the science of hair color
by lauren madras | photo by charles barnes
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Lighter, darker, less gray, more depth or more fun—there’s something about having a new hair color that puts zing in your step.
>easy on
>take ten
>custom shades
>a new chapter
John Frieda Precision Foam Colour
Garnier HerbaShine Color Creme
At-home color carries a slightly higher risk because every step is up to you. Drips and uneven color application cause unsightly patchiness that’s hard to correct— but the foaming color formula is easy to create at home. Just add the contents of bottle No. 2 to No. 1 and squeeze! The at-home color depends on hydrogen peroxide to power its developer, the part of the process that lightens hair, and the colorant is ammonia-based, so it’s important to be in a well-ventilated area while you apply and to rinse thoroughly before applying the conditioner. Be sure to leave it on a minimum of two full minutes.
When hair goes through a color process, the cuticle is damaged, leading to dull, limp hair. HerbaShine claims to actually improve hair strength and health with bamboo extract. The color is largely derived from gentle chemicals, contains no ammonia and can be applied in just 10 minutes. The gentler approach means you sacrifice longevity, though. Expect color to fade in the fourth week. Protect your hairline from drips by applying petroleum jelly to block seepage while color sits. There’s only enough conditioner for a single application, so make it worth your while by rinsing thoroughly before applying and allowing it to set for several minutes.
Aveda PurePro Full Spectrum Protective Permanent Crème Hair Color
L’Oréal Professionnel INOA Ammonia-Free Permanent Hair color
With 96 percent of the color formula derived from natural ingredients, this is one of the gentlest out there for your skin and the environment. Soy protein amplifies protection from damage during processing, and Aveda’s patented green tea extract allows hair colorists to create a broader spectrum of color possibilities. They have a wider variety of shades available thanks to the introduction of new color lines like Pastel Tones, Red Series and Natural Series. The coloring process is even less damaging with the addition of conditioning botanical oils for shine.
$12 at drugstores
$7 at drug stores
The newest line from the brand that invented salon hair color as we know it today, INOA stands for Innovation No Ammonia and claims a healthier approach to permanent hair color. Most ammonia-free colors are semi-permanent, so color fades quickly and has to be redone frequently. Monoethanolamine is the compound that is swapped in place of the harsher formula. The result? A less noxious aroma while you’re in the chair, plus less burning or tingling at the scalp. And there’s a more predictable result, since stylists are able to easily create colors with a one-to-one mixing ratio between the coloring cream and the rich developer.
TOWN&style
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november 28, 2012
Available at salons only Product provided by Ethos Aveda Lifestyle Salon
Available at salons only products provided by Dominic Michael Salon and Preston Salon