history by seeking a new American Viticultural Area (AVA) designation, with the River Raisin Watershed acting as the region’s boundary. AVAs are federally delineated grape-growing regions that boast distinct viticulture-a ecting characteristics — such as climate, terrain, etc. — that di erentiate it from surrounding regions. Michigan currently has ve AVAs, the most recent of which, the Tip of the Mitt AVA in the northern Lower Peninsula, received federal approval in 2016. As of October 2023, the group had compiled approximately 80 percent of the information needed to le with federal o cials, according to Justin Gi ord, executive director for Visit Lenawee. In their case for a new AVA, petitioners are focusing on the glacial deposits that settled in the region, its mineral composition, and the rich historical signi cance of grapes in the region, he says. Even the river’s name is tied to grape-growing: French explorers called it “La Riviere aux Raisins” — the river with grapes — as a nod to the wild grapes growing on the banks. “I would love to see the River Raisin Watershed recognized by the federal government as an American Viticultural Area,” says Lorenzo Lizarralde, Chateau Aeronautique’s owner and winemaker, who recently began planting his own estate vineyards in Onsted. “This would bolster Southeast Michigan’s pedigree while creating a buzz as ‘wine country,’ thereby drawing more visitors to the region,

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“First, we want people in the surrounding area to realize that they don’t have to travel to the west side of the state to visit wineries and nd some excellent wine,” says Bob Utter, owner of Flying Otter Winery in Adrian. “Second, we want people thinking about visiting Michigan to realize that we have vineyards and wineries in southeast Michigan, right here in Lenawee County.” As of October 2023, the River Raisin Wine Trail included Flying Otter, Cherry Creek Cellars in Brooklyn, Pentamere Winery in Tecumseh and Chateau Aeronautique Winery’s Onsted location. The Pioneer Wine Trail — which included several other wineries scattered as far out as Jackson and Haslett — disbanded amid the pandemic. Talks have swirled about establishing such a trail since Jack Townsley of Lenawee Now, the county’s economic development organization, pitched the idea in summer 2022, says Lizarralde. That idea led to the establishment of an industry-led collaborative aimed at promoting and supporting Lenawee-based wineries, says Utter. Justin Gi ord says it made sense for his agency to ultimately head up the project. “Throughout the process of conceptualizing, promoting and managing the trail, one recurring theme emerged: the necessity for a single entity to take ownership of the trail,” Gi ord explains. “This would ensure consistent branding and messaging. Given that our o ce is responsible for marketing our destination and showcasing the region’s exceptional quality of life to visitors across the Midwest, it only made sense for us to align the trail with our team.” Gi ord says the diversity of the wineries is what sets the River Raisin Wine Trail apart. Some are estate wineries — wineries utilizing grapes grown in their own vineyards — while others source fruit for their products. Some have a more rural air, while others are more urban.

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creating agri-tourism and providing thousands of good-paying jobs In the process.”

For instance: “Chateau Aeronautique boasts a concert venue that adds a touch of elegance to the wine tasting experience,” he says. “Cherry Creek Cellars is housed in a charming old schoolhouse, providing a nostalgic ambience. Flying Otter o ers an immersive experience within the vineyard itself, allowing visitors to truly connect with nature. Pentamere Winery o ers an urban tasting experience in the heart of historic downtown Tecumseh, providing a unique blend of history and modernity.” The common thread between the wineries “is their commitment to serving only locally produced products,” Gi ord explains. “This dedication ensures that visitors not only savor the nest avors, but also feel like part of our extended family.”

French explorers called it “La Riviere aux Raisins” — the river with grapes

Trail events in 2023 included two editions of “Fare and Pair,” a self-driving tour between the four member wineries, featuring food and wine pairings at each stop. Gi ord says new additions to the trail’s event calendar are on the way. Ed Gerten, operations manager at Pentamere Winery, says he would like to see the River Raisin Wine Trail continue to grow, both in scope and o erings. “We hope the wine trail will expand to include more Lenawee County wineries,” he says, “and have expanded events with other craft beverages from our region.” Gi ord also sees the trail as a way to bring more awareness to all of the unique experiences and attractions Lenawee County can provide. “We understand that many travelers seek out quaint, small towns and rural areas as a means to escape, unplug and recharge,” he says. “Our destination is perfectly suited for this purpose, o ering visitors the opportunity to indulge in shopping or enjoy live performances in our historic downtowns.”

For more information on the River Raisin Wine Trail, including an interactive map, visit RiverRaisinWineTrail.com.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Cortney Casey is a certi ed sommelier and co-founder of MichiganByTheBottle.com, a website and online community that promotes the entire Michigan wine industry. She’s also co-owner of Michigan By The Bottle Tasting Room, tasting rooms operated in partnership with multiple Michigan wineries, located in Shelby Township, Royal Oak and Auburn Hills. Contact her at cort@michiganbythebottle.com.

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WHY CIDER MAKES SENSE

BY JESSICA ZIMMER

n Michigan, cider makers and winemakers have been talking for decades. Both industries date

back more than a hundred years, with Michigan being America’s third largest producer of apples and eighth largest producer of wine grapes. Recent partnerships have resulted in collaboration between professionals from both industries. It can be di cult to distinguish who concentrates on which beverage. Michigan’s license for a cidery is called a Small Wine Maker license. Some businesses make both cider and wine, said Dr. Nikki Rothwell, co-founder of Tandem Ciders in Suttons Bay. Rothwell is also the coordinator of the Northwest Michigan Horticultural Research Center for Michigan State University.

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The primary di erence in production between the two beverages is apples tend to contain less sugar than grapes. This means cider can be produced in as little as two weeks, even though most cideries age ciders over six months. In contrast, white wines take at least six months to mature. Red wines take between six months to several years. Also, federal law de nes wine as being between 7 and 24 percent Alcohol By Volume (ABV). Hard cider ranges between 1 and 8.5 percent ABV. “A high ABV masks mistakes. This means quality ciders should be really clean, without any faults,” said Rothwell. Tandem only makes ciders. Rothwell’s husband, Dan Young, is the cider maker. He has noticed that just as with wine, customers start out interested in sweet varieties and gradually move to semi-dry and dry beverages. Young typically uses Michigan-grown “dessert fruit” to make ciders, including McIntosh apples for Tandem’s “Smackintosh” cider and Rhode Island Greening apples for “Green Man” cider. “We buy apples grown in some of the same areas that produce wine grapes, including Old Mission Peninsula and Lake Leelanau. This puts us in contact with wine grape growers,” said Rothwell. Connections between businesses abound A number of Michigan wineries buy apple juice from Tandem, including Mawby Vineyards & Winery in Suttons Bay. Mawby also buys apple juice from Left Foot Charley in Traverse City. “It helps to have cideries press the apples and share their knowledge about di erent varieties. That gives us the freedom to experiment with what’s trending,” said Michael Laing, co-owner and director of operations at Mawby. Mawby currently makes two ciders, Prime Cider, a dry, bottle-aged cider, and Wild Cider, a semi-dry rosé sparkling cider. Both are made with Ida Red, Northern Spy, and Rhode Island Greening apples grown in northern Michigan. Wild Cider has an added tart cherry dosage. Making cider is more di cult than making wine because the pH of apple juice is usually higher than that of wine grape juice. This leaves more room for microbial infection, said Laing. The fact that apples are rmer than grapes explains why the two fruits require di erent presses. Apple juice is extracted with a belt press, which crushes the fruit with cylinders and catches the juice in collection trays underneath. Wine grapes are pressed with a bladder press. In this

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device, a rubber bladder expands out via water pressure and presses the grapes against a stainless steel cage. A bladder press is easier on the soft grape berries. It also ensures that the bitter tannins from the seeds and skins are not collected with the juice. Still, working with fruit other than grapes tends to involve similar steps, including tasting and adjustment, said Brian Lesperance, vice president of Fenn Valley Vineyards & Winery in Fennville. Fenn Valley makes cider and wine. Its ciders include Cherry Apple Hard Cider, Dry Hard Cider, Hard Cider, and Session Apple Hard Cider, a reduced-alcohol hard cider. “To me, beyond the equipment, one of the only di erences is that apples can be stored after harvest whereas wine grapes cannot. Since we also make wine, we start making cider later, in December. We nish fermentation in the spring or early summer,” said Lesperance. Lesperance enjoys experimenting with di erent avors because apples provide a neutral base. “You can also do elaborate things with them, like aging apple juice in bourbon barrels to give it a vanilla and caramel twist,” said Lesperance. The e ort that cideries put in Hard ciders started to become popular around 2010, driven by consumer interest in low-alcohol beverages. Educating Michigan wineries about cider has taken many years. Dennis Mackey, founder and managing partner of Northern Natural Cider House and Winery in Kaleva, makes cider and wine. He supplies winemakers with apples and apple juice. “I explain to winemakers what goes into getting and pressing top quality apples. You work with the grower early to make sure you get a good pick job. Since bruising a ects the avor, you don’t use apples with any kind of rot. Not even those with spots the size of the end of a pencil,” said Mackey. Winemakers should also avoid using frozen apple concentrate, which typically comes from China. Northern Natural makes a non-organic Iced Apple Wine and ve varieties of organic bottled hard cider, Blueberry Apple, Elderberry Apple, Lavender Apple, Northern Star, and Traditional Apple. The cidery and winery also produces a number of di erent avors that are only available on draft at their tasting house. These use the same organic cider base and are avored with extracts made in-house. The varieties include Blueberry Wa e, Cherry Ginger, Cinnamon Spice, Hibiscus Rose, Lemongrass Lime, and Sweet Orange Blossom. Northern Natural also barrel ages some of its organic ciders in bourbon, cognac, gin, and sherry barrels to bring out avors associated with each barrel’s history. The unique avors are the work of Kyle Mackey, Dennis’s son. Kyle Mackey is also Northern Natural’s general manager and head brewer.

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Institute. He pulls extract from dried elderberries and French lavender owers and does all the brewing,” said Dennis Mackey. Another winery and cidery that o ers a wide range of ciders is Left Foot Charley. The company’s 10 ciders include Kingston Black Hard Apple Cider, a dry British style cider made with Kingston Black apples, Harrison Hard Apple Cider, which “drinks like Sauvignon Blanc with some bubble,” and Winesap Hard Cider, a semi-dry cider made primarily with Winesap apples and a small amount of equal parts Baldwin and Harrison apples. Left Foot Charley currently makes custom-made ciders for several Michigan wineries. In 2024, it hopes to produce custom-made ciders for a few Michigan breweries. Bryan Ulbrich, cider maker and winemaker at Left Foot Charley, says the most important part of the cider-making process is understanding a winery’s goals. “We want to tailor a cider’s aromatics, character, spice, and texture to the winemaker’s speci cations. Then we can understand how to help capture that ‘right-o -the-tree’ avor or age a cider to add nuances,” said Ulbrich. Back to the future Sometimes, wineries that have had successes with ciders pull their focus back to wine. This was the case for Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay. Black Star stopped producing most of its ciders in 2020., although they still makes a Hard Apple Cherry Cider. Lee Lutes, cider maker, distiller, and winemaker for Black Star Farms, said he stepped away from ciders partly because he wanted to focus on their crisp white wines. “I love capturing the cool climate in which our wine grapes are grown. Warmer climates tend to bake out that quality. This makes the wine feel at on the palate” said Lutes. Lutes said bringing out the bright, sharp qualities of apples was inspired by the same qualities in their white wines. “You want the customer to stop and take a breath, the way they do after the rst sip of a good cider. I’m looking for acidity that carries all the way through to the nish,” said Lutes. — Jessica Zimmer

Lee Lute

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Lee Lu fi

“Developing new ciders is a work in progress. It’s due to Kyle being a trained chef who attended Great Lakes Culinary

tes

Jenny Thull (left), vineyard manager at Horticultural Research Center at UMN

How University of Minnesota Helps Michigan Winemakers

by Jessica Zimmer n existence for more than a hundred years, the University of Minnesota (UMN) has helped Michigan wine grape growers cope

with its cool climate. It has notably developed cold-hardy varieties, including Clarion, Frontenac, La Crescent, and Marquette. As Michigan’s climate has warmed, UMN has also o ered advice on growing vinifera (European) wine grapes. UMN’s history as a farm-focused institution with an agriculture extension service dates back to the creation of the Minnesota Territory by Congress in 1849. At that time, settlers discussed the necessity of establishing an agricultural college. UMN was founded in 1851. In 1908, UMN established its fruit breeding farm. This farm became the University’s Horticultural Research Center in 1967. Many of UMN’s contributions to Michigan’s wine industry are vines created by Elmer Swenson, a Wisconsin grape breeder. Swenson was inspired by the work of Texas grape breeder T.V. Munson, who documented American grape species. In 1943, Swenson began crossing French hybrids with American grapes. Shortly after, Swenson received a set of vines, including four cold-hardy vines, from Dr. A.N. Wilcox, an instructor of horticultural crop breeding at UMN. After 24 years of breeding hybrids on his own, Swenson brought some of his best vines to a fruit eld day at UMN in 1967. His goal was to release the vines through the school. UMN did not immediately take him up on the o er. In 1969, Swenson became a gardener at UMN’s Horticulture Research Center. Swenson worked for UMN for 10 years. In 1972, Swenson shared one of his vines, Swenson Red, with the University. UMN agreed to name and distribute the vine, but waited to Continued on next page

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take action. UMN engaged in a joint release of Swenson Red

new disease-resistant vineyards.

and Edelweiss, another one of Swenson’s vines, in 1977 and One of the projects of VitisGen3 involves an e ort with Dr.

1978.

Tim Miles, assistant professor in the Department of Plant, After Swenson left the school, UMN gave him a grant to

Soil, and Microbial Sciences at Michigan State University

continue breeding grapes privately. Swenson released the

(MSU). The research is focused on how to train wine grape

remainder of his varieties on his own. Swenson had a habit

growers on cultivating disease-resistant varieties.

of sharing cuttings widely to encourage the development of cold-hardy varieties.

Approximately

ve years ago, UMN participated in the

Northern Grapes Project, a 2011-2019 USDA study that UMN perpetuates the spirit of Swenson’s work with a

involved 12 institutions, with MSU being one of these. The

number of collaborative e orts. These include partnering

goal was to improve varietal performance and fruit and wine

with the Minnesota Grape Growers Association to organize

avor in cold climates in the northern U.S.

the annual organization of the International Cold Climate Grape & Wine Conference. The conference, which was

Swenson passed away in 2004, but other viticulturists at

established in 2004, has long invited growers from Michigan

UMN have continued to provide guidance to Michigan wine

to present and learn at its meetings.

grape growers. One is Peter Hemstad, currently the coowner of Saint Croix Vineyards in Stillwater, Minnesota.

In 2020, UMN’s Extension O ce partnered with the

Between 1985 and 2015, Hemstad served as the grape

University of Wisconsin to create a webinar series on

breeder and viticulturist at UMN. It was during these years

viticulture and o er online resources on the subject.

that UMN released Frontenac (1996), La Crescent (2002),

Michigan wine grape growers regularly access the series and

Frontenac Gris (2003), and Marquette (2006). After he left,

database.

UMN released Itasca (2017) and Clarion (2022). These coldhardy grapes are now planted in many Michigan vineyards.

In addition, UMN Is involved in VitisGen 3, the third iteration of a U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)-funded multi-

Drew Horton, who is currently an enology specialist at the

state testing program that includes MSU, the University of

University of Minnesota, has served as a consultant to wine

California, Davis, and Cornell University, among other

grape growers in Michigan as well as other states.

institutions. Two objectives for VitisGen 3 are identifying and testing genes for resistance to powdery mildew and

“UMN often has individual wine grape growers from

developing sustainable management practices to establish

Michigan and other states contact us to ask about

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Colin Zumwalde, UMN

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Manlin Cui, UMN

Michigan and other states contact us to ask about

behave there, whether they’re successful in di erent

everything from winemaking to fungicides, planting vines,

environments,” said Clark.

harvesting grapes, and what to do during di erent seasons to ensure the health of the vineyards,” said Dr. Matthew Clark.

One of the reasons that Minnesota looks east is because

Clark is an associate professor of horticultural science and

Michigan’s wine industry generated over $6 billion in 2022.

director of research at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

Minnesota’s wine industry generated over $3 billion that

at the University of Minnesota’s Twin Cities campus.

year, according to a national economic impact study of the U.S. wine industry performed by John Dunham & Associates

As plant breeders, UMN has a goal of supporting industries

and commissioned by WineAmerica, the National

within the state.

Association of American Wineries. Currently, Minnesota does not produce as much fruit as Michigan.

“We also want to share what we learn beyond Minnesota. The idea is to get products like new vines in front of farmers

“In fact, on an annual basis, we get more information from

that can use them,” said Clark.

Michigan than we do from our own state. We want to encourage Michigan’s wine industry because we want our

Michigan, particularly along its lake shores, has a milder

varieties to be successful. Michigan wine grape growers

climate than Minnesota.

teach us how,” said Clark.

“We’re learning from Michigan growers how our hybrids

— Jessica Zimmer

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FIGHTING THE COLD

Jim Willwerth

From Canada to Colorado, researchers are considering new cultivars and technologies

by Jessica Zimmer rowers can do a great deal to help wine grape vines winter temperatures involves avoiding planting in the

thrive in cool climates, especially when using cold-hardy lowest spots in the vineyard. Growers should especially hybrids. Keeping vines in good health involves constantly avoid spots with poor air ow and little water drainage. monitoring all parts of the plant for distress, like desiccation. It also involves employing protective measures like geotextiles Since 2010, Brock University has been testing grapevine before temperatures drop. As climate change causes weather cold hardiness and the use of wind machines. The machines to be more erratic, one of the main thrusts of viticulture is to pull down warm air from high above the ground. This action help growers deal with unpredictability.

raises air temperatures around wine grapes. Wind machines are not the same as wind turbines, which generate

A cool climate is de ned as one in which winter temperatures electricity from wind power and cannot operate in windy drop below -20 and -30° Celsius when vines are dormant.

conditions.

“The extreme of the cold determines what you’ll grow and Although wind machines require large diesel engines and where you’ll plant it. Yet even up here in the Niagara region, are expensive to run, they save professional growers millions we’re just south of Lake Ontario. That’s a large body of water by avoiding losses. that doesn’t freeze,” said Dr. Jim Willwerth, assistant professor of biological sciences at Brock University in Ontario.

Amateur growers should consider less expensive measures, including covering the graft of the vine with soil. This

Willwerth is also a researcher at Brock’s Cool Climate Oenology technique, called “hilling up,” can be accomplished with a and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI). He said mitigating harsh mid- small plow on a tractor.

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Growers can entirely bury the vine if it is low to the ground.

Guarding vines in dry desert lands

Then snow will cover the top of the vine. Dr. Horst Caspari engages in viticulture primarily at the Western “You have to watch for rains washing the snow and soil o

Colorado Research Center of Colorado State University. The

later. You want to protect the bud. That’s the most tender

WCRC’s vineyards are in Grand Junction, a sunny, cold, and

part,” said Willwerth.

semi-arid area west of the Rocky Mountains. The Colorado wine industry is primarily focused on vinifera. It involves growing

Geothermal plastic fabrics and temperature monitors

many grafted vines.

Amateur growers should also consider geotextiles, polyester felt coverings that can maintain warmer temperatures during cold periods. These textiles do not create the same “greenhouse e ect” as plastic tenting. Geotextiles aid growers who cultivate tender varieties across the northern U.S.. They are utilized as far north as the upper reaches of British Columbia, Nova Scotia, Ontario, and Quebec. The logistics and cost of using geotextiles are complicated for large growers due to installation and removal. As temperatures warm, a grower should loosen the fabric. If they see frost, they should cover the vines back up. They should permanently uncover vines when they get close to bud break. A “false spring” is a brief period of warmth followed by a severe temperature drop. Growers in areas that experience this phenomenon may consider spraying vines with a plant growth regulator like abscisic acid (ABA). The compounds brie y keep vines in a dormant state. The use of plant growth regulators is based on the latest research at Brock University. Hopefully the sprays will be available in the near future. Knowing the land and the use of rootstocks is important.

“Some rootstocks do better in dry years. Others do better in

“It just takes one cold night to take out everything and leave you with nothing but rootstock. You can ght this by “hilling up” and using coarse wood chip mulch to protect vines from dryness,” said Caspari. Western states can expect their rst freezes in mid- to lateOctober. “We don’t see many false springs. But you can’t leave grapes to hang on the vine. You should pick on time and then protect the vines. Otherwise you’ll lose both the grapes and the vines,” said Caspari.

wet. If your weather varies, look for a “Goldilocks” variety that tolerates both,” said Willwerth.

Growers should reduce irrigation in August and September.

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“Before the vines start dropping leaves in late October, heavily rewet the soil. It’s important to irrigate your plants going into winter. That way, they do not become desiccated. Then hope for rain and snow during the dormant season,” said Caspari.

e vineyard Wind machine in th

Amateur growers who want to plant vines around their home should avoid growing vines near the lawn. The vines will take in the water meant for the lawn and overgrow.

First, growers should prune vines, leaving eight to 10 buds per spurs. Spurs are the retained portion of a cane. A spur

Growers should build a high cordon trellis. This is a system

usually contains one to three buds. The grower should make

composed of two wooden posts with wires running

these spurs long.

between them. The top wire should be strung between 4 and 6 feet above the ground.

In late winter, the grower should prune to two-bud spurs. Eventually, they will have to take the rst long spur o .

“Cultivars with downward growth habits should be grown on a high cordon. Don't ght nature! Many cultivars with semi-

“These techniques also work in dry zones in eastern

upright growth habits can be grown on high cordon.

Washington and New Mexico. The idea is to remove canes

However, some cultivars have a strong upright growth habit.

that will not be needed for fruit. This helps the vines

They are not suitable for high cordon training,” said Caspari.

concentrate on the remaining buds,” said Caspari.

The high cordon trellis helps protect vines with a

When temperatures begin to warm, growers should quickly

temperature gradient. On a cold, calm winter night, there is

remove the mulch covering the roots.

as much as a 5° di erence between the low cordon and the high cordon. The higher temperature is at the high cordon.

“If you don’t, you’ll wind up with a massive amount of roots. Having to cut o roots wastes time,” said Caspari.

“Cold temperature injury to buds is less likely to occur with high cordon training than with low cordon training,” said

Caspari’s other favorite tip for the spring is to watch fruit

Caspari.

trees, speci cally, peaches. Peaches usually ower two to three weeks before grapes experience bud break.

Double-pruning lessens frost damage “A grower can use this period, usually between the rst week During winter, Caspari has found that the best technique to

and the last week of April, to nish pruning. This will help

avoid losses is double pruning. This involves making two

vines grow in a healthy, sustainable way right from the start,”

pruning passes in a vineyard.

said Caspari.

_________________ ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney, and educator based in northern California. She has worked in journalism for over 20 years. She covers a wide variety of industries, including alcoholic beverage production, transportation, law, and the arts.

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SW MICHIGAN GETS GOOD By Miranda Franco

Reprinted courtesy of winereviewonline.com

Maxx Eichberg and Sidney Finan of Stranger Wine Company

The spotlight on Michigan wine has often been focused north toward Traverse City. However, just as California has noteworthy wine beyond Napa and Sonoma, it’s important to recognize that southwest Michigan has a serious wine scene that has been quietly earning its reputation. The region is known for refreshing and crisp whites and, increasingly, reds that can hold their own against European counterparts. Vineyards here, with their rolling topography, plentiful fresh water, rich soil diversity, and insulating lake-e ect snow, are attracting ambitious young winemakers with an eye toward the future of American wine. Many of them are honing their skills on the campus of Lake Michigan College in Benton Harbor – the Midwest’s rst commercial teaching winery. These winemakers are branching out into new territory, experimenting with varietals and techniques previously rare in Michigan. Accordingly, the number of wineries in this region, which includes the Lake Michigan Shore American Viticulture Area (AVA), and encompasses the Fennville AVA, continues to grow. This area boasts a nurturing terrain and soil with a climate of cool nights and warm days, which allows the grapes to mature with just the right balance of sugar and acidity. Notably, southwest Michigan is slightly warmer than its northern counterparts, aiding in an extended timeframe that allows the grapes to ripen fully, providing the crispness to white wines and the complexity and depth to red wines. To learn about the past, present and future of the region’s winemaking, I turned to Jayme Neumann and Steve Salisbury. Jayme is the general manager of Local Pour, an all-Michigan tasting room in Sawyer, Mich., that showcases the best products from small distillers, brewers, and winemakers throughout Michigan. She co-hosts If Vines Could Talk’s’ new podcast

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through If Vines Could Talk, which, beyond the podcast, o ers wine reviews, historical information, and private tastings. Salisbury’s family grew grapes in the area in the late 1960s and 1970s, and he has held nearly every position in some of southwest Michigan’s most heralded wineries. Grape Juice, Prohibition, and Sweet Wines Salisbury explained the history of southwest Michigan wine, which began in 1868 with Joseph Sterling, who had studied winemaking in Europe and established the Point Aux Peaux wine company in Monroe. Although Monroe was home to the rst commercial winery in the state, grapes started to be grown throughout Michigan to meet the growing demands of the juice and wine industries. Numerous vineyards planted the native Concord grape, and this caught the attention of Dr. Thomas Bramwell Welch and his son. The Welch family pasteurized the juice from Concord grapes and marketed it as an alternative to fermented wine for church services. Like so many other states, the enactment of Prohibition in 1919 put a damper on wine production and the expansion of wineries in Michigan. However, wineries that supplied Welch’s processing plants were able to stay in business. Notably, Michigan was the rst state to repeal Prohibition. When the wine industry returned in the mid-20th century, most wineries produced sweet and fruit wines. This was the stayed course until the 1970s when Tabor Hill Winery opened. Tabor Hill Winery and the Evolution of SW Michigan Wine Leonard Olson founded Tabor Hill Winery in Buchanan, Michigan. It was the rst winery specializing in vinifera grape wines, such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Chardonnay. They had so much success that wine from Tabor Hill was served in the White House at a State dinner honoring Austrian Chancellor Bruno Kreisky on Nov. 12, 1974. It was the rst Wolverine State wine ever served at a White House state dinner. Moving forward, there was slow growth in the number of wineries in the state, and experimentation with di erent varietals continued well into the 2000s. Southwest Michigan’s New Winemaking Identity Southwest Michigan’s wine region has seen a remarkable transformation in recent years. From growing rarely-seen grape varietals thought to be impossible to grow in Michigan to showing customers one-by-one that great wine can be produced in the region, winemakers are determined to place southwest Michigan wine on the world stage. This is all thanks in part to a cadre of visionary winemakers. The relocation of talented winemakers from Napa, Bordeaux, and the Willamette Valley, coupled with the presence of long-lauded local vintners, has added to the region’s luster. The maverick winemakers reshaping the narrative around the region, as identi ed by Salisbury and Neumann, include veterans like Jim Lester (Wyncroft), Dave Miller (White Pine Winery), Nancie Oxley (St. Julian), Joe Herman (Karma Vista Vineyard), Michael Moyer (Director of Viticulture at Lake Michigan College) and Je Lemon (Lemon Creek Winery) and rising stars like Andrew Backlin (Modales) Amy Birk (Domaine Berrien Cellars), Maxx Eichberg (Stranger Wine Company) and Rudy Shafer (Dablon Vineyards). Through their dedication to

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Salisbury, who is dedicated to promoting the ne wines of Michigan, especially those of the Lake Michigan Shore AVA

Maxx Eichberg

quality and not commercialization, they are changing the perception of Michigan wine, elevating it, and garnering recognition in international and national competitions. These awards underscore the quality of wines produced here and that the future of Michigan wine holds endless promise. What’s Next? To help SW Michigan’s wine industry grow, consumers must visit and start exploring. There are around 50 wineries to explore in Southwest Michigan, quaint downtowns, an impressive food scene, and pristine beaches. The area is a mere few hours from major midwest cities like Chicago and Detroit. Whether you are a seasoned oenophile or a curious novice, a visit to southwest Michigan promises a delightful experience. The next step? Tasting and forming your own opinion. Perceptions can be di cult to change in the wine world, but that will not stop Neumann and Salisbury, who are “changing opinions one sip at a time.” To help get you started on your exploration of the region’s ne wines, below are a few recommendations from Neumann and Salisbury focused on the varieties they feel best re ect the quality that Southwest Michigan has to o er: Cabernet Franc - White Pine Winery Sauvignon Blanc – Karma Vista Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé - Stranger Wine Company Sparkling/Blanc de Blanc – Dablon Vineyards Brut Rosé – Tabor Hill Winery

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Miranda Franco has been engaged since 2014 in the education and certification programs of the Wine and Spirits Educational Trust, the Society of Wine Educators, and the Napa Wine Academy. In addition to wine-related travels in the USA and Europe, she has ventured to Mexico, Croatia, Hungary, Argentina, Morocco, Chile, and the Azores. She holds an M.A. from The Johns Hopkins University and, by day, is Senior Policy Advisor in the Washington, D.C. law office of Holland & Knight. She can be reached at: MandiFranco@gmail.com

ffi

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Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW

Le Foot Charley | 2020 Seventh Hill Farm Late Harvest Riesling | Old Mission Peninsula The expressive nose sends you quickly to your rst sip, and it’s a delicious one. Exo c tropical fruit on the nose carries through the palate, melding harmoniously with lemon sorbet, rambutan, star fruit, creamy pears, and a thread of minerality. Simply divine through the long lime-zest scented nish. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Crème brûlée www.le footcharley.com Brengman Brothers Crain Hill Vineyard | 2021 Viognier | Leelanau Peninsula The lovely oral aroma c rocks, and the entry shouts out fresh summer peaches in a glass. Sa n smooth with a divine texture, it lls the mouth with juicy nectarines, peach compote, lemon-lime soda, and underlying herbs. It remains bright and fruit-driven through the persistent close. SRP $35 | Food pairing: Halibut with stone fruit salsa www.brengmanbrothers.com Brengman Brothers Crain Hill Vineyard | 2021 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon | Leelanau Peninsula Scents of earth and citrus are engaging upfront. This nicely dry white displays a melding of old and new world characteris cs. Crisp Honeydew melon, Meyer lemon, and a touch of earth wrap around a thread of minerality, and the bright, lingering nish is fresh and memorable. SRP: $35 | Food pairing: Goat cheese pockets www.brengmanbrothers.com Brengman Brothers Crain Hill Vineyard | 2016 Gewürztraminer Selec on de Grains Noble | Leelanau Peninsula A perfumed aroma of tropical fruit and orality opens to succulent layers of lychee gelato, lemon meringue pie, honeycomb, orange marmalade, and candied pecans. This gem remains lip-smacking delicious through the dreamy nish. SRP: $35 | Food pairing: Lemon pudding cake | www.brengmanbrothers.com Black Star Farms | 2020 Pinot Noir Blanc | Old Mission Peninsula This spunky dry white wine greets the nose with a compelling aroma of Raspberry Cupcake tea roses. Silky and vibrant on the palate as avors of Rainier cherries, honeysuckle, creamy pears fresh strawberries, and citrus elements interlace in brilliant synchroniza on, and the mouthwatering nish is bright and zesty. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Lemon herb marinated pork tenderloin | www.blackstarfarms.com Black Star Farms | 2017 Blanc de Blanc | Leelanau Peninsula This lla ng Brut style bubbly, cra ed from 100% Chardonnay, aged en rage for 16 months. It displays a lovely fresh White Fresia bouquet aroma and ac ve pinpoint bead. Mul layers of lemon splashed green apples, pear pastry, brioche, mineral tones, and hints of pineapple dance on the palate, while a pop of lime peeks through on the lively nish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Garlic bu er penne pasta | www.blackstarfarms.com Continued on next page

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St. Julian | 2021 Braganini Reserve Dry Riesling | Lake Michigan Shore Colorful citrus aromas greet the nose, and expand on the palate with notes of Granny Smith apples, a touch of minerality, hints of dried apricots, and a pinch of lemon verbena interlacing with brisk acidity. Nicely balanced and invigora ng as it makes its way to an extended close. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Avocado crab boats | www.stjulian.com St. Julian | 2020 Braganini Reserve Red Blend | Lake Michigan Shore This fruit-driven, full- avored red blend is composed of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch, Dornfelder, and Noiret. Beau fully structured and balanced with layers of cassis, blueberries, blackberries, graphite, dark plum, and a twist of black pepper spice coa ng the palate as it heads to the lingering nish. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Pasta bolognese | www.stjulian.com Aurora Cellars | NV Leora Brut | Leelanau Peninsula Fragrant lemon blossom and tree fruit aromas invite you into the glass. Bright and dynamic with a stream of ny bubbles joining avors of Honeycrisp apples, creamy pears, a touch of herbs, and a squeeze of Meyer lemon that explode vividly onto the palate. Vivacious all the way through the upli ing nal sip. SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Minced clam dip | www.auroracellars.com Good Harbor Vineyards | 2022 Albariño | Leelanau Peninsula The expressive citrus blossom aroma c drives you straight into the glass. Green apple, hints of chopped just-picked herbs, ripe kiwi, and fresh squeezed lemon juice create a s mula ng blast of deliciousness lling the palate. Brilliantly balanced and nervy with a lengthy, refreshing nish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Cream cheese, garlic/lemon herb cros ni | www.goodharbor.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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Preserve your favorite red or white wine for up to 4 weeks with the Coravin Pivot Wine Preservation System; extend the life of everyday wines. Available at https://tinyurl.com/324xfsr3 | MSRP: $109.94

Red Wine Stain Remover The one bottle no wine lover should be without. “Unequivocally and indisputably” the best solution for removing fresh and old wine stains from clothing, fabric & upholstery. Available at https://tinyurl.com/2p959k23 MSRP: $8.95

Merlot Infused Co ee The best part of waking up is a touch of Merlot in your cup. This co ee is aged in Merlot wine barrels for a subtle infusion of wine notes. Available at https://tinyurl.com/ 3utpva59 MSRP: $22

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Coravin Pivot Wine System

521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI