Retail Beauty 71 Autumn 2022 by The Intermedia Group

71 AUTUMN 2022

EYES ON THE FUTURE 1000HOUR CELEBRATES 30 YEARS

COMEBACK OF COLOUR Why makeup is having a moment Your Guide to APP2022

AUSTRALIA’S BIGGEST PHARMACY CONFERENCE

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Some of our pharmacy beauty favourites shot with photographer Brandee Meier.

“As consumers continue their exodus from isolation after the current wave of the Omicron strain, trade shows, expos and events are quickly filling up the calendar.”

Omicron and onwards Welcome to the first issue of Retail Beauty for 2022. I write this from my bedroom still recovering from Covid-19. I was struck down with the virus after returning from a holiday in Queensland, and yes, I had received my booster shot about six weeks beforehand. My husband succumbed to it soon after, as did my two children, who both missed the first week of school. I certainly know a lot more people now that have had the virus that haven’t had it. My parents, my sister and her family, friends and work colleagues. It seems Omicron, with its extraordinary transmissibility, ultimately has touched just about everybody. Thankfully, I don’t know anyone that has suffered anything more than flu-like symptoms. And my main feelings now? Absolute relief. I was so worried about actually getting coronavirus that I wasn’t ever enjoying myself fully in social situations. The intolerance of uncertainty was getting me down. It wasn’t a question of I was going to get Covid-19, but when. As this crisis drags into its third year, many Australians are no longer willing to let the pandemic interfere with their lives. As consumers continue their exodus from isolation after the current wave of the Omicron strain, trade shows, expos and events are quickly filling up the calendar. One not to miss is APP 2022, the biggest pharmacy conference event of the year. It’s a fantastic way to reconnect with colleagues and view the latest industry innovations and product developments. The team from Retail Beauty will be roaming the halls, meeting and greeting stall holders and guests, and handing out some

4| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

fantastic goody bags. And of course, we’ll be embracing the junglethemed street party in full force. Check out our extensive guide in this issue (page 66). Colour cosmetics were the most negatively impacted sector in the beauty industry during the first wave of the Covid-19 pandemic, and the arrival of the Omicron variant may have put a kink in the timeline, but sales of colour cosmetics have been rising again globally. This issue Elisabeth King takes a deep dive into the comeback of colour (page 14). Elisabeth also taps into the leading makeup, skincare and wellness brands to uncover their informed opinions and predictions about the trends that will define the beauty market in 2022 (page 42). We have loads more in our jam-packed 100-page edition including an interview with Trudi Jay, Managing Director and Co-Founder of Retreatment Botanics (page 76), a chat with Sally Obermeder, Co-Founder and Creative Director at SWIISH (page 58), an insight to the daily life of Bahar Etminan, Founder of Ageless by Rescu Magazine and Podcast (page 72) and much, much more. Stay safe. retail_beauty_ retail_beauty_ RetailBeautyMagazine retail-beauty

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71 AUTUMN 2022

EYES ON THE FUTURE 1000HOUR

COMEBACK OF COLOUR Why makeup is having a moment Your Guide to APP2022

CELEBRATES 30 YEARS

issue

Contents

AUSTRALIA’S BIGGEST PHARMACY CONFERENCE

Subscribe to Retail Beauty online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more. WWW.RETAILBEAUTY.COM.AU

Few brands have tracked the upswing in demand for lash tinting and eye enhancement among women of all ages than 1000Hour, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Even though more and more competitors have entered the Australian market, the popular home-grown brand has not only retained a market-leading position, but has also enjoyed double-digit growth as more consumers turned to at-home beauty routines during the lockdowns and restrictions of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Contact details RETAIL BEAUTY

RETAILBEAUTYMAGAZINE

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Previous issues

10 COVER STORY – Eyes on the Future – 1000Hour Celebrates 30 Years of Enhancing Lashes and Brows

Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: aferrari@intermedia.com.au

14 TREND – Comeback of Colour – Makeup on the Rebound

Publisher Craig Hawtin-Butcher M: +61 (0)444 516 058 E: craig@intermedia.com.au

24 INTERVIEW – Gillian Franklin – Founder and ex Managing Director of The Heat Group

Podcaster & Strategic Advisor Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nherrera@intermedia.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: mruzzene@intermedia.com.au National Advertising Manager Cathryn Tout M: +61 (0)416 350 742 E: ctout@intermedia.com.au Graphic Designer Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au Mailing Address RETAIL BEAUTY P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in Retail Beauty may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in Retail Beauty are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of BHA Media 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583 6| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

34 INDUSTRY NEWS – Latest local and international news 42 TALKING POINT – Peak Performers and Prophetic Predictions 58 5 MINUTES WITH – Sally Obermeder - Co Founder and Creative Director - SWIISH 64 APP2022 – Everything you need to know about the Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference & Trade Exhibition

78 AUSSIE MADE – Trudi Jaye, co-founder of Retreatment Botanics, the results driven skincare range she created with Olivia Newton-John 81 TRUTH SERUMS – Nikita Papas does a deep dive into skincare powerhouses 88 THE PERFUMER’S PATH – Clayton Ilolahia sits down for a one-of-a-kind interview with scent master and Senior Perfumer at the house of CPL Aromas, Vincent Ricord 90 INFLUENCER – Is your skinprep technique up to scratch? By Michael Brown 96 OUT & ABOUT – Keeping up with your colleagues – people & brands

74 MY JOURNEY – Bahar Etminan, Founder Ageless by Rescu Magazine and Podcast

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.

Contributors

ASSOCIATE EDITOR CLAYTON ILOLAHIA BRANDEE MEIER Brandee began her BUSINESS FEATURES Clayton works in communication and photography career ELISABETH KING evaluation for Fragrances straight out of high Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010.

of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

school and has been shooting beauty products and fashion flatlays for more than 20 years. Brandee has worked for a variety of brands on their advertising and product shoots including editorial work with Napoleon Perdis and Jane Iredale, is an expert at portraits and model shots, and has dabbled in numerous step-by-step make-up application shoots. brandeemeier.com.au

MICHAEL BROWN

NIKITA PAPAS

Growing up as a dancer, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of make-up artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador. Michael is also co-host of the Nova podcast Skinfluence.

An established PR and Communications Director, Nikita Papas has garnered 15+ years of experience within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. As an experienced Fashion, Beauty & Lifestyle Editor and Creative Director, Nikita understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive customer experience.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |7

Feed Your Skin’s Microbiome. Discover the Power of Pre + Probiotic Skincare with New Skin Physics® Biome Balance.

Nurturing Good Bacteria For Your Healthiest Complexion Yet. Formulated to promote and maintain a balanced microbiome, the new range from Skin Physics® uses pre + probiotics to support and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier. Ideal for those looking to improve skin quality, the range helps to combat key skin concerns linked to an imbalanced microbiome such as dryness, breakouts, redness, inflammation and accelerated ageing. In the all-star lineup, skinsavvy consumers will benefit from the brands commitment to science backed formulations that produce real results. Made in Australia, the new offering includes: Prebiotic Multi Cleansing Oil RRP $39.95 A prebiotic infused dry cleansing oil with Rosemary Extract & a Bio Lipid Complex. The gentle formulation fortifies & cleanses skin, while helping to restore & protect barrier function to keep skin healthy and hydrated.

Probiotic Daily Moisturising Gel RRP $59.95 Combines a unique blend of natural extracts with probiotc lysates to support and protect the skin against daily stressors, boost barrier function, improve uneven tone and deliver superior levels of moisture to the skin. Probiotic Overnight Repair Cream RRP $59.95 A rich overnight blend of natural extracts, probiotic lysates and nourishing oils to boost skin renewal & barrier recovery and combat key signs of ageing while you sleep. Intensive Pro Renewal Serum RRP $49.95 A powerful combinaton of probiotic lysates to boost natural cellular renewal & repair processes, counteract UV-induced skin damage and protect against premature ageing. Combined with skincare gold ingredients; Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin E to help improve overall texture and tone. For more information on the new range contact: retail@biophysicsgroup.com.

Eyes on the Future 1000HOUR Celebrates 30 Years of Enhancing Lashes and Brows 1000HOUR is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year.

by Elisabeth King Throughout the Covid-19 pandemic the beauty focus has moved strongly to the eyes, the only feature visible above a face mask. But a widespread shift towards false eyelashes and lash tinting was already a major trend. According to Grand View Research, the US market researcher, the global false eyelash market is predicted to reach US$1.6 billion by 2025. In 2020, mascara sales started to decline in leading markets as more women, especially Gen Zers and Millennials, swapped their wands for lash tinting and false eyelashes. Much of the renewed interest was generated by social media platforms such as Instagram and TikTok and innovation in the category. GenZers in their teens and 20s have become the top demographic buying the most falsies and are the first generation where false eyelashes are presented as part of a normal, everyday routine, with Millennials not far behind. Covering both ends of the makeup spectrum, false eyelashes have become as much a part of the natural, minimalist trend as they are for dramatic looks and are affordable and low maintenance. More women of all ages are also gravitating towards lash tinting to eliminate the need for mascara to achieve the same eye-focusing effect.

is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Even though more and more competitors have entered the Australian market, the popular home-grown brand has not only retained a market-leading position, but has also enjoyed double-digit growth as more consumers turned to at-home beauty routines during the lockdowns and restrictions of the Covid-19 pandemic. Erica Galea, Head of Marketing for Chemcorp International, says that beauty products such as bedazzled face decorations, lip tattoos and hair feathers have come and gone, while others such as 1000Hour Lash & Brow Dye kits have stood the test of time. “When we look back at beauty products which have continued to be successful for 30 years, YSL Beauty Touche Éclat, Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair and Chanel Rouge Noir nail polish spring to mind. In 2022, Australian brand 1000Hour’s Lash & Brow Dye kit joins these iconic products, celebrating three decades of enhancing lash, brow and even beard beauty.” Last year, 1000Hour reported strong growth in spite of the launch of several competitor brands in the marketplace, she says. “When looking at key IRI data the overall market grew, which we believe showcases broadened audience appeal within the category. This was fuelled by the consumer shift to at-home DIY beauty routines during multiple Covid lockdowns, in addition to the continued focus on the eyes because of the wearing of face masks on a daily basis.” 1000Hour also boasted a high customer retention rate, adds

2022 is set to see some of the best brow looks yet and could set a benchmark for the next decade.

BEAUTY ICON STATUS / STRONG GROWTH / HIGH CUSTOMER RETENTION

Few brands have tracked the upswing in demand for lash tinting and eye enhancement among women of all ages than 1000Hour, which 10| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

FASHION FORWARD FOR TODAY

False and tinted lashes and brows may be one of the important standards of today’s beauty, but opportunities for further growth are top of mind for 1000Hour. “Lashes and brows are the heart and soul of the 1000Hour brand, but we are looking at other areas of at-home beauty to provide professional quality solutions that are convenient and costeffective,” says Galea. “We have a range of new products in the pipeline for the second half of 2022 to help consumers to enhance their natural beauty. Watch this space.” https://1000hour.com.au

One of the best examples of the increased awareness of brow and lash tinting as key to the natural beauty look was higher sales for lighter shades such as light and medium brown, although Dark Brown remained the best-selling colour, she notes. “The more natural brow trends of 2021 will continue this year. The on-trend looks are a little more minimalist with lighter shades being used, as opposed to bolder statement looks. Shapes are 1000 Hour is excited to be continuing also more natural or lean towards a its relationship with model, MC and TV straighter finish by contrast to a more presenter Tegan Martin. defined arch. Fluffy brushed-up brows and brow lamination also look set to be fashion-forward in 2022.” After three decades of helping consumers to follow brow trends from the fuller, slightly unkempt brows of the late 1980s to the barely-there strips of the mid-late 90s and bold blocks of the Noughties, 1000Hour is a gold standard brand to create today’s looks with natural shades and Instant Brow Clear gel to set brushed-up looks, says Galea. “2022 is set to see some of the best brow looks yet and could set a benchmark for the next decade. Natural-looking lashes, whether tinted or artificially added, are also in demand this year to keep the entire look pared-back and simplified. It will be interesting to see if the second half of 2022 sees a bit more of a resurgence of makeup in general and the return of the more made-up lash look.” STRATEGIC INFLUENCER RELATIONSHIPS / NEW GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES

Influencers and social media celebrities such as Kim Kardashian have had a huge impact on the upsurge in popularity of lash products. Defined brows and lashes are a must for Instagram selfies, TikTok videos and Zoom meetings to create a no-fuss, put-together look. 1000Hour is excited to be continuing our Ambassador relation with model, MC and TV presenter, Tegan Martin, says Galea. “A down-to-earth girl, Tegan has been using the brand since her teens and was introduced to it by her mother.” The brand is also aligned with brow expert, Amy Jean, who has been instrumental in bridging the space between salon and at-home beauty, providing tutorials and expert tricks for in-between salon visits and to keep brows looking just done, she adds. “We are also excited to continue working with other key Australian influencers who also have a strong alignment with the brand in 2022.”

COVER STORY

Galea. “In 2021, we saw an increase of 257 per cent, which was reflective of customers introduced to the brand during 2020 who repurchased as they continued their at-home beauty routines.”

FAST FACTS - 1000HOUR • The brand was launched in 1992 by John Fisher, the Founder of Chemcorp International. • The name represents the approximate lifespan for lash renewal - when the old lash falls out and a new one takes its place. • Priceline was 1000Hour’s first retail partner, stocking the Lash & Brow Dye kit in the hair colour section because the retailer didn’t have a dedicated brow space in stores at the time. Priceline continues to be a dominant force in the lash/brow category and remains a key partner for the brand in 2022. • Following the success of the Lash & Brow Dye kits, the brand successfully expanded its range of products to artificial lashes and nails, hair cover-ups, temporary brow colour and grooming solutions. • Last year, 1000Hour launched a Lash & Brow Serum Mist, its newest SKU, which supports the natural growth of lashes and brows.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |11

WHY CHALLENGES ARE GOOD FOR BUSINESS

How Challenge Programs Help Drive Growth BY AI-LIEN CHEN, FOUNDER OF FERMIO

t is often said that every challenge is an opportunity for growth. This adage holds true in both personal and business development, especially in the health and wellness sector. A wellness challenge is more than an exercise routine and a meal plan – it is an engaging and positive environment that provides all the tools and tips to help participants reach wellness goals in a set timeframe. Challenges are remarkably effective marketing and conversion tools, as it couples product purchases with challenge participation, a combination that has been shown to increase both customer referral and retention. By executing well-crafted wellness challenges together, brands and retailers can deliver an enhanced product experience that helps customers feel inspired, stay motivated, remain engaged and be empowered to turn minor changes into healthy habits. In turn, they associate both the brand and the retailer with their success. Challenges are also an excellent way to create a sense of community, especially when social distancing has become the new normal. To support its national roll-out into pharmacies and practitioner networks, FERMIO has created a comprehensive 4-Week Gut Health Challenge to help program participants make small,

12| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

manageable steps towards better digestive health and, in turn, overall health. This 4-week challenge aligns with FERMIO’s brand belief that different people have distinct health goals and lifestyles. We aim to support them to reach those goals

Gut health is an integral part of FERMIO’s positioning. Our philosophy that good health starts in the microbiome drives our product development and marketing strategies. FERMIO’s triple fermentation technology naturally turns nutritious whole foods into triple fermented superfoods. Our Nutritional Cleanse combines this powerful fermented blend with gut-nourishing prebiotics, 4.8g of fibre, plant-based antioxidants, and an energy-boosting natural B complex. Just one 50ml shot daily may help eliminate digestive build-up, reduce bloating, boost mood and energy, and support bowel regularity. More importantly, starting the day with a healthy mindset and an act of self-care can positively empower and impact subsequent choices throughout the day.

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DermaGen Propolis Balm ARTG-listed to provide symptomatic relief of inflammatory skin conditions such as mild eczema and dermatitis. Relieves discomfort and supports healing of sores, grazes and minor wounds. Relieves the symptoms of minor fungal infections, promotes healing of cold sores and pimples and may also reduce scarring. It has been independently assessed to show inhibition of Staph.aureous, a common skin bacterium that can cause skin infections on open wounds, and Candida Albicans, a common yeast that causes fungal skin infections in moist, warm areas of skin folds. It is a hydrating balm, with a mild scent of botanical resins and oils. It forms a layer over the skin and prevents the evaporation of moisture so skin feels hydrated over a longer period of time.

DermaGen Manuka Balm ARTG-listed to provide symptomatic relief of skin conditions such as minor eczema, dermatitis, grazes, minor wounds, abrasions, minor burns, minor fungal infections, cold sores, pimples and acne. It is a hydrating balm, with a fresh, mild, calming scent of lavender and thyme. This barrier balm forms a layer over the skin and prevents the evaporation of moisture so skin feels hydrated over a longer period of time. This barrier balm works perfectly as a baby moisturiser for infants. Pollen-free, daisy-family free, vegan-friendly. Aust L 331181.

‘bee glue’. Propolis and its extracts have numerous applications in treating various diseases due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Meanwhile, Manuka oil is made in Australia and New Zealand by steam distillation of the leaves and twigs native leptospermum scoparium bush, the same plant that Manuka Honey is made from. Manuka Oil has been used by the Maori tribes in New Zealand for centuries for their medicinal and skin healing properties. So, when Karen’s son ripped his toenail off, she immediately applied DermaGen Manuka Oil Balm. “My son tripped on a rock at the beach, and ripped his toenail off,” she said. “I immediately dressed it after applying the Manuka

Oil Balm to prevent any bacterial infection, decrease the redness and inflammation and to help the skin to regenerate. This was done once a day until the new nail grew back”. “The actives in our balms have been evaluated in-vitro to inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus, a common bacterium that lives on the skin which can colonise an open wound to delay skin healing,” she said. “ Staph bacteria also release a toxin that triggers the immune response which causes more inflammation, which can be calmed by applying the Manuka Oil Balm or the Propolis Balm if not allergic to pollen or bee propolis.” Visit our website www.dermagen.net.au for more information. Contact Pharmasales 03 9599 8900 for wholesale enquiries. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |27

What makes the perfect

Daily Routine? We all know that getting a good night’s sleep is essential for good health. Sleep can influence several factors in your day to day life, including; energy levels, mood, cognitive function, stress levels, hormone regulation and even heart health. If your busy mind is keeping you awake at night and consequently you lack energy during the day, let us help you with our AM + PM Essentials pack! Featuring our CoQ10 300mg Ubiquinol and our new improved sleep formula Peaceful Sleep, this combination of products will help provide your cells with the energy they need to carry out their tasks during the day and then help you achieve a good night’s sleep!

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Fragrance sales are up on CY 2019.

Hot summer trends predicted to heat up this winter Liz Webster has the inside scoop on what retailers can expect right now following the pandemic, and trends for the future into next year and beyond. As the New Year gets well and truly underway we are seeing a return of traffic in stores as customers are looking to touch and feel beauty products and shopping becomes more of a social experience again. Additionally, the return of services to department stores, beauty retailers and pharmacies has had a positive influence on sales and optimistic business sentiment continues to grow as customers once again line-up at the make-up counters. This return to stores has seen online sales take a hit, however, more sales than expected were picked up in the bricks and mortar sales, particularly over the booming Christmas period. Almost every beauty brand globally has been struggling

with supply chain issues and our local market was no exception. Limited flights into Australia and the influx of travellers into the country meant there was no air freight alternative option which had an impact on beauty retailers receiving stock. The beauty industry is not alone here, with some industries hit harder than others – particularly automotive – which has had a negative impact on their bottom line as customers are desperate for particular items. Many of the beauty gift sets ordered for the Christmas rush did not hit the stores early enough and unfortunately many retailers were caught out, with some stock arriving

Following the removal of the mask wearing mandates we have seen makeup sales make a strong comeback.

30| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

BUSINESS

Influencers launching their own beauty lines appears to be a trend that isn’t waning – almost every week an influencer is launching their own range and they have the perfect platform to promote themselves.

ABOUT LIZ WEBSTER Make-up sales have made a strong comeback.

post-Christmas. Retailers would do well to offer these sets for Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day to recoup the loss of Christmas and Boxing Day sales. In addition to the supply chain woes affecting all retail segments, a number of beauty specific trends have begun to emerge over the last quarter. The last few months has seen fragrance come out as the big winner, especially top-end fragrance brands, as the market placed a big emphasis on “spoiling me” coming out of the pandemic. Fragrance sales are up on CY 2019 which is brilliant as not many categories can match that. The increase in performance in the fragrance category can be largely attributed to customers not appearing to have an issue spending above $200 to purchase a prestige fragrance. The retail sales also showed fragrance gifting for Christmas was huge, particularly as gift sets (if available) offered amazing value. Following the removal of the mask wearing mandates we have seen make-up sales make a strong comeback. Australians are getting back to work and getting out and about in greater numbers as gathering restrictions are removed and there was much socialising at Christmas parties. Despite the return to work and summer party make-up sales boom, the skincare category maintaining growth, which is a continuation of what we saw through Covid lockdowns. However, without the large numbers from the Chinese market, luxury skincare has continued to suffer. We are also seeing the home nail segment continue to bloom as product innovation in that space has been incredible making it simple and easy for people to “do your own nails”. This development should last as people are getting creative and preferring to spend the money on their own products rather than visit nail salons. Influencers launching their own beauty lines appears to be a trend that isn’t waning – almost every week an influencer is launching their own range and they have the perfect platform to promote themselves. Customers seem eager to try these products, however when looking to stock an influencer’s beauty line, retailers should do their own research to ensure customers will connect with the product’s proposition and the beauty products themselves are of a high quality.

Grant Thornton Australia is pleased to welcome Liz Webster as its newest Partner in the Management Consulting and Retail teams. Liz is an exceptional senior retail executive with national and international experience in merchandise and category leadership, supply chain transformation, retail operations, and marketing within the FMCG, health, beauty, fashion, footwear and accessories sectors. She is passionate about retail and committed to delivering operational and supply chain success that provides true customer value across an organisation. Liz Webster said: “Following 18 months of disruption in retail, I want to help clients make sense of what is happening in the marketplace right now, and also to predict future trends. I have extensive retail knowledge and a vast network of retail contacts, and I’ll utilise both to bring another layer of expertise and skill set to the group. It really excites me to work as part of the Retail team at Grant Thornton to provide deep insights and take solutions out to clients.” Liz has worked in Retail for over 12 years in senior management roles for leading Australian and international retailers including Myer, Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (owner of Priceline), as a Senior Consultant with xAct Solutions, and also has an extensive background in media selling and buying.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |31

We will see more and more brands and retailers using social shopping.

Top 5 Retail Trends that will Prevail in 2022 Tiendeo, a company specialising in the digitisation of the retail sector, has identified five key trends that will revolutionise retail in 2022, based on a survey of marketers* from the world’s leading brands and retailers. There’s no doubt 2021 was a year of readjustment marked by a slow economic recovery, still engulfed by the Covid-19 pandemic, which continues to spread across the nation. We all hoped that 2021 would be the year of the return to normality, but that was not the case. In this climate, the retail sector has adopted a flexible strategy that makes it easier to adjust to new consumer habits, causing marketers to reorganise their resources and distribution channels for 2022.

advertising) has shifted to digital media. This is highlighted in the study where digital marketing (80.8%) along with social media (68.8%) will be the most prominent investments for marketing budgets in 2022. Now more than ever, the use of adaptable strategies in the face of an uncertain future, together with the need to offer omnichannel experiences, will form the cornerstone of marketing strategies in 2022.

1. OMNICHANNEL EXPERIENCES WILL CONTINUE TO GROW

The concept of the traditional store is disappearing to make way for stores that offer experiences: stores that are able to combine the physical and digital worlds at a specific time and place. A collateral effect of this change is the collapse of the shopping centre business model as we know it today. A business model that is in danger of disappearing in favour of a more flexible one, in which temporary or even one-off campaigns will become the norm.

According to the “Retail Marketing Hot Trends 2022” study conducted by Tiendeo, 58.6% of retailers and brands will be investing in digital channels in 2022. Changes in shopping habits have made the digital channel the preferred medium for marketers to connect with consumers. . Likewise, investment in traditional media (TV, radio or outdoor 32| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

2. THE RISE OF THE “EXPERIENTIAL STORE”

BUSINESS

MOST RELEVANT MEDIA FOR RETAIL PROFESSIONALS

retailers to compete with e-commerce giants by providing a more convenient and frictionless experience. When it comes to online shopping, we will be taken to the store from the comfort of our own homes through augmented virtual reality. An example of this is Dyson, which is one of the first brands to test this concept with the opening of its own virtual store, where users are invited to try their products remotely and thus initiate the purchasing process. 4. THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY WILL BE AT THE CORE OF OUR STRATEGIES

Dyson has opened its own virtual store.

As a result, shopping centres will no longer just be places to spend time in, but will become meeting points where spaces will become stages, where different types of shows will be offered to encourage the consumption of a particular product or brand. The objective of this change in business model is to attract the public to the store (both those who intend to buy and those who don’t) and thus create a unique emotion-based experience that creates a greater connection and bond. “Although physical stores are still very popular, consumers want a memorable and frictionless experience, where digital will play a key role”, says Eva Martín, Tiendeo CEO. The customer shopping experience is the most important factor in consumer marketing strategy for 91.2% of professionals*. 3. TECHNOLOGY AS A CATALYST FOR CHANGE

Mobile sales support solutions, interactive kiosks, checkout-free shops. This will also be the future of retail. With the incorporation of technology and artificial intelligence into the sales process, we will see more and more smart stores, allowing consumers to shop in places that are virtually unmanned and where there is no checkout. Last month, British food retailer Tesco took the plunge by testing a new type of supermarket focused on autonomy and self-service in central London: its first checkout-free store, which allows customers to walk out with their purchases without having to scan their products or check out. French retailers such as Carrefour, Auchan and Monoprix are also testing this new model. The development of this type of store allows

Consumer concern for the environment is driving retailers and brands to adopt a more environmentally responsible strategy. Zero waste, second-hand and used markets will continue to grow as they address a crucial issue for the sector in 2022: reconciling purchasing power and environmental protection. In recent months, second-hand spaces have appeared in some large retail stores in brands such as Auchan, Carrefour, Decathlon, Cora, Kiabi or Ikea with its “Circular Hub”. Another noteworthy feature in relation to the circular economy is the firm commitment of several retailers to reduce or eliminate the production of their paper catalogues. In Australia, supermarket giant Woolworths has halted its catalogue printing for at least 12 weeks in areas where it has higher digital engagement with its customers. Another example is Sweden’s Ikea, which announced its intention to stop printing its well-known paper catalogue by 2022. More and more retailers are reaching this point of awareness and opting for more sustainable communication tools such as digital catalogues. 5. LONG LIVE SOCIAL SHOPPING

Although social shopping is already a well-established trend, in 2022 we will see more and more brands and retailers using this medium as a complement to e-commerce, where social selling will rely mainly on influencers and brand ambassadors. According to the Tiendeo study, 58% of retailers and brands intend to increase their advertising investments on social networks in the next 12 months. * Study conducted based on the opinion of 358 directors and managers of brands and retailers in the consumer sector, in digital marketing, trade marketing, e-commerce and omnichannel retail positions, in the categories of supermarkets, home, fashion, electronics, beauty, toys, restaurants, automotive, DIY, pets, sports, health and travel, between 8th November, 2021 and 13th December, 2021.

ABOUT TIENDEO

Tiendeo is the leading platform enabling brands to communicate their offers and promotions to millions of consumers in the digital world. More than 200 retailers use Tiendeo’s technology to increase traffic to their stores and reach the platform’s audience of more than 75 million unique monthly users.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |33

INDUSTRY NEWS DECEMBER RETAIL SALES RISE AND MYER ENJOYS STRONG RUN-UP TO CHRISTMAS

Retail sales for December rose 4.6 per cent, reports the Mastercard SpendingPulse, which measures in-store and online sales across all forms of payment. Better yet, the crucial month’s sales were up 10.4 per cent on pre-pandemic 2019 levels. Household goods were the top performer, increasing 11 per cent by contrast to the same month in 2020. Clothing sales rose 7.7 per cent and food retailing inched up 1.2 per cent. But overall department store sales declined 3.7 percent in December. Victoria saw the highest jump in retail sales of 8.5 per cent compared to the same period last year. NSW posted a gain of 1.5 per cent, compared to Queensland (+4.4%), WA (6.3%), ACT (+8.1%), NT (+3.5%), Tasmania (+8.5%) and South Australia (+0.2%) Paul Zahra, CEO of the Australian Retailers Association (ARA), warned that January sales would feel the impact of the on-going Covid-19 pandemic. “The new year has delivered new challenges for retailers in the form of Omicron with tens of thousands of people forced into isolation every day. Whilst Christmas and holiday spending has held up well in December, and improved on last year, we had yet to reach the peak of Omicron and consumers were feeling more confident while going about their shopping”. In spite of the December fall in department store sales, Myer reported a “particularly strong” run up to Christmas in the five months to January 1st. Over 27 per cent of the company’s bricks-and-mortar trading days were lost over the reporting period because of Covid restrictions and lockdowns, but Myer enjoyed sales growth of 12.3 per cent year-on-year and a 17.1 per cent upsurge in the two months to the end of December. Online sales now account for 27.7 per cent of group turnover and e-commerce revenues were up 54.3 per cent during the five months to January 1st by contrast to the same period a year earlier. While we are seeing Omicron impact sales post Christmas, we will continue to focus on growing our strong online business, ongoing engagement across our MYER one program and disciplined management of costs and inventory, noted John King, CEO of Myer. 34| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

FIRST FACE-TO-FACE IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL IN THREE YEARS

The beauty industry’s international calendar of major events have long offered Australia’s cosmetic buyers, brands and distributors the chance to catch up on trends, explore new brands and reinforce or make new business connections. The Covid-19 crisis caused many important exhibitions to go virtual. So it’s good news that the world’s largest personal care ingredients trade show - in-Cosmetics Global - will be staged in Paris from April 5th to 7th and is Reed Exhibitions first-face-toface European event in three years. Australian citizens, permanent residents and eligible visa holders can now travel overseas without exemptions and registrations are now open for in-Cosmetics Global. More than 400 personal care ingredient suppliers will be in attendance. Other highlights include the Sensory Bar which will showcase new fragrances, flavours and textures. The Make-Up Bar will profile innovative pigments and technologies. While the Sustainability Corner will provide information on the latest environmentally-friendly advances and materials. There will also be nine country-specific pavilions detailing the latest trends from France, the UK, South Korea, Brazil, Spain, South Africa, Colombia, Peru and Tunisia. Additional dedicated zones include the Fragrance Zone, the Lab Zone and the Testing and Regulation Zone. This year’s in-cosmetics Global will also have a major virtual component - a hybrid approach which allows in-person attendees to explore topics of interest they might have missed or want to know more about and also helps those who couldn’t make the trip to learn about the latest beauty industry trends and more. The virtual event will run from April 11th to 22nd. After three years of virtual in-Cosmetics events in Europe, we’re excited to get back to Paris to reconnect the industry faceto-face”, says Roziana Zulkifli, Event Director, in-Cosmetics Global. “Over the past few years, we’ve witnessed a growing appetite for in-person networking and collaboration. It’s why this year, our emphasis is firmly on providing a safe and secure environment for the industry to do business. “This includes three days of busy in-person sourcing and networking and for the first time in the show’s history, a followup virtual event that will extend opportunities to collaborate and learn. We are counting the days, looking forward to a triumphant return to Paris and excited to welcome the industry as they join us”. For further information and to register for both the in-person and virtual events, go to: www.in-cosmetics.com

INDUSTRY NEWS

FRAGRANCE AND SKINCARE FUEL RECORD RESULTS FOR LVMH AND INTER PARFUMS

LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, has posted record revenues of 64.2 billion euros (AUD$102.05 billion) in 2021 - a massive 44 per cent year-on-year jump and an increase of 20 per cent on its pre-pandemic performance in 2019. The multinational’s cash cow division Fashion and Leathergoods - reported sales of 30.89 billion euros (AUD$49.10 billion) last year. Selective Retailing, including Sephora, was a bright spot in second place with revenues of 11.75 billion euros (AUD$18.67 billion), followed by the Watches and Jewellery division with sales of 6.96 billion euros (AUD$11.06 billion). Sephora increased its revenues by 30 per cent globally as consumers flooded back into its stores over the Christmas period in the fourth quarter. LVMH’s Perfumes and Cosmetics division enjoyed organic revenue growth of 27 per cent compared to 2020 with sales of 6.60 billion euros (AUD$10.49 billion). Christian Dior’s perfume portfolio was super-charged by the Miss Dior and Sauvage franchises. Sauvage became the highest-selling fragrance in the world in both the men’s and the women’s categories last year - a first for a men’s fragrance. Guerlain also continued to kick goals with its Abeille Royale and Orchidee Imperiale skincare brands.

Inter Parfums posted a record Q3, with sales surging 15 per cent by contrast to the same period last year to US$210 million. Net sales for the full year rose to US$879.6 million, compared to US$539 million in 2020 and US$713.5 million in 2019. The multinational’s hero brands - Montblanc, Jimmy Choo, Coach and Guess - all exceeded global sales of US$100 million last year. While its mid-sized perfume brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, Oscar de la Renta, Van Cleef & Arpels and Karl Lagerfeld also made significant gains. With new licenses such as MCM, Ungaro, Ferragamo and Moncler on track to make hefty contributions to Inter Parfums’ bottom line, the company has raised its guidance for 2022 to US$975 million.

LUXURY PLATFORM FARFETCH BUYS VIOLET GREY AHEAD OF MAJOR BEAUTY LAUNCH

The prestige beauty category is on fire. Procter & Gamble has acquired three high end brands in recent months and prestige beauty sales in the US, the world’s largest single beauty market, rose 30 per cent in 2021. According to the Bain Altagamma Luxury Goods Worldwide Study, global luxury beauty sales reached US$69 billion in 2021 - nearly 25 per cent of the US$300 billion personal luxury goods sector. Farfetch, the leading global platform for the luxury fashion industry, announced that it would be making a serious foray into beauty later this year. First in the US and Europe before rolling out to the rest of the world. Founded in 2008, Farfetch connects customers in more than 190 countries, including Australia, and offers products from more than 1400 of the world’s best brands, boutiques and department stores. Ahead of its landmark segue into beauty, Farfetch has acquired Violet Grey. Founded in 2013 by Cassandra Grey (pictured), the US company offers a curated selection of beauty brands though its dedicated website and storefont on Melrose Place in Los Angeles. The selection ranges from pharmacy brands such as Bioderma and Eau Thermale Avene to prestige and niche brands including La

Mer, Sisley, M.A.C, Byredo and Augustinus Bader. Following the buyout, Cassandra Grey will become a global advisor for beauty at Farfetch and Violet Grey will continue as a standalone business. Niten Kapadia, the former VP Operations for Farfetch, will become the Managing Director of Violet Grey. Shiseido took a minority stake in Violet Grey in 2018 and private equity funds Assembled Brands and Agility Capital engaged with the company in 2020 through a secured credit facility. The company is the first beauty acquisition for Farfetch. But the platform bought Stadium Goods, the US sneakers and streetwear brand, in 2018 and Browns, the British fashion and luxury goods boutique, in 2015. The acquisition of Violet Grey is an important step ahead of the launch of beauty on Farfetch later this year and will form part of our overall beauty strategy palette, notes Stephanie Phair, Chief Customer Officer for Farfetch. “It will enable us to offer our informed and engaged customers a curated selection of the industry’s most sought-after products on the Farfetch marketplace, joining a world of beauty brands, from the iconic leading global brands to smaller brands with a cult following.” RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |35

INDUSTRY NEWS

RECORD GROWTH TO US$5.54 BILLION FOR ESTÉE LAUDER IN Q2

Semaphoring a strong return to bricks-and-mortar stores worldwide, The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) posted net sales of US$5.54 billion for its second quarter to December 31st. A 14 per cent increase on the same period last year and the best quarterly performance in the multinational’s history. Revenues surged in every regional market, led by skincare with sales of US$3.159 billion - up 12 per cent. La Mer enjoyed double digit gains, fuelled by hero products such as The Treatment Lotion and the launch of The Hydrating Infused Emulsion. Power brand, Clinique, also turned in double digit growth, driven by increased demand for bestsellers such as Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter and newbie Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum. The long-anticipated revival of makeup was also apparent in Q2. Sales of colour cosmetics reached US$1.386 billion - up 11 percent on the same period last year. The Estée Lauder core brand headed the charge with double digit growth, led by the launch of Double Wear Long-Wear Sheer Foundation. M.A.C, Tom Ford Beauty, Too Faced and Smashbox also put in solid performances. The Covid-19 pandemic strongly impacted fragrance sales, but the category has resurged with the re-opening of key markets. ELC fragrance sales increased 29 per cent in Q2 to US$799 million - up from US$618 million 12 months prior. Jo Malone London and Tom Ford Beauty boosted the multinational’s bottom line with double digit growth, thanks to hero scents such as English Pear & Freesia and Black Orchid. Strong holiday demand moved the dial upwards for Le Labo. Double digit growth was also enjoyed by Kilian Paris, backed by favourites such as Good Girl Gone Bad and new launches including Apple Brandy on the Rocks.

Haircare sales, centred on the Aveda and Bumble & bumble brands, were also up 17 per cent to US$180 million for the second quarter. We achieved record sales and profitability in the second quarter of fiscal 2022, says Fabrizio Freda, President and CEO of The Estée Lauder Companies. “Every category, region and major channel expanded, showcasing the strength of our multiple engines of growth strategy. We seized the favourable dynamics of skincare, fragrance, developed markets in the West, and bricks-and-mortar, and continued to prosper in the East with Chinese consumers as well as in global travel retail and global online.” As we embark on the second half of fiscal 2022, our business is far bigger and more profitable than pre-pandemic with every region larger, he noted.

COURTIN-CLARINS FAMILY BUY ILIA BEAUTY

The founding family of the Clarins Group has always had an eye for fast-growing brands and trends. To further its ambition of tapping into categories with a bright future, the Courtin-Clarins clan have acquired clean beauty pioneer, Ilia Beauty, through its investment firm, Famille C. Prisca Courtin-Clarins, the deputy CEO of Famille C, is the granddaughter of Jacques Clarins, who founded the company that bears his name in the 1950s, and has long been a key player in the beauty industry through the prestige French company. It’s my role in Famille C to identify the brands of tomorrow and therefore diversify the family assets, she says. “Ilia is Famille C’s first major and strategic acquisition. The idea is to make it the world leader in clean colour cosmetics.” The brand was founded in 2011 by Canadian entrepreneur, Sasha Plavsic. In the beginning, Ilia sold mainly lip products but 36| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

has branched out into award-winning complexion and eye products including Super Serum Skin Tint, Soft Focus Finishing Powder and Limitless Lash Mascara. Ilia has its own DTC website and is available in hundreds of Sephora store globally, Space NK in the UK and Mecca in Australia. There’s a dynamic synergy between Ilia and Clarins, one of the first companies to popularise natural ingredients in beauty. Jonathan Zrihen, President and CEO of Groupe Clarins, confirmed the acquisition as being in line with the ambitions of the Courtin-Clarins family and its aim of delivering sustainable beauty. Ilia is an amazing brand managed by a great team, he adds. “I am truly convinced that this acquisition will enable Ilia to benefit from both Famille C and Clarins expertise to further accelerate and conquer new territories.” Since its launch, Ilia has pursued growth through two rounds of fund-raising in 2018 and 2020.

INDUSTRY NEWS

P&G Q2 SALES UP 6 PER CENT TO US$21 BILLION

Procter & Gamble (P&G) has been grabbing headlines following a corporate buying spree in the prestige beauty and haircare categories. Since November, the multinational has snapped up Farmacy Beauty, Ouai haircare and Tula Skincare. But the US giant has been doing very well with its current portfolio of brands from Olay to Pantene. P&G’s net sales for its Q2 2022 reached US$21 billion – up six per cent over the same period a year earlier. Skin and personal care sales increased by 2 per cent in the second quarter, driven by volume growth in personal care, innovation and pricing for major brands including Olay, SK-II and Snowberry. Haircare organic sales rose in single digits, thanks to Pantene, Herbal Essences and Head & Shoulders. While Gillette, P&G’s powerhouse in the grooming sector, pushed shavecare sales up 5 per cent due to volume growth, increased pricing and sales in developed markets. Babycare and feminine care, boosted by super-brands Pampers and Tampax, also saw a 5 per cent rise in organic sales in Q2.

We delivered very strong top-line growth and made sequential progress on earnings in the face of significant cost headwinds, said Jon Moeller, President and CEO of P&G. “These results keep us on track to deliver our earnings outlook and raise estimates for sales growth, cash productivity and cash return to shareowners.” P&G has raised its all-in-sales growth outlook for fiscal 2022 from a range of 2 to 4 per cent to 3 to 4 per cent. The multinational has also upped its guidance for organic sales growth from a range of 2 to 4 per cent to 4 to 5 per cent.

AUSTRALIAN LUXURY FASHION PLATFORM CETTIRE TO ENTER BEAUTY SECTOR

Like Farfetch, Cettire operates a marketplace for over 1700 luxury fashion brands, including Gucci, Fendi, Burberry and Zimmermann. Founded in 2017 by entrepreneur Dean Mintz, sales increased from $545,000 in 2018 to $22.8 million in 2020. The vast bulk of the platform’s revenues come from overseas, notably the US. Cettire launched an IPO (initial public offering) on the Australian Stock Exchange in December 2020, raising $65 million. In its first year as a public company, sales quadrupled. For the six months ended December 31st, Cettire’s gross revenues reached $154 million and its active customer base soared to 209,000. High profile investors have been interested in the luxury online retailer from the get-go and Cettire has major plans for the future in its core markets of the US, the UK and Australia. Cettire is gunning for a slice of the multi-billion global luxury beauty sector and will launch a new website vertical by the end of March. Cettire reveals that it has access to more than 25,000 beauty products from 600 brands, offering skincare, cosmetics, haircare, fragrances and men’s grooming. Our entry into the beauty category represents an opportunity to further establish Cettire as a leading global online luxury destination, says Dean Mintz, Founder and CEO. “Beauty represents a large and growing adjacency within the global personal luxury goods market. It is a natural extension of our range, particularly as we continue to rapidly scale site traffic and active customers while growing brand awareness globally. The scope to integrate fashion and beauty provides excellent potential for cross-promotion and provides a further point of differentiation for Cettire.” 38| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

Since 1990, Look Good Feel Better has helped more than 150,000 women, men and teens across Australia face their cancer diagnosis with confidence. We’ve done this with the help of 15,000 litres of moisturiser, 298,000 lipsticks and 9,000 kilograms of foundation. But more importantly, we’ve done this with care, compassion, and understanding. We proudly offer Face-to-Face workshops, Virtual Workshops and Home-Delivered Confidence Kits to educate and empower those undergoing cancer treatment.

To participate in the program or to find out more, visit lgfb.org.au.

INDUSTRY NEWS

ACCC GIVES ALL-CLEAR TO WESFARMERS BID TO ACQUIRE PRICELINE PARENT

Woolworths $850 million bid to acquire Australian Pharmaceutical Industries (API), the parent company of Priceline, was withdrawn in January. Now the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC)has given the all-clear to the $764 million offer from Wesfarmers tabled in November. Wesfarmers owns Kmart, Target, Bunnings and Officeworks and the regulator focused its deliberations on whether the proposed buyout would reduce competition and exert greater control over consumer data. The company also owns 50 per cent of Flybuys and the potential acquisition of the Priceline Sister Club loyalty program, in addition to retailing a high volume of beauty and personal care products through its Kmart, Target and Catch marketplace businesses, could have posed a major hurdle. According to Stephen Ridgeway, ACCC Commissioner - “Our investigation showed that there are large and well-established retailers, including Chemist Warehouse, Woolworths and Coles, that will compete strongly with Wesfarmers after the acquisition in both the market for over-the-counter pharmaceuticals and the market for beauty and personal care products. “Wesfarmers acquiring the Priceline Sister Club loyalty scheme will not have a lock-in effect on consumers in any market. Customers generally do not only join one loyalty scheme, and major competitors to Wesfarmers after the acquisition will have, or start, their own customer loyalty schemes.”

Wesfarmers already owns a 19.3 per cent share of API and the last barrier to the proposed buyout of the Priceline parent requires the shareholders to vote in favour of the deal. Once the final vote is in, the acquisition is expected to go ahead by the end of March. A key part of the Wesfarmers takeover is to ultilise its e-commerce, data and digital capabilities to fast-track API’s online business and boost customer engagement, including in-store foot traffic and sales for community pharmacists.

TULA SKINCARE ROLLS OUT IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

Retail Beauty recently reported online that Procter & Gamble (P&G) had acquired US-based clean and probiotic skincare brand, Tula Skincare, in its recent corporate buying spree in the prestige beauty category. Founded by celebrity gastroenterologist, Dr Roshini Raj, in 2014, the brand strongly leverages the fast-growing probiotic skincare market with its proprietary complex, including rice proteins, Vitamins A, C and E and omega-3 and 6 fatty acids. L Catterton, the private equity arm of LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, recognised the potential of Tula Skincare through a strategic investment in 2017. Sold in Sephora, Target, 40| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Ulta Beauty and on the QVC shopping channel in the US, the brand launched in Canada last August. Tula Skincare is now available exclusively in 45 Mecca stores in Australia and New Zealand and online. The curated selection includes bestsellers such as Cult Classic Purifying Cleanser, 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day and Night Cream and Get-Toned ProGlycolic 10% Resurfacing Toner. We are thrilled to be launching with iconic beauty retailer Mecca and continuing to expand our brand’s global footprint,” says Savannah Sachs, CEO of Tula Skincare. “Australia is a high-growth skincare market with a strong focus on clean skincare and a demand for clinically efficacious products.”

L’Oréal fired on all cylinders in 2021, growing at twice the pace of the overall global cosmetic market. All geographic zones, business divisions and product categories contributed to the outstanding result to achieve double digit growth of 15.3 per cent to US$36.8 billion. L’Oréal Luxe was the star performer with sales rising 21.9 per cent to become the multinational’s largest division by value. Revenues were a hair’s breadth away from pre-Covid levels with sales of US$14.01 billion, fueled by the success of hero fragrances such as Libre by YSL Beauty and new releases including Alien Goddess by Thierry Mugler and Luna Rossa Ocean by Prada. Lancôme and Kiehl’s were strong performers in the skincare category and Shu Uemura benefited from the pick-up in makeup revenues. The Consumer Products division, including Maybelline, Garnier and L’Oréal Paris, was L’Oréal’s largest division by volume with sales reaching US$13.884 billion. L’Oréal Paris kept its grip on the title of world’s number one beauty brand with sales of US$7.94 billion. NYX Professional also posted exceptional results. The multinational’s Active Cosmetics division (La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals, CeraVe and Vichy) continued its booming success of the past four years, outpacing the general dermocosmetic market with sales of US$4.45 billion - up 30.1 per cent for the calendar year. La Roche-Posay doubled its growth for 2021 on the back of products such as Effaclar Serum. L’Oréal’s Professional Products division achieved market share gains across all regions, notably the US and China, with strong performances from the Kérastase, Redken and L’Oréal Professionnel brands, to reach revenues of US$4.294 billion. Online sales were also a hotspot, rising 25.9 per cent to account for 28.9 per cent of L’Oréal’s total global sales. The company is strongly pursuing opportunities through new digital channels and investing heavily in data and AI to propel its e-commerce ambitions further.

2021 was an historic year for L’Oréal and the global beauty industry, added Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L’Oréal. “Consumers want more health and safety in their products, more transparency, more sustainability and more science in an ever more digitalised market. “What this year tells us is that the appetite for beauty is huge, universal and that beauty is essential for humans. Beauty is an offer-driven market powered by innovation, technology and by intuition and creativity. Beauty is a brand-powered market, where consumers relate to brands that come with a personality. Beauty is a market where scale matters and big brands and renowned products win.”

INDUSTRY NEWS

L’ORÉAL’S FULL YEAR 2021 SALES SOAR 15.3 PER CENT TO US$36.8 BILLION

COTY GAINS GLOBAL MARKET SHARE IN PRESTIGE AND CONSUMER BEAUTY IN Q2

Coty embarked on a strategic reconstruction in 2019 and the plan - plus media reinvestment - has paid off handsomely in its Q2 2022 performance. The multinational’s prestige revenues increased 12 per cent to US$1.008 billion, or 64 per cent of total sales, as key markets and travel retail rebounded. The re-launch and expansion of Kylie Cosmetics and the strength of new fragrance launches including Gucci Flora Gorgeous Gardenia and Burberry Hero were major contributors to the upswing. The Chloe and Hugo Boss fragrance franchises and Gucci makeup also enjoyed double digit growth in the second quarter. For the first time in five years, all four of Coty’s top cosmetics brands - CoverGirl, Rimmel London, Max Factor and Sally Hansen, gained market share worldwide. Double digit growth in all geographic regions pushed revenues up 12 per cent in Q2 to US$570.2 million, or 36 per cent of global sales. Sue Y. Nabi, current Coty CEO and co-founder of Orveda. Skincare was also a highlight in

Q2. Coty licensed the luxury prestige Orveda brand, co-founded by current CEO, Sue Y. Nabi, in 2014, and launched the CoverGirl Clean Fresh skincare range, formulated with 100 per cent vegan and clean ingredients, late last year. During the quarter, we continued to execute on our strategic growth pillars, allowing us to deliver sales, profit, and leverage results inline or ahead of guidance for the sixth consecutive quarter, noted Nabi. “The second quarter, and even more so the first half, further illustrates the virtuous cycle we have created. Strong topline growth combined with gross margin expansion and strong cost execution are generating both profit growth and re-investment in the business. This combination has contributed to sequentially improving sell-out trends in Q2, which sets the stage for accelerating sales growth in the second half.” RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |41

Peak Performers & Prophetic Predictions by Elisabeth King

Making beauty predictions is a fraught business. Makeup artists have very different opinions from marketing managers, especially with the Covid-19 pandemic still making headlines.

42| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

TALKING POINT

We saw a rise in VR experience as brands shifted to digital ‘try on’ solutions as a result of tester removal in stores, and this technology will only continue to improve in environments where testers are limited.

The strongest indicator of what consumers are buying and using is retail sales. Retail Beauty asked leading makeup, skincare and wellness brands which products did well in 2021 in spite of store closures and lockdowns in major states. Based on this coalface intel, we also tapped their informed opinions to make predictions about the trends that will define the beauty market in 2022. COLOUR RESURGENCE/ AT HOME CARE/DIGITAL EXPERIENCES

In spite of the pandemic challenges of 2021, Revlon exceeded expectations thanks to strong innovation and communication plans, combined with seamless intergration and partnerships with our key retailers, says Lucy Robinson, Senior Brand Manager, Revlon Cosmetics. “At-

Lucy Robinson, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, REVLON COSMETICS

home salon care saw a rise in popularity as consumers looked for solutions to maintain their beauty routines through lockdown periods. For Revlon, this trend came out in force with growth across our facial tools range, especially the Revlon Oil Absorbing Volcanic Roller, which has gained significant traction and popularity on TikTok in recent months. Together with the Revlon Jade Stone Facial Roller and the Revlon Facial Defuzzers, the #1 beauty tool product in Priceline with growth of 117 percent, all three tools offer different solutions and help consumers to embrace self-care at home.” A success that transferred to cosmetics, notably with new product launches, she says. “Ultra HD Snap! Nail Polish launched in Q3 and has been ranked as the #5 new product launch for 2021. So Fierce! Big Bad Lash launched in April, delivering bold volume and innovative technology which tints the lashes over seven days of use and reduces the need and cost for consumers

to seek out salon solutions for lash tinting. Our new Revlon ColorStay Skin Awaken Concealer leverages skincare ingredients such as Vitamin C and caffeine, and focuses on erasing, brightening and perfecting the undereye area.” Revlon has definitely seen a bounceback in the colour cosmetic market, adds Robinson. “We refocused and pivoted our innovation and media plans as a result of lockdown challenges and ended 2021 as the #2 makeup brand in Australia and growing ahead of the category. Consumers are continuing to embrace cosmetics and like to play, experiment and look for the ‘next best thing’. We are also seeing customers turn to iconic brands like Revlon, who are trusted and deliver prestige quality at affordable price points. As people continue to navigate the ‘new normal’, we predict strong growth for the makeup category and the Revlon business in 2022, driven predominantly by face and lip.” Sustainability is the new ‘clean’ metric by which consumers are holding brands accountable for their role in reducing waste and doing their part to care for the environment, says Laura Middleton, Senior Brand Manager, Revlon Cosmetics. “Many niche brands and

Laura Middleton, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, REVLON COSMETICS

speciality retailers are innovating in sustainable product, packaging and recycling solutions, which sets a new standard for bigger brands as we move into 2022.” Middleton also sees the ongoing importance of digital experiences to aid the shopper, both in-store and online. “We saw a rise in VR experience as brands shifted to digital ‘try on’ solutions as a result of tester removal in stores, and this technology will only continue to improve in environments where testers are limited. We are also seeing an increasing demand for skincare

hybrids and multi-benefit products. There is also a shift to a minimalist approach to skin and makeup in line with the Skinimalist trend.” SKINCARE SURGES/NAILS AND FRAGRANCES BOUNCE BACK

Skincare was the key category for us in 2021, says Sally Martins, Estée Lauder Product & Strategy Marketing Manager. “With people at home more due

Sally Martins, ESTÉE LAUDER PRODUCT & STRATEGY MARKETING MANAGER

to extended lockdowns, we definitely saw consumers reach for self-care products to indulge in. In particular, moisturisers and our Advanced Night Repair eye products moved from strength to strength. We have also seen considerable growth in mascaras, notably Double Wear Zero Smudge Mascara. Consumers spent a lot of last year wearing masks, and as a result the focus shifted towards the eyes when they were out and about.” A makeup wake up moment could be the theme for beauty in 2022, she notes. “With people socialising more, we will see demand for colour products increase. We also expect to see growth in our foundation segment, as well as lipsticks and blushes. Fragrances will also continue to grow. We are now seeing fragrances with new science technology where the scent lasts up to 12 hours on the skin, such as The Luxury Fragrance Collection by Estee Lauder.” Salon at home was a big trend in 2021, says Radek Strzelecki, Head of Marketing - Consumer Beauty ANZ - for Coty. “During lockdowns a

Radek Strzelecki, HEAD OF MARKETING CONSUMER BEAUTY ANZ FOR COTY

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |43

TALKING POINT

lot of consumers reverted to mass products while salons were closed and we saw a massive success across our brands. Sally Hansen, the #1 nail brand in Australia, did particularly well with the Miracle Gel long-lasting nail polish range and treatment solutions. Our new Rimmel salon-at-home Wonder’Extension Mascara became our best mascara launch in five years, together with Wonder’Last Brow Tints, a semi-permanent solution that lasts for days.” Clean/conscious beauty is becoming an even bigger trend with consumers looking for products that are kind to people, animals and the planet, he says. “Our standouts were our new Covergirl Clean Fresh range and Clean Lash Blast mascara, both achieving fantastic results. Sally Hansen also offered the new Good. Kind. Pure range of plant-based 100% vegan polishes. While Rimmel launched the game-changing Kind & Free range to cue in with this massive movement in beauty. The Kind & Free Moisturising Skin Tint is a standout - a summer must-have for a healthy, natural look with skincare benefits, 24-hour hydration and SPF 20”. Both trends will remain very strong

during 2022 and we should see a strong comeback in lip colour, continued growth in the nail segment and the ‘skinification’ of face makeup with more hybrid products, adds Strzelecki. “I think there is a massive opportunity across most makeup segments, but if I had to pick one it would probably be highlighting and contouring. The bounceback has benefited long-established brands like Rimmel, Sally Hansen, Covergirl and Max Factor as we accelerate support and investment.” MASCARA MOMENT/ MINIMALISM AND MAXIMALISM ON TREND

Our XtendLash Tubular Mascara is our #1 top-selling product and has absolutely dominated the cosmetics category in Woolworths over the past 12 months, says Shelley Sullivan, Founder and CEO, ModelCo and MCo Beauty.

Shelley Sullivan, FOUNDER AND CEO, MODELCO AND MCO BEAUTY

“It’s the #1 overall best-selling cosmetics product in all of Woolies and has held that position for the past two years straight.

Our other top-sellers are our Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid & Vitamin C Serum from our natural skincare range, which is by far a customer fave. MCo’s Mega Balm All-Over Ointment and our brow products have been hugely successful, too. One product that really surprised me was our Super Smooth Facial & Brow Razor. With extended lockdowns in the larger states, many people didn’t have access to their regular beauty appointments and we saw a massive jump in the sales of at-home beauty tools. Our razor was consistently in the top 10 products sold at Woolworths during lockdown.” Skincare is a huge growth category for us and we are launching five new skincare products in early 2022, including two new SPFs, she adds. “Customers are more educated than ever and want products that are packed with science-backed ingredients that are going to transform their skin. Skincare- infused makeup will continue to grow, as will the at-home beauty tools sector. The whole liquid matte lipstick trend seems to have died down. People are preferring more glossy, balm-like formulas that are ultra-hydrating and look more natural.” We didn’t see any decline in makeup sales in 2021, says Sullivan. “I think

Clean/conscious beauty is becoming an even bigger trend with consumers looking for products that are kind to people, animals and the planet.

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it’s because we’re focused on the types of products trending right now. For example, we released our Miracle BB Cream, which experienced an uptick in sales as people switched from heavier, full coverage foundations to lighter, dewier base products. Mascara, light bases and a natural lip seems to be the look consumers are loving and we are seeing this reflected in sales.” Two new launches performed well in the Australian market last year - Dewy Skin and Extraordinary Foundation - says Nora Zukauskaite, Marketing Director for Ciate London, sold exclusively through

Nora Zukauskaite, MARKETING DIRECTOR FOR CIATE LONDON

Mecca. “Our core products such as Wonderwand mascara and Watermelon Lip Oil continue to be firm favourites with Australian customers. In 2022, we see colour cosmetics coming back in a major way. Maximalism is going to be a big trend as it allows people to express themselves with a full colour spectrum as they rebel against more traditional colours and become super creative with everyday looks.” The nail category will make a strong return - from traditional nail varnishes to press-ons and nail stickers, she says. “Hybrid complexion products that blend skincare with cosmetics will allow consumers to achieve a more dewy and glossy look. The metaverse will lead the way in 2022, starting with NFTs, which more brands are investing and experimenting with, to full absorption into the digital world. Beauty brands will need to act fast to feed into this fast growing space by marketing direct to consumers through platforms such as TikTok to create elevated experiences in the virtual world.” IMPORTANCE OF TRUSTED BRANDS/ TARGETED SOLUTIONS

The skincare category continues to be redefined by the Covid-19 pandemic, says Pippa Hallas, CEO of Ella Baché.

Pippa Hallas, CEO OF ELLA BACHÉ

“Highly active skincare in particular has performed exceptionally well. A

demand reflected in the success of our new Retinol Night Treatment Serum, our first-ever retinol product. Retinol is not a new ingredient, of course, but the formulation contains 0.5% encapsulated retinol, complemented by a combination of antioxidant-rich ingredients such as kakadu plum seed oil, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramide to deliver dynamic results. Wellness and self-care also powered the success of Australian-made facial oils with the highest quality ingredients such as our Botanical Collagen Facial Oil.” 2022 will continue to be a year full of uncertainty, as we navigate Covid-19 and climate change, she says. “In times of uncertainty consumers reach for brands and products they know and trust such as Ella Baché. Consumers will also continue to increase their purchasing online. High touch service, treatments and connecting with therapists or consultants they have a relationship with will also continue to be important.” Our top hydration products thrived in 2021, says Sarah Ward, Product & Consumer Marketing Manager for Jurlique. “The first being our Activating

Sarah Ward, PRODUCT & CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER FOR JURLIQUE

boost sales of two standout performers for Boost Lab says Craig Schweighoffer, Founder and Managing Director. “The

Craig Schweighoffer,, FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR, BOOST LAB

first was our Eye Reset Serum and we saw a considerable lift in demand as eyes are pretty much the only part of the face exposed when wearing a mask. Second was our Blemish Rescue Serum due to the widespread emergence of ‘maskne’.” People will be keen to get outdoors this year after the extended lockdowns in major states in 2021, he says. “That means consumers will have to deal with dehydration and other stresses. I expect products like our Brightening Serum and Hydro Boost Serum to do well as consumers look for more glow and plump, hydrated skin.” Schweighoffer believes that all-inproducts are in decline in favour of targeted solutions and personalised skinacre. “I think we will see a big lift in AI technologies in 2022 from virtual try-on makeup application to evidence-based skin analysis”. VALUE SELLS/ MORE PERSONALISATION

Water Essence+, a lightweight essence which prepares the skin for optimal hydration. The Moisture Plus Rare Rose range enjoyed growth, mainly driven by the serum in the collection. Our bestselling product, Moisture Replenishing Day Cream, also reported an upsurge in sales because it provides lasting hydration throughout the day.” I feel we will continue to see growth in our hero facial care ranges such as Nutri-Define, she says. “We have strong innovation in the facial oil category in 2022. We will also be nurturing Jurlique’s Treatment Services category this year, where our beauty therapists can tailor treatments to bring out the skin’s natural radiance. Consumers will continue to buy into the clean skincare category and also focus on natural-based products that are results-driven and ingredient-focused. Sustainability and transparency is another strong focus and we are currently working on improving our recyclable and ecofriendly packaging and services such as Live Chat, virtual consultations and Click & Collect.” The Covid-19 pandemic helped to

Brands that supported at-home beauty, self care and well-being continued to be the top performers for us in 2021, says Erica Galea, Marketing Manager, Chemcorp International. “Our 1000

Erica Galea, MARKETING MANAGER, CHEMCORP INTERNATIONAL

Hour Dye Kits continued to see growth, as once again many consumers were unable to access professional services. SheaMoisture, particularly treatments, also performed strongly last year, as did the bath brands, Dr Teal’s and Bathefex.” The same products and brands will continue to do well this year, she says. “We’re still seeing pared-back beauty. The natural look with emphasis on the eyes, brows and lashes because of continued mask-wearing. While we don’t have any colour cosmetics brands, we do represent two of Australia’s biggest makeup brush brands - Real Techniques and EcoTools. We are optimistic there will be a RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |45

look for genuine messaging. We are seeing success by being really selective of the influencers we work with, our customer communication and care.” The products that have worked well for us in 2021 are Collagen+, cleansing and treatments devices such as LumiSpa, Galvanic Spa and Boost, and True Face Essence Ultra, a firming skincare serum, says Tracy Clifford, Head of Sales & Marketing for Nu Skin. “Face masks

Tracy Clifford, HEAD OF SALES & MARKETING FOR NU SKIN

1000 Hour Dye Kits continued to see growth as consumers were unable to access professional services.

bounceback in colour cosmetics as people resume being out and about for work or social reasons and start to look beyond the ‘skin only’ beauty routines which have been dominant over the past 18 months. 2022 will be strong for tried, tested and trusted brands and products because customers want to be assured of their purchases. This attitude links to marketing as consumers

Consumers are targeting ageing earlier and are seeking simplified solutions and more transparency about ingredients.

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have been extremely popular in recent times, however, we are seeing sales slowing slightly in this category. The sectors we think will do well in 2022, include insideout products such as collagen supplements, beauty devices which offer personalisation and skincare with blue light protection. Consumers are targeting ageing earlier and are seeking simplified solutions and more transparency about ingredients. We also think that mobile apps to analyse skin imperfections, instead of in-person consultations, will also become more popular.”

Affordable and straightforward beauty is what consumers are looking for, says Stefan Mazy, Founder Skin DNA and Biomimic Skincare. The Australian

Stefan Mazy, FOUNDER SKIN DNA AND BIOMIMIC SKINCARE

brand offers personalised skincare based on individual results from Skin DNA, the world’s most popular skin DNA testing technology. “We are seeing customers breaking away from single ‘super’ products that claim to do all and replacing them with more individualised beauty routines that use multiple products and layering. Our Biomimic Vitamin C + Ferulic has done particularly well over the past year and was the winner of the best daily essentials product in the Prevention Beauty Awards.” It’s controversial, but I think organic anti-ageing skincare has peaked, he says. “During lockdowns, we have become motivated by self-discovery. What people are learning is that something organic and free from anything enhanced by a laboratory is likely to compromise the efficacy and effectiveness of an anti-ageing product. Some synthetic ingredients

SOCIAL MEDIA UPLIFT/ SUSTAINABILITY RULES

In Australia, we predominantly retail through our online store, which proved to be a bonus last year during lockdowns, says Janet Hayward, Founder of Ipsum Skincare. “Our hero products were Best

Lucy Macdougald, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF BIOLOGI

emphasis on no-fuss approaches that turn their backs on previous trends such as K Beauty or 10-step routines, taking skincare routines back to the absolute basics. The good news is that these trends save time, money, bathroom cabinet space and reveal your best skin yet.” Solbari is an Australian 360 sun protection brand offering skin health solutions worldwide and our categories cover skincare, UBF50+ clothing, accessories and swimwear, says Johanna Young, CEO and Co-Founder. “One

Johanna Young, CEO AND CO-FOUNDER, SOLBARI

Janet Hayward, FOUNDER OF IPSUM SKINCARE

Skin Face Oil Intense Treatment, Lip Oil Balm and Best Skin Cleansing Oil Balm. Social media played a big part in driving the success of these products, even though we sold out and had waiting lists as production schedules and ingredientsourcing were affected by pandemic restrictions.” Any product that can offer an additional wellbeing benefit will do well in 2022, she says. “The less is more approach will fuel the popularity of facial concentrates. Extended mask wearing will also benefit lip care products as more people are able to enjoy wearing lipstick again. I definitely believe that makeup and fragrance are set for a resurgence, particularly natural plant fragrances because of their aromatherapy benefits. Throughout this year, we will also see more innovation in premium recyclable packaging, as we have already seen in the food industry - because customers are demanding it.” The product that performed particularly well for us this year is our award-winning Bc Refresh Cleanser, a serum cleanser that is free from water or any other ingredient that can dilute the actives, says Lucy Macdougald, Managing Director of Biologi. “My predictions for 2022 are related to an array of skincare trends which are all founded on the basis of less is more - Skinimalism, Skin Fasting and Skin Microdosing. There will be a huge

of our best-performing products is our sensitive skin range of Moisturising SPF50+ sunscreen for face and body. We also have a Calming Cream to complement the sunscreen, which is designed for people with sensitive skin issues such as psoriasis and eczema.” Young believes that products designed around the sensitive skin segment will continue to do well this year because of allergies and intolerances linked to the environment and diet. “Brands that focus on prevention and detection solutions will benefit because that’s where the market is heading. I think the technology health space related to health is one of the biggest growth areas. More and more people are using our Solbari Skin Cancer Detection App, which is clinically validated to help people check suspicious moles and more.” BRUSH AND LASH REVIVAL

Lady Jayne’s market leader status strengthened in 2021, consistently outpacing category growth rates over the year and driving value in the hair tools and accessories category, says Juliette Toolin, Marketing Manager - Everyday Essentials Beauty, McPherson’s Consumer Products. “A stellar result

Juliette Toolin, MARKETING MANAGER EVERYDAY ESSENTIALS BEAUTY, MCPHERSON’S CONSUMER PRODUCTS

TALKING POINT

derived from nature can be specially manipulated to target collagen-promoting proteins. A hybrid approach of both natural and artificial can be more effective and stable.” As we emerge from the pandemic, perfume and makeup will see a rise in popularity, adds Mazy. “My top prediction for 2022 is personalised beauty, specifically diagnostic tools and greater product selection diversity within a range. We are already seeing major companies such as L’Oréal and Clinique adopt more personalised beauty and skincare ranges.”

driven by a strong-performing, wide-reaching portfolio, solid core distribution in leading pharmacy and grocery and the successful launch of new products. In October 2020, Lady Jayne launched a range of premium tier fashion accessories across pins, slides, headbands and scrunchies in trend colours and designs. The range exceeded expectations, generating solid baseline sales supported by a dedicated communication plan tailored to influence and educate through digital and social platforms.” Lady Jayne also launched premium, innovative styling brush formats within the Professional range, she says. “The Beach Waves Oval barrel and Hourglass combination bristle, in addition to introducing new infused bristle technology with the Tangle Pro Wet brush. These strategic launches were designed to drive penetration and volume by catering to broader haircare usage occasions. This resulted in Lady Jayne accounting for more than 6 out of every 10 brushes purchased in Australia over the past 12 months.” Manicare was well-positioned in the market to capitalise on the significant shift to DIY beauty and self care, she adds. “In late 2020, Manicare launched the MicroNeedle Derma, Roller, Fuzz Remover and Massage Globe, which quickly gained traction in the market supported with tailored communication investment. The introduction of affordable powered devices such as a sonic cleanser and EMS facial massager have also generated an incremental $2.4 million in scan sales to the core business over the past three years. In 2021, Manicare’s core range commanded a strong position with 6 out of the top 10 SKUs attributed to the brand.” Glam by Manicare also continued to fuel growth through innovative launches, says Toolin. “The usage occasions for lashes

Consumers are seeking to engage with brands that can provide additional value through education and service. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |47

TALKING POINT

shifted with the increase in video conferencing and mask wearing as consumers placed more emphasis on eyes. Glam was well positioned with new launches such as the Glam Magnetising and Eyeliner lash ranges. The successful uptake of both launches was supported by a dedicated communication campaign through trend leaders and influencers. The brand introduced more easy-to-wear lashes to drive market penetration such as preglued formats designed for instant application without the need to apply glue. Glam also expanded into accessories such as a precision lash applicator and revolutionary heated lash curler with heated silicone pads for a DIY lash lift.” AFFORDABILITY AND INNOVATION/ NATURAL ADVANTAGE

Designer Brands Cosmetics experienced huge success even during the Covid-19 pandemic, as we maintained our promise to deliver affordable prices with the same - if not better quality -than high-end brands, says Amanda Connors, Global Marketing Director, Total Beauty Network. “We continued to innovate and also saw big growth in our Designer Brands fragrances.”

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Throughout this year, we will also see more innovation in premium recyclable packaging, as we have already seen in the food industry - because customers are demanding it.

Amanda Connors, GLOBAL MARKETING DIRECTOR, TOTAL BEAUTY NETWORK

The health and wellness-inspired beauty category continued to grow, she says. “Our all natural, certified organic skincare brand Inika Organic and superfoodinfused Raww beauty brand both experienced significant growth in sales and distribution over the past 12 to 18 months.

Colour by TBN sold an incredible two million bottles of its cruelty-free vegan nail polish in 2021. As the number one budget nail brand in pharmacies, this result highlighted consumers demand for some joy and happiness during the pandemic.” The Global Wellness Economy is now valued at $4.4 trillion by the Global Wellness Institute and Total Beauty Network has a vision to make healthy, ethical beauty accessible, she says. “All four TBN brands - Designer Brands, Raww, Colour by TBN and INIKA Oganic - are certified vegan and cruelty-free, and it’s this commitment to a health-focused company ethos that has positioned the business for the wellness obsession we are currently experiencing.” We think makeup will bounce back strongly as we hopefully edge towards the end of the pandemic, says Connors. “We predict Designer Brands’ fragrances will continue to boom, as they deliver an incredible designer-inspired product at great value. Nails and nail art will once again be big as a simple way for people to try and inject fun and colour into their world. We also believe consumers will continue to support Australian homegrown wellness beauty brands. Consumers will also continue to seek makeup with

skincare and anti-ageing benefits and Skinimalism will remain a big trend.” Bodycare did surprisingly well due to the working from home and self-care trends last year, says Janet Southern, PR & Digital Marketing for Helios Health & Beauty. “We particularly

Janet Southern, PR & DIGITAL MARKETING FOR HELIOS HEALTH & BEAUTY

noticed increased sales in Moom Organic Hair Removal System and Moom Natural Express Wax Strips and all Dr Hauschka body care products. A similar increase was seen in our Less is More Organic Hair Care - mainly in the extensive range of leave-in and special treatments and styling and finish products.” We think face care will continue to do well, she says. “Dr Hauschka’s launch of three moisturisers last year extended the number of daytime moisturisers in the orange band collection to nine. There is also a further three moisturisers in the Regenerating and Regenerative Intensive ranges to support maturing skin. It is possible that liquid hand soaps have peaked, but we think that natural and organic home fragrance/essential oils are set for a resurgence. In terms of makeup, we saw a bounce back of eye-makeup in 2021. As for lipsticks and mask-wearing, we shall have to see what 2022 brings.” Weleda celebrated 100 years in 2021 and seeing our hero product, Skin Food, formulated in 1926 gain more popularity than ever, really is a testament to our products standing the test of time, says Charmaine Pichler, Head of Marketing, Weleda Australia. “Skin

Charmaine Pichler, HEAD OF MARKETING, WELEDA AUSTRALIA

Food Body Butter, although a recent addition to the range, is fast becoming a bestseller for us and won numerous global and national awards last year.” Demand for our Mother & Baby Care continues to be strong as customers increasingly turn to natural products for their pregnancy journey and beyond, she says. “As we embark on yet another uncertain year for the retail sector, we believe e-commerce will continue to

make up a significant portion of our business. Brands such as ours will be working hard to convert some of the important storytelling aspects that make us unique, such as Fair Trade initiatives, B-Corp certification and biodynamic principles, into bite-sized chunks that grab the Weleda’s hero consumer’s attention. product, Skin Food, formulated in 1926 , So, we are seeing a is now more popular bigger investment than ever. in creating digital campaigns that connect with consumers and align with their expectations of ethical and sustainable business practices.” HEALTH CROSSOVER

2021 was the year of wellcare, says Maggie Maroussis, National Learning and Development Manager, Heritage Brands. “Our hero product

Maggie Maroussis, NATIONAL LEARNING AND DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, HERITAGE BRANDS

from the In Essence brand was our iconic Sleep blend and we also launched IE Sleep No Lavender. This new product offers all the benefits of our original blend without the polarising scent of lavender which 40 per cent of consumers don’t like.” Wellness and self-care trends will continue to gain traction this year, in addition to products that support a holistic lifestyle, she says. “Our range of IE Therapeutics, particularly blends such as IE Stress and IE Anxiety, will continue to be our strongest performers. We know that 1 in 4 Australians are experiencing some form of anxiety and having a

TGA-listed product readily available on shelf offers accessible, effective and natural relief. Brands will also have to offer education as well as product. Online education and access to experts such as our sleep expert, Dr Carmel Harrington, are important and necessary in developing long term habits suitable for a more holistic lifestyle.” We don’t see the interest in stress and sleep-related products subsiding, say Stephanie Rep and Phoebe Morley, Co-Founders of Oil in Kind. “Our

Stephanie Rep and Phoebe Morley, CO-FOUNDERS OF OIL IN KIND

Geo Design Ceramic Diffuser continued to be our best seller in 2021, combining therapeutic benefits and understated decor design. We are also seeing a growth in women searching for essential oils to support mood, hormonal balance and sexual health and think this category will explode in 2022. Synthetic fragrances and candles have had their day as consumers look for multi-benefit products that make their homes smell beautiful and have a therapeutic effect.” As the e-commerce market continues to evolve, we’ve noticed that online marketing tactics such as flash sales and low-quality content are having less of an impact, add Rep and Morley. “Consumers are seeking to engage with brands that can provide additional value through education and service. We’ve also seen many brands impacted by the changing algorithms of Google and social media, ourselves included. We predict that there will be a real focus on brands organically building their own marketing channels as a way to provide a truly authentic and ownable experience for their customers.”

Wellness and self-care trends will continue to gain traction this year, in addition to products that support a holistic lifestyle. The hero product from the In Essence brand was the iconic Sleep blend. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |49

FEATURE

METAVERSE:

A new way for businesses to connect with consumers?

The metaverse could be a market worth $800 billion by 2024, according to Bloomberg Intelligence. Although not a new concept and with a long road ahead, the word “Metaverse” has been on everyone’s lips since Facebook rebranded itself as Meta and thus positioned itself as a major player in the new virtual world. Cezar Pereira, Strategic Account Director at Tiendeo, a company that specialises in the digitalisation of the retail sector, asks: Are we facing a fleeting fad or a new world that is opening the doors to a powerful business model? A WHOLE NEW UNIVERSE IN THE MAKING

The Metaverse is a virtual space that we can connect to through devices such as virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) glasses or helmets and applications that offer the promise of an immersive experience that feels like we are actually there, interacting with other people and objects. In this alternative world, everything will be possible through an avatar: buying goods and services, attending concerts, travelling, playing games and even working. The amazing thing about this universe is that you can teleport from one experience to another without leaving your room. The development of the metaverse seeks to extend the real world into the virtual world by making everyday actions into a spectacle. WHAT MAKES THE METAVERSE SO APPEALING?

The great potential of this technology as a business model is what has led several companies to create their own “omniverses”. To be successful they must understand that the user ventures into the metaverse to escape from the real world, because it offers them the alluring possibility of creating their own personality: to show themselves as they “feel” they are and not how they are physically, taking the user experience to another level. This introduces a new form of interaction between consumers and brands through the D2A (direct-to-avatar) model where we will no longer buy clothes for ourselves, but for our representation in the metaverse. The challenge for companies will be to get people to carry out the bulk of their activities in this digital universe, just as we do in the physical world, giving rise to virtual marketplaces that already move large sums of money. THE METAVERSE AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE RETAIL SECTOR

The opportunities offered by the Metaverse are endless, especially in the field of commerce. Technology company Wildbytes estimates that in the next five years, 70% of major brands will have a presence in the Metaverse. By 2023 some companies are already promising to launch a new product while others are already looking at the possibility of 50| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

In this alternative world, everything will be possible through an avatar: buying goods and services, attending concerts, travelling, playing games and even working. creating shopping centres, boutiques and virtual shops where avatars will be able to buy NFT products and pay in cryptocurrencies. The retail sector is one of the most heavily invested in the Metaverse. For example, Gucci has already started selling its own virtual clothing, the Gucci Virtual 25 trainers and H&M has recently launched its first virtual collection through Nintendo’s social simulation game Animal Crossing. Ikea also uses AR technology in its App to allow customers to create their own spaces and see how furniture would look in the physical world using AR technology. There are brands that go even further and have no hesitation about making a clear commitment to the Metaverse. This is the case for Nike, which has gone so far as to create its own virtual universe: Nikeland. A space that offers access to various sporting arenas, as well as a showroom where users can equip their avatars with Nike shoes to take part in competitions. The brand also uses it as a testing ground so that younger generations can experience its new products through avatars before purchasing them in real life. In short, the metaverse revolution holds the promise of a digital experience in which the virtual world and the real world intertwine and merge under a single reality. It is now up to brands and retailers to find their place in it and explore its full potential.

100% Certified Natural & Organic Skincare

WELEDA

– NATURAL BEAUTY YOU CAN TRUST David Johnston, CEO Weleda Australia, the world’s leading manufacturer of certified natural skincare and anthroposophic medicines.

WHY HAS THE ‘FARM TO FACE’ CONCEPT BECOME A BEAUTY TREND? The notion of ‘farm to face’ or ‘soil to skin’ is the beauty industry’s response for a desire for transparency: telling a product’s back story - where and how it was grown, harvested, processed, packaged, shipped and sold, so that consumers can make a fully informed decision before they purchase. This is driven by consumers seeking reassurances about what they’re putting on and into their bodies. It is part of a more holistic and balanced approach to wellness. For us at Weleda, this isn’t a trend - it’s our way of life and has been so for almost one hundred years. In order to establish greater transparency, Weleda became one of only two skincare companies to join the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) back in 2011 – where our ingredients sourcing and business practices are independently verified, achieving the UEBT ’Sourcing with Respect’ label. This transparency, through certification, is essential to reduce ‘greenwash’ - marketing stories made to make the brand look ‘cleaner’ and ‘greener’ than it really is. KEY BENEFITS OF BRANDS GROWING THEIR OWN INGREDIENTS ✓ Stewardship of land to protect and conserve biodiversity above and below ground ✓ Maximum potency of ingredients as they are harvested and processed at optimum times ✓ Quality assurance and less reliance on ingredients impacted by climate change ✓ Ethical trade conditions for employees and partners We grow most of the plants we use through our own biodynamic gardens or through collaboration with farming partners across the globe. In doing so we can control the quality of our ingredients, the manufacturing processes we use to create the extracts ensuring the highest levels of actives, the sustainability of our production, and ultimately the highest quality assurance for our customers. We train and teach biodynamics – a ‘super-organic’ way of farming that focuses on creating a balanced, closed sustainable system in which biodiversity and soil health are paramount. 52| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

A key issue today in beauty products is contamination and even certified-organic ingredients come with this risk. If you’re the one in control of all your processes, then you’re less likely to be affected by market fluctuations, whether caused by weather, war or economic manipulation. This allows you to maintain (and even improve standards) and foster true sustainability as you are managing your supply chain. On a purely aesthetic/emotional level, it’s wonderful to have our own medicinal gardens, the largest in the world, where people can come to see the plants growing biodynamically. We manage approximately 248 square km worldwide organically. We use over 120 plants, freshly picked, in our Weleda tinctures, to deliver the highest potency. Our gardens are beautiful and help make the connection in peoples’ minds between nature and the products that they use. HOW IS THE NEW CONCEPT OF ‘SOIL TO SKIN’ THE NEXT STEP IN ‘CLEAN BEAUTY’? At Weleda, we have always prodcuced ‘clean beauty’. And with the largest biodynamic gardens in Europe and long-term partnerships around the world, the first step in growing healthy vibrant plants is the soil. Soil is the beginning of everything: our food, clothes, homes, beauty products. Healthy soil also holds three times as much carbon as the atmosphere helping us act impact positive in a world of climate change. For Weleda “Soil to Skin” portrays a more regenerative holistic approach to clean beauty. Our long-term partnerships, such as our sesame partners in Mexico or wild rose in Morocco, are discovering how regenerative farming practices benefit their business, biodiversity and the world. HOW WILL THIS NICHE TREND AFFECT THE WIDER BEAUTY INDUSTRY AS A WHOLE? Our planet is in crisis, climate change is a reality and the beauty industry needs to step up and take responsibility for its actions. We’re working on sustainability and regeneration not being niche, but mainstream. That’s why the UEBT certification scheme is so important and we urge other brands to commit to work towards these standards. Just as NATRUE certifies the naturalness of the ingredients to a really high standard, so UEBT verifies the full supply chain.

HYDRATING FACIAL CARE With prickly pear cactus - nature’s answer to hyaluronic acid

Weleda beauty experts have found a way to harness the revitalising and moisturising powers of organic prickly pear cactus in a new facial care series to give the skin a fresh feeling and provide scientifically proven, long-lasting hydration. Each of the four individual formulas increase the moisture content of the skin and make the skin feel weightless and intensely hydrated. Precious plant oils strengthen the natural protective layer of the skin and prevent it from drying out – at any age.

THE JOURNEY OF THE PRICKLY PEAR CACTUS Weleda has searched long and hard for a prickly pear cactus with the right quality features and found it in its original homeland of Mexico. The sample of the Opuntia ficus-indica cladody from organic cultivation in Mexico showed a particularly high content of mucilage and is therefore the ideal basis for developing a hydrating facial care product.

PRICKLY PEAR EXTRACT Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract Extracts from the cladodes of the prickly pear are characterised in particular by the long-chain sugars, minerals and polyphenols they contain. Aqueous extracts made from them create an intensively moisturising and protective layer on the skin and have a soothing effect. Therefore, the extract is especially well suited for the care of dry skin.

DRYING AND TRANSPORT Our organic prickly pear is gently dried in the sun after harvesting. Great care is taken to ensure that the raw material does not come into contact with conventional prickly pear and could be contaminated. After drying, the prickly pear weighs around 8% of its original weight, and can thus be transported to Germany for further processing in a more environmentally friendly way.

FIRMING FACIAL CARE With powerful pomegranate seed oil

Renew and activate ageing skin with the power of organic pomegranate seed oil: nature’s highly effective antioxidant and free-radical hunter. Pomegranate Firming Facial Care is the perfect ally to firm the skin, help reduce the signs of ageing and activate cell renewal.

punicic acid (an unsaturated fatty acid). This valuable vegetable oil also has antioxidant properties that improves the regeneration of the skin and is therefore considered to be an outstanding skin care product for dry, aging and stressed skin.

POMEGRANATE SEED OIL Punica Granatum Seed Oil The yellow to reddish coloured, relatively thick pomegranate seed oil is one of the active agent oils and is rich in the rare

FAIR TRADE POMEGRANATE Weleda‘s pomegranates are grown in Turkey where Weleda has been supporting around 50 small-scale farmers with good work and fair wages since 2008.

SKIN FOOD

Powerful plant botanicals to feed dry skin This deeply nourishing cream contains organic plant extracts, fine plant oils and waxes known for their richness and gentleness. The refreshing fragrance is from pure essential oils including sweet orange and lavandulae, so artificial preservatives or parabens are not needed. All enveloped in a nourishing base of organic sunflower seed oil and almond oil, beeswax and the purest, protective hypoallergenic lanolin. No wonder dry skin devours it. SKIN FOOD PLANT ACTIVES Chamomile Flower Extract The flowers of this plant possess gentle healing and

anti-inflammatory properties. In skincare products it is often paired with Calendula, the combination having a soothing, calming effect. Wild Pansy Extract The tiny viola tricolor is particularly good for smoothing rough or cracked skin and helps keep even the flakiest of dry skin soft and supple. Rosemary Leaf Extract Known for its revitalising, stimulating action, rosemary is traditionally used for its restorative and tonic properties. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |53

CALENDULA BABY CARE

100% certified natural and developed by experienced midwives, the Calendula Baby care range supports baby’s delicate skin with the kindest, natural, sustainably sourced ingredients.

BIODYNAMIC CALENDULA Cultivation of the plant for fresh processing mainly takes place in Weleda’s medicinal garden in southern Germany. Every summer, in June, the medicinal plant garden starts to bloom: calendula illuminates the landscape with hundreds of thousands of radiant orange flowers, covering an area of one hectare. Around three tonnes of flowers are picked by hand and then over fourteen tons of leaves and stems are harvested. They act as the basis for tinctures and herbal extracts in almost 30 Weleda medicinal and natural skincare products. CARING CALENDULA: HEALING AND SOOTHING For centuries calendula has been treasured for its protective and comforting properties, being able to relieve initial redness or irritation, providing relief to young skin, and leaving it soft and smooth. Ideal for treating nappy rash, cradle cap and contributing to the formation of healthy new skin tissue. Weleda uses only certified organic calendula flowers grown in their biodynamic gardens which are harvested when the valuable active ingredients, such as carotenoids and flavonoids, have reached their highest levels. This way the calendula is able to provide intensive nourishment to the skin, particularly in the development phase. The flowers are hand-picked and blended into a tincture on the same day, thus retaining the natural goodness and vitality of the plant. 54| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

FEATURE

prepare

How to your body for Covid Dr Vincent Candrawinata, affectionately known as Dr Vincent, the world’s foremost expert on phenolic antioxidants, clinical nutritionist, cellular researcher and founder of Renovatio, has revealed that by boosting your immune system you are more able to fight colds and flu, as well as combating viruses such as Covid. With Omicron continuing to spread through the community, many people believe it is just a matter of time before they get Covid-19. “People are scared and worried about what will happen to them if they get Covid,” Dr Vincent said. “This is understandable, as the media is publicising a lot of scary stories about the virus and its impact on people. The good news is that vaccinations and booster shots are helping people to recover from Covid without significant health issues. “The important thing to remember is that your immune system is your first line of defence. The stronger your immune system, the better your body can cope with sickness. This is why it is important to prepare your body for Covid. “The easiest and best way to prevent getting unwell is, and has always been, to employ general healthy-living strategies.” So, what actionable, easy steps does Dr Vincent recommend for boosting your immune system and practicing preventative care? EAT MORE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

Fuelling your body with foods that are high in antioxidants is proven to boost your overall health and wellbeing, and help protect you from viruses. Fruit and vegetables are nutrient-dense and have antiinflammatory properties to help build up your body’s immune system defence. Dark leafy greens, berries, salmon and sweet potatoes are some of the ‘must-haves’ when viruses are moving around. While energising your body with nutritious foods, it is also important to avoid excess sugars and processed foods. These foods, as well as restrictive eating that can lead to malnourishment, dramatically decrease your body’s immune function. Starting your day with a well-balanced, nutrient-dense breakfast will support your immune system throughout the day. Try and consume a mix of healthy fats, fruit and vegetables. KEEP ACTIVE

Exercise is a natural immune system booster. Not only does it help to circulate oxygen through the body, but it also delivers a range of other benefits such as improved cardiovascular health, lowering blood pressure and controlling body weight. Research has revealed that people who exercise regularly report fewer colds. Exercise promotes good circulation that stimulates cells and substances of the immune system to move freely around the body and do their job more efficiently.

The stronger your immune system, the better your body can cope with sickness. GET PLENTY OF QUALITY SLEEP

Sleep is the time that your body restores and rejuvenates itself. For this reason, sleep is a key player in supercharging the immune system. While you sleep your body heals and repairs blood vessels, and produces more infection-fighting antibodies. These are two important factors for good physical health and fighting infectious diseases, especially viruses. Aim for a minimum of seven hours of sleep a night, and to take a 20-minute power nap during the day if you do not reach that. DRINK PLENTY OF WATER

Over 70 percent of the human body is made up of water and it plays a key part in helping our body to function properly. Keep hydrated and drink plenty of water. Dehydration can cause many issues including dry flaky skin, headaches, and lower organ performance. Drink at least four litres of water a day and always have a glass of water next to your bed at night so you can have a sip if you need to. BOOST YOUR BODY’S ANTIOXIDANTS

It is common for your diet not to deliver your body with all the micronutrients and antioxidants it needs – supplements can be the answer and have beneficial effects on your immune system. This is especially the case when your lifestyle may harm your immune system; in particular the impact of alcohol, stress, processed foods, lack of sleep, and smoking. Supplements like activated phenolics are powerful antioxidants that neutralise a wide range of free radicals to protect your cells from infection and inflammation. Your whole body is made up of cells. Viruses move through your body by attaching to cells. By strengthening your cells, you are reducing the capacity of viruses to spread through your body. Healthy cells also mean less illness and disease. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |55

SPOTLIGHT ON

Rosi Fernandez

FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 17 YEARS THE CANCER PATIENTS FOUNDATION, RESPONSIBLE FOR RUNNING THE LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER PROGRAM, HAS WELCOMED A NEW CHAIR TO THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS. Rosi Fernandez, Managing Director Australia and New Zealand of La Prairie Group, was appointed to the position at the end of 2021 but her relationship with the charity spans across two decades. After finishing university, Rosi started her career as a Sales Manager for David Jones in the beauty department in Bondi, and later moved to the Elizabeth Street store. It was during this time that she was first introduced to Look Good Feel Better and felt motivated by the charity and its purpose. “David Jones was a committed supporter of the Look Good Feel Better program and there were many opportunities for my team to assist with fundraising and volunteering at the workshops,” she said. “I knew that Look Good Feel Better was supported by many of the cosmetics companies and that made me proud to work in the industry. To know how competitive all the brands were on the ‘shop floor’, yet united to do good for this amazing cause was unique and inspirational.” Starting with just one workshop venue in Sydney in 1990, the Look Good Feel Better program has steadily expanded over the years to offer support in 180 venues Australia-wide, as well as online and in the home through virtual workshops and Home-Delivered Confidence Kits. As the program grew, the Board of Directors needed to grow with it, helping to increase presence in industry, support with vital industry relationships and ensure the long-term viability of the program.

The Look Good Feel Better team have expertly steered the charity through the challenging period of the pandemic to deliver uncompromised support for those facing a cancer diagnosis under more difficult circumstances than normal. 56| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

INTERVIEW

Sadly, both my mother and father passed away from cancer at a young age. It had a deep impact on me both times; my mother died when she was 46 and I was 10, and my father when he was 56 and I was 21.

In 2018, as the program was experiencing increased uptake by cancer patients and the charity moved into its own premises to further expand its service offerings, Rosi was nominated by Mette Engell (Coty Luxury), Uri Ferster (Frostbland), Terry Little (Estée Lauder Companies) and John Hawker to join the Board of Directors. “Sadly, both my mother and father passed away from cancer at a young age,” Rosi said. “It had a deep impact on me both times; my mother died when she was 46 and I was 10, and my father when he was 56 and I was 21. This difficult period has been imprinted into my behaviour and since then I have always appreciated the little things in life, along with being very grateful to be in good health. “Having attended a Look Good Feel Better workshop and spoken to many participants, I was so happy to discover that every patient who attends a workshop leaves feeling better. This is a rare strike rate. The joy the program participants feel during that workshop and that small moment of reprieve they get from their often-aggressive cancer treatment directly correlates with the healing process. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be involved in something so important to me, both personally and professionally.” When David Blakeley retired from Chanel last year he also retired as the Chair of the Cancer Patients Foundation Board, Rosi was eager to take the reins to help steer the charity into its next phase. “I am at the stage of my life that I now have more time,” she said. “My son is grown and the juggle between home and work is no longer such a stress. With that extra time, I have felt compelled to use my skills to help others so had been doing some mentoring and networking. In talking to some successful people, I noticed that many of them felt deep rewards from donating their expertise to help others and that prompted me to take the step to become even more involved with the Cancer Patients Foundation. As a group, the La Prairie team have always assisted with fundraising for the Foundation’s Look Good Feel Better program, so stepping up and making even more of a commitment felt like a natural progression. “There is an extraordinary amount of experience on the Board that was professionally led by David. He was a force for so many years and is known by many in the industry due to his tenure at Estée Lauder and then Chanel. I have huge shoes to fill and I will need to draw on the extensive experience and capabilities of my Board colleagues. The Cancer Patients Foundation is a not-for-profit and we are an unpaid Board of Directors. I am constantly in awe of how much personal time each of the Directors gives to support the charity and know how much they are capable of achieving.” Moving into its 32cd year, the charity expects to support up to 10,000 women, men and teens through their cancer diagnosis this year. Face-to-face workshops, virtual workshops and HomeDelivered Confidence Kits will continue to be available, along with a new service-offering in Feel Better Fridays. Feel Better Fridays will be delivered as virtual workshops, focusing on positively impacting both the physical and mental health of

cancer patients across Australia through movement, nutrition, and general wellbeing. There are plans for the annual Dream Ball to also go ahead this year after two missed years, causing significant loss of income for the charity. “The Look Good Feel Better team have expertly steered the charity through the challenging period of the pandemic to deliver uncompromised support for those facing a cancer diagnosis under more difficult circumstances than normal,” Rosi said. “My hope for 2022 is that the charity continues to unite the industry to do even more for cancer patients across the country. I’m excited by all the possibilities. What has struck me since working with the charity is that there is extraordinary support throughout our generous industry and overwhelmingly, many people want to help and be involved but just don’t know how. If everyone in our industry gives just a little bit of time, effort and a small donation, we can make a huge impact on so many people’s lives. “2022 is going to be an exceptional year of recovery and renewed enthusiasm. I can’t wait to work with the Look Good Feel Better team and the cosmetic industry as a whole to help achieve our goals. I plan do lots of work that I am proud of !”

HOW YOU CAN HELP

• B uild awareness of this amazing service by following and sharing on Facebook, Instagram and LinkedIn @ LGFBAustralia, and signing up to the newsletter at lgfb.org.au • Spread the word amongst your contacts – the beauty industry is one of such powerful connections with people from every walk of life. The more people talk about the program, the more people know the program exists, and the more people can benefit from the program’s support. • B uy a table (or three!) at Dream Ball, or talk to the team about sponsorship and prize donation opportunities. Dream Ball is on Friday 13th May in Sydney and it’s set to be the best one yet! Email fundraising@lgfb.org.au • Get some friends or colleagues together and raise some funds. Donate at lgfb.org.au/donate • I f you know someone with cancer, let them know Look Good Feel Better is here to help lgfb.org.au/workshop • If you’d like to discuss the donation of stock for Confidence Kits for program participants, contact info@lgfb.org.au • If you’re interested in volunteering, apply at lgfb.org. au/join-our-team

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5 minutes with...

Sally Obermeder Founded by Sally Obermeder and her certified health coach sister Maha Corbett, SWIISH is an all-natural, effective and delicious range designed to support health and wellbeing. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with one of Australia’s most loved TV personalities who opens up about her health battles, passion for fitness and business lessons as a brand creator. 58| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

INTERVIEW

AFTER COMPLETING A BACHELOR OF COMMERCE, YOU WORKED IN FINANCE AND INVESTMENT BANKING, BEFORE LEAVING TO PURSUE A CAREER IN TELEVISION IN 2003. WHY THE CAREER CHANGE?

While at school, I always dreamed of working in TV but opted for the “safe” career option. Whilst I loved my decade in investment banking and it’s helped me enormously over the years, I eventually hit the point where I decided life was too short to always be wondering ‘What if ?’. So, I bit the bullet, left my career, and took a shot at my dream. It would be four long, tough years before I got my first break, but that time taught me the value of never giving up. WHY DID YOU CREATE SWIISH?

SWIISH exists because everybody deserves to feel amazing. And because we firmly believe that feeling amazing, doesn’t have to be complicated. We create solutions that are easy and effective and to see so many lives changed and improved, fills us with joy and drives us to keep creating marketing leading wellness products. HOW DID YOU SUCCESSFULLY MARKET SWIISH?

At our core we are a heart-led brand - we show and share with our community not just how to use our SWIISH products but also the best way they can improve their wellness across a range of areas – from recipes to guided meditation to interviews with other experts. SWIISH is wellness products and also programs – like our Exhaustion Detox Program or our cult 21 Day Gut + Skin Cleanse, which our community do every year together. The sense of support and combined achievement is palpable and such a buzz for our while community. We have a presence across multiple platforms – Instagram, Tik Tok, edms, founder letters directly to our community and events. We are accessible to our community who feel as connected to us as we do to them. WHAT’S IT LIKE WORKING WITH YOUR SISTER? WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS/CHALLENGES OF GOING INTO BUSINESS WITH A FAMILY MEMBER?

Personally I love it. I’d have it no other way – but like anything it comes with its pros and cons. For us, we love the immediate shorthand that exists between us – so much is unspoken. I know her strengths, she knows my weaknesses and vice versa. Our commitment to each other and community team and business is unwavering and to have a partnership like that is incredible. One downfall that can happen and we’ve been through this is that you spend all your time talking about work. You forget the personal side of your relationship. We definitely experienced that in the first few years.

I have a deep understanding of what it’s like to be sick, really sick – and by contrast I know what it feels like to be well.

YOU WERE DIAGNOSED WITH AN AGGRESSIVE FORM OF BREAST CANCER JUST A DAY BEFORE YOUR DAUGHTER WAS BORN – HOW DID THIS IMPACT YOUR PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL LIFE?

Without a doubt this changed everything for me. It made me stronger and more resilient, but also softer and kinder. I have a deep understanding of what it’s like to be sick, really sick – and by contrast I know what it feels like to be well. That’s how SWIISH was born. From my hospital bed I called Maha and said: “Let’s help people feel well.” YOU ARE AN AMBASSADOR FOR THE NATIONAL BREAST CANCER FOUNDATION – TELL US A BIT MORE ABOUT THAT?

I am so passionate about my charities and giving back as much a s I can. Every day I thank the universe that I survived. This is not something I take lightly. I feel so fortunate to be and so I do all I can. I work with the National Breast Cancer Foundation, the Breast Cancer Network of Australia, the Sony Foundation and the Nelune Foundation. All these incredible organisations make a huge difference in the lives of so many Australians, and I’m incredibly proud of the work we do. WHY IS THE WELLNESS INDUSTRY THRIVING?

Wellness is nothing new – what is new, is that we now understand that we don’t have to wait to get sick in order to try to get well. We understand that we have some level of ownership over our wellness and that’s a fantastic and very empowering feeling. What’s also brilliant is that we now have a wide ranging understand of what is wellness - It’s mental wellness, it’s physical fitness, it’s sleep, it’s food … there are so many aspects and the best part is that it’s not a ‘one size fits all’ solution. We are unique and so what makes up wellness for each of us should also be tailored to what we need and what works for us. AS A BUSINESS MENTOR, WHAT ADVICE CAN YOU SHARE WITH BRAND CREATORS/MAKERS?

Just start! So often I hear from entrepreneurs who have an idea but are afraid to take the leap because they don’t have all the answers mapped out. I always say, start and work it out as you go. You will undoubtedly face many hurdles and you can’t possibly plan for all of them before you start. So just know you’ll have them, know they will feel insurmountable, but also know you will get through them. Oh, and always read the fine print – in business, the devil is in the detail! https://www.swiish.com RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |59

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Crème de la Our round-up of the chart-topping pharmacy beauty products.

Chemist

Burt’s Bees Moisturizing Lip Balm in Watermelon www.burtsbees.com.au Ulta3 Care & Repair Liquid Lip Mask https://ulta3.com.au ModelCo Tan Water https://modelco.com Essence Pretty Natural Hydrating Foundation in Neutral Champagne https://essencemakeup.com Glow Bomb Fake Tan Removing Bath Bomb https://glowdryaustralia.com.au DB Skin Renew Ceramide Pressed Powder www.dbcosmetics.com.au Lucas’ Paw Paw Ointment https://lucaspapaw.com.au Maybelline Lifter Gloss www.maybelline.com.au Flower Beauty Powder Blush in Berry-More www.flowerbeauty.com Raww Superfood Crystal Glow Elixir www.rawwcosmetics.com Maybelline Superstay Ink Crayon www.maybelline.com.au Natio Treatments Goji Berry & Vitamin E Antioxidant Facial Essence www.natio.com.au Pure Paw Paw Ointment in Strawberry www.purepawpawointment.com.au Carmex Moisturising Lip Balm in Cherry and Strawberry www.carmex.com.au 62| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

Photos Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

W7 It’s Glow Prime https://w7makeup.com 1000Hour Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum https://1000hour.com.au Revlon Colorstay Satin Ink in Partner in Wine www.revlon.com Mavala Silicium Nail Color in Manaus https://mavala.com.au Klorane Dry Shampoo with Oat Milk www.klorane.com/au-en Revolution Haircare Bond Restore Styling Cream www.revolutionbeauty.com.au L’Oreal Paris True Match Super Blendable Foundation in Mahogony www.lorealparis.com.au Colgate Optic White Overnight www.colgate.com.au NYX Angel Veil Skin Perfecting Primer www.nyxcosmetics.com.au Quick Fixx Mattifying Fixing Mist www.revolutionbeauty.com.au Rimmel London Lasting Matte Concealer in Porcelain www.rimmellondon.com/en-au Joico K-Pak Color Therapy LusterLock Glossing Oil www.joico.com.au

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Your guide to APP2022 There are only a few weeks until Australia’s largest pharmacy conference and trade exhibition opens on the Gold Coast. APP2022 is the place for attendees to refresh their knowledge, reconnect with colleagues and view the latest industry innovations and product developments. APP provides the pharmacy industry with an unparalleled opportunity to come together and connect with colleagues, exchange ideas, view the latest products and services, network and, most importantly, have fun. Retail Beauty rounds up everything you need to know about the four-day conference.

Emma Fernance and Kos Sclavos officially open APP2021.

WHAT IS THE AUSTRALIAN PHARMACY PROFESSIONAL CONFERENCE & TRADE EXHIBITION (APP)?

APP is The Pharmacy Guild of Australia’s annual national conference and the largest pharmacy conference and trade show in Australia. APP offers attendees a comprehensive four-day educational program, exciting social activities and a trade exhibition showcasing the latest products, services and industry information. Covid-safe and face-to-face, the event is also the perfect format to reconnect with like-minded primary healthcare providers, trusted suppliers and other pharmacy industry heavyweights. WHEN AND WHERE IS THE CONFERENCE AND TRADE EXHIBITION BEING HELD?

The four-day conference will be a Covid-safe event.

64| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

There’ll be plenty of beauty brands on display at APP2022.

The conference and trade exhibition will be held at the Gold Coast Convention & Exhibition Centre (GCCEC). Conference sessions and the trade exhibition are held from Thursday, March 24 until Sunday, March 27, 2022. Please visit the Program page online at www.appconference.com for session information and times.

Pre-registration is highly encouraged. Online registration will remain open during the event, meaning you can register on your mobile phone or any other device before arriving onsite. WHO IS THE EVENT ORGANISER?

The organiser of the event is The Pharmacy Guild of Australia, Queensland Branch. Please contact the organiser by emailing events@qldguild.org.au or by calling 07 3831 3788. Rochelle Courtenay, Share the Dignity’s Founder and Managing Director at APP2021.

TRADE EXHIBITION OPENING TIMES

Thursday, March 24, 5:30pm – 8:30pm (Main exhibition hall open and Welcome Reception) Friday, March 25, 9:30am – 5:00pm Saturday, March 26, 9:30am – 5:00pm Sunday, March 27, 9.30am – 12:30pm KEY SESSIONS AT THIS YEAR’S CONFERENCE:

• C hanging times, emerging trends: a snapshot of Australia’s pharmaceutical industry, now and towards 2032 • Key elements to ensure the success of community pharmacy • Pharmacy performance – a snapshot of pharmacy operations • Now we need to get going – steps towards a full scope of pharmacy practice • Pharmacy leases post pandemic • Why sustainability is the new digital HOW MANY TRADE EXHIBITION STANDS WILL BE ON DISPLAY?

There will be over 400 trade stands showcasing the latest industry products and services. WHO CAN ATTEND?

Admission to conference sessions and the trade exhibition is restricted to professional persons working within the pharmacy industry. In order to reduce the number of people onsite at APP, non-industry family members and friends will be not be permitted to attend the trade exhibition this year. Guests are welcome to attend the Welcome Reception and Street Party. CAN I BRING EXTRA GUESTS TO THE SOCIAL EVENTS?

Yes, extra tickets to both the Welcome Reception and the APP Street Party can be purchased online with your registration. Additional Welcome Reception tickets can be purchased for $85 each and additional Street Party tickets for $110 each (the Street Party ticket price has been reduced to make it more affordable for partners and guests to attend with delegates). DO I NEED TO BE DOUBLE VACCINATED IN ORDER TO ATTEND APP?

In line with Queensland Government regulations, from 17 December 2021 it is a requirement of the Gold Coast Convention and Exhibition Centre and The Star Gold Coast that all visitors must be double vaccinated in order to attend an event held at these venues. In order to attend APP2022 proof of COVID-19 vaccination, or proof of an exemption from COVID-19 vaccination, is required for entry.

CONFERENCE

CAN I REGISTER ONSITE?

EVENTS:

Welcome Reception - The networking focal point of APP, the Welcome Reception provides the perfect opportunity to catch 01. up with colleagues, meet with suppliers and build new business relationships in a relaxed environment. Drinks and canapes included. When: Thursday, March 24, 5.30pm - 8.30pm Where: Trade Exhibition Area, GCCEC Pharmacy Assistant Networking Lunch - Come and network with like-minded pharmacy assistants plus meet the 2021 Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award National Winner, Ashleigh Hutson and the 2021 Glucojel Super Star Award Winner, Donna Williamson. This lunch is free for all pharmacy assistants. When: Saturday, March 26, 12.30pm - 1.30pm Where: Outdoor Terrace APP’s Jungle Boogie Street Party - Celebrate with pharmacy colleagues at APP’s Jungle Boogie Street Party. Join Tarzan, Jane and your pharmacy colleagues to network and create memories at pharmacy’s ‘night of nights’. Entertainment will include a live covers band, DJ, silent disco and jungle-inspired acts. Dinner and drinks included. Where: Event Centre, The Star Gold Coast Cost: Included in Full Registration incl Street Party Additional tickets: $110 per person Dress: Cocktail or jungle theme

02.

01. Retail Beauty’s Nicci Herrera with editor Michelle

Ruzzene at the APP2021 nautical-themed street party.

02. A silent disco will be part of the entertainment at the Jungle Boogie Street Party.

WHERE TO STAY:

If you’ve already registered, don’t forget to book your accommodation. Special conference accommodation rates have been negotiated with a range of hotels and apartments within close proximity to the conference venue, the Gold Coast Convention & Exhibition Centre.

WHAT IS THE CUT-OFF DATE FOR REGISTRATIONS?

Online Registrations will be open up to and during the event.

www.appconference.com RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |65

Pharmacy favourites The top-rated skincare products that pack a punch.

Swisse Skincare Bio-Retinol 0.5% Vitamin B3 10% Renewing Booster Serum https://swisse.com.au Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel www.neutrogena.com.au Nivea Refreshing Day Cream SPF 15 www.nivea.com.au Skin Physics Copper Peptides Advanced Age Defence Serum https://skinphysics.com.au Neutriderm C Scrub www.neutriderm.com.au La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum www.laroche-posay.com.au Invisible Zinc Face + Body Mineral Sunscreen SPF50 https://invisiblezinc.com.au Boost Lab Vitamin C Brightening Serum https://boostlabco.com The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA https://deciem.com/en-us/theordinary The Jojoba Company Jojoba Glow https://thejojobacompany.com.au Elucent Anti Ageing Night Moisturiser www.elucentskincare.com 66| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

Photos Credit Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Q+A Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum www.qandaskin.com Dr Lewinn’s Line Smoothing Complex S8 www.drlewinns.com.au Eau Thermale Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream www.avene.com.au Essano Vitamin C Brightening Eye Gel https://essano.com.au Trilogy Antioxidant+ Defence Serum www.trilogyproducts.com RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules www.rocskincare.com DermaGen Skin Radiance Lotion https://dermagen.net.au Bioré Daily Detox Exfoliator www.biore.com A’kin Ultra Hydrating Cream Mask www.akin.com.au Du’it Tough Hands for Her www.duit.com.au Alya Skin Pomegranate Exfoliator Facial Scrub https://alyaskin.com L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Filler + Hyaluronic Acid www.lorealparis.com.au Jergens Ultra Healing Body Balm www.jergens.com Weleda Skin Food www.weleda.com.au Bondi Sands Wonder Potion https://bondisands.com.au Merindah Botanicals Luxurious Face Cream www.merindahbotanicals.com.au

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PHARMACY NEWS

Walgreens confirms strategic plans to sell Boots

Walgreens Boots Alliance (WBA), one of the world’s largest retail, pharmacy and drug wholesale companies, was on track to be a winner during the Covid-19 pandemic. But its retail businesses in the US and the UK found it difficult to attract customers in spite of their essential status in both markets. Late last year, WBA hired Goldman Sachs, the global investment and banking firm, to explore options to sell Boots, the iconic UK chemist chain, or list it as a standalone business. The multinational has confirmed the possibility of a sale as it re-focuses on its healthcare business in the US. Private equity majors, Bain Capital and CVC Capital Partners, are working on a joint bid to acquire Boots but its early days yet, reports the Financial Times. Any successful offer will include No7, the Boots-owned beauty line, in addition to its 2200 stores worldwide. KKR, the US private equity giant, completed the privatisation of Boots in 2007, together with Italian pharmacy mogul Stefano Pessina. The deal was

the UK’s largest leveraged buyout to date. Walgreens, the US pharmacy major, bought a 45 per cent share in Boots in 2012 and took full control in 2014. In the 12 months to August 2020, Boots suffered an operating loss of $463.5 million against a profit of $374.55 million for the year prior, due to the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic.

There has been a turnaround in the first quarter of the 2022 fiscal year with sales increasing by 16.3 per cent because of increased foot traffic. Industry analysts believe that Boots has the potential to return to profitability as a standalone business under new ownership and further development of its digital operations, which have doubled since 2020.

Pharmacy and retail industry turning its back on paper receipts Australian fintech, Slyp, has confirmed national partnerships with several leading retailers, following its already successful rollout at Chemist Warehouse. The partnership will see the retailers switch off paper receipt printing – unless requested – for in-store purchases. Instead, Slyp smart receipts will be available to customers instantly via their banking app. NAB is the first bank to deploy the feature with other major banks also in the process of integrating Slyp technology. For the meantime, non-NAB cardholders can receive the smart receipts via SMS. The roll-out is powered by one of Slyp’s many point-of-sale integrations with Apparel21, enabling merchants to seamlessly switch on Slyp smart receipts to deliver a smarter, greener proof of purchase. 68| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

With further retail partnerships and additional bank integrations in the works, Slyp is planning to be in the hands of one in two Australians within the next 12 months. In doing so, Slyp could become the single biggest customer network in Australia. “We’re on a mission to eradicate paper

receipts at the point-of-sale and make sure that all Australians have access to the smart receipt experience,” Slyp CEO and co-founder, Paul Weingarth, said. “First, we saw single-use plastics go, and with the recent pledge by 100 countries to end and reverse deforestation by 2030, it’s time to do away with paper receipts. “Bricks-and-mortar retailers are emerging from what has been another incredibly tough year. Contactless has become the ‘new normal’ and customers are seeking retail environments that continue to keep them safe. By partnering with Slyp retailers can eliminate contact from the transaction experience while limiting the production of unnecessary paper waste.”

Chemist Warehouse Group virtually hosted the 2021 CW Retail Awards for Excellence, the second for the pharmacy powerhouse. The awards, which now occur annually, celebrate and honour the outstanding work of the community pharmacists, interns and pharmacy assistants within the business. A total of 42 state/territory awards and two national awards were presented during the ceremony. Award recipients were nominated by their peers and from there, selected by a panel of Chemist Warehouse Retail Directors and Senior Managers. Categories included Pharmacist of the Year, Preceptor of the Year, Intern of the Year and Pharmacy Assistant of the Year (full-time and part-time) in each state and territory in addition to the National Pharmacist of the Year and National Pharmacy Assistant of the Year awards. Sophie Louw from Tasmania (CWH Moonah) took out the top honour of the evening, winning the Mario Verrocchi National Pharmacist of the Year Award, named after the group’s Co-Founder and Chief Executive Officer.

Sophie was awarded the top gong for being a dedicated pharmacist who provided exceptional community pharmacy services during the pandemic while juggling the responsibilities of motherhood. She is a true professional, leader and mentor to her team who places the highest importance on the health, wellbeing and needs of her customers, according to Chemist Warehouse. Adrienne Riskas from Victoria (CWH Coburg Market) was awarded the Margaret Kinniburgh National Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award.

PHARMACY NEWS

Chemist Warehouse hosts second annual CW retail awards for excellence

The award is named in honour of long-standing staff member Margaret Kinniburgh who has been instrumental in evolving the Chemist Warehouse brand. Adrienne has been working for the group just over ten years and this award acknowledged her hard work and dedication to her staff and customers within her community. “It has been a difficult time world-wide over the past two years as we battle this pandemic and we are beyond proud of the dedication, passion and hard work of our staff on a daily basis”, Mario Verrocchi, Chief Executive Officer, Chemist Warehouse Group, said. “We are thrilled about hosting our second annual CW Retail Awards for Excellence, celebrating the amazing efforts of our team across the country. The incredible work conducted by our staff has ensured all Australians have access to medicines and healthcare and we are excited to be able to honour the exceptional performers with these awards, well done to all recipients.”

Watsons expands into Middle East with new store in Qatar Watson has opened its doors at Doha Festival City, Qatar, as part of its expansion plans across the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC). The GCC consists of six Middle Eastern countries—Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, the United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Bahrain, and Oman. Watsons, a health care and beauty care chain store in Asia and Europe, is the flagship health and beauty brand of the A.S. Watson Group, the world’s largest international health and beauty retailer operating over 16,300 stores under 12 retail brands in 29 markets. The opening in Qatar follows launches in Dubai Mall, Dubai Festival City, Mall of the Emirates and Al Wahda Mall in United Arab Emirates (UAE), and Mall of Dhahra in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA). In the Qatar store, customers have the chance to explore the nearly 3,000 sq ft ‘beauty-land’ with designated zones like Natural & Clean Beauty which features the

Sustainable Choices products, and an open makeup area so that customers can try out different looks and play around with a wide range of latest colour cosmetics. Jonathan Watts, General Manager of Watsons GCC at Al-Futtaim, said Watsons signed a franchise agreement with AlFuttaim in early 2020 “with the vision to bring fashionable and affordable beauty and lifestyle products to customers in the GCC region”. “Despite the COVID-19 pandemic interruption, these stores were opened in less than 24 months - Qatar is a truly vibrant and unique market,” he said. “While customers are getting more and more sophisticated about beauty and personal care, Watsons as the skin expert is delighted to bring our customers exclusive international brands. The excitement is

overwhelming as customers have been eagerly waiting for Watsons to expand across the GCC via our offline plus online) retail model, allowing beauty lovers of all generations to shop offline and online.” With the purpose to inspire customers to ‘Look good, do good, feel great’, Watsons brings more than 200 brands together from around the world, offering everything from makeup and skincare to haircare to personal care. Close to half of its products are exclusive at Watsons, including brands from the UK, France, Japan, and Korea. Some of the top pick brands include Deweytree, Holika Holika, Leaders, Superdrug, Target Pro by Watsons, and more. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |69

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THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA’S TRAINERS

Top Product Picks The Pharmacy Guild of Australia is a national employer’s organisation representing community pharmacy proprietors all across the country. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the Guild Workplace Trainers and Assessors to find out their top beauty picks from the pharmacy floor.

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ALICE VANDERPOL CERT IV COMMUNITY PHARMACY WORKPLACE TRAINER/ ASSESSOR

FEATURE

There are a few different flavours and formulations but Lemon Lime is my favourite.

1. A Good Eyebrow Pencil - Every girl from the 90s needs one of these. I have used a number of brands but I always come back to Natio or Designer Brands. Both are affordable and work really well. 2. Betadine Sore Throat Gargle – Not a beauty product, but a handbag must-have. This product may not taste the best, but it sure does do its job well. The best thing about this is that it isn’t just an anti-bacterial, but it’s also an antiviral product and most of the time sore throats originate from viruses (like Covid) and there are lots of antibacterial products on the market, but very little with the added anti-viral. Plus, its super easy to use with the accompanying medicine cup. 3. Probiotics - Who doesn’t love them? I tell my students all the time that I think everyone should be on a good probiotic. Probiotics are made up of good bacteria that helps keep your body healthy and working well. This good bacteria helps us in many ways, including fighting off bad bacteria when you have too much of it, preventing and treating mental health conditions, skin allergies and so much more. Our gut has a lot to answer for so if we look after it well it will look after us. BioCeuticals is an amazing brand and so is LifeSpace. SHARYN MCERLEAN CERT IV COMMUNITY PHARMACY DISPENSARY CERT IV TAE WORKPLACE TRAINER/ASSESSOR

4. Maybelline Dream Radiant Liquid Foundation - I have tried so many brands, but this one is a great colour match, applies easily and gives me great coverage all day long. Perfect for a touch up anytime too. 5. Hydralyte – I always have some of these in my handbag, they are so great for so many reasons. If I have a migraine, am feeling flat, travelling or I know I haven’t had enough water, especially in the Queensland summer, these are my go-to. There are a few different flavours and formulations but Lemon Lime is my favourite. The hot hydration drink is great for a cold too. 6. Aquim Anti Bacterial Hand Sanitiser - I always have one of these babies in my handbag and on my desk at work. They are so convenient and don’t leave my hands feeling dry. I was using these before they ‘came into fashion’. LINDEN PIRRONE CERT IV TAE, CERT IV COMMUNITY PHARMACY WORKPLACE TRAINER/ASSESSOR

7. Chanel Number 5 – When asked what she wore to bed, Marilyn Monroe famously replied, ‘I only wear Chanel No 5’. I wear this every day and feel naked if I forget to spray it on. 8. Bepanthan – Although it’s meant for cracked nipples or nappy rash, it is amazing for keeping lips soft and hydrated. Try it. 9. L’Oreal Paris 10.21 Stockholm – This is a very light pearl blonde permanent hair dye. It blends the greys and yes, it does make me have more fun! RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |71

No time to waste Accord Australasia, as the peak body for the cosmetic industry, is involved in several collective initiatives on plastic packaging waste for the cosmetic industry. By Dr Jennifer Semple

WHAT IS PRODUCT STEWARDSHIP FOR COSMETICS PACKAGING?

The packaging space in Australia is abuzz. We have National Packaging Targets. A National Plastics Plan. And states and territories have their eyes firmly fixed on ‘problematic plastic packaging’. Internationally, the United Nations Environment Programme is negotiating a Treaty on Marine Litter and Plastic Pollution. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY?

Given the level of government focus on packaging waste, not just in Australia, and with history demonstrating that the cosmetic industry is often targeted on issues regardless of the scale of its contribution to the issues —think microbeads, animal testing—what is clear 72| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

is that positive actions by our industry on waste will be expected. Fortunately, many leading brands are already on track with packaging design and waste reduction. It is on important sustainability issues like this where collaboration becomes particularly effective. Collaboration through information sharing; collaboration through collective initiatives to drive, scale and measure impact. Just think of BeadRecede, the voluntary industry initiative that effectively removed over 99% of plastic microbeads from rinse-off cosmetics.

ACCORD

Some policy approaches that may work well for other industry sectors just won’t fit easily with cosmetics. Additionally, recognition is needed that plastic packaging can have safety and sustainability advantages over more fragile or heavier materials like glass or steel. Accord Australasia, as the peak body for the cosmetic industry, is involved in several collective initiatives on plastic packaging waste for the cosmetic industry. SMALL-FORMAT COSMETICS WASTE STEWARDSHIP PROJECT

Circular economy organisation Close the Loop is currently developing a small-format cosmetics waste recycling program. This is supported by a federal government product stewardship grant and the close involvement of Accord Australasia along with leading cosmetic and retail brands. The volume of small-format cosmetic packaging waste is relatively small. However, as product residue and packaging complexity often make cosmetic packaging hard to recycle through normal processes, most ends up in landfill. This project aims to maximise the circular economy utilisation of cosmetic packaging waste, with the dual benefits of diverting waste from landfill and as a contaminant in the kerbside recycling stream. To help guide the project and strengthen its potential to cover positive industry actions already underway, Accord convened a reference group of cosmetic industry leaders to liaise with senior management at Close the Loop. “These discussions stressed the importance of educating consumers on proper recycling options and approaches”, Accord Policy Director Mr Craig Brock said. “It’s also expected there will be plenty of interest in the project’s various take-back and sorting trials, which are due to commence in early 2022. Understanding the costs and benefits of different approaches for waste collection will help to better drive more effective stewardship in our industry.” The project is heading towards an umbrella approach for smallformat cosmetic waste stewardship that encompasses and rewards the good work already underway by various brands. Project launch is currently scheduled for mid-2022. ADVOCACY AND KNOWLEDGE FOR THE BETTER WASTE POLICY OPTIONS

The evidence-based and proportionate management of packaging waste issues for the cosmetic products sector is essential for businesses. Accord is actively engaged in policy advocacy on behalf of industry, including meetings with Assistant Minister for Waste Reduction and Environmental Management, Trevor Evans MP and the federal environment department. This work is guided by the findings of two extensive packaging and plastics surveys of Accord members and will be underpinned by the many positive and innovative examples of how brands are addressing the packaging waste challenge. “All Australian governments are firmly committed to plastic waste

reduction and circular waste solutions, with ministers Ley and Evans leading the way”, Mr Brock said. “It’s therefore important our industry showcases its leadership in this space. “Industry faces National Packaging Targets for 2025 that are necessarily very ambitious, which is why Accord is encouraging a best-efforts approach from our members. Though we also will be asking governments to be realistic in their goal setting. Getting this balance right will be critical. “Some policy approaches that may work well for other industry sectors just won’t fit easily with cosmetics. Additionally, recognition is needed that plastic packaging can have safety and sustainability advantages over more fragile or heavier materials like glass or steel. “What is important is that a collaborative and flexible approach be fostered to solving the waste challenge. Innovation, new technologies and constructive acceptance of alternative solutions offered by industry are all going to be vitally important to this effort,’ Mr Brock said. Knowledge and capacity building has been a major work area for Accord throughout the last year. For member companies, Accord has hosted several packaging waste–themed webinars including with the Australian Packaging Covenant Organisation, circular economy organisations Close the Loop and Terracycle, and sustainability-focused experts Labelmakers and RecycleMate. This information is invaluable to businesses looking to take that next step in packaging sustainability. No company can tackle the huge issue that is packaging waste sustainability alone. It is not too late to join Accord’s activities— please contact jsemple@accord.asn.au if your company has an initiative to showcase, for more information on any of these initiatives or Accord Membership.

ABOUT DR JENNIFER SEMPLE

Dr Jennifer Semple is the Innovation & Education Manager at Accord Australasia Limited

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

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My Journey Bahar Etminan is a renowned business thinker, innovator, highly regarded author, mentor, speaker, podcaster and digital publisher. The Persian beauty shares with Michelle Ruzzene the crucial lessons she has learned during her impressive career journey, from candy bar girl to female entrepreneur shaking up the beauty landscape. WHERE DID YOU GROW UP?

I have lived in so many different countries and cities. I was born in France and moved to Iran when I was three. We landed in Australia when I was seven- we first moved to Perth where I learned English, before moving to Canberra when I was nine. At 16, I moved the US and completed Year 12 in Atlanta, Georgia. I went to university in Queensland and then moved to Sydney. WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? WHAT LESSONS DID YOU LEARN?

I started work as soon as I was legally able to, at 14 and nine months old! I was the candy bar girl on weekends at the local movie theatre. I absolutely loved the hectic pace. I learned about teamwork, navigating work place politics, and most importantly I learned about the psychology of sales. We were paid minimum wage but incentivised for commission on our candy bar sales, so I learned very quickly how to upsell the guy who was on an awkward date to impress his girl. I also became utterly addicted to popcorn from that time on. WHAT’S ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN WHEN YOU BEGAN YOUR CAREER?

Sometimes it’s better to wait for the doors of opportunity to be opened when the time is right rather than always breaking through the glass. IF YOU COULD TURN BACK TIME, WHAT WOULD YOU TELL YOUR 18-YEAR-OLD SELF?

You are going to be tested in life. You will have the highest highs and the lowest lows in your career and it will still all be worth it. Some people are liars and some people are angels who will support you in ways that you can’t imagine. Learn to know the difference quickly. Say thank you often, pay it forward and don’t be embarrassed to ask for help. WHAT DOES A TYPICAL WEEKDAY LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

Like the rest of the world, work from home, lockdowns and home schooling changed the rhythm of everything. I spend far too much 74| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

time behind a screen than attending meetings, pitches, travelling and launches which I love so much. I’m really looking forward to in-person collaborations, recording my podcasts in a studio and working on the magazine with a team that are not behind a screen. WHAT DO YOU DO ON THE WEEKENDS?

I spend one day of the weekend with my daughter and the other day I devote entirely to leisure and fun. I don’t work on weekends. I really try to unplug and reset. TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST LAUNCH, AGELESS BY RESCU?

I had this idea that Australia was ready to really explore the science of beauty and rejuvenation. I could never find a comprehensive platform that covered everything that I was increasingly more interested in. New beauty, cellular wellness, bio hacking and modern rejuvenation innovations in products, surgery and clinical treatments. There were good industry publications but nothing consumer focused. I launched the podcast first and then a quarterly digital magazine that’s entirely devoted to these pillars. The feedback has been wonderful and I’m so happy I took the leap and moved Rescu into a new era. I was bored and coasting and Ageless by Rescu is everything that inspires me. YOU PREVIOUSLY WORKED AT ESTÉE LAUDER

I was brand GM for Bobbi Brown and Origins - they were considered the niche brands of the company. It was a mix of stand alone stores and department store. Pre-digital and before Mecca and Sephora. Can you even imagine?

FEATURE

Sometimes it’s better to wait for the doors of opportunity to be opened when the time is right rather than always breaking through the glass. TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHTS?

My time as GM for Gucci Timepieces was truly incredible. I was 24 and the business was exploding. Tom Ford had just joined as the head designer, we were the hottest brand on the planet and I felt like it was a dream. Many of my closest friends are from that time. I also ran the luxury watch division for six other brands including Fendi, Bell & Ross and Boss. The watch business is very competitive and a male-dominated industry. I had an amazing mentor in my CEO and I had the confidence of youth to try new things. I also absolutely loved my first business as an importer and distributor of international skincare, fragrance and make up brands. I moved to Paris when I was 28 and launched Brandmakers from my apartment. David Jones was the first department store to take my first brand for nine stores. I went on to import 36 brands to over 3000 points of sale across the country in pharmacy, departments store, online and specialty retailers.

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY HEADED?

I love the diversification of the retail industry and the explosion of niche specialist brands. These brands inspire the bigger brands to innovate and they offer so much excitement to the category for the consumer. I think full customisation and prescription beauty is going to be huge as will the impact of VR and tech in beauty. For now, the YSL digital lipstick printer is on my wish list. WHAT ARE THE BEST RESOURCES THAT HAVE HELPED YOU ALONG THE WAY?

Continued self-education, my i-phone and my ability to bounce back from set backs. WHAT MAKES YOU FEEL INSPIRED?

Working with and learning from my podcast guests really lifted my spirits during lockdown. It was a connection and network I felt truly nourished by and it was global. Launching the Ageless by Rescu magazine was also really inspiring. I was supported by friends and experts as it was my first time creating a magazine and I was inspired by the people who really stepped in to teach me, mentor me and encourage me. I feel so excited to create again.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER CHALLENGES?

I nearly went bankrupt during the global financial crisis and had to close Brandmakers. I lost money in foreign exchange, some of my suppliers had gone under in the US amidst the crash and it caused a chain of events that very quickly spiralled. Two of my US brands had gone bankrupt in the US without telling me. I jumped on a plane to Miami to speak to one of the suppliers who was not returning any calls. I arrived at their offices and the door had padlocks and chains on them. The brand was in several hundred stores back here and I was shellshocked to see what had happened. I had to sell everything I owned and double mortgage a property to avoid bankruptcy. I closed the distribution business. It was a devastating low point but made me very resilient and ultimately allowed me to move into the digital media business. Necessity was the mother of my re-invention and resurrection. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A CAREER SIMILAR TO YOURS?

I am a student. I am always studying, taking courses, attending conferences, watching webinars, listening to podcasts and working with mentors. I started university 30 years ago and it was prior to digital anything. If I had not kept learning and growing professionally, I would not have had the career and incredible experiences that I have had.

WHAT IS THE ONE COMMON MYTH ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY THAT YOU WANT TO DEBUNK?

It’s fluffy. NOT at all. The industry is glamorous compared to others yes, and it’s also incredibly powerful in the way it changes people’s lives, brings joy and it’s big business. Take a look at what Kate Morris (founder of Adorebeauty.com.au) and Jo Horgan (founder of Mecca) have achieved. They are formidable founders, CEOs and entrepreneurs. They could run the world. WHAT DOES YOU DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE LOOK LIKE?

I LOVE skincare. Double cleansing, three serums, eye cream, masks, retinol, oils and of course LED light therapy. WHAT’S YOUR HERO BEAUTY PRODUCT?

Tom Ford True Coral lipstick. The latest issue of Ageless Magazine can be accessed at https://magazine.rescu.com.au/issue-2/ Listen to the Ageless by Rescu podcast here: https://omny.fm/shows/ageless-by-rescu RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |75

A psychologist’s tips for coping with coronavirus 76| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

FEATURE

There’s no arguing that our lives have been turned upside down as a result of Covid-19. Just when we thought we were out of the woods, cases have begun rising exponentially. Working in retail during these times can be extremely stressful, not only because of the fear, nervousness and worry of catching Covid, but also due to dealing with difficult customers. Lysn psychologist Nancy Sokarno provides her ways to cope. STAY INFORMED FOR THE PURPOSE OF HEALTH AND SAFETY RATHER THAN TO INCREASE CONCERN

The saturation of updated reports and falsified news is overwhelming for most. Constant updates of current cases, news of panic buying and opinion sharing are causing more panic than necessary. It is important to source your information from credible sources such as government websites and be wary with how much information you digest. If you are finding that staying up to date with the news is causing anxious feelings, try a detox for a while. While it’s important to keep across the need-to-know information, it could be worthwhile asking a friend or family member to keep you updated on this (only when it’s absolutely necessary). PLAN TO PANIC

Rather than letting your mind drift to all the Covid related concerns, schedule an allocated amount of time (aka worry time) to do it. Use that time to focus on the things that are making you feel anxious, read the news or process any new information. Some people like to write down any worries that pop into their head throughout the day and then when it’s worry time, refer to their list. The act of writing it down can help to take your mind off it, so you don’t need to ‘remember’ what it was that you were worried about. It is advisable to spend around 15 mins in each day and set an alarm, so you don’t go overtime. Once the time is over, try to subdue those feelings and focus on other things. If you can, schedule in something fun at the end of it, perhaps it’s an episode of your favourite TV show or a snack break.

Lysn psychologist Nancy Sokarno.

requirements we need to practice daily. There are some other things you can do as well, such as taking vitamins and exercising. It could be beneficial to talk to an expert about other things you might be able to do to keep on top of any healthy practice. STAY CONNECTED WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY, CHECK IN REGULARLY

While working on the shop floor might be the last thing you want to do right now (and that’s ok) it is important that you stay connected with loved ones. As humans we thrive on social connections so don’t shut yourself off from the world completely once you get home. Stay connected virtually if need be and schedule in time to talk to family and friends. However, do be mindful that we are sponges to our environment and collective worry can sometimes be passed on between one another. If there are certain people who make you feel particularly nervous, worried, anxious or stressed because they catastrophise what is happening, try to limit your interactions with them.

Wherever possible, use exercise as a way to exert anxious energy and boost good neurotransmitters such as serotonin.

STAY ACTIVE

Wherever possible, use exercise as a way to exert anxious energy and boost good neurotransmitters such as serotonin. We are constantly told about the benefits of exercise and that’s because it works! Besides the many physical benefits of exercise (ranging from increased cardiovascular fitness, reduction of excess body fat, boosting muscle power and endurance), it also offers a host of mental health benefits too, ranging from stress relief, improvement in mood and improved sleep. FOLLOW HEALTH GUIDELINES

As cases rise, it is important for your own health and safety to continue following health guidelines. From wearing a mask, using hand sanitiser, practicing social distancing, through to ensuring customers are checking in using the QR codes – these are the basic

REACH OUT TO MENTAL HEALTH SUPPORT IF YOU FEEL LIKE YOU ARE STRUGGLING

Take the time to revaluate what is important to you at this time. Take into account things you can control like self-care, exercise, mindfulness, gratitude, creativity etc. Be kind to yourself, this situation can be difficult for all of us, so we are all trying to figure it out together. As is with all matters related to mental health, it is important to seek help from a professional who will be able to give you the guidance and support you need.

ABOUT LYSN

Lysn connects people with a psychologist for an individualised and tailored personal support plan which can all be done from the comfort of their own home. Finding a psychologist that suits an individual’s needs is an important part of the therapeutic process and Lysn help people find their best-fit online psychologist through a simple, sophisticated matching questionnaire.

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INTERVIEW

Botanical Beauty

Trudi Jaye,

RETREATMENT BOTANICS MANAGING DIRECTOR AND CO-FOUNDER Trudi Jaye, Retreatment Botanics Managing Director and CoFounder, on creating an active and potent skincare range using Australian native botanics, saving the orangutang and what it’s like working with Olivia Newton-John. By Michelle Ruzzene. TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER TO DATE?

After experiencing a health challenge when I was young, I turned to natural therapies and eating clean, nutritious foods. Many doctors told me it wouldn’t be possible without surgery, but I succeeded and healed myself naturally. This was really eye opening for me and ignited my interest in a career in wellness. I developed a deep yearning for knowledge, studying Buddhism, Indian philosophy, reflexology and nutrition. After seeing my skin improve drastically after changing my diet, this sparked my interest in ‘beauty from the inside out’ and led me to study skincare in New York. I worked in the skincare and wellness industry in NY which was great as I became familiar with so many different types of skin concerns. I really got to know what people were struggling with and where they felt there were gaps in their skincare. While I was in the States I also studied Marketing, Design and Entrepreneurship. I learned that following your passion is so important in life, it’s amazing to see where the journey will take you and what opportunities open up. It’s interesting to connect the dots - now I’ve incorporated all my skills to build our very special brand. 78| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

HOW DID YOU BECOME INVOLVED WITH OLIVIA NEWTON JOHN?

After 11 years in New York, I returned to the Byron Bay hinterland in Australia and a friend introduced me to the team at Gaia, where I met Olivia. That’s where the journey began. I’ve been innovating alongside Olivia for many years now to create our beautiful skincare range. WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER THE MOST IMPORTANT CHARACTERISTICS OF A BRAND?

Trust - community - knowing your customer and listening to their deepest needs - building a strong, passionate and committed team - staying true to your values - supporting your partnerships consistently delivering high quality and results. WHAT ARE YOUR BRAND VALUES? HOW DO THEY ALIGN WITH ONJ?

Our brand values include selecting only the most clean, pure ingredients that are also highly efficacious. We are certified cruelty free, vegan and Australian made. I believe we are the first

professional quality, premium skincare brand in the world to ever be free from palm oil derivatives. It’s quite an achievement and we are proud to be certified 100% palm oil free by the Orangutan Alliance to help protect critically endangered animals and ancient rainforests. Olivia is very passionate about the brand, she’s a dedicated champion of healthy living, a wellness advocate, an environmentalist and a huge animal lover. She also loves effective skincare, so the brand is very much in alignment with her values. Retreatment Botanics also supports the Olivia Newton-John Cancer Wellness and Research Centre.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRAND MAKERS?

When creating a new brand, you have the opportunity to be a changemaker and make a difference in people’s lives, to leave the Earth a better place. This may not be an easy task but the key is persistence and not accepting no for an answer - there is always a way. When you’re dedicated to serving the greater good, it’s amazing how everything aligns and the right support turns up when you least expect it. WHERE DO YOU SEE THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY HEADED?

During Covid, many people have re-evaluated what is truly important in their life, what brings them meaning and joy. Many are looking to realign their lives and approach things differently moving forward. For me personally, it has been so rewarding to grow an exceptional brand that supports people on their path to self betterment and leading healthier lives. At Retreatment Botanics, our brand is all about bringing the rituals of self-care into our everyday lives. We use a subtle blend of essential oils to take you on a sensory journey. Beauty is wellness, on all levels, mind, body and soul. Coming back to yourself and taking that time to nurture your being is an important way to lead a more calm and stress-free life (naturally giving a more youthful and radiant complexion). Another thing that has been important during Covid is an increasing demand and preference for Australian made products. People are wanting to support homegrown brands. All our skincare is Australian made and we use unique technology to extract phyto-actives from native Australian botanicals. The vitamin and antioxidant concentrations in Aussie plants are some of the highest in the world, delivering incredible results to the skin, so it only makes sense to harness this advanced plant intelligence in our products. WHAT’S BEEN THE MOST VALUABLE LEARNING IN YOUR CAREER?

Stay true to your passion and what you love. When you’re passionate about something, you’ll have that extra determination and resilience to get you through the hard times. There can be many roadblocks and hurdles along the way. The path can be messy behind the scenes. When you keep going and stay true to your dreams you can achieve something incredible. WHAT’S YOUR GREATEST SUCCESS?

Creating a stunning skincare range that is high performance and also palm oil free. I know our skincare has helped so many women achieve greater confidence in their own skin, and we’re building a beautiful community as more people discover the range. It’s also inspiring to know the products help to protect endangered species. I wake up every morning feeling grateful to be doing something I love.

The synergy of results-driven, clean ingredients combined with a commitment to values and ethics. Natural skincare science is progressing at a rapid rate. Consumers are wanting healthy products, they are becoming more savvy about what is going on their skin and bodies. They also want to know their products aren’t harming the planet, as the environment is at a critical turning point. Our choices now deeply impact future generations. Consumers however don’t want to compromise on results. This is pushing the market to innovate, raise expectations and deliver exceptional high-efficacy products that are good for you and the planet. I believe the demand will only get stronger. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS AND DISADVANTAGES OF HAVING A CELEBRITY BACKED BRAND?

In our case, Olivia is a co-founder and personally adores our skincare - she uses it every day on her own skin. Olivia truly loves the brand and is genuinely involved. As an Australian icon dedicated to making the world a better place, customers trust her word. Integrity is everything and that’s why it was so important to ensure our formulas only use the highest quality, natural and organic ingredients that are also really effective. It was also important to uphold our values and certifications of cruelty free, Australian made and 100% palm oil free. So for us, it is a positive, there have only been benefits. I can imagine there are celebrity backed brands out there where it is just an endorsement and the passion isn’t there. I think more and more people can see through this and want the real thing. They are looking for transparency, integrity and trust. ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO ADD?

Aussie made

HOW HAS COVID IMPACTED YOUR THINKING ABOUT RETREATMENT BOTANICS?

We are in the midst of an important time of change. Our values are evolving, science is evolving, and natural skincare is also evolving. It’s been rewarding to prove it is possible to create a sophisticated natural skincare product that is not only luxurious and results-driven, but is also founded in meaningful values that make a difference. I’m excited for our brand’s next stage of development! www.retreatmentbotanics.com

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |79

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Retail Beauty is an essential tool for brands and retailers to educate, inspire and support their sales force – and ultimately sell more products. Retail Beauty is the go-to for the wider beauty industry to stay on top of global and local trends, news and launches. We communicate directly and daily to key industry professionals and decision makers.

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Reach our quality audience of more than 50,000 through bespoke advertising and content solutions. Contact Cathryn Tout on +61 416 350 742 or ctout@intermedia.com.au

Serums

FEATURE

TRUTH

A DEEP DIVE INTO SKINCARE POWERHOUSES by Nikita Papas

HEALTH | THE FUTURE OF SKINCARE

The phenomenal rise of indie and influencer endorsed skincare brands has seen consumers become increasingly savvy about high performance, ingredientdriven skincare. Undoubtedly, the focus on self-care, wellness, and safety has been compounded by the pandemic. Health is now the future of skincare. The social media highway has created awareness about the ‘kindness’ we owe to ourselves and each other. At-home, self-care rituals have provided much needed levity. Content showcasing skincare has been fuelled by the expertise of healthcare professionals such as aesthetic doctors, dermatologists, and nutritionists. Equipped with the ‘know-how’ to navigate the saturated skincare arena, consumers are seeking ‘backed by science’ products to create healthy, radiant-looking skin. Enter serums. Emma Lewisham Skin Reset Serum emmalewisham.com

SERUMS DEFINED

Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum mecca.com.au

“A serum is comprised of a thin-viscosity, lightweight topical solution, known as a vehicle, housing active ingredients that can penetrate the outer layers of the skin to deliver targeted benefits. They can be either (predominantly) water or oil based. Typically, serums are deployed to deliver potent, bioactive ingredients to improve the function of the skin. Due to their higher concentration of ingredients, serums tend to provide visible results over a shorter period”, explains dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald from Complete Skin Specialists (VIC). Designed to target specific or multiple skincare concerns, serums can be formulated to minimise the visible signs of ageing, hydrate, brighten, exfoliate, diminish the look of dark spots, reduce the occurrence of breakouts, and strengthen the skin barrier.

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FEATURE THE LAYERING PROTOCOL

We have been conditioned to apply skincare products thinnest to thickest, and while serums tend to showcase lightweight, fast absorbing textures, Dr McDonald recommends a targetbased application protocol. “Skincare should be applied according to the layer of skin it is targeting. Products formulated with active ingredients such as Retinol, Salicylic Acid, and Vitamin C should be applied first, to ensure they penetrate the outer layer of the skin and reach the dermis. Moisturisers exhibit a thicker consistency – primarily designed to prevent water loss and protect the skin barrier function, they should be applied after actives.” The K-Beauty phenomenon introduced the western world to a 10-step routine comprised of a universe of meticulously layered products. Possibly more marketing gimmick than reality, the success of the multi-step routine can be attributed to the legacy of Korean skincare (that dates to 700 BCE) – a legacy that has enabled state-of-the-art skincare technologies (including innovative ways of processing and fermenting plant extracts), to flourish and influence the industry on a global scale. The most beneficial outcome is a ‘skin-first’ philosophy that has encouraged consumers to invest first and foremost, into creating a healthy canvas. Rachel McAdam, Scientific Communications Manager, L’Oréal Active Cosmetics Division, champions a ‘less is more’ approach to skincare, as too many products can lead to overstimulated, sensitised skin. Can we integrate more than one serum into our routine? “Yes, apply the thinnest serum first, or, if your serums showcase similar consistencies, commence with the one that addresses your primary

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic skinceuticals.com.au

skin concern. Ideally, your AM and PM skincare routine should accommodate a maximum of two serums - just a few drops should suffice and allow your priority serum to absorb before applying the second”, recommends McAdam. ANTIOXIDANT POWERHOUSES

The desire to create healthy, luminous skin has seen Vitamin C (a powerful antioxidant) emerge as one of the most researched skincare ingredients amongst consumers. Recommended by tastemaker beauty editors and skincare professionals alike, SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic is renowned as the ‘gold standard’ Vitamin C serum. Steadfast, elevated mentions and referrals about this protective, anti-ageing icon, have heightened awareness about the power of antioxidants. Formulated under the Duke Antioxidant patent (that describes the parameters required for the effective delivery of Vitamin C to the skin), C E Ferulic’s specific combination of antioxidants – Vitamins C and E, and Ferulic Acid – perform synergistically to provide optimum skin health. “Environmental damage is predominantly caused by UV radiation but is also

Assisting consumers with serum purchases requires a sound understanding about the product’s ingredients, potentially the brand’s formulation charter, and an assessment of the customer’s skin type and specific concerns. 82| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

exacerbated by ozone pollution and infrared radiation”, says Dr McDonald. “These factors cause oxidative damage in the skin cells which results in the formation of harmful free radicals and DNA mutations, as well as increased breakdown of skin proteins such as collagen. Potent antioxidants such as Vitamin C work to prevent oxidative damage, and therefore reduce signs of premature ageing (including fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation), to promote a smoother, more even and radiant looking complexion.” The retail landscape offers consumers a spectrum of Vitamin C-enriched serums – seek out one that is formulated with ascorbic acid, (also known as L-ascorbic acid) at a concentration between 10-20%, apply in the AM (to inhibit UV light-induced free radical formation), and house it away from sunlight to maintain its integrity. Notable options include iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+ (formulated with a bioidentical Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor to stimulate the synthesis of collagen), Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum (offering gentle, enzymatic exfoliating benefits), and La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum (formulated with soothing Neurosensine to care for sensitive skin). For those seeking a 100% natural, scientifically backed, planet conscious option, Emma Lewisham Skin Reset Serum is infused with seven sources of radiance-boosting Vitamin C, including Prickly Pear and Sea Buckthorn. This award-winning, refillable, anti-ageing serum also contains patented Plant Stem Cell Extracts, Niacinamide, and Hyaluronic Acid, to minimise hyperpigmentation and the look of dark spots, prevent oxidation, and hydrate skin. Asked about the product’s cult status, Founder Emma Lewisham said, “Independently verified to perform in vivo and in vitro testing, Skin Reset Serum represents five years of scientific research – it works at a cellular level to address irregularities, and visibly brighten the skin’s tone. Like all our products, it is formulated with green-tech actives that work in synergy to create optimum skin health, and showcases a luxurious, non-greasy, fast-absorbing texture.” PRESCRIBE, DON’T SELL

“Assisting consumers with serum purchases requires a sound understanding about the product’s ingredients, potentially the brand’s formulation charter, and an assessment of the customer’s skin type and specific concerns”, says McAdam. “The ideal serum can then be recommended to provide optimum efficacy and tolerance.” Oily, acne-prone skin can benefit from formulations containing Salicylic Acid (an effective BHA that unclogs congested pores), and Niacinamide (aka Vitamin B3, to soothe and strengthen skin). Dry, ageing skin can benefit from antioxidant-rich Vitamins C and E, Ferulic Acid and Resveratrol, and Hyaluronic Acid (to visibly hydrate and plump skin). To address dull, lack-lustre skin, and hyperpigmentation, McAdam recommends skin brightening Vitamin C, Glycolic Acid (an AHA that removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin), and Retinol (to propel cell turnover and stimulate collagen production). Sensitive, rosacea-prone skin can benefit from Vitamin B5 (aka Panthenol, to hydrate and soothe), Ceramides (to strengthen the skin barrier), Niacinamide (to reduce redness), and Neurosensine (to reduce skin discomfort). Advise customers to adhere to the recommended serving size – depending on the consistency, a pea-sized amount or 3-4 drops should suffice. A serum overkill is ineffective, as it can compromise the skin and leads to a waste of valuable product.

Health is the future of skincare. Serums are designed to deliver potent, bioactive ingredients to deeper layers of the skin, but not all are created equal. Research and enquire. There’s a difference between necessity and desire – a multi-step skincare routine needs to consider ingredient compatibility and tolerance. A performancedriven skincare arsenal is incomplete without one to two powerhouse serums. Serums should be prescribed to compliment your skin type and target your key concerns. Synergistic antioxidant formulations reign supreme. Less is more – veil, don’t smother. Be wary of bottled ‘miracles’ - healthy, radiant looking skin is best achieved and maintained by adopting a holistic approach – one that embraces efficacious skincare products, and a healthy diet and lifestyle.

FEATURE

TRUTH BE TOLD

iS Clinical Super Serum Advance+ isclinical.com.au La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum laroche-posay.com.au

ABOUT NIKITA PAPAS

Nikita Papas is an established PR and Communications specialist who has garnered 15+ years within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. Previously engaged with L’Oréal, the world’s largest beauty company, his impressive brand portfolio included CeraVe, La RochePosay, Kérastase, and SkinCeuticals. An experienced Beauty/Fashion/Lifestyle Editor and Creative Director, Nikita understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive customer journey. His current freelance PR and Communications role sees him connect with the most enviable fashion and beauty brands, media tastemakers, influencers, and creative agencies.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |83

The Gift of

Kings

Belgium-born, Renaud Salmon started his career as an intern at Belgian luxury goods house Delvaux, and has since worked his way through many of the world’s leading luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Dolce&Gabbana, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs. With a business background, but trained in fragrances and photography, he has worked and lived in Brussels, Geneva, Milano, London, Paris, New York and now Muscat, the capital of Oman. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the international man of fragrance and Amouage Creative Director to find out more. HOW/WHEN WAS AMOUAGE FOUNDED?

Amouage was founded in 1983, over a decade after the start of Oman’s Renaissance and at a time when the country was fast becoming a land of peace, friendship and hospitality. As such, the House’s founder had gone to the late His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said with a proposition to create a brand that would introduce Oman’s fragrance heritage to the world and speak of its valuable natural treasures. The House quickly became His Majesty’s gift to his guests, leading it to be known as ‘The Gift of Kings’. HOW DID YOU COME TO WORK FOR AMOUAGE?

I was living in New York and got a call from Marco Parsiegla, Amouage CEO, who is a senior beauty executive who I had previously worked with. Amouage was right on the cusp of a major transition period with the changeover of leadership and he offered me the chance to take on this exciting new role. Being at the creative helm of one of the world’s most respected Fragrance Houses; it was impossible to refuse. YOU MOVED TO MUSCAT, OMAN FOR YOUR JOB – WHAT IS IT LIKE?

When I first visited Oman, I was immediately blown away by the richness of the country and the sheer diversity of its natural landscapes. From my first visit in 2018 it didn’t take me long to fall in love. Now I live and work here and it has been a pleasure to get to know the country and its people. My favourite place has to be the mountains, where I go most weekends to explore, hike, and just get in touch with nature. But there are so many other places worthy of a visit, from sand dunes to picture-book beaches to verdant mountains and of course, the home of Amouage, our Manufacture and Visitors Centre. 84| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

WHERE DID YOUR PASSION FOR FRAGRANCE BEGIN?

Fragrance has been a passion of mine since a young age, when I started building my first perfume collection. Although I studied engineering, I was much more drawn to the creative world – to fashion, art and photography. Fragrance was just a case of connecting the dots and it was something I found I had a natural affinity with. WHAT MAKES AN EXCEPTIONAL PERFUME?

For me, perfume is all about pleasure. Something that should be enjoyed as much as possible. The quality of ingredients is important, but perfume creation is about so much more than that. It’s about the whole story. A great perfume should be able to evoke emotions and connect with people’s sense of personal identity. WHY IS TIME SO IMPORTANT FOR AMOUAGE FRAGRANCES?

Not many fragrance houses actually use time to age their fragrances, in fact, as industry practices have standardised, this process has been dramatically reduced to just a few days of maturation and maceration at best. The reason for this has been the increasing use of synthetic ingredients which do not need to be aged to reach their potential. At Amouage, using the highest quality natural ingredients is part of our DNA and thus ageing is fundamental in our fragrance creation process. For example, our Exceptional Extraits actually pushed the boundaries of aging as well as concentration, maturing for five to ten weeks and then macerating for three and sixteen weeks. Thus, we consider ‘time’ as a key ingredient, making them richer, more potent and gifted with extended longevity. WHAT UNIQUE INGREDIENTS ARE FOUND IN AMOUAGE?

Our signature ingredients are three of Oman’s greatest natural treasures, and collectively we call them ‘Amouade’: Rock Rose harvested at the top of the green mountains, Ambergris that lands at random on Oman’s pristine coast, and the finest quality of

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CAREER JOURNEY AND HIGHLIGHTS?

During my studies (which happened to be engineering), I approached students at fashion schools, offering to photograph their collections. The portfolio I built up helped me to get my first job was at Delvaux, Belgium’s distinguished fine luxury goods manufacturer. During this time, I met some people from Louis Vuitton, who hired me to be part of the flagship store’s management team. My second big break was spending more than a decade working with luxury fashion brands and creating fragrances for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs. In April 2019 I took a massive leap to Amouage, where I am proud to have created Interlude Black Iris, the Renaissance Collection, Material & Boundless and the Exceptional Extraits. WHAT IS THE AMOUAGE CREATIVE COLLECTIVE?

While Amouage will always be Oman’s ambassador to the world with an uncompromising commitment to craftsmanship and the highest quality standards, as the world changes, we have to be proactive in adapting the way that we connect with our clientele. The ‘Creative Collective’ was developed with this in mind. Made up of a diverse team of exceptional artists, from photographers, videographers, designers, to editors - a mix of established names and emerging figures - it is a groundbreaking approach to fragrance creation, transcending the constraints of a single creative director. The team is unifying the strategic and creative ambitions of the company with complete creative freedom on all interactions a consumer has with the house. It’s all about creative transparency, about an interactive relationship with our customers, and one that sees them take an active role. The idea is to re-imagine the way fragrances are crafted, communicated, purchased and, ultimately, enjoyed. WHY IS THE CONCENTRATION OF INGREDIENTS IMPORTANT?

Generally speaking, the higher the concentration, the higher the longevity on the skin. Offering generous creations that are on the higher end of the concentration spectrum is what makes our fragrances so special and what has helped us to carve out one of the most flattering reputations amongst the circle of leading high-end perfume houses around the world. For example, our Eaux de Parfum contain a generous 20% to 30% pure oils, which may elsewhere be considered Extraits. Meanwhile, our actual Extraits, are concentrated at a generous 43% to 56%, more than doubling the industry standard, making them much richer and more potent.

mind and their own creative interpretation of the brief and that makes each process extremely creative and sometimes, gives unanticipated results. Then comes the manufacturing, a meticulous nine step process which includes planting and harvesting, extracting, blending, maturing, diluting, maceration, chill filtering and then finally bottling. The maturation part is what makes our process unique, since we are liberal with the time we allow it to develop to ensure we are producing the absolute best.

INTERVIEW

Frankincense from Oman’s southern plateau. These make up our unique blend, but we also use an assortment of the rarest and most precious ingredients from around the world.

WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE FOR SOMEONE WANT TO GET INTO THE FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY?

I don’t think there is any guaranteed formula. Like any creative industry, you have to have passion. This will fuel your determination to keep trying even if you experience failure. Don’t stick to the status quo and stay open to what you can learn from others and from each part of your journey. WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ‘FAILURE’, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT?

In the fragrance industry, you fail more than you succeed! But I believe there is more to be learnt from failures than successes and most often, the higher the risk, the higher the reward. No one has the recipe to make success, a lot of it is about trial and error. A good example of this is the Exceptional Extraits. We played around with 12 perfumes, seeing how they worked with an extreme concentration of ingredients, and ultimately, only four were successful. I think the biggest failure is being afraid to take risks at all. If you water down your vision by trying to please everyone, you will end up with something that is just average, and that in itself is a failure. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A CAREER SIMILAR TO YOURS?

It is all about being committed to pursuing your passion. Today more than ever the beauty industry is open for anyone who wants to succeed, as long as you put the effort and hard work into it. Be patient and trust that whatever you put out there will have its rewards. WHAT IS THE ONE COMMON MYTH ABOUT LUXURY FRAGRANCE THAT YOU WANT TO DEBUNK?

There are a few misconceptions about luxury fragrances. One example is that fragrance creation is simply the creative director interacting with a perfumer. But there are many other people involved and many hidden tasks that go on behind the scenes that are critical to the process, such as evaluators, lab technicians, R&D scientists and natural ingredients sourcing experts.

HOW IS AN AMOUAGE FRAGRANCE PRODUCED?

WHAT DOES YOUR DAILY ‘FRAGRANCE ROUTINE’ LOOK LIKE?

It starts with an idea, which, for me, can come from a lot of different places: a movie, a picture, a place or a song, that I then develop a narrative around. Once I have a vision in mind, I choose a perfumer, and together we bring the story to life, translating it into not just the fragrance but the visuals, the packaging, and in some cases, coordinating paintings and music. Each perfumer will have different images in

As a Creative Director I don’t wear fragrances during the week since a big part of my daily work is to evaluate fragrances. I evaluate on scent strips and on skin as well so I need a blank canvas for that. During the weekends I tend to wear the fragrances that I am currently developing. This gives me the chance to see how they change when I’m doing different activities. www.amouage.com RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |85

The most popular fragrances according to TikTok OnBuy Men’s Aftershave and OnBuy Women’s Perfume were keen to discover the most popular fragrances according to TikTok. To do this, they analysed the total number of views attributed to each fragrance’s hashtag on the social media platform. Their surprising findings have now been revealed...

86| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

Ranking in first place for men’s aftershaves, with a staggering 114,000,000 views on TikTok, is Sauvage by Dior. This woody, aromatic, fragrance was followed by Eros by Versace with almost 52,000,000 views Bleu de Chanel by Chanel, which rounds out third place with 45,400,000 views.

RANK

MEN’S PERFUME

VIEWS ON TIKTOK

Sauvage by Dior

114,000,000

Eros by Versace

51,900,000

Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

Invictus Victory by Paco Rabanne

Allure Homme Sport by Chanel

735,600

Bad Boy by Carolina Herrera

247,700

Boss Bottled Night by Hugo Boss

217,300

1 Million by Paco Rabanne

116,800

Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

24,500

#10

Diamonds for men by Armani

10,700

FEATURE

THE MOST POPULAR MALE FRAGRANCES ACCORDING TO TIKTOK USERS

45,400,000 2,300,000

THE MOST POPULAR FEMALE PERFUMES ACCORDING TO TIKTOK USERS

Taking the lead, the most popular female fragrance according to TikTok user’s with 26,400,000 views is another Dior classic - Miss Dior. With 6,300,000 views on TikTok, Lady Million by Paco Rabanne is a clear favourite following in second. In third place is the viral Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, with a total of 2,900,000 views.

RANK

VIEWS ON TIKTOK

WOMEN’S PERFUME

Miss Dior by Dior

26,400,000

Lady Million by Paco Rabanne

6,300,000

Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent

2,900,000

Olympea by Paco Rabanne

2,100,000

I want Choo by Jimmy Choo

1,200,000

Alien by Mugler

Good Girl by Carolina Herrera

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

291,300

Si by Armani

278,900

#10

Eternity for Women by Calvin Klein

1,100,000 790,300

51,300

All data commissioned by OnBuy Men’s Aftershave and OnBuy Women’s Perfume. RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |87

The

Perfumers PATH Clayton Ilolahia sits down for a one-ofa-kind Interview with scent master and Senior Perfumer at the house of CPL Aromas, Vincent Ricord.

Vincent Ricord. 88| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

I had dyslexia. School wasn’t difficult but I had to find my own keys, my own way to learn.

FRAGRANCE

Perfumers have become the rock stars of the fragrance industry. After stepping out of the shadows to talk candidly about their work in Michael Edwards’ book Perfume Legends (1996) and receiving top billing on the bottles of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle’s fragrances, the public are intrigued by these composers of scent, a role which blends the romance of science with pure artistry. Still, relatively little is known about the reality of their work, and the journey they take to become a perfumer. The small alpine village of Grasse, overlooking the French Riviera, is described as the cradle of French perfumery. In the Middle Ages the town became famous for producing perfumed leather gloves. Grasse’s microclimate is the perfect environment for growing botanical ingredients used in perfumery. Over time the leather tanneries closed but Grasse’s perfume industry boomed. Today it’s not uncommon for every Grassois to say they have at least one perfumer in the family. This was the case for Grassios perfumer Vincent Ricord, who recalls the moment he became intrigued by his extended family’s work in the industry. “At family gatherings I was listening to them chatting. It was like a James Bond discussion. ‘I am coming from Japan, and I have smelled such and such quality of this ingredient.’ Another was coming from Bulgaria; ‘Yeah you know, the price of rose has increased so much!’ They were dressed in nice suits. It was the 1980s and 90s, a different period to now. I was so curious about this job. They were travelling. They were working with flowers. It seemed glamourous.” Ricord is now based in Paris and works for CPL Aromas, the world’s largest fragrance-only fragrance producer. His role as Senior Perfumer follows over a decade of work in the industry. One of his latest creations is called Everlasting Light, which showcases Ricord’s creativity as well as CPL Aroma’s exclusive raw materials and standards for responsible sourcing. As a child, Ricord developed a curiosity for music, a passion he still follows today, and drawing. His father was a well-known mechanic in Grasse who restored vintage luxury cars. His first olfactory memory is the smell of benzene in his father’s garage. “I am not a perfumer who grew up in a field of jasmine.” At age 13, he could pursue a career art or music, but it was a school internship with a fragrance company that catalysed his interest in perfumery. It was a window into a new world, one that until now had been abstract. “I was not keen to stay at school. It didn’t interest me. I had dyslexia. School

wasn’t difficult but I had to find my own keys, my own way to learn. I arrived in this laboratory and there were all these bottles with long difficult names. It’s a nightmare for a normal person because when you start to learn perfumery, the method is hard at the beginning. But I said, OK, a lot of different products, it’s a mess with no organisation. That’s perfect for me! I felt so comfortable there because it felt like my normal life. I spent a week in this laboratory, and I didn’t want to leave.” Unlike musical and artistic hobbies that can be practiced at home, Ricord didn’t have a laboratory to practice perfumery, so he sought out further internships. A family friend, perfumer Jean-François Latty (creator of Givenchy III, Clarins Eau Dynamisante and Yves Saint Laurent Jazz) advised the teenager to practice cooking to sharpen his senses, which he did. Ricord approached another company director for an internship. “He asked me, ‘Why are you here?’ I said I wanted to become a perfumer to which he replied, ‘Yes, like everyone else.’ Then I said the only thing I want to know is whether behind-the-scenes is what I am expecting, because I don’t know. Can you help me? He said, ‘Okay that is different.’ I worked for months, and I was happy. Later the owner asked when my internship was finishing. It was two weeks ago. He said, ‘Okay we have to do something about that.’ I spent 15 years in that company.” Ricord worked in several departments from Marketing to Gas Chromatography/ Mass Spectrometry analysis, but it was the perfumer’s work that felt like a natural fit. Ricord explains that composing a perfume is like writing a book. First you need a vocabulary and to understand grammar, which is learned over years of training and mentoring in a fragrance company. Then you must listen to the client, and understand their world and the story they want to create in a fragrance. Ricord says that the key to a good fragrance is to have a memorable riff, a catchy melody like in music. “For me if it doesn’t sing, it means it’s too complicated. You don’t have a clear message.” Today, Ricord develops innovative fragrances for a diverse range of clients alongside some of the industry’s biggest talents, perfumers Alexandra Kosinski, Dominique Preyssas, and Christian Provenzano to name a few. Now celebrating 50 years as a company, CPL Aromas remains dedicated to nurturing perfumery’s talent in the present and for the future. www.cplaromas.com RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |89

Is your skin-prep technique up to

Scratch?

By Michael Brown

How much is too much skin prep before applying makeup? Michael Brown shares his top tips and tricks for achieving a flawless yet natural-looking base, every time.

90| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

INFLUENCER

It doesn’t matter if you have the most expensive or the ‘best product’ out there, if it’s not right for your skin’s needs, then it will be a waste of time and money. Everyone’s needs are different and there are so many skin types and concerns that consumers have, so it’s only natural some may need more prep than others. This is where the power of consultation comes in to play and the ever-so important conversations around product likes/dislikes, skin habits and behaviors to determine what skin prep products would be best for your client to create a flawless base when applying makeup. WHY SKIN PREP?

Makeup is only as good as the skin underneath. Now if you haven’t heard that before, I’d be shocked, but I have been around the industry for 20 years, so it’s been drilled into me. Boy, is it true! In my work as a celebrity makeup artist, there is a not a skin concern, condition, type, tone or age group I haven’t worked with. I could possibly say the same with products and brands. Okay, well maybe only 70 per cent in that category, but basically I have seen it all. My 10 years working in the retail cosmetics industry really helped me understand the most commonly asked questions from consumers about how makeup wouldn’t sit right, or it creased, or was too noticeable and it always came down to their skin prep before makeup application. Before a big glam look, especially if a client is attending an event and needs makeup for long wear, skin prep is vital for products and textures to connect with the skin to last the distance. Key word, connect. I spend a good 15-20 minutes of skin prep before these big glam moments. That could include a sheet mask, exfoliating or a hydrating essence, different serums, moisturisers or oils. I then use any makeup primers necessary to get the skin to that perfect level, where products can bond into the skin and not look visible sitting on top. HOW TO SKIN PREP?

Over the years I have perfected skim prep before applying makeup down to a tea, but it does alter slightly depending on the person’s skin type and skin texture… So many consumers often blame foundation or the makeup products they are using for not sitting correctly or

wearing away too soon. But 99 per cent of the time, it is incorrect or lack of skin prep prior to makeup application that is the issue. It doesn’t matter if you have the most expensive or the ‘best product’ out there, if it’s not right for your skin’s needs, then it will be a waste of time and money. A lot of people also buy skin products that are actually correct for their skin type and needs, but apply too much or too many different products, which can unbalance your base. When it comes to moisturiser, it may be best to apply at night and ditch it for the day – you don’t want anything too creamy or heavy texture in texture. A light, hydrating formula that gives skin instant plump and bounce is much better for use under makeup. The three biggest concerns that appear after makeup application are pores, shine and wrinkles. If these relate to you or your clients, then they need to be discussed and addressed in ‘skin prep’ to reduce the appearance and create a smoother base for lasting results. The best thing to always remember is that the product steps you apply before makeup. All make a difference to the end result. For example, a foaming cleanser may be a great way to start a skin routine for someone who wants to minimise pores and shine, but not so good for someone that has wrinkles, as it could be too drying. If the skin has large pores, and therefore shine is a big issue, maybe try using a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) for really oily skin, or an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) for combination skin, as a toner before your serum/moisturiser to really smooth the surface of your skin. Someone with dry, sensitive or wrinkled skin would prefer a moisturising or hydrating essence, as this will soften the surface of the skin to allow your next products, including a serum and/or moisturiser, to absorb better. Hyaluronic acid has been a beauty buzz word for a while now and it gives lots of important hydration to the skin. But if oil and shine are concerns when wearing makeup, then try a niacinamide product instead, as it can reduce shine, smooth skin and protect the skin’s barrier function.

As a rule, I never apply really rich, heavy, oil-based creams pre makeup application, as it can leave to much residue on the surface and appear overly shiny. It also creates a barrier between the skin and the foundation, meaning it won’t bond seamlessly and can result in the product moving around or slipping. However, if very sensitive skin is visible with redness and dry patches like eczema, no actives are to be used (I generally only recommend these at night anyway). Only certain barrier creams can work to literally create a barrier between the skin and the foundation, so they makeup will not sit into the dry areas on the face caused by sensitivity. Lastly, for wrinkles, shine or pores, using the correct primer after a moisturiser and before foundation is crucial. The primer will smooth, mattify or blur out these issues. If super oily, opt for a pore-refining, shine controlling primer and for anyone else with small pores and wrinkles, a blur primer is where it’s at. It can literally work its magic so the foundation appears like a second skin. Next time you are with a client and they are wearing or are purchasing makeup, have a little conversation about skin prep, as a slight switch up or add-in of a product can really make makeup last the distance.

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |91

Have you met... ASHLEY GRAHAM

Supermodel Ashley Graham and her husband, who share a one-yearold son, welcomed twin baby boys in January. But the busy motherof-three always makes time to look after her gorgeous, glowing skin. Retail Beauty catches up with the former Sports Illustrated swimsuit cover model and St Tropez brand ambassador to talk all things tanning.

WHAT DOES ‘BEAUTY’ MEAN TO YOU?

Beauty is inclusive, diverse and begins from within. It’s personal and not defined by your appearance. HOW DID YOUR FIRST TEDX TALK COME ABOUT AND HOW DID YOU FEEL AFTER DOING IT?

I had started building the #beautybeyondsize community on social media. When TEDx reached out to me in 2015, I thought it was the perfect time to share my story more in depth - it was my first time doing a public speech! For years, the industry labelled me as ‘plus size’, and ultimately my size made me feel like an outsider. Afterwards, I felt more empowered to be a role model and work to redefining the global image of beauty. WHAT LESSONS ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD TO TEACHING YOUR SONS?

I look forward to teaching Isaac and the twins to love with an open heart and to treat others with respect and kindness. 92| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

WHEN IN YOUR LIFE HAVE YOU FELT AT YOUR MOST BEAUTIFUL?

Recently I’ve felt my most beautiful throughout my pregnancy journey. At first it wasn’t easy embracing the fact that my body was changing, but I soon realised my strength as a woman, and the blessing I was given to be able to carry life and grow my family with my husband Justin. HOW DID YOU BECOME SO CONFIDENT? HAVE YOU EVER STRUGGLED WITH CONFIDENCE?

Confidence is a journey and different for everyone. There were many times in my life that I couldn’t recognise my self-worth and truly hated the way I looked in the mirror, but I was fortunate to have been raised by a family that taught me the importance of feeling confident in my own skin. Whenever I would struggle with my confidence, my mother would remind me that my body had the ability to change someone’s life one day.

INFLUENCER Beauty is inclusive, diverse and begins from within. It’s personal and not defined by your appearance.

St Tropez Self Tan Purity Bronzing Water Gel + Mist.

IF YOU COULD GIVE YOUR YOUNGER SELF ONE PIECE OF ADVICE WHAT WOULD IT BE?

If something doesn’t come through for you -- a job, a relationship, anything -- then it wasn’t for you. Don’t let that stop you from going after what you want. HOW DO YOU SEE THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY CHANGING SINCE YOU BEGAN WORKING?

I’m excited to see the progress we’ve made and all the change that has happened, but we still have a long way to go until everyone feels accepted and represented. I can’t wait to see more representation across beauty and fashion, and worked towards making the industry more inclusive. WHAT’S YOUR NUMBER ONE CONFIDENCEBOOSTING SECRET?

Affirmations. My daily mantra is ‘You are bold, you are brilliant and you are beautiful.’ I started affirmations because at one point, I couldn’t even look in the mirror and confidently say ‘I love you’. When you think and speak positively about yourself, you change your entire state of mind. You become more self-assured and worthy. WHAT’S YOUR BIGGEST BEAUTY FAUX PAS?

Forgetting to take off your makeup at the end of the day is always a mistake! Your skin repairs and rejuvenates itself during your sleep, so you don’t want to go to bed with anything left on your face that could hinder that. WHY HAVE YOU CHOSEN TO WORK WITH ST TROPEZ?

I have always taken great care of my skin and have been mindful of the amount of sun exposure I receive. I come from a family of farmers, who spent lots of time in the sun without knowing the effects

of constant skin exposure. I love that St Tropez products allow you to achieve a really natural looking glow throughout the year without having to spend extended amounts of time in the sun. Therefore, I started spray tanning and using self-tanner products to achieve a glow in a healthier, safer way, and quicker way. TELL US ABOUT YOUR COLLABORATION WITH ST TROPEZ.

I’m so excited to share my limited edition Ultimate Glow Kit in collaboration with St Tropez. It comes with the new Luxe Whipped Crème Mousse and an exclusive applicator mitt co-designed by me. This formula gives an instant natural glow while developing into a healthy golden tan that lasts for up to a week. It also has Hyaluronic Acid, Rosehip Oil & Vitamin E for added hydration and skin health, so it’s a multipurpose dream. I love that it’s touch-dry within seconds with zero transfer — even onto my white sheets! The subtle fragrance was inspired by some of my favourite scents. It’s so yummy! The St Tropez Ashley Graham Limited Edition Ultimate Glow Kit is available exclusively from Priceline.

ASHLEY’S TOP 7 CAN’T-LIVE-WITHOUT BEAUTY ESSENTIALS:

• Oxygen facials with Mzia Shiman • I always carry rose water with me as well as the St.Tropez Self Tan Purity Bronzing Water Face Mist • Skin Medica Facial Cleanser • Le Labo Lys 41 fragrance • Clarins Hydra-Essentiel Moisture Replenishing Lip Balm • Mario Badescu Drying Lotion • Dermophisiologique Chrono Age White • Mama Glow Anointed Love Butter

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |93

BRAND NEWS

Take matte Revlon has launched a three step system to prep, set and lock makeup - including ColorStay Grip Matte Primer, ColorStay Blot Setting Powder and ColorStay Lock Setting Mist. The range mattiﬁes, blurs pores and controls shine while extending makeup wear for up to 16 hours. Enhanced with a superfood detox blend of citrus, aloe and broccoli extracts, this formula also works to defend and boost skin’s resistance against daily pollutants, such as stress and pollution. This range is free from added parabens, phthalates, and mineral oils. Available at Chemist Warehouse, Priceline, Big W, Independent Pharmacies and Myer. https://revlonanz.com

Skincare story Trinny London has launched ‘Chapter 1’ of its skincare range – two cleansers – because a clean canvas is the first and most important step. The formulations are packed with high-dose actives and skin-loving ingredients. Be Your Best Enzyme Balm Cleanser is oil-based to nourish skin and melt away makeup, and Better Off AHA/PHA Gel Cleanser is formulated with liquid exfoliants to go a little deeper and slosh away dulling dead skin cells. Used together or alone they leave the skin perfectly prepped for the next step. Both are refillable. https://trinnylondon.com/au

Together at last The brightening power of Vitamin C and the correcting power of Retinol join forces in one supercharged, lightweight serum. The Strivectin Super-C Retinol Serum is the ultimate collaboration and a skincare science breakthrough featuring two forms of stabilised Vitamin C + Acerola Cherry Extract to restore clarity and brighten dull, tired skin and Retinol to smooth rough texture and fine lines. Amplified by NIA-114™, StriVectin’s proprietary form of Niacin, the serum works to strengthen the skin barrier for a renewed, glowing complexion. Available at Priceline. www.strivectin.com 94| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

BRAND NEWS

Sustainable shave A married Queensland-based couple have made it their mission to plant 1 million trees and remove 1 million disposable razors from landfill. Make My Shave reusable razor replaces the convenience of disposable razors while being kinder to curves and the planet. The razor subscription service comes with free, carbon-offset delivery across Australia, and the superior blades extend the life of the razor. The packaging is compostable and through a partnership with One Tree Planted, Make My Shave plant a tree with every delivery. www.makemyshave.com.au

Time to shine Sisley’s Phyto-Rouge Shine lipstick combines the lacquered shine of gloss with the comfort and hydration of a lip balm along with the vibrant colour of a classic lipstick. For the first time, its slimline tube is refillable. Phyto-Rouge Shine is available in 12 colours that glide on and melt into the lips for a fresh and radiant look. Designed with high-tech pigments, Phyto-Rouge Shine lends a flash of colour. It comes in four different colour families and two finishes: shiny and iridescent. An ultra-comfortable formula for a day-long application. Available at David Jones stores nationally and online from March 13. www.sisley-paris.com/en-AU

You had me at Aloha Hawaiian Tropic has launched some new deliciously tropical Body Mists and a new addition to the suncare SPF50+ range – Face Fragrance Free. Hawaiian Tropic Body Mists are light enough to be spritzed all over the body. Shimmer sprays include Aloha Coco Shimmer with creamy coconut and tropical berries or Golden Paradise with warm sands and

creamy coconut. There’s also a spritz for every tropical occasion – Exotic Breeze with juicy mango and golden amber, Summer Dreams with passion flower and mango musks and Tropical Oasis with island coconut and raspberry sorbet. Hawaiian Tropic Body Mists are available exclusively from Chemist Warehouse or go to www.escentialsbrands.com for further information.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |95

Out & About

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty.

YOUNG AT HEART WHO: Cardiologist and 2GBs Health Living Host Dr Ross Walker and Founder of Spa & Wellness Kris Abbey. WHAT: A delicious lunch with some cocktail celebrations to mark the launch of Jeunesse L1FE CirQul8, the latest evidence-based innovation in health and wellbeing for immunity, energy, heart and more. PR by The 6AM Agency. WHERE: Bondi Icebergs. All images Esteban La Tessa.

01. 01.

BOTANICAL BREAKFAST

01. Dr Ross Walker. 02. Kris Abbey. 03. Jeunesse L1FE CirQul8.

WHO: Pierre Fabre CEO Laurent Emmanuel Saffré, ANZ Training Manager Janis McNicholas, Marketing Director Catherine Thiebaut and Brand Manager Victorine Mary. WHAT: A botanical breakfast to celebrate the launch of Klorane’s new repairing Organic Cupuaçu range including shampoo, conditioner and mask, designed for very dry and damaged hair. PR by MaxMediaLab. WHERE: The Calyx, Royal Botanic Garden. 01. Catherine Thiebaut, Victorine Mary, Janis McNicholas and Sophie Blakely.

02. Pierre Fabre CEO Laurent Emmanuel Saffré.

02.

03. MaxMediaLab CEO and co-founder Lynette Phillips.

02.

03.

96| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

03.

OUT & ABOUT

CALL OF THE WILD WHO: Retreatment Botanics Managing Director and CoFounder Trudi Jaye, President of The Orangutan Foundation International Australia Kobe Steele and President of Orangutan Alliance Maria Abadilla. WHAT: An overnight stay and facial to experience Retreatment Botanics’ ethical, effective and transformative and skincare range, including their hero product Restore Serum. PR by MaxMediaLab. WHERE: Wildlife Retreat - Taronga Zoo. 01.

01. Each guest

was treated to a facial using the Retreatment Botanics range.

02. A sanctuary

tour of the zoo before dinner.

03. Retreatment Botanics Managing Director and Co-Founder Trudi Jaye.

02.

03.

INSPIRATIONAL LUNCH WHO: General Manager at L’Oréal Teresa Love and Speaker, Author, Facilitator and Coach Donna McGeorge. WHAT: An intimate luncheon to celebrate the year that was with SkinCeuticals followed by a Q and A with best-selling author and time management expert Donna McGeorge. PR by Bastion Amplify. WHERE: 12-Micron, Barangaroo. All images Esteban La Tessa.

01.

01. Professional Beauty’s

Ruby Feneley and Hannah Gay with Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene.

02. Author Donna

McGeorge and Teresa Love from L’Oréal.

03. Rescu Founder and

03.

Editor Bahar Etminan

02.

RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022 |97

Brand

index

1000Hour, Front and back cover, 10-11 www.1000hour.com.au ANC, 28-29 www.a-n-c.com Bathefex, IBC www.bathefex.com.au DermaGen, 26-27 www.dermagen.net.au EcoTools, 5 www.ecotools.com.au FERMIO, 12-13 www.fermio.com.au

Heat Group, 37 www.heatgroup.com.au Inspire Brands, 22 www.inspirebrands.com.au Naos, 60-61 www.naos.com/en Revlon, IFC, 3, 17 www.revlonanz.com Skin Physics, 8-9 www.skinphysics.com.au Weleda, 51-54 www.weleda.com.au

98| RETAIL BEAUTY AUTUMN 2022

BATH & BODY BLISS Celebrate the ritual of bathtime relaxation and calm body, mind and senses with spa-inspired essentials for everyday.

bathefex.com.au