Professional Beauty November-December 2019

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NOV•DEC 2019 INFORMATION. INNOVATION. INSPIRATION.

MEET THE SKIN EXPERTS

PARTY SEASON The hottest new makeup

SOCIAL NETWORKING

Boost your business on Instagram


THE GOLD STANDARD

For Body Contouring Head-to-toe Clatuu Alpha fat freezing is the latest and most advanced non-invasive procedure that uses a controlled device to freeze and destroy fat. 360° Surround Cooling Technology unlike the conventional two-side cooling methods, increases efficiency. Depending on the area targeted, your treatment will take between 40-60 minutes.

HOW SLIMS YOU DOWN

THE SCOOP ON HOW THE CLATUU ALPHA FREEZES AWAY STUBBORN FAT. 1

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You may struggle with stubborn fat even after jogging and dieting.

The CLATUU Alpha suctions your skin and subcutaneous layers.

Cooling energy then freezes fat deposits to induce apoptosis.

Crystallized fat cells die off through the body’s natural metabolism.

Remaining fat in the target area becomes leaner and less dense.

Combine with your healthy regimen to look slimmer and confident.

BELIEVE IN COOL FREEZE YOUR FAT AWAY

COOLING FROM CHIN TO KNEES

LUNCHTIME PROCEDURE

ZERO DOWNTIME


Applicators Optimised for Any Treatment After laborious testing and research, each individual cooling cup has been ergonomically designed to adhere to each curve of the body. The CLATUU Alpha has been optimised to achieve desired outcomes from head to toe.

Proven Results

Baseline

Post 1st session

Baseline

6 Months Post Procedure

1300 346 448

info@cryomed.com.au | cryomed.com.au


Lycon’s Hybrid Hot Waxes LYCON’s range of Hybrid Hot Waxes are super smooth, ultra-pliable and easily removed, without breaking or tearing! Ideal for delicate areas including Brazilians, or all waxing on the face and body. LYCON’s Hybrid Hot Waxes are a precise blend of LYCON’s traditional hot wax and new generation resin wax formulas. Used like hot wax, LYCON Hybrid Hot Waxes offer the same shrink-wrapping performance of LYCON traditional hot wax, removing hair as short as 1mm, plus the extra pliability and ease of use that synthetic blends offer. Set to revolutionise male grooming, LYCON’s newest addition to the hybrid family is MANifico Hybrid Hot Wax. Gentle on sensitive skin and strong enough for the toughest hairs. LYCOdream Hybrid Hot Wax, one of LYCON’s best-selling waxes, has been scientifically crafted to nurture and soothe skin while waxing. Pinkini Brazilian Hybrid Hot Wax is formulated with LYCON’s unique Titanium Dioxide technology and caring Argan Oil, Calendula and Chamomile. Pinkini Brazilian Hybrid Hot Wax protects, soothes and hydrates delicate skin while waxing.

P 07 3004 6200 E wax@lycon.com.au lycon.com.au



CONTENTS

November/December 2019 7 8 10 18

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Editor’s letter What’s on PB radar News Cover story – Elleebana’s Rising Popularity 20 Viewpoint – Beauty Goals 22 Skincare 34 Makeup - Day to Night 36 Makeup - Hero Products 38 New Makeup 40 Nails - Christmas Colours 42 Nails - New Products 44 Tanning 46 Style File - Danielle Robinson 48 ACMUSE celebrates 40 years 50 Salon Profile - Sanctuary Skincare 52 Profile - Dr Claudia Aguirre 55 Roundtable - Skincare Specialists 68 Salon Profile - Miss Franc 70 Medik8’s Co-Founder Daniel Isaacs 72 Carley Stewart explains the basics of skincare 74 How to boost festive sales 76 Increase your business via social media 78 Career How I Got Here - KerryAnne Raiola 80 Turning your beauty passion into a business 84 Interiors - All Saints Skin Clinic 86 Waxing 90 Technology 92 Wellness 94 Taiwan Expo 96 Beauty Escape - Hot Springs 100 Last Word - Sophie Monk ON THE COVER

The trend for lifted lashes and extensions continues to dominate the beauty sphere. We chat to homegrown brand Elleebana about what is new and what is to come in the year ahead on page 18.

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PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA BHA MEDIA PUBLISHER + COMMERCIAL MANAGER Glenn Silburn EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Michelle Ruzzene mruzzene@intermedia.com.au ONLINE AND NEWS EDITOR Jenny Berich jberich@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic ACTING CIRCULATIONS MANAGER Troy Brookes subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

EDITOR’S LETTER

WELCOME TO THE final edition of 2019. It’s been another year of incredible beauty launches, innovations and business expansion for those in the skincare industry. The best part about working in beauty is that it’s ever evolving and fast paced. While trends come and go it’s safe to say brows and lashes are here to stay. These categories have continued to dominate and are at the forefront of the beauty arena. We have seen dedicated salons launch, young entrepreneurs opening up their own signature spaces and a range of products introduced to the market to accommodate the rising trend. This edition we chatted to one of the long-standing leaders in the industry, Gold Coast based brand Elleebana, who reveal what’s new for the year ahead. See page 18. This issue we also sit down with the Skincare Experts who formed the panel at our regular Industry Roundtable. Once again it was a stellar lineup of talent who shared their knowledge on all things skincare and what we can expect next year. Turn to page 55. Another trend that shows no sign of running out of charge is social media. More than ever brands are using a variety of platforms from Instagram and Facebook to reach their audience and to show off the results of their work, while engaging their followers. In light of this, we chatted to Makeup artist and Beauty Blogger Neha Hobson, who reveals the best ways for brands to connect with their audience on a social media platform. Read her tips on page 76. Salon owners are always looking for inspiration and recently we found a stunning and discreet retreat – All Saints Clinic in the leafy enclave of Double Bay. The inviting space complete with designer artworks and minimalist looks was dreamed up by interior designer to the stars Blainey North. Check out the stylish space on page 84. We would like to thank all our loyal readers for their ongoing support during 2019 and look forward to continuing our beauty journey in 2020 which promises exciting developments! FOLLOW US:

Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN

CONTRIB UTOR S

SUBSCRIPTION RATES

Dr Claudia Aguirre

1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST)

Neuroscientist and Mind-Body Expert Dr Claudia Aguirre jetted into Sydney and chatted to us about her role as part of the scientific committee of [comfort zone] and Skin Regimen – the skincare brands of the Italian Davines Group on page 52.

2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 8,656 AMAA/CAB Yearly Audit Period ending 31 March 2019.

Copyright © 2019 BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.

Carley Stewart She is the formulating scientist and Managing Director of asap skin products. Carley reveals the simple A, B, C and D’s of skincare on page 72. “Ensuring that the cosmeceutical skincare range that you stock and prescribe is as effective as possible, is essential in providing optimum skincare outcomes and results for clients,” she says.

Sophie Monk

This model, ambassador and TV presenter has had a life-long passion for makeup and recently launched her exclusive collaboration with MCoBeauty. “My approach to beauty is quick, simple and easy,” she reveals on page 100.

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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PB RADAR

On our RADAR

THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON JINGLE BELLS

Can you believe Christmas is only weeks away? It’s time to start stocking your shelves with gifting ideas. We’re loving Alpha-H’s Fan Favourites, which includes their most-loved products in mini size, perfect for any summer getaway.

SAVING SEALIFE

Shout out to Medik8, who have stated they ‘love and respect sea life’. The brand actively avoids the sunscreen filters which are associated with damage to the coral reefs, including ingredients like oxybenzone, octinoxate or nano-size zinc oxide, and instead choose to use reef safe sunscreen filters.

MAKEOVER MAGIC

Aspect, Aspect Dr and Aspect Sun have unveiled their stylish new look. The products are sure to jazz up any retail space and look great on the bathroom shelf.

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QUICK FLICK is sold EVERY MINUTE

somewhere in the world BEAUTY BREW

NAIL TRENDS

If you’re into nails, make sure you follow www.instagram.com/ so_nailicious/ for the latest in nail designs, nail art tutorials, trends and inspo.

so_nailicious

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Used coffee grounds create considerable waste around the world causing a significant toll on the environment. Innisfree is helping to tackle the problem with their limited-edition Recycled Coffee Collection, made using discarded coffee.

FOLLOW PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY: facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyAust @pro_beauty_aus @ProBeauty_Aust linkedin.com/company/professional-beauty



NEWS FIRE & ICE FACIAL ARRIVES IN OZ Ten years after its launch in the US, the Fire & Ice facial, the ‘red carpet’ treatment beloved by celebrities such as Halle Berry and Gwyneth Paltrow, has finally arrived in Australia. High Tech Medical has taken on the distributorship of the treatment (produced by iS Clinical) and Sydney’s Amirova Cosmetic Clinic is the first to offer it to consumers. The 60-minuted minute facial combines two masks – the Intensive Resurfacing Mask (ingredients include sugarcane extracts, Green Tea Leaf Extract, Vitamin A and B3) which feels hot and tingling (Fire) and the Rejuvenating Masque ingredients include Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, Green Tea extract, Liquorice Root extract , Grape Seed extract and Rosemary Leaf extract) which feels cool and soothing (Ice) According to iS Clinical, the facial resurfaces the skin leaving it smooth and bright with little or no down time. Amirova Cosmetic Clinic director Sofia Amirova said she decided to introduce the facial and the iS Clinical skincare range as she likes to ensure that her salon can offer clients the “latest and most innovative technology and skincare available on the market”. “I love the fact that the results of the Fire & Ice Facial can be seen immediately,” she said. “My clients notice a dramatic improvement in their complexion straight away – their pores look tighter; the wrinkles around the eyes look less obvious and their whole face looks firmer, lifted and more radiant.” She said her clients also appreciate the fact that the treatment has “zero down time”. “Today what most people lack is time so they want a quick fix. “They want a quick fix and with so many events happening in the leadup festive season, I figured this will be a perfect time to add the treatment to my salon menu”.

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BAD BROW JOBS ARE A GROWING BUSINESS – FOR SOME As the demand for tattooed brows continues to rise around the country so too does the number of bad brow jobs – and the demand for their removal. For example, Suzie Mcintosh, the owner of Suzie Mcintosh Brows in Sydney and Melbourne, has experienced major growth in her brow tattoo removal and correction services since she launched them in 2016. She says she launched the service to meet demand from clients who were going to her “wanting to have their brows re-done after having them done elsewhere”. “Unfortunately I cannot just go and tattoo over someone else’s work so I was turning away so many clients that I couldn’t help. I therefore went to LA and undertook further training to learn the best techniques in cosmetic tattoo removal.” Since introducing “a saline removal method” the service become a major part of the salon’s business. “We require all new clients who have had their brows cosmetically tattooed at another salon, to have their existing tattooing removed before we will re-do them,” she says. Suzy says the two main reasons her clients want their brow tattoos removed are “discolouration where the dye in the tattoo turns into blue or green” and/or “they are unhappy with the total looks as they have poorly done/uneven brows”. “Some clients will want to have their tattooing removed and just leave them in a more natural state, how more often than not they opt to have one of our brow artists re-do their tattooing once their brows have healed from the removal procedure.”

DERMATOLOGISTS DISH DIRT ON CLEAN BEAUTY Dermatologists have ditched the dirt on clean beauty products warning that natural does not mean safe in JAMA (the Journal of the American Medical Association). In an editorial published in JAMA Dermatol, Dr Courtney Blair Rubin and Dr Bruce Brod from the University of Pennsylvania argue that the clean beauty/natural skincare market, which accounted for over a quarter of America’s skincare sales last year, is growing largely due to misleading, and sometimes dangerous, claims. “The clean beauty movement has demonised hundreds of compounds” but “an arbitrary designation of clean or natural does not necessarily make products safer for consumers,” the article said. “The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has failed to define clean and natural, leaving these labels open to interpretation by non-dermatologist retailers, bloggers and celebrities who have set out to define ‘clean beauty’ for themselves. “There seems to be discordance between what dermatologists know about the science of the skin and what is being disseminated to consumers through the clean beauty movement. “Many of the ingredients that have been denounced by clean beauty evangelists seem to be selected haphazardly as companies attempt to ‘greenwash’ their products to make them more attractive to conscientious shoppers.”


D I S C OV E R O U R N E W P R O F E S S I O N A L P E E L S Medik8 professional peels are a comprehensive range of easy-to-apply blended and single-acid peels suitable for every skin type, from sensitive to resilient. All peels contain Time Release technology to minimise discomfort, while maximising performance. A bespoke peeling programme can be created using an innovative peel layering system to target the appearance of specific skin concerns, from wrinkles and pigmentation to visible blemishes.

www.medik8.com.au

@medik8australia

1800 242 011


NEWS LE BEAUTY HELPS POLISHED MAN Le Beauty, the Melbourne-based beauty wholesaler, has launched a professional nail polish collection to help end violence against children. In partnership with Hollywood Nails, the company has launched the Polish Up collection of five mini-polishes and will donate 100 percent of sales to the Polished Man. Launched in 2013, the Polish Man campaign asks people to paint one nail blue (to represent the one child in five who dies every five minutes as a result of violence) and donate a gold coin. The campaign was created by Elliot Costello during a visit to Cambodia where he met a young girl named Thea “who after playing noughts and crosses for hours, drew a blue heart on his palm and then painted all of his nails blue”. After learning that Thea had been physically and sexually assaulted for two years by a director at her former orphanage, Elliot instantly made the decision to paint one nail to remember her, and later when he learned of the extent of child violence, he created the Polished Man movement to help all children who are victims of violence. Funds raised through Polished Man are channelled into trauma prevention and trauma recovery programs around the world including the Australian Childhood Foundation, SAMSN (Survivors & Mates Support Network) and Hagar Australia. Le Beauty marketing manager Emma White said the company decided to support the Polished Man as it had always “had a spot in our Le Beauty heart for great causes”. With our passion for nails, our love for the cause and our need to make a difference, the choice to stand behind the Polished Man campaign was an easy one.” White said the company has “created 1000 limited edition polish packs and will be stoked to sell the lot to be able to pass on $50,000 to the Polished Man”.

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ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS CELEBRATES TRIPLE WIN Advanced Cosmeceuticals, the distributor of six cosmeceutical skincare brands in Australia, has won three major awards at the 2019 Medik8 Distributor Conference in London. Bryce Hadley was named Business Development Manager of the Year, Sonia Swift was named Brand Guardian of the Year, and SA’s Elixir Skin Fitness was named Clinic of the Year. Hadley said he was honoured to accept his award. “I couldn’t have done it without the support of my incredible clients from all over WA, our dedicated team at Advanced Cosmeceuticals, our innovative Medik8 partners in the UK and most importantly my amazing boss Catherine Biedermann who elevates and supports me personally and professionally and is truly an inspiration to work for,” he said. Swift said she was thrilled to win her award. “It has been an amazing journey, growing and evolving with Medik8,” she said. Elixir Skin Fitness owner Rose Bonasera said she was honoured to win her award. “It’s such a pleasure to work with an amazing company and brand that truly supports my clinic philosophy,” she said. Biedermann said all three awards were testament to the hard work and dedication of her team and clinic partners.

DERMAENERGY UNVEILS BLACK LABEL Two years after launching its medical skincare range targeted at millennials, Australia’s Dermaenergy is expanding its offering with a ‘Black Label’ line targeted at the “more mature luxury seeking consumer”. According to Dermaenergy founder Sean Abel, the new Black Label line is a step up from the budget-friendly White Label line. “It’s phase two of Dermaenergy’s plan to offer medical-grade products for every step of a customer’s skincare journey,” he says. “Targeting everyone aged 35 and up, Black Label aims to resolve skin conditions rather than manage skin types.” Abel says that although both product lines feature Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) and active ingredients the Black Label products are “stronger formulas”. “When ATP is featured in White Label products it is usually at a concentration of one percent compared with the four percent used in most Black Label products. Similarly the quantity of actives used in White Label products is doubled in Black Label products. “Dermaenergy Black Label is serious skincare,with serious names and serious results,” says Abel.



NEWS BIO BEAUTY ENTERS MEDI-PEDI MARKET Bio Beauty Concepts has taken on the distributorship of Footlogix - “the world’s first and only pediceutical foot care line”. Bio Beauty managing director Talya Bergman said the company, which has distributed Bio Sculpture nail products around the country for over 20 years, took on the footcare brand as it “empowers salon owners and nail technicians with products and education to elevate pedicures to a new standard of excellence”. “Today’s knowledgeable nail technicians demand a product that is easy to use, cost effective and reputable but most importantly, a product that really works,” she said. “Footlogix Pediceuticals provide all this and much more with revolutionary and proprietary technologies such as Dermal Infusion Technology and Spiraleen.” She said the range provides transformational results for a variety of skin conditions ranging from simple dryness to more severe conditions resulting from Diabetes. Created by Dr Katharin von Gavel, a leading American foot care practitioner and educator, in 2007, Footlogix was specifically developed to address “the challenging needs within the foot care industry”. Dr von Gavel said the formulations have been clinically proven to transform the skin and nails on the feet. “Footlogix products are so results-driven that it really does need to be seen to be believed,” she said.

CALLING ALL LASH QUEENS In an Australian first, Elleebana and Lashjoy have joined forces to put Australian lash talent on the global stage. The two companies are on the look out for two “outstanding lash stylists” to represent Australia at next year’s Lash World Cup in Amsterdam. According to Elleebana director Otto Mitter and LashJoy owner Joy Crossingham, the World Cup, which will be held in February 15-16, is an outstanding opportunity to showcase Australian lash artists. Mitter said he was inspired to launch an Australian lash team after attending the 2018 Lash World Cup with Elleebana general manager Zoe Mitter and master trainer Jess Eaton. “We were not only impressed by the high quality produced by representatives from each country, but also the calibre of the Lash World Cup team for putting on such a prestigious event and strongly believed that Australia needed to be involved.” Lash stylists interested in joining the Australian team are invited to submit their entries via social media by tagging @elleebana and @lashjoy_ in their submissions along with the hashtag #lashworldcupaus2020. The winning stylists will receive a return flight from their capital city to Amsterdam for the Lash World Cup in February as well as five nights’ accommodation at the Van der Valk Hotel A4 Schiphol and an entry into a Lash World Cup 2020 category of their choice.

JAX WAX GOES WALKABOUT Jax Wax Australia has partnered with Walkabout Barber Enterprises to provide waxing services for indigenous men in rural communities around Australia. As part of it Indigenous Support Project, Jax Wax will provide “all wax and ancillary products as well as training” to Walkabout free of charge so the company can provide facial waxing services (including ears, nose, nostrils and brows) to their clients. Established by Brian Dowd two years ago, Walkabout Barber runs a flagship barbershop in Newcastle’s Warners Bay and the Walkabout Barber trailer which “travels anywhere” in Australia. Normal barbering prices apply to clients in the Warners Bay shop but the trailer, which works with community organisations and service providers, offers 60 free haircuts and a 1.5-hour Trauma & Recovery Workshop per day in to the communities it visits. Brian says he decided to launch the trailer shortly after opening his barbershop as it attracted many customers from nearby towns. “I saw a need to expand the business to service these people both for haircuts and mental support,” he says. “The barber’s chair is a magical experience especially for men. “I’ve built the business as a healing space, for men and women to have a chat. “Our main objective is to make people fresh on the outside, and to come out fresher on the inside.” For more information email walkaboutbarber@gmail.com

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NEWS CHRISTINA LAUNCHES ILLUSTRIOUS TREATMENT Christina Cosmeceuticals has launched an insalon treatment that promises to de-pigment and whiten the skin for less than $20 per treatment. Based on four separate techniques (inhibition of tyrosinase, inhibition of melanin transfer, absorption of melanin and degradation of melanin), the new treatment was developed to overcome the limitations of previous in-salon whitening treatments. Matoyla Kollaras, the managing director of Skin Factors (Christina’s distributor in Australia) says the treatment offers salons and their clients three main advantages. “The first advantage is that it just works. “The second advantage is that it is a powerful one-hour system which costs the therapist less than $20.00 per treatment – an excellent return on investment! “The third advantage is that the highly effective homecare is extremely affordable.” Kollaras stresses that Illustrious is more than just a pigmentation treatment. It is also a powerful anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory system,” she said. “We call it the ‘WOW Facial’ because we guarantee your clients will be wowed from the very first treatment and it will open the door for re-bookings.”

WOMEN DITCH COMPLICATED SKINCARE ROUTINES In a worrying sign for skincare companies, it seems Marie Kondo’s decluttering effect is beginning to impact on women’s bathroom cabinets too. According to new research by Mintel, the days of bathroom cabinets packed with 5-step, 7-step or even 10 step-skincare routines could be over as many women are “tired of complicated facial skincare routines”. The market research consultancy’s report on facial skincare in Britain, found that over the 12 months ending in May, almost three in ten women (28 percent) reduced the number of products in their facial skincare routine, with 20-29-year olds most likely to have simplified their routines (54 percent). The proportion of women using just one product to cleanse their face has risen from 25 percent to 28 percent while the proportion of women using four or more products to cleanse has fallen sharply from 26 percent to 18 percent during the same period. The “biggest facial cleansing casualties” were facial cleansing wash (from 55 percent to 50 percent), facial cleansing wipes (54 percent to 43 percent) and facial toners (29 percent to 25 percent). Other facial care products that have also “taken a tumble” in the 12 month period included day cream/lotion (from 66 percent to 60 percent), night cream/lotion (48 percent to 44 percent), BB, CC and DD creams (21 percent to 15 percent).

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MURAD REVEALS ALL Murad has revealed all the ingredients contained in its skincare products. In a first for a major prestige skincare brand, the Unilever-owned brand has added a full ingredient list for each of its products on its new website. The move is part of its parent company’s “ingredient transparency initiative” which was launched in 2017. At the time, Unilever said it would go beyond labelling requirements to provide in-depth product and ingredient information including “fragrance ingredient disclosure; a ‘What’s in our Products’ section on Unilever websites; and enhanced fragrance allergen information. Unilever chief research and development officer David Blanchard said the British-Dutch transnational, which owns more than 3000 home and beauty and personal care brands, believes that providing such transparency will help build further trust in the company and its brands. “We are committed to ensuring people have the information they need to choose the right product for them so that is exactly what we are doing, going the extra mile beyond what is already on the label.” Murad’s new website boasts more than 150 new product pages aimed at “providing increasingly discerning skincare consumers with all of the information they need in the shopping process”. Each new product page feature “a full list of ingredients that the product is formulated with” as well as “educational content on the effectiveness and safety of Murad’s resultsdriven clinical formulations”. The website also allows shoppers to browse offerings by key ingredients and skincare concern or by “formulated without” ingredients. Murad CEO Michelle Shigemasa said the “digital flagship” takes the brand’s e-commerce from transactional to conversational”. “We’ve designed a website with the consumer in mind,” she said.


experience the cosmedical difference O Cosmedics is Australia’s leading Professional Skin Care chosen by skin experts worldwide. Made for the SKINTELLECTUAL using functional actives to achieve cell optimisation and normal skin function resulting in skin transformations, skin health, skin youth and skin confidence. Australian Made, Cruelty Free, Vegan & Gluten Friendly, Clean Beauty.

TO BOOK YOUR PERSONAL PRESENTATION AND RECEIVE A FREE TRIAL KIT CONTACT US AND QUOTE ‘PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY’ OCOSMEDICS.COM

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02 9712 8188


COVER STORY

Elleebana’s

RISING POPULARITY The trend for lifted lashes and extensions continues to dominate the beauty sphere. This homegrown Australian brand is going global with its products and reveals the latest innovations to Anita Quade. IT’S ALREADY BEEN a massive year for Elleebana. Their lash lift products are seemingly everywhere and still rising in popularity. They’ve just hosted #browqueen, Kelley Baker on an Australian Tour, their training courses are ever expanding for their team of Master Trainers and the world is really standing up (or should we say lifting up) and taking notice of this Gold Coast based brand that is going global in a big way. They are literally the coconut oil of beauty manufacturers. Put them on anything and it’ll make it look better! So… Here’s what’s new, what’s to come and what you need to know about everything Elleebana.

What’s New Elleebana?

For best results and the ultimate “on fleek” lashes, Elleebana also recommends their Elleebana ISO approved, medical-grade adhesive. All their eyelash adhesive have been thoroughly tested for retention, flexibility, viscosity and most importantly customer safety and offer a range of products that include fast-drying, sensitive and clear adhesives.

Elleebana Lash Extensions

Elleebana ReGen

During their USA Trainers Symposium earlier this year, Elleebana launched their new range of lash extensions to the global market and the amazing results being achieved speak for themselves. You only have to glance at the cover image of this magazine to be convinced. Yes, there are so many great extensions on the market and preference is up to the individual, but if you haven’t tried or tested the Elleebana extensions yet, give them a go. Elleebana pride themselves on quality and their new lash range certainly doesn’t disappoint. Here’s why we love them and what’s on offer:

The demand for offering Lash Lift services worldwide has grown significantly due to the overwhelming popularity using the Elleebana system. As technology and hair science evolves, the production team at Elleebana HQ have been busy in the laboratory working with the latest materials and ingredients available in the hair and beauty industry to deliver this new advancement in lash science and lash health. Introducing Re-GEN – The plant based alternative to Keratin Treatments! Re-GEN is a Vegan, Cruelty Free, Plant Based Lash Protection System, essential for building strength in eyelashes during the lash lift treatment process. This innovative protection system is a cohesive solution packed with soy amino acids and additional pure amino acids, which are carefully selected to mimic the functional ratios in commercial human hair amino acids The Re-GEN formula also contains antioxidants, essential fatty acids, flower extracts, bark extracts, root extracts and fruit extracts essential for optimal lash health. Here’s why we love it:

• Noticeably superior quality of finish on the lash. • Hand rolled and heated to produce a curl that won’t drop. • Elleebana’s superior eyelash extensions and adhesives are produced to the highest safety standards and are exclusively made for Elleebana. • Large range that include faux mink, silk, 2D, 3D and 4D offering you all the variety for Classic, Hybrid, Russian Volume, Mega Volume and everything in between. • Lash range from 0.05mm – 0.20mm in thickness and 6mm – 14mm in length available in customised lash trays in mixed or individual lengths.

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This luxurious product is applied after the setting solution is removed and can be left on the lashes for up to 5mins for optimal lash health and a boost of moisture and hydration. If optimal lash health is important to you and your clients, then Re-GEN is the solution for you. WATCH NOW

COVER STORY

• Conditions and Promotes Healthiest Hair Growth • Boosts Moisture Content and Protects • Combats Premature Hair Loss and Promotes Hair Growth with Protection Against Damage • Nourishes and Strengthens the Hair Shaft • Eliminates Dryness and Relieves Hair Stress • Vegan Friendly – Does not contain Keratin which is an animal bi-product

Elleebana Training Academy

For more than 20 years, Elleebana has performed countless workshops with some of the world’s most respected training institutions, beauty and hair salons, day spas and wholesalers of the beauty and hair industry. So, this isn’t new news, but with Australian Training Courses being held every week in a salon near you, it’s near been easier to get qualified or refresh your skills. If you are considering further training and joining the Elleebana family of graduates, be sure to check out their Training Calendar via the Elleebana website and book yourself in. In an industry where we are all constantly learning alongside treatment and product evolution you can rest assured that you’re in the hands of the best with Elleebana. Their fully qualified, hand-picked team of Elleebana Master Trainers are among the best in the business with over 20 years industry experience & Recognised Australian Training Qualifications. The Elleebana Academy Training Courses and workshops provide world recognised skills to enabled graduates to offer in-salon Elleebana services and treatments of the highest standards. Elleebana regularly conduct workshops in lash lifting, brow henna and lash extensions with Australia’s leading beauty and hair wholesalers as well as in-salon training nationwide.

Have you met the Masters? Elleebana Extreme Styling Shields The growth and advancement in lash lift procedures around the world calls for more options and more innovations to customise for clients’ desires and a myriad of eye shapes. Introducing Elleebana “Extreme” styling shields for lash lift. Elleebana set the worldwide trend for CCurvature lash lift styling with the Elleebana silicone rod design and now in a quest to offer clients more options Elleebana offer the new “Extreme” styling shields. Created with their own design and curvature, the shields allow for a more dramatic lift for clients that have an open eye shape. The new Elleebana Extreme Styling Shields allow for a more dramatic lift for various eye shapes and are available in small, medium and large. Elleebana orange for stand out lash visuals, the smooth quality silicone finish assists in the separation of lashes. Elleebana’s range of products are available via over 100 distributors Australia-wide.

When you’re producing high quality product that allows for superior quality results you want to ensure salons and technicians are getting the most out of them. The Elleebana products differ in many ways from other lash lift and henna brow systems, so Elleebana has developed their own training courses to ensure people are learning to use the products correctly for optimal results. But Director, Otto Mitter can’t be everywhere at once so…enter the Elleebana Australian Master Trainer’s. Handpicked and trained by Otto himself, the team of Elleebana ninja technicians travel Australia weekly to share Elleebana treatment processes and their exclusive tips and tricks with the masses. You only have to follow @elleebana to become aware of the amazing work these super talented Elleebana experts are doing and the way in which they are offering assistance to the Australian beauty community through their #askelleebana Instagram sessions. Whether you are Elleebana trained or not (you really should check out their Academy Training Courses) they are there to answer queries and troubleshoot treatments for anyone who reaches out. The Master Trainers (pictured below) are always available to assist with technical support, so the next time you are wondering about anything Elleebana, be sure to reach out to this expert team for the answers either via @ elleebana instagram or facebook. n Visit the @elleebana events Facebook page or check out the full training calendar for locations near you at www.elleebana.com Elleebana Master Trainer Jessica Eaton Cover Image Lash Artist

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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VIEWPOINT

Beauty GOALS A new survey has found women are in constant search of beauty with many admitting they would go to any lengths to achieve their version of perfection. We take a look at the recent findings. ALMOST HALF OF young Australian women are prepared to do almost anything to look beautiful, according to new research. Conducted by Pure Profile for Andalou Naturals, the survey of a representative sample of over 2000 women found that 46 percent of 18-34-year-old women will go to any length to achieve their perception of beauty, with 48 percent saying they feel more empowered when they have good skin. Seventy percent of the young women said the overwhelming source of pressure to look good comes from their own high expectations while 30 percent said it comes from social media. Whatever the source, the researchers noted that “the pressure to look good leads a quarter of all women (1865+) to undergo a cosmetic procedure, with almost one in five (19 percent) undergoing invasive treatments despite 94 percent claiming they “prefer the natural look” and 84 percent saying “we are taking cosmetic procedures too far”. Commenting on the findings, Melbourne based Clinical psychologist, Dr Zac Elizabeth Buchanan, says the research shows that women are still being “largely objectified by society”.

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“It starts from an early age; from being praised for being a ‘pretty girl’, to being repeatedly told by the media that in order to be successful, admired, or be treated with value, you must look ‘perfect’,” she says. “Embracing one’s beauty should not come at the cost of your self-worth, women should be sure they are doing it to nourish and care for themselves,” says Dr Buchanan. Noting that Australians spent an estimated $1 billion on cosmetic surgeries and procedures last year, with $350 million spent on wrinkle reduction procedures from Botox alone, the researchers said around half of all the women surveyed said they want to make a switch to natural beauty products although a quarter believe they won’t be as effective. n

DR NAOMI

Cosmetic Doctor, Founder of The Manse Clinic “At our clinic, we only treat over 18s with injectables. We do this because we have to draw the line somewhere and we made the decision to choose a conservative place. We get girls under 18 requesting lips etc and just say to them “book an appointment to come back for your 18th birthday”. I think it’s great because it gives these girls something to look forward to. I definitely understand those who want procedures before they are 18 though, and this makes the decision difficult. I asked my under 18 followers what they thought of our policy on only treating over 18s, and interestingly, the majority were supportive of our decision.”


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Hold TIGHT Help your clients achieve firmer, younger looking skin with these game-changing products

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ABOVE ActivLayr 5 Second Nano Collagen Boost Revolution Fibres Limited 0011 64 9 835 4805 Dermalogica Phyto-Nature Firming Serum - Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Linda Meredith V-Tox - BLC Cosmetics 02 8667 4695 Dermaviduals Kigelia Liposome Concentrate Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300 Divine Woman Ultra Perfecting Mask - The Divine Company 1300 416 100 Embryolisse Anti-Age Re-Densifying Serum Scotty’s Makeup & Beauty 02 9518 9000 Glo Skin Beauty Phyto-Active Firming Serum - True Solutions 1800 808 993 Hydropeptide Firm A Fix Nectar - True Solutions 1800 808 993 Indie Lee I-Waken Eye Serum - Indie Lee wholesale@indielee.com Juvena of Switzerland Décolleté Concentrate Juvena of Switzerland 1300 552 924 Kerstin Florian Caviar Night Crème - BLC Cosmetics 02 8667 4695 Mary Cohr Vital Lift Cream - Mary Cohr 03 9783 2805 Mesoestetic Collagen 360 Intensive Cream Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 PCA Skin Perfecting Neck & Décolleté Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851

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BELOW Amirova Cosmetic Clinic Irresistible You Hyaluronic and EGF Serum - Amirova Cosmetic Clinic 02 9071 8511 Dermaenergy MP Mineral Protect - Dermaenergy 1300 799 709 Dermalogica Biolumin C Serum - Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Dermaviduals Anti Wrinkle Serum Derma Aesthetics 02 9960 1300 Divine Woman Age Defying Gel Serum The Divine Company 1300 416 100 Eco by Sonya Driver Glory Oil - Eco by Sonya Driver 1300 596 118 Hydropeptide Nimni Cream - True Solutions 1800 808 993 Image The Max Stem Cell Neck Lift Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Linda Meredith Collagen Gel - BLC Cosmetics 02 8667 4695 Mary Cohr Universal Vital Essence - Mary Cohr 03 9783 2805 Mesoestetic ha densimatrix Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Retouch by Intraceuticals Lines - Intraceuticals 03 9751 8000 Ultraceuticals Ultra UV Protective Daily Mosituriser Ultraceuticals 1800 355 890 Zuii Organic Flora Luminising Crème Zuii Organic 07 5596 2319

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SKINCARE Medik8 Clarity Peptides Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 35


Makeup

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Bondi Sands Glo Lights in Bronze - Bondi Sands 1300 961 385 Eylure x Chloe Morello Milano Eyelashes - Eylure 02 9370 8000

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THE PALETTE


NAILS

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STYLE FILE

DANIELLE ROBINSON Since 2005, this artist has been indulging her passion for makeup, beauty and fashion whether working on advertising and commercial projects or gorgeous brides-to-be. During that time she has taken out accolades including 2019 Queensland Finalist for Australian Makeup Artist of the Year. She chats to Professional Beauty about her favourite things.

FAVE INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS: @tanyaguccione, @natashadenona (and she loves her products) and @hungvanngo. PERSONAL MANTRA: Audrey Hepburn’s quote: ‘Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.’

SIGNATURE LOOKS: Classic glam and glow. I love soft glam eyes, glowing skin and a subtle contour.

GO TO SUMMER LOOK: I keep makeup very sheer and bring out the eyes more with lashes than with heavy makeup.

FAVE MAKEUP PRODUCT: Charlotte Tilbury products – I purchased almost every new palette that is released and I always have at least three of Charlotte’s iconic Pillow Talk and JK Rowling lipsticks in my bag along with Charlotte’s Airbrush Finish powder compact.

CELEBRITY MAKEUP CRUSH: Bella Hadid – she can carry any look with her incredible bone structure. I love people who can carry themselves with class and style.

DREAM WEEKEND: I live in the country and love being on my property more than anything else. I love to just wear jeans, a flannette and bare feet at home.

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MAKEUP

THE SPECIAL EFFECT The Australian College of Make-Up and Special Effects known as its acronym ACMUSE, will be celebrating 40 years of education within the make-up industry. Scott Lattimer reflects on how the industry has changed. WHAT BETTER TIME to reflect on where we are now and how the industry has changed over that time than our 40th birthday celebrations. Formally known as Film Make-Up Technology the name was changed to ACMUSE in 2003 to represent the college and its area of specialisation. Our goal was to establish an environment where students could flourish and the needs of the makeup industry could be fulfilled, whilst providing the highest quality of accredited vocational training.

Course of change Accredited courses and the VET space have changed considerably over the past 16 years since I took over the College in 2003 to become the leading provider of make-up and special effects. During that time, I have always felt the responsibility to ensure we not only provide the latest technique and product but also have a voice within industry and decision-makers within education. Furthermore, as a measure of our commitment to quality was being able to offer NSW Smart and Skilled and VET Student Loans (nee VET FEE-HELP) to potential students. However, at the end of 2016, the Government had different ideas. The rocky existence of VET FEE-HELP from 2008, not helped by the systematic ploy of the VET system, came to a shuddering halt at the end of 2016. All new VET FEE-HELP applications, including ACMUSE, were stopped. I remember confusion among training providers and students who were disheartened by their experience and developed distrust in the VET sector that I am so passionate about. The scheme cost taxpayers more than $7.5 billion and history will show a lack of safeguards made it too easy for unreliable operators to take advantage of the system.

A program reborn The program was relaunched in 2017 as VET Student Loans by the Turnbull Government, with tougher entry requirements for providers. I’m pleased to say that ACMUSE applied to the new scheme in September 2017 and was granted a contract for 2018. So, too, we were successful in a NSW Smart

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and Skilled contract in 2016. The NSW Government’s Smart and Skilled began in January 2015 to provide subsidised VET qualifications based on a provider’s demonstrated quality and capability. We were allocated funding to deliver Certificate IV and Diploma courses, as well as accredited short courses for MUA’s continuing professional development. ACMUSE is committed to offer training not only to new entrants but ensure that dedicated professionals are up skilled for influx of work opportunities. This is part of our proactivity as a leader within industry and education.

CURRENT OFFERINGS: • • • •

CUA41215 Certificate IV in Screen and Media CUA51015 Diploma of Screen and Media CUA60715 Advanced Diploma of Visual Arts Bespoke Industry Training for Professional Development

Professional make-up artist training Our emphasis is placed on, not how to apply make-up (the ABCs), but the training to be a professional make-up artist in a specific environment for example retail, film, TV, etc. The importance for students to graduate with the ability to match their qualification is crucial to ensure they have the understanding to satisfy their customers or their Head of Department, not only by applying makeup but knowing how to navigate in a specific working environment is crucial. For the future we are excited to be offering our first Certificate III hair course next year, this course as are all our courses, specific to a certain industry, that being the Film and TV Industry, training in the maintenance of hairstyles in terms of colour and cutting with a thorough understanding of period hairstyles.

Bespoke education ACMUSE also offers Bespoke Industry Training for makeup artists and trainers as a part of building their professional development skills. Bespoke Industry Training ensures we all keep up-to-date with technical developments and extending our knowledge in relevant fields. I am looking forward to growing the College’s ongoing relationships in the professional make-up and hair industry. I am very fortunate to be in a role that I love, nurturing people, their aspirations and dreams, and to watch the student grow to a fully fledged creative professional make-up artist, be it top of their game for MAC cosmetics or make-up on Game of Thrones is an absolute joy. n Scott Lattimer is CEO and Principal of the Australian College of Make-up and Special Effects. www.makeupcollege.com.au


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SALON VIEW

Beauty SANCTUARY Natasha Lee ditched her corporate role for beauty therapy more than 15 years ago and never looked back. The busy, working mum-of-three catches up with Michelle Ruzzene to share what life is like as owner of Sanctuary Skincare, an advanced skin clinic and beauty salon in Neutral Bay. Tell us about Sanctuary Skincare? “I have always genuinely loved customer service and looking after people. I left a corporate job many years ago to study beauty therapy, with the aim of becoming a business owner in the beauty industry. I love this industry so much, especially helping people with their skin, and I feel fortunate to be working in such a dynamic and exciting industry. I purchased Sanctuary Skincare in May 2013. I had owned and sold another beauty salon previously. I was ready to return to the industry after a few years as a full time mum. With this business I wanted to focus on achieving optimum skin health through advanced skincare solutions. We specialise in helping people with skin concerns like ageing, pigmentation, acne, rosacea and barrier dysfunction.”

Interior features? “When I first took over the business, I did a small revamp, purchasing some new furniture and painting the walls and installing new ceilings as it was quite run down. Cash flow was so tight initially, that I remember struggling to buy some basic Ikea prints to put on the walls. More recently, we completed another revamp of the interiors. I

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commissioned interior designers Woods and Warner, who have given the clinic more of an upmarket, luxurious, yet inviting feel. Think 50s glamour, hound’stooth prints, and dark navy walls inside the treatment rooms.”

Typical clientele? “I wouldn’t say we have a typical clientele. We have people coming from all walks of life, from people in the public eye, to models, to young professionals, to yummy mummies, to retirees, to students and men who like to look after their appearance. I like to think we provide the same high standard of care to everyone who walks in the doors, no matter what their age, appearance or background is.”

Tell us about your focus on skin? “When I first took over the business in 2015, it was a generalist beauty salon offering nails, spray tans, body massage, waxing, and basic facials. Over the years, I have changed the direction of the business. Now, about 90 percent of our time is spent providing skin treatments. I like to think we take our clients on a skin journey - we look after them over a period of months and years. We educate our clients on how they can optimise the heath of their skin, now and into the future. Ideally, they commit to a targeted homecare regime. That’s when the real magic happens. We also take a holistic approach and look at how factors such as stress, diet and lifestyle can affect the skin.”

Most popular treatments? “I would say we are best known for our advanced facial treatments, which are a fusion of modern technology, advanced cosmeceutical products, and the


pampering touch of a traditional French-style facial. Skin needling is also an incredibly popular treatment; it is definitely a favourite amongst the team.”

Challenges faced by your salon? “As most employers would say, it is finding good staff. I absolutely have the back of anyone whom I employ. I invest a lot of time and energy in staff development and having an awesome team environment. So it has been a personal challenge for me to deal with employees who lack my core team values of honesty, integrity and teamwork. I have learnt over the years that implementing the correct policies and procedures prevents many issues from occurring. Business coach Brigitte Benge told me recently, ‘People do what they do because they can. Because somebody lets them. Because YOU let them. Stop letting them.’ I heed those words.”

Tell us about your relationship with Refectocil? “I’ve been in the beauty industry for over 16 years now. In all that time, I have used Refectocil for lash and brow tinting. I have tried other brands, but I always seem to come back to Refectocil. I’ve found their colours to be the most natural, consistent and they have good staying power. When I do brows, I like to blend the tints, depending on the look I am trying to achieve and to give more definition to areas of the brow which need extra help. Sometimes, I’ll use up to three different colour blends on a single set of brows, in order to perfect the end result.”

Tell us about education and training? “Education and training is huge in my business. I am always seeking out the best trainers in the industry and I am all for investing in the knowledge of my team. Over the years I think my team and I have trained with most of the leading experts in our industry including Lia Trebilcock, Dr Andrew Christie, Nancy Abdou, Gay Wardle, Florence Barrett-Hill, Chiza Westcarr, Brigitte Benge and the wonderful trainers I have come into contact with over the years at AST, Claire Losciuto, Lynda Savic and Amanda Younan.”

Future plans? “My future plans are to continue to grow my current business from strength to strength. I am currently a single mum juggling my business with three kids. Life at the moment is manageable, but I have flirted with the idea of opening up in one or two more locations and will do so, should the right opportunity present. Am I slightly crazy? Perhaps.”

Achievements / awards you’ve won? “We recently won an award with Advanced Skin Technology for NSW Clinic of the Year, as well as Clinician of the Year in the Education category. In addition to that, we’ve been nominated as Finalist for the past six years in the Local Business Awards. It has been a phenomenal year for us and my current team is probably one of the best I’ve ever had, so I am hoping that 2019 will be our year to win this award.” n www.sanctuaryskincare.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 51


SKINCARE

THE SCIENCE

in skincare When Davines decided to release Skin Regimen they worked with neuroscientist and Mind-Body Expert Dr Claudia Aguirre to help develop the range. On a visit to Sydney she chats to Anita Quade about her inspiration. Tell us about how you became a neuroscientist and MindBody Expert. “I am from LA and I went to UCLA and I studied biology there and then I took an interim period and went to study mental health in Washington so it was a great place to train. From there I decided to go back to LA and study.”

So how did you get into skincare? “While I was in school I was looking into doing things that were a little different. I was young and I thought let’s do something on a different path and I decided to look into alternative fields like skincare and the science in that. I connected with the professional skincare world. I learned everything about skin and I travelled the world teaching about all the ins and outs of skin science and after that I left to expand my knowledge in the wellness world and worked with meditation, mindfulness and yoga. Everything is all linked it’s what you eat, it’s what you put on your skin and it’s how you think.”

How did you become an advisor for the new range Skin Regimen? “I was working with Comfort Zone and the concept of Skin Regimen came about and I was their target market – a millennial and a global traveler. I wanted to develop something interesting that wasn’t overly fragranced. So we decided we needed to target signs of ageing due to our lifestyle but not so much chronological ageing. I then used my knowledge and worked out how I could incorporate that into a skincare product. I was also researching mindful therapies so wanted to bring it all together so that was how the concept came about in 2019.”

How long did it take to develop? “It has been at least two years in the making starting off with a brainstorm session in Italy, working out who we are going to target. Being an Italian brand they manufacture everything over in Italy and I used to go there a lot for Comfort Zone. The ingredients I was looking at is what are the actives that can target stress and lifestyle factors. What can help you have an arsenal of ingredients that will tackle things at different times because the skin changes constantly. So that is where the boosters from the range came in, it allows clients to boost the skin as needed.”

What’s important to be aware of with skin? “I think it’s about the knowledge of skin – it is always changing and now the consumer knows that and especially the professional therapist sees that because she can see the changes in her client’s skin.”

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What was one of the biggest challenges launching the brand? “One of the challenges in general was looking at the right packaging I was mindful to look at packaging that was going to be functional and then sustainable and unisex – so they were the real challenges.”

What trends have you noticed in the skincare industry? “The trend of clean beauty has been around for a little bit of time now and it’s different from organic beauty - it’s free from excess chemicals that you may not need. We looked at how we could replace a silicone with something more natural based and that was important when we were formulating these products as we wanted no silicones. So the challenge to the lab was can you make something feel as good as silicone using other ingredients?.”

Any favourite products? “As a new mother I don’t have that much time for anything so at the most I will splash my face with water and the essence in the range for me is the easiest thing. If I wanted to take it to the next level I will just add a booster and a couple of drops of hyaluronic acid – which you need when you are sleep deprived. I’m quite minimal with skincare.” n


Today, it is all about celebrating individuality and creating a tailored service for each client. RefectoCil is focused on setting the benchmark for offering diversity across nationalities, age groups and genders to create the full spectrum of desired looks. RefectoCil is more than just lash and brow tinting. Customise and perfect unique lash and brow looks by utilising the full range of tinting, styling, lash perming, aftercare products and accessories.

For product and training enquiries, contact RefectoCil Australia directly. +61 2 7200 8452 | sales@refectocil-australia.com.au | www.refectocil-australia.com.au


2020 COSMOPROF BOLOGNA, ITALY – FAIR DISTRICT

12 – 15 MARCH

13 – 16 MARCH

A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai

Company of

With the support of

cosmoprof.com

Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

In partnership with


ROUNDTABLE

Daniel Dickson

Natalie Arakelian

Joanne Healy

Euphoria Skin

Advanced Skin Technology

Jodie King

Emma Worgan

Rebecca Miller

Skin Clinic Blyss

Dermaviduals Australasia

La Bella Medispa

DMK, Australia & New Zealand

THE SKIN SPECIALISTS Watch all of the dynamic Industry Roundtable videos online at www.professionalbeauty.com.au/roundtable PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 55


ROUNDTABLE The Skin Specialists from left Joanne Healy, Daniel Dickson, Natalie Arakelian, Glenn Silburn, Rebecca Miller, Jodie King and Emma Worgan.

QUESTION: What are the pros and cons of focusing your clinic exclusively on skincare solutions, and thereby overlooking other potential categories such as lashes, brows, waxing, nails, and tanning? LEARNING: GOOD SKIN CHANGES PEOPLE’S LIVES, AND IS ARGUABLY THE BACKBONE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY. FOCUSING PURELY ON IT CAN LEAD TO GREATER BUSINESS SUCCESS. Daniel Dickson: “I don’t think there’s pros and cons with specialising. You’ve got to know what you’re famous for and the challenge is a lot of

Daniel Dickson and Professional Beauty’s Glenn Silburn.

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Joanne Healy and Emma Worgan.

people don’t price themselves appropriately. When people do specialise, they’ve got to know what they’re famous for, they’ve got to price themselves right. The biggest challenge is people get scared with skin because you see less people, but the average spend is greater. You’ve got to have a plan around making sure that you’re going to be an effective skin business. Whether that’s from the tools you work with, from formulations or machinery, devices and the education, making sure that everything that you do in your business is targeting at being the best possible you can be at skin. The negative is when people don’t feel their worth and their value and they’re not ready to take that leap of faith to be an actual skin exclusive business.”


Roundtable 12 was held at the Public Dining Room, Balmoral.

Rebecca Miller: “We all come into the industry as a beauty professional, so it means that we are trained in everything, but I think you do find where your passion is, your niche, and for us it has been skin. One of the ways that we’ve been able to solve this issue is by introducing ourselves to other people. If lashes is what their passion is, that’s great. If you’ve aligned yourself with other professionals that are great at what they do you keep to your craft, it really works. Then you’re building each other’s businesses as well.” Joanne Healy: “In terms of focusing on skin, it does give you the opportunity to have that credibility in the industry to be a specialist in that forum. But you have to make sure you’re capitalising on those treatments that are giving you the best profit in a short amount of time. ”

THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IS PEOPLE GET SCARED WITH SKIN BECAUSE YOU SEE LESS PEOPLE, BUT THE AVERAGE SPEND IS GREATER.

Jodie King: “You go to the States and there’s a lash place or there’s someone that just does waxing. We’ve chose to focus on skin because that’s what we love and people do take us more seriously. There’ll be certain people that if they came to you with a pedicure, there’s no way they’re going to let you touch their skin. So that’s our focus and that’s been our focus for years - that’s all we do.”

Natalie Arakelian chats to guests.

Jodie King

Emma Worgan: “When you do focus more on one thing, you become that master of that trade and with skin solutions, you do have that opportunity to retail to your clients so it gives you that higher end dollar value per treatment. With some of our Dermaviduals clients, we’ve noticed a significant pattern in their growth when they do focus more on skin. And not only that, not even just changing the business model and taking out waxing and different things like that, but a simple thing such as a salon changing their name, taking away beauty, nails and changing it to skin has seen really great business growth for those businesses.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 57


ROUNDTABLE

Daniel Dickson chats to Rebecca Miller.

QUESTION: How many skincare ranges should a clinic carry, and what areas of consideration should be researched when selecting those products? LEARNING: THERE’S NO ONE SIZE FITS ALL, BUT IT’S IMPORTANT BRAND VALUES ALIGN. Jodie King: “I don’t think that it’s how many we should be carrying in terms of the consideration, it’s what does your clinic mainly treat. And then you look at the ingredients, what it’s treating. For example, we do a lot of acne and a lot of rosacea, so we want some strong retinols. For me, it’s about the ingredients, what it’s going to do. From a company point of view, the backup that you get as well, because there’s always going to be some sort of adverse reaction at some stage. You want to know that you’ve got their back. Price, to a point, but that’s not at front of mind for me. It’s what results I’m going to get.” Joanne Healy: “It’s endless, depending on the skin clinic and every clinic is going to be different in what they treat, what type of clients they’ve got coming in, what type of consumers, so it really needs to be tailored around what are the needs of that clinic specifically. The other thing that needs to be taken into consideration is results, but the way of the industry and where we’re moving now, especially with the millennials, is that they’re looking for more than just results. They’re looking for sustainability, they’re looking for luxury, they’re looking for vegan, cruelty-free. That’s why at AST we offer a myriad of different brands so that we have unique selling points between our brands, because it’s very tricky to get a brand that encompasses all of that.” Natalie Arakelian: “It’s looking at what your clientele is and what they need. Over the years, whenever I’m looking at a brand or a skin care company that I’m going to bring into the clinic, it’s all about trying that brand, having a full prescription for yourself undergoing a treatment plan like you would expect your clients to be able to see. It’s finding out what the products are going to do for the skin because there are so many different brands out there and we all have a different target market. “

Jodie King from Skin Clinic Blyss.

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Professional Beauty’s Michelle Ruzzene and Natalie Arakelian.

Rebecca Miller: “You’ve got to be really aligned to the values of that company. It’s imperative for us that the support for continuous training and development of your team is there because as we know, skin is a complex organ. We have to continuously be educating ourselves and making sure we’ve got the backup of the companies that we choose.” Daniel Dickson: “We’re very much a values-based business and our number one core value is support. It’s not about number of brands - I know plenty of businesses have five brands that do really well and some that have five and are just utterly confused and have a high staff turnover. We’re a one horse race and that’s our choice. But the biggest thing is when you align yourself with values and find people who believe in what you believe in. One of the biggest thing we’ve done in the last five years is our online education platform - 40 percent is skin and 60 percent is things that they don’t do at base training. Hormones and skin, communication, conflict resolution, confidence and the consultation process to the nth degree.” Emma Worgan: “We are just one brand within our company. If a clinic does go down the route of having more than one, they should try and remain very separate and by that, not letting a client go home with a couple of products from one and a couple of products from another because the cosmetic chemist from one skin care range hasn’t spoken to another cosmetic chemist. We don’t know what the interaction would be on the skin and we could be hindering the client’s results or in the worst case, causing skin reactions.”


ACNE

Before

AGEING

After

SCARRING

Before

Before

After

ENZYME THERAPY

After

Before

After


ROUNDTABLE

Natalie Arakelian and Emma Worgan.

Daniel Dickson: “We’re seeing more young boys come in these days with breast tissue. It’s the hormones in the foods, which is highly processed. A lot of the time it’s not just a skin problem, it’s a social problem, it’s a gut problem, it’s a stress problem. It’s looking at all these factors, and it’s about knowing who is in your allied group of medical professionals to work with. It’s combining modalities for overall results, and recognising where you stop and someone else starts, and having that referral process there.” Joanne Healy: “It’s consumers having unrealistic expectations and trying to give them the results, but at the same time we need to be educating them that it is a progressive, and not an aggressive approach. One of the challenges we have is meeting the needs of the consumers, because they want results, but then they want it pure, and they want a natural, and they want all these things within a range in itself.” QUESTION: Tell us about the biggest challenge you find in the skincare market and what have you done to combat this? Consider how skin changes with seasons, age, hormones, stress and many other factors. How do you ensure your client’s regime maintains its’ efficacy all year round? LEARNING: TAKING A HOLISTIC APPROACH IS KEY, SOMETHING THAT THIS INDUSTRY IS DOING BETTER NOW THAN IT’S EVER DONE.

Emma Worgan: “It always comes back to education, because there’s so many different ranges out there with all different philosophies. It’s about why you’re working with that product to the client and at that consultation stage really looking at what’s going on internally as well. It’s not just about what we can do on the surface, but we also do need to look at those internal factors, and link up with experts in that field.” Rebecca Miller and Natalie Arakelian.

Natalie Arakelian: “One of the biggest conditions that we treat is acne, which is an inflammatory skin disorder. What we’re finding now is that people are very stressed. They’ve got a lack of sleep, hormonal imbalances, environmental changes in their life that are contributing to these conditions. When you’re treating these skins, you really need to be looking at the causes of the condition, not just the condition itself. It’s looking at how you can educate them, on sleeping, on ways they can reduce their stress. Just having a friendly chat sometimes can be really good, because people don’t realise that they are so stressed.” Rebecca Miller: “Obviously as we go through the year, the seasons change, the environment changes. At La Bella, we invite our clients in every quarter for us to reassess their skin care, and how things are changing for them, through those seasons. One of the biggest challenges that we see is that people are self-diagnosing. There’s a lot of influencers out there, and people look to those influencers for information, and they’ll end up buying a product which most likely is not the right product for their skin. We also look at client’s diet, we sell supplements that we can recommend as well.” Jodie King: “The market has changed people are buying online. And the way that we deal with it is that we’re re consulting at every appointment. Asking the same questions, every time. Has anything changed? New medications? On or off the pill? We always ask about the stress, and things like that. So, we’re keeping on top of it that way. But it’s hard, because clients also come in wanting the same thing as their friend, even though they may have vastly different skins.”

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Joanne Healy from Advanced Skin Technology.


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ROUNDTABLE

Rebecca Miller and Emma Morgan smile for the camera.

QUESTION: The availability of constant skincare treatments from lasers to peels and needling, coupled with consumers concocting their own routines at home with powerful ingredients like retinol, can invite the risk of clients overdoing it and harming their skin. Do you think we will see a backlash against overworking the skin in future, and clients opting for fewer skincare solutions?

The promenade at Balmoral Beach.

LEARNING: THE TWO KEY PILLARS THAT SHOULD ALWAYS BE CONSIDERED ARE EDUCATION AND CONSULTATION. Emma Worgan: “It’s safe to say we’re already starting to see the effects of this in our industry, and there’s definitely been a rise in cases of barrier disorders happening on the skin. When you sit down with Emma Worgan from Dermaviduals

a client and look at their cosmetic history, it’s not surprising to really see why. We’ve had a big epidemic of over-exfoliation and overworking the skin over the last 10 to 15 years. It’s not a surprise to see there’s a rise in barrier disorders. There’s already starting to be a bit of a shift in the industry. There’s more marketing out there talking about barrier repair and nurturing the skin. With the postgraduate education courses that I’ve been attending recently, they’re all talking barrier repair and corneotherapy, which with Dermaviduals, we’ve been talking about for 26 years since it’s been formulated. It’s great now to see that that is starting to change within our industry and people are becoming more aware of barrier repair. Rebecca Miller: “We are evolving as skin therapists and skin biology doesn’t change - it’s our understanding of it. We’re in a technology boom and in an era of quick fixes and trends, where people can buy whatever they want online. For me, it’s all about us educating the consumer. It’s educating the people that work for us. I’m really passionate about this because we are seeing some

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Guests dined on lunch once filming had finished.

people who have ruined their skin forever. Consumers have got access to too much information sometimes. But now people are looking for somebody that they can connect with and that they can trust.” Natalie Arakelian: “Barrier repair therapy is something we do talk about more often now. The therapists are educated, the skin care companies are improving their formulations, especially when it comes to peels. I do find in consultation sometimes, I’m educating my own clients, who have bought ingredients online, how to use them because they do not understand what the ingredients are. But the most impaired barriers that I see in the clinic are coming from the doctors, who have been giving their clients retinol and Benzac.”

Rebecca Miller from La Bella Medispa.

WE’VE HAD A BIG EPIDEMIC OF OVEREXFOLIATION AND OVERWORKING THE SKIN IN THE LAST 10 TO 15 YEARS. IT’S NOT A SURPRISE TO SEE THERE’S A RISE IN SKIN BARRIER DISORDERS. Natalie Arakelian from Euphoria Skin.

Daniel Dickson chats to guests.

Daniel Dickson, Natalie Arakelian and Glenn Silburn ready for the Roundtable.

Joanne Healy: “With social media and so forth, there’s so much access to information and clients think they’re experts in the industry themselves before they were even coming into our clinic. But it’s all about education. We’ve been speaking and preaching that for a very long time. It’s progressive, not aggressive in the way that you treat the skin. Some skins do need a stronger approach, but for the majority of skins, it’s all about improving that barrier function first.” Daniel Dickson: “I don’t think there’s been a huge change. There’s more tools available to challenge the skin. It’s when to challenge the skin. When you challenge a skin that’s compromised, you are only going to end in inflammation, which causes pigmentation, controlled scars or whatever it may be. This isn’t new. The problem is all of the conditions we face, acne, scaring, pigmentation, ageing, reactive skins, are all inflammatory conditions. You’ve got to work up to the correct treatments. The underlying thing here is the strength of the therapist, the training, the education of the therapist to be able to find out exactly what plan the consumer needs.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 63


ROUNDTABLE Guests mingling before lunch.

QUESTION: How do you retain loyal skin clients and prevent them jumping from clinic to clinic? Provide examples of package deals and bundles that have improved your bottom line, plus the support measures undertaken by the brands. LEARNING: IT’S CRUCIAL TO HAVE A THOROUGH CONSULTATION WITH EVERY CLIENT AND CREATE A BESPOKE SOLUTION THAT SUITS THEM. Joanne Healy: “It really starts and finishes with the consultation. One of the things that we do as part of our education is explained to the therapist that you really need to have a clear, one hour consultation so that you’re giving the client the time to build rapport with you and a relationship with you. You have to do a thorough skin analysis, looking at their history, look at their skin and really see

Glamorous ladies ready for the Roundtable.

how it responds to those basic skin treatments or elements. As part of that consultation, it’s really getting them to understand those expectations of what we can do with the treatment. That it is not an overnight, it can be six to 12 months to really start seeing and creating those changes within the skin. It’s really a multiple approach.” Rebecca Miller: “You have to explain to the client where thye are starting from and where we hope to go. You’re documenting the journey all the way. Clients are looking for somebody that’s educated, they’re looking for somebody they can trust and they’re looking for connection.”

Natalie Arakelian from Euphoria Skin.

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Emma Worgan: “Sometimes therapists will just book the next treatment and not think about that plan over the next 12 months, which means the client can go from salon to salon. Whereas if you’ve set in that whole treatment plan, nominating what they


goals are and how they’re going to achieve them, they’re more likely to stick to that treatment plan and commit to it over that next 12 months.” Jodie King: “You need to stop the clients jumping from clinic to clinic. One treatment doesn’t fix everything . That’s why we sell in packages. I often say, unless you’re going to do four, don’t bother doing one, because you’re not going to get those results, and I don’t want that to be my reputation.” Natalie Arakelian: “The consultation can make or break your relationship with the clients. It’s very important to listen to them. Sometimes in a consultation we’re quick to tell them what we can do, but we need to listen to what the client has to tell us before we then prescribe. You really need to be able to connect with that client and sometimes we forget that it’s not just about the best service at the best price. It’s how we make our clients feel. They will always remember when they walk out the door how we’ve made them feel.”

THE CONSULTATION CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH THE CLIENTS. IT’S VERY IMPORTANT TO LISTEN TO THEM

Joanne Healy from Advanced Skin Technology.

Guests mingle over lunch at Public Dining Room.

Professional Beauty editor Anita Quade chats to Emma Worgan.

Rebecca Miller from La Bella Medispa.

Daniel Dickson: “You can see a thousand people once or you can see 200 people five times. I encourage you to do one thing at home. Make sure you look at your database and measure your VIPs. These are people that are coming 18 to 24 times a year. That’s once every two weeks. This is about loyalty, which is in your retention report. What’s your retention marketing plan? It’s getting clients on board with you on a loyalty programme. Saying no to the ones that aren’t on board and be happy with that.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 65


ROUNDTABLE

Daniel Dickson and Glenn Silburn.

inflammation. One of the biggest things that we’re looking at the moment is an ingredient called tranexamic acid. This ingredient was originally prescribed as an oral supplement and what they found was that it helped with hyperpigmentation, but also redness. I’d say that’s one of the top ingredients to look out for .” Emma Worgan: “We’ve always been about taking an holistic approach and in the coming years we’re going to see more of that. Quality injection therapy and LED will be here to stay. I think that regulations will become more strict with device, so that’s something we need to consider when looking at different modalities and devices.”

Natalie Arakelian and Emma Worgan.

Daniel Dickson: “Inflammaging is the concept of inflammatory aging. Everyone talks about acne. There’s a much greater aging population who’s concerned about not looking great. Inflammaging is all the conditions that we have spoken about Joanne Healy from Advanced Skin Technology.

QUESTION: How has the research, development and technology from brands enhanced your skincare offerings? What do you predict will be the biggest skincare revolution in 2020 and beyond? LEARNING: BEAUTY IS ENCOMPASSING A HOLISTIC APOPROCAH WITH THE INDUSTRY REALISING GOOD SKIN COMES FROM WITHIN. Rebecca Miller: “We align ourselves with companies that can help to develop us as therapists. We evolve with them and we’re continuously learning more things when it comes to skin. People are definitely going for that holistic approach. You want to make sure that you are continuously growing and learning as a skin professional.” Natalie Arakelian: “With our brands, they are continually growing with their formulations. The brands that we have in our clinic all have their own in-house development and research. They’re helping us to be able to treat the skin with some great formulations that continually improve. They are also helping us through education.” Joanne Healy: “People want results, but without having that downtime. With new research and new technologies, it’s all about looking at different ingredients and delivery systems that can still deliver those actives into the skin, but without aggression. One of the things that we’ve been looking at, especially with pigmentation because it is an inflammatory disorder, is looking at ingredients that are not only addressing the pigmentation itself, but addressing that

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Lunch was held after filming.

today that’s not always just treated topically, it’s dietary, it’s timeout, it’s mindfulness. Topical and internal pre and probiotics are going to be huge in the future.” Jodie King: “We’ve got an aging population, that’s what we’re going to be treating lots of. People do want to stay younger for longer because they’re living longer and we’re seeing a lot of that now. But people would anything to look younger. For us it’s more about educating and knowing how to manipulate the products to get the best results out of them and working with what you got.” n


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SALON VIEW

ON BEING

Franc

One of Sydney’s best-kept beauty secrets, Miss Franc is quickly earning a reputation for the art of beauty and balance. Artist and cosmetic clinician, clinic owner and founder, Francine Ithier is passionate about symmetry, structure and real skin health with a particular penchant for lips - and Instagram is loving her for it. No topic was off limits when Michelle Ruzzene caught up with Francine to talk cadavers, clients and selecting the perfect retail partner. Design: The clinic’s interior is a true reflection of Fran’s work and philosophy. Each piece in her waiting room has been carefully curated, sourced from the finest antique stores, creating an ambiance that is both comforting and chic. On the shelves sits her father’s books and her grandfather’s camera, while the wall is adorned with a large mirror, custom made from an old horse and cart. A black deer horn ceiling chandelier complements the oversized grey couch and tan leather cushions, creating the perfect blend of art, architecture and style. Fran’s treatment room is both clinical and chic, featuring predominantly white furniture and equipment. Siri is on hand and at Fran’s command should the music require a volume shift or lights dimmed for comfort.

Philosophy: The Miss Franc signature ‘look’ is never overdone and meeting Fran in the flesh, her natural beauty shines through. Her philosophy to enhance a person’s natural features and to see each client’s face as a unique canvas is what sets her apart from the rest. Passionate about her craft, Fran only takes on new clients who are committed to long-term skin health, both inside and

out. Fran reiterates to all of her clients that clinic treatments are only a small piece of the puzzle and must be combined with prescribed take-home skincare products, a healthy lifestyle and good diet for total skin health. “I see my clients every four weeks,” Fran says. “I only take on serious skin enthusiasts. I make sure my clients are committed and they must stick to a routine if they want to maintain long-term, lasting results.”

Training: When she’s not treating clients, Fran is happiest cutting open cadavers with world training leaders to ensure she’s up to date with the latest medical techniques. Fran is usually invited to go overseas twice a year on sponsored trips to learn the latest around skin, facial structure and adverse reactions. Fran also partakes in local training sessions every eight weeks or so. It’s her dedication to her craft that means Fran doesn’t need to advertise or market her services. “All of my clients are via word of mouth,” she said. “When I’m away I always have clients calling me and asking me when I’m coming back.”

Treatments: Fran offers a variety of treatments at Miss Franc including IPL, Excel-V (the latest sister-act to the IPL to treat redness, unsightly veins, age spots, sun spots and discolouration on the face and body), Laser Genesis, Dermapen, hydrating and antiageing facials with enzymes and herbs, a variety of peels and anti-wrinkle injections and fillers. Fran tailors each treatment to suit the individual’s needs and concerns and will often combine treatments


for the most effective results, like skin needling with a peel. One of her favourite treatments is the Byonik. “The Byonik laser facial is a stunning treatment that really feeds and nourishes your cells,” Fran said. “It’s a great way to get antioxidants directly into the skin’s cells, leaving it hydrated and plump.”

Retail: Fran said it took her more than a year to find the perfect skin care range and she eventually chose to partner with Luzern (for a number of reasons), but mainly because they formulate all of their products without toxins, irritants and unnecessary additives. “They are cosmeceuticals made from active ingredients and botanicals without any of the damaging chemicals,” Fran explained. “I believe in balance, so if people are injecting themselves with things like botulinum toxin (Botox) and filler, then topically on the skin I like to leave it as natural as possible, while still getting results. Luzern helps my clients achieve a healthier, more beautiful complexion.”

Future plans: Fran plans to expand her offering into a new and unique concept the beauty space will relish. She’ll be introducing a Korean-based facial treatment later in the year and has some exciting skin collaborations upcoming. But for now, nothing further can be revealed. n 48 Liverpool St, Paddington www.missfranc.com.au Follow: @missfrancsydney

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SKINCARE

THE RIGHT FORMULA There is a delicate science to getting skincare to perform. The Director of Research of Medik8, Daniel Isaacs jetted into Australia recently and revealed to Anita Quade how his chemistry degree led him to research breakthroughs in beauty. You completed a chemistry degree at Leeds University and then went into researching skin biochemistry and creating anti-ageing skincare. Tell us about how your career journey? “When I finished studying chemistry my brother Elliot founded the brand Medik8 and called me because he needed help with the brand about eight years ago. He said ‘if you thought your degree was hard now you are going to have to think about making a stable Vitamin C serum.”

How do you go about that? “I wasn’t an expert in the beauty industry at the time I was a 23-year-old male student with a minimal skincare routine. Elliot is a scientist by trade and his approach really spoke to me at the time because he said he wanted a brand that was really delivering something that works and was also a scientific brand.”

You mentioned it was just a small start-up team which has now grown enormously. Tell us about that. “It started off with just 10 of us and now we have nearly 100 people working for the brand. Originally it was just me in the R&D department which is now half made up of biology and the other half is the formulation departments.”

Medik8 started by offering Vitamin C, Vitamin A and sunscreen products – how has your offering progressed? “A lot of our innovation is still in those categories – we have an extensive range. Sunscreen is massive business, I don’t need to tell Australians that. What we have tried to achieve as a brand is nailing down the CSA strategy – as a brand we are trying to find the best versions of this.”

The skincare industry is constantly evolving is that part of the appeal? “It really is, you can see CSA as a story of the past and now there is so much innovation to explore and that is what we are in the business of doing.”

That would have been quite new in skincare at the time?

How long does it take you once you come up with a skincare idea before it reaches the shelf?

“We were quite niche and that was our identity – to be quite science led. Since I’ve joined I have been trying to find better ways of getting results and making the products powerful and also making sure we continue with innovation.”

“There are a lot of variables – some of our newer vitamin A derivates took a long time for us to research, but we are also very quick and sometimes we can get a product out in nine months. Our offices are outside of London and we are set up as a lab, so

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everything is under the one roof which makes it easy to develop products. As a brand we have education, sales and marketing and R&D in the one space so we can be very responsive.”

difference between buying something that will change your skin and buying something that will make no difference.”

Your packaging has a really simple aesthetic tell us about that…

“The amount that you see on the bottle is not what is in the bottle. I have seen first-hand in our internal trials and also looking around the market that even with a stable version things degrade rapidly and that is invisible. You can look at two formulas and one has gone completely off. A lot of the degradation happens without being visible the only way you can put a potent stable formula on the market is if you are doing an analytical research from the moment you have made it – right to the end of its shelf life – to check that the amount you put in is the same as at the end.”

“Our packaging is really minimal while there is so much that goes into these products they are simple to add into your routine and the packaging reflects this.”

Tell us about the skincare trends you foresee… “We are continuing on with the CSA and also sunscreen launches. We are looking at how to make sunscreen more appealing for everyday usage and teach clients how to use the right amount. We are also looking at peptides while it’s not a new field – it is on our radar. We are also exploring more in the professional world and that will be a big focus for us as we have spent a lot of time working on our chemical peels. While we have been doing a lot in the retail space with homecare for the past two years we are looking at changing our whole range and also enhancing the experience for clients and therapists and also bringing our professional offering up to date and making it appealing for all demographics.”

When it comes to formulations how do you start the process? “The first thing we do is look at the independent data to see that we can trust what we are seeing here – that is the base from which we build upon. Usually the challenge is the more effective the active that you are dealing with the harder it is to formulate with. The higher the strength the more risk that it is going to degrade while it’s in a bottle.”

What is the biggest challenge? “It is the stability of the active ingredients and we look at that from the very start. It is a critical factor because it is the

How do you monitor this process?

How many products do you look at launching each year? “In the professional range we have either upgraded or launched 39 products this year and we did a similar level of product development last year when we refreshed the brand.”

How do you stand out from other brands? “As a brand we are very scientifically driven and we show that to everyday users that if you really want to change your skin you need to work with a brand like this. With our new professional range - sustainability has been the biggest part of the range and all of our plastics are 100 percent recyclable.”

What’s on the drawing board for you in 2020? “We have a brand new peels range coming out in a couple of months because we think peels are a really useful intervention – our peels have been designed to have very low downtime and higher concentrations but we have used a slow release technology so that the acids are delivered slower during the 10 minute peel. We want to remove the fear factor for people.” n

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SKINCARE

The Simple Truth About

SKINCARE Ensuring that the cosmeceutical skincare range that you stock and prescribe is as effective as possible, is essential in providing optimum skincare outcomes and results for your clients. Carley Stewart explains.

VITAMIN B There are a group of eight B Vitamins, that are essential for many functions within the body, specifically (B3) Niacinamide, (B5) D-Panthenol and (B9) Folic Acid are essential for skincare functionality. The standout amongst the B vitamins is Niacinamide which is a multiskilled powerhouse providing many effective benefits to all skin types. Niacinamide stimulates collagen production, targets pigmentation and boosts the skin’s immunity to UV. Niacinamide has also been scientifically proven to be effective in treating mild to moderate acne and rosacea. For best results, it is essential to recommend a product with a Niacinamide concentration of 10%.

VITAMIN C UNDERSTANDING ACTIVE SKINCARE formulations and making the right choice can be as easy as A, B, C, D provided you know what you are looking for. Using the correct form of an active ingredient is essential as it is more potent and plays a more active role in anti-ageing efficacy. Active ingredients are continually researched and tested and are consistently proven to be the most effective form. Another important factor that impacts the effectiveness of the active ingredient within a product, is the pH. pH is the ‘power of hydrogen’ and indicates how acidic, neutral or alkaline a solution is. The pH is measured in aqueous solutions, with the value between 0 -14, and 7 (neutral) being the middle of the scale. Acidic products have a pH value under 7, Alkaline products have a pH value over 7, with water having a neutral pH value of 7. Lemon juice is highly acidic at pH:2 and soapy water, alkaline at the other end of the scale at pH:12. So what form of active ingredients are the most effective and what are the ideal pH levels for these actives?

VITAMIN A Retinol is the most effective version of Vitamin A. It is a powerful multitasking anti-ageing ingredient, which restores skin, smooths wrinkles, aids in cell turnover, increases collagen production, skin firmness and acts as an antioxidant. To be effective Retinol requires a higher pH level above 5.5. It is important when using a product containing retinol that it has been formulated to maximise effectiveness whilst not irritating the skin.

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In its purest form Vitamin C, Ascorbic Acid, is known as one of the most potent antioxidants to help fight free radical damage. L-Ascorbic acid is the only form of Vitamin C that the body can utilise to promote and stimulate the skin’s natural collagen production, which plumps the skin and improves skin tone and texture. Ascorbic Acid requires a much lower pH than Retinol for effectiveness, penetration and stability. It has been shown that L-Ascorbic Acid should be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin and also the maximum concentration for optimum percutaneous absorption, performance and effectiveness is 20%. asap super C serum contains 20% L-ascorbic acid.

DNA Telemere Technology assists in protecting the skin’s DNA structure whilst stimulating the repair pathways, resulting in extended cell life, cellular rejuvenation and reduces the appearance, depth and length of wrinkles. The skin acid mantle, is the thin layer on the surface of the skin made up of natural oils, sweat glands and dead skin cells, and is the protective moisture barrier, with a pH value between 4.5 -5.5 being slightly acidic with the ideal normal skin pH being 5.5. When skin has a pH: 5.5 and is not irritated, it is operating at its best. The skin’s pH will increase with age but remains acidic. The skin’s pH will change with the application of skincare, cosmetics and soaps. Applying active products to a well-balanced pH skin is essential to maximise the effectiveness of products. Along with the delivery system of a formulation, packaging is also considered during the product development process and is influenced by the structure of the active’s purest form to protect and assist the stability of a formulation. Airless technology provides a hygienic solution to formulations, preventing air accessing the product, minimising bacteria and ensuring the entire contents of the product is used. It also provides UV protection, reducing the risk of product oxidising or being light effected, allowing the product to maintain maximum potency. The above details the essential components of a Cosmeceutical skincare range and also provides an understanding of why skincare products often take several years to formulate. n Carley Stewart is a formulating chemist and Managing Director of asap skin products. www.asapskinproducts.com


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BUSINESS

Festive sales SEASON BOOST It’s the busiest time of the year for beauty salons. Matt Williams gives his tips on how to maximise sales during the special occasions.

WE’VE ALL HEARD the saying “Make hay while the sun shines” and while I’m not a farmer, I am a business owner – and I couldn’t agree more! Even though many salons, spas and clinics have a steady flow of regular, loyal clients throughout the year, there’s no denying that from Spring to the New Year is the busiest time of year for the professional beauty industry! Here at Professional Beauty Solutions, our sales orders from salons, spas and clinics can be up to 80% higher in spring than they were in late autumn and winter. The reason for this spike in business might seem obvious – clients simply have more special occasions at this time of year! From spring racing carnivals and weddings to high school formals and Christmas parties, there’s an endless stream of events your clients want to look their best for. And of course, there’s the weather – as it gets warmer we expose more skin, so demand for hair removal and tanning services grows.

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To top it off, it’s gifting season, and everyone is desperate to find thoughtful gifts for their friends and family, colleagues and teachers, Secret Santa – the list goes on! This presents your business with a great opportunity to sell treatments, products, gift sets and trusty gift certificates that are great for generating new clients and encouraging return business (and let’s be honest – they’re also just the thing for hard-to-buy-for mother-in-laws)! By now I can guess what you’re probably thinking – “OK Captain Obvious, tell me something I don’t know about my business and my clients!” Well, here’s what I’ve noticed over the years, having had the privilege of working with a large cross-section of salons, spas and clinics. The key to sales growth is – yep, you guessed it – preparation! Like I’ve said, I’m not a farmer, but I’m guessing that the farmer doesn’t just sit around, waiting for the rain and sunshine to do their job. Rather, I’ll bet they’re out there planting seeds, fertilising the crops, ensuring proper water irrigation, and whatever else they do to ensure they get the best possible growth (and therefore, best possible harvest) during the most favourable season of the year. If you want to really optimise your revenuemaking capacity at this time of year, you can’t just wait either. Just like the farmer you need to plan ahead, but if you haven’t done that yet, don’t worry – it’s not too late!


The salons, spas and clinics that we see getting the best results from now through to the New Year are the ones that do a few critical things differently. So without further ado, here are my six secrets to silly season salon success! Utilise all of your marketing mediums, all of the time. This seems obvious, but make sure you’re letting your clients know what you offer! Do this through your website, on your Facebook and Instagram accounts, via email marketing, with SMS, mail outs and local advertising, and through eye-catching window and point of sale displays. I often see salons put up posters advertising a seasonal product, service or special offer, but then fail to update their website with the same info. You don’t know through which platform prospective clients are looking at your business, so you need to have your info everywhere in order to catch clients at every opportunity! It’s also important to make sure your clients are aware of all the services you offer, regardless of whether they use them themselves. For example, you might have a client that comes in for regular facials who isn’t aware you do makeup – and her daughter has a formal coming up! By promoting all your services, you’re less likely to miss out on referral-type business like this. Nail your Christmas gift pack merchandising so your clients can see what’s on offer and how much they stand to save. There’s an old saying in retailing – “Stack them high and watch them fly” – and it’s absolutely correct. I’ve been running businesses for the past 20 years, and retailing in one form or another has always played a huge role in their success. If you have just one or two of a gift pack on your shelf and you fail to tell your clients that the particular pack includes a free gift or represents great value, then it should come as no surprise when they gather dust. At Professional Beauty Solutions, we offer our clients a fantastic range of ‘gift with purchase’ sets and Christmas packs with great discounts, but it’s up to you to a) have enough of them to make the most of the busy selling season, b) display them in a prominent position in the salon, and c) tell your clients how compelling the savings are and encourage them to buy! Make sure you’re staffed for retailing success! When you’re flat out scheduling backto-back clients, you risk missing opportunities to retail, and that’s never more damaging than at this time of year. Whatever you do, don’t let your team be so busy that your clients walk out of your salon and into a department store to buy retail products! Capitalise on gift certificate/gift card sales. Many salons do this well, but others fail to advertise their gift cards at all. The key is making sure your clients know you have them (they should be on display on your counter) and letting them know that they don’t expire for 3 years (or at all, if that’s your policy). I also strongly recommend getting Christmas-themed ones created – a low-cost action that’s known to generate uptake in gift certificate sales at this time of year! Set ambitious re-booking targets for your team. I know that when I get a haircut at this time of year the receptionist always says, “We’re getting really busy and I don’t want you to miss out – shall we book in your next two or three appointments now?” It’s a clever move, and even though I know it’s a money-making tactic, it’s also true – and I always take them up on the offer so I don’t get caught out as Christmas approaches. Peak season is an ideal time for you to increase prices! It may seem counterintuitive, but the best time to implement a price increase is when you’re literally too busy to see everyone who wants an appointment. This is an area that salon owners often struggle with, as they’re afraid they’ll lose clients if they put prices up. In my experience, they rarely do – and even if they do, they end up being more profitable anyway. If you haven’t had a price increase in years, then reviewing your treatment menu pricing is a must and now’s the best time to do it! So there you have it – focus on these half a dozen simple actions, remember that you reap what you sow, and make this busy season your best ever! Good luck, have fun! n

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MARKETING

HOW SOCIAL MEDIA CAN BOOST MARKETING GOALS Would you like to get more people into your salon and feel a sense of loyalty for your brand and offerings? Follow these five tips by Neha Hobson to boost your presence. SMART SALON OWNERS know that their online presence can be leveraged to receive real offline results. Let’s look at three ways that you can utilise Instagram marketing for this. If you’re not sure about Instagram, let me tell you this: it currently has over a billion active users (500 million of which use it daily), and 83% of this audience discovers new products and services through Instagram. Over 50% of users follow brands and businesses they love, and Instagram has four times more engagement than Facebook. 80% of your audience is likely to make their buying decisions based on Instagram alone. The beauty industry, and specifically the salon niche is an extremely saturated market though. How are you differentiating yourself and standing out amongst all the noise on Instagram? The Instagram algorithm is always changing, and it seems harder now than ever to grow a loyal following. But there are a couple of fundamental principles that will work for you, no matter how many algorithm updates take place. In order to get your content seen by your target market, you have to get a few essentials right, whilst keeping these two questions in mind: What kind of content does my target audience want, and how can I add value to them? How can I increase the perceived value of my brand or business? The answers should drive your entire Instagram strategy.

1. Nice To Meet You, I’m Pitch-Perfect So many salon owners forget about the basics on Instagram, and rush towards the latest trending growth hack to try and get more likes and followers. (Side note: It is pretty much always a mistake to get obsessed with likes and followers. They are not always the perfect indicator of how good your content is, because they are heavily impacted by a changing algorithm. More on this later). The bare essentials are the best ones to perfect, because they remain the most powerful. This begins with the perfectly-crafted Instagram Bio because this is your pitch. Just like the offline world, pretty much everything hinges on this. It tells people who your brand or business is, often communicates your why, and your overall “vibe” or character. This is a very

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powerful tool, not to be taken for granted because of its simplicity. A poorly thought-out or rushed bio will not resonate with your target audience which means you’ll miss out on the right followers. People make a snap decision on whether they want to follow a brand, largely based on how the brand introduces themselves. Your bio is your FIRST impression on a potential customer. Fail to captivate, and fail to gain a real audience. You should also be editing and updating your bio regularly to incorporate the changes in your business.

Action Tips: Pitch perfect. Think about your elevator pitch (as if you were on Shark Tank). You only have 150 characters (just like a real-life, offline scenario where you have 10 seconds) so this is challenging. Now translate this into your Instagram Bio. Include any awards or accolades, and focus on your unique point of difference. Write in your brand voice (and showcase your brand’s personality). Is your brand the girl next door, the wise teacher, or is she the boss who always challenges you and pushes you to be your best? If you’re really stuck, abbreviate where you can, keep things punchy and impressive, and use emojis to evoke emotion or create the right mood. Always include a Call To Action (for example, “For a 10% discount on your first product, Click Below”, or “Sign up below for Free Shipping” or “Join our VIP List and Get Monthly Skincare Tips”). Find ways to use your Instagram to achieve your bigger marketing goals such as growing your email list or subscribers. Your call to action should have a purpose and should add value to your audience. It should have something enticing for them. It should also provide value for you - either getting you more sales, more followers, more email sign-ups, or driving traffic towards your products and services in some way. Keep updating this Call To Action each week, each month, or as appropriate - with links to your blog or a website link where your audience can read about a new product or service you’ve launched. Even a current promotion that you’re running, a press feature, a collaboration, or anything else you want to drive traffic towards that week. (You can use the “Website Link” in your Settings to update this clickable link accordingly). You should also create and add a branded hashtag in your bio. For example, mine is #BeautyByNeha - and I encourage my audience to use this hashtag whenever they post about me or my brand in any way, shape or form. This way, when someone searches this hashtag, anything related pops up. Hashtags are all about searchability, and having a branded hashtag indicates professionalism and expertise in the online space.

2. You Can’t Beat A Planner Your content is EVERYTHING in the online space, so I could write a hundred pages on it. One thing I’ve noticed that many salon owners don’t do though, is planning their content in advance. The salons that succeed on Instagram have their marketing calendars ready at the start of the quarter, because they understand the value of intention and goalsetting when it comes to getting bottom line results. You can’t achieve your goals if you’re consistently rushing to find content at the last second. It allows you to


plan ahead and take advantage of special events, promotions, and seasonal holidays like Valentine’s Day or Mother’s Day.

EW N

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POWER OF THREE

Action Tips: Choose your planner. Personally I love using Planoly on my computer to map out all my content, which syncs with its corresponding app on my phone and helps me keep an eye on things on-the-go. By using an instagram-approved app like Planoly, Tailwind, or something else, you get a big picture view to guarantee your feed is aesthetically beautiful and matches your brand persona. The added bonus? You won’t need to manually manage anything on your phone during the day, and you can focus your online activity towards more valuable tasks like building relationships (engagement), and loading up any last minute Stories to help your sales (more on this later). Things can still be added in spontaneously if needed, but by planning in advance you can guarantee high-quality, purpose-driven content, plus consistency - a winning combination. (Instagram heavily rewards consistency because by posting 2-3 times a day you show your commitment to the platform. Your organic reach is far wider this way, and from a purely common sense point of view, you remain front of mind at all times). When you run analytics on your account (or look at the Instagram “Insights” section), you can also get a feel for what type of content performs well with your audience, and what your optimal posting times are. Such statistics will help you ensure your content is effective and well-received. I also recommend reusing and rescheduling any high performing posts and videos every few months. So what should your content look like in a nutshell? It should always inspire or entertain, educate, and promote or sell (usually in this order). Your content is your opportunity to position your brand as the expert, adding value to your audience, and hence gaining their loyalty and trust. In a practical business sense, you can narrow down what products or services are being launched this month, what the key focus areas need to be across your lines, and analyse what hasn’t gone too well lately (low-performing services or dead stock). All of this should drive your Instagram strategy for the month. Ensure you’re including user-generated content such as before and afters and testimonials from happy clients, influencer-created content, or anything related. This is powerful, because what others are saying about your brand is far more credible and relatable to your audience, than what you say about yourself.

3. First I engage, Then I Conquer If there is one thing that salon businesses don’t do enough of, it’s engagement. They often complain that their followers aren’t buying from them, and that’s because they simply aren’t engaging with them! An authentic relationship will build trust and eventually lead to conversion. Engagement is the best way to cultivate this with your current and potential customers. The most common excuse I hear is that salon owners have no time, because they are in treatments all day. As a business-owner, I really understand how full your hands are with to-do’s all the time. Here are two solutions if this is an issue for you.

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Action Tips: -Allocate 10-20 minutes every morning and evening outside of your working hours to engage online. Treat it like a non-negotiable - part of your daily work tasks. Like, comment, respond to anyone who has taken time out of their day to comment on your posts or stories, and answer direct messages. If you can’t spend this amount of time engaging with potential clients, current customers, influencers and brands, why should they invest their time on your page? Just like any conversation, it requires give and take. So make a pledge with New Year around the corner to make social media work for you to market your business. n

Neha Hobson founder of Beauty By Neha is a beauty blogger, influencer and beauty writer. www.beautybyneha.com

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CAREER

HOW I GOT HERE:

KERRY-ANNE RAIOLA CEO, Pelactiv Tell us how you started your beauty career? “I had been working in the Corporate Finance Industry until my husband and I decided to start a family. After two children and six years extended break from full time work, I was more than ready to get back into it. An opportunity came along for me to invest in a business – a skincare business that had been suffering both financially and with internal problems with the Directors. I had no beauty background specifically, but I was obsessed with all things skincare, fashion and makeup. Add to that my business background and what did I have to lose? I learned everything I could about the skin, skincare conditions/products, understanding our formulations, ingredients, treatments, machinery. I just went for it and never looked back. I am now the sole owner of the business and have two salons of my own. I have grown the business nationally and have also expanded our product range – which is still growing. We are lucky in that we are probably one of a couple of skincare companies in Australia that actually manufacture their own products. From creation to completion, Pelactiv have full control of their product development. We can absolutely ensure that integrity and quality go into the selection of all ingredients that go into our products.”

“I was brought in to the business back in 1999 initially as an investor, and to take over control of the business. I then became Managing Director and have now been CEO for 10 years.”

What’s the biggest lesson you have learnt?

“The people. Working in the beauty industry is unlike any other. They are passionate, committed and fiercely loyal to their beloved brands – whatever they may be. Formulators – experimenting and formulating products they believe will treat skin conditions. Maintaining their ethical and moral standards to the highest of levels. Therapists – giving so much of themselves day after day in order to make people look and feel so much better about themselves. Educators – believing in and passing on their own experiences and knowledge to further educate those coming through the system. Consumers – who become almost obsessed at times with certain products because of the wonderful results they may be achieving. Sales people – who strive to let as many people as possible know how important it is to use quality skincare products and do their best to ensure their clients are buying/stocking it. It’s a cycle that keeps on turning and it’s what drives me every day.”

“That you can’t be everything to everyone. I’ve spent endless sleepless nights worrying, contemplating, rethinking feedback, comments and suggestions from hundreds of people through the years. Always trying to find solutions to questions and requests. I have learned that quality comes above everything else in our industry.”

“I have seen trends resurrected such as sugaring and threading – waxing treatments that were considered ‘old fashioned’ are now in vogue again. I have seen the evolution of the laser machine where now you can get advanced skin treatments in a

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How did you come to be in your position at Pelactiv?

What do you love most about the beauty industry?

What trends have you seen?

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clinic and not just by a cosmetic surgeon. Cosmetic injectables – the progression of the types of treatments and results that they provide are absolutely incredible, and all without invasive surgery. Cosmetic tattooing, one of the fastest growing and more popular treatments available at the moment. What was once such a dramatic and not so popular treatment, has now become a delicate, very arty way to enhance eyes, eyebrows and lips – and now even more advanced tattoos to complete the finished results of some reconstructive surgeries! Body contouring equipment you can purchase a machine to treat basically any body contour issue you may have. The evolution of the Day Spa – many of which are now more like a ‘wellness’ centre which offer a more ‘overall holistic’ experience. I have seen skin treatments change most of all. Now it is standard for salons to provide skin needling and heavy strength peels. Microdermabrasion has now expanded into hydradermabrasion. The options today to experiment and experience various treatments are endless and continue to grow.”

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Any advice for would be beauty entrepreneurs? “Be prepared to go beyond to get the results you dream of. Be prepared to work hard, long hours, even weekends when you have to. Be prepared to give so much of yourself that you sometimes feel you have nothing left to give. But remember you will always find the strength to push forward as long as you are doing something you love!”

What is the most challenging part of your role? “Staying fresh and innovative in a constantly changing market.”

If you weren’t in skincare tell us what we would find you doing? “Definitely something in fashion or makeup – my two other passions.” n



BUSINESS

From Side Hustle to Self Employed:

TURNING YOUR BEAUTY OBSESSION INTO A BUSINESS

Do you spend 90% of your time watching Youtube tutorials from famous beauty bloggers? Or are you always spending your weekends doing a friend’s makeup before that special event? It might be time to turn your side hustle into your main gig and set up your beauty business. Michael Gottlieb reveals. A STARTLING 61 percent of Australia’s small businesses are sole traders, that’s almost 1.32 million solopreneurs who are making the switch from employee to self employed. We’ve put together some ideas to get your beauty business off the ground, so you can be part of the few who do.

Making the switch from employee to self-employed beauty therapist Dreaming of breaking free from the employee mindset and starting your own beauty business? Becoming a business owner is a challenging, yet rewarding experience, and the rise of small and micro businesses in Australia is a testament to the freedom that running a small enterprise provides. You get to be your own boss, with more flexible working arrangements to fit around your life stuff, plus there’s also the potential to earn more than you ordinarily would as an employee.

If you fail to plan, you plan to fail Before you set up shop so to speak, you’ll need a business plan, especially if you need to secure a loan. Not only will it help you refine your ideas and define your objectives, but a solid business plan will give you the best chance of survival. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, around 13 percent of small businesses failed in 2018 with the primary cause of failure being poor strategic management.

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When writing your business plan consider the immediate first steps involved with the setting up of your business, as well as planning and goals for the first year, the first three years and the first five years. A good business plan should include the following: • What services will you provide? • Who are you offering them to? • Who are your competitors? • How will you attract business? • What will you charge for your services? • What are the set-up costs and ongoing expenses? • What are your financial forecasts, i.e. how much money do you plan on making? You can download some great business plan templates online, such as the one available from www.business.gov.au.

The fun stuff: finance and budgeting Getting your financing and budgeting right from the get-go is a key element to start-up success. Traditionally, obtaining finance to start a new business was near impossible, but fortunately there are many options available today. Some of the ways you can finance your business may include using your own savings, borrowing from family or friends, obtaining a loan from a financial institution (you may need to use your residential property as security), revenue-based funding, crowd funding, and Federal and State business funding programs. But before you take out a hefty loan, seeking professional advice is important to ensure the option you choose meets your circumstances and objectives. In addition, ask yourself ‘do I really need to splash out on fancy décor?’ Money spent on promoting your salon may be money more wisely spent.

Marketing your beauty business Let’s be honest, overnight sensations are very few and far between, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend your life savings on marketing your salon. There are a lot of low cost options to get your business noticed.


• Invest in a website. These days it’s cheap and often free to use one of the many website building tools that are available online. Make sure you update your content regularly and do some research into optimising your site according to Google search terms. • Consider online advertising. There are many online business directories where you can you can list your salon for free or for a small charge, for example, Google My Business which helps people from your local area find you. Don’t automatically rule out paid advertising Google Ad Words if done smartly can be very effective if you have a small budget to spend. • Make the most of social media. Facebook and Instagram accounts can be very effective if you use them to promote your services, give beauty tips and product advice, and run competitions. Another way to promote your business via social media is by following and engaging with influencers in the beauty industry to help get yourself noticed, this a valuable source of networking worth investing in. • Ask for feedback. Don’t be afraid to ask your clients for feedback and recommendations. You can do this via the ‘Recommend’ function on Facebook or if you have set up Google My Business your clients can provide a Google review. To create momentum, you may offer an incentive such as ‘$5 off your next visit’ for leaving a review.

The secret to perfect skin.

B E FO R E

Reduce the risk factor Like every business venture there is an element of risk, but by doing your homework you can reduce your risk and greatly increase your chances of success. Fortunately, you can also take out insurance to help protect your salon against some of the many risks it will face daily. A good insurance plan should be a priority for every salon owner, regardless of the size of your business. One unexpected incident is enough to throw your salon into turmoil and potentially put you out of business. For example, if you’re a mobile make up artist, you might want to consider Public Liability* insurance as part of your start up costs. Just imagine, you’re in a client’s home giving them a facial. What if you accidentally spill that chemical peel all over their expensive rug? Public liability insurance could help protect your business against legal fees and compensation costs if a customer, member of the public, or a supplier sues you for injury or damage to their property as a result of your alleged negligent business activity. n Michael Gottlieb is the CEO of BizCover. The company offers multiple competitive quotes from some of Australia’s leading insurers online, in a matter of minutes. To find out more or tailor a policy for your beauty business, visit bizcover.com.au. * As with any insurance, cover will be subject to the terms, conditions and exclusions contained in the policy wording. The information provided is general only and should not be relied upon as advice. . BizCover™ Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769).

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PROFILE

DR SARAS – AND CO Dr. Saras Sundrum, the owner of three Dr. Saras & Co clinics in Sydney, has been helping her patients ‘look younger and feel confident about their skin’ for almost 30 years. She took some time out from her busy schedule to discuss her clinics’ success with Jenny Berich. When did you establish Dr. Saras & Co? “I established my cosmetic medicine clinic very early in my medical career under the name ‘Cosmetic and Laser Centre’. That was almost 30 years ago when only a few doctors were specialising in injectables, skin treatments and laser treatments. As this area of medicine has increased in popularity with patients and also grown to include many more exciting treatments my own practice has also grown to include other doctors, nurses, skin therapists and body contouring therapists. Hence the change of name some years ago to ‘Dr. Saras and Co’ to include my whole team.”

How has the clinic changed since then? “In the past, such a specialised area of medicine was attractive only to the elite and those with higher incomes but now with the growth of popularity of cosmetic medicine among everyday, average Australians (including many more men) our clinic has grown in size and now extends to three locations (Annandale, Miranda and Double Bay) and seven staff. The type and number of different treatments we provide has significantly increased, leading myself and my staff to be much busier all year round.”

What equipment do you use? “We have many machines which may change from time to time as technology improves. Some of our most successful machines are: • Pico laser - skin photorejuvenation, treating pigmentation, improving skin tone and texture and tattoo removal • Emsella- tightening pelvic floor muscles and helping with incontinence problems • Emsculpt - building and toning muscle and reducing fat on the abdomen and toning and lifting the buttocks

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IT IS REALLY IS THE GRATITUDE OF EACH PATIENT THAT MAKES ME PLEASED AND PROUD TO BE PRACTICING IN COSMETIC MEDICINE • Fotona laser - treating vascular and pigmentation problems • Coolsculpting and Cooltec machines - body contouring and shrinking areas of fat • SculpSure - body contouring • Onda - treating cellulite, tightening skin and reducing fat • Omnilux and LightStim devices - skin health and brightness • BBL (Broadband Light) - treating pigment and vessels”

What skincare ranges do you stock? “Our current skincare ranges are Jan Marini, Universkin and Obagi. I am very careful to research our skincare ranges for their efficacy and flexibility for different types of skin. They also need to be at an attractive price point so that our patients can afford them and also not contain such things as microbeads, which may be harmful to the environment.”

Which treatments are your most popular? “Our most popular treatments are botulism toxin injections for wrinkles and dermal filler for wrinkles and volume loss. This is probably because of their relatively lower price point and the ease of treatment. No-one needs to know that you are having treatments. Slowly these statistics are changing as patients are more interested in good looking skin and good looking, fit bodies. So skin peels, needling, hydrafacials and our body contouring devices such as Emsculpt, Coolsculpting, Cooltec and Onda are gaining popularity.”


What does a typical working day at your clinics involve? “A typical working day starts at 9am when there will be from four to six staff working at any one clinic. Individual patients are taken into each of the treatment rooms and spend half an hour to one-and-a-half hours communicating their needs and choosing the treatment they want. Talking to our patients and explaining the benefits and risks of treatments and then achieving the results they want make up a large part of our day. Often, coffee breaks and lunchtime are forgotten as days can get very busy but working with a great team of professionals who you respect and who have become your friends makes for an enjoyable day! I do not believe in long crowded days of work as people do not produce their best if they are overworked.”

What are some of the biggest successes you’ve had at the career/clinic (so far)? “I really think that my biggest success is that I have had a practice in cosmetic medicine for almost 30 years, because over the years, we have been able to anticipate what patients want in terms of treatments. I am proud to have so many patients who have been seeing me regularly for over 20 years. They have become my friends and I so appreciate the trust they have in me to provide their cosmetic medical treatments. We have had many famous celebrities as patients but it is really the gratitude of each patient that I have treated that makes me pleased and proud to be practicing in tcosmetic medicine.”

What are some of the biggest challenges that you have faced in your career/clinic (so far)? “The area of cosmetic medicine faces many challenges. One of the most significant is that there are so many unqualified and poorly trained people administering treatments and putting patients at risk. Also, I believe that in this age of ‘bigger and more is best’ the beauty and charm of treating patients to look naturally beautiful and not deformed has been overlooked. This is what our clinics do so well. And, finally, the personal challenge is to find moderation and a proper worklife balance as I get older – very difficult!”

Any future plans you’d like to share? “At our clinics, we believe that the next big thing is going to be all treatments relating to the body and therefore we have invested in a number of devices such as Emsculpt, Coolsculpting, Cooltec and Onda. This is what patients want and are willing to invest in.” n

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INTERIORS

TALKING TRENDS WITH:

Blainey North

Anita Quade chats to the Australian interior designer to the A-list about her inspiration

What was your inspiration for the All Saints Clinic in Double Bay? “Unexpected moments of beauty created via the subtle complexities of reflection was our primary idea behind the reinvention of a private residence into a revolutionary clinic. Quiet and discrete on the outside, the interior combines flashes of artisanal luxury with pared-back elegance and finely calibrated custom detailing. Our focus was to communicate the unique approach and work of owner Dr Joseph Hkeik. Trained as a sculptor, he follows the belief that the human physique goes beyond perfect symmetry, and that true beauty is found in the unexpected aspects of one’s face. It was this radical take on the cosmetic process that incited the concept for the interior. That of an imaginary mirror; where every area of the clinic was conceived as if two perpendicular mirrors were joined and angled, creating an unexpected reflection and fragment of the human form, showcasing a dreamlike image of one’s self.”

Tell us about the colour palette... “Exploring the world of metallic, we identified unique hues of golds, bronze and silver which became key elements in creating an ephemeral and transformative journey. Upon entry, an other worldly hand-woven gold metal screen, by French artisan Sophie Mallebranche greets clients. The sculptural bronze reception desk of precise angular panels in linished bronze reminds each client of the proficiency of the clinic, whilst the softness of the fabric wrapped wall panels make the space welcoming and calm. The foyer is at once mesmerising and rarefied, whereas the waiting room is familiar, with the feeling of a luxurious residential salon complete with artworks, books and objets d’art. As one continues their journey to their future self, an arched corridor inspired by the work of lighting artist James Turell lined in Armani silk and lurex wallpaper, is uplit to create a golden ceiling and a magical illusion of never-ending. The corridor culminates in high gloss lacquer arched doors to incite a dramatic arrival to Dr Hkeik’s consultation suite. Hkeik’s interest in fashion and photography finds expression in the display of his private art collection which celebrates a diversity of beauty and has resonance in his own office where there is a heightened level of tactility. An embossed indigo leather desk, suiting-wool clad walls, Loro Piana cashmere covered chairs and rare Macassar timbers create a personalised space that is the polar opposite of clinical.

How do you find the perfect pieces? “I travel extensively and source original pieces for our projects from many unusual artisans all around the world.”

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Amy Cameron THIS DERMAL THERAPIST REVEALS ALL ON THE ALL SAINTS HERO TREATMENT – THE RED CARPET LASER FACIAL Tell us about the benefits of the Red Carpet Laser Facial? “The redcarpet laser facial helps with collagen production, smooths fine lines with gentle exfoliation. This treatment is hydrating and stimulating without having any downtime. It is designed to give our clients skin results whilst working on their inner energy to leave them relaxed with flawless skin the All Saints Clinic way! Simply put it is the best of East meet West in skin and healing practices.” Can you give us a brief description of the steps involved in the facial? “Without giving away too much of our secret steps, This treatment begins with a customised antioxidant peel, Laser to stimulate collagen production, LED light treatment to increase blood flow to the skin and reduce inflammation , a customised mask and a healing facial massage. How and why was the Red Carpet Laser Facial developed? “Dr Hkeik recognised the need for old fashion traditional beauty practice whilst providing the best skin technology at All Saints Skin Clinic. We realised our clients are very busy to spend hours on skin health and relaxation. So we designed this facial to provide a mix of performance and relaxation facial in a 90 min session.” The salon has a long list of celebrities what is it they love most about the salon? “All our clients love that they get treated with care, respect and discretion including our celebrity clients. Our clinic is spacious. Space provides a luxurious feeling and provokes peacefulness. This is something all our clients, including our celebrity clients, report. All Saints Clinic is a world away from their busy life and most of our clients choose to chill in our meditation room post treatment to recharge before facing the outside world.” Tell us about the products used in the salon? “We use a select variety of products from Cosmedix, Rationale, Society and Universkin.” How are these selected? “We analyse our clients skin needs and acquire products that fill a gap in our range.” Sum up the salon space in three words? “Peaceful, inviting and elegant.” What is your go to beauty treatment for an instant pick me up? “Lacto Light or Laser Genesis.” The one product you can’t live without… “Rationale DNA Night cream.”

What is your favourite feature of the salon? “The Grand Hallway leading to Joseph’s Office: Inspired by the work of lighting artist James Turell, the barrel vaulted ceiling is lined in Armani silk and lurex wallpaper. The combination of the deep grey fabric walls and the uplit golden ceiling creates the almost magical illusion of a never ending ceiling. This culminates in high gloss lacquered timber arched doors at the end of the passage inciting a dramatic arrival to Dr Hkeik’s consulting suite.”

Any tips on how salon owners can refresh their look on a budget? “In our opinion the most important aspects of an interior related to beauty is lighting. Great lighting can change the mood of an interior so quickly. Our tip would be to ensure you add mood lighting which is more decorative, such as lamps and wall lights. Just this can transform an interior.”

Describe your perfect beauty space? “A place of softness which feels different to anywhere you’ve been. It’s a place that feels unique so that as soon as you enter the space the environment becomes integral to your sense of calm.” n

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WAXING

RELAXING MAKES FOR BETTER WAXING Health and safety is a top priority in the beauty business. Michele Hetherington reveals her tips on how to look after physical health. WORK HEALTH AND safety (WHS) is an integral component of the beauty industry. Employers have a responsibility to provide both their staff and clients with a safe environment. Staff are also responsible for contributing to their own health and safety especially when performing treatments that require more physical exertion. Waxing is a beauty treatment that can be physically demanding for the therapist. Adopting the correct stance and working with the natural movement of the body will reduce muscle fatigue and prevent injury. Whether you are sitting down doing an eyebrow wax or standing for a full leg and bikini, it is important that you are mindful of your posture and the way in which you conduct repetitive actions. Working as the National Training Manager for Jax Wax Australia I am often traveling to conduct training workshops that see me working long hours demonstrating waxing techniques. Addressing the physical demands of waxing and how to avoid chronic injury are an important part of all my workshops. I think most therapists that have worked in the industry for more than 20 years would all agree they have suffered back, neck and shoulder pain at some point. It is important to have some form of regular exercise to increase blood flow. Strengthening your core will help take the stress off your back, lifting weights will build muscle fibre and activate muscles thus reducing fatigue.

Some tips for working safely • Prepare for yourself, don’t stress, don’t rush, breathe and smile. • Uniforms should be unrestrictive, flat comfortable shoes are a must. • The quality of the treatment bed is important. It should be sturdy and not move.

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• The height is important, it should be suitable for you so that you can maintain good body position. • Width of the table – this should be narrow enough so that you can reach the client easily but wide enough to accommodate the client comfortably. • Have your wax pots on a trolley that can be moved to suit the treatment, you should be able to reach them easily without having twist your body around. • Required tools, equipment and products should be prepared before starting the treatment so everything runs smoothly. • Position your client and yourself so that you don’t have to lean awkwardly over them. Turn don’t twist, bend down not over. • Accuracy is more important than speed. Be mindful of your posture, distribute your weight evenly on both feet and stand with a wide stance where possible with the feet under the hips rather than together, bend your knees. • Hand exercises are important to increase flexibility and endurance, practice twirling your spatula to help strengthen your wrist, stretch before and after treatment. • When waxing larger areas try to remove wax towards your body not away. • If you are seated to do an eyebrow wax hold your stomach in to engage your core this will correct your posture. • If you are injured, you should refrain from conducting treatments until you are fully healed. • Make sure you keep hydrated throughout the day. • Ensure that appropriate breaks are taken, try to book a variety of waxing treatments each day to avoid repetitive strain. • Treat yourself to a massage or nice long soak in a tub sometimes. n Michele Hetherington, National Training Manager Jax Wax Australia. www.jaxwaxaustralia.com



WAXING

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WAXING

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TECHNOLOGY

The Boom In

BODY SCULPTING

This year saw the rise and rise of slimming treatments highlighting the need for faster results and multiple area options. Josh Locker looks at the top five trends.

1

In 2019 we saw the launch of the Clatuu Alpha, a Cryolipolysis system with 7 treatment cup options and 40-minute treatments it is engineered to reach its target temperature FAST, reducing downtime during treatment. With the World’s First Dual 360° cooling Technology increasing efficiency by up to 18.1%. Each individual cup offers a variety of customised treatment options to effectively reduce fat cells resulting in a full body sculpting fully satisfying meet growing demands in body contouring clinics. According to latest ASPS Procedures Statistics as of 2018 show current non-invasive fat reduction and skin tightening procedures continue to gain popularity: • Non-invasive fat reduction procedures to “freeze” away fat increased 7% • Non-surgical laser treatments to eliminate fat increased 19% (up 55% since 2000) • Non-invasive skin tightening procedures that target fat and tighten sagging areas increased 9%

2

Teslaformer™ launched only this year in Australia and is a device which is used for muscle strengthening on areas of glutes, abdomen, hamstring, arms and pelvic floor utilising FMS technology (functional magnetic stimulation). By isolating muscle groups to stimulate muscle contraction 50,000 times in a 30-minute session (which is much higher than what typically the body can achieve through exercise) the body begins to consume fat in the targeted area. Scientifically proven, it stimulates muscle nerves, contracts muscles, increases the circulatory system and stimulates the fascia resulting in muscle tone and pelvic core strength.

3

One of the top training requests received our clinical department in 2019 has been ‘Dual Rejuvenation’ therapy for face and body utilising the Fraxis Duo system. A Fractional CO2 laser with combination micro-needle fractional RF offering an optimal combination of superficial stimulation and

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deep volumetric heating. Advanced treatment with micro-needle RF provides outstanding and low-risk treatment for skin lifting, tightening and rejuvenation for ageing and scars. Micro-needle penetration depth can be adjusted from 0.5 to 3.5mm based on treatment target areas for indications of skin lifting, tightening and rejuvenation e.g. wrinkles, acne scar, pore and stretch mark treatments. Fractional RF Micro-needle plus Fractional C02 offers complementary effects by applying precisely controlled RF energy directly into various depths of skin with minimally invasive micro-needles added with a superficial C02 exfoliation to address surface irregulates. We have seen many complimentary therapies to this ‘dual rejuvenation’ procedure including PRP, NCTF Boost 135A, LED, Growth Factors infusion, and Post Procedure Skin Masks.

4

Biorevitalisation – total rejuvenation from the inside out is incredibly popular with over three million bottles sold, Boost 135A® family of hydrators is now the leading polyrevitalising agent used in mesotherapy and topical hydration treatments throughout Australia and the world; the compound is cited in numerous medical reviews and is discussed widely at medical congresses. NCTF Boost 135A is the reference in biorevitalisation - offering incredible combination therapies with further enhancement of skin quality with evidence based efficacy. Study results of the hydrating power of NCTF Boost 135A® showed; + 147% Increase in fibroblast stimulation* + 256% Increase in collagen stimulation* + 90% Reduction in free radicals* Unique formulation 53+1 ingredients to enhance skin quality by providing an optimal environment for fibroblasts - 12 vitamins 23 amino acids 6 minerals 6 coenzymes 5 nucleic acids 1 antiradical agent + FREE HYALURONIC ACID The beating heart of mesotherapy and biorevitalisation can also be used with: lasers such as c02, erbium, and modalities like microdermabrasion, needles, CIT pen, dermal roller.

5

‘Mummy tummy’ treatment utilising the Ultraformer III - The World’s No. 1 Choice for non-invasive skin lifting & tightening treatments is a popular choice seen in many of our clinics. “Necks, eyelids, chins, jawlines, brows and areas of the body that are wrinkling or sagging, such as armpits, stomachs, thighs, will lift under the ultrasound technology of the Ultraformer III. n

Josh Locker is the Managing Director of Cryomed Aesthetics. www.cryomed.com.au


HEALITE II is a second-generation LED phototherapy system. LowLevel Light Therapy (LLLT) with HEALITE II is a non-ablative skin surface treatment system that uses light delivered through light emitting diodes to deliver pure light in precise wavelengths for the treatment of acne, superficial skin lesions, relieving pain, promoting skin rejuvenation and others. LLLT with HEALITE II can be used as a standalone therapy or as an adjunctive therapy to a wide variety of treatments, including aesthetic laser and IPL treatments, skin needling, deep peels and pre and post plastic surgery. Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Celluma PRO - both flexible and shape-taking, the award winning Celluma conforms closely to treatment areas for effectiveness. It is medically credentialed to effectively treat a wide variety of skin and musculoskeletal conditions. The device is flexible and conforms closely to the treatment area for optimal effectiveness and is designed to treat large surface areas. Can be used safely anywhere on the body and is portable and lightweight making it easy for clinicians and patients to store and travel with. MDL Scientific 0434 933 882

TECHNOLOGY

Dermalux Flex - is an entry level professional LED Phototherapy device featuring proprietary LED technology and the Dermalux guarantee of quality and efficacy. The Flex delivers clinically proven Blue 415nm, Red 633nm and Near Infrared 830nm via single wavelength LED’s to ensure precision and optimum optical power. Wavelengths can be selected as individual or multi-wavelength treatments via seven protocol options to target a wide range of skin concerns and post treatment application. Treatments are pre-set to a 30-minute duration and can be manually adjusted as required. The flexible LED canopy is secured in a base unit for application to the face and can be removed and positioned flat for treatment of the body. Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387.

SmartLux LED Light Therapy is a highly beneficial treatment for wound healing, skin disorders and general skin health. Fine lines and wrinkles, breakouts, acne and excess sebum production, scars, uneven pigmentation, enlarged pores, non-melanoma skin cancers, redness and inflammation, eczema, rosacea and other skin conditions can all benefit. Cryomed Aesthetics 1300 346 44

Omnilux offers innovative, effective and affordable solutions in the global medical market and is a world leader in light only aesthetic treatments. Established in 1998 by physicist Doctor Colin Whitehurst, with funding from the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology, Omnilux revolutionised photodynamic therapy, moving it out of the laboratory and into clinics. Doctor Whitehurst pioneered development of LED systems for more than 15 years with over 40 clinical studies. True Solutions 1800 808 993

Xen LED - contains a large number of high intensity LEDs per square area of panel to deliver superior coverage and greater output. It is the only LED in the Australian market to use chip-on-board technology, which is why it is able to produce a higher power output. Energy output is important because it correlates with how much energy will be absorbed by the body’s cells. The Aesthetic Bureau 1300 858 711

Salt Facial Skin Renewal Therapy combines three medical / aesthetic technologies into one versatile device that treats skin conditions including age spots, uneven skin tone, fine lines, sun damage, pigmentation, collagen stimulation and much more. It includes natural sea salt exfoliation, aesthetic ultrasounds for passive diffusion of topical products and high intensity, multi wavelength LED phytotherapy. Restore, replenish and rejuvenate with one versatile device. AesthMed Clinical 1300 747 258.

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WELLNESS Votary Antidote Night Oil Votary 02 8880 944

Pure Fiji Coconut Crush Scrub in Guava Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Ecoya Limited Edition Diffuser Pink Grapefruit Blossom Ecoya 1300 730 180

In Essence Pure Essential Oil Geranium - In Essence 1300 650 981 Salt by Hendrix SALT Scent in Love + Sunsets Salt by Hendrix 0452 183 503 Ecococo Stress Free Body Oil - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Glasshouse Fragrances A Taahaa Affair Spinning Carousel Candle Glasshouse Fragrances 02 9757 3080

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Oil Garden Hay Fever Ease Essential Oil Blend - Oil Garden 1300 650 981


Celluma ELITE

Celluma PRO

Celluma SKIN

The Professional’s Choice For Enhanced Skin Care Therapies

Celluma LITE

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daniel@mdlscientific.com.au 0434-933-882 www.celluma.com


EXPO

TAIWAN ON TREND This year’s Taiwan International Beauty Show was back bigger and better than before. Michelle Ruzzene experienced first-hand the latest in organic beauty, sustainable skincare, colour-changing cosmetics, innovative tech – and of course, countless sheet masks. THE 2019 TAIWAN International Beauty Show was another huge success. Organised by the Taiwan External Trade Development (TAITRA), the expo showcased the latest and greatest professional skincare, makeup and devices coming out of the dynamic, export-driven county. Now in its fourth year and held in Taipei, the expo featured 65 brands exhibiting across 82 booths from seven countries, who connected with almost 300 buyers and distributors from China, Hong Kong, Malaysia, the Philippines, Japan, Thailand, Mexico, Vietnam, Russia, Singapore, Australia and more. To make it easy for attendees to navigate, exhibitors were also categorised into five main areas: Taiwan Beauty Power, Beauty Gadgets, Fashion Trends, Exotic Charms and Start-ups. There was also a Halal Pavilion. The three-day event kicked off with glamourous girls parading down the runway, holding some of the key products launched at the show, followed by a welcome speech by Walter Yeh, president and CEO of TAITRA. Mr Yeh said he had visions of the show becoming Asia’s leading professional beauty expo. He continued by saying that more than 100 global buyers – including Havea Group and Sephora from France, Trade House from Russia, Powerwave from Australia and Parkson Group from Malaysia - had been invited to participate in a ‘Sourcing Taiwan’ seminar at the expo.

This year’s show featured five key themes: 1. Natural and organic skin care products 2. New brands and creative beauty 3. International beauty and skin care trends 4. Local plant-based formulas 5. Sheet masks

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There was an obvious focus on green beauty, with many brands exhibiting organic, natural and sustainable products and there was an abundance of sheet masks, which is arguably Taiwan’s most famous beauty export.

Exhibitors included: • Forest Beauty, a sheet mask manufacturer established in 2017 who were recently awarded the 2019 Pure Beauty Global Award. They promoted their core values as ‘safe, natural, effective’ and said they were proud their Nano Gold Series signature masks were used by luxury hotel spas around the world. • Bubble Milk Tea Mask manufacturer Annie’s Way, which has created a range of colourful beauty masks that utilise the world’s growing love affair with bubble tea, which originated in Taiwan. • Ching Seng Tong Cosmetic, who manufacture customised lipsticks and foundations, but also sell under their PureArt label, which features colour changing lip glosses and mini lipsticks • One Day Bio, Taiwan’s only organic skincare brand with four major international certifications. All of their products


Rezenerate NanoFacials are trending worldwide! Blemishes and Tone

BEFORE

AFTER

Courtesy of Sole Luna Spa, PR - 4 Facials

Fine Lines and Pigmentation

BEFORE

AFTER

Courtesy of Lash-Angeles, Los Angeles, CA - 1 Facial

Pigmentation and Blemishes

Taiwan’s cosmetics exports value reached $US83 2 million in 2018 , up more than 11 pe rcent from the prev ious year.

are researched and developed in France, where the company’s founder resides. • Amira, a start-up company founded by a husband and wife team and named after their young daughter. They have created skincare products suitable for babies and pregnant women. • Cellina, a pioneer cosmetics manufacturer that was established in Taiwan in 1940. The company exhibited at last year’s expo, which saw them collaborate with a large US retailer chain, and this year they had the opportunity to meet with a Canadian chain and further expand their international reach. There were also plenty of other standout exhibitors, demonstrating the latest in technology, skincare, hair care, makeup and much more. Next year, the 5th Taiwan International Beauty Show will move to Nangang Exhibition Centre Hall 2. The event will be held in conjunction with the Taiwan International Medical, Health and Care Expo June 11-13. n For more information visit www.beautytw.com.tw.

BEFORE

AFTER

Courtesy of Sole Luna Spa, PR - 3 Facials

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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 95


SPRING CLEAN Hot springs have been renowned for their rejuvenating and therapeutic properties for thousands of years. While in Taiwan, Michelle Ruzzene tested their sublime but potent benefits.

TAIWAN, OFTEN REFERRED to as ‘the Hot Spring Kingdom’ is ranked among the world’s top 15 hot spring sites. One of the most popular hot spring areas is Beitou, located just outside of Taipei, which has been visited by local and international tourists looking for some rest and relaxation for more than 120 years. It opened after Osaka native Hirado Gengo opened Tenguan, Taiwan’s first hot spring hotel, when the Japanese occupied Taiwan. It was the start of a whole new hot spring culture that spread all around the country.

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Today, the Beitou hot springs region refers to an area covering the Hell Valley, Longfeng, Fenghuang, Hushan Village and Xingyi Road. There are more than 30 resorts in this region, where guests can hop from one hot spring to another, each with varying temperatures and spa enhancements, such as jet streams, bamboo bottoms, copper floors to stretch out on and much more. The springs are marketed to tourists depending on their interest, with modern modifications of hot springs including hydrotherapy, spring pools, spring saunas, spring massage pools, health bathing houses, and spring health centres.


BEAUTY ESCAPE

One of the primary sources of hot spring water for the resort area is the Beitou Thermal Valley, also known as ‘Hell Valley’, which tourists can visit either pre or post soak as it’s just a short walk from the spring hotels. At first glance, the emerald green lake in Hell Valley looks stunning - but it is boiling hot and has a strong odour. The lake, which sits between 80 and 100℃, emits sulphuric steam that has an extremely strong stench that covers the entire valley. The water is high in sodium carbonate which is responsible for the lake’s stunning colour, as well as many other chemicals and minerals thought to be beneficial for health. Traditionally, because the lake was so hot, people would boil eggs in the lake and eat them. Today, due to health and safety restrictions, tourists are unable to cook their own snacks in the lake but can still buy hard-boiled hot spring eggs near the entrance of the park. There’s no doubt that if you are visiting Taiwan, a visit to a hot springs region is necessary. Whether you prefer hot springs, cold springs, mud springs, seabed hot springs or a combination of all four, there is a spring to suit every need - just be sure to pack a nose peg and thoroughly rinse off after bathing in the hot springs to avoid smelling like a rotten egg for the rest of the day. n


BEAUTY ESCAPE

RECLINE IN LUXURY

at the

LANGHAM With festive season around the corner it’s time to get your skin party prepped. This luxurious five star hotel is making sure clients are pampered with a special offering. By Anita Quade.

THERE IS SOMETHING undeniably decadent about taking some ‘me’ time out. It doesn’t always have to include jetting out of the country - indulging in an afternoon spacation is a great way to enjoy a couple of hours unwinding and will leave clients with a holiday glow. With the social season in full swing it is the perfect time for salons to look at offering special packages to their loyal customers. This beautiful bolthole is nestled in the heart of the historic Rocks precinct and close to iconic sites. The Langham’s Day Spa by Chaun is an underground retreat fit for royalty from the stunning interiors with soothing soft lighting, flickering candles and displays of the exclusive Babor products used during the treatments. To celebrate the festive season the spa has put together the ultimate indulgence package “Pamper Me This Christmas.” The decadent deal offers clients three signature Chuan treatments. The experience starts off by clients wrapping up in the spa’s stunning plush robes. What better way to feel polished from head to toe than with a lavish red mandarin, lime and cranberry exfoliation?. Guests are then treated to an indulgent 30-minute massage using exotic oils to relieve any signs of stress and tension. The spa uses luxurious French Babor products for the pampering 30 minute facial that promises to get skin glowing thanks to a lavish mask and plumping products that leaves skin radiant. While in house herbal teas are offered, detox juices and assorted dried fruits are offered – this pampering package offers an indulgent option of a

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glass of Laurent Perrier Champagne and delicious freshly baked macaroons to enjoy by the stunning 20-metre pool complete with dappled star ceiling. Guests are enticed not to rush throughout the day – with full access to the health club, steam room and Jacuzzi. Be warned though you may not want to leave! n www.langhamhotels.com/sydney n


masterful

| ˈma stǝfʊl, ˈma stǝf(ǝ)l, |

adjective performed or performing very skilfully: a masterful assessment of the difficulties. verb in a very skilful manner: a masterfully crafted wax.

Jax Wax Australia’s Daintree Blackbean range is a unisex wax which is ideal for strong, stubborn multi-directional hair that is suitable for every body. The Daintree Blackbean Wax range consists of beaded hot wax and a strip wax that contains pure Cedarwood essential oil and is scented with Sandalwood to appeal to the most discerning male. The wax range also is complemented with an After Wax Body Lotion that is enriched with Organic Hemp and Argan Oils and contains pure cocoa butter to support skin hydration.

“We will be using Jax Wax for many, many years to come it will be a staple in our Barbershop. And our customers love it!”

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Legends Barbers

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LAST WORD

SOPHIE

MONK

This Australian celebrity and television host has just launched her limited edition range of makeup for MCoBeauty including her favourite lip glosses and eyeshadow palette. She chats to Anita Quade about her beauty rituals and her skincare regime.

My approach to beauty is… “Simple, easy and quick.”

My one daily beauty ritual is… “Applying lip gloss! Seriously, I am addicted and that is one of the reasons my first product to launch with MCoBeauty by Sophie Monk is POUT GLOSS.”

My skincare regime consists of…. “Using AUS MEDIC CO Illuminating Peptide Moisturiser and I also use their Phyto-Nutrient Face Mask with Algae Extract. My makeup artist just got me onto Lonvitalite C8 Collagen Crystal Eye Sheet Masks which seriously get rid of any circles under my eyes before a shoot!”

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My one can’t live without product is… MCoBeauty by Sophie Monk POUT GLOSS in shade Wonder. I don’t have a beauty icon… “I just try and be the best version of myself I can be. I would encourage young girls to embrace their own beauty and not worry about what others are doing, do what works for you!”

The best beauty tip I ever picked up was… “How to apply highlighter correctly! Pick up your cream or liquid highlighter makeup and dot the shimmery product above your cheekbones, down the bridge of your nose, on the inner corners of eyes, and above your cupid’s bow. Blend out with a fingertip for a seamless shine.”


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EVENTS

EMSCULPT MUSCLES INTO MARKET BTL Aesthetics celebrated the launch of Emsculpt, a nonsurgical treatment for muscle building and fat burning, in Australia with an ‘Em Night’ cocktail party. Held at the at Sofitel Darling Harbour in conjunction with Luxe Cosmetic Clinic, an early adopter of Emsculpt, the event saw guests enjoy champagne and nibbles in between trialling the body sculpting device and spinning a Chocolate Wheel in a bid to win a treatment.

MAKEUP QUEEN LAUNCHES LASH LINE Chloe Morello teamed up Eylure in a collaboration that was an Australian first for the false lash brand. The launch was at Acre Eatery in Camperdown, where Chloe showcased the three new lashes in the range to media and influencers. The lashes named Positano, Milano and Capri - were named after her love of Italy.

VENUS SHINES HIGH Venus Concept hosted a private dinner for 60 media, prospects and clients 305 metres above the Sydney CBD. As guests enjoyed the views as well as fine food and wine in the iconic Sydney Tower, they also learnt about Venus Concept’s “safe, non-invasive devices that address today’s most in-demand aesthetic needs” – and had the opportunity to meet special guest, Dr Sonia Batra.

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SKINCARE SOIREE The rebrand launch of Aspect and Aspect Dr was held at the picturesque Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, Bondi. The new products and the new style and look of the brand were showcased to media and influencers at either a sit-down breakfast, lunch or an afternoon tea. Marketing manager Kirsty Sinclair, national sales manager Caz Peterson and national education and product development manager Joanne Healy spoke at the event about the latest product developments and innovations.

MASCARA TAKES CENTRE STAGE One of the breakout stars from Married at First Sight season five hosted an intimate breakfast event to launch a new mascara. Makeup maestro Sarah Roza showcased the new DB Cosmetics’ Mascara Centre Stage at O Bar and Dining, located on the 47th floor of Australia Square, Sydney. Photos Esteban La Tessa.

PALLADIO PARTY Cosmetics brand Palladio Beauty officially launched in Australia at one of Melbourne’s latest fine dining restaurants, Rokkbank & Co. Makeup artists, beauty enthusiasts, influencers and foodies came out in their droves to hear about the latest venture by Rob Tamburro, who is also the founder of Bodyography Australia. Guests sipped champagne as they watched makeup artists through a glass floor prepping six models down below in the cellar. Following speeches and some amazing words from motivational speaker Chico Johnson, the hatch to the cellar was opened and models paraded around they party.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 103


EVENTS

LA SYMPOSIUM FOR SOTHYS

Photos: Esteban La Tessa

Sothys held an education and product launch dubbed La Symposium. It began with a video link from Sothys France with Christian Mas providing the president’s address, followed by marketing manager Stephanie du Chaxel introducing the latest product launches. Sales manager Anne-Maree Fawcett showcased the new website for Australia. The day concluded with a presentation awards event.

POOLSIDE LAUNCH FOR SUNSCREEN RANGE There was no better setting than the Poolside Café at Boy Charlton Pool to launch mesoestetic’s latest products. Media and influencers gathered poolside over a delicious breakfast to hear all about the new mesoprotech sunscreen range. Mesoestetic international trainer Sabine Wallez and export area manager John Singleton educated guests about the new products with an informative PowerPoint presentation while they dined on a choice of a healthy breakfast bowl, brioche French toast or poached eggs.

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70TH BIRTHDAY BASH Frostbland celebrated its 70th birthday with an exclusive cocktail party in the Richard Wherrett Studio at Sydney’s Roslyn Packer Theatre. Executive chairman Uri Ferster gave a speech at the event, explaining the history of the company and how it came to distribute brands including Bondi Sands, Ardell, Lanolips, Alya Skincare, Sebamed and Elizabeth Arden fragrances.

GET GLO-ING Bondi Sands co-founder Blair James hosted an intimate lunch for media in the private dining room at Chin Chin for the for the launch of Glo Lights. Makeup artist Melanie Burnicle gave a live demonstration on a model following the lunch showing how to enhance makeup application using the Pearl, Gold and Bronze products. Photos Esteban La Tessa.

SKIN MASTERS NIGHT OF NIGHTS The best of the best beauty therapists frocked up for the inaugural AST (Advanced Skin Technology) Skin Masters Awards. The gala awards night, which recognised the achievements of salon owners and aestheticians from all over the country, we held to coincide with the Beauty Expo weekend. The black tie event saw ball gowns and bow ties aplenty at the Sheraton on The Park for a three course dinner, followed by plenty of drinking and dancing.

Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Michelle Ruzzene, at mruzzene@intermedia.com.au.

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AD INDEX

index

Advanced Cosmeceuticals 11, 33 Advanced Skin Technology 67 Artav Australia 79, 97 asap skin products 15 BizCover 83 Brighter Image 71 Celluma 93 Christina Cosmeceuticals 108 Comfortel 39 Cosmoprof Bologna 54 Cryomed Australia 2, 3, 49 Derma Aesthetics 21, 61 DMK Australia & New Zealand 59 Eckstein Cosmetics 31 Encore Beauty 69 Ex-Import Niche Products 1, 18, 19 Guinot 47 Inskin Cosmedics 17 Jax Wax Australia 99 Kitomba 87 Le Beauty & Nail Supplies 51 Lycon Cosmetics 4, 5 Masters Beauty International 101 MM Beauty Equipment 73 Pelactiv 9 Professional Beauty 107 Professional Beauty Solutions 13, 26, 27, 43 RefectoCil Australia 53 Rezenerate 95 Shedul 45 SME Cash 75 The Salt Facial 77 Timely 41 Ultraderm 81

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COME JOIN OUR PARTY!

For nearly 25 years Professional Beauty has kept salon professionals informed… and we’re only just getting started! Our magazine, eNewsletter, social media, website, roundtable series or business summit can deliver you vital industry intel. Professional Beauty believes education is an essential source of growth in the Australian aesthetics industry... so here’s your complimentary invitation to join the party. Hover your phone camera over the code to visit the website

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