MY ADVENTURES
THE VENICE OF DANUBE This secluded spot of Ukraine is so often compared with the famous Italian resort that many tourists do not remember its original name. The Ukrainian Venice is located in the south of Ukraine, on the border with Romania. This is an ancient island and secret town of Vylkove. Just like its Italian brother, Vylkove is surrounded by water, indented by channels and gondolas. If you have been to sophisticated carnival Venice, you will see that they are completely different. However, the cities have something in common: both Vylkove and Venice are located at the same latitude. There is no mysticism, just mere geography! Although, the Ukrainian town would be better called the «The Venice of Danube». Vylkove has its own unique charm and authenticity. A floating town, which is located in the delta of Danube, is a survival guideline for modern people. Its history dates back to the split in the Orthodox Church in Kyivan Rus in 1746 (according to other sources – in 1762). The city was founded by the Old Believers, or, as they call themselves, Lipovans, who were escaping religious persecution. These were the Don Cossacks, who first settled in the Danube wetlands, where the river flows into the Black Sea. To experience its exotic atmosphere, you should go to the old town upon arrival. It would be better to say «float», because, in comparison with other cities and towns in Ukraine, Vylkove has the lowest number of cars. Each family has a boat, its pier and even a selfmade dock, though. Here you can travel by water all around the town. The boats are used for transportation of goods, travelling to a veggie garden, market, school, or neighbouring islands. What is more, for weddings, locals decorate not cars, but boats! There is 40 km of channels in Vylkove. You can observe the real life of local people if you get to the most insular part of the town, which is also considered the most ancient. According to one source, the town got its name because of the shape of its territory: the three main channels in the Danube backwaters formed a trident, which looks like a fork (Ukrainian: vylka). The word «lipovany» consists of the Romanian «pava» (pave) and «li» (they), i.e. those who pave. In fact, the cult of land and industriousness can be felt there.
In these parts of the town, the Danube looks more like the Nile: it is the most silted river in Europe. Every cubic meter of water contains almost half a kilo of silt, which is used for building of all the local houses. People do not buy the land in Vylkove. Like 300 years ago, they wash it in. However, such land can subside, so it has to be additionally paved. Locals scoop the silt up from the river with the self-made scoops, collect river mud in neat heaps and let it dry. Then they pour it on their land plots and shore up the coasts of islands. For six acres of a land plot, you need more than one thousand cubic meters of silt! It is hard work, but Vylkove that is located on 72 man-made islands was established in such a way. Lipovans live in seclusion, according to the old Christian commandments of the Jerusalem Typicon, the main of which is to never take more than you need. They wash in the land only as much as they can cultivate and do not build large houses. The second bread for inhabitants of the old islands is fish. They catch as much fish as they can eat and they are environmentally friendly, too. Lipovans are hospitable people: in every house, you will be shown the everyday life of locals and treated to a special strawberry wine. The soil here favors the growth of berries and fruits, which are so sweet. In addition, you definitely should try the local fish soup or borsch. However, in Vylkove it is almost the same because here the Ukrainian borsch is cooked not with meat, but with fish! What is more, Vylkove is located in the middle of the Danube bio reserve. Therefore, when you come here, you should definitely go to the most picturesque part of the town – the island of pelicans. It is located on the delta spits, where the Danube flows into the Black Sea. Many pelicans from all over the Europe flock here, to the farthest side of Vylkove, because this place is protected from wind and predators. In addition to the interesting birdwatching, you can see the amazing silver beach and the warm Black Sea-Danube Bay. If you dream of unity with nature, you definitely should visit Vylkove.
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