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f you still haven’t seen the documovie A Seat at the Table, then now might be a good time. Throughout the movie the many positive messages about New Zealand wine and its stories of different grape varieties, sustainability, screw-top closures, ‘terroir’ and fine winemaking are clear – which is many winemakers and wine companies are passionate about what they do and are working hard to look after the land and people within the sector and continue to make fine wine. In the movie, there is an interview with respected wine writer Jancis Robinson who suggests very strongly that New Zealand Chardonnay is world class and the wine sector here could focus much more attention to the variety. In the same movie, there is an interview with a well-known London-based wine retailer who regularly conducts blind wine event with respected wine critics. He too suggests the same for New Zealand Chardonnay, referencing many tastings of the variety and, without fail, most attending suggest the best wines in the line-up are white Burgundy when, in fact, they are nearly all from New Zealand.
New Zealand’s climate and myriad soil types are ideally suited to growing Chardonnay and all regions grow the variety well. Not only do the different soils types influence aroma and flavour, so too does the use of dry-farming, organic practices, vineage, canopy management and harvest decisions. All of these factors help winemakers determine complexity and texture as well as core fruit flavours. Yellow stone fruits, apple and quince, citrus and pith, and minerality to flowers are all considered desirable flavours in Chardonnay. There is a trend towards lesser use of oak overall and when it is used – fewer new oak barrels are in the mix. Barrel sizes still favour the traditional 225 and 228 litre sizes for Chardonnay, but there is a growing trend towards the use of 500 litre puncheons. Some producers are exploring the use concrete or wooden eggs for ferments with low or no oak influence at all. Traditions and trends aside, Chardonnay fruit must be managed by a skilled winemaker who understands the variety’s idiosyncrasies, strengths and weaknesses and vintage to produce the individual styles we have come to enjoy.
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Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas. 16 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021