Travel Namibia Spring 2025

Family adventures in Namibia Green Khaudum National Park

WELCOME TO NAMIBIA

TRAVEL WELL

TRAVEL SAFE

CLIMATE AWARENESS

• Hot days, cold nights pack light clothes and warm layers.

• Hydrate regularly desert conditions can dehydrate quickly.

• Always use sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses.

ROAD SAFETY

• Drive on the left.

• Gravel roads require slow, careful driving.

• Avoid driving at night-wildlife is often active.

• Ensure your vehicle is roadworthy and carry a spare tire and fuel.

PERSONAL SAFETY

• Keep valuables out of sight, especially in urban areas.

• Avoid isolated areas at night. Respect local customs and traditions.

• Ask permission before photographing people.

Only use accommodation and shuttle services registered with the Namibia Tourism Board (NTB)

• All lodges, guesthouses, and transport providers must have valid NTB registration.

• You have the right to request proof of registration.

• Look for the official NTB certificate at reception or ask your shuttle driver to show registration.

• When unsure, check or report with NTB

WILDLIFE SAFETY

• Do not feed or approach wild animals.

• Remain inside vehicles in game parks.

• Store food safely when camping and follow park rules.

HEALTH & EMERGENCIES

• Travel insurance is essential.

• Take malaria precautions when visiting the north.

• All-round emergency: 10111 or 999 or 112 and MVA National Accident Response: 9682

GENERAL TRAVEL TIPS

• Currency: Namibian Dollar (NAD) – equal to South African Rand (ZAR).

• Language: English is official; local languages and Afrikaans are widely spoken.

• Help us protect Namibia’s beauty – leave only footprints.

City of Windhoek police

Emergency services: (24hr) 061 211 111

Crime prevention: Windhoek city

+264 (0) 61 290 2239 +264 (0) 61 290 2018

Toll-free number: +264 (0) 61 302 302

Ambulance: 10177

Fire Brigade: 998

Med Rescue

+264 (61) 249777

+264 (61) 230 505/6/7

Emergency Rescue 24 084 124

Lifeline 086 132 2322

Crisis Response

+264 81 881 8181

+264 61 303 395

is published by Venture Media in Windhoek, Namibia www.thisisnamibia.com

Tel: +264 81 285 7450, 5 Conradie Street, Windhoek PO Box 21593, Windhoek, Namibia

EDITOR Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na

PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na

PRODUCTION & LAYOUT Liza Lottering liza@venture.com.na

CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na

TEXT CONTRIBUTORS

Elzanne McCulloch, Kirsty Watermeyer, Pompie Burger, Madeleen Duvenhage, Anja Denker, Chris Botha, Marita van Rooyen

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Kirsty Watermeyer, Suné van Wyk, Pompie Burger, Elzanne McCulloch, Anja Denker, Louis Wessels, Chris Botha, Marita van Rooyen, Shawn van Eeden, York Duvenhage

Travel Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.

Industry partners:

Spring 2025

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Welcome to Namibia, the land of wide open spaces. We offer the planning of your Namibia vacation, regardless of group size or vehicle type. We look forward to welcoming you personally at Windhoek Int. AP.

Pick from a variety of tour offers or have your personal tour worked out accordingly; decide either to self-drive or worry less and have your tour be accompanied by an experienced professional tour guide (English, French or German speaking). Any more infos to find on our website join-us-in-namibia.pro

Please feel free to ask any question arising directly via email info@join-us-in-nambia.com

WITH CHILDLIKE WONDER

There is something about travelling with children that stretches the heart. Yes, it’s chaotic, car seats crammed with toys, snack packets rustling, and constant cries of “are we there yet?”, but it is also filled with a sense of rediscovery. Through their eyes, Namibia becomes new again. A simple giraffe at a waterhole feels like a first-time wonder, a dusty roadside stall a place of pure fascination. They remind us to pause, to look closely, and to find magic in the ordinary.

This spring, we celebrate that spirit of family adventure. Photographer Chris Botha road-tests the reality of family travel, with all its humour and hiccups, and shows us (through his tender, nostalgic lens) why it’s worth every tantrum. Marita van Rooyen shares toddler-led escapes in the Kalahari and playful “boulder crawling” in the Erongo, where a child’s curiosity shapes the day. At Onguma Bush Camp, I was reminded that safaris are not just for grown-ups; their Young Explorer’s Walk proves that even the smallest travellers can be true adventurers.

We also shine a spotlight on stories that pass travel wisdom between generations. In “Boytjie Birding,” seven-year-old Ian Burger shares his birding trip with his grandfather Pompie – a delightfully honest reminder that children notice things we sometimes overlook.

Beyond the family theme, you’ll find us drifting through the Kavango and Zambezi’s rivers, Anja Denker captures Khaudum’s green embrace, and we celebrate the revival of a much-loved Namibian tale, Leonard the Land Rover

Wherever you travel this season, whether with children or simply the childlike wonder within yourself, may Namibia fill your heart with stories worth keeping.

With love from Namibia,

@elzanne_mcculloch

The World is Big When you are Small Travelling with children transforms every journey into a grand adventure, where even the smallest discoveries become moments of wonder and lifelong memories.

Image: Elzanne McCulloch

FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @thisis_namibia

Etosha Pan filled with water - Our favourite place in Namibia during the rainy season.

CONTENTS

TINY HUMANS, BIG ADVENTURES p12

Family travel is messy, chaotic… and absolutely magical. Photographer Chris Botha shares survival tips and tender moments from the road.

LEONARD THE LAND ROVER p37

A revival of Dr. Conrad (Nad) Brain’s beloved desert fable – with new illustrations by Nicky Marais.

BOYTJIE BIRDING p38

Seven-year-old Ian Burger joins his grandfather Pompie for a birding adventure in Mahango – and tells the story in his own words.

NATURE’S GREEN EMBRACE p54

Anja Denker discovers Khaudum National Park transformed into lush wilderness after the rains.

THE CURRENT OF LIFE

| How rivers in the northeast teach us to slow down and see the world differently.

GROOTBERG LODGE

SHIPWRECK LODGE

ONDUDU SAFARI LODGE

WHEN LUXURY IS THE DESTINATION

Experience the ultimate in luxury with Westair’s Private Charter flightsseamlessly taking you to any destination in Namibia and beyond.

BUSH TELEGRAPH

News from the tourism industry

OCCUPANCY RATES SPARK DEBATE: VALUE VS. VOLUME? SOURCE - HAN

Namibia’s room occupancy stats for July 2025 showed just under 59% average occupancy, based on 60+ submissions to the Hospitality Association of Namibia (HAN). But beyond occupancy rates, tourism leaders are asking bigger questions: Is success about volume or value? Industry experts argue that destinations across Africa, including Namibia, must shift focus to measuring tourist expenditure, not just arrivals. Comprehensive data collection, like exit surveys and spend analysis, is key. “Tourism’s true power lies in what each traveller brings to the economy,” notes strategist Mike Fabricius. HAN urges members to contribute their stats to ensure more accurate insights –and tell the story of Namibia’s tourism impact in full.

WINGS OF CHANGE: WOMEN IN AVIATION

NAMIBIA TAKES OFF

The Namibia Airports Company officially launched the Women in Aviation Namibia initiative in August – a bold step to break barriers in one of the country’s most maledominated industries. Speaking at the launch, NAC board deputy chair Elize Petersen stressed that with just 5% of pilots globally being women, “the age of limitations is over.” The initiative will focus on recruitment, mentorship, and industry partnerships to foster careers in piloting, engineering, air traffic control, and aviation management. Celebrating local pioneers like FlyNamibia’s all-women crew and Defence Force pilot Linea Nakete, the platform promises scholarships, school outreach, and inclusive hiring. “Diversity makes us stronger,” said Petersen.

REGIONAL CONSERVATION GAINS MOMENTUM AT KAZA TFCA MEETING

Namibia’s Minister of Environment, Forestry and Tourism, Hon. Indileni Daniel, joined senior officials at the 15th KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area Ministerial Meeting in Livingstone, Zambia, on 22 August. The high-level talks covered cross-border conservation, climate resilience, and sustainable tourism across the five partner states. Zimbabwe took over the two-year KAZA Chairpersonship, with Hon. Dr. Evelyn Ndlovu calling for deeper regional collaboration. Key updates included an Integrated Elephant Action Plan, a new Carnivore Conservation Working Group, and official recognition of KAZA as an international organisation by Botswana. Namibia’s University of Science and Technology also announced the creation of a KAZA research programme. The EU pledged €5 million in support of conservation and development in the region.

NEW LODGE COMING TO NKASA RUPARA NATIONAL PARK

Natural Selection has announced the May 2026 launch of Nkasa Linyanti, a new conservation-rooted luxury tented lodge in the lush Zambezi wetlands. Nestled on a private island in Nkasa Rupara National Park – where Namibia meets Botswana – the new lodge promises immersive safaris in one of the most biodiverse corners of Southern Africa. To celebrate the opening, guests booking three nights or more will enjoy complimentary return transfers from Kasane. Think sweeping views, untamed wilderness, and wildlife at your doorstep...this is conservation hospitality at its finest. TN

Pack Snacks, Not Expectations

Tips and visual memories of travelling with kids, by photographer Chris Botha

a Kunene adventure with the kids

TINY HUMANS, BIG ADVENTURES

Travelling with kids isn’t always what you’d call a holiday. It’s more of a full-blown logistical operation, fuelled by wet wipes, snack breaks and a whole lot of patience. Between tantrums and toilet stops, it’s easy to forget that you’re supposed to be relaxing. But here’s the secret: with the right mindset (and let’s be honest, a decent glass of wine at day’s end), family travel can be wildly rewarding. It’s chaotic, yes, but it’s also filled with moments of unexpected joy, breathtaking wonder and the kind of messy, no-filter memories you’ll treasure forever.

On a recent family adventure to the lush corners of Epupa Falls and rugged Damaraland, Chris Botha road-tested the highs, lows and hilarious in-betweens of travelling with little humans. Here he shares a few survival tips that might just save your sanity and help you enjoy the ride.

• Expect it to be very hard… and then be pleasantly surprised when it’s only moderately chaotic. Build some wiggle room into your itinerary. Rushing kids is a fast track to everyone turning into cranky little gremlins (grown-ups included).

• For long car rides, pack way more snacks than seems reasonable (think buffet-on-wheels). Audio stories, podcasts and music are lifesavers. Take turns choosing songs, as it will keep the backseat DJ wars at bay. Make sure to pack colouring books, small Lego kits, lacing boards, fidget toys (those pop-it bubbles are pure gold – our two-year-old loved them) and anything squishy. We handed them out one at a time, every hour, to keep the magic alive.

• Perhaps most important of all: bring the grandparents along. Or travel with friends who also have kids.

• Sync up with the toddler tempo – slower, sillier and endlessly fascinated by ants. Through the eyes of a kid, you might just find the whole trip... fun! Maybe even relaxing. Oh, and yes, start drinking at lunch.

ESSENTIAL PACKLIST FOR TRAVELLING PARENTS

• Wine (boxed, bottled, doesn’t matter – just bring it!).

• Mozzie bracelets, those non-toxic ones that go around tiny ankles and smell vaguely of citronella and hope.

• Sunscreen plus a make-up brush – let them paint each other with the sunscreen. Another trick is to tell them that everywhere the sunscreen touches their skin, it makes them invisible to grown-ups.

• Patience. Then double it. Then double check again just in case you forgot it.

THE EDITOR ON CHRIS’ PHOTOGRAPHY

Chris Botha’s photography feels like a love letter to memory itself: tender, sun-warmed, and deeply human. His nostalgic documentary style doesn’t simply capture moments; it preserves them with the weight of lived experience. Every frame is rich with subtle narrative. Travel turns you into a storyteller, and his photos are the narrator of their adventures across rugged and beautiful Namibia. He has the innate skill to capture the glow of late afternoon and quiet interaction with nature and each other that we recognise, because we feel it while we travel. Few can effectively capture it in a frame, though.

What makes Botha’s work stand apart is the intimacy of his lens. His images breathe with authenticity, as though one has stumbled into a family album rather than a constructed series of photographs. There is no attempt to polish life into perfection. Instead, he celebrates the unfiltered details... bare feet, crumpled linens, and the play of shadow and light across weathered landscapes. The result is a visual storytelling that resonates across cultures: simple, universal gestures of connection, wonder, and belonging. In a world where photography often leans toward spectacle, Botha invites us to pause and remember the quiet of ordinary days. His photographs don’t demand attention; they invite reflection. They remind us that beauty lies in presence, and that memory itself is a landscape worth exploring. TN

Simplifying Life

PRIME LOCATION

Whether you're on business or exploring Namibia, CYMOT Hilltop has everything you need under one roof!

Conveniently located next to Grove Mall in Windhoek, we make shopping easy, hassle-free, and enjoyable.

Start your journey with the perfect cup! Fuel up with the rich aroma and bold avours of Slow Town Coffee, available in-store. From a quick espresso to a smooth latte, every cup is crafted to perfection.

VARIETY

Family Travel in Namibia: A QUICK GUIDE

Travelling with children through Namibia can be a joy – wide open landscapes, fascinating wildlife, and plenty of safe, familyfriendly stops make it one of Africa’s most rewarding destinations for families. With a little planning, your journey can be smooth and memorable.

TIPS FOR PARENTS

• Plan for distances: Namibia is vast. Break long drives with stops at roadside cafés, farm stalls, or small towns. Keep snacks, games, and water handy.

• Rest often: Choose lodges or camps with open lawns or pools where children can stretch their legs.

• Wildlife safety: Always stay in the car in reserves and keep children close on guided walks.

• Health & comfort: Sunscreen, hats, insect repellent, and rehydration sachets are essentials. Roads are safe but gravel can be bumpy – carry a small first aid kit.

• Engage them: Give children a wildlife checklist, a pair of binoculars, or a simple camera to keep them excited and involved.

BEST PLACES FOR FAMILIES

Etosha National Park – Easy game viewing from rest camps with swimming pools, lawns, and waterholes right on the doorstep.

Swakopmund – A fun coastal town with beaches, dunes, adventure activities, and excellent family-friendly restaurants.

Damaraland/Kaokoland – Camping, rugged and beautiful terrains, Stonemen and freedom to roam and explore.

Sossusvlei – Towering red dunes, Deadvlei’s surreal landscape, and starry skies; many lodges offer family rooms and child-friendly nature drives.

Zambezi Region – River cruises, fishing, and birdwatching in lush surroundings – a contrast to Namibia’s desert landscapes. Plan your trip for the low risk malaria months (typically winter: May–September).

Farm Stays – Many guest farms offer opportunities to explore wide-open spaces, enjoy outdoor activities like horse riding, and connect with rural Namibian life.

Travelling with kids in Namibia means slowing down, choosing fewer destinations, and making space for play along the way. Do that, and the country’s incredible wildlife, landscapes, and people will leave your family with stories to share for a lifetime. TN

KIND OF GETAWAY

For many of us, it comes as quite the natural urge: the desire to jump in your car and drive until you can drive no more, get out wherever you might find yourself, and experience some wild, unplanned adventure. Surprisingly (or maybe not), that need is even stronger when the everyday involves a tumultuous toddler trampling about your business. Of course, it is not as easy, or advisable, to leave the toddler to his own devices while you try to satisfy your deep desire for freedom, which leaves you with little choice but to let said toddler join you in the temporary escape.

MARITA VAN ROOYEN

On one such occasion, we – that is, Toddler and I – decided to drive as far east as we possibly could. East, because that is where the sun rises, and even with a toddler there needs to be some kind of method behind the madness. We departed the capital early on a Friday morning and managed to reach Gobabis about three hours and two failed pit stops later. For those thinking of undertaking the same journey, don’t waste your time stopping at the Kalahari Padstal –there’s nothing resembling a padstal here, not even cheap instant coffee – and the only shop in Witvlei sells little more than Coke and Simba chips. At least Toddler managed to stretch his legs and hug a water tank, which is currently one of his greatest obsessions.

In Gobabis, we stopped for supplies (because who thinks of packing anything when embarking on a great escape mission?) and decided to turn northwards for the final stretch. Forty-something kilometres later, we ran out of biltong and simultaneously realised our internal batteries needed recharging, so we headed for the nearest (and most probably only) accommodation on the C22 to Otjinene: Hippo Farm. Now, just to avoid any potential disappointment, do not expect to find any hippos here. There is a large metal cutout of a hippo mounted on the farm gate, but that is as close to this semi-aquatic creature you are going to get.

However, as could be expected, there are plenty of real farm animals on this farm, including a pigsty featuring about five generations of swine of all shapes and sizes, and countless shades of pink. As a designated quarantine camp for livestock due for export, Hippo Farm also accommodates a selection of fancy-looking cattle, as well as some sheep, an ostrich and a somewhat distorted, but apparently thorough-bred horse. There are also chickens, guinea fowl and pigeons, in addition to three farm dogs and a couple of cats. More than enough to keep Toddler on a roll for the rest of the afternoon, while I followed him around to make sure he does not step on the great variety of doodoo, as should be expected in this kind of environment or, heaven forbid, get bitten by a snake or some other creepy crawly. After watching, naming and mimicking the animals became boring, I coaxed Toddler into running a one-man race on the

red Kalahari sands, while he made the occasional stop to watch a dung beetle cross the dust road, and collect random objects of interest. When this activity had run its course, we headed back to the farmyard to spend some time on the playground, do a bit of swinging and check out the treehouse, which towers over the lush green lawn in one of those iconic, ancient camelthorn trees. Toddler depleted his energy right in time for dinner which, of course, was marked by perfectly braaied meat on the open fire, as the sun was setting over the surrounding savannah landscape.

As we turned in for the night to the sound of the windpomp clicking and turning, I came to the realisation that fancy frills and well-planned activities are overrated when you can have an exciting toddler-led adventure. Even better when it is in the middle of nowhere. Spectacular but nonetheless fascinating and delightfully entertaining! A random yet wellexecuted escape.

A FEW FUN FACTS

• Wondering how Hippo Farm got its name? Back in 1928, a group of Dorslandtrekkers decided to leave Angola in search of land to settle south of the border. They were allocated farms by General J.B.M. Hertzog, who at the time was serving as the third prime minister of the Union of South Africa. In his honour, and to show their appreciation, the settlers all chose farm names starting with “H”. As all the good names had already been taken, the first farmer on this land, Christiaan de Jager, had to be especially creative, and perhaps a bit tongue-in-cheek, when finally settling for Hippo. At least he ensured it makes for an interesting story.

• Hippo Farm is also home to Hippo Primary School, where kids from various cultural backgrounds, including San, Khoekhoegowab, Tswana and Herero, have come together since 1967 to receive quality education right in the middle of the Namibian Kalahari.

• The property offers two accommodation options: Hippo Farm Apartment, which is located on the main yard and caters for two adults and two kids, as well as The Stal Kahudu, a secluded two-bedroom house that can sleep up to six guests. All options are self-catering and can be booked via Airbnb Booking.com or by contacting owners Marie and Faan Beukes on faan@iway.na TN

Before They Grow

Childhood wonder comes alive on safari at Onguma

If you’ve ever travelled through Namibia with children, chances are Etosha National Park becomes one of the highlights. The first family road trip across its endless landscapes, will leave adults and little ones alike filled with wide-eyed excitement. Etosha always feels larger than life.

The endless vistas of salt pans that shimmer in the heat of the day or the sprawling lawns at rest camps. It is a land of wonder and possibility.

That same feeling awaits at Onguma Bush Camp, just outside Etosha’s eastern gate.

Here, giant trees shade sweeping lawns, while children find endless space to play and discover. Their laughter drifts across the camp, echoing that timeless sense of adventure where everything seems bigger, brighter, and filled with promise.

I sat on the deck overlooking the waterhole – tilapia darting beneath the surface, terrapins bathing in the last rays of sunlight. Across the water, a giraffe ambled into view, as if summoned for the moment. We shared the same sunset, the same golden stillness. And suddenly, I was ten years old again, full of wonder. But now, it was my son standing beside me, eyes wide and heart open, just as mine had been all those years ago.

I read recently that “your weekends are your children’s childhoods.” Holidays too, I’d argue. In the quiet pause of vacation – away from school runs, packed lunches, and to-do lists – we’re laying down the foundation of our children’s most vivid memories.

And at Onguma, I could see it happening in real time.

As Adriano, one of the gracious waiters at Onguma Bush Camp, so aptly said, “Experiences create memories.” And here we were, crafting the kind that live forever.

Travelling with children has exploded since the pandemic – a movement back to meaningful time together. Many lodges are racing to adapt. But Onguma Bush Camp and Onguma Forest Camp, both a short distance from Etosha’s Namutoni Gate, are not just childfriendly – they were seemingly made for this. What’s more, they are both fully fenced, making it ideal for guests with children or those who want peace of mind in a wild setting.

Onguma spans an extraordinary 35,480 hectares of private wilderness. It’s a world of open savannahs, acacia thickets, and mopane woodland – home to more than 30 different animal species, including lion, giraffe, rhino, and even elusive leopards. Birdlife here is prolific, with over 300 recorded species flitting between the trees and watering holes.

Yet, for all its wild grandeur, Onguma never forgets the magic of childhood. It was beautiful here, but what made the experience even more memorable was watching my child enjoy it. And we didn’t have to go far for him to do just that, even the waterhole at the restaurant provided endless entertainment.

For younger guests, the Young Explorer’s Walk is a revelation. Designed specifically for children and safely contained within the fenced camp, this guided walk is a hands-on adventure through nature. Little ones learn about animal tracks and insects, scramble up wooden lookouts, test their balance on obstacle beams, try their hand at archery, and end their journey with arts and crafts under the trees. It’s a perfect blend of physical play, mental stimulation and creative expression.

And this isn’t lip service to the “family-friendly” label – it’s a thoughtful, immersive experience that treats children as worthy explorers in their own right.

But it’s not just the kids who are spoiled. For adults, Onguma Bush Camp is an oasis – a place where time slows beneath giant trees, where beautifully appointed rooms invite rest, and the night is wrapped in whispers of African folklore. Every meal is a celebration, crafted with fresh, vibrant ingredients. And the hospitality? Effortless, sincere – smiles waiting at every turn.

This isn’t just a place you visit. It’s a place that stays with you. That pulls you back. Not just for the wildlife, the scenery, or the comfort, but for how it makes you feel.

Connected. Present. Grateful.

The name Onguma, from the Herero language, means “the place you don’t want to leave.” And for families visiting Namibia, that could not be more true.

Bernard, who by now felt more like a friend than a staff member, walked us to our car. We exchanged hugs, laughter, and promises to return.

As we drove away, I was reminded that the true gift of family travel isn’t just in the memories we make, but in the people our children become because of the experiences we afforded them. TN

onguma.com |  reservations@onguma.com

At Wolwedans, every journey supports conservation, education, and community upliftment through our 5 C’s philosophy. Your stay leaves a lasting impact.

TRAVEL THE WOLWEDANS WAY

THE CURRENT OF LIFE

How rivers taught us to slow down and see

KIRSTY WATERMEYER

There is a certain reward – both mental and physical –that comes with the effort of breaking new ground. Travel experiences reveal what we did not know, and in the process, we become new and find truths we did not know before. Journeys do that. They give birth to new insights. They return us to the simple things, to real beauty – unmanicured, uncurated and often unnoticed. They remind us that the perfect travel experience is not just found in a photograph of an elusive animal, or a sunset over water, or a well-prepared meal. It is found in the quiet, in the people and in the slowness of things.

When the familiar is stripped away – when our usual sensory experiences are replaced by the call of a Fish Eagle or the rhythmic splash of a mokoro pole in deep water – we begin to see differently and to feel differently. As Gustave Flaubert wrote, “Pleasure is found first in anticipation, later in memory.” But somewhere in between – in that fleeting space where we are fully present – is where the magic truly lives.

Our journey took us on an 11-day expedition through Namibia’s Kavango East and Zambezi regions, where we drifted down ancient rivers on countless boat rides, added extraordinary birds and animals to our checklists, and returned home with full hearts and rested minds.

The northeast of Namibia is a remarkable region – wild and alive, drenched in water and wonder. Whether it is dusty roads framed by thick green vegetation or giant riverine trees rising above winding waterways, the pulse of life is visible in every direction. And through it all, the warm, generous people who live here – resilient, rooted and deeply connected to the land.

IT STARTED WITH WATER…

The recent floodwaters not only raised the river level – bringing a glistening sparkle to floodplains and resulting in lilies blooming in vibrant celebration – but it also raised the deep, buzzing current of expectation. Before we left, there was that unmistakable thrill that hums just beneath the skin when you sense real adventure ahead.

We came searching for wildness, for the unknown, and what we found was a land generous beyond measure, wild in ways that surprised us, and full of moments that felt too vivid to belong in guidebooks.

A QUIET KIND OF TRANSFORMATION

The northeast did not just show itself; it pulled us into its rhythm. It carried us from river to river, from misty mornings where fog lay low and still over rushing waters to starlit nights punctuated only by grunting hippos and the unmistakable call of lions. The region slowly showed its hand – quietly at first, until the adventure we had hoped for became something far greater. It was a gradual transformation.

We began at the Okavango River, where water flows steadily and the river is wide. Here, the air carries the scent of wet earth and green things.

The floodwaters that arrived brought with them the water lilies – hundreds of them, adorning the shallows with bright, delicate plumage, opening to the morning sun in quiet reverence of the new day.

We followed the main artery of what was once known as the Caprivi Strip, a ribbon of tarmac threading through forests, floodplains and national parks. Every stretch of road promised something – an elephant crossing, the vibrant flash of a Lilac-breasted Roller or herds of Nguni cattle wandering across at their own pace.

The land shifted subtly as we travelled along, from the Okavango’s gentle moods to the wilder pulse of Bwabwata National Park, where the national road cuts through the park. Here, the road signs warn of potential elephants rather than curves ahead. We drove along the strip with the intention of meandering back slowly. This meant that our journey first took us to the furthest tip of the Zambezi Region, where the Chobe River forms Namibia’s border with Botswana’s wild north.

At Chobe, the world became a mirror of water: boats floated across the floodplain, and crocodiles glided like shadows just beneath the surface. The lush, flooded environment drew an impressive array of animals to its banks – giraffes, elephants and buffalo. And then, of course, there were the ones you would expect, such as hippos, Fish Eagles and water monitors. The latter scurried in large numbers along the shoreline, basking on every sun-warmed rock, sometimes in very close proximity to their mortal enemies, the crocodiles.

After a few days on the banks of the Chobe, we set off towards the shores of the Zambezi River – the longest east-flowing river in Africa. Along the Zambezi’s banks, it is hard not to become a bird lover. From the skilled precision of the Giant Kingfisher to the sudden flash of a Swallowtailed Bee-eater’s wings, this is a birder’s paradise. But it is not only the birds that draw your attention. There is so much life to witness and explore. Local people paddle gracefully in mokoros, their dugout canoes gliding through what were once roads, now transformed into waterways. Children fish with practiced ease, while women move with poise, balancing baskets on their heads as if weightless.

Here, water does not interrupt life; it shapes it, carries it and nourishes it. We spent days here, drifting, listening, unwinding…

DRIFTING INTO ANOTHER WORLD

Time moves differently on the Zambezi – more slowly, more deliberately. The river runs with incredible pace, yet at its surface, you would think that it knows no hurry, and soon enough, neither did I. Sunset boat cruises on the river left one calm, connected and in awe. Fishing attempts were futile as the waters were too high for much catch-andrelease success. This was also true for the hippo sightings – they were simply too well hidden in deep waters.

There are so many rivers to explore here. And so, we reluctantly dragged ourselves away from the region’s namesake river and journeyed towards Bwabwata National Park, where we found ourselves along the banks of the Kwando.

It was in Bwabwata, at the looping bend of the river, known as Horseshoe Bend, that I first felt the true immensity of life supported by this place. We arrived as the sun bled low across the floodplain, and the air was filled with birdsong. As far as the eye could see, elephants gathered, their grey hides dusted gold by the last light of day. Beneath the tall legs of the older adults, young calves played and rolled, spraying dust into the lowering sunlight.

Here, red lechwe leapt across the water, and kudu strolled calmly past, far less skittish than usual, as if the peace of the place had settled into their bones. I remember thinking: this is what Earth looked like before us.

THE RETURN, COMING FULL CIRCLE

The final loop of our journey brought us back to the Okavango River, to Divundu, where the river reasserts itself with strength and grace.

Popa Falls – not so much a waterfall as a series of elegant cascades – seemed to babble as if telling stories to those who paused long enough to listen.

We spent a day exploring Mahango National Park, and again I was humbled by the life moving quietly beside me: elephants, lechwe, impala, warthogs, crocodiles, herons and the ever-watchful eyes of nature.

And then it was done. The journey had brought us full circle – from river to river, through sight, silence and sound.

NEVER THE SAME AGAIN

Somewhere – in the shimmer of the sun on waterways, in the swirl of lilies on the surface of a swollen river, in the cry of the Fish Eagle or the call of lions – a part of me was left behind. The verdant northeast gave us more than adventure. It left us changed in the subtlest yet most permanent ways. It made us look at things with a newly found attention, a deeper kind of wonder, and a lasting sense that the world, in all its wild and quiet glory, is far richer than we often allow ourselves to see.

Now, back home, I still hear the rivers – not necessarily their sound, but their presence. I hear the way they moved through the land and through us. And I noticed that my fellow travellers were different too. Quieter, perhaps, but somehow more alert. Roads we had travelled before now seemed more beautiful. Landscapes once passed without much thought now pulled our eyes towards them.

It was as if the journey had awakened something in us – a way of seeing, of noticing, that had not been there before. Or maybe it had been there all along, just waiting for the right moment, the right adventure, to come alive. The northeastern wetlands of Namibia is not a place you simply visit. It is a place that visits you – softly, insistently – and never leaves you.

And so, the rivers flow on… Never forced, never repeating themselves, just quietly awaiting our return. TN

NAMIBIA DISCOVER

16. Sesriem Campsite

17. Naukluft Camp

18. Hardap Resort

19. Duwisib Castle

20. Fish River Canyon & Hobas Camp

21. /Ai-/Ais Hotsprings Spa

22. Mile 72

23. Mile 108

24. Jakkalsputz

25. Boplaas Campsite

26. Von Bach Tungeni Resort

27. Dead Valley Lodge & Oshana Sesriem Campsite

Popa Falls Resort

Onkoshi Resort

Namutoni Resort

Halali Resort

Okaukuejo Resort

Olifantsrus Camp

Dolomite Resort

Terrace Bay

Torra Bay

Khorixas Camp

Waterberg Resort

Gross-Barmen Resort

Mile 14 Campsite

Sun Karros Daan Viljoen

Sossus Dune Lodge

BOOK REVIEW

Some stories linger long after you’ve turned the last page. They stay not because they shout the loudest, but because they whisper truths that feel both timeless and immediate. Leonard the Land Rover, written by Dr Conrad (Nad) Brain and illustrated by Namibian artist Nicky Marais, is one such book – a revival of a much-loved Namibian tale that blends memoir, allegory, and desert storytelling into something unforgettable.

At first glance, it might seem unusual to cast a short wheelbase Land Rover as a central character in a book. Yet within a few paragraphs, Leonard becomes more than a machine. He is a faithful, battered vehicle with a voice and a heart, determined to win the trust of a troop of desert baboons. Through his eyes, readers are invited into the Namib Desert – the world’s oldest desert – where survival is precarious and companionship is hard-earned.

The story begins with frustration: Bo, a beautiful but wary baboon, bolts whenever Leonard draws near. Leonard longs to be part of the troop but is continually reminded of his outsider status. The desert itself becomes a character too, with its fierce east winds, blinding dust, and long nights under Orion’s gaze. Slowly, through patience and persistence, Leonard is accepted into the troop, beginning a fragile friendship that is tested by drought, disease, and the harsh realities of desert life.

What makes Leonard the Land Rover compelling is the way it balances whimsy and realism. On one hand, there is a magical quality to the narrative: a talking Land Rover, friendships with baboons, even a surreal encounter with a flying craft. On the other, the story is deeply rooted in truth. It draws from actual desert research and observations, particularly the mystery of how baboons survive without

regular access to water. These factual underpinnings lend gravity to the tale, reminding readers that behind the fable lies an ecological puzzle and a fragile ecosystem.

The emotional weight of the book is carried not only by Leonard’s persistence but also by the cycle of loss and renewal. Characters come and go; friendships falter and revive; floods arrive just when hope seems lost. Through it all, Leonard’s resilience mirrors that of the desert’s inhabitants. His mechanical breakdowns, flat tyres, and broken gears stand in for the vulnerabilities we all face, and his recovery speaks to the possibility of renewal.

Visually, the book is enriched by Nicky Marais’s illustrations. Daughter of Christine Marais, who illustrated the original Leonard decades ago, Nicky’s work continues a legacy of capturing the Namib’s haunting beauty. Her art bridges generations, lending texture and atmosphere that amplify the narrative’s mood – at times whimsical, at times stark.

This revival edition matters because it is not only a nostalgic return but also a reintroduction of a uniquely Namibian story to a new audience. It speaks to children with its anthropomorphic charm, but it also resonates with adults who recognise the metaphors of loneliness, belonging, and perseverance. It is at once a desert fable, a conservation tale, and a reflection on what it means to endure.

In the end, Leonard the Land Rover reminds us that even in the harshest landscapes, friendship and hope can take root. It is a story to be read aloud, to be shared across generations, and to be cherished as part of Namibia’s cultural and literary heritage. TN

Preorder now at bonn@venture.com.na

POMPIE AND HIS GRANDSON IAN BURGER

My name is Ian, I am seven years old and I am in Grade 2 in Eikestad Primary School, Stellenbosch. My brother’s name is Josh and he is only three years old, so he is not so clever. My school is Afrikaans, so my English is not so good. My dad helped me with some of the English words. My granddad lives in Windhoek. Josh calls him Ou Poepie; he says it is shorter than Oupa Pompie. Ou Poepie asked me to write a letter about our trip to Mahango for the Namibian magazine about birds. Not too long ago, he gave me a bird book by Oom Faansie, so I am now better than he is at identifying birds, because his fancy books are too difficult for him to read.

We went on holiday in Namibia to the Mahango Game Park during December last year. Ou Poepie says it is the best time of the year to go birding, because there are more birds and some of them travel from far to visit Namibia. I think it’s just his excuse to get away from Windhoek. Josh is not very good at identifying different birds because he doesn’t have Oom Faansie’s book, and I don’t want to give him my book because he will likely destroy it. Also, he cannot read.

Ou Poepie said that Mahango is the best place to look for birds, because he knows these things. We camped near the park to arrive early in the morning, because you see more birds when it’s not so hot. When I sit in the back of the car, I can lie on my back and look out the window for raptor birds

flying high above. Josh was jumping around and almost broke Ou Poepie’s camera. We saw elephants and buffalo, but Ou Poepie said they are not as interesting as birds, so he just drove on without stopping.

When we drove along the river, we saw a variety of water birds which were easy to identify. We saw Yellow-billed Storks, Wattled Cranes and Lesser Jacanas. Ou Poepie said they are Jesus birds because they can walk on water. The best was when we saw a Black Heron making shade in the water using his wings so that he could catch the fish more easily. Pappa says they make nighttime and daytime when they open and close their wings. My favourite bird is the African Fish Eagle, because it has a beautiful call and is easy to identify. Even Ou Poepie knows them.

Josh only knows the Common Ostrich birds, but as you know, he is still very young. I taught him some new birds. He may also become good with birds when he is older.

He liked the Southern Ground Hornbills, which I showed him. Ou Poepie sommer drove into the veld to follow them and take better pictures, but I think that is against the rules. He also likes to listen to music the whole time. I asked him to play De la Rey by Bok van Blerk, because his son is in my school, but he prefers Bruce Springsteen, which is also not too bad. When Oumie came with us on the drive, we had to stop at all the different trees so she could take pictures and collect seeds.

Pygmy Goose

At one place, we saw a lot of vultures sitting on the ground, all White-backed Vultures feeding on a buffalo carcass. There were also Marabou Storks and Yellow-billed Kites, but they were very careful because I think they are scared of the vultures. The dead buffalo was the only animal that Ou Poepie stopped for. There was also a Bateleur in a tree nearby, which was a new bird for me, and he became my new favourite bird. He is more beautiful than the Fish Eagle. When he flies, he has a very short tail. We also saw a European Honey Buzzard that was busy eating honey from a nest. Josh thought he was eating bees, but as you know, he is not very clever. We all got a bit tired sitting in the car while Ou Poepie took pictures… he must have taken a thousand pictures.

I liked the bee-eaters a lot. We saw many different ones and got close to them, so I also took pictures, but my camera is too small. We saw White-fronted, Southern Carmine and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters. Josh liked the Pied Kingfisher, because he could see them catching fish by hovering above the water before diving in. Ou Poepie showed us African Skimmers and explained to us that they fly low over the river and catch small fish with their funny red bills. They also make small holes in the sand to lay eggs, but he couldn’t show them to us because he said we needed a boat to see the babies.

Bateleur

European Honey Buzzard

African Barred Owlets

Black Heron

Southern Carmine Bee-eater

African Paradise Flycatcher

White-faced Whistling Ducks

The highlight for Josh was when we stopped for lunch. He likes eating and running around more than watching animals and birds. We ended up in a lovely spot along the river, where we saw hippos playing in the water right in front of us. Above us in one of the trees was a nest of an African Paradise Flycatcher, so I sat under the tree, watching them feed the little babies while Pappa brought me a sandwich and a Coke.

Later that afternoon, when we sat next to the river at our camp, we saw Pygmy Geese and Spur-winged Geese flying along the river. The White-faced Whistling Ducks were calling, and it sounded like they were blowing on a whistle when they flew past us. Pappa and Ou Poepie drank something like brandy and later talked very loudly, making stupid jokes and smoking too much. They were too busy to see the African Oriole sitting close to our camping spot in a tree, watching us.

One very good thing that Ou Poepie showed us was the owls in our camp when we were having a braai. He even called one of the owls with his cellphone. That was the first time I saw an African Wood Owl and two African Barred Owlets. Luckily, Josh was already in bed, otherwise he would have thrown stones at them.

Pappa said I must not write so much. He said he will ask Ou Poepie if Tannie Elzanne from the magazine will let me write another story next year when we go to Etosha, or maybe Ou Poepie will want to go to Zambezi again. I wanted to write about the two tries I scored in a rugby match, but he said maybe next time. TN

African Skimmer

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Toddling on a yoga rock and other stretches of the imagination in the

Erongo

MARITA VAN ROOYEN

Mountains

Boulder crawling is a thing. Especially when you are of the age where life is all about exploring the world with a vigour that requires all your senses, best done by slithering about on hands, knees or, most conveniently, your bum. Of course, it adds even more flavour to the fun if the earth is made of ancient granite formations and the backdrop is that of the Erongo Mountains.

Erongo Rocks presents the ultimate playground to any curious child. Big boulders and granite plates make frequent appearances between tall yellow grass and dusty trails – of which there are plenty for every fitness level to walk, run, cycle or even crawl. Birds of all colours and sizes glide about the crisp skies, creating a natural backtrack with their uplifting chirps. Geckos and lizards bask in the sun, and the odd armoured cricket and its not-so-lucky victim, ironically a former brother in arms, present valuable life lessons in terms of survival of the fittest. Some wildlife also roam the bush, and if you are resourceful enough, there is plenty to spy for your little one’s eye. From sunrise to sunset, days amongst the boulders are abuzz with activity, and there is more than enough on offer for any inquisitive companion to stay entertained with all the exciting opportunities the natural world holds. As a bonus, the adventure is even worth mama’s while, as all these magical moments can be enjoyed right from the rock where you have decided to set up camp, affording a few precious moments to relax and enjoy the view while the kids toddle about their business.

Speaking of setting up camp, it is said that the best way to sleep in Africa is in a tent. At Erongo Rocks, owners Terry and Didi Rust are firm believers in this philosophy. And once you have seen the look of awe on your child’s face when you zip open the doorway to their temporary home under the stars, you will understand that camping is the kind of adventure that memories are made of. Here, amongst the boulders, options are plenty, and each of the six campsites has its own flavour and flair – and spectacular vistas over the surrounding landscape. Bring your own tent, or if packing snacks for a toddler already had you at your wits’ end, ask for a “comfy camping” upgrade, so all you have to do is arrive, unzip and rest your weary head. Except, of course, for two final tasks before you can kick back and call it a successful day: celebrating golden hour with your favourite people and getting hubby to stoke the fire for a braai in your own personal starlight restaurant.

The first is perhaps the hardest, as there are four unique viewpoints to choose from. Luckily, three of these are easily accessible with a child in tow, even by means of bum-shifting. Our party eventually settled on “Yoga Rock” which, as the name suggests, is ideally sloped for relaxing stretches, casual crawling and soaking in dramatic panoramas. The kids – young and old – had an absolute blast manoeuvring themselves up and down the smooth granite, pausing from time to time for a quick breath and a glimpse of the surrounding landscape. Don’t forget to pack the snacks, and a few cold ones, to replenish the energies from the top of your Erongo world!

NEED A BIT MORE ACTION?

For those with more energy and less distraction, the team at Erongo Rocks also offer a two-hour guided hike to see some of the ancient San rock art found in the area, and a two-day mountain hike and sleep-out led by the everso-knowledgeable Didi. Future developments include a revamp of the old farmhouse – home to the Rust family for over a century – which will reopen its doors on 1 October 2025 as a reception and central meeting place. Here, guests will be able to gather for good conversation, home-cooked meals, refreshing drinks, access to the Wi-Fi and the opportunity to cool off in the farm dam. Located about 40 km west of Omaruru, Erongo Rocks provides a convenient stopover between Windhoek, Swakopmund and Etosha National Park.

Learn more and make your booking at erongorocks.com.

BUT WAIT! THERE’S MORE…

Erongo Rocks is located within the Erongo Mountain Nature Sanctuary, a private nature reserve of around 180,000 hectares, where fences have been removed to allow wildlife to roam freely within the natural habitat. This means you will very likely be greeted by herds of friendly wildlife along your journey through the reserve. Expect springbok pronking across the road, towers of giraffe browsing the treetops for the freshest bites, and if you are really, really lucky, you might even spot an endangered black rhino camouflaged by a shady bush.

The Erongo Mountains is also a rich geological wonder – the core of a collapsed volcanic crater that erupted around 130-150 million years ago. This noteworthy event formed part of the greater Gondwana breakup, which saw the continents of Africa and South America break apart. With a bit of predeparture research and some appetisers, there is more than enough to keep the kids in their seats and entertained en-route!

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND ATTRACTIONS WITHIN THE SURROUNDS

• Learn more about the culture and ways of life of the ancient keepers of this land by visiting the Living Museum of the Ju/’Hoansi-San at Omandumba Guestfarm.

• Explore the area’s rich selection of rock paintings, including the famous “White Elephant” at Phillip’s Cave on the Ameib farm.

• Scale Hoheinstein, which at 2,319 metres is Erongo’s highest peak. You can do so from Hohenstein Lodge, which lies at the foot of the mountain.

• If gemstones are your thing, be sure to stop at the Ûiba-Ôas Crystal Market, where you can find locally mined stones like tourmaline, aquamarine, fluorite and beryl.

• Namibia’s famous “Matterhorn”, the Spitzkoppe, is another stop worth mentioning, ideal for rock-climbing, stargazing and, yes, some more boulder crawling.

• The quirky town of Omaruru boasts plenty to do, including visiting historical structures, unique craft shops such as the Tikoloshe Afrika carving studio, art galleries, coffee shops, restaurants offering locally made products, as well as wine tastings at Erongo Mountain Winery and Kristall Kellerei (mom and dad also need a bit of entertainment, right?). TN

A Living Library: Ongava’s Indigenous Plant Rehabilitation Project

ELZANNE MCCULLOCH

IPhotographs SUNÉ VAN WYK

n a world where biodiversity loss continues to threaten ecosystems and communities alike, Ongava’s commitment to conservation has taken on an inspiring new form through the restoration, rehabilitation, and celebration of Namibia’s indigenous plant life. Nestled within the shared campus of Ongava Research Centre (ORC) and Anderssons at Ongava, this effort is quietly transforming the landscape into a living library of Namibia’s botanical heritage.

Under the guidance of horticulturalist Rainer Raue, the project aims to establish more than 100 species of native trees and shrubs on the grounds. Each one is thoughtfully selected not only for its ecological importance but also for its cultural value and conservation status. A walking trail established through this natural collection is more than a scenic route. It is a place of quiet reflection, where visitors can pause in the shade of an acacia or marvel at the resilience of an aloe. It offers an invitation to respect the land, its diversity, and the legacy we must protect.

So far, 95 species have been documented, including rare and localised specimens such as the Giant Quiver Tree (Aloe pillansii), Red-leaved Rock Fig (Ficus ingens), and Namibia’s own coral tree (Erythrina decora), of which only three out of 28 sourced seeds have successfully germinated. These slow-growing plants are being cultivated with patience and care for eventual out-planting.

Among the most remarkable stories is that of the Cyphostemma genus, Namibia’s trunk-forming succulents colloquially known as “Kobas.” Once confiscated by the NamPol Protected Resources Unit and donated to Ongava for safekeeping, three of Namibia’s four Cyphostemma species are now thriving at Ongava. The final species (C currori) is expected to be added soon, completing the collection. These ancient-looking plants stand as symbols of endurance and offer a powerful reminder of why conservation work is so vital.

In recent years, Namibia has seen an uptick in plant poaching, targeting rare and endangered species. As a result, Ongava has now also become a designated rehabilitation site for confiscated plant specimens, offering a safe haven where these rescued species can recover and grow under expert care. The success of this effort reinforces Ongava’s role as a guardian not only of wildlife but also of the country’s threatened flora.

Rainer’s efforts also extend beyond Ongava’s borders. He has successfully sourced and begun cultivating the rare “halfmens” (Pachypodium namaquanum) and white protea (Protea gaguedi), both of which are now considered endangered or locally extinct in Namibia. Seeds were secured from international botanical collections and nurtured under the harsh but rewarding conditions of Ongava’s landscape.

However, this is only the beginning. A “botanical wish list” of 60 to 80 additional indigenous species is currently being compiled. Plans are underway for seed collection trips in collaboration with Leevi Nanyeni, Chief Curator of the National Botanical Garden. These species will be grown and shared with both the ORC and the Garden, enriching national collections and reinforcing collaboration between conservation institutions.

All plants are now being labelled using Ongava’s newly designed botanical name plate system. Each label creates an educational opportunity for visitors, researchers, and future generations.

This botanical vision forms part of Ongava’s broader biodiversity strategy. The project serves as a testament to proactive and grounded conservation that recognises the importance of preserving life above ground as well as protecting what lies beneath.

Thanks to the dedication of Rainer Raue, Stuart Crawford, Corne Cocklin, Edward Eiseb, Derek Moore, Abigail Guerier, and the collaboration with Leevi Nanyeni and the National Botanical Garden, this project is not only planting trees. It is planting a future rooted in knowledge, nurtured by passion, and blooming with possibility.

For more on the unique flora of Ongava and the conservation importance of plantlife in Namibia, visit: www.ongava.com/activity/plants. TN

10 NOTEWORTHY INDIGENOUS PLANTS AT ONGAVA

1. Giant Quiver Tree (Aloe pillansii)

• A highly localised and endangered succulent native to southern Namibia.

• Rare in the wild; Ongava has successfully germinated 5 out of 50 seeds.

2. Red-leaved Rock Fig (Ficus ingens)

• Known for its dramatic reddish foliage and cliffdwelling nature.

• Found in isolated locations, including the Otavi Mountains.

3. Namibian Coral Tree (Erythrina decora)

• Native and rare; only 3 of 28 seeds have germinated so far.

• Distinctive bright red flowers provide key nectar for birds and insects.

4. Trunk-forming Kobas (Cyphostemma spp.)

• Includes C. uter, C. bainesii, and others confiscated from plant poachers.

• Ongava now hosts three of Namibia’s four known species, with the final (C. currori) being sourced.

5. “Halfmens” (Pachypodium namaquanum)

• An iconic, highly endangered succulent that resembles a human silhouette.

• Rare in Namibia and almost extinct locally.

6. White Protea (Protea gaguedi)

• Endangered and locally extinct in Namibia.

• Seeds were sourced from botanical collections in Germany.

7. Zebra Leaf Aloe (Aloe zebrina)

• Eye-catching succulent with striking striped foliage.

• One of the larger Aloe specimens planted to create shaded rest spots.

8. Mouse-eared Combretum (Combretum hereoroense)

• A lesser-known species with significant ecological value.

• Highlights the project’s focus on underrepresented and regionally important flora.

9. Smelly Shepherd’s Bush (Boscia foetida)

• A culturally important shrub, used traditionally in local medicine.

• Notable for its pungent scent and resilience in harsh conditions.

10. Candelabra Euphorbia (Euphorbia virosa)

• A dramatic and highly recognisable succulent.

• Toxic and protected, often targeted by poachers.

Nature’s green embrace

KHAUDUM NATIONAL PARK

ANJA DENKER

Living in a predominantly dry country, where most of the landscape is defined in earthy shades ranging from warm, reddish terracotta and ochre hues to subdued khaki, pale beiges, muted yellow and taupe hues spectacularly offset by rich dark browns and a hint of black, one cannot help but marvel at the dramatic changes effected by the rainy season.

On a camping trip in January this year to Khaudum National Park, one of Namibia’s truly authentic, largely unspoilt wilderness areas, I was overwhelmed by the astonishing and swift metamorphosis from a hot, dry and arid region to a verdant and lush green paradise.

Located in north-eastern Namibia and situated within the Kalahari Sandveld area, Khaudum’s climate is marked by the long and dry season, interspersed with a short, wet period of unpredictable rainfall, ranging from less than 200 mm to just over 1,000 mm of rainfall in exceptionally wet years. And a wet year this certainly seemed to be!

Setting off from the northern Rundu-Divundu section on the B8, we turn left towards Khaudum at the Katere signpost and deflate our tyres to 1.8 bar at the start of the 45-kmlong two-track road to Khaudum Gate. Despite the damp and more compacted sand due to recent rainfall, progress is still slow and tedious, necessitating a further deflation of the tyres. Grinding along laboriously and at snails’ pace through the deep sand in four-wheel drive mode is guaranteed to elevate the level of our blood pressure as well as diesel consumption! Nevertheless, the Katere road starts to weave

its magic as we venture deeper into dense woodland. Tall, stately trees, including the false mopane (with their signatory mottled dark-yellow trunks), manketti and flat-topped wild syringa trees line the road, their canopies so dense in places that they filter out the sunlight and create an atmosphere of mystery and solitude. Trees are breathing, living organisms – each one unique. Fanciful, I know, but I can almost imagine the rustling canopies whispering secrets to each other.

The cheerful yellow flowers of the rough-leaved raisin shrub and lilac-pink blooms of the wild sesame provide splashes of colour in the dense understory of shrubs and grasses on the sandy banks. The woodland holds its secrets well and other than occasional birds that flit through tree canopies, there is no sign of wildlife. After a close to three-hour drive, the last part along the George Mukoya Conservancy fence line, we reach Khaudum Gate. The Cwiba Omuramba holds pools of water from recent rainfall, and we are cautioned by the wildlife official to drive carefully as he points out tracks on the map which are navigable and stretches to be avoided due to the copious amounts of rainwater. He also tells us about a pack of wild dogs that were attempting to hunt a kudu the previous day in the Omuramba, albeit unsuccessfully.

Excited and apprehensive, we embark on the approximate 3.15 km stretch to Khaudum Camp. The sand is thick and deep, and the road eventually takes us up a prehistoric dune – at 20 to 25 metres the highest point of elevation in the park – where the six charming campsites, complete with their own ablution and washing area, are situated.

Roan antelope

As we sit, G&Ts in hand, overlooking the Kaudom Omuramba below, I cannot help but marvel at the unexpected scene before my eyes. The usual stark and barren landscape of the Omuramba is transformed into a verdant paradise under a blue-black sky, clouds heavily laden with moisture. A stately, lone eland bull crosses the Omuramba, a small herd of kudu is grazing on the fringes of the dense woodland where a few giraffes can be seen sticking their necks out.

Later that night, as we lie in our roof tents, deeply content and at peace with the world, the distinctive, deep-throated roar of lions – seemingly in close proximity to the camp –can be heard.

At first light, layers of mist float over the Omuramba in pale, hazy white veils, through which the bright orange of the rising sun starts to shimmer. We set off early, in search of the lions. We never find them, and decide to explore the eastern part of the Kaudom Omuramba through

exceedingly tall stretches of grassland. It is not easy trying to navigate the way along the banks through water, grass and soft sand. The wildlife is noticeably shy and skittish, only allowing us fleeting glimpses of kudu, gemsbok and zebra, before they move off to seek shelter in the acacia-lined fringes of the watercourse. Roan antelope have established themselves well in the park, and we are fortunate to have a few brief sightings of them at intervals.

Heading south to the waterhole of Doringstraat, we find the waterhole embedded in a carpet of very prominent yellow flowers of the devil’s thorn, as well as the desert sedge grass. The waterhole is devoid of wildlife. Conditions at the next waterholes of Leeupan, Tsau and Burkea are similar. Lush vegetation in every imaginable shade of green is visible as far as the eye can see. Each waterhole has a viewing platform with seating and information boards, the shaded roof ingeniously constructed from solar panels.

Common duiker

Sand camwood

With binoculars and cameras in hand, many hours can be spent here quietly observing the passing wildlife, but clearly this is meant for the hot and dry season when animals are dependent on the waterholes. A total of 13 artificial waterholes are spread across the park, with one natural fountain at Tsoanafontein in the south. Although the waterholes are devoid of big game and the dense shrubs are concealing smaller critters, we have a beautiful sighting of three endangered Southern Ground Hornbills at Burkea. We also encounter a few ostriches, a small herd of gemsbok, common duiker and steenbok on our way back to camp.

Mid-afternoon we venture along the Kaudom Omuramba to the western border of the park. Large herds of gemsbok, blue wildebeest and a group of ostrich are grazing on the lush green carpets of grass near the tree lines. We encounter our first elephant – a very bad-tempered bull in musth, indicating in no uncertain terms that we are not welcome in his presence. A leopard tortoise crawls along slowly and two black-backed jackals are, as ever, on the trot. The western boundary of the park borders communal land, and we are met with the sight of broken fencing, probably the result of wandering elephants, allowing a herd of cattle unhindered access into the park.

We spend the last night in camp and head out at first light for the southern region of the park. This time we take the middle road leading to Dussi, passing the waterholes of Burkea and Tsau. The deep, sandy tracks make for slow travel, allowing us to marvel at the beauty of exceptionally tall specimens of false mopane – also known as ushivi – and wild syringa, leadwood and African teak. The dense understory is mainly made up of lavender fever berry, trumpet flower, bushwillows and some grewia species. The woodland also hosts an abundance of diverse birdlife – we observe different species of hornbill, the striking Lilacbreasted Roller, spurfowl, babblers and starlings, as well as White-backed Vultures, Bateleur and a few smaller raptors.

As we turn towards the Elandsvlakte waterhole, the scenery gradually changes. Signs of the usually prevalent dry conditions are more noticeable in some areas in the form of dead and fallen trees and drier shrubland. The soil becomes more compact and the road easier to navigate. At times we have to exit the car to remove fallen branches and logs that obstruct the roads, a clear sign of elephant activity. It is said that the park hosts up to 4,000 elephants, especially in the dry, hot months. As we approach the waterhole, red Kalahari soil is prevalent, with Kalahari apple-leaf and manketti trees very prominent. Elandsvlakte is also surrounded by fields of lush, green grass, dense shrubland and trees. A couple of warthogs can be observed with binoculars from the viewing platform, but otherwise the waterhole seems devoid of wildlife.

Travelling towards Dussi, giraffes cross the road in front of us and we startle a couple of eland that move off immediately at the sound of our car. There are pools of rainwater everywhere, but the road is navigable. We meet our second bad-tempered pachyderm – another bull in musth, who flaps his ears angrily at us as we pass him at a safe distance. This area holds more game and zebra, giraffe, kudu and impala mill around and seem a little more relaxed. It is then that we have the most unexpected and astonishing sighting of our entire trip. As we approach a bend in the track, we are compelled to apply brakes and switch off the car. A few metres ahead to the right, a juvenile Martial Eagle perches on top of a baby common duiker, pinning it to the ground with its talons. The duiker bleats pitifully. Suddenly, the eagle releases the duiker and flies off, with the duiker getting up unharmed, hobbling off to the left of the road, still bleating. I casually glance left as well and see, with complete disbelief, a leopard in the shrubs near the road. It must have heard the sounds of the duiker in distress and come to investigate! When we eventually start the car and round the bend, both leopard and duiker have been swallowed up by the dense shrubbery. The bleating had stopped, and we can assume that this encounter did not end well for the little duiker.

Still stunned, we carry on south to the Dussi waterhole, where we find a honey badger scuttling into the undergrowth and then onward to the Omuramba waterhole. The deep sand has given way to a variety of different soils and shallow sand on calcrete. Purplepod terminalia, silver cluster-leaf, yellow rhigozum and blackthorn are part of the much shorter shrubland, where shepherd’s trees can also be seen. The Nhoma Omuramba is waterlogged in places as we approach the Shiyambi waterhole, but we are able to navigate part of the road in the Omuramba. More zebra and gemsbok, but the waterholes of Shiyambi and Soncana are predictably devoid of game. We reach Sikereti Camp mid-afternoon, set up camp and head out for another short sundowner drive to Soncana. Some roan can be seen in the distance, zebra mingle in the bush and a family of black-backed jackal, consisting of the parents and four youngsters, entertain us at the waterhole.

It is our last night in the park and when we pack up camp in the early morning, the intention is to stop at Tsoanafontein before leaving the park and heading for Tsumkwe. We have barely travelled a few kilometres, when we are forced to stop. The south-western part of the Nhoma Omuramba is flooded – water as far as the eye can see and the area resembles a veritable lake, preventing us from reaching the natural spring. Disappointment eventually gives way to deep appreciation. This spectacle is not witnessed very often in this semi-desert part of the world and what a privilege to see this wilderness wonderland cloaked in every imaginable shade of green, with blue expanses of water matching the blue of the sky overhead. TN

Waterholes in Khaudum have viewing platforms with seating and information boards, with shaded roofs constructed from solar panels.

Juvenile Martial Eagle and his catch – a baby duiker.

WECKE & VOIGTS WHOLESALE

Whether you’re a lodge owner stocking up, a tour operator prepping for the season, or a traveller heading off on a selfdrive adventure—Wecke & Voigts Wholesale is your onestop destination before you leave the city. Conveniently located in Windhoek’s Northern Industrial area, this wellloved Namibian institution offers bulk supplies, outdoor gear, and unbeatable variety, all zdesigned to meet the demands of travel and tourism.

From pantry staples, toiletries, and cleaning products to rugged outdoor wear and essentials, and camping must-haves—you’ll find everything you need under one roof. The store’s spacious layout, ample parking, and fast, friendly service make it easy to stock up and get on the road quickly.

Whether you forgot an extra torch, need enamel mugs for the fire, or are simply loading up on long-life groceries, Wecke & Voigts Wholesale has your back.

Big needs. Bulk solutions. Adventure ready That’s why generations of Namibians—and now travellers from around the world—trust Wecke & Voigts Wholesale before every journey.

The Stonemen - Flint and friends in Kaokoland is a spellbinding journey into Namibia’s remote and mystical Kaokoland, where reality and legend blur against vast desert landscapes. Authored by Ron Swilling, who narrates the story as it was told to her, the book follows Flint Firestone through the wilds of Kaokoland as he encounters mysterious stone figures, each with a story to share. The creator of these enigmatic Stonemen remains anonymous, adding to the intrigue.

At its core, the book reflects on the natural world and humanity’s connection to it. Kaokoland becomes a living, breathing entity that Flint and his stone companions inhabit. Every encounter offers a unique perspective on life, survival, and the forces that shaped the earth. Hanging Man reflects on the balance between humans and desert wildlife, while Quartz Man muses on the desert’s fairy circles. Each interaction invites readers to consider the delicate symbiosis between man and nature.

A journey through mystery, nature and timeless wisdom in Namibia's Kaokoland

ELZANNE MCCULLOCH

Swilling’s writing beautifully captures Kaokoland’s essence –the arid heat of day, shimmering constellations at night, and winds that whisper ancient secrets. Vivid descriptions are enhanced by photographs and Jacquie Tarr’s atmospheric illustrations, which deepen the book’s immersive quality.

More than an adventure, The Stonemen is a meditation on conservation and our responsibility toward nature. The figures stand as guardians of the earth, reminding us to tread lightly. Environmental themes are woven seamlessly into the narrative, showing the wilderness as both fragile and resilient.

Flint’s journey is not only physical but also spiritual. Each meeting with a Stoneman offers new insights into community, balance, and respect for the earth. Swilling’s deft storytelling ensures these reflections feel natural, making the narrative as thought-provoking as it is enjoyable.

This is a book for young and old – for those drawn to adventure, mystery, and the wisdom of nature. The anonymity of the Stonemen’s creator heightens the mystique, encouraging readers to focus less on the artist and more on the art, the messages in stone, and the timeless landscapes they inhabit.

The Stonemen – Flint and Friends in Kaokoland will captivate nature lovers and adventurers alike. It is a reminder that even in the quietest corners of the world, there are stories waiting to be told – and lessons to be learned. TN

To order your copy, visit www.venture-events.com or email bonn@venture.com.na .

Rooted in rock

Clear cobalt skies stretch above white, willowy grasslands. Rocky peaks rise among scattered shrubs. Solitary gravel roads are occasionally interrupted by capacious, sandy riverbeds. Here, the wilderness opens to sweeping plains, filled with mopane woodlands and dotted with hardy shepherd’s trees sculpted by the wind. Along the way, we encounter scenes of daily, rural life: sheep and goat herders, small farming settlements, and roadside stalls selling rough cuts of quartz and semi-precious gemstones. As we venture further into the semiarid terrain of Damaraland, the landscape begins to transform, with both the vegetation and its inhabitants adapting to the region’s rugged geography.

MADELEEN DUVENHAGE

Photographs YORK DUVENHAGE

Nearly 75 km west of the small town of Kamanjab, a well-maintained gravel road leads us to Hoada Campsite. Turning in at the entrance, I begin to understand why Hoada’s fascinating topography has been touted as the campsite’s main drawcard: wedged between immense grey granite boulders, the camping spots have been seamlessly integrated into the natural landscape. Mopane trees, undeterred, seemingly sprout from the rocks. This striking geology evokes a sense of the surreal and, at first glance, an immemorial place. I keep expecting a dinosaur to casually appear from behind a boulder at any moment.

Set against this towering backdrop, the massive stones carve out natural nooks and clever crannies, with eight spacious campsites – six designed for groups up to eight and two built for larger crews of up to fourteen – created for every kind of expedition. The larger camping sites include separate male and female ablution facilities, making life in the bush a little easier. Each site comes equipped with a practical kitchen area with running water and a washbasin. For those seeking a little extra comfort without the hassle of pitching a tent, Hoada also features four beautifully appointed permanent tents. These come fully furnished with comfy beds, bedside tables, a handy bench and private bathrooms skilfully constructed just behind each tent – glamping at its finest. Showers here are heated the traditional way: wood-fired “donkey” boilers, which the staff keep going morning and evening to ensure there is always hot water.

It is in one of these permanent tents that we gratefully set down our dust-covered backpacks. Parched yet relishing the warmer air, we make our way up the cobbled steps to the bar and deck, shaded by an old chestnut tree with large, pointed leaves sprawling over the timber flooring. Once a waterhole frequented by wildlife, the nearby splash pool has been reshaped into a welcoming oasis for campers. It blends so naturally into the landscape, you would think it had always been there. Like the rest of Hoada, the design favours subtlety over show: ecofriendly, and with a minimal carbon footprint. The result is complementary, rather than intrusive. Stark against an amber-dappled sky, the rocky outcrops of the Etendeka Plateau stand silhouetted in front of us. We pause, drinks in hand, to take in the view.

CLOSE ENCOUNTER

The campsite also features easily accessible hiking routes that meander between the rock formations. Eager to stretch our legs after a long drive, we set out to explore a nearby trail and manage, just, to sidestep a horned adder (a small, stout snake endemic to Southern Africa), blissfully burrowed into the sand-baked sand, soaking up the last dregs of summer before the winter months start to set in. Our startled gasps catch the attention of a cluster of Namibian campers, who quickly

form a circle around the seemingly nonchalant – yet highly venomous – viper. A few cautiously ecstatic photos are snapped, before some pleasantries are exchanged (ranging from “Look how well it blends into the sand” to “You were just an inch from a bite!” and “Did you travel from Windhoek today?”). It is a spontaneous gathering sparked by local fascination. In a quintessentially Namibian move, one of the onlookers casually asks for a set of braai tongs from the nearest campsite. With practised ease – clearly not his first time – he expertly ushers our scaly companion away from the main path into the thorny undergrowth across the track. Surprise sighting aside, we venture on!

A PIONEER IN COMMUNITY-BASED CONSERVATION

Hoada Campsite falls under the same management as Grootberg Lodge, located just 25 km away, and is wholly owned by the community through the ≠Khoadi-//Hôas Conservancy. In the Nama/ Damara language, Hoada (pronounced “Waada”) loosely translates to a term meaning “everybody”. True to its name, the campsite has become widely recognised as a pioneer in communal stewardship and conservation success.

The conservancy is home to a significant population of desert-adapted elephants, black rhinos and lions. In the past, this abundance often led to frequent human-wildlife conflict, as well as a steep decline in wildlife numbers due to uncontrolled hunting and poaching. Since its registration, the ≠ Khoadi-// Hôas Conservancy has introduced a compensation scheme to reduce the financial burden of such conflict, setting a benchmark for others in the integration of wildlife, livestock and water resources. The conservancy has ensured farmers have elevated water reservoirs, enclosed by a sturdy stone wall to deter curious, yet occasionally aggressive elephants eager to quench their thirst. Today, wildlife numbers continue to recover steadily within the conservancy. Visitors now have the rare chance to witness these endangered animals, unfenced and undisturbed, in their natural environment.

While staying at the campsite, guests can prebook activities offered by Grootberg Lodge (spending the day out before returning to the campsite) or opt for an indulgent camping experience at Hoada itself. One such offering is the Rhino Sleepout: a twonight, fully catered camping trip that pairs the thrill of tracking desert-adapted black rhinos with the wonder of sleeping beneath a quiet, starlit sky.

Yet the conservancy’s impact reaches far beyond simply safeguarding wildlife. The majority of staff at Hoada Campsite and Grootberg Lodge are

proudly employed from within the local community, and many, like our guide Deska, are keen storytellers. Deska joined Hoada Campsite eight years ago, initially as a maintenance hand, before completing his training to become a guide. These days, he welcomes guests on the Damara Cultural Walk, a rich and immersive cultural activity unique to the campsite.

A FRESH TAKE ON CULTURAL TOURISM

Early the next morning, while it is still dark, I hear the distinctive “cling!” of steel being placed on our stoep. Stepping outside the tent to inspect, I find a Stanley flask of hot water and a basket filled with freshly baked muffins. We seize the opportunity to brew some coffee before Deska arrives. For our walk, we plan to visit nearby conservancy farms and homesteads, including a few local households.

Under Deska’s attentive and knowledgeable lead, the area’s ecological treasures soon start to emerge. We slow down, taking time to examine each fluttering leaf, quartz-streaked stone, industrious dung beetles and even a lazy lizard, perfectly still and sheltered beneath a single tuft of yellow grass. During our walk, trees and plants are identified for their traditional or medicinal uses. At one point, Deska even pulls out a piece of calcified dassie (rock hyrax) dung from his backpack, black and dense like volcanic rock. When placed in hot water and steamed, it is believed to be beneficial for both men and women’s health.

And then, there is the mopane tree. The wondrous, multi-purpose Colophospermum mopane is a resilient, drought-resistant tree found throughout Southern Africa. The tree is a vital source of food for insects, birds and larger animals, such as the desert-adapted elephant, which happily gorge on its nutrient-rich, butterfly-shaped leaves. The tree even produces edible wax-like gums on its leaves called “mopane manna”, which are collected and eaten by people and monkeys. In the summer months, the leaves of the mopane tree are fed on by large numbers of dark greyish mopane worms, which can reach almost 10 cm long. These worms are stuffed with protein and are eaten as local cuisine, either roasted over fire or dried. Mopane wood is very robust and commonly used for kraals (an enclosure for livestock), building homes, as well as for firewood. Deska plucks a few ripe pods from a branch and hands them to us to peel open. Inside, a flat, kidney-shaped seed is revealed. When rubbed, it produces a sticky resin and emanates a strong, nutty aroma. Extracted from the seed, mopane oil is used for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as its surprisingly effective insect-repellent qualities.

Once on the farmland, Deska’s approach to the cultural walk is refreshingly unscripted and authentic. He reflects on how the ancient traditions and beliefs of the Damara

and Nama people have been fundamentally reshaped over recent decades, with many practices fading or entirely forgotten by the younger generation. Opening the door to his own home, he points to a calabash tucked away in the corner. Fresh or curdled milk was traditionally stored in a calabash, a cultivated plant that not only serves as food but, when dried and hollowed out, becomes a durable container, utensil or bowl. He lets us take it in before mischievously holding out a repurposed plastic container filled with milk. “I want to show the real side of our lives.”

Some traditions, though, have stood the test of time.

Scooping water from a bucket and mixing it with a handful of dried cow dung, he demonstrates how to create a claylike paste used to plaster the walls of traditional homes. Every few months, this mixture is reapplied to bolster the walls and keep the house intact. We wrap up the walk with a meal at Deska’s mother’s home, adding an unexpected personal touch to the experience. Plates of steaming oshifima, traditional pap made from ground maize meal, are served with a rich mash of spinach and potato. To round it all off, we are offered a pot of strong, sweet black tea, the flavours earthy and comforting. It is a simple meal, but deeply satisfying, made with care and served with an effortless hospitality that turns strangers into friends.

Just before reaching the campsite, I stop and gesture towards the trees growing straight from solid, unyielding rock, their roots clinging to stone as if by sheer will.

“How is this possible?” I ask Deska, only half-expecting an answer. He smiles and explains. Wind carries fine particles of soil, and over time, it settles into tiny crevices in the rock. Then, against all odds, a seed finds its home, and a tree begins to grow.

It feels like more than just a natural phenomenon. It is a quiet testament to the resilience of this region, how it adapts and endures through drought, heat and the slow passage of time. Much like Hoada Campsite itself: a remote retreat created in a place where few would imagine possible. And yet, it has taken root here, moulded by the land. Thriving. TN

WHERE THE ELEPHANTS WALK BELOW

Wild purpose at Nambwa

The sky was gold, deep orange and bright yellow – surreal, as though painted that morning by a hand in the sky with fresh, glistening oil paints. This land I had travelled to is part of my country, and yet it felt like another world entirely. What makes the light seem so different here?

And then, just as I was searching for the right words, the sun broke over the horizon – a giant, glowing red sphere of promise. The promise of a new day. The sun’s red dwarfed the orange sky before it, and, as if the crescendo of a symphony was playing in the background, it all gave way to the more subdued colours of the day. Pastel blues, purples and lilacs now swept the edges of the skyline. Another morning where colour danced visibly to the inaudible symphony of life. Another perfect morning in Africa. And this morning, I was perched high in the trees of Bwabwata National Park, at Nambwa Tented Lodge.

Bwabwata is one of Namibia’s most ecologically and culturally unique protected areas. It is a crucial corridor for large herds of elephants that move seasonally between Angola, Botswana and Zambia – part of an ancient migratory rhythm. Bwabwata takes its name from a small village within the park. It means “the sound of babbling water” – a fitting name, as this place does not shout for attention; it flows around you, constant and alive.

The Horseshoe Bend on the Kwando River is one of the park’s most iconic locations, known for its serene, sweeping beauty and dense gatherings of elephant. But it is not just about elephants. The park supports more than 35 large and medium-sized mammals – including buffalo, lion and leopard – and over 450 species of birds have been recorded here.

Just reaching this part of the world feels like a journey into something rare. Accessible only by 4x4, the road into this stretch of Bwabwata National Park winds through thick river sand and forested wilderness – a thrilling prelude to the seclusion that awaits.

BREATHING WITH THE WILD

There are places that don’t just welcome you; they envelope you. Nambwa Tented Lodge is one of them. Built on raised wooden platforms, the camp hides in the trees. Elevated walkways meander through the riverine forest, and the canvas suites blend into the canopy. Below, life moves as it always has… Elephants pass silently beneath, hippos snort at the river’s edge and leopard tracks mark the sand.

Nambwa’s Junior Ranger Programme

Image supplied

To stay at Nambwa is to tune in to a lullaby of wilderness. By day the treetops fill with birdsong. At night a lion calls so close that it resonates in your bones. The suites themselves are stunning: vast and luxurious, with crisp white linen, private lounges for reading and reflection and deep bathtubs perfectly positioned to watch wildlife in the Kwando River below. It is the kind of place where doing nothing becomes an immersive experience.

Mornings begin with rich, earthy coffee from Two Beards, roasted specially for African Monarch Lodges. It tastes best on the deck while wildlife wander in the distance. Game drives lead you through thick vegetation to Horseshoe Bend, where red lechwe leap across the water, their spray glistening in the morning light.

Evenings unfold at a slower rhythm. Giraffes silhouette against a pink sky, and a crisp Namibian craft gin, infused with local botanicals, marks the end of the day. Toasting the land with its own flavours – there is something grounding in that.

And then there is the food – easily the unexpected highlight of your stay. Fresh and thoughtful, each dish is masterfully balanced across four courses, with subtle threads linking each plate to the next. These connections are barely noticeable, but together they create a quiet symphony of decadence. From the delicate amusebouche to the elegant desserts, the journey is seamless and unforgettable. The food alone may just convince you to return, even if you never spot a single elephant.

We travelled as a family, our young child in tow, whose eyes lit up with delight at the idea of staying in a real-life treehouse connected by wooden walkways – the stuff of dreamy imagination. Though too young for the full Junior Ranger Programme, we were heartened to discover Nambwa’s thoughtful, child-friendly approach. For slightly older children, the lodge offers immersive safari

experiences that mix conservation education with playful discovery. It is a place where even young travellers can forge deep connections with the wild.

DRIVEN BY PURPOSE

But Nambwa is more than scenery. It is a sanctuary – for wildlife and for the people protecting it. As part of the African Monarch Lodges portfolio, Nambwa was built with the intention of offering extraordinary safari experiences while contributing meaningfully to conservation and community empowerment. A defining part of this commitment is that 12% of Nambwa’s revenue, before any deductions are made, goes directly to the Mayuni Conservancy – the community living adjacent to the park. Their role is not symbolic, but central to the lodge’s ethos. All general staff working at Nambwa are from the Mayuni Conservancy, and their stories reflect the deep impact of this partnership. One that stayed with us was that of the sous-chef, once a scullery worker who used to watch the kitchen team through the window while washing pots and pans. His quiet passion caught the chefs’ attention, and they began training him. Today, he not only helps prepare exquisite meals but personally introduces the menu to guests from around the world.

That sense of connection is what makes Nambwa feel so rooted. You are not just a guest here; you become part of a living, breathing ecosystem built on mutual respect between people and the planet. There is a clarity here –not just in the air, but in how life itself feels. These wild corners remind us of a fundamental truth: we do not need more things; we need more connection. Good food, good people and a fire shared under stars can nourish the soul far more than we often admit. TN

africanmonarchlodges.com | reservations@africanmonarchlodges.com

Cheetah Conservation Fund(CCF) is an International Research & Education Facility with a Cheetah Museum, a Model Farm, Cheetah Sanctuary, Cheetah café & Dancing goat creamery, all dedicated to the long-term survival of the species and is based 44km outside of Otjiwarongo. Day visitors are welcome, while our overnight visitors have a choice between the family and eco-friendly Cheetah View Lodge or the luxurious Babson House. We encourage school and university groups for educational day visits or for an immersive multi-day experience at Camp Lightfoot.

Daily activities include a tour of the Cheetah Centre and Cheetah Drive, while pre-booking is essential for the Cheetah Run, Behind the Scenes and Serengeti Drive. Enjoy a delicious meal at our Cheetah Cafe or visit the Dancing Goat Creamery, museum or gift shop.

CCF is open 364 days a year (closed only on Christmas day) from 08:00 to 17:00. Online: www.cheetahecolodge.com | Phone: +264 (0)61 237 294 / +264 (0)67 306225

Email: visit@ccfnamibia.com | Bookings: ccf@exclusive.com.na | www.cheetah.org

Toktokkie Beetle

Lions

Gemsbok

Flamingo

Photographs: Louis Wessels

A TRIBUTE TO THE GUARDIANS OF THE WILD

The 2025 RMB & Wilderness Ride for Rangers

ELZANNE MCCULLOCH

Photographs SHAWN VAN EEDEN

The desert wind howled across the plains, sculpting the landscape and teasing our resolve, but over four extraordinary days in Namibia’s remote northwest, we were reminded again and again why we ride.

The 2025 RMB & Wilderness Ride for Rangers took us deep into one of Africa’s last true wilderness areas, across stark valleys, dry riverbeds, and golden savannahs that pulse with life and silence in equal measure. Though the wind was relentless, nature offered its own kind of encouragement. Every morning began with a spectacular sunrise, every evening was bathed in the soft glow of a desert sunset, and every moment in between was filled with movement, discovery, and awe.

This ride was more than just a physical challenge. It was a celebration of the rangers, game guards, and communities who protect this land and its wild inhabitants. Formerly known as Ride for Rhinos, this annual cycling tour has entered a new chapter. Ride for Rangers honours the boots on the ground – the individuals who dedicate their lives to safeguarding the black rhino, desert-adapted elephants, lions, hyenas, and countless other species that call this landscape home.

On day one, as if nature itself was welcoming us, we encountered a herd of elephants in the Hoanib River. Young calves tumbled gleefully down sandy embankments while the adults ambled slowly behind them, unhurried and serene. For many of us, it was our first time seeing elephants so relaxed, so close, so alive in their element.

The cycling was tough. Some climbs seemed endless, the gravel unforgiving, and the sun unrelenting – but it was all worth it. Each day ended around a crackling fire under a full moon, where conversations flowed as freely as the laughter. We spoke of Namibia, of its people and wild spaces, of conservation victories and the challenges that remain. The stories shared were as powerful as the landscapes we had crossed.

One afternoon on a nature drive, we witnessed something truly special: a lone black rhino browsing quietly among the brush. We kept our distance, respectful and still, sipping gin sundowners as the animal moved unaware of our presence. To observe a rhino like this – in peace, undisturbed – felt like a blessing. A rare privilege. A reminder of what’s at stake.

We also spotted giraffe among Ana and Shepherd’s trees, zebra camouflaged against the stones, springbok darting across the plains, and even an aardwolf that darted across our path at dusk. Each sighting added a new layer to the story we were living — wild, unscripted, and deeply moving.

On our final day, we were joined by Emsie Verwey, researcher and head of the Skeleton Coast Brown Hyena Project based at Wilderness Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp. Her talk offered a fascinating glimpse into one of Namibia’s most elusive carnivores and reminded us that conservation doesn’t stop with the charismatic megafauna. Every species matters. Every effort counts.

The RMB & Wilderness Ride for Rangers is not just a tour. It’s a journey of purpose, created by Venture Media, supported by committed sponsors – RMB Namibia, Wilderness, and CYMOT – and made possible through the generosity of many. We are deeply grateful to Superspar for sponsoring all the groceries that sustained us and to The Taste Academy’s Rhona and Louis, whose incredible bush catering amazed and brought warmth and joy to every meal. Early mornings and coffee stops were made all the better by Deluxe Coffeeworks and their incredible brews.

Above all, we thank the riders and participants who joined the 2025 ride. Their grit, laughter, generosity, and shared passion made this journey what it was – a tribute to the guardians of the wild and a love letter to Namibia. TN

Wherever your journey in Namibia takes you this spring—north, south, east, or west—there’s a Wecke & Voigts SPAR store perfectly placed as your final convenient stop before leaving Windhoek. Stock up, grab a bite, or find that special something before you hit the road. Here’s where to go:

Berg Street, Camelthorn Pod, Klein Windhoek

Heading east or towards the airport? SPAR Klein Windhoek is your upscale exit point. This beautifully maintained store offers a curated wine selection for connoisseurs and casual sippers alike, along with a boutique bakery full of irresistible fresh breads and pastries. Gourmet heat-and-eat meals make it easy to stock up for the road—or for a quiet evening at your destination.

Kingfisher Road, Hochland Park, Windhoek

Traveling west or southwards? Hochland SPAR is a favorite for hearty traditional Namibian meals from the HMR section, perfect for an on-the-go feast. The in-house bakery and everyday grocery essentials make your pitstop efficient. Don’t forget to visit Hochland TOPS next door for your beverage needs—stocked with wines, coolers, and local favorites.

YOUR PERFECT LAST STOP

Before Your Travel

10023 Scheppmann Street, Pionierspark, Windhoek

If you’re leaving via the western suburbs or heading toward the coast, Westlane SPAR has what you need. Known for some of the best biltong in town, this location also boasts a cozy coffee shop, ready-made meals, and well-stocked shelves for all your essentials. One quick stop, and you’re road-ready—with Westlane TOPS just next door for all things celebratory.

Maerua Lifestyle Centre, Centaurus Road, Windhoek

Exiting via the south or connecting through central Windhoek? Maerua’s SUPERSPAR offers premium quality across the board. With a standout butchery, wellness section, and one of the best selections of braai tools around, it’s a go-to for weekend travelers. Efficient, central, and reliable—just what you need before a getaway.

Klein Windhoek Hochland Westlane Maerua Grove

Grove Mall, Chasie Street, Kleine Kuppe,Windhoek

If you’re heading southeast or towards the Auas Mountains, stop at Grove SUPERSPAR. With everything from fresh produce and pantry staples to a mini health section and a standout sushi offering in the HMR area, this is convenience wrapped in quality. Even better—get in and out quickly with free parking for visits under an hour.

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Klein Windhoek

Hochland Westlane

Maerua Grove

The