The Shout NZ March 2021

NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST LIQUOR AUDIENCE

MARCH 2021 | www.theshout.co.nz

Flavour as nature intended

FRESH. “I choose to live and work in Marlborough because I believe the grapes here are the best in the world. I use all my skills and experience to style wines with elegance and balance that capture the intensity and brightness of our fruit. The diverse terroir of Marlborough’s sub-regions broadens my palette as a winemaker to craft complex and individual wines.”

astrolabewines.co.nz

contents

March 2021

28 The Shout NZ Editor, Charlotte Cowan

12 16

KEEPING SPIRITS UP

The spirits industry in New Zealand is on fire at the moment, with more distilleries and producers than ever before. Sure, our friend COVID-19 is affecting some stock levels for the on- and off-premise, but the options for consumers in terms of style, innovation and premiumisation are endless.

This month, we have listened to our readers and we have a huge spirits offering for you.

On pgs 12-15 I take a look at the RTD category, which has changed immeasurably over the last few years. Gone are the days of the brightly-coloured sugar-filled offerings - now all age groups are enjoying natural, low-sugar RTDs and are proud to do so.

On pgs 24-26, The Whisky Girl Tash McGill takes us through the new New Zealand Whisky Guidelines and definitions and shares an update on the global and local whisky world, and on pgs 28-30, she takes a look at the expansion of vodka. It might not be as big a category as gin, but it’s creeping up there.

Plus, Cameron Douglas MS tastes Chardonnay and Pinot Gris on pgs 16-23, our columnists share advice on liquor retail and franchises, and we put the spotlight on new Wellington lounge bar, Love Not Lost.

Don’t forget to check out our website for up-to-date liquor news and events, and feel free to email me with any suggestions of what you’d like to see in The Shout NZ. Cheers!

27

4 INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHTS 8 ON SHOW

27 SPOTLIGHT ON A LOCAL

12 GET READY TO DRINK

Tash McGill shares how the vodka category holds its own in New Zealand

This month’s must-try new classics and releases Special report on the evolution of RTDs

16 CHARDONNAY AND PINOT GRIS Tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS

Managing Director Simon Grover Group Publisher Paul Wootton

31 DARK AND WARMING

Winter beer and cider with beer writer Denise Garland

FROM A CEO

An update on the NZ Whisky Guidelines and global whisky sales

PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group (NZ) Ltd PO Box 109 342, Newmarket, Auckland 1149

28 CHALLENGING THE SPIRIT OF VODKA

34 OWNING A LIQUOR FRANCHISE: ADVICE

24 WHISKY REGULATIONS AND REVELATIONS

Wellington lounge bar, Love Not Lost

Liquorland CEO Brendon Lawry’s tips for future franchise leaders

Associate Publisher Craig Hawtin-Butcher craig@intermedia.com.au

Publishing Assistant Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz

Editor Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz ph 021 774 080

Art Director Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au

Sales Manager Brigitte Kolver bkolver@intermedianz.co.nz ph 027 294 5113

Production Manager Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au Subscription Enquiries subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

For more amazing liquor news (and even a few giveaways), make sure you follow us on Instagram and Facebook @theshoutnz and sign up to our weekly eNewsletter at www.theshout.co.nz.

FOLLOW US

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 3

news

Lion goes carbon zero Lion New Zealand has announced it has become New Zealand’s first large-scale beverage company to be Toitū carbonzero certified.

Through its partnership with Toitū, Lion has undertaken an intensive audit, designed to accurately measure its operational greenhouse gas emissions and put in place strategies to manage and reduce Lion’s carbon footprint each year.

Lion established a ‘whole family’ carbon reduction approach across its New Zealand manufacturing, including The Pride and Little Creatures Brewery in Auckland, Panhead Brewery and Havana Coffee Works in Wellington, Wither Hill’s Vineyard and Winery in Blenheim, Speight’s and Emerson’s Breweries based in Dunedin, along with its nationwide chain of Liquor King stores.

Rory Glass, Managing Director of Lion, says Lion’s carbonzero certification marks the business’ continued effort to reduce its footprint and develop a clear pathway towards decarbonisation.

“Our certification will require the business to reduce emissions year on year, measured against set targets, one of which is our commitment to running all of our Lion sites across the country on renewable electricity by 2025,” he says.

Australian craft brewer searches for first New Zealand bar location

Australian craft brewery BrewDog has announced plans to expand into New Zealand with the search underway for its first craft beer bar site.

Following the launch of its first Australian brewery in Brisbane in late 2019, the brewer has plans to confirm a new flagship BrewDog bar in New Zealand by the end of 2021.

The first carbon-negative beer business in the world, BrewDog is owned by thousands of craft beer lovers across the world who have all invested in the brewery’s pioneering ‘Equity for Punks’ crowdfunding programme.

The brewer plans to open several new BrewDog bars across New Zealand, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth in the next two years.

As part of its expansion Down Under, BrewDog has extended its pioneering crowdfunding initiative, Equity for Punks, to New Zealand.

The share offering will now give Kiwi beer lovers the opportunity to shape the future of the Australian-owned company in New Zealand.

4 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

Every dollar raised will be used to sustainably fuel BrewDog’s growth in Australia and New Zealand and fund investment in groundbreaking, highimpact green projects to help build a more sustainable future.

The brewer has also confirmed that if more than 500 Equity Punks join from the same New Zealand city, they will aim to open a BrewDog bar there within the next two years.

Ed Bott, BrewDog’s ANZ CEO, said the response to the current raise in Australia had been so positive that they decided to extend the deadline and include New Zealand.

BrewDog has exceeded the initial $300,000AUD target and is currently sitting at over $500,000AUD with more than 750 investors to date. The raise is currently scheduled to close on 31 March 2021.

“We are extremely grateful for the outstanding support we have received so far in Australia which has convinced us that the time is right to start the search in New Zealand,” Bott said.

“We can’t wait to bring our relentless obsession with incredible craft beer over to our Kiwi friends and embrace the local beer scene there as we have in Australia.

“We look forward to building a fast-paced sustainable business that will act as a force for good in New Zealand and contribute to BrewDog becoming one of the most sustainable businesses in the world.”

Investments can be made at www.brewdog.com/efpoz until 31 March 2021.

MPI funds wellbeing workshops for New Zealand wine industry The Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI) has allocated $40,000 for a series of wellbeing workshops for the wine industry.

A result of a challenging 12 months for the industry, with weather events, and labour supply issues and market uncertainty caused by COVID-19, the workshops are available to everyone working across the industry in New Zealand’s winemaking regions.

“The severity of these impacts has varied across regions,” says MPI’s director of Rural Communities and Farming Support, Nick Story.

“The workshops will give people the tools to help them tackle the year ahead with a positive frame of mind.”

The workshops will take place post-harvest in April and May in the North Island (the South Island workshops took place in February and early-March).

“The workshops are designed to help boost morale and reignite enthusiasm following last year’s challenges,” says New Zealand Winegrowers’ Leadership and Communities Manager, Nicky Grandorge. “They will include discussions on the importance of mental wellbeing, as well as helping people to reset for 2021.”

Funding for the initiative was provided in Budget 2020. MPI was allocated $1.1 million over three years to deliver extra wellbeing and support services to complement those provided by Rural Support Trusts. For more information, visit www.nzwine.com/en/initiatives/goyou-workshops/.

news

Villa Maria launches first organic wine range After 21 years of growing grapes organically, Villa Maria has announced the launch of ‘EarthGarden’ – its first ever organic wine range. EarthGarden was created to meet the rising global demand for sustainable produce and is part of the winery’s commitment to converting 100% of its company vineyards to be organically managed by 2030.

“The global organic wine market was forecasted last year by IWSR to grow 43% by 2024, and New Zealand’s $2Bn wine industry is well positioned to capitalise on this trend,” says Matt Deller MW, Villa Maria’s Chief Global Sales & Marketing Officer. “Villa Maria, as one of New Zealand’s first and largest organic wine producers aims to help lead the charge with EarthGarden, which is already attracting significant interest from several of the world’s largest retailers.”

Available in-store and online now, the EarthGarden range is 100% organically grown and BioGro certified and includes Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2020, Marlborough Pinot Noir 2019 and Hawke’s Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019.

Villa Maria Viticulturalist Hannah Ternent says wines made from organically grown grapes have more intense and evocative flavours.

“When you taste the EarthGarden wines, you taste the care put into the soil, the conscious tending of the vines, the careful handling of the fruit produced and the respect for our relationship with the land,” she says.

For more information on Villa Maria’s EarthGarden range, visit www.villamaria.co.nz/ ranges/earthgarden/

NSFW launches two new wine qualifications The New Zealand School of Food & Wine has announced the launch of two new wine qualifications.

The NZ Certificate in Professional Wine Knowledge Level 5 and the NZ Diploma of Wine Management Level 6 will be available as both full-time or part-time programmes, with some remote learning options for people living outside of Auckland.

Both qualifications embed the WSET Level 2 and 3 Award in Wine and the WSET Level 2 Award in Spirits.

New Zealand residents will be eligible for student loans and allowances and free fees if they meet the criteria.

“The focus is on building knowledge of New Zealand and international wine regions through tasting and research and at the same time consider how successful regions manage their tourism and food and wine experiences,” says Celia Hay, Director of the New Zealand School of Food and Wine. “We see this knowledge as being important and extremely helpful to build our own New Zealand Wine destinations and enhance their visitor experience.”

The qualifications will also look at the business side of running wineries and restaurants and graduates will develop confidence to use digital marketing applications, understand promotional and sales platforms and techniques.

WHAT’S ON March 13 WAIRARAPA WINES HARVEST FESTIVAL ‘The Cliffs’, Wairarapa www.wairarapaharvestfestival.co.nz March 13 THE GREAT KIWI BEER FESTIVAL Claudelands Events Centre, Hamilton www.greatkiwibeerfestival.co.nz March 20 MARCHFEST Nelson www.marchfest.com March 21 RIPE – THE WANAKA WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Corbridge Estate, Wanaka www.ripewanaka.nz March 27 AUCKLAND CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL Spark Arena, Auckland www.aucklandbeerfestival.co.nz/

March 27 HOP ’N’ VINE ITL Stadium, Intercargill www.hopnvine.co.nz March 27-28 GINDULGENCE Abbeville Estate, Auckland www.gindulgence.co.nz April 3 GISBORNE BEER FESTIVAL Gisborne www.gisbornebeerfestival.nz/ April 4 CLYDE FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Clyde, Central Otago www.promotedunstan.org.nz

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 5

industry insights

Beer or seltzer?

Innovation for consumer choice For an alcoholic product to be sold in a supermarket it can only be beer, wine or cider. So why then have we come to see the newest, fastest-growing beverage trend – seltzers – on the shelves of your local supermarket? In many international markets, seltzers are generally just alcoholic sodas flavoured with natural fruit juices, including some brands in New Zealand. The word seltzers comes from the German town Selters, famous for its natural mineral springs. So, for these products to be sold in supermarkets in New Zealand, they need to be made from a beer or cider base. Which can be a difficult process to get that crisp flavour seltzers are known for.

The Australasian Food Code describes beer as: The product, characterised by the presence of hops or preparations of hops prepared by the yeast fermentation of an aqueous extract of malted or unmalted cereals, or both; or such a product with any of the following added during production: cereal products or other sources of carbohydrate; sugar; salt; herbs and spices. That’s a pretty narrow scope

Dylan Firth Executive Director, Brewers Association of New Zealand

considering the range of beers available. By sticking to this recipe and using light grain and hop flavours, there has been a steady increase in the number of beer-based seltzers in market. I expect to see more as brewers see the growing demand from consumers.

What this and the formulation of beer-based seltzers shows us is that innovation is key to providing new options to consumers where they want to purchase their beverages.

While I don’t see seltzers as overtaking beer in the market, I do see the beer category having to continue to innovate and differentiate itself to maintain relevance in an increasingly crowded marketplace.

Sponsorship promoting brands, not heavy drinking The recent announcement of the continued commitment of Speights sponsoring the Highlanders Super Rugby team drew outrage by Alcohol Healthwatch, a government-funded anti-alcohol lobby group. Lion’s Speights brand has been supporting the team for 25 years.

Alcohol Healthwatch asserted that alcohol sponsorship creates a harmful connection between alcohol and rugby and targets young people. Despite advertising spending by the industry increasing over the past few years, we’ve actually seen beer consumption, and alcohol consumption in general, decreasing steadily. Kiwis, particularly young adults, are drinking less and less harmfully, and they’re choosing more no- and low-alcohol drinks to suit their personal circumstances, lifestyle or social situation.

The alcohol industry is highly regulated. Companies must ensure their sponsorship and advertising activities comply with the requirements of the Advertising Standards Authority.

This includes restrictions on the marketing of alcohol that may be viewed by young people.

Sponsorship and advertising are by no means about encouraging people to drink more, nor promoting heavy drinking. Alcohol brands and hospitality venues have been supporting grassroots and professional sports for decades – and they play by the rules. As such, they are a core part of our communities – connecting people, and encouraging

6 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

Bridget MacDonald Executive Director, New Zealand Alcohol Beverages Council

participation, communication and camaraderie.

Most New Zealanders are actually quite comfortable with alcohol advertising and sponsorship. Recent industry research shows that 62% of Kiwis think the level of industry sponsorship of sport is about right or could be more (25% say it’s too much). Also, 66% of Kiwis say current alcohol advertising levels are acceptable or could be more (28% say it’s too high).

Four out of five Kiwis are quite comfortable taking their children to a friend’s house or out to a restaurant or café where alcohol is being consumed, and they are equally comfortable having a drink around their kids at home. Around half of Kiwis have taken kids to a sports match, concert or bar where alcohol was served.

It’s about keeping safe and social and promoting sociability in a convivial way – it’s okay to have a beer with mates after work or a game, whether it’s zero alcohol, mid-strength or regular beer. Sponsorship is about creating brand awareness and brand preferences. Sponsors just hope people support their brand because they’re supporting the local team.

industry insights

Stop and smell the Rosé Rosé is no longer just a wine style to be enjoyed while the sun is shining and the temperatures are soaring. The incredible surge in the popularity of Rosé shows this is a wine style that is now enjoyed by many more consumers, for every occasion, all year round.

On Friday the 5th of February, just in time to kick off the Waitangi holiday weekend in style, we celebrated NZ Rosé Day. It was the sixth year this annual celebration has run, and it is designed to support local producers and raise awareness of premium New Zealand Rosé.

New Zealand Winegrowers 2020 Annual Report shows Rosé is now the fourth largest New Zealand wine export, exporting 5.6 million litres globally last year. That is more than double the 2.4 million litres in 2017, and 10 times that of 2010, when New Zealand exported just 0.56 million litres of Rosé.

And while we are seeing proof of the increase in popularity of Rosé in our exports, this doesn’t tell the whole story. There is an incredible rush on New Zealand Rosé in the domestic market as well, and with a term coined ‘brosé’, it shows us it’s not just a drop for a ladies long lunch.

The style of Rosé is changing too. New Zealand makes a diverse array of Rosé styles, from fresh and fruity to savoury and textural. They come in a variety of pink shades, but

Amber Silvester, Communications Manager, New Zealand Winegrowers

typically they are a lighter bodied, drier, paler and more refined version of what consumers may previously remember.

Pinot Noir grapes are the mainstay of New Zealand’s Rosé production, especially in cooler, southern wine regions like Marlborough and Central Otago. Other common varieties used are Merlot and Syrah from warmer Northern regions such as Hawke’s Bay. While a challenging harvest, 2020 was exceptional in terms of quality, and New Zealand Rosé is generally made to be enjoyed within a year from vintage. There are many different regions, styles and producers that are making sophisticated and refreshing New Zealand Rosé – the hardest part is deciding where to start!

High spirits over summer Three years ago, the first New Zealand gin festival was born out of a sense of frustration. There were already plenty of New Zealand food, craft beer and wine festivals out there, but no festivals that allowed spirits sales. We were lagging behind the rest of the world, where spirits events with a garden-party type atmosphere, good music and company were well established. New Zealanders were ready for a cultured, grown-up occasion to enjoy the great NZ craft gins now on the market.

Our original festival was Gindulgence – launched in 2018 in Christchurch by Spirits Workshop in partnership with the Ilam Homestead. Seven hundred tickets were sold for a one-day festival and there were 10 New Zealand gin stands in the first year. It was a huge success, and the next year Gindulgence expanded to Wellington, added Sunday sessions to both festivals with 1000 tickets/day for each festival and added another three gin stands at each festival.

In 2020, Auckland joined the schedule. After a small break due to COVID-19, Gindulgence came back for 2021 with three two-day festivals in the main centres planned for Jan/ Feb/March, each with 1000 tickets/day and 15 distilleries on show. All events will likely be sold out.

Tauranga’s Bay of Plenty two-day Gincredible Gin Festival was also back for its third year in February. This festival again celebrates the creations of New Zealand’s distillers, with local food vendors and musicians, cocktails and gin masterclasses. On a smaller scale Whanganui on the Rocks

Sue James Chairperson, Distilled Spirits Aotearoa

launched its inaugural New Zealand two-day gin festival on Labour Day weekend last year.

This year, New Zealand celebrated its very first official Gin Day on 23rd January. Five distilleries joined National Distillery at its site in Napier, and more distilleries are expected to join in at the NZ Gin Day Festival next year at Juno Distillery in New Plymouth.

Interest, attendance and overall spend has increased at every New Zealand gin festival so far. The public is fascinated by the explosion of spirits culture and is keen to try new gins. It is also great to know that Gindulgence has had more than 6500 people through its festivals over the last three years, with zero alcohol incidents. The responsible adult drinking population has shown that there is a growing enjoyment and acceptance of craft spirits at events, and spirits are seen as a responsible drinking option alongside beer and wine.

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 7

product showcase ROUND THEORY WINES Round Theory wines have been consciously crafted with a simple goal in mind – to make great wines that have a positive impact on the planet. All Round Theory wines are vegan-friendly and made from grapes that are sustainably grown and sourced. The unique design is better for the environment due to its lightweight packaging, which reduces their carbon footprint. What carbon they do use is offset at double the amount via a partnership with CarbonClick and then used to support four conservation and preservation projects worldwide. The Round Theory range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, White Field Blend and Pinot Gris - all from Marlborough, and a Hawke’s Bay Rosé to help you make a sustainable choice with your wine.

RRP $23.00 (750ml) Contact: info@roundtheorywines.com www.roundtheorywines.com

w o h s on

TINK 3 WAY SELTZER Made from fruit wine, sparkling water and natural flavours, Tink Seltzer is low sugar, low carb and low cal. It’s a fruit wine seltzer that offers a point of difference in the category. Recently released, Tink 3 Way is a mixed six-pack featuring 2 x 330ml each of Lemon & Lime, Berry Rose and Tropical flavours. We’ll Tink to that!

RRP $21.99 (6x330ml, 4% ABV) Contact: Giesen Group on (03) 344 6270 or enquiries@giesengroup.co.nz www.giesen.co.nz

ry ’s must-t h t n o m is

Th

BARKER AND QUIN In a bid to create a superior tonic for the discerning drinker, Barker and Quin goes to great lengths to source only the highest quality, natural products from around Africa. The citrus flavours and spices are created from distilled essences, and the quinine is harvested from the bark of Chinchona trees in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Combining these ingredients with spring water from the Breede River in the Slanghoek Valley, Barker and Quinn has created a delectable tonic, free of artificial sweeteners, colourants and flavourants. Delicious enough to be enjoyed on its own, or add it to a craft gin to create a unique gourmet drinking experience.

RRP $59.50 (case of 24) Contact: Tanya Taljaard on (021) 058 7894 or sales@citrusgin.co.nz www.barkerandquin.co.za 8 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

leases.

new re sics and

clas

JUNO EXTRA FINE GIN From the foot of Mt Taranaki comes New Zealand’s own goddess of gin. Juno’s signature gin, Extra Fine, has won multiple national and international awards. Most recently, Juno Extra Fine was singled out by the NZ Gin Guide in 2020 as the Taster’s Pick for the Top Classic Gin. This gin is appealingly aromatic with well-balanced initial tastes of refreshing juniper, coupled with lingering citrus and peppery notes. Juno sources many of its botanicals locally and has partnered with Massey University to pioneer a world-first juniper plantation in New Zealand.

Top mixing tips: Fever-Tree Mediterranean with a slice of fresh lime; or for a zingy autumn version, Fever-Tree Ginger Beer with a couple of wedges of lime.

RRP $93.00 (700ml, 40% ABV) Contact: (0800) THIRSTY or info@thirstycamel.co.nz www.thirstycamel.co.nz

SPRIG & FERN LITTLE TRIP NZ PALE ALE This is a proud NZ Pale Ale, featuring NZH102 - a special advanced trial hop made available to Sprig & Fern by NZ Hops. Drawing on the notes of berry, inspired by picking your own in the sun, golden sands and lush national parks. With a backyard like ours, who needs travel anyway?

RRP $12.29 (6% ABV) Contact: Louis Niven on (021) 644 937 www.sprigandfern.co.nz

advertorial

AN OPPORTUNITY TO INVEST IN THE BOOMING

Mark Halton started with a blank sheet of paper in conceiving and creating Denzien Urban Distillery, a Wellington artisan distillery he set up to reflect his desire for authenticity, craftsmanship and imagination.

A true artisan gin distillery, Denzien is right in the heart of Te Aro in New Zealand’s capital city. The Denzien proposition is deliberately and unashamedly urban.

Mark’s journey began in March 2016 while watching a short film about craft distilleries specialising in gin. After attending Junipalooza Melbourne in October that year, and talking with distillers and distillery owners, he began researching market opportunities, investigating the costs of production, and analysing local and global gins.

After completing a hands-on certificate course at the Koval distillery in Chicago May 2017, he was able to complete a peer reviewed business plan, which created purposeful direction that still guides the business today. The Chicago course was certified by German manufacturer Kothe, which he had selected very deliberately to manufacture the state-of-the-art copper still.

His first gin, Te Aro Dry, was developed in his apartment. Micro batch distillations developed over nine months achieved a botanical balance that created an approachable and versatile gin – perfect for the first release. An enormous amount of work took place after returning from Chicago.

Opening the door to the public November 2018, Denzien Urban Distillery arrived on the emerging New Zealand gin scene with a living and breathing public R&D lab, a retail shopfront distillery that was the first destination urban distillery in

“WE MAKE AWARD-WINNING, WORLD CLASS NEW ZEALAND TERROIR GIN”

New Zealand. Four months later, Denzien won all the awards and trophies available at the inaugural NZ Spirits Awards 2019, and continues to collect commendations for their work, including San Francisco.

“We make award-winning, world class New Zealand terroir gin,” says Mark.

“We are fanatical in our pursuit of nocompromise craft gin, distilling Wellington rain water, organic native botanicals and sustainable whey ethanol in our gorgeous Kothe copper still. We have promiscuous gin-curious drinkers firmly in our sights. We know they want to make a personal connection with the maker and product provenance.”

After a five-year journey bringing his vision to life, Mark finds himself with undiminished enthusiasm for the brand and products he has created, great pride and satisfaction in what he has achieved

thus far, and a belief in the future of the business which is stronger than ever.

However, he is very conscious that rapid progress will require other skills, capacities and resources on top of what he is able to bring.

Consequently, the Denzien Urban Distillery business is being brought to market as a unique opportunity by Gerard Dunne of ABC Business Sales.

Gerard speaks with passion about this opportunity, understanding what Mark has done in creating Denzien and having assisted Mark with the sale of a previous business which led the field in a completely different business space, prior to his setting up Denzien.

“Mark is one of a kind; he brings a great capacity for highly efficient business operation together with a natural sense of brand and creative which reflects his original training and experience in the creative marketing world and head of design for a large London marketing agency,” says Gerard. “Denzien has grown out of his great passion for food and drink, and gin in particular.”

Denzien has got a lot of runs on the board, with the following quoted by Gerard as examples: • Stunning visual brand identity, brand recognition and a solid early stage customer base.

• Fully functioning production distillery in the heart of Wellington, with a state-of-the-art 700 litre still from KotheDestillationstechnik (Eislingen Germany) - a proven local and international crowd-puller and a unique proposition within the gin industry in New Zealand.

• Three permanent labels, and unique ‘Distillers Proof’ label for limited release market unique recipes.

• Awards: Te Aro Dry - Gold Medal and Double Trophy for best New Zealand in category and best overall in category – Gin (2019 New Zealand Spirits Awards); Silver medal (2020 New Zealand Spirits Awards). Bronze San Fran 2020. Our Coast - Silver medal (2020 New Zealand Spirits Awards) Bronze San Fran 2020. Smoke and Embers - Bronze Medal (2020 New Zealand Spirits Awards).

• Highly strategic relationships with wellknown industry players.

• Fully developed and documented business systems and processes.

If you think Denzien might be the opportunity you have been looking for, either as an outright acquisition or partial buy in, Gerard Dunne can be contacted in confidence on (027) 220 8277. ■ THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 9

LIQUOR SHOPPERS WILL JUST DO WHAT THEY ALWAYS DO… New Zealand liquor shoppers aren’t as habitual as you might think, writes Andrew Arnold, NZ Country Manager, Shopper Intelligence.

h

abitual purchasing rules the roost – “That’s my favourite”, “That’s what I always get”, “That new thing looks interesting, but I’ll have my usual, thanks”. Surely that’s how shoppers shop?

It doesn’t matter what channel you’re talking about. Whether it’s grocery, convenience, or traditional liquor. I know what I like, so I’ll buy that. I also know what others in my household like who I buy for. Past purchasing history will determine what people buy in the future. You get the idea.

The thing is though, that is an outdated - and totally wrong - view of shopper behaviour. What people habitually buy is a good indicator in some categories across channels, but by no means does it hold true for everything. One size most certainly does not fit all.

10 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

What shoppers want and need is the best indicator of future behaviour. And unsurprisingly, after 12 years of research into why shoppers make purchase decisions, we’ve come to a resounding conclusion: Every category, banner, and channel must be approached differently, as shopper motivations rapidly evolve.

Liquor shoppers – particularly after lockdown – don’t just buy what’s familiar.

They want to try something new. They want theatre. They want excitement.

HOW HABITUAL ARE SHOPPERS? A common metric that we look at is whether shoppers plan to make their purchase before they even get to the store. We have been collecting shopper data in New Zealand in the liquor channel for four years, so we can see some clear trends starting to appear.

The proportion of shoppers in the

Andrew Arnold, NZ Country Manager, Shopper Intelligence With 20 years’ worth of experience in NZ FMCG, Andrew has worked in a wide variety of sales and insights roles with the likes of Red Bull, Gordon & Gotch and Energizer.

During his career he has led sales and insights teams to develop insight-led strategies that drive both retailer and category growth.

off-premise Traditional Liquor channel who plan their purchase stands at 79% - which is significant. However, this has dropped from 83% four years ago. There are several different factors that go into planning – e.g. did they see a mailer, did they see a TV ad, were they requested to buy on someone else’s behalf – and included in this is “Was this an habitual purchase”. This number sits at 45%, and has effectively not moved over four years.

TAKEOUT #1: PAST PURCHASING HISTORY IS NO BETTER THAN A COIN FLIP AT PREDICTING FUTURE PURCHASING BEHAVIOUR. When you delve a bit deeper, it becomes clear that shoppers in certain categories are more habitual than others.

Classic or mainstream beer shoppers – the Lion Reds of this world – are the most habitual, with 58% of shoppers making the same purchase day in and day out.

Bourbon, vodka and rum shoppers also tend to have their favourites and stick to them.

But shoppers in categories like traditional cider (26%), RTD vodka (26%), craft cider (27%) and fortified/dessert wines (29%) are anything but habitual.

They may still plan their purchase and be influenced by advertising or digital communications, but what they bought in the past has comparatively little bearing on what they do in the future. For that reason, categories in this bucket need to be visible to allow shoppers to be flexible in their behaviour. A category like classic beer can be located where it normally is because shoppers will hunt it out. An RTD vodka shopper might need a little gentle reminder every now and then.

TAKEOUT #2: SOME CATEGORIES ARE NOT HABITUAL AT ALL AND NEED TO BE GIVEN SOME HELP TO ENTICE THAT PURCHASE. AUTOPILOT WON’T WORK VERY WELL HERE. THE ENTICEMENT FACTOR The above raises an interesting question – what is most effective at enticing shoppers to do something they were not planning on doing?

There is the standard go-to of a display combined with a hot price to drive some

“LIQUOR SHOPPERS – PARTICULARLY AFTER LOCKDOWN – DON’T JUST BUY WHAT’S FAMILIAR. THEY WANT TO TRY SOMETHING NEW. THEY WANT THEATRE. THEY WANT EXCITEMENT.” impulsive behaviour, and yes these certainly are effective in some instances.

But it is more insightful to understand if the display drives the impulsive act, or if the price is the key factor. As a general rule, in Traditional Liquor a display is more effective at driving a shopper into making an impulsive purchase than a hot price is.

But again, this varies by category.

Brandy shoppers are more impulsively influenced by the price rather than the display, although both factors are quite strong compared with the rest of the store average. A tequila shopper or a traditional cider shopper is far more influenced by the display with the price almost an afterthought.

And then we have the gin shopper – they are probably not even going to notice the display or the price at all and will just hunt out their favourite.

TAKEOUT #3: BOTH A DISPLAY AND A HOT PRICE ARE NOT NECESSARILY NEEDED TO DRIVE IMPULSIVE PURCHASING. ONE OF THESE FACTORS CAN BE JUST AS EFFECTIVE ON THEIR OWN. And then there is the factor which in many cases can be the most powerful one of all outside of habitual purchasing – pure, straight out visibility. Not visibility in the sense of an off-location display connected with a hot price, but the shopper being drawn in by a trigger which is not promotional in nature.

This could be any number of things – instore signage, navigational tools, product of the week, instore taste testing – anything that a shopper does not recognise as price or promotional display drivers which encourage purchase. I often refer to this with our clients as the “I just saw it” phenomenon. It is extremely

powerful at driving impulsive decisions because it is part of the experience, rather than perceived as being part of the transaction.

For more transactional categories like gin, vodka or white wine, this is less necessary. But in categories like Rosé wines, RTD rum and craft cider, the shopper is looking for a connection which is not all about paying the best price. To best satisfy those shoppers and keep them coming back, stores must invest in the experiential aspect for those categories. And that doesn’t mean you have to be cheaper than the competition.

TAKEOUT #4: FIND OUT WHICH CATEGORIES HAVE SHOPPERS LOOKING FOR AN EXPERIENCE AND DIAL IT UP ACCORDINGLY. TRADITIONAL LIQUOR ISN’T GROCERY, SO DON’T TRY TO BE THE SAME It sounds pretty obvious, but Traditional Liquor isn’t the same as Grocery. Grocery obviously has some inbuilt advantages compared with Traditional Liquor – more stock weight, sharper pricing, less categories to worry about – but the reverse is also true. Shoppers in Traditional Liquor come to the channel because they can buy things they can’t buy in Grocery for sure, but it goes much deeper than that. Their expectations are much more about having a premium experience in Traditional Liquor. They come for education, they come to try new things, they come to be impressed, they come to enjoy the experience of shopping. Understanding which categories need to be a transactional experience and which need to be an impressive, memorable experience is key.

Shoppers will just do what they always do, right? Not if you have any say in it. ■

SHOPPER INTELLIGENCE NZ We believe only by understanding how shoppers think and behave, can we influence what they buy.

Shopper Intelligence interviews more than 45,000 shoppers in New Zealand across the Supermarket, P&C and Traditional Liquor channels in order to drive strategic shopper-led commercial decisions at retailer, category, segment and brand levels. If you want to understand your shopper better, contact Andrew Arnold, NZ Country Manager at Shopper Intelligence, at andrew.arnold@shopperintelligence.co.nz.

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 11

From brightly coloured, artificially flavoured and full of sugar, to clean, natural and sugar-free, RTDs have come a long way since the 1990s, reports The Shout NZ Editor Charlotte Cowan.

TO DRINK

12 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

RTDs

j

ust a few years ago, the ready-to-drink (RTD) category was typically reserved for millennials who enjoyed a range of sweet and colourful drinks on a night out.

But, like so many other liquor categories, RTDs have undergone rapid transformation over the past few years.

The term ‘RTD’ encompasses a large range of alcoholic beverages. From your classic rum & coke, vodka & lemonade or gin & tonic mixes, to seltzer-styles, pre-mixed cocktails, fruit-flavoured alcohol beverages and so many things in between. If it comes premixed in bottle or a can, you can pretty much call it an RTD. However, while the RTD has made a comeback, the term can bring with it some negative connotations. In the 1990s and early 2000s, RTDs were typically produced to offer approachable – but usually sugar-filled – flavours to consumers who saw traditional spirits and mixers as unapproachable. Because of that, many new brands are shying away from naming their products a classic RTD, preferring instead to call them premixes or better-for-me RTDs. But whatever you choose to call them, market analysts IWSR say that the volume growth of RTDs is out-pacing that of most other beverage alcohol categories

globally. According to a recent report on global beverage alcohol trends, between 2019 and 2020, consumers in 10 key global RTD markets gained close to 2000 new RTD products. That growth is largely driven by the health and wellness trend of choosing low-sugar, low-ABV beverages, as well as convenience. “The portability and single-serve nature of RTDs has proven a key factor of growth, especially during COVID-19,” says IWSR. In New Zealand, the light RTD category increased in value by 27.7% last year, which equates to $38 million in retail sales value.

As the category continues to broaden with new innovations, we take a look a few of the recent trends that have emerged in the local and global RTD category.

HARD SELTZER AND BETTER-FORME RTDS Hard seltzer – or alcoholic carbonated water – is perhaps the most popular product to have hit New Zealand.

Creeping in with the introduction of Native Sparkling in 2019, the category is now filling up fast with low-sugar, low-calorie, natural hard seltzers.

Joining the better-for-me RTD movement (not exactly a seltzer but more seltzer-style) have been brands such as Pal’s, Part Time Rangers, Sundown and Wild x Soda – amongst other smaller companies.

Consumers that focus on the health and wellness trend are choosing these sessionable lower-ABV options – and producers are thinking of new ways to get their products seen in the market.

In most cases, hard seltzers and betterfor-me RTDs can’t be sold in supermarkets due to the spirits or spirit-like alcohol they contain (typically vodka, gin, or malt and sugar ferments). However, last year DB launched Club Setter and Pure Piraña, two ‘beer seltzers’ which are made using the same ingredients and processes as beer and can be sold as a beer alternative on supermarket shelves.

However, if you’re thinking of launching a wine-based seltzer into supermarkets, you will be out of luck. Bridget McDonald,

GLOBALLY, THE RTD CATEGORY IS FORECAST TO GROW

41%

BETWEEN 2019 AND 2024 IWSR Global Ready-to-Drink Alcohol Strategic Study

New Zealand Alcohol Beverages Council Executive Director, says according to the Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code, wine sold in supermarkets cannot be anything other than the product of fermented grapes.

“If anything is added such as fruit juice or sparkling water, then it ceases to be wine, and is considered a ‘wine product’,” says MacDonald. “However, beer-based seltzers meet the definition of a beer and can be sold in supermarkets.”

But MacDonald says product development sometimes moves faster than regulation, and there is now an opportunity to consider whether lower-alcohol beverages can be made more accessible.

HARD TEA One of the newest RTD trends to reach our shores is hard tea. Typically aimed at the health-conscious consumer, according to IWSR, hard tea often includes healthboosting ingredients such as turmeric, ginger, and berry botanicals.

Brendan Yielder and Olivier Despatis launched Cheeky Hard Iced Tea into New Zealand last year. The first of its kind to be produced here, Yielder and Despatis took inspiration from time spend in Canada, where hard iced tea is incredibly popular. “[Olivier and I] returned to New Zealand to study business at a time when the low-cal alcoholic beverage space, driven

by RTDs, was experiencing explosive growth,” Yielder told The Shout NZ. “Our goal was simple - we wanted to introduce

“HEALTH-CONSCIOUS CONSUMERS OFTEN HAVE TO COMPROMISE ON FLAVOUR WHEN PURCHASING RTDS OR OPT FOR A LOWER ALCOHOL CONTENT.” BRENDAN YIELDER, CHEEKY HARD ICED TEA THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 13

RTDs

Cheeky founders Olivier Despatis and Brendan Yielder

the same refreshing, flavour-packed hard iced teas we’d grown to love in Canada to the New Zealand market, while adapting the product to the needs of increasingly health-conscious Kiwis.”

Made using premium vodka, black tea extract, a balanced combination of natural sweetener and 1% sugar and natural lemon flavours, Cheeky is noncarbonated, 6% ABV and 130 calories.

“From the outset, we knew our beverage had to be still (noncarbonated) if we were going to stand out in the market and satisfy the growing demographic of iced tea drinkers in Aotearoa,” says Yielder.

Cheeky’s initial release of 600 boxes into Otago retailers sold out in four days in December and Yielder says the company is looking forward to expanding its retail presence across the nation and introducing new flavours in the coming months.

“Health-conscious consumers often have to compromise on flavour when purchasing RTDs or opt for a lower alcohol content,” he says. “We’ve managed to produce a flavour-packed RTD using natural ingredients. We’re sitting comfortably amongst our competitors in the low-cal RTD alcoholic beverage space.”

CRAFT SPIRIT BRANDED RTDS While big liquor brands such as Jim Beam, Smirnoff, Vodka Cruiser and Woodstock continue to develop RTD versions of their spirit lines, the IWSR says one of the most notable shifts in the RTD category is towards premiumisation and the entry of the craft brands into the space.

“Craft distilleries are launching spiritbased RTDs made with their own signature gin or vodka, often with the addition of localised 14 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

ingredients or botanicals, creating more herbaceous and complex pre-mixed options,” says the IWSR’s RTD report.

“These releases tap into a wider trend of twists on classic serves with unusual or exotic ingredients.”

Christchurch-based distilling brand Scapegrace launched two premium RTDs – Scapegrace Gin, Tonic with Blood Orange, and Gin, Soda with Lime – into the market in late 2019. They have since released Scapegrace Vodka, with Lime, Vodka & Old Fashioned Lemonade with Mint, and a lower ABV Vodka, Soda, with Cucumber and Mint variant, which is 2.5%.

“Being New Zealand’s largest domestic brand, it seemed like a natural progression to move into the RTD space,” Mark Neal, Scapegrace Marketing Director, told The Shout NZ. “We also noticed that the

majority of RTDs on the market didn’t actually use distilled spirit and were adding flavouring to ethanol.”

Neal says Scapegrace uses its distilled spirit as the base product for both its gin and vodka RTDs. “Whilst [it’s] rather easy to produce a non-distilled RTD, the cost associated with producing distilled RTDs are significantly more,” he says. “The positive thing is consumers are starting to understand the genuine difference in quality and profile.”

Neal says, like the rise of craft beer 5+ years ago, the category has transformed into a genuine growth category for producers.

“No doubt there will be a shake down at some stage, which is why it is super-important to have a clear point of difference.”

Scapegrace launched its premium RTDs in 2019

STAND-OUT PACKAGING When it comes to drawing in consumers, convenience and packaging is key – especially in the age of Instagram.

According to IWSR, the three most popular components of RTD packaging are bright, eye-catching colours, simple designs and slender cans.

“This stylish but approachable aesthetic keeps canned RTDs accessible while also making them appear more premium than soda or beer products,” says IWSR. Plus, with their single-serve nature meaning they are often consumed outside of the home (i.e. at festivals or the beach), this lends to the possibility of a social media presence.

“If drinks makers get the design of their brands right, they’re much more likely to be photographed by consumers in aspirational and brandaligned settings.”

One brand making an impact with stand-out packing

RTDs is Absolut, which recently launched its prototype Absolut Paper Bottle in the UK and Sweden. While not exactly following the ‘rules’ of bright, simple and canned, the paper bottle which holds Absolut’s ‘Absolut Mixt’ RTDs is made from 57% paper and 43% recycled plastic and is sure to blow up on social media due to its innovation and eco-friendliness.

“The truth is, we’re not really a spirits brand - we’re a social brand,” says Absolut on its website. “Whether sharing cocktails, conversations, or collaborations, that is where ideas for a forward future happen.”

So, as we always ask, what’s next?

According to IWSR, throughout 2021, category evolution will be driven by factors such as innovation in alcohol bases (such as finding alternatives for gluten-free consumers), exploration of new and increasingly local flavours, and premium product offerings. “Winners will differentiate their proposition to consumers in order to stand out among the masses,” says IWSR COO Americas, Brandy Rand. With consumers certainly ‘ready-to-drink’ both locally and globally, this is not a category that shows any sign of slowing down. ■

Absolut’s new paper bottle prototype

Ditch the fizz and settle in for a deliciously refreshing experience. Vodka iced tea, lightly sweetened, with notes of fresh lemon, and a rich amber colour that can only be compared to liquid g d!

y a n n o d r a h C AS MS

OUGL D N O R E M Y CA

B

1

i

f you still haven’t seen the documovie A Seat at the Table, then now might be a good time. Throughout the movie the many positive messages about New Zealand wine and its stories of different grape varieties, sustainability, screw-top closures, ‘terroir’ and fine winemaking are clear – which is many winemakers and wine companies are passionate about what they do and are working hard to look after the land and people within the sector and continue to make fine wine.

In the movie, there is an interview with respected wine writer Jancis Robinson who suggests very strongly that New Zealand Chardonnay is world class and the wine sector here could focus much more attention to the variety. In the same movie, there is an interview with a well-known London-based wine retailer who regularly conducts blind wine event with respected wine critics. He too suggests the same for New Zealand Chardonnay, referencing many tastings of the variety and, without fail, most attending suggest the best wines in the line-up are white Burgundy when, in fact, they are nearly all from New Zealand.

New Zealand’s climate and myriad soil types are ideally suited to growing Chardonnay and all regions grow the variety well. Not only do the different soils types influence aroma and flavour, so too does the use of dry-farming, organic practices, vineage, canopy management and harvest decisions.

All of these factors help winemakers determine complexity and texture as well as core fruit flavours.

Yellow stone fruits, apple and quince, citrus and pith, and minerality to flowers are all considered desirable flavours in Chardonnay.

There is a trend towards lesser use of oak overall and when it is used – fewer new oak barrels are in the mix. Barrel sizes still favour the traditional 225 and 228 litre sizes for Chardonnay, but there is a growing trend towards the use of 500 litre puncheons. Some producers are exploring the use concrete or wooden eggs for ferments with low or no oak influence at all. Traditions and trends aside, Chardonnay fruit must be managed by a skilled winemaker who understands the variety’s idiosyncrasies, strengths and weaknesses and vintage to produce the individual styles we have come to enjoy.

2

3

4

Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.

16 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

tasting notes VILLA MARIA KELTERN HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 Superb bouquet - complex and complete, youthful and captivating.

Aromas and flavours on the palate of grapefruit and peach, new oak, wood smoke, toasty barrel spice and citrus pith. Fine wood tannins and plenty of acidity along with gently warming alcohol drive the flavour and texture. The finish is long and detailed where the mineral stony soils and chalky moments begin to emerge. Still integrating, you can afford to cellar this wine for a while. Best drinking from early to mid 2022 through 2029+.

Points 97 RRP $79.99 Distributor: Villa Maria Wines Phone: (09) 255 0660 www.villamaria.co.nz

1

6

5

GREYWACKE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2013 Fantastic bouquet, complex and detailed with aromas of vanilla baked custard, roasted stone fruits and wood spices. Still integrating with a vibrant youthful drive from acidity, toasty oak and a core of fruit. Full-bodied and complex with citrus, stone fruit and spice flavours that reflect the nose. Intriguing mineral and floral moments, a saline salivating layer - all leading to a lengthy finish. Best drinking from today and through 2025+.

Points 96 RRP $51.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 572 5425 www.greywacke.com

2

7

8

HUIA VINEYARDS MARLBOROUGH ORGANIC CHARDONNAY 2019 Distinctive and complex bouquet with aromas of honeysuckle and mineral, then white peaches, apple and pears. As the wine opens up in glass, it releases scents of wild flowers and delicate aromatic spices. Dry and equally complex on the palate, with flavours that mirror the nose, fabulous textures and weight, fine tannins and overall mouthfeel. An excellent example drink well now and through 2025+.

Points 96 RRP $42.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 572 8326 www.huiavineyards.com

3

9

AMISFIELD CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2019 Complex and engaging bouquet with aromas of mineral and fresh ripe stone fruits, grapefruit, some apple and citrus; flowers then an oak and lees autolysis. Tense, ripe and salivating on the palate with a youthful drive and energy. White apricot, peach, red apple and wood spices then wood tannins and acidity create a complete mouthfeel and complex engaging wine. A youthful wine needing cellar time. Best drinking from 2022 through 2028+.

Points 95 RRP $50.00 Distributor: Amisfield Phone: (03) 428 0406 www.amisfield.co.nz

4

AURUM WINES CENTRAL OTRAGO ORGANIC CHARDONNAY 2018 Fantastic bouquet with texture, fruit, wild flowers and minerality.

On the palate - a wine of texture first, then a core of citrus and stone fruit flavours, then flowers and lees and finally layers of oak wood giving structure and complexity.

An excellent aperitif style or just enjoy on its own today and through 2026+.

Point 95 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Dhall & Nash Phone: (03) 445 3620 www.aurumwines.com

5

PEREGRINE WINES CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2020 Aromas of white peach and apple, vanilla cream and toasty oak, a layer of minerality with stone and dry clay. A quietly complex bouquet needing time in glass to reveal all.

Lovely mouthfeel and creaminess with flavours of mineral and Otago flowers, vanilla and white fleshed fruits, some wood spices, fine tannins and medium+ acidity with a lite saline moment. Perfectly balanced and ready to drink upon purchase and through 2026.

Points 95 RRP $39.00 Distributor: Peregrine Wines Phone: (03) 442 4000 www.peregrinewines.co.nz

6

NEUDORF ROSIE’S BLOCK MOUTERE CHARDONNAY 2019 This is a barrel ferment expression and with just 8% new French used, the emphasis is on purity, vine age and refinement with a bouquet voice on site first, a core of fruit second and fine judicious use of oak third. A lovely soft creamy texture on the palate with flavours of fresh orchard fruits and citrus then a youthful squeeze of acidity a lite salty edge. The oak, acidity and alcohol provide a sound foundation and there’s a fine spice with an equally fine savoury edginess adding complexity and depth. Delicious. Drink now and through 2027+.

Points 95 RRP $45.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (03) 543 2643 www.neudorf.co.nz

7

ASTROLABE WREKIN VINEYARD MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Complex and alluring aromas of fruit, minerals and toasty barrel spices, a layer of flinty white smoke adds depth, while a mix of pure lemon and grapefruit, white peach and flowers add charm and poise. Youthful, tense, fruity and dry on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose, fine wood tannins and medium+ acidity secure the foundation structure as well as adding length. Well made and ready to enjoy from mid to late 2021 through 2026+.

Points 94 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Astrolabe Wines Phone: (03) 577 6794 www.astrolabewines.co.nz

8

CLOUDY BAY MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2018 An engaging wine with a fresh, bright, complex and modern bouquet showcasing aromas of gunflint and mineral, fresh grapefruit and peach, new barrel and nut. On the palate - youthful, tense, fresh, crisp, fruity and equally engaging as the nose suggest.

Fruit flavours of stone and citrus underpin textured from barrel and acidity then a leesy salty nut complexity. Weighty, lengthy and new. Best drinking from 2022 through 2026+.

Points 94 RRP $42.99 Distributor: Moët Hennessy Phone: (03) 520 9140 www.cloudybay.co.nz

9

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 17

tasting notes GREYWACKE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2017 Youthful bouquet with aromas of fresh, ripe stone and citrus fruits, sweet new barrel and mild toasty wood spices. Quite complex. On the palate - dry, rich in flavour and texture with a mix of yellow orchard fruits and citrus, apple and plenty of wood spice and toasty flavours. Plenty of acidity and wood tannins reveal a strong foundation for the fruit and ageing.

Well made, youthful, vibrant engaging. Best drinking from mid to late 2022 and through 2028+.

Points 94 RRP $43.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 572 5425 www.greywacke.com

10

KARIKARI ESTATE NORTHLAND CHARDONNAY 2019 Lovely bouquet, distinctive, ripe, fruity, nutty, oaky and bold. Full-bodied on the palate with a big creamy texture. Flavours of roasted stone fruits and preserved citrus, tangerine, vanilla cream custard and toasty wood spices. Plenty of acidity, a big style with all the weight, power and intensity, creamy texture old school Chardonnay fans love - me too.

Drink upon purchase and through 2024.

Points 94 RRP $42.00 Distributor: Great Little Vineyards Phone: (021) 612 889 www.karikariestate.co.nz

11

LUNA ESTATE ECLIPSE MARTINBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Aromas of ripe yellow stone fruits, sweet citrus and apple. No mistaking the oak, with a vanilla custard and baking spice scent. Complex on the palate with a lovely core of fresh orchard fruit flavours, fine wood tannins, toasty oak layers and contrasting acidity. Lovely texture and length, balanced and well made, but also quite youthful. Best drinking from mid-to-late 2021 through 2027+.

Points 94 RRP $38.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (06) 306 9360 www.lunaestate.co.nz

12

MILLS REEF ELSPETH HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2019 No mistaking the complexity, power and drive in the bouquet with aromas of new oak, battonage, cashew nut and barrel spices. Full-bodied, creamy, varietal and fruity. Plenty of oak is contrasted by the core of ripeness in the fruit and flavours of baked stone fruit and citrus. Fine wood tannins, alcohol and acidity provide a strong foundation. Balanced, complex and well made. Drink upon release and through 2026.

Points 94 RRP $39.95 Distributor: Leveret & Mills Reef Winery Phone: (0800) 667 866 www.millsreef.co.nz

13

NANNY GOAT CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2019 Immediately enticing with a complex mix of mineral and white peach, sweet lemon, baked nut and soft smoky barrel scents. Satin textures with very fine

14

18 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

wood tannins, firm, youthful acidity and a core of mineral and citrus flavours. Baking spice, smoke and peach come through on the finish. A lovely wine, perfect for food. Drink now and through 2025+.

Points 94 RRP $36.00 Distributor: Red+White Cellar Phone: (03) 443 4347 www.nannygoatvineyard.co.nz

10 11

AOTEA BY THE SEIFRIED FAMILY NELSON CHARDONNAY 2019 Elegant bouquet with flavours of ripe white-fleshed orchard fruits, apple and fresh grapefruit. Minerality begins to show on the palate when the wine opens up after five minutes - a silty dusty-stone quality.

Medium+ acidity, barrel spices with a mix of new and older oak. Nicely weighted, creamy and dry. Best drinking from late 2021 through 2028.

Points 94 RRP $39.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (03) 544 5599 www.seifried.co.nz

15

12

13

STATE OF FLUX AWATERE VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2019 This zero oak influenced wine showcases aromas and flavours of white peach and apple, lemon and lees autolysis. Quietly complex and needs time in glass to open up fully. Satin textures from lees and acidity, a core of fruit and mineral centric flavours present a wine with a point of difference. Great acid line and lengthy finish - a wine to enjoy from today and through 2026+ Points 94 RRP $39.00 Distributor: Yealands Wines Phone: (03) 575 7618 www.yealands.co.nz

16

ASTROLABE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Aromas of sweet vanilla oak and fresh yellow stone fruits, red apple and crushed stone earthy qualities.

Weighty, creamy textures and toasty oak are contrasted by a core of fruit and complexity. Flavours mirror the nose while the oak offer finely textured tannins with medium+ acidity for contrast. Balanced and well made with a lengthy and persistently flavoured finish. Drink now and through 2024+.

Points 93 RRP $32.00 Distributor: Astrolabe Wines Phone: (03) 577 6794 www.astrolabewines.co.nz

14 15

17

ASTROLABE THE FARM MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Complex, ripe, toasty and fruity, varietal and youthful intensity driving the bouquet. Flavours of peaches and apples, apricots and baking spices dominate the core. Plenty of acidity and fine toasty oak qualities along with near full-body creaminess and richness add weight and finish. A lovely wine, quite youthful needing some integration time. Best drinking from late 2021 through 2026+.

Points 93 RRP $45.00 Distributor: Astrolabe Wines Phone: (03) 577 6794 www.astrolabewines.co.nz

18

16

17

18

19

tasting notes CATALINA SOUNDS SOUND OF WHITE SV MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 An alluring bouquet of smoky oak and baked yellow stone fruits, lees autolysis and apple, brown spices and dry stony minerality. Equally enticing on the palate with flavours that mirror the nose, silky creamy texture with moments of fine wood tannins and medium+ acidity.

Balanced and well made, a lovely wine to enjoy upon purchase and through 2025.

Points 93 RRP $34.95 Distributor: Red+White Cellar Phone: (03) 579 6148 www.catalinasounds.co.nz

19

20

21

HUNTERS WINES MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 No mistaking the power of fruit and oak in harmony on the nose - peach and sweet baking spices, apples and brazil-nut, vanilla and toasty barrel. Full-bodied, toasty, oaky and fruity on the palate with flavours reflect the bouquet of fruit and woody attributes, warming alcohol and refreshing acidity. A lovely wine ready to enjoy upon purchase and through 2023+.

Points 93 RRP $24.90 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (03) 314 6869 www.hunters.co.nz

20

22

23

24

RABBIT RANCH CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2020 An enticing bouquet with texture as well as a ripe fruit core, leesy autolysis layer and varietal signatures of stone fruit, citrus and regional minerality. Satin texture and plenty of acidity precede a core of stone and citrus fruit flavours, some mineral moments and fine wood tannins with a touch of nutty barrel spice. Well made and ready to drink upon purchase and through 2025.

Points 93 RRP $23.99 Distributor: Rabbit Ranch Phone: (03) 442 6110 www.rabbitranch.co.nz

21

WAIRAU RIVER ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2019 An enticing bouquet with aromas and palate flavours of vanilla and baking spices, a core of stone fruit and citrus then a raw cashew nut and fine toasty barrel layer. Plenty of weight and creaminess with contrasting acidity - flavours of apple, citrus and peach before a swing back to oak and nut. Great drinking upon purchase and through 2024.

Points 93 RRP $20.00 Distributor: Federal Merchants Phone: (03) 572 7950 www.wairauriverwines.com

22

25

SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Soft, plush, fruity and satin textured bouquet with aromas of white peach and apple, vanilla cream and quietly spoken oak spice. Flavours mirror the nose with acidity and lite wood tannins create an engaging combination.

There’s a nice salivating and lite saline effect contrasted by the core of fruit. Well made and ready to drink upon purchase and through 2024+.

Points 93 RRP $19.90 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (09) 531 5222 www.saintclair.co.nz

23

LEVERET ESTATE RESERVE HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2018 No mistaking the enticing and ‘old school’ wine style of Chardonnay with aromas of butterscotch, vanilla custard and baked nectarine. The delicate layer of stony soil adds complexity. On the palate - full-bodied, creamy and smooth textures give way to flavours of vanilla and toasty barrel flavours, baked stone fruits and a touch of citrus. Balanced, well made and ready. Best drinking from today and through 2022.

Points 92 RRP $31.50 Distributor: Leveret & Mills Reef Winery Phone: (0800) 667 866 www.leveretestatewine.com

24

ARA WINES SINGLE ESTATE MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2020 Ripe, fruity and varietal, very youthful bouquet with a raw energy and freshness. Flavours of ripe lemon and apple then peach and apricot.

Distinctive mouthfeel with fine tannins and a citrus pith suggestion accentuated by acidity and use of wood. Quite youthful still so needing some settling time. Best drinking from mid 2021 through 2024+.

Points 91 RRP $21.99 Distributor: Giesen Group Phone: (03) 344 6270 www.arawines.co.nz

25

ASTROLABE DURVILLEA MARLBOROUGH CHARDONNAY 2019 Bright, fruity, varietal and inviting bouquet with aromas and flavours of sweet yellow peach and white fleshed tree fruits, lemon and mild oaky spices of vanilla and raw sugar. Soft and silky texture with contrasting acidity and fine wood tannins. Balanced, youthful and ready to enjoy upon purchase and through 2023.

Points 91 RRP $20.00 Distributor: Astrolabe Wines Phone: (03) 577 6794 www.astrolabewines.co.nz

26

26 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 19

s i r G t o n Pi BY

a

quick check of a few wine retailers online had between 35 and 57 Pinot Gris for sale and several dozen available at any one of the big supermarket chains. New Zealand-produced Gris is still very popular, with prices ranging from $6.99 to more than $60.00 a bottle. The vast majority of wines are non-sparkling, but you can find Pinot Gris Rosé and blend versions as well.

What’s clear is that Gris remains a very popular variety and wine with consumers. Styles within the category are quite varied and price plays a big role on the scale of quality – the higher the price the higher the quality.

Pinot Gris is a lot harder to grow than you might think – it tends to want to crop heavily on the vine and while this might be good for volume, it’s not so good for flavour concentration and texture. Gris is also a variety that doesn’t produce a lot of acidity naturally, though it does increase in cooler climates, and if cropped too heavily, flavours become dilute and the resulting wines are often manipulated into a specific style. Consumers

who like to pay at the lower end of the retail price scale can get wine with higher residual sugar, lower acidity and higher alcohol with little flavour. Conversely, at the higher end of the price quality scale, Gris will often have power and concentration, a great mouthfeel and texture with lots of flavour. Mid-priced Pinot Gris tend to offer the best value and deliver well on flavour and texture.

When it comes to food pairing with Pinot Gris, there are many applications.

Generally - most Gris is medium weight with acidity at the same level, often with a fleshy mid-palate texture and flavours of white fleshed orchard fruits. This style lends itself to dishes with fresh cheese – like cottage or mozzarella medium weighted dishes such as a mild Indian curry with coconut, most mild Thai dishes with seafood or chicken and nearly all vegetarian and vegan dishes. If you consider beer battered fish and chips classic Kiwi fare, then you’ll also find classic New Zealand Pinot Gris a good match. One of the best matches with Gris is crayfish and sauce mornay.

S MS

UGLA O D N O R E CAM

1

3

2

Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.

20 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

tasting notes AURUM WINES ORGANIC CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2019 A distinctive personality leads the bouquet, with aromas of wild flowers and heirloom orchard fruits - lemons and small green pears, some quince and apple then a core of mineral and soil. A texture driven wine on the palate with combinations of fine lees and super fine fruit tannins, chalky mouthfeel with contrasting fruit and acidity. A delicious wine, lengthy, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2024+.

Points 95 RRP $28.00 Distributor: Dhall & Nash Phone: (03) 445 3620 www.aurumwines.com

1

5

4

6

7 8

2 AMISFIELD CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2020 Immediately engaging bouquet of Gris with myriad fruits, minerals and leesy autolysis and complexity. On the palate - exotic, fleshy, fruity and spicy with flavours of quince and lemon, pear and leesy spices. Crunchy and refreshing acid line carrying the flavours of mineral and spice. Gently warming alcohol adds weight and creaminess to the texture and lengthening the finish. Drink now and through 2024+.

Points 94 RRP $35.00 Distributor: Amisfield Phone: (03) 428 0406 www.amisfield.co.nz 3 GREYWACKE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2018 Complex, varietal, pure fruit core, floral, layers of mineral and fine lees complete the bouquet. On the palate - equally complex and fruit centric with flavours of white-fleshed fruits laced with exotic spices, a touch of dried herb and citrus peel. Warm and generous with a satin texture, medium+ acidity and lengthy finish. Delicious! Best drinking upon purchase and through 2026.

Points 94 RRP $31.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 572 5425 www.greywacke.com LOVEBLOCK ORGANIC MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2020 Plush, fresh, elegant and varietal. A core of fruits showcasing white peach, red and yellow apples, pear and white spice. On the palate - a coarse silk texture precedes flavours of white fleshed orchard fruits, citrus peel and leesy spice layers. Nice acid line and super fine skin tannins add texture and finish.

Drink now and through 2024.

Points 94 RRP $21.99 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirit & Beer Merchants Phone: (09) 365 1471 www.loveblockwine.com

4

MOUNT BROWN ESTATES NORTH CANTERBURY PINOT GRIS 2020 Plush, fruity and creamy textured bouquet with aromas of brown and yellow pears, a touch of quince and soft red apple. On the palate - silky and seamless with flavours of spice and fresh white fleshed fruits linked seamlessly. Acidity, alcohol and some fine lees add texture and weight. Lengthy finish, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2022.

Points 94 RRP $15.99 Distributor: Mount Brown Estates Phone: (027) 521 6693 www.mountbrown.co.nz

5

PEREGRINE WINES CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2020 An attractive, enticing bouquet with aromas of fragrant spices and a core of fruit, a leesy minerality with fine autolysis and delicate floral moments. Satin and silk textures on the palate frame a core of fruit with sweet pears and apple, white peach and citrus.

Contrasting acidity and gently warming alcohol with a fine phenolic mouthfeel make for excellent drinking and food pairing. Drink from today and through 2024.

Points 94 RRP $29.00 Distributor: Peregrine Wines Phone: (03) 442 4000 www.peregrinewines.co.nz

6

LUNA ESTATE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2020 Really lovely lifted aromatics with aromas of green and yellow white-fleshed fruits, a mix of fruit spices and mineral with a light silty soil mineral layer. On the palate - crisp, fresh, tense, youthful and just dry on the finish. Flavours of pears and apples, lemon, spice and mineral. Plenty of acidity with a fine phenolic texture. Balanced and well made with a lengthy, bright and crisp finish. Well made and ready to drink upon purchase and through 2022.

Points 93 RRP $24.00 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (06) 306 9360 www.lunaestate.co.nz

7

MIDDLE-EARTH WINE NELSON PINOT GRIS 2020 Varietal, ripe, fruity and enticing aromas of white fleshed fruits, honeysuckle and delicate layers of lees autolysis. Fresh, plush and juicy textures on the palate with plenty of acidity and a core of fruit driving the mouthfeel, weight and length. A lovely example ready to enjoy from purchase and through 2023.

Points 93 RRP $22.00 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirit & Beer Merchants Phone: (03) 542 4145 www.middleearthwine.com

8

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 21

tasting notes 9

MILLS REEF RESERVE HAWKE’S BAY PINOT GRIS 2020 Totally enticing bouquet with aromas of power and richness, a core of fruit, oiliness and spice. Perfectly balanced on the palate with a concentration of fruit and white spices, fresh lemon, pears and apples. The lees contact adds texture, mouthfeel and intrigue.

Long finish, balanced and well made. Drink upon purchase and through 2023.

Points 93 RRP $23.99 Distributor: Leveret & Mills Reef Winery Phone: (0800) 667 866 www.millsreef.co.nz

9

SEIFRIED FAMILY WINEMAKERS NELSON PINOT GRIS 2020 You’ll notice a delicate onion skin hue to this wine - all natural - leading to aromas and palate flavours of apple and Asian pear, honeysuckle and lemon pepper. Plenty of acidity to contrast the core of fruit and satin texture. A touch of lees extend the finish.

Balanced refreshing example. Drink now and through 2023+.

Points 93 RRP $19.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (03) 544 5599 www.seifried.co.nz

10

WILD EARTH WINES CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2019 I like the mineral and sense of place in the bouquet and palate in this wine - fresh citrus and stone, green pear and apple. There’s a quiet seam of dried herb and gentle phenolic texture adding mouthfeel and depth. Dry in Grigio style with a balanced even palate of flavours and textures. Well made and ready to enjoy from today and through 2023.

Points 93 RRP $30.00 Distributor: Wild Earth Wines Phone: (027) 552 02 99 www.wildearthwines.co.nz

11

YEALANDS RESERVE AWATERE VALLEY PINOT GRIS 2020 Ripe, fruity, bold and varietal. There’s a fine savoury dried herb seam that is appealing adding complexity. On the palate - flavours of white fleshed fruits, lemon and pith, some honeysuckle and white spice. There’s a salty edge to the acidity - nice! Perfectly weighted, fruity and savoury, warming alcohol and lengthy finish. Well made and ready to enjoy from today and through 2024+.

Points 93 RRP $18.95 Distributor: Yealands Wines Phone: (03) 575 7618 www.yealands.co.nz

12

22 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

ALLAN SCOTT FAMILY WINEMAKERS MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2020 Ripe, fruity, fleshy and varietal aromas with spicy white-fleshed pears, pacific rose apple and baked quince. There’s a fine dried herb quality and lees complexity. Off-dry on the palate with contrasting acidity, weighty and creamy in texture with fruit and lees flavours to contrast and reflect the bouquet and variety. Balanced, well made and ready now.

Best drinking from today and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $15.99 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirit & Beer Merchants Phone: (027) 242 5467 www.allanscott.com

10

13

ARA WINES SINGLE ESTATE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2020 Ripe, plump fruited bouquet with aromas of fleshy juicy pears and yellow apple, citrus and a lite savoury saline core. Textures of silk and cream with a core of fruit flavours that reflect the nose. Medium+ acidity and stony soil moments. Balanced and well made, ready to enjoy upon purchase and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $21.99 Distributor: Giesen Group Phone: (03) 344 6270 www.arawines.co.nz

14

ASTROLABE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2020 Fresh and fruity with aromas of fragrant spices, ripe green and brown pear, apples and sweet lemon. Dry on the palate with a core of fruit showcasing lemon and apple then pear and spice. Plenty of acidity and finely textured mouthfeel round out the wine adding length and complexity. Well made and ready to enjoy upon purchase and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $27.00 Distributor: Astrolabe Phone: (03) 577 6794 www.astrolabewines.co.nz

11 12

15

13

14

15

tasting notes

16

17 18

16

CATALINA SOUNDS MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2020 Enticing bouquet of spicy white-fleshed stone fruits, citrus, honeysuckle and apple.

Crisp, spicy, leesy and dry on the palate with a contrasting core of fruit with flavours that reflect the nose. Elegant, lean and mineral style. Balanced and ready to enjoy from today and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $25.99 Distributor: Red+White Cellar Phone: (03) 579 6148 www.catalinasounds.co.nz

WAIRAU RIVER ESTATE PINOT GRIS 2020 Precise and appealing bouquet with aromas of fresh pear and apple, honeysuckle, moments of mineral and white spice. Soft, smooth and fruit centric on the palate.

Equally precise with flavours that reflect the nose, medium+ acidity and a silky lengthy finish. Well made and ready to drink from today and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $20.00 Distributor: Federal Merchants Phone: (03) 572 7950 www.wairauriverwines.com

FALCONHEAD HAWKE’S BAY PINOT GRIS 2020 Varietal and precise bouquet with aromas of green pear and apples, some white spice and stony mineral. Crisp, salivating and dry on the palate with warming alcohol, a core of fruit and contrasting acid line. Well made and nicely complex. Ready to enjoy from today and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $15.99 Distributor: Leveret & Mills Reef Winery Phone: (0800) 667 866 www.leveretestatewine.com

SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2019 Bright, plush, fleshy and fruit centric bouquet. Varietal flavours of red apple, brown pear, some citrus and quince then some exotic spice and white pepper. Crisp, youthful, refreshing and dry with a core of fruit, medium+ acidity, balanced and well made. Best drinking upon purchase and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $19.90 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (09) 531 5222 www.saintclair.co.nz

17

19

20

MATAKANA ESTATE PINOT GRIS 2020 Youthful, plush, fresh and fruit centric bouquet. Pears and apples, a lite lees and lager beer scent - nice, a moment of white pepper a clay soil note. On the palate equally fruity and spicy with white fleshed fruit flavours and citrus that reflect the nose, medium+ (ish) acidity and a balanced even finish. Well made and ready to enjoy upon purchase and through 2023.

Points 92 RRP $28.00 Distributor: Matakana Estate Phone: (0800) 568 686 www.matakanaestate.co.nz

18

21

20

21

OLD COACH ROAD NELSON PINOT GRIS 2020 Bright, fresh, fruity and nicely aromatic bouquet. Flavours of fresh apple and pear, some pear skin and honeysuckle moments.

Satin texture with refreshing acid line, a fine lees moment, balanced and well made with a lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022.

Points 90 RRP $14.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (03) 544 5599 www.seifried.co.nz

22

MILLS REEF HAWKE’S BAY ESTATE PINOT GRIS 2020 Aromas and flavours of Asian pears and yellow apples, delicate fragrant spices and a floral. Fresh, vibrant, varietal and enticing. Crisp, refreshing and just dry with a whisper of residual sweetness and a core of fruits contrasted by acidity. Well made, balanced and ready to drink from today and through 2022.

Points 92 RRP $18.99 Distributor: Leveret & Mills Reef Winery Phone: (0800) 667 866 www.millsreef.co.nz

19

22

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 23

Whisky REGULATIONS AND REVELATIONS

Tash McGill – aka The Whisky Girl – shares an update on the New Zealand Whisky Guidelines and global sales of the most popular brands.

o

pening the books for year-end has shown finally the truth of what COVID-19 has meant for whisky around the world in 2020.

Despite plenty of attention being given to the high volume of alcohol purchased by consumers over lockdowns and online liquor outlets being deemed essential services, it hasn’t been enough to buoy the financial results for some of the industry’s biggest global producers.

For Diageo, home of Johnnie Walker, one of the biggest whisky brands on the globe, the impact on key markets lead to a 47.1% decline in operating profit and an 8.7% reduction in net sales. In Oceania and Asia-Pacific, overall sales fell by 16%.

For Pernod Ricard, Asia-Pacific sales dropped 14% overall, while globally Jameson (arguably Ireland’s highest volume brand) dropped 1% and the Pernod Ricard Scotch Whisky portfolio slumped by 11%.

Both LVMH and Rémy Cointreau reported sales decline of 14 – 16.2% globally in the spirits sector. However Beam Suntory, which owns a diverse portfolio of American whisky, Scotch, Irish and Japanese brands, only reported a 3% slump for the first half of 2020.

24 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

While all brands are putting strong and resilient business strategies into place for 2021, including reducing discretionary spending and refocusing on building new consumer reach plays, it paints a telling picture of exactly how global lockdowns in hospitality, travel and tourism have impacted high volume parts of the market.

It’s also a tale of shipping woes, with the complexity of moving product around oceans of congested shipping lanes, backed up ports and failing infrastructure.

New Zealand importers and retailers have all felt the impact of slow ports and seemingly endless shipping cycles as products inch their way here from other corners of the globe. As one of the few markets where hospitality venues are clawing their way back, it’s a doubleedged sword.

While off-premise distributors had to open and close their online stores to manage the demand, on-premise venues are faced with rapidly changing protocols and consumer behaviour when open and then a stock shortage crisis that continues to play out.

I was sitting in one of my favourite New Zealand venues when I first saw one of my favourite whisky destination bars,

Tash McGill is a spirits and hospitality writer who regularly hosts tastings and education classes for those wanting to know more about spirits and their uses - from cocktails to culinary food matches.

She has been in the spirits and cocktail industry for more than 10 years, writing, tasting and judging competitions.

Jack Rose Dining Saloon in Washington D.C., begin to put its iconic 2700 bottle whisky collection up for sale, sometimes at a discount of up to 50%. Owner Bill Thomas made the choice to sell by the ounce (dram), 100ml sample or the bottle.

“I was determined to get out of this debtfree, even if it means selling a s***ton of whisky,” he says. The endeavour was quickly supported by thousands of American whisky fans, all of a sudden able to access premium and rare malts for a fraction of the cost and experience them all over the United States.

Here in New Zealand, once we opened the bars again, selling the stock was the issue – keeping it on the shelves was. Owner Alex Ricketts from famed whisky bar The Last Word in Christchurch says he has had less issues

whisky than most. “But I have ended up selling a lot of my stock to other venues, especially as distributors have had trouble getting their stock out into the country in a timely fashion,” he says.

“I feel like we’re on the verge of lots of really exciting stock being available at a time when no one really wants to spend the money on it.”

PEOPLE ARE TURNING LOCAL At first glance, it appears that any of the global players with local production and distribution were able to see reduced impact in their regional markets. Beam Suntory reported single digit growth in markets like Japan and Canada, where shipping and tariffs didn’t pose additional obstacles to getting product to market.

Here in New Zealand, there’s plenty to look local for. At the end of 2020, Distilled Spirits Aotearoa was negotiating the New Zealand Whisky Guidelines on the premise of creating regulation to protect and nurture the development of collaborative and supportive industry.

The formal statement reads: “Distilled Spirits Aotearoa has developed a standard for whisky producers in New Zealand, in order to protect, promote and grow our industry. The aim of these definitions is to ensure that New Zealand is recognised as a premium, quality producing country, whilst allowing for the creativity which defines us.”

This is perhaps the most significant progress step for New Zealand whisky producers and retailers, as it will help define a category that has until now, been wide open for interpretation. While there will no doubt continue to be discussion and formal feedback processes as the guidelines are adopted and then moved into legislation, it will help existing distillers and new distillers to enter into the category well-supported.

Internationally, it’s now time

to continue the defining work of local brands, such as Thomson and Cardrona, to further extend the awareness and excitement over New Zealand whisky.

Thomson has already been working hard to build the awareness of New Zealand whisky in the international market through its investment in international award participation. International competitions can be costprohibitive for distilleries, especially those that don’t necessarily have importer and distributor relationships in the awards location. The cost of a one-time import license or waiver to get whisky samples across borders can sometimes be at least equal or twice the value of the competition fee but they are a crucial part of placing your product in front of international judges, ambassadors and writers.

Placement in these awards might be as simple as a line in a press release but the long term pay-off is high.

Thomson Whisky has been winning international awards since 2014, while Cardrona Distillery picked up their first ‘Best New Zealand Single Malt 12 years and under’ medal in 2020. Recognition of the category is a significant step forward as more of our whisky makes itself known offshore, which leads to further demand and distribution. Recently The Whisky Exchange – known as the world’s largest specialist whisky store and based in the UK, contracted a shipment from Thomson Whisky, while Cardrona Distillery is available in Harrods.

For on- and off-premise, there’s all of a sudden a bigger New Zealand whisky story to tell than just a single brand.

This effect was used to help boost expansion and consumer understanding of the New Zealand wine industry 20 and 30 years ago and the hope is that a similar big picture story can inspire hospitality venues to shop and stock local, especially given the shelf space that is currently available.

“DISTILLED SPIRITS AOTEAROA HAS DEVELOPED A STANDARD FOR WHISKY PRODUCERS IN NEW ZEALAND, IN ORDER TO PROTECT, PROMOTE AND GROW OUR INDUSTRY”

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 25

whisky

NEW ZEALAND WHISKY GUIDELINES AND DEFINITIONS:

NEW ZEALAND’S BIG, LITTLE SECRET WHISKY WEAPON If six shelf-worthy New Zealand whiskies weren’t enough, fear not. There’s more and more and plenty more where that came from. If you’ve been through Pokeno recently, you’ve possible seen the big sheds that form Pokeno Whisky, due for release in 15-18 months. It’s very unlikely you’ve seen the stockpiles of whisky that Mark and Rosie Izzard have been stashing away on Waiheke Island for the last decade or so. From building a geodesic still by hand, to re-charring and conditioning their own barrels, this soonto-be-released New Zealand whisky brand is handmade with precision and dedication to making the best whisky in the world and is going to make a big impact. I recently had the opportunity to visit and taste just a few barrels from the pile – and it’s a seriously big pile with a serious flavour profile. It’s been a certain sense of shyness and a driving desire for perfection that has kept Waiheke Whisky on a low profile for now, but with plans for the new distillery and tasting room been given consent in early February it won’t be long before these 8, 9 and ten year old barrels will be ready for the world stage.

MORE LOCAL BUZZ In case you’ve missed the memo, there’s no better time to be stuck on a South Pacific island than during a global pandemic unless you are relying on bottle stock, corks and anything to do with packaging your precious malt and getting it to market. One of the challenges facing a number of local suppliers and producers of malt in the last 12 months has been just that – it’s very 26 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

difficult to sell whisky if you don’t have a bottle to put it in or a cork to stop it with.

A short packaging run meant John and Susie Elliot from Lammermoor Distillery in the South Island were able to get 100 or so bottles of their new single malt out just before Christmas. I opened bottle #82 with my fellow The Shout NZ contributor Cameron Douglas MS. A true farm to bottle whisky, it’s matured in French Oak NZ Pinot Noir barrels from Central Otago. Immediately the impact of the dramatic temperature fluctuation is noticeable – for a relatively young spirit it carries a lot of body, which stands up to the punchy flavours given by the pinot cask. I noticed juicy fig, date scones, cherry fruit, star anise and clove. Having sampled some of the other single barrel releases currently aging in the distillery, it’s going to be a very good year for New Zealand whisky.

AWARDS AND MEDALS COVID-19 impact continues to hang and will do for some time. The San Francisco World Spirits competition had to extend its international submissions deadline in order to cope with further shipping slowdowns. Competing in global competitions has been vitally important for New Zealand brands as they have started to make their footprint known overseas. But with those international markets feeling slightly further away, the local awards will become increasingly important, both for on and off-premise and consumers.

The Drammys will be held on the 22-25th of this month, with an expected growth in local market entries. Entries also open for the NZ Spirit Awards this month. ■

1. NEW ZEALAND SINGLE MALT WHISKY SHALL BE DEFINED AS: • Being made exclusively from 100% malted cereal grain, water and yeast.

• Substitutions to malted barley grain must be clearly stated on the front label i.e. Single Malt Rye Whisky.

• Batch distilled in copper pot stills.

• Mashed, fermented, distilled, matured and bottled in New Zealand.

• Colouring may be added for the purpose of consistency and then only natural colouring (E150a) may be used.

• Distilled in a single distillery.

• No additional enzymes may be added or used beyond what is already naturally occurring in the grain.

• Maximum distillation of 94.8% alcohol by volume so the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production.

• Matured in wooden casks of maximum 700 litres for not less than two years.

• Any packaging reflecting an age statement must state the age of the youngest whisky contained therein where age is the time the whisky has been matured in cask.

• Bottled at a minimum of 40% alcohol by volume.

2. NEW ZEALAND WHISKY INCLUDING VATTED/BLENDED MALT, BLENDED WHISKY, GRAIN WHISKY SHALL BE DEFINED AS: • Mashed, fermented, distilled, matured and bottled in New Zealand.

• Vatted malt may only contain New Zealand Single Malts.

• New Zealand Blended Whisky may contain only New Zealand Malt Whisky and Grain Whisky.

• All of the fermentable sugars must be derived from cereal grain, enzymes permitted.

• Colouring may be added for the purpose of consistency and then only natural colouring (E150a) may be used.

• Maximum distillation of 94.8% alcohol by volume so the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production.

• Matured in wooden casks of maximum 700 litres for not less than two years.

• Any packaging reflecting an age statement must state the age of the youngest whisky contained therein where age is the time the whisky has been matured in cask.

• Bottled at a minimum of 40% alcohol by volume.

• Only whisky, as defined in these rules, can be called ‘New Zealand Whisky’. Whisky imported to and bottled in New Zealand cannot be labelled as ‘New Zealand Whisky’.

The final regulations were passed in February.

on-premise

Love Not Lost SPOTLIGHT ON A LOCAL:

As the hospitality industry continues to bounce back from the upheaval of last year, The Shout NZ is dedicated to supporting Kiwi locals.

s

erving up “damn fine” soul food, cocktails and craft beer, Love Not Lost in Wellington’s Courtney Quarter is a must-visit late-night lounge bar. Owner Benji Irvine shares an insight into the soulful styles of his new Allen Street venue.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE LOVE NOT LOST AND ITS ATMOSPHERE? We’re a comfortable lounge bar open for casual dining and drinks seven days a week, 12pm-3am, although on Mondays and Sundays we run a limited menu to give our kitchen staff a rest. It’s a very relaxed atmosphere and we tend to play blues and soul the majority of the time, although given the right crowd, we’re not afraid to get a bit outrageous. During the weekend we have DJs from 10pm playing a variety of genres - house, techno, drum and bass etc.

Kitting the place out with a bunch of couches was a great decision because not only are they super-comfy to sit and drink a cocktail on, they’re great to collapse into if you’re having a boogie later at night and need to give your legs a rest. They’re also very moveable, so we can easily make space for a dance floor when the need arises.

HOW DO YOU ENSURE THAT LOVE NOT LOST STANDS OUT FROM THE CROWD? I would say our décor, standard of service and product. Décor-wise, we’re still constantly adding things and switching stuff around (a friend once told me that a good bar is never finished) but the fact that 75% of the seating is nice leather couches that we purchased off the internet certainly makes an impression the moment you walk up the steps. My

sister designed our logo and painted the mural on the wall, so there’s a nice homely touch there as well. We plan to get her to do a lot more art around the place in time.

Service-wise, we’re pretty laid back but our service and product knowledge is on point. Between myself and the first two staff members we hired alone there’s almost 30 years’ experience behind the bar. This contributes to us being able to consistently produce quality cocktails, no matter what you ask for. We also have 10 taps that have a pretty consistent rotation of awesome craft beer. The food is banging too - simple but really delicious.

Our chef spent a bit of time working in New Orleans, so soul food is right up his alley.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO ABOUT THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY IN 2021?

Hopefully being able to welcome foreigners into the country again in some form or other. Tourists are pretty crucial to our industry, not having as many around is certainly a blow. People on working holiday visas are also a massive pool to draw from in terms of staffing, so it would be nice to have them back!

WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR WHEN HIRING STAFF FOR YOUR VENUE? Attitude and initiative is key. You can teach anybody how to make cocktails, wait tables, pour wine, cook food etc. All of that is teachable given enough time. What you can’t teach is attitude and work ethic.

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP TIPS FOR BEING A GREAT BARTENDER? • Whether you’re mixing a cocktail, or you’re off duty and watching someone else mix one, don’t judge.

There’s a million ways to make any cocktail based on a million different variables. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that the way you do things or have been taught is the only way.

• Save the bar flare for parties, unless it’s actively going to contribute to someone getting their drink quicker.

• Do the crappy jobs, it’s character building.

• Say yes to as many things as you can. Go to as many tastings/trainings as possible- even if the rep has scheduled it before 2pm.

• And mix up your shake every once and a while. If you always do it the same way, you’re much more likely to get repetitive strain injury. ■ THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 27

F O T I R I E SP

a k d o v

H T G N I G N LE

L A H C

It may not be as gigantic as gin, but the vodka category holds its own in New Zealand, writes spirits expert Tash McGill.

i

f there’s one thing certain, people are drinking differently and challenging the old ideas we’ve had about the provenance of spirits, techniques and ingredients especially in the last 12 months. Yet, amongst huge growth in gin in the last 10 years, vodka is still an expanding market in both production and consumption, dominating up to 32% of the global spirits market.

28 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

WHERE IS THE GROWTH COMING FROM? The volume of spirit-based drinks available for consumption here in New Zealand has risen between 5.8-6% year-on-year since 2018, making it the largest growth sector in the alcohol industry. In 2020, the overall spirits market growth hit 16.4% according to Hancock’s Wines and Spirits, with gin finally topping the table as New Zealand’s highestselling spirit. Within that, the vodka category experienced 4.9% growth.

“VODKA IS STILL AN EXPANDING MARKET IN BOTH PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION.”

vodka

“PREMIUM VODKA SALES HAVE BEEN INCREASING AND SLOWLY TAKING NEW ZEALAND VODKA WITH IT.” ANGUS MACDONALD, BRAND MANAGER FOR HANCOCK’S WINES AND SPIRITS. While some of the growth can be attributed to new international products hitting the market, there’s been an increase in local distilleries and new RTD products adding to the volume of spirits being made and sold in New Zealand.

Traditionally, vodka is frequently one of the base spirits a distillery might produce from its early days as it’s quicker than whisky or rum, but slightly more involved than gin depending on the raw ingredients you use. It’s also forgiving, as the spirit pursues mouthfeel, structure and clarity of flavour rather than a distinctive palate profile.

To get that purity and clarity that comes from removing almost everything, vodka has traditionally been distilled three to 10 times for purity, refining flavour for mouthfeel and texture.

Angus MacDonald, Brand Manager for Hancock’s Wines and Spirits, suggests price point is a significant factor in vodka sales, which haven’t necessarily responded to premiumisation in the same way as gin. “You still get the likes of premium vodka, e.g. Grey Goose or New Zealand’s Broken Shed doing relatively well, but the bulk of the product sold is at a lower price point of around $39.99 retail,” he says. “Consumers are less likely to pay for expensive vodka but people are wanting more quality over quantity, so the premium vodka sales have been increasing and slowly taking New Zealand vodka with it.”

INTERNATIONAL LUXURIES One of the long-lasting impacts of COVID-19 and 2020 lockdown was the increase in online spirits sales (with some off-premise sales growth estimates ranging from 650-1800% during the

first lockdown) at the same time as international imports were struggling to make it to our shores, with some wholesalers reporting up to 60% less stock on hand.

Anything new and international has almost become a luxury, such as Suntory’s Haku Vodka which has been gaining traction in New Zealand and is made according to the vision of Shinjiro Torii, the original founder of the House of Suntory.

As a 20-year-old, Shinjiro opened a liquor store, selling imported wines in 1899. By 1923, he built and opened the Yamazaki Distillery and launched his first whisky just five years later. The House of Suntory now includes multiple distilleries and has expanded its global footprint, purchasing Beam Ltd to create Beam Suntory in 2011.

Yes, some of the world’s biggest American whisky brands are owned by a Japanese company.

Shinjiro left a legacy of driving ambition,

masterful craftsmanship – known as monozokuri - an excellence in production and making things and a desire to bring quintessential Japanese spirits to the world.

Haku is also made from rice that is fermented with rice koji which contains a mould unique to Japan. The nose is soft, well-rounded and has an element of floral sweetness that comes from the rice. In the mouth, it has excellent texture, developing into a full complex flavour that is again sweet, but also refined. The finish is smooth, clean and elegant, leaving a hint of sweetness again.

Haku Vodka

INNOVATION AND INVENTION On an international and local stage, it’s exciting to see this kind of invention and innovation within the vodka category, which has too long been left behind.

Relatively free of rules and regulations, there is a broad range of core ingredients and finishing techniques available for New Zealand THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 29

vodka

distillers to pursue. Our high quality and unique range of water sources also provide a premium ingredient from the beginning.

With products like the White Sheep Sheep’s Milk vodka receiving local awards, the vodka category is left wide open for creativity and international expansion. New Zealand vodka has historically been a highly successful export product with brands such as Broken Shed vodka turning over tens of millions of dollars each year, following in the footsteps of the 42 Below juggernaut.

NEW ZEALAND NEW The ongoing RTD surge in growth continues as the ever-present hunt for ‘healthier’ beverage options that are either low-calorie or low-alcohol continues to push people into drinking alternatives (for more, see pgs 12-15). Within this category, new RTD brands are continuing to expand the consumer palate for vodka beyond classic soda and lime. Think lemon myrtle, black tea and lime or green tea and apple. This is turn is pushing onpremise offerings to re-engage with vodka cocktails. Cool, clean and refreshing – vodka is a great launching pad for lighter, flavours.

30 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

HIGHLIGHTING TASTE AND CONSUMER EDUCATION While whisky, gin and beer flights are easy to find or attend, educating customers on their choice of vodka is a market yet to be delved into but one ripe for the plucking as local consumers turn to local products more and more.

The market and demand for grain-based vodka in New Zealand continues to grow and provides a unique opportunity for on-premise customer experiences.

If the average consumer considers vodka as the no-taste additive for a boozy buzz, then exploring sheep’s milk and grain-based vodkas presents a flavour rocketship to explore.

Grain-based vodka produces a sweeter, more cereal flavour profile that can marry well with more robust flavours, making it a perfect, complex and fun vodka to experiment with in original cocktails. In the United Kingdom, New Zealand exporter of single-grain vodka, Cardrona Distillery, is currently hosting a single-grain vodka cocktail competition, to highlight the unique characteristics of the product.

It’s worthwhile extending your premium vodka range beyond the typical brand leaders here – think single-grain, locallysourced and delicately balanced sipping vodkas that entice the imagination of consumers and bartenders alike. Present them in a tasting flight with matching signature serves or cocktails to encourage customers beyond their preconceptions. ■

winter beer and cider

warming DARK AND

With the cold months creeping up on us, beer writer Denise Garland shares the winter brews that Kiwis turn to for warmth and comfort.

w

inter is the season in which we crave warmth and comfort from cooler temperatures and the wilder weather outside. We cook roasts, rug up in front of the heater and take long, hot showers. And in that search for warmth, drinkers are also more inclined to reach for a richer, more full-bodied alcoholic beverage than they are during the warmer months of the year.

STOUT AND PORTER For beer drinkers, winter has long been synonymous with the Stout and Porter beer styles. These styles have roasted malts which impart flavours of toast and coffee and chocolate, and they are often a little higher in alcohol.

North End, based in Waikanae, sees the sales of its Iron Sands Oat Rye Stout jump during the winter months. The beer is a warming 6% ABV, with the oats and rye malt giving it a full, velvety body; the mouth is complemented by flavours of dark chocolate, toast and coffee.

Brewer Kieran Haslett-Moore says he wanted to brew an English-style oatmeal stout with unique characters, as he approaches beer styles from a food perspective.

“I think attributes that western cultures assign to ‘warming’ are higher alcohol levels and a focus on malt flavours. I invariably come at beer from the food side of the world, so beers that are big and bold enough to stand up to hearty winter foods are always welcome in the colder months,” he says, recommending mushrooms, lentils and red meat as great food companions to his stout.

While North End’s Iron Sands has its fans who drink it year-round, HaslettMoore says the beer leaps to become the company’s fifth-biggest seller during winter; its fifth-biggest, because year-round drinkers prefer the pilsner, two pale ales and IPA the brewery has to offer – even in the cooler weather.

The owner of Three Boys Brewery in Christchurch, Ralph Bungard, agrees that beer drinkers still crave the lighter, easier-drinking styles Three Boys Brewery’s Oyster Stout in the colder months..

Denise Garland is a journalist with a love of all things beer. She has been writing about beer for a decade and was the winner of the 2019 Brewers Guild Beer Media Award. She has previously worked in hospitality in Christchurch, Wellington and Edinburgh. Denise home brews – though not as often as she’d like – and has been a judge in several home brew and commercial beer competitions.

“COMPLEXITY IS A KEY ELEMENT THAT IS IMPORTANT IN A GOOD WINTER BEER.” THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 31

winter beer and cider The oysters add a seaside character to the stout with a slight salty flavour.

This Three Boys beer tastes on the more savoury spectrum of the style, thanks to molasses and toasted malt characters.

Oysters – surprise, surprise – pair perfectly with this beer, as does a strong cheddar and fresh bread.

Despite being synonymous with winter, stouts are quite a versatile beer.

A bottle or can is a refreshing drop when drunk straight out of the fridge, while if they’re left to warm for a short time before pouring into a glass, the richer flavours become more apparent and the mouthfeel becomes smoother and more velvety.

The same effect can be achieved by warming the glass in your hands when the beer is poured from keg, while drinking a stout from a hand pull beer engine offers a creamier texture to the brew, and really accentuates the complex aromas the style is known for.

Three Boys Brewery owner Ralph Bungard

“Our biggest selling beers even in winter remain our Pilsner, IPA and our Hazy Alpha Juice in 2020 – like most successful brewers, you need those core beers just to crank all year around.”

But Three Boys also releases its seasonal Oyster Stout (6.5% ABV) in time for winter every year to much fanfare.

“The Oyster Stout is a star though – no doubt about that,” Bungard says. ”And we have people who are genuinely distraught when we run out each year.”

The stout is brewed using Bluff oysters - a seasonal ingredient which Bungard describes as “a real southern, seasonal treat”. The style is a historical one, with reports of oyster shells being used to clarify beer in the late 1800s, before brewers started adding the oysters themselves to stouts – the first account being here in New Zealand in 1929. But, by the time Three Boys began brewing in Christchurch in the mid-2000s, the style had allbut disappeared.

“I have always been a fan of the history and evolution of beer styles and I was aware that traditional Oyster Stouts had disappeared from the brewing landscape,” Bungard says. “To combine a genuinely seasonal ingredient with being the first in the world to relaunch a traditional style was a real dream for us.”

BELGIAN-STYLE Complexity is a key element that is important in a good winter beer, and when searching for that you can’t go wrong with dark Belgian-style beers.

The Oud Bruin is a style which is generally around 7-8% ABV, and has flavours of tart cherries, prunes, dried fruit and coffee. It tends to have a great balance between sweet and sour, with the tartness cutting through the richer characters to make it quite a drinkable beer despite its alcohol strength. It also ages well, with a bottle - such as Garage Project’s Carillon – likely to become even more complex over a period of several years.

Meanwhile, the Quadrupel takes things up a notch further, tending to be a bit stronger at around 10% (or even higher). This Belgian strong style is all about sweetness and richness, with flavours of dates, chocolate, raisins and caramel. The fruity esters from the yeast balances out the style’s sweetness, and is enjoyable to drink and savour all on its own.

North End is well-known for its Belgian-style beers, and its Visitation Quadrupel is one of the few examples of this true winter warmer available in the country.

North End’s Visitation Quadruple

32 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

“MUCH LIKE A RED WINE DOES, SOME CIDERS CAN HAVE HIGH TANNINS THAT MAKE IT A GREAT AND COMPLEX DRINK IN ALL SEASONS.” JODY SCOTT, ZEFFER CIDER IN WINTER? While dark beers scream winter, ciders are generally considered a summer drop here in New Zealand. The co-owner of Peckham’s cidery in Upper Moutere, Caroline Peckham, believes that has a lot to do with the mass-produced cider available in Aotearoa being watereddown apple wines, meaning there is less fruit in every glass and, therefore, they are lighter in flavour and texture.

Peckham says that perception means her company experiences a downturn in sales during winter – despite using true cider apples and traditional cider making processes.

“Because ciders are seen as summer drinks, sales are higher in summer.

Typically for us, August sales might be just 40% of peak summer sales in December,” she says.

But Peckham says that doesn’t stop them from promoting cider as a yearround beverage, and even focusing on making good winter-drinking options.

Zeffer’s Jody Scott

winter beer and cider

Zeffer Winter Plum Crumble Cider

“True cider apples are mostly quite tannic and not high in acid,” she says.

“Picked ripe, fermented slowly and allowed to mature properly, these can generate a cider with a body that doesn’t need to be highly carbonated and chilled.

“We do take winter cider creation a step further. By concentrating apple juice we can create a higher ABV, a very rich and warming cider which we can then blend back to increase the overall ‘warmth’ of a cider.”

Peckham’s Solstice is described as a warming, mid-winter celebration cider made from Kingston Black apples. The juice is caramelised over a wood fire, with the wild fermentation of the cider providing flavours of caramel, apricots, a warming alcohol finish and a tasty balance between sweetness and tartness.

Peckham’s also makes a cider that’s blended with local bush honey called The Bee’s Knees, and while not specifically marketed as a winter cider, the strong notes of red apple skins, honey, tart grapes and the hint of beeswax are incredibly warming, as is its high ABV. The head cider maker at Zeffer in Hawke’s Bay, Jody Scott, also chooses to produce something special for winter.

In 2020, Zeffer released a Winter Plum Crumble Cider as a limited seasonal release, and it proved so popular, that they’re bringing it back for the coldest months of 2021.

Based on its popular year-round Apple Crumple Cider, which has notes of cinnamon and vanilla, Scott says some additional tweaks make Zeffer’s plum version an ideal winter drop.

“The dark fruits give the cider an added layer of complexity and a refreshing burst of acid that creates a nice twist on our already popular apple crumble cider,” he says. “Much like a red wine does, some ciders can have high tannins that make it a great and complex drink in all seasons.

If the cider has been infused, spices are a great way to summon up body and structure in a warming way”

While Scott agrees that New Zealanders primarily regard cider as a summer drink, he is beginning to see perceptions change.

“Often bars would remove a cider tap in winter and replace it with a dark beer. That is happening less and less and people want to enjoy their favourite ciders all year.

“It will always be more popular in summer I expect...but as we look to make seasonal cider, or mulled ciders. people are trying all year now.”

MULLING IT OVER Mulled cider is certainly an area for growth and experimentation in the sector, considering cider is, essentially, an apple wine. Zeffer has produced some of its own mulled cider recipes for customers to try, and it’s an easy way for bars and restaurants to offer their patrons something warming - yet a bit special - on the coldest of winter days.

Mulled beer is not unheard of either, with Barley Wines warmed with spices popular in some British bars, and heavilyfruited styles being made into Glühbier at German Christmas markets.

While most of New Zealand doesn’t get cold enough to really warrant hospitality businesses offering mulled beer and cider en masse, experimentation with more with fruits and spices is surely a way for the country’s brewers, cider makers and even publicans to add a little something special to their winter offerings. ■

THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021 33

last round

OWNING A LIQUOR FRANCHISE: ADVICE FROM A

Liquorland CEO Brendon Lawry’s story is featured in the new book New Zealand’s Top Franchise Leaders, Secrets Revealed. Establishing himself as a franchise leader after more than 20 years in the FMCG and liquor industries, Lawry shares his tips for future franchise owners and operators in this excerpt.

HOW DOES A LIQUOR FRANCHISE DIFFER FROM FRANCHISES IN OTHER NICHES? My deduction is that the success factors don’t differ that much. At its core Liquorland, and I think most business (retailing and service industries in particular), are in the people game. Our customers, competitors, suppliers, staff and franchisees are all people, and the better you understand people, the better you understand business.

One of the key differences in our sector is the legislation specific to alcohol. This is the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act. We treat a liquor licence as a privilege rather than a right. Selling alcohol comes with a huge responsibility and this needs to be respected. While it’s true that the grand majority of Kiwis have a healthy relationship with alcohol, some sections of society don’t and that’s why the retail sale of alcohol needs to be taken very seriously. As a consequence, we have a number of policies, procedures and 34 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2021

CEO mention the customer in the first few sentences of our discussion, it’s unlikely that they would fit the type of person we’re looking for.

It’s a preparedness to care enough to properly listen. That’s how you can spot the good retailers against the rest. They understand what it takes to enable their staff to be great, and they can articulate what they need to be able to offer the customer the experience they deserve.

costs that are unique to liquor stores and liquor franchises.

The traditional liquor retail sector including bottle stores and supermarkets is also incredibly competitive. There are well over 1000 retail outlets in New Zealand selling alcohol.

AS A LEADING FRANCHISE CEO, WHAT IS THE MOST COMMON QUESTION YOU ARE ASKED, AND HOW DO YOU ANSWER IT? I’m often asked, “How much money will I make?” to which I generally answer, “That depends how much effort you put in.”

There’s no denying our business is hard and competitive, particularly because our product offer is generic, meaning you can buy Heineken and Chivas Regal in almost every bottle store in the country.

But what we know is that the more you focus on, understand and look after your people including franchisees, customers, suppliers and even competitors, the better you will do.

WHAT SPECIFIC TRAITS DO YOU LOOK FOR IN POTENTIAL FRANCHISEES? We look primarily for franchisees who get the people game. We want them to understand that success will come as a result of the experience you create for the customer, and how you look after and manage other stakeholders including staff, suppliers and authorities.

It sometimes sounds a bit clichéd, but it’s the size of your heart and the strength of your character that matters, and that’s definitely true in a retail environment.

Having talked to so many retailers over the years and walked the floor with so many owners, you can quickly get a sense of people’s commitment to the customer experience. If potential franchisees don’t

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WHO IS CONSIDERING INVESTING IN A LIQUOR FRANCHISE? Do your homework. Don’t just look at the model, the cost, the financials and the historic performance of the business. Talk to the franchisor and make sure that their approach, strategy, business plan and importantly their character and integrity match yours. Talk to current franchisees and not just the ones the franchisor tells you to talk to. Lastly, remember it’s a people game, and success comes from your people.

If you don’t like dealing with people, franchising is probably not for you. ■

Brendon Lawry, CEO, Liquorland

Edited excerpt from New Zealand’s Top Franchise Leaders, Secrets Revealed

by Pete Burdon.

Published by Global Publishing Group.

RRP $29.95.

Liquor news straight to your inbox FOR THE LATEST DRINKS NEWS, SUBSCRIBE NOW TO THE SHOUT NEW ZEALAND’S E-NEWSLETTER

FULL PAGE ADVERT

www.theshout.co.nz

HAZE beautifully sessionable!

WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ