Travel love Poland Magazine - October 2017

OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2017 | VOL 1 | ISSUE 1

travel.lovePoland

? d a o r r u o y 's e r e h W

DESTINATION

CULTURE

NATURE

places in Poland you must see - hidden attractions

connected with its intricate thousand-year history

most beautiful spots in Poland Incredible wildlife

EVERYONE WANTS TO LIVE ON TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN BUT ALLÂ THE HAPPINESS AND GROWTH OCCURS WHILE YOU'RE CLIMBING IT. ANDY ROONEY

VOLUME 1 ISSUE 1

from the editor

Dear Readers, Welcome to the first issue of travel.lovePoland magazine.

We have been running lovePoland.org profile for over two years now and our further development should be just a natural consequence of it. Let's start with a new free online magazine. We hope that it will be an interesting source of information about our country, especially for our friends from abroad. We would like the beauty of Poland to be presented through photographs to encourage you to get to know Poland better and to become an inspiration for your own research.

We are especially grateful to the authors of the photographs for their cooperation at the first edition. Meet their creative works of art. This is an inspirational experience.

Enjoy your reading. The next issue we are planning to put at your disposal in December 2017.

It will be a Winter/Christmas edition.

Cheers!

artur EDITOR TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND you can contact us via info@lovepoland.org

Contributors to this Issue: Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek, Katarzyna Gubrynowicz, Ceil Wendt Jensen, Erna Polak, Monika Staniszewska, Verónica Zanazzo Goussal, Paweł Totoro Adamiec, Piotr Koy, Przemysław Kruk, Owen Williams.

Our special thanks to Kasia and britanniaweb.co.uk for the support.

Thank You. TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND online magazine published by love Poland ltd Registered office address: 178 Mitcham Road, London, England, SW17 9NJ Company number 10956488 Company registered in England and Wales copyrights by love Poland ltd and/ or authors of photographs and texts as indicated.All photographs and texts are published under the exclusive permission granted to travel.lovePoland Magazine by their authors. Please do not copy or publish without authorisation.

WWW.LOVEPOLAND.ORG

T R A V E L . L O V E P O L A N D

M A G A Z I N E

VOL 1. ISSUE 1, OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2017

C O N T E N T S Pieniny and Dunajec river 0 5

Lanckorona. Silent Magic 1 0

1 4

Bug river Kings by Pawel 'Totoro' Adamiec

2 2

interview Katarzyna Gubrynowicz, Białowieża

3 6

interview Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolalek, Polish Culinary Paths

30 42 50 52 60 64 68 76 78 84 88 97 100 106

Urban Escapes: Gdańsk Arabian horses by Erna Polak Owen Williams - an Englishman Monika Staniszewska - Wildlife The Legend Of Lajkonik Chopin Museum Ceil Wendt Jensen A letter from Argentina Złoty Potok by Przemysław Kruk The past. Tarnopol Piotr Koy - Baltic coast Szczecin short visit Bochnia salt mine Polish kitchen - everyday soups and more.

photo on the front cover: Paweł Totoro Adamiec

P I E N I N Y

A N D R I V E R

D U N A J E C L E G E N D

A trek in the Pieniny Mountains, especially in summer and autumn, belongs to one of the most relaxing trips in Poland.

05Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

THE LEGEND OF THE DUNAJEC RIVER PHOTOS BY ARTUR TOMASZ LOVEPOLAND.ORG

A trek in the Pieniny Mountains, especially in summer and autumn, belongs to one of the most relaxing trips in Poland. After climbing the scenic peaks of Three Crowns and Sokolica, you can go for a rafting trip down the Dunajec River. Today it belongs to well-organised attractions of the Pieniny Mountains. It has lost a bit of its former simplicity, but thanks to that, the accessibility for tourists has greatly improved. The trip takes about 2 hours (depending on the route) and usually starts in Sromowce Wyżne.

Prior to the trip, you should familiarize yourself with the local legends, which can be then heard from the rafters during the rafting.

The Dunajec River Gorge was formed over millions of years. Initially, the largest river of the Pieniny quietly rolled its waters at the height of today's peaks and in no way resembled today's Dunajec with its rushing, typically mountainous currents.

The continuous process of orogeny of the Pieniny Mountains and the gradual ripping of the river into the soft limestone ground made the Dunajec River, in time, carve out a deep breakthrough and reach the present level. Folk tradition did not want to absorb geological intricacies, but for centuries created its own theories about it. Almost everyone repeats the theme of a huge lake surrounded by mountains that once existed in the place of today's Dunajec. Only the breach formed in the rocks released the water collected in the lake and thus the most famous river of the Pieniny Mountains was born. Legends provide several versions of this event, as well as various locations of this mysterious lake.

According to one of them, it was located in the area of present-day Spišská Stará Ves. When the Pieniny were devastated by the Tartars, Jesus himself was to hit the rocks with a lightning five times and thus put in motion the water that sunk the invading army.

The other versions assumes that the lake was of a size of a small sea, located somewhere between the Pieniny and the Tatra Mountains.

It was reportedly closed with a natural barrier in the area of Facimiech. It was about to collapse after the death of the king of the Pieniny. There is also a story, according to which the Dunajec River Gorge was created

by Boleslaw the Brave himself as he wanted to relieve the miserable inhabitants of the area and make the soils of the Pieniny become more fertile. The load was to see a lake called the Dunajec, when he stood with his troops on the top of Gorc. The king ordered the waters to be drained to make fertile farmlands and pastures at the lake site.

However, the rocks were hard to crush for the king’s people, so King Boleslaw the Brave himself went to work, crushed the boulders and released the Dunajec. The work, however, made the king so tired that when he finished his work he said, "It will be hungry, cold, but free here." This meant that the fate of the peasants in the Pieniny Mountains would not be easier, but instead they would enjoy freedom. As far as freedom is regarded, it was different in later centuries, but it must be admitted that all these stories contained some prophecy. Hence, nowadays, standing on one of the glades below the peak of Gorc and looking south, you can see in the distance Lake Czorsztyn. From a distance it feels as if it stretches precisely between the Pieniny and the Tatra Mountains, just like the legendary lake from which the Dunajec was supposed to be born.

07 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

LEGENDA DUNAJCA WERSJA POLSKA

Wyprawa w Pieniny, zwłaszcza latem i jesienią, należy do jednej z najbardziej relaksujących podróży po Polsce. Po wędrówce na widokowe szczyty Trzech Koron i Sokolicy warto się wybrać na spływ Dunajcem.

Dziś należy on do doskonale zorganizowanych atrakcji Pienin. Zniknęła nieco dawna prostota ale dzięki temu dostępność dla turystów znacznie się poprawiła. Wycieczka zajmuje około 2 godzin (w zależności od trasy) i zaczyna się zwykle w Sromowcach Wyżnych. Przed wyprawą warto zapoznać się z miejscowymi legendami, które można potem usłyszeć od flisaków podczas spływu.

Przełom Dunajca formował się przez miliony lat. Początkowo największa rzeka Pienin spokojnie toczyła swe wody na wysokości dzisiejszych szczytów i w niczym nie przypominała dzisiejszego Dunajca z jego rwącym, typowo górskim nurtem. Zachodzące cały czas wypiętrzanie Pienin oraz stopniowe wcinanie się rzeki w miękkie wapienne podłoże sprawiły jednak, że z czasem Dunajec wyżłobił głęboki przełom i znalazł się na obecnym poziomie. Ludowa tradycja za nic nie chciała sobie jednak przyswoić geologicznych zawiłości i przez wieki stworzyła na ten temat własne teorie. W niemal wszystkich powtarza się motyw ogromnego jeziora otoczonego górami, które dawniej istniało w miejscu dzisiejszego Dunajca. Dopiero utworzony w skałach wyłom uwolnił zgromadzone w jeziorze wody i w ten sposób miała się narodzić najsłynniejsza rzeka Pienin. Legendy podają kilka wersji tego zdarzenia, a także różne lokalizacje owego tajemniczego jeziora.

Według jednej z nich, znajdowało się ono w rejonie dzisiejszej Starej Wsi Spiskiej. Gdy Pieniny pustoszone były przez Tatarów, sam Jezus miał pięć razy uderzyć piorunem w skały i wprawić w ruch wody, które zatopiły armię najeźdźców. Inna wersja twierdzi, że jezioro miało rozmiar małego morza i położone było między Pieninami i Tatrami. Zamykała je podobno naturalna zapora, znajdująca się w okolicy Facimiecha.

Miała ona runąć po śmierci króla Pienin. Istnieje też przekaz, zgodnie z którym Przełom Dunajca stworzony został przez samego Bolesława Chrobrego, który chciał ulżyć niedoli okolicznych mieszkańców i sprawić, aby pienińskie ziemie stały się bardziej urodzajne. Władca miał ujrzeć jezioro o nazwie Dunajec, gdy wraz ze swoimi wojskami stał na szczycie Gorca. Król nakazał spuścić wody, by w miejscu jeziora uczynić żyzne pola uprawne i pastwiska. Kucie skał szło jednak królewski ludziom opornie, więc król Bolesław Chrobry sam wziął się do roboty, własnoręcznie przerąbał głazy i uwolnił Dunajec. Praca ta zmęczyła jednak króla tak bardzo, że gdy skończył swe dzieło, rzekł: „Będzie tu głodno, chłodno, ale swobodno”. Miało to oznaczać, że los pienińskich chłopów wcale nie stanie się łatwiejszy, ale w zamian będą się oni cieszyć wolnością.

Z tą wolnością bywało w późniejszych stuleciach różnie, ale przyznać trzeba, że wszystkie te historie zawierały w sobie jakąś przepowiednię. Oto bowiem stojąc dziś na jednej z polan pod szczytem Gorca i spoglądając na południe, zobaczyć można w oddali Jezioro Czorsztyńskie. Z daleka robi ono wrażenie, jakby rozciągało się dokładnie między Pieninami i Tatrami, zupełnie jak legendarne jezioro, z którego miał narodzić się Dunajec.

08 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

view on Niedzica Castle also known as Dunajec Castle

09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

LANCKORONA

photos lovePoland.org

We have visited Lanckorona for a very personal reason. We are still looking for our place on earth, and as the location is beautiful, it was worth checking out. Obviously, above all, it is a great place to have some rest and escape from everyday routine. Lanckorona is a picturesque village only 36 km away from Cracow and 7 km from Kalwaria Zebrzydowska. It is situated on the highest hill in the area - Lanckoronska Mountain (550 m above sea level) and offers views on the Tatras and Babia Góra. Lanckorona was once a favourite resting place for painters, writers and artists who sought inspiration among the beautiful landscapes and charming wooden cottages. To this day, it is one of the most beautiful villages in Lesser Poland (Małopolska).

Tourists wishing to hike can choose from 5 walking trails: red: Former Royal Route green: Alley of Lovers blue: Road to the Swamps yellow: Avenue of Silent Whispers brown: Road to the Old Quarry One of the routes leads through the northern part of Lanckorońska Mountain, where one can see the ruins of a castle built during the reign of Casimir the Great. Lanckorona, although today it is a quiet, ‘off the beaten track’ town, in its history witnessed many interesting events and was a point of great significance on the map of Lesser Poland.

11 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The castle was first destroyed in 1655 during Swedish Deluge, when about 80 houses were burned down along with a part of the castle and then, once again, during the fights of the Bar Confederation in 1772. Today, we can admire only the partial remains of the drawbridge and bastions connected with fortified walls.

Thanks to its rich history and picturesque location of the ruins, the castle was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a cultural and landscape element of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska.

After hiking, you have to rest on the benches of Lanckorona market, surrounded by antique, wooden houses. The steep market with picturesque, perpendicular alleyways, remembers the time of nineteenth century reconstruction.

It also reminds that until 1934 Lanckorona had the city rights. At the bottom of the market there is a regional museum and a shop where you can buy local honey, jams, ceramic and lace.

It is also worth visiting the 14th-century church of St. John the Baptist. Its interior bears the hallmarks of various epochs: the main altar was erected in the late Renaissance, the baptismal font and the picture of the baptism of Christ in the baroque and the altarpiece represents the rococo. Lanckorona's friendly atmosphere has attracted well-known artists for years.

Peace, tranquillity, fresh air, interesting history, proximity to nature and a variety of accommodation options - from hotels to guesthouses and agritourism farms - make Lanckorona the perfect place for a weekend getaway outside Cracow.

photos lovePoland.org

LANCKORONA WERSJA POLSKA

Lanckoronę odwiedziliśmy z bardzo osobistego powodu. Wciąż szukamy swojego miejsca na ziemi, a że położenie przepiękne, więc warto było sprawdzić. Oczywiście, przede wszystkim, jest to jednak wspaniałe miejsce na chwile odpoczynku i ucieczki od codzienności.

Lanckorona to malownicza wieś oddalona zaledwie o 36 km od Krakowa i 7 km od Kalwarii Zebrzydowskiej.

Położona na najwyższym wzniesieniu w okolicy - Górze Lanckorońskiej (550 m n.p.m) oferuje widoki na Tatry i Babią Górę.

Lanckorona była niegdyś ulubionym miejscem wypoczynku malarzy, pisarzy i artystów, którzy szukali natchnienia wśród pięknych krajobrazów i urokliwych drewnianych domków. Do dziś jest jedną z najpiękniejszych wsi w Małopolsce. Turyści lubiący piesze wędrówki mogą wybrać jedną z 5 tras spacerowych: czerwoną: Dawny Trakt Królewski zieloną: Aleja Zakochanych niebieską: Droga na Moczary żółtą: Aleja Cichych Szeptów brązową: Droga do Dawnego Kamieniołomu Jedna z tras wiedzie przez północną część Góry Lanckorońskiej, gdzie znajdują się ruiny zamku zbudowanego jeszcze za czasów Kazimierza Wielkiego. Lanckorona, choć dziś jest spokojną mieściną na uboczu, była bowiem świadkiem wielu ciekawych wydarzeń w swojej historii, a i na mapie Małopolski pełniła szczególne znaczenie.

Zamek uległ zniszczeniu najpierw w 1655 r. podczas potopu szwedzkiego, kiedy wraz z częścią zamku spalono ok. 80 domów, a następnie za sprawą walk podczas konfederacji barskiej w 1772 r. Dziś podziwiamy jedynie fragmenty mostu zwodzonego i baszt połączonych murem obronnym. Bogata historia i malownicze położenie ruin zapewniły mu wpis na listę światowego dziedzictwa kultury UNESCO jako element kulturalnokrajobrazowy Kalwarii Zebrzydowskiej.

Po pieszych wędrówkach trzeba odpocząć na ławeczkach lanckorońskiego rynku, w otoczeniu zabytkowych, drewnianych domów. Stromy rynek, z którego pod kątem prostym odchodzą malownicze uliczki, pamięta XIX-wieczną odbudowę. Przypomina też, że do 1934r. Lanckorona posiadała prawa miejskie.

W dolnej części rynku jest muzeum regionalne oraz sklep, w którym można kupić lokalne miody, dżemy, wyroby ceramiczne i koronkowe. Warto też odwiedzić XIV-wieczny kościół św. Jana Chrzciciela. Jego wnętrze nosi znamiona różnych epok: ołtarz główny powstał w późnym renesansie, chrzcielnica i obraz Chrzest Chrystusa w baroku, a ołtarz boczny reprezentuje rokoko. Przyjazna atmosfera Lanckorony od lat przyciąga też znanych artystów.

Cisza, spokój, świeże powietrze, ciekawa historia, bliskość przyrody oraz różnorodna oferta noclegów: od hoteli przez pensjonaty i gospodarstwa agroturystyczne - czynią Lanckoronę idealnym miejscem na weekendowy wypad za Kraków.

13 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

BUG RIVER KINGS PAWEŁ

TOTORO

ADAMIEC

WHAT DREAMS ARE MADE OF

PAWEŁ "TOTORO" ADAMIEC Photographer, costume designer, visual artist & landscape architect. Lecturer at the Catholic University of Lublin and Lublin’s School of Photography. His works have appeared in many Polish and foreign magazines and portals (e.g. Wysokie Obcasy, Duży Format, National Geographic, Make-Up Artist Magazine, Szeroki Kadr).

He is a winner of numerous awards and honours, such as e.g.: Żurawie 2011, Blog Vogue Italia 2012, Gardenia 2015 (+Garden Concept), and the Man of the Year 2016 in the category of culture. He designed the cover to Fashion Book Poland, the first Polish fashion encyclopaedia. He is a member of the Audiovisual Culture Foundation Beetle.pl and Multimedia Agency Kaiju.pl.

Paweł has gained his basic environmental and artistic knowledge through his studies at the Faculty of Landscape Architecture, Catholic University of Lublin. He began his adventure with creative photography in 2009. For the purpose of photo shoots he creates costumes, make-up, hairstyles and set design, drawing on unusual materials and techniques. Nature, fairy tales, music and fashion are his inspiration.

In his work, he shows highly theatrical and distorted reality.

He pays special attention to emotions and free interpretation.

He is an author of artistic projects that aim at activating different age and social groups, and focuses on designing and shaping residential space and public green areas. He studies the meaning and selection of plants in residential multifamily housing and their place in urban eco-structures.

BUG RIVER KINGS 5 Land Art Festiwal (2015) Fotografie/kostiumy: Paweł Adamiec Asysta: Łukasz Maj, Dominik Zimny The project aimed at activating senior residents of villages situated along the Bug River. I wanted to show their openness and distance to life by creating a series of portraits of unreal kings of Podlachia. During the festival I prepared costumes which referred to royal attributes.

The costumes were mostly made of natural materials, as grass, wild flowers, bark or dried fruit.

When looking for models in Bubel Stary, Bubel Granna and Bubel Łukowiska villages. I invited more than 50 senior citizens to participate in the project. 13 of them agreed to be photographed in the costumes. In the end I selected 10 portraits for the final series.

During the session, the heroes were telling unusual stories of their lives and the area. They revealed in them a totally different, almost unreal reality, describing themselves as an isolated community.

Depopulation of their villages and impoverishment of the community was a recurring topic in their stories. They also pointed to the lack of entertainment for elderly people. Death, treated as something natural and tamed, was a common thread of our conversations.

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 2 6th Land Art Festival / 2016 Photographs/costumes: Paweł Adamiec Assistant: Lukasz Maj This is a continuation of the 2015 project. To enrich and complete the story of unreal kings of Podlachia, I decided to work with children from Bubel Granna, Bubel Łukowiska and Gnojno villages situated in the Bug River valley.

15 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The costumes, which I created during the festival, were once again made of natural materials that constitute a real value of that land.

To participate in the project, children had to give their assent and get the permission of their parents. Although hard to control at times, they turned out to be perfect models to shoot. They were really convincing in conveying the mood of the cycle and the roles they were asked to play. A great advantage was that most of them knew the first cycle of senior Kings, which helped them understand the idea of the project and the purpose of make-up, costumes and photos.

My work on the second cycle was different from the first part, both in terms of methods and mood, and the pace of work.

Instead of being melancholic, reflective or touching, it was rather energetic, idyllic and spontaneous. We talked about playing in the country, ways of spending time and daily tasks.

Meeting with a younger general of people living in Podlachia has revealed to me yet another fascinating face of that land.

18

find out more about Pawel: www.paweladamiec.pl www.lovepoland.org/pawel-totoro-adamiec/

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 1

by Paweł Totoro Adamiec

Why do you go away? So that you can come back.

So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too...

ART GALLERY PAWEŁ "TOTORO" ADAMIEC

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 2

by Paweł Totoro Adamiec

17 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ART GALLERY PAWEŁ "TOTORO" ADAMIEC

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 2

by Paweł Totoro Adamiec

18 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ART GALLERY PAWEŁ "TOTORO" ADAMIEC

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 2

by Paweł Totoro Adamiec

19 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ART GALLERY PAWEŁ "TOTORO" ADAMIEC

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 2

by Paweł Totoro Adamiec

20 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ART GALLERY PAWEŁ "TOTORO" ADAMIEC

BUG RIVER KINGS / PART 2

by Paweł Totoro Adamiec

21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

INTO THE WOODS BIAŁOWIEŻA FOREST KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

INTO THE WOODS & BIAŁOWIEŻA FOREST An interview with Katarzyna Gubrynowicz; Photos KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ In this interview, we are going to the beautiful world captured by the eyes of Katarzyna Gubrynowicz, who presents us with her amazing photographs of the nature of the Bialowieza Forest. www.gubrynowicz.pl

Kasia, tell us something about yourself, what do you do and how did your photography adventure begin?

In general – I deal with art. By profession I am a graphic artist, a graduate from the Academy of Fine Arts. I work in graphic techniques, graphic design and photography - mainly digital but I also apply a very old technique of gum bichromated.

Actually, photography has been with me since my childhood. I was 9 years old when I got my first camera. Of course, these were the days of analogue cameras. I used to take black-and-white photos and developed them myself in the darkroom. This was my first fascination with photography. Years later, I met some enthusiasts of nature photography, I started to go to open-air photography workshops, and I got involved in this kind of photography.

Looking at your portfolio, it looks like you specialise in nature photography. Can I say that this is your domain?

Definitely yes. Especially landscapes. I also enjoy taking the photos of wild animals and plants, but they are only a supplement to my portfolio.

Because I am not a biologist - thanks to photography - I am still learning the nature that I depict. This is a really exciting job!

Why did you decide for nature photography?

In today's world, especially in Europe, it is increasingly difficult to find virgin landscapes, it is more and more difficult to see true wildlife.

Why did you decide for nature photography?

In today's world, especially in Europe, it is increasingly difficult to find virgin landscapes, it is more and more difficult to see true wildlife.

I look for such views and try to capture them the best I can. It is like a mission - to make people aware of the beauty of what is wild and to preserve these images for future generations. An example of this is the Bialowieza Forest, a valuable piece of Polish nature - currently threatened with devastation.

What is the key in nature photography?

Humility towards nature and patience. Sometimes you have to spend a lot of time and sometimes even many seasons to capture this one moment that will make the photo look the way we want it. Extremely helpful, and sometimes even necessary, is the knowledge about the subject matter that we are dealing with - regarding the terrain or the species.

This is especially important in the case of rare or mischievous species that we want to depict.

Ethics is the key issue in this kind of photography.

When photographing wildlife - we become responsible for it.

Taking photos is like telling a story in pictures.

What are your stories?

It would be best if everyone found in these photos their own stories - personal, unique ones. But I certainly like to build the atmosphere of a certain mystery, an understatement that is hidden in the morning mist or in the old forest at dusk. I talk about freedom in broad landscapes or about hope in the rays of the rising sun.

23 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

What does a nature photographer carry in a bag (or rather in a backpack) to be able to create such pictures?

For the nature photographer, a comfortable and spacious backpack is definitely much better than a bag.

Often you have to walk all day and the equipment that you carry with you weighs a lot. Apart from the camera itself - a SLR camera, you also need some lenses.

A bird photographer will need primarily a lens with a long focal length, a close up photographer - a macro lens or at least an intermediate rings. I usually take outdoors a telephoto lens with variable focal length of 100-400mm, universal 24-105mm and wide-angle zoom of 17-40. Additionally, a macro lens macro, rings, and obviously spare batteries for the camera, memory card and cleaning cloth for the lens.

Very useful, and sometimes even necessary, is a stable tripod that allows you to take stable pictures with long exposure time.

As you can see – there are a lot of things to carry. But according to the principle that the best camera is the one you have with you, it may happen that the picture of your life you will take with... a smartphone ;-)

thanks Kasia for the interview

for more visit the website www.gubrynowicz.pl Katarzyna Gubrynowicz, a nature photographer, a graphic artist. In 2013-2016 – the President of the Polish Nature Photographers' Union. She travels through Poland and Europe immortalising the beauty of nature in her photos.

Involved in environmental protection.

GALLERY KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

Photo KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

25 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

Photo KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

26 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

Photo KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

27 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

Photo KATARZYNA GUBRYNOWICZ

28 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

BIAŁOWIEŻA FOREST GET INTO THE WILD UNESO describes Białowieża forest as a Outstanding Universal Value. 'Białowieża Forest is a large forest complex located on the border between Poland and Belarus. Thanks to several ages of protection the Forest had survived in its natural state to this day. The Bialowieza National Park, Poland, was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979 and extended to include Belovezhskaya Pushcha, Belarus, in 1992. A large extension of the property in 2014 results in a property of 141,885ha with a buffer zone of 166,708 ha. This property includes a complex of lowland forests that are characteristics of the Central European mixed forests terrestrial ecoregion. The area has exceptionally conservation significance due to the scale of its old growth forests, which include extensive undisturbed areas where natural processes are on-going.

A consequence is the richness in dead wood, standing and on the ground, and consequently a high diversity of fungi and saproxylic invertebrates. The property protects a diverse and rich wildlife of which 59 mammal species, over 250 bird, 13 amphibian, 7 reptile and over 12,000 invertebrate species. The iconic symbol of the property is the European Bison: approximately 900 individuals in the whole property which make almost 25% of the total world’s population and over 30% of free-living animals. Criterion: Białowieża Forest conserves a diverse complex of protected forest ecosystems which exemplify the Central European mixed forests terrestrial ecoregion, and a range of associated non-forest habitats, including wet meadows, river valleys and other wetlands. The area has an exceptionally high nature conservation value, including extensive old-growth forests.

The large and integral forest area supports complete food webs including viable populations of large mammals and large carnivores (wolf, lynx and otter) amongst other. The richness in dead wood, standing and on the ground, leads to a consequent high diversity of fungi and saproxylic invertebrates. The long tradition of research on the little disturbed forest ecosystem and the numerous publications, including description of new species, also contributes significantly to the values of the nominated property' By whc.unesco.org How to get to the Polish part of the forest: Usually Warsaw is the best starting point for the tourists from abroad. Because of the fact that Białowieża Forest is a big area the town Hajnówka named The Forest Gate is the best place where you can start discovering Białowieża Forest. If you choose flying to Warsaw you should know that Warsaw is about 220 km away from the Forest. Rent a car a have your accommodation booked in Hajnówka area ( you can also decide to find an apartment in Balowieża) When driving, remember that the Forest is a home of wild animals and along your way you can meet a boar, deer or bison crossing the road. So beware and watch road signs.

29 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

, Gdansk

GET

TO

KNOW

THE

SITES

OF OLD GDAŃSK By www.gdansk.pl/en/for-tourists

Walking in our city and getting to know its history etched in the monuments will give you many magical moments and true emotions. Gdańsk is a pearl of bourgeois architecture, boasting beautiful houses and a unique market. It is a world of cozy streets and historical churches. These are also perfectly preserved fortifications, ranked among the biggest in Europe, and interesting harbour architecture.

Gdańsk - a city for active people If you enjoy spending your free time actively, our attractions are just what you are looking for. The choice is wide: picturesque cycling and walking paths, kilometres of beaches and one of Poland's largest zoos. Gdańsk is an active city for active people.

Tourist Information The Tourist Information Centres are scattered in five spots of the city to enable tourists the easiest access to them. They provide comprehensive information and advice for tourists. In each of them you can book accommodation and a variety of guide and courier services.

31 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The Długa Street and the Długi Targ Street The Długa and Długi Targ Streets which are also known as Trakt Królewski (the Royal Route) rank among the most beautiful streets in Gdańsk.

The wealthiest Gdańsk patricians used to live there and almost every tenement house has its own interesting history to tell. The oldest preserved houses date back to the Middle Ages, but most of the buildings were erected in modern times.

Tenement houses on Długa Street are typical Gdańsk houses with narrow facades topped with gables or attics, richly decorated with coats of arms, allegoric figures and silhouettes of ancient heroes. The most important secular buildings - the Hall of the Main City and the Artus Court are located on Długi Targ Street.

32 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The Crane The Crane over the Motlawa River is the most characteristic and unmistaken symbol of Gdańsk.

Back in the Middle Ages it was the largest port crane in Europe handling cargo and putting up ship masts. It also served as an uncommon city gate.

The reconstructed driving mechanism inside, still in working condition, is an immense wooden wheel originally propelled by men literally walking in it.

Today the majestic Crane, a fine specimen of the historic port facilities, sets an excellent background for the rich collection of the Maritime Museum.

The Royal Chapel It was founded on the initiative of King Jan III Sobieski to serve as a temporary place of worship for the Catholics of St Mary's parish church, which at that time was held by Protestants.

THE NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN By www.gdansk.pl/en/for-tourists

The Neptune Fountain has stood in front of the Artus Court since 1633 and is a symbol of this city.

It was built on the initiative of the Mayor of Gdańsk, Bartłomiej Schachmann. The model was prepared

by Peter Husen and Johann Rogge, and it was cast in 1615 in Augsburg. The design of the whole fountain was prepared by Abraham van den Blocke.

The ornamented grill surrounding the fountain dates back to 1634.

In the years 1757-1761 Johann Karl Stender redecorated the basin and the base of the fountain in the Rococo style, by adding a large array of sea creatures. According to one of the Gdańsk legends it was Neptune himself who contributed to the creation of the famous Gdańsk liqueur called Goldwasser. He got angry at people throwing golden coins into the fountain and hit the water with his trident so hard that the gold fell to pieces, forming small golden flakes which now shine in the tasty herbal liqueur.

Tourist Information: The Tourist Information Centres are scattered in five spots of the city to enable tourists the easiest access to them. They provide comprehensive information and advice for tourists. In each of them you can book accommodation and a variety of guide and courier services.

33 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GDAŃSK IS A PEARL OF BOURGEOIS ARCHITECTURE BOASTING BEAUTIFUL HOUSES AND A UNIQUE MARKET

34 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

WALKING IN OUR CITY AND GETTING TO KNOW ITS HISTORY ETCHED IN THE MONUMENTS WILL GIVE YOU MANY MAGICAL MOMENTS AND TRUE EMOTIONS

35Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

POLISH CULINARY PATHS MAGDALENA TOMASZEWSKA BOLAŁEK

PHOTO BY MARTA PAŃCZYK

AN INTERVIEW travel.lovePoland: Magda, would you like to introduce yourself?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: I am Orientalist, journalist and culinary blogger. I work in company which deals with Polish-Japanese cultural and economical relations. I also write books about food history and I am a head of postgraduate Food Studies on the University of Social Sciences and Humanities in Warsaw.

I research the history of world cuisines, food anthropology, neurogastronomy, food diplomacy and food tourism. I love good food, swimming and historical European martial arts. t.lP: Can you describe the time when you first realised that cooking / culinary path was something you absolutely had to do? (If so, why orient ?)

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: It was during Japanese Studies. One time I was attending a international conference. Among the panels there was one about Japanese food culture. That time food studies were nearly unknown in Poland. Papers presented during panel showed me that food culture is not only about cooking and eating. Food brings emotion, symbolic meaning, the essence of culture itself.

When it comes to research multidisciplinary approach is very important for me and food studies allows me to focus on food and examine it from different perspectives (cultural, historical, chemical and so on). t.lP: You can merge so exotic (for us) tradition with a polish cooking?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: I do it sometimes.

Fusion cuisine is popular concept. You can make a Asian fillings for Polish dumpling, add some oriental herbs and soy sauce to meat marinade or create for example grey cheesecake using black sesame paste. t.lP: What people in other countries say (e.g. Japan, China) when whey taste Polish cooking?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: Polish cuisine in East Asia is much appreciated, because of the umami taste. Our traditional dishes like żurek or bigos have lot of umami. But that is not all, mushrooms, game, seasoned charcuterie, smoked fish and meat, fermented food and potatoes dishes also draw attention.

37 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

INTERVIEW TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND WITH MAGDA TOMASZEWSKA BOLAŁEK WWW.KUCHNIOKRACJA.HANAMI.PL

POLISH CULINARY PATHS We can not forget about traditional Polish sweets and alcoholic beverages like mead, cordials and Polish vodka. In general foreigners do not know much about Polish cuisine and upon tasting it they become very surprised that we have so many products and dishes. t.lP: What does “being creative” mean to you?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: Creativity for me is seeing things in big picture, combining ideas from different parts from the world and blending tradition with a new approach. t.lP: Is it related to the choices that you have made in your professional life?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: Very much.

I research food culture which is changing constantly, especially in last 50 years. I also focus on promoting Polish culinary culture, and it is quite challenging. Although Poland is a vast country and many Poles live abroad our cuisine is not very popular. Every one knows Italian pasta or pizza, Japan is famous from sushi and nihonshu (sake), when it comes to Poland people have problem with pointing iconic products and dishes. t.lP: What’s your favourite thing you’ve ever cooked?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: I have a sweet tooth. I love cakes, desserts and of course chocolate. One of my favourite things I have made is white chocolate and matcha cream layer cake with fresh strawberries.

What’s the best advice you ever had about cooking?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: Cooking and eating is all about emotions. You can cut vegetables with the greatest precision, use the best products available on the market and do the most sophisticated plating in the world but if you forget about joy of cooking and that you want to make people happy it will be just another soulless dish. Only love and commitment allows to make a tasty food. I have learnt that East Asia. t.lP: And obviously...your plans for the nearest future?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: In future I would love to write more about Polish cuisine for foreigners.

In few days „Polish Culinary Paths” - my book about Polish food culture - will be available in Vietnam in Vietnamese. Book was also published in English, Chinese, Japanese and Korean (All Asian versions were prepared for Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs and are available as free online versions www.hanami.pl/pcp ). t.lP: Some more culinary trips?

Magdalena Tomaszewska Bolałek: In October I will be promoting Polish food culture in Hanoi. There will be lectures about Polish food history and of course cooking traditional Polish dishes with modern twist.

The event is organised with cooperation of Embassy of Poland in Hanoi. thank you SEE MORE AT:

www.kuchniokracja.hanami.pl

Links to "Polish Culinary Paths" KOREAN JAPANESE CHINESE VIETNAMESE

38 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

https://issuu.com/msz.gov.pl/docs/pkp_kr https://issuu.com/msz.gov.pl/docs/pkp_jp https://issuu.com/msz.gov.pl/docs/pkp_ch https://issuu.com/msz.gov.pl/docs/polish_culinary_paths_vietnamese

PHOTO: MAGDALENA TOMASZEWSKA BOLAŁEK, POLISH CULINARY PATHS

39 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

PHOTO: MAGDALENA TOMASZEWSKA BOLAŁEK, POLISH CULINARY PATHS

40 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

PHOTO: MAGDALENA TOMASZEWSKA BOLAŁEK, POLISH CULINARY PATHS

41 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ERNA POLAK

ZAGROBLA

ERNA POLAK (ZGUBA/ENRILO -

MONOGRAMM)

ARABIAN HORSES & ERNA POLAK W ritten and P hotography by: Erna Polak, www.ernapolak.com

English version: Erna Polak is an artistic project. The main idea behind it was to create a place where delight over the unique animals that the horses are could find somehow its outlet.

Undoubtedly, the horses have mastered my imagination, becoming a constant element of life, though sometimes put aside, somewhere in the background or postponed for more convenient moment. I do not think there is a horse-drawer, a horse-photographer or a painter who did not use to be a horserider himself or who would not spent a great part of his childhood in the stable.

These are Ludwik Maciąg's words but it is hard to disagree with them. I know dozens of similar stories that look like they were written with one hand. Horse lovers, in one way or another, try to express their passion, catching for a pen, a paintbrush or a camera, while some others swell the ranks of veterinarians. I got hooked by Polish Arab horses and it is going to stay this way. One can hardly expect something else to happen.

My family comes from the region of Podlachia (Podlasie) and our family stories reek of its atmosphere. Moreover, I believe that we are really lucky.

In Poland, and earlier on the polish eastern borderlines, the horses of this race were always believed to be the best and the most beautiful, intelligent, gentle and perfectly built. They are real Polish miracle.

Wersja Polska: Erna Polak jest projektem artystycznym.

Powstał on z myślą o stworzeniu miejsca gdzie zachwyt nad zwierzętami jakimi są konie może znaleźć swoje ujście.

Bez wątpienia konie opanowały moją wyobraźnię, stając się stałym elementem życia, choć czasem z boku, w tle lub odsunięte na inny czas. Nie ma chyba bowiem rysownika-koniarza, który nie byłby jednocześnie koniarzem-fotografem lub malarzem, tzn. sam nie byłby jeźdźcem, a wolne chwile w dzieciństwie nie spędzał w stajni. To słowa Ludwika Maciąga i trudno się z nimi nie zgodzić. Znam dziesiątki podobnych historii które wyglądają jakby były spisywane jedną ręką. Miłośnicy koni w taki lub inny sposób próbują tę swoją pasję, namiętność uzewnętrznić, jedni chwytają za pióro, inni za pędzel lub aparat fotograficzny, a jeszcze inni zasilają szeregi weterynarii. Ja zawiesiłam oko na polskim Arabie i tak już zostanie. Trudno zresztą by stało się inaczej. Moja rodzina pochodzi z Podlasia, a nasze domowe gawędy przesiąknięte są tutejszym klimatem.

Ponadto uważam, że jesteśmy wielkimi szczęściarzami.

W Polsce, a wcześniej na polskich kresach, przedstawiciele tej rasy zawsze uchodziły za najlepsze i najbardziej urodziwe, inteligentne, łagodne i o doskonałej budowie.

Są prawdziwym polskim cudem.

43 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY BY ERNA POLAK WIEŻA RÓŻ (WIEŻA BABEL/LAHEEB - EKSTERN), BR. MICHALOW STUD

44 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY BY ERNA POLAK PANONIA (PILAR/FAWOR - EUKALIPTUS), OW. JANOW PODLASKI STATE STUD

45 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY BY ERNA POLAK PEPITA (PEPESZA/EUKALIPTUS - EKSTERN), BR. JANOW PODLASKI STATE STUD (SOLD IN 2015 FOR 1.400.000 EURO)

46 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY BY ERNA POLAK BIRMINA (BINT ERMINA/KABSZTAD - HK KRYSTALL), BR./OW. BIAŁKA SO MAŁOPOLSKA HODOWLA ROŚLIN Z.O.O.

47 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY BY ERNA POLAK POGROM (PĘTLA/VISBADEN-QR MARC), BR./OW. JANOW PODLASKI STATE STUD

48 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

ARABIAN HORSES IN POLAND THE BEGINNING Polish-Arabian horses are well known and

At the beginning of the 19th century, the use of

appreciated all over the world. Currently, Polish

Arab s in Polish breeding took on a mass character.

breeders are the only ones who have a real chance

There were special expeditions organised to

of beating the Middle East studs in shows without

Bedouin tribes. Traders brought horses to Istanbul

losing the useful features of the horses. A horse

or Odessa and for the requests of the studs. Among

with a Polish pedigree can be proudly called "Pure

the most important breeders there were the

Polish" by the owner.

Branicki family in Biala Cerkiew in Ukraine, the

Horse breeding in Poland since the dawn has

Sanguszka family in Slavuta in Volhynia, Waclaw

taken the oriental direction, which lasted until the influx of English blood horses in the nineteenth century. In the 14th-17th centuries Poland conducted wars with Turkey and the Tatars.

Eastern horses were suitable for service in the vast borderland steppe areas. They were commonly bred in the south-eastern provinces.

Turkish troops at that time largely used original desert Arabian horses. It was customary for Muslims to use stallions in the army, so the Poles had many opportunities to recruit Arabian studs to their herds. The first documented record of

Rzewuski in Sawran in Podole, the Dzieduszycki family in Jarczowice and Jezupol in Lesser Poland.

Juliusz Dzieduszycki in 1845 brought 7 stallions and 3 mares - Mlecha, Sahara and Gazella from the desert to Jarczowiec. They were remarkable for their nobility and became the perfect embryonic material, giving birth to the three great female families.

In the interwar period (1918-1939), in Poland there were only two stallions and two mares, including Kewa from Szamrajówka, coming from

a purebred horse breeder concerns King

Białystok studs. Many valuable horses, born in

Sigismund Augustus (1520-1572). He kept a stud

famous Janów Podlaski, originate through Kewa

at Knyszyn near Bialystok. However, references

from the horses of Bialystok (and Biała Cerkiew)

to Arabian horses in the 16th and 17th centuries

studs.

do not allow us to determine the scale in which

Today the most famous Arabian horse breeding

they were used. The first authentic testimony

farms in Poland are located in Janów Podlaski,

that the original Arabians were brought to Poland

Michałów and Białka Stud.

is Roman Sanguszka's account of the expedition of an equerry named Kajetan Burski to Saudi

based on 'DWA WIEKI POLSKIEJ HODOWLI KONI

Arabia.

ARABSKICH (1778-1978) i jej sukcesy na świecie Państwowe Wydawnictwo Rolnicze i Leśne 1983

49 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

An Englishman in Poland – How I see things… for travel.lovepoland Owen Williams, blogger at lifeinpoland.org

People always ask me how I see Poland.

My answer; through my eyes, not down my nose. There are many misconceptions about Poland, stereotypes and myths held by people who have never visited. All of these, as I found out when I first came here six years ago, are dispelled as soon as you arrive. I did not have a negative view of Poland before coming here, but the place was unknown to me, just as it is to the majority of people from the West. Poland is not without its faults of course, but it’s a place which offers so much more than many foreigners realise. Just like a prawdziwek mushroom hidden in the woods, Poland is Central Europe’s hidden gem. It’s the best kept secret since babcia’s pierogi recipe. Poland is full of surprises for foreigners; it’s one of the things that appeals the most about the country to me- how undiscovered it is, and how unknown its delights are to most people from abroad.

Many foreigners have a similar experience to myself, that when living in a new country, you view things differently to how you viewed them at home.

50 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

Then I noticed the strawberries at the side of the road…amazing! The taste, the price, the quality; I loved it all. It’s something that I appreciate to this day; how there’s a readily available supply of good, healthy fruit and vege grown locally. Ok, occasionally I miss the diversity of produce on offer in London, but I know it’s better for the environment, and my biological system, to eat what’s fresh and in season where I am. This connection to nature and the seasons makes me appreciate life more. It’s just one of the things in Poland which gives me that feeling. The one thing I’d overlooked as much as I now appreciate, is the people here; Poland’s inhabitants’ hospitality is second to none. As with the country in general, came here not knowing what to expect from the local population, and got a great surprise. People have welcomed me here like in no other country.

Nowhere else have I been invited to a stranger’s house for an Easter feast, to the new neighbour’s house for a drink, or to the mountains with people I’ve just met. For me, Poland’s a land of surprises.

A land which is full of welcoming people and unknown treasures. I’m trying to spread the word about Poland and, like the natives, welcome others here to share the delights.

OWEN WILLIAMS LIFEINPOLAND.ORG

Also, it’s possible to see things that are perhaps overlooked by the locals: having a different perspective can create joy in places where the local population see banality. It can however, bring immense frustration with things which are just accepted without question by the natives.

Having lived here for half a decade, my perception and opinion has changed through the years. My feelings toward my adopted country have gone through their honeymoon period, the annoyance of settling down, the wonder at the beauty which I missed at first, the comfort of feeling experienced in a new place, the boredom of naively believing I had discovered everything in my new environment, the joy in realising there is still a cornucopia of things yet to see and learn here, the strange sensation of missing my adopted home when visiting my birthplace, and finally the humbling sensation of being welcomed and valued as a person, not a foreigner, in my new location. Back in February 2012, I drove my car, from London to Wrocław, for 21 hours straight, through snow, fog, ice and Germany. Spring soon came with a basket full of new surprises, making my experience of life in Poland blossom. I was shocked by the weather; no one had told me the ice would melt in Poland!

MONIKA STANISZEWSKA GRUS GRUS/ CRANES

MONIKA STANISZEWSKA CRANES My name is Monika Staniszewska.

Nature photography is my hobby.

Inspired by great photos, I decided to try my hand at it. Since then I spend every free moment surrounded by nature trying to capture its magical moments in the frame.

The photos presented are the result of long hours of waiting, in an ambush shelter, in mud, water, often risked with my own health.

Taking pictures of nature requires time, patience and dedication.

You need to be aware of the characteristics of the animals you want to show, then look for such composition, lighting and perspective, and spend as much time as needed to wait for these all items to occur together.

I invite you to watch my photos of cranes thanks to which you can enter a magic world that you cannot see every day…

CRANES by Monika Staniszewska

GRUS GRUS - CRANES

MONIKA STANISZEWSKA CRANES Cranes are birds of unique beauty. Tall, with an upright silhouette, with a small head on a long, slender neck. A red spot on the crane's head is the place where the skin is free of feathers. The dignity of the look is attributed to the long ends of the ailerons which, while the bird’s wings are folded, look like an ostrich-like, puffed tail.

The crane looks really dignified, especially when it is moving slowly, carefully placing its long legs.

A common crane (Latin: Grus grus) is doing really well in Poland. Timid and distrustful, it once opted for inaccessible, secluded marshes and bogs for its dens. It was hardly ever seen. Recently, however, it changed its behaviour – got used to the presence of people and even learned how to use the boon offered by the neighbourhood of human settlements. Thanks to it, its fate got better. In recent years it is not surprising to see cranes, preying on the farm fields.

To build a nest, they need only a scrap of a humid forest, or some bushes nearby the meadow.

Cranes are more frequent in north-eastern Poland, as well as in Great Poland.

To see and to photograph a crane’s dance is a treat for every photographer – naturalist. It is not easy though, it requires some persistence as the cranes are very shy and do not let people come to close to them.

54 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

Before their departure (in October or November) the flocks of cranes gather together on the places from which they would fly away, sometimes there are more than 2000 birds in a flock! At the flocking areas, the cranes, dancing and calling one another, match in pairs and fly away in group, until the end of autumn.

Wintering areas of cranes are located in western Europe – in France and on the Iberian Peninsula as well as in north-east Africa.

The biggest flocking areas in our country are located in the north of Poland. These could be Nietlickie Swamps in Masuria, Bielawskie Marshes near Wladyslawowo or the Lower Oder Valley (between Kostrzyn and Szczecin Lagoon).

Today, the size of the crane population does not raise any fears about its condition. However, it is good to follow the fate of this bird and devote more attention to it - not only because of its great beauty and spectacular mating habits.

visit !

MONIKA STANISZEWSKA

http://www.facebook.com/monika.staniszewska.1650

CRANES by Monika Staniszewska

CRANES by Monika Staniszewska

CRANESÂ by Monika Staniszewska

LEONARDO DA VINCI 19.05/2017-17.05/2020

KRAKÓW

NATIONAL MUSEUM

photo: National Museum, KRAKÓW

LEONARDO DA VINCI "LADY WITH AN ERMINE"

The painting was purchased ca. 1800 in Italy, by Adam Jerzy, the son of Princess Izabela Czartoryska, and donated to the Museum in Puławy where it was exhibited in the ‘Gothic House’ from 1809–1830.

In Puławy, it was erroneously considered to be a portrait alluding to the beloved mistress of King Francis I of France, referred to as the ‘Belle Ferronière’.

We now know that the subject of the portrait is Cecilia Gallerani (ca. 1473 - 1536), a reputed mistress of Lodovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, also known as ‘il Moro’ (the Moor). The ermine in the portrait commissioned by him is an allusion to Duke Sforza himself, who was also referred to as the White Ermine (Ermellino Bianco).

The portrait embodies the Renaissance idea of an image as an illusion of natural vitality. The artist managed to achieve this thanks to his knowledge of anatomy and his lighting skills, which enabled him to create a three dimensional human figure on the image plane.

By http://mnk.pl/exhibitions/leonardo-da-vinci-lady-with-an-ermine © 2017 NATIONAL MUSEUM IN KRAKOW 59 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

THE LEGEND OF LAJKONIK Once a year (in June), a Tatar raider haunts the streets of Kraków.

His colourful cortege attracts crowds of spectators who not only never try to repulse him, but even submit their necks and arms to the blows of his mace!

Lajkonik – also known as the Tartar rider or the hobby-horse of Kraków (or Zwierzyniec) is one of the main symbols of Kraków. Lajkonik’s cortege marching along the streets of the city represents a custom that has been practised for centuries on the first Thursday following Corpus Christi.

The legend itself dates back to the events of 1287. Tartar armies crept forward without being seen to arrive close by the city. Here they decided to spend the night in the bulrushes by the Vistula, close to the village of Zwierzyniec,

60 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

and to attack the city in the morning mists.

They were discovered there by craftsmen, locally known as włóczkowie, who without hesitation overpowered the sleeping army, thus saving the city from ruin and plunder.

They soon changed into Asian costume and rode into the city on the horses they had seized as trophy. They inspired all the city with fear, yet soon the townsfolk came to rejoice. On the same day the Mayor of Kraków announced that to commemorate the event, a raftsman dressed as the Tartar Khan will enter the city once a year, leading the cortege of Kraków włóczkowie.

Today, during the traditional procession from Zwierzyniec to the Main Market Square, Lajkonik deals out good luck blows with his mace.

Polish Traditions

Lajkonik's outfit photos http://www.mhk.pl/zbiory/lajkonik

Lajkonik outfit design: Stanisław Wyspiański design of the horse: Leonard Lepszy and Stanisław Cercha made by: Maria Kopińska 61 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

Polish Traditions

Lajkonik's outfit © photos http://www.mhk.pl/zbiory/lajkonik

Lajkonik outfit design: Stanisław Wyspiański design of the horse: Leonard Lepszy and Stanisław Cercha made by: Maria Kopińska

62 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

POCHÓD LAJKONIKA wersja Polska by © Muzeum Historyczne Miasta Krakowa Lajkonik i jego orszak od lat przemierzają przy dźwięku krakowskich melodii niezmienioną trasę. Pochód przygotowuje się w Muzeum Historycznego Miasta Krakowa i wyrusza w trasę zaczynając od siedziby Miejskiego Przedsiębiorstwa Wodociągów i Kanalizacji przy ul. Senatorskiej 1 kierując się do Rynku Głównego. Po drodze Lajkonik odwiedza kupców na placu Na Stawach i zbiera do koszyka drobne pieniądze jako haracz. Następnie składa wizytę siostrom Norbertankom, gdzie w pobliżu klasztoru rozegrała się legendarna bitwa flisaków z Tatarami. Następnie pochód kieruje się ulicami Kościuszki i Zwierzyniecką − Lajkonik odwiedza tam sklepy, uderza przechodniów buławą i zbiera haracz. Na skrzyżowaniu przy filharmonii wykonywany jest przez Lajkonika taniec z chorągwią. Pochód zmierza ulicami Franciszkańską i Grodzą w kierunku Rynku Głównego, gdzie na scenie przy Wieży Ratuszowej Lajkonik z prezydentem miasta wznosi toast za pomyślność krakowian. Na koniec Lajkonik wykonuje taniec zwany urbem salutare – pokłon miastu.

W 2014 roku tradycja pochodu Lajkonika, zwanego Konikiem zwierzynieckim, została wpisana na Krajową listę niematerialnego dziedzictwa kulturowego stworzoną przez Ministerstwo Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego. Jest ona podstawą, by ta krakowska tradycji mogła być umieszczona na liście światowej UNESCO, na której znajdują się zwyczaje i obrzędy z całego świata.

Ważną cechą dziedzictwa niematerialnego

jest pokoleniowy przekaz i stałe jego odtwarzanie. Tradycyjny pochód Lajkonika, który odbywa się co roku w Krakowie w oktawę Bożego Ciała, został uznany za niematerialne dziedzictwo Polski jako jedno z pierwszych pięciu zjawisk kulturowych.

Legenda głosi, że podczas trwającej procesji Bożego Ciała na przedmieściach średniowiecznego Krakowa doszło do najazdu Tatarów. Atak hordy odparli włóczkowie – krakowscy flisacy zamieszkujący podkrakowską wieś Zwierzyniec.

Po zwycięskiej potyczce przywódca włóczków przywdział strój chana i ruszył na zdobycznym koniu w kierunku miasta. Za nim podążali włóczkowie przebrani za Tatarów.

Wszyscy razem, głosząc nowinę o zwycięstwie, weszli w triumfalnym pochodzie na Rynek Główny, gdzie witał ich tłum krakowian. Orszak Lajkonika zgodnie z tradycją tworzą włóczkowie, Tatarzy i kapela „Mlaskoty”. Stroje, które przywdziewają są stylizowanymi ubiorami dawnych wojowników tatarskich oraz ludu i mieszczaństwa krakowskiego. Podczas pochodu kapela przygrywa skoczne melodie krakowskie. Już w połowie XIX wieku pochód Lajkonika był wydarzeniem powszechnie znanym i wpisanym w kalendarz dorocznych uroczystości miejskich. W okresie międzywojennym władze Krakowa wykorzystały postać Lajkonika do promocji miasta, został on wybrany jako symbol organizowanego od 1936 roku święta zwanego Dniami Krakowa.

63 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

photo: Chopin Museum, Warszawa

CHOPIN MUSEUM THE FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM IN WARSAW The Gniński Palace (Ordynacki Palace) tel.: (+48 22) 44 16 251, 252 e-mail: bilety.muzeum@nifc.pl Tickets booking Tuesday-Sunday 11.00 a.m. - 8.00 p.m. phone: (+48 22) 44 16 251, 252 e-mail: bilety.muzeum@nifc.pl

64 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

The music, smell and light – these are only some of the special effects, which are waiting to stimulate the visitors’ senses. Innovative approach to the subject of Chopin’s life and output wins recognition of both music lovers, historians and artists. The idea of the Museum is mainly the individual touring and experiencing Chopin. The Museum is specially designed to meet preferences of the visitors. Individual visiting root can be defined with the use of a special ticket using the RFID technology. The settings will be saved on a plastic card. It will allow, according to the chosen visiting profile, to explore the audiovisual level of the exhibition. Every profile will at the end be accessible in 8 languages. The exposition has been located on the 4 floors of the Ostrogski Palace, including the basement. On each of the floors the visitors will find various information about Chopin’s life, works, shown from the point of view of for example: Chopin’s Warszaw years or the Paris times.

Chopin's last piano, on which Fryderyk Chopin composed during the last two years of his life.

Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina, Warsaw [M/87].

Piano made by the firm of Ignace Pleyel, no. 14810, on which Fryderyk Chopin composed during the last two years of his life (1848–1849), with a dedication inside the case from Jane W. Stirling to Luiza Jędrzejewicz: ‘pour Louise’, 920x1290x2050 mm.

The exhibit can be seen in the room: Paris Salon

Gold pocket watch, presented to Fryderyk Chopin in Warsaw on 3 January 1820 by the Italian-born singer Angelica Catalani on the occasion and in memory of his concert.

Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina, Warsaw Inside the case an engraved dedication from Catalani to the nine-year-old composer: ‘Mme Catalani / à Fréderic [sic] Chopin / âgé de 10 [sic] Ans. / A Varsovie / le 3 Janvier 1820'. Jeweller's work [before 1820], diameter 53 mm, height 67 mm, kept in a leather pouch with gilt inscription: ‘International Watch Comp[an]y'.

The exhibit can be seen in the room: Warsaw

Chopin's caricature: "Chopin montant quatre à quatre l'escalier à Mme Marliani" by George Sand.

Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina, M/3141.

George Sand, Chopin montant quatre à quatre l'escalier à Mme Marliani (Chopin running upstairs by 4 stears to Mrs Marliani), 1842 - June 1844 (?), drawing, paper.

The exhibit can be seen in the room: Chopin's Paris Salon By http://chopin.museum/pl/collection/exhibits/id/238 © 2017 Chopin Museum 65 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

J A Z Z

J A M B O R E E

2 0 1 7

J A Z Z J A M B O R E E 2 0 1 7

The first Jazz Jamboree was organised

by Hot-Club Hybrydy. It was three days long (18 to 21 September 1958) and it was called “Jazz 58″. The first three editions of the festival took place in the student’s club Stodoła (with some of the concerts in Cracow).

Then the venue was changed to Filharmonia Narodowa, and since 1965 all editions have taken place in Sala Kongresowa in Palace of Culture and Science in Warsaw. The name “Jazz Jamboree” was invented by Leopold Tyrmand.

D A T E S

A N D

V E N U E S

2nd November @ 19:00 Studio Koncertowe Polskiego Radia im. Witolda Lutosławskiego Rob Mazurek & Jeff Parker & Artur Majewski Band Nels Cline „Lovers” & Mateusz Smoczyński Ensemble 3rd November @ 19:00 Studio Koncertowe Polskiego Radia im. Witolda Lutosławskiego Pimpono Ensemble, Adam Bałdych International Band, Bill Frisell Music for Strings Jenny Scheinman & Adam Bałdych grają kompozycje Karola Lipińskiego 66 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

4th November @ 19:00 Studio Koncertowe Polskiego Radia im. Witolda Lutosławskiego Kamil Piotrowicz Sextet Ex Eye ľ Colin Stetson Quartet Peter Evans Septet 5th November @ 18:00 SOHO Factory Gala Jazz Jamboree James Carter & Power of The Horns David Murray & Irek Wojtczak Quintet Bill Laswell & Kapela Ze Wsi Warszawa Bill Laswell i Dj Logic & Kaliber 44

C A M E R I M A G E

2 0 1 7

2 0 1 7

C A M E R I M A G E

2 5 T H

E D I T I O N

O F

I N T E R N A T I O N A L F E S T I V A L O F

O F

T H E

F I L M

T H E

A R T

C I N E M A T O G R A P H Y

1 1 - 1 8

N O V E M B E R

B Y D G O S Z C Z ,

2 0 1 7

P O L A N D

25th CAMERIMAGE - a great international feast of cinema Excellent movies, outstanding filmmakers, meetings, seminars, workshops Presentations of modern technologies and film equipment Remarkable documentary films and terrific music videos Exceptional atmosphere and unforgettable experience Unique tribute to the 10th muse

F E S T I V A L

L O C A T I O N S

Camerimage Festival Centre Opera Nova ul. Marszałka Focha 5, 85-070 Bydgoszcz The Festival Centre includes two screening rooms and rooms where seminars, presentations, Camerimage Market, press conferences and meetings with filmmakers are organized. The Festival Center is open for guests with festival entry cards.

The Gymnasium - Film Workshop Centre University of Economy, Gymnasium ul. Garbary 2, 85-229 Bydgoszcz, Building M During the Festival the gymnasium of the University of Economy turns into a real film studio, where world's most prominent filmmakers lead film workshops for accredited guests of the festival.

Multikino ul. Marszałka Focha 48, 85-070 Bydgoszcz Multikino multiplex theater in Bydgoszcz is the second venue for screenings and meetings with filmmakers.

MCK - Kino Orzeł City's Cultural Center ul. Marcinkowskiego 12-14 85-056 Bydgoszcz 67 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

CEIL WENDT JENSEN THE PEASANT AND THE PALACE
 GENEALOGY

68 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

AND

A

STORY

FROM

ROGALIN

CEIL WENDT JENSEN THE PEASANT AND THE PALACE

"Your great great grandfather, Michał Adamski, worked for a wealthy man in Poznań. He worked in his garden trimming trees and injured his eye. But it didn't stop him from learning to read the books loaned to him from the rich man's library" Katherine Wojtkowiak Topolewska.

The name of the village in Poland where James was born, and, possibly, where my great grandmother, Marianna Adamska Wojtkowiak, was baptized, too. Imagining a quaint village with wooden houses, I was dumbfounded when a Google search returned the photo of the palace of Rogalin.

I thought I misspelled the name of the village.

The second try returned the same image.

I was starting to like the idea that we had some connection to this stately home. Stories of the British series Upstairs Downstairs and Downton Abbey played in my mind.

Visions of past visits to Vanderbilt's Biltmore in Asheville, North Carolina and the Hearst Castle in San Simeon, California enticed me to do further research.

I jotted down these comments when I interviewed my Great Aunt Katherine at her cottage on Lake St. Clair, Ontario in 1972. I did not know, at the time, enough about Poland's history to make sense of her comments. Little did I know that my research would lead me to the Palace of Rogalin, the estate of Count Edward Raczyński. It took years of research, and a degree in Social Studies, to have the knowledge to identify the area in Poznań that the family hailed.

Since women from this time period left a limited paper trail, I focused on the Adamski men. A letter from a distant cousin stated that the head of the last branch of the family in Poznań, Jacob Adamski, arrived in Michigan in 1907. This lead to the 1925 United States naturalization documents for his son, James Stanley Adamski, which listed Rogalin as his place of birth. It was an electrifying moment.

69 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

CEIL WENDT JENSEN THE PEASANT AND THE PALACE

After reading the microfilmed parish records of św. Michała Archanioła via the local Family History Center, I confirmed this was our ancestral parish. Our records extended back to the 1745 birth of our 5th great grandfather, Jan Adamczak and paralleling the ownership of Rogalin by the Raczyński family. Heeding the biblical verse: "Take ye wives, and beget sons and daughters; and take wives for your sons, and give your daughters to husbands, that they may bear sons and daughters; that ye may be increased there, and not diminished" Jeremiah 29:6 Jan and his wife Zofia begot a long line of descendents: Jan (1769), Rafał (1805), Michał (1830), including our great grandmother, Marianna, baptized in 1865. The Adamski men wed women from the neighboring Garbarek, Jaskowiak, Sołtys, and Śmigaj families. At last tally, they have almost six hundred documented descendents here in the United States. I was able to arrange a trip to take my eighty-five year old mother to Poland to visit her parents' ancestral villages.

1830 12 September entry 63 - Birth of Baptism of Michał Adamski, parents Rafał and Zofia of Świątniki (baptism in Kórnik) (garden worker at Rogalin)

70 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

CEIL WENDT JENSEN HISTORY AND GENEALOGY

Our travel guide and researcher was Katarzyna Grycza of Discovering Roots in Poland. As a bilingual traveler, my mother, Elżbieta, enjoyed conversing with young and old. She was a foodie in paradise. She critiqued each plate of pierogi, bowl of czernina, and basket of bread. While we visited the parish and spent a day at the civil archives in Poznań, it became apparent I would need to return to do in-depth research. When Kasia's business partner, Łukasz Bielecki PhD, share a copy of Raczyński’s memoir with us reading the Count’s description his coach driver, uncle Jacob Adamski. This paragraph made me think that family history did not stop with the church and civil records, but could be gained from the manor books and palace ledgers.

I knew I would be returning. My second trip, six months later, had a developed research plan.

Accompanied by Kasia we would explore the holdings of the civil archives to see if materials available referenced workers and to revisit the Palace of Rogalin and meet with Mikołaj Pietraszak Dmowski archivist of Majątek Rogalin. We would travel the route of Count E. Raczyński, visiting the manor houses and farms once owned by the family. The catalog for the National Archives of Poland listed available resources including: Inventory of Rogalin Farm 1759; Kitchen Expenses 1775; Mortgage of Rogalin 1845; Bills and Budgets Rogalin, Jeżewo, Korzkowo 18841895; Reports, Incomes and Expenses from the Harvest 1891-1894. The most exciting book - and I am no accountant - was the Bills and Budgets from Rogalin. The 1889-1890 ledger listed the wages of the workers at the palace and the manor farm.

J.Adamski, referenced in Raczyński’s the book Rogalin i jego mieszkańcy, was listed as coachman.

The records written in Polish, were divided by costs for the farm, forest, distillery, palace, garden and retired people.

The 1889-1890 ledger listed the wages of the workers at the palace and the manor farm. J. Adamski, referenced in the book 'Rogalin i Jego mieszkańcy', was listed as coachman. The records written in Polish, were divided by costs for the farm, forest, distillery, palace, garden, and retired people. The wages, recorded as the yearly amount in marks as well as payments in wheat, rye, oats, peas, potatoes, salt, flax, sheep, wood and cows.

My great great grandfather Michael Adamski was listed as working in the garden and received 60 marks, 10 units of wheat, 3 units of rye, 2 units of oats,2 units of peas, 12 units of potatoes, 2 units of salt and 1 and 1/2 units of flax. His son, Jacob, received a better wage of 750 marks and more grain, but he didn't receive salt or flax. There were over ninety employees recorded with their position and wages including retirees Adamowa, Chrzanowska, Lewandowski, Madaj, Rychlewicz, Stechow, Świetlik, Szczęsny, and Szmania.

Rogalin's last owner, Edward Bernard Raczyński (Nałęcz coat of arms), lived from 1891-1993 and was an eminent diplomat and politician, Polish Ambassador to London, Foreign Minister, and President of the Republic of Poland in Exile. In addition to his career he wrote two memoirs, the aforementioned Rogalin i jego mieszkańcy and his ode to his mother Pani Róża. These are reminiscences of Róża Potocka Raczyńska (18491937), enriched with fragments of her notes and statements of family and friends.

Edward Raczyński died July 30, 1993, at his home in London and was the last male descendant of his line. His coffin rests in the mausoleum of his family located at the chapel in Rogalin. In his last will and testament, Count Raczyński bequeathed his family's palace in Rogalin, and his library, to the Polish nation.

71 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

CEIL WENDT JENSEN "ROGALIN I JEGO MIESZKAŃCY" ROGALIN'S INHABITANTS

He clearly documented what life was like at Rogalin under the Châtelaine Róża Potocka Raczyńska.

Translator Ola Heska provided excerpts from both books, and she first read them aloud in Polish and English at the To The Manor Born, Salon and Seminar, 2015.

72 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

Rogalin was a cultural center for about 150 years. Over the years, Rogalin hosted poet Adam Mickiewicz, Nobel Prize laureate Henryk Sienkiewicz, and painters Leon Wyczółkowski, and Jacek Malczewski. [My] Family lived in Rogalin only in the summer up to early fall. Although the Raczyńskis were neither farmers nor members of local societies, nevertheless they did not feel out of place among the neighbors – farmers from Rogalin, Swiątniki and Rogalinek. They greeted each other with mutual kindness. People did not wear traditional folk costumes at the end of the 19th century, with the exception of older men who sometimes wore dark navy coats for church. [My parents] Edward and Róża married in 1886.

Rogalin was in ruin but Róża took upon herself to invest in re-building the estate.

My mother was a remarkable person, almost perfect, owing it to an intensive, never-ending self-improvement. She distinguished herself with intelligence, consummate knowledge of people and things, with the knowledge of local and international affairs. She enjoyed the esteem of people whom she met during her long life. She was admired for her “manly mind”, energy and the ability for doing business. She loved her immediate family. She served them, nurtured them, protected from death and ruin. With the same passion she loved her Motherland. She considered sacrifices for the motherland a holy obligation and not subject to discussion. She was tough on herself and did not pay attention to her own personal comfort. Her grey foresighted eyes, with piercing and calm gaze had unusual power. Her hand, placed on a forehead of a nervously trembling person, brought back peace and the ability to sleep.

CEIL WENDT JENSEN "ROGALIN I JEGO MIESZKAŃCY" ROGALIN'S INHABITANTS

What she hasn’t learned as a young girl, studying in Krakow under the eye of the leading educators, she supplemented with extensive reading during the winter in the secluded mountain village of Zakopane. She knew the history of her country very well but also, as it was a custom back then, she knew the history of many palaces and of the larger and smaller manor houses. She was the only one to carefully rummage through the archive. She was competent in genealogy and had an unfailing memory. She saw everything without any illusion but also without prejudice. Mother was the pillar of our home and family, its finance minister and its advisor. Sometimes – a saviour from troubles of various sorts. Finally – a teacher of love for the Motherland and of the sense of duty. She wasn’t a particularly great matron of the house. She kept up with the bills and, knowing that father and the guests value 1830 12and September - Birth ofBut Baptism Michałinclined Adamski, good kitchen, hired good cooks. She was able to make an action plan put itentry into63effect. she of was parents Rafał and Zofia of Świątniki (baptism in Kórnik) (garden to take the executive power exclusively on herself, not trusting others and unable toworker either demand or teach disciat Rogalin) pline. Especially in case of the household. As a result, the domestics in Rogalin didn’t stand out by courtliness and mechanical efficiency. Rather, they were a part of the family in some way.

Besides the Szarzyński family, there was a pantry butler, my father’s personal servant, a lamp trimmer, a cook with a helper, mother’s maid, two “girls” at home, one in the kitchen and two in the laundry. The latter were hired from the neighboring villages for a season. We were guarded at night by one watchman with the last name Paluszkiewicz. In the garden bustled a gardener with a number of hired help. In the stable, we had two coachmen and a stable boy. Until World War I a few servants wore navy livery with silver buttons. After the war mother introduced black or dark suit coats.

As for those times, this number of staff was neither too small nor too excessive. My parents avoided exuding any show of great style. In addition, father saved on stables and the garden caring more about masterpieces produced by a human hand rather than about horses and flowers. Mother, as I mentioned, was able and did not like to have others do the work for her. She lived within the social norms of the previous century but nevertheless was not its slave to them. She proved this numerous times during her long life. Besides, she was aware that the social system in which we grew up was neither necessary nor the only one and that it would undergo changes. She instilled this awareness in me as well. So, during my times the house in Rogalin was an environment resembling an old Roman „familia” rather than a residence of an English lord. There was less courtliness, less discipline, but instead more of a genuine democracy. So, during my times the house in Rogalin was an environment resembling an old Roman „familia” rather than a residence of an English lord. There was less courtliness, less discipline, but instead more of a genuine democracy.

73 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

CEIL WENDT JENSEN

STEPS Over the course of the last twenty years I have helped families find their ancestral roots in Poland and explore their family ties to manorial estates.

Here are the steps to take to discover your history.

Use North American documents to identify the ancestral village in Poland. For ancestors who arrived during the highest immigration period (1870-1914) the documents to obtain include Census records, World War I and World War II draft registration cards, naturalisation records, and ship manifests.

FamilySearch.org is a free online database presented

by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

Once the ancestral village is know, look up the history of the village in the gazetteer Słownik geograficzny Królestwa Polskiego (The Geographical Dictionary of the Kingdom of Poland) which is a valuable source for geographical, historical, biographical, demographic, and economic information during the late 19th century.

Advance to searching the online catalog for the Polish State Archives at: www.searcharchives.pl Use keywords such as the name of the village and the name of the owner. Both the catalog and recently digitised records will be displayed. In most cases, you will need to write to the local archives and request copies of manorial records. The postal and email addresses are listed on the site. The Catalog of Palaces, Castles and Manors in Poland is a useful and informative website that includes an interactive map, which will help you find the neighbouring manors of your ancestral village: www.dwory-polskie.pl NOMADIC

74 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

|

24

16 airports around the country

AIRPORTS IN POLAND

Bydgoszcz Ignacy Jan Paderewski airport (BZG/EPBY) Czestochowa Rudniki Airport (CZW/EPCH) Gdansk Lech Walesa Airport (GDN/EPGD) Katowice International Airport (KTW/EPKT) Krakow John Paul II International Airport (KRK/EPKK) Lodz Wladyslaw Reymont Airport (LCJ/EPLL) Lublin Airport (LUZ/EPLB) Olsztyn Mazury Airport (SZY/EPSY) Poznan Lawica Airport (POZ/EPPO) Radom Airport (RDO/EPRA) Rzeszow Jasionka Airport (RZE/EPRZ) Szczecin Goleniow Airport (SZZ/EPSC) Warsaw Chopin Airport (WAW/EPWA) Warsaw Modlin Airport (WMI/EPMO) Wroclaw Copernicus Airport (WRO/EPWR) Zielona Gora Babimost Airport (IEG/EPZG)

75 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

a letter from Argentina

by Veronica

a letter from Argentina

by Veronica - Spanish and English version Era de tarde en la ciudad de Resistencia, Chaco, norte de Argentina, y yo, contaba en mi idioma español (con acento musical) como me enamoré de Polonia. Mi traductor polaco me escuchò tantas veces que, fue fácil para él transmitir con toda exactitud el sentimiento detrás de las palabras.

“De América solo me falta conocer parte de la Patagonia y la Antártida Argentina” dije, “pero fue el aire refinadamente puro de una peque; a aldea se llama Rolbik ubicada en el corazón de Kaszuby, rodeada por los bosques que es el que se impregnó en mi vida, acompañado de la ternura y franqueza de quienes me ofrecieron mojar mis pies en el rio que pasa detrás de su casa, como quien ofrece un tesoro de Malbork”, explique con emoción, “…desde los escenarios dorados de la tierra de Zalesie, hasta los pinares de Zakopane camino a Morskie Oko dejan claro que los cuentos de niños, no son cuentos, porque yo aseguro que vì troncos de árboles color plata” entonces, el polaco que me escuchaba, obvió mis sensibles descripciones y

76 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

pregunto: ”PORQUE VOS PENSAS QUE TE GUSTARIA VIVIR EN POLONIA?” y yo no dude, “porque para un polaco SÌ es SÌ y NO es NO. Porque cuando conocí Varsovia sentí que tanta belleza se restauró por la unión de voluntades ancestrales que siempre estuvieron vivas, a pesar de que la historia se empeñara en su desaparición…y sentí la fuerza poderosa del alma polaca. Porque no fue casual que yo estuviese en Varsovia a principios de agosto, Dios me llevó en esa fecha como una enseñanza espiritual: la identidad cultural polaca es la reserva moral de un continente entero. Porque camine Varsovia durante todo el día,Wilanòw…

Sobieski…Museo del Levantamiento… y cerrada la noche no quería ni podía dormir, fue entonces que me senté en los escalones de una librería de principios del siglo XX con el sonido de Chopin y pensé: los polacos están hechos de puro acero…”, el polaco que me escuchaba y mi traductor que me conoce tanto guardaron silencio, y yo, insistí en que son de acero, “…es que en algunos momentos de la historia, los polacos tuvieron que menguar, solo por un tiempo, para luego mostrar a todos que el acero también brilla…”.

Veronica

a letter from Argentina

by Veronica

a letter from Argentina

by Veronica -English version

One night in my home town Resistencia, which is the capital of the province of Chaco in the north of Argentina, I told one Polish guy, in Spanish with a melodious accent, how I fell in love with Poland. My interpreter, my husband, heard it for so many times that it was easy for him to translate with precision the feeling that hides behind the words...

"From America I'm just missing out on Patagonia and the Argentinian Antarctic," I said, "but it's an incredibly clean air of a little village called Rolbik, in the heart of Kashubia, surrounded by forests, is what I've been through and I will be trough all my life , It is the air, accompanied by the tenderness and sincerity of those who offered me to cool my feet in a river that flows behind the house with such a feeling as if they were offering to me the treasures of Malbork" I explained emotionally… "... the scenes from the gold-plated fields of grains in Zalesie in Kashubia to the spruce forests of Zakopane on the way to Morskie Oko clearly show that the legends written for children are not legends because I assure you that I saw the tree trunks of silver", then the Pole, who listened to me, ignored my emotional excitement and asked: WHY DO YOU THINK THAT

YOU WOULD LIKE TO LIVE IN POLAND and I did not hesitate, "because for the Pole YES means YES and NO means NO, because when I saw Warsaw I felt that such a beauty was rebuilt by the union of the will rooted in the ancestors, who are always alive despite the fact that history was trying to erase them ... and I felt the enormous strength of the Polish soul. Because it was not by chance that I was in Warsaw at the beginning of August, the Lord God took me there at the time as a spiritual lesson: Poles' cultural identity is a guardian of moral principles for the entire continent. Because I was wandering around Warsaw all days long, Wilanow…

Sobieski... Old Town... Tomb of the Unknown Soldier... Museum of the Warsaw Uprising... and I was going out at night when neither I wanted nor could I sleep I sat down on the stairs of one of the bookshops from the beginning of the twentieth century with Chopin music which sounded all around, and I thought: Poles are made of pure steel... " both my interlocutor, a Polish man and my translator, who knows me, stayed silent and I insisted that they are of steel " because in some moments the Poles were wiped off the map of the world to show everyone that steel was still shining…"

Veronica 77 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

PRZEMYSAW KRUK THE MAPLE ALLEY IN ZŁOTY POTOK

Złoty Potok

by Przemysław Kruk "Maple Alley in Złoty Potok in Poland is a really charming place. It is placed on “Jura” (land between Cracow and Czestochowa) among calcareous rocks and beautiful forests.

Formerly this road was frequented by horse chases. I fell in love with this place 8 years ago. Actually, I come here often during every autumn but I come across good conditions only once a 2, 3 maybe even 4 years. Maples lose their leafs truly quick and this is always race against time. Although when you “meet” the weather, colors, and fog, it becomes magical. Here I present to you several of my photos from this moment when everything went perfectly – time, light and weather".

Przemek Kruk, about myself: My adventure with landscape photography began many years ago, from working in the field. Thanks to it, I made money for my first camera - the Praktica MTL5B. History rolled around as years later I came back to the place where I earned 850 of eastern German marks - that is to the fields where I spend most of my time photographing, and it's the field landscapes that became my favourite subject.

Fascinated by the Kielce Landscape School, I became more and more courageous to go into unknown regions of my home region of Jura or not so distant Ponidzie. There I met cadres known from old photographs and albums. Years of observation made me aware of what is most important in this type of photography. I do not avoid staffage and elements of everyday life. I unrelentingly take photos of the last traditional harvesters and farmers working with horses on their small plots lost away from civilization. For a few years now I have been working with the Canon 5D Mark III which I usually connect with the Canon 100 - 400mm telephoto lens, as the focus in its latest version meets all my expectations and keeps my photos up to a high technical level.

all photos Przemysław Kruk www.foto-kruk.pl FB: www.facebook.com/PrzemyslawKrukPhotography

GALLERY ZŁOTY POTOK BY PRZEMYSŁAW KRUK

Złoty Potok by Przemysław Kruk

80 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY ZŁOTY POTOK BY PRZEMYSŁAW KRUK

Złoty Potok by Przemysław Kruk

81 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY ZŁOTY POTOK BY PRZEMYSŁAW KRUK

Złoty Potok by Przemysław Kruk

82 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

GALLERY ZŁOTY POTOK BY PRZEMYSŁAW KRUK

Złoty Potok by Przemysław Kruk

83 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

OLDÂ POLAND

TARNOPOL

84 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

TARNOPOL OUR NOSTALGIA PRIVATE PHOTO COLLECTION OF LOVEPOLAND.ORG

It was not its first destruction. Professor Stanisława Sławomir Nicieja writes in the first volume of his monograph "Borderland Atlantic.

History and mythology of the border towns ": Tarnopol has often suffered numerous disasters, burned down, its population was killed, its buildings and churches were blown up, the castle was plundered. The occupants changed. And yet it rose and solidified. It was rebuilt and got a blow again.

It was initially destroyed by the Tatars, Turks and Cossacks, and later by the Muscovites, the Swedes, the Germans, the Austrians, the Bolsheviks, the Banderivtsi. In 1918 the city was occupied by the Ukrainians (Tarnopol was not able to defend just like Lvov), and in 1920 by the Bolsheviks. The next raids, like God's pains, overcame the city with painful experiences.

85 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

AIGLATSON RUO

Tarnopol - the capital of the former Podolia - is one of the most miserable cities in the eastern Polish lands. Old Tarnopol is practically gone: it was destroyed during the Second World War and after it's completion.

The name of Tarnopol originates from the founder of the city - hetman Jan Amor Tarnowski.

It was him who on the shores of the Seret had built a castle to defend the Podols from the invasion of the Tatars, and later also the Turks and Cossacks.

So it was one of the border fortresses of the Republic of Poland. Tarnopol's defensive position contributed eventually to its downfall. During World War II, Germans turned the city into Festung Tarnopol. They defended the city until its final transformation into ruins and debris as a result of Soviet artillery fire and aerial bombardment.

86 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAD

It is worth noting that it was in Tarnopol that the largest monument of Marshal Józef Piłsudski was erected. The monumental equestrian statue of the Marshal stood on a huge pedestal flanked by two casts of legionnaires. It was designed by the native Tarnopolans: a sculptor Apolinary Głowiński and an architect engineer Wawrzyniec Dajczak. Immediately after the Soviet army entered the city in September 1939, the monument was strangled from the pedestal – they used a tank to do this, which pulled steel ropes tied around the figure.

As in every boundary city, many photographers worked in Tarnopol. Brunon Kaliszewski was the one who conducted his studio for the longest time: he started his business independently in the last decade of the nineteenth century and died in 1935. He was also a social worker - among others as the Treasurer of the. Kosciuszko Society. In his youth he lost his leg and almost entire adult life he had to move walking with the stick. He dressed up as a gentleman and was one of the distinctive characters of the city. He made tens of thousands of photographs, capturing the portraits of thousands of Tarnopol citizens. Many of these photographs are still true rarities and pearls for the collectors of old photography. Paradoxically, it may seem that there is no photo of Bruno Kaliszewski - we do not know what he looked like, his character is known only from descriptions. Is it a cruel joke of history or a master of photography had just some sort of trauma and did not want to stand himself in front of the lens? During the Second Republic of Poland, Tarnopol survived its last flourishing period - it was the capital of the voivodeship, with 17 counties with 1 million 600 thousand inhabitants. During the war, it was flooded with blood once again.

AIGLATSON RUO

In 1939 Tarnopol wrote a beautiful card in the history of defence war. It was one of those towns where the unfortunate order of Rydz-Śmigły was not followed. "Do not fight with the Soviets."

Soldiers of Tarnopol shot at the Soviet troops, among others. from the tower of the cathedral in the city. The neo-gothic cathedral miraculously avoided destruction during the firing of Festung Tarnopol in 1944. The Soviets bombed it only after the war to build a department store here. The decision was made after a visit of Nikita Khrushchev to the city, who asked the local party secretary, "Why is it still here?" Tarnopol's testimony of Polish patriotism and the attachment of its inhabitants to the homeland were repeatedly given. Professor Stanislaw Nicieja notes the case of two leaders of the Polish Military Organization in Tarnopol, who in May 1919 tried to organize a city defence against Ukrainians proclaiming the rise of the Western Ukrainian People's Republic. Both of them – a graduate of philosophy Jerzy Dmytrów and a photographer Rudolf Popiel - were arrested by the Ukrainians and brought to trial, which sentenced them to death. Dmytrów was a genetically semiUkrainian, a Greek Catholic.After reading the sentence Dmytrów was asked if he would like to say something in the last word. Yes, I have something to say. There was no Ukraine here and it will never be, "he declared with dignity. Set in front of the execution platoon, moments before death he managed to shout "May Poland live!" he bodies of the two heroes were buried in a common grave without coffins. Less than a month later, the Polish Army under the command of Colonel Mieczysław Linde liberated Tarnopol. At that time Popiel and Dmytrow's bodies were exhumed and then buried with military honours in the central part of the Mikuliniec cemetery.

YROTS ERUTAEF

PIOTR KOY BALTIC COAST

Baltic coast

by Piotr Koy My name is Piotr Koy. I discovered photography accidentally, but soon it absorbed me completely and after a few weeks I could not live without it. I started with concert and festival photos. As I live on the sea and I am surrounded by beautiful natural landscapes, the camera accompanies me all the time. I also discovered how beautiful the sunsets and sunrises are. The play of light, in a few moments changing the landscape, fascinates me. My worldview has changed.

I feel the best when I go taking photos before dawn, and then there is only me, nature and my Nikon. I do not mind even strong, bitter frost. My professional career allows me also to take pictures in many different parts of Poland.

Now, I am dreaming of traveling the world and discovering new places for photographing.

This region in north-western Poland with its 300 miles of Baltic coastline, the Pomeranian Lake District and the "Swisslike" Kaszubian District is among the most attractive tourist regions in the country. Its territory covers both the West Pomeranian Voivodship, with its capital Szczecin and the Pomeranian Voivodship having the capital of Gdansk.

The Kaszubian lands lay to the south-east of Gdansk and are inhabited today by more than 200,000 descendants of the Slav tribe, the "Kashubians", maintaining the traditions of their language and culture.

visit !

PIOTR KOY FB: www.facebook.com/PiotrKoyPhotography

G LALLELREYR YB AB LATLITCI CC O CA O SATS TB YB YP IPOI TORT RK O KY OY GA

Chłapowo

Chłapowo

Rzucewo Rzucewo

90 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY BALTIC COAST BY PIOTR KOY

Chłapowo

Mechelinki near Gdynia

92 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY BALTIC COAST BY PIOTR KOY

Gdydnia, Dar Pomorza

Mechelinki near Gdynia

93Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY BALTIC COAST BY PIOTR KOY

Gdynia Orłowo, clifs

Piotr Koy Gdynia Orłowo Gdynia Orłowo, clifs

94 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY BALTIC COAST BY PIOTR KOY

Gdynia, Port entrance

Piotr Koy Gdynia Gdynia Redłowo, wild beach Gdynia

95 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

GALLERY BALTIC COAST BY PIOTR KOY

Piotr Koy Rzucewo Rewa

96Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

SZCZECIN AND WEST POMERANIA - VISIT THE TOWN

SZCZECIN PHOTO PIOTR KOY

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

it vis

SZCZECIN http://www.szczecin.eu/en

Szczecin is located on the Oder, south of the Szczecin Lagoon and the Bay of Pomerania. The city is situated along the southwestern shore of Dąbie Lake, on both sides of the Oder and on several large islands between the western and eastern branches of the river. Szczecin is adjacent to the town of Police and is the urban centre of the Szczecin agglomeration, an extended metropolitan area that includes communities in the German states of Brandenburg and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern.

During the Nazi era, opposition groups and minorities were persecuted and treated as enemies. By the end of World War II Stettin's status was in doubt, and the Soviet occupation authorities at first appointed officials from the city's almost entirely German pre-war population. In July 1945, however, Polish authorities were permitted to take power. Stettin was renamed Szczecin and became part of the newly established the Polish People's Republic, and from 1989 the Republic of Poland. After the flight and expulsion of Germans from Poland during and after World War II and Polish settlement in the newly acquired territories, Szczecin became the administra-tive and industrial centre of Polish Western Pomerania. It is now the site of the University of Szczecin, Pome-ranian Medical University, Maritime University of Szczecin, West Pomeranian University of Technology, and Art Academy of Szczecin, and the see of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Szczecin-Kamień.

From 1999 onwards, Szczecin has served as the site of the headquarters of NATO's Multinational Corps Northeast.

In its post-war history, Szczecin was a leader of the labour movements which accelerated the radical political changes of 1989. The protests of December 1970, the strikes of August 1980, and other key events are commemorated by the Dialogue Centre Upheavals, the youngest branch of the National Museum in Szczecin.

In 2016, this underground museum (designed by Robert Konieczny of the KWK Promes studio) was recognised in an international competition as the Best Public Space in Europe. Another building nearby, the Philharmonic Hall, has also garnered worldwide acclaim.

98 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

VISIT SZCZECIN

SZCZECIN PHOTO PIOTR KOY

NICEZCZS

VISIT: Pomeranian Dukes' Castle It's a museum devoted to the history of this place: its construction and renovation. There are photograms of the castle from the pre-war period and photos taken just after the war. Archeological exhibits coming from excavations from the castle are also present in the museum. It is one of the few places in Poland where you can see original princely tombs which were discovered in the postwar work to secure Pomeranian Dukes' Castle from further disintegration. When you've passed the museum halls, you will get to the Big Gallery which is devoted to temporary exhibitions which are both museum and artistic. There are about 40 different temporary exhibitions each year presented in the Pomeranian Dukes' Castle. There have been also exhibitions of contemporary and ancient art, Festival of Polish Painting and Festival of Young Art "Przeciąg" since 2007.

VISIT: Chrobry Embankment The Chrobry Embankment, formerly Haken’s Terraces, one of the most beautiful places in Europe. From here you can watch the vast panorama of the Odra River and the harbour. The viewing terraces are 500 m long and are located 19 m above the Odra river bank.

The earliest written history of the area dates back to the sixteenth century. In 1873, a demolition of the eighteenth-century fortifications of Szczecin began. Thanks to the great commitment of Hermann Haken, High Mayor of Szczecin, in the years 1902-1905 a viewing terrace was formed on the site of Fort Leopold. Wide staircases run on both sides from the terrace to the banks of the river, where two pavilions were erected as the entrance to the restaurant, created contemporarily in the remains of the fortifications. At the bottom, there is a fountain decorated with figures of John of Kolno and Wyszak and two tall columns stylized as lighthouses.

BOCHNIA

DISCOVER THE OLDEST SALT MINE

UNESCO PLACE

100Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Bochnia, the story Salt mining in the area of Bochnia is a history dating back to 3,500 BC. The salt was obtained by evaporating it from brine. The beginning of the mine as a mining plant dates back to 1248. Being a royal enterprise, the mine brought enormous revenue. In 1368 King Kazimierz the Great issued a document called the Salt Works Statute.

It defined the organizational and legal rules governing the sale of salt. The oldest Bochnia mining shafts are the Sutoris and Gazaris shafts.

It is precisely the Bochnia mine and the Sutoris shaft that are connected with the legend of the ring of St. Kinga. The fifteenth and seventeenth century was a period of considerable development of the mine. During this period, further mine shafts of Regis, Bochneris and Campi were built.

After 1771 the mine was in the Austrian partition. By 1918, it was under the control of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

In the twentieth century there was a significant reduction in salt production due to its profitability.

In 1981 the mine was entered in the register of monuments. In the 90s of the twentieth century the mine started its tourism business activities which it conducts to the present day.

Bochnia Salt Mine, is the biggest treasure of Bochnia area, as thanks to the salt deposits, the city of Bochnia became one of the most important economic centres of medieval Lesser Poland.

With each passing century, the Salt Mine left a clear impact on the city's history; its urban, industrial and social development. It is in the Bochnia mines, where thanks to the modernization of the methods of salt extraction, innovative technical solutions were introduced. These included treadmills used as lifting machines, installed in 1930 and a steam engine produced in 1909 in Laura Hut in Chorzów.

101 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

BOCHNIA SALT MINE by © Bochnia Salt Mine for travel.lovePoland

Today the mine becomes a tourist centre,

During the day, the mine offers a three-hour

combining tradition with modernity. The

stay in Ważyn Chamber. It is a proposition of

Bochnia mining plant as the only one in Poland

spending time in an unusual environment and

has an underground crossing of boats. Wooden

at the same time atypical form of health

boats floating in flooded brine chamber are

prophylaxis. Bochnia Salt Mine is also an

registered in the Polish Register of Ships, just

extraordinary place appreciated by organizers

like the ships navigating the sea. The biggest

of many events and performances.

attractions of the mine include also: an underground railway ride, a 140 m downhill ride, a two-level mine, and an underground sports ground of almost 300m2. The main point of the mine is the Multimedia Exposition. Visiting the mine allows you to get acquainted with the methods of old mining techniques. The specific mood of raw dungeon seems to move the visitor into distant centuries. Old excavations - a real labyrinth under the city - provide also aesthetic impressions. There are four tourist routes in the Bochnia mine: the Basic Route with the Underground Multimedia Exposition, the Historical Route "The Old Mountain Expedition", the Nature Trail and the Trail of the Bochnia Miners Chapels, each of them differs in degree of difficulty. Night stays 250 metres underground are also organized as at this depth there is an absolutely unique microclimate. Iodine-infused air, silence and mysterious atmosphere are the uniqueness of this place.

102 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The extraordinary scenery and unique character of the Bochnia salt mines have been appreciated in the world by experts from the UNESCO World Heritage Committee. On 23 June 2013, a decision was made to enter the Bochnia Salt Mine into the prestigious UNESCO list.

visit !

BOCHNIA http://www.bochnia-mine.eu

BOCHNIA SALT MINE

a i n h c Bo e h t get trip

Bochnia Salt Mine Tourist Route

103 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

BOCHNIA SALT MINE

a i n h Boc e h t t ge trip 104 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Bochnia Salt Mine Tourist Route

hnia c o B visit o t how Bochnia Salt Mine Tourist Route Ul. Solna 2, 32-700 Bochnia Information and Reservations: Tourist Office tel. 0048 14 615 24 60 tel. 0048 14 615 24 62 biuro@kopalnia-bochnia.pl Website: http://bochnia-mine.eu/ Tourist Route is open every day. Check current hours.

Length of the route is around 2km plus a 140 metres downhill slide.

Tour takes about 2 hours.

The temperature inside is about 14° C and humidity is 70%.

The route is electrically illuminated.

The cave is suitable for people with physical disabilities.

Guided tours only.

We recommend comfortable, athletic shoes and warm clothing in the summer.

The mine tours for individual visitors are at specified times and do not require prior reservation.

In the case of organised group tours, is recommended to arrange in advance the time and date of the descent with the Tourism Service Office.

Groups without advance booking will only be accommodated if there is space.

Foreign speaking guides can be available with prior notice.

Smoking in the mine is strictly forbidden as well as the use of any open flame sources.

Audio guides are available for individual visitors with description of sites along the trail in the following languages: English, French, German and Italian.

105 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

YOU'RE INVITED

Polish kitchen RECIPES, TRADITIONS, INGREDIENTS BASED ON THE OLD RECIPES

Part 1 everyday Soups When cooking the broth, keep in mind that 3 cups of water should be taken on one soup plate, as almost half of water will boil away. After it is brought to boil several times, you should add the vegetables. All the froth should be left while the soup is boiling, after that the broth should be strained.

Delicate broth (good as illness remedy) Take half a chicken, 1/4 kg of veal and a tablespoon of fresh butter and pour 2 litres of cold water. Add 1 parsley, 1 carrot, 1 roast onion and cook 1 1/2 hours. Then sprinkle with cold water and set aside for 15 minutes. When it gets still, put on cooker once again and bring to boil.

Add salt after cooking.

107 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ÓSOR

The broth can be eaten as a separate dish or, properly prepared, as a basis for other soups. The taste and nutrition of every soup depends on the quality of the broth on which it is cooked. For soups containing meat, the broth should be cooked on meat and vegetables, such as carrots, parsley and celery; fish soups base on fish broth and the soups which do not contain meat should be cooked on vegetable broth, however then the vegetables should be taken in considerably large amount. The more meat in the soup and the longer it cooks the tastier and the more nutritious it becomes. To get a good broth for 4 people, use 3/4 kilo of meat To get clear broth, put the meat in cold water, and if the meat is to be served, then put it in boiling water, so it does not overcook.

Ł

ROSÓŁ - CHICKEN SOUP (BROTH)

Part 1 everyday Soups BARSZCZ - BORSCHT

Wash some beets in warm water, put them on fire without peeling and cook until soft. Once they are cooked, pour them out and immediately dip in cold water, for two minutes.

108 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

To peel them, it is enough to squeeze them gently in your hand and the peel will get off easily. Wash peeled beets with cool water and cut into fine strips or grate on the grater, put them into the broth, add some lemon juice to taste, a little sugar, and cook for 20 minutes.

Before serving, add some dill. The borsch is served with boiled potatoes topped with fried bacon. The more beets you use, the tastier the borsch is.

For 6 servings: 1/4 kilo of meat for broth, 1 kilo of beetroot, lemon juice, vegetables: parsley and carrots, 6 grains of pepper, 10 grains of allspice, green dill, 3 litres of water and salt.

ZCZSRAB

Borsch has a long tradition. In the Old Polish Encyclopaedia it was described this way: " The borsch was and is the most common and, when the spices added, the most authentic, truly Polish soup, accepted not only with contentment, but also respect. It comes in two sorts – with meat and in fast version; the first usually with dumplings, cooked with beet for its nutritious value or with pork loin, sausage, bacon and the second – clear or whitened with cream, with mushrooms, hearing, groats and dill.

Part 1 everyday Soups KAPUŚNIAK - SOUR CABBAGE SOUP

For 6 servings: 1 kg of meat, 1/2 kg of sauerkraut, onion, carrot, parsley, tablespoon of flour, 6 grains of pepper, 10 grains of allspice, 21/2 litre of water.

109 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Ś

UPAK

A kilo of pork or beef, boil with carrot and parsley for half an hour, add half a kilo of sauerkraut, one onion and cook with meat for 2 hours. Season with flour mixed with water and boil. It is served with potatoes topped with bacon.

KAIN

Kapusta kiszona (sauerkraut) is a very important ingredient in Polish cuisine, as well as in that of other countries in Central and Eastern Europe.

Sauerkraut is made of shredded cabbage, which after salting is subjected to fermentation, resulting in a particular sour taste. Cabbage soup is traditionally the soup of the end of winter. Once, it was a hard period in villagers’ life – the moment, when winter supplies end but there is still a lot of time to wait before a new harvest. Then, people used to take their deepest supplies. At this moment, in the basements, there were not many veggies left – besides potatoes, there was usually some cabbage, especially if it was pickled in time.

Today this tradition no longer matters, and cabbage soup has become a soup for the whole year.

Part 1 everyday Soups GROCHÓWKA - MILITARY PEA SOUP

110 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Ingredients (6 servings): ▪ 1 lbs split peas (green) ▪ 1/4 lbs smoked ham shredded or cubed (or any smoked meat like bacon; preferably pork) ▪ 3 large cloves garlic ▪ 1/2 tsp ground cumin ▪ 4 bay leaves ▪ 4 balls of allspice ▪ 2 carrots (whole, scrubbed) ▪ 1 parsnip (parsley root cut into 1/4″ slices) ▪ 2 celery stalks (cut into 1/4″ slices) ▪ 4 small potatoes (whole with skin, scrubbed) ▪ 4 tbs dried marjoram (split) ▪ salt ▪ freshly ground pepper

AKWÓHCORG

The soup is called “Grochówka” which means it’s made out of dried split pea and few more typical for Polish soups ingredients.

Polish Grochówka is associated with military food, where it still remains a popular dish. This is because pea soup is nutritious, filling, cheap and can be easily prepared in large quantities.

Military pea soup is said to have to be thick enough to put a spoon straight up in it.

The secret ingredient that makes Grochówka superior to its American version is herb called Marjoram. I recommend that you try my recipe especially if you have Christmas leftover ham or smoked bacon or other smoked meat. Like smoked pork neck bones. Smoky meat makes it extra tasty.

Part 1 everyday Soups POMIDOROWA - TOMATO SOUP

A kilo of beef dump with 3 litres of water, add carrots and parsley, necessarily one roasted onion and the other raw, some dill and cook for one hour.

Then add 3/4 kilo of whole tomatoes to the broth and cook for another half an hour. Take out the tomatoes, crumble, then pour back into the broth and boil. Before serving, put into the vase half a litre of cream, cooked rice and a handful of chopped dill. A soup made this way tastes like crayfish bisque. for 6 servings: 1 kilo of meat, 3/4 kilo o tomatoes , two onions, 1/2 litre of cream , one glass of rice, dill and salt.

111 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

AWORODIMOP

Tomato soup has become our national specialty and an inseparable part of traditional Polish dinner. According to the surveys, every third Pole says it is his favourite soup.

The popularity of tomato soup should not surprise anyone. Economical and easy to prepare, satisfies the feeling of hunger or long enough.

Not everyone knows, however, that eating soups, including tomato soup, can significantly help in the fight against unnecessary kilograms.

Part 1 everyday Soups OGÓRKOWA - SOUR CUCUMBER SOUP

112 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

for 6 servings: 1/2 kilo of potatoes, 2 cucumbers, half a litre of cucumber acid, 1/4 litre of cream, 1 tablespoon of flour and some salt.

Poles use dill pickles as an appetizers with many dishes. Polish dill pickles constitute a basic ingredient of cucumber soup and may be used as the addition to potatoes, sandwiches or as an ingredient of salads.

Tip: To keep the broth for a few days, remove the meat and vegetables and strain the soup through a napkin into some dish, cool it and store in a cold place without covering. To prevent it from getting sour, heat it and bring to boil every day.

PUOS REBMUCUC

Polish dill pickle – it is one of the great things in Polish cuisine. The name 'ogorki kiszone' is usually translated into English as 'dill pickles', but you can also call them 'sour cucumbers', since a strong, sour taste is characteristic of them.

Cucumber soup is a culinary tradition at Polish tables. Unique flavour and sour taste are not the only value of this soup. Pickled cucumbers are very healthy but of minimal caloric value, and in combination with vegetable broth (and vegetables alone) the soup provides not only beneficial probiotic bacteria but also vitamins.

For 2 litres of broth or water take 1/2 kilo of diced potatoes and cook. When the potatoes are cooked, peel 2 cucumber pickles, cut into cubes and put in soup, add acid from the cucumber jar.

Season with cream and flour and boil.

Part 1 everyday Soups OWOCOWA - FRUIT SOUP

For 6 servings you need: ¼ kilo of apples, ¼ kilo of pears or strawberries, ¼ kilo of cherries, ¼ litre odf cream, 1/8 kilo of sugar, one tablespoon of wheat flour, 3 cloves, cinnamon.

Blueberry version: Take berries, pour 1 1/2 litre of water and cook.

Strain after cooking, pour the soup back into the pan, add some cream whipped with flour, sugar, cinnamon; add a pinch of salt and bring to boil. Serve hot or cold. To serve four: 1/2 kg of berries, 1/4 liter of cream, 1/8 kg of sugar, a tablespoon of flour and cinnamon.

113 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

PUOS TIURF

Fruit soups are associated with holidays, childhood flavours and fresh fruit picked from trees or bushes. They can be eaten hot or chilled, with pasta or crunchy toasts. Fruit soups are really delicious dishes.

Take apples, cherries and pears (or strawberries), pour 2 litres of cold water, overcook, strain and add cinnamon, cloves, lemon zest and put on cooker. Whip 1/4 litre of cream with a tablespoon of wheat flour and 1/8 kilo of sugar. Pour it into soup and bring it to boil. Add a pinch of salt. It may be served both hot or chilled. The soup is served with finely cut noodles or toasts.

11.11.1918

Independence Day CELEBRATING

First Polish Cabinet with Jędrzej Morawiecki as a prime minister. Warszawa, 1918.

By 1939, the Republic had become "one of Europe's major powers".

114 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

National Independence Day is celebrated in Poland on 11 November to commemorate the anniversary of the restoration of Poland's sovereignty as the Second Polish Republic in 1918, after 123 years of partition by the Russian Empire, the Kingdom of Prussia and the Habsburg Empire.

The restoration of Poland's independence was gradual. The 11 November date chosen is the one on which Józef Piłsudski assumed control of Poland. The holiday was constituted in 1937 and was celebrated only twice before World War II. Crucial to restoring independence was the defeat in the war of all three of the occupying powers.

Russia was plunged into the confusion of revolution and civil war, Austria - Hungary disintegrated and went into decline, and the German Reich bowed to pressure from the forces of the Entente. For Poles, this was a unique opportunity to reclaim their independence. Following the defeat of the occupying forces, the Poles seized military and civil power, building the foundations of their future state. On October 28, 1918 the Polish Liquidation Commission was formed in Kraków.

The Commission seized power from the Austrians in Galicia and Cieszyn Silesia. On the nights of 6 and 7 November the Provisional Government of the People's Republic of Poland was formed in Lublin under the supervision of Ignacy Daszyński.

On 11 November 1918 – Józef Piłsudski was appointed Commander in Chief by the Regency Council and was entrusted with creating a national government for the restored Polish State.

2 9

B I E G

N I E P O D L E G Ł O Ś C I

2 9

B I E G

N I E P O D L E G Ł O Ś C I

Bieg Niepodległości odbędzie się 11 listopada 2017 r. w Warszawie.

Jest ostatnim i zarazem największym biegiem z cyklu Warszawskiej Triady Biegowej.

Stołeczne Centrum Sportu AKTYWNA WARSZAWA organizuje ten bieg, aby na sportowo uczcić wydarzenia związane z odzyskaniem przez Polskę Niepodległości.

Co roku bieg staruje w dniu 11 listopada o godz. 11:11. Biegacze mają do pokonania 10 km. Bieg Niepodległości to jeden z największych biegów ulicznych w Warszawie, liczyć będzie 18 tysięcy uczestników.

Zawodnicy ustawiają się na starcie w dwóch kolumnach – koszulce białej i czerwonej tworząc najdłuższa flagę Polski.

115 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND