Retail Beauty Autumn 2023

STYLE and SUBSTANCE

THE ONGOING FRENCH SKINCARE BOOM

TRENDS WITH BENEFITS

TRANSLATING TRENDS INTO INNOVATION

DEEP DIVE

Cleansing

Fundamentals

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The Covid-19 pandemic supercharged three major categories - skincare, wellness and baby care. Biophysics is a key player across all of the booming sectors through its award-winning Skin Physics skincare brand, Rapid Loss, one of Australia’s most recognised meal replacement brands, and Avo Baby, a unique baby care brand which uses Australian Certified Organic Avocado Oil.

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The Main Event

Anyone that know me knows I love an event. They can be a great way to connect with colleagues, build relationships, and gain new insights and skills related to the retail beauty industry. Even better than an event is a conference, which is like one giant, long event on steroids! And I’m super excited there are so many back on the calendar.

The ones lined up for the first half of the year that I’ll be attending include the Australian Retailers Association (ARA) Leaders Forum 2023, Life Instyle, a premium retail trade event, The Green Edit Beauty Breakfast Summit and The Green Edit Brand Showcase, displaying the latest and greatest in clean beauty, Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference and Trade Exhibition (APP2023), the largest pharmacy conference in the southern hemisphere and Naturally Good, your go-to expo for all things natural, organic and healthy.

Conferences play a crucial role in many industries and are a great way to share knowledge, network, aid professional development and learn about new business ideas, perspectives and approaches.

In the lead up to these trade events, I have had the pleasure of catching up with organic makeup artist Cathy Tolpigin, Founder and Curator of The Green Edit, who shares why she is so passionate about working with better-for-you beauty, lifestyle and wellness brands, page 40.

Meanwhile, we have rounded up everything you need to know about the four-day APP2023 conference, page 36, held by The Pharmacy Guild of Australia.

Indeed, it is well and truly time for a dose of disruption for the pharmacy industry. Some pharmacies are quickly becoming beauty, health and wellness destinations and even backed by innovative technologies in some cases. Find out more on page 20.

One pharmacy chain excelling is this area is Priceline – there are now more than eight million members in Priceline’s Sister Club,

making it Australia’s largest health and beauty loyalty program. I caught up the Priceline beauty buyers, page 26, to discover what’s on their radar right now.

Also in this jam-packed issue is our interview with Arnaud Husser of French Beauty Co, who talks about the ongoing boom in French skincare, page 14.

Mintel’s Sharon Kwek outlines strategies that beauty brands in APAC can employ to stay relevant and competitive in the market, page 24, while Wizz Selvey, founder and CEO of Wizz&Co, highlights three mistakes brands make when trading with retailers, page 30.

We continue our focus on fragrance with an interview with Louise Turner, who has created fragrances for the likes of luxury powerhouses including Carolina Herrera, Tom Ford, Chloe, Dior, Gucci, Mugler, Jimmy Choo and more, page 44, and Rohan Widdison, CEO of New Laboratories, shares the fragrances that will dominate new beauty products in 2023, page 48.

There’s so much more in this issue, I thoroughly hope you enjoy reading it, as much as we loved creating it.

I look forward to bumping into you, our readers, at one of the upcoming conferences, if not all of them, to share knowledge, network, enhance professional development, be exposed to new ideas and work on collaborations and partnerships. And of course, to sharing a drink with you at the afterparty!

“Conferences play a crucial role in many industries and are a great way to share knowledge, network, aid professional development and learn about new business ideas, perspectives and approaches.”

Contributors

ASSOCIATE EDITOR BUSINESS FEATURES

ELISABETH KING

Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty

CLAYTON ILOLAHIA

Clayton works in communication and evaluation for Fragrances of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

TASHI JADE BELL

Tashi Jade Bell is a self-taught MUA with a passion for colour, who first discovered the magic of makeup and skincare in 2010 when she visited Sephora in NYC. She began creating beauty and fashion content in 2013, beginning on YouTube, and it wasn’t long before she was a part-time content creator. Beauty has also worked as a form of therapy for the former lawyer, who previously specialised in private equity and venture capital for over 10 years, but was forced to retire from her stressful career due to treatment resistant depression and anxiety. Tashi Jade Bell now uses her social media presence, which currently has over 75,000 followers on Instagram @paint_ bytashijadebell, as a form of art therapy. Tashi Jade Bell is also a co-host of @thebeautybusinesspodcast.

MICHAEL BROWN

Growing up as a dancer, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra. Michael is also co-host of the Nova podcast Skinfluence.

NIKITA PAPAS

An established PR and Communications Director, Nikita Papas has garnered 15+ years of experience within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. As a qualified and experienced business marketer, he understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive brand journey. A visionary content producer, Nikita is renowned for creating persuasive copy, and seamless visual narratives that ignite desire, engagement, and ultimate brand success. He connects with the most enviable beauty and fashion brands, media tastemakers, influencers, and creative agencies.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED

Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

PRIMED FOR

GROWTH

Biophysics Refreshes

Skin Physics and Rides the Wellness and Baby Care Waves with Rapid Loss and Avo Baby

by Elisabeth King

The Covid-19 pandemic supercharged three major categories - skincare, wellness and baby care.

Biophysics is a key player across all of the booming sectors through its award-winning Skin Physics skincare brand, Rapid Loss, one of Australia’s most recognised meal replacement brands, and Avo Baby, a unique baby care brand which uses Australian Certified Organic Avocado Oil. The last 12 to 24 months has been a period of strategic activity, says Tania Thistlethwaite, Brand and Marketing Manager for Biophysics, to maximise the potential of each of our brands as demand increases and to fuel growth.

Skin Physics made a lasting impact on the anti-ageing skincare category when it launched in 2007. The brand’s leading points-of-difference of first-to-market active ingredients, world class stem cell technology and extensive clinical background in phototherapy and retinol quickly built a strong and motivated customer base. By late 2018, Skin Physics was in the top 8 per cent of best-performing skincare brands in Priceline. The iconic Dragon’s Blood range became a top contender in the pharmacy chain, mainly through its Facial Sculpting Gel, dubbed the liquid facelift, and Ultra Plumping Night Cream.

NEW LOOK FOR TRUSTED MARKET FAVOURITE/ ENTERING THE MICROBIOME SPACE

The Dragon’s Blood range continues to go from strength-tostrength, but the time had come to modernise the look to enhance on-shelf appeal and attract new consumers, says Thistlethwaite. “The repackaging and refreshed look of the Dragon’s Blood range targets women of all ages from Millennials addressing the first signs of ageing to those aged 45-plus who are looking to maintain a more youthful appearance”.

The Facial Sculpting Gel retains its original benchmark formula for one compelling reason - it works. Skin-firming and plumping collagen peptides have been added to the Ultra Plumping Night Cream, Deep Wrinkle Filler and Radiance Daily Moisturiser. The 3-in-1 Advanced Treatment Cleanser with superior foaming action and Retinol Sleep Serum complete the Dragon’s Blood lineup for a round-the-clock skin routine that restores the skin’s youthful vitality.

Skin Physics has moved beyond its pure-play antiageing focus and also offers preventative and protecting products suitable for Gen Zers in their teens and 20s and Millennials. Ten months ago, the brand entered one of the most exciting areas of today’s skincare market with the Biome Balance range.

In recent years, there has been a surge of interest in the skincare sector centred on balancing the microbiome - the bacteria-rich layer that sits atop the surface of the skin and helps to maintain its health.

Prebiotics and probiotics are the hero actives in products formulated to target the microbiome and they are the core ingredients of Skin Physics Biome Balance range of ground-breaking SKUs - Probiotic Overnight Repair Cream, Prebiotic Multi Cleansing Oil, Probiotic Daily Moisturising Gel and Intensive Pro Renewal Serum.

The spotlight on microbiome-based skincare intensified during the Covid-19 crisis as consumers battled an increased incidence of eczema, acne and premature ageing caused by stress. Major multinationals such as Unilever and Shiseido have snapped up brands using probiotics to balance the microbiome over the past two years and the future is even more promising, says Mintel, the global market research company. Nearly 50 per cent of consumers in the US are interested in trying probiotic skincare such as Skin Physics Biome Balance, with Millennials at the forefront closely followed by women aged 50-plus.

MEAL REPLACEMENT MARKET SKEWS TOWARDS WELLNESS FOR RAPID GROWTH

As consumers lives become more hectic, the meal replacement market is riding the wave.

According to Future Market Insights, the global meal replacements market reached sales of US12.5 billion in 2022 and is predicted to reach US$23.2 billion by 2032.

Biophysics acquired Rapid Loss, one of the first and best-known meal replacement brands in Australia, in 2018. From the get-go, the marketing focus was switched from the purely weight loss sector to encompass the wellness category.

“The Rapid Loss range has been extended to include snacks as well as shakes to underline the message that our products are not just for weight loss, but can play a leading part in helping those with busy lifestyles to maintain their weight easily. We have also tracked the high protein trend in many foods and drinks, and have debuted a new high protein offering to appeal to this rapidly growing market,” says Thistlethwaite.

AVO BABY UNIQUE TO BABY CARE MARKET

Some skincare trends are momentary, while others have long-lasting momentum. The global active ingredient market is still driven by the consumer desire for results and the Covid-19 crisis fast-tracked the use of dermatologist-recommended actives such as Vitamin C with good reason. It is the most studied antioxidant used in skincare and brightens, hydrates and protects the skin against pollution.

Skin Physics Oxygen-C delivers the goods with a total skincare care range from cleansing to moisturising and a trio of masks, including Vitamin C Purifying Clay Mask, which won the Best New Face Mask gong at the prestigious 2022 Beauty Heaven Glosscar awards.

The global and Australian anti-ageing skincare markets continue to grow strongly and consumer interest remains at an all-time high. For consumers looking for high performance anti-ageing products, Skin Physics has built up a major following for its Advance Superlift range. A solutions-oriented routine that lifts, tightens and smooths the skin.

The global plant-based baby care products market was valued at US$24.5 billion in 2021 and is expected to reach US$80.2 billion by 2031, reports Allied Market Research. The Australian natural and organic baby care market is also booming as parents seek out products for their children that minimise the use of chemicals and nourish their skin naturally.

Biophysics launched Avo Baby in August 2021 to meet this soaring demand. The brand is unique to the baby care category, says Thistlethwaite. “The hero ingredient is Certified Organic Australian Avocado Oil which supplies pure natural nourishment to bub’s delicate skin. Currently there are four SKUs - Gentle Hair & Body Wash, Nourishing Everyday Lotion, Soothing Barrier Balm and Massage oil. But the brand has performed very well since launch and we are planning an extension of the range later in the year”.

The Covid-19 pandemic also escalated consumer preference for Australian-made products and the buy local trend has gained unstoppable momentum. All three of Biophysics core brands are made in Australia and New Zealand and deliver the benefits that Aussie brands have long been famous for - high quality, sciencebacked, value, efficacy and ease-of-use. ■

For more information visit www.biophysicsgroup.com

Style&

Substance

Retail Beauty Talks to Arnaud Husser of French Beauty Co About the Ongoing Boom in French Skincare and Expansion Plans

by Elisabeth King

France’s position as the world leader in cosmetics was rubberstamped again following a record year for exports in 2022. Revenues surged 18.8 per cent last year to 19.2 billion euros (AUD$29.62 billion) compared to 2021, reveals FEBEA, the French professional cosmetics association. So strong is the global appeal of French beauty products that cosmetics are the third largest contributor to France’s trade surplus behind aeronautics and wines and spirits.

The three pillars fuelling “Made in France” beauty are fragrance, facial skincare and makeup, all of which enjoyed double digit growth in 2022. Style and sophistication play a great part in the dominant position of French beauty, but R&D, technology and expertise are the real heroes, especially in skincare. The constant ability of French brands and companies to meet new consumer expectations, including sustainability and environmentally friendly products, has also been a major springboard of continuing global success.

French pharmacy skincare brands are enjoying explosive growth worldwide, especially in China. Nielsen named L’Oréal-owned La Roche-Posay as the fastest-growing dermocosmetic brand in the world in 2022. Few people have a more in-depth knowledge of the sector than Arnaud Husser, Managing Director of French Beauty Co.

EXPERT APPROACH/ GO-TO DESTINATION FOR FRENCH BEAUTY

After completing my MBA in 2003, I entered the French pharmacy industry as Regional Manager for South America for Uriage Dermatological Laboratories, a leading dermatologist-recommended skincare brand which incorporates thermal spring water from the French Alps, says Husser. “Three years later, I became Regional Director for Asia, dealing with major markets such as China, South Korea and Japan.”

Husser moved to Australia in 2010 to set up his own business and leverage his knowledge of French pharmacy skincare. “With my team, I launched the Bioderma brand as a distributor and managed its growth for 10 years before giving its back to NAOS, one of the largest independent French beauty companies, when it opened an Australian office in 2020.”

Under Husser’s stewardship, Australians became avid fans of Bioderma’s world-first micellar cleansing water, Sensibio H2O, which has become a cult

product globally with one bottle sold every single second. Supported by more than 30,000 dermatologists worldwide, Bioderma is also recommended by pharmacies and used by makeup artists all over the world. The brand’s other ranges, including Cicabio for repair and Hydrabio for hydration, have also enjoyed solid success.

Following the handover of Bioderma to NAOS, we developed French Beauty Co as the Australian destination for French beauty in March 2020, says Husser. “As an online retail platform, it really took off during the Covid-19 pandemic. The orders flowed in and we doubled our sales. There are several categories across 22 brands to cover the majority of beauty needs.

“In addition to French pharmacy brands such as Eau Thermale Avene, Embryolisse and Biafine, we also have cosmeceutical brands such as Filorga, Etat Pur and SVR. The natural sector is represented by globally-recognised brands such as Nuxe and Cattier and consumers can choose from leading haircare brands such as Christophe Robin and Klorane and fragrances from Bon Parfumeur and Juliette Has A Gun. We have also diversified into accessories such as Paris-based Bachca hairbrushes and sexual wellness devices with the Get Frenchie brand.”

DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTH/ NEW BRANDS SPEARHEAD EXPANSION

French pharmacy skincare brands have been going from strength-to-strength in Australia, averaging annual growth of 10 per cent in recent years, notes Husser. “Today, leading brands such as Eau Thermale Avene, La Roche-Posay and Embryolisse represent a sector that is second only to the natural skincare category. The French Beauty Co grew by 80 per cent in FY 2021.”

Overseas, makeup artists are trained in cosmetology because of the strong bond between skincare and makeup. Makeup artists all over the world swear by Embryolisse, the French brand founded by a leading dermatologist in the 1950s. Its cult product is Lait-Creme Concentre, which has been dubbed the 24-hour miracle cream. Not only is it a very effective moisturiser, it also restores glow and acts as a primer and makeup remover.

We re-launched Embryolisse in Australia in early 2021, expanding distribution to Chemist Warehouse and Adore Beauty, says Husser. “The brand has a strong following with makeup artists and influencers in Australia and enjoyed growth of 190 per cent in FY 2022. Last year also saw the launch of Embryolisse Beauty Oil, a multi-purpose dry oil for hair, face and body. Embryolisse Artist Secret Lash Booster was another successful launch. Designed to boost growth of eyelashes and eyebrow hair, it is a great favourite of beauty editors and rated as one of the best kept secrets in the beauty industry.”

French Beauty Co also debuted the Laboratoire SVR skincare range in 2022. The cosmeceutical brand was created by visionary pharmacists Simone and Robert Veret in the early 1960s and is globally recognised for incorporating high concentrations of active ingredients suitable for all types of skin, including sensitive. The allencompassing lineup covers all bases from Anti-Redness Micellar Water to its acclaimed vitamin anti-ageing serums. “Ampoules are a speciality and the SVR Ampoule C AntiOx has done very well,” says Husser.

PHYGITAL APPROACH/ TOP QUALITY AT AFFORDABLE PRICES

Even though French Beauty Co has performed strongly in the digital space, Husser believes in a “phygital” approach - a blend of offline and online purchasing. “I think e-commerce has changed the landscape, as it gives convenience to consumers and opportunities for brands to quickly trial concepts and products. However, many offline businesses have played catch-up and now offer consumers the option to try offline as well as re-purchase online. Additionally, the cost structure has evolved making online less attractive.”

Dermocosmetics and expert-inspired brands will continue to see rapid growth as consumers seek prevention-overcure products and minimalism. According to Euromonitor International, many consumers have shifted from a beautyoriented approach to an increased emphasis on skin health. Dermocosmetic brands also riff off the clean beauty trend, in addition to their therapeutic appeal. “French pharmacy brands are the leaders of the category and they also offer high quality products at affordable prices,” adds Husser.

LIFESTYLE DIVERSIFICATION

French Beauty Co is poised to enter new categories with new brands big and small and the company’s website was given a re-skin in early March, says Husser. “We want to welcome Australian consumers into the coveted French lifestyle with homewares, sexual wellness and beauty devices and hair accessory brands such as Bachca. Men have not been forgotten and we recently launched Monsieur Barbier, the natural and vegan men’s grooming range. One of our next launches will be Thalgo, the well-known marine-based skincare brand. April will be all about our new pop-up store in Melbourne and we are also looking at nutricosmetic supplements.”

A natural segue because dermocosmetics can also act as a bridgehead for beauty-from-within supplements. French luxe beauty brand, Caudalie, has followed this trend very successfully to spark increased growth and offer an extended skincare routine. ■

https://frenchbeautyco.com.au

“Today, leading brands such as Eau Thermale Avene, La Roche-Posay and Embryolisse represent a sector that is second only to the natural skincare category.”

AUSSIE HAIRCARE BRAND STRAAND SCORES US$2 MILLION INVESTMENT

Most brands take time to attract investors but Straand, Australia’s first microbiome-focused haircare brand, has inked a deal with one of the world’s most active beauty investment players within its first six months.

The vegan, natural and cruelty-free brand debuted last July with a quartet of prebiotic scalp balancings SKUs - The Crown Cleanse, The Crown Fix serum, The Head Doctor conditioning treatment and The Miracle Worker scrub - and a range of accessories such as the Microfibre Hair Towel and the Exfoliating Scalp Brush.

Straand has scored a US$2 million investment from Unilever Ventures, the corporate venture capital arm of consumer goods giant Unilever. Founded in 2002, the company focuses on beauty and wellness brands and commerce-enabling technologies. Current investments include another high-flying Australian brand, Frank Body, Sachajuan, Beauty Bakerie, Trinny London and Kopari.

There’s plenty of corporate grunt behind Straand to explain its rapid rise. The brand’s co-founders include Sarah Hamilton, the co-founder of Sand & Sky skincare, CEO Jeremy Hunt, an expert in cross-border trade with China, Tim Brown, a specialist in strategy and execution in the Chinese market, Nick Morris, a veteran of local natural beauty manufacturing, and Meagan Pate, a brand strategist who has worked for M.A.C Cosmetics and Bauer Media.

Straand has major plans in the immediate future and is priming to enter the US market through its own DTC website and Amazon. Southeast Asia will follow in quick succession and the brand is planning to debut in Europe in April.

In Australia, Straand is available through its own dedicated websitewww.straand.com.au - and launched on Adore Beauty last October.

KERING DISRUPTS LUXURY BEAUTY WITH NEW IN-HOUSE DIVISION

Kering, the world’s second largest luxury goods group, has been tracking the rise of luxury beauty and has been closely watching rival LVMH pull in billions of dollars a year from cosmetics and perfumes.

Valued at 73.3 billion euros (AUD$113.18 billion), Kering’s portfolio includes “magic” fashion brands such as Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen and trending jewellers Pomellato and Qeelin.

As beauty industry observers know, the majority of Kering’s beauty licenses are held by Coty. The Gucci fragrance business is worth US$500 million in sales for Coty and the multinational has the lucrative license until 2028.

Kering has announced the launch of a new in-house beauty division called Kering Beauté following several months of rumours and speculation. It’s not the

The investment in Straand will help pave the way for the brand’s expansion in the US, UK, Europe and China, said Rachel Harris, Partner at Unilever Ventures.

“Dandruff and broader scalp concerns are a significant and much maligned condition globally. There has been limited innovation in the scalp health category for many years and it is ripe for disruption. Straand stood out with its microbiomefocused formulations, bold branding, youthful appeal and affordable positioning.”

first time the luxury leader has dipped its toes in beauty. The multinational operated a beauty division until the mid-2000s centred on its YSL Beauté brand. The license was sold to L’Oréal in 2008 for over US$1 billion and the world’s number one beauty company has been stoking the brand to global stardom ever since.

With the YSL Beauté and Gucci beauty and fragrance licenses off-limits for now, Kering Beauté will concentrate on developing beauty and fragrance lines for leading brands such as Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Pomellato.

The multinational has appointed Raffaella Cornaggia as the CEO of Kering Beauté. The Italian-born executive has worked for Chanel and joined The Estée Lauder Companies in 2008. Over the past 20 years, she has held senior positions at M.A.C Cosmetics, Aerin Beauty, Tom Ford Beauty and the core Estee Lauder brand in the US and worldwide.

Based in Paris, Cornaggia will report to Jean-Francois Palus, Group Managing Director of Kering.

Kering is owned by the billionaire Pinault family and is heavily dependent on Gucci, which brings in more than 50 per cent of its annual revenues. The launch of Kering Beauté allows the company to maximise the potential of its other leading brands in a similar strategy to the expansion it pursued in eyewear.

The chairman and CEO of Kering is Francois-Henri Pinault, who has been married to actress Salma Hayek since 2009. He also had a relationship with supermodel Linda Evangelista in the mid2000s and is the father of her son, Augustin James Evangelista.

Raffaella Cornaggia has been appointed CEO of Kering Beauté.

TOP 10 GLOBAL BEAUTY COMPANIES FOR 2022

The global beauty industry has faced many challenges over the past couple of years from the Covid-19 pandemic to rising inflation. But the dynamism and innovation of the major players has more than lived up to task.

The industry as a whole contributes US$100 billion to the worldwide economy and a significant chunk of it comes from the top 10 companies who dominate the beauty and personal care space.

Let’s look at the sales performances of the top ranked multinationals for 2022.

L’ORÉAL’S Q4 AND ANNUAL SALES OUTPERFORM FORECASTS

1) L’Oréal - US$34 billion - The French giant covers the beauty spectrum from mass to prestige with bestselling brands such as L’Oréal Paris, Garnier, Maybelline New York and Lancôme.

2) Unilever - US$26 billion - The European multinational owns major food and household brands, but its beauty and personal care portfolio contains global names such as Dove, Sunsilk, Tresemme, Dermalogica and Murad.

3) The Estée Lauder Companies

- US$16 billion - The US pure-play beauty company offers 25 prestige brands, including Estée Lauder, Clinique, M.A.C, La Mer, Jo Malone London and Aveda.

4) Procter & Gamble - US$14.4 billion

- Like Unilever, the US multinational has fingers in other lucrative sectors, but its beauty and personal care division includes mega brands like Gillette, Olay, Head & Shoulders, Old Spice, Pantene and Herbal Essences.

5) Shiseido - US$9 billion - The Japanese titan has sold off a clutch of brands recently, including bareMinerals and Laura Mercier, to re-focus on high-end brands such as Cle de Peau, the Shiseido core brand,

NARS and Drunk Elephant, which the company acquired for US$845 million in 2019.

6) Bath & Body Works - US$7.9 billion

- In 2021, L Brands split from Victoria’s Secret and started to operate solely as Bath & Body Works. The company has thrived and its fragrances, body lotions and home fragrances enjoyed 22 per cent growth in 2022.

7) Johnson & Johnson - US$7.7 billion - A major presence in the beauty and personal care category, J&J’s powerhouse brands include Aveeno, Neutrogena. OGX and Johnson’s babycare.

8) LVMH - US$7.5 billion - Fashion may be the major focus for the world’s largest luxury goods group, but beauty contributes a lot to the bottom line through luxe brands such as Christian Dior, Guerlain and Benefit Cosmetics.

9) Natura & Co - US$7.1 billion - The Brazilian giant scooped up Avon, The Body Shop and Aesop to add to its home-grown beauty business to become a truly global corporation.

10) Beiersdorf - US$7 billion - The parent company of Nivea also owns La Prairie, Eucerin and Coppertone and has made skincare an engine of growth for its e-commerce ambitions.

L’Oréal Paris Elvive Hyaluron Plump haircare range, Maybelline New York Vinyl Ink and Garnier Vitamin C Brightening Serum.

Call up the name L’Oréal and under the “People Also Ask” heading there’s a question that’s barely credible to anyone in the beauty industry - Is L’Oréal doing well?

The multinational’s revenues in the fourth quarter surpassed the description robust. Total sales in the last three months of 2022 to December 31st reached 10.32 billion euros (AUD$15.94 billion) - a 13.5 percent gain in reported terms compared to the same period a year earlier.

A final push that took revenues at the world’s number one beauty company to 38.26 billion euros (AUD$59.09 billion) for the calendar year - an increase of 23.4 per cent compared to pre-Covid 2019.

All of L’Oréal’s divisions were bullet performers. “Outstanding performances” in China, India and Brazil fuelled 10.1 per cent like-for-like gains for the Professional Products division, including L’Oréal Professionnel and Redken. Kerastase sales exceeded the magic one billion euros (AUD1.544 billion) for the year for the first time to take the division’s total sales for the year to 4.476 billion euros (AUD$6.91 billion).

L’Oréal’s Consumer Products division, the multinational’s biggest, enjoyed its best performance in 20 years in 2022 to reach revenues of 14,021 billion euros (AUD$21.65 billion). Major hits included the

The L’Oréal Luxe division again outclassed the worldwide prestige beauty market with sales climbing 10.2 per cent to 14.638 billion euros (AUD$22.61 billion), driven by best-selling fragrances such as La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme, Libre by YSL Beauty and new launches like Prada Paradoxe. The division’s skincare offerings from brands such as Lancôme and Helena Rubinstein grew at three times the rate of the overall skincare market. Prestige makeup was also a winner, thanks to YSL Beauty and Urban Decay.

The Active Cosmetics division - La Roche-Posay, CeraVe, SkinCeuticals - turned in another powerful result with a growth rate for the year of 21.4 per cent to 5.124 billion euros (AUD$7.91 billion), as SkinCeuticals doubled sales and La Roche-Posay was the fastest-growing brand in the dermocosmetic category worldwide.

We achieved a remarkable performance this year, said Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L’Oréal. “Comparable growth vs 2019 accelerated quarter after quarter. Our balanced growth across divisions and regions once again demonstrates the relevance of our multipolar model.

“We have emerged stronger from 2022 and reinforced our position as the world’s leading beauty company. Mindful of the current uncertainties, we remain ambitious for the future, optimistic about the outlook for the beauty market, and confident in our ability to keep outperforming the market and achieve another year of growth in sales and profits in 2023.”

Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L’Oréal.

CHINA’S COVID CRISIS DENTS ESTÉE LAUDER’S Q2 SALES

Hainan has become a massive duty-free destination over the past 10 years. Travel retail sales in the so-called “Hawaii of China” have ballooned from US$317 million in 2012 to US$7.9 billion in 2021.

Beauty is one of the main pillars of sales growth in Hainan and Estée Lauder has a leading position. For example, last October saw the opening of Haikou International Duty Free City, the largest dutyfree space in the world at 280,000 square metres and many of the major beauty multinationals have grabbed a large slice of the action.

The Covid-19 restrictions in China late last year resulted in a downturn for Hainan’s onwards-and-upwards progress and the effects flowed on to the Q2 results of The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC).

The multinational has reported a 17 per cent year-on-year decline in its second quarter to US$4.6 billion - down from US$5.54 billion during the same period last year.

Skincare, ELC’s biggest category, saw sales drop to US$2.38 billion in Q2 - down from US$3.6 billion in the previous year. The Ordinary and Bobbi Brown posted sales growth but these gains were offset by lower sales for Estee Lauder, La Mer, Dr Jart+ and Clinique.

Makeup sales also dipped over Q2 to US$1.268 billion by contrast to US$1.386 billion for the same period last year. M.A.C. bucked the trend by recording double digit growth over the quarter but the Estee Lauder and Tom Ford Beauty brands suffered drops in sales.

AUSTRALIAN MAKEUP MARKET TO GROW 4.6 PER CENT OVER NEXT THREE YEARS

Makeup sales worldwide are climbing back following the peak of the Covid-19 pandemic. On home turf, the Australian makeup market is expected to experience a CAGR of 4.6 per cent through to 2026, reveals a GlobalData reportAustralian Makeup - Market Assessment and Forecasts.

The lip category is expected to register the fastest growth, followed by nail care. With most Covid-19 restrictions out of the way, Australians are engaging in more out-of-home activities, said Bobby Verghese, consumer analyst at GlobalData. “As more consumers turn into bargain hunters, retailers offering discounts, special offers and private labels are set to benefit.”

The per capita expenditure (PCE) on makeup in Australia has risen significantly over the past five years, reveals the data tracker. Exceeding the global average of $3.90 by a major margin, the makeup

Fragrance revenues were also hit in Q2, topping out at US$775 million as opposed to US$799 million a year previously. But hero performers such as Le Labo and Tom Ford Beauty both posted double digit growth in the second quarter.

Haircare sales edged up to US$182 million by contrast to US$180 million last year. Aveda was particularly popular in Europe, the Middle East and Africa and buoyed the category as a whole.

ELC has forecast a decrease of between 5 per cent and 7 per cent for its full year 2023 outlook, but Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of ELC, remains confident.

“We delivered on our expectations for the second quarter of fiscal 2023, despite the incremental pressure of Covid-19 in China in December. Many developed and emerging markets around the world outperformed to realise our organic sales growth outlook. Fragrance excelled globally, while makeup prospered in a great number of markets, as our brands are realising the promise of the category’s renaissance as usage occasions resume”.

Freda acknowledged that ELC would be lowering its 2023 outlook because of disruptions in Hainan, but expects a return to overall growth by the fourth quarter because of the resumption of international travel by Chinese consumers and strong performances in Western Europe, the Asia/ Pacific region and key emerging markets.

The health and wellness trend accelerated by the Covid-19 pandemic will spur demand for clean-label cosmetics with natural and organic ingredients, added Verghese.

“The increasing eco-conscious post1990s Millennial and Gen Z cohorts will propel the adoption of sustainable ingredients and packaging, including refillable makeup containers.”

GlobalData was also gung-ho about the South Korean makeup market, which is predicted to grow by a CAGR of 5 per cent to US$2.5 billion by 2026.

The face makeup category is expected to enjoy the fastest growth over the forecast period, followed by lip colours.

PCE in Australia rose for $10.30 in 2016 to $15.20 in 2021.

By 2026, says GlobalData, Australian per capita spending on makeup is predicted to reach $17.70.

Multinationals hold the top ranking in the Australian makeup market. The Estée Lauder Companies, L’Oréal and Revlon were the top three companies by value in 2021, with Revlon and Maybelline New York leading the brand charge.

As the Asian style leader in cosmetics, South Korea’s per capita spend on makeup rose from US$9.60 in 2016 to US$18.10 in 2021. Through to 2026, this figure is expected to increase to US$23.90.

The two homegrown beauty giantsAmorepacific and LG Household & Health care - and the Estée Lauder Companies were the top three companies in the South Korean makeup market in 2021. While the leading brands were Sulwhasoo and The Face Shop.

Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of ELC.

PRICELINE PHARMACY’S SISTER CLUB REACHES 8 MILLION MEMBERS

In October 2020, Priceline Pharmacy debuted its new look Sister Club loyalty program.

Australia’s largest health and beauty loyalty program boasted 7 million members only 15 months ago, prior to members being offered a higher level of awards, prizes, personalisation and more.

The Sister Club is a goldmine for franchisees because members spend significantly more than non-members.

LOTTE WINS MELBOURNE AIRPORT DUTY FREE CONCESSION

Lotte Duty Free has won the highly profitable contract to operate the duty-free shops at Melbourne Airport.

The South Korean travel retail giant, with global sales of $US4.86 billion in 2021, beat off strong competition to secure the 10-year concession and will take over from current operator, Dufry, at the end of May. The move marks the first time Melbourne Airport has changed duty free operators in 30 years.

Lotte has big plans for its new venture. The current total shopping area in the Melbourne international terminal is 3592 square metres. But in a bid to reach annual sales of US$243 million, Lotte intends to expand facilities to 5800 square metres.

Other major international travel retailers operators in the Australia and New Zealand market include DFS Group, Heinemann, Dufry, ARI and Lagardere, making the Oceania region very competitive. Prior to the Covid-19 pandemic, the trans-Tasman duty-free market was worth close to US$1 billion.

Melbourne ranks second only to Singapore’s Changi Airport in Lotte’s global network and the company aims to become the largest travel retailer in ANZ by next year.

International traffic at Melbourne Airport is already back to 70 per cent of pre-Covid levels with higher figures predicted by the end of the year.

Beauty is a major money-spinner globally in travel retail, alongside fashion, wine and spirits and watches and jewellery, for both international and Australian brands. Lotte clearly demonstrated the strong connection with the opening of its multi-storey Sydney CBD and Da Nang in Vietnam stores last year.

The revamped program has worked like a charm and Priceline Pharmacy recently signed up its 8 millionth member at Priceline Pharmacy Ashgrove in Brisbane.

The Sister Club turned 21 two years ago and has gone from strength-to-strength. The evidence is clear - Sister Club members shop more frequently at Priceline and spend more during each visit, said Andrew Vidler, General Manager of Priceline Pharmacy.

“They are the most loyal of customers you’ll find in retail pharmacy, yet no other pharmacy brand can offer franchisees access to a customer base like it.”

In the second half of this year, Lotte is on track to open stores in Changi and Hanoi airports to boost its current network of 13 stores in six overseas countries.

Lotte entered the ANZ market in 2018, following the acquisition of five duty-free shops from JR Duty Free. Over the past five years, the company has opened stores in Brisbane, Darwin, Canberra and Wellington airports.

According to Kim Ju-nam, CEO of Lotte Duty Free - “Lotte Duty Free’s Melbourne Airport store will be a focal point for further overseas expansion and recovery. With successful operation of the store, Lotte Duty Free will step up to be a leading travel retailer in the Oceania region.”

TIME FOR A DOSE OF DISRUPTION

There was a time when the traditional pharmacy was a rather transactional experience. You’d duck in to get your script filled, maybe have a quick chat with the pharmacist, then duck out again. But now, some pharmacies are quickly becoming beauty, health and wellness destinations and even backed by innovative technologies in some cases.

Danny Lattouf

Terry White Chemmart

For chemists, competition is heating up from outside of the industry, as more retailers are now introducing health and wellness into their offering. Last year, Amazon acquired US healthcare network One Medical for US$3.9 billion.

“Healthcare is high on the list of experiences that need reinvention,” said Neil Lindsay, SVP of Amazon Health Services. “We love inventing, to make what should be easy, easier and want to be one of the companies which helps dramatically improve the healthcare experience.

In addition, while pharmacy has traditionally been slow to embrace technology, online players focused on efficiency and personalisation have launched into the space. Think men’s online healthcare provider Pilot or reproductive health brand Kin Fertility, which created Australia’s first contraceptive pill subscription service.

TIME FOR TECH

Accelerated by Covid, some chemists are finally introducing technology to offer better efficiency and convenience for their customers, many who are now comfortable using telehealth services, but still need to enter a physical store to pick up their medication. In 2021, Terry White Chemmart partnered with Swoop Aero to launch drone medical deliveries to regional customers.

Last year, Priceline unveiled a new tech-led store concept, with self-serve checkouts, a dedicated click-and-collect area and a robotic dispensary, giving pharmacists the opportunity to actually talk to customers about their health concerns.

As an article from Deloitte pointed out: “Traditional retail pharmacies will likely struggle to fend off digital entrants when it comes to the cost and efficiency of dispensing and delivering medications. They can learn from them to think about how to use data and technology to create a hyperpersonalised and human-centred consumer experience.”

A PILLAR OF THE COMMUNITY

Of course, during the peak of the pandemic, all pharmacies experienced increased footfall as they began offering Covid tests and vaccinations. Now that the world is moving on, the challenge for pharmacies is to continue engaging those customers, particularly given the rise of price cutting within the industry.

As a direct way of fighting against the increasing category discount model, a couple of years ago Terry White Chemmart launched “Real Chemistry” to highlight the unique relationship between pharmacists and their community.

At their best, pharmacists have the ability to develop tight knit relationships with their communities. After all, pharmacy is a highly trusted profession, serving a wide cross-section of people at various stages of their lives, and often at their most vulnerable. One customer might be dealing with the

lice that their kids caught from school, while another may be struggling with fertility issues or a terminal illness.

The answer could also lie in services, from diabetes consultations to self-service health checks for diabetes, BMI, blood pressure and more.

In November last year, the NSW Government announced a major reform that expands the number of vaccinations pharmacies can administer and a trial where pharmacists can prescribe medication for a range of conditions.

“While some in the primary care sector have firm views on the role of pharmacists, their positive contribution to the management of the Covid-19 pandemic has demonstrated that they are able to deliver more for their communities,” NSW Health Minister Brad Hazzard said.

BEAUTY TO THE FRONT

In recent years, beauty has been considered a form of “self care” and while more traditional beauty retailers are entering the health and wellness space – there are some chemists which have rolled our beauty offerings.

In 2018, pharmacy giant Chemist Warehouse quietly launched its own beauty brand, Ultra, which is now being rolled out across Australia and New Zealand. Meanwhile, Priceline is currently in the process of launching beautyonly stores in its network, complete with make-up services and lash applications. Similarly, Boots in the UK launched a reimagining of its stores in 2020, with a revamped beauty hall and an extensive wellness department. One area, known as the Boots Edit, showcases trend-based beauty products and as a result, the reimagined offering has attracted new aspirational brands to the retailer, including cult brands Fenty Beauty and The Ordinary.

For many of these pharmacy brands, leaning into beauty is all about offering customers a more accessible and inclusive experience, unlike more aspirational retailers.

“Whether you’re coming back from yoga, the beach or just popping into the supermarket, we are your destination for premium beauty, whenever and wherever you want to shop,” said Anthony Pecora, general manager of Ultra Beauty. “We like to bring Australians all of their favourite brands and products that fit a variety of budgets.”

Indeed, it is well and truly time for a dose of disruption for the pharmacy industry, and while some are slowly embracing technology and new product categories, it will be interesting to see how the sector keeps up with the consumer in the future. Imagine a world where pharmacies become destinations where 3D printers are used in-store, same-day delivery is offered by driverless cars and automation and AI algorithms help a pharmacist’s responsibilities. Watch this space. ■

Danny Lattouf is chief strategy officer and partner at retail strategy agency, The General Store. Contact: danny.

Boots Edit showcases cult brands such as Fenty Beauty

WHY SKIN CARE DEVICES ARE HAVING A moment

By Sneha Varghese

The skin care devices market is projected to be valued at US$23.8 billion ($33.3 billion) in 2023 and is estimated to grow to US$101.5 billion ($142.1 billion) by 2033. The market is anticipated to record a significant compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 15.6 per cent during the forecast period.

The growing demand for skin care devices due to the growing disposable income, the standard of living, and electronic goods is enhancing the market share. The increasing number of beauty experts, skin disorders, and end-use industries result in the adoption of skin care devices. Moreover, a few more factors fueling the skin care devices market share, such as the growing demand for spinning discs, non-invasive procedures to speedily regenerate skin cells, and increasing millennial consumers.

Skincare companies aim to innovate devices to provide better skin treatment and prevent skin problems to boost market expansion. However, the increasing adoption of skin care devices to treat skin problems such as scabies, warts, fungal infection, and psoriasis also propel market opportunities. The growing number of cosmetic procedures such as skin lightening, tightening, body contouring, and rejuvenation in the cosmetic industry greatly contributes to impelling the skin care devices market growth.

The increasing adoption of skin care devices to maintain daily skincare routine drives the market share. Several top skin care companies are there providing skin care devices to consumers in a kit to maintain healthy and hydrated skin, thus increasing the market opportunities.

The key players provide beauty skin care devices at a reasonable cost to maintain skin daily. However, consumers’ adoption of skin care devices for their sensitive, dull, and wrinkled skin is likely to bolster the skin care devices market size during the forecast period.

In the past few years, the DIY beauty trend has attracted consumers to avoid visits to clinics, salons, and spas. The growing DIY promotes consumers to maintain their skin health at home without going anywhere. The adoption of DIY reduces the usage of chemical products and encourages organic products and better devices on the e-commerce platform. To avoid the spread of harmful in-toxicity to the skin, consumers shift their preferences towards DIY beauty and consequently increasing the sales of skin care devices.

The demand for skin care devices is growing. Here’s why.

SENIOR CONSULTANT, CONSUMER PRODUCTS & GOODS, FOOD AND BEVERAGE, FUTURE MARKET INSIGHTS

RISING POPULARITY OF LED THERAPY TO BOOST THE SALES OF SKIN CARE DEVICES

The growing popularity of LED therapy among end users to treat various skin acne, infections, and wrinkles is giving rise to skin care devices market opportunities. However, the rising cosmetic procedures such as skin tightening, rejuvenation, liposuction, and body contouring by models to look young and fit are also driving the market growth. In addition, other procedures such as spot and scar reduction and tattoos removal are also increasing market trends during the forecast period.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, around 50 million US people are affected with skin

WHO IS WINNING?

acne yearly. Furthermore, 7.5 million people are affected with psoriasis, and 9,500 people are diagnosed with skin cancer annually in the US. On the other hand, in 2020, according to the America Society of Plastic Surgeons, nearly 15.6 million people adopted cosmetic procedures in the US. Among these, 13.2 million were minimally invasive, and 2.3 million were cosmetic surgical procedures.

ACNE TREATMENT DEVICES TO REMAIN THE TOP-SELLING CATEGORY

Based on product type, the market is categorised into cleansing devices, anti-ageing devices, skin texture & tone enhancement devices, and acne treatment devices. The acne treatment devices segment leads the global market by recording a CAGR of 15.9 per cent during the forecast period. These devices help to reduce oil production, treat bacteria and clean up skin are estimated to increase the adoption of acne treatment devices. In the historical period, acne treatment devices contributed a CAGR of 14.5 per cent from 2017 to 2022.

On the other side, cleansing devices account for a significant global market share. Adopting cleansing devices is perceived as the best solution for efficient and effortless skin cleaning. Moreover,

these cleansing devices also work as multifunctional products to provide massage along with skin cleansing. These are a few factors that facilitated growth in the adoption of cleansing devices during the forecast period.

KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM THE SKIN CARE DEVICES MARKET

• The skin care devices market is expected to have a valuation of US$ 101.5 billion ($142.1 billion) in by 2033

• With a CAGR of 15.6 per cent, the market for skin care devices is increasing during the forecast period.

• The market in the United States is anticipated to grow at a CAGR of 10.6 per cent through 2033.

• With a CAGR of 13.8 per cent, the UK market is likely to uplift during the forecast period significantly.

• The China market is estimated to grow at a CAGR of 24.4 per cent over the forecast period.

• Acne treatment devices are the global market leader, with a CAGR of 15.9 per cent during the projection period.

• With a CAGR of 16.2 per cent throughout the projection period, the modern trade category dominates the worldwide market.

The market is consolidated by the number of present players globally during the forecast period. The players are innovating and launching skincare devices to prevent the skin damage and other issues to attract consumers’ attention and are also advancing the market growth. These players dive deeply into the market and come out with the unique ideas to expand their business.

The prominent vendors are fuelling the market growth by adopting several marketing methodologies such as mergers, collaborations, acquisitions, and partnerships. In the coming years, these players will launch advanced skincare devices which are estimated to bolster the market share. ■

Sneha Varghese – has over six years’ experience in the market research and consulting industry, and has worked on more than 200 research assignments pertaining to Consumer Retail Goods. www.futuremarketinsights.com

The growing popularity of LED therapy among end users to treat various skin acne, infections, and wrinkles is giving rise to skin care devices market opportunities.

Translating

trends into innovation

How beauty brands in APAC can stay relevant.

Today’s consumers want the beauty brands they use to source ingredients ethically, are transparent and authentic, appealing to the senses, and offer products with high efficacy. With this in mind, how can brands find the right balance of these trends while still delivering good value to their discerning consumers?

In 2023, there will be a shift from herd mentality to “me mentality” and consumers will choose what works for them more than what is popular on social media platforms. Aside from that, consumers of beauty brands and services today are more discerning and aware than they ever were before.

In Thailand, younger consumers called “Beauty Activists” aged 25-34, are speaking out and their voices are resonant. They prioritise social and environmental values, challenge traditional social norms, and voice their opinions loudly on social media.

This group accounts for 41 per cent of Thai beauty consumers, and over half (53 per cent) of them say it is important to buy beauty products from ethical brands. They also speak out against brands that they feel are not acting responsibly.

By Sharon Kwek DIRECTOR OF CONSULTING, BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE, SOUTH APAC, AT MINTEL.

In Malaysia, consumers want to protect their skin from long-term exposure to air pollution. Among the products they use to address this concern are cleansers to remove harmful particles from the skin and anti-pollution face masks.

Consumers have different things that they want and look for from beauty brands. What is hot this month may not necessarily be so in the next, if the brand does not listen to its consumers.

Beauty brands can continue to stay relevant by tuning in to what their consumers want and need and here is what consumers are talking about:

Over a third of Beauty Activists (44 per cent) will call out beauty campaigns they don’t like, and half say it’s necessary to stop supporting brands whose behaviour and campaign do not align with their beliefs.

ETHICAL BEAUTY

Ethical claims found momentum and gained traction in Asia, both in North and South APAC. In Indonesia, 63 per cent of consumers say they are prepared to boycott companies that behave unethically. One of the ways in which brands can show its authenticity is to support and collaborate with local communities in transparent and sustainable ways.

Plant-based clean beauty is one of the most effective ways for brands to connect with consumers and remain relevant in the region’s beauty landscape. The cosmetic supply chain is not just green and natural but clean. Brands are increasingly proving their credibility with science and being more transparent with their manufacturing processes because today, consumers are aware if a brand is just greenwashing or being true to its sustainability commitments.

AR AND VR

Young people are now being exposed early to online beauty content and this is a double-edged sword. For brands, it is an opportunity to share their content through social media platforms and augmented and virtual reality (AR and VR). These features also boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic when people became afraid to use testers for colour cosmetics in stores. L’Oréal was one of the companies that first jumped on the AR and VR bandwagon. In 2019, L’Oréal’s AR arm Modi Face collaborated with AS Watson Group to introduce its virtual makeup try-on service on the Watsons mobile app. The same application is now available in L’Oréal official stores on the Shopee app. In Malaysia, AmorePacific (Laneige) and the L’Oréal Group (NYX, Maybelline New York, and L’Oréal Paris) have introduced their own AR tools in Malaysia.

Other ways to communicate with consumers online and provide them with immersive experiences are through Mixed Reality Tours and Virtual Try-on.

A-BEAUTY

There are many innovations and trends from South Korea, Japan, Thailand, and China, but Australia has a more laidback approach and the government has stringent regulations (which ensure product quality and safety) to appeal to the sensibilities of local consumers. Australian beauty relies on natural, safe, and organic ingredients and appeals to those with uncomplicated beauty routines that address present concerns and issues, skin dryness, instead of future ones like ageing. Australian beauty sees a compound annual growth rate of 6.1 per cent for facial skincare, 4.4 per cent for body care, and 3.2 per cent for sun care over the next five years.

So what can beauty brands learn from A-beauty? The harsh Australian environment lends a hardiness to plant life that translates into botanicals with extremely high active properties. These botanicals have been used for hair- and skincare by native people for thousands of years. Brands can focus on the diversity and resilience of these plants and the properties and benefits of their extracts.

MODERNISED TRADITIONS

Another trend in beauty is modernising heritage ingredients and techniques with new packaging and formats so they would appeal to younger consumers. This modernisation of beauty is a means to keep a culture alive even into the future and spread it throughout the world. In Japan, 76 per cent of consumers agree that their heritage is an important part of their identity.

WHAT WE THINK

Global trends continue to evolve and integrate, which makes it increasingly important for brands to consider the steps they take to evaluate trends in relation to their brand and value as well as their core target audience. Interpreting a trend and applying it to a product is one thing, but being able to connect with beauty consumers in ways that authentically speak to want they need and want, will be key. ■

TOP LEFT: AS Watson collaborated with L’Oréal’s ModiFace for AI-powered skincare solutions in Asia. LEFT: Sharon Kwek, Director of Consulting, Beauty and Personal Care, South APAC, at Mintel.

In Japan, 76 per cent of consumers agree that their heritage is an important part of their identity.

Minenssey is a skincare brand that uses natural Australian ingredients.

THE PRICELINE BEAUTY BUYERS

Secret Product Picks

Business Category Manager – Cosmetics, Fragrance & Beauty Accessories

I love a dewy, glowy finish, and this multi-use face gloss primes, hydrates and luminises my skin. You can use this product alone or under makeup as a primer, but I layer over foundation for a glossy finish!

Allsaints Concrete Rain

EDP 100ml RRP $125.00

The name says it all! This unisex and complex juice really does smells like fresh rain as it hits the concrete, with top notes of silver rain and black lily. This is my go-to signature scent.

Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge

RRP $19.99

The Miracle Complexion Sponge is a must have in my makeup bag. Whether you use it wet or dry, it seamlessly blends your liquid or powder products into your skin. Your complexion looks instantly radiant!

Since first opening in 1982 at Highpoint Shopping Centre, Priceline has expanded to more than 470 stores nationally. There are more than eight million members in Priceline’s Sister Club, making it Australia’s largest health and beauty loyalty program. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the ultimate influencers – the Priceline beauty buyers – to find out what could be your next favourite product.

MICHELLE O’SHEA

Category Manager –Cosmetics

Australis

This is an oldie but a goodie! The lightweight and buildable powder is a stellar finisher when it comes to setting my makeup for a matte look and ensures nothing will budge throughout the day. It’s an awesome affordable option that delivers a high quality finish. I’m in love with the new package update, it brings a pop of colour to my makeup bag.

Milani Highly Rated Anti-Gravity Mascara

RRP $23.99

I’ve been on a mission to hunt down the best dupes around, and this has got to be my current number one recommendation. It provides killers lashes from the first stroke – think extreme volume, length and lift without clumping or the smudging! It’s the closest thing to lash extensions I’ve found so far.

e.l.f Power Grip Primer with 4% Niacinamide

RRP $24.00

The trade secret to having a flawless makeup finish comes from acing your base with a good primer. This gel-based primer not only preps and smooths your skin to perfection, but also acts as a hydrating moisturiser thanks to key ingredients like hyaluronic acid and 4% niacinamide.

JENNA EDEBOHLS

Fresh and Flawless Powder RRP $15.95

Revlon PhotoReady Rose Glow Face Gloss RRP $29.95

JANICE SENN Category Manager –Skincare

Nip+Fab Hyaluronic Fix Extreme4 Micellar Daily Cleansing Pads RRP $34.99

These pads are infused with all the right active ingredients to help hydrate skin while gently removing makeup, it’s the ultimate timesaver! I love that they’re eco-friendly, being 100% biodegradable

CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser 236ml RRP $14.99

I use this cleanser to remove oil, dirt and makeup at the end of the day and it leaves my skin feeling hydrated and refreshed while strengthening my skin barrier. Ingredients and credibility are important to me – this product is developed by dermatologists and contains three essential ceramides and hyaluronic acid, it’s a no brainer!

The Fix XCramp 30 Tablets RRP $36.99

Gone are the days of addressing crippling pain at that time of the month with strong pain killers and heat packs! The Fix’s supplement range is a game changer for all women who experience periods. They have supplements for bloating, mood and breakouts, but my pick is the XCramp. It’s fantastic that women (finally!) have a natural alternative to relieve period cramps.

CHLOE DAVIDSON Category Manager – Haircare & Grooming

Georgiemane 10 Minute Hair Mask RRP $49.99

Georgiemane is an up-and-coming Australian brand with a fun, no-nonsense approach to haircare. This Australian made vegan hair mask gives dry and damaged hair the love it deserves in just 10 minutes – a perfect addition to your weekly self-care routine.

Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Shampoo and Conditioner RRP $21.99ea

Specifically designed for curly girls, the sulfate-free formula of this range is packed with natural ingredients and certified shea butter to cleanse the hair gently and improve shine while keeping your curls intact. This shampoo and conditioner are one of our bestselling sub ranges, and for good reason!

Got2B Farewell Flyaways Touch Up Brush RRP $20.99

This product is genius… a hair gel applied using a mascarastyle wand to secure flyaways! It’s great to use when you’re going for a slickback style like the off-duty model look. It’s a TikTok favourite and one I personally couldn’t live without – I keep one in my handbag and one in my makeup bag at all times.

BRIGITTE BLOOMFIELD

Category Manager –Fragrance

Versace Dylan Blue EDT 100ml RRP $140.00

I can recognise this scent from a mile away! The juice contains earthy and citrusy olfactory notes like zesty Sicilian lemon and Calabrian bergamot, which instantly transports me to a beautiful summer’s day on a Mediterranean beach! This is the perfect gift idea for your man.

Estee Lauder Beautiful Magnolia EDP 50ml RRP $158.00

In one spritz, this romantic and radiant floral scent will have you hypnotised. With notes of magnolia, rose and cedarwood, this light and airy fragrance is the perfect summer scent.

Billie Eilish Eilish EDP 100ml RRP $96.00

This is my current must-have fragrance! The alluring mix of amber, gourmand, vanilla and cocoa reveals a sweet but woodsy scent - it is truly a fragrance for everyone. The beautiful gold bottle looks stunning on my vanity, and I always get compliments when wearing it day or night.

DisruptorBeauty

When Alex Fevola identified a gap in the market for highly effective, Australian made, affordable beauty products, the savvy makeup artist come businesswoman created her own. Today, the mother-of-four and wife of former professional Australian rules footballer Brendan is well on her way to creating a global beauty powerhouse with her Runway Room Cosmetics range. Retail Beauty finds out more about the best-selling author and burgeoning beauty entrepreneur.

The inception of Runway Room

Alex started Runway Room as a one-stop beauty shop that offered a glamorous, star-like experience for customers, helping them leave feeling transformed and confident. Her passion for beauty and creating a memorable experience for customers led to the success of her business and helped to spread the word about what Runway Room had to offer. As the business grew, Alex identified a gap in the market for Australian-made, affordable beauty products. She took the initiative to develop her own line of products, drawing inspiration from her favourite brands but with a focus on quality ingredients and sustainability.

“The only brands available to stock in your salon were expensive, inflexible and made overseas,” she said. “I decided to develop my own. Inspired by all my favourite products from other brands but mine would be made in Australia. Made ethically with care and careful consideration.”

Authentically Australian

Runway Room is authentically Australian and Alex’s vision is to demystify beauty and provide uncomplicated beauty solutions for everyone, even those who are not makeup-savvy. The business continuously makes conscious choices to better the products, the planet, and customer satisfaction. Customers are increasingly looking for products that are not only effective but also eco-friendly and socially responsible. By prioritising these values, Runway Room appeals to a wide range of customers who care about the impact of their purchasing decisions. “We are all about effortless glam for everyone! We always make conscious choices to better our product, our planet and our customer satisfaction,” Alex said.

Service to retail

Runway Room started out offering a unique service in Australia, which was the ‘Luxe Makeover’ service. As demand for the service grew, Alex opened more stores to meet that demand, and her team expanded to more than 50 people. To complement Runway Room’s

service offering, Alex established new arms of the business, including an Academy to train others in her techniques and a cosmetics line that started with lip products and lashes and eventually expanded to base products. “Now, our focus has shifted from service to product, and we have over 140 SKUs, with stockists across the country and plans to launch in the UK,” Alex said. “While we still offer the ‘Luxe Makeover’ service, our new flagship store will focus more heavily on retail and creating an innovative shopping experience for our customers.”

“Our audience has always been anyone who wants to achieve glowy skin and effortless glam without all the fuss! Simple, uncomplicated beauty routines for EVERYONE!” Alex said. “We have had an overwhelming response to our numerous Pop-Up stores, with sessions booking out within 48 hours announcing them. It’s another guaranteed way of selling out of stock – we always have to replenish our shelves after the first three days – once people try the products for themselves, they are hooked!”

Alex Fevola

Customer loyalty and satisfaction

Having an average rating of 4.5 to 5 stars is a great testament to the quality of the Runway Room products, and this has been generated organically through word of mouth and social media. It’s a great example of the power of building a strong relationship with customers and creating a positive brand experience that inspires loyalty and trust. “We have had very little marketing budget and have relied on our community to spread the word,” Alex said. “Our higher than average conversion rate and our super high customer retention rate speaks for itself - once a customer tries our products, it’s almost guaranteed they’ll return.”

The importance of brand values

Authenticity is key in the beauty industry, and Alex is committed to providing a genuine and transparent experience for all Runway Room customers. By offering ageless and uncomplicated beauty solutions, Alex shows that beauty can be accessible and inclusive for everyone, regardless of age or experience. Runway Room is also committed to being an ethical beauty brand. Alex prioritises sustainable and responsible practices throughout the product development and supply chain, striving for a positive impact on both people and the planet. “I am building a brand

ABOUT ALEX:

that is truly focused on providing a positive and meaningful experience for all Runway Room customers, while also promoting ethical and sustainable practices,” she said.

Social media savvy

Social media has been an effective marketing tool for Runway Room. Alex utilises Live tutorials, which are a fantastic way to engage with the audience and showcase the products in an authentic and interactive way. By providing unedited streams and encouraging followers to engage with her, Alex has created a genuine connection with her customers and built a sense of trust that is invaluable in the beauty industry.

“Every time I host a session, which is a totally unedited stream for my followers to tune into and engage with, it has a huge impact on my sales,” she said. “Literally thousands of units are sold every time.”

Sharing other makeup artists and content creators’ content on Runway Room’s social media platforms is also a smart strategy that has reaped dividends. By collaborating with others in the industry, Alex has been able to broaden her reach and tap into their existing audience, while also building relationships and potentially creating new partnerships. “For a new business, with little marketing budget, this is one of our greatest marketing tools and it has contributed largely to our 50 per cent year on year growth,” she said.

Alex began modelling when she was 14 years old and then found a passion for makeup and photography. She started her own business in makeup and photography specialising in weddings and model portfolios. After building a solid reputation in the industry, she decided to expand. “I wanted to make that hair and makeup service that I had been offering brides and models available for everyone,” she said. “Instead of just booking a blow wave for a special event, why not have a blow wave and make-up? The idea was one location, one appointment and one affordable fee. We were disrupters in the industry, the first to offer all hair, beauty and make up services under one roof. Not just on weekends, but every day of the week. We were also consistent in our standards.” Alex is also a photographer and author. Her first book published was Snapshot: A Portrait of Success and it was a best seller. More recently, she wrote her autobiography, Silver Linings, which was also a best seller – it has sold out three print runs. “As much as I enjoy writing, my passion is make-up,” she said. “My dream is to see Runway become one of Australia’s biggest brands!”

Uncomplicated beauty for ALL

Providing easy-to-use beauty kits and free tutorials has been a great way to make beauty accessible to everyone, regardless of their skill level or experience. “By offering DIY kits and tutorials, Runway Room Cosmetics empowers individuals to take control of their own beauty routines and explore new looks in a fun and low-pressure way,” she said. “We aim to make the process simple and approachable to help reduce the intimidation factor that often comes with trying new beauty products or techniques.” ■

• The Runway Room Cosmetics range has been carefully crafted with the finest ingredients and sophisticated formulas, made in Australia.

• Runway Room’s ethics are of the utmost importance, and the products are packed with naturally derived ingredients and provided in eco friendly packaging where possible.

• The brand uses compostable postage satchels, refillable products, recyclable packaging and Australian manufacturing to ensure quality and ethics.

• All of the products in the range are not tested on animals and mostly vegan-friendly.

• An extensive mineral range is available which is some of the cleanest formulas to be made in Australia.

• Runway Room offers suitable retailers the opportunity to partner with them and stock the Runway Room Cosmetic Line.

To find out more about Runway Room Cosmetics and view the full product range visit: www.runwayroom.com

“I found there was a gap in the market for Australian made, affordable beauty products.”

mistakes

Three brands make when trading with retailers

Want to know how to create purposeful retail partnerships in 2023?

Be proactive in your communication with buyers and retailers.

Overall, buyers want brands that are proactively helping them. They want brands to be looking out for their own business within the retailer, i.e., checking to make sure their product and marketing are all up to date, visiting their products instore, and regularly checking the website, promotions and sales.

Don’t assume your stock will just sell!

Brands must be proactive in their communications and offering when stocked with retailers. There is an assumption with bigger retailers that once you are stocked with them, your products will fly off the shelves, but that isn’t the case. Brands have to be active and think about what they can do to aid the retailer; such as promoting retail partnerships on their own direct-toconsumer channels, and holding events through their physical, digital, and social media communities. Brands must think about what they can do to reach their current customers, new customers and retailers’ customers, so an action plan on how this will be done is very important. Within a trading plan, brands should include new collections, new products and highlight their point of difference, thinking about what can be offered to retailers to give them exclusivity. This is very important for buyers, this can be customer experiences, exclusive products, or exclusive offers, therefore it is very important to think about what the brand can realistically offer them. Think six months ahead and be sure that you can show this six month strategy when meeting with buyers.

When communicating with buyers, brands must be really time aware (as buyers are time-poor), so wherever possible should provide specific and important information to them, with efficient clear communication. Buyers are continually having to work quickly, as they have to react to brands that are performing well and those that aren’t. People in the middle are generally okay, so if you don’t hear from your buyer regularly this isn’t always a bad thing. What you should be looking out for as a brand is that you are hitting your sales target and also matching, if not surpassing, last year’s sales. When presenting to buyers, again remember that they are time-poor! So keep it brief, short, and succinct. Start with an overview and look at what the buyer is getting excited about, then guide the conversation and delve into this. Make sure buyer meetings are two-way, and that they are involved in the conversation, rather than presenting to them for long periods of time. Be well-researched before these meetings.

When discussing how much brands should invest, there is not a one size fits all. Brands should ask for ROI statistics to help navigate what your expected results are, and if this isn’t possible be sure to ask retailers what they can do for the brand instead if you are making an investment with them.

Don’t distribute too widely, without a concrete and wellplanned distribution strategy. A channelled strategy is also important to ensure that products sell with different retailers, so brands should think about the different approaches that they can take, and also the when, where, and how, as well as planning activations.

Wizz Selvey, founder and CEO of Wizz&Co, shares the top common brand blunders - and how to avoid them at all costs.

Top tip for brands: Try to find out how many brands your direct contact (the buyer) has, that way you know more about how to navigate your relationships with them. For example, if they have a large number of brands they look after, it is important to be very time effective and precise, and also to know all of your key stats before meetings with them. Understanding your buyer is key to a positive and effective relationship.

Brands should carefully consider how many channels they want to sell across. D2C has performed really well in recent years, however, things are changing rapidly and it’s getting harder to grow on a D2C basis. Brands that are stocked with too many retailers can ultimately damage their brand by placing it with too many retailers too early. Distributing too widely can mean that brands are stocked at retailers whose customers don’t align with theirs, it can drain brands’ resources and staff time, and can also mean that products are discounted too regularly, directing traffic from D2C channels. So, finding the ideal spot in between is where you want to be.

ADDITIONAL TAKEAWAYS

Marketing is a large part of what the buying team will look at, and also put in place in their strategies. Whilst brands will be able to take advantage or invest in their offerings, it’s important for brands to have great ideas for their marketing and PR activities to drive people to their retailer’s websites.

Brands should gather their own research. Get to know other brands stocked in your retailers and other people in different departments (i.e., merchandisers, retail partners, shop floor staff, online trading team etc.)

Consumer fatigue is real, people are looking for more experiences that are physical, so think about what this can mean for customers. What are customers getting from in-store experiences that they aren’t online?

Right now, brands should think about the cost of living crisis, and to what extent, if any, this is impacting their customers. Are your customers happy to splurge? Or are they buying less but better quality?

Brands should create their own hype also so that retailers start coming to them and looking to work together. ■

Top tip for brands: gain inspiration by looking at other brands, other retailers, marketing tools and strategies that they can see working for others, and twist these to fit your customer/offering.

NIACINAMIDE

Skincare’s powerhouse ingredient

Grown Alchemist Detox Serumhttps://grownalchemist.com

Sunday Riley 5 Stars Retinoid + Niacinamide

Eye Serum - www.mecca.com.au

FaceGym Hydro-Bound Hyaluronic Acid + Niacinamide Serum - www.mecca.com.au

Ella Baché Neobright Correcting Serumwww.ellabache.com.au

Trinny London Overnight ClarityRetinal/Niacinamide Serumhttps://trinnylondon.com/au/

Fresh Tea Elixir Skin Resilience Activating Serum - www.sephora.com.au

Garnier Vitamin C Face Serum with Niacinamide - www.garnier.com.au

Saint Louve Vitamin B3, B5 & Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrating Serum - https://saintlouve.com.au

Ellus&Krue EPI-gN Serumhttps://ellusandkrue.com.au

Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

NIACINAMIDE

Allies of Skin Prebiotics & Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster - www.mecca.com.au Ultraceuticals Ultra B2 Hydrating Serumwww.ultraceuticals.com

Youth to the People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum - www.sephora.com.au

Elizabeth Arden Visible Brightening CicaGlow Concentratewww.elizabetharden.com.au

La Roche Posay Pure 10% Niacinamide Serum - www.laroche-posay.com.au

Fenty Skin Watch Ya Tone Niacinamide Dark Spot Serum - www.sephora.com.au

Dr Naomi Let it B Hydrating Serumhttps://drnaomi.com

Caudalie Vinoperfect Instant Brightening Moisturiser with Niacinamidehttps://en.caudalie.com

Dr Lewinn’s Serum Series –Vitamin C + Fision GlowPlex Glow Serumwww.drlewinns.com.au

Skin Physics Oxygen-C Vitamin C Brightening Serumhttps://skinphysics.com.au

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, was the buzz ingredient we all wanted to know about when Google revealed its most searched-for beauty trends of 2022.

5 MINUTES WITH...

CATE Campbell

After being diagnosed with a stage one melanoma in 2018, four-time Olympic swimmer Cate Campbell became an advocate for sun safety and skin cancer prevention, and an official ambassador for the Melanoma Institute of Australia (MIA). The current multiple world record holder is also an Eau Thermale Avène ambassador, a brand which has a long history of sun-safety advocacy.

By Michelle Ruzzene

Cate Natalie Campbell is a Malawian-born Australian competitive swimmer, and a current multiple world record holder.

Cate won two bronze medals at the 2008 Summer Olympics, a gold medal at the 2012 Summer Olympics, a gold and a silver medal at the 2016 Summer Olympics and a gold medal at the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Cate is the current world record holder in the Long Course 4 x 100m Freestyle Relay with Team Australia and the short course 100 m freestyle.

Cate was one of the flagbearers for Australia at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics alongside basketball player Patty Mills.

CONGRATULATIONS ON ALL OF YOUR INCREDIBLE SWIMMING ACHIEVEMENTS! ANY SECRETS TO YOUR SUCCESS YOU CAN SHARE?

I’m not sure if there is a secret unfortunately, what I would say, is that consistency and hard work trump talent. Consistency isn’t sexy, and hard work is unappealing, but when you combine those two things, it’s amazing what you can achieve.

HOW DID IT FEEL BEING DIAGNOSED WITH A STAGE ONE MELANOMA IN 2018?

It was a huge shock. I can remember my dermatologist calling me on the phone with the results of my biopsy and telling me it was a stage one melanoma. At the word melanoma, time seemed to freeze. All I can remember thinking was: Melanoma means cancer. What is my life going to look like now? Fortunately, when you catch melanoma at stage one, it is unlikely to have spread to other parts of your body. I just had to go back and get surgery to remove a margin of tissue from around the mole to make sure all the cancerous cells were removed, and I now get skin checks every six months. I was very lucky, if it progresses even to stage two, I might have had to undergo radiation treatment and if it progresses to stage four, the mortality rate is over 85 per cent.

WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO RAISE AWARENESS OF SKIN CANCER?

Melanoma is the most common cancer in people aged 18-35 in Australia. It is known as the ‘young person’s cancer’. I shudder to think what would have happened if I didn’t go for that skin check - the outcome could have changed my life forever. So if I can encourage one person to go and get a skin check, then that is a good outcome.

HOW IS BEING AN AVÈNE BRAND AMBASSADOR A GOOD FIT FOR YOU?

Avène is a globally respected brand, I had actually been using their products before I came on as a brand ambassador. I love how passionate they are about sharing the message of

sun safety - they have built whole campaigns around it. One of the best things you can do to protect yourself against harmful UV rays is to wear sunscreen - yet one of the barriers to people wearing sunscreen every day is that sunscreen can often be oily and sticky. The composition of Avène’s Sunscreen Aqua-fluid is lightweight and moisturising and you can wear it under make-up or use it over your moisturiser every day.

SWIMMING AND BEING IN THE SUN IS SUCH AN IMPORTANT PART OF AUSSIE CULTURE – HOW CAN WE SAFELY ENJOY OUR OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE?

Firstly, wear sunscreen. Everyday. Whether you are planning on going to the beach or spending time outdoors, the best thing you can do is make sunscreen a habit. Then try and stay out of the sun in the middle of the day - this is when the UV index is at its highest. Invest in shade options to take to the beach and reapply sunscreen regularly. I am not saying stay inside this summer - quite the opposite! Get out and enjoy all the wonderful things Australia has to offer, but do it safely. You will definitely find me at the beach or climbing up a mountain this summer - but I always make sure I have sunscreen and a hat with me.

Always read the label and follow the directions for use. Wear protective clothing, hats and eyewear when exposed to the sun. Avoid prolonged exposure in the sun. Reapply frequently to maintain protection. ■

“I shudder to think what would have happened if I didn’t go for that skin check.”

Your guide to

APP2023

There’s only a few weeks until Australia’s largest pharmacy conference and trade exhibition opens on the Gold Coast. APP provides the pharmacy industry with an unparalleled opportunity to come together and connect with colleagues, exchange ideas, view the latest products and services, network and, most importantly, have fun. Retail Beauty rounds up everything you need to know about the four-day conference.

WHAT CAN APP2023 OFFER PHARMACY ASSISTANTS?

APP2023 offers PAs some amazing opportunities, including:

Free access to over 200 suppliers at Australia’s largest pharmacy trade expo

Free Welcome Reception tickets

Reduced tickets to the APP Street Party, pharmacy’s night of nights

Free PATY Award Information Session on Friday 25 March (includes lunch)

Opportunity to meet the PATY 2022 Winner

• Reduced registration fees with access to APP sessions – to view the full program, visit www.appconference.com

TRADE EXHIBITION

OPENING TIMES:

WHAT IS THE AUSTRALIAN PHARMACY PROFESSIONAL CONFERENCE & TRADE EXHIBITION (APP)?

APP is The Pharmacy Guild of Australia’s annual national conference and the largest pharmacy conference and trade show in Australia. APP offers attendees a comprehensive four-day educational program, exciting social activities and a trade exhibition showcasing the latest products, services and industry information. Covid-safe and face-to-face, the event is also the perfect format to reconnect with likeminded primary healthcare providers, trusted suppliers and other pharmacy industry heavyweights.

• Thursday, March 23, 5:30pm – 8:30pm (Main exhibition hall open and Welcome Reception)

Friday, March 24, 9:30am – 5:00pm

• Saturday, March 25, 9:30am – 5:00pm

Sunday, March 26, 9.30am – 12:30pm

WHEN AND WHERE IS THE CONFERENCE AND TRADE EXHIBITION BEING HELD?

The conference and trade exhibition will be held at the Gold Coast Convention & Exhibition Centre (GCCEC). Conference sessions and the trade exhibition are held from Thursday, March 23 until Sunday, March 26, 2023. Please visit the Program page online at www. appconference.com for session information and times.

APP offers attendees a comprehensive four-day educational program, exciting social activities and a trade exhibition showcasing the latest products, services and industry information.

HOW MANY TRADE EXHIBITION STANDS WILL BE ON DISPLAY?

There will be over 400 trade stands showcasing the latest industry products and services.

WHO CAN ATTEND?

Admission to conference sessions and the trade exhibition is open to anyone working within the pharmacy industry.

IS ENTRY TO THE TRADE EXHIBITION FREE?

There is no cost to view the trade exhibition.

CAN I BRING GUESTS TO THE SOCIAL EVENTS?

Extra tickets to both the Welcome Reception and the APP Street Party can be purchased online with your registration. Additional Welcome Reception tickets can

WELCOME RECEPTION

be purchased for $85 each and additional Street Party tickets for $110 each (the Street Party ticket price has been reduced to make it more affordable for partners and guests to attend with delegates).

WHAT IS THE CUT-OFF DATE FOR REGISTRATIONS?

Online Registrations will be open up to and during the event.

WHERE TO STAY:

If you’ve already registered, don’t forget to book your accommodation. Special conference accommodation rates have been negotiated with a range of hotels and apartments within close proximity to the conference venue, the Gold Coast Convention & Exhibition Centre.

For further details on Australia’s largest pharmacy trade show and conference, visit: www.appconference.com

The networking focal point of APP, the Welcome Reception provides the perfect opportunity to catch up with colleagues, meet with suppliers and build new business relationships in a relaxed environment. Drinks and canapes included. When: Thursday, March 23, 5.30pm - 8.30pm

Where: Trade Exhibition Area, GCCEC

PHARMACY ASSISTANT NETWORKING LUNCH

Come and network with like-minded pharmacy assistants plus meet the 2022 Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award National Winner, Terri Bakker. This lunch is free for all pharmacy assistants.

When: Saturday, March 25, 12.30pm - 1.30pm

Where: Foyer A

APP’S ‘HOLLYWOOD NIGHTS’ STREET PARTY

Celebrate the drama and glitz of Hollywood’s golden era at our ‘Hollywood Nights’ themed Street Party, where you can join pharmacy colleagues to network and create memories at pharmacy’s ‘night of nights’. Stroll down the red carpet and enjoy entertainment including DJs, a silent disco, Hollywood-inspired acts and our two cover bands – Lisa Hunt’s Forever Soul (Byron Bay) and Bermuda Social (Sydney). Dinner and drinks included.

Where: Event Centre, The Star Gold Coast

Cost: Included in Full Registration incl Street Party

Additional tickets: $85 per person for pharmacy assistants/$110 per person for guests

Dress: Hollywood Glamour/Cocktail

For workshop participant Mon, the Look Good Feel Better program provided muchneeded support while she was undergoing cancer treatment; “Living regionally and not having a cancer care nurse, you can feel quite isolated and have to do a lot of research yourself. I found some information about the Look Good Feel Better program and decided to participate, and it was the best thing that I did. The volunteers who ran the workshop were so lovely and the products were amazing and second-to-none. I felt so pampered and cared for. When you have no hair, no eyelashes and no eyebrows and try to hold your head high when you leave the house, having some expert advice and beautiful products to help make you look and feel better really makes a huge difference.”

Each year the program aims to help 10,000 women, men and teens undergoing cancer treatment learn practical strategies to manage the physical, psychological and social impacts of cancer treatment. Through face-to-

face workshops on skincare, make-up, and headwear the program assists with the management of the appearance-related side effects of treatment, while a range of virtual workshop topics help participants learn ways to improve energy, mobility, nutritional health, and mental wellbeing. The Home-Delivered Confidence Kit service is also offered for those who feel more at ease accessing the program from the comfort of home.

The generosity of the beauty industry and the community has allowed the charity to provide the program free-of-charge for the past 32 years with companies, brands and individuals showing their support in an impressive range of ways.

As supporters since the charity’s inception, The Estée Lauder Companies donates stock for Confidence Kits, sponsors workshops, encourages staff to volunteer, and attends Dream Ball - the charity’s annual gala evening. Deciding to go one step further, in 2022 Managing Director Australia & New Zealand, Emmerentia Wilding took on a personal challenge, signing up for Dry July in support of the charity.

“In my role as a board member of the Cancer Patients Foundation and as a long-time advocate for the Look Good Feel Better program, I have seen firsthand the physical and emotional support provided to thousands of people going through cancer treatment. The last few years have been difficult for so many but particularly for cancer patients and Look Good Feel Better; the Covid-19 pandemic led to the cancellation of face-to-face workshops

WAYS TO LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER give

How you can make a greater impact in 2023

Emmerentia Wilding.

and offered fewer occasions to fundraise. Participating in Dry July provided me with the opportunity to fundraise for Look Good Feel Better on a personal level, with the knowledge that any donations that I could raise by giving up alcohol for just four weeks could result in a life-changing experience for a program participant,” she said.

While many of Emmerentia’s friends, family and colleagues were aware of the important work of Look Good Feel Better, Dry July allowed her the opportunity to educate those who hadn’t heard about the program and the impact it has on those going through cancer treatment. “It was particularly important for me to note that even the smallest of donations combined could make the biggest difference to someone living with cancer, with just $100 supporting one participant through the program.”

Similarly, Beiersdorf Australia has had a longstanding commitment to the charity through stock donations for Confidence Kits, contributing product to the charity’s Christmas crackers to assist with fundraising, sponsorship of workshops, and annual attendance at Dream Ball. For Managing Director Clynton Bartholomeusz, ongoing support of the program is an opportunity for the organisation and its employees to deliver on the company purpose in a truly meaningful way.

“Beiersdorf staff who attend Dream Ball get to hear the stories behind the program participants and the wonderful volunteers. We all know someone who has been impacted by cancer, so understanding how Beiersdorf can play a role in raising funds and donating products for use in the workshops helps further cement our company purpose of “Care Beyond Skin”. Programs like Look Good Feel Better are concrete examples of how our products and we as employees can play a part in showing real care for people in their time of need,” he said.

HOW YOUR SUPPORT HELPS

Each confidence-building face-to-face workshop costs approximately $1,000 to run

Each Home-Delivered Confidence Kit, including access to the charity’s virtual workshops costs $100 per participant

Each prize donated to Dream Ball helps the event raise over $350,000

Nicole Jervis, Fundraising Manager at Look Good Feel Better said: “We’re so fortunate the beauty industry appreciates the role Look Good Feel Better plays in the treatment experience for cancer patients and chooses to support in such a broad number of ways. As The Estée Lauder Companies and Beiersdorf Australia demonstrate, there are opportunities for companies and individuals alike to have an impact on so many levels.”

The charity will be hosting its annual Dream Ball in Sydney on Friday, 12th May and tickets are available for purchase now. The evening will bring together over 500 guests from the cosmetic, retail and media industries and a range of ticket package options are available. For those who are unable to attend, there is an opportunity to contribute through the donation of prizes, sponsorship of workshops, and the purchase of raffle tickets and auction items.

The charity will also be taking part in Dry July again this year, with registrations opening in May. You can sign up for Dry July yourself, put together a team with family, friends or colleagues, or donate to support someone else who’s going dry for the month in support of the Look Good Feel Better program.

“To continue doing what we do we need the ongoing commitment of this incredibly generous industry. Every dollar counts towards making a very real difference to Australians undergoing cancer treatment and we’re excited to see the impact we can have in our 33rd year,” Jervis said. ■

Clynton Bartholomeusz.

“To continue doing what we do we need the ongoing commitment of this incredibly generous industry...”

Nicole Jervis, Fundraising Manager at Look Good Feel Better

The GREEN

Edit

What inspired you to become a makeup artist?

I love the power of makeup and the ritual of skincare to nourish and enhance, so I studied Makeup Artistry in 2014 when my children were young, as I was looking for a career change with flexible working hours. Since then I have worked as a freelance makeup artist on fashion, advertising and beauty shoots for many beauty, fashion and lifestyle brands. To complement my work as a makeup artist I also worked with green beauty brand founders to create bespoke imagery and content for their beauty campaigns, managing all aspects of shoot production and of course, creating a glowing makeup look for models on the day of the shoot. This is where all of my experience working in the industry came together. My passion is bringing brands to life and working with brand founders who share the same values when it comes to natural, ethical, sustainable and cruelty-free beauty.

What is The Green Edit?

The Green Edit exists to support the evolution of the beauty industry towards one that is better for us and our planet. We champion high performing, ethical beauty and wellness brands and connect them with top tier media, influencers, spas, clinics, international and Australian retailers and conscious consumers to provide promotional and distribution opportunities.

How did The Green Edit come about?

Cathy Tolpigin is the founder and curator of The Green Edit, an innovative B2B and B2C event series and platform dedicated to explaining and promoting the best in clean beauty and lifestyle products. The organic makeup artist shares why she is passionate about working with better-for-you beauty, lifestyle and wellness brands.

By Michelle Ruzzene

Tell us about your career journey. My career spans over 25 years, having worked in various creative fields all of which have led me on the journey to create the Green Edit. I studied fashion at The University of Technology (UTS), Sydney and graduated in 2000 before working as a fashion stylist in television for many years. I later studied Advertising Media whilst working in creative services for a fast-paced boutique branding agency.

In 2018 I produced and created the glowing makeup looks for The Edible Beauty Face Forward Campaign, which was all about celebrating women of all ages, skin types and ethnicities. Founder Anna Mitsios planted a seed by sharing that that there really wasn’t platform dedicated to showcasing, connecting and promoting clean beauty brands in Australia. This prompted me to reach out to many other clean beauty brand founders such as Cindy Luken founder of Luk Beautifood, Trudi Jaye, co-founder of Retreatment Botanics and the Inika Organic Team to really determine what type of a platform would be of service and after many conversations and research I created The Green Edit to meet that need.

What can people expect at this year’s event?

Event 1, 8am - 12:30pm: The Beauty Breakfast Summit EventTicketed event. All beauty brands welcome. Beauty and wellness brand founders, their PR and marketing teams are invited to purchase a ticket to attend a beautiful breakfast together with other founders for a morning of connection, inspiration and insight. Guests will gain knowledge from three curated industry panels featuring 14 key media, retailer and industry experts on the trends and insights influencing beauty brands and the beauty industry in 2023.

Event 2, 2pm - 5pm: The Green Edit Beauty Brand Showcase Event - Exclusively for clean beauty and wellness brands. A highly edited, curated, limited by-invitation-only event featuring 20 beauty and wellness brands who will showcase their products and connect

Cathy Tolpigin

with a curated guest list of key media, decision making beauty retailers, spas and clinics, looking for the best in green beauty.

The Best Of The Green Edit Award is back for it’s third year and our 2023 winners will be announced at our Showcase Event. Guests will experience the latest beauty innovations, hero products and immerse in 1:1 beauty consultations with industry experts and founders all while being treated to organic wine, beauty elixirs and delicious canapés.

Tell us about your involvement with Look Good Feel Better (LGFB).

As a makeup artist, I have loved supporting Look Good Feel Better over the years by creating the makeup looks for various LGFB promotional campaign shoots and by running skincare and makeup workshops for women undergoing cancer treatment. I have seen women enter the workshops with sadness and apprehension, but quickly transforms into a sense of relief and comfort just by being in the same space with others who understand what they are going through. I will again support LGFB with our beauty breakfast summit event on the 16th of March 2023 by donating proceeds from beauty summit tickets sales. The LGFB team will join us at the event with an activation so they can connect with those working in the beauty industry. I have also created a gifting collaboration where summit guests (beauty brands) have the unique opportunity to gift their products to the beauty media and retailer summit speakers whilst supporting the work of LGFB.

Where do you see the future of the beauty industry headed?

I believe that clean beauty in its truest sense will become the norm. Consumers are driving this change by demanding transparency in formulation and packaging that is more sustainable. Larger multinational beauty brands are now paying attention and moving in this direction.

What is the one common myth about the clean beauty industry that you want to debunk?

That not all beauty products that are marketed as clean, green or sustainable stand up to those marketing claims. As the beauty industry is mostly unregulated, we have seen and continue to see green washing. Consumers are aware of this now more than ever and brands are held to account and pressured to re-evaluate their formulations

and production processes. Consumers are looking to support brands who are honest and transparent about how they operate, what their corporate and social responsibility looks like including a clear breakdown of the ingredients included in their products. To help consumers navigate this confusing space our Loved By The Green Edit Stamp, which entails a certain set of criteria I mapped with trusted health experts and product formulators. This is designed to communicate our definition of clean and to help our community make an informed decision about the products they buy. We don’t subscribe to green washing or fear mongering. We just want to give our community the tools they need to make an informed decision.

What’s your hero beauty product?

The one product I use several times a day on repeat is the Ipsum Lip Oil Balm. Founder Janet Hayward has created the most luxurious and unique texture, a lip balm/oil hybrid which is so nourishing and hydrating. This product won Best Lip Product and People’s Choice award for The Best of The Green Edit Awards in 2022. I have one in my car, in my hand bag, bedside table and on my desk, it truly is a stand out product.

THE GREEN EDIT’S FIVE MAIN CHANNELS

* The Beauty Breakfast Summit

* The Brand Showcase Event

* The Best Of The Green Edit Awards

* The Green Edit Podcast

* The Green Edit Digital Site

The Green Edit Beauty Breakfast Summit Event and The Green Edit Beauty Brand Showcase Event will be held on March 16 at 12 - Micron, Sydney.

www.thegreenedit.com.au

Aussie made

01. The Green Edit Beauty Brand Showcase 2022

02. The Green Edit Beauty Brand Showcase 2022

03. Inika Organic Radiant Glow Veil - Winner 2022

04. Cathy Tolpigin and LGFB Managing Director Carol Kavurma

Matiere Premiere Falcon Leather EDP - www.libertineparfumerie.com.au Ouai Dean Street EDP - www.sephora.com.au Lancôme Idôle EDP - www.lancome.com.au

Maurice Roucel Frederic Malle Uncut Gem EDP - www.mecca.com.au Maison Margiela Replica Autumn Vibes - www.mecca.com.au Goldfield & Banks Australia Island Lush - www.goldfieldandbanks.com

Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

There She Nose

AGAIN

You’ve most certainly smelled one Louise Turner’s scents – she has created fragrances for the likes of luxury powerhouses including Carolina Herrera, Tom Ford, Chloe, Dior, Gucci, Mugler and more. The UK perfumer shares more about the creative process, the hottest fragrance trends and her latest launch.

By Michelle Ruzzene

WHAT ARE THE MOST CHALLENGING PARTS OF BEING A PERFUMER?

Noire Lancôme, a beautiful chypre, but also the smell of cigarettesmy father was a heavy smoker.

WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO BECOME A PERFUMER?

Destiny was what brought me to perfumery. I literally tripped over it. I was destined for a medical career. I started training to be a dentist and changed my mind. Going back home to Kent to rethink what I wanted to do with my life (I went back to university to study environmental science the following year) I decided that I needed to find myself a job before going back to study - which I did at a local fragrance company Givaudan. There began my love affair with perfumery!

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF BEING A PERFUMER?

My favourite part is that each time you start a new idea it’s different. Every story that develops is unexpected and also a discovery so I’m always learning .... also it’s great to see my finished products out there hopefully bringing as much pleasure to those that wear them as it was for me to develop them.

Some of the most challenging parts are the competition aspects. Our projects are always customer driven and practically 95 per cent competitive (with other fragrance houses similar to Givaudan) and internally with the other perfumers that I work with. It is difficult to win and we lose probably 80-90 per cent of the projects we work on so we need to be quite resilient.

HOW DO YOU CREATE A FRAGRANCE?

The development starts with client brief. From there I will come up with an idea usually something very simple to start with, often inspired by raw materials that I love, like an association of tonka with tuberose. From there I will build the fragrance working with our internal team of evaluators (that help perfumers create better and more appropriate fragrances for the specific client) then the fragrance would be submitted to the client - and hopefully they will like it. Myself and the client work together to develop it into a winner - hopefully!

This process is quite long, on average between one and two years, and it’s never a straight road. It can take as many as 1500 or more trials before we reach the end and put the ‘perfect perfume’ in the bottle. One that will make the people who choose to wear it smile and feel happy!

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU HAVE FOR THOSE WISHING TO PURSUE A CAREER SIMILAR TO YOURS?

It is an amazing job, but it is difficult to get into. There are two schools in Paris that train potential perfumers and evaluators, that is probably the best way.

WHAT FRAGRANCE TRENDS ARE YOU SEEING IN 2023?

The main trend I see for 2023 is a pursuit of unapologetic intensity. Most recent successful fragrances have a powerful trail and can be immediately recognisable. Fragrance is more than ever a luxury product, and consumers want to get value for money – shy perfumes are no longer a thing!

WHAT INSPIRED YOU FOR THE FRAGRANCE JIMMY CHOO I WANT CHOO FOREVER?

For this new version, just like for the original fragrance, I wanted to create a fragrance that exudes pure glamour and sophistication.

WHAT MAKES JIMMY CHOO I WANT CHOO FOREVER UNIQUE?

I Want Choo Forever is a totally different take on the original I Want Choo. This new version was composed to create an intensely mysterious and seductive trail, made of a juicy rose note, a luscious black cherry liqueur, with an overdose of an elegant moss accord.

WHAT KIND OF CONSUMER DOES JIMMY CHOO I WANT CHOO FOREVER APPEAL TO?

I Want Choo Forever is for cherry lovers. It is a great intense fragrance for evenings and nights out. This perfume will make people ask you what you are wearing…

Jimmy Choo I Want Choo Forever EDP is distributed by Cosmax Prestige Brands and is available at Myer and David Jones. ■

“I Want Choo Forever is for cherry lovers. It is a great intense fragrance for evenings and nights out. This perfume will make people ask you what you are wearing…”

Louise Turner. Photo by Givaudan

The evolution of iconic and noteworthy fragrances 1946-2022

PINO SILVESTRE Pino Silvestre

Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel holds the key to everyone’s likes and dislikes with a classification system so innovative it had to be copyrighted. For the past four decades, the Reference Guide has taken the guesswork out of matching fragrances. The current guidebook includes a genealogy of each fragrance family, with noteworthy and iconic fragrances from the past century.

Sheer woody notes renew the harmonies of cedar, patchouli, pine, sandalwood, and vetiver.

2005 MOLECULE 01 Escentric Molecules

2003 UN JARDIN EN MEDITERRANÉE Hermès

2015 DEBASER DS & Durga

2015 ALAÏA PARIS Azzedine Alaïa

ROMANCE Ralph Lauren

2004 ORMONDE MAN Ormonde

& BOB Eight & Bob

2013 ASHOKA Neele Vermeire

2014 VETIVER MOLOKO Ex Nihilo

HERO Burberry

SCENT

packing

The fragrances that will dominate new beauty products in 2023

By Rohan Widdison, CEO of New Laboratories

Like its famous cousin perfume, beauty product fragrances add another dimension to the consumer experience. The consumer’s very perception about the product from its efficacy to how it feels on their skin is heavily affected by this seemingly inconsequential detail. Fragrance sets the tone, evokes a mood, and plays into the wearer’s emotional state. Manufacturers are taking full advantage of its powerful properties to develop the next generation of beauty products.

2023 will see beauty trends converge as demand for multi-tasking products and clean ingredients rise. Beauty product fragrances will mirror scents in the home in a bid to create the ultimate seamless experience. In 2023 popular key notes will include citrus, fresh fruit, coconut, and light floral tones echoing the summer and spring theme for the year. Turning away from the muscular and bold scents making a comeback in 2022, 2023’s consumers seek year-round freshness in their personal care products.

At the top of this list citrus is the go-to scent for delivering vitality and zest into beauty products. This encompasses lemon, mandarin, grapefruit, and orange scents. Best suited to wake-me-up products like facial scrubs, face wash gels and cooling eye products, the citrus fragrance of 2023 is lively, refreshing, high quality and most importantly, authentic. Scents that smell overly synthetic are a big no-no for discerning consumers who are looking for clean formulations at every price point.

Likewise for fresh fruit fragrances in fruit-based beauty products that include both exotic fruits like starfruit and mangosteen and more common fruits like apple and watermelon. As a natural source of hydration, antioxidants and brightening properties, fruit-based products are on the rise as consumers apply the food-asmedicine philosophy towards personal care.

Products based on specific fruits are not only expected to imbue the consumer with its particular beauty advantages, it must also contain its scent. As a vital part of conveying the good-enough-to-eat qualities of its products, fruit scents have come

a long way from the unsophisticated fragrances that used to be in circulation. The fruity fragrances of 2023 are more grown up, far less sugary, more subtle, and more realistic.

Coconut will also feature more heavily in 2023’s fragrance rotation but again will be far less exaggerated and overpowering and more subtle and friendly on the nose. Expect a soft coconut fragrance that is possibly rounded out with hints of vanilla or lifted with notes of frangipani to deliver a light and fresh scent suitable for misting sprays, body scrubs and even heavier balms.

Floral tones are a perennial favourite amongst industry players and for good reason – they evoke freshness, femininity, and beauty. Classics like rose and lavender are always crowd-pleasers as are more striking choices like orchid, tuberose, and peony. The mood-boosting scents layer well and are pleasant without dominating. Florals may be paired with other grassy or herbal scents for additional layers of brightness and complexity. These might include clary sage, vetiver, eucalyptus, or even native fragrances such as Kakadu plum and myrtle lemon.

In an era where consumers are increasingly scrutinising the healthiness of ingredients, going fragrance-free risks depriving beauty enthusiasts of indulgently scented products. 2023 will see a continuation of brands adopting high standards of ingredients and harnessing the full power of naturally derived ingredients. This has added advantages for those who wish to avoid harsh petrochemicals, particularly those with sensitive skin. Manufacturers are no longer hiding hundreds of proprietary chemicals under the umbrella label of “fragrance” or “parfum” but are instead opting for pure distillations of real ingredients. Essential oils are an example of this trend.

Far from the old days when fragrance was just an afterthought to beauty products, 2023 will be the year where garden-fresh fragrances combine with cutting-edge beauty technology to bring revitalising beauty products year-round.

https://newlabs.com.au

In 2023 popular key notes will include citrus, fresh fruit, coconut, and light floral tones echoing the summer and spring theme for the year.

At the top of this list citrus is the go-to scent for delivering vitality and zest into beauty products.

Rohan Widdison, CEO of New Laboratories.

sparkleDEPTH, WARMTH

The Autumn makeup must-haves for every MUA

Mavala Mini Color Nail Polish in Sevilla - https://mavala.com.au

Gucci Multi-Use Cream & Powder Quad Eye Palette in Wild Bouquet - www.coty.com

Natio Sheer Beauty Lip Gloss in Nude - www.natio.com.au

Rare Beauty Positive Light Under Eye Brightener - www.rarebeauty.com

Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Glow Glide Face Architect Highlighter in Rose Gold - www.charlottetilbury.com

Hourglass Cosmetics Unlocked Satin Crème Lipstick in Dove - www.hourglasscosmetics.com

GXVE Eye See In Sparkle Clean Multi-Dimensional Eye Pigment - https://gxvebeauty.com

Photography:

CLEAN SKIN

Expert insights to amplify the most crucial and premier step of your skincare routine

DEEP DIVE Cleansing Fundamentals

By Nikita Papas

ANCIENT RITUALS

In ancient times, elite Egyptians used castor, moringa, and sesame oils to preserve the youth of their skin. Facial masks comprised of milk and honey were used to moisturise, rejuvenate, and soften. They combined clay and olive oil into a paste to cleanse their faces, and used sea salt to purify and exfoliate. The ocean has forever been aligned to cleansing, healing, and rebirth. Did you know that the chemical composition of sea water is almost identical to our blood plasma? Aside from therapeutic salt (circa 3.5% salinity), the ocean is rich in beneficial minerals - including calcium, magnesium, potassium, selenium, and zinc - that can assist with detoxification, exfoliation, and cellular regeneration. Time spent in the ocean also accelerates peripheral circulation, which can maximise the absorption your most treasured serums and moisturisers. Inspired by a sun-smart, beach-side Summer, this Editorial Feature unveils a deep dive into the fundamentals of cleansing. Understand the science, take note of the expert dermatological insights, and discover the recommended ‘tried and tested’ products, to amplify the most crucial, and first step of your daily skincare routine.

THE CRUCIAL SKIN BARRIER

Esteemed skincare professionals - including dermatologists, beauty therapists (aka estheticians), and cosmetic physicians - advocate the use of a facial cleanser, as the first and most fundamental step, to create and maintain a healthy, radiant-looking complexion. Fuelled by the expertise of key opinion leaders, the conversation about facial cleansing has embraced the protection and restoration of the natural skin barrier. “The skin barrier (stratum corneum) is the outermost layer of the epidermis - the skin’s protective barrier. Think of it as a ‘brick wall’ comprised of protein-enriched cells, held together by ‘mortar’ – a mix of vital ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. This crucial barrier shields skin from harmful allergens, bacteria and irritants, whilst simultaneously locking in essential moisture (oil), and hydration (water)”, explains dermatologist Dr Michelle Rodrigues (Director of Chroma Dermatology, Pigment and Skin of Colour Centre, VIC).

pH (potential of hydrogen) is a numeric scale (0-14) that indicates how acidic or alkaline a substance is. Distilled (pure) water showcases a neutral pH of 7 - anything below 7 is acidic, and anything

above 7 is alkaline. The surface of our skin (often referred to as the ‘acid mantle’), is slightly acidic and showcases a low pH that sits at around 5. Our skin’s natural acidity combats harmful bacteria and damaging free radicals. Traditional soap bars are highly alkaline. Dermatologist-recommended cleansers are soap-free, and mimic the skin’s natural pH, sitting at a pH of 5-6. Anything lower or higher can lead to a compromised skin barrier – the consequences include atopic dermatitis, dry skin, breakouts, inflammation, and sensitivity. According to Dr Rodrigues, ‘squeaky clean’ skin is not the goal –the ideal cleanser should lift and sweep away impurities, without stripping the skin to avoid impairing the skin barrier. A healthy skin barrier = healthier, more resilient skin. Despite the influx of education (particularly across the social media highway), the navigation aligned to purchasing an efficacious cleanser can remain overwhelming. Assisting consumers should ideally begin with identifying their skin type and key concerns, and recommending a gentle but effective, skin barrier-loving formula. The texture of the cleanser – foam, gel, cream, oil, or balm - is preference-based, but should also be considered with due care.

THE SCIENCE REVEALED

Many facial cleansers are powered by chemical surfactants – ‘surface active agents’ (designed to interface oil with water) that attract and suspend oil, impurities, and makeup from the outermost layer of the skin, and allow them to be rinsed away. “Surfactants vary in strength – products formulated with skin-sensitising Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) should be avoided, whereas products powered by (the similar sounding but milder surfactant) - Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) - tend to be more considerate of the natural skin barrier”, says Dr Rodrigues. The most reputable skincare brands are embracing a considered approach to create barrier-respecting formulations. Research should never be disregarded, but rest assured, many of today’s new-age cleansers are mindfully combined with a beneficial combination of gentle chemical surfactants, and/ or natural surfactants, including those that are Amino Acid based. Furthermore, they are infused with skin-loving ingredients such as essential Ceramides, moisturising Glycerin, hydrating Hyaluronic Acid, collagen-boosting Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), soothing Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), and antioxidant-rich Tocopherol (Vitamin E), to strengthen and protect the natural skin barrier.

FOAM & GEL CLEANSERS

Foam and gel cleansers are ideal for normal, and combination to oily skin types - including those prone to breakouts. Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cleaner is a pH-balanced foaming cleanser formulated with (olive-derived) Squalene, and Vitamin E to strengthen the skin barrier, a blend of Avocado and Apricot Kernel Oils to moisturise, and Vitamin C to brighten. This brand icon is fragrance-free, suited to all skin types, and effortlessly removes grime and makeup. Like all CeraVe products, the brand’s Foaming Oil-Free Cleanser has been developed with dermatologists, is fragrance-free, noncomedogenic, and includes three skin-identical Ceramides, to fortify the skin’s natural barrier. Supplemented with Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide, the refreshing gel texture provides a thorough, non-stripping cleanse. It Cosmetics Confidence In A Cleanser presents a unique, hybrid gel-serum formula loaded with a powerhouse Ceramide Complex, Colloidal Oatmeal, Hyaluronic Acid, and Niacinamide. The sulphate-free cleanser effortlessly removes grime and long-wear makeup, but leaves skin feeling hydrated and soft. SkinCeuticals Simply Clean Exfoliating Gel Cleanser offers a ‘backed-by-science’ formula powered by an Amino Acid surfactant system, and exfoliating Sulphonic Acid to remove dirt, excess oil, dead skin cells, and waterproof makeup. Ideal for normal, and particularly combination or oily skin types, this refining cleanser is formulated with Glycerin, and soothing Aloe Vera and Chamomile Extracts. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Foaming Gel Cleanser is specifically designed to address the concerns of sensitive, oily, acne-prone skin. The gentle but effective formula showcases a considered pH of 5.5, and is infused with the brand’s soothing (antioxidant-rich) Thermal Spring Water, and Zinc PCA – an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial trace element to reduce sebum production and the occurrence of breakouts.

CREAM & MILK CLEANSERS

Hydrating cream or milk cleansers are suited to all skin types, but are especially beneficial for dry to very dry skin, and skin prone to sensitivity. “It’s a common misconception that oily skin

susceptible to acne is not suited to cream cleansers – like skin prone to sensitivity, oily skin can become aggravated by potent foam and gel cleansers”, says Dr Rodrigues. La Roche-Posay Toleriane Gentle Cream Dermo-Cleanser showcases a minimalist, ‘made for sensitive’ formula enriched with Glycerin, and the brand’s soothing Thermal Spring Water. The nourishing, milky texture effectively removes dirt and makeup, hydrates, reduces the risk of irritation, and can removed with a cotton pad, or rinsed off with water. One of MECCA’s best-sellers, Tatcha The Rice Wash is inspired by the ancient Japanese ritual of using left-over rice water to cleanse, brighten, and soften skin. The comforting cream cleanser is formulated with an Amino Acid surfactant base to gently remove impurities, Hyaluronic Acid, and the brand’s proprietary Hadasei-3 Complex - a twice-fermented blend of Akita Rice, Kyoto Green Tea, and Okinawa Algae, to replenish and protect the skin barrier. CeraVe Hydrating Cream Cleanser integrates skin-identical Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, and Glycerin to strengthen and protect the skin barrier. Recommended by skincare specialists across the globe, this affordable, non-irritating formula gently removes impurities and makeup, and provides all-day hydration via the brand’s Moisturising Multivesicular Technology.

OIL & BALM CLEANSERS

Oil and balm cleansers are having a moment. “Oils attract other oils. Oil and balm cleansers tend to be formulated with a combination of skin-loving oils, to effectively attract and lift impurities, sunscreen, and long-wear makeup from the surface of the skin. They can balance and hydrate, but some can leave an oily residue on the skin, which may warrant a second round of cleansing”, explains Dr Rodrigues. Spotlighted by Korean ‘double cleansing’ skincare rituals, oil and balm cleansers are often deployed as the first step to dissolve and lift makeup and sunscreen, followed by a prescribed rinseable cleanser, to remove any residual oil and grime. The ritual is practiced AM and PM, although many consumers prefer to double cleanse in the evening only. Dr Rodrigues warns that ‘double cleansing’ can lead to over cleansing, which can disrupt the natural skin barrier. Seek out dermatologist-

tested products, proceed with caution, and monitor the condition of your skin to avoid dryness, inflammation, and breakouts.

Emma Lewisham Illuminating Cleansing Oil is curated with specialised Botanical Cleansing and Protective Conditioning Complexes – the synergetic mix of nutrient-rich phyto-actives includes conditioning Camelia Seed Oil, and Vitamin E-rich Organic Chia, Rosehip and Macadamia Extracts. The 100% natural, and mindfully refillable cleanser offers a luxurious formulation that effectively removes makeup and impurities, while leaving the skin feeling fresh, dewy and hydrated. Gently massaged onto dry skin to dissolve excess oil, pollutants, and makeup, the unique formula lathers into a milky fluid with the addition of water to rinse away residual grime. Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil is formulated with 86% natural origin ingredients, and is ideal for very dry skin prone to atopic dermatitis and eczema. The fragrance-free formula contains Avène’s soothing prebiotic Thermal Spring Water, Glycerin, Arginine, Evening Primrose and Jojoba Seed Oils, and Vitamin E. This versatile cleansing oil can be lathered onto wet hands to remove grime and makeup from the face, and added to bath water to cleanse, soothe, and reduce irritation.

Highly rated by ‘in-the-know’ Beauty Editors and customers alike, Clinique Take The Day Off Cleansing Balm is formulated with Safflower Seed Oil (renowned for its cleansing properties), and Vitamin E to neutralise harmful, ageing free radicals.

The fragrance-free, solid balm transforms into a silky oil upon application, to effortlessly dissolve tenacious makeup, sunscreen and impurities, and rinses off thoroughly to impart a soft and hydrated complexion. Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm is infused with nine beneficial oils - including Elderberry, Roman Chamomile, Starflower, and Sweet Almond. Star anti-ageing ingredients include Vitamin E, Glycerin, and Padina Pavonica – a Mediterraneansourced algae (rich in fatty acids), that promotes skin elasticity. Available at MECCA, the spa-inspired, aromatic balm transforms into an oil to dissolve impurities, and into a hydrating milk upon contact with water. Glow Recipe’s cult-status, Korean-inspired

skincare pairs antioxidant-rich fruit extracts with gentle, clinically proven actives. The brand’s Papaya Sorbet Enzyme Cleansing Balm is formulated with exfoliating Papaya Enzymes, antioxidant-rich Blueberry Extract and Apricot Kernel Oil, and hydrating Camelia Seed Oil. Also available at MECCA, this radiance-boosting balm showcases a smooth sorbet texture, which transforms into a milky oil to thoroughly cleanse and soften skin.

LAST WORD

Facial cleansing is fundamental – ideally AM and PM. Dermatologist-approved, pH-balanced, fragrance-free, noncomedogenic cleansers that are formulated with a combination of gentle surfactants, and skin barrier-loving ingredients reign supreme. Facial skin is delicate – abrasive, physical (granular) scrubs are not recommended. Dr Rodrigues advises using lukewarm (never hot) to emulsify and remove rinseable cleansers – be tender, and dedicate a solid minute to massage the product onto the face and neck with circular motions. Rinse thoroughly, and gently pat dry with a delicate, absorbent cloth. Toners? Not so mandatory (the choice is yours), but if you’re using a rinse-free cream cleanser, consider applying an alcohol-free, barrier-respectful toner suited to your specific skin type to remove residue. Double cleansing? The ritual can be virtuous, but proceed with caution - monitor the health of your skin to avoid over-cleansing. If you’re addicted, consider complementing your initial oil or balm cleanser with a dermatologist-tested Micellar Water. My top French pharmacy brand picks - Avène, Bioderma, or La Roche-Posay. Home hygiene? Our pillowcases accumulate saliva, sweat, grime, and an alarming number of bacteria – replace yours on a regular basis. Post-cleansing? Apply a professionally prescribed powerhouse serum, followed by a minimalist, barrier-replenishing moisturiser. In the AM, be sure to apply a broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen, as the last step in your (year-round) routine prior to makeup. It’s estimated that 90% of ageing results from harmful (cancer-causing) UV exposure. Deep dive cleansing fundamentals to maintain a healthy, radiant-looking complexion unveiled. Take the plunge. ■

Have you met...

JASON BRANIGAN

The National Face Designer for Giorgio Armani Australia shares his creative and career advice, as well his best insider beauty tips and tricks.

By Michelle Ruzzene

HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP?

When I was younger I was always so in awe of my mum and aunts applying their makeup. Seeing them play with colour and the confidence they embodied always felt so magical to me. When I moved to Sydney I started playing with makeup myself; leaning into that creative expression and bringing out that inner confidence in myself. Now I love to share that confidence and creativity with others.

WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR SKILLS?

I studied a Diploma in Specialist Makeup Services in Sydney over a decade ago. I wanted to explore the many facets of the makeup industry from special effects to bridal beauty – not quite sure where I would land. Over the years I’ve fallen in love with hosting beauty events in the retail space as well as creating fashion inspired looks for shoots and the runway.

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE?

Every day is so different – that’s why I love it! I am very fortunate in my career to have had many opportunities to travel and meet amazing creative people. One week I am shooting some local brand content, followed by hosting a beauty masterclass; and the next week I am attending a L’Oréal event and coaching our team in store to help improve their artistry skills. No two weeks are ever the same –the joy of being an artist!

HOW DID YOU START WORKING FOR L’ORÉAL?

I began my career with L’Oréal back in 2017 as NSW state makeup artist at YSL Beauty. Over the years I have had some amazing opportunities to work with many of the L’Oréal brands.

MOST REWARDING PART OF THE JOB?

100 per cent sharing tips and tricks! Going home at the end of the day knowing I have inspired someone to get creative or shared a tip that helps them feel more confident in their beauty routine still gives me that warm fuzzy feeling all these years later.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN BEAUTY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?

I was recently asked this question and honestly have absolutely no idea where I would be if I had not fallen in love with makeup. When I was growing up I really wanted to be a zoo keeper and had a fascination with animals so maybe you would find me at the zoo.

YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

Wow, great question. Pat McGrath is a huge standout for me on the global stage. I also love listening to Giorgio Armani International Makeup Artist Linda Cantello; the way Linda talks about texture, colour and artistry always leaves me feeling inspired to get creative.

YOUR ADVICE TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Practice and play; it is the best way to learn. When I first started working in beauty I loved to try lots of different combinations and would always try the colours that everyone else moved away from. Working in retail also gave me the opportunity to work with so many different clients.

YOUR GO-TO AUTUMN BEAUTY LOOK?

I love a tonal monochromatic look for Autumn. Utilising the same colour on the lip and cheek for a soft flushed look. One of my go to products is Armani Beauty Lip Maestro; the velvet texture blends beautifully into the cheek. Some great Autumn shades of lip maestro are 206, 500 and 501.

ONE PRODUCT YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT?

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation of course! I keep it stocked up in my makeup kit as well as in my personal beauty bag. I find it really easy to work with and the finish really emulates the lit from within glow. From everyday makeup to bridal glam – it is hands down my makeup must have.

THE WORST MAKEUP FAUX PAS?

People with dry skin using lots of powder! Keep your skin nice and hydrated and ease up on the powder - especially in dry skin areas.

YOUR TOP MAKEUP TIPS?

Take some time to prep the skin and ensure the skin is nice and hydrated before we pick up that foundation. I also love to use a small amount of concealer on a fluffy brush right at the end to brighten the under eyes. ■

Armani Beauty Lip Maestro and some favourite Autumn Shades

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation

The makeup trendsset to be in 2023

What, How, Why, When…

By Michael Brown

Trends’ is a big word in fashion and beauty, but I feel in the past 12 months I’m constantly hearing it more and more within the beauty space, mainly because of the rise of TikTok and now absolutely anyone (with a large enough following) can create a new viral trend - its wild!

I have been around a long time, with more than 20 years working in the beauty industry under my belt. From working with brands, to training hundreds of staff all across Australia and South East Asia, regular media

appearance and, of course, countless makeup artistry roles across TV, fashion and celebrity, I have come across my fair share of trends.

But for me, they have always come from runways and red carpets around the world, worn by very high-profile people, which then get shared to the world via many publications, such as Vogue, or these days via social media.

The techniques that are reputable, reliable, relatable and usually easily adaptable into someone’s own beauty routine were always the ones that turned into a trend.

THE NEW TREND NORMAL

I personally do not have TikTok, this 41 year old feels it’s just too much work and another app we have to learn and commit to. Plus my co-host of our Skinfluence podcast, Alisha, informs me of these TikTok trends regularly, so I feel I’m across them (kind of).

What I am noticing is, these trends are coming from anyone and I am always asking, ‘Well, who said it’s a trend? Where’s the news article to support it? What celebrity wore it?’

Then I feel silly, not knowing at all who this (apparently huge) TikToker is, who is telling everyone there is a new big trend.

Yes, I may be old school, but there is a new trend pretty much everyday now. If I am confused, someone who is in the industry and knows makeup artistry very well, how do regular consumers keep up? And the thousands of beauty advisors who have to also know what’s ‘trending’ in case a customer asks about it in-store, or wants it applied to them?

Sometimes it can be very tricky, as a lot of the time trends are marketed or designed for a certain look or beauty image, probably not suiting the majority of people asking for it.

HOW TO SPOT A TREND

You know a trend is big when it goes viral, and I don’t mean just on social media. When publications start picking them up and writing about the so-called trend, it tends to gain so much momentum - everyone then wants to try it. You know a trend is BIG though, when brands start producing products directly marketed towards that trend. It means the trend will have longevity (as it obviously can take a while for the brands to produce/test such products, to then launch to public) and also means the trend is relatable to a large number of consumers, to therefore benefit their ROI (return on investment).

The first big one I noticed was the rise of the BB cream. It was huge and every brand launched one back in the day. We’ve also seen the rise of the fluffy brows - all brands cater for that now with a full wardrobe of brow products, especially gels and soaps to get that ‘fluffy’ look.

We even saw freckle-inspired products. Not as many big brands jumped on board, but it was definitely a youth trend with many celebrities admitting they apply freckles over their foundation, to create a transparent youthful appearance.

Lastly, glass skin - we still talk about it and many products have been designed for that look even though it was talked about mainly back in 2018.

But trends in the past, coming mainly from fashion runways and red carpets (think graphic liner, monochrome eyes, fresh blush, bold lips) did mean they were mostly relatable to mass consumers.

However, the rise of the TikToker has taken trends to another level and so many leave me confused and asking ‘Why?’ such as enhancing dark shadows under our eyes and bleaching our brows which gives the face no shape. Why is ‘Ghoul Girl’ cool again? Please say no to thin brows, no colour in our faces and gaunt cheeks!

It’s important to think of trends in today’s world as a bit of fun, experimental, creative and obviously mainly made for social media post views and likes. Take from it what you will, but it’s not gospel when a 19-year-old random is telling you it’s the latest and greatest.

“...the rise of the TikToker has taken trends to another level and so many leave me confused and asking ‘Why?’such as enhancing dark shadows under our eyes and bleaching our brows which gives the face no shape.”

Rihanna rocking thin eyebrows on the cover of British Vogue. Image @britishvogue

Amelia Gray rocking the Ghoul Girl trend. @ameliagray.

TOP TRENDS FOR 2023

Before I get into the When, Who, Why on trends, here are some predicted trends for 2023 – but don’t worry, nothing crazy from TikTok, just general beauty trends that are shared from publications and beauty editors.

Skin Like Foundation

Continuing the no makeup/makeup trend, we are seeing an even bigger pushing to bare faces. Skincare like tints are IN. Dewy, fresh, less matte full coverage skin is all the rage.

Shadow Winged Liner

We saw a big rise in winged liner in recent times, and this is still a thing. It really can define and elongate the eyes, but rather than struggling with a liquid liner, we are seeing more of a ‘lived in’ eyeshadow applied wing, allowing for a little less polish and more ease in application.

Vinyl Lips

YAY! I personally am over the matte, dry lip look. Yes, we have come a long way when it comes to matte textures, but unless your lips are so juicy and hydrated, a matte can look too dry. Swap instead for big, bold, juicy, fresh and shiny lips.

Brows

Brows are always on trend lists, lately for big, fluffy, gel and soap brows being a ‘thing’. But thin brows are slightly creeping in, thanks to the 90’s comeback, but for me it’s not necessarily going thinner, just a more accentuated arch.

A nod to the 90’s

I’m not saying go the full Ghoul Girl trend, as seen on TikTok, but less ‘pretty’ and ‘sparkly’ makeup is a thing. We were obsessed with the TV show Euphoria beauty last year with face embellishments and metallic eyes, which had a pretty, cool-girl vibe, now we are seeing a lived-in, smudged black liner, and raw fresh skin - think Kate Moss or Courtney Love in the nineties.

Lashes, on Lashes

With a big decline in false lashes and eyelash extensions (thank God), we are still seeing big, thick, almost chunky lashes, created with mascara. Using a double or triple layer technique, build up big thickness.

Hyper glow skin

We know that the super raw, fresh-faced, tint like skin is in and we are seeing way less contour and bronzer used in makeup trends. The glow factor we all love hasn’t changed, well in terms of placement – on an area you want to enhance and bring forward – it’s the textures that have changed. Powder highlights are out, unless they are super fresh, creamy-like and no shimmer. Fresh, mirror like, reflective but less shimmer is in to make skin look transparent and glassy.

SO, WHEN?

You can try a trend anytime, there is no limits, but pick one to try at a time and preferably not right before a big event –you want to know it works for you first and practice makes perfect.

WHO?

Anyone can try a trend. There is a lot to unpack when you read about multiple trends, like the ones above. Some will have no impact or interest in your personal beauty style.

Some you may be doing already, but could be tweaked to get best results. Pick one and go for it, master the one trend, before going into any others that may interest you.

WHY?

A trend is just a little hype on a certain part of the face to really get you thinking outside the box. They won’t suit everyone and definitely should be adapted accordingly to your skin type, tone, face structure and personal beauty style.

It’s a fun way to make sure you don’t get stuck in a rut and keep the same look for 20 years - nothing wrong with that, but by at least trying a couple that interest you, it may be the look that you love more, or keeps your look fresher and younger. Give it a go! ■

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au

01. Revlon Ultra HD Vinyl Lip Polish. Image www. revlonanz.com 02. Hailey Bieber is a fan of the Shadow Winged Liner. @haileybieber.

“We are seeing more of a ‘lived in’ eyeshadow applied wing, allowing for a little less polish and more ease in application.”

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Retail Beauty is an essential tool for brands and retailers to educate, inspire and support their sales force – and ultimately sell more products. Retail Beauty is the go-to for the wider beauty industry to stay on top of global and local trends, news and launches. We communicate directly and daily to key industry professionals and decision makers.

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THE APPETITE FOR VEGAN MAKEUP

Ten years ago, you would be hard-pressed to find a truly vegan friendly makeup product that performed as good as more traditional non-vegan formulas. A lot of the times, you would have had to resort to “hippie” or “cottage-house brands” using mineral based formulas that might not have been tested as rigorously as “mainstream brands”. It was almost a hit and miss situation trying to find vegan makeup that would perform just as well.

Fast forward to today, as veganism is becoming more mainstream, the vegan beauty industry is booming, and makeup is leading the way. Not only does vegan makeup have to be cruelty-free, but it also has to be formulated without the use of ingredients such as beeswax, lanolin and carmine. Instead, these products use plant-based alternatives, such as coconut oil or cocoa butter, to create the same effects. Additionally, many vegan makeup products are also free of other common irritants, such as parabens and sulfates, making them a great choice for those with sensitive skin.

To keep pace with consumer demand, more and more brands are creating new vegan formulas - some with innovative ingredients that mimic animal-based substances so that they’re indistinguishable from their non-vegan counterparts.

Vegan makeup products are broadly defined as being “free from animal ingredients”. The world of makeup is changing with an increasing number of people becoming aware of the ethical issues surrounding animal testing, and also looking for ways to get better value for money. Vegan cosmetics offer a solution to both these concerns.

2019 was dubbed “the year of the vegan” by The Economist. The Economist

credited millennials and Gen Z-ers with “ a quarter of 25- to 34-year-old Americans say they are vegans or vegetarians”. This vegan lifestyle isn’t just limited to food products but also extends to what they wear and the type of cosmetics/skincare they use. According to an article by Finder “How many vegetarians and vegans are in the UK”, 14 per cent of the adults in the UK are adopting a vegan diet and as many as 43 per cent of Gen Z in the UK are planning on becoming vegetarians in 2023.

This trend can also be evidenced by a market analysis report by Grand View Research titled “Vegan Cosmetics Market Size, Share & Trend Analysis Report by Product (Skin Care, Hair Care, Color Cosmetics), By Distribution Channel (Hypermarkets & Supermarkets, Specialty Stores, E-Commerce), By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 20222030”. According to this study, the global vegan cosmetics market size was valued at USD15.17 ($21.8 billion)_billion in 2021 and is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.3% from 2022 to 2030 ”

With growing customer demand, we are seeing large mainstream brands, such as Clarins, coming out with vegan-friendly lines of makeup with their My Clarins range. It took several years for the R&D team at Clarins to develop the range.

My Clarins products do not contain any raw ingredients of animal origins, and have not been tested on animals. According to Clarins, where some countries still require animal testing by local authorities to validate the safety of cosmetic formulas, Clarins have chosen not to market the My Clarins line in those countries. Clarins uses the latest advances in non-animal safety testing all through the product manufacturing, from the choice of ingredients to the final product.

Brands like The Body Shop are committed to going 100 cent vegan by December 2023. The Body Shop states “By December 2023, we aim to have all our product formulas certified by The Vegan Society. It is possible that old formulations which have not been certified by The Vegan Society may still be present in the

market at that point, as those products are being sold through.”

So, does it look like brands are heading toward the “100 per cent vegan” route? Currently, it seems unlikely. According to Anne Salem, Head of Makeup Artistry for Clarins, whille there is space for veganfriendly products in the market, there will also always be space for non-vegan traditional products. This is broadly due to customer demand.

This is true as we have seen some vegan brands like Bite Beauty and Vapour Beauty discontinuing their brands in 2022. On the other hand, we still see vegan-friendly brands like The Body Shop, KVD Beauty and Kosas surging ahead with new product launches and reformulated products.

According to Jeanne Chavez, co-founder of about face Beauty, a vegan makeup brand specifically formulated to be long-lasting, it boils down to each brand’s commitment to veganism and the demands they place on their production partners to achieve highquality, long-lasting vegan formulas.

A Google Trends search for ‘Vegan Makeup’ brings up trending vegan brands like Milk Makeup and Rare Beauty. Some large retailers like Sephora and Mecca have also taken up the vegan banner by offering a wide range of vegan makeup and brands alongside more mainstream brands.

So as long as there is a growing customer base for vegan cosmetics, we can expect that there will be more vegan-friendly brands or product ranges emerging to fulfil that demand. ■

By Tashi Jade Bell, @paint_bytashijadebell www.paintbytashijadebell.com

Vegan Makeup has come a long way as the demand for vegan makeup is on the rise. Manufacturers are responding with new formulas and a longer lasting finish, but what does this mean to consumers? And will the demand for vegan cosmetics continue?

by Tashi Jade Bell

My Clarins products do not contain any raw ingredients of animal origins, and have not been tested on animals.

NATURAL

preservatives

FOR COSMETICS

By Kimberly Shenk, founder of Novi

There are so many different ingredients and suppliers out there, choosing the best natural preservatives for your cosmetic brand can be a daunting task. Making sure you understand the ingredients that go into your products that benefit your brand, customers, and the environment are essential.

WHAT ARE NATURAL PRESERVATIVES FOR COSMETICS?

Natural preservatives for cosmetics are natural ingredients that prevent the product from prematurely spoiling. They are necessary to include because consumers typically want a product that can last for months, without microbial or bacterial growth. Sodium Benzoate and sorbic acid are the most popular natural preservatives in most cosmetic products. These ingredients are typically extracted from plants or fruits to create various skincare products, makeup, and perfumes. Other natural preservatives include potassium sorbate, phenylethyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid. Of course, one particular natural preservative won’t work for every product. The different properties of these ingredients determine if they’re

better suited to a cream, powder product, or lip product. When brands understand the impact of natural preservatives in their formula, they can create products that are kinder to the environment, lasts longer, and eliminates health hazards.

DO ALL COSMETICS NEED PRESERVATIVES?

Contrary to popular belief, not all cosmetics need preservatives to be safe for consumer use. Most oil-based, acidic, high-alcohol, and aerosol products do not need preservatives to have a long useful life. Examples of these products include body butter, spray deodorants, and body balms. Even though these products don’t always require preservatives, they must contain an ingredient that helps maintain product quality. This will often be the case for products that come into frequent contact with water, like body scrubs or face washes. Water-based products such as moisturisers and shampoos need preservatives to preserve their useful life and prevent mold

or bacteria growth. There are two types of natural preservatives - antimicrobial and antioxidant preservatives.

Antimicrobial Preservatives

Antimicrobial preservatives prevent bacteria, mold, and yeast from growing in a cosmetic product. This is perfect for waterbased products because mold, bacteria, and yeast need a moist environment to thrive.

Antioxidant Preservatives

Antioxidants prevent oxidation but are not preservatives on their own. Oxidation is the chemical reaction when a substance comes in contact with oxygen. Formulators must combine antioxidants with antimicrobial preservatives. For example, oil-based products may become spoiled and rancid quickly if there is no antioxidant to prevent oxidation from happening. Brands should know which preservatives they use and how these preservatives assist with extending a product’s shelf life. If formulators don’t use them correctly, they could create a product that’ll spoil quickly and be unsafe to use.

Whether you’re an upcoming indie brand or an existing cosmetic brand wanting to switch to natural preservatives in your products, here is the ultimate guide to help you to make an informed decision.

Citric acid is a renowned natural preservative that has many cosmetic benefits.

WHY USE NATURAL PRESERVATIVES?

There’s a common misconception that natural preservatives and ingredients are superior to synthetic materials. This is not always the case—the truth is, natural preservatives simply haven’t undergone as much testing as synthetic ones. Some natural preservatives may trigger allergic reactions. In contrast, synthetic preservatives may be safer because the industry has been testing them for decades. In sum, “natural” does not mean “safer.” Natural preservatives simply provide formulators alternatives to synthetic preservatives. If a brand’s story focuses more on botanicals and plant-based ingredients, they may decide to use natural preservatives.

TIPS FOR FORMULATING BEAUTY PRODUCTS WITH NATURAL PRESERVATIVES

There are many things to consider and look out for when formulating beauty products. Here’s an established list of a few essential tips to make this process easier.

• Decide whether a product will be water-soluble or oil-soluble. This will determine whether you need only antimicrobial preservatives or if you need to include antioxidant preservatives too.

• Decide what the pH range of the product will be. The pH level is essential to determine because the natural preservatives you add will have to work with the pH in your product to have a long shelf-life.

• Ensure the preservative is compatible with the rest of the ingredients in the product. If this is not possible, formulators will have a product that will likely spoil or harm consumers.

• Ensure the cosmetic formulas are stable. It can spoil or disintegrate when unstable.

WHAT IS THE BEST NATURAL PRESERVATIVE FOR COSMETICS?

So, now we approach the most crucial question: what is the best natural preservative for cosmetics? It’s entirely up to what the product formulators want to create and what the product should achieve.

Here are a few recommendations on safe, natural preservatives to use in cosmetics.

• Citric Acid - Citric acid is an organic acid derived from any citrus fruits like lemons and limes. It’s a renowned natural preservative that has many cosmetic benefits. Not only does it preserve the quality of the product, but it also has excellent uses for the skin and hair. It also prevents ingredients from separating, and acts as an exfoliant.

• Geogard ECT - Geogard ECT is a natural, broad-spectrum preservative. This means it includes a few preservatives and has a broad pH range, so it doesn’t need to be used with other preservatives. It includes benzyl alcohol,

salicylic acid, glycerin, and sorbic acid. It’s prevalent in scrubs because salicylic acid acts as an exfoliant.

• Optiphen BS - Optiphen BS is a natural microbial preservative that includes sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate. It works best in products with a low pH; 5.4 or below is ideal. When formulators use it in products with a low pH, it improves the efficacy of the product.

• Propylene Glycol - Propylene glycol is a popular natural preservative for water-based products. It prevents the growth of microorganisms because it is an antimicrobial preservative. Its other benefits include being a great moisturizer and making other ingredients more effective because it helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. However, it can be an irritant to people with sensitive skin. Keep in mind that the ingredients listed above are only recommendations. It would be best if formulators did more research on other natural preservatives so that their product meets the brand’s standards.

• Include preservative boosters in formulas. Boosters improve a product’s efficacy, destabilising the microorganisms infecting the product so that preservatives can easily penetrate them.

• All brands should strive towards being sustainable. Natural preservatives can be as effective as synthetic preservatives. So, there’s no need to hesitate to use natural preservatives in cosmetic products. ■

Novi helps brands build sustainable products through a data-rich network of suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers. www.noviconnect.com

The pH level is essential to determine because the natural preservatives you add will have to work with the pH in your product to have a long shelf-life.

Novi founder Kimberly Shenk.

pretty Thrifty

Is your New Year’s resolution ‘To Save Big In 2023’? Can you save money but still maintain the beauty habits that you already have? Over the Christmas and New Year break, I had countless conversations with followers and friends about this topic. These are some of the tips I shared with them:

HAVE AN INVENTORY LIST

The benefit of starting this list is a great way of tracking your spending, knowing what shades you have got to avoid unnecessary purchases and keeping in mind the expiry dates. You can either type them down, or simply start a new phone album for all the beauty purchases by taking a picture of the receipt with the package before unboxing.

USE EVERY LAST BIT OF THE PRODUCTS

It was only a few years ago, when I learned to recycle by cutting the tubes and use up all what’s left inside, that I realised how much product I had wasted in the past. The amount left sometimes could lead to another week’s usage. Thanks to all the cosmetic companies educating consumers on recycling, we are now more conscious about this.

BE MINDFUL OF THE VALUE YOU ARE GETTING

In general, jumbo sizes are better value. And be aware of the multi-purposed items. Not only they are a money saver, but also a time saver!

AVOID DOUBLING UP

Search if there’s anything else that you can use instead of buying something new. Always go through the key ingredient list so the skin gets just the right amount and enough benefits from a cocktail of ingredients. And ensure the products work together to enhance the results.

LEARN APPROPRIATE APPLICATION TECHNIQUES

I saved so much liquid foundation when I stopped applying it all over my face, I instead used concealer and only added it to the areas needed. I also got into a habit of using shades that are too fair to be my highlighters and shades that are too dark to be the contours. Or I simply mix them on the back of my hand to get the right shade. Over the New Year holidays, while going through all the 2023 makeup trends, I also went through my eyeshadow palettes collection. I cleaned them and matched them the wardrobe items that I wear more

often. I found so many unused shades that can be utilised again.

DON’T FOLLOW THE TRENDS BLINDLY

I am not telling you to stop following them. But only adapt to what works for you, and ignore the rest. Stop spending impulsively.

BUY DUPES

I am the ‘When you find what’s right for you, stay with it’ kind of person but lots of people have asked me about dupes of highend beauty brands. I often reply by asking them how much they use their products each day. And I’m always shocked at how many people over-apply them – stop using so much product! . It is sad if we have to stop buying something since we no longer able to afford it. But it doesn’t mean we are downgrading our lifestyle. Dupes may be the best option. The easiest way to find one is to compare the product features and ingredients list, and read online reviews.

DE-CLUTTER YOUR INBOX AND JOIN SAMPLING PROGRAMS

If you never bother opening an email newsletter, simply unsubscribe from this list. If you want to hear less, than select carefully from the options at the end of

Beauty on a Budget. Icy Ling’s MoneySaving Beauty Tips.

the email and when you are signing up to receive a newsletter. With samples, I always ask the sales assistant very carefully and thank them for the generosity. However, I don’t take samples that I don’t use or already have. Instead, I ask if I could try samples of a product that I’m genuinely interested in. Complexion samples are great for testing shades and textures. Skincare samples are great for testing sensitivities. A lot of people abuse the sampling program at cosmetic counters. But if you do take this opportunity seriously, you will gain respect, and end up getting the right products and avoid wasting money. Don’t be shy to enquire about events and how to be invited. Beauty events are a great way of getting to connect to a consultant to assist in the future, meeting new friends and learning application techniques. Most of the payments are redeemable on purchases, including facials. But the knowledge we get and new friends we make from attending those events is what money can’t buy.

SHOP ONLINE AND GET EVERYTHING IN ONE TRANSACTION.

This way you can take the advantage of free-shipping option and/or receive a gift

with purchase. Instead of buying items one by one, just get everything in one go, you may also receive more samples or an extra gift.

EXCHANGE BEAUTY PRODUCTS

Next time when you are hosting a home party, ask each guest to bring unwanted products to exchange with other guests. Allow 20 minutes at the dining table to be your ‘beauty moments’ when everyone can share their tips. Trust me, beauty topics help girls to bond quickly!

BE MINDFUL OF ADDITIONAL COSTS

Don’t forget, sometimes when you ask a friend to go shopping with you, you often spend money on coffee and lunch. Plus, there’s the transportation cost and the parking. Next time when you are planning to go for a brunch with your bestie, ask if she has time to also go shopping with you. Have fun trying on lipsticks and testing fragrances together and you will also get that second opinion.

RESET THE SPENDING RATIO

Let’s face it, looking good and feeling good all the time can be expensive. But if you

are seriously considering cutting of your beauty budget this year, you can reset your spending ratio. Have you heard of the 50-30-20 spending rule? 50 per cent of the income after tax should be spent on needs, 30 per cent on wants and 20 per cent should go towards savings. Apply it to your beauty spending and divvy it up even more. Recently I have been telling myself that relying on makeup is not the ultimate goal. Time to twist the beauty desire by spending more on skincare, eating more healthily, turning off the phone to add more time for beauty sleep and using smart devices to create content, read or learn new languages rather than browsing sales catalogues on public transport.

RANK YOUR PRODUCTS

For skincare new purchase and repurchase, this is my ranking of priorities: basics and daily essentials first, followed by prevention, then repairing and problem fixers. Remember, products that can prevent future and environmental damage, that are rich in anti-oxidants, are also important. I see them as part of a future investment of oneself.

NO EXCUSES

My last tip to share with you, is what I have been doing - stop finding excuses to spend money. It may sound reasonable to get a new fragrance or a new lipstick when you start dating someone. But is it all necessary? Will he actually notice the difference? Plus you don’t need to make a change to make him like you! This year I have decided to cut-off my self-rewarding budget on beauty and fashion products. Don’t you think it just another therapeutic excuse to spend? And it also sets a mindset that ‘I worked hard so I deserve a new lipstick’. Instead, I am willing to tell myself that ‘I work hard for my own good and brighter future’. Feeling good after a new goal is achieved is a self-reward, it doesn’t always have to be paid for.

With living costs going up, less income, or having a new baby (congratulations), where does the money go? Saving reasonably is always encouraged. But as I said, spending less doesn’t always mean a downgrade. It may simply because you have found something more meaningful. Brands do want to sell products, but they never want to makie you feel less beautiful if you don’t have sufficient money to enjoy life. Do whatever makes you comfortable! A happier beauty is a true beauty!

@icybutterfly

Out & About

FIRM AND PLUMP

Skincare was combined with exercise at a Clarins collab that was all about firming. For two days only Clarins took over the Bodylove Pilates The Penthouse studio to offer a series of Reformer Pilates classes, alongside a wellness space incorporating skincare, relaxation and nutrition. Guests were able to book one of a series of 45-minute Reformer Pilates Open Flow classes across the two days and take home a wellness kit of resistance band and pilates socks, as well as samples of Clarins’ Extra-Firming Day Cream, a daily, anti-ageing moisturiser designed to firm and plump, and Extra-Firming Night Cream, a bedtime moisturiser designed to hydrate and renew. www.clarins.com.au

BOTANICAL 10TH BIRTHDAY

Founded by Queenslander Jacine Greenwood from her kitchen table, Roccoco Botanicals was the only beauty business in the AFR Fast 100 in 2021. Roccoco Botanicals Ruby Crystal Cleanser won the Most Innovative Product award at the prestigious C&T Alle awards in New York in late 2022. At the brand’s 10th birthday celebration event, held over breakfast at Chiswick, Jacine said she was looking forward to launching a new indigenous range featuring native Australian botanicals this year. She said the brand was also expanding into Canada and the UK and she had penned a deal with the Kuwaiti Royal family for a new perfume to be sold by Sephora. https://au.roccoco.com

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty.

01. Robyn Foyster and Jacine Greenwood. 02. Guests chat over breakfast. 03. Roccoco Botanicals products on show.

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01. Guests indulge in wellness. 02. Pilates class in action. 03. It was all about firming.

ENDLESS SUMMER

Summer Fridays launched in 2018 with a single, very Instagrammable SKU product: The Jet Lag Mask. The US brand soon developed a cult following and L.A.-based influencer founders Marianna Hewitt and Lauren Ireland recently celebrated Summer Fridays’ fourth birthday. Lauren touched down in Australia for an intimate event at Icebergs to coincide with the launch of their Light Aura Eye Cream and Sheer Skin Tint, available now at Mecca. https://summerfridays.com

MEMBERS FOR LIFE

Industry leaders past and present gathered in Melbourne to celebrate the careers of Gillian Franklin and Peter Keech and their awards of Life Membership of Accord.

Celebrating over dinner and drinks at Bottega Restaurant, guests of honour and members of the Accord team were joined by current Board Directors and other industry leaders including Graeme Howard, former Managing Director of Revlon and Accord Life Member.

Gillian Franklin founded The Heat Group in 2000 and was its former Managing Director. She was a member of the Accord Board of Directors for 15+ years.

“Gillian has been a strong and passionate advocate for the cosmetic and fragrance sector and Accord,” Bronwyn Capanna, Accord Executive Director, said. “She has been an entrepreneur and trailblazer for women in business.”

Peter, former owner and Managing Director of Tasman Chemicals, was Chair of the Accord Board during the crucial time when the cosmetic industry association (CTFA) merged with the chemical specialties association (ACSPA) to form Accord.

“Peter was an integral part of the success and vision for Accord, and without his significant contributions and inclusive industry leadership style, Accord would not be where it is today,” Bronwyn said.

Life membership is awarded to an industry leader who has made a significant contribution to Accord and who has retired from the industry. Other Life Members of Accord in the cosmetic sector are Terry Little (formerly Estée Lauder Companies), Chris Pedersen (formerly ColgatePalmolive Australia) and Gavin Blackburn (formerly Coty).

Congratulations Gillian and Peter on such fabulous careers and contribution to the industry. https://accord.asn.au

From left Peter Keech, Gillian Franklin, Bronwyn Capanna and Graeme Howard.

01. Lauren Ireland.

02. Elle Ferguson.

03. A guest is shade matched.

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WHAT THE FLUFF?

To celebrate the launch of Benefit Fluff Up Brow Wax, the brand held a Fluffy Pink Palace Party at The Island complete with a DJ, cocktails and drag queens. Samantha Tonkin, Benefit National Brow Artist and Beauty Expert, spoke about the benefits of the waterproof product including its natural matte finish and 12-hour longwear. Benefit is owned by LVMH. www.benefitcosmetics.com

SKIN HYDRATION

QV Ceramides uses the latest technology to help revitalise the skin’s look and feel and is suitable for those with eczema-prone and acne prone skin. The new range’s formula of triple ceramides, glycerin and niacinamide helps to support the skin’s barrier for a fresh, glowing complexion. Available in three new products; QV Ceramides Cleanser, QV Ceramides Lotion, and QV Ceramides Cream, the range provides 24-hour hydration and moisturisation to the skin. The QV Ceramides range was officially launched at Oxford House, Paddington.

Photos by @studiolatessa.

01. Dr Deshan Sebaratnam chats with Tayla Broa

02. Kira Torpy, Laura Lock and Iro Trimmer.

03. Janelle Han and Alyssa Barmonde.

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01. Benefit National Brow Artist Samantha Tonkin.

02. Guests in drag.

03. Benefit GM Oceania Kevin Le Bourdonnec.

CULT FAVOURITE

Sisley Paris launched its Ecological Compound Advanced Formula, which is now enriched with two new key ingredients –burdock and meadowsweet extracts. The new formulation targets the microbiome – the essential role of the microorganisms in the skin’s balance, and innate immunity – the ability for the skin to defend itself. Sisley Paris Regional Managing Director for Asia Pacific, Nicolas Chesnier, travelled to Australia for the launch. He was joined by Sisley Paris ANZ General Manager Irene Robinson and National Trainer ANZ April Roberts. www.sisley-paris.com

BEST IN BEAUTY

The TVSN Beauty Bazaar showcased the latest innovative beauty products on offer across the shopping network’s skincare, haircare, cosmetics and tool categories. Now in its eighth year, the immersive experience included live demonstrations, product sampling and guest appearances from world-renowned industry professionals including celebrity makeup artist and founder of Mally Beauty Cosmetics Mally Roncal, The Jojoba Company founder Vicki Engsall, Edible Beauty founder Anna Mitsios and celebrity hairstylist and founder of Elevate Sharon Blaine. Brands on show included L’Occitane, Lancer Skincare, Nassif MD, Elizabeth Grant, Eve Pearl, The Beauty Chef, PUR Cosmetics and more. www.itvsn.com.au

01. Anna Mitsios, Edible Beauty founder.

02. Judy Deuchar (second from right), TVSN CEO

03. Teresa Love and Vicki Engsall, The Jojoba Company founder.

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Images @studiolatessa.

01 From left: Sisley Paris Regional Managing Director for Asia Pacific Nicolas Chesnier, Sisley Paris ANZ General Manager Irene Robinson and National Trainer ANZ April Roberts.

02. Icy Ling and Jessica Yue.

03. Kate Stansberry, Buying Manager at David Jones.

Sustainable swab

LastObject has launched its latest sustainable beauty product. LastSwab Trio Pro is a set of three reusable cotton swabs, each with a different tip, to cover all Q-Tip needs — from smudging and blending to correcting mistakes and fluffing eyebrows. It’s the ultimate kit to add to any beauty routine, and will help reduce the 1.5 billion cotton swabs that are produced daily to be thrown away after just one use. The kit includes swabs with different tips in a black case made from recycled Ocean Bound Plastic, which are easily cleaned with soap and water. Each one replaces 1,000 single-use swabs. It was awarded the Best Breakthrough Product prize in BeautyMatter’s inaugural NEXT Awards last year. https://lastobject.com/en-au

Silky self care

Founded in 2020 during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, owner of Coverluxesilk and young entrepreneur Sophia Hidalgo had a vision - to offer luxurious beauty products that offer professional results at-home. Whether it was switching out eyelash extensions for a growth serum or a typical in-salon hair appointment for a hair lightener - Sophia wanted to offer salonworthy results at-home. With a focus on self-love, self-care, beauty, health and wellness, Coverluxesilk has secured its foothold in the beauty industry with its three best-selling products: The Lighten Luxe Heat Activated Hair Lightener, the Lash Luxe Advanced Eyelash Growth Serum and their range of 100 per cent Luxurious Silk Pillowcases. https://coverluxesilk.com

Skin boost

Inika has launched a new Serum and Booster range. The serums are designed to mix into masks and creams to add benefits to a favourite, or use them alone to target specific skin concerns. They include the Hyaluronic Hydration Complex which minimises the appearance of fine lines and helps skin stay hydrated and plump, Bakuchiol Serum, a natural, gentle and effective alternative to retinol which accelerates cellular turnover to refine the appearance of fine lines, and Kakadu Plum vitamin C Booster to reduce pigmentation, increase elasticity and boost collagen production. www.inikaorganic.com

Inner, outer and aura

Carefully curated and developed over the last five years by Aje co-founder Adrian Norris, Ikkari looks to cut out the confusion surrounding skincare and wellness providing consumers with simple, transparent, honest and clean beauty products. The 71-strong collection offers a suite of ingestible supplements, topical skincare essentials and aromatherapy solutions, including a series of protocols intended to support those seeking transformation through physical, emotional and spiritual health. Ikkari believes in using high-performance ingredients with minimal interference to ensure they’re as naturally adjacent as possible - only using intentionally sourced ingredients and leaving out anything that isn’t necessary. https://ikkari.com.au

Magic of the mangosteen

Melio Skincare has launched its first beauty product – a serum made from 90 per cent natural ingredients, including homegrown hero ingredient mangosteen. Grown locally in far-North Queensland, Mangosteen is a native product and a new ingredient entering the beauty market loaded with antioxidants, antibacterial and antiinflammatory benefits. With the ability to combat skin inflammation, eliminate acne, and soothe irritated skin whilst creating a healthylooking complexion, Melio’s serum will be the first in a line of new products with a genderless skincare mission. https://melioskincare.com

Face fit

Fitcover’s founder, Nova Jane, has been in the business of marrying fitness and cosmetics for over five years with her sweatproof, waterproof, and cruelty-free makeup brand. She wanted to bring out the perfect protecting base to add to the range, which resulted in the launch of the GlowRunner Hydrating Tinted Sunscreen SPF 50. With only a total of 17 ingredients, the GlowRunner combines the nourishing qualities of skincare, the protection of sunscreen, and the natural glow from a tint. The mineral sunscreen is vegan, crueltyfree, reef-safe, ocean-friendly, fragrance-free and Australian-made. https://fitcover.com

Advertiser index

BioPhysics

Front and back cover, Pages 12-13 https://biophysicsgroup.com

Bio-Oil

Pages 4-5 www.bio-oil.com.au

Look Good Feel Better

Pages 38-39 https://lgfb.org.au/

Natio Inside front cover, www.natio.com.au

Naturally Good Page 11 https://naturallygood.com.au

Provoke

Pages 6-7 www.chemcorp.com.au

Runway Room

Pages 28-29 www.runwayroom.com

Shea Moisture

Inside back cover, www.chemcorp.com.au