Kirsty Watermeyer, Suné van Wyk, Pompie Burger, Elzanne McCulloch, Anja Denker, Louis Wessels, Annabelle Venter, Winfried Holze
Travel Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.
Industry partners:
Winter 2025
THE WORLD’S LARGEST DIGITAL NEWSSTAND
T R O W , S H A R E
Venture Media is the pioneer of Namibia tourism promotion. We are the leader in spreading the tourism word around the world. We distribute accurate, credible, up to date and regular tourism-related information on paper, in social media, on the World Wide Web, and on mobile apps. We have reached hundreds of thousands over three decades. Be part of our community and let’s do it together.
Y O U R Y W I T H U S I N 2 0 2 1
We focus on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across our various magazines and digital platforms. Join the journey and share your stories with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter.
Why ethical business, conservation, tourism, people and communities matter. How these elements interrelate and how we can bring about change, contribute to the world and support each other. Whether for an entire nation, an industry, a community, or even just an individual.
WWW.VENTURE.COM.NA or email us at info@venture.com.na for a curated proposal
In 2021, we're focussing on telling and sharing STORIES THAT MATTER across our various magazines and digital platforms. Join the journey and share your stories with audiences that understand and value why certain things matter
Why ethical business, conservation, tourism, people and communities matter
How these elements interrelate and how we can bring about change, contribute to the world and support each other Whether for an entire nation, an industry, a community, or even just an individual.
ories that matter
mit 30 jähriger Erfahrung JOIN US IN NAMIBIA Tours &
Jagdsafaris
Wir bieten an: Gemeinsame Planung Ihrer individuellen Selbstfahrertour oder Ihrer geführten Reise mit profi Reiseleiter, Klimatisiertes Kfz je nach Gruppengröße, Geburtstag, Feier/Hochzeitstage oder sonstige Events.
Buchungsanfrage an joinus@iway.na
Wir freuen uns auf Sie und werden Sie am Internationalen Flughafen Windhoek persönlich begrüßen !
NAMIBIA DISCOVER
17.
18. Hardap Resort
19. Duwisib Castle
20. Shark Island Resort 21. Fish River Canyon & Hobas Camp
Ilove all things Namibia, as only a true Namibian can. Even the hay fever that follows a wonderful rainy season (like the one we had this year). Or the icy nip in the air on a winter morning on the back of a game-viewing vehicle. Even the dust that swirls across dry clay pans when a herd of zebra takes off across this vast, never-ending landscape we call home. I love everything about this country. But some places are like children, they expand your understanding of love beyond its limits.
If there is a place that captures the soul of Namibia in one sweeping view, it must surely be Etosha. In winter, mirages dance over the white pan, and animals crowd the waterholes in scenes so dramatic they rival any wildlife documentary. This season, we dedicate our issue to this iconic national park. Photographer and predator enthusiast Anja Denker shares her love for Etosha’s big cats, capturing their majesty through her lens in a way that only years of patient observation can. Renowned birder Pompie Burger turns his binoculars toward the waterholes, revealing the winged wonders that thrive there, especially during the cooler months. We also share an incredible guide to Namibia’s top park so you too can enjoy its riches.
While Etosha anchors our winter issue, we venture further afield to showcase the diverse stories Namibia holds year-round. Annabelle Venter boards a once-in-a-lifetime conservation mission to the remote Marion Island, where she joins efforts to protect seabirds from invasive mice. And Kirsty Watermeyer unearths hidden treasures in Omaruru, a charming town with creativity stitched into its very streets.
Whether you are journeying into the wild, cruising to far-off islands, or exploring Namibia’s smaller towns, one thing is certain: this country offers unforgettable experiences in every season.
So pack your camera, your curiosity, and your love for the land and let Namibia reveal her magic to you, one adventure at a time.
With love from Namibia,
@elzanne_mcculloch
ON THE COVER
Image: Anja Denker
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
Cool cats - the iconic Kalahari acacia at Salvadora and a coalition of four cheetah set the stage against the vast expanse of the Etosha Pan.
CONTENTS
In this issue
CHARISMATIC LARGE CATS OF ETOSHA p12
Etosha’s most-wanted sightings include lions, elephants, leopards, and cheetahs.
ETOSHA UNLOCKED p24
Welcome to Etosha, Namibia’s crown jewel of wild adventure.
BIRDING WITH POMPIE p38
Halali stands out for its rich birdlife and peaceful atmosphere.
A JOURNEY INTO STILLNESS AND WONDER p50
Etosha greeted us with lush greenery, warm air, and a refreshing welcome at Anderssons at Ongava.
SAVING OUR SEABIRDS p68
An expedition to Marion Island with BirdLife South Africa
A CONSERVATION LEGEND
| Travelling in the footsteps of Garth Owen-Smith
WHEN LUXURY IS THE DESTINATION
Experience the ultimate in luxury with Westair’s Private Charter flightsseamlessly taking you to any destination in Namibia and beyond.
BUSH TELEGRAPH
News from the tourism industry
NAMIBIA LEADS REGIONAL ANTI-POACHING AND CONSERVATION EFFORTS
At the SADC TFCA International Conference in Harare (May 2025), Namibia was highlighted for its leadership in combating wildlife crime, reporting the region’s highest volume of illegal ivory seizures. The Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism’s (MEFT) strong cross-border collaboration within the KAZA TFCA and its successful CBNRM model were credited for this achievement. Namibia’s active role in the SADC LEAP Strategy (2022–2032) underscores its position as a key player in regional conservation and sustainable tourism. With long-term goals of reducing wildlife crime and strengthening community livelihoods, Namibia stands poised for increased investment and growth in conservation-linked tourism.
The MEFT has launched a major infrastructure upgrade in Etosha National Park. Tourist roads are being upgraded to lowvolume seal roads, starting with 20 km from Okaukuejo. The full 215 km stretch between Okaukuejo and King Nehale Gate will be completed over 60 months to enhance accessibility and reduce maintenance costs. During the first phase of Etosha’s roadworks, tourist traffic between Okaukuejo and Halali will be rerouted via the Gemsbokvlakte road. Visitors are advised to follow park signage and drive cautiously.
Louis Wessels
ROAD UPGRADES UNDERWAY IN ETOSHA
FLYNAMIBIA DOUBLES VICTORIA FALLS FLIGHTS
FlyNamibia has announced that its Windhoek–Victoria Falls route will increase from three to six weekly flights starting April 2026. The expanded schedule reflects growing demand for regional travel and supports stronger tourism ties between Namibia and Zimbabwe.
KAZA TAKES CENTRE STAGE
Travel to the Zambezi Region has never been easier. With FlyNamibia’s routes connecting Windhoek, Maun, Katima Mulilo and Victoria Falls, tourism stakeholders report increased interest in multi-country itineraries exploring Botswana, Namibia, and Zimbabwe. Add to this the addition of Westair Aviation and Gondwana Collection’s Fly-in Zambezi partnership, which opens up a seamless way to experience the KAZA region – one of the most spectacular cross-border conservation areas on the continent.
Fly-in Zambezi is a game-changing luxury lodge-hopping air service designed for the modern explorer.
This exciting new venture connects the dots between Namibia’s stunning Zambezi Region, Victoria Falls, Maun, Kasane, and surrounding wilderness destinations.
With a Cessna Grand Caravan based in Katima Mulilo, and operating seasonally from July to November, Fly-in Zambezi gives travellers the choice of custom lodgehopping charters (from 2025) or scheduled seat-based flights three times a week (starting 2026). Each flight offers space for 4–8 guests, ensuring privacy, exclusivity, and an immersive safari start from the skies.
This 50/50 joint venture brings together Westair’s operational excellence and Gondwana’s trusted travel expertise, promising exceptional service and unforgettable journeys.
APPOINTED AS NEW MINISTER OF ENVIRONMENT, FORESTRY AND TOURISM
The Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) enters a new chapter with the appointment of Hon. Indileni Daniel as Minister, announced by President H.E. Dr. Netumbo Nandi-Ndaitwah. While Hon. Daniel may be a newcomer to the tourism portfolio, her rich background in education, policy development, and community engagement signals a promising era of inclusive and holistic leadership.
An experienced development professional, Hon. Daniel has worked extensively in education and local government, with a strong focus on community development, project management, and mentoring. Her experience working with both international and local organisations brings a global awareness to her leadership approach.
At a time when the Namibian tourism sector is evolving rapidly, her expertise in lifelong learning and capacity building is particularly well suited.
Tourism stakeholders have responded positively, expressing optimism that her appointment will infuse the Ministry with new ideas and a people-centred vision. As tourism continues to touch every corner of Namibian society, the familiar mantra that “Tourism is everyone’s business” rings especially true – and Hon. Daniel embodies this inclusive spirit.
HON. INDILENI DANIEL
Etosha Charismaticlarge c a t s of
Ask anybody planning to visit Etosha what they are hoping to see, and the answer in most cases would undoubtedly be “lion”, with elephant, leopard and cheetah also heading the top of the bucket list.
ANJA DENKER
Why do these charismatic felids hold such fascination and allure for most humans? Why do they evoke strong emotions like awe, admiration and fear, making them the most soughtafter species, not only at Etosha but in any other national park and wilderness area in Namibia?
The lion has inspired more myths and traditions than any other animal. Due to its size, power, as well as its noble and majestic appearance, it is rightly referred to as the king of beasts.
Grace, strength, agility, elusiveness and sheer beauty are some of the other attributes that define large cats, especially leopards, with the cheetah famed for its slender elegance and remarkable speed, making it the fastest animal on land.
Predators also seem to hold a morbid fascination for people because of their hunting prowess, where a successful hunt shows that death is actually not just an end, but part of the eternal cycle of life, played out so vividly in nature.
It is enthralling and nerve-wracking to watch these animals employ various hunting techniques, relying on their keen senses and stalking their prey with stealth, blending into their surroundings with perfect camouflage. The duration and unpredictability of the outcome of these hunts are equally tantalising and suspenseful for any nature enthusiast and wildlife photographer, arousing strong and conflicting feelings ranging from excitement and relief when a predator manages to secure its meal, to feelings of sadness and empathy with the prey because of potential suffering and loss of life.
Etosha is a stronghold for lions, with an estimated number of between 350 and 400 spread across the park. Lions are social animals, with females living in prides and males living in coalitions which may come in contact with more than one pride while regularly patrolling their territory. The area around the waterholes of Okondeka, Nebrowni, Gemsbokvlakte, Rietfontein, Goas, Salvadora and Charitsaub, Chudop, Kalkheuwel, Groot and Klein Okevi as well as Tsumcor are productive for sightings of these apex predators.
Lions are largely nocturnal and are said to spend up to 20 hours per day sleeping, depending on the circumstances. They are, however, opportunistic predators with a wide prey spectrum which varies seasonally and regionally. In fact, I have once witnessed a male lion with an injured front leg try to hunt a springbok at around 14:30 in the heat of summer at Charl Marais Dam.
A lion attack is usually in the form of a short and powerful charge, followed by a leap onto the prey, with the kill effected by strangulation.
To maximise your chances of active lion sightings, however, it is advisable to head out at first daylight, especially in the hot summer months. Heading out in the late afternoon just before dusk can also yield some productive sightings. A pile-up of stationary vehicles is almost always a certain indicator of a lion sighting in the park!
...a successful hunt shows that death is actually not just an end, but part of the eternal cycle of life, played out so vividly in nature.
Lions are highly vocal, with their deep and far-carrying roar – varying in intensity and pitch – being one of the most recognisable and enthralling sounds of the bush. They often roar at dawn and dusk, signalling territoriality or calling distant pride members.
The leopard has the widest global distribution of all the wild cats and is the most secretive and elusive of the big cats in the park. They are masters of camouflage and exceptionally adaptable, with habitats ranging from forests to arid savannas. Exquisitely beautiful, with rosettes covering most of the body, the coat colour can vary in accordance with the climate and habitat, from pale yellow to brown and golden brown. The African leopard also varies considerably in size and appearance from region to region.
Due to their elusive nature, leopard sightings in the park have been few and far between in the past, but over recent years certain individuals have become more habituated around vehicles and people, with good leopard sightings documented more frequently. Encounters with leopards rate as the most memorable and special of any sightings in the park.
Etosha is a stronghold for lions, with an estimated number of between 350 and 400 spread across the park.
It is hard to explain the rush of adrenaline one experiences when this sublime predator gracefully slinks across your path – usually when least expected – sending your pulse rate into orbit and making it almost impossible to hold the camera still.
I have been incredibly fortunate to be able to follow certain individuals over the past ten years, especially three generations of territorial females in the area around the Rietfontein waterhole, each sharing and later leaving the territory to their daughter. My very first encounter with the first of these special females occurred in December 2014 on the Rietfontein detour, when my daughter and I had the privilege of spending a whole day with this first generation. There was no other car in sight, which is a rare phenomenon! My husband and I encountered her again in May 2015, when she was stalking springbok at the Rietfontein waterhole and after a few suspenseful hours succeeded in securing a meal for herself. She was joined by her daughter to share the prey, and this was my last sighting of her. Her daughter took over the territory and became well-known in the area, fondly referred to as the “Rietfontein female”, very habituated around cars and relaxed in their presence. In June 2018, I photographed her and one of her cubs, a little female, on the main road directly opposite the waterhole. The other little cub, a male and an adult now, also roams the territory around the Rietfontein waterhole, but is more aloof and less approachable. My last sighting of the “Rietfontein female” was in October 2021, much further north, as she left the immediate vicinity of Rietfontein for her daughter. Fanciful, but it was almost as if she was saying goodbye, as I never saw her again. On a recent trip to Etosha in March 2023, I came across an adult female leopard with a cub at almost the exact same spot frequented by the “Rietfontein female” with her female cub in 2018. From the photos I was able to identify by means of the spot pattern the same small female cub, now an adult, with her offspring! Long may the legacy continue…
Other good areas for productive leopard sightings are the areas around Goas waterhole, Hartebeest Drive, the waterholes close to Namutoni Camp, Dik-Dik Drive and the area around Tsumcor.
The long-limbed, slender and elegant bodies of the cheetah have been evolved for speed, with the long tail providing balance. These graceful cats are opportunistic hunters, often seen hunting during daytime but usually shifting their activity towards dawn and dusk hours when the weather is warmer. They are largely concentrated around the vast plains in the park, enabling them to utilise the advantage of their agility for spectacular, high-speed chases, usually in pursuit of springbok.
Memorable and productive sightings of cheetah are regularly reported from the area around Fischer’s Pan, where they are often seen perched on termite mounds used as a vantage point to look out for prey opportunities or for marking their territories. The area around Chudop, Doringdraai, Salvadora, Charitsaub and the plains to the east and west of Halali Camp are also favoured hunting grounds.
Cheetah population levels in Etosha are relatively low. A recent study using camera traps placed in the park and neighbouring farms to obtain cheetah movement data, estimated the cheetah density to be between 0.50 and 0.66 cheetah/100 km2. These low numbers have generally been attributed to competition from other predators, especially lions.
There is no denying that these three striking and noble felids are major drawcards to the park, evoking excitement and admiration, as well as empathy and concern for their wellbeing. TN
A CENTURY OF STEWARDSHIP
The history of conservation in Etosha National Park
Etosha National Park, often called the “Great White Place” due to its enormous salt pan, is not only one of Namibia’s top tourism destinations; it is also one of the oldest and most iconic conservation areas in Africa. Its story is one of resilience, transformation and an evolving understanding of what it means to protect nature for future generations.
BEGINNINGS IN A COLONIAL ERA
The formal conservation journey of Etosha began on 22 March 1907, when Friedrich von Lindequist, the then governor of German South West Africa, proclaimed the area a Game Reserve No. 2 under Ordinance 88. The reserve originally covered 100,000 km2, stretching from the Kunene River in the north to the Omuramba Ovambo in the south – an area that, at the time, was one of the largest conservation areas in the world.
The goal was to protect the dwindling numbers of large game species that were being heavily hunted by settlers and traders. However, the size and management of the reserve would change significantly in the decades to come.
SHRINKING BORDERS, GROWING INTENT
By the mid-20th century, Etosha’s boundaries were gradually reduced due to pressure from farming, mining and settlement expansion. By 1970, the park had been reduced to its current size of approximately 22,912 km2 – still vast, but a fraction of its original extent.
In 1967, the area was officially renamed “Etosha National Park” under South African administration. Despite these changes, Etosha’s core value remained: to safeguard the biodiversity of the north-central savannah and salt pan ecosystems.
ECOLOGICAL SIGNIFICANCE
Etosha is home to over 114 mammal species, 340 bird species and more than 100 reptile species, including several that are endemic or near-endemic to the region. The stark contrast of its saline pan, mopane woodland and grassy plains create an ecological mosaic where highly adapted species thrive.
Photographs Louis Wessels
ENDEMIC AND NOTABLE SPECIES
• Black-faced Impala (Aepyceros melampus petersi): Found almost exclusively in north-western Namibia and south-western Angola, this subspecies is distinguished by its darker facial markings. Etosha provides a vital sanctuary for this rare antelope, which was once under severe threat due to hybridisation and habitat loss.
• Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra hartmannae): While not endemic to Etosha specifically, this subspecies is unique to Namibia’s mountainous regions and is sometimes spotted in the western parts of the park, especially around Dolomite Camp.
• Damara Dik-Dik (Madoqua kirkii damarensis): A subspecies of the Kirk’s dik-dik, this tiny antelope is endemic to Namibia and southern Angola. It thrives in Etosha’s dry thorn scrub, often found in monogamous pairs.
• Etosha Agama (Agama etoshae): A lesser-known but fascinating reptile, this lizard species is endemic to the Etosha Pan region.
• Blue Crane ( Anthropoides paradiseus): Namibia’s population of these elegant birds is extremely small, and Etosha remains one of the few places where they still breed.
A HAVEN FOR LARGE MAMMALS
Etosha is one of the best places in Africa to see the black rhinoceros ( Diceros bicornis bicornis ) in the wild. Thanks to decades of anti-poaching efforts and tight surveillance, Etosha has maintained one of the strongest populations of this critically endangered species, though the reality and continued threat of poaching remain prevalent. The park also houses healthy numbers of African elephants, lions, spotted hyenas, leopards and cheetahs, alongside diverse herbivores such as springbok, gemsbok, kudu and blue wildebeest.
The park’s numerous artificial and natural waterholes play a pivotal role in its conservation model, providing essential hydration during the long dry months and offering visitors some of the best wildlife-viewing opportunities on the continent.
MILESTONES IN CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT
1974–1980: Operation Noah’s Ark
As wildlife populations dwindled due to recurring droughts and overgrazing, a major restocking programme was launched. Dozens of species were relocated within the park to re-establish balance. This period also saw the development of boreholes and improved infrastructure.
1990: Namibian Independence
Etosha entered a new phase of conservation guided by Namibia’s constitution – one of the first in the world to include environmental protection (Article 95). Management began to focus more on community involvement and scientific monitoring.
2000s–present: Facing the 21st century
A growing emphasis on the use of technology in antipoaching and research collaborations has helped Etosha adapt to modern-day conservation challenges.
THREATS AND CHALLENGES
Despite its successes, Etosha still faces major challenges, including poaching, climate variability and human-wildlife conflict on its periphery. Conservationists also monitor the risk of disease transmission, particularly from livestock in buffer zones.
Continued funding, research and responsible tourism are vital. Visitors contribute not only through park fees but also by supporting the broader ecosystem of conservationbased employment and awareness.
A LEGACY TO PROTECT
Today, Etosha stands not just as a symbol of Namibia’s natural heritage, but also as a living example of how conservation has evolved, from fortress-style protectionism to integrated, ecosystem-based stewardship.
As you watch a lion yawn beneath a tree or see a flock of flamingos ripple across the shimmering pan after rare summer rains, know this: Etosha is what it is because people chose to protect it… and must continue to do so. TN
The Pan's Pink Pilgrimage E
tosha National Park, renowned for its stark beauty and vast white salt pan, is also home to one of Africa’s most extraordinary and seldom-seen wildlife spectacles: the mass breeding of flamingos. In this shimmering and seemingly inhospitable expanse, both Lesser and Greater Flamingos have adapted to thrive, bringing colour, sound and movement to the landscape when seasonal rains transform the pan into a shallow lagoon.
Flamingos are among the oldest surviving birds, with an evolutionary history stretching back nearly 200 million years. Their long legs, sinuous necks and unique upside-down bills are specialised for feeding in saline, nutrient-rich waters. Their honking calls, similar to those of geese, reveal their close relation to other waterfowl, but flamingos remain in a class of their own for spectacle and endurance.
The Etosha Pan, spanning nearly 5,000 km 2, is one of the few remaining sites in Africa where flamingos can breed successfully. These birds are highly selective and may wait years for the right conditions to reproduce. But when the rains fall at the right time, something remarkable occurs.
During these rare breeding events, the pan becomes a cradle of life. Thousands of flamingos gather after performing elaborate courtship rituals at coastal lagoons such as Walvis Bay. These displays involve head-flagging, synchronised marching and sudden wing salutes. At sunset, they take to the skies in long skeins, navigating by the stars as they head inland to Etosha. There, they use their specially adapted beaks to build conical nests from wet clay and lay a single egg.
Voice imprinting ensures that even in enormous groups of nearly identical, downy chicks, each parent can locate and feed its own offspring. Guided by their parents, the chicks march across the drying pan in huge groups known as kindergartens. They walk for weeks, covering up to 80 kilometres, often burdened by crusted clay, stalked by predators, and entirely dependent on their parents’ commitment.
In 1971, one of the most spectacular breeding seasons occurred, when more than a million flamingos arrived at Etosha. Of the 30,000 chicks hatched that year, an estimated 25,000 survived the gruelling journey to water. It was a powerful demonstration of endurance and the tenacity of nature.
The flamingos of Etosha are more than a visual marvel. They are living relics of a prehistoric world, symbols of resilience, and reminders of the fragile balance that sustains life in Africa’s wild places. TN
Scan the QR code for an insightful article from our archives by the late Hu Berry:
Photograph Annabelle Venter
Simplifying Life
PRIME LOCATION
Whether you're on business or exploring Namibia, CYMOT Hilltop has everything you need under one roof!
Conveniently located next to Grove Mall in Windhoek, we make shopping easy, hassle-free, and enjoyable.
Start your journey with the perfect cup! Fuel up with the rich aroma and bold avours of Slow Town Coffee, available in-store. From a quick espresso to a smooth latte, every cup is crafted to perfection.
VARIETY
Explore our wide range of products and services: Automotive
We’re open 7 days a week! Monday - Friday: 09:00 - 18:00
ETOSHA UNLOCKED
It begins with stillness. A lioness crouched in the golden grass, barely a ripple in the morning light. Nearby, a dust-coated elephant approaches a waterhole, flanked by a dazzle of zebras and an entourage of springbok. This is Etosha National Park, the shining jewel in Namibia’s crown, where every turn of the road unveils a wild adventure.
ELZANNE MCCULLOCH
Map of Etosha National Park with natural and artificial waterholes
We arrived just after sunrise, dust swirling in the early morning light. We had left Okaukuejo Camp just 15 minutes prior and headed eastwards for our first waterhole stop of the game drive – Nebrownii. Named after the acacia bushes that are predominant in this part of the park, the waterhole sits just below a slightly elevated rise on an otherwise massive open plain. Usually, when approaching, you cannot see game at the waterhole from the road or turnoff, unless it is a large mammal such as an elephant. However, irrespective of where you are in the park, a congregation of parked vehicles is always a sure sign of a great sighting. This morning, though, we were the first to arrive. At least in vehicles… Because, as we turned into the cul-de-sac lookout area just above the waterhole, a welcome surprise awaited us. A lioness languidly lapped water at the pool’s edge. Movement off to the left caught our attention as a large lush-maned male sauntered over. What ensued was a 30-minute-long display of “the birds and the bees” – a wild and sometimes slightly violent display of nature’s dance. After their candid performance, they glanced back over their shoulders at us and promptly ambled off. Our morning had barely started and the grand theatre of nature had already
Narawandu
Ozonjuitji m’Bari Sonderkop Duiwelsvuur
Louis Wessels
Louis Wessels
Adamax Panpoint
Grunewald
Okondeka
Wolfsnes Leeubron Natco
Sprokieswoud
Ongava Lodge
Okaukeujo
Salvadora Gonob Homob Aus Olifantsbad Gaseb Nebrowni Gemsbokvlakte
Ondogab Kapupuhedi Sueda
to Ondangwa
48km to the main road
KING NEHALE IYA MPINGANA GATE
Andoni
Mushara Kameeldoring
Stinkwater
Onkoshi Resort
Okerfontein Springbokfontein Batia Goas Nuamses
Noniams
Rietfontein Charitsaub
Helio Moringa Halali
Dungariespomp Gobaub
Tsumcor Aroe
Namutoni
VON LINDEQUIST GATE
Ombika
ANDERSSONS GATE
88km to Outjo
delivered, confirming my firm belief that no visit to Etosha goes unrewarded, and the reason why I will return time and again. We drove on to our next incredible sighting, wondering if perhaps we would encounter those felines again in future, with a crèche of cubs in tow.
After a long day of meandering along the park’s routes, waterhole hopping and ticking off mammals, reptiles and birds from our long list, we return to the gates at Okaukuejo just before the requisite sunset closure. The sky is slowly changing colour. Our first port of call? The famous Okaukuejo waterhole. It is dark by now, yet already a solitary black rhino is drinking at the floodlit waterhole, ripples echoing across the water’s surface through the still dusk. Silent, ancient, electric. Hushed whispered voices “ooh” and “aah” as wild and wondrous creatures make their way for an evening drink, one after the other. We sit in silence and stare. The air is chilly, and
we hunker down into thick jackets with a Stanley flask firmly gripped in hand. The contents may be coffee or red wine… Our fellow waterhole visitors will never know. And I reminisce on the many times I have sat at this waterhole, and the Moringa waterhole at Halali, sipping coffee or red wine, watching the theatre of the wildlife at night play out in all its glory. No matter the season, Etosha always delivers. My SD card in my camera is always full and my heart bursting with joy and contentment at the end of our journey.
Like most of Namibia, Etosha can be visited year-round, with different nuances and sightings to be enjoyed during different periods. But winter in Etosha is the peak safari season. As water becomes scarce, animals converge at the park’s iconic waterholes. For travellers, it means crisp days, epic game sightings, and front-row seats to Namibia’s greatest natural theatre.
Onguma Lodge
Mushara Lodge Mokuti Lodge
to Tsumeb
WHAT MAKES ETOSHA UNIQUE?
The salt pan: Spanning 4,800 square kilometres, the Etosha Pan is so vast that it is visible from space. Once a mere lake fed by the Kunene River, it is now a shimmering mirage – a white expanse that occasionally fills with rain and flamingos.
Diversity of wildlife: Home to over 100 mammal species, including four of the Big Five, Etosha is one of Africa’s top safari destinations. Expect to see lion, elephant, rhino (black and white), giraffe, jackal, hyena, cheetah and the elusive leopard – alongside countless plains game.
Waterhole safari: The true magic of Etosha lies in its waterholes. Sit. Wait. And watch life unfold.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Gates & Times
Etosha has four main entrances: Andersson Gate (south), Von Lindequist Gate (east), Galton Gate (west) and King Nehale (north). Gates open at sunrise and close at sunset. Do not get caught out – they are strict.
Camp Life
There are six rest camps inside the park: Okaukuejo, Halali, Namutoni, Onkoshi, Dolomite and Olifantsrus (camping only). Book early in peak season (June–October). Most have petrol, shops, pools and illuminated waterholes. There are a multitude of lodges and camps to choose from, situated at the park entrances and a short way off, with options for every traveller’s preference and budget.
Road Rules
• Speed limit: 60 km/h
• Stay on marked roads
• No off-road driving
• Never exit your vehicle outside designated areas
• Respect the silence of nature
Important to note: All national parks in Namibia have a strict NO DRONES and NO PLASTIC BAGS policy. Park officials will confiscate drones at the gate, from where you will have to collect them again upon exit.
Louis Wessels
ETOSHA’S TOP WATERHOLES
Okaukuejo: Best for night-time viewing. Rhino, elephant and lions visit after dark.
Moringa (at Halali): Secluded, quiet and perfect for leopards. Klein Namutoni (at Namutoni): Frequented by elephants and herds of plains game.
Nebrownii: Excellent for large elephant bulls and mixed herds.
Chudop: One of the most reliable spots near Namutoni.
Goas: Great birdlife, especially in the dry months.
Salvadora & Sueda: Fantastic for lion sightings on the open plains.
Louis Wessels
BIRDWATCHER’S PARADISE
THE HIDDEN GEMS
Olifantsrus Camp: The only camp offering camping only (no chalets). It has an incredible double-storey hide at the waterhole – perfect for photographers.
Fischer’s Pan: After good rain, this area near Namutoni fills with water and attracts flamingos, spoonbills and pelicans.
Dolomite Camp: Located in the remote western side, this camp feels like a private safari. Fewer tourists, but big game.
Andoni Plains (near King Nehale Gate): Ideal for large herds of zebra and gemsbok. Far from the crowds.
Etosha is not just about big game. With over 340 bird species, winter brings migratory specials and striking resident birds like the Lilac-breasted Roller, Bateleur, Kori Bustard and Secretarybird. Make sure to bring your binoculars.
Read more about birding in Etosha on page 38.
TIPS FROM THE PROS
• Get up early: Predators hunt at dawn.
• Bring your own snacks
• Pack your binoculars: They are essential, especially for the vast open plains.
• Check your fuel: Fill up at every opportunity.
• Keep the camera ready: With long lenses and patience, you’ll capture magic.
Louis Wessels
Louis Wessels
Namibia Wildlife Resorts
LESSER-KNOWN FACTS
• Etosha is malaria-free in winter.
• The park’s name means “Great White Place” in Oshindonga.
• Black rhinos are more commonly seen here than in most parks across Africa.
• The Etosha Pan occasionally turns pink with flamingos when seasonal rains are generous.
• It was declared a game reserve in 1907, making it one of the oldest in Africa.
In Etosha, you don’t chase sightings. You wait, and nature finds you.
WHY WINTER IS PRIME TIME
Winter in Etosha is a study in drama and contrast: crisp air and warm days, parched earth and the life it draws in, quiet roads and loud roars in the distance. Whether you are a seasoned safari-goer or a firsttimer, Etosha in winter is unforgettable.
So pack your camera, your sense of wonder and your love for wild places – Etosha is calling. TN
Louis Wessels
Spot the difference:
How to identify similar-looking species in the wild.
CHEETAH VS LEOPARD
Cheetah
• Tear marks: black lines from eyes to mouth
• Slender build, deep chest, small head
• Solid black round spots
• Hunts during the day, using speed
• Non-retractable claws
• Long tail with white tip Leopard
• No tear marks
• Stocky and muscular
• Rosette-patterned spots
• Nocturnal, ambush predator
• Retractable claws
• Excellent tree climber
BLACK RHINO VS WHITE RHINO
Black Rhino
• Pointed upper lip for browsing
• Smaller and more compact
• Prefers dense bush
• Head held higher
• Solitary and more aggressive
• Hooked lip shape
White Rhino
• Broad, flat mouth for grazing
• Larger and bulkier
• Found in open savannah
• Head held low
• More social
• Square jaw profile
STEENBOK VS DAMARA DIK-DIK
Steenbok
• Taller (up to 60 cm at shoulder)
• Large ears with dark centres
• Usually alone in open areas
• White belly and facial markings
• Tail more noticeable
• Straight-legged posture
Damara Dik-Dik
• Tiny and dainty (around 30 cm tall)
• Elongated snout, trunklike nose
• Moves in pairs in thickets
• Big eyes and short legs
• Very shy, quick to disappear
• Tail rarely seen
BAT-EARED FOX VS BLACK-BACKED JACKAL
Bat-eared Fox
• Huge, upright ears
• Greyish coat, dark limbs
• Smaller body and bushy tail
• Insectivore: feeds mostly on termites
• Often seen in pairs or small groups
• Moves with quick, darting motion
Black-backed Jackal
• Distinct black “saddle” on back
• Reddish-brown sides and legs
• Pointed face and upright tail
• Omnivore and scavenger
• More vocal: yips, howls
• Seen alone or in pairs TN
Louis Wessels
Louis Wessels
Louis Wessels
Matthew Walters
Liza
Lottering
A STAY AT MUSHARA’S PRIVATE VILLAS
ELZANNE MCCULLOCH
There are places that impress you. And then there are places that embrace you. Mushara Lodge, on the doorstep of Etosha National Park’s eastern gate, does both.
We visited in March, just after the rains had freshened up the landscape, and were welcomed by a world that immediately felt like home, though far more refined than anything we could conjure ourselves. From the first moment, it was clear that this lodge understands what true luxury means: not excess, but ease. Not formality, but thoughtfulness. At Mushara, beauty and warmth coexist in perfect balance.
The main lodge area sets the tone – airy, open and sophisticated without trying too hard. Sunlight filters through the high thatch roof, catching on carefully curated artefacts, warm woods and soft whites. The interiors are a masterclass in understated elegance. Large glass doors invite the outdoors in, and every corner seems designed for comfort and contemplation, from the sink-in sofas to the long communal tables dressed with wildflowers and wine.
And then there are the private villas.
Villa Mushara is a retreat within a retreat, only two exclusive villas that redefine privacy. Walking in, I felt an instant shift, as if I had entered a dream woven from safari chic and timeless style. The space is generous and fluid, with open-plan design and an abundance of natural light. A freestanding bathtub catches the eye, while woven textures, earthy palettes and layers of luxury create an atmosphere that is as grounding as it is indulgent.
The bed is a centrepiece, draped in gauzy white mosquito netting that gives it the romantic feel of an African fairytale. Beyond the bed, a cosy lounge area invites late-night reading or an early-morning coffee. Sliding glass doors open onto a private veranda where nature provides the only soundtrack: birds, a breeze and the occasional rustling of wildlife in the bush.
Mushara is the kind of place where the line between indoors and outdoors softens, where you can stand under a thatch roof and feel the rhythm of the wilderness just beyond. Each villa is cocooned in greenery, offering seclusion without isolation. You become part of the landscape but protected within a luxurious embrace.
What makes Mushara truly exceptional, however, goes beyond its stunning aesthetic. It is the atmosphere, intangible yet unmistakable. There is a sense of peace here, a stillness that settles over you. The staff are gracious and attentive, anticipating what you might need without being intrusive. They seem to take genuine pleasure in making your stay memorable, and their knowledge of Etosha adds depth to every conversation.
Days begin slowly. A long, lingering breakfast, perhaps, before heading into Etosha for a game drive. The proximity to the park means you can be at the Von Lindequist Gate within minutes, making early morning sightings of elephants, rhinos or lions entirely possible. And after a day in the wild, returning to Mushara feels like a homecoming. You are not just coming back to a lodge; you are returning to your sanctuary.
Evenings at the lodge are magical. The air cools, lanterns are lit, and a quiet hum of conversation floats from the dining tables. Meals are artfully prepared, featuring fresh local ingredients and clever pairings. But the true indulgence? Sitting beneath the stars in your villa’s private garden, drink in hand, listening to the night.
There is something timeless about Mushara. It is a place that does not try to dazzle with extravagance but instead offers something much rarer: a sense of belonging. And that, I think, is why it stays with you long after you have left.
Mushara is not just a stopover en route to Etosha. It is a destination in its own right. A lodge you dream about returning to even before you have left. For us, it was two perfect nights, but I can easily imagine staying a week and still not wanting to leave. Because some places feel like they have always been waiting for you. Mushara is one of them. TN
The Mushara Collection launched a spa offering on 1 March, based at Mushara Lodge. The spa has two treatment rooms with qualified massage therapists.
The Mushara Spa offers a simple treatment menu that consists of a variety of massages. Guests can choose between either a deep-tissue or aromatherapy massage, and enjoy a further choice between a relaxing, energising or detoxing oil to be used. The massage oils are all truly African oils such as baobab, marula and Kalahari melon. The spa partnered with Charlotte Rhys to ensure that only the highest-quality products are used. All products are environmentally friendly and endorsed by Beauty without Cruelty and the Vegan Society.
The spa can be booked at the various camps’ reception areas. Self-driving guests from Outpost and Bush Camp can travel the short distance to Mushara Lodge, while fly-in guests will be transferred to Mushara Lodge for their booked treatments.
For more visit mushara-lodge.com
The best base for birding Etosha
Pompie Halali
Pearl-spotted Owlets
Halali Camp
POMPIE BURGER
Pompie D
ifferent people, such as birders, have different ideas about their favourite birding spot. Etosha is no different. Some prefer Namutoni and the surrounding areas, especially Fischer’s Pan where thousands of water birds congregate to enjoy the food the pan produces once it fills up during the rainy season. My favourite camp by far is Halali, probably because I prefer a place where there are lots of different birds in the camp and at the surrounding waterholes.
I started off writing about Namibia’s potholes, in this case in Etosha. On my last visit, I was especially excited because many Namibians were very chuffed about the many different sizes and shapes of the potholes. One must mention that us Namibians are not that familiar with this phenomenon, as opposed to our neighbouring countries. Apparently, various engineers from the RSA, being specialists in this field of expertise, visited Namibia to study our own interesting potholes. Needless to say they were very disappointed by their size. They were especially sad because no wildlife or birds were populating these “waterholes”. They did make a few suggestions to enlarge the potholes, but the costs involved were too much for our minuscule budget.
Lanner Falcon Charitsaub waterhole
Halali Resort is situated in the middle of the park and subsequently boasts a vast number of beautiful mopane trees. For reasons unknown to me, a lot of birds prefer this vegetation, especially a lot of the endemic birds. I must confess the Namibian birders will find this observation a bit lame, having all seen and done them. You will hear the Bare-cheeked Babbler and see it cleaning up the camp grounds, while the Violet Wood Hoopoe rids the trees of unwanted insects and goggas This always fascinates me, and I spend as much time as possible watching and photographing them. Apart from their beauty, the White-crested Helmet Shrike and the Southern White-crowned Shrike are regular breeders in the camp. Carp’s Tit, another endemic, is not that common but we were lucky to spot a group on one of our visits. The Damara Red-billed Hornbill is very common in the camp, also involved in the cleaning team and easy to find. It is another endemic to tick for the ticker-birders.
For me, Halali is the owl camp. While roaming the camp with my camera, looking for birds and combing the trees, one of the cleaners once asked me if I wanted to see owls. Without wasting any time, he started to show me an African Scops Owl, a Southern White-faced Owl and the nest of a Spotted Eagle Owl. He was very apologetic about not finding the Pearl-spotted Owlet but promised to call me as soon as he sees one. One night we were fortunate to have a pair of Pearlies sitting in a tree right next to our bungalow feeding on insects attracted by the light close to our braai. Needless to say the meat was well-done.
The waterholes surrounding the camp are a haven for birding. The Charitsaub waterhole has on various visits – maybe, more accurately, on all occasions – provided raptors to make any birder ecstatic. The Acacia tortilis, the only tree near the waterhole, is a must stop and search. Red-headed Kestrels, Lesser Kestrels and a large group of Amur Falcons are just some of the tree-sitters during the summer. Incidentally, Pygmy Falcons also love this tree. And over many years this waterhole has been the breeding spot for the Blue Crane. It is such an unlikely place for them to occur. In fact it is the only place where they occur in Namibia.
Bare-cheeked Babbler Halali Camp
Lesser Kestrel Charitsaub waterhole
Violet Wood-hoopoe Halali Camp
African Scops-Owlet
Halali Camp
Pygmy Falcon Charitsaub waterhole
Damara Red-billed Hornbilll Halali Camp
Halali is not just a half-way stop between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, it is a must stop and overnight stay for any keen birder.
White-crested Helmet Shrike Halali Camp
The surrounding areas between the various waterholes obviously have a lot of nebrowniis. For the non-birding population: they are also known as LBJs (Little Brown Jobs). Interesting that there is a tree named after these birds, namely the Acacia nebrownii If all else fails you can do your LBJ birding here, and without any doubt you will be in luck and be able to discuss and differ from your fellow birders about the identification of your sightings around the campfire.
The Goas waterhole to the east of Halali – after you have ticked the leopard and the lions – is always an interesting birding spot. During late winter the Redbilled Queleas use to flock to this waterhole in their thousands to quench their thirst. If you have not seen this phenomenon you will end up spending the whole day there. They attract vast numbers of raptors, and this will just improve the experience with at least four different species of raptors. The Lanner Falcons are usually the main attraction during this frenzy. This also seems to be a happy hunting ground for the European Bee-eaters during the rainy season.
Another must visit is the Nuamses waterhole. If I were a Dorsland trekker I would definitely have settled down next to this waterhole and spent the rest of my life under a mopane tree with a beer and binoculars. Needless to say, many birds agree with my observation. I have seen some of the most exciting and rare birds there. Many a birder will be very angry – they are not jealous, they are angry – to know that I have seen a Eurasian Hobby, a Striped Crake and the odd leopard there. For the more knowledgeable birder there are usually Dust Chickens (Guineafowl) hanging around the waterhole, entertaining birders like my daughter by forever chasing each other.
Halali is not just a half-way stop between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, it is a must stop and overnight stay for any keen birder. Incidentally, the hills near Halali are the only point of real elevation in most of the park.
As for the pothole hunter, I am afraid that you will be disappointed, except if you are looking for those rare minute ones so common in Namibia. All humans have potholes, some fill it with sand, some with birds, others alcohol, some never fill them. Other people dig potholes for reasons unknown. TN
European Bee-eater Goas waterhole
Blue Crane Charitsaub waterhole
Eurasian Hobby Nuamses waterhole
THE WET EDGE OF ETOSHA
There is something surreal about watching water shimmer across a place known for its thirst. In the rainy season, Etosha sheds its dusty coat and takes on a new, softer form – especially at Fischer’s Pan, where the arid becomes aquatic and the wild finds wings.
ELZANNE MCCULLOCH
Fischer’s Pan lies on the eastern edge of Etosha National Park, near Namutoni. It is a seasonal extension of the vast Etosha Pan, and during the rains, from January through April, it transforms into a haven for waterbirds, its shores teeming with life and song. Where in winter the cracked salt crust bakes under the sun, summer delivers a silver sheen of water, drawing birds from across the continent.
We set out early from Mushara Lodge just outside Von Lindequist Gate, the sky low and moody with clouds. The road to the pan leads around the east of Fort Namutoni and is slick and rutted – the kind of track that hints at adventure. Soon enough it comes into view… Fischer’s Pan stretching out, its water level just deep enough to draw a flock of the feathered variety.
Black-winged Stilts wade in the shallows, their elegant red legs like brushstrokes across the water’s reflection. They move with precision, dipping and lifting, sometimes flaring into flight in choreographed spirals. Just past Twee Palms waterhole, the road cuts through the water-filled pan like a bridge across a sea. At the reedy edge of the water, flurries of movement catch our eye as our vehicle approaches. Black-necked Grebes, with their golden ear tufts glowing in the morning light, dart away from the roadside into the safety of the water. We slow down to inspect where they keep coming from, feeling impish that we are disrupting them from what seems to be rather important work. In the reed tufts along the bank that separates the inundated pan from the road, the grebes are tending to floating nests tucked into the marsh grass. Bright white eggs are on display. Having flitted off as we approached, they now slowly paddle back to their posts upon realising we are no threat. We watch quietly as they dive and resurface, climbing back on their nests – ever watchful, ever busy.
This part of Etosha is different in mood and pace. There are fewer tourists here in the green season, and the animals move to a different rhythm. Impala herds browse the bright underbrush, and a lone giraffe stands silhouetted against a storm cloud, unmoving, contemplative. Wildebeest and zebra move in and out of view, often half-concealed by the lush grass. The trumpet thorn bushes (Catophractes alexandri) sport their iconic white flowers.
But it is the birds that hold our gaze. A Saddle-billed Stork stands statuesque, knee-deep in the flooded pan. Whiskered Terns dance over the water’s surface, and flocks of Pratincoles wheel in erratic bursts. Flamingos breed here and in the neighbouring giant, the Etosha Pan. For a few months each year, the pans in Etosha become a sanctuary for these delicate lives. It serves as a reminder that Etosha is not only about elephants and lions; it is also about the intricate correlation between timing and transformation.
We completed the loop around the pan near Klein Okevi. And if the birdlife and plains game along our route were not reward enough, the most remarkable sight sat waiting for us on top of a termite mound…
Most photographers have a dream list – those singular shots they hope to get, even just once in their lives. For me, it was that iconic image of a leopard lounging in a camel thorn tree – which I was fortunate enough to get a few years ago at Okonjima Nature Reserve. My second was a photo of a cheetah posing on a termite mound.
A hard brake, the engine switched off. The kids, chattering away in the backseat, forgotten as I lifted my lens to the spotted feline before me.
Experience the thrill of Namibia’s wild with Hoada Campsite’s Rhino Sleepout - an unforgettable 2-night catered camping trip, tracking rhinos in the heart of Damaraland’s unspoiled wilderness.
Enjoy a quiet late afternoon, take a refreshing swim and watch the sun dip below the horizon, before you are treated to bush camp food and stories by Bob, the story teller.
Click, click, click. “Look Mamma, that cheetah is on an anthill,” Luka calls from the back. I turn and smile at him. “It sure is!” He ticks it off the animal checklist we keep in the car while touring through Etosha. I tick it off a list of dreams in my heart. The air smells of rain, earth and a world of wild possibilities.
Thunder lurks in the distance. TN
KHARUGU
A hidden gem in Omaruru KIRSTY WATERMEYER
Just off the main road in the charming town of Omaruru lies a hidden treasure: Kharugu’s small-scale miners’ shop. A place where authenticity meets craftsmanship, this sparkling gem of a store invites visitors to step into a world of unique gemstones, rare minerals and handcrafted jewellery – all sourced from Namibia’s licensed small-scale miners. It is an experience that is as much about supporting local artisans as it is about taking home a genuine piece of Namibian history.
HONOURING AUTHENTICITY
At Kharugu, each gemstone tells a story, whether it is about the rugged landscapes from which it was unearthed, the miners who painstakingly extracted it, or the artisans who transform it into wearable art. The shop is dedicated to offering only the finest, ethically sourced treasures from Namibian soil. By purchasing a gemstone or piece of jewellery here, you are directly supporting smallscale miners working in some of the most challenging conditions. These miners are fully licensed and recognised by Namibia’s Ministry of Mines and Energy, ensuring every item is both authentic and responsibly sourced.
Richie Auchas, the shop’s passionate manager, explains it best: “We represent the small-scale miners on a larger scale. Whether we’re helping them find buyers, selling on commission, or purchasing directly from them, we guarantee that every stone is genuine.” The seal of approval placed on each item is a mark of pride, reassuring customers that they are purchasing real Namibian gemstones, not glass or imitation stones.
While the shop offers an array of shimmering treasures, some pieces are sold anonymously to protect the privacy of certain miners. However, every item is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity, ensuring that buyers can feel confident in their purchase. For many visitors, this is more than just a souvenir; it is a connection to the people and land of Namibia.
A NETWORK OF ARTISANS
Beyond the miners, Kharugu collaborates with local artisans, many of whom have received specialised training in gemstone cutting. “We’re not just selling stones; we’re passing on a tradition,” says Richie. “We’re training the next generation of gemstone cutters, giving them the skills they need to carry on this craft. Some young people have even had the chance to attend cutting schools in Karibib.” By nurturing the growth of local talent, the shop ensures that the tradition of Namibian gemstone cutting will thrive for generations to come. This dedication to quality and craftsmanship means that each stone is transformed into a work of art – polished, shaped and ready to be worn as a unique piece of jewellery.
In addition to cutting stones, Kharugu works closely with local goldsmiths who create custom jewellery for clients. Whether you are looking for a specific design or have a vision in mind, the artisans will work with you to bring it to life. Each piece is unique, crafted with care and infused with the spirit of Namibia’s skilled artisans.
Kharugu’s commitment to sustainability goes beyond just showcasing beautiful stones; it actively contributes to the welfare of Namibia’s mining communities. The shop works with over 200 small-scale miners across the country, helping them access broader markets and supporting their economic growth. These miners work under strict government regulations to ensure that their operations are safe, ethical and sustainable.
“Supporting the miners and working with the youth is something I’m passionate about,” says Richie. “It’s not just about selling gemstones; it’s about contributing to the growth and development of local communities. The future of Namibian gemstones depends on it.” By providing a reliable market for these miners, Kharugu is helping to secure their livelihoods and ensuring that their practices remain sustainable for years to come.
A STORY IN EVERY STONE
Besides being a treat for the eye, every gemstone at Kharugu represents a piece of Namibia’s rich heritage. From the sparkling amethysts of the northern hills to the deep red garnets of the brown belt, these stones carry the essence of the land they come from.
For those who visit, Kharugu is not just a shop. It is an experience, and a chance to connect with Namibia’s people, culture and land in a way that is both meaningful and memorable. Whether you are looking for a one-ofa-kind gemstone, a custom-made piece of jewellery, or simply a story to take home with you, this shop offers it all.
As a traveller who has fallen in love with the incredible stones and the people behind them, I can wholeheartedly recommend Kharugu as a must-visit stop in Omaruru. Much more than merely a place from which to buy beautiful jewellery, it is an opportunity to support local artisans, honour the tradition of gemstone mining, and carry a piece of Namibia with you wherever you go.
To find out more, visit kharuguproject.com. TN
A journey into stillness and wonder
ANDERSSONS AT ONGAVA
SUNÉ VAN WYK
We arrived to the sight of a landscape transformed – lush, green bush thick with life, puddles still shimmering on the tracks, and trees heavy with the gift of recent rain. Though the earth was damp and the sky still heavy, the heat clung to the air. At the lodge, Anderssons at Ongava, ice-cold towels were handed to us along with a glass of homemade lemonade – a crisp, refreshing welcome against the warm weight of the day. Bags disappeared into capable hands while the landscape stretched out before us, antelopes grazing unfazed in the distance.
Though offered lunch, we chose instead to settle into the rhythm of the place. Our suite was a sanctuary – spacious yet intimate, with swinging chairs and loungers perched on a deck overlooking the waterhole. The textures spoke luxury without shouting: cool concrete underfoot, and the sturdy stone walls framed a space that blended effortlessly into its surroundings. A soft couch inviting an afternoon doze, and a hidden treasure – a tin of the most dangerously delicious cookies beside a coffee station stocked with hot chocolate, teas, and coffee, while ice-cold water waited in a flask.
Beyond the private deck, the world moved slowly – a jackal trotting across the horizon, a flock of birds scattering into the sky. Here, nature is not something you visit; it is something you become part of.
Curiosity pulled us toward the Visitor Centre, a beautifully curated space where knowledge pulses quietly, telling stories of lions, rhinos and the fragile threads that bind this
place together. The adjacent boutique offered tokens of memory – local, handmade and heartfelt – but it was the first game drive that truly wove us into Ongava’s magic.
Wrapped snugly in fleece-lined ponchos against the cool drizzle, we set off. The tyres whispered across wet gravel, the scent of damp earth rising in waves. Our guide, an anchor of calm and knowledge, led us deeper into the bush. A footprint here, a broken branch there – signs that, in less skilled hands, would have gone unnoticed.
When we disembarked to track rhinos and elephants on foot, adrenaline and awe mingled in the cool air. Every sense sharpened: the spongy surrender of wet soil under boots, the muted thud of an elephant’s step, the soft murmur of distant thunder. Around us, life unfolded. Giraffes melting into the trees, tiny frogs hopping between puddles, flowers glistening with raindrops like jewels.
Later, at a clearing brushed gold by the setting sun, a table with dried fruits, biltong and drinks of our choice was set. It was more than thoughtful; it was a quiet, intuitive luxury that became the theme of every moment here.
Dinner that night overlooked the waterhole where two rhinos emerged from the darkness, a silent shape stepping into the glow of a spotlight, its presence both awe-inspiring and gentle. Homemade bread rolls, still warm, were the first indulgence during a meal that felt both artful and generous – the plating deliberate, each flavour singing in harmony. Around us, the African night thickened, and somewhere close, a lion’s rumble stitched itself into the dark.
Mornings at Anderssons began with quiet rituals: rich coffee, the crinkle of pastry, the breath of dawn refreshingly cool against the skin. On our second game drive, the bush revealed more secrets: a rock monitor spotted by our guide’s keen eye, tiny praying mantises clinging to wet grasses, jackals darting across open spaces, zebra and wildebeest standing statue-still as the rain cleared.
Between excursions, time unfolded like a linen sheet billowing softly in a slow breeze. We spent languid hours in the hide near the waterhole, experiencing the thrum of life at eye level. The slosh of a terrapin slipping back into the water, the flash of a Lilac-breasted Roller’s wing. Elsewhere, poolside loungers and gentle laughter drifted over the sound of a bubbling water feature, cocktails arriving without rush or fuss, every detail thoughtful but never overbearing.
Friday night brought a different kind of magic. At Anderssons, Friday means Braai Night – a true Namibianstyle barbecue and invitation into the heart of Namibian culture. Beneath a vault of stars, guests and guides gathered around barrel fires, exchanging stories and laughter. Even the chefs brought their kitchen outdoors to join the circle, cooking over open flames and serving not just food, but a piece of home. Traditional dishes simmered in potjies (small, cast-iron pots used to make slow-cooked stews over open flames), filling the air with the rich, savoury scent of home-cooked comfort.
Hearty favourites like pap, wild spinach, grilled meats, and, for the adventurous, the chance to try traditional delicacies such as mopane worms.
Our final morning arrived too soon, softened by the early light filtering through the curtains. Robed in the quiet luxury Ongava provides (quite literally, in their beautiful wildlife-themed robes), we sipped coffee on the deck, the world waking around us while birds threaded their songs into the air.
As we packed and said our goodbyes, familiar faces smiled and wished us well, their warmth as much a part of the memory as the lodge itself. Even nature sent us a parting gift: a lion, impossibly majestic, squeezed into the smallest scrap of shade under a thick bush, keeping a lazy, golden eye on us as we passed.
Driving away, Anderssons stayed with us. Not just in memory, but in the shift it created within us. Ongava is the true meaning of absorbing the wilderness with all your senses. Here you listen, touch, smell, taste and see the very essence of nature. To its core. A reconnection to something older, quieter, more essential. A reminder that luxury is not always about what you can hold; sometimes, it is what you carry inside you when you leave. TN
Earth to Light
T heAlchemy ofStone
Lyrical, fluid abstraction. Curvilinear lines fall into spirals of perfect geometry. Shadows gather and leap, surfaces glimmer. Light bounces off the contoured stone, creating the illusion of movement and malleability. As the sculpture turns – some have been fixed on turntables and are gently spun by hand – a new interpretation is revealed. The sculpture itself seems to be nearly weightless, taking flight.
MADELEEN DUVENHAGE
Earth to Light is WHUDA Marble Art’s first solo exhibition at the National Art Gallery of Namibia (NAGN), featuring 18 original white marble statues. Each sculpture is deliberately displayed in its own “cubicle” – partitioned off by dark green dividers in a large, unadorned room – allowing for a slower, more meditative viewing experience. This thoughtful composition truly delivers: the particular allure of white marble in its soothing, ethereal state is all the more illuminated against the stark minimalism of the gallery’s empty space.
Architect Winfried Holze, founder of WHUDA (Winfried Holze Urban Design Architecture) Marble Art, recalls a moment in 2018 when, while working alone on a sculpture at an industrial site, he paused and thought to himself: “I am always working alone. Why not turn this into something bigger, something that adds value and promotes skills transfer?” That spark of inspiration led him to gradually expand his workshop, increasing its capacity and acquiring specialised Italian stone sculpting tools. Holze pressed on, placing an ad in the newspaper where he invited anyone interested in stone sculpting to join him. Only two people responded, but that did not stop them. Undeterred, they laid the foundation for a pioneering project, establishing three distinct categories of production: tourist articles (such as miniature rhinos and elephants), special commissions and their own personal artworks. Today, WHUDA Marble Art Namibia has evolved into a growing collective of emerging local visual artists, each exploring and developing their own authentic voice and style in the field of marble art.
WHUDA Marble Art is the only workshop in sub-Saharan Africa to make use of the distinctive characteristics of Namibia’s white marble stone. Holze explains: “Namibian marble is a hard, metamorphic limestone rock, which ranges from pure white to a variety of grey shades with veined patterns. Our marble is especially beautiful because the crystals within are fractionally larger than the more common Carrara marble, giving it a mystical transparency and a glimmering effect when placed in direct sunlight, enlivening the artworks and making them very special indeed.”
The raw material is sourced from near the small town of Karibib, where the largest sub-Saharan marble deposits are found. Salvaged from the quarry, WHUDA repurposes the offcut material, or so-called “rejects”, and this is where the creative and meticulous sculpting process begins.
I am told the strength of the marble lies in its overall surface thickness. Still, some of the sculptures have been expertly chiselled until nearly transparent. Held against the light, another layer of beauty unfurls.
These locally crafted works are shifting perceptions among both local and international audiences. In Namibia, art exports are typically expected to feature abstract clay masks, wooden or bronze sculptures, as well as woven textiles. Traditionally, stone has not been a preferred medium for many artists in Namibia. However, this exhibition seeks to change that perception. It offers a bold invitation to viewers to reimagine the overlooked Namibian marble in a different light – not only to be utilised for manufacturing terrazzo floors, kitchen tiles and tabletops, but a stone with an elevated, even magnetic purpose.
“Our goal,” Holze emphasises, “is to remain deeply rooted in Namibia.” The artists are careful not to just replicate Zimbabwean marble stone art – though there is much to learn from it – but instead, to root their creations in singularly Namibian spiritualism and mysticism. While Holze continues to mentor and guide the young sculptors from the sidelines, they are encouraged to explore their own authentic expression.
During the exhibition, I am introduced to local talents Isai Alfeus and Wolradt Sithole, both students from the College of the Arts. Also featured alongside them are William Chindoko and Kambezunda Ngavee. Each sculpture on display demonstrates the individuality and multifaceted imagination of its creator, from Alfeus’ smooth and flowing forms to Sithole’s convoluted, curved shapes. Together, these works embody the spirit of WHUDA: a collaboration of unity through the diversity of Namibian artists mastering their craft.
Travel With Us. Travel With A Purpose.
Step into a realm where conservation and tourism converge seamlessly – the N/a’an ku sê Ecotourism Collection. Immerse in a world of luxurious lodges and untamed marvels. Visit any of our establishments around the country and experience Namibia’s wildlife, landscapes, and culture while safeguarding its beauty.
N/a’an ku sê Lodge Peaceful lodge near Windhoek, supporting conservation and charity work.
& Co. Restaurant
Tasty meals, barista coffee, and a leafy kids’ playground.
TimBila Safari Lodge Stylish tented lodge offering luxury in the wild.
Luxury meets purpose, supporting San communities and rescued wildlife.
TimBila Private Villa Secluded luxury with waterhole views, great for families.
N/a’an ku sê Bush Camp Intimate camp in the nature reserve, perfect for relaxing and activities.
escape with epic views, starry skies, and great food.
TimBila Farmstead Farm-style fun with family-friendly activities and a playground.
N/a’an ku sê @ Utopia Hotel Chic boutique hotel in Klein Windhoek, ideal for couples, transit, and business.
and oasis near the desert, blending nature and romance.
Lianshulu Lodge Charming lodge in Bwabwata National Park, offering riverside luxury and game viewing.
Lianshulu Bush Lodge Secluded bush lodge near the Kwando River, perfect for quiet wildlife getaways.
Rooster
Harnas Guest Farm
Kanaan Desert Retreat Desert
Neuras Wine & Wildlife Estate Winery
TimBila Camp Namibia Relaxed riverside camp for families and nature lovers.
FUTURE DREAMS
Tapping into his background as architect and urban planner, Holze’s long-term ambition is to restore art to architecture in Windhoek and brighten (in a literal sense) the cityscape into streets dotted with original white marble installations. “We as sculptors have a responsibility towards our viewers – past, present and future,” he says.
WHUDA Marble Art Namibia are now exploring ways to diversify further by creating smaller, more mobile pieces –artworks that can sit comfortably on a living room table or be easily transported abroad as decor or collectibles. Next on their horizon is Cape Town, where the same sculptures will be showcased. The aim is to allow some time for traction, fostering local engagement and building awareness, ultimately introducing Namibian marble stone art to a broader, international audience.
LOCAL WONDER
While studying Isai Alfeus’ sculpture Infinity , my mind wandered back to my first introduction to marble statues over a decade ago in Florence, Italy. I remember standing before Michelangelo’s David, his ageless gaze towering over me in sombre veneration. This classic, colossal sculpture inspired awe, no doubt, but I felt like a stranger, aloof, gingerly peering in from the margins.
This time felt tangibly different. A closer, more familiar connection; an encounter steeped in the land itself. Purely, undeniably Namibian. TN
Travelling in the footsteps of a
conservation legend
Northwestern Namibia is not your average travel destination. In my two years of living like a desert nomad in this remote corner of the country, I encountered many self-driving tourists that would have benefitted greatly from an expert guide. From the Italian couple who couldn’t work out how to get the spare wheel off their car to replace a flat, to the Frenchman stranded in the Skeleton Coast, I was constantly reminded that this area could be dangerous.
GAIL THOMSON
Listening to Garth’s stories of his career in conservation would have made the trip worth it, even if I had seen nothing else.”
In my own travels, I often wondered which were the best tracks off the main road to explore in search of wildlife and scenic spots. Some of my questions were answered when I had the rare privilege of driving in a two-car convoy with the renowned Garth Owen-Smith in 2012. Garth knew the Kunene like a local – he had explored it thoroughly during his many years as a nature conservationist while helping to establish Namibia’s communal conservancies, which still operate today.
The weekend trip down the dry Huab River with Garth and his friends is one of my fondest memories of the Kunene. We were hot on the heels of a desert-adapted lion, which somehow managed to elude us. Yet the stunning landscapes and other wildlife we saw more than made up for the evasive lion. Listening to Garth’s stories of his career in conservation would have made the trip worth it, even if I had seen nothing else.
Garth’s legacy lives on since he succumbed to cancer in 2020, particularly through the efforts of his life partner Dr Margaret Jacobsohn. Margie continues to run a safari company that she and Garth helped to establish, known as Conservancy Safaris Namibia (CSN). This small company was structured differently to most tour operations. True to their values, Garth and Margie supported CSN because it is co-owned by the people living in five conservancies in the Kunene Region. Many of these ovaHimba and ovaHerero people worked with Garth and Margie during the early years of the community conservation movement, and a few of Margie’s personal friends remain to this day.
My first encounter with CSN (at the time, known as Kunene Conservancy Safaris) was during one of my stays at Wêreldsend (translated: end of the world). This aptly named camp and education centre is the Kunene field headquarters for the Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC), an organisation established by Garth and Margie. The camp is not open to the general public, and I was only there by special permission.
As I was sitting by my tent at Wêreldsend, I looked up to see the CSN team arriving in their 4x4 vehicle. This team goes ahead of their guests to set up camp – including large dome tents, comfortable bedrolls, portable showers and toilets. The chef started a fire and prepared the evening meal while the finishing touches were added to their impressive camp. Since I spent a lot of time setting up and breaking down camp in those nomadic days, I looked on their comfortable camp with more than a touch of envy. This only increased when I realised that their guests were on a multi-day expedition led by the one-and-only Garth Owen-Smith!
Garth left a gaping hole in the world of nature conservation that is difficult to fill. CSN’s expert guides have nonetheless taken on his community-based tourism efforts with aplomb. Boas Hambo, their main expedition guide, worked closely with Garth and well-known conservationist Russell Vinjevold for many years. Boas started his career in community conservation and has become an expert in his own right; he helped train many of the conservancy rhino rangers. Having grown up in the Kunene, Boas speaks all the local languages and navigates the rocky roads with consummate ease. His close connections with the people and the land are evident as he takes his guests to places that few other guides even know about. His expert translation allows you to talk to people and opens up a world you would never otherwise know exists.
While each CSN safari is tailored according to up-to-date knowledge of wildlife movements and the guests’ specific requests, the expedition would not be complete without a few nights at CSN’s iconic Etaambura Lodge. Made from local stone, canvas and thatch, the lodge and five en suite chalets are perched on a mountaintop that boasts stunning 360-degree views of the mountainous desert landscape.
The mountains in the Kunene are known for their unique plant species, and Etaambura’s location is no different. Since the lodge was built to make the minimum possible impact on the environment, these beautiful plants are still thriving along the pathways between the chalets and the main lodge. Each chalet and its private deck is situated to make the most of the views while fitting around the natural rocky outcrops.
Having heard about Etaambura from Garth but being unable to visit during my few years working in the region, I decided to make it a priority stopover when guiding some friends through the Kunene in 2015. It did not disappoint! After several days of driving – including some challenging 4x4 tracks – we were only too glad to rest for a few nights and absorb the views and absolute stillness of Etaambura. For guests who are used to light-polluted cities, the starry nights are simply astonishing.
One of the unique features of both CSN and Etaambura is their relationship with the ovaHimba. The staff are friends and family of the people living in the area, resulting in a guest experience with these famously ochre-red people that goes beyond a few posed photos.
During a recent trip to Etaambura with Margie, we met some of the people living in the small villages below the lodge. They welcomed us as friends-of-friends, rather than strangers from distant places. Our guide Henry introduced us to his mother and sister, who still choose to dress and live traditionally. They were only too happy for us to walk around their traditional village and take photos. Guests who want to spend more time with these enchanting people are welcome to book a traditional dinner with an ovaHimba family, or enjoy such a meal at the lodge, expertly prepared by Henry or by lodge manager Kakuu, a Himba woman who spent two years living in England. Her fire baked bread is unforgettable!
You are travelling in the footsteps of a conservation legend whose love for this special place and people lives on in the memories of everyone you meet.
Later that day, we met Henry’s friend and his young son trying to water their herd of goats. They were only too grateful to see Henry, who helped to haul water out one of the deep hand-dug pits in the river bed to fill the trough. The little boy did a fantastic job of herding, but hauling water out of the pit is a two-man job. This is a tough way of life, especially during the recent multi-year drought, yet these people are incredibly resilient and hardworking.
Touring the Kunene with CSN is an adventure of a lifetime. But it is even more than that – you are travelling in the footsteps of a conservation legend whose love for this special place and people lives on in the memories of everyone you meet. TN
To find out more about Conservancy Safaris Namibia, visit conservancysafarisnamibia.com.
Simanya River Lodge
Where the Journey Meets the River
There’s a stretch of Namibia where time slows down to the gentle rhythm of river flow, where the land hums with ancient culture and the sunsets seem to melt straight into the water. On the banks of the Kavango River, in the remote northeast, Simanya River Lodge has quietly redefined luxury in one of the country’s least explored regions.
A sister property to the beloved Droombos near Windhoek, Simanya carries the same commitment to excellence –only here, it is deeply rooted in the lush riparian landscapes of Kavango West. Just 13 kilometres from the border town of Nkurenkuru, and an easy six-hour drive from the capital along the scenic B15 “Timber Route,” Simanya is the only upmarket lodge within a 130km radius – making it a hidden treasure in Namibia’s untouched north.
Every suite and villa at Simanya faces the water, offering uninterrupted river views. Mornings unfold with mist rising off the Kavango, while evenings drift into fiery sunsets mirrored in the current. It’s not just picturesque – it’s soul-stilling.
Then there’s The Fancy Fisherman, Simanya’s signature pub. It’s where stories flow as easily as the local craft gin, where fireside meals turn strangers into companions, and where fishermen, travellers, and storytellers come together under a sky stitched with stars.
But Simanya is more than just a place to unwind. It’s an invitation to experience. River cruises glide silently past fishermen casting nets from dugout canoes, while curated dining on board transforms the water into a private venue. Fishing excursions are led by local experts aboard Simanya’s own boat, tailored for keen anglers. On land, guests can meander through nearby villages on guided cultural visits or enjoy picnic setups tucked away in scenic bends along the riverbank. For corporate groups or special events, the lodge offers curated experiences – from riverside banquets to intimate strategy sessions beneath the trees.
Not to be outdone, Simanya Basecamp caters to campers and overlanders looking for a blend of wild and wellequipped. Ten grassed campsites offer private ablutions and braai facilities, with a nearby supply store stocked with essentials – ice, wood, vacuum-sealed meat, and more.
Behind the scenes, Simanya’s logistics are as seamless as its scenery. Flight bookings, car rentals, and even crossborder arrangements for Angolan guests are handled with practised ease. Personalised welcome kits, branded amenities, and hand-selected guest gifts underscore the attention to detail that defines the Droombos ethos.
What Simanya offers is not just a lodge stay – it’s a threshold into a slower, more elemental Namibia. One where the river becomes a guide, the people a story, and the landscape a quiet reminder that some of the best journeys don’t end where the road does, but where the water begins.
In a country known for its deserts, Simanya River Lodge reminds us that sometimes, the richest stories are written where the land meets the flow of life itself. TN
And while Simanya may feel like a world apart, getting there is part of the magic. A journey that begins in the iconic landscapes of Etosha National Park can seamlessly flow into the lush tranquility of the Kavango. Travellers leaving Etosha’s eastern gate at Namutoni or Von Lindequist can connect with the scenic B15 — known locally as the “Timber Route” — a lesser-travelled road that winds through verdant woodland, traditional villages, and baobab-studded horizons. The drive itself becomes a continuation of the safari, trading wildlife for cultural encounters, and arid plains for riverside serenity. In just a few hours, you’ll swap elephant herds for dugout canoes and mopane trees for mangos, making Simanya River Lodge the perfect complement to a northern Namibian adventure.
FROM ETOSHA TO THE LUSH KAVANGO
Saving our seabirds
An expedition to Marion Island with BirdLife South Africa
In mid-December last year, an unexpected question from my sister led me to embark on an extraordinary journey, one that blended the thrill of exploration with a vital cause. I have always considered myself a landlubber, happiest wandering in bushveld, savannah and fynbos. Yet on 25 January this year, I boarded the cruise ship MSC Musica in Durban, South Africa with my sister and her husband, along with almost 2000 birders, conservationists and photographers. Together, we sailed towards an extraordinary destination, captured in two enigmatic words: Marion Island, a place that caught my imagination forty years ago.
But this was no ordinary cruise; it was a call to action.
ANNABELLE VENTER
Marion Island is the larger of two subAntarctic islands that make up the Prince Edward Islands and lies roughly 2,200 kilometres southwest of South Africa, halfway to Antarctica. Reaching 1,240 metres above sea level and covering three hundred square kilometres, it is also an active volcano, last erupting in the 1980s. In 1995 it was declared a special nature reserve – enjoying the highest form of conservation protection under South African rule – and remains the only such reserve in South Africa. It counts among the Ramsar Wetlands of International Importance and was also declared an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area. The primary goal of this seven-day journey was to raise critical funds for what the experts regard as the world’s most important conservation project for birds: the eradication of common house mice on Marion Island.
This, the second Flock to Marion expedition, was organised by BirdLife South Africa, a dedicated and highly effective conservation organisation, based in Johannesburg.
Leaving Durban Harbour on a steamy summer’s evening at 17:00, we were out of sight of land within minutes, surrounded by the open ocean. During the night, as we gazed down at the wake against the side of the ship, framed by inky blueblack seas under a dense, cloudy sky, our vessel cut across the busy shipping lanes, the only one heading south towards Antarctica. Normally, this route is only undertaken by the SA Agulhas II, a polar research vessel and icebreaker, but we were fortunate to be on a much larger and more comfortable ship, hosted by MSC Cruises. Due to its isolated position and restricted access, Marion Island is a destination few are fortunate enough to visit, a sanctuary of untamed beauty and extraordinary wildlife studied by the scientific community. But there is trouble in paradise.
The common house mouse was accidentally brought to Marion Island over 200 years ago when humans arrived to harvest seal oil. First recorded by a sealer in 1818, the mice now number more than a million and have eaten 90% of the invertebrates on the island, undermining the ecological processes and altering the environment. As a result, the mice turned to the next food source and are now eating the albatross chicks alive. More recently, they have started to target adult birds, along with many other bird species, and now threaten their survival. The albatrosses have not yet evolved to view mice as a threat or to fight back, since they find their food at sea and never on land. They simply sit on the nest, get eaten, become weaker and eventually die a tragic death.
Five house cats were introduced in 1949 to eradicate the mice, but someone forgot to sterilise the cats! By the 1970s, cat numbers had escalated to more than 2,000, and they were killing seabirds for food because they were an easier target, at the rate of 450,000 birds each year. Fifteen years of concerted effort by researchers living on the island eventually eradicated the cats.
The effect on the wildlife has been devastating. Seabirds such as the endangered Wandering Albatross, the longest-lived and furthest-flying bird species on the planet, are at risk of local extinction. A quarter of the global population of these majestic birds breed here in summer, and together with those on Prince Edward Island, number half the world’s population. The mice, therefore, need to be completely eradicated in a once-off operation.
THE MOUSE-FREE MARION PROJECT
This special-purpose project is a non-profit company set up in partnership between BirdLife South Africa and the South African Department of Forestry, Fisheries and
THE MOUSE PROBLEM
Cassie Carstens
Environment. Together with researchers, universities and other organisations, knowledge and expertise are exchanged freely to facilitate the best possible outcome for the project.
Execution of the plan requires meticulous planning. Helicopters and highly skilled pilots will be transported to the island by ship and stationed there until the right conditions arise. Winter offers the only viable six-to-eight-month period when the mice are hungry and the albatrosses and other seabirds are out at sea, minimising the risks to nontarget species. This window of opportunity needs to be utilised effectively before the seabirds return to breed in early summer.
Rodenticide will be spread across 30,000 hectares during two similar operations, ten to fourteen days apart, using spreader buckets and advanced mapping technology to ensure total coverage. Precision and over-engineering are key to success, backed by years of scientific research following the eradication of rodents on over 700 islands worldwide.
With US$30 million required, this project is a massive undertaking, but it offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to reverse the damage and safeguard the island’s seabirds for generations to come.
The purpose of our expedition was to raise much-needed funds for the Mouse-Free Marion Project and BirdLife South Africa, who manage the project. Participants were invited to sponsor land at R1,000 per hectare to contribute to the enormous financial effort required for the project. In addition to sponsoring a hectare (or more), on the final night of the cruise, a live auction featuring artworks, books, sponsored vacations and other contributions brought the total raised to an astounding R9 million, a testament to the collective determination of those on board.
EDUCATING OURSELVES TO BECOME AMBASSADORS FOR THIS CAUSE
The on-board lecture programme kicked off within two hours of leaving Durban, with the project manager of Mouse-Free Marion, Dr Anton Wolfaardt, detailing the reasons for the trip. Conservationists, photographers, birding experts and other professionals involved in the project shared insights about Marion Island, its ecological importance and the conservation goals of the expedition.
Fascinating presentations, three to four times a day for the first two days at sea, allowed everyone to learn more about the destination and its unique challenges.
Undoubtedly, the highlight for many was the presence and lectures by the project’s first patron, the much-loved and respected seabird expert and guide, Peter Harrison MBE. Now 78 years young, this remarkable gentleman left a stable job in the UK at age 27 to travel the world to compile the first definitive guide to seabirds. An accomplished painter, he illustrated his book as he went, and has continued to travel the world, including more than 200 trips to the Antarctic. He still works hard at guiding birding expeditions and raising awareness worldwide alongside his wife, Shirley Metz (who was the first woman to ski overland to the South Pole). The updated version of his book required a further 16 years, an extra artist and a text editor to complete and has recently been published. Adventure is in their DNA, and their achievements are nothing short of remarkable.
Marion Island’s importance cannot be overstated, emphasising the necessity of preserving its unique ecosystem. We were informed before the trip that the ship was not permitted to venture closer to the islands than 12 nautical miles (22 kilometres). We understood the reason for this being to prevent further contamination. In addition, South Africa does not want to set a precedent for other cruise ships that might not have the insight as to why they won’t be allowed on the island.
TWO DAYS AROUND THE ISLANDS
Monday the 27th of January, the third day of the trip, turned out to be an unforgettable one. As the decidedly chilly dawn broke around 03:30, a quiet and excited anticipation filled the air. We lined the decks of the massive cruise ship, scanning the endless expanse for seabirds. I caught sight of Prince Edward Island, rising from a peachy-coloured mist-covered sea, mystical and fleeting, exactly as I had imagined. The sheer scale of the ocean was overwhelming, and from my cabin on the 11th deck, grasping the size and distance of the birds below felt impossible. It is a wild, windy and wet location set in the Roaring Forties, but we were blessed with lots of sunny weather during the first day. As we approached Marion Island, snow was visible on its highest peaks and valleys. We learned later that just 24 years ago, an iceberg was photographed offshore, a sight not seen again due to climate
warming. We spent the day drifting slowly around the islands, heading further away for the night to avoid attracting birds to the ship’s lights, before circling the islands once more the following day, then departing back to South Africa.
Giant Wandering Albatrosses soared overhead and alongside the ship, circling the boat with effortless grace. Masses of seabirds swooped and glided in the ship’s turquoise, foamy wake. What struck me most was the silence; unlike the raucous calls of seagulls, these birds moved like ghosts, barely making a sound.
A personal highlight was identifying seven species of albatross. The Sooty Albatrosses, flying past in twin formation like fighter jets while eyeing us on deck, were breathtaking. But it was the Lightmantled Albatross that captivated me most, not because it is Peter Harrison’s favourite bird, but because I knew that just 350 pairs breed on the island. Seeing one among the estimated 700 individuals in this vast sky felt like an extraordinary stroke of luck. Prions filled the quiet hours when albatrosses were elsewhere, and the dainty Blackbellied Storm Petrel trailed its tiny foot across the surface of giant swells to agitate prey. Now and then, a raft of seabirds gathered on the surface as albatross, skuas, and Southern Giant Petrels descended onto the water to fish for food.
Spotting penguins from even the lowest deck was more difficult, but the bird expert spotters helped immensely! King, Macaroni, Gentoo and Eastern Rockhopper Penguins were seen by many, a truly thrilling sighting. We stood frozen and transfixed by the spectacle (glühwein in hand for some), while seabirds swirled around us and spray splashed onto the seventh deck. Often the sea was still and mesmerising, the
colour of liquid sapphire. At other times, steely grey and savage with huge breaking waves. This glimpse into another world, so far removed from our own yet so affected by our actions, was humbling, breathtaking, unforgettable and an extraordinary privilege.
WHAT ABOUT PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND?
The little brother of Marion Island has mostly escaped infiltration of invasive species by limiting human access to a small research party once every five years. Many of the researchers stationed on Marion are taunted by the sight of this little island always on the horizon, knowing most will never get the chance to see it. But for those that do, a pristine wilderness awaits. Just 4,500 hectares in size and 670 metres above sea level, it is also a volcano, but less active and probably older than Marion. It boasts the highest density of breeding albatross in the world, particularly Grey-headed and Indian Yellow-nosed Albatrosses. These two species favour the cliffs for nesting, while breeding areas lower down are popular with the Light-mantled Albatross, Wandering Albatross, Northern Giant Petrels, Burrowing Petrels, Sandwich and Fairy Prions to name just a few. On the shorelines, King, Gentoo, Macaroni, and Eastern Rockhopper Penguins abound, as well as sea mammals such as Southern elephant, Antarctic and Subantarctic seals.
SPREADING THE MESSAGE
Joining this expedition has made us all ambassadors for the Mouse-Free Marion Project. What struck me most was, firstly, the enthusiasm of the young participants, their awe and deep understanding of the crisis they will inherit. The second was the passion of all who gave lectures and the emotion they revealed during their
presentations. It is the dream of many researchers to work there, and they have an acute personal understanding of the tragedy unfolding around them. When Peter Harrison was asked why all the presenters became so emotional during their talks, he too paused, eyes full of emotion, and shared that it is a spiritual place that has changed his life.
I have heard many participants comment that the trip was life-changing and have been pondering my own response. For the first time, I grasped the vastness and vulnerability of the Southern Ocean, and indeed the planet, in a way that I suspect no journey on land can truly convey. Here, there was simply nobody at all, except of course the ship and its passengers. During two and a half days of steady travelling before reaching Marion Island, a blip in the ocean halfway to Antarctica, we crossed paths with only one container ship in all that time: a gut-wrenching reminder of our consumerism and the resulting waste. On several occasions, I saw plastic drifting past, stark evidence that even here, human impact lingers. Watching seabirds live freely in such an untamed world was breathtaking, yet knowing that an invasive species introduced by humans centuries ago is now threatening their survival is devastating.
What damage are we causing today that won’t be understood for another 200 years?
WHY WE SHOULD CARE:
• 19 of the 29 bird species on Marion Island will become locally extinct if invasive mice are not eradicated.
• There are broader implications for global conservation efforts (e.g. protecting albatrosses from deadly fishing lines) that will help to save our seabirds, keeping the ecosystem and biodiversity intact, and ultimately save our oceans and us.
• The success of this mission can inspire similar initiatives worldwide and add to the global knowledge on invasive species eradication. A similar project was attempted unsuccessfully on Gough Island a few years ago, and the hope is that with the knowledge gained, this operation will succeed.
As Dr Anton Wolfaardt says:
“It’s a once-off operation, with a potentially permanent result and is crucial for the conservation of the island’s birds. We have a unique chance to turn back the clock.” TN
www.mousefreemarion.org www.birdlife.org.za
THE ALBATROSS: A BIRD LIKE NO OTHER
“4 genera and 22 species! Did you remember?” is how Peter Harrison began his lectures! According to him they “outlive and outfly everything else”.
Wandering Albatrosses (previously called Snowy Albatrosses) can fly up to 13.5 million kilometres in their lifetime – that’s 35 times to the moon and back. The wingspan of the Wandering Albatross measures up to 3.5 metres across and they glide at sea for 8 months at a time, only landing on the water to fish and eat. In flight, hey hardly flap their wings at all, using the updrafts from the ocean to stay aloft.
The adult pair mates for life, and they lay a single egg every second year. The incubation period is around 76-84 days, then the chick is fed on the nest for about 270 days. The adults take turns in 8-14 day shifts out at sea, fishing for food to bring back to the hatchling. One day, the adults decide they’ve done their best and simply leave the chick, never to return and the juvenile is forced to take its first flight. Thereafter, the fledgling spends 8-10 years at sea before returning to Marion Island to find a mate and begin the cycle again. The oldest known and observed albatross is called Wisdom (a Laysan Albatross) and hatched her latest chick in February this year, at 74 years of age!
Marion Island hosts more than 25% of the world’s Wandering Albatrosses during the summer breeding season. Together with Prince Edward Island they make up 50% of the breeding sites for all Wandering Albatrosses. Because of this, the current plight of the Wandering Albatross and the assault on the hapless chicks are of grave concern. To make matters worse, a deadly strain of avian flu was confirmed on the island a couple of months ago, further putting this already vulnerable island’s birds under severe stress.
Status: Endangered
New culinary offering at Kristall Kellerei Savouring Namibia
KIRSTY WATERMEYER
Omaruru, a town known for its thriving art scene and artisan craftsmanship, offers a delightful stop for travellers seeking something unique. As you arrive, you will immediately notice the strikingly large sculptures that line the streets. They form part of the Tikoloshe Root Carving Project – an artistic expression that captures the spirit of this creative community.
But Omaruru’s appeal does not end with art; it is also home to Kristall Kellerei, the local manufacturer of gin and brandy and one of only four wine producers in the country. For seasoned wine lovers and those looking to experience something special, Kristall Kellerei has always been a major attraction. Established in 1990, shortly after Namibia’s independence, the winery grew into a beloved spot offering wine tasting, informative tours and a peaceful atmosphere close to the Omaruru River. Now, thanks to the recent addition of a talented new chef, there is another compelling reason to visit.
A CULINARY TRANSFORMATION
On a recent visit to Omaruru, I had the pleasure of meeting Karin le Grange, the executive chef at BASIC – The Culinary Studio, located on the main street of the town. It was during this visit that I got to sample Karin’s lamingtons, which were, without a doubt, the most delicious I have ever tasted.
Karin is an accomplished chef with a proven track record in the hospitality industry. Her expertise spans catering, restaurant management, food and beverage operations, baking and employee training, earning her a well-deserved reputation for excellence. A graduate of Granger Bay Hotel School in Cape Town, Karin was also named Namibian Senior Chef of the Year in 2008. With a wealth of experience behind her, Karin decided to return to her roots and settle in the town of Omaruru to pursue her dreams and bring her culinary vision to life.
BASIC started in January 2023 from Karin’s home kitchen, and by February 2024 she opened the doors to her charming shop on Omaruru’s main street. With a focus on delicious, home-cooked meals, BASIC quickly became a hub for both locals and tourists. In addition to serving mouthwatering dishes, BASIC offers a variety of cooking classes and fine dining events. Karin follows the ethos of “starting with the basics and working your way up”.
Another area where Karin has made a name for herself is with her speciality cooking classes, where anyone can come and learn the fundamentals of cooking. This has become particularly popular with international tourists wishing to learn how to prepare various cultural meals such as Afrikaans, German and Namibian staples, including traditional dishes from indigenous ethnic groups. After all, what better way to learn more about a country than to learn about their food?
These classes, tailored for all skill levels, dive deep into the art of culinary magic. Whether it is baking sweet treats or preparing hearty stews, Karin’s goal is to share the basics of great food with all who walk through her doors.
A NEW CHAPTER AT KRISTALL KELLEREI
In January this year, Karin embarked on a new chapter, taking over the restaurant at Kristall Kellerei. “Kristall Kellerei is already known for its wine and Namibian gin tastings, and I’m thrilled to be a part of its next chapter,” she says. “The venue is absolutely beautiful, situated just 3 kilometres outside of Omaruru on the D2328 road. We are open seven days a week, catering to self-drive tours, small bus tours, or any special event, including intimate weddings. In addition to these offerings, we’re now hosting our own restaurant evenings, where we prepare a five-course dinner for a truly unique experience.”
Guests visiting Kristall Kellerei can look forward to flavourful meals, carefully paired with the winery’s exceptional wines, comprising their own vintages and a selection of South African wines. Karin’s new menu combines Namibian culinary traditions with international influences, offering a fresh, creative approach that emphasises the connection between food, wine and the stunning natural environment. Here you can enjoy a meal under the shade of trees in tranquil surroundings.
“The combination of beautiful landscapes, exceptional wines and locally inspired food is what makes this place so special,” Karin explains. “It’s a place to slow down, savour the flavours and truly appreciate the culture and beauty of Namibia.”
With its new culinary offering, Kristall Kellerei is poised to become a must-visit destination for food lovers, wine enthusiasts and travellers seeking an authentic Namibian experience. Whether you are coming for a leisurely lunch, a special event or a unique cooking experience, there is a certain magic that Karin has infused into Kristall Kellerei that will make you want to return time and again. TN
WHAT A SIGHT-ING!
Location: Klein Okevi Waterhole Photographer: Louis Wessels
Early light. Still cool. Silence.
Then, a flash of grey. African Wild Cat at the water’s edge.
Stalking. Low. Deliberate.
Namaqua Sandgrouse flutter in for a drink. Too many to track. He chooses one.
First pounce – miss. Dust and feathers. Try again.
Second lunge – too slow. But he’s patient.
Third time – contact. A burst of wings. Victory.
He trots off, prey dangling from his jaws like a trophy. Wild and proud.
Doesn’t stop. Doesn’t gloat. Next target: weaver.
Launches himself skyward – paws splayed, eyes locked. Missed by inches.
No time to sulk. He’s back in position. Calculating.
Then everything shifts. A lion steps in. Quiet.
The cat freezes. Tense. But calm. They lock eyes. Size meets strategy. King meets hunter.
A moment. Then, wisely, the little predator slinks off.
