Travel Love Poland Magazine – September 2020

SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2020 | VOL 1 | ISSUE 13 ISSN 2515-8503

travel.lovePoland

through the lens

The South It is the prettiest corner on earth to me. Beautiful because of its nature. Hospitable because of its inhabitants. Ideally created for tourists. It is definitely my place on earth. I have always returned here. I have constantly been astonished at the enchanting natural beauty of the Sądecki Beskid Mountains and at the diverse tourist routes, so different from the beaten and crowded trails of the Tatra or Pieniny Mountains.

Janusz Wańczyk

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LOG-OFF AND REST. A mysterious weekend on Grand Lakes of Masuria!

A 5-day horse ride through the beautiful wilderness of Bieszczady.

Saddle your horse and go through the Połoniny fields, rivers, mountains and woods. During the trip you will pass ruins of orthodox churches and villages – silent witnesses of rough Polish-Ukrainian history.

We offer you a chance to slow down, log off from the digital world, and dive into nature. A cozy houses with apartments in tree crowns are waiting for you at the end of the world – The Grand Lakes of Masuria.

Here you calm down, relax, and recover your nerves. Far from the city rush, deep into the green nature, you will find peace and quiet.

CASTLEMANIA Experience the most exiting medieval castles in Poland!

CULTURAL POLAND Taste the Poland's classic itinerary served with a glass of adventure!

This adventure will take you deep into Silesian Medieval era. You will have chance to see and visit witnesses of rough history of Silesia region.

Splendid castles, breathtaking views, and wild nature provide unforgettable experience. You will visit castles Czocha, Grodziec, Chojnik, Książ. As a special attraction we provide a traditional medieval Polish feast!

This trip will let You discover Poland’s culture on its every plane. During 8 days of traveling you will visit astonishing places in the country, taste all the best Polish cuisine can offer, and experience history in the way you have never done before. Living culture in historical buildings, flavours of the past served in modern interiors, tradition and hospitality.

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RENTRAP RUOT

VOLUME 1 ISSUE 13

from the editor

Dear Readers, Once again, we invite you to visit Poland in the autumn season. I must admit that this is probably my favourite time of the year. The sun still shines beautifully and the landscape is filled with colours. This fullness of colours can be perhaps best admired in the southern part of Poland so, in the first place, we invite you there. Of course, we can't miss other places in Poland that we will encourage you to visit as well. So, let's start our adventure from visiting the mountains of Beskid Sądecki and the stories of Janusz Wańczyk, already familiar to you. Right after that, make a trip to the Low Beskids – probably the most 'wild' and peaceful part of our country. We are going to show it to you more often as it will be our future place on earth where we will settle down. From the vicinity of Gorlice, we invite you to see a photo report from the autumn sheep grazing (most of the photos were taken in the commune of Sękowa by Krystian Kiwacz). In the further part of the magazine, learn about the re-enactment of the greatest battle during World War I, which took place in Poland. This re-enactment is organised in Sękowa. As usual, we cannot miss the beautiful Polish nature – see photos by Włodzimierz Stachoń from the Dunajec River Valley. We have never written about one of the most tragic places in Polish land – the Nazi death camp Auschwitz (Oświęcim). We invited an inhabitant of Oświęcim to tell his story. We wanted a story about this town as a 'living' place. Today, Oświęcim wants to be perceived as a city of peace and reconciliation. It is impossible to describe all the content and photos in such a short introduction, but we encourage you to read the rest of the magazine.

See you in Poland in autumn. artur tomasz tureczek Editor-in-Chief Travel.LovePoland

Contributors to this issue: Krzysztof Borgieł, Jarosław Fiedor, Krystian Kiwacz, Ania Olesińska, Michał Piorun, Alexandra Rosiek, Maciej Sankowski - Poznańskie Muzeum Pyry, Dariusz Sirko and Azymut- Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Katarzyna Skóra, Łukasz Sowiński, Włodzimierz Stachoń, Agnieszka Suchy, Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek (kuchniokracja / hanami) and Janusz Wańczyk.

Our special thanks to: G m i n a S ę k o w a and the the commune head mgr inż. Małgorzata Małuch as well as Jacek Pięta Sękowa- Municipal Office, for a warm welcome and cooperation.

As always: our special BIG thanks to Kasia Śpiewankiewicz – graphic editor @britanniaweb.co.uk and Amber Acosta for your patience and support. Thank You. If you would like to support or cooperate with our magazine please contact us via: info@lovepoland.org

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND online magazine published by love Poland ltd Registered office address: 178 Mitcham Road, London, England, SW17 9NJ Company number 10956488 Company registered in England and Wales. British Library ISSN 2515-8503 Copyrights by love Poland ltd and/ or authors of photographs and texts as indicated. All photographs and texts are published under the exclusive permission granted to travel.lovePoland Magazine by their authors. Please do not copy or publish without authorisation.

WWW.LOVEPOLAND.ORG

the team

Amber, proof reading

Kasia, technical edditor

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T R A V E L . L O V E P O L A N D

M A G A Z I N E

VOL 1. ISSUE 13 SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2020

CONTENTS 0 5

1 8

5 8

6 8

7 6

Sądecczyzna colours of Autumn Janusz Wańczyk

Redyk Krystian Kiwacz

Sękowa. Reconstruction of the The Battle of Gorlice

A Rut in the Current of the River Włodzimierz Stachoń Oświęcim and Auschwitz Jarosław Fiedor

32 43 34 42 46 50 56 88 92 98 102 112 114

Music. Folk Footprints by Agnieszka Suchy Kraków by Anda Alexandra Rosiek Kazimierz Dolny- the town Gorges in Kazimierz Dolny Silver Mountain Fortress A tour guide: Bobolice castle Michał Piorun Lemko Healers by Katarzyna Skóra Świdnica Church Tartra's caves by Krzysztof Borgieł Poznań Museum of "Pyra" Orawa Back to school by Łukasz Sowiński the past: Puppets from the “Zielony Balonik” An Invitation to the Table: Magdalena Tomaszewska -Bolałek 118 Wild mushroom soup 120 Visual guide: open-air museums 122 Dariusz Sirko: book promo "Pocket History Of Poland"

photo on the front cover: Redyk, Krystian Kiwacz

J A N U S Z

W A Ń C Z Y K

S Ą D E C C Z Y Z N A C O L O U R S

O F

A U T U M N

www.janusz-wanczyk.pl

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photos: 1. Previous page: the wayside shrine on the acclivity Sikomnik, Przydonica 2. The Book

get your copy

www.facebook.com/ksiegarniaalfabet.nowysacz

06 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Janusz Wańczyk Sądecczyzna colours of Autumn It is the prettiest corner on earth to me. Beautiful because of its nature.

Hospitable because of its inhabitants. Ideally created for tourists. It is definitely my place on earth. I have always returned here. I have constantly been astonished at the enchanting natural beauty of the Sądecki Beskid Mountains and at the diverse tourist routes, so different from the beaten and crowded trails of the Tatra or Pieniny Mountains.

Perhaps the Sądecki Beskid is not as popular as the Podhale region, however, it is an advantage to me, as you can still find undiscovered areas and charming places which are a true delight to the eyes and soul. In the peak of the holiday season you can freely hike here without complaining about crowds. You can spend your leisure time to the fullest satisfaction and enjoyment, making use of all of the attractions which the region offers. You can truly spend your time here marvelling at the views and wonders of nature. Wooded places on trails are a good shelter from the heat of the sun and there are also extensive forest clearings, as well as observation towers.

My favorite places are the Obidza forest clearing, Little and Big Rogacz, the Żłobki Pass, and the Przehyba forest clearing (in the Radziejowa range). I would also add the lessfrequented trail from Łącko to Dzwonkówka with an observation tower on Koziarz Peak. In the Jaworzyna Krynicka range, in a clearing above a village of Wierchomla, I am waiting with my camera for a perfect moment to capture the majesty of the Tatras. I also recommend a route from Rytro to Hala Łabowska, a mountain hostel on Cyryla, Jaworzyna Kokuszańska Peak and the Zadnie Mountains.

This is an ideal place for a photographer as there is an observation tower in the shape of a snail in Wola Krogulecka, Połom Mountain above a village of Rytro with two windmills and a breathtaking view on the Poprad Valley.

You can often meet me in Piwowarówka, Jarzębki, Niemcowa, the scenic hamlets of Piwniczna. These are only some of the attractive corners of the Sądecki land, which are worth recommending.

The Sądecczyzna is not only famous for its natural attractions but also for its multiculturalism. Its monuments, found nowhere in other parts of Poland, underline the uniqueness of the region. Along the trails from Nowy Sącz leading through the villages of Królowa Górna, Bogusza, Binczarowa, Polany, Berest, to Piorunka and Czyrna, you can explore many charming rustic churches. These churches belonged to the Lemks, who once populated the territory of the Beskid Sądecki. A true gem is the orthodox church of Saint Younger James the Apostle in Powroźnik. It is the oldest wooden church, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Similar churches are in Wojkowa, Leluchów, Dubno. The southern extremity of the Sądecki land is the Leluchowskie Mountains, bordering Slovakia. At the foot of the mountains, the villages of Muszyna, Tylicz, Muszynka, Powroźnik are situated. You cannot forget the town of Krynica, which is called “The Pearl of Polish Spas”. Its name is derived from its outstanding mineral waters, thanks to which, the town was developed as a spa. You can taste the minerals in the main pump room. The town features charming buildings, wooden villas, and pensions, along with many other historical monuments. In winter it becomes the centre for winter sports; the slopes on Jaworzyna Mount, Słotwiny or Parkowa Mount wait for skiers. In summer, the spa becomes the centre for operetta because of the Jan Kiepura Festival. The Spa Orchestra also plays concerts. In September the town welcomes the heads of states to discuss the future of Europe during the Economic Forum.

Tourists have numerous hiking, cycling and horse trails at their disposal. They can also take a walk to the nearby picturesque villages, among which Muszyna stands out, experiencing a real renaissance now. The pride of the village is the Bible Gardens, Magic Gardens, and Sensory Gardens.

Suitably selected plants, silence, a light swoosh of trees, and water in the fountains can soothe your nerves and allow you escape from the hustle and bustle.

The next stops on the map of my photographic hikes are in Szczawnik, where there is the ski resort of Two Valleys, medieval Stary Sącz with the Poor Clare Monastery, and the wooden Papal Altar. This altar is the only original altar in Poland which commemorates Pope John Paul II's visit to Stary Sącz. The town has modern recreational ponds and the Bobrowisko natural enclave. To the pearls of the Nowy Sącz land, I also count in the following countrysides of Rytro, Piwniczna, and Żegiestów. Along the trails of the Poprad Valley there are wooden churches, the Lemks orthodox churches, and roadside chapels. The Sądeczyzna is not only its mountains. Another visit-worthy highlight is a water reservoir of Rożnowskie Lake. I have been exploring and photographing this place with a great passion for many years. Every day I am taken aback by its views and by its trails which I hike with great interest, hoping to take an original shot. I must admit I have never been disappointed. It is bordered on the south and east by the Sądecki Beskid and Island Beskid and on the west by the Low Beskid and Pogórze Ciężkowickie. The area is characterised small hills crisscrossed by deep valleys. The Stone Town is a pride of this area and the most diverse system of sandstone rock formations of unusual shapes. The whole region of Pogórze is dotted with remnants of historic fortified buildings such as ruins of castles from different historical epochs.

However, the most remarkable natural attractions of the region are Lake Rożnów and Czchowskie Lake. Pogórze Rożnowskie creates great opportunities for water sports lovers. The landmark of the lake is an island of "Grodzisko" or so-called "Małpia Wyspa" (Monkey Island), visible from a distance, which is a flora and fauna sanctuary.

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photos: 1. To the left: Lipie, Rożnowskie Lake 2. Top right: after an evening storm, a view of the Sądecka Valley from Koziarz, Beskid Sądecki 3. Znamirowice 4. The enclave of nature on the ponds of Stary Sącz, Borowisko In the villages of Rożnów and Gródek you can take a boat trip to admire rolling hills surrounding the lake. On the hill of Glinik, between Przydonnica and Gródek, under the majestic linden and chestnut trees, is an old chapel. It is also a fantastic place to take photos of spectacular views. A legend has it that King Jan III Sobieski took a rest there returning from the battle at Vienna. In these times he would be treated to different wine species produced in the nearby villages of Zbyszyce or Chodorowa. In search of beautiful places steeped in history, I landed on the trails of the Beskid Sądecki and Grybowskie Mountains. I have always visited Królowa Górna, Bogusza, Binczarowa, Polany, Berest, Piorunka, and Czyrna to have a look at wooden churches.

I will try to render the atmosphere of the places I have visited, the light leaking through small windows and stunningly beautiful iconostasis. In the end, I would like to recommend to you the capital city of the province, the town of Nowy Sącz. It is situated at the confluence of the three rivers of Dunajec, Kamienica 08 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Nowojowaska, and Poprad, and is surrounded by mountains from all its sides. It is my hometown, my place on earth, beautiful, and friendly for everyone. My hope is that all I have mentioned here you will discover in my photos in this album. I kindly invite you to visit this place, which is incredible and extraordinary to me. I am certain you will not feel disappointed, as the beauty of the landscape is truly impressive. You will be warmly welcome to the Sądecki Land!

Janusz Wanczyk

JANUSZ WAŃCZYK WWW.JANUSZ-WANCZYK.PL

Sprinklers bring cool on hot days

photos:

1. Chapel, Jarzębaki, Piwniczna-Zdrój Province 2. The hills of Ryto 3. The backwater of the Dunajec River in Tropie 09 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

road to autumn, Cebulówka, Koziarz range, Beskid Sądeckiki Janusz Wańczyk www.janusz-wanczyk.pl

JANUSZ WAŃCZYK WWW.JANUSZ-WANCZYK.PL

Sprinklers bring cool on hot days

photos:

1. A chapel in Januszowa, Pogórze Rożnowskie 2. The viewing platform in Wola Krogulecka, Beskid Sądecki 3. The shrine in Librantowa, the foothils of Rożnów

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JANUSZ WAŃCZYK WWW.JANUSZ-WANCZYK.PL

Sprinklers bring cool on hot days

photos:

1. "Beech harvest ”, by Wierchomla, Beskid Sądecki 2. Wooden fuel stocks, Maliniki, Beskid Sądecki 3. Beech forest, Cebulówka, Beskid Sadecki 13 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

the colors of autumn, the Rożnowskie Foothills Janusz Wańczyk www.janusz-wanczyk.pl

the evning pasture, Popowice, Beskid Sądecki Janusz Wańczyk www.janusz-wanczyk.pl

Redyk at Pogórze & Beskid Niski

by Krystian Kiwacz

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all photos and story by Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl www.facebook.com/Krystian-Kiwacz-Fotografia

Józef Klimkowski is a shepherd and a landholder from Podhale.

He has been involved in sheep grazing since his teenage years.

Initially, he grazed his sheep in the Bieszczady and the Sudetes, but in 1984 he moved to the Low Beskids because he says that he is closer to his home. In the charming, abandoned village of Czarne, formerly belonging to Lemko people, he built a shepherd's hut right by a stream, about 100 meters from a gravel road. The village is full of roadside crosses and chapels as well as wild fruit trees, which testify that the place was once bustling with life. It is here that in early spring fresh, juicy grass appears in the surrounding vast meadows (even from mid-April), so Józef brings sheep, cows, and goats. He collects them from Podhale farmers in his truck. After a winter in the sheepfold, the weakened animals would not be able to walk for several days. On the spot, they are divided into two herds, one has about 300 animals, the other over 800. The first is grazed in the meadows of the non-existent nowadays, the former village of Długie, the second one in the Czarny Valley.

Until recently, they could also be found in the meadows of Nieznajowa. Horses, cows, a few sheep with calves and goats graze by the hut. A caring shepherd pours water into the bowl and gives it to the sheep and the lambs. Right behind him, a dog is resting on the grass and a horse is grazing in the distance. Work goes on all day long. The day starts very early, as at 4 o'clock they start to milk cows and sheep and it takes usually 2 hours. With plenty of grass, the animals may be milked up to three times a day. In the morning, at noon, and in the evening. When there is less grass or when the grass is dry, animals are milked twice a day. Twice a day, twenty pieces of traditional cheese, oscypek and bundz, are made from the collected sheep's and cow's milk. The shepherds sitting around the fire together with their younger helpers, knead them by hand, using special forms. The cheese sells like hotcakes to tourists visiting the hut and the rest is distributed and sold in the immediate vicinity. Unused milk is delivered to the collection centre.

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There are only a few sleeping places in the hut. The shepherds who look after the sheep sleep in makeshift booths next to the animals, locked at night in special pens. Throughout the day and night, they are accompanied by shepherd dogs, protecting the sheep against wolves and even bears appearing in the area (actually, one said that there are no bears, the other said that there are bears, so it is not a certainty).

Grazing lasts until the beginning of October. Right after St. Michael the Archangel Day, which falls on September 29, the transhumance (here called ‘redyk’) takes place, which is the ceremonial return of the sheep on foot to Nowy Targ. The journey to Podhale takes them five days. The way home leads through Konieczna, Regietów, Wysowa Zdrój, Mochnaczka, Runek, Hala Łabowska, Makowice, Rytro, Prehyba, Przysłup, Krościenko, and further along the road to Nowy Targ.

To make it easier to control a large herd of animals, they are divided into three groups, walking at an interval of 200-300 meters. They travel not only along wide gravel roads, but also along mountain forest trails and vast meadows. The organization of the return also requires arrangements with local animal breeders. For example, in Regietów Wyżny, before the sheep pass, the Hucul horses grazing there should be fenced off, as they could react too nervously if put in contact with a large herd and herding dogs.

photos by Krystian Kiwacz

The sheep are followed by a horse-drawn cart.

However, it follows a different route, choosing wide, paved forest gravel roads, as well as asphalt roads.

People who look after the sheep are supported by a delivery truck, which drives up to the walking herd in convenient places, providing both people and dogs with food, while taking weakened animals that are unable to continue their journey. At the end of each day, sheep are confined to makeshift pens, surrounded by electric fences. As the shepherd says, they spread the electric fence because it is convenient and they look for shelter under some bushes where they place some tarpaulin.

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On the fifth day of the trip, to the accompaniment of highlander music and loud singing, the united herd led by shepherds and their helpers, already dressed in highlander clothes, wanders along the streets of Nowy Targ to reach the farm in Kowaniec.

There, bells are taken off the sheep's necks, and the next day there is osod, that is, the sheep go to individual farms. Józef likes his job. If he didn't like it, he wouldn't be there, and neither would his associates.

photos by Krystian Kiwacz

Additional info: Location and scenery source: www.gmina.gorlice.pl

The Gorlice Commune is situated in the south-eastern part of the Małopolska Voivodeship in the Gorlice District.

Situated slightly off the beaten path, It is definitely worth visiting as you may admire the picturesque hills of Pogórze and the wild hummocks of Beskid Niski – the ancient Karpacki Primeval Forest, explore the cultural heritage of the Pogórze people and Lemek people, visit the old churches, Orthodox churches, manor houses and a renaissance defensive manor house from the 16th century, see tripods and pump cranes, the last such facilities in Poland and Europe, absorb in thought by the wayside chapels and crosses, in old Jewish kirkut as well as war cemeteries from the I WW. Geographically the Commune is situated at Podkarpacie – the borderland of the CiężkowickoBobowskie Foothills and Beskid Niski and part of the JasielskoSanockie Depressions. As a result of such unique location, the landscape is varied, picturesque and attractive for the tourists: the mountainous and wooded south around Bielanka and the remaining hills. The valley of the River Ropa separates them.

It is also here that a tourist finds silence and peace, pure air, traditional, regional cuisine and hospitality of the residents and the owners of the farms of the countryside tourism. The place is a perfect outing facility for walks, closer and distant hikes – walking, cycling and car driving to many attractions of the Gorlice District.

The Gorlice Commune is provided with all, what is characteristic for the landscape, climate, flora, fauna, sacred architecture, ethnography tradition and cultural heritage of the entire Gorlice region, the so called Gorlice Land. Gorlice is only a „tiny spot" on the „world map" but the land assures silence, peace, pure air and picturesque landscapes. You will come across the hospitality of its residents and the commune's authorities. You will rest in the developing tourist and recreation facilities – mainly in the farms of countryside tourism with the traditional regional cuisine based on ecological food.

With our Magazine we will came back to this region as it will be soon our home.

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Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl

Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl

35Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl

WIDZIADŁO DZIEWANNY Fanpage: www.facebook.com/DziewannaCzarna/ Bandcamp: www.dziewanna.bandcamp.com/releases YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/TheYen777

Dziewanna’'s texts are reflections of her interests; she deals with literature every day, so the songs refer to romantic literature, legends, folklore, and fantasy. Her channel on YouTube has got above 1.8 mln views. In any videos, she plays a character connected with the “The Witcher” universe or inspired by it.

The singer is a laureate and finalist at a lot of musician competitions. In December 2019 she published the conceptalbum “Widziadło” (“The Phantom”). That has a brace composition: the word “dnieje” (“dawns”) starts and ends the album; it symbolises the wander of a man from birth to death.

Word “Widziadło” refers to Brocken’ s specter, which occurred in the mountains – an omen of death. The theme of “Widziadło” are people's dreams, the voice of ghosts, relationships with nature. On the album, you can hear, among others, the sounds of ethnic instruments: kemenche or alt flute.

photo and cover design: Anna Pielecka

Album won the plebiscites: Folk Metal Album of the Year 2019 (FolkMetal.pl) and Folk Album of the Year 2019 – Wirtualne Gęśle.

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Dziewanna plays concerts in two versions: folk metal and folk.

She was performing among others on Festival of Slavs and Vikings in Wolin, Days of Fantasy in Wrocław, the folk metal festival in Ostrava. She writes the poems and cooperates with Grensir – they create Projekt Saga (Saga Project), inspired by the Vikings.

Dziewanna travels and visit interesting old places in her free time. That's the source of inspirations for her.

Her album is available on streaming channels. The vocalist has got fanpage “Dziewanna” on Facebook.

photo: Maja Siemek

Dziewanna – Polish singer, songwriter, and composer from Beskidy Mountains. Her music is a mix of melodic mystic folk, traditional music, and rock, inspired by “The Witcher”, slavic and nordic culture, the beauty of nature. She cooperates with a lot of musicians, connected with folk, rock, classic music, and she plays the concerts with them in Poland and abroad.

OPIS ALBUMU „WIDZIADŁO” „Widziadło” to debiutancka solowa płyta Dziewanny, folkowej i folkmetalowej wokalistki, kompozytorki ze Śląska Cieszyńskiego. Album składa się z z pieśni autorskich i tradycyjnych. W nagraniach wzięło udział wielu utalentowanych Gości.

Jeden z utworów jest muzyczną ilustracją wiersza Wojciecha „Świętobora” Mytnika. „Widziadło” to kompilacja jedenastu pieśni utrzymanych w klimatach mistycznego folk-rocka i folku okraszonego szczyptą poezji śpiewanej. Album odzwierciedla zainteresowania Dziewanny, koncentrujące się wokół literatury romantycznej, fantasy, góralszczyzny i pieśni morza. Utwory opowiadają o zaświatach, ludzkich tęsknotach, pięknie (i jednocześnie grozie) natury. Przede wszystkim jednak „Widziadło” stanowi odzwierciedlenie tego, co niewidzialne, a bliskie sercom. Album ma kompozycję klamrową – wyraz „dnieje” rozpoczyna i kończy płytę; zabieg ten symbolizuje ziemską podróż – życie i jego koniec.

Okładka płyty inspirowana jest widmem Brockenu, które, wedle góralskich wierzeń, zwiastuje śmierć.

STNIRPTOOF KLOF /ELPOEP

AGNIESZKA SUCHY

photo. Karolina Francuz

KRAKOW'S

Hidden Gems

"Poland is not East or West. Poland is at the center of European civilization. It has contributed mightily to that civilization. It is doing so today by being magnificently unreconciled to oppression"- Ronald Reagan.

Krakow

by Anda Alexandra Rosiek www.twistedredladybug.com

Poland is a key crossroad of culture in Europe, with Krakow as its second the largest city, after Warsaw. Krakow was the capital of Poland until 1596 and up to this time all the important kings, queens, and historical figures were always brought to the Wawel Castle for their burial. It is a magical city, filled at every corner with interesting things to see and do. It is a multicultural melting pot where Poles, Jews, Russians, Slavic people, and Germans from all over Europe meet. Krakow has stood the test of time and was not razed to the ground, like Warsaw, during the Second World War. This is why throughout the city you can discover unique pieces of architecture, from Gothic to Baroque, Renaissance, Soviet-style (Nowa Huta, the city within the city), and even oriental influences (such as the house on Długa Street that bears a minaret and the Islamic crescent).

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Krakow is a city where everyone can find and enjoy a piece of its culture and lifestyle. Today I want to take a ride with you in a non-traditional way, off the path of tourists. I want to show you some of Krakow’ s hidden gems!

The Obwarzanek Museum – great for children and adults alike!

If ever you have traveled to Krakow and walked its cobblestoned paths of Old Town or Kazimierz, for sure you have spotted (more than once!) the small dark-blue carts with people inside them. They are selling the traditional obwarzanek (not quite a bagel, not quite a pretzel). It is one of Krakow’s symbols and both adults and children consider it a daily must-have for a light snack. You can enjoy it as a standalone item or you can slice it in half and make a sandwich out of it. My favourite spread for the obwarzanek is egg paste!

Cultural Heritage

The Stained Glass Museum in Krakow

The obwarzanek for the Cracovians (people of Krakow), is a cultural heritage that has even been recognized by the European Union!

That's right, the “Obwarzanek Krakowski” received the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. If you want to buy the true obwarzanek you need to make sure that the cart you buy it from (or the point of sale) has the appropriate yellow and blue sign created by the EU to show the PGI status.Did you know that in 1394 we can find the first mention of the obwarzanek? It is in one of the letters written by Krolowa Jadwiga (Queen Jadwiga), “dla królowej pani pro circulis obwarzanky 1 grosz”. Don't be fooled by the fact that the Queen bought obwarzanek for one grosz! One obwarzanek did not equal one grosz. Remember that the grosz/zloty was very strong back then, and with the amount of one zloty she probably bought several obwarzanki. A peasant would have to work several days or even weeks to earn a grosz.

Did you know Krakow has its own Stained Glass Workshop and Museum? Located on Krasinskiego 23, just across the Kino Kijow, it is very close to the National Museum in Krakow Main Building (Al. 3 Maja 1) and just a seven-minute walk from the Main Market Square.

If you are a fan of Art Nouveau then this Polish Art Nouveau corner will have you stunned! This unique space has been functioning since 1902! The building itself was designed by its owner and was a special order that requested certain rooms to be bigger, taller, and have space for very tall windows to facilitate natural light flowing in. The workshop still cultivates traditional techniques that were used in making stained glass windows ages ago.

Live Muzeum of Obwarzanek

Hidden from plain sight, right across the Stary Kleparz market (which is another hidden gem only locals go to) sits the museum of the obwarzanek. It is not a conventional museum, but rather a small coffee shop with a point of sale for the obwarzanek made in Krakow, some memorabilia shaped as the obwarzanek (you name it, they have it- bracelets, socks, puzzles, cups, etc.). The museum has a very nice terrace outside overlooking the Stary Kleparz market, or you can eat inside at the white chairs and tables. They serve fresh lemonade and sandwiches made from the obwarzanek.

It is self-service, so first you need to go to the counter, pay, and then the products will be brought to you. To the left of the counter, you can see the large room that is used for the workshops. Two large, long tables are clean and ready for the guest students. In this room, as all of the others, there are old pictures, drawings, and mentions of the word obwarzanek throughout history. The baking is done in a room connected to the workshop room, but only the instructors are allowed there for mainly safety reasons. However, everyone can watch what happens through the video cameras installed there and the live feed is shown on a big screen in the workshop. The workshops are done in Polish or English and they last about one hour. You get to work on your own obwarzanek while listening to its history. It is an entertaining experience for both adults and children alike. Also, the museum holds special sessions for children. Many kindergartens take their little ones here for an interactive session. The minimum age for children is around three years old, or else they will not understand the instructions and will likely become bored! In the end, you get a diploma and your own obwarzanek that you made during the workshop! Fret not, there is also a small toilet for both men and women located in the corner of the workshop room with a small sink where people can wash their hands before starting to "play with the dough". Everyone should do that, as health and safety come first!

The Tours

I found it interesting that the tours are always done while the artists are working so you can see them completing their daily tasks. You can sit next to them and see their handiwork or perhaps even see them put the finishing touches on their masterpieces when you climb up to the 2nd floor. During the museum tour, you can find out how the design is born, how it is cut into smaller patterns, and all the types of techniques used for welding ("gluing" the pieces together). You will learn about the Patternation technique – which allows you to make more life-like details. You will see the difference between the lead and the Tiffany technique (used for smaller, more delicate objects). You will then move to the 2nd floor to gain an understanding about the colours and how one can remove the layers of color in the glass. You will learn about the fact that having windows facing the north is a must, as the light is more gentle. You will see easels made in the 1900s still standing there and being used by the painters. You will learn that only one layer of painting and work can take up to 24 hours to make and bake. Visitors will become acutely aware of the amount of work and patience and planning it takes to create a small piece of art.The tour usually takes around 45-60 minutes and you can ask as many questions as you want. There are only three main rules: do not touch anything unless invited/told to, do not disturb the people working, and do not film (you can take pictures).

The Workshops

If you choose to take a workshop, as I did, there are multiple options, according to how much money and time you have. There is the short version (1-2 hours), standard version (3 hours), stained glass course (3-4 days), and intensive classes (2 days intensive allday workshop). There can be anywhere between one and fifty participants. The available languages for the people that will explain to you what you must do, are Polish, English, German, and French.

Booking a workshop from the form on their website is a must twenty-four hours in advance. The team will reply quickly via email, as they have great customer care skills.

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You can see that they love what they are doing and that they want you to have a great time as well! Before working with the stained glass you will get a tour of the museum. Once you get started, materials are included and you are given a protective apron for your clothes. You must wear it, as it tends to get dirty! During the workshop you will have to do everything manually including picking the main model you want (out of a set already selected for you), picking a matching color, cutting it into shape, making sure there are no rough edges, taping it ready for the lead soldering, soldering, and giving it the finishing touches! Sounds easy, right? Wait until you have to do it yourself! After each of the workshops, you will get to make and take home your piece of stained glass art.

The Executioner Museum- Muzeum Kata “Kacianora”

I know this may be a taboo subject for some, but I find history to be fascinating! Most people believe that torture was invented in the Middle Ages, but that could not be more wrong! It is easier to make the connection with that time (pagan faith and the hunt for witches), but the torture is at least as old as Ancient Greece. Greeks and Romans alike used it for interrogation purposes. Until the 2nd century AD, torture was used only on slaves (with a few exceptions). After this point, it began to be extended to all members of the lower classes. Since the days when Roman law prevailed throughout Europe, torture has been regarded as subtending three classes or degrees of suffering: First-degree torture typically took the forms of whipping and beating, but did not mutilate the body. The most prevalent modern example is bastinado, a technique of beating or whipping the soles of the bare feet. Second-degree torture consisted almost entirely of crushing devices and procedures, including exceptionally clever screw presses or "bone vices" that crushed thumbs, toes, knees, feet, even teeth and skulls in a variety of ways. A wide array of "boots" (machines variously, ingeniously designed to slowly squeeze feet until their bones shattered) are quite representative. Thirddegree torture savagely mutilated the body in numerous dreadful ways, incorporating spikes, blades, boiling oil, and extremely carefully controlled fire. The serrated iron tongue shredder, the red-hot copper basin for destroying eyesight, and the stocks that forcibly held the prisoner's naked feet, glistening with lard, directly over red-hot coals (foot roasting) until the skin and foot muscles were burnt black and the bones fell to ashes are examples of torture in the third degree.

Now almost every big city in Europe has some kind of museum of torture with a wide display of original and replica instruments of torture used in history. In case you did not know, Krakow has one too!

The Guided Tour

It took me four years living in Krakow, in the Old Town, to realize that there is such a museum! It is even located in Main Market Square! The Muzeum Kata “Kacianora” (Executioner Museum) is a lovely, tiny hidden gem of Krakow. Located on Rynek Główny 29, in a 15thcentury cellar, it holds over 100 items (the largest arsenal of such items in Poland!).

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Located in the basement of the 15th century house, 6 meters deep, inside of which was built a wooden structure (beams and mezzanines). Construction and architectural details at every step are a surprise to the viewer! Unique solutions have been used to connect wood, stone and light to give power to the experience.

Some complain that it is just one single room. Well, I say that is nonsense! I have spent two full hours and 40 minutes and I did not feel time passing by! If you do get there, do not buy a regular ticket. Top tip- buy the guided tour! It is worth your money! Going on your own to visit this is just like visiting Malbork Castle without a tour guide. Who is going to give you the background and tell you all the gruesome details and all the amazing stories behind each piece?

The wonderful lady that guided me spoke perfect English and told me stories connected with the instruments of torture that I did not know before. I must admit I know quite a few stories and legends myself, like the fact that the Iron Lady/ Iron Maiden is just a myth and it was more of an isolation chamber, but without the inner spikes. I would not recommend the museum to kids, but for history buffs, it is a must. It is not part of the National Museum, it is a private one, but well taken care of, though it does lack the publicity it deserves!

Addresses for the Hidden Gems:

ŻYWE MUZEUM OBWARZANKA ul. I. Paderewskiego 4 (Rynek Kleparski) Tel. +48 12 357 73 22 Email: biuro@muzeumobwarzanka.com PRACOWNIA I MUZEUM WITRAZU Krasińskiego 23 Booking and Information: www.stainedglass.pl Tel. +48 512 937 979 Email: info@stainedglass.pl Muzeum Kata “Kacianora” Rynek Główny 29, 31-010 Kraków Tel. +48 602 515 570 Email: rezerwacje@kacianora.com.pl Information (in Polish only): www.kacianora.com.pl My previous articles: Obwarzanek: www.twistedredladybug.blogspot.com/2018/08/krakow-hiddengems-obwarzanek-museum.html Stained Glass Museum: www.twistedredladybug.blogspot.com/2018/07/krakow-hiddengems-stained-glass-museum.html Executioner Museum: www.twistedredladybug.blogspot.com/2015/04/muzeum-katakacianora-executioner-museum.html

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER find this logo:

INFO KRAKOW points let you find information about tourist attractions in the city and its vicinity, cultural events, and accommodation, buy tickets, hire guides, and obtain free tourist leaflets and other infotisement materials.

Krakow Tourist Card: A ONE CARD, MANY POSSIBILITIES. The Krakow Tourist Card saves time and money. The card facilitates your stay in this historical and vibrant city, and makes it more enjoyable.

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KAZIMIERZ DOLNY

off the beaten track treasure

KAZIMIERZ DOLNY Visit KAZIMIERZ'S tourist website: www.kazimierz-dolny.pl/en/

‫קוזמיר‬

Market Square in Kazimierz Dolny in 1899, watercolor by Stanisław Masłowski, public domain

Kazimierz Dolny is always vibrant with life, especially in the summer, when it is bustling, lively and teeming with tourists.

However, those who would like to enjoy the tranquillity and quaintness of this charming small town should come to Kazimierz Dolny in the autumn or winter, when one can fully experience its cosiness and “provincial murmur". In the autumn, there are not many tourists here, which makes the town more quiet, as if it was put in slow motion mode.

Autumn is the perfect season for experiencing the spirituality and specific atmosphere of Kazimierz Dolny. It can even make one understand, appreciate and fall in love with this enchanting township. The abundant green areas gradually turn from warm colours to a golden yellow. If you have experienced the autumn fogs of Kazimierz, if your nostrils have filled with wet and smoky scent of hornbeam leaves lining the gorge floor – consider yourself lucky.

Surely, in your thoughts you will go back to this small town to immerse yourself in silence and serenity of these magical autumn evenings. This is where the September evening sun and the October rustle of the fallen leaves intersperse with the memories of the summer brimming with the bright white of clouds, vivid blue of the sky and fading green of fields bleached by the sun. The autumn and winter season is also the time of literary societies meetings in the “Kuncewiczówka” villa, Saturday klezmer music concerts at “Knajpa U Fryzjera” pub, as well as painting and photography exhibitions at the Kazimierz Culture Centre. In early December we organize the annual Christmas Market and the Regional Food Fair “Develop a Taste for Kazimierz” (Polish: “Zasmakuj w Kazimierzu”). Also, this is when you can meet Santa Claus who gives gifts to kids. In 2010, a ski slope with a terrific vantage point was opened only 2 km away from the market square. It offers two ski trails (500 m and 250 m long) with a T-bar lift, equipment rental service, as well as skiing and snowboarding lessons taught by professional instructors. The slope is regularly snowed and it is wellilluminated. A restaurant is available on the spot. The body responsible for tourism in Kazimierz Dolny is the PTTK. The town offers the tourists a wide range of restaurants and accommodation facilities, numerous boarding houses and rural cottages.

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history of the town source: www.kazimierz-dolny.pl

The oldest settlements within the area of today’s Kazimierz Dolny were established in the early Middle Ages, before the Polish state was even formed. The history of the town dates back to the 12th century, when the village of Wietrzna Góra (Windy Hill) was situated here. Together with the neighbouring villages, it was granted to the nuns of the Norbertine Order from Zwierzyniec (district of Cracow) by Casimir II the Just, High Duke of Poland, at end of the 12th century (sources give the year of this event as 1181). It is believed that it were the Norbertine Sisters who renamed the village “Kazimierz” after their benefactor, Casimir II the Just (Polish: Kazimierz II Sprawiedliwy). From the 13th century, the land trade route connecting Ruthenia with Silesia and Pomerania ran through Kazimierz, which contributed to the development and determined the character of the town. The stone watchtower, also simply called “the Tower”, was erected in the 13th century in order to guard and watch over peaceful trade in the town.In the 14th century, King Casimir III the Great (Polish: Kazimierz III Wielki) transformed the medieval settlement into a city by granting it a municipal charter. Earlier, in 1325, a local parish was established by the same benefactor – King Casimir III the Great – who also funded the construction of the local castle.

Also in the 14th century, the town became a focal point for the Jewish people, who on the turn of the 20th century constituted half of the local population. Kazimierz Dolny was growing rapidly owing to the ferrying services and customs duties from the flourishing trade. The town owed its wealth and position mainly to the floating goods down the river, grain in particular. The 16th century saw two great fires of the town. The town raised from ruins and was reconstructed by the mid-17th century to present a new, spectacular layout. Owing to the flourishing transport of grain to Gdańsk, the local merchants amassed great wealth, and the most impressive objects and structures of the town were built. At the apex of the town’s development, i.e. in the 15001650s, Kazimierz Dolny was one of the major commercial centres trading cereals in Poland. During the economic heyday of the town, there were about sixty beautifully ornamented grain silos in Kazimierz Dolny. In 1657 the Swedish troops marched into the town, and Kazimierz entered the period of terrible ordeals – wars, fires, plunders and plague. The 18th century brought attempts to rebuild the town from the rubble and there was a spark of hope for economic revival in grain trade. However, as a result of all the hardships and war experiences, the town was never to regain its former greatness. As a result of the Partitions of Poland and the separation of Gdańsk from Poland, the town of Kazimierz Dolny lost its status of a prosperous trading centre. The town was involved in both the November and January Uprisings against the occupation authorities, which was followed by severe repercussions, including the dissolution of the monastery and persecution of the local population. After the fall of the January Uprising, in 1869 Kazimierz Dolny was deprived of its municipal rights, which were not to be restored until 1927.

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The art colony Artists would come to Kazimierz Dolny starting from the end of the 18th century. Many prolific painters would create their paintings here, including Vogel, J. Richter, J.F. Piwarski, M.E. Andriolli, Gerson, Pankiewicz, Aleksander Gierymski and many others. However, the true “age of art” of Kazimierz Dolny started in the 20th century, when the Warsaw School of Fine Arts was established, and the eyes of its professors turned to the small town upon the Vistula River. The year 1909 was a landmark in the artistic history of the town, as Władysław Ślewiński, an experienced artist working in Pont-Aven and a friend of Paul Gauguin's, came here with his students that year. Since then, groups of artists were becoming an increasingly common sight in Kazimierz Dolny, and the foundations for the art colony were laid.How can an art or artists’ colony be defined? To quote Rainer Maria Rilke: “Only here life can take on the shape of art.” Art colony is not only the creative work – it is a lifestyle. At the beginning of the 20th century, this kind of artistic activity was a novelty in Poland, and art school professors would only begin to take their apprentices for plein air workshops to the “wild nature.” Kazimierz was a perfect destination for the painters seeking “honesty”, “primitive” and “exoticism.”

As early as in the early 20th century, Kazimierz Dolny became the “town of painters” and was gradually turning into an artists’ colony. More and more painters would come here to admire the “picturesque landscape,” “warm, rustic atmosphere,” “typical Polish beauty” and “wistful poetics, touching one's heartstrings.”

Kazimierz would repay them by turning on its charm and showing off its superb landscapes. In 2000, the Kazimierz Confraternity of Art was established. Its members carry on the artistic interwar tradition of the art colony. Art and artists have shaped the identity of Kazimierz Dolny. Both are still present here, and new generations come here to appreciate the value of the town and to become enamoured of Kazimierz. It can be certainly stated that the art colony in Kazimierz Dolny lives on and thrives, and art was and still is one of the most essential elements of the town's identity.

Shtetl Kuzmir For ages, Kazimierz Dolny was a focal point for the Jewish community, which started to emerge here in the early 13th century. In the 16th century it already amounted to 1/6 of the local population, and by the end of the 19th century the Jews constituted half or more of the population. The Jews usually resided at Mały Rynek and Lubelska Streets, but they would also build houses along side streets next to the market square.

The Jewish community fell victim to Nazi repression not long after the outbreak of World War II. A ghetto was established between Nadrzeczna and Senatorska Streets, and the entire Jewish population of Kazimierz Dolny and its environs was moved there by force. In March 1942, the German army liquidated the ghetto and moved its residents out of the town.

photos Mariusz Ciszewki, polska.pl

Kazimierz Dolny

China Moses fot. Sylvain Norget

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KAZIMIERZ DOLNY PLACES TO SEE 01

Old Market Square

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Castle Complex

The onset of Kazimierz Dolny dates back to the 12th century, when there was a settlement called “Wietrzna Góra”, in English: the Windy Mountain.

During the climax of the development of the town, from the 16th century to the middle of the 17th century, Kazimierz Dolny was one of the most modern centres for grain trading in the entire Republic, with over 60 richly ornamented granaries. The well in the middle of the Marketplace is a few hundred years old. It used to be a town spring. At the end of the 19th century, the spring was equipped with an Abyssinian pump, which facilitated the drawing of water.

The castle founded by Casimir III the Great is a monumental fortress made of stone. A spacious irregular courtyard of 56 x 22 metres was encircled by seven-metre high curtain walls. The castle ruins gained significancedue to a settlement of artists that started developing in Kazimierz Dolny at the beginning of the 20th century and drew to the town numerous accomplished Polish painters of that era. The historic storm of World War II did not significantly change the condition of the remnants of medieval defensive architecture dominating the town.

Soon after the war had ended, a new period of research and renovation of the castle complex began.

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Church of John the Baptist The oldest sanctuary in Kazimierz Dolny (the parish existed there already in 1325), the church was first gothic, then developed in the style of “Lublin renaissance”. Next to the church, there are renaissance chapels: the chapel of the Górski family, the chapel of the Borkowski family and the “Różańcowa” chapel (in English: the rosary chapel).

Especially the top of the sanctuary looks grand, with its pinnacles, pilasters, volutes and fixture ornaments. The ceiling of the church is covered in stucco decorations, geometric, mannerist, shaped in circles, squares, hearts, stars and rosettes. The church was thoroughly renovated between 2010 and 2012.

Synagogue and cemeteries The original synagogue was erected of stone in 1536. The current synagogue was built in the 2nd half of the 18th century in the style of Late Baroque. The interior of the synagogue was ornamented with rich polychrome on the walls and ceiling. The first Jewish cemetery was established in Kazimierz Dolny at the end of Lubelska street. The exact date of its establishment is unknown. It is assumed that the cemetery was established at the same time when a Jewish commune was formed in the town. The cemetery was devastated by the Germans already at the beginning of World War II. Today, the place of the cemetery was taken by a school sports field, but parts of matzevas are still visible in the wall surrounding the field.

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Monastery of the Franciscan

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Trzech Krzyży Mountain

Our favoutite! The church was founded in 1589 and consecrated in 1591. In 1627 the Franciscans Reformers settled in the church, extended it by a sanctuary and added a monastery in 1638-68, which was encircled with high defensive walls and an entry in the form of the so-called covered staircase in the 1st half of the 18th century. In the time of German occupation the monastery was occupied by the Gestapo; the basement was turned into a prison. A museum was established in the monastery in 1956, with such exhibits as manuscripts, old prints, sculptures and paintings, as well as regional relics.

A mandatory point to see during your stay in Kazimierz Dolny. The three holy crosses are a memorial to the victims of a 1708 cholera epidemic in the area. As well as a view over the town, you can see Poland’s longest river, the Wisła, from the top. Getting there requires 5-10 minutes going up a hill.

Other places: Grain granaries, Former hospital at St. Anna’s church and the Holy Spirit poorhouse, Butcher’s stalls, Tenant houses of the Przybyła brothers, The house of Maria and Jerzy Kuncewicz, Celejowska tenant house, The parish cemetery

Kazimierz Dolny Tourist Information source and tourist information: www.kazimierz-dolny.pl/en Rynek 27, 24-120 Kazimierz Dolny Opening hours: Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm Sunday 10am to 5pm (from 1st of November to 30th of April – 10am to 5pm daily) kontakt@infokazimierzdolny.pl info@infokazimierzdolny.pl Tourism Management Office of the Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society (PTTK) telephone number: +48 81 881 00 46

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Kazimierz Dolny nad Wisła

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photos Mariusz Ciszewki, polska.pl and lovepoland archive

Kazimierz Dolny – origin of the name The “Dolny” part of the name of the town means “lower,” as the town is situated further down the Vistula River than the former town of Kazimierz, which today is the district of Cracow. The attribute “Dolny” was added to the name to differentiate between the two towns Kazimierz Dolny is often also called simply Kazimierz or Kazimierz nad Wisłą (Kazimierz-upon-Vistula). In the Yiddish language it is known as Kuzmir – ‫קוזמיר‬

INFORMATION info source: www.kazimierz-dolny.pl/en

China Moses fot. Sylvain Norget

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SEE GORGES IN KAZIMIERZ DOLNY

photos: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

Many gorges in Kazimierz Dolny, including those with walls up to a couple dozen metres, are recreational routes and educational trails. The most interesting ones are: the Roots’ gorge (Roots’ Pit), the Plebanka Gorge (or Plebani Dół – in English: the Vicar’s Pit), Norowy Dół, Kamienny Dół, Chałajowy Dół, Wąwóz Małachowskiego (Małachowski’s Gorge), Kwaskowa Góra (the Sourish Mountain), Wąwów Czerniawy, Wąwóz Piądłowskiego and many other gorges. description by www.zabytkikazimierzdolny.pl

Many tourists visiting Kazimierz Dolny are satisfied with seeing the marketplace and a few main monuments, such as St. John the Baptist and St. Bartholomew Parish Church, the castle, the synagogue and some other monuments. Yet, the area around the town is less frequently visited, although just as attractive, with its richness of nature and landscape.

incredible light visible from between the roots and tree trunks, combined with the loess bottom and the verdure. For this reason the Roots’ Gorge is one of the most popular painting themes in the landscapes picturing the area of Kazimierz Dolny. You can reach the gorge on foot, which takes around half an hour of walk from the town, or with a melex, bike or your own car.

What is worth seeing apart from the marketplace and the centre of the town?

Plebanka Gorge – the gorge can be entered from a place located around 200 or 300 metres away from the marketplace in Kazimierz Dolny, right next to the monastery of the Franciscan Fathers. The gorge ends with an exit leading to the so-called Town Fields (in Polish: Miejskie Pola), an area with hardly any buildings, between the town and Mięćmierz. Far down the gorge, at the crossroads, there is a cross. The cross itself and its story are quite interesting.

This is the so-called “epidemic cross”, which used to have two transverse beams. It was placed in the gorge during one of epidemics which haunted Kazimierz Dolny in the past. In winter, you can go on a sleigh-ride with torches, which is a Polish tradition dating back to the time of the szlachta and is commonly referred to as “kulig”.

Loess gorges – extraordinary and picturesque, encircling the town as a fine net. You can find peace and quiet just a couple dozen meters away from the marketplace (in the Plebanka gorge). Gorges situated around Kazimierz Dolny are a way to walk almost around the entire city. This town is perhaps the only one in Poland, where a buzzing marketplace is set next to quiet natural havens. Wandering in gorges is a great idea for all those who like to be active. The air, a special microclimate, moist even in the heat, fabulous landscapes, extraordinary atmosphere – all in all, an unforgettable experience.

Roots’ Pit – the fabulous and most popular gorge. Fantastically twisted, protruding roots of trees growing on slopes are the reason for the name of the gorge and its fame. If you enter the Roots’ Gorge, you will feel as if you stepped into the world of Tolkien's stories. The impressions of colours are astonishing here - there is

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Granicznik Gorge – located near the stone-pit of Kazimierz Dolny; next to it there is the “Piorunowa Skała” (in English: the “Thunderbolt Rock”), an extraordinary place, famous for its atmosphere and popular among film makers.

photos: Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

You do not need any special equipment. Shoes are crucial – definitely not sandals, but light sports shoes; the conditions of walking tours are dependent on the weather. If it rains, the loess mixed up with water makes the roads slippery and heavy. Sticky mud forms on the ground. There is no need to climb or overcome great obstacles, but some of the gorges, such as Norowy Dół have rich undergrowth, which you must wade through, or some tree trunks, which have fallen and you might have to pass by. These are walking tours for all dexterous tourists.

photos: Mariusz Cieszewski /Â www.polska.pl

SREBRNA GÓRA. SILVER MOUNTAIN FORTRESS. LOWER SILESIA Historical description: National Heritage Board of Poland, www.zabytek.pl Srebrna Góra

The fortress at Srebrna Góra (also known as Silberberg) is an exemplary 18th-century mountain fortress, which survives to this day in its original form, representing a work of architecture unique in Europe. Built in keeping with the principles of the Old Prussian school of fortification (incorporating Dutch, Italian and, in particular, French concepts devised by Sébastien Vauban), it constitutes a cohesive complex. The fortress was raised in the Central Sudetes Mountains, which form a natural boundary between the Kłodzka Valley and the Silesian Lowlands. It was intended to reinforce the system of defences protecting the southern border of the Silesian province, under threat at the time from the armies of Austria. The new fortifications were meant to bridge the gap in the existing defences, cutting off the Silver Pass (Przełęcz Srebrna), which until then had offered easy access to Silesia between the Owl Mountains (Góry Sowie) and the Bardzkie Mountains. The nature of the stronghold and the rocky substrate on which it stood led the fortress on Srebrna Góra to be known as “the Gibraltar of Silesia”.

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Vindicator CC BY 2.5

Silver Mountain Fortress Kręta 4 Str, 57-215 Srebrna Góra www.forty.pl GPS: 50° 34 ′ 28.123, 16° 38 ′ 34.721 Open: From April to October: 10am – 6pm From November to March: 10am – 5pm From July to August on Sat and Sun: 10am – 7pm Tickets: Regular – PLN 22, Discounted – PLN 17 Children aged 4 and under: free entry.

Duration of the visit: about 60 minutes.

Warm clothes and trekking or sport shoes recommended.

Built on the orders of Frederick II the Great, King of Prussia, in 1765-1777, to a design by Ludwig Wilhelm Regler, it was laid out across three hills: Ostróg (627 metres above sea level), Warowna Góra (686 m a.s.l.), and Wielki Chochoł (740 m a.s.l.). In 1765-1768 a keep (regarded as the largest structure of its kind in Europe) and six bastions were erected. The horn-works known as Fort Rogowy I and II (with esplanades), Fort Ostróg and a number of concealed roads were added from 1768 to 1771, whilst in 1770 work began on the construction of fortifications atop the Wielki Chochoł, Średni Chochoł and Mały Chochoł, continuing until 1777. The entire complex extends almost across 3km. The fortress could accommodate around 4000 soldiers in 350 rooms. The fort’'s magazines were designed to hold vast stores of ammunition, foodstuffs and firewood – enough to withstand a year-long siege. Nine wells were dug, the deepest (measuring 84m) being located within Fort Ostróg.

Defensive firepower was provided by 264 cannon, howitzers and mortars. The fortress was the only one in Silesia never to be conquered, and in 1807 it even withstood a Napoleonic siege. In 1830-1848 the keep served as a Prussian jail. In 1860 the fortress was abandoned, and in 1867, in view of the changes that had taken place in military technology, it was decided that it should be decommissioned. It did not comply with new structural requirements and was deemed out-dated.

A military training area was subsequently established at this site.

After the war Srebrna Góra was included within the new boundaries of Poland. During wartime and the early postwar years the fortifications fell into decay, whilst state authorities showed no interest in this 18th-century structure. Conservation and adaptation work was not undertaken until the 1960s. In 2002 the Srebrna Góra Fortress Cultural Park was brought into being, its main objective being to protect and revive the fortress.

photos: M. Ciszewski, polska.pl

By the late 19th century Srebrna Góra’'s fortress had become a tourist attraction. The growth of tourism prompted reassessment, conservation and renovation work to be carried out on nearly all of the fortress’s features.

The youth hostel built on Fort Ostróg in 1913 was the largest at that time in Germany. In 1926-1928 Fort Wysoka Skała was restored to serve as a police training centre, and in 1930 Fort Rogowy was adapted as a police holiday resort. During World War II the fortress became the venue for the Oflag VII B prisoner of war camp, housing Polish officers taken into captivity in 1939. In 1941 the camp was replaced by Stalag 367, where Polish, Soviet, Belgian, French, Greek and Finnish soldiers were detained.

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Bobolice

by Michał Piorun

www.facebook.com/piorunografia

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BY A TOUR QUIDE

BOBOLICE CASTLE

Michał Piorun – a geographer, tourist and tour guide, traveller, author of numerous travel guide books around the Świętokrzyskie region. For several years he has been dealing with landscape photography. Winner of many photo competitions, author of photo exhibitions.

Involved in tourism. Co-founder of Włoszczowa Informal Hiking Tourism Club „Łajza”. Vice President of the Foundation Education for Development Centre. Volunteer of the Świętokrzyski National Park.

The Krakow-Częstochowa Upland is a very picturesque land tempting tourists with its attractions. We can find here lofty inselbergs and rock gates, wide panoramas, about 2,000 caves and rock shelters. The local nature is protected in the Ojców National Park, 6 landscape parks and numerous nature reserves.

Well-known hiking trails lead through this land; the most important of them include the Trail of Eagles Nests and the Trail of Jurassic Strongholds. An indispensable element of the Jurassic landscape are medieval castles and strongholds, incorporated into the landscape with great precision and taste.

They were located on the Częstochowa – Kraków line. They delight with their majesty, well noticeable in the case of the castles in Pieskowa Skała, Podzamcze Ogrodzienieckie or Olsztyn. Others, less known, can be found in Bydlin, Smolen, and Korzkiew. In Łutowiec or Ostrężnik, only few traces of these buildings have remained. However, in recent years, the castle in Bobolice has become extremely attractive, since thanks to the efforts of the current owner, it was raised from the ruins.

Together with the neighbouring watchtower in Mirów, it is one of the real gems on the Trail of the Eagles Nests. The castle in Bobolice is situated on the eastern rocks of Grzęda Mirowska (Mirowskie Rocks); its western end is decorated with the ruins of the castle in Mirów. The stronghold was precisely adapted to the terrain relief. On the highest rock there is the upper castle, below it there is the lower castle with the outer bailey. The whole is surrounded by a dry moat, several meters deep.

You can get to the fortress via a bridge (formerly a drawbridge) through the gate. Right behind the gate, in the area of the lower castle, there is a courtyard. The castle in Bobolice was built in the mid-fourteenth century by the efforts of King Casimir the Great. It was part of the medieval defence system aimed at protecting the borders and territory of the Crown against feudally fragmentated Silesian districts and Czech influence. It was built on a high rock, emphasising its defensive value. With time, it started to be called, like other Jurassic strongholds "The Eagles Nest". At the foot of the castle walls there was a settlement that supplied the castle with basic products. In 1370, the king of Poland of that time, Louis I of Hungary, handed over the castle in Bobolice to his relative, the Duke of Opole, Vladislaus II of Opole, as a reward for supporting dynastic plans. In 1379, the prince temporarily gave the castle to Hungarian Andrzej Schoeny of Barlabas, who got engaged in plunder. In 1396, Władysław Jagiełło incorporated the castle in Bobolice again into the royal estate, thus ending the domination of disloyal Vladislaus II of Opole in the Upland. However, he left Andrzej Schoeny at the castle, forcing him to comply. The beginnings of the fortress in Bobolice were very difficult and complicated. In 1427, after the death of Anna, the daughter of the first private owner of Bobolice - Andrzej Schoena, the property was divided between Stanisław Szafraniec of Młodziejowice, Starykoń coat of arms, Anna's son from her first marriage, and her second spouse - Mściwoj of Wierzchowisko, Fox coat of arms, with their children: Mściwoj, Andrzej, Dorota, Anna, Elżbieta and Katarzyna.

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The quarrels were ended by the Krakow chamberlain, Piotr Szafraniec, who bought a part of the Bobolice castle from the Foxes. Soon, in 1445, Piotr Szafraniec sold the castle to Florian from Knyszyn. Over the course of several dozen years, the castle changed hands. Florian, in turn, sold it to Andrzej Treska. The next owners were the Rzeszowskis. In 1486, the new owner of the castle was Mikołaj Kreza of Zawada of the Ostoja coat of arms, whose family ruled the castle until 1625. The long period of the rule of Bobolice by the Kreza family was not peaceful. In 1587, the castle was conquered by the army of the pretender to the Polish crown, Maximilian III Habsburg. The castle was damaged, but it was soon recaptured by the army led by Jan Zamoyski, favouring

Zygmunt III Vasa. In the following years, the slow agony of the castle took place. The facility was demolished by treasure hunters.

In 1882, as a result of the parcelling, the land on which the castle was situated was given to the Baryła peasant family. It was in their hands until the 1980s. Until the 1990s, only the remains of the walls were left overgrown with wild vegetation. Soon the castle was purchased by the Lasecki family, who started rebuilding it in 2000. The official opening of the facility took place in 2011.

The castle in Bobolice is popular not only among tourists. The filmmakers chose these landscapes as well. In 2012, a video promoting the animated production of Disney Pixar "Brave" was shot here.

In 1625, the castle passed into the hands of the Myszkowski family of the Jastrzębiec coat of arms, who already ruled the nearby castle in Mirów. The period of the Swedish Deluge contributed to the slow decline of the Bobolice fortress. In 1657, the Swedes, under the command of General Müller, severely destroyed the building. Soon the Męciński family from Żarki became the new owners of the castle.

Subsequent Swedish invasions meant that the castle was abandoned in 1661. In 1683, its condition must have been terrible, since Jan III Sobieski, who was transporting his troops to Vienna, preferred to spend the night in a tent during his stay in Bobolice, rather than risk an overnight stay in a badly damaged building.

In 2016, Andrzej Wajda shot scenes for the movie "Afterimages" in Bobolice, and in 2017 the castle became Wawel for the needs of TV series "the Kings". The castle in Bobolice has returned to its heyday. It is open to tourists. You can visit the castle interiors with a chapel, an observation deck, a courtyard and an entrance gate. There is a hotel and a restaurant right next door. Castle parks and gardens invite you to rest. Extremely attractive is the 2-kilometer-long Grzęda Mirowska trail (Mirowskie Rocks), which stretches from Bobolice to the castle in Mirów. A walk along it is one of the most beautiful in the entire Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. At the foot of the Bobolice fortress there is a characteristic gate-shaped rock outlier, formerly known as the

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Sobieski Gate, later the Kissing Rocks, and now the Lasecki Gate.

On the northern slope of Grzęda, there is a 23-meter-high Stajnia Cave, which is an important archaeological site. In 2008, the first in Poland remains of a Neanderthal, named Jurassic Bobolus, were discovered there. These are his three molars. On one of them, traces of using toothpicks were discovered. The castle in Mirów is worth seeing, but due to the ongoing construction works aimed at making it available to tourists, visiting it is still impossible.

There is a legend related to the castle in Bobolice and the neighbouring Mirów about two twin brothers, Mirek and Bobol, similar to each other as two drops of water. The first of them lived in Mirów, the second in Bobolice. They were brave, which is

The loot they brought from wars they stored in the underground tunnel connecting the two castles. A witch was guarding the treasures. From one of these expeditions, in addition to valuables, Bobol brought a beautiful captive that he soon married. White-haired charmed also Mirek. Lovers met in the castle basement. Betrayed by the witch, they suffered cruel consequences. Furious Bobol killed his brother and had his wife walled up in a dungeon guarded by the witch. Probably the white-haired girl appears during the full moon on the walls of the Bobolice castle and while she is looking for her lover. She looks towards Mirów, and when the sun is about to rise, she disappears into the basement of the castle.

why they were very often sent on military expeditions. Bobolice is located in the northern part of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland, in the Śląskie Voivodeship, Myszków County. Important communication routes do not get here, so if you want to visit the area it is worth having a private mean of transport. You can get here from the side of Niegowa, Kroczyce and Żarki. The main red Jurassic trail, called the Trail of the Eagles Nests, runs through the village. I invite you to visit this picturesque corner of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland.

Michał Piorun, August 2020

Bobolice

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Bobolice ,

Michał Piorun www.facebook.com/piorunografia

PLACES AND CUSTOMS

by Katarzyna Skóra

Katarzyna lived almost all her life in the Low Beskids. She is particularly interested in everyday life in the former Lemko region. The imagination plays an important role in her life, helping to feel the atmosphere of the visited places. She is into handicrafts, and specifically crocheting. Working on various projects allows you to relax, in a sense it has become a way of life. She is also passionate about photography. She tries to capture in her frames inanimate nature, landscapes and the transience, in the broad sense of the word.

Weekly photo trips have already become a tradition.

In the Mystical World of Lemko Healers www.magurskiewyprawy.pl

I have been interested in the subject of beliefs and customs for a long time. For the duration of that time, I have been collecting and systematizing materials on this subject. When writing this article, I was largely motivated by my participation in the recent meeting in Gorlice with the ethnologist professor Olga Solarz on the folkways of undoing charms in the Carpathians.

The Lemko region interests me in a special way, so let me take you today for a journey to the mystical world of folk beliefs, to the land of worożka (vorozska), bacza (shepherd-witchers), and bosorka. There was a kind of gradation among the healers. At the top of the hierarchy, there were baczas whose scope of services was quite wide. They dealt with healing, fortune-telling, and neutralizing ghosts. As the range of their skills was wide, especially in the context of their methods to fight ghouls, I will write about them in a separate article. This article will detail vorozskas (healers and fortune-tellers who predict the future) and bosorkas (curers of people and animals), whose standing is a bit lower in the magical hierarchy. Bosorkas were both the lowest in the hierarchy, as well as the largest group. They dealt only with healing people and animals, using magical and rational means. Bosorkas were considered dangerous because, according to popular belief, they interacted with “unclean” powers.The main activity of bosorkas was to take milk from other people's cows and give it to their own. It did not take much for a woman to be recognized as a bosorka. It was enough to have teary eyes and distracted eyesight, since it was the eyes that were crucial in this case. Thanks to them, these women could “porobyty” other people, that is cast a spell on them. Bosorkas also had dealings with the devil and could harm others without much effort. Their special power was to fall on St. George's day, when they forced themselves into the barns, in the form of a frog, mouse, cat or dog. On Holy Thursday, they used to walk naked in the meadows and pick herbs. Nobody could see them during this activity, otherwise, they were supposed to put a spell on that person as a punishment. Bosorkas also played the role of village midwives and knew “bajaty madru”, that is, they could whisper a stomach-ache. What is whispering? “Zasziptuwanie”, whispering the spells, are the words and formulas uttered during the procedure, which most importantly should be performed quietly, 56 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

in a way that is incomprehensible to the patient and third parties.

The texts of these formulas uttered by bosorkas and healers have never been and will never be known. That is because the Lemkos believe that revealing this content to another person causes the loss of healing power and its transfer to the person who heard the formula. According to this commandment, the content of “whispering” was passed on to a selected person (usually to someone from the family) only at the deathbed. In order to get rid of witches, the Lemkos would go out on St. John's day to the border of their village and shout: “Witches, witches, go bewitching abroad.” Certain religious elements were attached to the activities of healing by magical methods. The number 3 was especially significant. For example, the spell-whispering procedure was most often repeated three times. Men also could be witchers. Those who worked as millers or carpenters tended to show particular predispositions in this direction.In order to remove any suspicions of connection with unclean forces, lots of healers and baczas demonstrated their piety. They led an ascetic lifestyle and fasted on Wednesdays and Fridays. The famous healer from Blechnarka, Akila Dancz, who took the last meal on Tuesday, and the next one on Friday evening, attracted special attention. People who dealt with quackery and broadly understood magic arts were often eccentrics and stood out in some way. An interesting case was the vorozska from Wysowa, who was a childless, wealthy landholder who abandoned his wife and lived with another woman. He dealt mainly with fortune-telling, pointed out where to look for lost or stolen objects, knew how to undo charms (heal erysipelas or a bluetongue in cattle), and was also very eager to give advice on marital matters. The vorozska from Wysow’'s clients said that he drew his power from a string on his pants, a “hacznyk”. He usually played with it when he was deeply reflecting, which could explain his clients’ assumptions. In their activities, healers often used church and sacrificed props. Vorozskas dealing with fortunetelling searched for losses with the help of a psalter. How? They opened the book blindly and the answer to the question asked by the client was supposed to be found on that page (for their own interpretation, so everyone found something relatable). In the Lemkos stories, collected by the outstanding ethnographer Roman Reinfuss, the truth is mixed with folk fantasy.

Katarzyna Skóra

females in Bednarka, photo: Hans Hildenbrand

field rocking cradle photo: NAC

www.magurskiewyprawy.pl

photo: Katarzyna Skóra

The healers themselves, both baczas and vorozskas, built their reputation among the villagers with their stories, and not necessarily real ones. They would tell something to one person, who passed it on to others, and this is how their legend grew. At the same time, rather surprisingly, their credibility grew as well. It is said that a lie repeated a thousand times becomes true.Of course, just like today, there were fraudsters among people who dealt with this faculty. Reinfuss gives an example from Łoś, where the presbytery was supposed to be haunted. A healer came to the parish priest, offering his services to solve the problem. When the priest refused, it turned out that the “fear-source” emitting mysterious noises and murmurs was the healer himself, showing great willingness to help. Although belief in charms and spells has been forgotten, my aim is to show you the importance of the role played by these people in the life of the village until recently. They were actual people, somehow shrouded in legend, but quite real and down-to-earth. There are still illages, hidden among the mountains of the Low Beskids, where bosorkas still take milk from the cows, and the hot coals thrown into a pot of cold water, counted from the back can help to undo a charm. Not forgetting, of course, to pour the water over the left shoulder and turn the pot upside down.

That's all I can reveal to you!

SĘKOWA. RECONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTLE OF GORLICE Photos: K. Matusik and K. Kiwacz (as indicated)

Warszawa

cooperation: Gmina Sękowa

Photos: May 4, 2017- 2019, Sękowa, Pańskie Pola.

Location: In front of the sports and recreational complex in Sękowa.

Location:

Krakow

Rzeszów Sękowa

Sękowa, Gorlice province

The Battle of Gorlice was the largest fought in Poland during the First World War. Approximately twenty-thousand soldiers, representing all nationalities of Central and Eastern Europe, including Germans, Russians, Austrians, Poles, Ukrainians, Hungarians, Slovaks, Czechs, were killed there. Former enemies were reunited through death and the cemeteries they share.

Last year, another reenactment of the Battle of Gorlice on May 2, 1915, took place. It was organised for the 9th time in Sękowa (near Gorlice, traditionally) by the Gorlice 1915 Historical Reconstruction Group, Sękowa Commune, and the Community Cultural Center in Sękowa. The reenactments are part of the "Days of Gorlice" celebrations, and therefore the partners are the City of Gorlice, the County Office in Gorlice, and the Commune of Gorlice. During this event, viewers could admire reenactors, cavalry, planes from the First World War, as well as try delicious soldiers’ food. Unfortunately, this year, due to the pandemic, the reenactment had to be cancelled, but we hope it will take place next year.

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GPS:

49°36′N 21°12′E Sękowa is a historic village in southern Poland first incorporated by an edict issued on February 22, 1363, by King Kazimierz Wielki.The village is the site of St. Philip's and St. James' church, built in the beginning of the 16th century, one of the six Wooden Churches of Southern Poland, inscribed on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites since 2003. Sękowa is the seat of rural Gmina Sękowa, administrative district in Gorlice County, Lesser Poland Voivodeship, on the Polish Slovak border. It lies approximately 7 kilometres (4 mi) south-east of Gorlice and 105 km (65 mi) southeast of the regional capital Kraków.

History of the battle Text of CC BY-SA 3.0 Unported License

them before they reached the protection of their own fortresses as they retreated across the border. When these actions petered out in late September, much of two Russian armies had been destroyed, and all Russian forces had been ejected from the Masurian Lakes area of modern north-east Poland after losing almost 200,000 killed or captured soldiers. The Russians did far better in the south where they faced the Austro-Hungarians, who mobilized more rapidly and started their own offensive in late August from Galicia, their province in partitioned Poland, initially pushing the Russians back into what is now central Poland. However, a well-executed Russian counter-stroke in late September, when they had brought more men to the front, pushed their enemy back over their own borders in disarray, leaving a large garrison besieged in the fortress city of Przemyśl. In fierce winter fighting General von Hötzendorf, the chief of staff of the Austro-Hungarian Army, attacked the Russians who had forced their way into the Carpathian passes in the south of Galicia. Both sides suffered appallingly, but the Russians held their line. By this time half of the Austro-Hungarian Army that had entered the war were casualties.

Conrad pleaded for additional German reinforcements to hold the passes. German Chief of Staff von Falkenhayn refused, but in April 1915 Conrad threatened a separate peace if the Germans would not help.

photo: Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl

The Gorlice–Tarnów Offensive during World War I was initially conceived as a minor German offensive to relieve Russian pressure on the AustroHungarians to their south on the Eastern Front, but resulted in the Central Powers' chief offensive effort of 1915, causing the total collapse of the Russian lines and their retreat far into Russia. The continued series of actions lasted the majority of the campaigning season for 1915, starting in early May and only ending due to bad weather in October.The primary cause of the Central Powers victory was their superior artillery firepower. German heavy field guns and howitzers with their high angle of fire suppressed the Russian artillery and devastated their infantry counterattacks. The Germans improved the accuracy of their artillery fire through aerial observation.

German siege mortars reduced Russian fortresses within days. German light artillery supported the infantry through direct fire, devastating Russian strongpoints. In the early months of war on the Eastern Front, the German Eighth Army conducted a series of almost miraculous actions against the two Russian armies facing them. After surrounding and then destroying the Russian Second Army at the Battle of Tannenberg in late August, Paul von Hindenburg and Erich Ludendorff wheeled their troops to face the Russian First Army at the First Battle of the Masurian Lakes, almost destroying

“As the end of the main vacation in 1914 approached, the war storm had already spread across the border areas of the northeastern part of the country.

News of bloody fights appeared more and more often. At the adjacent railway station in Zagórzany, trains with prisoners of war or wounded soldiers could already be seen. A hospital in the city and a whole host of theoretically and practically prepared nurses were appointed to receive the wounded fighters. There were ready beds for sick soldiers or convalescents in private houses, for whom family care was provided. People talked much about war and used to prepare for it publicly and privately. However, they were quite convinced that the city, due to its mountainous location, far from the main railroads, would never become a battlefield (general opinion was that only open areas enable large armies to conduct military action). It can be said quite emphatically that there was not one inhabitant in the whole city who thought that the time would come soon where the hills surrounding the city would swarm with armies of all kinds, weapons, and thousands of cannons would open their mouths to breathe from their throats death and destruction."

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Conrad and Falkenhayn met and planned a joint strike on the Russian left flank at the far southern end of the Eastern Front, in the Gorlice-Tarnów front, 130 km southeast of Kraków. A successful advance from there would force the Russians to retreat from the passes to save themselves from being cut off.

German intelligence detected no signs of an imminent Allied attack on the Western Front. Moreover, their field army was still growing. They were removing an infantry regiment from each division, leaving them with only three, but not reducing the numbers of essential divisional specialists, a better allocation of forces for an artillery war. Each reconfigured division was reinforced with 2,400 new men, recruited since the outbreak of the war, who were dispersed among the veterans. The released infantry regiments were formed into 14 new reserve divisions.

Conrad had to bow to Falkenhayn's conditions. The joint attack would be by an Austro-German Army Group commanded by a German, whose orders from Falkenhayn would be transmitted via the Austro-Hungarian command. The Group would contain the Austro-Hungarian Fourth Army (eight infantry and one cavalry divisions) under Archduke Joseph Ferdinand, an experienced soldier. The Germans formed a new Eleventh Army made up of eight divisions, trained in assault tactics in the west. They were brought east on 500 trains. The Army was led by the former commander of the German Ninth Army, General August von Mackensen, with Colonel Hans von Seeckt as chief of staff.

Mackensen, whose political sensitivities had been polished as an adjutant to the Kaiser, would also lead the army group. They would be opposed by the Russian Third Army (18½ infantry and five and a half cavalry divisions, under General D. R. RadkoDmitriev). Mackensen was provided with a strong train of heavy artillery commanded by Generalmajor Alfred Ziethen, which included the huge German and Austro-Hungarian mortars that had crushed French and Belgian fortresses. Airplanes were provided to direct artillery fire, which was especially important since ammunition was short on both sides: only 30,000 shells could be stockpiled for the attack. Another significant plus was

photos: archive historical photos

the German field telephone service, which advanced with the attackers, thereby enabling front-line observers to direct artillery fire. To increase their mobility on the poor roads, each German division was provided with 200 light Austro-Hungarian wagons with drivers. Falkenhayn moved German Supreme Headquarters, OHL (Oberste Heeresleitung), to Pless in Silesia, an hour's drive from Austrian headquarters. To prevent spying, the local inhabitants were moved out of the buildup area. In the North the German Ninth and Tenth armies made diversionary attacks that threatened Riga. On 22 April, the Germans launched the first poison gas attack near Ypres, divulging what might have been a decisive weapon merely to distract the Allies in the west. Mackensen had ten infantry and one cavalry divisions (126,000 men, 457 light guns, 159 heavy pieces, and 96 mortars) along the 42 km length of the breakthrough sector. Facing him were five Russian divisions consisting of 60,000 men but desperately short on artillery. For fire support the Russians could only count on 141 light artillery pieces and four heavy guns.

And one of the four burst as soon as the battle began. The Russian supreme commander, the Grand Duke Nicholas Nicholaevitch, learned that Germans had arrived on their flank but did not make a counter-move. On 1 May, the Central Powers’ artillery opened fire, zeroing in their guns. The following day at 6am they began a sustained bombardment, at 9am the heavy howitzers joined in. The huge mortar shells were terrifying, their blast killed men tens of meters from the explosion. The Russian fortifications were"... more ditches than trenches." so they were easily smashed and their feeble barbed wire belts torn apart by howitzers firing high explosive. At 10am the Austro-German infantry attacked in thick skirmishing lines. Mackensen's orders were for his entire front to move forward as one, regardless of local opposition: each unit was set a minimum distance to advance each day. If a machine gun held them up, a field gun was brought up to destroy it. When driven back the Russians almost invariably counterattacked in dense formations, only adding to their losses.

1. Battle of Gorlice 2015 , photo: lovePoland archive 2. Emperor Wilhelm II Hohenzollern visits the 11th Army, 1915 in Rzeszów, Bundesarchiv, Bild 183-R11105 / CC-BY-SA 3.0 3. Battle of Gorlice 2015 , photo: lovePoland archive

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photos :K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl photos :K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

photo : K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

photo : K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa On May 2, 1915, at six o’clock in the morning, over a thousand cannons launched powerful rounds of fire on the front-line Russian positions. It seemed like the doomsday had come. The sky became covered by smoke from the burning refinery. The roar of the explosions merged into one uninterrupted thunder. The ground trembled from the explosions. There was fire and smoke everywhere. By the evening of May 2, 1915, all Russian troops were driven out of Gorlice.

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photo: K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

photo : K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

photo : K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

photo : K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

photo: Krystian Kiwacz www.krystiankiwacz.pl The outbreak of World War I in July 1914 meant that Galicia, where the Russian-Austrian front ran, became the area of hostilities. Russian troops advancing towards the southwest seized Gorlice on November 15th for the first time. Displaced by the Austrian army on December 12th, they recaptured it again between December 26-28th, starting their 126-day occupation.

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photo : K. Matusik thanks to Gmina Sękowa

The city, occupied by the Russians in those days, was on the very line of the Russian-Austrian front, which stabilised for several months. By the end of April 1915, on this section of the front, military operations took the form of trench warfare. The prime victims of this firing and plunder were the towns and villages located on that line (especially Gorlice, Sękowa, and Łużna).

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photo: Krystian Kiwacz

www.krystiankiwacz.pl

photo: Krystian Kiwacz

www.krystiankiwacz.pl

Leaving a herd of does unattended even for a moment poses the risk of a confrontationwith another bull, who will probably be happy to take advantage of the moment of distraction or inattention of the rival. Therefore, it is not surprising that the bull, separated from his chosen ones for a moment, was in such a hurry.

Włodzimierz Stachoń

A RUT IN THE CURRENT OF THE RIVER THE PEARL THE POLISH WILDLIFE WORDS & PHOTOS Włodzimierz Stachoń

www.facebook.com/karpatymagicznakraina

Włodzimierz Stachoń - lives and works in Gromnik (Tarnów county). For almost 25 years, he has been involved in nature photography and journalism. Over 5,000 photographs of his authorship have been published in over 20 national magazines (nature, forest, fishing, hunting, sightseeing and others) The next thousand photos can be found on the pages of six albums showing the beauty of nature in south-eastern Poland. More about the author's creative work on www.wlodzimierzstachon.pl on the profile of Karpaty-magiczna kraina.

Mid-September, cool, misty dawn over the most beautiful mountain river. Apart from typical sounds coming from behind the curtain of mists in the Dunajec Valley, caused mainly by birds staying on the river, there is an absolute surprise for an outside observer. Those are the intense sounds of deer mating season, called rutting. On the verge of autumn every year, deer descend from the forests covering the surrounding hills into inaccessible, dense riverside thickets- first doe with calves and deer youth. They find peace and quiet here, which is becoming more and more difficult to come by, as the forest is frequented by tourists, walkers, and mushroom pickers. Under the cover of night, the deer go out to the surrounding fields, which are an excellent food base for them.When the time of rutting approaches, comely bulls roam to the river, following the females, driven by an instinctive desire to extend the species. Soon, in the mornings and at dusk, the deer mating call is brought from the thickets of the waters. The intense, perhaps even terrifying (to those who are not familiar with it) roar of a male deer is considered one of the most beautiful sounds of untouched nature.In one of the more secluded river bends, animals have their favourite trail. In the early dawn they cross to the other shore, where a rut takes place under the cover of bushes. This is a unique opportunity for photographic, bloodless hunting.

The fog and sun create unusual, sometimes mysterious, fairy-tale-like scenes in the river valley.

Return to the day refuge.

The rut is actually over, but the animals remain for some time in the thick shrubs in the river valley. In the morning, they return from the surrounding farmland where they were feeding under the cover of night.

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Location Dunajec River The Dunajec is a river running through northeastern Slovakia and southern Poland. It is a right tributary of the Vistula River. It begins in Nowy Targ at the junction of two short mountain rivers, Czarny Dunajec and Biały Dunajec (Black and White Dunajec). Dunajec forms the border between Poland and Slovakia for 17km in the Pieniny Środkowe range, east of the Czorsztyn reservoir. The Dunajec is 249km long, including its source river Czarny Dunajec, which makes it Poland's thirteenth longest river. It has a basin area of 6,796 square kilometres (4,838 in Poland and 1,958 in Slovakia). On the Slovak/Polish border, it flows through the Zamagurie region, with attractions such as the Dunajec River Gorge, the Trzy Korony massif with a 500m (1,600ft) precipice, Červený Kláštor, and two Pieniny castles in Czorsztyn and Niedzica. Below the two source streams Dunajec flows through a broad valley called Nowotarska Basin. It then supplies the waters of the dam in Niedzica (Jezioro Czorsztyńskie Lake) and the dam in Sromowce Wyżne (Sromowce Wyżne reservoir). Flowing through the central part of the Pieniny range, it creates a picturesque turn at the Polish Slovak border between Sromowce Wyżne and Szczawnica, where it flows by Kotuńka rock which differentiates the area from the over parts of the river. Further down it turns to the North into the Western Beskid Mountains, and Sądecka Basin (where it merges with its own largest tributary, the Poprad River). It flows across an open valley of the Beskid Foothills and falls down across Rożnów Foothills (with two more dams: the Jezioro Rożnowskie Lake and Jezioro Czchowskie Lake) and finally it leads into Sandomierz. Basin and

the valley of Vistula Lowlands. Dunajec flows into the Vistula River in the vicinity of Opatowiec. Dunajec Gorge is also one of the best known tourist attractions in the Pieniny Mountains.

Wooden raft trips have been organised daily

by Pieniny Gorals since the early 19th century – when their customers consisted mostly of guests of nearby Niedzica and Czorsztyn castles. The trip begins in the village of Sromowce Wyżne-Kąty, and ends in the resort town of Szczawnica, 18 km downstream. It takes about 2–3 hours. The second leg of the tour is only 5 km long. It begins in Szczawnica and ends in the town of Krościenko nad Dunajcem. The Gorge makes 7 loops in its length.

The surrounding rock reaches 300 m in height almost all the way through. The gorge is part of a valley located within the Pieniny National Park. The landscape distinguishes it from surrounding mountains due to interaction of natural factors such as geological ground, relief, water, soil, climate, flora and fauna, and their evolutionary relationships. All these elements contribute to the complexity of the natural beauty of the whole area.

Below: Chilly autumn mornings in the Dunajec Valley are often accompanied by dense fog. The phenomenon can be so intense that it is often impossible to take the coveted photos. All that is left is to enjoy the sounds of the rut. Sometimes, a favourable gust of wind gives a second chance to capture subsequent rutting scenes.

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A Rut in the Current of the River by Włodzimierz Stachoń www.facebook.com/karpatymagicznakraina

Above: In a completely surreal scene, created by fog and sunbeams breaking through, the angry, stronger bull, annoyed by the foot chase of a rogue, chased an intruder away, falling into the middle of the Dunajec riverbed. There, to my great joy, with a momentous roar, he loudly announced to whom the does belong (of which the chased youngster inadvertently tried to approach).

Below: Blue hour in a natural paradise. On my way to the photo ambush site in the early morning, I came across a herd of deer returning from an expedition to the surrounding farmland, where they usually go out under the cover of night to graze. In the dim light of the waking day, the animals did not notice me and walked in front of the lens to the other side of the river in a fairy-tale-like scene. Despite extremely difficult shooting conditions, we managed to take a series of desired photos.

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Ĺ‚

W odzimierz Stachon

www.facebook.com/karpatymagicznakraina The day was drawing to a close when suddenly the silhouette of a magnificent bull appeared from the thicket. A moment later the silence of the evening was interrupted by the mighty roar of a herd male.

Ĺ‚

W odzimierz Stachon

www.facebook.com/karpatymagicznakraina Life in the rut is not easy for the deer youth. Chased by a gregarious bull, the young rogues must be on their guard and most often they do not even have an opportunity to actively participate in the rutting season. They are left with the role of supporters and spectators.

Oświecim

www.facebook.com/JarekFiedor

Auschwitz-Birkenau

photography and text:

Jarosław Fiedor www.facebook.com/JarekFiedor

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the past , the present

TOWN OF PEACE

Oświecim Oświęcim is about 40 thousand attractive and friendly town situated in the valley of the River Sola. Convenient location between Małopolska and Silesia makes it an important transport route connecting the two regions. Galician town atmosphere creates a turbulent 800-years history, the traces of which can be seen walking around the castle hill and the Old Town. The nature and climate of ancient history dating back the thirteenth century.

Since the beginning of World War II, Oświecim was within the limits of the Third Reich and wore German name Auschwitz. On the outskirts of the town the Germans set up a concentration camp Auschwitz-Birkenau - a place of mass destruction of people from all over Europe. They started the rebuilding of the town and the building of the I.G Farben Factory in Dwory. During the occupation the residents of the town, even though they were subjected to cruel persecution by the Nazi authorities, risking their lives helped the inmates of the camp Auschwitz-Birkenau. On 27th of January 1945, Oświęcim was liberated from Nazi occupation.

Kraków

Jarosław Fiedor is a native of Oświęcim and resident of the Zasole Estate. He is an attentive observer and amateur photographer. Using a lens, Jarosław captures the past and present time of the city, its inhabitants, nature, and architecture, as well as captivating, detailed trinkets. He believes that Oświęcim is a city with tradition and potential. It is situated on the beautiful Soła River, with parks, the Castle Hill, the Market Square, the Salesian Institute, the Jewish Centre, and many interesting monuments. Oświęcim is vibrant during city events and various types of cyclical festivals, with charming cafes, flowered squares, pedestrian and bicycle paths, and excellent recreational and sports facilities.

He says, “Our city is constantly developing, beautiful, and alive (both culturally and architecturally). People are joyful and I think they are happy. I show it all in my photos. However, I do not forget about the history of my little homeland and its dramatic past, symbolised by the barbed wire with which Nazi Germany surrounded the camps in Oświęcim and Brzezinka, as well as the present Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum. I have one goal every time- to show people, not only in Poland but also in the world, that Oświęcim is not synonymous with Auschwitz (that Auschwitz was the years of the German occupation and war). We, the inhabitants, have been facing this awareness for years and we are trying to show our living city (abroad) next to this dramatic time. As I said, Oświęcim is not only the Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum, but above all a modern, living city - a city of peace.”

Jarosław Fiedor

Oświecim

author Jarosław Fiedor

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Oświęcim is known in almost every corner of the world.

Unfortunately, it is mainly associated with the German death camp KL Auschwitz-Birkenau. It was founded in 1940 in the suburbs of Oświęcim, incorporated by the Nazis into the Third Reich. We will write about the tragic history of this place a bit later. Today, however, Oświęcim is a lively and interesting city, with almost 40,000 inhabitants and its history that goes 800 years back. Convenient location between Lesser Poland and Silesia makes it an important communication route connecting both regions. Today, we are talking about Oświęcim with the resident and author of the photographs presented in this article.

TLP: Jarosław, are you and your family from Oświęcim. Did you come to the city in the post-war years?

JF: I have been an inhabitant of Oświęcim since I was born. The roots of my family go back to the Opolskie and Lower Silesian Voivodeships. My grandfather was a professional soldier with the rank of major and served in Krakow. It was there in Oświęcim that my grandparents got married and my father was born. As it used to be in the old days, the son took the love of uniform after his father and he also became a professional soldier. He served in the vicinity of Oświęcim and thus received a housing allocation in Oświęcim, where we live to this day. The example continues, so I also used to be a soldier for 16 years (laughter).

TLP: Love Poland: When you live in Oświęcim, you must somehow feel saturated with the historical atmosphere of the

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city, in your own way (especially most tragic times of World War II). However, before I ask you about the significance of those events on you, your friends’, and family's lives, I would like to ask about the contemporary Oświęcim (the former one, not yet familiar with the tragedy of the 20th century). Can you feel the atmosphere of an old Galician town in Oświęcim? Where can you feel its former atmosphere? Maybe walking on the Castle Hill or around the Old Town?

JF: Walking around contemporary Oświęcim, we can come across the traces of the former pre-war Oświęcim. First of all, in the Main Market Square of Oświęcim, despite the fact that the main slab underwent a complete renovation in 2014, we can find pre-war tenement houses around it. There are the Ślebarski family tenement house (court building), the former town hall (which now houses a museum presenting the history of the city of Oświęcim), and towers of the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is well visible from Market Square. I cannot fail to mention the place closest to the heart of every inhabitant- the Castle Museum in Oświęcim. Although its appearance changed after the renovation in 2007, we can find traces of its former glory and history inside. It is most visible inside the castle vaults, where two tunnels intersect. The first one is reminiscent of the times of the Austrian partition, and the second the times of occupation. This year, they were renovated and took on a multimedia character. I recommend it as one of the many attractions of modern Oświęcim. Being close to the Castle Hill, you cannot miss the Oświęcim Synagogue, which is also an indispensable part of the city's history.

Inside there is an interesting exhibition showing this period. I will mention that before the German occupation, half of the city's inhabitants were of Jewish origin. One of the distinguishing traces of Galician Oświęcim is the part of the former railway station, which now houses several shops and warehouses.

TLP: Do you have your favourite places here? Where would you invite tourists who want to see a little more in Oświęcim than the Extermination Camp? Where can you admire the panorama of the city from- maybe from a restored Gothic defensive tower? What does Oświęcim have to offer, apart from visiting the Camp, also for young people visiting the city? Are there clubs and discos, like in an ordinary city? Is it worth going somewhere outside the city?

JF: The city of Oświęcim has 40,000 Inhabitants and its area is quite extensive, but the main "life" revolves around the center (the old town). It is in this area that my favourite place is located. It is the Boulevards in Oświęcim, where I often walk with my family, do sports, and admire nature. There, you can relax in the rest area on a deckchair, use the outdoor gym, roller skate or a bike, and take advantage of the beautiful and clean river Soła, which is best viewed from the castle tower. The views include not only the Soła Valley, but also a beautiful panorama of the city in all directions. When it comes to tourists, the emphasis was put on encouraging them to stay longer. Usually they came, visited the camp and left the city, most often going to Krakow.

Recently, more visitors have decided to stay, which is why many new accommodations are being built quite quickly. More and more apartments, hotels, restaurants, clubs, pizzerias, and new museums are being opened. he tourism offerings are expanding rapidly. When it comes to attractions outside the city, the vast majority of tourists staying in Oświęcim choose the nearby ENERGYLANDIA amusement park in Zator. It is located about 10 km from Oświęcim and is rapidly gaining the leader position in Poland (as well as in all of Europe) in terms of the number of attractions, their size and area. As you can see, it takes a few days to explore the city and all of its attractions, inside and out.

TLP: Do you think that the half of the 20th century, with its tragic history, has had an impact on the current development of the city? Above all, did it influence the way the inhabitants today look at and think about the place where they live? Does a large number of visitors affect your and your city's everyday life? Did the establishment of the Camp change the city significantly?

JF: The city of Oświęcim, with its 800-year history, is one of the oldest in Poland, but unfortunately it is more perceived through the prism of several years of occupation and under the name of Auschwitz. We, as residents, try to change this and make Oświęcim known as a beautiful, modern, developing city. In the era of multimedia development, we can notice better and better results, but we still feel stigmatized by history. Before the war, Oświęcim was a thriving city with many large industrial plants, Christian culture, and Jewish culture. Everyone cooperated, people lived in symbiosis, but World War II and the establishment of the Camp changed everything into horror, persecution, deportation, and the death of many Oświęcim residents in the final stage. When you talk to the older residents about history,

they return to those times and understand the need to save these events in their memory for the next generations. But, I have the impression that the younger generations are beginning to be indifferent. This is a bad sign that needs to be counteracted even harder. It must never happen again, and we must never forget the death of so many innocent victims. The Auschwitz Museum must remain for the next generations as a warning of what harm people can do to others. Last year, over 2 million visitors came to the Auschwitz Museum, which proves that there is still a great need to learn about history which confirms how important the museum is for the inhabitants of the world. Unfortunately, not many of these tourists stayed in the city, but it is getting better and better and every year the streets of our beautiful city get filled up more and more, which makes me really happy. As for the last part of the question, I think that the camp and the Auschwitz museum, did not change the city in a very significant way. The establishment of the camp in this place made our city more visible in the world, more recognizable, although, as I mentioned, it was associated only with the occupation and this terrible page of history. This brought some kind of benefits, but also notoriety. For many years I have been explaining to whomever I can and wherever I appear that Oświęcim is not Auschwitz, and Auschwitz is not Oświęcim, because many of my friends from abroad, unfortunately, never having been here and understand it in the way imposed by others.

TLP: On the website of the city of Oświęcim you can read that "bearing in mind the memory of what happened, contemporary Oświęcim consciously creates its image as a Peace Center, from which numerous initiatives and projects calling for dialogue, tolerance and reconciliation stem ." Can you feel this atmosphere in the city's everyday life?

JF: Oświęcim is marked by bad history and that is why each of the peace and educational initiatives in this place gains even greater strength and much greater importance. In our city there are many institutions working in this context and promoting dialogue and peace. One of them is the International Youth Meeting Centre. It was established in 1986 as an educational institution thanks to the involvement of many people in the process of Polish-German reconciliation and in the Christian-Jewish dialogue. In the status of the Centre, the emphasis is primarily on Polish-German dialogue. The International Youth Meeting Centre is a place of breaking down barriers and mutual prejudices, a place of reflection and dialogue, but also of fun and relaxation. Another place is the Jewish Centre, an institution that includes the Jewish Museum, the only Holocaust survivor, the Chevra Lomdei Misznajot synagogue, and the Educational Centre, combining a place of prayer and reflection with the task of commemorating the Jewish past of the city. A very important role in educating and promoting peace about Auschwitz and the Holocaust is played by the International Centre for Education. It was established by the decision of the Polish government on the initiative of former prisoners and it carries out the educational mission of the museum. One can teach about Auschwitz and the Holocaust anywhere.

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Jarosław Fiedor

www.facebook.com/JarekFiedor

,

Oswiecim 80 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Only at the Auschwitz Memorial is it possible, that one may not only get to know the history of the camp operation and gain direct access to the firsthand accounts of witnesses, but also see the evidence of the Extermination with his or her own eyes: the ruins of the gas chambers, crematoria, and other leftover camp remains. The Centre for Dialogue and Prayer, run by the Krakow Foundation of the Centre for Information, Meetings, Dialogue, Education and Prayer, established in 1992, is also located near the museum. It is a Catholic institution founded by Archbishop Franciszek Cardinal Macharski in consultation with bishops from all over Europe and representatives of Jewish organisations. The intention of the Centre established near the Auschwitz Camp, which in 1998 was called the Centre for Dialogue and Prayer in Oświęcim, is to create a place for reflection, education, exchange of thoughts and prayer for all those touched by what happened here. The Centre commemorates the victims and contributes to creating mutual respect, reconciliation, and peace in the world. Apart from the institutions in Oświęcim, every year there are many peaceful and educational conferences and events promoting culture and peace in the world. One of the most famous was the LIFE Festival Oświęcim, organised for 8 years. It featured stars such as Scorpions, Queen & Adam Lambert, Elton John, Manu Chao, Eric Clapton, Soundgarden, Sting, Peter Gabriel, James Blunt, as well as many Polish top-notch artists.

TLP: What is your or your loved ones personal feeling about the fact that you live on the doorstep of one of the most tragic places on earth? Do you visit the camp often? Or has it shaped you in some way?

JF: As a resident of the city of Oświęcim, the issues of the camp, the Holocaust, education and the promotion of peace in the world have been very close to me from an early age. This subject is very close to my heart and I am a very frequent visitor to the Auschwitz and Auschwitz Birkenau museums. From my youth, I tend to spend my spare time at the museum.

Every morning on my way to work, I walk past the camp wall and each time I have the shivers. As my hobby is photography and I am very involved in it, I have always tried to find traces of the direct history and existence of the victims. Every time when I am in this place, I feel that I am with them, and they talk to me ‘Don't let them forget about us! Do not let the memory of us and this place ever perish so that no one would ever cause anyone so much harm and suffering as the Nazis and their sick ideologies’. One of my family members was a prisoner of Auschwitz III Monowitz for over a year.

That was my grandmother's sister. Thanks to a certain German, she managed to escape. Unfortunately, these events and the stay there made such an impression on her that every time she was asked about any details of that period, she used to become very stressed, sad, crying- and these were always moments of silence. Everything related to her story had such an impact on her psyche that she burned in the furnace everything related to her stay in the camp (all documents) and tried to remove the camp number, which left her with a huge scar. Unfortunately, she recently passed away, taking her story with her to the grave. I have lived in this city since I was born and the history is very close to me, especially the period of Auschwitz, but also pre-war. I belong to a group of history enthusiasts and for several years we have been promoting it among the inhabitants of both the city and the surrounding area.

Mirosław Ganobis is the precursor of these activities. He is a lover of the Oświęcim area, who has extensive knowledge about the history of the city and spreads it to everyone. He even has his own private museum in the old German housing estate in Oświęcim. It is located in an air raid shelter. Such shelters were located in each of the housing staircases and were to protect German families from air raids. With him and the group, we have already made three historical films telling real stories from the pre-war and occupation timesOświęcim-Auschwitz, At the Meeting Point of Two Worlds, and Oświęcim Fish Cartel. The newest one is OświęcimPrague, which is about the history of car manufacturing and the vehicle produced in our city on the Czech licence. We show the life of the founders, the Counts Raczyński and Potocki, but also the lives of ordinary workers. Finally, I would like to thank you for your attention and invite you to visit the City of Oświęcim, the city of peace. ł

Jaros aw Fiedor Oswiecim, July 2020

HISTORY

KL AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU ALL OVER THE WORLD, AUSCHWITZ HAS BECOME A SYMBOL OF TERROR, GENOCIDE, AND THE HOLOCAUST. text: Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum

KL Auschwitz-Birkenau was established by Germans in 1940, in the suburbs of Oswiecim, a Polish city that was annexed to the Third Reich by the Nazis. Its name was changed to Auschwitz, which also became the name of Konzentrationslager Auschwitz.The direct reason for the establishment of the camp was the fact that mass arrests of Poles were increasing beyond the capacity of existing "local" prisons. The first transport of Poles reached KL Auschwitz from Tarnów prison on June 14, 1940. Initially, Auschwitz was to be one more concentration camp of the type that the Nazis had been setting up since the early 1930s. It functioned in this role throughout its existence, even when, beginning in 1942, it also became the largest of the extermination centers where the "Endlösung der Judenfrage" (the final solution to the Jewish question - the Nazi plan to murder European Jews) was carried out.Division of the campThe first and oldest was the so-called "main camp," later also known as "Auschwitz I" (the number of prisoners fluctuated around 15,000, sometimes rising above 20,000), which was established on the grounds and in the buildings of prewar Polish barracks;The second part was the Birkenau camp (which held over 90,000 prisoners in 1944), also known as "Auschwitz II" This was the largest part of the Auschwitz complex. The Nazis began building it in 1941 on the site of the village of Brzezinka, three kilometers from Oswiecim. The Polish civilian population was evicted and their houses confiscated and demolished. The greater part of the apparatus of mass extermination was built in Birkenau and the majority of the victims were murdered here;More than 40 sub-camps, exploiting the prisoners as slave laborers, were founded, mainly at various sorts of German industrial plants and farms, between 1942 and 1944.

The largest of them was called Buna (Monowitz, with ten thousand prisoners) and was opened by the camp administration in 1942 on the grounds of the Buna-Werke synthetic rubber and fuel plant six kilometers from the Auschwitz camp. On November 1943, the Buna sub-camp became the seat of the commandant of the third part of the camp, Auschwitz III, to which some other Auschwitz sub-camps were subordinated.InteressengebietThe Germans isolated all the camps and sub-camps from the outside world and surrounded them with barbed wire fencing. All contact with the outside world was forbidden. However, the area administered by the commandant and patrolled by the SS camp garrison went beyond the grounds enclosed by barbed wire. It included an additional area of approximately 40 square kilometers (the so-called "Interessengebiet" - the interest zone), which lay around the Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau camps.The local population, the Poles and Jews living near the newly-founded camp, were evicted in 1940-1941.

Approximately one thousand of their homes were demolished.

Other buildings were assigned to officers and non-commissioned officers from the camp SS garrison, who sometimes came here with their whole families. The pre-war industrial facilities in the zone, taken over by Germans, were expanded in some cases and, in others, demolished to make way for new plants associated with the military requirements of the Third Reich. The camp administration used the zone around the camp for auxiliary camp technical support, workshops, storage, offices, and barracks for the SS. After the liquidation of the Polish state and its institutions, the fundamental goal of German policy in occupied Poland was the exploitation of material and labor resources, and the removal of the local Polish population and ethnic minorities. This was done through expulsion and systematic extermination. The Polish lands were to be completely germanized, through German settlement in the depopulated area. Hitler repeatedly told German dignitaries and leaders as much. After the meeting between General Governor Hans Frank and Hitler on March 17, 1941, Frank wrote: "The Führer is determined to make this country a purely German country within 15-20 years. From now on, the term "seat of the Polish people" will no longer be used to refer to the GG and adjacent areas [...] The General Government is to become the German zone in the future.

In the place inhabited today by over 12 million Poles, 4-5 million will live in the future. The General Government is to be a country as German as the Rhineland."From the beginning of the occupation, various places of imprisonment, police jails, judicial prisons, transit camps, labor camps, reeducation camps, penal camps and, above all, concentration camps played an important role in the process of the systematic extermination of the Poles, the weakening of their intellectual potential, and the imposition of unquestioning obedience. Until early 1942, the Nazis deported to Auschwitz only a relatively small number of Jews, who were sent there along with the non-Jewish prisoners, mostly Poles, who accounted for the majority of the camp population until mid-1942. Among the first transports of more than a thousand Polish political prisoners sent to Auschwitz in June 1940 from the prisons in Tarnów and Wiśnicz Nowy, there were at least 21 Polish Jews. All of them died in the camp within a short time. Extant records from the period JanuaryDecember 1941 indicate that – not counting Soviet POWs – 17,270 prisoners were registered in Auschwitz, of whom 1,255 were Jews.

In 1942-1944, as part of the “final solution of the Jewish question” (Endlösung der Judenfrage), Auschwitz served as the largest Nazi center for the destruction of the Jewish population of the European countries occupied by and allied to the Third Reich. At least 1.1 million of Jews including more than 200 thousand children were killed in the gas chambers immediately or soon after arrival.

photos: Auschwitz.ORG

Auschwitz Concentration Camp opened in former Polish army barracks in June 1940. Twenty brick buildings were adapted, of which 6 were two-storeys and 14 were single-story. At the end of 1940, prisoners began adding second stories to the single-storey blocks. The following spring, they started erecting 8 new blocks. This work reached completion in the first half of 1942. The result was a complex of 28 two-storeys blocks, the overwhelming majority of which were used to house prisoners. As a rule, there were two large rooms upstairs and a number of smaller rooms downstairs. The blocks were designed to hold about 700 prisoners each after the second stories were added, but in practice they housed up to 1,200.During the first several months, the prisoners’ rooms had neither beds nor any other furniture. Prisoners slept on strawstuffed mattresses laid on the floor. After reveille in the morning, they piled the mattresses in a corner of the room. The rooms were so overcrowded that prisoners could sleep only on their sides, in three rows. Three-tiered bunks began appearing gradually in the rooms from February 1941. Theoretically designed for three prisoners, they in fact accommodated more. Aside from the beds, the furniture in each block included a dozen or more wooden wardrobes, several tables, and several score stools. Coal-fired tile stoves provided the heating. Wooden stable-type barracks were installed in segment BI, and above all in segments BII and BIII. These barracks had no windows. Instead, there was a row of skylights on either side at the top. A chimney duct, which heated the interior in the winter, ran almost the entire length of the barracks. The interior was divided into 18 stalls, intended originally for 52 horses. The two stalls nearest the door were reserved for prisoner functionaries, and containers for excrement stood in the two stalls at the far end.

Three-tier wooden beds or three-tier wooden bunks intended for 15 prisoners to sleep in were installed in the other stalls, for a total capacity of more than 400 prisoners per barracks.In the brick blocks, prisoners slept on straw strewn on the boards of the buks; paper mattresses stuffed with so-called “wood wool” were placed on the beds or bunks in the wooden barracks.The number of prisoners that the barracks were supposed to hold should be treated as only a starting point, since the actual number was often much higher. It varied according to the size and number of transports arriving at any given time. During the first year or so, water in sector BI was available only in the kitchen barracks, and prisoners had no access to it. Unable to wash, they went around dirty. They had to perform their bodily functions in unscreened outside privies. The barracks were frequently damp, and lice and rats were an enormous problem for the prisoners. It is therefore hardly strange that epidemics of contagious diseases erupted frequently. Sanitary conditions improved to a certain degree in 1943, when each part of the camp was outfitted with a bathhouse and equipment for disinfecting clothing and linen. Nevertheless, the capacity of these facilities in proportion to the number of prisoners limited the possibilities for making use of them. In sector BI, for instance, there were 4 barracks with sinks for washing (90 spigots per barracks), 4 toilet barracks (a sewer with a concrete lid that had 58 toilet openings in it), and 2 barracks containing toilets and sinks—for a sector containing 62 barracks housing prisoners.

photos: Auschwitz.ORG

KL AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU

When the Red Army reached the line of the Vistula-Wisłoka in July-August 1944, less than 200 km. from Oświęcim, the German leadership was considering two options for the camp: either liquidation in the case of continued success by the Red Army, or holding onto the camp under favorable circumstances. The Germans therefore initiated a series of evacuation-liquidation steps lasting through the middle of January 1945, but they refrained from doing anything that would make it impossible for the camp to continue functioning. While they were leading the Auschwitz prisoners onto the evacuation marches and afterwards in January 1945, the SS set about their final steps to remove the evidence of the crimes they had committed in the camp. They blew up crematoria II and III, which had already been partially dismantled, on January 20, and crematorium V, still in operational condition, on January 26. On January 23, they set fire to “Kanada II,” the complex of storage barracks holding property plundered from the victims of extermination. Soldiers of the 60th Army of the First Ukrainian Front opened the gates of Auschwitz Concentration Camp on January 27, 1945. The prisoners greeted them as authentic liberators. It was a paradox of history that soldiers formally representing Stalinist totalitarianism brought freedom to the prisoners of Nazi totalitarianism.The Red Army obtained detailed information about Auschwitz only after the liberation of Cracow, and was therefore unable to reach the gates of Auschwitz before January 27, 1945. About 7 thousand prisoners awaited liberation in the Main Camp, Birkenau, and Monowitz. Over 230 Soviet soldiers, including the commander of the 472nd regiment, Col. Siemen Lvovich Besprozvanny, died in combat while liberating the Main Camp, Birkenau, Monowitz, and the city of Oświęcim. The majority of them are buried at the municipal cemetery in Oświęcim.In the Main Camp and Birkenau, Soviet soldiers discovered the corpses of about 600 prisoners who had been shot by the withdrawing SS or who had succumbed to exhaustion.

Jews deported to Auschwitz by country of origin (excluding other concentration camps approx. 34 000) source: www.70.auschwitz.org 1. Hungary: 430 000 2. Poland: 300 000 3. France: 39 000 4. Nederland: 60 000 5. Grece: 55 000 6. Czech Republic (Theresienstadt): 46 000 7. Slovakia: 27 000 8. Belgium: 25 000 9. Germany and Austria: 23 000 10. Jugoslavia: 10 000 11. Latvia : 1 000 12. Norway: 690

Visiting

reflect

photos: Jarosław Fiedor www.facebook.com/JarekFiedor

Opening hours: The Museum is open all year long, seven days a week, except 1st January, 25th December, and Easter Sunday.

You can start the visit in the following hours*: 9:00 AM - 2:00 PM December 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM January, November 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM February 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM March, October9:00 AM - 6:00 PM April, May, September 8:00 AM - 7:00 PM June, July, August * These are the hours of entrance to the Museum. A visitor may stay on the site of the Museum 90 minutes after the last entrance hour (i.e. 5.30 PM in February or 8.30 PM in July)

Visiting

photos: Jarosław Fiedor www.facebook.com/JarekFiedor

VISIT & RESERVE

Due to an overwhelming interest in visiting the Auschwitz Memorial, a new website has been created:Â visit.auschwitz.org. An online reservation is the only guarantee of entering the Museum on the date and time of your choice.The new website is dedicated to both individual visitors and organised groups. A new function on the user-friendly website is a possibility for individual visitors to book a group tour with an educator, as well as to make the payment online. In order to take in the grounds and exhibitions in a suitable way, visitors should set aside a minimum of about 90 minutes for the Auschwitz site and the same amount of time for Auschwitz II-Birkenau. It is essential to visit both parts of the camp, Auschwitz I and Auschwitz IIBirkenau, in order to acquire a proper sense of the place that has become the symbol of the Holocaust of the European Jews as well as Nazi crimes against Poles, Romas and other groups.

KL Auschwitz-Birkenau

photos: Jarosław Fiedor www.facebook.com/JarekFiedor

TIMELESS ŚWIDNICA 88 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

HISTORY source: www.kosciolpokoju.pl/en

The Church of Peace was founded by virtue of the Peace of Westphalia (hence its name) which ended the Thirty Years’ War (16181648). Before the war, the townsfolk of Świdnica were free to follow Luther’s ideas and Lutheran services were held in the town. When the war broke out, the Protestants were deprived of the right to have their own faith and their own churches. However under the Peace of Westphalia, the Catholic emperor Ferdinand III of Habsburg was obliged by the Swedish to allow the Protestants in the hereditary duchies of Jawor, Głogów, and Świdnica to build one so-called Church of Peace in each duchy. Although the consent of the Habsburgs had many severe restrictions – the Protestants could only build their place of worship outside the town walls, it could not have any towers nor a belfry, and it could only be built from non-durable materials like wood, sand, straw, or clay. The building could not look like a church and the construction works could not last longer than a year.

Against all odds, the Protestants at the time displayed extraordinary resourcefulness. Even the poorest of the community brought something to the table, if only one wooden board. All social classes were involved in the construction process – the nobility, the burghers and the peasants. One inhabitant of Świdnica, Christian Czepko, even set out on a journey to European Protestant courts to ask for money for the construction. The hard work paid off, as construction was completed on time and in 1657 the first service was held in the Church of Peace in Świdnica.

Two similar churches were built in Głogów (which was burned down after 100 years), and in Jawor (which is still standing today).The Church of Peace in Świdnica is a half-timbered church (the timber frames are filled with wattle and daub) based on a cross-shaped plan.Later, the main body of the church was extended to make room for the Hall of Baptism and sacristy in the east, the Hall of the Dead in the west, the Hall of Weddings in the south, and the Hall of in the north. The 1090 m2 church can accommodate 7500 people.

The exquisite 18th century wooden altar dominates the Baroque interior. The relief above the altar stone shows the Last Supper.

Above the relief stand sculpted figures of Moses, arch-priest Aaron, Jesus, John the Baptist and the apostles Peter and Paul. The central scene between the figures shows the baptism of Christ in the river Jordan. The frieze above the six Corinthian columns holds the inscription: “Dies ist mein geliebter Sohn, an dem ich Wohigefallen habe” (“This is my beloved Son, with whom I am well pleased” – Matthew 3:17). The altar is surmounted by a book with seven seals, a lamb and a banner.The other dominating element is the 18th century pulpit. The body of the pulpit is supported by Faith with a cross, Hope with an anchor and Love with a child. The pulpit is crowned by the figure of an angel with a trumpet announcing the Last Judgement.

The stairs leading to the pulpit are decorated with reliefs showing the descent of the Holy Spirit, the Golgotha, and the Paradise. The hourglass on the lectern was divided into four half-hour parts that measured the length of the sermon.

17th century pipe organs, decorated with moving figures of angels, with a wonderful Baroque casing supported by two Atlases, have just been thoroughly renovated. Due to numerous reparations, the large organs have often been out of operation. Therefore a second set of smaller organs were built in the topmost gallery over the altar. There are several levels of galleries inscribed with 78 fragments from the Bible and 47 allegoric scenes.

These are richly decorated with epitaphs and guild shields of the bakers, brewers, butchers, cloth traders, etc., as well as portraits of the townsfolk and nobles.The most privileged families had their own boxes, the most impressive of which is the one belonging to the Hochbergs. It is a token of gratitude for the family of count Johann Heinrich von Hochberg, who donated two thousand oaks – two-thirds of the wood needed for the church’s construction. The paintings on the ceiling show the Holy Trinity, the Last Judgement, the Heavenly Jerusalem and the Fall of Babylon.

While in the Baptism Hall, make sure to pay attention to the wooden polychrome baptismal font from 1661, the portraits of clerics who delivered sermons during the 300 years of the church’s history, and their lush liturgical robes.

The church is situated in the central part of the Square of Peace, surrounded by a wall one kilometre long. Among the historic stand of trees, one can find 17th and 18th century monuments – the belfry, the old Evangelical high school (now a boarding house Barokowy Zakątek, i.e. BarocCorner), the Bell-ringer’s house with the lavender garden (now the Centre for Promotion and UNESCO Partnership), the Gatekeeper's House (Baroccafe) and the cemetery that served as the sole burial place for several thousand Evangelicals for 250 years.

Following its renovation, the parish house will become the seat of the Lower-Silesian Evangelical Institute.

Here the valuable collection of the parish will be made available to the visitors, including the 300-year-old Bibles and old prints form one of the largest Lutheran archives in Poland.

After World War II, the Evangelical parish in Świdnica dwindled from over twelve thousand to around one hundred faithful.

The church is still their home today, but at the same time it also functions as a monument of growing esteem – the church is one of only three monuments in Lower Silesia inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

It is also a symbol of reconciliation: in 1989, prime minister Tadeusz Mazowiecki and German chancellor Helmut Kohl prayed for peace here on their way to Krzyżowa. In 2014, Angela Merkel, the Chancellor of Germany, and Ewa Kopacz, the Prime Minister of Poland, participated in an ecumenical prayer for peace. In 2011, the church was also visited by the Swedish royal couple King Gustav XVI and Queen Sylvia.

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The renovation of the church, conducted by specialists hired from Poland and Germany, was initiated in 1990s by Rev. Waldemar Pytel.

The fact that this building, which is made from non-durable materials, has survived for 350 years, displays an astounding endurance that is nothing short of phenomenal. The renovation of the church was supported by the following organisations: The German Centre of Craftsmanship and Conservation of Historical Monuments in Fulda, the Federal Ministry of Research and Technology in Bonn, the Federal Foundation of Environmental Protection in Osnabrück, the Foundation of Polish-German Cooperation, the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, EEA Grants, Norway Grants, and many others.

For more information about the revitalisation see: www.luteranskaenklawa.pl

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THE CHURCH OF PEACE A PLACE WHERE HISTORY HAS BEEN MADE SINCE 1657 The parish of the Evangelical Church of the Augsburg Confession under the invocation of the Holy Trinity plac Pokoju 6, 58-100 Świdnica Tel./fax +48 74 852 28 14 kosciol@kosciol.pl www.kosciolpokoju.pl/en 91 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

a day in

caves in Tatra mountains photography:

Krzysztof Borgieł

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EX PERI ENCE When it comes to relationships, we are taught to work in a team during the courses. Everyone looks after the person behind him and thanks to this we increase the possibility of a quick reaction to a potential accident, which, fortunately, does not happen too often in the caves.

CAVES IN TATRA MOUNTAINS Krzysztof Borgieł Picturesque landscapes and unique areas of our Tatra Mountains attract millions of tourists every year, both domestic and foreigners. However, not all the beauty is easily seen. Sometimes you need to go 'straight inside the Tatra Mountains' to see their beauty in all their glory. There are 864 caves discovered in the Polish part of the Tatra Mountains, the total length of which exceeds 134 km. Most of them are located in the Western Tatras, but only a fraction of a percent are available to the common tourist. Caves have fascinated people for a long time, so it's no wonder that even today the desire to get to know the beauty of the underworld is a powerful incentive to explore them. The caves have been made available to tourists in the Tatra Mountains since the beginning of tourist exploration here. In the 18th and 19th centuries, caverns and holes located near Zakopane were explored. The explorers described their charm, providing information to wider and wider circles of people interested in the unknown. We will talk to Krzysztof Borgieł about the Tatra caves, not forgetting about those inaccessible to everyday tourists.

TLP: Krzysztof, I know that speleology is your passion. How long have you been dealing with cave exploration? What were the beginnings of this fascination? Perhaps in Poland it is a small community, isn't it? What attracts speleologists, and especially you personally, deep into the earth? Darkness, silence, unknown, the mysterious world?

Krzysztof Borgieł: Starting from the beginning. It all began around 2001/2002 at a scout camp and although the first cave I visited with my dad at the age of 6 was the Mroźna Cave in the Kościeliska Valley, it was then, at the camp, when I felt this special kind of attraction. One day in the camp, we were taken to Berkowa Cave (the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland, massif of Zborów Mountain). It is a technically simple, short (60m), horizontal cave, which we get through practically entirely by crawling. I liked this crawl in the darkness so much that I decided to continue exploring caves after the camp. It turned out that in the Beskids, which are close to me, there is a large number of caves. We formed a group of several people and together we explored the underground corridors in the Silesian Beskids. In addition, in my town of CzechowiceDziedzice, there was an active scout club of Tatra Cave mountaineering. Together I got to know many vertical caves in Jura and I learned the basic rope techniques. The real beginning, however, was joining the "Speleoklub" Cave Mountaineering Club in Bielsko Biała in 2005.

After a one-year course, I obtained the qualifications of a cave mountaineer. So this year, it is the 15th anniversary of my "official" cave activity. When it comes to the cave mountaineers' community, there is actually a handful of us compared to the "surface" mountaineers. Cave actions are not easy and quite complex.Additionally, I think the caves are just less known and less attractive. So, few people choose this type of activity. The essence of cave climbing is exploration, that is, discovering new caves or exploring new corridors of existing caves. I think that's what draws us mainly to the underworld. There is also a hint of exclusivity that some may be looking for right here.

TLP: Before talking about the real adventure of discovering caves, I would like to ask about those more accessible to tourists. How many of them are there and where are they situated? Are all of them in the Kościeliska Valley? Which one is the most beautiful?

Apparently visiting most of the tourists' Tatra caves have little to do with a comfortable train journey and requires some effort? Do you recommend any of them in particular?

KB: First of all, tourist caves are found not only in the Tatra Mountains. We have for example, the Bear Cave in Kletno (Sudety Mountains), Raj Cave (Świętokrzyskie Mountains), and many caves in the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland (Głęboka- Zborów Mountain), and Wierzchowska Górna (Kluczywoda Valley). When it comes to the Tatra Mountains, it is true that we have the most caves available for tourists in the Kościeliska Valley.

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We have, among others Mroźna Cave, Smocza Jama (Dragon's Cave), Raptawicka, and Mylna, which I recommend the most. The tourist route is marked, but the name "Mylna" (which may be translated as "wrong" or "misleading") obliges and many have lost their orientation there. The whole passage is long and interesting. There are chambers, larger corridors, but also narrow passages. So remember that people with claustrophobia should not go there.

TLP: Let's move on to the main topic. Expeditions to the caves surely increase the level of adrenaline and they attract with their dark, not fully known nature. However, it should be remembered that they also hide many dangers. How should one prepare before going to the cave? Physical effort while exploring and potential threats are an inseparable element of the expedition. It isn't probably an adventure for everyone, is it? Do you need special skills or maybe any official permissions?

more horizontal corridors where we can find quite a lot of beautiful karst phenomena. I do not agree that the Tatra caves are not beautiful. For me, the beauty of caves is not only stalactites, etc.

It is also austerity, darkness, high chimneys, deep wells, and tight meanders.

Although everyone probably has their own definition of beauty, one of my favourites is Mietusia Cave because it offers everything a cave can. Huge spaces, cramped passages, siphons, lakes, and drips. It is a winter course classic, so whoever decides to take the course will definitely get to know it.

TLP: What are the relationships between speleologists in the group? Apparently in mountaineering, there is often a rule that everyone is on their own in the moment of the greatest danger. Is it the same with cave exploration? In my memory there is still a dramatic incident that took place in 2019 in the largest and deepest Śnieżna Cave, when, contrary to many opinions, some cavers wanted to return and save their friends.

photography: Niedzwiedzia Cave

KB: If you want to start practicing cave climbing, I encourage you to first join one of the clubs associated in the Polish Mountaineering Association (www.pza.org.pl/jaskinie) and take a cave climbing course. Then, you will be able to navigate through each cave safely. Please note that in order to be able to wander around the caves in the Tatra National Park, you must have such a course completed. When it comes to fitness and general condition, as in the case of other mountain sports, I do not recommend "getting up from behind the desk" and going to the cave. However, backbreaking training is not required to move around the caves relatively efficiently. If you do not plan ambitious sports walks or heavy exploration, then the average level of sports activity is enough, for example, bike, jogging or mountain trekking 3 times a week. I also recommend turning on the gym workout. Strong muscles are of crucial importance and additionally you will reduce the risk of injury.

TLP: Tell me about your favourite cave, if we can call it that. Why did you get to like it? There are those who say that the Tatra caves are not beautiful (for example, that there are not many stalactites or stalagmites there)?

KB: That's true. There aren't many typical dripstones in the Tatras. In large vertical caves we will hardly experience them at all. However, there are smaller caves with 94 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

KB: As for the accident. I will not speak out because many well-known and respected colleagues from the community already spoke up. The fact is that broadly understood help from the community was actually offered - and that's it. When it comes to relationships, we are taught to work in a team during the courses.

Everyone looks after the person behind him and thanks to this we increase the possibility of a quick reaction to a potential accident, which, fortunately, does not happen too often in the caves. It is acceptable to divide the group in smaller teams, but we do not leave anyone in need. This arrangement works and personally suits me well. The caves are dangerous and underground rescue operations are among the most difficult ones. We have to remember that.

TLP: Do you think there much left to discover in the Tatras, potentially new caves ?

DISCOVER

photography: Krzysztof Borgieł

KB: Of course, there is a lot to discover in the Tatras, just like in the rest of the world. You won't necessarily find new independent cave systems, but in the already existing ones there are for sure many kilometres of corridors to explore.

Usually, explorers keep all activities secret until the survey work is completed.

Theoretically, there is a rule that you do not enter your exploration area, but if someone has the audacity to break this unwritten rule, it is better to keep certain information secret. At the moment I know only a few rumours about new discovered parts in existing caves. But let's wait for the official confirmation.

photography: Krzysztof Borgieł

thanks for a chat!

Selected caves In the Polish part of the Tatra Mountains, there are 864 caves, the total length of which exceeds 134 km. Most of the caves are located in the Western Tatras, specifically in the Kościeliska Valley and the Mała Łąka Valley, although several are located in the Bystra Valley. Only six are accessible to tourists, five of which are located in the Kościeliska Valley. They are mostly caves exceeding 100 meters in length, and six of them are among the longest caves of the TPN, exceeding 1000 meters in length. Many inaccessible caves are recognized as extremely valuable objects, where human presence could have a negative impact. They are also mostly small and unattractive in terms of the Tatra mountaineering natural facilities, but they themselves, as well as their surroundings and access routes, are valuable areas in terms of nature.

a flashlight, it can be a problem to get out of the intricate labyrinth of corridors in the dark. It may turn out that no one comes to help for a long time.

If one does not meet another group of tourists, we can be sure that our call will not be heard and mobile phones will not help us due to the lack of coverage.

When visiting each cave, you must remember that the temperature inside does not exceed a few degrees Celsius, regardless of the season. Even if it is hot outside, you shouldn't forget to wear warm clothes when going into the cave.

Caves of the Kościeliska Valley

Mroźna Cave

The Kościeliska Valley is an area rich in caves. Out of approximately 450 discovered so far, four have been made available to tourists, with marked tourists trails running through them. These are Mroźna, Raptawicka, Mylna, and Smocza Jama caves. Except for the Mroźna Cave, which is lit electrically, the other three require you to take your own light source (flashlight, preferably a headlamp). Particular care should be taken when visiting the Mylna Cave. Here, in the event of a loss of

The path to the Mroźna Cave begins in the Kościeliska Valley, right in front of the Kraszewski Gate (about half an hour from the entrance to the valley in Kiry). Within 15-20 minutes, the forest path takes you about 150 meters above the valley floor, where the entrance opening is located.

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Admission to the caves is extra, regardless of the entrance fee to the national park.

Tourists are let inside in groups and a guide gives a short lecture in front of the entrance.The cave has only one, almost horizontal, electrically lit corridor along its entire length (approximately 570 meters). The name of the cave (Mroźna in English means ‘frosty’) derives from the constant temperature of six degrees celsius, regardless of the season. On the walls, you can admire rich dripstone forms.It takes about half an hour to walk the entire cave to its exit opening. The descent back to the bottom of the Kościeliska Valley takes about fifteen minutes and it is a different route than the approach, leading in some places on very steep steps.

Kraków Gorge and Smocza Jama (Dragon’s Lair) Cave The entrance to the Krakow Gorge, which is the eastern branch of the Kościeliska Valley, is located just behind the Pisana Clearing, approximately one hour from the entrance to the valley.

photography: Niedzwiedzia Cave

After a few minutes, the forest surroundings of the path transform into a dark and cold scenery. The rocky limestone walls towering above the ravine reminded highlanders of Krakow tenement houses in the old days, hence, the name of this place.A fifteen-minute walk down the narrow ravine leads to a steel ladder, which is the beginning of a steep climb to the cave of Smocza Jama. The remaining part of the gorge, running towards the southeast, is not open to tourists. If someone does not like climbing ladders and chains, they must return to the Kościeliska Valley. The Smocza Jama is a single and short (37 meters), but steep corridor that pierces right through the rock in Ratusz crag. You must have a flashlight to go through the cave.

First, a ladder and then a short string of chains leads from the bottom of the ravine over the rocks, in a slight exposure, to the lower opening of the cave. The entire length of the corridor is secured with chains and takes about 1ten minutes to walk.

You can also bypass the cave by using the variant of the trail that leads outside (a steep path secured with chains). The descent back to the Kościeliska Valley follows a one-way trail, leading under Ratusz and Saturn crags down to the Pisana Clearing.

Raptawicka and Mylna Caves These caves are located close to each other. Their outlet openings are located in the limestone slope of a crag called Raptawicka Turnia, which slopes down with a cliff towards the Kościeliska Valley.

The beginning of the access path to both caves is on the main road leading down the valley, just behind the branch of the trail to the Kraków Gorge. It is approximately one hour from the entrance to the valley in Kiry.

The first difficulties you may experience at the very beginning of the trail is where you have to cover a steep rock secured with chains.Then, within a few minutes, there is a walk along a steep forest path to the crossing of the trails. The road forks here into two branches.

Horizontally, the red trail continues to the Mylna Cave, and the black-marked path to the Raptawicka Cave, still steeply up the hill. A few minutes further ascent ends with a steep wall, secured with chains that are used for belaying.

Climbing the wall should not be difficult, even for beginners. The ascent ends above the main chamber of the Raptawicka Cave, to which there is a descent using a 3.5-meter steel ladder.

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367-16

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' Poznan museum of "pyra"

WE INVITE YOU TO THE POTATO MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ!

"The unique atmosphere is complemented by special guide costumes..."

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www.muzeumpyry.pl

Potato called Pyra in the vicinity of Poznań are very interesting vegetables, and the fourth most popular crop in the world.

Potatoes came to us from South America, and their history – from that sixteenthcentury journey to the moment they hit our tables – is long, eventful and very interesting. In Poland, potatoes, on an industrial scale, were first accepted in Wielkopolska. That is why Poznań cannot do without the Potato Museum of Poznan – its symbol. The Potato Museum of Poznan is a modern tourist facility, where guides are dealt with on an interesting and humorously designed educational path. In the museum there are interactive points of interest, in which the viewer becomes a participant of the tour. Guests of the museum will move to an exotic Peru, together with Francisco Pizarro, will conquer the Incan empire, visit the manor house of King Jan III Sobieski, take part in the excavations and learn how the Colorado beetle was fought. The unique atmosphere is complemented by special guide costumes, the smell of roasted potatoes, and thematic soundtrack. Every guest takes part in the workshops of seasoning and baking his own Pyra. The Potato Museum of Poznan is the only such place in Poland devoted entirely to potatoes.

photo and artwork: the Potato Museum of Poznań

about Poznań Poznań is a delightful city found in the west-central part of the country. As one of Poland’s oldest cities, there is plenty for tourists to discover here, from the ancient to the modern. With over 60,000 students, Poznań is also a university town. This means it not only has all the academic and cultural institutions that come along with a university but plenty of bars and clubs to keep everyone entertained. Poznań’s Old Market Square is the third-largest in Poland and provides many exciting sights to see, such as the colorful 16th-century merchant houses. You won’t get the full effect of the European market life if you don’t stop for a coffee in one of the cafes here! About one-fifth of the city is covered in greenery. Nature lovers will find plenty to do in and around the city. You’ll find the Morasko Meteorite Reserve, where you can see firsthand craters that were created by meteorites. Wielkopolska Natural Park and the thousand-year-old oaks of Rogalin are all nearby. You can observe thousands of tropical plants, reptiles, and fish at the Palm House. Poznań also has a zoo, which is an excellent place for families to visit. The city has four large lakes within its borders, making it a great place to enjoy watersports and recreation. A yearly regatta takes place on the grand Malta Lake. There is also a summer festival called the Malta Festival, which features big names in music and dance.

An artificial ski slope gives visitors a chance to ski even in the middle of the summer. If you visit in December, Poznań is a host to one of the most sizable and lively Christmas markets in Poland.

Poznań is known for hosting some of the major trade fairs. If you’re planning to visit the city, it's a good idea to reserve your hotel room far in advance if your stay coincides with one of these fairs. Most of the shows take place during the summer, transforming the city’'s winter tranquility into a lively, bustling place to visit. In the 9th century, Mieszko I Castle Palacium was the very first Polish Christian temple. The island of Ostrów Tumski, located in between the Warta and Cybina Rivers, holds an essential role in the history of Poland and is undoubtedly worth a visit. The Gothic Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski has ornate decorations and beautiful artwork that leave a lasting impression on all who visit.

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"Every guest takes part in the workshops of seasoning and baking his own Pyra"

TOUR The tour lasts about 60 minutes and starts at every full hour.

Guided tours in English with prior reservation.

Ticket price in English: - 19 zł The museum is open: Tuesday-Sunday 10AM-6PM

Wroniecka 18 Str. 61-763 Poznań tel. +48 609 121 611 tel. +48 605 681 588 biuro@muzeumpyry.pl www.muzeumpyry.pl

photos: the Potato Museum of Poznan!

Małolipnicanie Łukasz Sowiński Orawa Back to school www.facebook.com/zsercaorawy

Małolipnicanie

ŁUKASZ SOWIŃSKI www.facebook.com/zsercaorawy

on photos: Wiola Kidoń and Olivier Warzeszak from the Małolpinicanie folk band visit: www.facebook.com/Małolipnicanie

The beginning of September is often associated with returning to school. For some children it is a joy, while other feel rather sad. Several dozen years ago in Orava it used to be quite the same. Children were happy to go back to school as thanks to it they could take a break from work on the farm. During the holidays, children helped with grazing the cows, drying hay, and harvesting. When school started, they could spend at least half of the day with their friends. The second half of the day was all about work: grazing, harvesting, and other housework. Just because kids were happy to be back at school didn’t mean it was always an easy and pleasant experience. Quite a few unruly students had bruised fingers as a consequence of a form of punishment often used for poor education results, bad behaviour, or sometimes just for ‘innocence’. But at the same time, no student complained at home that he was treated badly at school, as it was often associated with receiving second ‘punishment’ at home.

Małolipnicanie is a regional children's and youth folk band operating at the Małolipnicanie Association in Lipnica Mała, bringing together children and adolescents from four to sixteen years of age. The group was founded in 2012 and has already brought up a large group of musicians playing in various bands as adults. Currently, the team consists of 60 people divided into age and workshop groups. From the very beginning, the manager and thus the initiator of the creation of the band has been Ms. Grażyna Kubacka. She is the one who organizes workshops, trips and she is responsible for the coordination of all kinds of projects that she herself searches, writes, and accounts for. She also runs the association's accounting and takes care of the proper functioning of the band. An important thing to mention is the fact that Ms. Grażyna conducts her activities for the group entirely as a volunteer, devoting to her spare time after work to it. The dance and singing instructor is Anna Olesińska, a resident of Lipnica Mała, a certified instructor of regional ensembles, a graduate of the Folklore School at the ‘Sokół’ Cultural Centre in Nowy Sącz, regionalist, poet, and employee of the Orava Cultural Centre in Jabłonka. The violin and bass lessons are taught by Paweł Czaja, who comes from a family with strong musical roots.

Privately, an employee in the Jabłonka community office. The main aim of the classes is the transmission of the former functions of a rural child. The function of these activities is to use old, authentic, and archaic types of play activities that serve the purpose of rapprochement, mutual integration, and getting to know one another. The interest in the old culture of children and

adolescents is extremely important aspect to their development, it allows them to return to their roots, which consequently means getting to know their own history of the region, which is very important in identifying and shaping their regional identity. During the workshops, children learn the songs, melodies, dance and games of Orava, which have been replaced by modern times' activities, and which used to be the backbone of the life of an old village child. The form of teaching in a team is learning through play, and it means primarily fun and engaging emotions, which encourages children to learn willingly and faster.

In addition, they wait longingly for next classes, eager to learn more games and fun activities that improve them not only physically, but which exercise their psyche as well. Thanks to carefully selected forms of play appropriate to the age of children, it is possible to achieve amazing results, thus distracting them from the great threat posed by the inappropriate and uncontrolled use of the Internet and television today. Play is the basis of socialization. It helps teach children to deal with conflicts, develops cognitive skills, and, importantly, teaches cooperation with others, as well as working out a way to achieve compromises.The band takes part in various reviews, competitions at local, national, or international stages.

With their dancing, singing, and programs depicting the former rural life, they enrich local festivities and holidays. When they are invited by other regions and voivodships, they proudly represent the Orava region. They are also often invited to show their program outside the country.

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The band has already won lots of awards, including: 1st-degree award for Paweł Czaja and Artur Olesiński in the master-apprentice category at the National Festival of Folk Singing Bands in Kazimierz Dolny in 2020 1st place for Paweł Czaja and his students in the masterapprentice category at the Festival of Polish Highlanders in Żywiec in 2019 and 3rd place in 2020

The group also actively participates in the life of the church in its parish, providing the musical setting for the largest church celebrations. Several years ago, Małolipnicanie established cooperation with the local master of photography, Łukasz Sowiński, with whom they have carried out joint projects and ideas.

Ania Olesinska '

1st place at the International Review of Regional Bands "Złoty Kłos" in Zebrzydowice in the category: children's band in 2017, 2018 and 2019 in the category: authentic regional band, 1st place in 2019 1st place in the Podhale Musicians Competition in 2018 and 2019 in the category of children's and youth bands.

photos: Łukasz Sowiński

In 2019, the band was nominated to participate in the largest international festival "Święta Dzieci Gór" (Mountain Children’s Holidays) in Nowy Sącz, which was to take place this year, but due to the current situation, it was postponed to 2021.

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VISIT: WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/MAŁOLIPNICANIE

photos: Łukasz Sowiński WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ZSERCAORAWY WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/SOWINSKIFOTOPL

WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/KRAJOBRAZYSOWINSKIFOTO

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photos: Łukasz Sowiński

photos: Łukasz Sowiński

photos: Łukasz Sowiński

the past Puppets from the “Zielony Balonik” (“Green Balloon”) nativity play — Jacek Malczewski Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Author: Juliusz Pugeta Date of production: unknown Place of creation: Kraków Dimensions: height: 51 cm, (head: 11 cm, body: 40 cm) Museum: Historical Museum of the City of Kraków Material: gypsum, cardboard, cloth, hemp rope Object copyright: Historical Museum of the City of Kraków

A funny puppet A funny puppet representing Jacek Malczewski in a caricatural character of Jacek Symbolewski was purchased for the collection of the Historical Museum of the City of Kraków in 1962. It makes a valuable reminder related with the Young Poland cabaret called Zielony Balonik [Green Balloon] operating in the period from 1905 to 1912 on Floriańska Street in Kraków in the Cukiernia Lwowska [Lviv Confectionery] opened by Jan Apolinary Michalik and hence called Jama Michalika [Michalik’s Den]. The puppet comes from the famous nativity play of 1911, staged in the newly-restored Michalik’'s confectionery, the interior of which was designed by Karol Frycz. This is how the play was described by Tadeusz Boy-Żeleński, its animator and co-author: “And we came up with the idea of making a nativity play (szopka) there, with a totally new text and new figures; and to stage it not only once, as it had happened in the past, but for a public with tickets and for as many times as possible! The demon of greed already entered our hearts.

We got down to work with an enthusiasm not seen in a long time. A faded nativity scene was thus restored, shining with all the colours of the rainbow; it was furnished with modern lighting installations. The puppets were made by Szczepkowski and Kunzek, several puppets — real masterpieces — were made by Puszet [Ludwik Puget]. Me and Nos [Witold Noskowski], with the frequent participation of Teofil [Trzciński], got down to writing the texts.” (T. Boy-Żeleński, O Szopce krakowskiej „Zielonego Balonika” [About the Kraków Szopka of the Zielony Balonik Cabaret”] [in:] idem, O Krakowie [On Kraków], Kraków 1974, p. 491).

The legend of the “Green Balloon” cabaret The originator of the idea of creating an artistic cabaret was Jan August Kisielewski, after his return from Paris. Cukiernia Lwowska [Lviv Confectionery], run by Jan Michalik, was a meeting place for the Kraków bohemians to which belonged students and graduates of the Academy of Fine arts, who gathered at one of the tables.

The creation of the Zielony Balonik [Green Balloon] cabaret would not have been possible were it not for the favourable circumstances providing fertile ground for this initiative. One of the factors heralding the breath of fresh air was the transformation of the School of Fine Arts into the Academy of Fine Arts after the death of Jan Matejko, as well as the new cadre of professors, including Wyczółkowski, Axentowicz and Pankiewicz.

Equally important for the Kraków bohemians was the previous emergence of Wyspiański and the activity of Przybyszewski. All these destroyed the image of a sleepy and venerable Kraków, seen through the conservatism represented by Stanisław Tarnowski, the then rector of the Jagiellonian University and president of the Polish Academy of Learning, who was frequently dubbed the pope of Kraków due to his conservative views.

The tradition of the Kraków nativity scenes, animated by bricklayers from Krowodrza who remained unemployed during the wintertime, inspired the Kraków bohemians, who saw in it the best inspiration for their cabaret.

What did the cabaret evenings look like?The meetings were usually held after the theatrical premieres, for the preparation of which there were only several weeks. The evening began at midnight and often lasted until three o’clock. The end of the artistic part, however, did not mean the end of the meeting. Initially the evenings of the Zielony Balonik cabaret were largely improvised: everybody could stand up and sing his or her favourite song or improvise a speech. The group of spectators was elitist, as only those who received invitations could attend the meetings. If someone showed dissatisfaction, he or she was not invited any more. description: www.muzeumkrakowa.pl, This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Poland License.

new Book

Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek

An Invitation to the Table

Polish cuisine has changed a great deal over the centuries.

Today, it resembles a colourful necklace with beads contributed to it by various nationalities and ethnic groups.

The Slavs introduced aromatic flatbreads, groats, the technique of smoking, and currently trendy fermented products. When Poland joined the realm of Christian culture, bread and wine gained more importance. Friars perfected recipes for beer, started fruit orchards and cultivated medicinal plants. The food at the royal court and in the homes of wealthy aristocrats was very refined. Numerous servants made sure to cater to all guests’ needs. Polish cuisine started taking inspiration from foreign countries. Spices were imported from overseas and the influence of Italian and French cuisine left its trace in old cookbooks. The Tatars, on the other hand, popularised buckwheat. Many flour-based dishes came from the East. Without Jewish cuisine, there would be nowhere near as many recipes for carp, sweet challah or bagels, which are now popular all over the world.

Nowadays, dishes from a great variety of cuisines can be eaten in Poland – Japanese sushi and rāmen, Spanish tapas, Vietnamese pho soup, Georgian khinkali, pizza, kebab and many more. In fusion restaurants, traditional Polish dishes and fermented products are enriched with Asian flavours and exotic spices. Wine and artisan beer markets are flourishing.

Small, cosy cafés offer good coffee brewed in many different ways and serve sweet food to go with it. Various initiatives organise fairs of regional products and set up shops with organic foods.

‘The Polish Table’ was created with the purpose of introducing all enthusiasts of good food and culinary travel to Polish food culture. It is a tale about history, customs and traditions, full of interesting stories and legends. The publication introduces the most important products and dishes in Polish cuisine. It also includes fourteen recipes for meat and vegetarian dishes.

The author, Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek, is a culture expert, culinary culture scholar and head of Food Studies at the SWPS University of Social Sciences and Humanities. She researches the history and anthropology of food as well as culinary tourism and diplomacy.

She has promoted Polish cuisine abroad on numerous occasions through workshops, meetings and lectures. She is the author of many publications and the recipient of various prizes, such as the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, Prix de la Littérature Gastronomique, Diamond Cuisine Award and Magellan Awards.

The book ‘The Polish Table’ is available online for free in English and Spanish. It can be downloaded from the site www.bunkatura.pl (from 30th of September 2020). The book is co-financed by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland in the competition ‘Public Diplomacy 2020 – A New Dimension’ and the partners of the publication are the Polish Vodka Association, the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Toruń Gingerbread and Hanami.

Links: www.kuchniokracja.hanami.pl www.bunkatura.pl

photo: Marta Pańczyk

Culinary culture is not limited to recipes and food preparation.

Above all, it is the story of people and places told through the lens of what has been gracing tables for centuries. People have always met to feast both on joyful and mournful occasions, taking their aromatic meats, sausages, well-risen cakes and homemade preserves with them from one festivity to another.

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The Author: Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek — orientalist, culinary culture scholar, head of Food Studies at the SWPS University, author of the following books: Culinary Traditions of Japan, Japanese Sweets, Culinary Traditions of Korea, Polish Culinary Paths, Culinary Traditions of Finland, Deserownik and The Polish Table.

Recipient of many Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, Prix de la Littérature Gastronomique, the Chinese Diamond Cuisine Award and Magellan Award. She researches the history of cuisines, anthropology of food, culinary diplomacy and tourism. She conducts meetings gives lectures, cooking classes and writes the blog Kuchniokracja. She promoted Polish culinary culture in China, Thailand, Vietnam, Moldova and on Jersey Island. get your free digital copy (from 30/09/2020):

www.bunkatura.pl

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Autumn kitchen Wild mushroom soup

Wild mushroom soup It is our favourite soup which you can cook from fresh, frozen or dried wild, forest mushrooms. It smells wonderful and it is very filling. Mushroom soup is usually served on Christmas Eve, but it is a great idea for other seasons, especially for autumn chills. Most often it is prepared with pasta, but you can also serve it with potatoes.

How to make wild mushroom soup: The soup recipe below calls for fresh mushrooms. You can also go ahead and cook the same soup using frozen mushrooms, which you only need to defrost before use. If you want to use dried mushrooms, you will need about 70-100 grams of dried mushrooms. Such mushrooms must be soaked in water for 12 hours in advance.

Mushroom soup recipe You can cook this mushroom soup from fresh, frozen or dried mushrooms: Fresh mushrooms: To make mushroom soup, you need 600 grams of forest mushrooms. These can include boletus, bay boletes, slippery jacks... If you are going to cook slippery jacks, remember that their caps need to be peeled. Rinse the mushrooms quickly and clean them.

Cut them into smaller pieces.

Frozen mushrooms: 600 grams of frozen mushrooms should be defrosted naturally, then pour off any melted glaze and slice the mushrooms in the same way as the fresh ones.

Dried mushrooms: In the recipe, I suggest using up to 100 grams of dried mushrooms. Place the dried mushrooms in a narrow vessel and pour 500 ml of cold water. Cover with a lid and set aside to soak, preferably overnight. Start heating a medium-sized pan. Place two tablespoons of delicate olive oil on it, or add vegetable oil (rice or grape seed) and two tablespoons of clarified butter (keep the third tablespoon for the roux).

Peel the large onion and chop it finely. Put in the pan. After 5 minutes of frying, also add three peeled and sliced garlic cloves. Immediately put all the mushrooms, cut into smaller pieces, into the pan. Fry all of these for 20 minutes.

After this time, add a handful of chopped dill and a flat teaspoon of salt and pepper. Stir and take the pan off the heat.

Tip: In the case of dried mushrooms, only the mushrooms are put into the pan (without the soaking water. Save the water for later.) If necessary, cut the mushrooms into smaller pieces in advance.

While the onions with mushrooms are frying in the pan, you can start preparing the soup in a pot. Pour a litre i.e. four glasses of vegetable stock into a medium sized pot. This is the most common type of broth for this soup that I use. It is the least greasy. It is worth noting, however, that the mushroom soup also goes well with poultry and even beef broth.

Add peeled and diced carrots and potatoes to the boiling broth. Cook the soup on low (with the lid on) for 15 minutes.

After this time, add the entire contents of the pan and a teaspoon of marjoram to the pot. After five minutes of cooking, it is time for the last stage - gentle whitening and thickening of the mushroom soup. In the pan where you fried the mushrooms, put a tablespoon of butter, two tablespoons of thin soup from the pot and a tablespoon of wheat flour.

Set the burner to low and mix everything until the flour is perfectly mixed with the butter and soup and starts foaming. Add also three tablespoons of 30% cream. Pour it all into a pot with a slightly simmering soup. After two minutes of cooking, you can turn off the heat. Mushroom soup can also be whitened with 18% sour cream. In this case, be very careful not to let the cream boil over. It needs to be tempered by pouring a large amount of soup from the pot into a glass with cream.

Pour the tempered cream very slowly into the soup pot. If you prefer mushroom soup with noodles, then skip the potatoes in the ingredients.

Then cook about 100-150 grams of shell pasta or small twigs separately.

Add the cooked pasta to the soup already poured on the plates.

timeing:

ingredients:

Preparation time: 40 minutes Soup cooking time: 50 minutes Servings: 2500ml of soup Calorific value in kcal: 70 in 100ml of soup

600 g of fresh or frozen mushrooms or 70-100 g of dried mushrooms 1 litre of broth (vegetable, chicken, beef) 1 large onion - 240 g 4 medium potatoes - 450 g 2 medium carrots - 220 g 3 cloves of garlic a handful of fresh dill 2 tablespoons of olive oil or other vegetable oil, e.g. rice oil 3 tablespoons of clarified butter 1 tablespoon of wheat flour 3 tablespoons of cream 30% spices and herbs: a teaspoon of marjoram, a flat teaspoon of salt and pepper

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visual guide

Recommended 14 openair museums in Poland

guide by: lovePoland

Poland is a country of 1000-year-old history, rich traditions and abundant cultural heritage. The legacy of bygone centuriesique nature reserves. The states that possess those special sites on their territory are bound to protect them from destruction. Many of the Polish skansens are ‘living’ places where old traditions and customs have been brought back to life.

1. The Rural Architecture Museum of Sanok (Polish: Muzeum Budownictwa Ludowego w Sanoku) is one of the biggest open-air museums in Poland. It was established in 1958 by Aleksander Rybicki and contains 200 buildings which have been relocated from different areas of Sanok Land (Low Beskids, Pogórze Bukowskie, Doły Jasielsko Sanockie). The Sanok museum shows 19th and early 20th century life in this area of Poland. The park is divided into distinct but similar-looking sections – each featuring an ethnic group who lived in the region prior to the post-World War II forced resettlements. Rusyns (Boykos, Lemkos and Dolinians) and Polish Uplanders (pl. Pogórzanie) homes and churches have been transported there from surrounding villages, restored to their original condition and furnished with authentic objects of the period. The ethnographic museum in Sanok has undergone a major transformation in the last two years. A "new" Rynek (Town Square) has been built just inside the entrance. It is a replica of a Galician town square from the second half of the 19th century, inhabited by Polish Jewish and Rusyn populations.

2. Folk Museum in Kolbuszowa. Our open-air museum consists of charming villages from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. They present the culture of Lasowiacy and Rzeszowiacy ethnic groups, who inhabited the area of the northern part of the present Subcarpathian Voivodeship. In the openair museum, you can see a world that no longer exists, learn the fascinating stories of people living here and understand the peasant soul. On almost 30 hectares, you can find over 80 objects of wooden architecture. They include cottages, stables, cowsheds, pigsties, henhouses, barns, granaries, horse mill, hay barrack, rural industry buildings like a watermill, windmills, forges, oil mill and pottery, and also public buildings - a school, tavern and fire station. The oldest buildings are: a manor house from Brzeziny from 1753, a manorial granary from Bidziny from 1784, a barn from Markowa from 1804 and a church from Rzochów built in 1843.

3. Radom Village Museum. In the Radom Village Museum, there are exhibits of folk architecture. Museum exhibitions in peasant interiors change in accordance with the annual cycle, introducing visitors to the traditional celebration of liturgical holidays. Museum of Village the Radomskiej his the gatherings the come 16 000 movable exhibits among which on details attention deserves collections: vehicles, agricultural machines, copper dishes, hives and different.Museum village Radomskiej In Museum of Radomskiej Village of interior and the surroundings of antique buildings alters the sie with rhythm the world church together with, the field works as well as the times of year.

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4. Museum of the Mazovian Countryside in Sierpc It takes the area of over 60 ha of picturesquely located terrain on the River Sierpienica. It is situated in the administrative borders of Sierpc. The exhibition includes 10 peasant farmhouses (comprising residential and farm buildings) and an inn, smithy, windmill, chapel and church. In the ethnographic museum you can also visit interesting permanent exhibitions presented in the sculpture gallery (the collection of folk and monumental sculpture), coach house (the collection of courtly means of transport) and in the court (residential interiors from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century) 5. Archaeological Museum in Biskupin It is the best known archaeological reserve in Central Europe which protects the old defensive village from the turn of the Bronze and Iron Age that was inhabited by people of the Lusatian culture. It was originally discovered in 1933.

The museum in Biskupin is open all year round. The settlement of the people of the Lusatian culture, which was found on the peninsula on Lake Biskupin, dates back about 2500 years.

6. Ethnographic museum of Tokarnia The open-air Skansen Tokarnia museum illustrates a variety of rural, village and aristocratic architecture from the Kielce region. From farmstead, house and manor to windmill, school and pharmacy, thirty or so 18 and 19C edifices were dismantled from their original site and reassembled in this 80ha park. Men can be seen working in the fields, animals graze peacefully, the gardens are tended and the houses are spic and span, to such an extent that the village seems inhabited.

7. Slavs and Viking centre Vineta / Wolin Active sightseeing and live history lessons Come to the village, enter the gate, observe how people lived 1000 years ago and learn ancient crafts. The village of Slavs and Vikings is a beautiful reconstruction of early-Middle Age Wolin, and it consists of a dozen or so huts. Each of these, like the gate with its ramparts and palisades, was built using authentic age-old ways, by way of the tools and materials used in those times. Moreover, the interior of each of the huts is an exact replication of the furnishings of that era.

8. Zalipie The village Zalipie where the tradition of painting cottages in this way goes back to the beginnings of the 19th century. Today in the village there are around twenty such painted houses; many others can be found in the surrounding region. The tradition is upheld each year in the first week after the Feast of Corpus Christi, when a competition is held for the most beautifully decorated cottage. Throughout the whole year the painting of cottages, done mainly by the women of Zalipie, can be admired at the farm of Felicja Curylowa, which is affiliated to the Tarnowski Museum Zalipie, Dom Malarek (House of Women Painters) 9. Kujawsko-Dobrzyński Ethnographic Park in Kłóbka The open-air museum in Kłóbka is one of the youngest open-air museums in Poland. It’s located about 25 km from Włocławek in southeast direction, in Kłóbka village in Lubień Kujawski located 3 km from the Gdańsk - Toruń – Łódź road. It is situated by the Lubieńka River, in the proximity of a park with a manor estate which used to belong to Orpiszewski family.

8. Slavs and Viking centre Vineta / Wolin

5. Museum of the Mazovian Countryside in Sierpc

6. Archaeological Museum in Biskupin

15. Ethnographic Museum in Zielona Góra – Ochla

10. Kujawsko-Dobrzyński Ethnographic Park in Kłóbka

14. Regional Museum and Ethnographic Park in Sieradz

3. Radom Village Museum

9. The Zalipie V̀illage

11. Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna created by lovePoland *Accurate: August 2020. We did try to make it as accurate as possible but always check for a possible changes.

10. Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna The permanent exhibitions of the Museum - Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna are comprised of 60+ facilities altogether and so-called small architecture facilities which along with the surrounding nature constitute two-part spatial arrangement. The museum area is about 12 ha. The first, older part situated around the mansion's buildings has a park nature, while layout of the newer part refers to a common type of village in Orava, called a scattered chain.

11. The Open Air Village Museum in Lublin It is one of the biggest open air museums in Poland. Owing to its rich architecture, exhibits and also the concern of intangible heritage of the region, it shows the cultural diversity of the province. It gathers items related to the former life in the village, in the manor and in the small town. It also preserves the knowledge about customs, rituals, traditions and everyday work of people living in the past. The exhibition is divided into sectors reflecting the landscape and ethnographic diversification of Lublin region: Lublin Upland, Roztocze, Vistula Region, Podlasie and Bug Region, manorial and provincial town sectors.

12. Pogórzańska Village Open-Air Museum in Szymbark Less known but still worth a visit. Created in 1987; wooden buildings illustrate the folk architecture of the Pogórze-Gorlice area (38-311 Szymbark)

12. The Open Air Village Museum in Lublin

2. Folk Museum in Kolbuszowa

13. Pogórzańska Village Open-Air Museum in Szymbark 7. Ethnographic Museum of Tokarnia

1. The Rural Architecture Museum of Sanok

13. Regional Museum and Ethnographic Park in Sieradz The Museum is located in the 17th-century tenement house at the Market Square. Rich archaeological and ethnographic collections, work of arts, handicraft products and historical documents are gathered here. The museum shows the past of Sieradz region from the prehistory to present times but also folk art, folklore and local customs. Sieradz Ethnographic Park with original peasant cottages built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries is located on the river Żeglina, near the castle hill.

14. Ethnographic Museum in Zielona Góra-Ochla The Museum occupies the area of 13 hectares, and it is located in a very charming place, at the foot of the glacial hills, near the springs hidden in the forests. It has almost 80 old objects and more than ten thousand exhibits. It’s also the best place to get to know with Polish culture and its folk traditions.Ethnography is the science that describes the folk culture, but also the groups and social behaviors from the past till now. The Museum is the state institution set up to collect, research and take care of monuments, in our case, related to the culture of Poland and Lubuskie province. * Please note that there are about 60 Open Air Museums in Poland, located practically in every province.

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P O C K E T O F

H I S T O R Y P O L A N D

BY DARIUSZ SIRKO

ABOUT ME

Dariusz Sirko (born 1992) is a graduate of international relations at Collegium Civitas in Warsaw and the Graduate School for Social Research certified by Lancaster University at the Polish Academy of Sciences. contact: Dariusz.Sirko@gmail.com

POCKET HISTORY OF POLAND began as a course on Polish history and culture that Dariusz Sirko, then 25, gave in Madeira Island, Portugal, while participating in the European Voluntary Service in 2017. The avid interest that the presentation kindled in the course’s international audience inspired Sirko to expand and deepen it into this book.

The informal, youthful, conversational tone of the presentation has carried over into the book. It is one of the qualities that distinguishes it from other readily available histories of Poland, in printed form or online, from Wikipedia to bulkier library tomes.

The book’s light and friendly banter could be deceiving at first. But as one goes through the its 150 plus pages, the book unrolls as a serious work at heart, brimming over with oversize personalities, events, conflicts, images, analyses, and themes. Even as the author closely worked with history experts based in Warsaw and London, he has managed to carry over a voice of youthful serendipity in the book. As the work unfolds, the reader could find Sirko connecting the subject at hand to anecdotes about his friends or references to pop culture, providing a fresh and contemporary accent to events and passions of a long-distant past.

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A ribald Bette Middler joke pops up in a section on the centuries-old complicated and often devastating relationship between Poland and Germany; Facebook is invoked in the story of the 18th century King Stanislas and the revolutionary hero Tadeusz Kosciuszko; there is an anecdote about the author’s friends who, following tradition and hoping for luck in love, rub the tail of the mermaid statue in Warsaw celebrating the founding myth of the city that tells of the marriage between the fisherman Warsz and the mermaid Sawa. Meant not only for history enthusiasts but also for tourists, POCKET HISTORY OF POLAND would enhance and enrich any visit to this part of the globe – literary, virtual or in-person.

Would you like to know why the Polish coat of arms features a white bird and a sunset-red background? Or why Poland has often been referred to as the beating heart of Europe? Or how the country has fared postCommunism or post-EU accession? The continuing relevance of these and many other themes and stories animate a multi-dimensional book filled with outsize-personalities, some of them globally redefining, like Copernicus, Chopin, Walesa, John Paul II, and Marie Curie. Even those already steeped in Polish history could find new perspectives in the book, in the way it revivifies or embellishes narratives of, say, the Piast or Jagiellonian medieval dynasties (with their fair share of heroes, libertines, and saints) with the occasional wry comment that could only come from someone who has grown in the internet age. Those who have little acquaintance with Polish history and culture will experience a stimulating and enriching dive not only into the book’s core focus but the history of Central/Eastern Europe as well.

From the time in the late 1400s that the country became the largest in Europe to 1795 when it completely vanished from the map to the subsequent world wars, Poland’s territory with its shifting borders has always been a major prize in the various liaisons, intrigues, concords and discords in this corner of Europe that has had an outsize impact on the world’s history. The book thus unavoidably deals with thematic insights on Germany, Austria, Russia, and other powers that have at some point ruled, partitioned, or absorbed the Poles throughout their dramatic history. Yet throughout their tribulations, the Polish people kept faith in their common heritage of language, culture and stories. This is one of the running threads that keep POCKET HISTORY OF POLAND from turning into a confusing and unwieldy mélange and makes it a lucid narrative of the region. POCKET HISTORY OF POLAND reaches deep into the past to illuminate the personal and the present, the white bird from the ruins.

Get your copy: The book is available in most bookstores in Poland and online platforms, also in digital form.

II edition

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