Travel Love Poland Magazine – June 2021 by travel.lovePoland

JUNE - AUGUST 20 21 | VOL 1 | ISSUE 1 6 ISSN 2515-8503

travel.lovePoland

through the lens

Konik Polish koniks are widespread throughout the country. Due to their small height, gentle character, friendly attitude towards people and willingness to work, they are eagerly used by children as well as adults and popular in hippotherapy.

Text and photos: Marek Kalisiński

LOVEPOLAND.ORG

media partner witkacy theatre in Zakopane www.witkacy.pl

RENTRAP AIDEM

"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense" Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland. It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend, Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.

VOLUME 1 ISSUE 16

from the editor

Dear Readers, Summer came, beautiful and hot in Poland, but it was not an easy time to work on the next edition of the magazine. Some of you noticed that it appeared later than usual. This was probably due to the fact of the travel restrictions, we did not know how to approach the topic of travelling to our country. I know the arrival may be difficult for many, especially if you do not have vaccinations. However, we will show you a few beautiful places, hoping that there will come a time when traveling again will be associated with pleasure and not stress resulting from uncertainty and resurrections. We invite you to the Polish seaside to the beautiful Świnoujscie and to get to know old houses and palaces, mainly in Pomerania. We hope that the cooperation with Claudia will result in more interesting materials on this subject. As always, we recommend the photos and text of Marek Kalisiński, dedicated to Konik Polski. You should also go and discover Rytro in the photographs of Janusz Wańczyk. Of course, there are more beautiful photos in the Magazine - for example, photos of castles in the background of the Tatra Mountains made by Marcin, and for active recreation lovers, we encourage you to go on bicycle trips in the Beskid Sadecki. Artur Tomasz Tureczek Editor-in-Chief Travel.LovePoland

Contributors to this issue: Katy Carr, Patrycja Furca, Marek Kalisiński, M. Kościelniak, Marcin Nalepka, Konrad Rogoziński (Odkryj Beskid Sądecki), Kamila Rosińska, Claudia Schaffhausen, Grzegorz Ślęczek, Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolalek, Janusz Wańczyk. As always, our special BIG thanks to Kasia Śpiewankiewicz – graphic editor @britanniaweb.co.uk and Amber Acosta for your patience and support. Thank You. If you would like to support or cooperate with our magazine please contact us via: info@lovepoland.org

travel update: varoius travel restrictions. Please check before travel.

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND online magazine published by love Poland ltd Registered office address: 178 Mitcham Road, London, England, SW17 9NJ Company number 10956488 Company registered in England and Wales. British Library ISSN 2515-8503 Copyrights by love Poland ltd and/ or authors of photographs and texts as indicated. All photographs and texts are published under the exclusive permission granted to travel.lovePoland Magazine by their authors. Please do not copy or publish without authorisation. WWW. L O V E P O L A N D . O R G

the team

Artur, editor

Amber, proof reading

Kasia, technical editor

03 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

T R A V E L . L O V E P O L A N D

M A G A Z I N E

VOL 1 . ISSUE 1 6 JUNE - AUGUST 20 21

CONTENTS 2 8

5 0

The Konik Marek Kalisiński

Rytro Janusz Wańczyk

7 6

Castles and the Tatra Mountains Marcin Nalepka

8 8

Cycling in Małopolska by Odkryj Beskid Sądecki

1 1 6

Katy Carr Polish Roots - history and music

05 20 68 100 106 124 126 128 130

Świnoujście - looking for a fresh breeze Baltic Manors Discover Krutynia river Jan Kochanowski Museum Strawberries and Stories Kamila Rosińska Archives Kraków - The Market Square Chocolate Cake with Strawberries by M. Tomaszewska-Bolałek Visual Guide: Monasteries in Poland Cerkwie w Polsce południowo-wschodniej – Book Promo

Photo on the front cover: Marek Kalisiński

S U M M E R

by the sea

Ś W I N O U J Ś C I E

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Sea Side

looking for a fresh breeze ŚWINOUJŚCIE is situated in the Land of 44 Islands – it is the only place in Poland of such exceptional insular character. The Land consists of several dozens of islands and islets of which three are inhabited. Those are – Uznam, Wolin, Karsibór. Only small part of UZNAM island (‘Usedom’ in German) is Polish (41km2) whereas the remaining part belongs to Germany (383km2). WOLIN island is the biggest sea island in Poland (surface of 265km2) and apart from Świnoujście also Międzyzdroje, Wolin, Kamień Pomorski, and Dziwnów are located. The third inhabited island is KARSIBÓR (14km2). It was formed as a result of digging 7,5 long Piastowski Channel and cutting off the south-east part of the Uznam island which improved and shortened navigation to Szczecin. Insular character of Świnoujście, variety of landscapes and surrounding nature makes the stay here unique and unforgettable, no matter whether you opt for active rest or you prefer to focus on your health and beauty. Świnoujście offers you so much that you simply cannot be bored here. One visit could be enough to know the town, however, it is also enough to fall in love with it and wish to come back again.

source: www.swinoujscie.pl/en Swinoujscie

Location: latitude N 53° 54' longitude E 14° 14'

Świnoujście ranks among the most attractive destinations on the Polish seacoast. Located at the north-western end of Poland, is the only Polish city located on several dozen islands. It is demarcated by the Szczecin Lagoon from the south, the Baltic Sea from the north (the Bay of Pomerania), the German border from the west, and the Międzyzdroje Commune from the east. It is because of its extraordinary location that Świnoujście is a city of many faces – an important maritime economic centre (one of the four key ports in Poland) and a Naval base, but also a popular resort and tourist destination. Świnoujście holds the status of a Commune city, and is one of the largest towns in the Westpomeranian Region. It covers an area of 197.2 km2 and expands its area each year through the sand brought to the beach by sea currents. Although it is commonly said that the city lies on a land of 44 islands, only three of them are inhabited - Uznam, Wolin, and Karsibór. Uznam Island features an administration and services centre and a coastal district with tourist and health resort facilities. It is home to 80% of Świnoujście's population. What is interesting, only 40 km2 of the island belongs to Poland, while the remaining part, i.e. 380 km2 lies on the German side. Wolin, with an area of 265 km2, is Poland's largest island. It is separated from mainland by the Dziwna Straits, which forms the flood waters of the Cicha and Madejska Bays, the Kamieński Lagoon, and Wrzosowskie Lake. The part of Świnoujście located on Wolin Island (the districts of Warszów, Przytór-Łunowo, and Ognica) is an industrial quarter. It houses the largest factory connected

with the maritime economy and transport junctions, the ferry terminal connecting Poland and Scandinavia, and the railway and bus stations. Here the E-65 international road reaches the sea. The third inhabited island is Karsibór, with perfect conditions for agritourism, angling and water sports. In the northern part of the island the Karsiborska Kępa bird refuge was created. More than 180 hectares are home to about 140 species of birds, including very rare species. The only connection between the islands of Wolin and Uznam is constituted by two ferry crossings. Due to its location, Świnoujście boasts particularly favourable conditions for the development of the maritime economy and tourism. “Here begins Poland”, the residents say of their city. The sea-ferries terminal in Świnoujście provides continuous connections to Sweden and Denmark for passengers, cars, lorries, and railway cars. The terminal is an important link between Central and Southern Europe and Scandinavia. The western and south-western part of the city on Uznam Island borders Germany. Just a few years ago there were two border crossings, Świnoujście-Ahlbeck and ŚwinoujścieGarz. Polish accession to the Schengen Agreement, the lifting of passport control and the opening of both crossings to car and coach traffic, made the city even more accessible. A UBB train runs between Germany and the part of Świnoujście located on Uznam. On the German side of the island, 12 km from the city there is Heringsdorf Airport. Berlin is only 160 km away, the coast of Sweden just 175 km, and Denmark 150 km.

Every year in Świnoujście more and more vacationers, apart from lying on the beach choose to rest actively, for example: cycling, wander on numerous hiking trails and try out various forms of water sports. It is during the holiday time that we can do everything we miss during our everyday busy lives. Świnoujście is a perfect place for active rest. Not many places in Poland have such an interesting offer. Remarkable geographic location and varied forms of terrain make splendid

and the charming sunsets viewed from the terrace of your hotel or from your tent flap, will make your stay in Świnoujście an unforgettable experience. Therapeutic health treatment is centred in the seaside district of Świnoujście, and it is conducted within fourteen sanatoriums. The health resorts of Świnoujście specialise in treating endocrinology, cardiology and dermatology related diseases, as well as hearing, respiratory and spinal disorders

ŚWINOUJŚCIE’S UNIQUE NATURAL VALUES ONCE MADE IT THE MOST POPULAR RESORT IN OUR PART OF EUROPE. conditions for different forms of tourism, sports and recreation. Sea waters of Pomeranian Gulf, inland basin of the Szczecin Lagoon, overflow area of the Stara Świna River surrounded by forests, lakes, islets, beaches, flat forest ducts, high moraine hills, fauna and flora of the nearby nature reserves and the Wolin National Park – the following pages will give you an idea how to make use of those resources to the biggest extend. Świnoujście's unique natural values once made it the most popular resort in our part of Europe. Today, its extensive moors and salt springs, and its modern treatment facilities run by professional staff who ensure top quality service, are highly appreciated by visitors from Poland and abroad. The mild seaside micro-climate, sunny weather, breathtaking landscape, clear and balsamic air that can be enjoyed during pleasurable, relaxing walks, wonderful cycling and kayaking,

There is also a growing number of hotels and recreation centres, which provide a wide variety of biological regeneration services, using modern equipment and cosmetic products sourced from renowned companies. In Świnoujście, you will not only be cured, but you will also regain your strength and energy. In the recent years, with the efforts of self government and financial aid from the European Union, Świnoujście has created perfect conditions for cycling tourism. Currently, there are over twelve kilometere-long cycling lanes in the territorially limited by the Świna River and the state border left hand bank part of the city itself. The cycling lanes connect most important parts of the health resort – that is the city center, the harbor, the seaboard district and the border crossings to German towns of Ahlbeck and Garz. 07 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Additionally, there are over one hundred kilometers of cycling lanes marked in a very clear way and according to international standards. Moreover, excellent bicycle infrastructure of German part of the Uznam island is located in the vicinity. All those aspects make it possible to adjust bicycle excursions precisely to your interests, free time, as well as individual conditions and abilities. The natural, historical and modern features of Świnoujście can be explored by taking a walk along the paths marked up in the Isles of Usedom and Wolin. Walking tours along the seaside promenades in Świnoujście, and in the neighbouring German Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf and Bansin, will certainly be a pleasurable experience. The picturesque sea location, the scent of sand-dune plants or the ambience of the innumerable seaside cafeterias provide a sufficient incentive. A tour around the seaside districts can also be viewed as an inspiring time travel to the turn of the 19th Century which marked the flourishing of treatment services, and the rapid development of the Usedom resorts that were frequently visited by the political, intellectual and cultural elites. Indeed, in these times, the Isle of Usedom hosted such prominent figures as Emperor William II, L. Tolstoy, M. Gorki, the Mann brothers and J. Strauss.

This was also when an eclectic and elegant architectural style, specific to health resort centres, was developed, the so-called 'Kaiser architecture'. Despite the severe bombing campaign experienced by Świnoujście, then controlled by Germans, on the last days of the World War II, some of the monumental buildings reflecting this ornamental style (which is comprised of decorative elevations, columns, spires and loggias), have fortunately survived. They can be now admired in Ahlbeck and Heringsdorf. We truly encourage you to take a walk around the marked tourist trails in the Isles of Usedom and Wolin. Surrounded by water and situated at the contact point of the circulating land and sea breezes, Świnoujście provides wonderful conditions for practising windsurfing and kitesurfing. The Usedom beach near the windmill, and the Warszów district beach (in the Isle of Wolin), both referred to as “spots” in the surfing jargon, have invariably enjoyed a growing popularity among Polish surfers. The best surfing conditions are created by northern, north-eastern and north-western winds. Southern winds, on the other hand, favour Szczecińskie Lake. 09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The opening of borders for car traffic in the Isle of Usedom has considerably facilitated the access to water areas in the German part of the Isle, such as the one in the village of Kamminke, located near Świnoujście. These areas are suitable to practice both windsurfing and kite-surfing. The relatively shallow water surrounding Świnoujście, and the wide beach are recommended by professional instructors as making Świnoujście the safest place to learn kite-surfing. What is more, the vicinity of other near-by “spots” gives an opportunity to continue training when wind conditions change. Świnoujście is considered a real fisherman's heaven. The local waters are home to innumerable species of freshwater, migratory and sea fish. This is where impressive specimens of sanders, breams and pike fish can be caught, especially in June and October., while the period from Spring to Autumn is best for perch and roach fishing. Indeed, 4-5 kg of these two species can be caught within as little as one hour. Eels floating down the Oder river basin are also frequently encountered at this time. Perches and burbots dominate at the turn of Autumn, together with flounders and plaices. You may also come across royal salmons and migratory Salmo trout, weighing up to 20 kg.

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The Land of 44 Islands is a real paradise for the lovers of Nordic walking. The wide several-kilometres-long beaches in the Isle of Usedom, on both the Polish and German sides of the border, are undoubtedly the most suitable venue to practise this sport. The huge Spa Park, located between the Seaside District and the city centre, also encourages you to take a long walk, even in windy weather. While in the park, you will have a wonderful opportunity to explore Nature, including seeing a number of rare trees and shrubs. The forest area, connected with the forest growing in the German part of Usedom, constitutes another exceptional location to practice Nordic walking. Indeed, a while back, two running and walking paths were marked up in the forest at Moniuszki Street. These are intended for all of course, not just for Nordic walkers alone. In addition, by taking the seaside path along the Isle of Wolin, or the cycling lane R-10 that leads through the forest, you can reach the neighbouring city of Międzyzdroje. The geographic location of Świnoujście, combined with the diversity and attractiveness of the local water areas, creates exceptional conditions for sea and inland sailing. Experienced sailors, willing to explore open water areas, can sail out from Świnoujście to the Baltic Sea. Szczecińskie Lake connects the surrounding Polish and German ports and marinas, while the Stara Świna lakes and pools are ideal training venues for less advances sailors. Located at a short distance from Germany and Scandinavia, Świnoujście provides a myriad of opportunities for Polish sailors, and is an inviting port for German and Scandinavian ones. Our modern yacht port in Świnoujście can accommodate approximately 350 vessels. This is the largest one on the Polish coast within the Northern region (53°54′48″N 14°16′8″E). (http://www.osir.swinoujscie.pl/obiekty-sportowe/portjachtowy/opis). Sheltered from open water, the yacht port is situated in the north-east of the city, on the Isle of Usedom, in the vicinity of the Spa Park and the 19th Century fortifications. In addition, it is only a short distance from the city centre. The high standards of service in this yacht port have been confirmed by the awarding of the prestigious international quality sign, referred to as the Blue Flag. Each summer, Świnoujście hosts a number of regatta, which attract dozens of participants. The more important events include the 'Days of the Sea Regatta', the 'Tourist Regatta' and the 'Unity Line Regatta'. Larger vessels can also be seen during the annual sailing event, known as 'Sail Świnoujście', which takes place in August. A cruise on a sailing ship is an inimitable opportunity for all landlubbers to experience a fascinating sea adventure. The spread sun-bleached sails, the drifting vessels and crews working hard onboard, create an unforgettable image that will be frequently recalled by tourists long after they leave Świnoujście.

Sunset. Świnoujście Beach

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TOP 6 IN ŚWINOUJŚCIE 01

The Maritim Fishing Museum The former Town Hall, the oldest building in town (project from 1792, built 1804 – 1806), today housing the Museum of the Deep Sea Fishing; exhibits include the history of sea fishing, sea animals, the town and its region, and old navigation equipment; also a place of numerous occasional exhibitions. Address: 1 Plac Rybaka Street

Put into service in 1857, highest on the Baltic Sea – 68m, one of the highest in Europe, 308 stairs to an observation deck, sea rescue and lighthouse exhibition. Opening hours: March-June and SeptemberOctober daily from 10am-6pm July-August daily from 10am-8pm November-February daily 10am-4pm

A Prussian construction erected between 1854 – 1858; initially under the name of “Werk III”, which was subsequently changed into The Fort of Angel due to a striking resemblance to the Roman Mausoleum of the Emperor Hadrian; the construction is a three level rotunda, topped with a terrace and the observation tower. Address: Jachtowa Street

The Lighthouse

The Angel's Fort

Underground city The longest underground tourist route in northern Poland! The complex of bunkers and tunnels, built in the first half of the 20th century. During World War II, the building served as a coastal defense battery, and after the war – a Command Post for the Polish Army Command. The structure is located in the forest between the ŚwinoujściePrzytór railway station and the beach.

The Christ the King Church The 18th century Christ the King Church – erected on the site of a gothic temple; a wooden ship replica is in the main nave, called „vergissmannicht“, what means “don’t forget”; from June to September every Sunday a place of the International Music Festival “Organ Nights” Address: 1 Plac Kościelny Street

Breakwaters From the early nineteenth century, the western together with the "Stawa Młyny" navigation sign in the shape of the windmill, the central - with a length of over 1400 meters into the depths ot the sea (the longest stone pier in Europe).

ŚWINOUJŚCIE "As the staff of the Tourist Information, we are willing to provide you with any assistance and good advice that you request. We will also be happy to answer all your questions at any time, and we will recommend you places worth seeing. Moreover, we will show you the local tourist trails. Feel free to come visit us at the Tourist Information, located in the city centre, near the museum and ferry crossing". It is our hope that when leaving Świnoujście, you will say “See you soon”. The Tourist Information Centre will provide you with free information materials regarding the City of Świnoujście. Tourist Information 6/1 Plac Słowiański 72-600 Świnoujście Latitude 53.90790°N Longitude 14.25020°E Work hours: Monday - Friday: 9am-5pm Saturday: 10am-2pm

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“HERE BEGINS POLAND” Every year in Świnoujście more and more vacationers, apart from lying on the beach choose to rest actively, for example: cycling, wander on numerous hiking trails and try out various forms of water sports.

airports: Airport Szczecin - Goleniów Airport Heringsdorf/Usedom Airport Berlin 13 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Recommended Book: "The Polish Table" "The Polish Table" has two nominations in Gourmand World Cookbook Awards ( in categories: EMBASSIES (culinary diplomacy) and FOOD TOURISM BOOKS). The Gourmand World Cookbook Awards were founded in year 1995. Every year, they honour the best food and wine books and are often compared by journalists to the "Oscars". The book is co-financed by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland in the competition ‘Public Diplomacy 2020 – A New Dimension’ and the partners of the publication are the Polish Vodka Association, the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Toruń Gingerbread, branch of the District Museum in Toruń and Hanami.

Link: www.bunkatura.pl/the-polish-table photo: fotolupa

Get your free e-book: Free, beautiful and tasty download: The Polish Table by Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek The Polish Table - www.bunkatura.pl/the-polish-table Mesa Polaca - www.bunkatura.pl/mesa-polaca photo: emicristea

photo: martin-dm

STAY

REST

ENJOY

NATURE

CHATA LEONA GORLICE LOW BESKID Chata Leona (Leon's Hut) is located in the heart of the

picturesque Low Beskid, on the outskirts of Gorlice. It is

cemeteries

an ideal place for a family holiday or a weekend with

mountain

friends - especially for the lovers of relaxation in cosy,

wandering, savouring every moment, and observing wild

wooden interiors. The excellent location of the facility

nature

provides quick access to the most popular attractions of

Chata Leona has 5 double bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a

the

Lake

large kitchen, a shared lounge and dining area, a large

Klimkówka or Regietów, where the largest Hucul horse

private covered terrace and a sunny patio with access

stud

frequented

to the garden. Here you can find peace and relaxation

hiking and cycling routes. Picturesque surroundings are

in the privacy of nature, among trees and flowers. Just 2

full of Lemko accents. The area is rich in ski slopes for

km from Gorlice, a city with many attractions such as a

lovers of winter madness.

cycling

While wandering through the lands of the Low Beskids,

cinema, bowling and numerous bars and restaurants.

Beskid,

such

Europe

the

Magura

located,

and

National

the

most

Park,

impossible

not

scattered

peaks.

town,

indoor

notice

across a

the

perfect

and

the

numerous

Beskid place

outdoor

villages for

war and

unhurried

swimming

pools,

Reservations and inquiries can be made via Facebook @chataleona or email: ChataLeonaGorlice@gmail.com We look forward to welcoming you! 19 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

BEAUTIFUL BALTIC BAY AREA WITH HINTERLAND

prepared with cooperation of Claudia Schaffhausen Marketing und Öffentlichkeitsarbeit Projektleitung Baltic Manors

www.baltic-manors.eu www.mein-urlaub-im-schloss.de kontakt@mein-urlaub-im-schloss.de Like us: www.facebook.com/travelbalticmanors Follow us! www.instagram.com/balticmanors

20 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Manor Houses in Northern Kashubia Manors on Northern Kashubia are still not well known touristic attraction of region. Latest researches shows that in this area there are 200 manors. Only in the region of Wejherowo (Neustadt) were 100 manors. Near Puck (Putzig) and Lębork (Lauenburg) were 56 and 60 manors. The high number of manors in this region showed the wealth of their owners and also it was a sign of present Pomeranian noble families with polish and German roots. The variety of the Kashubian manor houses is enormously. Same is the todays usage. The range is from luxury restored 5 star hotel to a simple bed & breakfast. But still a lot of the Kashubian manors are in very bad condition which is painfully especially for people who are loving history and architecture. After some manors only ruins remained, traces on maps, pictures in families or national archives.

Where to visit From some manors which were renovated worth seeing mansions are connected with cultural activities great example of new life in old place is palace in Wejherowo which is museum of Pomeranian-Kashubian music and literature, similar role has Manor in Rumia (Ruhmel)(polish name Dworek pod lipami) and in Gościcino (Gossentin) (Dworek drzewiarza) which are community centers. Most of manors are year-round well prosperity hotels and restaurants in: Ciekocinek (Zackenzin), Godętowo (Goddentow), Kłanino (Klanin), Lisewo (Lissau), Rekowo Górne (Reckow), Rzucewo (Rutzau). In some of manors we can find agrotourism farms for example in: Borkowo Lęborskie (Borkow), Gościcino (Gossentin), Jackowo (Jatzkow) and Kurowo (Kurow). Besides, tourists can choose very attractive offers in manors in Salino (Saulin) and Żarnowiec (Zarnowitz). The rich and green region at the Gdansk Bay is one of the most popular touristic destinations in Poland. Which is not a surprise, because the link between the seaside and the forests and fields, picturesque little towns and villages with historic Mansions and Manor Houses are very attractive. This area combines the advantages of sunbathing, watersports and active holiday with the joy of cultural and historical attractions. The Hel Peninsula is unique in European scale and offers pine forests, sand dunes and a diverse fauna. Puck is a charming small town by the sea, close by starts the Pomeranian Cistercian Trail and many small villages with typical local architecture. The Kashubian Jerusalem – the third oldest calvary in Poland is located in Wejherowo, along with the famous castle.

The German family von Keyserlingk built Wejherowo (Neustadt) around 1800. In 1945 they, like most Germans in North Kashubia, fled the impending Red Army. After the war, the manor house was used as Citizens’ Militia station, school and kindergarten for deaf children. Following the reforms of the 1990's it became part of the Museum of Kashubian-Pomeranian Literature and Music. The variety of the Kashubian manor houses is enormously. Same is the todays usage. The range is from luxury restored 5 star hotel to nice and simple holiday apartments.

Manor Houses in Parseta River Basin The river Parseta is around 130km long and is located in the region of Western Poland. It springs in a place called Parsęcko and meanders north to Kołobrzeg where it flows into the Baltic Sea. It flows through riparian forests, meadows and peat bogs. The Parseta River Basin there is a special habitat protection zone . The Natura 2000 “Dorzecze Parsęty” area is located within the districts of Białogard, Kołobrzeg, Koszalin, Szczecinek, and Świdwin. It encompasses the areas of the Drawsko Lakeland, through the Łobez Upland, the Gryfice Plain, the Białogard Plain, to the Slovincian Coast. The Parsęta River is the main axis of the region, along with the valleys of its tributaries, such as Pysznica, Pokrzywnica with Młynówka, Topiel, Mogilica, Bukowa, Dębnica with Wogra and Lubatówka, Perznica with Łozica, Chwalimka, Kłuda, and Żegnica. The southern border of the area is marked with the sources of the Parsęta River near Parsęcko, about 7km to the north west from Szczecinek, while the northern border demarcates the neighbourhood of Kołobrzeg and the coast of the Baltic Sea, to which the river flows.This very diverse area is worth visiting not only because of natural values. It can be admired from a kayak, but a part of river sections is navigable only for experienced canoeists. One can also mount a bike and go along the “Wzdłuż rzeki Parsęty” trail. On the route, there are castles, Slavonic fortified towns, humpbacked bridges made of brick and stone, old mills, old hydro-technical systems (hydraulic rams), and chapels to be seen.

21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

oknicokeiC ,ecalaP exuleD tnemtrapA kesuR naJ :otohP ,oninalK

This region in Western Poland used to be Prussian (German) and the former landowners built a lot of Manor houses as a residential house for the large agricultural estates. In its present form, manors in the area of the Parsęta basin meet several functions.A lot of them are ruins and are still in the process of decay. Some have been restored and have nice hotel facilities nowadays. Some are schools, social welfare houses or training facilities or offer private apartments. If you are traveling from the West to this region, you may stay in beautiful Palace of Ryman, a hotel and restaurant, near Gryfice. The Manor house in Bukówko, now a private hotel facility run by the former teachers, who taught here, when the house was used as a school after world war two. Palace in Karlino, after the Second World War, the building became an agricultural base and now it is under renovation and it will perform as a hotel. Pałac Nosowo (Schloss Nassow) was built in neo-Renaissance architecture by the patrician family of the Holkens from Kołobrzeg in 1850. After that the estate was held by several other families like von Münchow, the von Heydebreck and von Sprenger families until 1945. Now the Pałac Nosowo, which is located in a nice woody area in Koszalin County, offers hotels rooms and halls for weddings and photo: Kasia and Igor at the set of the music video "Zoriuszka" celebrations. Kozia Góra (Gutshaus of the Sound of Triglav project. Cosesec) was built by Heinrich Friedrich von Podewils in Baroque style and a large park. 22 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

By the end of 19th century the palace was rebuilt in a neo-gothic style, which was so modish at that time. Decorative galleries, towers and balconies appeared. The south facade is the richest one, there are knights’ sculptures as well as heraldic cartouches. The volume (cubature) of the palace amounting over 7800 m2 proves its grandeur. At present the palace is in a state of renovation, which shall lead to arising of an exclusive hotel. But it already hosted some concerts and festives. The palaces and manors (pałac and dwór) are part of the cultural heritage in this region, that are still at the beginning of the development and promise a secret treasure soon to be discovered. In Siemczynie there is a Baroque palace, built between 1722 ans 1726 by Berndt von der Goltz as the center of a large agricultural estate with a park and farm buildings. The attraction in the park is the alley with hornbeam trees. Today it is still under re-construction, the palace itself hosts two exhibitions, one on the Baroque period and one the agricultural and peasant life of the days. Opposite the Palace is a hotel with restaurant, which offers lively cultural events for visitors and local people. The Baltic Sea beaches, the Odra River basin, the picturesque Sudety Mountains, bustling metropolises – Wrocław, Poznań and Szczecin, and numerous historical towns determine the tourist attractiveness of Western Poland. Throughout the Parsęta basin there are cycling and canoeing routes, rivers Radew, Parsęta and other smaller ones, some lead through the woods and meadows, others will lead to the Baltic Coast. Trips and horse trips are organized. If you visit Western Poland, you will soon appreciate the cultural, natural and spa assets of this region. Heritage attractions is the Centennial Hall in Wrocław and the Churches of Peace in Jawor and Świdnica, as well as to outstanding works of wooden architecture. Let yourself get lost in one of the numerous historical towns, which will fascinate you with their monuments and ingenious and well-organised events. Solace for your body you will find in well-known health resorts–Lądek-Zdrój, Polanica-Zdrój, Międzyzdroje, Kołobrzeg and Połczyn-Zdrój.

photos:

1. Wejcherowo Palace 2. Apartment Palace, Ciekocinko 3. Parseta - sleeping beauty 23 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Vintage houses and farm buildings in the Vistula Żuławy The Vistula Żuławy region is a completely flat area with picturesque landscapes, rich in many tourist attractions, including i.a. wonderful houses and farm buildings of Dutch background. Among them we can distinguish two types of vintage Żuławy farmhouses and manors. The first ones have usually fronts, doors, portals, windows and windowshields beautifully carved in wood. The other ones are arcade houses, which constitute the last so valuable vintage buildings characteristic for depression terrains. During cycling trips that can start from nearby Gdansk, you may see various examples of Żuławy houses and manors, among the arcade houses we will see not only the smallest, but also the most conspicuous one. Among many, which are slowly falling into ruins, there are also those, which are carefully restored and completely new ones, which were built according to the ancient design a great number of years ago. In the Żuławy, apart from houses and farm buildings, it is possible to see many other historic constructions, such as knights’ manors and strongholds, gothic churches and their ruins, old cemeteries and hydrotechnical constructions, that is why cycling tours are here an interesting pastime, in particular for families with children or all those, who only start their cycling adventure.

The cycling tours which are proposed will certainly allow you to get acquainted with the interesting architecture and landscape of the Żuławy region. In many places they are connected with the network of international long distance EuroVelo cycling routes, what facilitates riding and orientation in the area. The Żuławy is a region which is still not very well known among tourists, in particular if we want to extend the excursion for several days. That is why it is a good idea to start and finisz the trip in larger cities or towns such as: Gdańsk, Malbork, Nowy Dwór Gdański, Nowy Staw. To stay overnight in the region we suggest Cedrowy Dworek.

Where to visit In Żuławy region, apart from varied architecture the landscape itself plays a very important role. While riding across the area on a bicycle we can immediately notice a complete lack of hills. The other aspect, which is immediately noticed while rolling over further kilometres is a complete absence of forests. The only trees are the tall poplar trees and lush willow trees growing along roads and numerous irrigation canals. Between them there are arable fields stretching to horizon, meadows and pastures, which sparkle with all colours depending on the season, that is why it is worth to come here not only in spring or in summer, but also in autumn and in winter. Architectural sights besides the farm houses and arcades are Gothic churches, mennonite cemeteries and windmills. The arcade, as an architectural element of a farmhouse, functioned in the Żuławy region since medieval times and was adopted in later periods by later settlers. photo:

Folwark at Jackowo - Kashubia, photo: JanRusek 24 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Jackowo www.baltic-manors.eu

Palace Ciekocinko www.baltic-manors.eu

by Marek Kalisiński

wild and free

THE KONIK WILD AND FREE WORDS & PHOTOS

Marek Kalisiński www.facebook.com/Marek.Kalisinski.Photo

The Konik (in Polish: konik polski) is a primitive horse breed, which means that it inherited from its wild ancestors numerous features that allow it to survive in harsh conditions and quickly adapt to new surroundings.

Koniks are characterized by high resistance to diseases and low feed requirements. It is a late-maturing breed (3-5 years), characterized by a strong build, thick and very hairy skin, short stature (height at the withers 130-140 cm) and weight from 350 to 400kg. The blue dun coat is a characteristic trait of the breed. Another marking is a dark stripe along the back, visible also on the legs. The mane and tail are heavily hairy and completely black or with a touch of light hair. The chest is deep and strongly ribbed. They have hard horn hoofs, which allows them to move on firm ground without shoeing. The stallions are larger than the mares. Some individuals live up to 33 years of age, although their life expectancy is shorter (about 30 years). In free-range breeding, they form studs led by a stallion or a dominant mare and the rest of the herd following the rules imposed by them.

The history of the Polish Konik is intertwined with the primitive breed of the tarpan (Equus gmelini), considered by some researchers to be the wild ancestor of the domestic horse, which inhabited Eastern Europe and survived in the wild until the 19th century. The last free-living representative of this species (whether it was a tarpan or a feral domestic horse) was killed in Ukraine in 1879 or 1880, but the real tarpan certainly died in 1887 in the Moscow Zoo. In 1780, all the tarpans that lived free in the Białowieża Primeval Forest and the surrounding forests were caught and placed in the zoo of Zamoyski counts in Zwierzyniec, near Biłgoraj. The tarpans were not considered to be of utility value and around 1806 they were caught and handed over to local peasants.

You know... Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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At the beginning of the 20th century, when the research was started in the vicinity of Biłgoraj, it turned out that there were horses closely resembling the old blue dun tarpans, with a dark stripe along their backs. Professor Vetulani got interested in these horses and it was him who introduced the name "Polish Konik" to the hippological literature; soon it became the generally accepted name of the breed. Based on research and observations, he hypothesized that among the tarpans living in the grasslands of Eastern Europe, a forest form emerged, which until the 18th century lived in Poland, Lithuania and Prussia. Even though wild tarpans lived in Polish and Ukrainian lands until the 19th century, the species disappeared as a result of mixing with farm horses. In 1923, in the State Stud Farm in Janów Podlaski and 1928 in the Dworzyszcze farm, belonging to the Krzemieniecki Secondary School, these horses were first attempted to be bred. And in 1936, on the initiative of prof. Vetulani, a reserve of the Polish koniks was created in Białowieża, where the animals were kept free-range to restore the forest tarpan by natural selection in semi-wild conditions. There were 40 individuals in the herd. In addition, in 1938, three studs were established in the Vilnius Region, where the best mares and stallions collected in this area were placed. During the war, other Polish Konik's breeding centres were established, e.g. in Łuka, in Tarnopol province, in Wacyń near

Radom, Felin near Lublin and Deraźno in Volhynia as well as at the National Research Institute of Rural Farms in Puławy. During the war, lots of horses were lost while some were taken to Germany. After the war, the small number of surviving Polish koniks, including 15 horses from the Białowieża reserve, 14 from the Puławy stud (PINGW), 7 from the Deraźne stud and a few animals from private breeding, enabled the restart of breeding. The group of horses (except the Białowieża stud) used to change their place of residence quite frequently. A real stable was built for them only when they moved to Popielno in Masuria in 1949. Soon, it became the main breeding centre of koniks. In 1955, the Polish Academy of Sciences took over the stud in Popielno and continued breeding in the stable system, as well as in the reserve system, thus carrying out the interrupted experiment of prof. Vetulani. Apart from these two centres, some small studs, where Polish koniks began to be raised in the stable system, were established in the 1950s and 1960s. Most of them were closed down and only a few have survived to the present day, keeping the status of the Polish Konik conservative breeding centres. In addition to stable breeding in Poland, the so-called reserve breeding began to develop in the refuges of the Polish Konik. Apart from Popielno and Białowieża, it was undertaken by the Roztocze National Park in Zwierzyniec in 1982 (where the last tarpans were found).

Thirsty Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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Then, in 1990, Eliza and Jan Płoński established a refuge in Zielony Ostrów, in the area of the “Seven Islands” reserve near Węgorzewo (since 2009, the refuge has been run by the Borki Forest Inspectorate). The Biebrza National Park started breeding in 2004, and Aleksander Kowalski established a sanctuary in the "Barycz Valley" Landscape Park near Milicz in 2007 and the Kliniska Forest District near Goleniów in 2010. Nowadays, breeding is carried out in three types: stable (alcove), where horses are under strict human control; stableless system, where horses stay on pastures all the time, are tamed and looked after by people and perform various types of work, and the third form, characterized by the fact that horses live in the wild, acquire food and reproduce in freerange and human interference is limited to the necessary minimum. At present, Polish koniks are widespread throughout the country. Their numbers are increasing significantly and we can meet them not only in Poland, but also in the Netherlands, Germany, Sweden, France, Belgium and England. A large part of them is still kept in reservations. Due to their small height, gentle character, friendly attitude towards people and willingness to work, they are eagerly used by children as well as adults and popular in hippotherapy. In the last few decades,

Polish koniks have been used to preserve valuable natural habitats, where cows grazing or mowing has been stopped, which resulted in the overgrowing of these areas with shrub and woody vegetation and the expansion of undesirable species. They play the role of the so-called live lawnmowers, gnawing and trampling on plants and the bark of trees, limiting their succession, thus restoring or preserving meadow and pasture vegetation, which is the only habitat for many species of birds and other animals, thus increasing biodiversity in a given area. I personally had the opportunity to observe Polish koniks and take pictures of them in the "Szczecin Lagoon Nature Park", which belongs to the Association for the Coast and is located in Skoszewskie Meadows lying on the Szczecin Lagoon - the entire area is included in the European Ecological Network Natura 2000. They were brought here in 2002 from a surplus of Polish koniks from the Biebrza National Park. Let me mention that the entire route (approx. 700 km) they did on their own hooves. A small herd of 15 horses that came here then, has developed into the current stud of about 250 animals which makes a great impression on tourists visiting the Park. I think it is worth visiting such places, especially now, when there are more and more of them, providing an opportunity to observe almost wild horses in their natural environment.

Marek Kalisiński, Szczecin, May 2021

Intimacy Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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Above: On the way one by one | Below: Young horse in a winter fur

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Above: The great three!

| Below: Use the shade of trees to protect themselves from the heat

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The Konik

Do not look at me that way! Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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crossing the ford Crossing Marek Kalisiński Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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After the storm Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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In the mirror Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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Just try! Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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Upcoming storm Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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Sunrise Photo: Marek Kalisiński

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Rytro has great conditions for long walks and cycling, as well as for organized horse riding and skiing trips. In addition, there is the possibility of observing rare species of mountain animals and plants along the way.

RYTRO BESKID SĄDECKI PHOTOS JANUSZ WAŃCZYK www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk Rytro is situated on the route of the main tourist trail of the mountains of Beskid Sądecki in a beautiful gorge in the Poprad Valley. From the west, it is surrounded by wooded hills of the Radziejowa range (1,265m above sea level), and from the east by the Jaworzyna range with Makowica (948m ASL). Over 70% of the commune's area is covered by forests, which provides a wonderful, clean climate.

The land of Rytro has a several centuries-long history. The history of the oldest village of Rytro has been documented since 1312 by the privilege charter of King Władysław I the Elbow-High, granting to the Poor Clares from Stary Sącz the right to collect customs duties on Poprad. We meet the name of Rytro (Rytter) for the first time in the will of Piotr Wyżdżga of 1224. He was the owner of the Rytro Castle, defending the country's borders with Hungary, and at the same time constituting a customs house over the land and water routes. During the castle's splendour, numerous royal processions (e.g. of Władysław I the Elbow-High, Casimir the Great, Jadwiga) passed through Rytro. The ruins of the castle have remained to this day one of the attractions of the commune for passers-by. For several years, archaeological and conservation works on the castle hill have been taking place

The centre of Rytro lies at an altitude of 339 meters above sea level. The village has particularly good climatic conditions and is popular as a summer resort and the seat of numerous camps, resorts and summer sleepaways. It is a junction of tourist routes and a staging area for hiking along the main Beskid route from Krynica to Krościenko. Rytro has great conditions for long walks and cycling, as well as for organized horse riding and skiing trips. In addition, there is the possibility of observing rare species of mountain animals and plants along the way. The beauty of Rytro nature was described by Maria Kownacka in the story Rogaś z Doliny Roztoki (Rogaś Fawn from the Roztoka Valley), still used as a school reading today. Rytro combines the advantages of a quiet commune, a mountain tourism base, and an exclusive holiday destination. There is access to an indoor swimming pool and spa at the Perła Południa, Jantar, and Janina hotels, as well as other guest houses.

On photo: Morning fogs - Połom Wyżna hill

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There are also agritourism lodgings and guest rooms in the commune. Operating since 2005, a modern ski and recreation centre called Ryterski Raj includes a chairlift, a T-bar lift, a carpet lift for children, and downhill ski runs with accommodation and catering facilities. Since 2008, the company ABlandia invites visitors to try out a professional rope park with several dozen platforms, footbridges, other obstacles, and ziplining. You can have a great time there! Another attraction of the Rytro Commune is river rafting on the Poprad from Piwniczna to Rytro. Safe boats with tourists cover the 10-kilometre stretch of the picturesque Poprad valley, providing an unforgettable experience. An open-air event called Dni Rytra (Rytro Days) is organized annually for guests and residents in August. The commune is situated in the valley of the Poprad Landscape Park. Short walks through the valleys of Mała and Wielka Roztoka allow you to easily notice many unique, rare representatives of local flora and fauna. At the springs of Roztoczanka, the Baniska reserve was established in 1924, consisting of the protected stands of beech, fir, spruce, and sycamore.

On photo: After the harvest - evening rest time in the Poprad Valley

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From the animals living there, lynx have been covered with legal protection. In the winter, you can often meet wild boar, deer, and hares in the meadows near the forests. Clear waters of Roztoczanka are the habitat of brown trout. Below the reserve, a water intake has been built to provide drinking water to the inhabitants of the commune. The Roztoka Valley is the last valley of the Beskid Sądecki that has not been regulated by the channel regulations, thus preserving the areas of wet meadows and marshes here. They have become the habitat of several species of amphibians (newts, salamanders, frogs). About five varieties of orchids can be seen in this area in the spring. Several species of reptiles (lizards, blindworms, grass snakes) can be found on the sunny mountain slopes. The occurrence of these rare amphibians and reptiles has caused the Rytro Commune Self-government to establish close cooperation with the Greenworks Association, resulting in the creation of the Commune Ecological Park. Clean air, unspoiled, in places even virgin nature, favours the development of beekeeping. There are about 250 bee stumps in the commune, and beekeepers have the best honey products. Their specialities include honeydew honey, bee products, and the increasingly popular Rytro mead, made according to a secret recipe.

Activities Rafting on the Poprad by Boat Rafting down the Poprad Valley is one of the greatest attractions of the region. Safe boats have a very shallow draught, which makes it possible to continue rafting even in case of low water levels. The boat is controlled by two raftsmen who steer it with wooden poles. The rafting starts at the marina in Piwniczna at ul.Gąsiorowskiego (below the suspension bridge) that can be reached by going towards the border crossing with Slovakia. After about 10km of rafting, the boats arrive at the marina in Rytro, located near the football field. On a boat swaying by the rapids of the river, you can admire the beautiful Beskid landscapes and have an experience that only raftsmen floating timber or merchants transporting their goods from Hungary on rafts could have had years ago. Details: www.splywdolinapopradu.pl The Lookout Tower on the Top of Radziejowa Radziejowa (1266m) is the highest peak of the Beskid Sądecki range and belongs to the Crown of the Polish Mountains. At the top of the mountain, there is a wooden observation tower, approximately 20metres high, offering an unforgettable view. Ecological Park for the Protection of Amphibians and Reptiles in Rytro. The Ecological Park was established in 1996 to protect the unique habitats of flora and fauna characteristic of wetlands in the mountains. The area of 0.52 hectares constitutes a habitat for numerous species of reptiles and amphibians, which are very rare in many other places of Poland. These are the grass snake, the common viper, the smooth snake, the slow worm, the sand lizard, and the viviparous lizard. The group of amphibians is represented by the common toad, the yellow-bellied toad, the common frog, the tree frog, the Carpathian newt, the great crested newt, the common newt, and the mountain newt as well as the spotted salamander. All animals listed above are protected by law. Two species deserve particular attention- the endemic Carpathian newt and the smooth snake (a rare domestic snake). Ruins of the Castle in Rytro. The castle, situated on a high hill on the right bank of the Poprad River, north of the village of Sucha Struga, was probably built at the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries. Some nineteenth-century authors suggested that the oldest part of the building (i.e. the stone tower) might date back to the twelfth century. Currently, however, it is believed to have come from the thirteenth century. The ruins of the castle that have remained to this day are one of the main tourist attractions of the commune. For several years, archaeological and conservation works on the castle hill have been taking place.

You may have a look at the gallery, showing before and after pictures of the renovation works, which might encourage you to visit the castle hill on your own. The Baniska Reserve is a strict nature reserve located in the area of the spring cirque of the Bański Creek (Baniska). It is on the northern slopes of Radziejowa (1266m above sea level) and at the same time in the area of the Poprad Landscape Park. Baniska is a forest reserve and it was created to protect the well-preserved original fragment of the lower mountain zone forest (the Carpathian beech forest) with specimens of old trees. The oldest ones are estimated to be over 200 years old. In the area of the reserve that was expanded in 2007, there is a valley landslide, rarely seen in the Carpathians, two elevated landforms, rock formations, and a landslide lake called Banie or Młaka. The name of the reserve comes from this lake. There is a drinking water intake for Rytro at the lower edge of the reserve. The Baniska reserve can be visited using the educational path called Rogasiowy Szlak, designated in 2005.

Tourist Trails Jaworzyna range: RED TRAIL Rytro - Makowica - Zadnie Góry - Pisana Hala Wierch Nad Kamieniem - Łabowska Hala (mountain lodge). Walking time: 4 hours

Radziejowa range: RED TRAIL Rytro - Mikołaska - Kordowiec - Czekaj Niemcowa - Wielki Rogacz - Żłóbki - Radziejowa Złomisty Wierch (south) - Złomist Wierch (north) - Przehyba (mountain lodge). Walking time: 5.5 hours

BLUE TRAIL Rytro - Wielka Roztoka - Wdżary - Wietrzne Dziury - Przehyba (mountain lodge). Walking time: 3.45 hours

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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Proin sed arcu dui. Aliquam quis ipsum non magna auctor porta eget sit amet ex. Nulla viverra pulvinar porttitor. Suspendisse ut leo id nisl fermentum vulputate. Nunc tincidunt nisi justo, at feugiat quam congue sed. Nulla ipsum enim, pellentesque at ex non, tincidunt egestas ligula. Curabitur ornare, lacus ut gravida elementum, diam orci theais. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Mauris varius orci t empus, iaculis lectus mattis, sagittis mi. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Integer a sem enim. Integer sed augue nibh. Cras auctor purus eget sem lacinia sagittis. Phasellus at feugiat quam congue sed. Nulla ipsum enim, pellentesque at ex non. sagittis.

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On photo: Ruins of the Castle in Rytro.

On photo: Field geometry - Mikołaska

RYTRO BESKID SĄDECKI PHOTOS JANUSZ WAŃCZYK

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On photo: Evening scenery on the Połom hill

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On photo: In the colors of late summer

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After the storm - menacingly and beautifully Photo: Janusz Wańczyk www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk

Rainbow summer Photo: Janusz Wańczyk

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Przysietnickie fields in the evening light Photo: Janusz Wańczyk www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk

Obłazy Ryterskie - the colorful time of lupine Photo: Janusz Wańczyk www.facebook.com/janusz.wanczyk

DISCOVER KRUTYNIA RIVER

Krutynia

A RIVER WITHOUT SECRETS text source: https://mazury.travel/en

Anyone who has ever travelled the Krutynia route will agree that it is one of the most beautiful in Poland. And Masuria explored from a canoe is not only an idyll, but also an exciting adventure.

The Krutynia river starts its course in the Mragowo Lake District, flows out of Warpuńskie Lake, crosses lakes in the Masurian Plain and ends its course in the Land of the Great Masurian Lakes. The trail leads through a dozen or so lakes connected by short rivers, which have been given the common name Krutynia. The whole trail consists of almost 102 kilometres of marked routes, winding through picturesque areas, from Sorkwity to Ruciane-Nida. On the trail there are 10 PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society) water stations waiting for us, where we can rest, eat and stay overnight. Clear water, voices of nature, stunning views and desertion in some less popular sections of the trail. No matter where you are at the moment, you will be enchanted. More than half of the trail runs in the Masurian Landscape Park, and the marked route runs in the vicinity of 10 nature reserves. This means that here you are looking at nature and nature is looking at you. The grey heron will accompany you as you cross the river from Ukta to Bełdany Lake, and if you have a good eye, you can see the white-tailed eagle and the black stork.

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The section of the route from Krutyń to Ukta is considered to be one of the most beautiful. Sailing 13 km, you will absorb the omnipresent greenery, delighted and surprised that so little is needed for happiness. In the initial part of the trail, by the lakes, you will find charming and secluded beaches and campsites, as well as places where you can have a tasty meal. But the Krutynia Trail is not only nature. Following it, it is worth stopping a few times and also looking at the memories of history. From the fortified settlement of the Old Prussian tribe of Galindians in Zyndaki, through the Old Believers’ monastery in Wojnowo, to the shelters and fortifications from World War I and World War II in Ruciane-Nida. The historic Guzianka water gate is also very impressive. Whoever comes to Krutynia once, will come back many times. Stunning greenery, birds singing, the ethereal smell of the forest and soothing peace and quiet on less frequented sections of the trail.

Recommended more info: https://kajaki-krutynia.pl/

Spychowo-Zgon 10.5 km long, 3 hours

The participants of the canoeing trip, together with the canoes, are transported by buses from Stanica Wodna in Krutynia to Spychów to the start of the kayaking trip. The episode begins with Spychowska Struga (here the name of Krutynia is adopted), which soon flows into Lake Spychowskie. Keeping to the left side of the lake, we again enter Spychowska Struga (approx. 4km long), which widens more and more and after a few kilometers turns into the bay of Lake Zdrużno. Here we stick to the right bank and, flowing through a narrow isthmus, we get to the lake. Uplik. It is a very narrow lake with forested shores. After a few kilometers we reach Lake Wet and the village of Zgon (from chasing cattle). Keeping to the right, we enter the bay where Stanica Wodna PTTK in Zgon is located, where, after telephone information, we wait for the transfer to Krutynia. Price (transport is included in the price of renting a kayak): Single kayak: 100 PLN Double kayak: 110 PLN Triple kayak: 120 PLN Canoe: 130 PLN

Zgon-Krutyń approx. 12.5 km, 4-5 h

The participants of the canoeing trip, together with the canoes, are transported by buses from Stanica Wodna in Krutynia to the hostel in Zgon for the start of the trip. There is probably the most difficult stage ahead of us, so I do not recommend it to beginner canoeists. On Lake Mokre there is often a high wave, which makes swimming very difficult. We stick to the right side and swim about 7km (there is a wild camping site in the middle). We reach the lock between Lakes Mokre and Krutyński. After moving the kayak, we continue sailing on Lake Krutyński until we reach the Krutynia River. Just a few more turns and we reach the PTTK riverside hostel in Krutynia. Price (transport is included in the price of renting a kayak): 1-seater kayak: 60 PLN 2-seater kayak: 80 PLN 3-seater kayak: 90 PLN Canoe: 100 PLN

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VISIT: www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

Marcin Nalepka CASTLES WITH THE TATRA MOUNTAINS IN THE BACKGROUND

I'm 40. Photographing is an interesting way for me to spend my free time. I mainly photograph landscapes, but family photography is also familiar to me. In the pictures I try to show images of interesting places against the natural background of the Tatra Mountains, including castles and churches. I live in a small town about 100 km in a straight line from the mountains, so most of the photos were taken from this distance. I use a telephoto lens for photography, which results in the effect that the mountains are very close. I am from Lesser Poland, hence the idea for castles with the Tatras in the background. I also invite you to FB page: Marcin Nalepka Fotografia where you can find more of my photos. Pictures taken from a distance to the Tatra Mountains: Castle in Czorsztyn - approx. 30km Castle in Niedzica - approx. 30km The castle in Nowy Wiśnicz - approx. 90km Wawel Castle - approx. 100km Tenczyn Castle in Rudno - approx. 115km Castle in Niepołomice approx. -105km

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ROOF & CASA HOME AND DECOR

view on Tatra Mountains via The Royal Castle at the Wawel Hill Kraków Wawel is a limestone hill in the centre of Kraków upon the Vistula River with a complex of impressive historical monuments of unique historical and artistic values. This extraordinary sanctuary determines the Poles' identity, is their national and cultural symbol.

The Royal Castle at the Wawel Hill approximately 100km from Tatra Mountains

The Wawel Royal Castle and the Wawel Hill constitute the most historically and culturally important site in Poland. For centuries the residence of the kings of Poland and the symbol of Polish statehood, the Castle is now one of the country's premier art museums. Established in 1930, the museum encompasses ten curatorial departments responsible for collections of paintings, including an important collection of Italian Renaissance paintings, prints, sculpture, textiles, among them the Sigismund II Augustus tapestry collection, goldsmith’s work, arms and armor, ceramics, Meissen porcelain, and period furniture. The museum’s holdings in oriental art include the largest collection of Ottoman tents in Europe. With seven specialized conservation studios, the museum is also an important center for the conservation of works of art. Over one million visitors tour the Castle's permanent collections and temporary exhibitions each year, while an estimated two million visit the Wawel Hill. The Castle’s permanent exhibitions recreate the appearance of the royal residence in the Renaissance and Baroque eras. About 20,000 schoolchildren yearly participate in dedicated museum lessons. In addition, many children attend workshops and take part in academic and artistic competitions. The Wawel Royal Castle also hosts a lively program of events including symphonic and chamber music concerts and performances of opera and courtly dance. The visitor center holds cafés, shops, and other visitor services.

Photo: Marcin Nalepka www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka 79 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz (New Wiśnicz) approximately 90km from Tatra Mountains

Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz is the largest preserved Baroque fortified residence in Poland. The huge castle in Wiśnicz is visible from afar. This medieval building after alterations by Piotr Kmita in the 16th century was transformed into a renaissance residence. Further restructuring works were ordered by Stanislaus Lubomirski after the year 1615 when additional fortifications with five bastions were added to the castle. Also at this time, eighty cannons were placed on the new fortifications. As a result, Wiśnicz Castle became one of the most powerful strongholds in Poland. The castle in spite of its fortifications did not withstand the strength of the Swedish army which invaded Poland in the period now known as the “Potop” (flood). At that time one hundred and fifty wagonloads of booty were taken out of the castle. In the renovated interiors there is an exhibition recounting the history of the castle, a collection of copper vessels, and a collection of models of Polish castles plus a sarcophagus of Stanislaus Lubomirski

Photo: Marcin Nalepka www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

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Czorsztyn approximately 30km from Tatra Mountains

The castle was located on the left bank of the Dunajec, on a hill falling down steep slopes towards the river. They protected the building from all sides except the north-east, where the approach was more gentle and where the outer bailey developed later. The original buildings from the second half of the 13th century, occupying the top of the hill, were wood and earth. Probably at the end of the 13th or the beginning of the 14th century a free-standing cylindrical tower with a diameter of 10 meters and a wall thickness at the base of 3.5 meters was erected from unworked limestone in the northern part of the castle. Initially, it probably created a system of fortifications together with earth and wood fortifications. Interestingly, it was not built like a typical bergfried at the culmination of the hill, but slightly lower, on the edge of the rock, so it could defend the approach to the hill. The castle has been preserved in the form of a ruin with the main element in the form of a seventeenth century, foursided tower. After carrying out conservation works in recent years, it is now open to visitors.

Photo: Marcin Nalepka www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

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Tenczyn Castle in Rudno approximately 115 km from Tatra Mountains

Tenczyn Castle, also known as Tęczyn Castle, is a medieval castle in the village of Rudno in the Polish Jura, Poland. It was built as a seat of the powerful Tęczyński family. The castle fell into disrepair during the Deluge in mid-17th century, after being pillaged and burned by SwedishBrandenburgian forces looking for the Polish Crown Jewels and rumored treasures of the Tęczyński family. Subsequently rebuilt, it again fell into disrepair after a major fire in the mid18th century and remains in that state to this day. The castle stands on the remnants of a Permian period lava stream, the highest hill of Garb Tenczyński (Castle Hill), which is 411 m above the sea level. The first mention of the stronghold in writing is dated to 24 September 1308, when King Władysław I the Elbow-high, who was hunting in the woods around Thanczin, issued a diploma to the Cistercian monastery in Sulejów. It is believed that the first wooden castle structure was erected around 1319 by Jan Nawój of Morawica, Castellan of Cracow. After the fire in 1768, the structure increasingly fell into disrepair. In 1783, the remains of Jan Magnus Tęczyński were moved from the castle chapel to a new tomb in St. Catherine's Church in Tenczynek. In 1816, the castle became the property of the Potocki family and remained in their hands until the outbreak of World War II in 1939.

Photo: Marcin Nalepka www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka

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The Royal Castle in Niepołomice approximately 105km from Tatra Mountains

The castle in Niepołomice began as one of many fortifications throughout Małopolska initiated by King Kazimierz the Great in the 14th century, however this one soon became his favourite residence which he used as a retreat from the royal seat in Kraków. Kazimierz wasn’t the only king to favour the isolated outpost however, as his successors all invested themselves in further embellishing and expanding the castle into a magnificent royal residence where much time was spent. The castle’s heyday came during the rule of Władysław Jagiełło who held meetings of the royal council here, often entertaining foreign dignitaries and passing official court judgements from Niepołomice rather than Wawel. It was also from here that the famous royal hunts set out, bringing back the big game trophies of bison, bears and boars that would line the castle halls. In the mid-16th century King Zygmunt August rebuilt the residence on the model of contemporary Renaissance palaces – the appearance of which has been restored today. The ‘Second Wawel’ (as it was known) maintained its splendour for another hundred years before the Swedish deluge brought an end to its golden age and, along with the country, the castle gradually fell into ruin during Poland’s eras of partition and occupation. A long and costly reconstruction began in 1991 and was finally completed in 2007. Today the castle is a multi-functional space hosting several museum exhibits, an excellent restaurant, 3-star boutique hotel, spa and conference facilities. Despite all that however, the space retains its authentic historical character. Perfect for a family outing, across from the Castle entrance is a park with a large playground, Queen Bona's picturesque gardens lie beside, and the Wisła River flows just beyond it

Photo: Marcin Nalepka www.facebook.com/fotografianalepka 87 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

www.odkryjbeskid.pl www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid

Cycling in Małopolska Beskid Sądecki Part 2

Sleep. Eat. Go cycling. Repeat! Text, graphics and description: Patrycja Furca, Maciej Iwan (Facebook: Koło Południa), Konrad Rogoziński, Grzegorz Ślęczek (www.turbobikes.pl). photos: Konrad Rogoziński cyclists: Patrycja Furca and Łukasz Świętach

Health has many names, one of which is cycling and bicycle touring. It is widely known that regular physical activity brings positive effects. Burning fat, improving efficiency, reducing stress, better sleep, and well-being are just some of them. Unfortunately, most people associate the bike with all-day weekend trips and ride sporadically... It doesn't have to be that way! Thanks to the bicycle paths which in recent years have grown up in the Nowy Sącz region like mushrooms after the rain, our two-tracks can accompany us every day during commuting to work or afternoon rides. For example, the distance by the bicycle path from the market square in Nowy Sącz to "Bobrowisko" (the beaver farm) in Stary Sącz we can cover back and forth in less than 1.5 hours at a recreational pace. This means that we force the body to exercise, admire the panorama of the Beskid Sądecki, relax the exhausted mind, and observe the wild fauna and flora in "Bobrowisko" during the layover. And all of that for free! In addition, we get something priceless that each of us dreams of health! Live slowly! Ride fast! In the life of almost every cycling enthusiast, there comes a moment when recreational riding begins to turn into something more professional. What does more professional mean? We start to ride faster and farther, we look for information on the internet forums on the right outfit, accessories and riding technique, so we become more aware of what we are doing. Therefore, at this point, it is worth installing a sports application on your smartphone (currently, after the fall of Endomondo, Strava is the leader among cyclists) or getting an activity monitor or a meter, thanks to which we will be able to save and analyse our achievements. This will give us a picture of how many kilometres we have travelled, what was the sum of the altitude difference, how much energy we have used and whether we are making any progress. A big advantage will be the addition of data from the heart rate monitor to our achievements as it will allow more insightful information about our condition. So what if not the best rider – at least looks great! As it is said - there is nothing that makes us real cyclists more than professional, colourful clothing! But we deny these rumours! In cycling outfits, the most important thing is mobility and thermal comfort. They don't have to be brand-name, tight-fitting outfits. The most important thing is to dress in layers. During long climbs, we cannot overheat while during the descents it is necessary to have something to put on, not to catch a chill - after all, we care about our health! The only rule that must be strictly followed is to avoid cotton clothes as they dry very slowly after sweating and instead of heating, might cool the body even more. A good solution includes, therefore, all kinds of synthetic materials such as polyester, polyamide, elastane and Lycra

Warszawa

Krakow

Rzeszów

Beskid Sądecki

www.bit.ly/velomaps www.odkryjbeskid.pl www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid

Sleep. Eat. Go cycling. Repeat! In the entire cycling world, it is all about the balance between sleep, proper diet and training. In simple terms, this means that in addition to cycling, we should also have the right amount of sleep and a healthy diet that will allow us to maintain balance in our body and give us a chance to break new boundaries. Let's start taking care of ourselves today!

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

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Road 1 Two ranges - a classic MTB expedition along the ridges of the Beskid Sądecki, i.e. from Krynica to Stary Sącz along the Jaworzyna and Radziejowa ranges Czarny Potok / Krynica - Jaworzyna - Hala Łabowska - Cyrla - Rytro - Przehyba (blue trail) and downhill along the yellow trail to Stary Sącz (return to Krynica by train) About 60 km, 6 hours ride, 2,200 m of climbs Paśniki: Jaworzyna 4 km. Hala Łabowska 16 km, Cyrla 25 km, Rytro 29 km, Przehyba 40 km Description of the route / for whom Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface, a descent from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region) for a dessert and guaranteed unforgettable views. It is an adventure for everyone who wants to prove themselves. A mountain bike with front suspension is enough to cycle this route. Better equipment will certainly improve comfort, especially on descents, which you certainly will not miss here. This is not a trip for the beginners, even on ebikes. It requires basic mountaineering skills and MTB training. The pavements include stony forest paths, dirt paths and asphalt roads for relax, at the end of the route, on the way to Stary Sącz. There are two challenging climbs on the route. The first to Jaworzyna from the Czarny Potok valley, the second to Przehyba from Rytro. If you like the cuisine in mountain lodges, it's not worth taking too many supplies in your backpack. We will pass some perfect places to rest and regenerate. The first section of the route to Rytro is a ride in the Beskid climate, stones, forest and a view from time to time☺ The descent is a technically nondemanding section along the access road to Cyrla shelter. From Rytro, we leave for the Radziejowa range along the blue trail. It is worth keeping some energy at the end of the trip because the ride down the yellow trail to Przysietnica is the essence of cycling fun. It is worth setting off on the route early so that you can catch the afternoon train back to Krynica.

Description for electric bikes: The very essence of MTB in the old, classic style, i.e. a long journey that will allow you to understand why you bought or rented an e-bike. Charging places: Make sure to plan a stop to feed yourself and the bike. With a 500 Wh battery, you should have no problem with reaching Rytro. If you don't like stops in the valley, you can recharge on Cyrla. (In the shelter at Hala Łabowska, charging is problematic – there is no access to the power grid).

Why is it worth taking this route? For the views, the fun of being in the mountains itself, to check your skills and abilities and for the gastronomic flavours of the shelter's cuisine. Description for analog bikes: Fortunately, there are several shelters along the way so we can replace some of the lost calories. Long climbs will surely be remembered, but a light bike will give you more fun when descending from Przehyba photo: Konrad Rogoziński

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photo: Konrad Rogoziński

Road 2 | Tourist Muszynska Loop Information on the legibility of route markings

Why is it worth taking this route? You will have the opportunity to visit unique, wooden Orthodox churches from the UNESCO list.

The route on the section Muszyna-Dubne and Wojkowa-Muszyna is very well marked both in terms of legibility and the number of signs. The forest section of Dubne-Wojkowa, due to the windbreaks from the beginning of 2019 and forest works, requires the cyclist to pay more attention. In the section from the junction behind Wojkowa with the route to Powroźnik Muszyna, the trail coincides with the Cross-Border Bicycle Trail.

You will ride one of the wildest mountain routes in the Polish Beskids (Leluchowskie Mountains). You will ride through two beautiful river valleys, the Poprad and the Muszynka river valleys. Tourist Muszynska Loop is mainly a red cycling trail, forming loops around Muszyna. It runs through Muszyna, Leluchów, Dubne, Wojkowa and Powroźnik. Let's go! We can start the route at the railway station in Muszyna, at ul. Piłsudskiego. We can get there by train or by car. For larger vehicles, I recommend parking at ul. Zazamcze, about 3 km from the railway station. Then we go south along the asphalt road, towards the border crossing in Leluchów. Before the first more serious, long and steep ascents, you can stop at the "limestone" mineral water spring to replenish fluids and supplies for the road. On the trail of wooden churches. After 7.5 kilometres of quite tiring route we reach Leluchów. We go straight ahead until the border crossing. Later, after a few dozen meters, we turn left at the marketplace that is often organized here. While in the village, it is worth going up the hill and visiting St. Dimitri Church. Then, we continue down the asphalt road, along the state border, to the village of Dubne. Here we have another church worth attention - St. Michael the Archangel's Church. Near the church, picturesque estates with interesting architecture. We follow the road to the end and enter the forest. At this point, periodically (during tree logging), considerable difficulties may occur (after rainfall, a lot of mud). This is also a place of the greatest elevation, reaching the highest point of the route.

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photo: Patrycja Furca

Then a nice ride down, along a wide forest road. Be careful at its end, before you reach mountain meadows. The trail turns at 90° here and runs steeply down at the edge of the forest. Another church in Wojkowa - St. Kosma and Damian's Church, with an interesting bell tower. Further along the asphalt road, we reach the intersection with the Powroźnik -Tylicz road. We turn left towards Powroźnik. Before the railway crossing, we turn left again to visit the next church - St. Jacob's Church. Right next to it, there is a pump room with a gazebo and a small park. Then, keeping to the road signs, we reach the provincial road 971. Then, we cycle towards Muszyna. After 1.2 km, we turn right, through the railway crossing and then over the bridge on the Muszynka. After that, we turn left to find the bicycle path leading to Muszyna itself. On the way, in front of the Tower, we have MOR. You can also refill water from Anna spring here. From there, we get to the railway station over the bridge (turning left), right behind it, under the railway bridge. If we left the bus on ul. Zazamcze, we need to turn right twice and after cycling a few hundred meters, we are there

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

Information on the legibility of route markings The route on the section Muszyna-Dubne and Wojkowa-Muszyna is very well marked both in terms of legibility and the number of signs. The forest section of Dubne-Wojkowa, due to the windbreaks from the beginning of 2019 and forest works, requires the cyclist to pay more attention. In the section from the junction behind Wojkowa with the route to Powroźnik - Muszyna, the trail coincides with the Cross-Border Bicycle Trail.

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Road 3 | Two ranges - the crown of MTB From Krynica to Stary Sącz along Jaworzyna and Radziejowa ranges Czarny Potok / Krynica - Jaworzyna - Hala Łabowska - Cyrla - Rytro Przehyba (blue trail) and downhill along the yellow trail to Stary Sącz (return by train) About 60km, 6 hours ride, 2,200m of climbs Paśniki: Jaworzyna 4km. Hala Łabowska 16km, Cyrla 25km, Rytro 29km, Przehyba 40km

Route description Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface, a descent from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region) for a dessert and guaranteed unforgettable views. It is an adventure for everyone who wants to prove themselves. A mountain bike with front suspension is enough to cycle this route. Better equipment will certainly improve the comfort of the ride, especially on descents, which you certainly will not miss here.

Description for electric bikes:

This is not a trip for the beginners, even on an electric bike. It requires basic mountaineering skills and MTB training. The pavements include stony forest paths, dirt paths and asphalt roads for relaxing, at the end of the route, on the way to Stary Sącz.

Charging places: Probably you won't make it without a stop to feed yourself and the bike. With a 500 Wh battery, you should have no problem with reaching Rytro. If you don't like valley stops, you can recharge your electric bike on Cyrla. Attention! Due to the lack of access to the power grid, charging in the shelter at Hala Łabowska is problematic.

There are two challenging climbs on the route. The first to Jaworzyna from the Czarny Potok valley, the second to Przehyba from Rytro. If you like the cuisine in mountain lodges, it's not worth taking too many supplies in your backpack. On the way, we will pass some perfect places to rest and regenerate. The first section of the route to Rytro is a ride in the Beskid climate: stones, forest and views from time to time. The descent is a technically non-demanding section along the access road to Cyrla shelter. From Rytro, we leave for the Radziejowa range along the blue trail. It is worth keeping some energy at the end of the trip because the ride down the yellow trail to Przysietnica is the essence of cycling fun. It is worth setting off on the route early so that you can catch the afternoon train back to Krynica. Why is it worth taking this route? For the views, the fun of being in the mountains itself, to check your skills and abilities and for the gastronomic flavours of the shelter's cuisine. 94 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The very essence of MTB in the old classic style, i.e. a perfect long trip that will allow you to understand what you are buying or renting an electrician for. Two hearty trips, long ridge sections, varied surface and a downhill ride from Przehyba (the best flow in the Nowy Sącz region) for a dessert. Unforgettable views guaranteed.

photo: Konrad Rogoziński

Description for analog bikes: Fortunately, there are several shelters along the way so we can replace some of the lost calories. Long climbs will surely be remembered. A light bike will give you more fun during downhill ride from Przehyba.

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photo: Konrad Rogoziński www.odkryjbeskid.pl www.facebook.com/odkryjbeskid

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

Jan Kochanowski Museum

The Museum, devoted to Renaissance poet Jan Kochanowski, is located in a classical 19th century manor house called Jabłonowski (designed by Jakub Kubicki), and is surrounded by a beautiful, English-style park. The exhibition is displayed across six halls, with items presenting the life and work of the poet and father of national Polish literature. The Renaissance material items shown (such as furniture, ceramics and an engagement ring) form a background to the creative figure of Jan Kochanowski and his literary works. In addition, collected works of Polish poets and writers of the era illustrate the development of Polish art and culture in the 16th century. Woodcut scenes of cities depict the writer’s foreign travels and excursions, and excerpts from his various works, displayed in the exhibition halls, emphasise the values of his life and his preoccupation with the richness of language. The park has a neo-Gothic chapel, and in the place where once stood the famous lime tree mentioned in the poet’s works, there now stands a commemorative obelisk. Erected in 1980, a bronze statue of Jan Kochanowski welcomes the visitors to the house. Each June, the town of Czarnolas hosts events such as 'Days of Jan Kochanowski's Works', 'Czarnolas Renaissance Days' and 'Czarnolas Saturdays'. Branch of the Jacek Malczewski Museum in Radom. Location: approximately 110 km south of Warsaw. Access by private transport.

Czarnolas 26-720 Warszawa State: MAZOWIECKIE

Latitude: 52.2296756 Longitude: 21.0122287 100 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

The exhibition presents the life and work of the poet and father of national Polish literature. text source: culture.pl

Poet, translator and playwright. Born 1530 in Sycyna, died 1584 in Lublin. The greatest Polish and a major European Renaissance man of letters whose poetic genius was the first of such brilliance in Poland and remained the only one until the explosion of talent in Romanticism. Jan Kochanowski, of the noble clan of Korwin, was born in Sycyna. The exact date – day and month – is unknown. He was a son of Piotr Kochanowski, Sandomierz lawyer and judge, and Anna Białaczowska. According to Julian Krzyżanowski, the distinguished historian of literature whose sources must have been credible, Jan's father was a miser and a scrooge. It must have been the circumstances that have forced him to be that. A squire of average means, he had to support a particularly large family, Jan having had eleven brothers and sisters. Two of his brothers, Mikołaj and Andrzej, also tried their hand in literature, though their talent and fame were nowhere near those of Jan's. Andrzej is noted in the history of literature mostly for his translation of Vergil's Aeneid, while Mikołaj is remembered for his rendering of Plutarch's Moralia. To make a career, a nobleman of medium wealth had to follow the path leading through learning and magnate courts, and so in 1544 Kochanowski was admitted to the liberal arts department at the Krakow Academy. Although he was ultimately not to earn an academic degree, he found himself in one of Europe's major centres of humanism. He then continued his studies in Królewiec and Padua. While in Królewiec (in 1551-52 and 1555-56), he was associated with the court of Albrecht, the Prussian duke and Polish senator, his likely sponsor. Incidentally, Albrecht was a major and mighty protector of the Polish Reformation. Kochanowski stayed in Padua three times, in 1552-55, 1556-57 and 1558-59, studying under such distinguished humanists as Francesco Robortello and Bernardino Tomitano. He made friends with Łukasz Górnicki, Stanisław Porębski and Andrzej Nidecki, the leading Polish humanists, and stayed friends with them after his return to Poland. More importantly, though, he greatly expanded his classical education, absorbing Renaissance ideas, Italy being their birthplace and leading centre. Upon return from his last stay in Padua, he travelled across France and Germany, meeting in France Pierre Ronsard, the greatest poet of French Renaissance and champion of vernacular literature. Upon his return to Poland in 1559, Kochanowski started the career of a courtier at eminent aristocratic families, such as the Tarnowskis, the Tęczyńskis and the Firlejs.

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

Lament 1 All Heraclitus' tears, all threnodies And plaintive dirges of Simonides, All keens and slow airs in the world, all griefs, Wrung hands, wet eyes, laments and epitaphs, All, all assemble, come from every quarter, Help me to mourn my small girl, my dear daughter, Whom cruel Death tore up with such wild force Out of my life, it left me no recourse. So the snake, when he finds a hidden nest Of fledgling nightingales, rears and strikes fast Repeatedly, while the poor mother bird Tries to distract him with a fierce, absurd Fluttering — but in vain! the venomous tongue Darts, and she must retreat on ruffled wing. "You weep in vain," my friends will say. But then, What is not in vain, by God, in lives of men? All is in vain! We play at blindman's buff Until hard edges break into our path. Man's life is error. Where, then, is relief? In shedding tears or wrestling down my grief? From the Stanisław Barańczak-Seamus Heaney translation, p. 3.

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Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

With Bishop Piotr Myszkowski's backing, he was appointed courtier and secretary at the royal court of Sigismund-August in 1563. His attitude to the king was ambivalent, his writings revealing both approval and disappointment; the latter may have been triggered by inadequate development of his career. He accompanied the king during the military maneuvers in Lithuania in 1567, targeted against Ivan the Terrible, and at the Sejm proceedings in Lublin when the Union of Lublin was reached (1568, 1569). After the death of Sigismund-August, Kochanowski sided with Henri Valois, taking part in his coronation in 1573. After the king's shameful flight from Poland, his disappointment prompted him to give up courtly life. Although he did not consider his courtier career particularly successful, he finished it as a wealthy man, owing in part to the then quite common practice of lay ecclesiastical career. The backing of Bishop Piotr Myszkowski had helped Kochanowski to become a parish priest in Poznań and Zwoleń. He paid chaplains to do pastoral work for him, while he earned profit by collecting tithes from town land and noble villages. He parted with the parish priesthood when he gave up the courtier career. Though he never returned to the royal court, he approved of Stefan Batory and his political conceptions. He settled in Czarnolas, his father's property, and married Dorota Podlodowska in 1575. Of the six daughters she bore him, three died in infancy. The only son was born after Kochanowski's death.

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Despite the tragedy of losing children, life in Czarnolas was peaceful and harmonious. This found reflection in Kochanowski's work, rich and mature in those years. The poet died a sudden death at the age of 54, his creative powers at their peak. He suffered a heart attack in Lublin, where he had arrived hopeful for king's assistance with the case of his wife's brother who had been murdered in Turkey. The funeral, which took place in Lublin, was attended by many secular and Church dignitaries as well as by king Stefan Batory. Kochanowski was laid to rest in the chapel of the Zwoleń church, next to his parents. The tombstone with his effigy is still there. Renaissance culture flourished in Krakow, at magnate courts and, more than anywhere, in Italy in Kochanowski's times. A reaction to dogmatic Middle Ages, Renaissance humanism evoked the standards of antique culture and propounded freedom of human reason and the right to intellectual independence in studying the world. Priority was given to man who was unrestricted and aspired to the Hellenistic ideal of harmony. Humanism's top maxim 'homo sum, a me alienum esse puto' ('I am a human being, so nothing human is strange to me') expressed affirmation of all areas of human existence: the spiritual, the corporeal, and the social. Contrary to the medieval ideal of asceticism, man was given the right to happiness, yet was expected to aspire to perfection.

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Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

life &

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

poetry

The Renaissance opposition to medieval dogmas and insistence on independent pursuit of truth created a climate conducive to the reformatory movement in the Church. The movement attacked the Church for being dogmatic and intellectually petrified; law-abiding Catholics attacked it for greed, unjustified riches and chaplains' inappropriate lifestyle. This and the sense of threat to doctrine and authority made Pope Paul III convene a Council in Trent. Debating intermittently in 1545-63, the Council was to work out unambiguous interpretations of the Catholic doctrine and propose an organizational reform of the Church. The Reformation flourished in Poland, too, with its numerous Calvinist and Lutheran churches doing well even after king Sigismund-August adopted the decisions of the Council of Trent.

The struggle against the intellectual as well as economic domination of the Church was closely related to the powerful nobility movement called 'the execution of rights'. It was at its peak when Kochanowski returned from Padua. The nobility, its wealth rising, education improving and privileges growing, fought to dominate the state. Access to the sea gained after the defeat of the Teutonic Order opened to it major European trade routes. Intellectual and religious commotion at magnate courts and at reformed churches as well as the highly popular political writings of Łukasz Górnicki, Andrzej Frycz-Modrzewski, Stanisław Orzechowski

life & poetry and others raised common interest in political and social matters. Increasingly conscious of its power, the nobility aimed to reduce royal prerogatives and domination of the magnates and the Church, and managed to abolish church courts and to considerably reduce property privileges due to royal endowments for aristocratic families and Church dignitaries. In accordance with the principle 'homo sum...', all the major themes of the time found reflection in Kochanowski's work, from philosophical musings over human life to political and social issues to scenes from court and gentry life to stories shared at meals. Kochanowski had started to write in Italy, using sophisticated Latin to create odes, songs, elegies and epigrams. Not everything survived; whatever did was published with his later Latin works in Kraków in 1584 as Elegiarum libri IV. The vast majority of his work is, however, in Polish. His conscious choice, it agreed with the Renaissance trend to write in vernacular and caused the Polish language to undergo a quality change in mere thirty years. The Polish of Kochanowski and the later Polish is different from what it was before. There had never been such a profound linguistic revolution in Polish history. Kochanowski was aware of his role in literature and of the role of a poet. He was the first to formulate the ethos of the artist whose talent, a gift from God, is both a privilege, a duty, and a suffering.

Photo: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

He expressed it most forcefully in the poem Muza(The Muse), his literary manifesto dating probably from ca. 1570 and professing faith in the immortality of his poetry, a sense of a unique mission and of greatness which makes one responsible to the world and lonely at the summit. The poem pays a tribute to Bishop Piotr Myszkowski, who generously supported the poet, enabling him to work unencumbered, and expresses gratitude for the patronage of the enlightened and the wealthy who contribute to the development of culture. Indeed, the institution of patronage was known before, but it flourished particularly well in the Renaissance and was maintained in the following centuries. One of Kochanowski's earliest Polish-language works was his hymn Czego Chcesz Od Nas Panie Za Twe Hojne Dary (What wilt thou from us, O Lord, for thy generous gifts?). Some sources suggest it was written before Kochanowski returned to Poland and was sent from Paris. As a poetic form, the hymn was common in the Middle Ages. Addressed to God or a saint, it expressed subjection, conveyed a sense of insignificance of mortal beings and pleaded for intercession. Kochanowski's hymn is a beautiful expression of man's gratitude to the Creator for the beauty and harmony of the world. The poet's God is not a strict, punishing Father, but a Big Artist who has made the riches of Nature and the beauty of all beings. It was noted that such God was not really attributable to a specific religion, his image having no Catholic-specific features. The hymn, written in thirteen-syllable, rigorous and at the same time natural and melodious verse, became very popular and made it to Catholic and Protestant songbooks alike.

In his court period Kochanowski started to write Fraszki (Trifles), minor poems with sharp points, their tradition going back to antique epigrams and Anacreontics. Continuing to write them throughout his life, he covered a vast spectrum of themes, from philosophical musings, praise of court and gentry life, the beauty of women, portraits of friends and acquaintances to anecdotes from social life. Fraszki provide a superb, vivid image of the customs and lifestyle of the time, their sharp and succinct language being the only area where the poet ventured a little bit of noble bawdiness. Kochanowski mostly wrote narrative poems in his court period. Highly diverse, they ranged from incidental poems to political and social essays. Among the former stand out the epitaths O Śmierci Jana Tarnowskiego (On the Death of Jan Tarnowski) and Pamiątka Wszytkimi Cnotami Hojnie Obdarzonemu Janowi Baptyscie Na Tęczynie (In Memory of Jan Baptysta of Tęczyn, Generously Endowed with All Virtues). Incidental poems, dedicated to statesmen whom Kochanowski truly respected, were not intended as flattery, but emphasized virtues such as patriotism, valiance, wisdom, integrity and ability to sustain friendship. The funny poem Zuzanna Przypisane Jej M. Paniej Elżbiecie Z Szydłowca(Zuzanna, Ascribed to the Honourable Elżbieta of Szydłowiec) is quite a perverse praise of woman's virtue. Broda (The Beard) is an argument for supremacy between feminine virtue and moustache. Kochanowski's major contribution to Polish culture was Psałterz Dawidów (David's Psalter). Not so much a translation as a free paraphrase of the Biblical Book of Psalms, it took the poet many years to complete and involved some serious philological studies of various Greek and Latin translations. Written in varied and rich verse, it contains philosophical and personal themes alongside the core religious aspect. The Psalms had been paraphrased before (for instance by Mikołaj Rej), but it was owing to Kochanowski that they gained a perfect Renaissance form and expressed the Renaissance concept of God who transcends religions. They have consequently become prayer literature recognized by Catholics and Protestants alike, especially after the accomplished composer Mikołaj Gomółka wrote music to them in 1580 under the title of Melodie Na Psałterz Polski (Melodies to the Polish Psalter).

Kochanowski's lyrical talent manifested itself best in Pieśni (The Songs). He wrote them throughout his life, and they dominated his work in Czarnolas. After all, landowner's life was particularly close to the ideals of Horace's 'golden measure', and Horace was for Kochanowski a role model both in terms of outlook on life and poetry 105 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

photo: Gregor Laubsch

VISIT: Sielskie Inscenizacje Kamila Rosińska

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Kamila Rosińska STRAWBERRIES *published for the first time

Kamila Rosińska - mother, wife, photographer / set designer, visual artist, educator, master of arts, graduate of The Leon Schiller National Film, Television and Theater School in Łódź at the Cinematography Department with a specialisation in photography. She is an exhibition curator of a Czech art gallery. “I have had lots of awards and exhibitions, both in Poland and abroad. I am a fulfilled woman". As she claims, today's art of photography often no longer serves the mimesis function, that is, imitating reality. Instead, it is rather a mirror transforming this reality into contemporary language. The world of children's photography is a beautiful and at the same time demanding artistic space. A great responsibility rests on the creator, his or her sense of aesthetics and sensitivity. As a creator, you should always be aware of that. You should not completely subordinate the child, facing the other side of the lens, to your creative visions. Probably a very difficult postulate since in the context of children's photography, the line between subjectivity and objectification is extremely thin. “In addition to idyllic and fairy-tale children's creations, I also create more abstract, surreal pictures that are exhibited and sold in art galleries. Visual communication is very important to me”.

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- STRAWBERRIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA TRANSLATION: LIBRES, CONSULTATION: AMBER ACOSTA

STRAWBERRY It was a beautiful, sunny day and the azure sky stretched

The setting sun had not touched the surface of the lake yet when a

majestically over the Old Mill Valley. The surface of Lake of

raven flew into the room. He landed next to the basket of strawberries

Truth, delicately ruffled by the gusts of wind, sparkled in the

and looked at it for a moment as if he wanted to choose the juiciest

gentle rays. The summer breeze danced between the shutters, which squeaked rhythmically as they surrendered to it.

Suddenly, there was a knock on the window. Sisters Tosia and Zosia ran out onto the porch of the old mill, thinking that it must be an unexpected guest. However, there was nobody. Instead, there was a large wicker basket with strawberries on the doorstep. - They look so tasty... I guess no one will be angry if I try one of them? Tosia said. So she did as she thought, and instantly she turned into a red, tiny strawberry that fell into the basket, vanishing among the other fruits. - Oh no! - Zosia exclaimed, scared. - Tosia?! Tosia! The girl kept calling, but instead of her sister, there was a wicker basket in front of her, filled to the brim with juicy strawberries, shimmering in the sun. - Which of you is my Tosia? How do I recognize you, little sister? The crying girl continued to call. A downy old Owl saw the whole incident from her tree. - Hoo-hoo-hooooo, don't cry baby. Before the sun goes down behind Lake of Truth, you and your sister will see each other again. Having this said, the Owl turned its old, feathered head and sprang to flight majestically, flapping its great wings. - Cold comfort - Zosia snorted - I think I have to take you home as someone else might be tempted and accidentally eat my little Tosia Zosia said quietly, picking up the basket with strawberries. But what's that?! Boom!!! Zosia fell stumbling over the threshold, and all the strawberries rolled down the wooden floor of the mill. The girl picked them up quickly and gently set the basket on the table. "I have to leave you here for a while," she said and ran to her room to prepare a safe place for the strawberries. In the old chest by the window, there was a beautifully embroidered blanket that Zosia got from her grandmother and which she liked very much. The girl lay down next to the chest for a moment. How to recognize a little sister in the crowd of other fruits? - Zosia wondered. And what if she fails to do so before the strawberries begin to lose their freshness? The breeze blowing through the open window whipped her cheeks, and it felt so cosy and warm under the blanket that, despite her worries, she fell asleep quickly.

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and most appetising one. Sisterly instinct made Zosia sense the threat. She quickly opened her eyes, and when she saw the huge black bird with a strawberry in its beak, her heart started to toll, just like a Sunday mass bell. - No! She managed to scream through a lump in her throat. The frightened raven pulled out and flew out of the window without letting the strawberry out of its beak. Terrified, Zosia ran out outside the mill, looking shaky as the raven would head over the surface of Lake of Truth. She felt that the bird unmistakably chose the strawberry that was closest to her heart and now, he was flying over the lake, with her sister in its beak. Suddenly, the flight of the raven was interrupted. A feathered ball, coming from the side of the setting sun, hit him hard. It was a falcon that had already given up hope to eat something for dinner - but then it seized the raven in its claws. The strawberry fell from his beak and gently splashed against the surface of the lake. Zosia jumped and started her reckless run, hoping to catch the strawberry - especially that the water was very shallow at the shore where the fruit had fallen. She ran to the lake where, to her surprise, she saw her sister's head rising above the surface, greedily gasping for air. Zosia ran into the water, helping her beloved Tosia to get ashore. She didn't understand what happened. Only after some time, she learned from her grandfather who had just returned from a hunt, that the Lake of Truth was filled with magic water. Whoever immerses in it will never be able to lie again and will understand who he really is. The Lake of Truth returns people the truth about themselves - even if they try to pretend to be something completely different. The power of the lake turned out to work also for Zosia, who loved strawberries so much. Happy girls made a strawberry cake in the evening that tasted like nothing before. They ate it without waiting for it to cool down, devouring the last bites after it became dark. They did not see that an owl was watching them from a nearby poplar. Can birds smile? If someone had looked closely at the owl, he would have concluded that they could.

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- STRAWBERRIES BY KAMILA ROSIŃSKA -

Polish Version - Wersja Polska

TRUSKAWKA Był piękny, słoneczny dzień, lazurowe niebo roztaczało się majestatycznie nad Doliną Starego Młyna. Delikatnie zmierzwiona podmuchami wiatru tafla Jeziora Prawdy skrzyła się w delikatnych promieniach. Letni wietrzyk tańczył pomiędzy okiennicami, które poddając mu się, rytmiczne skrzypiały.

Nagle rozległo się pukanie w okienko. Siostry Tosia i Zosia wybiegły na ganek starego młyna, myśląc, że to jakiś niespodziewany gość. Jednak nikogo nie było. Na progu stał duży wiklinowy kosz z truskawkami. − Ale smacznie wyglądają, chyba nikt się nie pogniewa jak jedną spróbuję? – powiedziała Tosia. Jak pomyślała, tak zrobiła i w jednej chwili zamieniła się w czerwoną, malutką truskawkę, która wpadła do koszyka, ginąc wśród innych owoców. − O nie! – Wykrzyknęła wystraszona Zosia. − Tosiu?! Tosieńko! – wołała dziewczynka, ale zamiast siostry, stał przed nią wiklinowy kosz, wypełniony po brzegi soczystymi i mieniącymi się promieniach słońca, truskawkami. − Która z Was to moja Tosia? Jak mam Cię rozpoznać siostrzyczko? – wołała zapłakana dziewczynka. Całe zdarzenie widziała z drzewa puchata, stara Sowa. − Hu hu, hu hu, nie płacz dziecko. Zanim słońce zajdzie za taflę Jeziora Prawdy, Ty i Twoja siostra znów się zobaczycie. To powiedziawszy Sowa odwróciła starą, pierzastą głowę, i zerwała się do lotu majestatycznie trzepocząc wielkimi skrzydłami. − Też mi pocieszenie – prychnęła Zosia – chyba muszę Was zabrać do domu, bo jeszcze ktoś się skusi i przypadkiem zje moją małą Tosię – cichutko powiedziała Zosia podnosząc kosz z truskawkami. Ale co to?! Bęc !!! Zosia upadła potykając się o próg, a wszystkie truskawki potoczyły się po drewnianej podłodze młyna. Dziewczynka szybciutko je pozbierała i delikatnie postawiła kosz na stole. − Muszę Was tu na chwilę zostawić – powiedziała i pobiegła do swojego pokoju, by naszykować bezpieczne miejsce dla truskawek. W starej skrzyni pod oknem znajdował się piękny haftowany pled, który Zosia dostała od swojej babci i bardzo go lubiła. Dziewczynka położyła się na chwilę obok skrzyni. Jak rozpoznać siostrzyczkę w ciżbie innych owoców? – zastanawiała się Zosia. I co się stanie, jeśli nie uda się jej tego zrobić, zanim truskawki zaczną tracić swoją świeżość? Wpadający przez otwarte okno wietrzyk smyrał jej policzki, a pod kocykiem zrobiło się tak przytulnie i ciepło, że pomimo zmartwienia szybko zasnęła. Zachodzące słońce nie zdążyło się zetknąć z taflą jeziora, kiedy do pokoju wleciał kruk. Wylądował obok koszyka z truskawkami i chwilę mu się przyglądał, jakby chciał wybrać tę najbardziej soczystą i apetyczną. 110 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Siostrzany instynkt sprawił, że Zosia wyczuła zagrożenie. Szybko otworzyła oczy i kiedy zobaczyła wielkiego czarnego ptaka, z truskawką w dziobie, serce załomotało jej jak dzwon na niedzielną mszę. – Nie! – zdołała wykrzyknąć przez ściśnięte gardło. Spłoszony kruk zerwał się do lotu i wyfrunął przez okno, nie wypuszczając truskawki z dzioba. Przerażona Zosia wybiegła przed młyn, patrząc rozdygotana jak kruk zmierza nad taflę Jeziora Prawdy. Czuła, że ptak bezbłędnie wybrał truskawkę, która była najbliższa jej sercu i leci teraz nad jeziorem z jej siostrą w dziobie. Nagle, lot kruka został przerwany, bo uderzyła w niego, nadciągające od strony zachodzącego słońca, pierzasta kula. To sokół, który już stracił nadzieję, że zdoła coś zjeść na kolację, schwycił kruka w swoje szpony. Truskawka wypadła mu z dzioba i delikatnie plumknęła o taflę jeziora. Zosia zerwała się do szaleńczego biegu, z nadzieję, że zdoła wyłowić truskawkę, tym bardziej, że przy brzegu, gdzie wpadł owoc, woda była bardzo płytka. Podbiegła do jeziora, i jakież było jej zdziwienie, gdy zobaczyła, wynurzającą ponad taflę, głowę swojej siostry, zachłannie chwytającą ustami powietrze. Zosia wbiegła do wody, pomagając ukochanej Tosi wyjść na brzeg. Nie rozumiała co się stało. Dopiero po jakimś czasie dowiedziała się od dziadka, który wrócił z polowania, że Jezioro Prawdy, jest wypełnione czarodziejską wodą. Kto raz się w niej zanurzy, już nigdy nie będzie potrafił skłamać i zrozumie, kim jest naprawdę. Jezioro Prawdy przywraca bowiem ludziom prawdę o nich samych, nawet jeśli starali się udawać, że są kimś zupełnie innym. Jak się okazało, moc jeziora zadziałała również w przypadku Zosi, która tak bardzo uwielbiała truskawki. Szczęśliwe dziewczynki zrobiły wieczorem ciasto truskawkowe, które smakowało im jak żadne inne na świecie. Zjadły je, nie czekając aż wystygnie, ostatnie kęsy pochłaniając już po zmroku. Nie widziały, że z pobliskiej topoli obserwuje je sowa. Czy ptaki potrafią się uśmiechać? Gdyby ktoś bacznie przyjrzał się sowie, stwierdziłby, że chyba jednak tak.

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people

follow Katy: e-mail: info@katycarr.com info: www.katycarr.com tweet: www.twitter.com/katycarrmusic follow: www.facebook.com/katycarrmusic photos: www.instagram.com/katycarrmusic videos: www.youtube.com/katycarrmusic

Katy Carr POLISH ROOTS Katy Carr is an award-winning British recording artist who has released six albums to date. Her recent albums ‘Paszport’ (2012) and ‘Polonia’ (2015) are inspired by the Polish WWII experience. In 2016 Katy was awarded the ‘Pro Patria’ medal for her humanitarian and musical work. She is also an Ambassador of Polish history in Great Britain. Amongst literary and other works that inspired this latest album were George Orwell's 'Nineteen Eighty-Four' and 'England Your England', Oscar Wilde's 'The Nightingale and the Rose' as well as Witold Pilecki's first comprehensive intelligence report (1943) on the atrocities committed at Auschwitz.

"My fascination with Poland originates with my Polish mother and her family’s history and connections with fighting for freedom against totalitarianism during and post WWII. Poland’s catastrophic fate lay with the Molotov - Ribbentrop agreement otherwise known as the HitlerStalin Pact signed on 23rd Aug 1939. This agreement was drawn up by both Germany and Soviet Union to invade Poland, steal and enslave invasions on 1st Sept and 17th Sept 1939 and . I’m British born with Polish roots, My mother Krystyna was Polish (1947-2018) and was fiercely proud of her Polish roots and was born in Bielsko-Biala which is in south Poland from the Beskidy mountain range. She escaped totalitarian communism in the 1970s and was determined that I would be born in the safety and freedom of Great Britain. My mother passed away recently RIP and her final request was to be buried in her beloved Poland and I ensured that her final wish was realised. My early memories of Poland were in the Beskidy mountains with my mother and there as a little girl I cemented my love for the country. My Babcia grandmother Joanna was a ‘Goralka’ a Polish highlander and was born in Międzybrodzie Bialskie. It was a notoriously dangerous place to live in WWII as it was where the SS took their summer vacations. She had nine children although two passed away due to starvation in WWII. Her role during the war was working undercover to help the Polish Home Army ‘Armia Krajowa’. She was very proud of the Polish soldiers and partisans and hid them, including as my grandfather who escaped from Auschwitz concentration camp (Prisoner no 22661). Without my Grandfather’s escape I would not be here today. History was very important to my grandmother and she was a deeply religious Catholic woman. She was the first person to teach me Polish songs and I remember listening to her beautiful ‘Gorale’ highlander voice and amazing knowledge of Polish songs. Her her colourful folklore headscarf and Polish highlander character was a great inspiration to me and I remember her strength. I lived with my mother and English/Scottish father in Włocławek until we moved to England when I was 5 years old. I was always aware of my Polish roots through hearing my mother speak Polish however my connection with the country grew distant as I began to integrate with the British way of life and culture."

Katy Carr www.instagram.com/sielskie_inscenizacje

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Our magazine is mainly dedicated to tourism, but we are also trying to give it a character that would be a link for Poles (sometimes in the 2nd or 3rd generation) scattered all over the world. I must admit that Katy has always been a mystery to me, ranging from her stage (but also private) appearance to her music and involvement in Polish history. Katy, I think what you do and the way you do it is rather more characteristic of the former emigration, I mean a kind of 'innocence' and a kind of fascination with Polish history. I do not see such enthusiasm in the eyes of the contemporary émigré generation… do you think that my opinion is justified? (you once said yourself that you are "an ambassador for the new Poland”). Would you say that being away from your country of origin has actually made you more patriotic and interested in the nation’'s past? What history means to you ? (I know many questions in one :). Katy Carr: I'm an award winning British songwriter and for the last decade I have been rediscovering my Polish roots via writing songs, releasing a trilogy of albums Paszport-Polonia-Providence and performing to my global audience across Poland, Europe, Great Britain, USA. The main inspiration for my recent rediscovery of my Polish roots came via a story of escape by Polish boy scout Kazimierz ‘Kazik’ Piechowski from Auschwitz concentration camp on 20th June 1942. Kazik drove out with three political prisoners in the camp commandant’s car and I wrote a song called ‘Kommander’s Car’ which was inspired by the last 80m of his escape. My song was produced by Nick Crofts and the music video was directed by the British filmmaker Hannah Lovell. If you look closely you will be able to see Kazik in the car! www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqvhgS00UdA Meeting Kazik and writing ‘Kommander’'s Car’ was a pivotal moment for my creativity as it also led to the creation of our film Kazik and the Kommander's Car www.kazikfilm.com. Kazik injected me with his love of Poland and patriotism and introduced me to the deep and rich topic of Polish history for the first time. He inspired me to write my 4th album Paszport (2012) which I dedicate to him and learn Polish patriotic songs of the Polish Home Army – Armia Krajowa including Dziś do ciebie przyjść nie mogę (The Partisan’s Lullaby ) and O mój rozmarynie (Oh my Rosemary) and to explore the Polish freedom fighters from WWII including the Polish pilot ace of the Battle of Britain General Skalski, Polish 1st Armoured Division tank commander General Stanisław Maczek, SEO Agent General Elżbieta Zawacka. I have written over 50 songs about the Polish WWII experience and these appear on my Polish trilogy. I bring a fresh approach to the topic of Polish history as I write from a British songwriting perspective and integrate the music of English folk lyricism, klezmer, 1930s lyricism and storytelling. I’ve had an interest in ancestral history ever since I was a little girl as my ancestors were fierce freedom fighters and fought hard for their right to be free.

‘Carr is a fine example of that much-maligned beast we call authenticity...never less than immaculate.’ Sunday Times Culture Magazine

My Polish mother Krystyna escaped the totalitarian Communist Iron Curtain regime so that I could be born in the safety of Great Britain. My Polish grandmother Joanna who was a Goralka (Polish highlander) hid my grandfather Jozef after his escape from Auschwitz in the Polish mountains. On my British side my Great grandfather escaped with Churchill in the Boer War and was awarded the Star, British War and Victory medals for his WW1 service. TLP: Let's move on to music. When I had the opportunity to talk to you before the pandemic started, I got the impression that music, your music, is almost the most important thing for you. What role does music play in your life and do you think that music is an interesting or effective way of communicating ideas or broader communication? Katy Carr: Music has always been in my life and the first time I remember singing was in the Polish mountains with my Goralka Polish highlander mother and grandmother. Music from the Polish mountains inspired me as a child and transformed my view of the world. I love singing and making music is now my life as I am a professional musician and songwriter. My Polish roots begin with my mother Krystyna who was born in Bielsko-Biała , south Poland which lies within the Beskid mountain range. She was fiercely proud of her Polish roots, escaped the totalitarian Iron Curtain Communist regime and was determined that I would be born in the safety and freedom of Great Britain. My mother passed away recently RIP (1947-2018) and her final request was to be buried in her beloved Poland and I ensured that her wish was realised. She is buried at the Cmentarz rzymskokatolicki parafii pw. św. Mikołaja in Bielsko-Biała with my grandmother and great grandmother.

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My first memories of Poland were in the Beskidy mountains with my mother and there I cemented my love for the country. My Babcia (grandmother) Joanna was a ‘Goralka’ a Polish highlander and was born in Międzybrodzie Bialskie which was a notoriously dangerous place to live in WWII as it was where the SS took their summer vacations. She had nine children although two passed away due to starvation in WWII. Her role during the war was working undercover to help the Polish Home Army ‘Armia Krajowa’. She was very proud of the Polish soldiers and partisans and hid them even though it held a death penalty including my grandfather who escaped from Auschwitz concentration camp (Prisoner no 22661). Her actions ensured my Grandfather’s escape and survival which meant that my Polish blood lineage was saved. History was very important to my grandmother and she was a deeply religious Catholic woman. She was the first person to teach me Polish songs and I remember listening to her beautiful ‘Gorale’ highlander voice and amazing knowledge of Polish songs. Her colourful folklore headscarf and Polish highlander character was a great inspiration to me and I remember her strength. I lived with my mother and English/Scottish father in Włocławek until we moved to England when I was 5 years old. I was always aware of my Polish roots through hearing my mother speak Polish however my connection with the country grew distant as I began to integrate with the British way of life and culture. It was through my connection with Kazik that I had the opportunity to rediscover my Polish roots and relearn the language. I had at that point near but forgotten every word of my child Polish and had lost contact with my Polish family after my grandmother died. My album Paszport was a way to express my deep love of Poland in the form of a song ‘love letter’ which was to express the joy of patriotism together with the sadness of separation and tragic trauma of WWII. My songs cover topics such as the effects of the Hitler-Stalin pact otherwise known as the Molotov-Ribbentrop agreement originally signed on 23rd Aug 1939 which saw Poland enslaved by the two superpowers Germany and the Soviet Union. The title of the album Paszport came from the catastrophic reality for many Poles that their Polish passports were no longer valid during and post WWII. The German invasion on 1st September 1939 and the Soviet invasion on 17th Sept 1939, left Poland massacred, enslaved and alone. I wrote the songs for Paszport in both the English and Polish languages. I wanted the sound to be reminiscent of the Polish Partisans as described to me by Kazik’s time after his escape from Auschwitz and during his service with the Armia Krajowa. I chose a lineup of folk instruments with klezmer influences from Guy Schalom on percussion helping to build soundscapes such as on Poland Panorama to the joyful stomp of the cello on the song ‘Wojtek’ inspired by the infamous soldier bear mascot of the Polish II Corps.

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I was inspired to write songs of independence including Chodźmy, Partyzanci! (Let's Go Partisans!) and songs of loss: Paszport, Weronika, Poland Panorama, Mala Little Flower which grieve for the loss of loved ones and a country in the ruin of war. Red Red Rose pays homage to the two million Poles who were kidnapped from their homes transported for slave labour in Stalin’s Gulag concentration camps across the Soviet Union. Travelling to You is dedicated to the exiled Poles who remained aliens post WWII and had no chance of ever returning home. TLP: I would also like to ask you about the universality of your music. I heard in one of your interviews that when you performed the song "Wojtek" (story about Polish bear who served in Polish army during the word war II) in China and you thought that the message of the song was lost. Do you think that what inspires you in your music and its message can sometimes be incomprehensible to a wider audience? Katy Carr: My trilogy of albums inspired by Poland have opened many opportunities to me and I have been able to perform my music across Great Britain, Poland, Europe, USA. My audiences are intrigued by the universality of the storytelling within the songs. I have attracted listeners from as far away as Cuba, Mexico, Siberia, Australia, Afghanistan, Israel, South Africa, Persia, North Ireland and Iraq. When I headlined the Charlie Gillett stage at Womad music festival nearly 3000 people were singing along to Hej Sokoły and audiences as far as China have sung along to my song Wojtek. I try to make song melodies that encourage audiences to sing along.In China the story of Wojtek the soldier bear led to the audience bringing bear costumes and the joy people had singing along transcended any language barriers. TLP: You have recently released a new album called "Providence" and as you say it is the last part of the "Polish" trilogy. (later you will find information about the album). What musical direction do you want to go now? Katy Carr: I’ve been hugely inspired by the WWII experience in Poland for the last decade and now I would like to focus on learning the Polish language through singing songs written by the great composers of the Syrena Rekord Company of 1930s Poland including Marian Hemar and Henryk Wars. During lockdown I performed the finale concert for Polish Heritage Days 2021 where I gave a ‘lecture concert’ giving introductions to my songs and singing my favourite songs from the Syrena archive.

Watch the concert here: POSK Online: Katy Carr: Polish-British Stories for Polish Heritage Days 2021 www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXL_piCBiac

art & history

www.katycarr.com tweet: www.twitter.com/katycarrmusic follow: www.facebook.com/katycarrmusic photos: www.instagram.com/katycarrmusic videos: www.youtube.com/katycarrmusic

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Katy Carr’s New Album, ‘PROVIDENCE’ Concludes Polish Roots Trilogy. Deluce Recordings

Katy Carr's sixth studio album Providence was inspired initially by a dream sequence that the award-winning singer songwriter remembers upon waking. Themes around water - including songs about taking in Hampstead’'s Ladies’ Pond and miracles on the River Vistula - good versus evil, fighting for freedom as well as love and death are explored. The new album creates the third and final chapter in her Polish roots rediscovery trilogy initiated by her fourth album, ‘Paszport’ (2012). Katy believes that the people she has met along the way have been linked through providence and that her experiences have been synchronised through fate. Picture yourself through the new album’s release, transported back to Hampstead post World War II sometime around 1947, where you are hosting a party at Erno Goldfinger’s house for the elite thinkers, writers, military leaders of Britain and Poland throughout the ages. The Cold War has begun and Stalin has sealed his Iron Curtain stamp on Europe. Then you hear Edgar Rice Burroughs’ voice repeating over and over again - “Am I alive and a reality, or am I but a dream?” A young George Orwell then discusses in great detail the current tragedy of ‘HERO TO ZEЯO’ and the ‘Western Betrayal of Poland’ with a Nobel Peace Prize laureate (Czesław Miłosz) and Polish resistance fighter (Witold Pilecki). For nearly a decade, Carr has been making in-roads to rediscover the land of her mother’s birth, Poland - learning the Polish language and history of a rich and diverse heritage. Underlying this Polish mission has been her personal quest to understand her own family’s inter-generational trauma from both a British and Polish WWII experience. This has resulted in family estrangement and led her to develop a songwriting and performance career.

The ten songs on the album reflect the immense need the singer had for strong role model characters that could become her friends and family and demonstrate survival techniques through their own life histories, trials and experiences. Nottingham-born Carr says she learnt that at the heart of every story was a quest for inner enlightenment, freedom and peace. With the album’s other tracks, ‘BOADICEA’ praises Queen Elizabeth I, aka ‘THE VIRGIN QUEENE’ on her defeat of the Spanish Armada and then they all then head off to ‘THE LADIES’ POND’ for a swim. ‘AFTERWARDS’ … and you see a little girl born into poverty in the Polish mountains who will eventually become your mother. ‘THAT LITTLE DEVIL’ , that is your grandfather, suffers from Auschwitz syndrome and inflicts immeasurable cruelty upon his family. Queen Wanda of Poland then tells you to keep the 'MIRACLE ON THE VISTULA’, a secret in a box under the water and never to utter a word. You hear ‘A BEAUTIFUL SONG FOR YOU’ sung by Oscar Wilde’'s brave nightingale, whose song - once so strong has now faded into the distance as her heart is pierced by a thorn and loses its precious life force. As you awaken with the dawn, a bloom of a red rose reminds you that this strange and yet compelling dream/nightmare sequence is continuing to spiral. Your head is awash with coded messages from the ‘HEJ SOKOŁY’ peregrine falcons. Subsequently you dash for your notebook and scribble down as much as you can remember. There must be a meaning to all of this, you say to yourself. Your senses are heightened, for you know the muse has spoken. Now your only job is to decipher her messages and translate them into a ‘FREEDOM SONG’.

VISIT KATY'S STORE WWW.KATYCARR.COM/SHOP 120 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

And he takes my hair, and it's golden And he takes my hand, and I'm dancing He says: Mała mała mała little flower, you're the wonder for me "Mała little Flower" Artist: Katy Carr Album: Paszport Released: 2012

ARCHIVES KRAKÓW – THE

MARKET SQUARE

Title: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1872-1875

WWW.CT.MHK.PL

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It is the largest medieval square in Europe. Measuring approximately 200 metres by 200 metres, it was laid out when the city received its charter in 1257. Unlike the Cloth Hall, he Town Hall and the town houses that border the square, the churches of St Maryand St Adalbert were built before the charter and so are not aligned with the sides of the Main Market Square. The vital addition to the square is the monument of Adam Mickiewicz, designed in 1898 by Teodor Rygier. Looking at the restored colourful townhouses and mansions surrounding the square it is hard to believe that they are 500-600 years old. The Grey House (Szara Kamienica) at no. 6 deserves a closer look. Legend has it that it was donated by King Casimir the Great to his mistress, Sarah. The Pod Krzysztofory Palace at no. 35 is noteworthy as kings John Casimir, Michał Korybut Wiśniowiecki and Duke Józef Poniatowski all stayed there at one time or other, and from it there is a wonderful panorama of the Main Market Square with St Mary's Church, the Town Hall Tower, Adam Mickiewicz's monument and the Cloth Hall. The Pod Baranami Palace (Rams' Palace) at no. 27 is the home of a popular cabaret. House No. 15 is renowned for its restaurant, Wierzynek, whose traditions go back to a famous feast held at the house in 1364. In September 2010 under the Main Market Square, the biggest European underground museum, with around 4,000m², containing a modern multimedia exhibition entitled 'Following the traces of Krakow's European identity' and a tourist route situated 4metres below ground, was finally opened. PHOTOS: above: the Main Market Square - detail below left: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1879-1882 below right: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1879

the past history of the Main Square Photos & Digitalisation: www.ct.mhk.pl, public domain

The main function of the Market Square was commerce. After the city was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in 1241, the Main Square was rebuilt in 1257 and its commercial role expanded with the Magdeburg rights location of the city by the prince of Kraków, Bolesław V the Chaste. The Main Square was designed in its current state with each side repeating a pattern of three, evenly spaced streets set at right angles to the square. The exception is Grodzka Street which is much older and connects the Main Square with the Wawel Castle. Originally the square was filled with low market stalls and administrative buildings and had a ring road running around it. It was King Casimir III the Great who built the original Gothic Cloth Hall and the town hall that filled nearly a quarter of the square. Kraków was the capital of the Kingdom of Poland and a member of the Hanseatic League and the city flourished as an important European metropolis. In addition to its original merchant functions the Main Square witnessed many historical events, and it was used to stage public executions of prisoners held in the city's Town Hall. It was a place of regal ceremonies as part of the Royal Road (Droga Królewska), frequented by diplomats and dignitaries traveling to Wawel Castle. In 1364 King Casimir held the Pan-European Congress of Kraków there. On 10 April 1525, Albert I, Duke of Prussia paid the Prussian Homage to Sigismund I the Old, king of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania, accepting Polish kings' suzerainty, (pictured). In 1514 Lithuanian duke Konstanty Ostrogski held a victory parade over the Muscovy and in 1531 nobleman Jan Tarnowski celebrated another victory in the Muscovite wars. Jan III Sobieski, a King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania, celebrated there his victory over the Turkish Empire in the 1683 Battle of Vienna

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In 1978 UNESCO placed the Main Square as part of the Old Town Kraków on the list of World Heritage Sites. On 21 March 1980, in a time of political tension and the run-up to the declaration of Martial Law in Poland, Walenty Badylak, a retired baker and a veteran of Poland's wartime underground Home Army, set himself alight chained to a well in the Main Square. Badylak was protesting the communist government's refusal to acknowledge the Katyn war crime. Also, the Main Square was central in staging mass demonstrations of the Solidarity movement. In 2013 Lonely Planet travel guides rated Kraków's Main Market Square as the most beautiful in the world. Originally the market square consisted of more structures that were crucial to the economy and political life of the city and thus created a microcosm of the city. The Kraków Town Hall existed since the medieval era and was destroyed in the 19th century. Also standing next to the Cloth Hall was the Great Weigh House and the Small Weigh House, which both existed until the 19th century. The foundations of the weigh houses were excavated in the early 21st century and incorporated into an underground museum. Since its creation, the level of the Market Square has raised, in some places by over 5 metres. Underneath there are large basements, the most famous of which is the Piwnica pod Baranami. Many cellars are now transformed into pubs and restaurants; other include the Theater Maszkaron and a small archeological museum in the basement of the St. Adalbert's church. There are passages linking some of the basements, such as the one linking the Town Hall Tower with the Cloth Hall. The Hall itself has a little-known underground trading hall, 100 meters wide and 5 meters high. Near Sienna Street there is another underground hall, with 1,200 square metres of trading area.

left: the Main Market Square. right: Author/Supplier: Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1882-1884

PHOTOS: the Main Square Krieger Ignacy (1817-1889), Zakład Fotograficzny Ignacy Krieger Creation Time: 1882-1884

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek

—

orientalist,

culinary

culture

scholar, head of Food Studies at the SWPS University, author of the following

books:

Culinary

Traditions

Japan,

Japanese

Sweets,

Culinary Traditions of Korea, Polish Culinary Paths, Culinary Traditions of Finland, Deserownik and The Polish Table. Recipient of many Gourmand World

Cookbook

Awards,

Prix

Littérature

Gastronomique,

the

Chinese Diamond Cuisine Award and Magellan Award. She researches the history of cuisines, anthropology of food, culinary diplomacy and tourism. She conducts meetings gives lectures, cooking classes and writes the blog Kuchniokracja. She promoted Polish culinary culture in China, Thailand, Vietnam, Moldova and on Jersey Island.

CONTACT: m.tomaszewska@hanami.pl The table is not only a piece of furniture. It is also often the centre of a culinary universe around which people sit to talk, laugh and enjoy food. It’s a magical place where tradition meets the present day. We often don’t

realise

how

many

fascinating

stories

are

connected

our

photo: Marta Pańczyk

favourite dishes and ingredients, yet flavours, smells and stories have a long-lasting

place

our

memory.

Discovering

the

world

through

culinary culture is a wonderful adventure. I invite you to sit at the table – the Polish table.

www.bunkatura.pl/the-polish-table www.bunkatura.pl/mesa-polaca

The Polish Table – Mesa Polaca –

POLISH TABLE by Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek

Chocolate Cake with Strawberries and Chocolate Cream Cake: 100g dark chocolate 120g sugar 100g butter 4 eggs

Separate the egg whites from the yolks and beat them with sugar. Melt the chocolate with butter. Add egg yolks to chocolate and mix well. Mix batter with whipped whites. Pour the batter into a baking tin (20 cm) and bake it for 35 minutes in an oven preheated to 180 degrees. Do not grease the rim of the tin with butter, and the dough will stick to the tin, and during cooling down it will form a nice hollow for the cream. Before removing the cake from the tin, the edges must be cut with a knife. Chocolate cream: 100 g of heavy cream 100 g of dark chocolate strawberries

Melt the chocolate in a water bath. Add cream to the slightly cooled chocolate and mix thoroughly. Put strawberries on top of the cake. Put the cake in the fridge for 2 hours.

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photo: Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek

visual guide monasteries in Poland TOP 12 to see

guide by: lovePoland

1. The Jasna Góra Monastery in Częstochowa, is a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary and one of the country's places of pilgrimage. The image of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa, also known as Our Lady of Częstochowa, to which miraculous powers are attributed, is one of Jasna Góra's most precious treasures. Every year since the Middle Ages, thousands of Poles go in pilgrim groups to visit Jasna Góra. In 2011, it was estimated that 3.2 million pilgrims from 80 countries around the world went to the shrine. Around 830,000 pilgrims took part in 228 pilgrimages organized in different places across Poland, 143, 983 of which reached the monastery on foot. The average distance for a pilgrim group to travel is about 350 kilometres (217 miles), made in 11 days. 2. The Benedictine monastery on the Święty Krzyż (Holy Cross) peak is a historical monument of extraordinary importance for the Polish culture and heritage - primarily due to its historical and religious significance. Location woj. świętokrzyskie, pow. kielecki, gm. Nowa Słupia – gmina wiejska. 3. Camaldolese Hermit Monastery in Kraków is a Camaldolese priory in Bielany in Kraków. The monastery is located on the 326-metre Silver Mount. It consists of hermitages and the Assumption of Mary Church. The Camaldolese monks were invited to settle in Bielany by Grand Court Marshal Mikołaj Wolski in 1603. 4. Benedictine abbey in Tyniec is the oldest existing monastery in Poland which continues the Benedictine tradition - a site which figures prominently in the history of Poland from almost the very beginning of Polish statehood. From the first half of the 11th century onwards, the monastery played the role of an important centre for missionary activities as well as for liturgical and cultural life. In addition, it also bore witness to many significant political events and had links with numerous historical figures. 128 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

5. Lubiąż is a village on the east bank of the Odra River, in the administrative district of Gmina Wołów, within Wołów County, Lower Silesian Voivodeship. The village is mainly known for its large abbey. The Abbey was built by the Benedictines in 1150, and occupied by Cistercians in 1163 until 1810. Built over centuries, the abbey – the largest Cistercian abbey in the world – is rated in the highest class ("0") of landmarks of world's cultural heritage. Lubiąż is also known in Poland for its regional psychiatric hospital. 6. Cistercian Abbey in Henryków. The Cistercian presence in Henryków dates back to 1227 when the first monks arrived from Lubiąż. Soon after founding the abbey, it was devastated by Tatar incursion of 1241, and later looted during Hussite Wars at the beginning of the 15th Century, and during the Thirty Years’ War in the first half of the 17th Century. The tour of the monastery complex will take approx. 1 hour (not including the church, the gardens and the park). To visit the church, please make an appointment with the parish priest (entrance to the presbytery at the back of the church). On photo: Tyniec Abbey

Camaldolese Monastery in Wigry

Olsztyn

Cistercian Monastery in Kołbacz

Warszawa

Cistercian Abbey in Sulejów Cistercian Abbey in Lubiąż

Cistercian Monastery in Wąchock

Wrocław Jasna Góra

Cistercian Abbey in Henryków

1 Monastery

6 Cistercian Abbey in Rudy

Abbey on the Holy Cross in Nowa Słupia

Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec

Dominican Monastery

Kraków

9 in Krasnobród Monastery of the Camaldolese Monks in Kraków

created by lovePoland

7. More than 700-year-old Cistercian monastery and palace complex is a former historic Romanesque-Gothic Cistercian abbey in Rudy - a village located in Racibórz County in Silesia. It was founded in 1253 by Prince Ladislaus of Opole, who brought the Cistercians from Jędrzejów to Rudy.

10. Sulejów Abbey (Polish: Opactwo Cystersów w Sulejowie) was a Cistercian abbey founded in 1176 by the duke Kazimierz II the Just. The town of Sulejów grew up round it. The most notable parts of the abbey are: the Romanesque church of Saint Thomas Becket of Canterbury, the Romanesque fortifications which stopped the Mongol in the 13th century.

8. The monastery in Wąchock was built at the turn of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. It is one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in Poland. The founder of the abbey was in 1179 the Bishop of Krakow Gedeon (Gedko). The builder of the abbey was Simon, of Italian origin. The monastery was destroyed twice by Tatar invasions. Thanks to the strength of will and hard work, the nun slowly brought him back to its former glory.

11. Cistercian Monastery in Kołbacz: this place has a special place in the history of Danish-Polish relations through the ages. To the newly constructed Cistercian monastery in Kołbacz arrived in 1174 Cistercian monks from Esrum Monastery in Denmark with the mission of Christianizing the inhabitants of Pomerania. In 1210 they began the building of the present church, which is still popularly called “the Danish church”.

9. Dominican monastery with the church of Marian apparition in Krasnobrod located in the eastern part of the city Podklasztorze. The church was built in baroque style in 16901699 gg., Designed by Michael Link It, and built on the initiative of Mary Sobieski, on the s vows a return to life.

12. The Pokamedulski Monastery is located on a hill above Lake Wigry. Formerly one of the richest buildings of this type in Europe. This 17th-century building now offers visitors many attractions. You can visit the John Paul II Museum, the clock tower and the crypts where the monks were once buried. 129 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

BY: KAMIL PALUSZEK

CERKWIE W POLSCE POŁUDNIOWO-WSCHODNIEJ Photos: Kamil Paluszek Introduction: Jarosław Giemza, Damian Nowak Publisher: Wydawnictwo Libra PL Album size: 24x30cm, 496 pages published by Libra, Buy here: www.libra.pl

To książka o pięknie i misterium Cerkwi. Zostały w niej zaprezentowane fotografie niemal dwustu obiektów z tej części historycznej eparchii przemyskiej, która po II wojnie światowej znalazła się w granicach Polski oraz kilka świątyń położonych na południowym krańcu diecezji chełmskiej. Wertując karty albumu, stajemy się uczestnikami wyjątkowej wędrówki szlakiem cerkwi, przez Łemkowszczyznę, Bieszczady, Pogórza oraz Roztocze Wschodnie, aż po południową część Lubelszczyzny. Pomimo zniszczeń jakie miały miejsce po 1947 roku, na obszarze południowowschodniej Polski zachowało się kilkaset cerkwi. To swoisty fenomen, świadczący o dawnej wielokulturowości tych ziem. Najstarsza – murowana świątynia w Posadzie Rybotyckiej, pochodzi z początku XV wieku, a najbardziej sędziwe drewniane cerkwie pamiętają XVI stulecie. Służą dzisiaj prawosławnym, grekokatolikom i rzymskim katolikom. Szczególna wartość kilku z nich została doceniona poprzez wpis na listę światowego dziedzictwa UNESCO dokonany w 2013 roku. Są to znane wszystkim cerkwie w Radrużu, Chotyńcu, Smolniku nad Sanem, Turzańsku, Owczarach, Brunarach, Kwiatoniu i Powroźniku. Jednak nie tylko te najbardziej zabytkowe, ale każda z przedstawionych w albumie świątyń urzeka swym pięknem. Z wieloma z nich, oddalonymi od uczęszczanych szlaków turystycznych, dzięki tej monumentalnej publikacji spotkamy się po raz pierwszy. Album ,,Cerkwie w Polsce południowo-wschodniej” to owoc wielu lat pracy i tysięcy godzin fotografowania. Jak pisze Jarosław Giemza, wyśmienity znawca sztuki cerkiewnej: Zaproszenie do spotkania z Cerkwią, jakie kieruje do nas Kamil Paluszek jest intuicyjną a zarazem kształtowaną latami umiejętnością dzielenia się pięknem i wrażliwością na nie. Autor tych fotografii wpisuje Świątynię w krajobraz, aby za chwilę schylić się po drobiazg, którego nie dostrzegli inni. Ten album sprawi, że baczniej rozejrzymy się wokół i zadziwi nas to umykało naszej uwadze, albo uważaliśmy za znane.

It is a book about the beauty and mystery of the Orthodox Church. It presents photographs of almost two hundred objects from this part of the historical Przemyśl eparchy, which after World War II became part of Poland, and several churches located at the southern end of the Chełm diocese. By browsing through the pages of the album, we become participants in a unique journey along the route of the church, through the Lemko region, Bieszczady, Pogórze and Roztocze Wschodnie, to the southern part of the Lublin region. Despite the damage that took place after 1947, several hundred churches have survived in south-eastern Poland. This is a peculiar phenomenon that proves the former multiculturalism of these lands. The oldest - a brick church in Posada Rybotycka dates from the beginning of the 15th century, and the oldest wooden churches date back to the 16th century. Today they serve Orthodox, Greek Catholics and Roman Catholics. The special value of several of them was appreciated by the entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013. These are the well-known churches in Radruż, Chotyniec, Smolnik on the San, Turzańsk, Owczary, Brunary, Kwiatoń and Powroźnik. However, not only the most historic, but each of the temples presented in the album enchants with its beauty. Thanks to this monumental publication, we will meet for the first time with many of them, far from the frequented tourist routes. The album "Cerkwie w South-Eastern Poland" is the result of many years of work and thousands of hours of shooting. As Jarosław Giemza, an excellent expert on the art of the Orthodox Church, writes: The invitation to a meeting with the Orthodox Church, which Kamil Paluszek sends to us, is intuitive, and at the same time shaped the ability throughout years to share beauty and sensitivity to it. The author of these photos inserts the Temple into the landscape, only to bend down for a little detail that others did not notice. This album will make us look around more closely and it will amaze us that we missed it, or we considered it known.

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