SEP•OCT 2021 THE BIBLE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY Cutting Edge Technology to invest in
MIND THE GAP
How to cater for all skin types
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Editor’s letter PB Radar News Promotion Viewpoint: Digital Defamation Cover story: Unleash your natural beauty Skincare: Get active New in skin and beauty Beauty: Brighten up Nails: Colour Block Masterclass: The beauty memo with Victoria Curtis Promotion - Ultraceuticals Talking Point: The hi-tech revolution Skinfluencer: Buying the right salon tech, the right way Beauty Black Book: Lisa Eldridge exclusive Salon Profile: Melanie Grant – Handle with care Beauty Investigation: Mind the gap Interiors: Lashings of Ambience with Fancy Lash Wellness: Workplace mental health during lockdown Body: In bed with Profile: The Bespoke Experience Talking Beauty: The electronic facelift Business: Giving an unforgettable client experience Tanning: Get your glow-on Business: Surviving after lockdown Home Grown Heroes Career how I got here: Michelle Reeve Profile: Luxe Cosmetic Clinic’s Jeff Chen Beauty escape: Searching-state-to-state Last Word: Zachary Riggs, NIXE Care
ON THE COVER Otto Mitter - Founder of Elleebana reveals how to navigate the booming eyelash industry for our cover story on page 28. Find out how he has remained at the top of the lash game and why it’s important to consider product guidelines.
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When it comes to the business of beauty and tapping into emerging markets, Otto Mitter, Managing Director Ex-Imports has spent more than 25 years travelling the globe and fine tuning his craft. In our cover story he chats about being the brand founder of Elleebana and shares his knowledge on how to navigate the booming world of lashes on page 28. Technology advancements are forging ahead and in Talking Point on page 48 – we chat to device owners and salons about the emerging market and what businesses have invested in to stay ahead of the beauty game. Find the perfect devices and formulas to boost your business. Let’s face it – 2021 has been a tough year for salon owners everywhere from the lockdowns to the task of re-imagining operations to training staff. Industry stalwart Matt Williams, founder of Professional Beauty Solutions, knows all too well the challenges of tough times and shares with us his top tips for a successful 2022. We hope you enjoy this edition! FOLLOW US:
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We chat to this beauty entrepreneur for The founder of Waterlily reveals her our Masterclass about her new range business journey in Career How I Got on page 40. Here on page 88. “My priority has always been to create products that address beauty concerns that are common amongst women. We consider issues such as dry or dull skin, dark circles, pigmentation, rosacea, thin brows or uneven skin tone, and our goal is to formulate or design a product that targets these concerns and offer solutions through the use of good quality makeup products.’’
“Passion is a great driver to create something beautiful, but it’s your ongoing commitment to your brand and personal values and ethos that will fuel you and light the path when things get tough.”
Matt Williams This founder of Professional Beauty Solutions reveals some key survival tips for business success on page 84. “If you want to survive in business, you absolutely need to offer your clients something that nobody else can. This point is critical even when we’re not experiencing a crisis.”
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 15
SPRING IS HERE! The Professional Beauty team love this time of year, not only because the days are longer and the promise of summer is on its way – but make-up looks morph from the dark moody palettes of winter into this season’s unmissable brights! And what a kaleidoscope it is - check out our trend report roundup from our beauty editor Ruby Feneley on page 36. We also chat with stunning Victoria Curtis for a quick Masterclass, utilising all the latest new products from her range – Curtis Collection by Victoria on page 40.
On our RADAR
THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON PAYOT EXPAND SUSTAINABILITY ACTION WITH THE RELEASE OF MY PAYOT
Cult professional skincare brand Payot has been making strides in its sustainability efforts – removing leaflets from its products and using cardboard sourced from sustainably managed forests. They are redoubling their efforts and from 2021 all-new retail products will be made of 100% recycled and/or recyclable materials. The entire range will be transitioned to recyclables by 2025 to achieve plastic neutrality by 2030. They are celebrating their commitment with the new range My Payot - a combination of antioxidant rich apothecary style skincare products, along with complexion products including a C.C cream and 3-in-1 Tinted Glow stick. Check out the My Payot range in our makeup and skincare pages. Payot, (02) 9874 1166
IL MAKIAGE ACQUIRES ISRAELI DEEP-TECHAI COMPUTER VISION START-UP VOYAGE81 Recently launched in Australia, Il Makiage makeup is the fastest growing online artistry brand, having accelerated online sales with sophisticated colour matching algorithms and an online reviews system. Il Makiage is doubling down on its virtual service prowess acquiring Israeli deeptech start-up Voyage 81. The move is set to enhance Il Makiage’s impressive e-commerce machine learning capabilities – but the Voyage81 system also has potential beyond cosmetics. The Voyage81 uses hyperspectral imaging software with the potential to transform the beauty and wellness industry. The human eye sees three wavelengths of light, green and blue. However, the proprietary software can apply 31 channels of light – using just a smartphone camera. The software can identify acne before it forms, create melanin and haemoglobin maps and detect facial blood flow – previously available only through the hyperspectral, in-person camera imaging available at dermatologist offices and clinics. Voyage 81 can perform accurate skin analysis online and has the potential to bridge the gap between in-person and online skin services. Stay tuned for more in the next issue of Professional Beauty. Ilmakiage.com/au
FAST FACT PRIORI LAUNCH FIRST AT-HOME LED MASK
In a brand first, Priori has launched the Priori Unveiled LED Mask, a flexi-fit silicone mask that uses scientifically proven wavelengths (6mm+) to stimulate collagen and elastin production, improve blood flow and increase tissue oxygenation. The mask is temperature-controlled and combines red and near-infrared light to deliver results in 1minutes. In a consumer trial, participants found noticeable results in four weeks following 3-5 days of use. The product launched in the US in 2020 where it won SHAPE’s Well-Tech Award. It is set to be just as popular in Australia, particularly as beauty lovers lose access to their favourite businesses during state-wide lockdowns. www.priori-skincare.com.au
There is a race to create synthetic alternatives for Palm Oil, an ingredient found in 70% of personal care products that are contributing to 39% reduction of the Bornean rainforest. Synthetic alternatives to environmentally damaging ingredients are on the rise – Biossance has become an independent supplier of synthetic squalene and Swiss fragrance company Givaudan has successfully fermented and distributed a synthetic ambroxide alternative. Bill Gates has invested $20 million in C16 Biosciences who have successfully produced fermented synthetic palm oil.
LYCON RELEASES AT-HOME TREATMENT FOR POST-WAX INGROWN HAIRS
At home care has never been more essential and waxing giants Lycon has released a new aftercare product that will save clients from less-than-pleasant waxing mishaps. The LYCON ingrown-X-it wipes are pre-moistened with a breakthrough formula: Salicylic and Lactic acid have been coupled with soothing Allantoin and Arnica. The wipes present a perfect solution for post-wax ingrowns, depilatory cream and shaving rashes and face and body breakouts. Decongesting, moisturising and soothing for the face and body, the wipes can be used twice daily on clean dry skin. Lydia of LYCON says “They are quick, easy and convenient to use after waxing in the salon and at home.” Vegan | Cruelty-Free | Gluten Free www.lycon.com.au
FAST FACT Post-pandemic consumers are more focused on appearance and wellbeing than ever with 26% saying they plan to make more of an effort with their appearance once they exit lockdown and 27% of women saying they are more likely to prioritise selfcare and wellbeing post lockdown. PlusDent Research, 2021
BRAND FIRST: SKINCEUTICAL’S AND EST CLINIC PARTNER TO OPEN MELBOURNE FLAGSHIP Located in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD at 271 Collins St is a brand new flagship city clinic, built in partnership between EST and SkinCeuticals. Positioned in Melbourne’s high-end luxury precinct and nestled behind a heritage façade, this new business will be delivering cutting-edge results at a location that fuses cosmeceutical boutique with aesthetic expertise. The high-concept clinic is the first of its kind in the southern hemisphere, representing a collaboration to bring the best of physician lead knowledge in aesthetic treatments together with the retail and product expertise of SkinCeuticals. At the helm of the store is Dr. Frank Lin – Specialist Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgeon, who says “Clients will experience a completely personalised journey from the moment they enter the store. Skin analysis, a full range of aesthetic treatments and procedures, through to customised skincare solutions, including the groundbreaking SkinCeuticals Custom DOSE, are seamlessly provided in an elevated premium environment.” Check out the SkinCeuticals flagship in our November-December issue.
MEN’S COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE BRAND THE SKILLS HITS ADORE BEAUTY PLATFORM The men’s skincare market broke $10.1 million in 2020, growing +5% in a global pandemic (Beauty Directory, 2021), and beauty giants are listening. Adore Beauty, who retail cosmeceutical skincare lines ASAP, Aspect, Dermalogica and Medik8 have picked up men’s skincare range, The SKILLS in a move to target the growing male consumer segment. The Skills products are currently ranged in salons throughout Australia and Adore Beauty hopes the new partnership will boost their cosmeceutical offering. Mia Scundi, Skincare Category Manager for Adore Beauty says: “The SKILLS philosophy represents a simple, yet highly active range of products that are unintimidating and accessible.” With a three-product range including The Anti Ageing Foaming Face Wash, The Auto-Correct Face Serum, and The Detox Day Face Mask. Paul, owner of The SKILLS believes that easy to navigate skincare lines achieve better cut through with male consumers. He says, “We find we have given men products to target their skin concerns comfortably, in a brand that matches their lifestyle but with ingredients that do tackle skin issues.”
NEWS BEAUTYHEALTH CO ACQUIRES AUSTRALIAN HYDRAFACIAL DISTRIBUTOR HIGH TECH LASER According to Business Wire, The BeautyHealth Co, the California-based parent company of The HydraFacial, has acquired overseas third-party distributors in Australia, France, Germany and Mexico. The total price paid for all four distributors is reportedly $35 million ($28 million in cash and $7 million in shares of the Company’s Class A Common Stock). What is HydraFacial? “Every 12 seconds someone in the world is having a HydraFacial. And its unique combination of exfoliation, skin peels, painless extractions and skin nutrition HydraFacial has virtually created a category of its own. With over 2.5 million treatments performed every year, and instantly-noticeable results achieved on virtually all skin types, HydraFacial is a favourite treatment of both clinics and clients for more than two decades. It’s an innovative non-surgical treatment that allows the results of an advanced professional facial to be achieved in less than 30 minutes. HydraFacial uses a patented tip to perform a range of different functions on the skin including cleansing, hydrating, clearing congested pores and delivering serums of antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid. The treatment creates instantly noticeable improvements in skin tone and texture with less treatment time, and without causing discomfort or downtime.” “As we continue to bring Beauty Health to the masses, we are thrilled to convert four of our valued distributors, with whom we’ve built great relationships, into direct management,” said Clint Carnell, Chief Executive Officer of Beauty Health. “This direct model approach brings us closer to both our providers and our consumers around the world, leading to more opportunities for direct engagement and creative experiences that drive brand awareness. We have seen the successful testing case with our earlier acquisition of a former distributor in the UK and plan to continue to build on our scaling and marketing capability globally.” High Tech Laser becomes HydraFacial Australia and New Zealand “After 11 years as exclusive distributors of HydraFacial in Australia and New Zealand, the HydraFacial business of High Tech Laser is proud to announce an exciting change to our business. HydraFacial has acquired High Tech Laser Australia Pty Ltd and we will be operating in Australia and New Zealand as HydraFacial Australia and New Zealand Pty Ltd. By formally joining HydraFacial we increase the HydraFacial global presence and become part a worldwide portfolio that already includes USA, Canada, Mexico, UK, Ireland, Spain, Portugal, Germany, France, China and Japan in having local corporate offices and direct sales. We will be known as HydraFacial ANZ. HydraFacial is now a publicly traded company (as part of the BeautyHealth Company). With the strong demand for the treatment globally, the substantial investments being made and the ever-improving brand profile, we believe the best way to benefit is to work even closer with the parent company by becoming an integral part of their global operation.” HydraFacial is currently available in 87 countries, and continues to work with over 17,000 delivery systems, treating millions of consumers worldwide each year. To learn more about The Beauty Health Company and its flagship brand, HydraFacial, visit online at https://investors. beautyhealth.com
HAIR & BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARD CASUAL RATE TO INCREASE BY 25% OVER NEXT TWO AND A HALF YEARS According to the Hair and Beauty Industry Australia Association (HABA), the beauty industry award casual rate will see a 25% increase over the next two and a half years. “Casual hair and beauty employees are set to gain a pay rise of up to $92 per week by 2023… with the inclusion of a casual loading on top of existing penalty rates,” says HABA. “Hair and Beauty Australia (HABA) National President Maureen Harding said that the agreed change in rates was “fair and sensible” and recognised that many hair and beauty businesses were continuing to struggle from the effects of lockdowns and pandemic restrictions. This change to penalty rates brings hair and beauty payments into line with other, equivalent sectors, and is made possible by HABA’s agreement with unions to phase in the increases and to keep casual loading for public holidays at the same rate.” Gerard Dwyer, National Secretary the SDA the union for retail, fast food warehouse and online retailing, says “Without the onset of COVID, this agreement, which brings hairdressers in line with other sectors, could well have been achieved earlier. This demonstrates the capacity of employers and employees to work together to achieve good results in a tough environment. An increase in wages for lower paid workers, and in this case tradespeople, is just what the Reserve Bank has been advocating. It is good, not only for hairdressers, but for the economy more broadly. This agreement on improved wages may also encourage more Australians to take up a trade, improving the skills base of the workforce, which is just what politicians of all stripes agree is needed.” HABA reports that “Subject to approval by the Fair Work Commission, weekend casual loading rates will increase in 5% increments from January 31, 2022, to December 31, 2023. Union officials said the total increase would be $5.75 an hour, implemented in five $1.15 an hour increments. Casuals doing a single weekend shift would see their pay increase by $46 or $92 for both days.” More information Find out more information on the decision at the Fair Work Commission website. If you are a salon owner seeking advice on how to comply to the new wage measures, you can contact HABA on the Hair and Beauty Australia Workplace Advice Line on (02) 9221 9911 (open from 8.30am to 5.30pm AEST) or if you are a member of the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry Council contact them for advice.
CYNOSURE INKS DEAL WITH LASERAID TO BRING ELITE+ AND ELITEIQ BEAUTY TECH TO MORE SALONS After what has been a tough financial year for the beauty and aesthetics industry, clinic owners may be reluctant to invest in new equipment to expand their treatment menus. But with Laseraid, one of Australia’s top names in professional beauty technology and devices, inking a deal with Cynosure, a leading name in laser hair removal and aesthetic equipment, this may be about to change. For the first time, Cynosure machines Elite+ and EliteIQ will be available on a subscription basis, giving clinics of all sizes the chance to grow without a major upfront capital investment, reducing stress and risk for salons. Cynosure Head of Marketing ANZ Shannon Wooldridge says “We have confirmed a new partnership with Laseraid, who will be offering Cynosure Elite+ and EliteIQ to clinics as part of their subscription model. This means more businesses will have the ability to get the best equipment on the market.” Cynosure’s partnership with Laseraid, means that now all clinics have access to advanced technology ensuring superior patient results and importantly uncompromised patient safety. The Cynosure Elite family of lasers, includes the Elite+ & EliteIQ, for advanced laser hair removal and skin rejuvenation.”
Life is already
“This is a great opportunity for our clients to grow, even during uncertain times,” says Farzad Hendi, Laseraid’s CEO. “It’s always been our goal to provide the best equipment and the addition of Cynosure to the Laseraid offering is a perfect fit in that respect.” The Elite+™ Aesthetic Workstation is a dual-wavelength system delivering reliable, cost-effective treatments for hair removal, vascular treatments, epidermal pigment, and wrinkle reduction. The EliteIQ is a modern, intelligent dual-wavelength aesthetic platform enabling practitioners to perform many of the most requested aesthetic treatments. Laseraid was founded in 2007 with a vision of giving beauty and aesthetics businesses access to superior equipment with less financial pressure. They offer a unique subscription service that includes business and marketing support, servicing, training and more. They even offer salons a buyback scheme, where a salon can sell its device to Laseraid but continue to use that device by paying a subscription fee to Laseraid – this way the salon can free up capital and offload the responsibility for maintaining and servicing the device to Laseraid. The new Cynosure offering rounds out an already diverse range of equipment and consumables offered by Laseraid, including a variety of leading skin treatment devices, body contouring devices and teeth whitening devices. All Laseraid devices and services are backed by comprehensive Laseraid warranties and support.
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NEWS NORWAY BANS UNDISCLOSED RETOUCHED SOCIAL IMAGES FROM INFLUENCERS AND ADVERTISERS Norway has passed legislation that bans influencers, advertisers or anyone paid to post from using retouched or filtered images to social media without attaching a disclosure announcing they have been altered. It passed with a huge majority in favour, as an amendment to the 2009 Marketing and Control Act. It effectively bans influencers and anyone uploading paid posts on social media from using retouched or filtered images without clearly announcing as much within the post. Vice reports that “Under the recently-passed rules, advertisements where a body’s shape, size, or skin has been retouched—even through a filter before a photo is taken— will need a standardised label designed by the Norwegian Ministry of Children and Family Affairs. Examples of manipulations requiring labeling include enlarged lips, narrowed waists, and exaggerated muscles, but it’s not clear if the same will apply to adjustments of lighting or saturation. The law also covers images from influencers and celebrities if they “receive any payment or other benefit” in relation to the post, including on social media platforms Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat, TikTok, and Twitter. Any violations are punishable with escalating fines and, in extreme cases, even imprisonment.” A similar law in the UK, the Digitally Altered Body Images Bill, in the UK is working its way through the legal review system right now. According to the UK Parliament the bill would” require advertisers, broadcasters and publishers to display a logo in cases where an image of a human body or body part has been digitally altered in its proportions; and for connected purposes.” The Advertising Standards Authority in the UK also banned the use of misleading social media beauty filters when advertising cosmetic products in February of this year. The Instagram hashtag #filterdrop, started by makeup artist and model Sasha Louise Pallari, even began to trend last year in a reaction to the rampant and unethical use of filters, according to the BBC. In a sign of the way social media platforms are also owning up to their responsibility to ensure they don’t promote the posting of negative content, Pinterest has became the first social media platform in the world to ban all ads with weight loss language and imagery, which began 1 July 2021. Pinterest says “This makes Pinterest the only major platform to prohibit all weight loss ads. It’s an expansion of our ad policies that have long prohibited body shaming and dangerous weight loss products or claims.”
HYPERSPECTRAL IMAGING COMES TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY AS IL MAKIAGE ACQUIRES TECH START-UP VOYAGE81 IL MAKIAGE, the fastest growing beauty company in the U.S., acquired Voyage81, a deep-tech AI-based computational imaging startup. IL MAKIAGE acquired Voyage81 to integrate the company’s patented Hyperspectral Imaging Systems into its offering and continued commitment to innovating and revolutionising the beauty and wellness industries at-large. This acquisition also sets the stage for launches the company has planned. It’s the second tech acquisition made by the beauty brand within two years. What Voyage81 does Voyage81 is the first and only company in the world to develop patented software that brings hyperspectral imaging capabilities to smartphones. Voyage81’s software extracts over 30 channels of hyperspectral information from RGB images taken with existing smartphone cameras. In addition to its vision software, Voyage81 is currently developing in tandem with some of the largest global smartphone manufacturers a hardware-based solution that builds on the company’s hyperspectral software to significantly enhance photos taken in low-light conditions. What is Hyperspectral Images (HSI)? Sciencedirect.com says hyperspectral imaging is “a technique that analyses a wide spectrum of light instead of just assigning primary colours (red, green, blue) to each pixel. … Unlike other optical technologies that can only scan for a single color, HSI is able to distinguish the full color spectrum in each pixel.” Use in the beauty industry The implications of Voyage81’s technology for the beauty and wellness industries are endless, and the fact that IL MAKIAGE mentions both the beauty and wellness industries when it talks about Voyage81’s acquisition could mean the brand plans on venturing into the wellness space as well as the beauty industry, in which is already established. Voyage81’s software is capable of mapping and analysing skin and hair features, detecting facial blood flows, and creating melanin and hemoglobin maps from a simple smartphone camera photo. The technology, combined with IL MAKIAGE’s current AI algorithms, will enable leveraging users’ personal smartphone cameras to provide unparalleled online matching capabilities to users of IL MAKIAGE and its upcoming homegrown digital beauty and wellness brands. IL MAKIAGE CEO Oran Holtzman says, “For the past two years, we have been searching for computational imaging solutions that can work in beauty and wellness to further advance our existing AI capabilities. I have met dozens of computer vision startups but could not find a technology that can fit our industry and was strong enough to fulfill our goals. Bringing on Voyage81’s patented technology and exceptional team to our tech and data science departments is a HUGE win for our company’s future, our users, and the industry at-large.” “When we met Oran, we were focused on our own rapid growth trajectory with no plans at all to sell” notes Price, Voyage81 co-founder and CEO, ” In fact, we just finished round A funding and were already working with the largest smartphone manufacturers in the world. But after meeting Oran and learning about the company’s long-term vision, we realised that under the IL MAKIAGE platform, Voyage81 technology will serve and benefit hundreds of millions of consumers, fulfilling our founding goal.”
– a cost that small businesses already in financial distress could hardly shoulder – there is another process to help settle disputes and financial problems: mediation. It’s usually cheaper and faster than court, says the NSW Small Business Commission, and is actually geared towards coming up with a resolution that everyone can accept rather than a winner-take-all approach. Why mediate? Price: It’s usually cheaper. There are no legal fees and most states have funds or services set aside for the small businesses mediation process. Time: It’s usually faster than court so you’ll save time you can put to better use getting business back on track Confidentiality: It’s not entered into court records, and you can choose to do it in person or online.
Outcome: Mediation strives to find an outcome both parties can tolerate. It might not be your ideal outcome, but it won’t be the other party’s ideal outcome either. You’ll both walk away with a situation you can handle, whereas court can leave one party devastated, financially or otherwise. The NSW Small Business Commission says “Mediation is a confidential and costeffective way to resolve a disagreement that you can’t resolve by yourself. Learn more about mediation and how it can help your small business. Mediation helps parties to a dispute find settlement options that they can both accept, without having to go to court. Mediation involves a neutral third-party (the mediator) holding a meeting with the main parties to the dispute. The mediator will speak to the parties privately, as well as altogether, to help them explore all available options and try to find the best one that will work for all. Mediation can be done in-person or online.” Daniel Massey, a mediator for the NSW Small Business Commission, says: “I think it’s a great service that the Commission offers to the public – it’s cheap and it’s efficient.”
HOW SMALL BUSINESSES CAN EFFECTIVELY USE MEDIATION TO RESOLVE BUSINESS DISPUTES Did you know that, in New South Wales, the state government’s $1500 fee rebate scheme can be used by small businesses to help pay the cost of mediation? In fact, there are free or cheap resources for small business mediation across all of Australia (links at the bottom of the article for stateby-state information). But why would you end up in mediation anyway? Good question. There are plenty of instances in which mediation is something a small businessowner would resort to, particularly with recurring lockdowns that see businesses shuttered for weeks on end. Beauty salons or small beauty brands can find themselves in tough positions with landlords and vendors or manufacturers. It might be hard to pay rent, so you’d like to ask for a rent reduction. Perhaps you need longer invoicing terms or need to ask for discounted rates after the fact for you honour your commitments at all in this difficult time. Instead of heading to court for disputes
NEWS LIVE-SELLING STARTUP TALKSHOPLIVE SEES UPTAKE IN BEAUTY CATEGORY Real-time social shopping is the latest frontier in online sales, and science-backed American beauty title NewBeauty is launching its professional skincarepacked TestTube subscription on the popular TalkShopLive service. It went live on the channel in September to break down the products in its summer 2021 TestTube, which features a curated collection of innovative products. “As livestream commerce continues to grow in North America, we are thrilled to partner with NewBeauty to serve as a solution to tie content and commerce together for a leading beauty publication,” says Bryan Moore, cofounder and CEO of talkshoplive. “By creating extraordinary live and interactive shopping experiences, NewBeauty serves its existing readers on NewBeauty.com through our embeddable player with checkout capabilities and simultaneously grows their beauty audience on the talkshoplive network. With stars like Alicia Keys, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Kristin Cavallari already utilising talkshoplives’s platform and being featured on the cover of NewBeauty, we look forward to diving into the beauty vertical and working with today’s top beauty tastemakers as the category continues to expand on talkshoplive.” “As a company rooted in innovation, NewBeauty is thrilled to launch on talkshoplive, the leader in live commerce,” says chief revenue officer of NewBeauty, Mike Glaicar. “We believe live social shopping will be a significant channel for commerce in the future, and we’re excited to partner with a trailblazer in the movement to bring an engaging shopping experience to our beauty-obsessed readers.” How does TalkShopLive work? TalkShopLive launched in LA in 2018. It’s an always live social-shopping network, with your favorite brands, artists, celebrities and useful products. They claim to be the first live streaming, social buying and selling platform for anyone, anywhere. It’s like a Home Shopping Network that anyone can use to direct sell anything at anytime from their own social channels or website. It’s an interesting proposition for professional beauty brands who are looking to diversity their revenue and sales streams.
JENNIFER RUDD OF SKINCARE BUSINESS FOUNDATIONS SHARES HER TOP FIVE WEBSITE TIPS FOR BEAUTY BRANDS When you run a business online, your website is your 24/7 shop front. It’s the main way customers discover who you are, learn about your brand and shop your products. And with the rise of online shopping since the start of COVID-19, it’s essential that beauty brand owners set up their websites for success. Skincare Business Foundations Founder Jennifer Rudd lets us in on her top five website tips for beauty brands to optimise their website and make the most of the online shopping boom. 1. Grab (and keep) their attention You only have up to 15 seconds to get a website visitor (i.e. potential customer) interested enough to continue browsing. Which is why the ‘abovethe-fold’ content – what the customer sees before they scroll down – is so important. It’s your brand’s prime real estate and should clearly show what you’re selling and highlight your point of difference. Be clear on who your target market is and create your website content and imagery to attract them. 2. Make it as easy as possible for customers to purchase This sounds like an obvious one, but I see a lot of websites where there is room for improvement in this area. My recommendations here are: • Keep the header navigation menu simple, with “Shop” as the first link • You want the customer to have to make as few clicks as possible to purchase a product – it should be as simple as ‘click click buy’ • Where you sell a lot of products, add them into categories on the Shop page so it’s easier for the customer to find what they want Small changes can make a huge difference in optimising your website for conversion (a fancy way to say making more sales). 3. Display the right policies This one might seem boring, but it’s important! Apart from selling products, your website should also communicate vital information to your customers via your store policies. These should be included in your footer navigation menu. Policies you could include are: • Shipping and Returns Policy – customers should be able to easily see shipping costs prior to purchase (you could also mention shipping cost in an announcement bar), and also know what the returns process is. 4. Think about the end-to-end customer experience These days the opening of a parcel from an online store has become known as the ‘unboxing experience’ and has a big effect on how the customer perceives the brand. The unboxing experience should reflect your branding, e.g. if you’re an eco-conscious brand, customers would expect you to use sustainable and/or recyclable packaging, or if you’re a luxury brand you could use more high-end packaging. 5. Increase your website traffic Did you know the average sales conversion rate for beauty products is 3-4%? So out of 100 visitors to your website, only 3-4 will purchase something. All it means is that to increase sales you need to increase your website traffic, e.g. through social media, SEO (search engine optimisation) or paid advertising. Jennifer can review your website in a 130-point E-Commerce Audit that covers 7 core areas including website setup, content, functionality and more.
NSW Small Business Commission What is required of landlords? The Code of Conduct requires landlords to provide rent relief in proportion with their tenant’s decline in turnover. Of the rent
Eligible commercial landowners are able to apply for relief on up to 100 per cent of their land tax liability for 2021. To be eligible, thelandowner must have reduced rent for the affected tenant by at least the amount being claimed for any period between 1 July 2021 and 31 December 2021.
relief provided, at least 50 per cent must be in the form a waiver, and the balance a deferral. Who is eligible? The Regulation applies to commercial and retail tenants with a turnover of up to $50 million who qualify for the COVID-19 Microbusiness grant, COVID-19 Business Grant or JobSaver Payment. It will prohibit a landlord from evicting or locking out a tenant for certain breaches of the lease unless they have first renegotiated rent and attempted mediation.
Additional funding for affordable mediation The NSW Government has also provided funding to the NSW Small Business Commission to provide additional staff to meet the demand for mediation and assist retail and commercial tenants and landlords to discuss discounts or renegotiating rents. The previous Retail and Other Commercial Leases (COVID-19) Regulation 2021 – which required commercial and retail landlords to attempt mediation before locking out or evicting their tenant – was due to expire on 20 August 2021 and has been amended to include these new measures. The NSW Small Business Commissioner will have more information for landlords and tenants soon.
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RENT RELIEF MEASURES EXTENDED TO 2022 FOR NSW SMALL BUSINESS AND COMMERCIAL LANDLORDS The NSW Small Business Comissioner reports today that the Premier has announced extended rent relief measures for commerical tenants and monthly grants and land-tax relief for commercial landlords. A new $40 million Hardship Fund will also be established to provide a monthly grant of up to $3,000 for small commercial or retail landlords who provide rental waivers of at least the value of the grant and any land tax relief they are eligible for. The Retail and Other Commercial Leases (COVID-19) Regulation 2021 will be extended until 13 January 2022 and will require landlords to renegotiate rent having regard to National Cabinet’s Code of Conduct.
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Just over a decade ago Derelle Mitchell decided that she wanted to create and manufacture beauty products. Here is her story. DERELLE MITCHELL started off by creating shampoo and conditioner products and bought the assets of a small contract manufacturing business that was closing down and offered jobs to a few of their employees so that she had some manufacturing technical expertise to underpin her new venture. After a relatively short period of commuting over an hour to work each way to her newly founded business, Derelle took the big step and purchased a property nearer to home so that she could spend less time in the traffic and more time building her business. So, seven semi-trailer loads of equipment later, business commenced at the new premises in the northern Brisbane bayside suburb of Clontarf with a handful of clients and a small team to make their products. Today the business has more than 30 staff and an enviable list of clients, many taking their brands and products to overseas markets. The business has been built on hard work, employing a great team and developing collaborative partnerships with its clients. Over the past ten years HFM has obtained a number of certifications that can provide clients with great confidence in having their products manufactured by Derelle’s team. After gaining ISO9001 accreditation some eight years ago
the business is now certified organic with COSMOS (the European certified organic standard), Australian Certified Organic and the Organic Food Chain. Furthermore, HFM is now also an ISO 22716 Good Manufacturing Practices for Cosmetics certified business which is a global pre-requisite for cosmetic and skincare products that are to be to be exported to countries around the world. The research and development laboratory at HFM is home to a team of four formulating chemists who develop bespoke formulations for products for HFM clients wanting to take new products to market, everything from high end skincare serums through to hair detanglers and deodorants. Today, HFM is a leading Australian contract manufacturer of personal care, skincare and haircare products that works with companies of all sizes to take beautiful products to market. It has come a long way in 10 years. And there are future plans to build a state-of-the-art GMP/TGA facility for the next phase of growth well into the next decade. If you are looking at getting skincare or haircare products formulated and manufactured you can find out more about the business at www.healthfocusmanufacturers.com.au or by calling the office directly on (07) 3883 1355. n
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Tamara Milligan (07) 3883 1355 email@example.com Don’t forget to refer to this issue of Professional Beauty!
10 YEARS OF CREATING AND MANUFACTURING GREAT SKINCARE AND HAIRCARE PRODUCTS
The Rise of
Digital Defamation Could that bad online review of your beauty salon spell the chance for legal action? Jessica Teas investigates.
Could that bad online review of your beauty salon spell the chance for legal action? Jessica Teas investigates.
DIGITAL DEFAMATION RECENTLY made headlines on the national stage thanks to a Brisbane beauty salon, when its owner was awarded more than $80,000 in damages for a defamatory Instagram story. If you aren’t up to speed with laws around defamation and particularly defamation online, we don’t blame you. But as a beauty business owner it’s worth learning about it to make sure that you can spot it if it happens to you and take steps to deal with it to keep your reputation intact online. After all, the internet is where all the eyeballs are, and it’s more likely than not your first point of contact with potential customers. For many small businesses and sole proprietors the reputation of the business is inextricably linked to that of the founders or owners, says Bill Swannie, lecturer in media law at Victoria University. “A business may be strongly linked to the reputation of certain people, such as its founder or proprietor. Therefore, damage to the individual’s reputation may harm the business name.”
Swannie and Perth lawyer and Lynn & Brown Director Steven Brown both point out that only individuals can sue for defamation but, says Brown, “corporations… can, however, avail themselves of a similar cause of action called ‘injurious falsehood’.” So keep your eyes open for comments and posts against both you and your business.
Defining digital defamation? What is digital defamation? Swannie says “Defamation can take any form – spoken, written, images, etc. Legally, defamation is any communication that is likely to lower a person’s reputation in the eyes of an ordinary person.” He says the most common channels on which you see this happening are the usual suspects – Facebook, Twitter, Instagram et al. And it’s risen in tandem with the rise in social media use says Swannie, and with it the ability to potentially damage someone’s reputation (or have yours damaged) at the click of a button. Carolyn Dorrian, Director of Dorrian and Co. says “Increasing access to online sources in recent years, particularly social media have significantly increased the ease and speed at which unverified communications can be made and shared. Consequently, the reputational damage is occurring at a much faster rate then previously.”
Digital defamation on the rise Brown says there are few defamation cases overall that make it to court in
What can I do to prevent it? All the experts agree that with any business operating in this new digital landscape it’s your responsibility as a business owner to monitor online channels and mentions of you and your business and to act fast if you notice anything defamatory said about you, or, indeed, if you find any comments left on your channels by third parties that could be considered defamatory. Brown says “You must monitor your social media platforms for any harmful comments made about your business and act quickly. Dorrian believes “All business, regardless of size and industry should ensure they have a risk management plan which includes the risks associated with the publication of defamatory content. This can include: checking insurance policies are inclusive of the costs of defamation, injurious falsehoods or contraventions to Australian Consumer Law. • Having internal business policies for moderating and responding to content on digital and social media. • Training on business policy on digital content amongst the business and its employees. • Seeking legal advice on appropriate measures before an incident arises.”
Australia, but the percentage that are digital defamation cases has jumped from 17% in 2013 to more than half of all cases now. “These statistics indicate that digital defamation is increasingly becoming an issue,” says Brown “which can probably be attributed to a growth in social media use. Between 2013 and 2017, 16 defamation cases involved Facebook posts, 20 involved emails, four involved tweets and two involved texts.” “Instagram is currently the most common platform for trolls and digital defamation at the moment,” says Dorrian. “The most common platforms for digital defamation include social media platforms… websites, searching tools as Google, opinion platforms as blogs, review and feedback sites. Conventional communications as emails and text messages can still be a source for defamatory content, but they are less common.”
‘concerns notice’ to the other side. A ‘concerns notice’ under the Defamation Act requires the other party to retract and apologise for their statement.” Often removing the post and an apology from the person who posted it are enough. But, says Brown, “If no apology is forthcoming, you can proceed to court.” If the defamatory item is on social media or another publisher platform, it’s also worth using the reporting tools provided to seek removal of the post, since, per Australian law, companies are now responsible for any defamatory content posted on their channels by third parties too. “Defamation law requires publishers review or verify sources of information in the event of a complaint from a person or business. If there is an evident risk of defamation,” say Dorrian, “a party can: Take a screenshot or record of the offending material and bring your concerns of defamation to the attention of the publisher and request that they retract or amend the material and provide a public apology addressing the content as inaccurate.” With social media, particularly of the ephemeral variety (i.e. disappearing), screenshot everything and save it with the rest of the evidence you have collected. Don’t expect a post to still be online later. With the changes to the Defamation Act in 2020 there are new caps on damages awarded. Legal fees, even before you go to court, can be costly, so it’s important to note that going to court is not the go-to option for even the most cashed-up small business. Dorrian says one of the changes being implemented is “The introduction of a serious harm threshold and a cap on non-economic damages: a person of business making a claim must prove the defamatory material has, or will likely cause both serious reputational harm and serious financial loss to their business. The amount compensable for intangible loss, that is, reputation alone, is also restricted.”
Is it defamation or just not very nice? Sometimes people write things online that aren’t very nice. In fact, sometimes it seems like most of what’s on the internet is pretty awful. But a bad review of your business or a re-telling of an unpleasant (yet real) interaction isn’t necessarily defamatory, as much as it might sting. There are plenty of ways to deal with bad yet truthful reviews or comments about you personally that just seem plain snarky. Brown says “It is important to keep in mind that not every ‘bad review’ is necessarily defamatory, or an injurious falsehood. For something to be defamatory it has to be false, so if what it said about your business is true, then it can’t be defamatory. This can also be the case where it is clear that a comment is simply somebody’s opinion that they are not holding it out as being fact.” n
What can I do if I’ve been defamed online? Act fast (within one year of publication of the offending material), keep records, seek counsel and official removal of the offending post(s). Don’t wait, or you will miss your window of opportunity and the longer something defamatory stays online the more damage it’ll do to your reputation and that of your business, even if it’s false. Brown says “Keep all evidence and create a list of the dates, times and comments that are being made. Then contact a lawyer who can submit a
The eyelash industry has grown phenomenally in the last 20 years. Over time, there have been many advances in the technology to stimulate hair growth and condition. Otto Mitter chats to Anita Quade about navigating the booming business as a brand owner. Many clients ask me about growth serums for eyelashes, or technically in most cases they should be called “eyelash enhancement serums” which have been extremely popular. When producing these serums as a brand owner I have to be careful with the way we market certain claims. Using the term “makes your eyelashes longer” and “makes lashes longer or thicker because it activates the hair follicle” is a claim that the product is changing the physical structure and function of an eyelash. To make this claim in the United States the product should be classed as an OTC (over the counter) drug. Similar rules apply in Australia, the TGA and NCCTG cosmetics claims guidelines state that if your product is a cosmetic it should not say stimulates hair follicles (growth) or replaces thinning hair. You can, however say “helps make hair look thicker and longer” or “promotes lustre” essentially using more descriptive cosmetic claims. Many products that are deemed as cosmetic products which contain peptides, vitamins and conditioning agents do have great benefits and consumers have had success with certain formulas that make the lashes appear more voluminous and that have increased density. The description of the product should say something along the lines of conditioner or enhancer.
NOT ONE PRODUCT FITS ALL The other reality we have to accept as individuals is certain products that offer eyelash enhancing properties and that contain amino acids or peptides, don’t always work on everyone. We are all different with our genetics and as a consumer we have to be realistic and understand that just because we see peptide in the ingredients this doesn’t guarantee anything as far as hair growth or long term thickening is concerned. I have personally used Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 and Myristoyl Pentapeptide 17 combined in a serum with hydrolysed keratin and vitamins, generously on my lashes every single day for eight weeks and up to that point it hadn’t worked at all as far as stimulating more density or length in my lashes. You’ll see many other reviews from people saying the same, yet these peptides and active ingredients have been invitro tested and clinically tested by the raw material suppliers. They have had some results to say the contrary and that they do in fact work.
CLARITY ON CLINICAL TRIALS Clinical testing or trials is another term that consumers can be interested in and when it comes to many serums there has been vast clinical trials about the effectiveness of certain peptides on
THERE ARE SO MANY VARIABLES AND AT THE END OF THE DAY YOU ALWAYS NEED TO TRY A PRODUCT YOURSELF TO SEE IF IT WORKS FOR YOU OR YOUR CLIENTS, DO EXTENSIVE RESEARCH, THIS WAY YOU CAN FEEL CONFIDENT ABOUT ANY CLAIMS THAT ARE BEING MADE ABOUT THE RESULTS. lash growth. It’s important that any consumer understands how clinical trials work and how the evaluation has been concluded. Always ask for the method of clinical trial and method of testing if you have any doubts, this will give you a clearer picture as to how they came to the conclusion, that the product does what it says it does. Invitro testing is performed in a test tube under specific conditions in a laboratory and this is a completely different environment to what my natural eyelashes are in every day. A clinical trial is generally conducted by utilising the products in a real-world environment on a certain number of test subjects or models, these trials are then evaluated by experts and then self-evaluated by the users of the product. These clinical trials are usually conducted by the brand or the material supplier independently. From all the research I’ve seen with these kinds of invitro or clinical trials there is always a fine print disclaimer in the product data material, saying that the results can’t be guaranteed and that’s because what works for one person, doesn’t necessarily mean it will work for another.
GETTING THE RESULTS Let’s always remember results can vary due to how much was used in the application, how frequent the application, hormonal, genetic factors or perhaps even the formula may not be effective. There are so many variables and at the end of the day you always need to try the product yourself to see if it works for you or your clients. Do extensive research, this way you can feel confident about any claims that are being made with the results. In the beauty industry we want happy clients. I find discussing client expectations in the consultation session always helps to minimise issues that may arise later, being open and honest on how results can vary is the best policy from my experience.
ENHANCING THE EXPERIENCE Using a conditioning product on eyelashes and brows can certainly have benefits in my opinion, especially when performing lash or brow lift services as these treatments do tend to leave the hairs drier after the Step 1 process. Similar to when you shampoo your hair, you condition after and this changes the surface area leaving it hydrated, with more body and allowing you to style easier.
AFTER TREATMENT CARE Once you have had a lash lift or brow lamination service it is generally recommended to continue using serums daily to maximise the continued hydration into the hair, which really helps the styling element. Having an after-care range for your lash and brow clients is a win for you and your clients, there’s some return business for you, but there’s real benefits for the client, so it’s something that you can genuinely feel good about offering in your salon. Keep in mind that to get maximum benefit in most cases they should be used regularly, if not daily. If you put a serum on with a peptide once every four or six weeks, then chances are you’re not going to see a real benefit, because putting a serum topically on eyelashes for such a short amount of exposure will dissipate quickly after the initial application. However if I frequently apply a serum every day, then there is more of a chance of receiving benefits from the peptide or actives in the formula, although applying every day still may not guarantee that it will increase growth or volume in lashes, but it will most certainly keep them more hydrated and increase your chances of seeing results.
PUMP UP THE VOLUME
HAVING AN AFTER-CARE RANGE FOR YOUR LASH AND BROW CLIENTS IS A WIN FOR YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS, THERE’S SOME RETURN BUSINESS FOR YOU, BUT THERE’S REAL BENEFITS FOR THE CLIENT, SO IT’S SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN GENUINELY FEEL GOOD ABOUT OFFERING IN YOUR SALON.
Let’s talk about increasing volume of hair or lashes, when consumers hear the term volume, they generally expect lashes to be thicker. Most of us know if you put a conditioner on your hair or some volumising powder it may give the surface area more volume because of the added substance, even putting water on my lashes will increase their volume by 15 - 20%! But how long does this volume last? That’s the important question to ask and understand with anything that says it increases volume. If we put mascara on eyelashes that can increase volume by 50 100%, but it washes off when you remove the mascara. Anything that is going to have a “long-lasting” effect at increasing length or density of lashes would generally need to be something that is applied regularly on a daily or frequent basis. If I could apply a product once every four or six weeks that would increase my hair volume by 20 or 30% for a long period of time, every single hair restoration brand out there would have a product that did just that, and when it comes to re-growing hair, it’s a long road of incorporating a frequent routine in getting the actives to increase the size of the hair follicle combined with oral supplements, not just putting a serum topically on the hair itself once every few weeks.
MEETING EXPECTATIONS I’ve consulted with many experienced hair restoration companies, scientists and raw material suppliers on this topic, because as a brand owner myself that sells lash serums it’s important that we give our clients the best information to meet our client’s expectations. Understanding and being able to explain claims is important, then you can feel confident when choosing the products that are right for you and your clients. n Otto Mitter is multi-award winning beauty educator, cosmetic chemist, keynote speaker, an international judge for lash and brow competitions and global brand owner for Elleebana. www.elleebana.com
Skinceuticals, Tripeptide R Neck Repair, Skinceuticals, skinceuticals.com.au Dermalist, Age Defying Multi Complex, dermalist.com Payot, My Payot Masque, Sleep & Glow, Payot, 02 9874 1166 Calecim Professional, Professional Pigment Solution, Advanced Cosmeceuticals, 1800 242 01 Dermaviduals, Complexion Skincare Liposomes Plus, (1300) 420 223 Dermalogica, Smart Response Serum, Dermalogica, 1800 659 118 Biologi, Cleanser Refresh, Biologi, firstname.lastname@example.org Comfort Zone, Skin Regimen Recharching Mist, skinregimen.com.au 32
From established heroes to innovative newcomers, here are the cult-cosmeceuticals set to grace top shelves and backbars this spring. Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
Mesoetetic, Ultimate Micropeel, Advanced Cosmeceuticals, 1800 242 01 Aspect, Super PD Complex, Advanced Skin Technology, 1800 648 851 Sunday Riley, Good Genes, email@example.com Babor, Cellular Repair Eye and Lip Serum, BABOR Cosmetics Australia, 1800 139 139 Derma Energy, Black Label EE Eye Cream, Derma Energy, 1300 799 709 Skinceuticals, CE Ferulic Serum, Skinceuticals, skinceuticals.com.au Sothys, Soothing Velvet Cream, Sothys, 1800 816 599 Augustinus Bader, The Rich Cream, augustinusbader.com
HydroPeptide Solar Defense Hand Guard, hydropeptide.com.au
Priori UnveiLED Mask 61 2 8667 4695
PCA Skin R Hyaluronic Overnight Mask 1800 648 851
Biologique Recherche Liposmose Serum biologique-recherche.com
Augustinus Bader Skin Complex Daily Dietary Supplement augustinusbader.com
HydroPeptide Optimist hydropeptide.com.au
Comfort Zone Hydramemory Hydra & Glow Ampoules comfort-zone.com.au
Rezenerate Rezenerate Nano Facial Device rezenerate.com.au/pages/ contact-us
Cilk Beauty Daily Radiance Collagen cilkbeauty.co
The Secret Body Bundle thesecretskincare.com.au
SkinCeuticals Tetrapeptide-R Neck Repair www.skinceuticals.com
Il Makiage Color Boss Master Palette in Treat Yo’Self www.ilmakiage.com
Jane Iredale Glow Time Sticks Margifox Distributors, 1300 850 008
Trinny London Eye2Eye Pot in Chance Trinny London, trinnylondon.com.au Napoleon Perdis Matte Setting Spray Napoleonperdis.com
Advanced Mineral Makeup, Cream Luminizer in So Beautiful Pink, Advanced Mineral Makeup, advancedmineralmakeup.com.au Advanced Mineral Makeup, Liquid Foundation, Advanced Mineral Makeup, advancedmineralmakeup.com.au Issada, CC8 Mineral Colour Corrective Cream, Issada, (07) 3904 2288 Il Makiage, Super Sheer Lip Color in Rave, ilmakiage.com/au Il Makiage, No Filter Poreless Base Smoothing Primer, Il Makiage, ilmakiage.com/au Curtis Collection by Victoria, Vitamin C Lip Tint in Cheeky, Curtis Collection, (03) 9421 5577 Kester Black, Daydream Liquid Lipstick, Kester Black, kesterblack.com Kester Black, Beauty Sleep Liquid Lipstick, Kester Black, kesterblack.com Zuii Organic, Certified Organic Flora Lip & Cheek Crème in Cari, +61 5596 2319 or firstname.lastname@example.org Jane Iredale, Liquid Minerals Foundation, Margifox Distributors, 1300 8509 008 Boracay Skin, Kabuki Body Brush, Borocay Skin, email@example.com
Spring has sprung! It’s been a long winter so it’s time to get fresh: celebrate the change of season with so-bright-they’re-bursting lips, ultra-violet cheeks and a barely-there base. Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
Sisley, So Stretch Mascara in Brown, Sisley, sisley-paris.com.au Sothys, Illuminating Trio, 10 Beige, Sothys, 1800 816 599 Babor, Super Soft Lip Oil in 01 Pearl Pink, BABOR Cosmetics Australia, 1800 139 139 Babor, Tinted Hydra Moisturiser, BABOR Cosmetics Australia, 1800 139 139 PAYOT, My Payot C.C. Glow, Payot, 02 9874 1166 Givenchy, Prisme Libre Setting and Finishing Loose Powder, Cosmax Prestige, +61 2 9695 5678 Sisley, Le Phyto-Blush in 2 Rosy Fuschia, Sisley-paris.com.au Jane Iredale, Smooth Affair Illuminating Glow Primer, Margifox Distributors, 1300 8509 008 Gorgeous Cosmetics, Lipstick in ‘Man Trap’, Gorgeous Cosmetics, 03 8585 3702 Skin02, Radiance Mineral Primer, Skin02, firstname.lastname@example.org SLA, Shiny Ink Coat, Liquid Glossy Lipstick, 06, Encore Beauty, (02) 4722 3250 Ere Perez, Vanilla Highlighter, Sun Halo, Ere Perez, (612) 9130 3582 Ardell, Aqua Lashes, Beauty HQ, beautyhq.com.au Gorgeous Cosmetics, Brow Pencil, Gorgeous Cosmetics, (03) 8585 3702 SLA, Pinceau/Brush, Encore Beauty, (02) 4722 3250
Let your inner artist run wild with a serious colour injection. Think bold, playful hues, hand-painting, and unexpected textures and prints.
Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
Kester Black, Another Pickle, Kester Black, kesterblack.com.au Raww, Give em’ pumpkin to talk about, Raww, rawwcosmetics.com CND Vinyl Lux, Rooftop Hop, Pacific Nail & Beauty, +61 7 5597 4555 Colour by TBN, Rain on my parade, Colour by TBN, +61 3 8544 8000 Miss Frankie, Hello Lover, Ardent Agency, Ilana@ardentagency.com.au Nails Inc, Gel Rehab, Style Patisserie, (02) 8095 8112 Nails Inc, 45 Second Top Coat, Style Patisserie, (02) 8095 8112 Nails Inc, Sun Street Passage, Style Patisserie, (02) 8095 8112 Miss Frankie, Take Me Off, Water-Based Aloe Nail Polish Wipes, Ardent Agency, email@example.com Gelly Fit,BT08 (Blue), gellyfitaus.com.au Gelly Fit, NE12 (Yellow), gellyfitaus.com.au Gelly Fit, BT12 (Plum), gellyfitaus.com.au Young Nails, 12 Piece Confetti Collection, Young Nails, 1300 766 121 Young Nails, YN Animal Print Transfer Foil, Young Nails, 1300 766 121
THE BEAUTY MEMO Makeup artist and founder of her self named Curtis Collection by Victoria, reveals the must-have items for the spring season ahead to Anita Quade.
THE NAKED GLOW A signature Curtis Collection look, all about glowing, luminous skin with our stunning Naked Glow. We have achieved this by using the following Curtis Collection key products. For a hydrated, radiant base apply Skin Refining Face Primer to the skin followed by one pump of Radiant Glow Illuminator. For a flawless complexion, apply Naked Glow CC Cream all over to correct and perfect the complexion, creating the ultimate no makeup, makeup look. Contour and sculpt using Illuminating Bronzer in Sun Goddess, Mineral Blush in Airess and Afterglow Highlighting Powder in Stardust. To plump and enhance brows naturally, apply Brow Tint with Fibres. Finish this look off with a soft nude lip featuring the best selling Vitamin C Lip Tint in Blushing.
MASTERCLASS THE BOMBSHELL This classic makeup look is all about old Hollywood glamour with a modern twist. Red lips, bronzed skin and runway worthy cheekbones. Red carpet glam at its best. The first step to achieving this silky smooth base is by applying Skin Refining Face Primer and Radiant Glow Illuminator to the skin followed by Matte Perfection Mineral Foundation and Full Coverage Concealer. Sculpt and highlight the cheekbones with Baked Bronzer in Island Goddess and Afterglow Highlighting Powder in Stardust. Define the eyes with our Champagne Nights Eyeshadow Palette and Extreme Volume Mascara. To create the perfect red pout, line the lips with Velvet Lip Liner in Rouge and Finish with Lipstick in Red Hot on top.
THE ROMANTIC This soft, romantic makeup look is ideal for any occasion. Create a dewy, polished complexion with our multimasking BB Cream! This acts as a primer, foundation, moisturiser and SPF. Pair this with Airbrush Finish Mineral Concealer and Baked Bronzer in Island Goddess for contour and highlight. For a bronzed glow all over, apply Sun Goddess Illuminating Bronzer on the cheeks, forehead and bridge of nose. Finish with Mineral Blush in Airess on the apples of the cheeks. Eyes feature Soft Nude Eyeshadow Palette and Glide on Gel Liner in Espresso. Brows defined with Brow Styler to frame the eyes and finally, enhance lips with Lipstick in Bebe Doll and Lip Plump in Seduction on top.
MASTERCLASS THE GOLDEN GODDESS This radiant, glowing look is all about dewy, sun kissed skin, warm golden hues, ultra highlighted cheekbones and soft nude pink lips. For a luminous base, Airbrush Finish Mineral Foundation offers a radiant, lightweight finish with flawless coverage. Conceal and highlight using our Airbrush Finish Mineral Concealer and set with Deluxe Mineral Powder Foundation. Lift and define those cheekbones with our Island Goddess Bronzer and add highlight all over with Sun Goddess Illuminating Bronzer. Apply Diamonds and Pearls highlighting dust along the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and cupids bow for the ultimate glow. To make the eyes pop, apply Bronze Sunset Eyeshadow Palette for a striking bronzed smokey eye. Define the brows with our Brow Styler and set in place with Brow Setting Gel. For the perfectly glossy nude pout Go Nude Lipstick on top to soften and blend. For fuller lips add Lip Plump in Obsession on top.
from THE SHOOT... Naked Glow CC Cream
Founder Curtis Collection by Victoria
Tell us about the new products in your range? “I am so excited about our product launches in 2021! We have expanded our Lip Collection this year and the new additions are already best sellers. Our most recent launch was our new Vitmain C Lip Tints. They are simply divine. Not only do they nourish and soothe the lips, they also impart the most gorgeous colour and shine. This product is available in 6 stunning shades, all of which have an inner core layer infused with Vitamin C, Jojoba and Avocado Oil. They leave your lips feeling, super hydrated and luscious. In the Eye Collection we have a new favourite - our latest launch, Waterproof Raincoat Mascara. This product is incredible! It lengthens, separates and makes your lashes look glossy, fuller and longer. It also holds them in place if you curl your lashes which is very important to me. We designed this with a flexible brush so that you can effortlessly get right to the base of the lashes, which creates a lengthening effect.”
Vitamin C Lip Tint – shade ‘Chic’
Radiant Glow Illuminator
Afterglow Highlighting Powder – shade ‘Sunset’
Lip Plump Gloss – shade ‘Young Love’
What is your favourite look out of this stunning collection? “The ‘Bombshell! My signature makeup look is always ultra glam, this makes me feel my best and has always been my style. I love the fact that this look represents Old Hollywood Glamour. Nothing beats a red lip, bronzed, glowing skin and luminosity! The look is striking, classic and will remain forever on trend.” Any can’t live without items? “I can simply cannot go past our Naked Glow CC Cream! This product is one of our stars and works for every woman and every skin type. It acts as a colour corrector that evens our your skin tone and offers SPF protection. It literally looks like your skin, only better! The perfect no makeup, makeup look. Natural, glowy and luminous. I also can not live without my Full Coverage Concealer. This is one of my favourite products in the collection. It covers dark circles in an instant and makes your eyes look brighter and cheekbones higher! Definitely a must have in every makeup collection.” What’s the secret to a great makeup range when there is so much choice on the market? “My priority has always been to create products that address beauty concerns that are common amongst women. We consider issues such as dry or dull skin, dark circles, pigmentation, rosacea, thin brows or uneven skin tone, and our goal is to formulate or design a product that targets these concerns and offer solutions through the use of good quality makeup products. They key is to identify a need or opportunity in the market and educate your customers on how your products can meet this need.” It has been a hard time for everyone in the industry again this year – how have you coped? “Thankfully our customers have been extremely loyal during this time. We have been so grateful for their ongoing support and love of the Victoria Curtis Cosmetics brand. We have, like most, had to adjust to these unprecedented times, however remaining positive and proactive has been our priority. Continuing to evolve and move with the times has been key. Online has been strong and therefore it is important to invest in technology that supports the customer experience… especially as this is now mostly from home.” www.curtiscollection.com.au
ANNOUNCED RVR90™ WINNERS It’s that time of year when the winners are announced for the annual Real Visible Results (RVR90) in 90 days campaign hosted by Ultraceuticals. Judges sifted through hundreds of submissions from a call to action to all salon partners who entered their most outstanding skin transformations. The much anticipated competition celebrates the work of skin therapists who are dedicated to changing client’s skin, along with the remarkable
results guests can achieve when they commit to a daily skin program such the range developed by Ultraceuticals founder Dr Geoffrey Heber. Heber and his expert panel selected a winner and two finalists from each category: Ultraceuticals Treatments and Ultraceuticals Treatments & Modalities. Professional Beauty reveals the results below:
WINNER ULTRACEUTICALS TREATMENTS CATEGORY BUOY SALON & SPA What does winning RVR90 Skin Challenge mean to you? First off, I still can’t believe I won! I don’t think I’ve ever won anything so I’m still in shock to be honest. Winning RVR90 to me just means I am on the right path, right journey, not only for myself but for my clients. I have always been so passionate about helping people achieve visible results in their skin journey and just helping them gain their self love and confidence back. Therapist: Cara Coronado
FINALIST Iris Skin and Beauty
Therapist: Brooke Thomson
FINALIST FLO. Cosmetic Medical Clinic Therapist: Flora Soliano
What has been the most rewarding part of the RVR90 journey? The most rewarding part of this journey is seeing very dramatic results. Because I have the right products, tools and support from my colleagues and mentors, I am able to help my clients achieve their skin goals. We have become partners in attaining their goals and even helped bring back and boost their confidence from within. What advice do you give other therapists considering the RVR90 challenge? Just do it! Don’t let your fear of failing triumph over the joy of participating! I was so nervous and almost didn’t enter cause I was doubting myself, but I’m very lucky to have such an amazing, supportive and encouraging team. You have to be confident and trust yourself and I think it pushes you to take your client’s skin journey to the next level to get amazing results. If it scares you, do it! Growth begins at the end of your comfort zone.
WINNER RVR90 3-MONTH OVERVIEW HOMECARE: • Ultra Brightening Foaming Cleanser • Ultra Clear Treatment Lotion • B2 Hydrating Serum • Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF 30 Mattifying • Ultra Hydrating Lotion • Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum Mild TREATMENTS: • Mini infusion. Infused Ultra Clear Treatment Lotion, Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum, Ultra Clear Purifying Mask • Customised Mandelic + Ultra Clear Treatment Lotion. Infused Ultra Clear Treatment Lotion, Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum, Ultra Clear Purifying Mask
WINNER ULTRACEUTICALS TREATMENTS WITH MODALITIES CATEGORY ANNETTE’S ELECTROLYSIS & BEAUTY CLINIC What does winning RVR90 mean to you? Winning RVR90 feels like getting a gold medal at the Olympics - a visual recognition of my learning and vast experience over more than 30 years as a therapist.
Therapist: Annette Buchanan
FINALIST Utopia Skin Solutions Therapist: Leanne Jones
FINALIST Embella & Co
Therapist: Jemma Svigos
What’s been your most rewarding part of the RVR90 journey? I enjoy the competitive side of RVR90 – a motivating challenge that keeps you learning. Seeing your client’s personality exploding with confidence, so rewarding. That’s what the beauty industry is about. What advice to you give other therapists considering the RVR90 skin challenge? Be ambitious, have confidence in Ultra and your abilities as a professional. Think outside the square and aim for the impossible. What’s your favourite Ultra product and treatment and why? The Queen of the Ultra range is how I describe my favourite Ultra product, Ultra Brightening Serum. Skin feels clean, bright, and luminous within a few days of use. I love A-Zyme but could not live without the Ultra sonophoresis machine. Ultra sono takes treatments to the next level and clients enjoy the experience. Relaxation plus results equals happy clients.
GEOFFREY HEBER, FOUNDER ULTRACEUTICALS Congratulations on another successful RVR90 activation – how was the response from around Australia? The feedback we’ve had from this year’s RVR90 program and awards has been great. We’ve had a record number of entries and on the whole they were very high quality. Our recent online RVR90 Awards Ceremony was very well attended and the feedback we had was really positive. How important is it to showcase the work of beauty therapists and the role of Ultraceuticals? Our skin therapists can see how their clients’ lives can be changed by using their skills and Ultraceuticals home care and treatments. They can also learn from the experience of others how they might improve themselves professionally. We have been told that the RVR90 program has raised the standard of the entire industry. You have dedicated your career to skincare and achieving real results - tell us about that journey and as a stand out moment for you? This could be a long story and there have been many standout moments. I have met many great people in the industry, both in Australia and overseas. It’s really uplifting to see how the brand has grown to be so well received and so important in the profession and the businesses of our skin therapists, in Australia and overseas. We have a fantastic team working for us now that is like a well-oiled machine.
WINNER RVR90 3-MONTH OVERVIEW HOMECARE: • Ultra Hydrating Milk Cleanser • Ultra Moisturiser Eye Cream • Ultra Even Skintone Smoothing Serum • Ultra Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF 30- Hydrating • Sun Active Face and Body Recovery Cream • Ultra Hydrating Skin Mist • Ultra B2 Hydrating Serum • Ultra Moisturiser Cream • Ultra Brightening Foaming Cleanser • Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum • Ultra Rich Moisturiser Cream • Ultra Replenishing Mask • Ultra C10 Firming Serum • Ultra Protective Antioxidant Complex • Ultra Brightening Moisturiser Cream • Ultra Dual Microfoliant TREATMENTS: • Signature Repair including LED • Intense Pulse Light/LED • Ultra A-Zyme Peel/ Brightening Accelerator mask • Micro/ Ultra A-Zyme/ customised mask
What was it that you were looking for from entrants in particular? We were looking for the client’s history – what they wanted to achieve from participating in the RVR90 journey. We then looked at the home care and treatments the therapist used to achieve the desired outcomes for the client. Ultraceuticals is about changing people’s lives so the feedback from the client and the therapist about how they felt about themselves in and after the program was very important for us. A picture tells a thousand words and the photos confirmed for us how well the therapists’ programs achieved results for their client’s skin. Frequently in the after photos you could actually see that the client’s mood was lifted compared to how they looked in the before photos. Can you share with us any hero Ultraceuticals products that stood out for clients during the 90 day competition? There were many great results for acne using both the Ultra Clear Treatment Lotion and Ultra A Perfecting products together. Ultra Mandelic treatments also added greatly to the results. Nearly everyone used the Ultra B2 Hydrating Serum. How challenging was it to conduct this during the lockdown? The part that was challenging was that our Growth & Development Partners (GDP’s) weren’t able in many cases to meet our therapists face to face to explain the program. Even so, our GDP’s had Zooms and phone calls to keep in touch and we really didn’t see adverse effects from the lockdown at all.
TALKING POINT 48
THE HI-TECH REVOLUTION Beauty technology advancements are developing at lightening speed. Anita Quade chats to industry leaders and salon owners about their latest investments in devices and formulas.
DERMALOGICA Tell us about the innovative technology in your latest product launch…
the skin, working to balance uneven skin tone and boost luminosity. • Hydrolyzed Beta Glucan - Detects and responds to moisture deficiencies, providing an increase in hydration levels, leaving skin softer, smoother and plumper.
Why is it a game changer?
Smart Response Serum also contains the following actives to support healthy skin:
“One of the key drivers in skin care today is personalisation coupled with innovative technology. Dermalogica has delivered on both fronts with the recent launch of the Smart Response Serum. It’s clinically proven to provide a personalised zone-byzone response with every application.”
“This intelligent serum reads your skin markers to deliver what the skin needs when it needs it. Its sophisticated SmartResponse Technology, is comprised of four smart actives, which addresses the four main skin concerns and provides four skin benefits in one: soothing, firming, brightening and hydrating. Imagine night or day your product responds to your needs; had spicey food for dinner and your skin is sensitised, active activated tick, you’ve been out at the beach all day and your melanin has been stimulated, tick, you’ve had a night with the air con on and your skins dehydrated, tick, your feeling stressed and your skin’s feeling flaccid and sensitive, tick, tick. This personalised, preventive response means the serum will respond to damage and changes in the skin even before being detected visually. Real science, real results and multiple benefits in one formula.”
• Olive Oil Ester, Lactic Acid, Squalane, and Microalgae - A rich blend of minerals that improve skin texture and support barrier protection. • Hyaluronic Acid - helps to improve the hydrating benefits and minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – Delivers additional moisturising and brightening benefits to the skin.
Key Smart Actives in the serum:
• Japanese Cornelia Cherry – Detects and responds to sensitivity, helping to keep skin calm and reduce redness. • Mannose-6-phosphate - Detects and responds to collagen weakness in the skin, helping to soften fine lines and wrinkles. • Hydrolyzed Wheat Flour - Detects and responds to the increased pigment in
Emma Hobson – Director of Education Asia Pacific, Dermalogica www.dermalogica.com.au
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOLUTIONS Tell us about your latest technology advancement…
“PBS first moved into the technology space approximately five years ago when we launched the UK designed and manufactured LED brand, Dermalux, to the Australian market. Not only have their devices provided our salon partners with extraordinary results for their clients, they have also provided incredible profits for their business. Realising what a difference technology can mean for a business (both in the results they can achieve, as well as profitability) we were excited when our relationship with Dermalux opened another door for PBS. After several years of revolutionising the LED space in Australia, the team at Dermalux introduced us to the equally amazing team at Lynton Lasers; The UK’s #1 laser & IPL manufacturer. The quality, integrity and reliability of Lynton’s equipment is founded on scientific research carried out by a group of PhD physicists working at The University of Manchester where Lynton Lasers Ltd was established in 1994. Similar to Dermalux, Lynton devices are also Medically CE Certified, which means they are clinically proven to treat an array of skin conditions. Their history of over 26 years in the UK market, coupled with the fact that they developed their technologies as academic projects means that they have taken the time to create something very unique and something you simply can’t find in a competitor’s brand of IPL or laser.”
Why is this a game changer to the industry?
“Lynton has spent the last 26 years developing and refining their IPL and Laser technology to make it a true leader in this space, in particular when it comes to their IPL and their Erbium Resurfacing Laser Technology.
SALON VIEW: ULTRA ESSENCE Tell us how you have utilised this technology?
“It took me over 12 months to decide on a new IPL device! The reason I choose Lynton Excelight IPL was firstly based on the medical-grade aesthetic technology plus the many awards that Lynton continues to win in the UK. Secondly, it was the trust I have in our BDM from Professional Beauty Solutions, along with the training and the support that I receive from the entire PBS team. The training and consistent communication has ensured that all our IPL treatments are getting optimum results. We’ve had IPL hair reduction previously in our salon but have welcomed the added skin rejuvenation, pigmentation, acne and vascular features that our new Lynton machine allows us to treat. I have been amazed at the results especially from the Lynton Illumi Facial which makes our entire team confident in recommending it to our clients. The machine is compact (great for our small salon), easy to use and as mentioned, the results are incredible…which makes the investment all the more worth it. “
To put it in simple terms, the technology in a Lynton IPL has been constructed to work more like a laser than a traditional IPL and features an unrivalled ability to manipulate their pulses into sub millisecond pulses. What this means is that the ability to achieve results that you might only expect to achieve with a high grade (and often very expensive) laser, can now be achieved with a Lynton IPL. This coupled with their fractional erbium lasers, which provide never before seen results in the aesthetic market, makes this a true game changer in the industry. Lynton’s ResurFACE Fractional Er:YAG Laser delivers unmatched resurfacing abilities, previously only available for doctors. This technology has been designed with safety first for both practitioners and clients and despite being a fractional ablative laser, it can still be provided as a ‘lunch break’ treatment. Salon owners are often faced with the unenviable choice between “superior quality, high performance” devices that they just can’t afford, and the “cheaper overseas” device that they can afford but simply doesn’t perform well enough to achieve successful client results. With the introduction of Lynton, it means they no longer need to choose! Lynton’s Excelight IPL and 3JUVE (which incorporates cosmetic laser resurfacing, IPL and radiofrequency) are both priced to offer the average salon, spa or clinic owner an extraordinary return on investment, but also designed to produce the kind of results you only see in equipment priced far higher.”
Lisa Williams – General Manager, Professional Beauty Solutions www.probeautysolutions.com.au
What is the client feedback on this advancement and how have you monetised this?
“The feedback on our Lynton IPL treatments from our guests has been overwhelmingly positive. Having a business in North Queensland, a huge concern for a lot of our guests is pigmentation. Prior to adding Lynton to our services, this was always a cringe moment for therapists if a guest expressed pigmentation as their main concern. Mainly because it’s such a long road to correcting and being able to get guests to commit to the long “in-spa” and “at-home” routine. It was also something that required a lot of consistent support and encouragement from our therapists. Of course, education is still a massive part of this process but the instant results we can now offer with no ‘down time’ (even at this higher price point) brings no hesitation to our guests as they continue to schedule these facial programs. The Lynton before and after images I have of my clients literally sell themselves.”
Karen Formosa – Manager, Ultra Essence www.ultraessence.com.au
SKINCEUTICALS Tell us about the innovative technology in your latest product launch…
“Six years in the making, this breakthrough oil-free Vitamin C antioxidant serum is specifically designed to provide advanced environmental protection for oily and blemish-prone skin. In addition to this environmental protection, Silymarin CF is clinically demonstrated to reduce oiliness, refine skin texture, and visibly improve skin clarity and fine lines. Silymarin CF contains a precise antioxidant combination of silymarin, pure vitamin C, and ferulic acid stabilised in a patentpending delivery system to improve the appearance of oily and blemish-prone skin and reduce visible signs of ageing: • 0.5% silymarin helps prevent oil oxidation • 1 5% pure vitamin C provides powerful antioxidant protection against skin-ageing free radicals • 0.5% ferulic acid enhances the stability and performance of vitamin C • 0.5% salicylic acid helps unclog pores and targets blemishes As a brand committed to in-vivo (live skin) proof, SkinCeuticals conducted multiple independent clinical studies to demonstrate Silymarin CF’s efficacy across key attributes in oily, blemish-prone, and ageing skin. Results demonstrate: • 16% reduction in oiliness1 • Up to a 76% reduction in oxidation of skin oils2 • 38% improvement in skin texture3 • 25% improvement in clarity3 • 24% improvement in fine lines3.”
Why is this a game changer in the industry?
“SkinCeuticals has identified a new opportunity in the application of topical antioxidants to help prevent oil oxidation. “The oxidative theory of ageing is well established in the scientific community. With this launch, we’re bringing the oxidative theory of blemish formation to light - the idea that oxidation can also lead to breakouts, specifically from oxidation of sebum,” said Leslie Harris, Global General Manager of SkinCeuticals. “Through six years of persevering research we have been able to develop a synergistic Vitamin C antioxidant formula for those with oily or blemish-prone
skin so they can confidently incorporate a Vitamin C into their skincare regimen. It features silymarin, a potent antioxidant derived from the milk thistle plant, demonstrated to help inhibit oil oxidation.”
Leslie Harris – Global General Manager of SkinCeuticals www.skinceuticals.com.au
SALON VIEW: BRISBANE SKIN Tell us how you have utilised this technology?
• Silymarin CF offers a solution to blocked pores that many of my patients have been calling out for. • 90% of the world’s population will suffer from some level of acne and blemishes, and many are looking for an effective, nonprescription solution to add to their skincare routine. • Silymarin CF is a daily oil-free formula that reduces oiliness, while refining skin texture, and improving skin clarity. By targeting oil oxidation, Silymarin CF is like no other product that currently exists in the market and responds to a need that will be welcomed by many.
• “Silymarin CF contains a comprehensive formula that has been scientifically proven to reduce free radical damage caused by oil oxidation; the vitamin C antioxidant serum not only reduces oiliness and blemishes, it also helps in improving the visible signs of aging.
Dr Shobhan Manoharan, Brisbane Skin www.brisbaneskin.com.au
FRESHA Tell us about your latest device…
“Since we first introduced our fully-integrated contactless payment solution, Pay by Link, Fresha’s payment processing offering has become increasingly responsive to the demands of running a modern-day salon or spa. Our Fresha card terminals offer a quick, safe and simple solution to taking payments that work seamlessly with our software. And with no monthly rental charges or hidden fees, you’ll only ever pay for what you use with our lowest rate fees per transaction. By creating a truly seamless checkout experience that manages your transactions alongside your calendar, you can reduce the amount of time spent manually adding up payments from a separate system to make sure they match your reports. Keep your business running smoothly and your clients happy with our completely cashless payment solution, and start growing your revenue now.”
Why is this a game changer to the industry?
“The COVID-19 pandemic has accelerated demand among beauty and wellness businesses across the globe for online bookings and integrated card payments. These are now seen as essential to run any modern-day salon or spa in a timely and cost effective way. Our market-leading payment processing solution goes far beyond taking payments. We offer financial protection by securely capturing client card details on file and giving salons the option of charging clients who cancel late or don’t show up. Businesses that adopt our payment systems have found they have more time to focus on running their business and looking after their clients.”
William Zeqiri - Founder and CEO, Fresha www.fresha.com
SALON VIEW: AESTHETIC ARTISTRY Tell us how you have utilised this technology?
“I was warned that Fresha didn’t have the features that other platforms have. Fresha has the exact same, if not more and it doesn’t have a monthly subscription fee. It’s a risk free option and when you’re first starting a business you always look for the risk free platforms that will benefit your growth, not hinder it with fees. I switched to Fresha’s payment processing solution because my account manager told me I was paying two sets of fees - one for my eftpos, and one for Fresha whenever a sale went through. I had no idea this was happening until they alerted me and ever since then every transaction I process is exclusive to Fresha. Before Fresha I did not have an online booking system, only eftpos. Now I can process my payments and manage my calendar all in one place for a single, low rate fee per transaction.”
What is the client feedback on this advancement and how have you monetised this? “Since we started managing our bookings and processing all of our payments through Fresha, our clients find it easier than ever
to book and manage their appointments online and pay for their services using a completely contactless payment system. The builtin cancellation protection policy helps protect my business and generate revenue even if a client cancels late or doesn’t show up. By switching all of my payments to Fresha, I no longer have to spend time manually adding up payments and calculating fees for two separate payment systems, and can spend more time focusing on what matters – my clients.”
Tijan Emir-Ali, owner of Aesthetic Artistry www.aestheticartistryskin.com
MADE IN AUSTRALIA FOR AUSTRALIAN CONDITIONS
• SPF 50+ broad spectrum for very high UV protection • Velvet finish – non greasy • Skin friendly formulation for all skin types ww ea ah
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DERMAVIDUALS Tell us about your latest technology advancement…
“EXCEED, distributed by derma aesthetics, is a medical microneedling device clinically proven to visibly reduce wrinkles & treat acne scarring, in particular, to reduce the depth of scars and to normalise the skin structure. The EXCEED medical microneedling device is equipped with a unique tilting needle plate that adapts to the surface and contours of the facial landscape to ensure perpendicular needle penetration and minimal epidermal trauma. The creation of controlled microchannels created at varying depths of the skin tissue, instigates the regeneration of skin cells via cell to cell communication and the natural process of healing. Awakening the fibroblast that lies deep within the dermis, allows for healthy collagen to be produced resulting in a more youthful and refined skin texture. The gentle stimulus provided by medical microneedling is considered far more effective in treating a variety of skin concerns more so than other more invasive and expensive skincare treatments. The EXCEED medical microneedling device utilises exclusive and patented microneedle cartridges, guaranteeing sterility. These disposable needle cartridges have a safety membrane to prevent backflow of liquids and ensure no risk of contamination to the handpiece. This allows for both operator and client safety every time. The small cartridge head, containing 6 x 32 gauge needles, allows the aesthetician/practitioner to carefully treat all contours of the treatment area. Adjustable speed & needle depth allows precise control of up to 900 microchannels per second depending on skin density & condition.”
SALON VIEW: THE CLEAR SKIN EXPERTS Tell us how you have utilised this technology?
“I first became aware of the EXCEED device in Germany in 2019 whilst at the sixth International Symposium on Corneotherapy. I have been utilising rolling devices and pens for around 10 years and I have seen the dramatic acceleration of technology in the last few years. I was drawn to EXCEED as we specialise in acne and acne scarring and to know that it is TGA and FDA approved for scar revision was really appealing. When I first started using the device, I was really impressed with how quiet it was in comparison to devices I had been previously using and also how confident I felt as a therapist.
How do you use the device?
“The way that we utilise EXCEED is a tried and tested protocol. Firstly, we repair the barrier with dermaviduals, LED and home rolling devices. We also make sure that our clients don’t have
Why is this a game changer to the industry?
“The EXCEED medical microneedling device is a game-changer not only because of its ability to deliver superior results but also for its unsurpassed safety and ultimate client comfort. At derma aesthetics, we believe in customising treatments for individual skins to achieve optimal skin health. Working with the EXCEED medical microneedling device allows for adjustable speed from 100 to 150 hertz. This adjustable speed allows the aesthetician/ practitioner to take full control of their clients’ treatments. Along with adjustable speed, the aesthetician/practitioner has the ability to work with varying depths meaning that they can create the ultimate experience for their client each and every time.”
Why is education key?
“The education provided to EXCEED practitioners sets them up for clinical success. The EXCEED medical microneedling course not only deep dives into both the theory and practical components of microneedling, but includes essential learnings on skin health and function. The EXCEED medical microneedling course is perfect for any aesthetician/practitioner that works with a microneedling/ collagen induction therapy device, no matter the brand and is now available virtually on derma aesthetics’ Education Hub.”
Lisa Paone, Head of Education, derma aesthetics dermaviduals.com.au
nutritional deficiencies of collagen co-factors such as iron and zinc. We then have a Collagen Induction Therapy Discovery session, to ensure our clients are really educated and confident leading up to their first treatment. We have experienced remarkable results for acne scarring and post inflammatory pigmentation.”
How have you monetised this treatment?
“Our clients understand that EXCEED is the pinnacle of their journey with us, and they get so excited to reach this milestone! Usually we are working with them for at least 2-3 months prior to the treatment. They feel a real sense of achievement once we start their CIT journey. It is actually transformative for them. So, if you can imagine a clinic that is booked out 4-8 weeks in advance, with 80% of its clientele transitioning into an EXCEED treatment – it’s an extremely vital part of our business model. Our clients understand that it is a premium treatment, with premium pricing.
Asha Evertsz, Director & Founder of The Clear Skin Experts www.theclearskinexperts.com.au
CYNOSURE Please tell us about your latest technology advancement…
“I am excited to announce that Cynosure Australia extended our body contouring and focal fat reduction portfolio, with the launch of LIPOcel®, a non-invasive fat reduction HIFU system. LIPOcel is a state-of-the-art non-invasive, non-surgical treatment for focal fat reduction and precision body contouring; treating the flanks, stomach, arms, knees and back of thighs. LIPOcel’s high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) destroys fat cells without damaging peripheral tissue resulting in circumferential reduction.”
Why is this a game changer to the industry?
With high power and contact cooling this technology provides impressive results; 20 to 40% Reduction*. With various depth cartridges allowing for multiple treatment areas, LIPOcel can treat areas such as abdomen, flanks, biceps, triceps, inner thigh, posterior thigh, and more! For focal fat reduction and precision body contouring, it has multiple advantages:
CLINIC VIEW: ELITE BODY CONTOURING Tell us how you have utilised this technology?
“The industry has changed over the last few years - it’s not just stubborn fat that people want to shift anymore, they want to tighten the skin and they want the most dramatic results they can achieve in the least amount of time and fewest treatment sessions as possible. Elite Body Contouring was the first clinic in Australia to introduce LIPOcel into our Clinics as we noticed a trend overseas of using HIFU technology as a non-invasive solution for both fat reduction and skin tightening within the same session. After experiencing first-hand the limitations of older technology such as Cavitation (which only shrinks fat cells), and Cryolipolysis “Fat Freezing” (which reduces fat but has little to no effect on skin elasticity), we looked at LIPOcel as the ideal solution as it provides us with the ability to not only target larger areas of the body within the same session, but it also allows us to truly customise and tailor our treatments to our clients’ concerns for both fat reduction and skin tightening!”
• Minimal discomfort – Chill cartridge: The chill cartridge cools skin to a comfortable 5 degrees • No downtime – Resume your daily routine: The epidermis remains safe as the HIFU energy penetrates to 1.3cm within the fat layer • Fast treatments – 5 to 45 minutes**: No numbing is required, therefore treatment zones can be completed sooner • Low running cost – 6 months unlimited cartridge utilisation “Every day we see an increasing number of consumers striving for fat reduction in those hard to reach stubborn areas. LIPOcel®, is now able to address these concerns in a safe, swift and effective way.” * Data on file. ** Treatment times vary depending on cartridge size, treatment area and condition of the patient.
Paul Vujevic, Managing Director of Cynosure Australia www.cynosureaustralia.com
One of the main advantages of LIPOcel would be the collagen boosting and skin tightening benefits, and the fact that it truly is a 2-in-1 treatment, delivering fast results. Additionally, LIPOcel is the only HIFU device for the body that has patented contact cooling, allowing for higher delivery of energy, whilst protecting the surface of the skin from the high temperatures, resulting in far superior results.”
What is the client feedback on this incredible advancement?
“LIPOcel is not only virtually painless with none of the side effects associated with other technology (such as bruising and discomfort), but there is also no down time or massage required post-treatment! Our clients are loving the results, with the majority noticing 5-15% of the full effect immediately post treatment! We put these fast results down to HIFU being able to metabolise the dead fat cells faster than older devices, combined with the tightening effect of HIFU. (It’s important to note however that results may vary from person to person and an in-clinic consultation with a trained professional is always advised prior to treatment to assess suitability and to allow for a tailored treatment program to be developed). Clients also love how customisable the treatment is given that we can increase the intensity and decrease the energy output according to their comfort levels, making this treatment suitable for those who may not be able to tolerate the discomfort from other treatments.”
How does it work?
“LIPOcel targets the subcutaneous layer of fat known as the “stubborn, hard to shift” fat below the skin and above the muscle and heats it to 65-75 degrees which causes fat cell necrosis. The dead fat cells in the targeted area are then disposed of naturally through the body’s waste system (the liver and lymphatic system) gradually from day one, up until 12-weeks post treatment. This gradual removal of fat from the body places no strain on the body’s waste system.
Danielle Smith, Founder & Managing Director Elite Body Contouring www.elitebodycontouring.com.au
BLOCKS One of the biggest questions for salons wanting to build a business around hightech treatments is the cost of acquisition. Chloe Machin who launched I Am Beauty Body Studio in 2020, has had to navigate uncharted economic territory impacted by closures and uncertainty with her brand. She spoke to Ruby Feneley about how to decide on the right technology and pricing structure to get optimal returns.
How important is finding the right beauty technology for your business, and how have you decided on what to range? “For us, the concept and positioning of the business lay in specialised, forward-thinking aesthetic innovation so it was paramount to align with leading beauty technology partners. We needed the best beauty technology specialists – but as a small, start-up business we also wanted to ensure we had the best possible ongoing clinical and educational support for staff from our brand partners. I resonate strongly with the notion that knowledge is power, and so while it was a priority to seek out hi-tech treatments and systems systems we also wanted to work with a technology partner that was equally as passionate about enriching the business owners and staff with knowledge. 2020 was a defining moment for beauty technology and along with the many adjustments and pivots the beauty industry has had to make, personalisation has been one of the most crucial areas of development for business owners. Our main treatment modality and offering at I Am Beauty Body Studio, is based on a completely bespoke treatment - as such it was paramount that our technology system catered to the desire of individual customisation. Not only are we passionate about providing our clients with state-of-the-art treatments, but our personal and business integrity rests upon knowing that the capability of the treatment systems are effective. I personally trial all technology systems before committing - an admittedly luxurious and unconventional approach to market research! However it has become an instrumental element in shortlisting our technology range and treatment offerings.”
There are costs associated with ranging more advanced technologies – how has offering advanced treatments helped you build your business and bottom line? “From the early conception days of I Am Beauty Body Studio, we made a firm decision never to skimp on the expense of any of our equipment.
Innovation and beauty technology is our business model and so we curated a space and beauty offerings in line with our values and intention to seek out the very best technology and equipment to use in-studio. So, we reverse-engineered our business model around our intention to become the leading pre-wedding specialist using non-invasive innovative beauty technology. Setting this intention and upholding this value has definitely been risky from a financial perspective. As a practical example: we range some of the leading saunas on the market and were intent on understanding the sustainability efforts made in harvesting the materials sourced by those companies. Going through this process saw our initial first-choice, one that was cost-efficient and effective, became our last, and our start-up budget for the full-spectrum infrared sauna increased three-fold. While that meant our treatment prices had to increase slightly we feel that this is something our clients care about, and are 100% confident in saying that we made a list of conscious decisions to make sure that we can stand behind the results and values of the technologies we offer. We apply the same ideology and intent when researching and purchasing our crystals, which we also categorise as beauty technology, although a slightly more unconventional and holistic type! There is a consistent standard for every component of the business.”
Why have you decided on a lease/buy/payper-use model for your business and what do you feel the benefits of this have been? “We decided to buy and pay off our equipment over 24 months and while the decision to open a beauty business during the current financial climate has not provided the most harmonious setting for a start-up operation, we are comfortable with our financial commitment. We were able to negotiate a 12-week interest-free payment when we initially purchased our equipment. I find that often, concessions can be made in terms of payment when buying top of the range equipment and I would definitely encourage anyone to always ask! Making weekly payments on our primary technology devices keeps us motivated to reach our KPI’s and keep pushing forward.” n
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Plasma PenTM by Louise Walsh International is one of the most advanced non-invasive, nitrogen plasma devices on the market. German engineered and designed, Plasma Pen delivers next-generation plasma delivery, making it the number one solution for aesthetics and medical professionals worldwide.
What can you treat? • Excess Eye Bags & Eye Lids • Crow’s Feet • Lip & Forehead Lines • Crepey Neck & Decollete • Pigmentation • Skin Tags • Milla/Syringamas • Warts - Flatterned & Raised • Moles
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BEAUTY BLACK BOOK
Lisa Eldridge is one of the world’s most famous and respected makeup artists. She’s also something of cosmetics historian, having penned her bestseller Face Paint: The Story of Makeup in 2015 and released BBC television documentary series Makeup: A Glamorous History earlier this year. She chats to Ruby Feneley about the rapid pace of beauty innovation, getting started as a makeup artist and working with cosmetic formulators to make the dream makeup kit a reality. A short history of luxury: “There is so much to say about this subject. If we look at the provenance of certain kohl ingredients that came in and out of fashion during the Egyptian dynasties, or how ‘Venetian’ ceruse (although very similar to ceruse sourced from anywhere else) had cache and desirability, you can really understand how the notion of ‘being the best’ has always appealed to human nature. That is why luxury, quality and desirability continue to thrive in the industry today. Ever since I stumbled across a box of my mum’s old makeup at my grandmother’s house when I was six years old, I’ve been fascinated by the stories that makeup can tell. When I put makeup onto someone’s face, I understand there’s a long and intricate story behind every item I use. Whether it’s the 40,000-year history of rouge of the 2,000-year history of eyeshadow. Before I got a book deal, I had 10 years’ worth of research on my laptop, so I’m so pleased that people seem to be as fascinated by the subject as I am! That book has become an international bestseller that’s been produced in over 10 different languages. The idea of luxury today is changing fast – now it’s more tied up with ideas of authenticity, true vision and sustainability. I believe customers are looking for something more meaningful and thoughtful.”
The technology behind Lisa Eldridge cosmetics: “I’ve held Creative Director and product development positions for many of the world’s
top brands. I have an in-depth, inside-out knowledge of how the business works – and I’ve been able to learn how makeup is made, marketed and sold, while understanding how the ways in which perceptions of beauty differ throughout the world. Ever since I first stepped into a cosmetic lab (for Shiseido in Japan 1999) the production of makeup is something that has captivated me in a way I never thought it would. I’ve seen first-hand that the creativity in cosmetics labs is just mind blowing. The imagination and originality that goes into the science behind makeup is equal to the creativity of the art you can create with the product. After 20 years I now have a comprehensive knowledge of cosmetic chemistry, and I’m as interested in the science, technology and history of makeup as I am going on a shoot and pulling colours out of kit and daubing them onto a face. There is a lot of care and attention to detail in everything I produce, I have very high standards and I’m very exacting!”
The inspiration behind Lisa Eldridge Cosmetics: “The process behind products always starts with months (sometimes years) of research. I’m a huge geek when it comes to art, culture, science and history, and so in the research phase, finding inspiration and brainstorming ways to make sure my ideas are fresh and modern is one of my favourite parts of the process. I like pushing the boundaries, I never want to do something that’s been done before. When I was creating my lipsticks, I had a dream that I was doing someone’s makeup using lipsticks made from velvet. I was so inspired by the dream that I did an editorial shoot with Teen Vogue using real velvet fabric instead of lipstick. The pictures looked fantastic – but it wasn’t very comfortable for the model! I always had that in mind, I always wondered if it would be possible to create a lipstick like the one in my dream. When it came to production, I knew exactly what I wanted the formula to look and feel like. We had to go back to the drawing board a couple of times, but eventually managed to create a brand-new mould using groundbreaking technology, which enabled the creation of my ‘first to market’ “true” velvet texture. One of the most satisfying parts was seeing the look on people’s faces when they saw the product. They always say ‘wow’ and ‘how?’ I knew I had made something special. I also put a lot of work into undertones of each
shade. To the untrained eye a lipstick may look red, but where that shade would traditionally have blue undertones, I’ve added orange or terracotta or pink. I call them my secret pigments! That’s what gives the shades their chameleon quality, which is what I’m most proud of and what sets them apart.”
and protective qualities so feels exceptionally comfortable to wear. Having worked on countless faces over the years I know that areas of the face we like to highlight can be problematic - the last thing we want to draw attention is fine lines around the upper cheek area or pigmentation, texture and pores. It made sense to create something that imparts glow and helps to treat the skin.”
“With the packaging, people often ask me why I didn’t choose to use vintageinspired packaging for my own makeup line, but the items in my collection are from brands who created something new for the era. To explain, I don’t collect 1930s brands that were inspired by Victorian-looking makeup. What I love most about the pieces is that they were forward-thinking for their era, which is why they’ve stood the test of time. So, when it came to creating my line, I wanted the packaging to feel quality, chic and modern. I also didn’t set out with my packaging to make it feel luxury or any one way. I want my products to feel authentic to me, and that they’re products I would genuinely want to use myself, on my clients and in my kit. As a makeup artist, I’m lucky that I have a lot of willing clients who I can test my products on, so I can really see how they come to life on different skin textures and tones, and how they work with other products in my kit. All that testing is hopefully something that comes across when people use the products for themselves.”
“I’ve seen how technology is changing in the beauty industry – the things we can now do with textures and formulas is truly ground-breaking. I always want to ensure that my products are backed by science and innovative ingredients. I first discovered Filmexcel, one of the ingredients in my Elevated Glow Highlighter, quite a few years ago and I was determined to include it in my first complexion launch. It’s a brilliantly clever, film-forming bio polymer that gives a sculpted and lifted effect to the skin – but also has hydrating
In 2017 Lisa Eldridge became locked in a bidding war at Christies over a very special item – a 18k gold and sapphire lipstick holder, created by Cartier for Audrey Hepburn. Lisa Eldridge eventually beat out a mystery Michigan based bidder, acquiring a slice of Hepburn-history for 56,250 pounds. She said of the bidding war: “My heart was beating out of my chest. I nearly fell over when I got off the phone, I was shaking, I was cold, I was hot.” When she collected the case from Christies, she was shocked to find it contained the remnants of Hepburn’s signature shade – a true salmon pink worn in the iconic film Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Eldridge says she’ll take the brand name “to the grave.”
Diversity in the industry: “Diversity is a huge issue, and modern beauty plays a very tangible role in creating a more inclusive world. In my book, I delve into the role that makeup has played in women’s history - it really reflects the social, cultural, economic and political movements of the time. Today, there’s a true sense of people questioning and challenging stereotypical notions of beauty. It’s so much easier to find a wider spectrum of genders, ethnicities, religions, sizes and ages represented than it was even five years ago. We also need to think beyond visual representation. Having launched my own brand, there is no way I would create a product that wasn’t fully inclusive – I have always shot my lipstick collection on a range of beautiful models to see how their undertones come to life on different skin tones. The shades are for everyone and that’s really the bare minimum of what the beauty industry as a whole should be doing today. Customers are finally calling out brands that don’t consult and represent properly, and those voices are powerful – brands have no choice but to listen and take action.” n
Melanie Grant has made a name for herself bringing hightech treatments to the denizens of Sydney, Melbourne, LA and Paris. In this interview she explains to Ruby Feneley why amidst rapid developments in beauty technologies, caution is one of the most powerful tools in a beauty therapists arsenal. As a beauty journalist, it’s hard to conduct an interview in August 2021 without discussing the impacts of COVID-19. Beauty businesses worldwide are grappling with the ramifications of Delta, and the impact of rolling lockdowns. As I speak with Melanie Grant, she has just finished a meeting with the American Board of Cosmetology as they prepare for a shutdown in LA. The Row, located below the Melanie Grant Studio in Melrose Place has just reported an entire team of staff members infected with Delta, and for the second year in a row Melanie is preparing to close shop. Like many in the beauty industry, Melanie feels frustrated by blanket policy decisions made around beauty businesses. “We’re the first to close and the last to open,” she says over the phone, “it is frustrating when you see restaurants and cafés with hundreds of people packed in opening before beauty salons, where we’re seeing clients one on one and already operating with strict hygiene protocols.”
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Like many salon owners she’s feeling the pressure of trying to support multiple teams through lockdown – “my staff have kids and mortgages – I do have sleepless nights.” But we’re not here to discuss COVID, we’re here to discuss another force for change that is shaping the future of the industry – emerging technologies and the short- and long-term ramifications they have for businesses.
A brave new world: When Melanie started in beauty, she instantly gravitated towards high-tech treatments. “I graduated in 1999,” she reflects, “within two years of that, I had started working with laser and IPL.” Melanie was inspired by the transformative results these treatments were providing for clients suffering pigmentation, rosacea and dyschromia. But over the years Melanie has learnt to be cautious. “In beauty, so much of the ‘latest and greatest is all about marketing,” she says - and the truth behind that marketing can be alarming. She recalls, “When Fraxel brought out their dual – the 1927 Wavelength – it was marketed for melasma, reps were really pushing it as a treatment for pigmentation. Of course, it bulk heated and made things worse.” Examples like this have made Melanie wary of treatments that seem “too good to be true” or are brand new to the market. “I know its frustrating for staff and distributors, but I’ll often wait for a year!” she confesses. She also believes in old-fashioned, in-person training. While online learning, particularly during COVID, has provided convenience for business owners and staff wanting to upskill Melanie has her doubts about whether it will ever replace the value of in person. She explains: “Companies will say they have the most complex and amazing virtual training sessions, but personally I need to see the treatment performed in person, and I want my staff to have a certificate at the end of it – I really feel there are still some things that can’t be done online.”
Operating at the cutting edge: In 2019 QBE released their “SMEs and Insurance Report” in which they surveyed over 600 Australian small and medium sized businesses. The report found that 62% of small businesses were under insured. The report noted that rapidly scaling businesses, like salons adopting high-tech treatments in a bid to extend their menu and client base, were being left vulnerable. The report advised business owners to stay in touch with insurance brokers as they scale to ensure their insurance matches their evolving business models. Melanie believes that with new treatment technologies available to salons, many businesses are unknowingly operating underinsured. She guesses at this based on the skyrocketing cost of her own insurance, and the pricing structures observed at some salons. She says, “if you don’t have a doctor on-sight and you’re performing any skin penetration, your insurance will go through the roof.” This is a cost that
is passed on to the customer. Any salon charging mid-to top-tier prices will know the pain of fielding question (that sound more like accusations) from clients reporting having received the same service elsewhere for a fraction of the cost. Melanie Grant knows this better than others. She says, “I don’t feel the need to point out that they’re sitting on a $40,000 couch, or that we have a full Biologique Recherche back bar. That’s my choice. It just means we’re just not for everyone and I’m okay with that.” However, she does feel strongly about the “race to the bottom” she’s observed as salons competing to appeal to clients’ pocketbooks are not able to provide safety. Discounting the cost of “beautiful French tea” and top of the range skincare Melanie says her most significant expense is insurance. She’s frank: “I know what my insurance bill is, and $100.00 for a facial is not going to cover it. It won’t cover cartridges on the device!” And when clients go cheap and businesses cut corners, it can be hard to witness the outcomes. She recounts: “Right before Christmas in Sydney, we saw a client who had the worst burns I had ever seen from laser hair removal. Her whole Brazilian and all down the inside of one leg had burned.” The woman had been treated at what Melanie regarded as a reputable clinic; they had advised the client to apply a cold compress. Melanie says, “I was looking at second-degree burns that required antibiotics and medical wound dressing” – a trip to the hospital, in other words. As she’s said in countless interviews, when customers buy cheap, they buy twice - and often more when they turn to businesses like Melanie Grant’s to correct the damage.
Education: A growing issue for the salon industry, touched on in our Mind the Gap report, is lack of training around different skin tones. Melanie says “I think what’s often missing is multiculturalism in aesthetic practice.”
While some attention is paid in most therapy courses, Melanie doesn’t feel it’s sufficient. She says “The Fitzpatrick scale is ticked off in training, but I see skin types treated aggressively and inappropriately constantly.” Melanie says when entering a consult, it’s important not to go by first impressions – don’t be afraid to enquire about ethnic background. She explains, “I always ask – I’ll usually get an odd look and a ‘why?’ but even if you have green eyes and blonde hair, if you’re half Lebanese, I will treat your skin differently, if you have blonde hair and blue eyes but you’re a quarter Chinese, I’ll treat your skin differently – because you’re at much higher risk of hyper pigmenting than someone with a similar skin tone, but Celtic background.” Melanie feels the beauty education system needs to account for the diversity of the Australian population. She says, “We are not just a Caucasian nation, there needs to be better education and better training.” She has seen disastrous results from everything from laser and plasmage (the latter of which Melanie is yet to implement in studio) to traditional treatments like microdermabrasion. In fact, one of the worst cases she saw was from extractions. One of her clients, a high profile Chinese model, had booked a major campaign. Melanie couldn’t squeeze her in. She says: “Her agency sent her somewhere else, and they performed extractions even though she had flawless, twelve-year-old looking skin. When she came into us, her skin was raw, scarred and sore – it took about three months to heal with multiple rounds of genesis to break down the pigment. I told her you can never let anyone squeeze your skin!”
A culture of accountability: In a world where the results that can be achieved in salon are more competitive than ever, the risk is also greater. Melanie says beauty businesses need to accept that things can, and will, go wrong. She says, “Whether you’re a doctor, a nurse, a dermal therapist or beauty therapist there is always a chance something will go wrong with a client. When you’re working with lasers and strong chemicals, you need to accept there is always risk.” Prevention is of course better than cure – but practitioners need to be prepared for worst case scenarios. “Don’t dismiss or downplay your clients concerns – telling them ‘you’ve never seen this before’ wont make the problem go away!” Instead she suggests inviting the client in to have a look. “Even if you think it’s just a scab from the laser – I say get them in and under a whitelight, because what they’ve said over the phone may be worse in person. And if it isn’t, they’ll feel heard and reassured and you’ll have peace of mind.” And what if something has gone seriously wrong?. Melanie says acknowledge, be honest, and outline a treatment plan: “I would say ‘it looks like we’ve overtreated, or the setting was too high for you. We need to get you to a doctor and on some antibiotics, then in a week or so, we will have you back for LED and start corrective treatments.” Ultimately, she feels that while the technology on offer is exciting for therapists and can lead to better client and staff satisfaction, salons need to accept risk and responsibility. “Ultimately, she says, when you take a laser or anything to someone’s face, it’s on you,” she says, “I always say, if there’s any doubt, there’s no doubt.” n
MELANIE’S TIPS FOR COVERING YOUR BUSINESS: • When implementing a new device, check how it stacks up against your insurance plan • When it comes to aftercare, there’s no such thing as too much: “When you’ve seen clients go to the beach after Fraxel, you learn not to expect they won’t know not to pick their skin. I have a waiver for treatments as mild as microdermabrasion,” says Melanie. • Consultation: don’t be shy to ask about cultural heritage, this will allow you to deliver clients their best results – and minimize risk. • If clients have concerns: assess in person, they may not understand the extent of the damage • If something has gone wrong: Acknowledge, address and outline a plan.
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Mind the gap:
HAS THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY MISSED THE DIVERSITY MEMO? In recent years the cosmetics industry has seen an explosion of inclusive brands, but the professional services industry is lagging. Ruby Feneley investigates how shortcomings in dermatological research are filtering to the salon floor.
IN 2018 BEAUTY journalist Baze Mpinja wrote of the puzzling gap between retail cosmetics and professional beauty: "I'm sitting pretty on a mountain of dark-brown foundations," she wrote, "but I hope the momentum spreads to the dermatologist's office." Baze noted that just like cosmetics, non-invasive skin procedures have been around for decades. But many of the most common treatments simply aren't options for women of colour. Beauty technologies that remove hair, deeply resurface texture and eliminate pigmentation target shade variation in the skin. Historically, they haven’t been sophisticated enough to differentiate between healthy, and hyperpigmented areas (or hair follicles) in deeper skin-tones. Furthermore, most lasers and many beauty devices use concentrated heat to destroy pigment or stimulate collagen. Deeper skin tones evolved in locations close to the equator where melanin was
produced to protect the skin from heat and sunlight. Because of this mechanism, when heat is applied to the skin, melanin rushes to the surface, darkening the treatment area – the reverse of what patients seeking treatment for pigmentation and textural irregularities want (Bluestone Centre for Clinical and Scientific Research, Scientific Report, 2017). To make matters worse - skin with a higher melanin count is more likely to scar – meaning the ramifications for overtreatment are harder to reverse. Melanocytes release melanin at the injury site – skin penetration as mild as a bug bite or squeezed pimple can result in post-inflammatory pigmentation that is slow to fade. Breakouts, pigmentation, and injuries caused by aggressive treatments, from lasers to skin needling and extractions are much harder to heal and correct in African, Asian and South Asian skin than they are in Northern European complexions.
Uncommon Knowledge: So if all of this is understood, why isn’t the beauty therapy industry catering to people of colour? Simply, it is not common knowledge. Beauty therapists approach skin from their understanding of dermatological principles – and the dermatological community has been woefully behind on this issue. Dr. Michelle Rodrigues is a Melbourne-based dermatologist specialising in skin of colour. Michelle is an international expert in the field working with world-renown pigment and skin of colour centres across Europe, Asia, and the United States, and holding council membership for the Asian Society for Pigment Cell Research and Vitiligo Association of Australia. Her passion for advocacy started when she attended medical school. As a student of Anglo-Indian background she was alarmed to find that teaching in the area was "minimal to none." She explains:
U.S. Department of Homeland Security recommended at the federal technology's standards conference last October that the Fitzpatrick scale be abandoned due to its poor representation of diverse populations. As Melanie Grant pointed out, skin tone is an unreliable indicator of skin type – and this is an issue Australian practitioners should be paying attention to. In the last Australian census, just over 50% of Australian's identified AngloEuropean background and 3.9% Chinese - however, 15% of Australian's identified as "other." These statistics indicate a large percentage of the population has mixed cultural heritage or non-European background (The Guardian, “Labour MP calls for questions on race and ethnicity to be added to census,” 2019).
The Fitzpatrick fallacy:
The increased accessibility of powerful salon tech is exciting for salons and beauty therapists – delivering client results comparable to those achieved in a clinic and building client base and profitability. But adverse client outcomes pose risks to business and the industry as a whole. In 2019 influencer IamLindaelaine shared a video with her 186,000 Youtube subscribers in which she recounted a terrible experience with Fraxel laser. With Mexican and Jamaican heritage, Linda has medium-deep skin. She said she had no skin issues at the time, but a beauty therapist convinced her that the treatment would make her skin "even better." The Fraxel treatment was disastrous. It resulted in depigmentation, hyperpigmentation, and over a month of confinement for Linda. She also noted the vulnerability clients have regarding their appearance and that beauticians may not realise the level of influence they wield. She said, "Insecurities are real, and if people play on your insecurities, it's easy for them to manipulate. I think she wanted someone who looked like me doing a review of her treatments." Linda said that while she’s used herself as a beauty guinea pig "it's very different when you are the guinea pig for someone who isn't dealing with the consequences."
One of the most common methodologies beauty therapists will be exposed to during training is the Fitzpatrick’s scale. This system segments skin into six categories based on propensity to burn, from Type I (very fair) to Type VI (Deeply pigmented dark brown to black). This scale is used as a shorthand by beauty therapists and dermatologists globally when triaging patients and clients. Beauty therapists are recognising the limitations of the scale as applied to emerging technologies – and an increasingly diverse customer base. In our Salon Profile interview with Melanie Grant, she noted the limitations of scales like Fitzpatrick when assessing treatment options for clients who may have mixed cultural backgrounds. Leanne Tran of The One Skin and Wellness agrees. She says "traditional lasers require therapists and technicians to understand clients' Fitzpatrick phototypes. This is risky when clients have multicultural backgrounds or develop tans during warmer months." These limitations are being acknowledged beyond the beauty community by industries that use dermatological principles to create technology. Google has told Reuters that the Fitzpatrick scale, previously used to develop technologies like A.I., has been inadequate. They are now working towards more inclusive and complex identification models. The
Risk and rewards:
The financial and psychological fallout: The financial and reputational damage
"Dermatology was a specialty that started in Europe – so everything, from the language we use to the description of skin conditions has been based on Caucasian skin." And so follows the education given to beauty therapists. In the last four years, Rodrigues says continued advocacy has seen improvements in teaching and research – but these advancements will take some time to translate to education for beauty therapists. Meanwhile, in her practice Rodrigues sees adverse effects from inappropriate skincare recommendations like over-thecounter peels and creams to professional micro needling, IPL, and laser treatment therapies. She says it is essential that any practitioner understands adverse reactions will be "amplified" in skin of colour, so they should approach treatment with caution.
associated with stories like Linda’s are well understood. As recently 2019, a Sydney CBD business paid $25,000 in damages following a "safe and effective" ultrasound procedure that resulted in depigmentation (Gerard Malouf and Partners, 2019). But there are also psychological consequences for staff involved in treatments gone wrong to consider. In 2018 a Netherlands paper titled “Ethical implications in the beauty salon” was published in the Journal of Bioethics. Addressed an alarming rise in in-salon industries, and sought to develop a national guideline for aesthetic practice. The paper focused on legal intervention and regulation, and also examined the protection of those working in the industry. The report said that those who enter the beauty services industry "are the type of people who like to help others." These people can both find it difficult to deny treatment to insistent clients or refuse to perform them when faced with insistent managers. They are also more likely to be affected psychologically by client injury. The U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs has acknowledged the concept of "moral injury" as a form of post-traumatic stress disorder. The Department outlines it as a syndrome that affects returned soldiers and occurs in hospital and caregiving settings. It can arise when an individual "may perpetrate, fail to prevent or witness events that contradict deeply held moral beliefs or expectations." While this condition hasn't been examined in the beauty sector, other caregiving professions like nursing and aged care experience high rates of burnout, and the condition is also present in the retail and customer service industries. Burnout is responsible for between 20-50% of workplace turnover (Forbes, 2019) and could be contributing to our industry's talent retention problem – potentially compounding the staff shortages recently outlined by the Aesthetics and Beauty Industry Council of Australia (2021).
The way forward: So, what can our industry do to protect clients, practitioners, and businesses? The U.S. and U.K. are making progress with group action. In the U.S., the hair industry has made strides that
BEAUTY INVESTIGATION the beauty community could make a note of. Rodrick Samuels, an American hairstylist and activist, believes better education and a paradigm shift are what's required. Samuels said that students are not being equipped to succeed from an educational standpoint, and this is failing the industry as a whole. He says, "We can't have our industry grow and thrive if the white girl runs to the colour room every time an African American woman walks in the door." Millie Kendall, Chief Executive Officer for the British Beauty Industry Council, concurrs. She says lack of education undermines the perception of the industry as a professional sector. Far from an imposition, regulatory oversight is essential to ensuring the sector receives the respect it should, as a robust contributor to the economy and equal opportunity employment provider. As in Britain and the Netherlands, regulation for non-medical practitioners in Australia is inconsistent. In Western Australia a IV diploma or certificate is required to operate a laser for hair removal and for cosmetic procedures like non-ablative pigment and vascular treatment 100 hours of training under supervision must be evidence. In Queensland and Tasmania licenses are also required for use of laser equipment. But in the rest of Australia there are no requirements or regulations. One benefit of regulation is that it mandates levels of training and education that it better equips salon staff to make informed treating decisions. Millie says “imagine teaching treatments requiring technology that 20 years ago couldn't have even been
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imagined. We need to educate the educators, but there's a perception from policymakers that we're uneducated hobbyists, rather than acknowledgment that we're a skilled workforce that requires investment."
What does change look like? Beauty technology providers are responding to increased demand for inclusive treatment options. Leanne Tran says that new laser technology is helping her deliver powerful outcomes for clients of all backgrounds. She uses the Cynosure Elite I.Q. Laser, which has settings adaptable to different skin tones. Notably, the Elite's "Skintel" melanin reader assists therapists in establishing the safest parameters for treatment in real-time. She says, "this means therapists aren't under or overtreating, and reduces treatment timeframes while delivering great results for clients." While new, state-of-theart technologies require investment from businesses, Linda believes the benefits far outweigh the costs: "I think modern Australian beauty businesses must offer safe and effective treatments for all clients." She says that "as we treat a diverse range of clients from all ethnicities, we ensure we offer a range of treatments that are not only safe but results-driven. It will "raise the standards in the country while allowing clients to provide feedback and build trust with their therapists." Dr. Michelle Rodrigues believes that beauticians shouldn’t wait for better technology to land in their hands, instead, a focus on upskilling in accurate
skin diagnosis is essential. Some skin conditions present differently depending on skin tone, so self-education may be required. She says, “There are fantastic textbooks online– and of course, there are scientific publications and peer reviewed journals that are a good place to start.” Then, to establish suitability for treatment, get some history, “ask patients about previous treatments, establish there is no history of keloid scarring.” She says that some technologies like radiofrequency micro needling devices are recommended, but that the tips and parameters used are “crucial if you want to avoid tearing of the epidermis, hyper pigmentation and scarring.” Ultimately, she says great outcomes lie with individual practitioners: “The success of any treatment is less dependent on technology than it is the practitioners’ intimate knowledge and accurate diagnosis of the skin.”
An opportunity for the industry: What has come up for me in researching this piece, and speaking with numerous experts and practitioners, is the sheer scale of consumers who aren’t being catered to. Following two exceptionally challenging years for the beauty industry, it is troubling to think that based on the last Australian Census, up to 15% of the Australian population is not being catered to by our industry. As we look to reopen our industry in 2022, all beauty businesses should consider whether they are catering to the 15% of potential beauty clients, yet to have their needs addressed. n
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of ambience When it comes to creating a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of city streets. Fancy Lash owner Kathy Duong shares with Anita Quade her tips on creating the perfect interiors for clients.
Tell us how you chose the location for Fancy Lash? “It was chosen upon the aspects of convenience and ease. Finding a central location was key as Sydney city is so busy. I also wanted to find a place that was close to public transport and easy enough to find. Being located central in the busy city of Sydney is great as well as being close to a main train station and bus line as parking in the city is often a struggle. Fancy Lash is located in the heart of Pott Points to allow clients to simply step in and out without the hassle of trying to locate the salon.” The interiors are stunning – what was the vibe that you were going for? “I wanted to create a space that was both relaxing and comfortable that truly made clients feel welcome and at ease. I had the pleasure of working with the architectural and interior design team from Alexander and Co. to create a space I had envisioned for Fancy Lash. The soft tones of pink and white compliment the wooden features of the salon, and I feel that when you walk in you are in escaping the bustling city.”
How important is it to set the ambience for a salon? “Ambience is so important especially being located in the heart of the city where there is constant road and foot traffic. I wanted clients to walk in and instantly feel calmed by the soothing music and soft tones of colours and interiors. I think it makes a huge difference and puts the client at peace knowing we take pride not only in our service but the presentation and look of our salon.”
Do you have a favourite piece? “My favourite piece in the salon is our beauty chairs for our clients. As you know appointment time for each service of applying lash extensions ranges from 45 minutes to 2 hours, so investing in professional and high-quality furniture is key to making sure the clients experience is the most comfortable and relaxing during their time here.”
What sets Fancy Lash apart from other lash salons? Fancy Lash has three main differences: 1. Fancy Lash extensions last up to nine weeks, saving their clients important time and money whereas most competitors last three to five weeks and this is due to their unique technique for applying each lash to the eyelid. Performed with precision and care, with the clients eye shape and desired look always in mind. 2. Fancy Lash takes the time to fill approximately 90% of the client’s lash. Their competitors only cover up to 70-80% which results to bad retention and little
time between infill appointments that not only takes up time but money where it could be speared. 3. The cut of the Fancy Lash extension material has a special form (a diamond cut) where it ultimately improves lash retention by a massive 30% that also adds
Tell us about your background? “I left Vietnam in 2009 with my mother and sister and I was just 21 years old enrolled in my third year in Biotechnology. My mother always wanted me to pursue a career in the medical industry such as a doctor, pharmacist or at least a nurse which inevitably lead me into the field of biotech. However, whilst being a student I was also about to become a wife and mother, having my first child at 25 and second only four years later.”
So how did you juggle motherhood and starting a business? “It wasn’t until my husband asked me one day “where do you see yourself ”, that I had thought about what my passion truly was in life and how I had been pressured into studying a course I didn’t actually enjoy only because I had felt guilty because of my mother’s sacrifice moving away from home. I decided to look into the beauty industry and started working casually at a nail salon however early on I learnt that I was allergic to the chemicals in acrylic powders and polish. This then led me into an eyelash extension course where I fell in love with the art and would spend hours practicing every night when my children would go to bed. I spent over six months investigating the market by working in various lash salons around Sydney and first launched my business as just a room sharing with a hair salon in Surry Hills.”
How have you re-imagined your business in lockdown? “It has been really tough as we haven’t been able to operate however I am spending more time on our social media pages and keeping clients and followers updated and, in the loop,, exciting to have them back when we can re-open again. This time off has definitely made me miss being at work, even though some days are long and tiring it has made me think about how fortunate I am to love what I do.”
Which is the most important area in a salon to set the mood?
How did you set up your own salon? “After only two months, my clientele grew and I was crazy busy. Knowing I had to expand, I ventured out and opened my own salon in Potts Point – which was my first official step not only as a business owner but a proud eyelash technician. Today Fancy Lash operates with myself and Daniel who strive to deliver a personalised and professional experience to each client. We absolutely love the salon and meeting new people, it was definitely a big step out of my comfort zone but I knew I needed to take a leap of faith to follow my passion. I love what I do and feel privileged I get to wake up every morning and make someone feel happier and more confident in themselves.”
What is it you love most about the industry? “I love the feeling of seeing huge smiles on my clients faces, knowing I helped them feel better, happier and more confident with themselves. With everyone who sits in our chair we take the greatest amount of pride and attention to their desired look/discussing how we can achieve their idea of a beautiful set of lashes. It is the feeling when the client first opens their eyes and looks in the mirror that makes me love what I do even more every day.”
What is the main specialty of the salon? “I opened Fancy Lash with the dream of creating beautiful sets of lashes and becoming well equipped to tailor each set to the client’s desire and their eye shape. I love to give clients my honest opinion and advice when it comes to choosing the best shape that suits you, however as climates and trends change I am too trying to adapt to social media crazes and upcoming beauty trends. An example is the brow lamination service that we too have available. I think this is great as it allows me to break up my normal days of lash services and get my hands on something different.”
Most requested treatment? “The most requested treatment has been the classic eyelash extension service as it gives you the look of longer yet more natural lashes without the need to use mascara. This can be great for people who don’t like to wear too much makeup as they feel it adds all that they need. However, brow lamination has also become a popular service in our salon, many commenting how they have seen the trend on social media and wanting to try it out themselves. Brow lamination gives you the fluffy brow look by enhancing and laminating your brow hairs in place, definitely a strong trend in beauty this year.”
“I think as soon as you walk in you should feel a positive and good vibe. Our waiting area is cosy and very on trend with our pink velvet armchairs. Moving from the waiting area, our treatment rooms are candle lit with sweet and subtle scents to enhance the mood whilst soft background music puts you to ease – clients might even feel so relaxed they take a nap! (it has happened before!)”
If you had an unlimited budget what would be your splurge purchase? “I think for me, if I had an unlimited budget I would definitely look into customised versions of recliner chairs to completely elevate the look and feel of Fancy Lash.”
How often do you update the look? “We tend to stick to the same theme of soft pink hues but aim to update the salon interior every three years to maintain the fresh and fancy feel of the space. I also love adding new florals to the waiting room to help brighten the space up a little bit. At the moment I love dried flowers, I think they not only last but look so delicate and compliment the room well. I also like to add different décor items to the shelves to switch things up.”
Are there any inexpensive tips for salon owners on how to update a salon interior? “I think similarly to what I mentioned above, dried flowers are a great way to spice up any area. Instead of buying fresh weekly blooms, a dried arrangement can last up to months saving you money where you could be putting in to something else. I think my main tip would be to hire an interior designer. This will give you access to a large selection of trade only finishing’s, fabrics and wall coverings that otherwise you’d probably do not have access to. The services and trades people that designers have cultivated relationships with over the years is also important and where you can also save money and time on. Fancy Lash was designed by the amazing Alexander and Co. team.” n
TIPS TO SUPPORT YOUR BEAUTY INDUSTRY COLLEAGUES’ MENTAL HEALTH DURING THE LATEST LOCKDOWNS Glenn Baird reveals the importance of monitoring mental health. These uncertain times, where many in the beauty industry are without a paycheck or regular work, it’s more important than ever to check in on your colleagues and employees. WITH THE LATEST COVID-19 strain outbreak putting many regions and states in Australia into lockdown, it’s more important than ever to support your colleagues in the beauty industry who are close to you and might be showing signs of struggling mental health. There are signs to look out for and resources available to help you and your colleague tackle these challenges, in order to fully understand and support someone close to you who may be struggling with their mental health. Glenn Baird, Head of Mental Health at TAL life insurer, shares some tips on how you can help a colleague or employee struggling with their mental health during lockdown.
health conditions in Australia, it’s not uncommon for those dealing with mental health conditions to be reluctant to talk about their challenges. Start by asking directly ‘Is it okay if we talk about how you are feeling?’ and then you might follow this with ‘If now is not a good time I can check in with you another time?’. If they are okay with talking, you might want to start with an open question, ‘Help me understand how this is impacting you day to day?’. Let your family member lead the discussion at their own pace, and don’t put pressure on them to talk about things they’re not ready to share. It’s also important to let them express themselves without you interrupting. Being sensitive and encouraging in your responses will help make them feel comfortable to open up further, and it may also be beneficial to avoid problem solving mode, which has the right intent but can often shut down the conversation rapidly.”
Treat them with respect and dignity
Offer pathways of support
“Treating people living with mental health conditions with respect and dignity can go a long way towards creating healthy and respectful relationships. Being non-judgmental can help break down any stigma or misunderstanding associated with mental health, which is crucial for long-term growth and happiness. A good place to start is listening. The most important thing to keep in mind when it comes to listening is that you shouldn’t be listening to respond, you should be listening to understand. You do this by listening to the content, but also the feeling, i.e, what do you pick up that is not being said. Once you begin to understand how your family member is feeling, you’ll be better placed to show empathy and offer support.”
“Support from family, friends and professionals plays a significant role in the recovery process of someone experiencing mental health issues. When you are in a place where you understand what your family member is experiencing, and they feel understood, it is worth having further discussion about what additional support may be useful to them. Encouraging someone to look after their physical health by eating right, sleeping well, and regularly exercising are always good places to start. Empowering them to seek professional help, if they aren’t already, is also a healthy step forward. This could be offering to make an appointment with a GP or mental health specialist and ask if they’d like you to go with them.”
Ask them if it’s okay to talk about how they are feeling “Talking about how you feel is a positive step towards improving mental health, but it can take a lot of trust and courage. Despite the prevalence of mental
Follow through and follow up
“Providing ongoing emotional support and a continuity of care can increase the likelihood to recover from a mental health condition. Knowing you are always there for them is crucial in helping them recover. Admitting that you need support can be one of the hardest steps for a person with a mental health condition, so if offers of support are made, it is important to follow through with whatever action you have stated you would do. Once this is done, ask them directly, ‘Do you mind if I check in with you again in a few days?’. This way you are not applying immediate pressure for them to take action, and you can keep the dialogue open so they understand they are not tackling their challenges alone.” n
Supporting someone who experiences a mental health condition isn’t easy and it can affect your own mental health and wellbeing. It’s important to also look after yourself during this process. Everymind has also created a small-business specific mental health hub, Ahead for Business, where you can find support for yourself or someone else. They say it’s a “Fit-for-purpose response to the mental health and wellbeing needs of small business owners. The project supports those working in small business to take action on their mental health and wellbeing through a new digital hub providing tailored resources, peer support, check-ups and personalised action plans. Ahead for Business is supported by a national communication strategy, research and capacity building activities to mobilise the small business community and those that support them.” The NSW Small Business Commissioner also lists the following free resources if you or a colleague need mental health support during this pandemic. “beyondblue provides information on depression, anxiety and suicide. Resources are also available for the workplace and there is a help section for carers, concerned family and friends. Support is available through their helpline 1300 22 4636, via chat or email. beyondblue has also partnered with the Mentally Healthy Workplace Alliance to create Heads Up. Heads Up encourages everyone in the workplace to play their part in creating a mentally healthy working environment, take care of their own mental health, and look out for their colleagues. Heads Up provides individuals and organisations with free, practical information and resources to create mentally healthy workplaces and respond to mental health issues in the workplace.
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Lifeline Australia is a national organisation which provides 24hour support and suicide prevention services. Information and resources are available for concerned family and friends. Call 13 11 14 or contact them on chat.” Beyond Blue also has a dedicated COVID-19 support site and the Australian Government has produced a PDF booklet on called Mentally Healthy Workplaces During COVID-19: Small Businesses.
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THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE Dermatologist and founder of Bespoke Technology Skincare Katherine Armour chats to Anita Quade about the importance of keeping it simple when it comes to a beauty routine. Tell us how you came to launch Bespoke Skin Technology? “I’ve always been interested in skincare, and its ability to improve skin health and beauty – however over the last 14 years as a Dermatologist, I’ve had the privilege of listening to my patients, friends and family about what they want from their skincare. They nearly all want the best that science can offer with the simplicity of a small number of products. I have always prided myself on curating personalised skincare plans for my patients that contain the best that science has to offer with multitasking ingredients that treat several problems at once. Inevitably, in the past this led to me drawing on my favourite products from multiple other brands, and therefore several steps. This could be time consuming and expensive. So many women asked me “isn’t there just one product for morning and night that will do it all?”. I realised that this was what I wanted to create.”
Was there any specific concerns you wanted to address? “As well as wanting to provide multitasking products, as a dermatologist, I also noticed that so many of my patients with adult acne, rosacea and eczema had sensitive skin, and really struggled to find active skincare that they could tolerate. So, I chose my active ingredients really carefully so that they could achieve outstanding results while making sure that the antioxidants were soothing as well as potent in efficacy.”
You have mentioned that this skincare regime is all about simplicity – was that the main goal of the range? “At its core, Bespoke Skin Technology is about creating products with purpose that bridge gaps in the skincare market.”
How long did it take you to research formulations that included all the necessary elements into one product? “Each product is different. However our recent formulations took over two years of research and development, and a few different labs, to create. What we didn’t realise when we first set out to create the Bespoke products was that combining everything into one formulation whilst ensuring it feels beautiful on the skin is really, really difficult. All our formulations are created from scratch too, so that can make the process a lot longer.”
What has the reaction been like from loyal customers? “The reaction so far has been amazing. We are so grateful for the support of our loyal Bespoke fans. At the end of the day, we create these products after listening to our customers. For example, our cleansers came about after hearing so many times that Bespoke users wanted a non-foaming cleanser that didn’t contain fragrance and irritate sensitive skin, but still delivered an elevated self care experience with each use. To hear that we have delivered on this, really brings joy and reminds us exactly why we do what we do.”
Do you stock in beauty salons as well as online? “We do have a select few stockists across Australia, ranging from dermatology practices to pharmacies.”
You have recently added new hero products to your range – tell us about that? “As briefly touched on above, the new additions to the range are really about staying true to our Bespoke values, but adding products to the range that our loyal fan base had been asking for. Additionally, I have long wanted to create a product that could safely and effectively combat the signs of ageing, sun damage, acne, congestion and unwanted pigmentation in my patients who are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have sensitive skin. Luminosity Revive and Refine Serum does just that. This novel formulation is suitable for anyone with these skin concerns. However, this unique serum provides a much needed solution
for those who are pregnant and breastfeeding, or have difficulty using topical retinoids. The Luminosity Revive and Refine serum also draws on Astaxanthin as a soothing, anti-inflammatory and brightening antioxidant which is at least 65 times more potent than Vitamin C. The Replenish Cleansing Balm is a luxurious, soothing oil to milk cleanser which is a great first step for those who like a twostep cleanse. It leaves your skin feels plumped and hydrated. Step 2 is our Radiance Reset Anti-Pollution Cleanser is a luxurious milky cleanser which is infused with potent antioxidants which combat the effects from pollution whilst soothing inflammation and decongesting. It is appropriate for all skin types.”
What has the feedback from customers been like to your range? “Amazing so far! So many women have reached out to thank us for creating products that actually allow them to stick to their skincare routine, even when they’re incredibly time poor.”
What are some of the hero ingredients in your day and evening formulations? “Every ingredient we formulate with is really a hero. As mentioned above, formulating products with lots of ingredients is difficult, so each ingredient we choose to include must have amazing clinical evidence, be potent in efficacy but also soothing to the skin. Some of our favourites are, DNA repair enzymes, Astaxanthin, Niacinamide, Resveratrol, Retinaldehyde, Bakuchiol and Lycopene.”
What is one of the main issues you would like to see addressed when it comes to skincare? “Education! We’re loving seeing increased interest in the science behind skincare and particular ingredients. We would love to see a shift in the way skincare is marketed too, with more focus on what is in the product rather than ‘what’s not’ and playing on consumers fears and misinformation scare tactics like ‘clean beauty’.”
What are your plans for the brand in the future? “Oh, there are so many! Without revealing too much, we have a really exciting improved all -in- 1 formulation that can be used day and night coming at the end of this year. It addresses all the main signs of aging and sun damage as a truly luxurious experience. We are hoping to tap more into the education angle with events for industry and the general public when the world returns to some form of normal.”
Is there a skincare ingredient you can’t live without? “SPF and Niacinamide.”
You consult at the Dermatology Institute of Victoria – tell us about that… “At Dermatology Institute of Victoria, I work as a medical, cosmetic and surgical dermatologist. My job is so diverse and fascinating. No two days are the same! In any given day I’ll be treating acne, rosacea, eczema, skin cancers, immune-mediated rashes, and sun damage. Laser treatments, injectables and skin cancer surgery are also a big part of my day. I particularly enjoy helping my patients to construct skincare plans that are simple, cost-effective and adequately meet their skincare goals. I am so blessed that my job allows me to care for children, teens, young and middle-aged adults as well as the elderly. Not many areas of medicine allow you to see the whole spectrum of ages. I feel so lucky to see patients through so many different stages as their life as well as well as entire families!’’ n
Tell us how you developed your love of the skincare industry? “During my training as a dermatologist, I was always fascinated by the ability of cosmeceutical ingredients to transform the skin, and to support medical and energy-based therapies. Early in my career as a Dermatologist, I was lucky enough to consult to L’Oreal Paris Skincare for 5 years across Australasia. This led me to thoroughly research many cosmeceutical ingredients. My love of the skincare industry has grown in my 14 years as a dermatologist as I’ve seen how the right skincare can transform my patients’ skin and their wellbeing.”
What is a key lesson that you have learnt on your career journey? “To appreciate the learnings and experiences from my patients. This has been so integral to inspiring me to create Bespoke. I formulate the products that my patients want and need.”
TALKING BEAUTY Looking
FOR A LIFT? In 2019 Harpers Bazaar published an article titled “Why nobody has facelifts anymore.” In the article, Lucia Ferrari noted that new technology was offering alternatives to beauty lovers afraid of looking “too ‘done’, puffed-up or just weird.” Millennials are spending big on plastic surgery and filler, but reputable plastic surgeons are acknowledging the potential downsides of surgical and penetrative intervention in young patients. Dr Jack Zoumaras, Secretary of the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons wrote in an article on his website that fillers were designed for use on older clients, and when used on clients yet to experience the first signs of ageing could “distort normal anatomy, create unusual morphing of the face.” And invasive treatments also aren’t guaranteed to deliver the results this demographic are looking for. In 2013, The Journal of American Medical Association published a study that found while plastic surgery could make patients look younger, it did not make them more attractive. On average patients who received facelifts were assessed as roughly 3 years younger than their age, but Dr. A. Joshua Zimm said “surprisingly… we didn’t see a statistically significant attractiveness improvement.” Skin health is one of the highest indicators of attractiveness – that translates to luminosity, tone and texture rather than facial structure (Philosophical Transactions B, Facial attractiveness: evolutionary based research, 2011) It goes without saying that looking and feeling more beautiful is a greater priority for patients in their twenties and thirties than necessariliy looking younger. And a new breed of non-invasive procedures are providing results by working with the skin. Like a typical millennial client, I became intrigued by HIFU after seeing pop-up on blue-ticked Instagram feeds. In the interest of investigative journalism I took the “electronic facelift” for a spin. HIFU stands for High Intensity Focused Ultrasound, a treatment that creates heat deep within the skin, damaging targeted skin cells and promoting a reparative process. The treatment is extremely effective for correcting sagging in the jaw, cheeks and mouth and providing a contoured and lifted look. Vikki Pow, manager at Body Catalyst, CBD, tells me she works with the Cluederm Ulfit, which provides multiple treatment options. The 6-9mm cartridges on the HIFU device can be used on their own
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Ruby Feneley trials the electonric facelift, and weighs the risk-benefits of invasive and non-invasive treatments. for body sculpting, but are particularly effective at tightening loose skin post weight loss. Meanwhile, the 4.5mm cartridge is perfect for clients requesting Coolsculpting for the face – an inadvisable treatment in Vikki’s opinion. She explains: “you generally don’t want to permanently reduce weight in the face as that is where we want to keep structure and volume as we age. HIFU can be a great alternative in that instance.” While the 4.5mm setting is used for the most dramatic results, Vikki says the 3mm and 1.5mm are popular with younger clients – “we call them the sculpt and the Hollywood.” I have a “skinny” face with not much cushioning; the 1.5mm is perfect as it targets the superficial layer – ironing out creepiness without causing discomfort. Vikki says therapists can also switch cartridges as they go – using 1.5mm on the eyes, forehead and mouth and 3mm on the cheeks for a truly tailored treatment. The HIFU experience is quick and relatively painless – I would describe the sensation as a rubber band pulled taut beneath the skin. Within twenty minutes, I’m applying sunscreen and ready to go. I’ve developed a “no pain, no gain” attitude to beauty after years in the industry, so given the brevity of the treatment, I wasn’t expecting dramatic results. I was surprised when a few weeks later I started receiving compliments from people I see daily, asking what I’d been doing differently. My face was contoured and my skin tone and texture was remarkably improved. It felt smooth, plush and porelessly luminous. I’ve since recommended the treatment to several friends who have had similarly blockbuster results. The best part of HIFU is the results are long lasting, making it a competitive alternative to “semi-permanent” procedures. Compared to a facelift that can cost tens of thousands of dollars and requires a month of downtime, the HIFU treatments range between $6001200, requires 1-3 sessions and once a year maintenance, I predict with costconscious millennials and Gen Z’ers having spent months staring down the barrel of their desktop camera on zoom calls, HIFU will be the treatment trend of the summer. Until next time beauties! X. Ruby
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SETTING THE BEAUTY MOOD The secret to creating an unforgettable client experience is key to gaining return business. Isabella Castle reveals the ultimate checklist to guarantee customer satisfaction. Client experience is undeniably important, but did you know research found that 84% of companies that work on improving their client experience report an increase in their revenue? Clients also love a good experience! In a study by Microsoft, 96% of clients said customer service is important when choosing which brand to be loyal to. So, focusing on client experience is good for everyone! If you’re wondering how to improve every part of your client’s experience to see these benefits for your business, check out these tips.
1. Provide a seamless booking experience Whether it’s in person, over the phone, or via online booking, make sure a client’s experience is seamless! Trying the process out for yourself, or asking trusted clients what they think of your booking process is the best way to find any flaws. We recommend giving your clients plenty of options when it comes to booking. Offering online booking is the most flexible option, as it allows people to book outside normal business hours, and means they can see all your appointment slots to work out what best suits them.
2. Confirm and remind clients of their appointments There’s three different types of messages you can send at this stage of their experience: confirmation, welcome, and reminder. Sending an appointment confirmation that allows your client to instantly add the details of the appointment to their calendar will mean they’ll be less likely to forget it. A welcome message is good for new or infrequent clients. Explain things like parking, when to arrive, and what to expect during their time with you.
A reminder message is great for all your clients. A study by Simply Texting found that 60% of people responded to texts in the first 2 minutes, while for email, most people only responded after an hour. So we recommend text as it’s the most effective channel. Appointment reminders also significantly reduce no shows, so it’s a win-win!
3. Make them feel welcome When a client walks through the door, make sure they’re greeted, made to feel welcome, are informed about how long they have to wait, or who to see. Having a receptionist makes this easy, but if not, create a rule for your team that when any client walks in they’re looked after by the first person who sees them.
4. Stick to your schedule Allowing an appropriate amount of time for appointments helps you avoid falling behind schedule. However sometimes a client is running late or the unexpected occurs. The best way to make sure your client has a great experience regardless of mishaps is to have processes in place. Make sure your team knows to message their clients straight away if they’re running late, and to offer a free treatment to make up for it.
5. Consider all the details in your environment The overall feeling a client has when they walk into your salon, spa or clinic, is made up of all the little details. The music, decor, smell, drinks, lighting, it all has an impact on the client experience.
6. Take notes Client notes aren’t just for treatment notes. They’re also good for remembering the small details about your clients. Remembering drink preferences, upcoming holidays or kids and partners names all make your clients feel special, and helps you form better relationships.
7. Send a follow up message Sending a message to your clients shortly after their appointment is always a good idea. You can thank them for visiting, but you can also ask for a review, encourage rebooking, or upsell products or services related to their appointment. If a client feels like they can’t get the same treatment anywhere else, they’re more likely to stay with you for a long time. n Isabella Castle is in the Marketing Team at Kitomba Salon and Spa Software. Visit www. kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 83
Want to know how to re-imagine your business after restrictions? Matt Williams reveals his top rules to forge ahead for success. IF THE ORIGINAL lockdowns of 2020 are an indicator of business after lockdown, the question isn’t “how to survive after lockdown”, but more critically “how to survive the lockdown you currently find yourself in, and inevitably, the next lockdown”. We are not in a recession as such, we are however in a “restriction”, which means that if you are restricted from trading and sales are down (sometimes catastrophically), once these restrictions ease, we are seeing businesses (especially in our industry) rebound very quickly. So, I will offer some rules that have served me well over the past several decades from starting, buying, building, and selling businesses, to surviving a global financial crisis, major industry disruptions, fierce competition, debilitating international currency fluctuations, a tornado that destroyed our office and warehouse, and now a pandemic! Business is like a gladiator sport and invariably we will all face more than one COVID sized calamity in our lifetime and there won’t always be government support. Survival is an obvious prerequisite to facing another day and following are my rules for surviving and thriving during the difficult times, especially when others around you are giving up.
Rule 1 Take Charge! I wanted to say take responsibility but thought that might trigger a negative response in some readers. “I’m not responsible for COVID, I can’t be responsible for the government’s decision to lock us down!” Well to take charge of your business and your life you need to take responsibility for how you respond to any given situation and blaming others doesn’t help you. Remember, nobody ever wins a blame game. So, of course you’re not at fault in this situation and you aren’t responsible for this pandemic, but you are the only one that can respond to the events. If you wait for someone else, wait for government support, or wait until the virus ends, you could be waiting a long time, not to mention, waiting longer than you can afford to wait.
Rule 2 Know your compelling Competitive Advantage. If you want to survive in business, you absolutely need to offer your clients something that nobody else can. This point is critical even when we’re not experiencing a crisis. When times are good and business is flowing in easily, that is when industries can get ultracompetitive, and it is someone else doing it better than you that cripples your business. So really knowing what it is that you can do that none of your competitors can is the key to making your business invincible.
Rule 3 Ensure you have a Profitable Business Model. I am absolutely baffled that so many business owners don’t know how much profit they make on each treatment, on each retail sale or over any given period. They don’t know what their break-even point
you know what their top skin concerns are, you should always be addressing those concerns and make it convenient for them to buy from you. Your clients trust and respect your knowledge, so the only thing getting in the way of them buying from you is friction. Ensure you are working on reducing that friction at all times.
Be prepared for tomorrow. Like I said earlier, this isn’t the last time we will be faced with a seemingly insurmountable challenge. Some experts say that this is just a dress rehearsal for the real pandemic! I know that sounds negative, but I like to be prepared, and the next challenge might not be a pandemic but could be equally as damaging. The difference between the businesses that don’t survive and the businesses that thrive will come down to preparation.
Take care of your team. That brings me to my next rule, which is to take good care of your team. This doesn’t necessarily mean paying them when you can’t afford to or putting their needs before your own and/or the customer’s needs, but it does mean understanding their needs and working towards ensuring that you and the workplace are set up to meet their needs. One thing is certain, if you want to attract amazing talent and retain your top employees for many years, you must create an environment that supports them to reach their goals.
Rule 5 Develop Effective Marketing and Sales Processes. This involves testing and measuring what you do and refining your processes. So many salons owners throw their marketing efforts at the wall and hope something sticks. You cannot approach marketing or sales processes like this and expect to get results, especially during challenging times. If you understand your clients and
There are no magic bullets in the above-mentioned rules for succeeding in business, but skip any one of them and you will struggle more than you need to. If you follow these rules, they will provide you with your best chance at success, no matter what is going on around you. n Matt Williams is the Managing Director, Professional Beauty Solutions. www.probeautysolutions.com.au
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is, and they haven’t given serious thought to how they should price treatments so that they can actually make some money. Your ability to earn a profit and retain a portion of those earnings so that you can survive tough times is critical. Imagine being profitable enough to weather the invariable storms that arise and being able to take care of the people around you when they do.
HOME GROWN HEROES
Homegrown Heroes: Cassandra Nitcherlein Cassandra Nitcherlein has years of experience in beauty, from consumer PR with retail brands to salon supply as Director of Style Patisserie. Now, she has founded salon cosmetic brand Velvet Concepts. Cassandra spoke to Ruby Feneley about capturing the Australian salon consumer, and the benefits of retailing through small business. CASSANDRA NITCHERLEIN’S OBSESSION with beauty started as a teenager. “I’d devour magazines and skip straight to the beauty pages,” she says, “I was lucky I knew very early on what I loved and the industry I wanted to work in.” Straight out of university, Nichterlein nabbed a position at a boutique PR agency, where her first clients were major brands like Aveda, Alpha H, and BECCA cosmetics. “I learnt so much in those 10 years working in PR - from marketing and sales to distribution.” Cassandra then decided she wanted to get her hands dirty in distribution, founding Style Patisserie. Australia is a tough supply chain at the best of times and Nichterlein says running a business with an extensive suite of products and award-winning brand management and growth strategy has set her up well to launch her own brand, Velvet Concepts. Nichterlein launched Velvet Concepts in 2018, after noticing that many new and exciting international brands were being snapped up by multinational retailers. She says, “We could see there were limited options for salon retailers to have brands that offered professional performance for the end customer, were uncomplicated to navigate, and had a premium, luxe feel.” Her experience in distribution served her well in the development process: “We had a wealth of data, from retailers and consumers as well as our sales decks across brands. We felt we could really get to grips with what the Australian salon consumer was looking for.” Of the salon customer, she says, “they’re discerning - they want a quality product that performs, but they don’t want to be overwhelmed with too many options. I think particularly in a salon environment, customers respond well to curated and edited brands. We’re not ‘quick trend,’ but we are versatile and wherever possible multi-functional. Its quality over quantity and a range that performs as promised, and is comprehensive enough to work as a whole.” Nichterlein says a striking aesthetic was an important point of difference for the brand. “We wanted something that stood out; a lot of brands will go for similar colour schemes like black and white. We wanted something that communicated the Velvet Concepts point of view: unique, sophisticated, and modern yet classic.” For inspiration they looked away from other cosmetic brands and towards interiors, which is where they struck gold, or, more accurately, grey. Nichterlein says “that’s where we hit on our ‘elephant grey’ with clean, bright gold finishing. We’ve also added some dusty plums, bright peach, and pure white to the palette. We love that it’s unexpected and fresh, but still looks cohesive.”
Formulas were also critical and Nitcherlein opted for Italy - “We worked with factories that make products for some of the biggest brands in the cosmetics industry.” She confesses to being star-struck on several occasions: “Flying over to meet the formulation teams, we’d be sitting in the reception area and we’d see people from some of the top brands in the world!” Despite the effort of travel and the expense Nitcherlein feels the results speak for themselves:“it was the right choice and we ended up with a team who were super-attuned to what we were asking for with regards to wear and texture.” Something Nitcherlein remains passionate about is working with the salon industry; she sees a significant benefit in retailing through salons over department stores and mega-chains. She says, “Working with salons we feel like we get to ‘touch’ or end customer. We are dealing with people who work with our customer one on one. The service is exceptionally personal compared to a cosmetic retail environment, so the data we can gather is so specific. She also remains passionate, following over a decade working with salons as a distributor, about the industry itself, and believes small business is more important than ever. She says: “It’s been a privilege to work with salon owners who live and breathe their business. Now more than ever Australians appreciate the importance of small business. Taking the journey with our retailers and supporting them is an aspect of our work we love the most. Their success is our success and we never forget that!” n
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CAREER HOW I GOT HERE MICHELLE REEVE FOUNDER WATERLILY Tell us how you got into the wellness industry? “My passion is health and wellbeing. I’ve always been an advocate for natural medicine and explored and researched ways to promote and protect my health. As a passionate Aromatherapist, I have studied remedial massage, nutrition along with Chinese medicine. I love the empowerment having an understanding of your own wellbeing gives. To be a personal advocate for your own health and have the agency to lead a vibrant life is the one of the most powerful gifts you can give yourself. Developing rituals of self-care and treating the skin, the body’s largest organ, was a natural progression for me.”
What is it that keeps you in the beauty game? “I had the opportunity to study complementary therapies in aromatherapy, Chinese medicine, nutrition and remedial massage nearly 20 years ago and have not looked back. Wellbeing can only be achieved by proactive lifestyle choices around diet, movement, connection and mindfulness. I love the body’s ability to heal itself given the right conditions and nutrients. Treating the skin with a combination of aromatherapy, naturopathic infusions and green cosmeceuticals is where I’ve been best able to express my passion and share my knowledge with others.”
You established the Waterlily brand in 2005 tell us why you set this up? “The brand is an expression of my personal philosophy around health; the naturopathic approach of prevention, the way we treat our well-being, is how we should approach the care of our skin. The brand has been a platform to express my creativity and passion by creating beautiful, aromatic and sensory rituals of self-care. It’s also been a space to foster a corporate culture
PASSION IS A GREAT DRIVER TO CREATE SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL, BUT IT’S YOUR ONGOING COMMITMENT TO YOUR BRAND AND PERSONAL VALUES AND ETHOS THAT WILL FUEL YOU AND LIGHT THE PATH WHEN THINGS GET TOUGH.
THE BRAND HAS BEEN A PLATFORM TO EXPRESS MY CREATIVITY AND PASSION BY CREATING BEAUTIFUL, AROMATIC AND SENSORY RITUALS OF SELF-CARE. which promotes an ethos of care and connection. This is where the nurturing and nourishing elements of our spa rituals is embedded into how we not only approach the relationship we have with our spa and salon partners but how we show up at work and hold space for each other.”
What is your philosophy? “The naturopathic approach to health shows consumers how to be proactive around protecting their wellbeing. When we translate this to skin we recognise how multi-functional this needs to be. Not only what we put on our skin, but what we consume, our relationship with stress, how we connect to community, how we work, live, love and play. It all has an impact. My approach to skincare reflects trends in the wholefood movement, where a transparent paddock to plate philosophy is underpinned by a slow skincare ethos to protect an intense selection of hand-picked ingredients. I wanted to create a sensory and nourishing ritual that made skincare a lifestyle journey instead of just a topical fix.”
What has been your biggest strength in business? “Coming from a corporate background, I’ve witnessed firsthand some questionable work environments. From the very beginning I was excited at the opportunity to create a company culture where an invested team feels safe, nurtured, inspired and appreciated. For me, the team always comes first. The care and connection that underpins the Waterlily spa journey is the foundation for not only how we approach our beautiful partners but how we hold space for each other. I see many companies focusing on guest service and sacrifice their team. I find that when the team are operating in a nurtured environment where they know each person is celebrated and cared for, they enthusiastically go above and beyond not only for our stockists but for each other. It’s such a gift to work with these incredible women and something I never take for granted.” n
PROFILE Tell us about the launch of Elite IQ?
THE LUXE APPROACH
Managing Director of Luxe Cosmetic Clinic Jeff Chen chats to Anita Quade about his beauty business journey. Tell us how you became Managing Director of Luxe Cosmetic Clinic? “A long time ago, my wife and I were looking for a beauty clinic which could provide provide premium services and accept couples. However, I found that there were some clinics that existed but their technique and service did not really match our requirement in our heart. Rather than wait, we decided to build one by ourselves that was more efficient. Meanwhile it was a great chance to bring something different to the market – that’s how we started our business that targeted the premium market.”
What is it you love most about the industry? “Genetics are irrelevant now. We can overcome all the “flaws” to build a natural, beautiful, and high end look for you. Smile, happiness, and satisfaction is what we see every day in our clinic. Meanwhile, we always try to be the first one to trial some things that are new to the market.”
How have you seen the industry change over the years? “The aesthetic industry grows quickly and there are more and more clinics opening. It brings down the gate for clients to walk into clinics and have some improvement. People’s mind set has changed in the last 10 years, many clients are seeking more non-invasive procedures with less downtime, rather than surgical procedures. Australia is ranked the second place in of injectibles in the world and the market is getting diversified with customers looking for detailed and premium services that is the reason we started our business.”
What is the secret to a successful business? “The aesthetic clinic is a relationship based business. We need to take care of every single one of our clients. We spend time with our clients, understand their requirements, manage their expectations and deliver the best outcome safely, smoothly and efficiently. We also look after them post treatment carefully to make sure the best results are achieved. Happy clients always equal a happy business.”
Any tips for beauty business owners on how to maximise their profits during these challenging times? “Make everything right rather than complaining. The COVID-19 pandemic could be a good start for new decade of your business. Provide more training for your employees, introduce new technology into the business along with keeping fit and healthy.”
How has COVID affected your operations? And what adjustments have you made? “COVID is a global pandemic which also affected us in many ways. During the lockdown period, we only can provide online consultations rather than face-toface. Meanwhile it changes our lifestyle as well. People spend time online to communicate or work. They all wish to look fresh and fabulous. We actually hired more staff to look after them after last year’s lock down. Meanwhile we secure our employees’ income, give them more chance to work in our hospital in China even while the lockdown and offer them more professional training.”
“As we work with Cynosure not only in Australia but also in mainland China, we worked out a new treatment protocol which can achieve wonderful and antiageing results. We will start our online promotion with some main stream KOL and other platforms to make sure as many of our audience can see the magic result from Elite IQ.”
What are some of the main issues that it addresses? “It is an incredible treatment that is non-invasive, has no physical contact can be performed over lunch time with no downtime and it products incredible results.”
What has the reaction been like from clients? “They are excited and can’t wait for the second treatment. Someone even cried after they saw themselves in the mirror. Because their nasolabial fold disappeared immediately after one treatment, with no filler or surgery.”
How important is it for salons to constantly update their equipment? “Clients always want to see new technologies in the clinic. We usually upgrade them quite often to make sure clients always enjoy the trendy treatments in our clinic. It’s similar to a fashion brand.”
This can become expensive – any tips on how it can become more affordable? “Expensive is always more objective. Once there is demand in the market, we will allow our loyal member to try it first.”
Best piece of business advice you have been given? “Do what you are good at rather than replicate someone else’s model.”
Are there any standout mentors throughout your career? “Failure is the mother of success. If you failed once, it’s better to find out why and also overcome the problem and make sure it won’t happen again. I have my lovely wife who is always with me to help me overcome problems and difficulties.” n
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STATE-TO-STATE Did you know 76% of people will check Google reviews before booking? Google ratings and reviews are the fastest way potential clients decide on booking with your business. Ruby Feneley did some virtual exploring to discover the secrets behind five-star reviews (they’re not what you think!)
Advanced Body Image, 4.7 stars
Advanced body image provides body services, cosmetic tattooing, and massage and facial therapy. Customers appreciate being talked through what is happening in their appointed, staff knowledge and training and the level of detail given to them about treatments. advancedbodyimage.com.au
Katie and her staff put you at ease and keep you informed all the way. Google review
Everything was discussed in great detail and I knew I was in confident professional hands. Katy goes above and beyond and is truly passionate about what she does. Google review
Communication is top tier. Google review …from the moment I walked in I felt calm and at ease. A beautiful vibe. Google review
Lovely staff, great location and awesome service. My Brazilian was pain free and I was made to feel very comfortable in surrounding that were clean and restful. Rach Google review
Beautiful, soothing atmosphere. Excellent professional service. Google review
Jana is amazing, talks you through every step of what she is doing and is so nice to talk to. Google review
Waxworks Skin & Beauty, Perth, 4.8 stars
Clients at the Waxworks Skin & Beauty Perth appreciate the (almost) pain-free services, professionalism and immaculate hygiene practices at this busy salon. Their empathetic staff have garnered them countless five star reviews. waxworks.com.au
I come from Paris and even there, I couldn’t find a better place. What makes them the best is their empathy for the pain of hair removal. Everything is done with intelligence and kindness, in a very clean environment. You can go in with your eyes closed. Google review
White Sage Skin and Wellness, Hobart, 4.9 stars White Sage specialist in natural skincare solutions and beauty treatments, their loyal customers applaud the soothing atmosphere at this skincare oasis. whitesagehobart.com.au
I didn’t feel rushed and so much care was taken. Google review
FROM THE BUSINESS: Here at White Sage we believe that true beauty begins from the inside – so we take a holistic and functional approach. All of our treatments are designed to benefit the body and nurture the mind and spirit. We love and appreciate reviews so much! It’s a big part of how people find us when they are searching for somewhere to treat themselves or buy a gift for a loved one. Megan Kate Cupit, Founder, White Sage
Beautiful little home salon. Wonderful, friendly service by Kimmy. She is very knowledgeable and took the time to find out what spray tan would suit my needs best. I wouldn’t go anywhere else after this great experience. Absolutely recommend. Google review
Best spray tans ever!! Most inviting, warm and kind staff and service topped with a long lasting, deep tan. Google review
Spray Tans Coorparoo, 4.9 stars
If you’re looking for spray tans – where else but Queensland? Online reviewers love the warmth Kimmy brings to her consultations as well as the finesse and longevity of their tans. spraytanscoorparoo.com
Great local business. Very responsive to messages and on time. Google review
The best gal in Brisbane for your spray tanning and beauty needs. I feel like a new me each time we catch up. Google review
FROM THE BUSINESS: As a small business I’m a huge believer in nurturing my client relationships. My loyal clients come from establishing a caring relationship with women I see almost weekly. My Google reviews are a huge drawcard for potential clients – next to word of mouth Google reviews are a number one resource for clients finding me and booking in. Kimmy Adams, owner, Spray Tans Coorparoo
The consultation I had would have to be the best consultation I have had for any beauty/hair appointment ever. Google review A beautiful salon with professional staff… I can’t believe how easy and relaxing it was and I LOVED the finished product. I’m hooked. Google review
The attention to detail is superb. Well worth giving these ladies a visit if you want strong brow game. Google review
NEW SOUTH WALES
HoneyTusk Eyebrow Studio, 4.7 stars FROM THE BUSINESS: “The people, on both sides of the table, are what makes my business special. I’ve always wanted to make my salon feel like friends catching up in a relaxed, neutral environment. After all these years (10 this year!) I finally feel like I’ve made it there. I’m not super focused on pushing online reviews - but it certainly helps to be top of SEO!” Chelsea Bagan, founder and owner, Trophy Wife Nails.
My nails are always perfect and they actually last which is wicked because in my line of work I’m constantly wearing gloves and using chemicals. I don’t know how to manage to do it!” Google review
The most beautiful set of nails I’ve ever had! Good vibes and top of the range! Google review
Trophy Wife Nails, 4.7 stars
Melbourne’s Trophy Wife nails has been in business since 2010, opened by Chelsea Bagan. Customers applaud the level of artistry, range of cruelty free options and fun atmosphere of the salon. trophywifenails.com.au
Clients love the bespoke nature of the HoneyTusk brow service and the professional consultation experience. honeytusk.com
The girls are true artists and obviously take great care in their work. Google review
FROM THE BUSINESS: Our mantra at Honey Tusk is ‘good brows can change your face BUT great brows can change your life.’ We have staff training once a month to ensure we are always on trend, and our technical skills and troubleshooting abilities are fine tuned. We want a consistent experience for clients – whether they switch between studios or therapists. This consistency is how we’ve been able to create a loyal clientele base – we have regulars who have been visiting since we opened in 2012! For any small business: online reviews can make or break a reputation. Potential clients are spoilt for choice, so it’s a important tool in generating credibility and trust.” Sophie Pagett, Manager of Freshwater Salon
THE FUTURE OF SKIN PREPARATION THERMAL PLUMPING GEL - PREPARES SKIN FOR EXTRACTIONS WITHOUT THE NEED FOR A STEAMER
The product helps therapists perform extractions without the use of steam, with ingredients like BHA, AHA, Aloe-vera, Chamomile, Ginger, Allantoin and Rosemary. Add to your professional treatments for a warming, stimulating and circulating effect! Perfect for all skin types and in combination with any skin care brand.
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This Co-Founder of NIXE Care chats to Anita Quade about his hemp skincare launch. I launched NIXE because… “I wanted the ability to create a magnificent range of products with a true uniqueness and backed heavily by science with a real result.”
For me it’s important to be Australian Made because… “Knowing not only the high standards we uphold in the production and manufacturing of all Australia products but having the capacity to be able to directly ensure that our products start to finish were truly exceptional and every touch point was considered.” 96
Cannaboid hemp extract is a hero ingredient because…“Of its richness in the entire spectrum of cannabinoids and wealth of health benefits, ranging from dryness, redness, psoriasis, eczema and many more. Having the capacity to legally grow, harvest, and extract the full spectrum extract is a huge advantage to be able to add this to our specially formulated range.” The biggest lesson I have learnt when launching the skincare range… “The variance struggles and issues that people struggle with in skin conditions. When you know this, you can listen and help educate them and guide them the best we can through not only the application of our products but making suggestions to improve the quality of their own skin and for a healthier life.”
For me it’s important to be Australian Made because… “Knowing not only the high standards we uphold in the production and manufacturing of all Australia products but having the capacity to be able to directly ensure that our products start to finish were truly exceptional and every touch point was considered.”
Three words that sum me up… “Caring, ambitious and gentle.” I love skincare because… “Growing up in a household with four sisters I was always introduced to products and skincare, some would say I was a bit of a guinea pig for a bit of fun for my sisters to “torture” a little bit.”
Next year I plan to… “Have NIXE Care available internationally and introduce a new line of products in the range.” I would tell this to my younger self…. “Don’t over complicate things, do the hard things first, never worry about what you can’t control.” My favourite can’t live without product is…. “Besides my NIXE Care, a good cologne. One of my favourites would be Nasomatto Blamage.”
LOVE YOUR INDUSTRY VIEWPOINT
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Owner, RefectoCil Australia
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Founder, Victoria Curtis Collection
What do you see as one of the biggest beauty trends in 2020? “I think it will be the evolution from natural beauty to clean beauty, bringing the best of nature and science together in ways that are sustainable, safe, and, most importantly, have proven efficacy. Consumers are becoming more aware of the impact their demand for natural ingredients has on the planet, and will start to look to the lab for sustainable options.”
What is one of the biggest challenges you face this year? “Now more than ever we need to be one step ahead of the game and onto new trends in the industry to ensure that we are evolving along with this ever changing environment. Offering the latest treatments and products gives us an edge over our competition, however I recommend doing your research to ensure that the trend is not only seasonal, but will in fact benefit your business and your customers long term. All decisions should be made with this in mind no matter what the industry throws at us. I encourage business owners to stay in their own lane.”
What have you learnt in business? “During my 28 years of owning my own business, my most important lessons have been to be Vita Liberata able to develop Self-Tanning Mist resilience and Encore Beauty become adaptable 1300 770 428 to an ever changing business environment whilst staying true to my core values. Believing in myself and accepting that there will always be criticisms form an integral part of this resilience. Another key lesson is acknowledging that no matter how big or important you become, you are nothing without your team.”
beauty picks YOUTH IN A JAR Want to know the secret to faking a good night’s rest and younger looking skin – check out AGELESS Total Overnight Retinol Masque – known as botox in a jar – Retinol is delivered deep into the skin to support intensive collagen remodelling. www.imageskincare.com.au
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Want to know what’s on the minds of our experts this edition? Anita Quade chats to industry leaders about their inspiration and trends.
Behind Aestheticá’s pretty exterior there’s a team of experts taking a personable and considered approach to their clients’ needs, making this salon a feast both for the eyes… and the skin.
UNIFORM STYLE Dress your salon staff for success with the incredible range from www. springspawear.com.au – made for style and functionality check out the range of tunic work uniforms and wide - crop pants in colours including black, charcoal and grey. They are made to be washed and worn!
BEAUTY & SPA Insiders 2020 FOREVER YOUNGBLOOD
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Created by Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics’ makeup artist Oriana Repoli for their latest campaign, these three on-trend looks are easier to achieve than you might think!
TAKE A SHORT drive out of Byron Bay’s bustling town centre and onward to Aestheticá – a carefully curated skin care oasis offering corneotherapeutic treatments. The clinic was founded by sisters-in-law Alexa Roetger - a registered nurse, and Kristal Smith – who has a background in beauty therapy and business. Aestheticá’s doors were opened 18 months ago with the goal of removing clients from what Alexa, who is now the salon’s sole owner, describes as the ‘rushed in and out’-style skin treatments happening in Byron. “We really wanted to focus on slowing things down and listening while appreciating dermal therapy and nursing techniques that achieve the best results, without causing undue stress or discomfort,” Alexa explained. To complete the vision, the salon’s interior was curated with a minimalist feel in mind. “Our goal was to create a space which was well thought out and designed to create a sense of calm
SINCE JANUARY, WE HAVE OFFERED CLIENTS FIVE PERCENT OFF THEIR NEXT PRODUCT PURCHASE FOR EMPTIES RETURNED TO CLINIC TO BE RECYCLED BY SUSTAINABLE SALONS. THE TIME FOR CHANGE IS NOW.
“This classic look centres around the staple beauty product in every makeup bag – the perfect red lipstick. To achieve this look, I pumped up the shimmery shades on the eyelids and added a red lipstick that complimented each model’s skin tone. Youngblood boasts a range of red lipsticks with warm, cool and neutral undertones – ensuring there’s the perfect red for everyone! For a long-lasting red lip, I recommend prepping lips with our Stay Put Eye Primer to ensure staying power and strong colour payoff, and lining lips with our ‘Truly Red’ Lip Liner before applying your lipstick.”
Following on from the success of last year’s inaugural BEAUTY & SPA Insiders summit we heard the call for more. This year the industry event is back with a stellar lineup of speakers to help educate and inspire. We take a look at two speakers on the programme. Photographer: Amanda Harvie | Makeup Direction: Carina Rodriguez | Hair: Alyssa Gonzalez
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in their own lane.” business owners to stay at us. I encourage what the industry throws this in mind no matter should be made with long term. All decisions and your customers benefit your business seasonal, but will in fact the trend is not only research to ensure that recommend doing your competition, however I us an edge over our and products gives the latest treatments environment. Offering with this ever changing we are evolving along industry to ensure that onto new trends in the ahead of the game and we need to be one step “Now more than ever you face this year? biggest challenges What is one of the
Photographer: Amanda Harvie | Makeup Direction: Carina Rodriguez | Hair: Alyssa Gonzalez
Clarins 1800 861 888 lashes from moisture exposure. provides a resilient barrier to guard Perfect 4D Waterproof Mascara The blue lotus wax in Clarins’ Wonder NEW WONDER
latest campaign, these three on-trend looks are easier to achieve than you might think! Created by Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics’ makeup artist Oriana Repoli for their
HORDES OF SALON owners and managers, clinicians, cosmetic nurses and beauty-industry spectators have had May 25 penciled in their diary since the announcement of the 2020 BEAUTY & SPA Insiders event. And now, early-bird ticket sales and registration are officially open. Those that register early for the highly anticipated event will secure their ticket for $295, pocketing a saving of $100. Brought to you by Australia’s leading B2B magazines for the aesthetics industry, Professional Beauty and SPA + CLINIC, BEAUTY & SPA Insiders brings together industry Australia experts forCurtis a day of inspiring talks, innovative ideas, and Mintel APAC RefectoCil Collection Trends Manager, Founder, Victoria Owner, engaging conversations. YOUNG AKKAD CURTIS ELISHA JANINE VICTORIA owner of Skin By Sarah Hudson will be Sarah Hudson, the MC of the BEAUTY & SPA Insiders programme taking place at Woolloomooloo’s Ovolo. Attendees will be treated to presentations by the industry’s most respected identities for a inspiration and trends. day of talks and panels. Among the speakers will be Victoria edition? Anita Quade chats to industry leaders about their Curtis, founder of Victoria Curtis Cosmetics; director of Want to know what’s on the minds of our experts this education at Dermalogica, Emma Hobson; founder of Fitness that no matter how is acknowledging Another key lesson of this resilience. an integral part be criticisms form there will always and accepting that Believing in myself to my core values. whilst staying true business environment to an ever changing become adaptable resilience and able to develop have been to be important lessons business, my most of owning my own “During my 28 years learnt in business? What have you
sustainable options.” to look to the lab for planet, and will start ingredients has on the demand for natural of the impact their becoming more aware Consumers are have proven efficacy. most importantly, sustainable, safe, and, in ways that are and science together the best of nature clean beauty, bringing natural beauty to the evolution from “I think it will be in 2020? beauty trends one of the biggest What do you see as
applying your lipstick.” strong colour payoff, and lining lips with our ‘Truly Red’ Lip Liner before prepping lips with our Stay Put Eye Primer to ensure staying power and the perfect red for everyone! For a long-lasting red lip, I recommend red lipsticks with warm, cool and neutral undertones – ensuring there’s complimented each model’s skin tone. Youngblood boasts a range of up the shimmery shades on the eyelids and added a red lipstick that makeup bag – the perfect red lipstick. To achieve this look, I pumped “This classic look centres around the staple beauty product in every
EMMA HOBSON Director of Education Asia Pacific Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute
IS NOW. SALONS. THE TIME FOR CHANGE RECYCLED BY SUSTAINABLE RETURNED TO CLINIC TO BE PURCHASE FOR EMPTIES OFF THEIR NEXT PRODUCT OFFERED CLIENTS FIVE PERCENT SINCE JANUARY, WE HAVE was well thought out and designed to create a sense of calm a minimalist feel in mind. “Our goal was to create a space which To complete the vision, the salon’s interior was curated with undue stress or discomfort,” Alexa explained. nursing techniques that achieve the best results, without causing things down and listening while appreciating dermal therapy and happening in Byron. “We really wanted to focus on slowing owner, describes as the ‘rushed in and out’-style skin treatments removing clients from what Alexa, who is now the salon’s sole Aestheticá’s doors were opened 18 months ago with the goal of Smith – who has a background in beauty therapy and business. by sisters-in-law Alexa Roetger - a registered nurse, and Kristal offering corneotherapeutic treatments. The clinic was founded and onward to Aestheticá – a carefully curated skin care oasis TAKE A SHORT drive out of Byron Bay’s bustling town centre
and not be considered your typical ‘beauty/injectables’ clinic which can be cold… we made sure that when you walk into our clinic there is an instant sense of calm and warmth.” Florals, dried palm spears and hessian bowls are set against crisp white walls, and Roman arches carve out a hallway leading to private treatment rooms. “Our interior has become a main focus for our clinic with pictures shared on various platforms every day. [It has] definitely contributed to our very fast growth.” Staff also dress in white linens to provide a relaxed alternative to a traditional clinical uniform. The Aestheticá team are trained to service clients of all ages with a carefully curated skin care regime. “Each and every one of our treatment pathways is tailored to the individual. After all, every skin is a unique fingerprint.” The team of eight dermal therapists are trained in corneotherapy and have forgone the use of lasers in favour of a simple treatment menu that is entirely customisable. “Our vast range of education over both beauty and nursing industries meant we wanted to offer great skin treatments, a holistic approach to skin heath and real results,” Alexa said, “which is why we settled with customised skin treatments and cosmetic injectables.” The salon chose to work with skincare brand, dermaviduals. “From the start we were on the hunt for an amazing skincare company with incredible results and support for a new little business like ours.” Alexa explained that they had felt supported by the brand from the get-go – “the education we received, although a very steep learning curve, was second to none. As we also use MAX LED in our clinic and were fortunate enough
we also use MAX LED in our clinic and were fortunate enough although a very steep learning curve, was second to none. As by the brand from the get-go – “the education we received, business like ours.” Alexa explained that they had felt supported company with incredible results and support for a new little “From the start we were on the hunt for an amazing skincare The salon chose to work with skincare brand, dermaviduals. treatments and cosmetic injectables.” Alexa said, “which is why we settled with customised skin treatments, a holistic approach to skin heath and real results,” and nursing industries meant we wanted to offer great skin customisable. “Our vast range of education over both beauty of lasers in favour of a simple treatment menu that is entirely therapists are trained in corneotherapy and have forgone the use every skin is a unique fingerprint.” The team of eight dermal of our treatment pathways is tailored to the individual. After all, with a carefully curated skin care regime. “Each and every one The Aestheticá team are trained to service clients of all ages traditional clinical uniform. also dress in white linens to provide a relaxed alternative to a [It has] definitely contributed to our very fast growth.” Staff our clinic with pictures shared on various platforms every day. treatment rooms. “Our interior has become a main focus for walls, and Roman arches carve out a hallway leading to private dried palm spears and hessian bowls are set against crisp white clinic there is an instant sense of calm and warmth.” Florals, which can be cold… we made sure that when you walk into our and not be considered your typical ‘beauty/injectables’ clinic
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and the skin. considered approach to their clients’ needs, making this salon a feast both for the eyes… Behind Aestheticá’s pretty exterior there’s a team of experts taking a personable and
Byron Bay OASIS
www.imageskincare.com.au collagen remodelling. deep into the skin to support intensive as botox in a jar – Retinol is delivered Overnight Retinol Masque – known skin – check out AGELESS Total good night’s rest and younger looking Want to know the secret to faking a YOUTH IN A JAR
“I’ve had the pleasure of being in this fantastic industry for over 30 years; it’s allowed me to acquire an extensive range of knowledge with a definite global perspective in all aspects of the professional skincare industry. My area of expertise focuses on effective business strategies and insights into future trends, all of which have led me to speak on many platforms around the world including television and radio interviews, I have been an invited speaker for industry trade shows and national congresses of C.I.D.S.C.O, I.S.P.A. A.S.P.A. and Cosmetex.”
feeling, no matter the weather. Hold on to that fresh tan
washed and worn! charcoal and grey. They are made to be - crop pants in colours including black, range of tunic work uniforms and wide style and functionality check out the springspawear.com.au – made for with the incredible range from www. Dress your salon staff for success UNIFORM STYLE
Professional Beauty’s digital products ensure you stay connected. They are available 24/7 to deliver the latest news and industry trends FREE! Start exploring now:
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index Advanced Cosmeceuticals
6, 7, 61, 69, 73
Advanced Nutrition (Margi Fox Dist)
CanGrow 79 Cynosure 53 Derma Aesthetics (Dermaviduals)
Dermaenergy 81 Dermalogica Ex-Imports
8, 9 1, 28, 29, 30, 31, 99
Fresha 51 Health Focused Manufacturers
ISMI 95 Kitomba 85 Lycon
Professional Beauty Solutions
SkinCeuticals Sothys Ultraceuticals
4, 5 2, 3, 57 46, 47
Venus 23 Victoria Curtis
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