Capacity Development Curriculum for Carpet Weaving

FROM THE AMERICAN PEOPLE

Capacity Development Curriculum for Carpet Weaving USAID PAKISTAN JOBS PROJECT

SEPTEMBER 2010 This publication was produced for review by the United States Agency for International Development.

It was prepared by CARE International in Pakistan

CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

ACKNOWLEDGMENT The Pakistan JOBS project is a USAID funded project designed to improve the competitiveness of the Pakistani economy by strengthening systems for workforce development, encourage Pakistani companies to invest in human capital, and improve access to training, jobs, and business opportunities, especially for youth and women. The four components are (1) Industry Sector-Led Technical Training; (2) Employability, Job Placement, and Entrepreneurship for Secondary School and University Graduates; (3) Integrated Work and Learning Program for Less-Educated Youth; and (4) Youth Employability Exchange Systems.

USAID PAKISTAN JOBS project is working for the skill enhancement of the workforce in Pakistan in several growing economic sectors including agriculture, energy, construction, information technology, call centers, pharmaceuticals, garment manufacturing, carpet making, and fisheries. Preparation of standardized and tested curriculum is one of the major contributions of this project. Pakistan is among the world's largest producers and exporters of oriental hand-knotted carpets. In the last few decades, Pakistani carpets have reached the farthest corners of the world. The special characteristic of Pakistani carpets is the combination of quality with low price.Two types of knotting in carpet weaving are in vogue: SEHNA Knot (Persian) which is very common while the other is TURKISH Knot- a rare one.

Turkish knot weave is very durable and its texture is better than Sehna Knot Carpet.Turkish Knot Carpets fetch better price as compared to carpets of Persian weave and the weavers receive more wages. The USAID JOBS project is overcoming the education / employment gap by assisting private sector led development of courses that train workforce in the needed skill for carpet weavers on Turkish Knot in collaboration with Carpet Training Institute (CTI) working under Pakistan Carpet manufacturers and Exporters Association (PCMEA). The present curriculum covers the Warping, Quality Setting, Warp Mounting, Healding, Talam Reading & Writing, Turkish Knot Weave Learning, and Making of Carpet through Turkish Knot Weave.

The USAID PAKISTAN JOBS project wishes to thank all the persons and organizations that contributed in many ways to the preparation of this curriculum. Special thanks are extended to Ch. Abdul Rehman, Manager Operations CTI, Mr Rafaqat Ali, Dyeing Master CTI and his team who coordinated the preparation of this curriculum. Muhammad Mukhtar Pasha, BTN Specialist and Dr. Nazir Mahmood , Curriculum Consultant for USAID PAKISTAN JOBS Project were also instrumental in the finalization of the syllabus.

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USAID PAKISTAN JOBS CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING SUGGESTED DURATION: 460 HOURS SPREAD OVER THREE MONTHS

Disclaimer: The author's views expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of the United States Agency for International Development or the United States Government

1.

Introduction

1

2.

Rationale

1

3.

Learning Objectives and Outcomes

2

4.

Program Planning Template

5

5.

Synopsis

6

6.

Plan for Introductory Session

7

6.

Plan for Days 1 – 3 : Warping

8

7.

Plan for Days 4 – 5: Quality Setting

10

8.

Plan for Days 6 – 9: Warp Mounting

12

9.

Plan for Days 10 – 13: Healding

14

10.

Plan for Days 14 – 17: Talam reading and writing

16

11.

Plan for Days 18 – 75: Carpet weaving by Turkish knot

18

12.

Methodology, assessment and evaluation

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Number

Illustrations

Page

1

Persian carpet

7

2

Oldest known carpet

8

3

Warp Making

13

4-5

Quality Setting

15

6

Warp Mounting

17

7-8

Healding

19

9

Talam language

21

10 - 11

Carpet weaving by conventional knife

23

12 - 13

Carpet weaving by Turkish knot

24

14 - 15

Turkish and Persian knots

25

16 - 17

Turkish knot carpets in process

26

18

Bana

27

19

Weft Insertion

27

20

Weft insertion

28

21 - 22

Trainees’ Product

29

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

INTRODUCTION: Carpet weaving is labor-intensive and export-oriented industry involving thousands of craftspeople both men and women and helps them earn their livelihood.This industry has potential for employing rural workforce for generating economic activities. It has strong potential for engaging women folk of rural areas for providing gainful employment opportunity resulting in socio economic growth of the country. Although hand-knotted carpet is Pakistan's traditional craft, in view of changing international trend there is need to upgrade its skill by providing institutional framework in Pakistan. The knot used for carpet manufacturing in Pakistan is Sehna Knot. The carpets made of this knot are not very durable whereas carpets of Turkish Knot Weave are better in texture, more durable and fetch batter price.Therefore, skill development in Turkish knot weave for the benefit of industry is badly needed.The skill of Turkish Knot Weave will fetch better wage rates for weavers. The participants of carpet weaving course will specialize in warping, quality setting, loom mounting, healding and talam writing, talam reading, in addition to learning of Turkish knot weave.

RATIONALE: The craft of carpet weaving - besides meeting requirements of much needed foreign exchange - has potential to engage less educated, low-income and out-of-school lot at large scale.

The skill development is at present taking place in an informal way with people acquiring skill at the work place and very few opportunities for skill development are available for school-age youth for want of institutional framework. Therefore, short term frame work of skill development programme both for men and women is badly needed enabling them to lead decent living and earning better wage rates.

In Pakistan two types of knotting are in vogue one is Sehna knot which is very common another is Turkish knot weave which is very rare. In the international market the demand of Turkish knot weave in manifold as compared to Sehna knot carpets. Moreover Turkish knot weave are more durable and better in texture as compared to Sehna knot and in more demand in the international market. Therefore switching over the weave from conventional Sehna knot to Turkish knot is the need of the industry. This training programme is also aimed at improving the expertise of carpet weavers in warping, quality setting, loom mounting, healding, talam writing and talam reading.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

LEARNING OBJECTIVES AND OUTCOMES: The objectives and outcomes of this programme are given below.

PROCESS LEARNING: The participants will learn following carpet weaving processes. Ÿ Warping. Ÿ Quality Setting. Ÿ Warp Mounting. Ÿ Healding. Ÿ Talam Reading. Ÿ Talam writing. Ÿ Turkish Knot making. Ÿ Speed in carpet weaving through Turkish knot.

PRODUCT QUALITY: The participants of this training programme will be able to weave high quality carpets. Ÿ Durable carpets Ÿ Attractive carpets Ÿ Carpets can make in any design.

The training programme has following economical out comes. Ÿ Increase in foreign exchange. Ÿ Increase in employment Ÿ Employment and empowerment of rural women. Ÿ Increase in wages.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure 1: 400 years Old Persian carpet referring to the reign of Shah Abbas (1587-1629) sold for 4.5 million dollars.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure 2: The Pazyryk Carpet, 200 x 183cm (6'6” x 6'6”) has 360,000 TK/m2 (232 TK/in.2); this, the oldest known surviving knotted-pile carpet, was found in a burial mound in the Altai mountains of southern Siberia; it is now in the Hermitage Museum, St. Peter's Burg, Russia.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

1. PROGRAM PLANNING TEMPLATE:

Aim

To develop carpet - manufacturing skills of course participants through Turkish Knot Weave which is more in demand in the international market.

Duration

460 hours spread over 3 months

Venue

Carpet Weaving Lab and open spaces as required

Participants

Men and women over 18 years of age, who are already working in carpet weaving industry. No educational qualification is required.

Resources

White board and markers, iron bars for warp making, carpet weaving loom,

The objectives of the program are to facilitate and enhance the participants’ Overall Program Objectives

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Learning of warping, quality setting, warp mounting and healding.

Proficiency in Talam reading and Talam writing.

Expertise in carpet weaving by Turkish Knot.

Manufacturing skills of attractive and durable carpets in various design and improved quality.

Professional skills of carpet weav ing

By the end of the course the participants will be able to improve their Overall Learning Outcomes

1. Carpet-making skills through Turkish -Knot Weave.

2. Professional skills for employment in rural areas.

3. Earning capacity.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

SYNOPSIS: Days

Topic

Duration

Orientation Day 1

Day 1-3

Day 4-5

Day 6-9

Day 10-13

2 hours

Ice breaking

10 minutes

Participant’s Introduction Introduction of Training Group making for the allotment of looms

30 minutes 30 minutes 50 minutes

Warping

16 hours

Description of warping Warping Practice Practical Test for warp making

1 hour 14 hours 1 hour

Quality Setting

12 hours

Description of Quality Setting Practice of Quality Setting Practical test for Quality Setting Warp Mounting

24 hours

Description of warp mounting Practice of warp mounting Practical test for warp mounting Healding

6 hours 15 hours 3 hour 24 hours

Description of healding Practice of healding Practical test for healding

6 hours 15 hours 3 hours 24 hours

Talam Reading and Writing Description of Talam Reading Day 14-17

Description of Ta lam Writing Practice of Talam Reading & Writing Practical test for Talam Reading & Writing Carpet Weaving by Turkish Knot Weave Description of Turkish Knot Weave

Day 18-75

2 hours 9 hours 1 hour

3 hours 3 hours 15 hours 3 hours 348 hours 6 hours

Description of weft insertion

12 hours

Practice of Turkish Knot Weave

294 hours

Revision of all process

18 hours

Practical test for carpet making by Turkish Knot Weave

18 hours

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

INTRODUCTORY SESSION: Topic

Orientation

Duration

2 hours

Venue

Carpet weaving lab

Resources Needed

White board and markers

Aim

To introduce the purpose of training, participants introduction and group formation for the allotment of looms Ice breaking.

Objectives

Participant’s introduction.

Introduction of the training course Group making for the allotment of looms.

Beginning

Ice breaking activities to make the trainees comfortable with each other and with the trainer

Main Section

Explaining the purpose of the training: why this training is proposed, what the expected results are and the expected impact of the training in the long run.

Introducing the trainers and trainees.

Formation of group for working on the looms.

Ending

Question answer session about the training programme and facilities at institute.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

PLAN FOR DAY 1 - 3: Topic

Warping

Duration

16 hours

Venue

Open space and carpet weaving lab.

Resources Needed

White board, Markers and Iron bars for warp making.

Aim

To train the participants in warping process

Objectives

Explaining the different qualities of warp according to the quality of carpet.

Demonstrating the method of warp making.

Practice in warp making to get the required accuracy and speed.

Removal of the warp from Iron bars, Faults in warping and their remedy.

Beginning

Introduction of warping process

Main Section

Quality of warp and different type of warp yarn used for warping.

Practical method of warp making.

Practice in warp making to get the required accuracy and speed.

Removal of the warp from Iron bars Faults in warping and their remedy.

Ending

Practical test of all the participants for warp making.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure 3: Warp Making

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

PLANS FOR DAYS 4- 5: Topic

Quality Setting

Duration

12 hours

Venue

Carpet weaving lab.

Resources Needed

White board and marker.

Aim

Training of the partic ipants for quality setting of warp according to the quality of carpet.

Objectives

Explaining the importance of the quality setting process.

Demonstrating the method of quality setting i.e. adjustment of warp according to the number of warp yarns per inch.

Practice in quality setting to get the required accuracy and speed.

Faults in quality setting and their Remedy.

Beginning

Introduction of the quality setting process and its importance in carpet making.

Main Section

Explain various method of quality setting.

Demonstrate the adjustment of warp yarns in warp before warp mounting according the warp yarns per inch in carpet.

Practice in Quality setting to get the required accuracy and speed

Detecting faults in quality setting and their remedy.

Ending

Practical test of participants for accuracy and speed in quality setting.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figures: 4 - 5: Quality Setting

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

PLAN FOR DAYS 6 - 9: Topic

Warp Mounting

Duration

24 hours

Venue

Carpet weaving lab.

Resources Needed

White board and marker. carpet weaving loom

Aim

Training of the participants for warp mounting on carpet weaving loom.

Importance of Warp Mounting process.

Objectives

Method of Warp Mounting.

Practice in Warp mounting to get the required accuracy and speed.

Detecting faults in Warp mounting and their r emedy.

Beginning

Introduction of warp mounting process.

Main Section

Explain he methods of Warp mounting.

Practice in warp mounting to get the required speed and accuracy.

Detecting faults in warp mounting and their remedy Detecting faults in quality setting and their remedy.

Ending

Practical test of participants for accuracy and speed in warp mounting.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure: 6: Warp Mounting

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

PLAN FOR DAY 10 - 13: Topic

Healding

Duration

24 hours

Venue

Carpet weaving lab.

Resources Needed

White board and marker.

Aim

Learning of Healding.

Objectives

To explain the i mportance of healding process.

Method of healding i.e. entrance of heald in warp to make the shed which divide the warp in two portions.

Practice in healding to get the required accuracy and speed.

Faults in healding and their remedy.

Beginning

Introduction of healding process.

Main Section

Explain the methods of healding i.e. entrance of heald in warp to make shed which divide the warp in two portions.

Practice in healding to get the required speed and accuracy.

Detecting faults in healding and their remedy

Ending

Practical test of participants for accuracy and speed in healding.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figures: 7 - 8: Healding

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

PLAN FOR DAYS 14 - 17: Topic

Talam reading and writing.

Duration

24 hours

Venue

Carpet weaving lab.

Resources Needed

Talam Language sign sheets

Aim

To enable the carpet weavers become proficient in talam reading and talam writing.

To p ractice Talam reading

Objectives

To p ractice Talam writing.

To be able to weave carpets with the help of Talam .

Beginning

Introduction of Talam . Learning of signs and symbols used for different colors and numbers.

Main Section

Learning of Talam reading.

Learning of Talam writ ing.

Weaving of carpet by talam.

Ending

Practical test of Talam reading and writing.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure 9: Talam Language

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

PLAN FOR DAYS 18 - 75: Topic

Carpet Weaving by Turkish Knot Weave

Duration

356 hours

Venue

Carpet weaving lab.

Resources Needed

Pictorial illustrations; talam sign sheets; carpet looms; iron bars

Aim

To become proficient in c arpet making by Turkish knot.

Objectives

To make participants proficient in weaving of Turkish knot To p ractice Turkish knot for required speed and accuracy.

To get command over Weft insertion.

Beginning

Introduction of Turkish knot and its pictorial illustration.

Main Section

Practical formation of Turkish knot.

Practice of Turkish knot to get required speed and accuracy.

Learning of weft insertion Practice of weft insertion to get required speed and accuracy Weaving of a complete carpet through Turkish knot with the help of Talam

Ending

Practical test of Turkish knot for speed and accuracy.

Evaluation of carpet made by each participant.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figures: 10 - 11: Carpet weaving by conventional knife

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figures: 12 - 13: Carpet weaving in Turkish Knot

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figures: 14 - 15: Pictorial Representation of Sehna Knot and Turkish Knot Weave.

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figures: 16 - 17: Turkish knot carpets in process

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure 18: Bana

Figure 19: Weft Insertion

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure 20: Weft Insertion

24

CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

Figure: 21 - 22: Trainees' Product (Carpet made in Turkish Knot Weave)

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CAPACITY DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM FOR CARPET WEAVING

METHODOLOGY: The participants of this programme are illiterate or semi illiterate.The methodology to be adopted will be practice based. Different carpet weaving processes are distributed in different sessions. In each session, the appropriate trainer will teach them about the process.

The participant will do practice for speed and accuracy to increase their income.

The different processes to be taught in the sessions are: Ÿ Warping Ÿ Quality setting Ÿ Warp mounting Ÿ Healding Ÿ Talam reading and Talam writing Ÿ Carpet weaving by Turkish knot

ASSESSMENT AND EVALUATION: The participants of the training programme are illiterate or semi illiterate.They are not able to give a theoretical paper. They are practically evaluated for their speed and accuracy at different stages.The stages for evaluation are given below: Ÿ Practical evaluation at the end of each session. Ÿ Practical evaluation at the end of each milestone. Ÿ Practical evaluation of the carpet they have made during training.

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