CONTENT MANAGER Le Roux van Schalkwyk leroux@venture.com.na
PUBLIC RELATIONS Elzanne McCulloch elzanne@venture.com.na
PRODUCTION & LAYOUT Liza Lottering liza@venture.com.na
CUSTOMER SERVICE Bonn Nortjé bonn@venture.com.na
TEXT CONTRIBUTORS
Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Elzanne McCulloch, Charene Labuschagne, Kirsty Watermeyer, Jane Froggart, Willie Olivier, Linda de Jager, Christine Hugo, Mburaje Keja, Stéphanie Périquet-Pearce
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Le Roux van Schalkwyk, Elzanne McCulloch, Liza Lottering, Willie Olivier, Wüstenquell Lodge, Nico Scholtz, Bernardo Hillary Bons Roman, Sofia Perez Noeh, Tiffany Steenkamp, Charene Labuschagne, Stéphanie Périquet-Pearce, Kirsty Watermeyer, Karl Andre Terblanche, Kirsty Brits, Shawn van Eeden, Hannes Smit, Jane Froggart, Wildlife Initiative / CNT
Travel Namibia is published quarterly, distributed worldwide via Zinio digital newsstand and in physical format in southern Africa. The editorial content of TN is contributed by the Venture Media team, freelance writers and journalists. It is the sole property of the publisher and no part of the magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press. Due to uncertain circumstances, this may have changed after the date of publication. Please check businesses' individual websites for up-to-date details.
Industry partners:
Spring 2024
FAST FACTS ON NAMIBIA
824,268 km²
INDEPENDENCE:
21 March 1990
CURRENT PRESIDENT: Nangolo Mbumba
Multiparty parliament
Democratic constitution Division of power between executive, legislature and judiciary
Secular state
Christian freedom of religion
SURFACE AREA: Windhoek CAPITAL: 90%
ROADS:
NATURE RESERVES: of surface area
MAIN PRIVATE SECTORS: Mining, Manufacturing, Fishing and Agriculture 46%
BIGGEST EMPLOYER: Agriculture
FASTEST-GROWING SECTOR: Information Communication Industry
Diamonds, uranium, copper, lead, zinc, magnesium, cadmium, arsenic, pyrites, silver, gold, lithium minerals, dimension stones (granite, marble, blue sodalite) and many semiprecious stones
CURRENCY:
The Namibia Dollar (N$) is fixed to and on par with the SA
Foreign currency, international Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club credit cards are accepted.
TAX AND CUSTOMS
All goods and services are priced to include value-added tax of 15%. Visitors may reclaim VAT.
ENQUIRIES: Namibia Revenue Agency (NamRA) Tel (+264) 61 209 2259 in Windhoek
Public transport is NOT available to all tourist destinations in Namibia.
There are bus services from Windhoek to Swakopmund as well as Cape Town/Johannesburg/Vic Falls. Namibia’s main railway line runs from the South African border, connecting Windhoek to Swakopmund in the west and Tsumeb in the north.
There is an extensive network of international and regional flights from Windhoek and domestic charters to all destinations.
HIGHEST MOUNTAIN: Brandberg
OTHER PROMINENT MOUNTAINS: vegetation zones
Spitzkoppe, Moltkeblick, Gamsberg
PERENNIAL RIVERS: Orange, Kunene, Okavango, Zambezi and Kwando/Linyanti/Chobe
EPHEMERAL RIVERS: Numerous, including Fish, Kuiseb, Swakop and Ugab
FLORA
20% 14 400 680
species of trees
ENDEMIC plant species
120+
species of lichen
LIVING FOSSIL PLANT: Welwitschia mirabilis
BIG GAME: Elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, cheetah, leopard, giraffe
20 antelope species 250 mammal species (14 endemic) 256 699
50 reptile species
bird species
ENDEMIC BIRDS including Herero Chat, Rockrunner, Damara Tern, Monteiro’s Hornbill and Dune Lark frog species 15%
WATER
Most tap water is purified and safe to drink.
Visitors should exercise caution in rural areas. GMT + 2 hours
ELECTRICITY
220 volts AC, 50hz, with outlets for round three-pin type plugs
HARBOURS: Walvis Bay, Lüderitz
MAIN AIRPORTS: Hosea Kutako International Airport, Eros Airport RAIL NETWORK:
6.2 telephone lines per 100 inhabitants
MOBILE COMMUNICATION SYSTEM:
Direct-dialling facilities to 221 countries
GSM agreements with 150 countries / 80 networks
0.4182 medical doctor per 1,000 people privately run hospitals in Windhoek with intensive-care units
4
Medical practitioners (world standard) 24-hour medical emergency services
2.6 million DENSITY: 3 per km²
461 000 inhabitants in Windhoek (15% of
EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS: over 1,900 schools, various vocational and tertiary institutions
FOREIGN
More than 50 countries have Namibian consular or embassy representation in Windhoek.
Rand. The South African Rand is also legal tender.
The ADVENTURE issue
In all my travels I’ve never come across a place that so naturally lends itself towards the word.
By my personal definition, every new experience is an adventure. The first time you get on a horse – an adventure. The first day at a new job – the start of a new adventure. Your first hike or nature walk through the untamed African bush –definitely an adventure. But then so too is that first flight in a small plane across towering sand dunes, the first taste of gemsbok steak, or perhaps even your first meeting with someone from a culture so vastly different from your own that you feel as if you might have been transported to a new world. Now you’ve certainly realised that you’re on an adventure.
When you find yourself in a place where wilderness, wildness, and the extraordinary looms around every bend, you can’t help but acknowledge that this place is built different.
Namibia is such a place. Where adventure can be found in the smallest moments and the most profound experiences. From going on a four-day mountain biking tour through the dramatic and rugged wilderness of Namibia’s northwestern Damaraland, or seeing a new species of bird for the very first time as your guide points it out to you on a game drive through a private reserve or national park. Whether you’re skydiving, kayaking, mountaineering, absailing, diving, or meeting small reptiles on a living desert tour, gliding down lush waterways on a boat at sunset, or sipping a gin and tonic from atop a red sand dune. Adventure is prolific and exalting across all of Namibia. And, irrespective of your personal preferences or level of daring, at the end of the day every new experience in Namibia is an adventure.
In this issue of Travel Namibia, we take you on adventures both big and small. From meeting seals and surfing down sand dunes along the coast, to exploring the country’s most daunting caves and diving down to the mysterious depths of Dragon’s Breath, the world's largest underground lake. We mountain bike for endangered species and visit the newly reimagined Desert Rhino Camp – a stalwart partner in the fight for black rhino conservation. From crazy runners to the world’s fastest runners – we learn about what motivates extreme athletes to traverse vast deserts, and how we can support cheetahs through citizen science. All along the way we explore the unique, new and authentic experiences that make Namibia special.
We hope you visit us soon and find your unique and new.
Namibia is for the adventurers. The roaming hearts and travelling minds. The ones who find beauty wherever they go. Those filled with wanderlust and wonder. Who look at every sunrise and every sunset as if it is their very first, or very last.
With love from Namibia,
Elzanne McCulloch
ON THE COVER
Save the Rhino Trust rangers look on as a desert-dapated rhino they are monitoring spot them across Damaraland's rugged terrains.
Courtesy: Wilderness FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
CONTENTS
In this issue
WÜSTENQUELL p12
Far from the Madding Crowd
SPOT, SNAP AND SHARE p50
Your sightings of cheetahs and leopards in Etosha
RUNNING WILD
p54
Discovering the beauty of Namibia on foot with Kirsty Brits and exploring Namibia's ultramarathons with Hannes Smit
FORGING A NATURAL MASTERPIECE p62
Fish River Lodge
THE LAND BEFORE TIME |
Desert Rhino Camp
Dream of the wonders that await you in distant lands.
Connect with vibrant cultures and welcoming people.
Create lasting memories through immersive experiences.
Experience all that the world has to offer.
BUSH TELEGRAPH | News from the tourism industry
RUACANA WATERFALL | Why it deserves a spot on your Namibia itinerary
POFADDER CAVE | Narrow spaces and narrow shaves
DRAGON'S BREATH | The spirit of the dragon and this thing called life
THE FUTURE IS FEMALE | GIZ Biodiversity Economy Project in Damaraland
RIDE FOR RHINOS | A mountain-biking adventure fueled by purpose
DESERT REVERIE | Kwessi Dunes Lodge 61 DEBMARINE | Celebrating yields in rice and poultry production in the Omusati Region 70 LITTLE ONGAVA | A luxury never to be taken for granted
72 LÜDERITZ SPEED CHALLENGE | The Namibian water sports event of world renown that you have probably never heard of 75 READER'S STORY | Black Rock Campsite 76 A COASTAL SAFARI | Sand, Sea, and Seals
BUSH TELEGRAPH
News from the tourism industry
THE VALUE OF TOURISM IN MONETARY TERMS
The latest data revealed into the monetary impact of tourism in Namibia, shows that it contributes 6.9% to the Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and providies employment opportunities for nearly 60,000 individuals. Notably, the direct economic impact of the tourism sector on the national GDP has nearly doubled from 3.5% in 2015 to 6.9% in 2022, amounting to a substantial value of N$14.3 billion.
According to the Minister of Environment, Forestry and Tourism, Pohamba Shifeta, the 2022 Namibia Tourist Satellite Account Report showed that there was a remarkable surge in international tourism, witnessing a record-breaking 98.1% increase from 232,756 tourist arrivals in 2021 to 461,027 in 2022.
AFRICA’S FIRST WILDERNESS QUIET PARK
The NamibRand Nature Reserve has been honoured as Africa’s first Wilderness Quiet Park by Quiet Parks International (QPI). This accolade makes NamibRand the fourth public space globally to receive Wilderness Quiet Park status. The initiative to promote quiet places underscores the importance of habitat preservation and highlights the numerous benefits these tranquil areas offer both wildlife and humans. Matt Mikkelsen, Executive Director of Wilderness Quiet Parks, notes that “NamibRand encourages reverence for its ecosystems and fosters a deeper connection to nature.”
Le Roux van Schalkwyk
DOROS JOINT MANAGEMENT AREA
The Namibia Nature Foundation, Save the Rhino Trust, and Ultimate Safaris’ Conservation Travel Foundation working together with the Doro !Nawas, Sorris Sorris, and Uibasen Twyfelfontein Conservancies have created a new, 28,000 hectare, Doros Joint Management Area, which will become the single largest registered communal land leasehold in Namibia once registered. The Doros Joint Management Area adds to Namibia’s existing conservation success story as it is the first time in the country’s history that three conservancies have joined forces to register a large tract of land for conservation.
The approach to protecting the living landscapes under the Doros Joint Management Area project has seen Ultimate Safaris nominated for the 2024 PURE Awards in the conservation category. The PURE Awards are about honouring those who push boundaries, champion creativity, and use travel to empower communities and protect the planet.
NAMIBIAN COMPANY FIRST TO EARN B CORP CERTIFICATION IN SOUTHERN AFRICA
ATI Holidays has become southern Africa's first travel company to earn B Corp certification, marking a milestone in sustainable tourism. This certification reflects a commitment to using business as a force for good, ensuring social and environmental responsibility. The rigorous certification process assesses governance, worker welfare, community impact, environmental practices, and customer engagement. ATI Holidays' achievement signifies a new standard for responsible travel, combining unforgettable safaris with community empowerment and environmental sustainability.
B Corp, a movement founded in 2006 in the USA, represents companies committed to using profit for purpose and ensuring positive impacts on all stakeholders. There are currently almost 8,000 B Corps in over 90 countries, and the movement is growing fast.
LÜDERITZ HOSTS MISS NAMIBIA EVENT
Residents of Lüderitz are overjoyed that their hometown was selected for the honour of hosting this year's coveted Miss Namibia event. An expression of interest by the Lüderitz Waterfront Company culminated in this special southern town being chosen, with Lüderitz Nest Hotel being the official accommodation sponsor for the pageant finalists and Namibian Broadcasting Corporation crew.
TOURISM-FOCUSED CUSTOMER SERVICE TRAINING FOR SADC IMMIGRATION OFFICIALS
The Southern African Development Community (SADC) recently conducted a pioneering Train the Trainer Tourism Customer Service Workshop in Johannesburg, South Africa. Over 40 immigration officials from 11 member states, including Namibia, attended this initiative. This programme aims to improve customer service skills, cultural sensitivity, and effective communication, fostering a welcoming atmosphere for tourists. By training officials to enhance their interactions with travellers, SADC seeks to boost tourism and create positive, lasting impressions of southern Africa.
GRANIETKOP COMMUNITY CAMPSITE REOPENS
Ultimate Safaris, through their Conservation Travel Foundation, partnered with the Community Conservation Fund of Namibia and the Doro !Nawas Conservancy to refurbish and re-open the Granietkop Campsite. Nearly N$1 million has been invested in water security, campsite upgrades, solar-powered reception, and back-ofhouse improvements. After more than a decade of disrepair, the campsite recently reopened, benefiting the Doro !Nawas Community. Bookings are now open at www.granietkop.com. TN
WÜSTENQUELL
Far from the Madding Crowd
Text & Photographs Willie Olivier
Peace, tranquillity, absolute silence and wide-open spaces are becoming increasingly rare commodities. If there is one place in Namibia where you can enjoy all of this, it is Wüstenquell Lodge, which is open to visitors again after it was closed for many years.
Bordering on the Namib-Naukluft Park to the south, the lodge is situated on the historic 6,000-hectare Modderfontein farm. It owes its name (meaning “mud fountain”) to the six springs which once surfaced in the area. Sadly, only one spring is still active – the result of prolonged droughts and abstraction of water by mines.
One of Wüstenquell’s main attractions is its fascinating geology, which is dominated by gravel plains that are punctuated by granite outcrops. Centuries of erosion by wind, extreme temperatures, fog drifting inland and the crystallisation of salt concentrates that dislodge tiny rock fragments have created the most bizarre natural rock sculptures.
As the name suggests, Eagle Rock resembles an eagle with its wings spread out, while another rock formation has been sculpted into the profile of an elephant. You could come across an unexpected “hippopotamus” standing right in front of you, or the profile of a cat appearing in the distance. The centre of some rocks has been eroded completely, creating a window to the landscape beyond.
The honeycomb formations are equally fascinating. These cavities of various sizes are created by the disintegration of weaker areas of rock under the protective layers of the hard crusts. As time goes by, the small cavities continue to enlarge, a process which is accelerated by the sandblasting of the winds.
Also punctuating the landscape are smooth granite outcrops. Another process, known as onion-skin weathering, can be observed at these outcrops. As a result of the fluctuation of temperatures between the warm outer rock layer and the cooler rock underneath, as well as pressure release, layers of granite peel off – a process also referred to as exfoliation.
A cavern at one of the granite outcrops is a reminder of the San (generally also referred to as Bushmen) who once made it their home. They used one of the rock surfaces as a natural canvas to depict the trance visions of a shaman (medicine man). The rock paintings can only be viewed on a guided rock formation tour to ensure that they are not tampered with.
Stargazing is another attraction at Wüstenquell. Situated far away from the bright lights of urban areas, the clear night skies offer the perfect opportunity for those fascinated by astronomy, or just the beauty of the stars.
Tracks across the plains betray the presence of Hartmann’s mountain zebra, springbok, gemsbok and ostriches. They tend to be skittish, only moving about at night, and often migrate to other areas if there has been little or no local rain, or if the grazing has been depleted. After good rains, however, the plains are quickly transformed into waving grasslands. Numerous holes of the elusive aardvark provide a clue of this nocturnal species’ whereabouts, while the Cape fox has also been recorded in the area.
Wüstenquell
Wüstenquell Lodge
Wüstenquell Lodge
You might even hear the howling of a black-backed jackal every once in a while.
However, the Namib is more renowned for its rich diversity of reptiles, beetles, spiders and other lesser creatures. They have adapted in unique ways to survive in this inhospitable desert environment.
Birdlife is not prolific in this desolate area, but you could tick off the biggest of them all, the ostrich, or you might just hear the toad-like croaking duet of the Rüppell’s Korhaan. The Bokmakierie, named after its onomatopoeic call, is another species that can easily be identified by its distinctive vocalisation, while the Tractrac Chat and Pale-winged Starling are among the other species recorded here.
Clumps of the smelly shepherd’s bush (Boscia foetida) dominate the sparsely vegetated gravel plains. Its common names refer to the unpleasant smell produced by its small, green-yellow flowers. Also conspicuous on the plains are clumps of the Damara euphorbia (Euphorbia damarana), while the candelabra euphorbia (Euphorbia virosa) is found mainly on the slopes of rocky hills.
Large trees, such as the camel thorn (Vachellia erioloba) and scrawny wild ebony (Euclea pseudebenus) trees are restricted to river washes. The only evergreen tree is the hardy mustard bush (Salvadora persica) which is usually found in dry river washes and on riverbanks.
A few kilometres before reaching the gate to the lodge, you will pass the historic Jakkalswater farm which was one of the stations on the Staatsbahn (state railway line). Construction of the railway line between Swakopmund and Windhoek started in September 1897 and reached Jakkalswater in April 1899. Despite its name, the water at Jakkalswater was not suitable for the boilers of the locomotives and a 7.5-kilometre rail link was built to Modderfontein where “soft” water could be obtained from a well.
The 98-kilometre journey from Swakopmund to Jakkalswater, which also had a post office, took a good six to seven hours and on arrival the passengers enjoyed lunch at the railway station before continuing their journey. The line to Windhoek was opened in 1902 but closed again in 1909 when the German administration took over the OMEG line which ran parallel to the Staatsbahn for 145 kilometres. Although
there is no evidence of the railway line today, the well at Modderfontein and the stone walls of a building are reminders of the pioneering days of the country’s railway history.
To protect the fragile environment, self-drives are not permitted. Guests can, however, set off on a guided three-hour rock formation tour or a two-hour sunset drive during which they will enjoy sundowners from the summit of one of the rock outcrops. By far the best way to experience Wüstenquell, though, is on foot and there are plans to conduct three fully catered three-day slackpacking trails in 2025. Other activities in the planning stages are a self-guided interpretive trail and a mountain bike trail.
Wüstenquell is operated by Whipps Wilderness Safaris, a family-run business. Items found on the farm have been repurposed and turned into furniture for the rooms, creating a less-is-more feeling. The main lodge of this mid-range priced establishment has five en-suite rooms with air-conditioning (very much welcome on a hot summer’s day), a lovely shaded terrace with expansive views of the Langer Heinrich Mountain, which forms an impressive backdrop in the south, a restaurant and bar. Guests can order breakfast (continental or a hot), with fresh home-baked bread, while the lunch menu
features a choice of light meals. The three-course dinner changes daily.
Accommodation is also available at the Rondavel – a fully equipped self-catering unit for four people behind the main lodge. The Zebra Outpost, a fully equipped self-catering unit for four people is situated a few kilometres from the main lodge at Modderfontein. There are also two secluded campsites for those who prefer sleeping under the stars.
If you are planning a visit to Wüstenquell during the winter months, be warned: early morning and overnight temperatures can be bitterly cold, so remember to pack enough warm clothing.
With a maximum of ten guests in the rooms at the main lodge, guests will enjoy the feeling of being far away from the busyness of civilisation. TN
For more information, contact bookings@wuestenquell.com or the lodge and reservations on +264 81 483 0424.
Wüstenquell Lodge
Ruacana Waterfall Why
deserves a spot on your Namibia itinerary
Ruacana Waterfall is not a destination that tops the “why you should visit Namibia” click-bait lists. In fact, it rarely even makes the list, if I think about it. Why is this natural wonder, situated on the stretch of the Kunene River downstream toward Swartbooisdrift, so often left off itineraries proposed by travel agents? Le Roux van Schalkwyk explores...
The first indication that you are approaching the town of Ruacana is a welcome sign with letters that have broken off long ago, guarded by a statue of a headless Himba woman. Not much of a welcome to the town that shares its name with Namibia’s largest waterfall. At 120 metres high and 700 metres wide when the Kunene River is in flood, Ruacana is one of Africa’s largest falls measured by volume and width. Why, then, is Ruacana not one of the premier tourism spots in the country?
The simple answer is that the Ruacana Hydroelectric Power Station, set above the falls, uses most of the water for hydroelectric production during the greater part of the year. During the dry season, the flow of water to the hydroelectric station is regulated through the Calueque Dam about 40 km upstream in Angola. The diversion weir situated above the falls feeds the 8-metre-wide underground pressure tunnel that stretches 1,500 metres from the Angolan side and leads to the surge head bay of the power station. Unfortunately, this means the Ruacana in its full glory can only be seen when the Kunene is in flood, fed by the annual monsoons in central Angola. This occurs roughly from December to May.
It is interesting to note that when the Kunene is in flood, the Ruacana Power Station’s three turbines push out 347 megawatts. At Namibia’s current demand of 750 megawatts, almost half is generated by the hydroelectric plant. Unfortunately, this maximum output only lasts for a couple of months, depending on the rainfall in the Kunene’s catchment area.
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN
FOR TOURISM?
The full flow of the waterfall is very season-based and raindependent. This does not make it easy to book a trip and have
the certainty of experiencing Ruacana in its full splendour. But it does not mean potential tourists should be put off by this fact. Because this area is less developed for tourism than other parts of the country, it means that it is the ideal place to explore for the more adventurous. We visited the area in the dry season to see if it is still worth a visit.
To start with, Ruacana is very accessible. Two tarmac roads give access from the south and east – the C35 is perfect for anyone travelling from Etosha National Park and the C46 for those travelling through the culturally rich land of the Aawambo. Running west along the river is the D3700 gravel road. This road leads to Swartbooisdrift and will eventually reach Ruacana’s popular smaller cousin, the Epupa Falls. From Swartbooisdrift you can also travel south to Opuwo from where travellers can venture deeper into the Kaokoveld.
WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT TO DO
The town of Ruacana is 25 km to the east of the falls and is an interesting visit, as it was built during the construction of the hydropower station in the early 1970s to house its employees. It was also the location of the military base during the border war.
The town has a service station and shop, but do not expect much more. The people who live here are very friendly and a mix of the local OvaZemba and OvaHimba people as well as NamPower employees. Due to its small size, walking is the ideal way to explore the town with its large mopane and purplepod terminalia trees. It is also interesting to note the relics from a previous era, like the half-moon-shaped corrugated iron segments, still seen in some backyards, which used to be part of bomb shelters.
Ruacana Guest House is situated on the eastern end of the town. With its green gardens and comfortable rooms, it serves as a relaxing place to kick up your feet after a long day’s drive or exploring the surrounding area. Owner Anne-Mare van
Stairs to Ruacana Falls
Tjonkuvi Otjiruwo
Omunjandi
Hippo Pools
Tjonkuvi Otjiruwo
Schalkwyk is not only a great host, but having lived here for a long time, she is a great source of information if you have questions about the town and its people.
Leaving town and driving west on the D3700 towards the falls gives you a glimpse of the colourful local populace as they go about their daily routines. Cattle and goats roam about, plenty of amusing shebeen names are on display and an open-air market awaits next to the main road.
Be on the lookout for a spot where you can pull off the road around 12 km from town. From here, a short walk will take you to a lookout point that offers an elevated view of the distant weir and waterfall to its left.
The viewpoint for Ruacana Waterfall is situated close to the border crossing. Even during the dry season, it is a must-visit site, with only a couple of streams cascading down the rock faces. It remains picturesque, nonetheless.
Stairs to the west of this lookout point take you down for views from ground level. Here the remains of the first small power station can be visited. It was set up to supply power for the construction of the main hydroelectric plant and decommissioned on completion of the project. Be careful, as some of these stairs have been flooded and require careful climbing to descend.
Heading downstream towards Swartbooisdrift, there are a couple of accommodation options:
HIPPO POOLS
This community campsite is set on a white sandbank under massive mopane and leadwood trees. It is conveniently situated close to the falls, but be aware that this area is prone to flooding in the rainy season and might not be accessible.
TJONKUVI OTJIRUWO
On a raised bank of the Kunene, this campsite has a great view of the river below the falls. It offers neat, lawned campsites as well as a communal area with a bar and pool.
OMUNJANDI RESTCAMP
Also located on the waters of the Kunene, the rest camp gets its name from the huge omunjandi or jackalberry trees that create a densely shaded camping area – much needed, especially during the summer months. Apart from the campsites, Omunjandi also offers five luxury tents as well as a self-catering chalet that sleeps four. The activities on offer include hiking, Himba village tours and sundowners.
RAYCANA
The new kid on the block, Raycana, recently opened its doors and caters to all types of campers with its two campsites. Situated on a koppie to the south of the road, this can be seen as the premier campsite. The views of the river and surrounding Kaokoveld steal the show. Apart from the shaded campsites, there is a large communal area with a tuck shop as well as a sundowner spot that arguably has the best view in the area. The other campsite is north of the road on the tree-lined riverbank. This one is for the more rugged or selfsufficient campers, as the facilities are more basic. They offer guided day hikes, a seven-day hike from Ruacana to Epupa and Himba village tours.
The Ruacana area is rich in culture and natural beauty. Even if the waterfall is not in flood, there is plenty to explore around the town and along the river. When planning your next trip, be sure to add Ruacana to the list. TN
The very first site to be referred to as Ruacana was a trading post in the area on the banks of the Kunene River, established in the early 1800s by Portuguese traders. They named it after the Himba chief at the time, called Ruhacana. They could not pronounce his name correctly and this is where the current spelling originates from. The local name for the area remains unknown.
Raycana
Raycana
POFADDER CAVE Narrow spaces and narrow shaves
If tourists contemplate a visit to Pofadder Cave close to Grootfontein, they should be warned in advance: anyone who is afraid of the dark or has an crippling fear of confined spaces should think twice before they venture into the second largest cave in Namibia. Some prior experience of abseiling is also recommended. Luckily, although it is a very shallow cave, I realised from the outset that it would be wise to film the cave with the guidance of experts: entomologist and spelaeologist John Irish and geologist Nico Scholtz were great choices both in terms of expertise and guidance.
Within moments of entering, the roots of trees growing in the cave can be seen in the probing light of the explorer’s torch. John, a frequent visitor to Pofadder Cave, was present when it was discovered in 1987. On my excursion he was therefore first to go down to show me the extensive root formations that penetrate from a wild fig growing close to the cave’s entrance. Wild fig is a tree species that loves to sprout near sink holes in order to send its roots spiralling down to the water below.
Getting to the bottom of the first chamber requires a fourteen metre abseil. The tree roots had clearly served as a handy foothold for the few visitors who have negotiated this passage before us. Bat droppings were soon noticeable and it was not long before we saw one of these cave dwellers in action. But due to the high humidity the bats are not as numerous here as they are in other caves. Like humans, bats are not comfortable when the air becomes too stuffy. A narrow fissure took us down to the first chamber.
Very soon our flashlight illuminated a treasure trove of stalagmites and stalactites. Pofadder Cave apparently also
boasts unique ‘organic stalagmites’, consisting of intertwined hair roots found in places where water is constantly dripping, but at the time we were not lucky enough to find such examples. A geological wonder world awaited in chamber upon chamber, but the flashlights of course belied the pitch darkness that normally reigns here. I noticed that the Barn Owl which stayed down there during the day was the only one that appeared perfectly at ease.
Stalactites are formed from the roof of a cave and stalagmites develop from the bottom of the cave upwards. Geologist Nico Scholtz pointed out how unbelievable it is that a stalagmite was forming at the very moment that we were standing there. “If you move closer you will see that it is still wet… it is mainly calcium carbonate hardening on the cave floor… the water is saturated with calcium carbonate and as the water evaporates the calcium carbonate remains behind, forming a stalactite above us and dripping down to form a stalagmite on the cave floor,” Nico explained. “It takes hundreds of years to form. Here you come to realise the span of geological time in comparison to our lives. We think a hundred years is a long time, but in geological time it is the blink of the eye. This cave is very young – and already it is a couple of million years old.”
Text Linda de Jager | Photographs Nico Scholtz
Nico, whose passion clearly is geology, said that he loves visiting caves because of their uniqueness. He also pointed to the combination of eeriness and beauty awaiting a visitor to this underground world, and to the fact that only a small handful of people have seen what you are witnessing. “In a time when we like to think that all wonderful sights have been discovered and seen, a cave takes your breath away,” he maintains.
John’s interest in caves is fostered by the unique forms of life that may occur down there – in these dark spaces you will usually find him on his hands and knees. To reach other chambers of Pofadder Cave you literally have to pass through a world of intertwined roots from the trees on the surface. The cave is not very deep and the roots can therefore reach far down into the cave. John pointed out that the roots are forever searching for water. Evaporating water also makes the underground atmosphere very humid. It was thrilling to observe a world literally underneath a tree, being able to see and touch the root hair that helps to absorb the water the plant needs. The thicker and larger roots found in the other chambers do not take up water directly but are part of the ‘veins’ of the tree from which the root hair sprouts.
Interestingly, this is how the cave got its name: the roots curl over the floor and as you pass them with your flashlight their shadows create the illusion that they are moving – very much like snakes. Hence the name Pofadder Cave.
One of John’s favourite bugs is a little guy with blue mouldiness on its back. It is a small beetle – known as the muf-jantjie in Afrikaans – from the same family as the tapping beetle. John said you often find them in caves, although there are also similar species living above ground. They feed on bat droppings and anything else they might find. [Muf-jantjie. No English name. Family: Tenebrionidae, Eurychora sp.]
John also pointed to an insect with exceptionally elongated legs. “This is an assassin bug. Most bugs suck plant sap but this one catches its prey and sucks its blood.” [Roofwants Assassin bug. Family: Reduviidae]
“It is interesting to note that this cave-dwelling assassin bug is of a very light colour. Because it lives down here in the dark, it is busy losing its pigmentation,” John said. He also explained that elongated body parts are often characteristic of cave-dwelling insects. “Because they spend their lives in the dark they want to increase their area of sensitivity as much as possible, so that if anything approaches them they are aware of it as soon as possible. Therefore you find them with long, spindly legs, elongated antennae and all such manner of extensions.”
You also find other things in this cave that let your hair stand on end – like hairy worms, the larva of a moth. “Moths like dark places. They cannot survive here and have to find their food outside. But they lay their eggs down here and the eggs hatch and become worms which then become pupa and then turn into moths. At that point they have to exit the cave to find food,” John said.
Given the fact that bats and caves go together, a visitor to Pofadder Cave must also be prepared to constantly duck the cave bats. It is very warm in Pofadder Cave and all the water evaporates, but the vapour cannot escape. The relative humidity in a cave like Pofadder is up to 100 per cent – as humid as if we were placed inside a rain cloud. Add temperatures of at least 25 degrees centigrade and one understands why steam rises from everything in the cave.
Looking back in history, caves were seen as important resources during German colonial times, because in remote areas some of them were the only reliable source of fresh water. It is ironic that more than a hundred years later we are trying to establish if the same was true for Pofadder Cave. We squeezed through another couple of narrow passages looking for the hoped-for fresh water. Navigating still other narrow passages eventually led us to the ‘promised land’: the cave’s lake, so clean and blue. Nico’s words, “it took my breath away”, would soon prove to be prophetic: the water can be best described as spectacular and bluer than blue. At the time of our visit, a year of very good rains saw raised groundwater levels. Our find was therefore unique because Pofadder was not a proper lake which explorers can use for diving expeditions.
As a parting thought: the most difficult part, in addition to making your way through the narrow passages, is to climb back up and get out of the cave again. Having no prior rope ascending experience, I could barely make it back to the surface. The acute stress of struggling to climb out of the cave again would count as my low point of this caving expedition. But I had no intention of being left behind with only muf-jantjie to keep me company, not to mention being welcomed back by assassin bugs and ghost pofadders.
The highpoint of this adventure made up for the discomfort –finding the crystal blue, unpolluted water underground. This enchanting image of unpolluted purity and beauty will remain with me for the rest of my life. TN Anyone interested
The land before time Desert Rhino Camp
Text Christine Hugo | Photographs Wilderness
Ahoneybee sits on the windscreen of the aeroplane. The pilot hesitates. It is time to depart, but she does not want to harm the bee. She waits another minute and starts the engine. The propeller spins, and we begin to move forward. The bee ups and goes…
Far below, the landscape moves like a silent movie, backwards through millennia.
The colour fades to sepia. Stubble becomes stretch marks.
Then: barren, dry plains, flat-topped mountains and sandstone cliffs. Petrified energy of spent volcanoes.
Harsh, brutal and breathtakingly beautiful.
We land on a strip of gravel and disembark. In utter disbelief and wonder, my three co-passengers from Mexico observe the strange, new, old world.
How is it possible to be here at the end of the world?
For this is quite literally where we are, having just flown over a tiny dot on the map called Wêreldsend – which means world’s end.
The natural history museum of time, the ancient, unapologetic earth that is Damaraland, the desert that is the last and only one where wild black rhino have adapted to. This is their home. Heaven knows how.
From the airstrip, the specialised Land Cruiser rolls over gravel and rock. I grew up travelling through different terrains in various vehicles, the first of which was an old white Land Rover with very uncomfortable 90-degree seats and a lot of charm.
Since then I’ve experienced every possible mode of transport over rocks and dunes, seas of sand and roaring rivers.
This game viewer is unlike anything I have seen before. Everything has been thought through meticulously –ergonomics, comfort, convenience, excellence – from the individual little fridges between solid, comfortable bucket seats – stocked with cold water, beer and cooldrinks – to the tiny binoculars and every possible hook, nook and cranny you might need for holding, hanging, or storing.
“How is it possible?” my new friend from Mexico asks. “How do people build anything here? How do they live here? It is so far from anything.”
After rounding the last bend to the lodge, our driver, Bons, pulls over by a large bush with slender grey-green stems –Euphorbia damarana, poisonous to humans but not to rhinos or gemsbok.
Should humans even be here? I’m not sure that was the plan…
And yet, we arrive at Desert Rhino Camp to the welcome serenade of a jubilant and smiling choir. A wet cloth for dusty hands, welcome drinks and an invitation to enter while other necessary reminders of our previous worlds, like luggage, are swiftly and quietly taken care of.
I learn quickly that the carefully curated airport taxi was just an introduction to how everything is done at Desert Rhino Camp. Mindful. Attentive. Detailed.
The newly renovated Desert Rhino Camp's interior design is understated elegance. It is a haven of organic shapes, textures, and natural hues that feed off the landscape.
Fire circles, cosy corners, and the curvy, elongated lounge and dining space serve as an auditorium from where to gaze at the landscape before you. For all the luxurious aesthetic of the lodge, the landscape demands centre stage, always luring your eyes up and away. As long as you are here, you will remain captive.
You will serve its magnitude and remain under its spell. So you might as well surrender.
It would have been enough, just this.
But then Bons takes us on a sunset excursion.
The gentle rocking of the game viewer. Wind in my hair.
Bons tells us the stories of this 130-million-year-old landscape. He speaks of basalt and oxidation, air pockets and veins that produced cobalt and crystal formations, of how this phantasmagorical place came to be.
I am spellbound. This man knows. He knows the land, the rocks, the history. He knows so much about every bird, antelope and ant. He points out shepherd trees and deciphers faintly visible spoor. But there is a special reverence in his voice when he speaks about them.
“This is it,” he says. “The last desert-adapted black rhinoceros in the world…”
Bons is not convinced that we grasp the enormity of this phenomenon: “They receive no help, no water pumped to waterholes, no food supplementation or interference whatsoever to make their lives easier. If you were to bring black rhino from elsewhere to live here, they would suffer. These rhinos are the only ones of their kind.”
We are converted. We sense the presence of the prehistoric beasts, although Bons says that the area is so big that it is like finding a needle in a haystack. The only reason there is any chance of encountering them is because of the relentless and diligent work of Save the Rhino Trust, who employ people from local communities and train them to track and guard these prime specimens from poachers.
The love story between Desert Rhino Camp and Save the Rhino Trust is a beautiful one. Desert Rhino Camp originated as a field station for rhino protection work and proceeded to join forces with the formidable NGO that is Save the Rhino Trust and engaged with three local communities to join the cause.
We nod.
Ingrid Noeh Tewes, Christine, Bons, and Ingrid's daughtersRegina and Sophia
After a complete rebuild, Desert Rhino Camp reopened to guests in July 2024.
Sofia Perez Noeh
Sofia Perez Noeh
Incorporating the local residents as partners in both the hospitality industry and the conservation operation completely changed the narrative and prospects of their communities. For the first time ever, the people here had opportunities to find employment, receive training and develop their potential. People who knew this land better than anyone in the world, who previously had to kill off predators to protect the desperate attempts at keeping livestock and were easy targets for cunning poachers with deep pockets who needed a hand on the ground, now had agency to protect the golden geese that brought them employment, economy and so much pride. And nobody was more equipped to do so than the inhabitants of this land.
My new foreign friends’ excitement at the sight of a couple of giraffes humbles me to the privilege of living in a country where wild, exotic animals are almost taken for granted. I look with new eyes and see, once again, the magnificence.
“A herd of giraffes is actually called a tower of giraffes,” Bons says.
No, we didn’t know that.
Bons whips out a classy sunset cocktail bar in the middle of nowhere. The sun drops like the curtain after a spectacular stage production. We toast to new friends and the wonder of the wilderness around us.
A chilly winter ride back to camp sends us to our rooms for hot showers and proper padding before dinner.
In the luxurious canvas-and-stone tented rooms, everything is, yet again, just so. Lush bedding, colours and textures, light fixtures and power sockets are all exactly where you need them to be, as effortlessly elegant as nature itself.
We meet up for dinner, warm water bottles for our laps. Our waiter, Water, is attentive and intuitive to our every move. My companions and I are at a loss for words yet again. How can a kitchen and a cook produce such exquisite, wonderfully prepared, beautifully presented dishes so far from civilisation?
Ingrid Noeh Tewes had brought her two young adult daughters to Africa in celebration of her sixtieth birthday. “We knew it would be wonderful, but we didn’t expect this. We could never have imagined this…”
To see the beautiful and worldly youngsters equally moved by what they have seen and experienced makes me wonder what exactly it is about this place that transcends age, nationality, culture and experience.
Perhaps this particular corner of the earth is one of the last outposts of pure existence. It resonates with the soul and affects you on a cellular level, an existential, carnal recognition.
It is not for everyone. It is not a zoo. Or a game park for instant gratification.
You work hard to see one of the last remaining desertadapted black rhinos. A whole day’s excursion with an expert guide and the devoted Save the Rhino Trust trackers might secure you a single, or if all the stars align, two or three sightings. It requires having lunch in a dry riverbed (tables, tablecloths, cold wine, gourmet picnic – not an inconvenience by any measure), driving for hours and hours over rough terrain, looking, waiting. It demands tremendous respect and obedience, once located, following the tracker in a single file, only as far as they know you can safely go without disturbing or provoking the rhinoceros.
Exhausted and euphoric, the visitors attempt to relay their impressions of the day back at camp. Sophia has taken thousands of photographs, but not enough. “I don’t want to leave,” she tells her mother.
Me neither.
Around the fire, where the chef is busy with another five-star barbeque on the grid, Bons tells us stories of growing up in Damaraland. How, as young boys, they would taunt the rhinos, the bravest earning himself the lion’s share of the other boys’ dinners.
Now, when he speaks about these last remaining free-roaming animals with a price on their heads and the very real and continuous threat of their disappearance, it is with reverence and passion. It is evident that he loves his job and he really, really loves his rhinos. “You do not know the difference that you make by being here, investing in our communities, how our lives have changed…”
After a lifetime of living here, he still cannot stop photographing animals, sunsets and trees. He shows us reels and reels on his phone with unwearied enthusiasm. He has seen it all and he keeps on seeing.
Ingrid gives up trying to hold back the tears as the staff sing to us, here under the stars, moving, clicking their special vernacular sounds, humming and dancing. Angelica with the angelic voice. Water with the ready smile and shining eyes, excited that he is learning to drive with the prospect of following in his uncle Bons’ footsteps to become a guide.
The spell of Damaraland and Desert Rhino Camp stayed with me for days after I returned. It changes me every time. Yet I think it changes you back to your selfest self.
Perhaps when the world was created, the dust that I will return to be was already there, waiting for me. Maybe we are all ancient. And I am Damaraland. TN
The spirit of the dragon and this thing called life.
Text Linda de Jager | Photographs Chris Steenkamp
While Namibia is best known for its wide-open spaces, the country is also a paradise for cavers who explore its darkest depths, especially the ones that some adventurers find irresistible. Even the wellknown Otjikoto Lake near Tsumeb is nothing but a large cave with a missing roof.
The unique and colourful fish species that occur in Otjikoto and its sister lake Guinas are well documented. Close inspection reveals the interesting dwarf bream, Pseudocrenolabrus philander dispersus, a fish that breeds outside the nest, while the female carries the eggs around in her mouth.
Lesser known are the unique life forms found in the cave system known as Dragon’s Breath, and the fact that one of its caverns houses the world’s largest underwater lake. Situated 46km northwest of Grootfontein lies a subterranean geological wonderland 60 metres below ground which can only be reached via a tiny ladder to reveal a rock formation that mysteriously hides a lake with a surface area of almost 2 hectares.
Dragon’s Breath was discovered in 1986 during a spelaeology expedition aimed at finding caves in the environs of the Otavi Mountains. The entomologist John Irish was part of the team, and it is with him that I visited the cave. We reached the first chamber by means of a small ladder. I knew from the outset that the purpose of the visit was not to try and climb down to the lake itself, as this is best left to specialised diving teams. The sole purpose of my visit was to experience personally why the cave had been given its dramatic name.
My first question was how the scientists had known from the outset where to search for a cave in this extensive landscape. John explained that the dolomite had been eroded by water over countless years and that these telltale signs usually indicated a cave or sinkhole lower down, as is the case with the Dragon’s Breath Cave.
Unlike most readers of this article – who are unlikely to ever make it as far down as the actual lake – John will invariably meet a couple of “old friends” there when he climbs down. He describes a unique life form found there as a small prawn, Trogloleleupia dracospiritus, which is endemic to this cave. Its Latin name dracospiritus means “the spirit of the dragon”. This small amphipod, like most of the other life forms there, survives on bat droppings that filter down to the bottom of the lake. Indeed, apart from the country’s astounding geology, this might be the real contribution of Namibia’s caves to the world of natural sciences. Moreover, there is still a host of life around there, much of which is yet to be recorded.
John accompanied me while I was climbing down from the first chamber and took a small step down from the passage. After turning slightly I continued and then stopped. At this point the visitor reaches a round rock in the middle of the passage, and encounters the “breath” flowing out on the other side, which can best be described as a small hole between two rocks that is already visible from the first chamber.
Indeed, apart from the country’s astounding geology, this might be the real contribution of Namibia’s caves to the world of natural sciences.
The so-called dragon’s breath is literally a warm, humid breeze that rises from the lake. It strikes you without warning as you peer over the round rock. The hole through which the humid air is forced is the lip of a precipice in the roof of the lake chamber. Basking in the uniqueness of the moment, it struck me once again how unbelievable it was that halfway between Tsumeb and Grootfontein this awesome body of water, which is tipped to be the largest subterranean lake in the world, can be viewed.
It was equally interesting when John pointed out that in 1986 the first-ever exploration team had included several female adventurers who, due to their smaller body frame, were required to wiggle their way through the access chamber down to the lake. With water security on the lips of so many people these days, time will tell how the water in this lake will increasingly come into focus, not only as a tourist attraction but also in terms of how the water can be conserved and at the same time used responsibly.
Journals in the Namibian Scientific Society archives indicate that in as early as 1970 a vision for the conservation of Namibia’s water resources was verbalised by the then Director of Water Affairs, MC Myburgh. He described water as an economic necessity, one that should be managed by Namibia’s
government as a precious resource. He emphasised that equal access to such water should be given to all people as opposed to any one individual owning it.
On a more esoteric note: my visit to the lake left me with a prevailing sense that this enchanting world should remain untouched. That it should be conserved as something with an intrinsic value that we can hold in the chambers of our hearts as an unuttered prayer, a marvel that is forever present but remains invisible. When interviewed, the controversial South African sangoma, Credo Mutwa, once referred to these spiritual spaces as places “where a greater mystery speaks to us from the shadows.”
The last words about the peaceful, undisturbed world beyond the lip of the cave go to John: “The lasting impression of Dragon’s Breath is one of a huge but largely lifeless lake, which, in a few barely hospitable corners, harbours an unlikely community of animals that is utterly dependent upon a very precarious food source against remarkable odds. Even the most jaded biologist will realise anew just how wonderfully tenacious this thing called Life really is.” TN
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Those who often venture across Namibia’s varied landscapes will agree that roadside stalls selling curios are predominantly run by women. From a distance you can see the colourful dresses of Herero women as they wave at passers-by. Himba women in their striking traditional attire employ the same income-generating strategy of selling crafts, and so do the Damara and Nama ladies with their bright smiles. Namibian women are the backbone of our artisanal crafts industry, and yet when it comes to locally run accommodation ventures, only seldom do you see a woman in the lead role.
Through its Biodiversity Economy Project, the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) set out to change this norm in Damaraland.
On a media field trip with a handful of the country’s journalists, in the midst of winter, the sky is a hazy, pastel blue. Knowing for certain the country’s largest mountain and highest peak should be visible by now, I peer out the window. Gradually, amidst the change of colours at sunrise, the silhouette of Brandberg begins to reveal itself. You would imagine a dot in the distance growing larger, but the outline of this mass, distinguished only by a slight change of colour, dominates the horizon and everything around it. “Where?” asks PJ, one of my companions, when I excitedly screech, “There it is!” I point to the intimidating landmark, and PJ squints with great effort, gazing to the foreground while falling silent. For a good hour of approaching, it was invisible, and now you cannot ignore the Brandberg’s presence, albeit subtle for the time being.
ELEPHANT ROCK CAMPSITE
Just a few kilometres from the mining town of Uis lies Elephant Rock Campsite, where we are welcomed by Monica Areses, dressed to the nines in a traditional Damara outfit. As we embrace, her fragrant perfume reminds me a little of my beloved grandmother. Her campsite’s reception and dining space looks out onto the western side of Brandberg, making it the favoured place for hikers to overnight before endeavouring to climb to its summit at Königstein.
With a glimmer in her eye, Monica retells the story of how Elephant Rock Campsite was a dream, years in the making. Many moons ago during the tourism season, Monica and her late husband would set out from their home at Henties Bay to sell soft drinks at the White Lady rock painting. A decommissioned oil drum was cut open and a thick blanket, soaked in water, placed inside to keep the drinks cold. Here, her entrepreneurial spirit manifested as ever more visitors
encouraged her and her husband to expand their offering, and consider a campsite catered to hikers and adventurers. Monica began discussions with the Tsiseb Conservancy in 2007, seeking to find the perfect spot for a tourism enterprise. After visiting a few sites, they landed at the base of a large granite outcrop in the shadow of Brandberg.
In 2016 the first campsite was ready for visitors. With only a few amenities at the time, Monica worked overtime to ensure her campers had everything they needed, including driving to Uis and back, sometimes multiple times, to collect water. Since then, she has set up neat and sturdy ablutions that run on limited water resources, while the eco-entrepreneur patiently awaits the drilling of a borehole, funded by GIZ.
On a sunset stroll around the granite koppie, Monica guides us to the pièce de résistance of the camp, a magnificently eroded rock in the shape of an elephant. Standing in the cavity that resembles the trunk of an elephant touching the ground, Monica smiles broadly and reminisces over the first time she laid eyes on this formation, knowing instantly that this would become the tourism establishment of her dreams.
In the constant company of the beguiling Brandberg Mountain, which is considered sacred ground in the surrounding communities, Monica built many of the structures at Elephant Rock Campsite with her own hands. “I have helpers, but they need my direction and input, so I laid many of those stones and cement myself,” says Monica, who has a clear vision of what she wants her camp to look like.
Campsite number one, which hosted our group, is situated on a gradual slope of the rocky hill. In its enclave is a spacious boma serving as the common area where campers can come together in the shade and prepare meals, with a crackling fire just beyond its rock wall. A solar geyser provides warm showers, and the grounds have ample space for campers to scatter their tents and enjoy some privacy.
Elephant Rock Campsite’s biggest drawcard is the fact that it is the only campsite west of Brandberg. Now, this might not seem of such significance, until the sun rises and casts a hazy purple hue on the mountain. The monolithic mass creates subtle contrasts in the morning light and paints the backdrop to a cup of coffee with a spark of splendour. Nowhere else is this picture so perfect, with the dawn accompanying our highest mountain in a single frame.
With hesitancy we must peel ourselves away from the hospitality of Monica and her team, and the incredible setting of Elephant Rock Campsite, as more female eco-entrepreneurs await our visit.
MÔREWAG CAMPSITE
About 50 km southwest of Khorixas a duo of donkeys lazing in the shade of a mopane tree welcomes us to Môrewag Campsite. Driving through an impressive arch at the entrance, we are greeted with a warm hug and bright smile by owner and head of operations Dina Namubes.
It is difficult to describe, yet somehow an instant sense of calm descends across the group as we sit down for lunch. Within minutes of being here, I feel right at home, and it is not just the meal of beetroot salad, baked garlic potatoes and peri-spiced chicken that conjures this feeling. There is something in the air here at Môrewag that whispers, “Relax, take it easy.”
From the reception and dining area, it requires a closer peek into the Damaraland sunshine to spot the campsites. Sprawled out over the Môrewag property and brilliantly camouflaged against granite koppies are five glamping sites and a further few regular campsites.
My sojourn for the evening boasts a rustic, outdoor ablution with both the shower and loo coddled by granite boulders. A spacious canvas tent is perched on a concrete platform, and inside, a queen-size bed in crisp, white linen beckons for the evening to come. Below, a built-in fireplace and pergola-covered food prep area sits pretty between more boulders. This is the kind of campsite I would spend a good amount of money on, and yet I am lucky enough to be their guest.
Just a stone’s throw from my abode sits one of Môrewag’s biggest drawcards – an ancient rock painting of a hunter being praised by his tribe for bringing home a kill. Dina saw this as a golden opportunity to set up a little bench and she insists that guests sit here with a glass of wine, marvel at the rock painting and ponder over the view of the cascading flat-top mountains in the distance. A short, guided walk or drive from the campsite leads to another rock painting, where a unique depiction of a two-metre-long snake sits on a slanted boulder face. There are undoubtedly many more of these ancient paintings to be discovered in the area, and the staff at Môrewag are eager to seek them out on nature walks with guests.
With the help of the GIZ Biodiversity Economy Project, Môrewag has an impressive infrastructure, including water tanks and solar power. Nearby sits a solar-powered borehole, which offers essential irrigation for the community garden that supplies Dina’s kitchen at Môrewag. It is clear that every step taken to develop this tourism establishment is done consciously and with the end goal of being a beacon of sustainability.
Around the campfire at dinner, the cool winter air is filled with chatter about the promising future of Môrewag Campsite. Dina raises a toast to the official opening of her dream establishment, acknowledging and visibly touched by GIZ’s support to help make it all happen. Once again, the heartfelt hospitality of entrepreneurial women, paired with spectacular settings, leaves me determined to return.
OTJOKAVARE HERERO LIVING MUSEUM
Driving along the western border of Etosha National Park, passing the veterinary control border, an inconspicuous tyre on the roadside indicates our turn-off to the Otjokavare Herero Living Museum. Considering this is my first time visiting a living museum, I am all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed at this new experience.
Welcomed by member and supervisor of Otjokavare, Mr Vetowojao Tjauira, a short stroll around some boulders and through mopane bushveld leads us to front-row seats of a small, staged village. A grey-haired Tate, the headman of this community, is seated in a camping chair at the entrance to greet us while one of his grandsons, undoubtedly his Tate’s shadow, shyly stands by his side.
The buff sand is juxtaposed by vibrant coloured dresses as clusters of Herero women, dressed in their iconic traditional attire, kneel and sit on the ground, performing multiple activities. Here, two ladies stone-grind millet to flour for porridge, while another attentively rocks a suspended calabash back and forth to produce butter. And there, with their cow-horn-inspired headdresses, two more Herero women plaster the floor of a new hut with a mixture of cow dung, grass and water.
Vetowojao guides our group through the various huts and activities, taking extra time at the village’s main structure. This hut’s entrance is in line with the holy fire, where the men of the village sit and tell fables. Inside, the matriarch (Meme) of the village sits grinding leaves and bark into a fragrant powdered perfume, sharing some with me. Dabbing a finger in the powder and rubbing it onto my wrist, the fragrance bursts with earthy, oud and sweet notes. The OvaHerero call it otjizumba, and it smells divine!
While Vetowojao translates, the Meme explains that this hut is the head of the village. All celebrations or ceremonies involve this structure: married couples would spend their wedding night (or week) here, babies are born here and elderly community members spend their final moments here. What a transient space, and what an honour to witness it, along with all the other aspects of Otjokavare.
Naturally, the time comes for a dance number, and the ladies take centre stage again, their layers upon layers of petticoats swaying with gravitas as they sing a sweet melody of call and response. While we may have been welcomed to Otjokavare by men, it is the women here who truly bring vibrance and inspiration to the living museum, another reminder that the GIZ Biodiversity Economy Project in this region seeks to champion female eco-entrepreneurs. By finding these women where they are, as well as facilitating and building capacity where there is already aspiration, Elephant Rock Campsite, Môrewag and Otjokavare is where GIZ hit bingo. TN
By finding these women where they are, as well as facilitating and building capacity where there is already aspiration, Elephant Rock Campsite, Môrewag and Otjokavare is where GIZ hit bingo.
Monica at Elephant Rock
Rock art at Môrewag
Otjokavare Herero Living Museum
Môrewag
Môrewag
Otjokavare
Otjokavare
Elephant Rock Campsite
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF GIANTS A mountain-biking adventure fueled by purpose
Text Elzanne McCulloch | Photographs Shawn van Eeden
Unzipping the door flap of my tent and stepping out into the morning air, I’m left a little confused. Yesterday I was in a barren red landscape surrounded by rocks and sandstone cliff faces – dramatic and otherworldly in its isolated, rugged splendour. Today, I’m surrounded by mist. I can’t see much further than the tents nearest to me as the thick fog covers the valley where we have set up camp. How easy it is to forget that we’re actually quite close to the coast and that for most of the year this thick fog bank is the main source of life for the area. Towards the south of our camp, completely shrouded in the blanket of moisture, lies the Aba-Huab River. Unbeknown to us, one of the mammals we’ve come to support in this dramatic region is slowly making its way down the dry ephemeral river, meandering across the soft sandy slopes and between salt bush and patches of salvadora or mopane. Here it roams undisturbed, well-adapted to its natural habitat which to most would seem completely inhospitable. We are unaware of its presence as we awaken to this misty morning. Later, once the fog has cleared and we’ve spent a few hours on a mountain bike traversing the rugged terrains, we will find his spoor left behind in the soft sand and know that he was near. Appreciating his presence and existence despite not having seen him in his horned magnificence with our own eyes, just knowing he survives here is enough. We’ll hopefully catch up with him later. For now, though, we are here to explore the beauty of Damaraland and the Aba-Huab Valley on a mountain bike. A group of twenty cyclists at the tenth iteration of this unique and special experience… riding for rhinos.
In the heart of Namibia’s northwestern Kunene Region, the 2024 RMB & Wilderness Ride for Rhinos event took a group of adventurers on a remarkable journey through the stunning landscapes of Damaraland. From 5-9 June, twenty enthusiastic mountain bikers, accompanied by an experienced crew, embarked on a four-day expedition through diverse terrains. This journey was not just an adventure, but a mission to raise funds and awareness for black rhino conservation and the communities that live and fight to protect this special species.
The landscape is vast and varied. As we gaze across the valley below, the Aba-Huab River, with its towering Ana trees, winds its way through rugged mountains along its southern banks. Further north, the terrain transitions to the red rocky hills so quintessential to Damaraland. In between lies a wide strip of soft sand. Namibia’s northwestern Damaraland, which stretches across the Kunene and Erongo regions, forms the home range of the desert-adapted black rhino, Diceros bicornis bicornis. After a shocking decline of 98% due to poaching between 1960 and 1995, the population stabilised towards the end of the nineties, followed by a resurgence in poaching in the years 2012 to 2017. Today, Namibia is home to the last free-roaming population of black rhino outside official protected areas, but the problem and threat of poaching persists.
Behind this conservation success story is the visionary approach of the government of Namibia to allow communities to become custodians of the endangered black rhino. This has been supported by an efficient, coordinated
response from both government and non-governmental organisations to help apply the technical demands of meeting this responsibility.
This year marked the tenth edition of the Ride for Rhinos, a tour that has grown significantly since its inception in 2015. Started by Venture Media and supported by title sponsors RMB Namibia and Wilderness, along with technical support from CYMOT, the event has consistently championed the cause of rhino conservation and community involvement in the plight to preserve this unique population of black rhinos. The tour’s primary goal is to support two crucial organisations that are actively involved in the fight against poaching, namely Save the Rhino Trust Namibia (SRT) and Children in the Wilderness, ensuring a future for both Namibia’s black rhino and the next generation of conservationists.
An intimate encounter with nature
The RMB & Wilderness Ride for Rhinos offers participants an unparalleled experience in nature. Guided by experienced mountain bike guide Johan Fourie, riders traverse challenging terrains, experiencing firsthand the beauty and harshness of Namibia’s landscape. Evenings are spent in a wild camp set up by the tour crew, where participants enjoy delicious meals and fireside conversations about Namibia, conservation and the plight of the black rhino.
The riders are joined by rangers from Save the Rhino Trust, who share their expertise on rhino conservation. These
rangers, who patrol the rugged terrain on foot for 21-day shifts, provide invaluable insights into the daily challenges of monitoring and protecting the black rhino. The experience highlights the contrast between the riders’ high-tech bicycles and the rangers’ relentless dedication on foot, underscoring the difficulty and importance of their work.
A legacy of conservation
The Ride for Rhinos was conceptualised by Venture Media, who sought to address the surge in rhino poaching by creating a platform that would engage Namibian companies and individuals in conservation efforts. Their vision was to blend adventure tourism with a meaningful cause, drawing on Namibia’s natural beauty and the growing popularity of mountain biking.
Partnering with Wilderness and CYMOT, the tour quickly gained traction, with enthusiastic support from sponsors like RMB. Over the years, the event has evolved into a significant conservation initiative, raising funds and awareness while providing participants with a transformative experience in nature.
Beyond the thrill of the ride, the event has a profound impact on rhino conservation and community development. Save the Rhino Trust’s efforts in monitoring and protecting Namibia’s black rhinos are bolstered by the funds and in-kind materials raised through the tour, as well as the links and connections made between the organisation and tour participants and their respective companies. Additionally, Children in the Wilderness empowers young Namibians to become future conservation leaders, fostering a deep connection to their natural heritage
and inspiring a passion for nature preservation at grassroots level. The aim is to ignite a spark in the hearts of children from the region, who will hopefully one day become future community leaders and protectors of this flagship species.
This year’s tour culminated in a celebration of its ten-year milestone, bringing together longtime tour supporters and partners such as Conrad Dempsey, head of FirstRand Namibia and one of the tour’s founders, Philip Chapman, head of RMB Namibia, Axel Theissen, group chairman of CYMOT, Alex Henderson, managing director of Wilderness Namibia, Alexandra Margull, group chief operating officer of Wilderness, Andrew Malherbe, chief operating officer of Save the Rhino Trust, and Agnes Tjirare, project lead of Children in the Wilderness. The final evening, spent fireside beneath the endless starry night sky at Wilderness’ Damaraland Camp, was a testament to the success and impact of the Ride for Rhinos It celebrated not only the tour’s decade-long journey but also the accomplishments of its beneficiaries. The gathering underscored the collaborative spirit and commitment of all partners involved, highlighting the tour’s role in fostering a community dedicated to conservation.
As the Ride for Rhinos celebrates its tenth anniversary, it stands as a testament to what can be achieved through collaboration and dedication. The participants, sponsors and organisers have all played a part in this incredible journey, riding not just for the spirit of adventure, but for the preservation of Namibia’s natural treasures and the future of its wildlife. TN
Desert Reverie
Text & Photographs Kirsty Watermeyer
This is a magical land – the colours, the softness of the dunes and the almost ethereal backdrop that appears to be painted on the horizon for dramatic effect. It is exquisite, and it seems unreal. There is so much to marvel at that one’s worries seem to melt away in the sunlight. What once seemed insurmountable now seems petty, and you find yourself zoning out at the sight of space and beauty all around.
And then there is Kwessi Dunes Lodge, which is like stepping into a bygone safari era where your every whim is catered for, even the ones you did not know you had. Some lodges boast their special features for all to see, but this one blends into the horizon and keeps its treasures hidden, for you to find. It is beautiful, and in every corner awaits another gem to uncover. The well-appointed rooms are spacious, offering different comfortable seating options. The patio area alone has a choice between a bench piled with pillows for comfortable lounging, or rocking chairs for daydreaming as you sway your worries away.
Worthy of its own chapter in acclaim is the outside bed for sleeping under the constellations and watching the celestial theatre show above. Having done this many times and in many ways, sleeping under the stars in the desert is one of my favourite things to do. What can often take away from the experience is your exposure to the elements as the desert winds of the evening increase in strength. But here your outside bed has its own four-walled room, which not only protects you from the elements but also directs your focus towards the premier spectacle, which at night, is up.
Another highlight was how much my visit to Kwessi taught me about the subtleties of the desert. On a desert walk with an
Khoisan tracker, Frankie, we learnt more about desert life than we could ever imagine. We followed tracks, listened to traditional Khoisan stories, and became amateur desert boffins through this enlightening experience.
This was a family trip, meaning my two-year-old son had come along and he was welcomed as part of the family by the staff. Let alone my enjoyment; this could easily be called my son’s best holiday ever. He spent his days racing along dune belts, following beetles, marvelling at desert life and having a feast. In fact, I would be remiss if I did not mention the food. It was spectacular, and besides the tasty three courses that the adults enjoyed, every effort was made to cater to the weird and wonderful palate of a toddler. This meant that one night he dined on French fries paired with spaghetti bolognese while the rest of us savoured the tenderest gemsbok fillets.
Another example of the extra effort by the staff was when we enjoyed one of the many activities at Kwessi. While doing a sunset drive with the delightful Dawid, we found a sundowner table specially decorated for my son, with his name written in sand along with some toys and his favourite drink – apple juice.
This sundowner drive with Dawid also heralds what has become one of my most special desert experiences to date. As we came over a dune in the late afternoon, we encountered a den of bat-eared foxes, fast asleep in a fairy circle. They were surprised by our presence, but they did not run away. After a
expert
short inspection, they concluded that we were friendly and proceeded to playfully chase each other before flopping back down into curled-up little balls in the sandy sphere.
If you did not know, bat-eared foxes are small, primarily nocturnal foxes with comically big ears that help them regulate their body temperature and hear sounds at incredible distances. These insect-loving foxes can hear beetle larvae hatching from dung balls. Also, they are monogamous, and the dads are as involved as the moms in raising the family. There is a lot to love about the bat-eared fox.
Like with the bat-eared fox, it is easy to fall in love with Kwessi Dunes Lodge. Located in the NamibRand Nature Reserve, this beautiful corner of Namibia is a vast desert wilderness of almost 200,000 hectares defined by red dunes, fairy circles and surrounding rocky mountains. You will want to take plenty of photographs, it is simply so beautiful, but no photograph does this place justice. Nothing will prepare you for the radiance you see here. In fact, the landscape will stop you in your tracks. Of course it is quintessential Namibia, but it is also humbling, stirring and striking.
Visiting the NamibRand Nature Reserve is like stepping into a daydream or fantasy land. Here you can expect to be lost in reverie. Where you will not be lost, however, is at Kwessi Dunes Lodge, who will outdo themselves to accommodate you. From the arrangements made to replace our burst tyre to the farewell gift handed to my son by Lilian, the lodge manager, it seems their purpose is to help you ground yourself in these illusionary surroundings. TN
Kwessi Dunes Lodge is managed by Natural Selection, who offer remarkable experiences in wild, untouched places. To book your stay at Kwessi Dunes Lodge, send an email to: reservations@naturalselection.travel
Here you can expect to be lost in reverie.
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Text Mburaje Keja & Stéphanie Périquet-Pearce
Photographs Stéphanie Périquet-Pearce
EXPLORE NAMIBIA’S WILD HEART: ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
Etosha National Park is a unique gem in Africa, distinguished by its 4,730 km² salt pan, so immense that it is visible from space. Despite its dry landscape, the park boasts abundant wildlife that gathers around its waterholes, which all but guarantees game sightings for visitors. Additionally, Etosha stands out as one of the most accessible wildlife viewing locations in Namibia and southern Africa, making it a prime destination for wildlife enthusiasts. Etosha hosts an almost complete guild of large carnivores, which are keystone species that can influence the entire food web and are highly valuable for tourism.
Effective wildlife conservation and management usually starts with knowing the population sizes of the species of interest. Approximately 6,600 cheetahs (Acinonyx jubatus) remain globally, highlighting this iconic species’ critical conservation status. In contrast, population estimates for leopards (Panthera pardus) have very wide confidence intervals, leading to considerable uncertainty around their actual numbers. In Etosha, the population estimates for cheetahs and leopards remain a mystery, as comprehensive studies have yet to be conducted on these two species. This gap underscores the urgent need for targeted research and conservation efforts to ensure the survival of these majestic predators in their natural habitats.
JOIN THE ADVENTURE: ETOSHA’S ONGOING CITIZEN SCIENCE SURVEY
Reliable carnivore population estimates and what affects these numbers are still unknown in Namibia’s flagship Etosha National Park. However, this information is crucial for effectively managing and conserving these keystone species, ensuring their continued presence in this vital ecosystem. This recognition led the members of the Greater Etosha Carnivore
Programme – a collaboration between Ongava Research Centre, the Etosha Ecological Institute and other national and international collaborators – to address this knowledge gap and conduct large-scale surveys in the park in 2024.
Carnivores are notoriously difficult to count due to their wide-ranging behaviours, nocturnal habits, elusive nature and low densities. Fortunately, methods to monitor population sizes have become relatively well developed. For instance, playback surveys are used to estimate the numbers of social and vocal species such as spotted hyenas (Crocuta crocuta) and lions (Panthera leo). Camera traps are ideal for species with unique coat patterns, enabling individual identification based on photographic evidence. However, due to the differing behaviours of leopards and cheetahs, two separate sampling designs of camera traps deployment would be necessary for reliable population size estimates of these two species. Consequently, a citizen science survey is the most practical approach, allowing for the collection of images for individual identification of both species over a long period and across the whole park, yielding useful population estimates.
A citizen science survey was therefore launched on 1 June 2024 and will continue until the end of May 2025. This survey is led by Ongava Research Centre’s 24-year-old master’s student, Mburaje Keja, in collaboration with Namibia University of Science and Technology. Mburaje aims to apply individual identification techniques to the photographs shared by Etosha’s visitors to produce the first population size estimates for these two species. This groundbreaking initiative seeks to fill a critical knowledge gap and enhance conservation efforts for cheetahs and leopards in the region.
At key locations in the park, posters and flyers containing all the essential information encourage visitors to share their sightings by filing an online form, providing details such as the date and location of sightings, number of individuals in a group and email address (no spamming, promise!). They will then receive an email from Mburaje inviting them to share their photographs. These images will be processed using a specialised artificial intelligence (AI) platform called the African Carnivore Wildbook.
This initiative empowers citizen scientists to participate actively in conservation efforts and to enhance the collective understanding and protection of wildlife in the park.
FROM PICTURES TO INDIVIDUALS AND POPULATION SIZE
Dr Stéphanie Périquet-Pearce and Prof. Morgan Hauptfleisch will supervise Mburaje’s project, which is supported by the Ongava Research Centre, the University of Georgia in the USA and the Namibian Chamber of Environment.
Once photographs and the required information have been received, Mburaje will upload them to the African Carnivore Wildbook, a pivotal tool for individual identification of carnivores. This online platform is a groundbreaking conservation tool, harnessing AI’s power to identify similar patterns on animal coats and return a list of potential matches.
For instance, consider the leopard image below: the picture on the right displays the unknown animal, while the image on the left shows one of the AI platform’s suggested matches. The areas of similar coat patterns are highlighted as a heat map, helping in the decision-making process to confirm whether it is the same individual. If none of the suggested animals matches, the platform allows the user to create a new individual. What used to take hours of staring at a series of images and trying to find a match now takes only a few minutes. This streamlined process dramatically improves the efficiency and accuracy of individual identification.
Do not wait any longer to plan your trip to Etosha – set out on the search for spotted cats! Join our effort to learn more about cheetahs and leopards and share your photographs from Etosha using the QR code.
Once individuals are identified on the images, we can build capture histories for each individual that summarise where and when it was recorded during the survey. From there, the data will be analysed in a capture-recapture statistical framework, which will generate population estimates and their confidence intervals. This project will also establish a comprehensive database of individuals from the two species, which will provide a baseline for future surveys and conservation efforts.
WHAT IS IN IT FOR YOU?
First of all, by sharing their images with us, citizen scientists help us in our mission to study and protect these enigmatic keystone species. On top of that, they stand a chance to win a two-night stay for two at Anderssons at Ongava on the Ongava Game Reserve, located on the southern boundary of Etosha National Park. The winner will enjoy Anderssons at Ongava’s complete luxury offering, including unparalleled game-viewing opportunities, whether from an underground hide, the pool or the comfort of their accommodation.
And for the icing on the cake, this also happens to be where the Ongava Research Centre is located. Hence, the winner will be invited to meet the researchers conducting this survey firsthand, as well as the rest of our team, and learn more about our mission and projects.
The winner will be randomly drawn from the participants who submitted identifiable images. Each submission will count as one entry, meaning the more observations you submit, the higher your chance of winning. The winner will be announced on 1 March 2026. TN
IMAGE COPYRIGHT AND INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY DISCLAIMER: By submitting your images to this survey, you allow Ongava Research Centre to use them solely to identify individual cheetahs and leopards and give them the intellectual property of the data extracted from these images. Submitted images will not be used for any commercial purpose. The copyright and property of images remain entirely with the person submitting them. If the Ongava Research Centre (or collaborators) wishes to use the images to display to the public for research/illustration purposes, the person who submitted the image will be contacted, permission will be asked, and owner copyright will be clearly displayed on the image.
RUNNING
Text Kirsty Watermeyer
In the canvas of Namibia's rugged landscapes, where nature paints with bold strokes, running transcends mere physical activity to become an odyssey of exploration, solitude, and exhilaration. As adventure travel burgeons, demanding immersive experiences, Namibia stands as an unparalleled playground for those seeking to connect with nature on a profound level. It goes beyond conventional sightseeing and allows individuals to connect with nature on a deeper level, fostering a sense of appreciation and respect for the environment. One of the purest forms of adventure travel is found in the trails that dot the varying terrain of Namibia. Here you will find that the allure lies in the opportunity to explore unknown territories.
WILD
Trail running is about space. It's about the challenge. It's about being somewhere where people cannot get by car. It is all about your mind, your breathing and your escape.
Discovering the beauty of Namibia on foot with Kirsty Brits
Namibian adventure runner Kirsty Brits enthusiastically praises the untamed beauty of Namibia's trails, a sentiment echoed by many who have ventured into its wilderness. "I love running in the desert,” Kirsty enthuses, her eyes alight with the memories of stark open plains and the magic of sunrise over shifting dunes. "The need to carry your own water, the absence of people and cars. Every hue of colour that your mind can imagine – it’s magic.”
Namibia beckons with a plethora of trail running choices, from winding paths around dolomite outcrops to challenging ascents up desert dunes. Kirsty's passion for the mountains is palpable as she describes the fast and exhilarating single tracks that crisscross the country. Each run offers a sensory experience – the crunch of the ground underfoot, the symphony of wildlife and the caress of desert winds on your face.
Kirsty's passion for running transcends mere speed: it is about embracing the challenge of distance. Her journey as a runner commenced eleven years ago, leading her to conquer numerous marathons, including the legendary Comrades Marathon. With nine Comrades marathons already under her belt, Kirsty now sets her sights on surpassing the coveted mark of ten completed Comrades. Remarkably, she is also a two times ladies champion in the Backyard Ultra marathons hosted in Uis,
where runners finish continuous loops until only one remains.
Kirsty recounts how her running has exposed her to adventures most can only dream of. “I have had so many amazing opportunities to run in places that many people would never think of. We have run where you can hear lions roaring, found fresh leopard tracks and came across a fresh leopard kill in the Ais Ais Hot Springs Game Park. The best part about running is that you can do it just about everywhere – all you need is shoes.”
In 2020, amidst the upheaval of the pandemic, Kirsty embarked on one of her most adventurous runs yet: seven marathons in seven days across Namibia's pristine terrains. “I had the biggest adventure on our third marathon at Klein Aus Vista when we took a "little detour", which got us 60 km off course,
Each run offers a sensory experience – the crunch of the ground underfoot, the symphony of wildlife and the caress of desert winds on your face.
without water. Luckily we were found and our adventure continued. Undeterred, Kirsty and her companions pressed on, awe-struck by the untouched beauty surrounding them.
Kirsty points to the changing landscape of tourism, with a shift towards adventure-based travel, especially among families seeking active experiences. “Most lodges have marked trails. I have seen the type of traveller change: people do not want to lie at a pool anymore, they want adventures. When you spend so much of your holidays driving long distances and perhaps overeating, heading out on the trails can shake things up and give you a special perspective of our incredible country.”
Namibia, with its vast expanses and diverse terrains, offers a trail runner playground unlike any other. Whether
GETTING YOU STARTED – TIPS FROM A SEASONED RUNNER:
Running is one of the most amazing ways to experience our country. We have unlimited space, opportunity, and most places will welcome you running in their area.
• Pack your shoes and make sure you have water and snacks.
• Link up with a local running club. You will find one in most towns. They are generally incredibly helpful and friendly.
• Try a race. There are many options available across different landscapes at varying levels of skills. Find them on social media or running apps.
• Look for trails on the various apps available.
• On the trail, take the time to appreciate the space and quiet.
• Always be ready for that once-in-a-lifetime photo!
traversing desert plains or scaling rugged mountains, every run is a communion with nature. "In Namibia we have amazing safety and are still able to run almost everywhere. Obviously, one must be cautious in bigger cities, but when we explore slightly off the grid, with a pack full of water, the only limit is yourself,” Kirsty believes.
The burgeoning trail-running community reflects Namibia's growing reputation as a haven for adventure seekers. With trails crisscrossing the country's lodges and wilderness areas, the possibilities for exploration are endless. As Kirsty says, “it is an incredible way to truly experience the surroundings.”
To those considering trail running in Namibia, Kirsty is eager to share her passion. She is offering an invitation to embrace the freedom of the open trails. “Trail running is about space. It's about the challenge. It's about being somewhere where people cannot get by car. It is all about your mind, your breathing and your escape. With stress and pressure in our daily lives, it is a means to break away and forget everything!”
In the heart of Namibia's wilderness, where every run is a communion with nature, and every step is a testament to the beauty of our planet's wild places, the spirit of adventure awaits.
Lace up your shoes, heed the call of the wild – and remember to pack water.
Kirsty Brits
Kirsty Brits
From the rugged terrains of mountain trails to the expansive stretches of desert landscapes, ultramarathons offer a unique blend of physical challenge, mental fortitude and unparalleled camaraderie. Nowhere is this more evident than in Namibia, a land of stark beauty and untamed wilderness that has firmly established itself as a premier destination for ultramarathon enthusiasts. As the appeal of wild running continues to captivate adventurers around the globe, Namibia stands as a beacon of opportunity, offering a myriad of elite races that push participants to their limits and beyond.
Exploring Namibia's ultramarathons with Hannes
FSmit
rom the rugged terrains of mountain trails to the expansive stretches of desert landscapes, ultramarathons offer a unique blend of physical challenge, mental fortitude and unparalleled camaraderie. Nowhere is this more evident than in Namibia, a land of stark beauty and untamed wilderness that has firmly established itself as a premier destination for ultramarathon enthusiasts. As the allure of wild running continues to captivate adventurers around the globe, Namibia stands as a beacon of opportunity, offering a myriad of elite races that push participants to their limits and beyond.
Namibia plays host to a variety of prestigious ultramarathon events, each presenting its own set of challenges and rewards. The RacingThePlanet Four Deserts series, for instance, takes participants on a journey through some of the world's most extreme environments, including the Namib Desert in Namibia, the Gobi March in Mongolia, the Atacama Crossing in Chile and the Last Desert in Antarctica. Recently, the conclusion of the Namib Race 2024 tested participants against the breathtaking yet punishing Namibian landscape. The 2021 champion, Robert Ripley, described it as the most beautiful and unforgiving in the world.
BeyondtheUltimate presents a Global Race Series, featuring extreme events like the Desert Ultra, Ice Ultra, Jungle Ultra and Mountain Ultra, each designed to push runners to their limits across diverse terrains. The Desert Ultra takes place in the Namib Desert in November, starting at Spitzkoppe mountain and racing over five days across the world’s most ancient desert.
The Track Series is a unique ultramarathon series of over 520 kilometres in a 10-day race. The Track Namibia concluded the 2024 series, taking runners through Namibia's scenic marvels, from the Swakop River to the Sossusvlei dunes in Namib-Naukluft National Park.
Hannes Smit is a seasoned Namibian trail runner who has competed in all these races at some stage or another. He says that wild running in Namibia, offering an unparalleled experience perfectly suited for adventurous souls, has seen a remarkable surge in popularity. Having seen so much of Namibia on foot himself, Hannes enthusiastically talks about his incredible experiences. His infectious love for trail running shines through his stories of the connection one finds in this sport – connection to yourself, to nature and to your fellow runners.
Hannes delights with his tales of the wild running in the Desert Ultra, a thrilling route around the Brandberg from Spitzkoppe, which provides a unique perspective of the majestic mountain. Or about how the Four Deserts race was once run in the Skeleton Coast but was moved further south due to desert lions being inquisitive about the runners in their territory.
His recent completion of The Track Namibia race is a feat. It is one marathon each day where you carry your own food and equipment, with stringent cut-off times and culminating in a final full day and night run. “For the first three days of this year’s race we had east wind blowing. The warm wind meant you never cooled down and many people dropped out
because of the heat. It is hard to run a full day, but this is what the ultras do, they take you out of your normal day-to-day life. You begin each new day with a new race, and even though you are tired and you have to manage your water and beat the cut-off time, somehow as a whole it makes you a free person and reminds you of your place in the world,” Hannes says, describing the profound sense of liberation participants feel as they shed the trappings of modern life and forge an intimate connection with nature and self. “No money can buy the freedom that comes with this kind of experience. You connect with who you are meant to be. You find your place in the world again.”
Another attraction are the sights and sounds. Recounting some wild encounters, Hannes smiles as he talks about seeing three giraffes in the desert. “When I did The Track Namibia series, I ran so close to them, that it was a goosebumps moment. When running the Desert Ultra , I saw rhinos, which was amazing.” Hannes notes that another highlight is seeing the ever-changing fauna as you run. “You’ll be surprised about the plants you see in the desert, especially when you come to a higher point where the moisture is different.”
If you are intrigued and want to experience these kinds of adventures, this seasoned Namibian trail runner’s advice is to start slow. He emphasises that there is no shame in starting with walking as you build up physical capability and connect with the community. As one delves deeper into the realm of ultrarunning, the allure of exploring new vistas and conquering towering peaks becomes an irresistible call to embrace the boundless spirit of adventure.
Whether you are an experienced runner seeking new challenges or a novice looking to embark on your first ultramarathon journey, Namibia beckons with its rugged beauty and untamed wilderness. TN
We can’t take credit for the views... They were here before we got here.
Castle since 1914. Hotel since 1994.
Celebrating yields in rice and poultry production in the Omusati Region
In the Omusati Region, where concerns over food security are mounting due to the impending drought, rice cultivation is expanding. The University of Namibia’s Ogongo Campus, strategically located in the Cuvelai-Etosha Basin of northcentral Namibia, plays a pivotal role in this development. Specialising in agriculture, natural resource management and environmental science, Ogongo has become a hub for advancing expertise in these critical areas.
Last year, Debmarine Namibia sponsored agricultural equipment for the Ogongo Campus, aiming to bolster rice production, enhance poultry development projects and support research, training, and community chicken production activities. This investment has proven fruitful, with the campus achieving a significant milestone of harvesting 17 tonnes of rice from seven hectares – an impressive increase from its previous yield on three hectares. Plans are now underway to further expand the rice production to 10 hectares.
The success of Debmarine Namibia’s sponsorship was recently celebrated at the Annual Rice Harvest Festival, themed “Enhancing Household Food Security through Rice and Poultry Farming.” The festival recognised several poultry and rice farmers for their dedication and hard work. Debmarine Namibia CEO Willy Mertens, in attendance at the festival, expressed gratitude to the University of Namibia (UNAM) for equipping farmers with valuable knowledge, which has been showcased through their impressive agricultural projects.
“I am thrilled to see farmers taking proactive steps to enhance our country’s food security. I encourage our farmers to utilise the training provided by our students and trainers to improve their production,” remarked Mertens. He highlighted the critical role of initiatives like wetland rice in boosting food security by harnessing rainwater.
Mertens commended the Japanese government and the Japanese International Cooperation Agency (JICA) for initiating the rice cultivation programme at UNAM’s Ogongo Campus.
“Our decision to support the expansion of rice cultivation at UNAM’s Ogongo Campus builds upon the solid foundation laid by JICA,” he added.
UNAM’s vice-chancellor, Prof. Kenneth Matengu, echoed these sentiments, noting that since JICA’s involvement in 2012, the campus has been instrumental in training local farmers in rice cultivation and providing ongoing support in rice processing, significantly advancing agricultural development in the region. He thanked Debmarine Namibia for their invaluable support, which enabled the campus to procure essential poultry equipment, thereby increasing the poultry hatchery capacity from 370 to an impressive 4,000 chicks annually.
Debmarine Namibia’s support, valued at N$750,000, included crucial equipment such as an incubator for fertilised eggs, chicken cages, chick crates, a pelleting machine, heat lamps, a beverage cooler, a water pump, irrigation pipes for rice paddies and rice seedling trays, among others. TN
Forging a natural
Kirsty Watermeyer explores the wonders and magnitude of the Fish River Canyon and the surprising research and conservation initiatives blooming in this soulful, dramatic place.
masterpiece
There is a symphony that was written between water and rock millions of years ago. Carved into the depths of this land, canyons provide a look into the geological epic that unfolded, a view of the history of Earth and a mesmerising tapestry that showcases the enduring journey this landscape embarked on through the ages. Easily one of Africa’s most impressive geological formations is the Fish River Canyon. It is my first time visiting the canyon, and I am doing so in style, staying at the striking Fish River Lodge that boasts rooms on the western brim of the canyon, far away from the crowds that flock to Namibia’s second-largest tourist attraction.
As we arrive, I am taken aback by how much this land looks like the far northwest of Namibia – plateaued mountains, a plethora of rocks as far as the eye can see and euphorbia plants dotting the landscape. I have a deep love for the northwest of Namibia, and I feel I am about to fall for this corner of the country too. It is barren but soulful, changing but the same.
Can a pile of rocks be so alive? Their changing colours, metamorphosed through a kaleidoscope of shades as the sun rises and falls through the sky, would suggest so. Looking at these rocks up close, you will see what seem to be brush strokes of colour and the use of the full palette.
Then there is the canyon, with its sheer size and the play of light and shadow on its rocks creating a visual spectacle. As sunlight dances upon the canyon walls, layer upon layer is revealed, telling the story of a persistent passage of time. Here you get to look at records of ancient life on Earth. According to our guide and geological expert, Wilhelm, the Fish River Canyon originated millions of years ago in a shallow sea. He explains that the sea dried around 550 million years ago and that a tectonic event activated faults which started the forming of a rift valley. Then the breakup of the supercontinent of Gondwana, which saw South America and Africa drift apart about 120 million years ago, cut water into the metamorphic rocks below, and the rest, quite literally, is history.
Staying at the Fish River Lodge, on the virtual edge of the canyon (the only lodge to boast this unique experience), one can marvel at the passing display all day long. What is more, you can do so from the convenience of your plush bed, or one of the sun loungers on the wrap-around deck. The decor is eclectic, but underscored by natural items such as stone tables, weaved baskets and ostrich egg chandeliers.
The Fish River Canyon’s busy season is winter, meaning most visitors are here when it is cold, but this does not matter when the helpful staff bring snug hot-water bottles to your
UNDERSTANDING AND PROTECTING WILDLIFE
AT FISH RIVER LODGE
Carnivores traverse large landscapes and play a crucial role in ecosystems. They help maintain balance by regulating prey populations and influencing plant growth, among other effects. At Fish River Lodge, a research project is underway to better understand the wildlife in the area. Len le Roux, one of the co-owners of Fish River Lodge, explains that to rehabilitate the land for conservation, they first need to understand the existing wildlife populations.
To achieve this, they have embarked on a research project using a camera trap survey, which is an effective, non-invasive tool that enables long-term observation of wildlife. According to Len, the cameras have shown them that mountain zebras, leopards, African wild cats, honey badgers, porcupines, brown and spotted hyenas, cheetahs and many more have made this corner of the world their home. He shares that it was surprising to find brown hyenas traversing this terrain, especially as they are found more on the plateau than in the canyon. They have found this to be true of the leopard population as well.
The primary focus of the research is on the area’s carnivores, specifically leopards, cheetahs, and brown hyenas. However, data is captured on all wildlife encountered to create a comprehensive picture of the landscape. The carnivores share similarities such as their expansive rangelands, their somewhat solitary or semi-solitary behaviour and the limited knowledge about them.
Len talks about the healthy population of leopards and their intention to gain a deeper understanding of leopards and brown hyenas. He also expresses his surprise at discovering cheetahs in the area. He is enthusiastic about the fact that their neighbours share a conservation mindset, which has enabled the removal of fences. However, he highlights another key value of the research being done, which is the hope that their data will contribute to mitigating conflict between farmers and carnivores.
One of the researchers gathering the data is Alberto Tarroni, a student at the University of Bologna who has been based at the Fish River Canyon. He is doing an internship through
Wildlife Initiative, an international research organisation that was initially established in Mongolia to research snow leopards and Pallas cats. Today the Wildlife Initiative is one of the largest researchers in the world and has established a Namibian division, called Nakupenda Wildlife. Under this Namibian division, research is currently being conducted here in the Fish River Canyon and the Khoadi Hoas Conservancy.
Alberto explains that his research involves collecting data about the carnivores in the canyon using 71 camera traps. Discussing the intriguing findings from their research, he notes that their first sampling revealed just two leopards over a month. However, during the second sampling, they observed a significant increase in wildlife, including leopards, cheetahs and brown hyenas. This shift highlighted the extensive movements and broad rangeland of these animals. A key takeaway for Alberto is the realisation that many more animals inhabit and traverse the canyon area than initially anticipated.
While the data collected will be used to better understand wildlife and their movements in and around the canyon, Alberto’s personal analysis and university project will be to develop an artificial intelligence program that recognises single species from photos and thereby makes it easier for the next researchers based on any project. He hopes to complete this task by early 2025.
Speaking to Alberto, I get the immediate sense that he, like many visitors before him, has fallen in love with this land. He describes his experience at the canyon as a dream come true. “Being here, driving the Land Rover through the bush in search of big mammals, has been truly amazing,” he says. He further marvels at the canyon’s grandeur: “It’s enormous and spectacular, constantly changing every 100 metres. The canyon is full of secrets waiting to be uncovered, from ancient human ruins to fascinating geological patterns that reveal the history of different eras.”
Reflecting on his highlight of being here, he says, “The sense of freedom is unparalleled and unlike anything you find in Europe. The silence is stunning, and the sky is breathtaking.”
bed for a blissful night’s rest. Evenings are spent around cosy indoor fireplaces where visitors congregate and become friends drawn to one another by their shared interests in geology, luxury, beauty, or adventure. Take your pick, you are visiting this slice of heaven for one or more of the above.
If it is adventure you are after, Fish River Lodge offers a luxurious version of canyon hiking where all you have to focus on are the steps you take. Accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, you descend into the canyon each morning, marvelling at the surroundings while carrying only your water with you. In the evening you ascend the canyon to return to the comfort of a warm bed, your luggage and an incredible three-course meal – a real reward after a day of traverse trekking.
While there, I sat down with co-owners Len and Karen le Roux, who have recently retired but still live on the property –a retirement location that would make most people green with envy. Len explains that they are about to add cycling to their activities on offer. This means that, much like the luxurious hiking which you can do through the lodge, you can now tour the canyon on an e-bike, cycling during the day and enjoying a tasty meal and comfortable bed afterwards.
Len boasts that Karen was the brain behind the beautification of the lodge. She worked closely with the architect to perfect every corner. Len also imparts information about the research being conducted here, which is fascinating because it has
hardly been done until now, and what is being revealed is providing new insights into the area.
“We have 54,000 hectares of land here,” explains Len. “It will soon be designated as the Fish River Canyon National Park.” He goes on to say that, in collaboration with two neighbouring properties, they have removed all the fences, opened up the land and established a corridor connecting two sections of the park. “Our main goal is to rehabilitate the land for conservation,” he adds. “We’re working to restore it after its previous use for farming and to reintroduce wildlife. But first we need to understand the current wildlife population in the area.”
The combination of natural beauty, tranquillity, conservation efforts and adventure at Fish River Lodge is captivating. The haunting echoes of the carved canyons and the geological masterpiece create an awe-inspiring backdrop. The luxurious retreat along the canyon wall provides the perfect setting. The staff is friendly and the food exceptional. The stunning views and overall allure of this unique place make it impossible not to be enchanted by this extraordinary edge of eternity. TN
Fish River Lodge is managed by Journeys Namibia who manage an exclusive portfolio of extraordinary destinations. To book your stay at Fish River Lodge send an email to res2@journeysnamibia.com
Ondili provides premium lodges and tented camps in Namibia’s stunning regions, along with boutique guesthouses in Windhoek and Swakopmund. Explore our private nature reserves and adjacent national parks for awe-inspiring vistas and remarkable wildlife encounters.
Text Elzanne McCulloch | Photographs Le Roux van Schalkwyk & Elzanne McCulloch
As I settle into the plush comforts of our suite at Little Ongava, my eyes explore all the little luxuries on offer in this mountain-top villa with its never-ending views stretching out towards the southern horizon. My seat swivels around, allowing me to take in both the exterior and interior views. My husband’s attention is fixed on the iPad that came with the suite, tuned in to the live stream of the waterhole at the foot of the mountain. He will spend the next few days with the device in hand, poised for those rare moments where we are not offered a direct view of the reserve’s prolific wildlife or out on a drive. Absolutely absorbed by the wild wonders on offer. On the expansive canopy bed, a delicate piece of paper catches my eye. Left for us during turn-down service, it carries a San fable, a bedtime story that tells the tale of how, according to ancient Bushman lore, Flame and Rain created the earth. This touch of local folklore is the first hint that my stay here will be an adventure woven with luxury and the wild spirit of Namibia, but with a very personal touch that supersedes most other experiences.
The crown jewel of Ongava Game Reserve, Little Ongava is perched atop an outcrop, offering a breathtaking panorama of the vast plains, bushland and mountains that comprise the 30,000-hectare reserve. To the north, Etosha National Park shares a substantial stretch of border with Ongava, creating a seamless expanse of protected wilderness. This private sanctuary is not just a destination; it is a journey into the heart of nature’s grandeur, meticulously preserved through Ongava’s commitment to conservation. “Nature first” is their mantra, and it is certainly woven into the fabric of their being.
“Good morning, good morning!”
“Have a lovely morning, all!”
The reserve’s guides greet the day and each other with cheerful messages over the game viewer radios, their warmth and personality cutting through the early morning chill. The crisp air invigorates my senses. Despite my usual reluctance to embrace the morning (read: not a morning person), I find myself energised and eager to explore as the haze of dawn gives way to the warm hue of the red sun ascending from the east. This is where the adventure truly begins – each morning a new promise of the unexpected.
As the sun rises, the landscape comes alive. Wings and feathers rustle in treetops and bushes. Long giraffe necks are stretched out and herds of impala start to explore the mopane bushland in search of breakfast nibbles. The Catophractes shrubs shimmer in the morning light, dusted with the white powder characteristic of this region. An aardwolf, elusive and shy, offers a fleeting glimpse before retreating to its burrow. This nocturnal creature, rarely seen, adds a touch of mystery and excitement to the morning. Such a rare sighting is like a shot of adrenaline to the nature enthusiast’s system.
A call over the radio stirs further excitement among the guides – onkoshi have been spotted. Our game drive is soon filled with the awe-inspiring sights of elephant roadblocks and lions lounging lazily, their bellies full from the night’s feast. The lions’ bright yellow eyes pierce through the camera viewfinder, offering a glimpse into the wild soul of Ongava. At a muddy pool, we find the reserve’s eponymous mammal, his front horn coated in thick mud as he cleans and sharpens it on a fallen tree trunk. This is luxury in the wilderness – not just the comfort of the camp but the richness of the experiences it offers.
Back at the lodge, Rüppell’s Parrots sing in the tree outside our suite before swooping down to the overflowing edge of our private infinity pool for a drink. Their grey plumage with that stark interruption of bright yellow feathers on the wing reflects in the clear water. The equally clear winter sky overhead mirrors the moment perfectly. Here, the adventure is in the detail, each moment a blend of the serenity and thrill of the wild.
As night falls, a Pearl-spotted Owlet perches outside our front door, its eyes darting in search of prey. A tiny tree squirrel scampers along the lodge’s winding walkway and then up through the branches of a neighbouring tree, embodying the charm and whimsy of Little Ongava. This seamless blend of comfort and untamed nature is the essence of the lodge’s allure.
The lodge itself feels like a luxurious home away from home. Its blend of colonial safari camp aesthetics and modern comforts creates an inviting atmosphere. There is nothing pretentious here – just an understated elegance that makes you feel instantly at ease. It is like sinking into a warm clawfoot tub, indulgent and beautifully settled. The staff’s genuine warmth, skill and hospitality make every guest feel special. This is luxury without pretence, adventure without the rough edges.
Our seven-course dinner on the main deck, under a starlit sky, is a gastronomic journey. The waterhole below, illuminated for evening visitors, is a stage for a myriad of creatures, among them black rhinos and hyenas. The dining, too, is an opulent adventure, where every course is a discovery and every glance up reveals the infinite expanse of the night sky.
Little Ongava is a place where the setting emphasises the surrounding wilderness. Where every detail is designed to enhance your visit and remind you that nature truly comes first here, from the lofty setting and vast views to the incredible staff and focus on giving you an authentic and enriching experience. The adventure lies not just in the game drives, walking safaris, spa indulgences, national park excursions or waterhole wildlife encounters on offer, but in the seamless integration of opulence and nature. Ongava’s story, 30 years in the making, reminds us that wilderness is a luxury we cannot afford to take for granted. TN
THE NAMIBIAN WATER SPORTS EVENT OF WORLD RENOWN
that you have probably never heard of
Björn Dunkerbeck- 42 times windsurf world champion and Red Bull Athlete
Namibia is a paradise for adventure enthusiasts, offering a plethora of activities that range from mountain biking and hiking to fishing and surfing. Among these, the Lüderitz Speed Challenge reigns supreme as one of the most thrilling adventure water sports events on the global stage, and yet, most people beyond the windsurfing community have never even heard of it. This annual sailing competition for speed windsurfers is held at the historic coastal town of Lüderitz and has been breaking records and pushing the limits of the sport since its inception in 2007, with no less than 150 national and 20 world speed windsurfing records broken across the men’s and ladies’ ranks.
Every year, from mid-October to the end of November, the winds of Lüderitz transform this quiet town into a hotspot for speed sailors. Competitors, including national champions and advanced windsurfers from around the world, converge at Second Lagoon, with its specially designed 1,000-metrelong canal that offers the perfect conditions for high-speed runs for these highly skilled windsurfers. The goal is simple yet incredibly challenging: to sail as fast as possible over a set distance of 500 metres and see which barriers and global records can be broken in the process. Smashing personal bests is a bonus; breaking the world speed surfing record is the dream.
Over the years, the event has seen most if not all of the toptier athletes in the sport, including Erik Beale, the first person to break 40 knots (74 km/h), and respective national and world record holders Farrel O’Shea from the UK and Antoine Albeau from France. Björn Dunkerbeck, a legend of the sport, is a huge proponent of the event. Speaking about the magic of the event, Dunkerbeck says: “It’s a combination of the channel’s perfection, flat water, wind angle, the equipment and skill.” Dunkerbeck has been dominating the windsurfing scene since 1987. He set his first open ocean windsurfing record in 1992, clocking in at 43.30 knots (80 km/h) over 500 metres. With an impressive 42 world championship titles in various disciplines of the sport, he stands as the most decorated athlete in windsurfing history.
THE PERFECT CONDITIONS
The success of the Lüderitz Speed Challenge hinges on its unique location and the man-made canal. The thermal winds in Lüderitz, caused by the contrasting hot desert air and cold Atlantic Ocean, create the perfect high-speed conditions. Over the years, event organisers have been continuously improving the canal to optimise speeds.
In addition, modern technology plays a crucial role in accurately measuring these speeds. Advanced GPS systems ensure precise timing, replacing the cumbersome 800 metres of cable used for speed cameras in the past.
Each year, the event attracts about 30 competitors, with a daily limit of 15 participants on the canal to avoid overcrowding and ensure each rider has ample opportunity for multiple runs. This careful management allows for a smooth and focused competition where athletes can truly test their mettle.
MORE ACTIVITIES AND ADVENTURES IN AND AROUND LÜDERITZ
Kolmanskop Ghost Town: Explore the abandoned diamond mining town, now engulfed by sand dunes. Two daily guided tours are on offer. Open daily. Fee payable at the gate.
Dias Point: Visit the replica of the historic Dias Cross (1488) and lighthouse. Enjoy birdwatching, especially flamingos at Second Lagoon.
Catamaran Tours: Observe African penguins and flamingos on Halifax Island with tours that also offer the chance to spot whales (in season), Heaviside’s dolphins and Cape fur seals en route.
Lüderitz Peninsula: Drive through the scenic landscape, visiting various coves, fjords and wildlife habitats. Look for flamingos, Cape fur seals, brown hyenas and other wildlife. There are two routes available (4x4 and 4x2).
FULL-DAY GUIDED 4X4 TOUR INTO THE TSAU //KHAEB (SPERRGEBIET)
Bogenfels Rock Arch: The 59-metre-high natural rock arch located in the Tsau //Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park is accessible via a guided 4x4 tour that also includes visiting the Bongenfels and Pomona ghost towns. Tours must be booked at least five days in advance.
THE LEGACY OF LÜDERITZ
Endorsed by the World Sailing Speed Record Council, the Lüderitz Speed Challenge has become the premier speed sailing event in the world. Its reputation for high-speed thrills and record-breaking achievements continues to grow, drawing more competitors and spectators each year. Lüderitz Nest Hotel, the event’s longest-running sponsor and official accommodation partner, provides a base for participants and visitors, ensuring they experience the best of Namibian hospitality.
As Namibia continues to offer unparalleled adventure activities against its stunning landscapes, the Lüderitz Speed Challenge stands out as a testament to the spirit of adventure and the pursuit of excellence. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or an enthusiast, this event promises a unique and exhilarating experience that is truly one of a kind. TN
After a hard day’s entertainment, which you probably started by partaking in OYSTER BOX GUESTHOUSE hearty breakfast, you can unwind on our open deck, watch the African sunset over the vast Atlantic Ocean or have the customary ‘sundowner’ in our sheltered lounge and bar where you might just meet somebody interesting from the side of the world, from Sweden or Chile, from Japan or Costa Rica.
Whatever your needs may be, our friendly staff will assist you and will do their best to ensure that you have a fabulous time at OYSTER BOX GUESTHOUSE!
My husband and I have just had an enjoyable holiday in Namibia and bought your magazine. We stayed at an amazing campsite in the Erongo that I thought you should know about – it is called Black Rock campsite and is on a farm, Omukutu, well-stocked in wildlife. It is the artistic differences that make this an outstanding campsite. Their use of what was available, combined with a creative eye for detail, culminates in an adventure. At the one watering point, there is a small plunge pool with crystal clear water under a sliding cover – it is not announced so one has to explore, creating the adventure. The incredible mosaics add something special to even just going to the loo or having an outdoor shower.
There’s something wonderful about being allowed to discover a campsite for oneself! And this is what the Black Rock campsite in the Erongos does. There are metal doors which have been repurposed and say “open at your own risk” and when you do (of course you’re going to) there’s a mirror inside! Lovely touches of humour and exquisite use of old signs and metal valve handles which have been repurposed. One of my favourite signs at this amazing place says “Don’t run backwards”! The ablutions have been built up a hillside and have a staircase leading from the toilet to the open shower at the top, but there is also a domed room containing a shower, toilet and glass to the sky. The mosaics are everywhere with serpents crawling up the walls and directing one to the shower head or showing one which tap is hot and which cold. But my favourite is the plunge pool at the waterhole which slides open, keeping the water crystal clear. At sunset, the kudus came out to graze and the giraffe elegantly watched from below their eyelashes. Not just a campsite but a real experience to take home and cherish.
Please go and have a look,
Cheers, Jane Froggart
Sand, Sea, and Seals a Coastal Safari
Sequins on the sea, sparkling in the sun while seals moan like disgruntled teenagers – whom, we all joke, could use a lesson in gratitude – what is there to complain about? It’s a perfect day; we're seated beside crystalclear waters, savouring crayfish braaied over an open flame on the beach, following a morning of water-based adventures. And we’re only halfway through our day of enjoyment. Kirsty Watermeyer goes on an unexpected safari along Namibia's Atlantic Coast.
The morning began perfectly as we gathered at the Walvis Bay waterfront, preparing to board our sea vessel. As a guest of Mola Mola Safaris, I was about to embark on one of their top all-day adventures, where sea, sport, and sand converge to immerse guests in a world of untamed and wild beauty.
The weather was exceptional, with a gentle, warm breeze and clear blue skies setting the perfect tone for our day. Boarding our boat to cross the harbour, we were joined by a Cape fur seal, the first of many seal encounters to come. This cheerful creature eagerly boarded our vessel for an up-close biology lesson from our captain about the local seals, happily accepting a few fish in return. After satisfying his hunger, he bid us farewell, generously sharing his bounty with a friend who couldn’t quite master the art of boarding a moving boat.
A short trip brought us to Pelican Point, where we disembarked from our boat on the beach under the watchful eye of the famous Pelican Point lighthouse. Waiting for us was a coffee and tea station, alongside an enthusiastic team of kayakers ready to guide us through the next activity. Though the waters were calm, our kayaking adventure promised excitement as we shared the space with playful young seal pups. Curious and mischievous, their presence added a dynamic thrill to our outing. We had to firmly grip our oars as our playful companions attempted to snatch them away. Over and under our kayaks, the seals played, splashing and jumping with abandon, giving us a little wave and then returning under the waters. There was no telling what they would do next, and we were in their territory and vastly outnumbered, but they just came to play. Their playfulness served as a great reminder of the spirit of adventure and the importance of being open to possibilities.
When a large group of beach lounging seals decided to cool off in unison their collective dive into the ocean created a thrilling wake in the water. Despite the unpredictability of sharing the waters with these playful animals, the experience was safe enough for my two-year-old, securely strapped into a toddler life jacket, to join us. Whether seasoned kayakers or first-timers, everyone in our group agreed that kayaking with the seals was a highlight of our day.
After our thrilling kayaking adventure, our group reluctantly emerged from the water and was whisked away to a nearby spot where an extravagant beach braai awaited us. We were greeted with sparkling wine and oysters and quickly seated to indulge in a feast of fresh crayfish, beef fillet, exceptional salads, and freshly made garlic bread. Everyone eagerly dug in, some returning for seconds and thirds, yet miraculously leaving room for dessert plates of brownies and koeksisters paired with superb coffees. The attention to detail at the beach braai was impressive and included seashell and protea decorations in the makeshift
beach bathrooms. Moreover, the wonderful staff at Mola Mola were happy to supervise the younger children playing at the water's edge while their parents savoured the feast.
But the day wasn’t over yet, we were now set to embark on another rip-roaring fun portion of the day as we followed very specific trails through moving desert sands. Signs of the perils of diverting from the paths dotted our view, where disrupted sands tell the tales of trapped cars, embedded in quicksand-like portions of the beach or desert.
Our knowledgeable guide patiently answered our questions, which were plentiful within our group. We learned about where the jackals we spotted found freshwater, how wooden beacons were positioned in the days of ox-wagon travellers, and what gems and minerals
create the different colours that dance across the dunes.
The real highlight, however, was the rollercoaster-like thrill of riding 4x4s over the dunes. As we climbed each massive mound of sand, nerves tingle and people gripped whatever they could find. But it was at the very peak, as the vehicle peered over the edge of the precipice, readying for the exhilarating descent, that adrenaline truly surged. Some managed their excitement with screams, others with laughter, and some by tightly closing their eyes. It is a thrill and each successful dune conquest is an achievement.
After a gripping ride, we stop on top of the dune named Kodak, for its pictureperfect views of Sandwich Harbour. Here we’ll regroup, marvel, and frolic in the softest sands, readying ourselves
SANDWICH HARBOUR
Sandwich Harbour, located south of Walvis Bay, is a Ramsaracclaimed wetland accessible only by 4x4 vehicles. Renowned for its striking dune-sea scenery and rich birdlife, this lagoon, once an oceanic bay, is now encircled by sand. Shifting sands and high tides can affect accessibility, so it’s highly recommended to visit Sandwich Harbour with a professional tour company like Mola Mola Safaris.
for round two of our desert rollercoaster experience. On the return trip, we know what to expect and cheer our guide on as he offers us the option of more daring routes. Enjoyment, laughter, and a hint of fright characterise our ride until we arrive on a private dune with a sprawling ocean view and the promise of a recent whale sighting. We are the fortunate few, here a refreshment table of drinks and snacks has been promptly prepared, and we will perch atop a dune and watch whales playing in the Atlantic Ocean. It’s been a perfect day, and these closing moments are no different.
After a short drive past the salt works, we make one last pit stop before the end of our journey. We find ourselves at the Walvis Bay lagoon, spending our final moments together, sharing highlights among newfound friends with a backdrop of pink flamingos.
The sun dips towards the horizon, casting a warm glow across the rippling waters. Our hearts are full, having surrendered to the call of the sea and embraced the allure of the desert sands. We have lavished in maritime adventures where we connected with the sea’s timeless allure, its bursts of excitement, and its tranquil stillness. We have voyaged to desert corners, where few have traversed, and listened to the whispers of the wind while absorbing breathtaking beauty.
Mola Mola Safaris have been perfecting Namibian sea-based adventures for years and are known for their generous helping of Namibian hospitality. Would I recommend the all-day adventure Kayak combo with beach braai with Mola Mola? Absolutely and wholeheartedly. TN
Finding Space in Namibia’s Vast Deserts Exploring Wildlife in Botswana’s Delta Feeling the power of Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls swasaf@swasafaris com www.swasafaris.com
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