WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
JUL•AUG 2021 THE BIBLE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
THE LUXURY ISSUE
Skincare to invest in
UNITED WE THRIVE
Beauty Expo is back – Here is Your Ultimate Guide
IN
1946
AU S T R A L I
2 0 21
40
ON TI
1981 CO NT
U
US DISTR UO IB IN
A
2021
Nature & Science For 75 years Sothys has been in continual evolution...with substantial reinvestment into Nature and Scientific Research. Uniquely, Sothys is in control of every aspect of its creative process from Botanical Research in its Organic Garden, Original Molecular Green Science, R&D in creating its own formulations, through to the sophisticated manufacturing of its finished product. This way, Sothys can guarantee efficacy, Safety & Security on all of its own treatment products.
Reduce the impact
of environmental pollution on your skin by 92% through Sothys *
intelligent green science
NATURE &
SCI E NCE
DETOX ENERGIE
™
Based on unique and exclusive organic active ingredients to reduce the impact of pollution on the skin and boost cellular energy to help protect the skin.
1.15’ INTENSIVE PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT in Clinic HOME CARE (retail line) IN SUPPORT
PROTECT AGAINST POLLUTION
Organic elderberry extract.
PATENT PENDING FR 18 53898
DETOXIFY Detoxifying peptides. Biomimetic design.
ENERGISE
Organic
energising Siberian ginseng root extract.
*Anti-pollution protection 92% - in vitro testing of keratinocytes exposed to urban pollution.
Sothys Australia
WWW.SOTHYS.COM.AU
EXCLUSIVELY IN BEAUTY CLINICS & SPAS
ww
ICONIC COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE
w.p ay
Celebrating over a century as one of the world’s most iconic cosmeceutical skincare brands, PAYOT is at the forefront of scientific innovation & herbal expertise
www.payot.com Let’s stay connected @payotaustralia
PAYOT offers unique beauty rituals that combine scientific technology, skincare expertise & a pleasurable sensorial experience. Achieve the results your clients are looking for with PAYOT treatments & home care that is at the forefront of skincare innovation. As a cosmeceutical brand, PAYOT skincare is backed by science & research. PAYOT are one of the only skincare brands that can proudly say, “We have our own in-house laboratory. Our R&D team expertly create the most advanced & patented ingredients leading to our innovations in skincare products. We are also a Dr brand, with expert skincare founded by Dr Nadia Payot, who was a trailblazer in treatments for beauty.”
yo t.c
PAYOT is committed to research & development. At the PAYOT owned Laboratories in Paris a team of specialized Doctors, Scientists, Pharmacists, Dermatologists, Galenic Engineers & Toxicologists provide futuristic innovations with ingredient formulation & technology. The PAYOT Laboratories, create & have access to the most technologically advanced ingredients on the world market. These ingredients work at a cellular level & deeper within the skin to achieve the results we are all looking for.
WHY CHOOSE PAYOT? We provide tailor-made solutions to help GROW your individual business. It’s our team that make PAYOT a success. Our people are our greatest asset & we work closely with you, the salon owner to offer: ∙ A dedicated & experienced Business Development Manager ∙ Monthly visits to add value to your business ∙ National Educator to improve your product & treatment knowledge ∙ Formal education in capital cities ∙ 24 hour education - PAYOT online Academy ∙ Tailor-made support - sale tools & monthly promotions ∙ Salon owner incentive trip to Paris ∙ Product incentives for your team ∙ Monthly advertising in Marie Claire Magazine & editorial press in national magazines ∙ Social media & marketing content library ∙ Point of sale materials & window displays ∙ Major product launch evenings ∙ Product samples & gifts with purchase
om
PAYOT AUSTRALIA continues to grow year-on-year. As a therapist recommended brand, we make you the hero! Make an appointment today to learn more about how PAYOT can work with you & your business.
MONTHLY ADVERTISING IN
To book an appointment, contact PAYOT 1300 367 969 or 02 9874 1166
GLOBAL LEADERS IN MICRONEEDLING
ARTG 315425 ARTG 338345
by CLINICALLY PROVEN TO
THE DIFFERENCE
Visibly reduce wrinkles & treat acne scarring, in particular, to reduce the depth of scars and to normalise the skin structure.
• Tilting needle plate for minimal epidermal trauma, increasing client comfort • Adjustable needle speed and depth
GLOBAL CERTIFICATIONS
• Low vibration and quiet running
n • 2 ye ar nsio w xte
• pa tion ten ina
ost-gradua te • p e
n
raduate educa t-g tio os
&
cross contam ing
tion, preci sio ova n inn
ations & clinica tific ll er
enquiries@skincorrection.com.au
ty with optiona ran le ar n • 2 yea nsio rw xte
1300 420 223
safety mem b ted
• preve ne nt ra
ion for all lev els cat du
theticians • aes p of
ality • unrival qu led
en • globa rov lc yp
• Engineered and manufactured in Germany
ty with optiona ran le ar
tion, preci ova sio inn n
&
en • globa rov lc yp
ations & clinica tific ll er
ality • unrival qu led
Medical device certification (CE0123) according to MDD and DIN EN ISO 13485 standard.
Proudly distributed by
Scan to become a microneedling expert
Changing lives, not just skin
es
t, e
th i c a l & au th
is proudly c als ru idu
Learn from leading aestheticians in our FREE webinar to see how we’ve helped them reshape their businesses and gain exclusive insights into their success. Scan for instant access...
ed dermatolog lop ica ve
care • doctor kin de ls
m • intrac ste ell sy
orrectio t ic c n
es l l t he p r i n ci
en
pl
a to
ee • derm av y fr elt
rgeted deliv ery r ta ula
uals adhere s
is an h on
m • intrac ste ell sy
rgeted delive r ta ry ula
ed dermatolog lop ica ve
py • derm a
• doct care or kin de ls
e ra
v id
ua l s
ee • derm av y fr elt
vid
m • derm ste a sy
is proudly c als ru idu
of Corneo th
Reshaping our industry through science and technology, bespoke innovative products and advanced education
personalised anti-ageing science the element for skincare experts
age element The latest professional anti-ageing system inspired by the most advanced aesthetic technology, which includes the [meso]epigen system™ complex. An innovative, completely customisable and integral treatment for all skin types and ageing concerns. Advanced Cosmeceuticals | 1800 242 011 |
advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au https://www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au
www.probeautysolutions.com.au
CONTENTS
13 14 16 26 28
July/August 2021
32 34 36 38 40 46 48 58 60 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 96
28
Editor’s letter What’s on PB Radar News Viewpoint – New accounting tips Cover story – Beauty Expo Australia guide Skincare: In love with New products: Skincare Makeup: In lust with Makeup: Enchanted by Masterclass: It’s cold outside Paul Frasca talks about going green Beauty Expo Australia exhibitors Style File: Victoria Houllis, Mannequin Hands Under the influence Salon View: Face by SM Rae Morris profile Skinfluencer: The e-commerce question Salon interiors: Le Petit Saint Salon Profile: Miss Fox Wellness: It’s called glowing up Drink your way to health Talking Beauty with Ruby Feneley Reasons to take a booking deposit Marionne De Candida talks beauty Profile: LYCON Cosmetics Career How I Got Here - Sothys Tax time Starting your own business Social Diary Last Word
ON THE COVER Beauty Expo Australia is back this year after a twoyear hiatus. We chat to the founders about what to expect. Read our Ultimate Guide to the event. Check out page 28.
72
58 40
92 12
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN Simon Grover MANAGING DIRECTOR Craig Hawtin-Butcher chawtinbutcher@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Julie Davidson jdavidson@intermedia.com.au ART DIRECTOR Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Ruby Feneley rfeneley@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper ONLINE & NEWS EDITOR Jessica Teas jteas@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au
EDITOR’S LETTER
Welcome to our winter Luxury Issue – we always love working on this edition. It’s a chance to check out the latest luxe offerings on the market, which involves everything from skincare, makeup and wellness to treatments. We have rounded up all the newbies on the block which are perfect for your salon and clients. These tips will help you amp up that luxurious edge – and during these times who doesn’t want a little extra sparkle! We are pleased to announce that we have paired up with Reed Exhibitions as a major sponsorship partner for the exciting return of the much loved Beauty Expo Australia, which makes a much-anticipated comeback after a two-year hiatus. Turn to our cover story on page 28 to find out what you need to know about the event and the new look format. We also chatted to excited exhibitors, who are looking forward to returning this year and showcasing their latest products. All of whom, have expressed that it is the perfect opportunity to network and liase with their loyal clients over a fun weekend. Read their story in Talking Point on page 48. Beauty Editor, Ruby Feneley has been busy curating the latest looks for this issue in our Renaissance Inspired shoot. Check out the latest skincare formulations, the glamour makeup looks that channel the 20s vibe and the hot products of the season on page 32. Let’s face it social media is one of the hottest marketing tools for brands, but just how much bang for your buck can you expect and who are some of Australia’s most branded influencers? Find out in our revealing Under The Influence story on page 60. In May, Professional Beauty had the pleasure of hosting the first of our breakfast series centred around Sustainability at The Butler, Potts Point. Thanks to all our loyal supporters who attended and for the overwhelming feedback received! It seems our industry loves a good meet and mingle so stay tuned for our next one. A big thanks to guest speaker Paul Frasca, the dynamic, energetic powerhouse behind Sustainable Salons. To see all the highlights check out page 92. Enjoy this issue! FOLLOW US:
Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA
ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037
CONTRIB UTOR S
Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 8,656 AMAA/CAB Yearly Audit Period ending 31 March 2019.
Copyright © 2021 BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.
Rae Morris
Sanja Maria
Marionne de Candia
“The amount of dedication I do put into the craft is massive - I didn’t come into this industry with a huge amount of natural talent. I had to learn from incredible mentors,” she says.
“The space has very special touches that incorporate floral tones, marble surfaces, soft metallic textures and crystal accents that make it quite a decadent and modern experience.”
“People are time poor, often overwhelmed by the complexity within the beauty product space, and are looking for clean, quality products that they can afford to continue with long term.”
We are thrilled to chat with one of the world’s most recognised makeup artists. This Sydneysider has been behind the looks of celebrities and has launched her own signature line. Read her inspiring story on page 66.
The founder of Face SM in Paddington shares with us the special touches that she put into her interior space to make it an inviting experience for clients. Read how she brought her dream to life on page 64.
Known as one of the top facialists in the world and the creator of Medi SkinSaver she shares her secrets to glowing skin and how she created her own line on page 82.
This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
13
PB RADAR
On our RADAR
THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY PRODUCTS SURGE IN CHINA POST-2020, BUT WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR THE SALON INDUSTRY?
Post-Covid the use of professional beauty products and brands has surged in China. Chinese consumers are now looking to professional products following a year without access to services. Over 40 European and American professional skincare brands are taking advantage of the trend, launching via e-commerce platform Tmall global. While a predeliction for at-home treatments doesn’t necessarily bode well for beauty service providers, interest in professional products and coincided with a preference for professional advice. Chemlinked Market Portal found that trust in experts like retail sales assistants and influencers waned during 2020, with consumers more likely to seek out advice from dermatologists and skin care professionals (China, Beauty & Care Market 2021). The Chinese consumer is one of the most influential beauty customers, setting trends globally. A shift towards professional rather than consumer products in this region is a promising sign for the international professional beauty industry.
FENN STORE OPENS IN PADDINGTON
Australian skin therapists Clare McColl and Nicole Manning have opened FENN Store, a luxury salon and retail destination in Paddington. Nicole Manning has an extensive background in the holistic beauty and wellness space. She practiced in Europe for several years before founding her own clean beauty business Tribe and working with ONDA Beauty in Sydney. Clare McColl has a background in clinical skincare, having practiced at the prestigious Double Bay skin hub Melanie Grant. The retail salon concept will focus on treatments and products that blend sustainability and “green” ingredients with science-backed results. So far they have partnered with Australian and NZ brands with serious-eco credentials including Sodashi, Emma Lewisham, Medik8, Sans Seuticals, Josh Rosebrook, and indie NZ small-batch skincare and cosmetics brand Maryse Beauty. The launch continues a trend for beauty service providers blending in-salon treatments with e-commerce.
14
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
FROM AUSSIE SALONS TO THE US D2C – SERUM CLEANSERS ARE LIFTING THEIR WEIGHT
A cleanser that leaves something on the skin seems counter-intuitive. In a surprise move, D2C beauty giant Glossier released a film-forming Cleanser Concentrate in April this year. The product is alleged to mimic the skin barrier by leaving a permeable membrane of amino-acids behind – something they’re referring to as a “skincare topcoat.” However, Australian professional beauty brands have been playing in this arena for some time. Shoshanna Eisner founder of Australian natural and organic skincare line QED says that rinse-free formulations integral to her skincare philosophy: “Cleanser is one of the most dismissed skincare categories - it’s the foundation of a good routine and an overly astringent cleanser will set you up very poorly.” The “strip and you will receive” mentality behind cleansers has been waning for some time with consumer education around skin sensitivity and the importance of skin barrier slowly increasing. For salon skincare brand Biologi’s founder Managing Director and Dermal Specialist Lucy Macdougald, the benefits of launching a serum cleanser with their Bc-Refresh were clear. Macdougal says, “We wanted a cleanser that would suit all skin types and could do more than just ‘clean.’” They achieved this in their Bc Cleanser by harnessing the natural, water-free foaming agent Soapberry. Macdougald explains: “The actives in Soapberry were generated in a water-soluble environment - so they do not look for water to absorb when they come into contact with the skin. Because of this, they neither strip skin of its natural oils, or wash away the beneficial active ingredients that are in the cleanser.” We’re here for it!
FAST FACT
Musician and makeup-mogul Rihanna is the most “skinfluencial” celebrity with 51, 680 annual skincare searches by Google users. The research, undertaken by beauty platform Recreate Yourself, also placed Paris Hilton, Kylie Jenner and Jennifer Lopez in the top ten (we for one don’t believe J.Lo’s infamous glow is attributable to just olive oil!) Image copyright Fenty Beauty
PB RADAR
BIOLOGI LAUNCHES PROFESSIONAL SALON TREATMENTS
Clean cosmeceutical brand Biologi have launched a number of bespoke professional salon treatments in partner salons throughout Australia and New Zealand. The treatments compliment everything from microdermabrasion, sonophoresis, dermaplaning and skin needling along with more holistic techniques like Gua Sha and facial massage. There are also a number of bespoke Biologi treatments have been formulated for face and body, including the Biologi Booster. Global Managing Director Lucy Macdougald says that as a professional Dermal Therapist it has always been her ambition to provide salon partners with options to deliver professional skincare treatments with the brand. Biologi products will be available in professional sizing. Salons interested in offering Biologi treatments can reach out to sophie@biologi.com.au
FAST FACT
In 2019 a University of Texas study found that consumers associate high-price with quality - particularly when it came to locally manufactured goods and businesses. Rather than dropping prices, Australian salon and brand owners should emphasise local identity in their marketing. The University of Texas at Arlington. “Consumers rely on price to determine quality of products.” ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 6 September 2019.
ULTRADERM BRING ADVANCED MINERAL MAKEUP TO AUSTRALIA
Cosmeceutical company Ultraderm are bringing award-winning US range Advanced Mineral Makeup to Australian shores. The mineral range contains pharmaceutical grade ingredients and is free from parabens, talc, fragrance and dyes. Annie Mayo, the founder, is a tenured member of the professional beauty industry with over 25 years’ experience as a makeup artist in film and television and a practicing aesthetician. Their double-duty Mineral Foundation, that can be used as a concealer, is a hero of the range that also includes 100% pigment lipliners and hydrating lipsticks. Ultraderm’s founder Pauline Vaalle says that Ultraderm was looking for a cosmetics brand that could compliment their existing Ultraderm skincare and Rezenerate Nanofacial ranges. She explained: “Having a mineral makeup range is important, as our salon partners perform a wide range of intensive facial modalities, and we wanted treatment makeup that could be safely applied. We were also drawn to the minimalist, easy to navigate nature of Advanced Minerals. Annie is not only a makeup artist, but a dermal therapist, so the range is easy to navigate in a professional beauty setting. The Shade-Finder guide enables salon and skin clinic staff to retail without needing to be makeup artists.” Advanced Mineral makeup is available through selected In2Skin salon partners and at www.advancedmineralmakeup.com.au
COMPARE COSMETICA, AUSTRALIA’S FIRST BEAUTY TREATMENT WEBSITE, OFFERING A PRE-LAUNCH TRIAL TO SALON OWNERS
Google has reported that 58.8% of potential clients will not book a beauty service if the full treatment menu is not available online. Fortunately for salons, Compare Cosmetica is about to make communicating services that much easier. Entrepreneur and beauty lover Amy Doja is bringing her beauty service comparison website Compare Cosmetica to Australia, a platform that allows clients search, discover and compare treatments on the go. Founder Amy Doja says “I was honestly surprised that nothing like this existed. We aim to empower clients with the knowledge they need to decide on, plan and save for their treatment with a local salon or clinic.” Partnered businesses will be able to have access to their dashboards with listing insights like click-through and engagement and gain an understanding of how their business is ranking against competitors in the area. Those wanting to get on board early can sign up for three months of free access at comparecosmetica.com.au/, an offer only available during the pre-launch phase.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
15
NEWS HOW CAN YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS USE MACHINE LEARNING WITH GOOGLE VERTEX AI? Global search giant Google recently opened its Vertex AI platform for public use, so that any beauty brand industrious enough to take advantage of it can create innovative digital tools for its customers. Professional Beauty spoke to the team at Google to find out just how a beauty business could best apply this tech. In a world where tech-led and digital-first beauty is becoming the norm, brands can gain a competitive edge learning about all the available tech out there and how it applies to them. PB: How can beauty brands use this technology? “For beauty brands, AI plays a significant role in the capabilities of augmented reality where it’s used to make digital overlays, like different hair colours or shades of lipstick, to appear and respond more realistically. A key advantage of Vertex AI for beauty brands is the ability to improve product offerings, whether that’s recommendations on treating clinical skin concerns or the ability for customers to better test products virtually when shopping online.”
HUDA BEAUTY FOUNDER HUDA KATTAN BACKS BEAUTY TECH WITH INVESTMENT IN FRESHA SALON BOOKING SOFTWARE Huda Kattan, founder of Huda Beauty, has invested in Fresha salon booking software via HB Investments. Kattan, one of the original beauty influencers turned brand founders, created Huda Beauty in 2013 after leaving a job in finance to become a makeup artist and beauty blogger in 2010. She has nearly 50 million followers on Instagram (nearly double the entire Australian population), and created investment fund HB Investments in 2017, which looks set to delve into the world of beauty tech with a round of funding sunk into London-based Fresha. This funding round for Fresha, in which HB Investments participated, closed with $100 million in financing, and was led by New York-based General Atlantic, who have invested in tech giants like Facebook, Snap and Airbnb. According to TechCrunch, Fresh has nearly 50,000 business customers (partner salons, spas, barbershops and more) and approximately 150,000 stylists and professionals on its platform, across 120+ countries with tens of millions of beauty and wellness appointments booked each month. Fresha is a subscription-free salon booking software and app, and is the world’s only platform to offer free-touse, fully featured booking and POS software for salons and spas. The company makes its revenue on booking
16
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
PB: What support services are available from Google? “Google Cloud offers training courses to help businesses maximise the technology, as well as written resources on our website. Customers can also work closely with our sales teams to ensure they have a smooth onboarding.” PB: Are there ways for small businesses to use it well or do you need a lot of in-house tech know-how? “Vertex AI requires 80 percent fewer lines of code to train a model versus competitive platforms. This means that data scientists and ML engineers across all levels of expertise can implement ML operations to efficiently build and manage ML projects throughout the entire development lifecycle. It’s important that small businesses are able to offer modernised capabilities like this to replicate in-store shopping experiences, especially in a time of chronic COVID disruption and as consumers continue to embrace ecommerce.” PB: What are the full extent of the capabilities here? “The potential applications of Vertex AI are extensive. For example, ModiFace, a part of L’Oreal, creates new services for consumers to try beauty products such as hair colour, makeup and nail colour, virtually in real-time. ModiFace uses the Vertex AI model to train its new services, allowing it to improve the capabilities of its platform as it gathers more data points. In an age of ecommerce, the ability of beauty brands to offer accurate virtual try-on solutions is critical. People want the experiences they were having in-store, in their home. Vertex AI gives brands the opportunity to leverage data they already have in order to improve these services and enhance their offering to customers.”
commissions. It originally launched as Shedul six years ago and rebranded in 2020 as Fresha. Huda Kattan saw vast potential for Fresha. “I’ve witnessed firsthand the positive impact Fresha has for beauty entrepreneurs. The company is a force for good in the growing community of beauty professionals around the globe, who are increasingly adopting a selfemployed approach. By making top business software accessible without any subscription fees, Fresha lets professionals focus on what they do best — offering great experiences for their customers,” said Huda Kattan. “We see plenty of exciting opportunities for Fresha to work together closely with Huda Kattan and her team, particularly in the space of beauty product ecommerce,” said Fresha Founder and CEO William Zeqiri. “The beauty industry is on the verge of a major transition online. Fresha is leading the way with free software for salons, barbershops and spas around the world. Our tools for online bookings and automated marketing, with mobile apps and direct integrations to Instagram, Facebook and Google bring local businesses closer to where customers increasingly are; online”. Fresha Co-Founder Nick Miller added: “Huda Kattan’s wealth of industry experience, sheer passion for beauty, and inspirational story of entrepreneurship make her the perfect fit for Fresha. We are thrilled to be working together on new ways to leverage technology and unlock real value for beauty professionals and customers around the globe.”
Australian owned, Italian made cutting-edge skincare designed for Australian conditions
Three premium collections boasting high quality active ingredients
A SYNERGY OF SCIENCE AND NATURE
1800 242 011
skinvirtue.com.au www.skinvirtue.com.au
@skinvirtue
NEWS ARE FUNDED DIPLOMA OF BEAUTY THERAPY APPRENTICESHIPS COMING TO QUEENSLAND? It appears likely that the Diploma of Beauty Therapy will soon be available through a funded Apprenticeship in Queensland, according to APAN (Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network), and “qualifying salons will get remunerated for training an apprentice,” says the network. “This will mean that businesses that undertake to deliver the practical component of an apprentice’s training will be paid to do so. The full diploma will take four years to be delivered and the apprentice will be required to work within a salon or clinic one day a week. The intention of this program is to ensure that by the time the apprentice graduates they will be well versed and confident to work within a live salon environment with a full understanding of what will be required of them in an efficiently operated salon business.” The call for a funded Diploma of Beauty Therapy Apprenticeship came about due to industry demand from local beauty business owners. APAN, one of the key industry bodies involved in the process, says “Many issues are being investigated for this proposal and components being considered to include (but are not limited to): units of competency to be trained in at each Apprenticeship year level, restrictions and requirements for age and supervision in the workplace, pre-requisite entry requirements, and alignment to the current modern award.” JobOutlook predicts strong growth in the beauty therapy sector in coming years. And although the Australian Industry and Skills Committee noted a steep decline in beauty therapists Australia wide due to pandemic-related unemployment, they anticipate exponential growth in the sector over the next four years. Queensland is the state with the third most beauty therapist, with New South Wales and Victoria taking first and second place for most beauty therapists. Extensive work has been done by beauty industry expert and educator Gay Wardle to bring about the Diploma of Beauty Therapy Apprenticeship and an interview with her on the topic will be shortly online. For now, there is no specific information available for Queensland salons interested in training Diploma of Beauty Therapy Apprentices, but should become available as the details of the program are finalised. You can contact APAN directly if you are a salon interested in the program.
18
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
SHOULD YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS USE BUY NOW PAY LATER? WE INVESTIGATE. Recent research reveals that 5.8 million Australians currently have at least one Buy Now Pay Later account and nearly half of Australians are already familiar with the program, it’s time to consider whether your business should use Buy Now Pay Later with dozens of companies now offering it (Zip, Afterpay, Klarna, Google Humm, Latitude Pay, Salon Pay et al). Ashlee Laura, CEO & Founder of Organic Rituals and Eden Spas, says “In my business we use both Zip and Afterpay. I personally thinks it’s great for salons and spas, as one of the main areas that brings in the profits is retail sales. Clients come in wanting to change their skin however might not have the budget to purchase all the recommended skincare products upfront. So having BNPL options you don’t lose a sale.” But are you putting yourself in financial jeopardy by not collecting the full payment at the time of service? No, it turns out. Even though you aren’t collecting the full price of the service, treatment or product up front, the BNPL providers take on the risk where the consumer pays them, not you. You will be paid in full upfront by your BNPL providers, and the consumer then makes installment payments to them over time, usually in four installments with no interest and no extra fees. Your business will typically pay between 2% and 6% to the BNPL provider for use of the service, assumed credit risk and the hassle of dealing with late fees on late installment payments. One way it benefits businesses to use BNPL, says popular BNPL provider Zip, is that using Buy Now Pay Later “delivers not only an increase in the average order value but also fewer returns.” You can tap into the pool of potential customers who aren’t flush with cash, and it’s a surprisingly large swath of the population. Laura says “100% I think all business should have BNPL available for their clients. There are a lot of people that live week to week so BBPL allows them to purchase big ticket items and pay it off slowly.” Though she doesn’t think it’s a good tool for professionals to use in a B2B capacity, to buy stock or devices. “BNPL for B2B I personally disagree with,” she says. “The business owner starts to chase their tail trying to pay off all their accounts. I have worked with too many salon owners that are in so much financial debt because of BNPL. So from a salon owners perceptive I don’t think salon owners should be using BNPL to purchase stock.” “For business owners, implementing a Buy Now Pay Later option for customers can help meet expectations for diverse payment options and deliver a transparent, budget-friendly and responsible way to pay for largeticket items,” says Zip. This results in not only greater customer satisfaction but also increased immediate sales and average order values for retailers.”
A note of caution
While it sounds like an easy decision to use BNPL, there are still some things to be aware of. Be careful of accidentally eating into your profit margins on services and treatments you would have performed or products you would have sold anyway. Sometimes it can be hard to really measure how much lift something like BNPL is driving. For example, if regular/ repeat customers decide to use BNPL instead of paying at the time of service as they historically have, you could be in trouble as you’re now paying a fee on that service (of anywhere from 2% to 6%) when you would have gotten 100% of the price before. Laura agrees, saying “The negatives are that these companies take a percentage to process the sales, while its not large it all adds up.”
ww .au
om
k.c oo
all
r tu na w. MADE IN AUSTRALIA | NATURALLOOK.COM.AU | INFO@ARTAV.COM.AU | +61 8 8300 1999 | www.naturallook.com.au
NATURAL LOOK AUSTRALIA
NEWS HOW PINTEREST IDEA PINS CAN WORK FOR YOUR BEAUTY BRAND More than ever, we want interactive content – we want to see the mood board come to life, watch our style inspiration put together yet another chic outfit, and salivate as our favourite chef bakes the perfect focaccia. Pinterest has launched Idea Pins, which is a video-first feature that will compete with TikTok and Instagram’s Reels for market share of social video content and eyeballs. For brands that already use Pinterest, getting into Idea Pins early can have the same sort of effect that being an early adopter of Reels had on Instagram, giving you more access to a wider audience as Instagram promoted Reels across its platform. Professional Beauty spoke with Head of Content and Creators for Pinterest Australia, Zoe Pearson, to learn more about how this feature could be successfully used by beauty brands and businesses. PB: How can beauty businesses best use this feature? “With the launch of Idea Pins beauty brands with a Pinterest business account can now easily create inspiring and actionable content to build an engaged community on the platform. Idea Pins enable Pinterest users to view inspirational videos and images and get the step-by-step breakdown without having to click out or leave the app. In the past month, we’ve seen 9x the average comment rate on Idea Pins compared to standard Pins.”
WHAT DO NEW SUPERANNUATION RULES MEAN FOR YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS? Recent changes announced have confirmed that the increase to 12% in employer super contributions will be reality in coming years, though, rising from the current 9.5% of an employee’s wages to 12% by 2025, a move supported by approximately 75% of Australians, according to the Association of Superannuation Funds of Australia. Stefanie Milla of the newly formed Aesthetic and Beauty Industry Council (ABIC) and founder of skincare brand Dermalist says, “A vast majority of the aesthetic and beauty industry is run by small businesses, and last year both employees and employers in the industry suffered during the shutdowns. Some concerns that may arise for both employees and employers are, that some businesses are not able to afford the increase, and that this will inadvertently cause a reduction in employee hours, or a rise in a business’s prices in order to be able to afford the increase.” New rules do not take effect immediately, so you have time to set up systems to help pay into super funds. If you don’t already, talk to your employees about joining a compliant fund. Tools exist to help small businesses pay super contributions like the Small Business Super Clearing House, which an accountant or bookkeeper can use to make payments on your behalf (which all have to be done the SuperStream way, as per the ATO website). Make sure super funds chosen by your employees are compliant or your contributions won’t be tax deductible.
20
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
PB: What makes this different from other social tools? “With Idea Pins, beauty brands can easily publish high quality, long lasting, save-able content directly on Pinterest. This madefor-Pinterest format gives beauty brands all the elements they need to tell their story and inspire, from in-app video recording to made-for-doing publishing features like instructions and ingredient templates. Idea Pins are different because they capture what makes Pinterest special – ideas and inspiration. On Pinterest, great content is surfaced and resurfaced over and over again—for months, not minutes. That means a brand’s hard work to create compelling content simply works harder. And, we serve it to new audiences the moment they are most open to receiving it, not just when they happen to publish it.” PB: What are some examples of content they can create? “Idea Pins are one of the top ways we’re bringing inspiration to action through content. We’re already seeing a lot of inspiring and engaging content come from Australian creators that have an early play with Idea Pins. From Luxe with Love, Dan Churchill, GRLKND and Inspiring Wit these creators are growing their audiences on Pinterest with beauty ideas like an easy date night makeup look, wellness inspiration like how to create a productive home office space, and a how-to on a sweet potato jacket recipe.’ PB: What’s the most popular content posted? “Millions of people come to Pinterest each day around the world to find inspiration. In Australia, Pinners are engaging with Idea Pins across a diverse range of categories including beauty, fashion, food and well-being. We’re seeing that Idea Pins that are most engaged with are the ones that focus on inspiring, inclusive and actionable content. Pinterest has always been a platform where people come to learn, try and create new things, and this continues with Idea Pins.”
If you work in a salon as a casual or part-time fashion and weren’t eligible for employer superannuation contributions before because of low monthly pay or employment status, you will likely be eligible by July 2022. Contractors are (and have been) eligible for super contributions if they are paid based on time rather than outcome. Speak to your employer about a super contribution on your behalf before mid-2022. They might not be aware that they will be required to contribute to your super fund no matter how low your pay (all minimum threshold requirements are scrapped from mid2022). You might need to renegotiate your contract, if you’re on one. Choose a fund too if you don’t yet have one, enrol and then provide fund details to your employer so they can make direct contributions.
ww ult w. m. .co
erm
rad Be a part of Australia’s fastest growing salon brand ✓ Australian cosmeceutical range ✓ Select 7 Skin Peel System ✓ Great price point and markup ✓ Easy to use and recommend for retail
Find us on
✓ Annual marketing planner in place with regular promotional activity
au
✓ Results driven skincare
Visit o ur stand G1 Beaut 36 at y Ex Austra po lia
✓ UltraRewards - Client Loyalty Program ✓ Staff skincare rewards
✓ Flexible Opening Orders ✓ Regular Salon Training
1300 660 297 ultraderm.com.au
NEWS DO YOU REALLY NEED TO WORRY ABOUT BENZENE IN YOUR BRAND’S SUNCARE PRODUCTS? It would be hard to miss the news of benzene found in a slate of suncare products in the US recently. A report from Valisure was published and the findings revealed that 78 popular sunscreen products they tested contained high levels known human carcinogen (IARC) benzene (an FDA “Class 1 solvent”). How did this ingredient end up in these sunscreens? “It’s very likely a contaminant from the manufacturing process,” David Light, founder and CEO of New Haven, Connecticut-bases Valisure. So don’t immediately bin all of your suncare products or recall the ones that you sell or make.It’s worth remembering that the majority of products tested didn’t contain any benzene. This appears to be a localised problem that could likely be solved with more stringent manufacturing practices. Michelle Wong, PhD., author of Lab Muffin Beauty Science says that we shouldn’t be too quick to assume this is a widespread problem or a brand-wide problem either. It appears to be very specifically related to lot numbers of specific products. And Paige Preston, Chair Skin Cancer Committee, Cancer Council Australia notes that locally speaking we should be confident in our supply chain and not throw the baby out with the bath water, so to speak. That a lack of sun protection leads directly to skin cancer, which kills thousands every where. “The Therapeutic Goods Administration regulates sunscreens sold in Australia to ensure they are safe and effective,” says Preston. “This means sunscreens meet some of the most stringent criteria in the world, including strict manufacturing standards. There is no evidence indicating sunscreens approved for use in Australia can cause cancer, however we do know that skin cancer takes the lives of around 2000 Australians every year. That’s why when the UV level is 3 or above, Australians should use five forms of sun protection, including slipping on a shirt, slapping on a hat, slopping on sunscreen, seeking shade and sliding on sunglasses.” If your brand makes or sells a suncare product and you would like to have Valisure test, they are accepting product submissions. Although this doesn’t appear to be as widespread a problem as it first seemed, hopefully these findings will compel brands and regulators to work together even more to ensure contaminate-free products for the market, much like they did with hand sanitiser last year.
22
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
MAXIMALIST, DIGITAL-FIRST IL MAKIAGE LAUNCHES IN AUSTRALIA The fastest growing beauty brand in the US, IL MAKIAGE, has launched in Australia, following success in other foreign markets, including the UK and Germany. The prestige professional makeup brand was originally launched 1972 by NYC-based makeup artist Ilana Harkavi, but has been little known outside of the professional circuit in recent decades. That changed in 2017 when a consumer-focused private equity firm invested $29 million USD in the company to accelerate brand expansion in the United States before taking it global. The brand re-launched in its new, maximalist, digital-first incarnation in 2018 by brother-sister duo Oran Holtzman and Shiran Holtzman-Erel. “When I acquired IL MAKIAGE a few years ago, I had a clear vision for the future – to build a global, professional, high-end makeup brand,” said brand CEO, Oran. “We have invested significant resources to further develop IL MAKIAGE, building a state of the art R&D division, enhancing our product offering, and creating a unique shopping experience in our mono-brand makeup boutiques. The brand ethos is maximalist, with saturated, bold looks the brand’s hallmark in a world that’s come to embrace minimalism and normcore. “Who wants to be low maintenance anyway?” says the brand’s site, “And since when is owning a single, lightly tinted chapstick a good thing? To whomever started this no fuss trend, with all due respect, we’d cry for you but our mascara is too damn expensive. Which is why we will be bold and unapologetic as we champion the spirit of all confident, successful women who are equal parts swagger and substance.” Its 90-second PowerMatch quiz is the cornerstone of its tech-driven, inclusive offering, using the power of machine learning to match tens of millions of people with the right foundations and concealers with more than 90% accuracy, even without a visual of the person. It combines hundreds of thousands of data points and information on 700 different skin tone combos, and the brand’s dedication to finding the right shade for everybody seems to be paying off with 340,460 reviews and a 4.6 star rating for the Woke Up Like This Foundation at the time of writing. It’s the single mostreviewed beauty product in the world. The Evening Standard reported in 2020 that “The company has a large in-house team of developers, data scientists and engineers. Last year, it acquired the Y Combinator-backed start-up NeoWize to bring its machine learning prowess in-house to improve on its algorithms. The founders, Omer Nevo and Yoav Cafri, came from elite intelligence units in the Israel Defense Forces, before founding the start-up with the aim of using machine learning and deep learning algorithms to transform e-commerce.” It is a heritage brand re-imagined perfectly for and of the moment. Stay tuned for an in-depth interview with Co-Founder Oran Holtzman on IL MAKIAGE’s Australian launch.
new smart response serum delivers what skin needs, when + where needed
hydrate brighten soothe firm
Become a Dermalogica stockist, call 1800 659 118 for more information
NEWS SKINCARE INGREDIENTS WORTH KNOWING ABOUT Luxury ingredients are not just for decadent foods, when it comes to beauty products Ultraderm has harnessed the power of luxurious ingredients that are not only decadent, they also have cutting-edge capabilities. All made in Australia using unique ingredients for your skin’s radiance and health. Our favourites include Apple Stem Cells, in their Skin Renew Serum and Rapid Retinol Serum with Liposhield. Extracted from the stem cells of the rare Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber tree, Apple has been hailed as one of the world’s most exciting breakthroughs in the treatment and restoration of ageing and damaged skin. The humble apple caught the attention of skin care scientists because of its incredible ability to be stored without effecting its freshness. It was discovered that when the tree’s unpicked apples were damaged, it was able to heal itself. The apple stem cell extract works in the same way stimulating a person’s own skin stem cells along with activating and restoring the skin. As skin ages, our skin’s stem cells are depleted, reducing its ability to combat damage, causing wrinkles and skin ageing.
Skin Renew Serum with Rejuvenating Apple Stem Cells provides intense hydration and assists in skin rejuvenation. Featuring Apple Stem Cell ingredients along with Hyaluronic Acid and Lactic acid, this specialty serum visibly reduces the appearance of prematurely aged skin. Rapid Retinol Concentrate contains a synergistic blend of Retinol, Peptides, Liposhield® power house actives that work to rejuvenate, refine and illuminate the skin whilst reducing the visible signs of ageing such as lines, pigmentation and dryness. It might sound fancy, but Liposhield® works as a barrier to prevent oxidative stress from blue light emissions. This novel, ingredient is known to help prevent premature ageing and hyperpigmentation. The extravagant power of Liposhield® acts as an antiageing and protective active. Derived from a vegetable source, it protects the skin from high energy blue/violet. Liposhield® won First Place at the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award at In-Cosmetics, Milan. Liposhield® .Ultraderm, Skin Renew Serum with Rejuvenating Apple Stem Cells, 50ml, $98. Ultraderm, Rapid Retinol Concentrate, 30ml, $115. For details visit: www.ultraderm.com.au
www.kitomba.com
NEWS
HOW PERTH BEAUTY BUSINESSES DEAL WITH THE LOCAL SNAP LOCKDOWNS 2021 hasn’t seen the extended lockdowns that shuttered all but essential services for most of 2020, which was consequently a uniquely difficult year for beauty businesses. In Australia long lockdowns haven’t happened in a while but the so-called short and sharp “circuit breakers” have hit a few regions since the start of the new year. The thinking is that these are less disruptive to business and no doubt a few days of closure is surely better for the bottom line than weeks or months of no revenue. But how have recent snaps lockdowns affected local beauty businesses like Perth cosmetic clinics, makeup artists, nail salons and treatment rooms?
Perino thinks the government should be doing more to help as well, that it shouldn’t just be left to the businesses to deal with these ongoing snap lockdowns. “There needs to be financial help for micro-businesses each time we are asked to lockdown,” she says. “Perhaps proving revenue loss and receiving a grant for a portion of this? We were so well looked after financially by the government in 2020, it saved a lot of us. But as small business owners, we do feel abandoned by the government now.”
The knock-on effect
The positive outlook
Makeup Artist Jacqueline Parker, who runs Jacqueline Parker Creative and Perth Makeup Artists, says there is definitely a knockon effect felt long after the few days during which the shutdowns happen. ‘The snap lockdowns have imposed unique challenges for our business and clients,” she says. “Whilst the Western Australian government asserts that the short lockdowns only impact small businesses for a few days at a time, we’re finding the trend is that clients become hyper-wary of planning social events and booking hairstyling or makeup services for quite some time afterwards. A 3-day lockdown results in a ripple effect that inhibits business activity for several weeks or more each time.” Owner of Mi:skn Clinic Francesca Perino says it’s an issue for her clients because they’re dealing with skin issues that need routine care without disruption. “Primarily it has been disruptive to the client’s treatment protocols,” says Perino. “Our clinic specialises in inflammatory skin conditions and clients are on weekly treatment protocols for a period of up to 3 months. Interruptions to their plans, coupled with the stress of lockdowns and wearing masks, can really set them back.”
Revenue lost for good?
So many beauty businesses operate on thin margins and rely on bookings to make revenue, so being closed for three days at a time, even with a loyal clientele, can be hard to absorb for some. “Not trading can mean a revenue loss in excess of $10,000 a week. We usually make up for this the following week when we re-open, but certainly not in full as there would not be room and staff availability to double our treatment availability,” says Perino. Dr. Clara Hurst of Perth cosmetic clinic Blanc Skin says they unfortunately haven’t seen revenue recouped from the days they had to close during the recent short lockdowns.
Preparedness is key
However, they did anticipate that this sort of thing might happen and, says Dr. Hurst, “had contingency plans in place long before COVID, because you have to expect that the business will go through peaks and troughs no matter what’s happening in the world. Ideally, aim to set aside enough to sustain your business through 6-12 months of closures. Perino has also made it a point to safeguard the business from future snap lockdowns with good planning and creating a budget. “Financially we have ensured we have a budget put away for
any lockdown emergencies, to be able to pay suppliers and staff if lockdowns effect revenue for some time,” she says.
Government aid
But, as Corrine Boar, Owner of Luxe Nail Co., points out, this sort of lockdown is thankfully less disruptive than the weeks-long lockdowns that filled 2020, as, seems to be, everyone and understandably so. “I think the snap lockdowns are great and seem to be very effective. A week after opening our new Subiaco salon last year, we experienced a long 11 week lockdown, so I’m very grateful that lately when there has been lockdowns, that we have only ever closed for a few days at a time, rather than timelines similar to the 3 month lockdown of last year.” Plus, like most of the other businesses interviewed here, Luxe Nail Co. has an incredibly loyal clientele who do eventually return after restrictions ease. “We have been so lucky with our client experience and retention throughout these times,” says Boar. “We honestly have the best clients; they have always been very supportive amidst these lockdowns and also understanding throughout the process of trying to reschedule them thereafter.”
Words of advice
Perino has a few words of advice to fellow beauty business owners in this continued unpredictable environment, mainly “cut unnecessary spending, have a buffer of cash to keep you going during repeated lockdowns.” Importantly she stresses that you need to “PAY YOURSELF. So many business owners draw from the business rather than be on the payroll, which is what I did for 10 years. Since June 2020 I have added myself to payroll to ensure my wages are taken into account when budgeting for a lockdown, rather than find yourself with nothing left to draw on.” Dr. Hurst has seen a lot of success with diversifying her business’s revenue streams. It’s a great way to keep lost bookings from devastating your beauty business is making sure that clinic treatments aren’t your only source of revenue. “It’s also been incredibly important to have other sources of income to fall back on when the clinic is closed, such as our online shop and online consultations.” And Boar’s advice is to accept that we can’t control what’s going on around us, but we can control our perspective. “I try to keep a positive perspective on everything,” she says, and “try to breathe through the stressful times, and always try to find a silver lining. We are so lucky to be in Perth. We have been relatively unaffected by Covid, compared to other countries around the world who have really suffered. So whilst some uncertain times and income loss isn’t ideal, I really do feel these little short, sharp lockdowns are the best way forward and have less effect on small businesses in the long run.”
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
25
VIEWPOINT
Get ready for a
beauty payment REVOLUTION
For beauty suppliers and professionals alike, accounts receivable have long been an unwelcome and time consuming pain point, but a new system is transforming the business sector. Terry Eames chats to Anita Quade about what you need to know. AT SOME POINT, every beauty professional has likely faced a “choke point” when a critical product has been delayed, or never arrived at all, because of a delayed or missed payment to a supplier. These incidents have hurt the entire beauty value chain from supplier to professional to the end user who may be deprived of a product that they really want - all because of a back office glitch. Accounting can kill the glamour. That’s why major global brands including Revlon, Kao, COTY and L’Oreal - whose Global Digital Transformation Director, Cristina Monnoyeur, is driving the beauty behemoth’s tech revolution are turning to intuitive Cloud-based platforms to speed up and streamline their backend processes, platforms that turn the transactional into the relational. Up until now, the consumerisation of technology that has seen our lives become easier in so many ways has bypassed the beauty industry. The result has been that everyone in the ecosystem has struggled, but that is now set to change rapidly. Terry says, “This is critical because making time equals the opportunity to deepen engagement and loyalty in the beauty industry. Most beauty professionals know exactly where they are wasting time in the day-to-day running of their business, instead of strengthening relationships with clients, delivering the true happiness that turns customers into advocates. Too often salon owners and professionals are mired in back room processes, like paying accounts to ensure that product keeps flowing.”
26
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
“Tools and technology that can cut down the time you need to spend away from nurturing important relationships with clients, staff and suppliers are no longer optional - they’re essential.” The future of accounts receivable is built around human engagement that uses smart and empathetic user experience to support customers exactly where they “live”. In the past, accounts receivable was seen as purely transactional. Get the money in the door, get paid. The problem is that the relationship between beauty product manufacturer, beauty professional and ultimately the end customer is not transactional - it’s best built on trust, understanding and flexibility. How can technology make the lives of busy salon owners much easier by automating and empowering at critical junctures in the accounts receivable lifecycle? Here’s one way: business owners can reduce their ‘screen time’ and increase face time with staff. According to Steven D’Annuzio, an Adelaide-based salon owner who has been using the SurePayd platform in his business, “I’m able to reinvest the time I’ve saved by using the customer portal into team education and training”. Ultimately, the staff development goes directly into making clients happier - the most important relationship of all. The development process for SurePayd - a cloud-based software that transforms time-consuming, manual accountskeeping into an automated digital experience - revealed enduring obstacles in the supplier-beauty professional relationship. It was all about listening and then surfacing the pain points, reflecting them in the technology’s user interface. These are familiar challenges for business owners in any industry, but particularly beauty: • Needing 24/7 online access to check account balances, current and outstanding invoices, credit notes and payment history
• Wanting to make payments via your preferred method, whether credit cards or EFT, and outside of normal business hours • Needing to maximise cash flow by allocating payments against specific supplier invoices to unlock credits and reduce the total amount owed • Managing the accounts for multiple stores and locations all in one place • Providing book-keepers, accountants and other important stakeholders easy access to the information they need to. While big brands are driving the push for streamlined accounts receivable platforms that bring their network of customers together, smaller beauty businesses are scoring important wins in the transformation process too.
Customer portals brings business critical information together
Optimising the use of ‘business hours’
We believe you shouldn’t have to choose between beautiful makeup and quality ingredients.
.au com
Since relationships are key, the future, powered by this kind of technology and more, will see suppliers and beauty professionals anticipate needs, create flexible workarounds to reduce payment stress and predict supply chain logjams. Terry Eames is SurePayd Director of Sales and Partnerships and helps businesses revolutionise their Accounts Receivable approach.www.surepayd.com n
. keup
Even more coming in the future
Visit our stand G136 at Beauty Expo Australia
alma
For small businesses and independent beauty operators, spending traditional “business hours” to process payments, pulling information for book-keeping and accountants is a poor use of time. Switching to an online portal like SurePayd that’s available 24/7 is the natural progression of online banking technology. By letting business owners dive into administration tasks like paying invoices at a time that suits them, without being restricted to the business hours of major suppliers, cloudbased platforms simultaneously unlock greater productivity and time efficiency - the ultimate profit-drivers. Salon and beauty business owners who are able to manage most of the major supplier relationships using the SurePayd online portal are taking control of their schedules and re-allocating business hours to staff management and training, or taking on special projects that tell a story or make a statement about your business. Adoption of a relationship-focused platform can be expected to drive this kind of feedback from the beauty professional: “I spend most of my day doing the things my business needs to thrive. The portal lets me pay my invoices when it’s convenient for me. It’s seamless, I can see everything I need right there.”
Australia’s newest Mineral Makeup Range
iner
Being able to see a snapshot of your entire business at any given moment is an invaluable tool - for independent operators just as much as a national network of salons or retailers. Supplier brands are creating bespoke customer portals to put every element of the relationship in one place, with full transparency: account balances, all issued invoices, payment histories, statements and credits notes. It’s all there.
dm ance .adv www
INTRODUCING
Superior ingredients
Treatment Colour Makeup
Flawless results with 100% pigment Compact range Retail friendly
Flexible opening orders
Free from talc, parabens, synthetic fragrance.
FIND OUT MORE advancedmineralmakeup.com.au www.advancedmineralmakeup.com.au
28
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
COVER STORY
THE ULTIMATE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY EVENT
IS BACK!
After a two-year absence Beauty Expo Australia is scheduled to return to Sydney this August with a bang, reuniting the industry in the country’s largest celebration of all things beauty.
BE INSPIRED WITH this unparalleled opportunity for connection and inspiration with a community of like-minded professionals. With the whole industry at your fingertips, discover and experience more than 200 leading brands and products, world-class education, live demonstrations, and competitions across one wonderful weekend.
VENUE: ICC SYDNEY EXHIBITION CENTRE DARLING HARBOUR DATES: SATURDAY 28 AUGUST 9AM – 5PM SUNDAY 29 AUGUST 9AM – 5PM The legacy of Beauty Expo Beauty Expo Australia has championed the local beauty scene for almost two decades. The events and community have helped shape the future of beauty trends, innovations and product offerings in Australia and beyond, bringing beauty professionals from all over Australia together for one massive weekend. Whether you are a salon owner, aesthetics or beauty practitioner, makeup artist or student, this year’s event is a no-brainer for your business. “We know the overwhelming sentiment from our community is that we are ready to get back to business, and Beauty Expo Australia is excited to be a safe and engaging platform for the industry to reunite in person,” says Event Director Flyn Roberts. “Over the last 18 months our team has been working hard to refresh and revitalise the Beauty Expo format. As well as
extensive health and safety framework to provide a COVIDsafe event in line with government and venue guidelines. We have what we believe to have all the ingredients for an amazing weekend of beauty and we are excited for attendees to experience that first hand.”
What you can expect? Beauty Expo Australia provides an unrivaled opportunity for networking, learning and sourcing with a cocktail of marketplace, education and competitions. Meet and shop from Australia’s largest collection of professional beauty and skincare brands, equipment and products across 32 categories. Think brands like Payot, Medik8, Dermalogica, Inglot, Murad, Crown Brush Australia and Advanced Cosmeceuticals to name a few. And if your customers are conscious consumers, be sure to visit Spotlight, Beauty Expo’s new specially curated collection of like-minded brands, which this year will shine a light on the Natural Beauty movement. Spotlight: Natural Beauty exhibitors including Biologi, Waterlily and Own Skin have core values in natural, organic, vegan and cruelty free products. Proudly working with a range of event partners including Zip Business, Professional Beauty, Afterpay, Murad, The Australian Dermal & Laser Institute, Latitude Pay, Beaute Industrie, Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council (ABIC), Spa + Clinic, Beauty Biz and the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN).
WHAT’S NEW FOR 2021? The Australian Beauty & Aesthetics Conference This year sees the launch of a new education offering, The Australian Beauty & Aesthetics Conference (ABAC). With a
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
29
vision to enlighten, inspire and motivate Australia’s professional beauty industry, the ABAC is 2 days of feature keynote presentations, panel discussions, case studies and educational sessions tailored around the business of beauty, wellness and aesthetics. A platform to connect and meet with thought leaders and like-minded beauty professionals, conference allows you the flexibility to curate your own program over either 1 or 2 days, based on your personal interest and business needs. The simplified ticket options allow you to mix and match sessions across 3 simultaneous streams covering; The Business of Beauty, Dermal Health & Wellness and our exciting new addition; The Art of Aesthetics to build your own personalised education experience. “We wanted to give attendees the control over their own experience and not be locked into specific streams,” says Flyn. “At the point of purchase you simply choose from our one - or two-day options, and this gives you access to over 30 individual conference sessions across the entire the weekend. Which sessions are completely up to you on the day, with the ability to move freely between the 3 conference rooms or expo floor to create your own itinerary.” Hear from 40+ industry experts and personalities on redefining beauty in a diverse and inclusive world. Industry heavy hitters include Dermalogica and ABIC’s Emma Hobson, Beaute Industrie’s Tamara Reid, renowned educator Gay Wardle and APAN CEO Tina Viney. You’ll also learn directly from industry peers and salon owners like Sarah Hudson, Skin by Sarah Hudson, Carly Knowles of Belle Pelle Body Clinic, Daniela Boerma from Sydney’s Bliss Day Spa, Macquarie Medispa’s Karla McDiarmid, and Cosmetic Physician Dr Mariusz Gajewski of Star Cosmetic Medicine plus many more.
WE KNOW THE OVERWHELMING SENTIMENT FROM OUR COMMUNITY IS THAT WE ARE READY TO GET BACK TO BUSINESS, AND BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA IS EXCITED TO BE A SAFE AND ENGAGING PLATFORM FOR THE INDUSTRY TO REUNITE IN PERSON
30
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Flyn Roberts
The Business Couch Need some one-on-one time with the industry experts? Book a free half-hour consultation with a line-up of specialists in Salon Management, Sales and Marketing, Training & Development at the Business Couch. This new feature area allows you to get personalised advice and help on your specific needs. Available to all attendees, spaces will be limited so be sure to book your place in advance when the line-up is announced shortly.
Afterpay Main Stage Watch exciting demonstrations, tutorials and performances, live and included in your Expo Pass, right in the heart of the show floor. This year the line-up includes makeup artists Rae Morris, Isabel DeVries and Merton Muaremi, Cosmetic Tatooing with Junie Ye and Jessika Brigginshaw and brows with Fay Rezaei and Jazz Pampling plus many more to be announced.
Connection & Conversation Lounge by Beaute Industrie Meet you at the Lounge! Create community connections and network with like-minded professionals in comfort and style. Hosted by Beaute Industrie, The Connection & Conversation Lounge is coming to Beauty Expo Australia 2021! Open all day, the Connection & Conversation Lounge is your must-visit space to soak up all of those long-awaited catch-ups, sip on cocktails and form powerful connections with brand-new industry friends. Beauty professionals will be able to meet, mingle and continue the conversation with conference speakers etc. In classic Beaute fashion, this area will be an ultra-instagrammable space to capture those perfect moments to share with your own communities.
The Face2Face makeup awards are back in 2021 recognising extraordinary makeup artists for their craft, creativity and passion. This is the must-enter competition for any makeup artist serious about their career. Created as a supportive and inclusive space for artists to put their skills under the pressure of competition, the awards provide a platform to grow as an artist at any level. The four categories include Bridal, Body Art, Creative Makeup and Beauty Editorial with Australian-based editorial artist and 2014 ABIA Makeup Artist of the year, Becca Gilmartin at the helm as the Awards Creative Director once again.
THE THEMES FOR THIS YEAR, I HOPE, MAKE ROOM FOR DIFFERENT VISIONS TO BE EXPLORED AND TO GO DOWN MANY RABBIT HOLES IN CREATIVITY. SPENDING TIME WITH THE THINGS THAT BRING US PERSONAL JOY FEELS SO MUCH MORE NECESSARY NOW
COVER STORY
Face2Face Makeup Awards
As one of Australia’s favourite makeup artists, beauty writers and educators, Becca says “2021 so far has been an extraordinary experience which has impacted us all. One thing I love the most about these Awards, is that it’s a creative outlet with purpose - an event facilitating the opportunity to evolve your skill in Makeup Artistry amongst other artists. The themes for this year, I hope, make room for different visions to be explored and to go down many rabbit holes in creativity. Spending time with the things that bring us personal joy feels so much more necessary now.” Beauty Expo Australia 2021 is proudly supported by event partners Zip Business, Professional Beauty, Afterpay, Murad, The Australian Dermal & Laser Instutue, Latitude Pay, Beaute Industrie, Aesthetic & Beauty Industry Council (ABIC), Spa + Clinic, Beauty Biz and the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) to bring the industry the ultimate professional beauty event.
Book your tickets With 3 simple ticket options and access to up to 30 sessions at the new Australian Beauty and Aesthetics Conference (ABAC), this is our best value event yet.
TICKET TYPE
STANDARD
Expo Pass $40 Gives you access to the expo floor and free content on the Main Stage and Business Couch etc all weekend.
DOOR $45
1 Day Conference Pass $195 Book either Saturday or Sunday and have access to over 15 sessions across all 3 streams. Includes expo entry on both days. 2 Day Conference Pass Unlimited freedom with access to over 30 sessions across all 3 streams. Includes expo entry on both days.
$325
Book online at beautyexpoaustralia.com.au Interested in exhibiting? Beauty Expo Australia has firmly cemented itself as an essential part of the marketing mix for brands who want to reach and influence the beauty industry. The event offers an opportunity for beauty brands to showcase their latest ranges directly to a captive audience of 6,500+ key decision makers, motivated buyers and salon owners. It’s the perfect place to meet, network and do business with your target market, all in one place, across two fantastic days so why not? n Becca Gilmartin
With limited places remaining find more information at beautyexpoaustralia.com.au or call Rosie Mitchell on 02 9422 8937.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
31
IN LOVE Cold snaps taking a toll on clients’ complexions? We’ve rounded up a veritable buffet of lush lotions and potions to keep less-than-stellar skin at bay. Take your pick, from opulent classics to new cult favourites. Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
La Prairie, Skin Caviar Liquid Lift, Concentre Liftant, laprairie.co/en-au La Mer, Original Cream, 1800 661 392 Skeyndor, Timeless Prodigy, The Luxury Elixir, Vogue Image Group, 1800 554 545 Guinot, Crème Riche, Age Logic Rich Cream, Guinot Skincare, 1300 811 024 Madara, Age Recover Huile Visage Facial Oil, Style Patisserie, 02 8098112 asap, Liquid Platinum, asap 1300 131 970 BABOR, Lifting Ampoules, BABOR Cosmetics Australia, 1800 139 139 BABOR Perfection Ampoules, BABOR Cosmetics Australia, 1800 139 139 Calecim Professional Recovery Night Complex, Advanced Cosmeceuticals, 1800 242 01
32
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
SKINCARE
WITH…
Mesoestetic Radiance DNA Intensive Cream, Advanced Cosmeceuticals, 1800 242 01 Medik8 Advanced Night Restore, Advanced Cosmeceuticals, 1800 242 01 Secrets de Sothys La Crème, Sothys, 1800 816 599 Elemental Herbology Hyaluronic Booster Plus, Style Patisserie, 02 8098112 Image Skincare, The Max Wrinkle Smoother, PBS, 1800 625 387 Pure Fiji Luxury Face Oil, Stockist Details, PBS 1800 625 387 Change Skincare, Caviar Cleanser, Change Skincare, 1800 979 712 Dr NC, Concentrated Cleanser, Dr Natasha Cook Cosmeceuticals, 1800 814 669 QED Skincare, Age Rewind Cleanser, QED, qedskincare.com
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
33
Ultraderm Radiance Restore Kit, 1300 660 297
Sisley Paris Le Sculpteur www.sisley-paris.com.au
Skin Regimen, Recharging Mist, BLC Cosmetics (02) 8667 4695
Aesthetic RX AHA Cream Cleanser Aesthetic RX,872256489
Palm Beach Collection, Premium Range, Hemp Candle, Palmbeachcollection.com.au
Image Skincare, The Max Stem Cell Cream, Image Skincare, 1800625 387
Synergie Skin, Micropolish Powder, Synergie Skin, 1300 689 619
34
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
SKINCARE
Ultraderm, Eye Renewal Treatment, Ultraderm, 1300 660 297
Dermalist Age Defying Multicomplex www.dermalist.com
Dr. Hauschka Balancing Day Lotion (02)8765 1110
Awaken Organics Awaken Organics 2.0 Anti Ageing Nourish Day Moisturiser www.awakenorganics.com.au
Aspect Dr Aspect Dr Lanazyme Micro Peel www.aspectskincare.com
Guerlain, Abeille Royale, Eye Repair Serum, Davidjones.com,au
Dr. Naomi Skin Pore Relation Power Essence www.drnaomi.skin
Skinceuticals, Phyto Corrective Essence Mist, Skinceuticals, Skinceuticals. com.au
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
35
MAKE UP
IN
LUST
WITH…
Turn up the wattage this winter! Warm things up by pairing shimmering eyes with bronzed and glowing skin. The perfect complement to a full-glam look? A leonine laminated brow of course! Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
Sothys Paris, Teint Juenesse, Sothys, 1800 816 599 Charlotte Tilbury, Hollywood Flawless Filter, charlottetilbury.com.au Charlotte Tilbury, Flawless Eye Filter in ‘Diva Lights’, charlottetilbury.com.au Elleeplex Pro Fusion Lash and Brow Lamination Pack, elleebana.com Napoleon Perdis, Light Thief Liquid Highlight in ‘Bronze Honey’, napoleonperdis.com Rae Morris, Jishaku #2 Mini Kabuki Brush, raemorris.com Surratt, Artistique Classique Shadow Brush Grande, mecca.com.au Velvet Concepts, Abracadabra Under-Eye Brightening Pen, Style Patisserie, 02 8098112 Can Gro, Long Lashes Eyelash Curler, cangrowholesale.com.au
36
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
ww u w.c
lle sco r ti
MORE THAN MAKEUP DISCOVER WHY VICTORIA CURTIS COSMETICS IS AUSTRALIA’S FASTEST GROWING MAKEUP BRAND AUSTRALIAN OWNED SALON EXCLUSIVE BRAND SKINCARE MAKEUP ASSISTS WITH TREATMENT RECOVERY PHARMACEUTICAL GRADE MINERALS ONLINE STAFF TUTORIALS CRUELTY FREE HYPOALLERGENIC PARABEN FREE
. om
.c on
c ti
au
TO BECOME A VICTORIA CURTIS COSMETICS STOCKIST CALL 03 9421 5577 OR EMAIL INFO@CURTISCOLLECTION.COM.AU
curtiscollection.com.au
@curtiscollection
ENCHANTED
MAKE UP
BY...
Embrace the season’s dramatic allure with on-trend cool tones. From lips as dark and lush as winter fruits to glistening, pearlescent highlights and just bitten cheeks – it’s dark, Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
Jane Iredale, Glow Time Blush Stick in Glorious, Margifox Distributors, 1300 8509 008 Youngblood, Mineral Cosmetics Illuminator with Diamond Powder, Youngblood, 1800 625 387 Velvet Concepts, Crème Chic Blush in Maraschino, Style Patisserie, 02 8098 112 Mavala, Lipstick in Bourgoine, Cosimer, 03 9645 1933 Trinny London, Eye2Eye “Vision”, trinnylondon.com/au/ Ardell, Life Effect, Beauty HQ, beautyhq.com.au Bobbi Brown, Vitamin Enriched Face Base, bobbibrown.com.au Yves Saint Laurent, Rouge Pur Couture YSL x Zoe Kravitz, 150 Topanga Sunset, davidjones.com
38
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
ps htt i :// arg o.m nf . om x.c ifo
/ au
FREE 3MONTH TRIAL
b ro pp an
Advanced Nutrition Programme has arrived in Australia! Scan this QR code to discover what’s in the pod and see if you qualify for a free 3-month supply of Skin Ultimate by enquiring to become a stockist. Scan to enquire!
Be quick! Valid for the first 50 qualifiers.
Non GMO
Non Irridated
Internal Trials
1 02
y2 ut ea
Independently Tested
Cruelty Free
@advancednutritionprogramme_au /AdvancedNutritionProgrammeAU www.advancednutritionprogramme.com.au
*Terms and conditions apply. Visit https://info.margifox.com.au/anpprobeauty2021 or scan the QR code for more information.
Distributed by Margifox Distributors in Australia www.margifox.com.au
IT’S COLD
OUTSIDE... Explore the unexpected this winter, with twists of colour and unique textures to brighten up grey days. Beauty editor Ruby Feneley takes you through the top trends and techniques to bring to clients this season.
DARK AND STORMY Keep things cool with rich plum tones and loads of lashes. Nude lips, raw skin and a high shine cheek will keep things balanced. Carnival III Love Tahiti Palette, Scott’s Makeup & Beauty (02) 9418 900, Gorgeous Cosmetics Liquid Eye Pencil in Royal, Gorgeouscosmetics.com.au, Jane Iredale Liquid Minerals A Foundation, Margifox Distributors, 1300 850 008
40
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
MASTERCLASS
STRIPPED BARE Whether peach, pink, brown or beige in base, a nude lip is a signature – unique to you and essential to any makeup wardrobe. Add a slick of kohl and a fluffy brow to give structure and a sultry edge. Tom Ford Beauty Lip Color Matte in Flesh, Curtis Collection Glide on Gel Liner in Noir, Curtis Collection by Victoria, (03) 94215577, Jane Iredale PureBrow Brow Gel, Margifox Distributors, 1300 850 008
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
41
MASTERCLASS JUST ADD COLOUR A graphic wing is a modern classic, this winter, serve it with a twist against a zinging, block-shadowed lid. Keep the rest of the skin paired back and contrast matte textures with a translucent, wetlook shine on the cheeks. Il Makiage Inkliner in Black, www.ilmakiage. com, Danessa Myricks Dew Wet Balm Highlight in Clear, danessamyricks.com, Mac Eyeshadow in “Bitter”, maccosmetics.com.au
42
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
KALEIDOSCOPE EYES Discover your inner impressionist and combine watercolour pastels with creamy highlights and translucent washes of colour for a dreamy, ethereal winter look. Makeup Forever Flash Colour Case, PM Studios, sales@pmstudios.com.au , Curtis Collection Baked Blush in Bombshell, Curtis Collection by Victoria, (03) 9421 5577
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
43
MASTERCLASS LADY IN RED A bright red lip will take you anywhere, so let your client’s pout take centre stage. Simply colour correct lids with concealer, set with powder and skip mascara to keep the attention where you want it to be. Il Makiage, Lip Slip in Foxy, www.ilmakiage. com, Charlotte Tilbury, Magic Away Concealer, www.charlottetilbury.com.au, Jane Iredale, Pure Pressed Base Mineral Foundation in “Warm Brown”, Margi Fox Distributors, 1300 850 008
44
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
THINK PINK Universally flattering, a soft and dreamy pink adds a translucent flush to cheeks and (well hydrated) lips. There are as many shades of pink as clouds in the sky - choose from soft corals and pastels to flatter fairer skin or lush raspberries and cranberries for deeper complexions. Jane Iredale, Glow Time Full Coverage BB Cream SPF 25 (Margifox Distributors, 1300 850 008), Ere Perez Mango Lip Honey in Pop (Ere Perez, (612) 9130 3582) Curtis Collection Radiant Glow Illuminator, Pink Diamond Drops (Curtis Collection, (03) 94215577)
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
45
TAKE A MINUTE
THE MODERN
Eco-Warrior
Sustainability in salons is a movement that is escalating in the beauty industry as owners race to Go Green. One of those leading the change is Paul Frasca, Founder of Sustainable Salons, who reveals how the movement is gaining momentum and why it has been a cause close to his heart for more than 20 years. By Anita Quade
The moment that changed my life and started my sustainability journey was when… “I moved to Amsterdam in 2002 and ended up living there for the next eight years and after a few years of living in Amsterdam I met my partner Ewelina. I was just working in a hair salon, coming up with all my crazy ideas about what I wanted to do with my life and I talked to my partner who was studying fashion sustainability and it really blew my mind about all the supply chain issues of waste etc. I remember thinking about the damage it was doing to the planet. I thought what is happening in the hair industry? I went back to my salon and looked at all the waste that was going on the floor and wondered why no-one was trying to solve this problem.” I became more serious about the cause when I moved to Australia... “We moved to Australia in 2011 and set out on a journey to study salons waste and wrote a detailed report. We found that this problem was far deeper than what we thought and realised that we have to build something that is more than recycling, we have to build something under the banner of sustainability which is people, planet and profit and that is really what set us off on a journey of discovery.” We’ve come so far since then at Sustainable Salons am so proud because... “Today we have 1200 members in our program that are a reflection
46
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
of who we are – people that care about the planet, that love business and also want to make sure they are taking care of the people in our community.” I would say Sustainability is so close to my heart because of … “My partner - she really woke me up to the importance of sustainability. Before that I grew up on a farm where we were growing roses, we lived off the farm - we had chickens and olives, so as an Italian boy growing up our weekends were spent making salami or pasta, so I grew up understanding the importance of the land – from that and meeting my partner its been a passion project ever since.” I think the one thing the beauty industry can start doing immediately is… “Asking why? Why are we as an industry not embracing sustainability? why are we not an industry producing product lines and essentials that we use every day in our business more environmentally friendly? Meaning why are these materials being made to just be one use and you can’t even recycle it after use. Why are brands not embracing the conscious consumer who is demanding product lines to have better packaging and better natural ingredients?. Organisations like Sustainable Salons can come in and provide you with the platform needed to elevate your beauty salon to a new level for the conscious consumer.” In my experience everything comes from the top down this is important because… “If the CEO is not on board with sustainability and with the future of where the conscious consumer is moving as a brand then they are going to find it really hard to catch up later. I like to give this analogy – everyone was laughing at Tesler 10 years ago saying this is not the future, we are a well established car industry with diesel and unleaded – it’s impossible. The reality is that its not that Tesler was bigger than the car companies it was that Tesler understood the consumer. They allowed people to put $1,000 deposit on a car before it was made - most knew it would take many years. Over 600,000 people worldwide put that deposit down so that shows they had a customer base even before the car was made – no car company had ever seen that before.
There is an epic market out there today called the conscious consumer who is waiting for their favourite brands to switch and if they don’t switch the customer will go elsewhere.” My proudest achievement is really just… “Having the courage to take a leap into this sustainable world – it wasn’t easy for us to take a huge risk in our lives to set up Sustainable Salons, so I am proud of that. I have to thank the first adopters of Sustainable Salons who took that leap with us to come along the journey.”
. c om
On my journey I look back 20 years ago and see… “We got really entrenched in this but no-one else was so onboard at that time, so we felt quite silly. We had to lay it out in a certain platform that people could digest easier. Everyone wants to see blue skies and clean oceans – if you don’t there must be something wrong with you.”
V I TA M I N C P L U S S U N S C R E E N BY DAY, V I TA M I N A BY N I G H T
dik8
There are many pinch myself moments on reflection but a standout is when … “We put on our charity events. One of the biggest is the Eat, Shop and Chop event - there are 500 people including homeless, refugees etc that come along to our shelters and we provide free haircuts, beauty services and products you can take home. I do pinch myself and say to my partner look at what we created.”
Beautiful Skin for Life
.me www
HAVING THE COURAGE TO TAKE A LEAP INTO THIS SUSTAINABLE WORLD – IT WASN’T EASY FOR US TO TAKE A HUGE RISK IN OUR LIVES TO SET UP SUSTAINABLE SALONS, SO I AM PROUD OF THAT.
. au
There are so many plans going forward but the main goal is… “To pivot the company into a tech company and what that means is that we are becoming tech. All aspects of the company are going to be driven through platforms that offer everything you expect today from technology. It will be one click here and you should be able to do most of the things you need to do with us through that platform. Our next big thing outside of that is to grow our organisation to be accessible anywhere, anytime both here and in New Zealand.” My advice to beauty salons looking to be more environmentally aware is… ”Just make that leap and just say ‘I am going to plug this into my world. I want to be plugged into the conscious consumer’. Be loud about it and make your voice heard.” Three things that sum me up are… “I never give up, I’m future thinking and grounded.” n Professional Beauty magazine had the honour of hosting Paul Frasca as guest speaker at the first of our breakfast series titled Sustainable Beauty in May. To find out more about how you can go green check out: www.sustainblesalonsanz.com
Take your clients on a new skincare journey with Medik8’s simple strategy of using vitamin C and sunscreen in the morning and vitamin A at night. We call this strategy: CSA. www.medik8.com.au 1800 242 011
@medik8australia
TALKING POINT
BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA RETURNS After a two-year hiatus the event is back bigger and better than ever from 28–29 August. Anita Quade chats to leading exhibitors about what they will be previewing in 2021.
48
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
TALKING POINT PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
49
TALKING POINT
ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
‘We are proud to be showcasing the latest innovative complete body contouring device to join the Advanced Cosmeceuticals portfolio Cooltech Define by Cocoon Medical, a company we have recently partnered with. Cooltech Define is an exclusive cryoadipolysis device that allows the simultaneous treatment of up to four areas using four applicators. The ability to provide amazing results efficiently means high patient satisfaction and a superior return on investment for clinics. Its unique fat freezing technology and 360º cooling plates produces complete body contouring treatments with outstanding fat freezing results, in record time. Cooltech Define adjusts to the characteristics of the fatty tissue and the applicator being used, and ensures controlled and uniform cooling of the whole adipose thickness. This allows a greater percentage of fat to be removed in each session. With 9 ergonomic hand pieces that adapt to all areas, and the ability to use up to 4 of these applicators in unison, makes it a time efficient and effective device, beneficial for both clinic and patient. Additionally, there are 9 user-friendly diagnostic templates to ensure optimum results are achieved with accurate assessments and productive planning time. The device also features the patented Cool Gel Pad - 50ºC Smart Contact by Cocoon Medical. This is designed to protect the skin from the low temperatures during a cryoadipolysis treatment while allowing deeper penetration in the skin. We are looking forward to conducting demonstrations of Cooltech Define on the stand at Beauty Expo. We will also have all of our other brands on display, including Medik8, mesoesetetic, CALECIM® Professional, Skin Virtue, Plasma Pen and HyaPen Pro as well as our Lutronic devices.”
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“Beauty Expo is an exciting event that allows companies to connect with beauty professionals and the industry at large. It provides an amazing platform to showcase all the brands in our portfolio and also enables us to increase awareness of who we are as a company and what we do. It’s a great networking opportunity which allows our Advanced Cosmeceuticals team to connect with new clients while re-connecting with existing partners. Forging strong, reciprocal relationships in the aesthetic industry is the key to our company’s success. Beauty Expo has always been a great drawcard for the industry, but we feel this event will be even more impressive in showcasing innovative technologies and trends while providing an engaging educational forum. We are especially excited about being at Beauty Expo this year after the events of 2020 and being able to showcase our exciting new products, treatments and devices on a personal level, face-to-face. For this reason, we decided to invest in a much larger Advanced Cosmeceuticals stand than we have had previously, and we look forward to an amazing and successful event.”
Catherine Biedermann Managing Director Advanced Cosmeceuticals www.advancedcosmecuticals.com.au
DERMALOGICA What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
“Dermalogica has always been the leading innovator when it comes to professional treatments and at home skin care. From its inception Dermalogica was developed by our founder, Jane Wurwand in collaboration with a biochemist, Dr Diana Howard. As we have developed as a brand we have strived to use science backed by nature. With this in mind we see that the industry is changing, and more and more clinics are searching for something more advanced to support their doctors, nurses and dermal therapists. We already have an amazing product, and a full education pathway for our professional skin therapists however we recognise that many clinics want to use Dermalogica in more advanced procedures. This year we are launching our brand new Mediclinic pathway with a comprehensive education curriculum to showcase how effective Dermalogica is in the hands of dermal clinicians and medical experts.”
50
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“Beauty Expo is Australia’s industry event of the year. It attracts professionals from all around the country who wish to experience the latest innovations and technology as well as world class education from some of the finest speakers our industry has to offer. This environment of excitement, energy and professionalism that Beauty Expo brings is the perfect opportunity for Dermalogica to showcase our latest treatments, products and education. It is also the ideal way to network with business owners and various industry professionals and to connect with our treasured customers who all come by our stand to say hello and stay for a chat.” Emma Hobson Director of Education Asia Pacific Dermalogica www.dermalogica.com.au
info@lycon.com.au www.lycon.com.au
TALKING POINT
ELLEEBANA What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
“Elleebana has always been a world leader in the development of lash and brow enhancement products and over the years we have had the opportunity to be working alongside some of the greatest minds and stylists in the industry. Yes we have an amazing product with our Elleebana One Shot Lash Lift System, we are so proud of the one shot system and that is here to stay. However! There is always room for innovation and to broaden our offerings for our global family. We have listened to thousands of technicians and clients around the world and put our production ideas on the table and looked at what we can do to cater for the stylists that want to offer brow lamination and but also lash lift in the same lotion. “We are delighted to announce the next generation of lash and brow lamination is here. 2 years in the making with clinical trials, Elleebana is proud to deliver Elleeplex Profusion. We all know how important maintaining optimal lash health is for our clients and our new Elleeplex Profusion range delivers this with our innovative system. • Utilising a cysteamime HCL active and containing no thioglycolate allows for gentle and effective lash lift / lamination results which minimises the chance of over processing and keeps lashes healthy and maintains the bond integrity of the lash. • A synergistic system that incorporates the ‘Re-Gen – Next Gen’ which boosts hydration and strength in the lashes to achieve optimal results and lash health.
• • •
• • •
Last up to 6 to 8 weeks, with reduced chance of irregular grow out in the lash growth cycle. Fast treatment and processing time, minimal maintenance, easy to use single use sachets. Suitable for brow lamination (allows you to straighten brow hairs with confidence for clients that have unruly or downward growing eyebrow hair.) Strengthens, hydrates and protects. Vegan friendly. Gives the appearance of longer and fuller eyelashes without the use of extensions.”
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“We are so excited to be part of the Beauty Expo for 2021. Come to our stand to see lashes and brow beauty applications demonstrated by Elleebana’s team using the next generation of lash and brow enhancement products.”
Otto Mitter Managing Director Ex-Imports www.elleebana.com
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOLUTIONS What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
“This year, Professional Beauty Solutions will be taking a completely different approach to our expo display. After many set backs due to Covid-19, we know that today beauty salons and clinics are looking at technology more than ever and they want to be able to see, feel and experience these latest technological advancements. So, this year we have decided to exhibit all our brands in a unique way. Our space will provide a journey for salon owners and therapists, where they will be able to walk through our stand and see and experience everything that we have on show. With a strong focus on technology from small to large devices, two new brand launches, live skin treatments and our ever-popular LED Light Lounge, there will be something for every type of business whether you’re a home salon, single operator to a large medispa with a big team.”
52
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“We can’t believe it’s been three years since we last exhibited at Beauty Expo, (granted Covid-19 got in the way a little). But as much as we have embraced delivering our training and brand/product launches online through webinars and Zoom meetings nothing beats an in-person experience. We are beyond excited to be returning to Beauty Expo this year as it is such an incredible platform where we get to meet salon owners and their teams, as well as showcasing our brands and demonstrating treatments to a live audience.”
Matt Williams Managing Director Professional Beauty Solutions www.professionalbeautysolutions.com.au
Why Long Lashes eyelash enhancer? Long Lashes is an eyelash enhancer that helps nourish and repair your lashes, leaving them looking longer, thicker and fuller in as little as 4 to 8 weeks (full results seen around 12 weeks). Long Lashes contains vitamins, peptides and antioxidants that help to stimulate, strengthen and condition the eyelashes.
10 weeks
Before
Australian made and owned
Cruelty free and vegan
Hormone, paraben and prostaglandin free
Gluten free
Sulphate, phthalates and petrochemical free
Palm oil free
100% mark up for salons USE CODE: PB15 for 15% discount on all orders over $450 www.cangrowholesale.com.au
email sales@agenciesplus.com.au
02 9411 5550
TALKING POINT
CANGRO What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
“We are so excited to be able to display again this year at Beauty Expo as we really missed it last year! CanGro is launching their new Hero Hair Growth Booster. This powerful nourishing spray is a natural concentrated leave-in formula that helps to improve scalp circulation and hair thickness. Hero Hair Booster is designed to balance an oily scalp whilst strengthening and conditioning thinning hair, leaving you with longer, thicker, fuller looking strands. Key Benefits: • Nourishes hair to promote growth and thickness • Strengthens hair and prevents breakage • Balances and restores oily scalp • Split ends repair Revitalising natural formula Hero Hair Growth Booster is proudly 100%: • Australian made and owned • Vegan, gluten free and cruelty free • Hormone and paraben free • Palm oil free and petrochemical free • Sulphate and phthalates free Of course we are always excited to showcase our flagship product Long Lashes eyelash serum.”
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“Beauty Expo has always been an integral part of our growth as a company since we started four years ago. We have had a chance to showcase our products and salon owners love being able to touch and feel our products while we are there to answer any questions they may have! Over the years we have met international distributors and chain salons; and being able to meet face to face some of our loyal customers is always a lovely part of the weekend. We also love the opportunity to meet with other brands and discuss ideas, but the most exciting part for us, is happy clients and getting a chance to chat and receive feedback and ideas about our brand and products.”
Belinda Robinson and Felecia Tappenden Founders, CanGro www.cangro.com.au
BIOLOGI What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
“This year is Biologi’s first time exhibiting at Beauty Expo Sydney, and we are excited to share our unique, innovative approach to skincare. Launched in 2017, Biologi is a profoundly different approach to skincare that delivers unheard of results. We carved a new category In the industry as the first skincare in the world to provide consumers with Clean Cosmeceuticals in the form of stable, 100% active, plant phytonutrients, including stable, natural Vitamin C. Using exclusive and revolutionary CLECS II extraction method, our high-performance skincare has been developed from over 12 years of research and understanding of cellular health and function. We have perfected the ability to extract plant nutrients in their own liquid matrix, which protects the natural actives and allows the serum to perform on the skin just as it does in the plant. Our serums are supercharged with active phytonutrients and micronutrients and a full scope of minerals making them more effective at nourishing and protecting the cells, without the use of synthetics. We’re incredibly proud to claim our full range is the first in the world using CLECS II and is 100% extract, free from fragrance, no added water and contains zero synthetic activating agents. Our dedicated team is looking forward to sharing our full range of product innovation with the professional skincare industry by providing a stand that will
54
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
host education, presentations, booster treatments, new business meetings, giveaways and an interactive tasting experience featuring the Biologi serums.”
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“Beauty Expo Sydney is the leading trade show for skincare professionals and this year we have chosen to exhibit and showcase our Biologi brand as it will attract over 7,000+ professionals. As leaders in the Clean Cosmeceutical arena, we believe the Expo is the perfect platform to present Biologi to skin professionals. As a relatively new and exciting skincare brand, our goal is to build new business relationships, expose Biologi to a targeted audience, and to increase awareness of our Biologi brand.”
Lucy Macdougald Managing Director www.biologi.com.au
I
B
T H E
N E X T
N
Y
T
R
E
G E N E R A T I O N
O
L
O F
D
L
L A S H
U
E
C
E
A N D
I
B
N
A
B R O W
G
N
A
L A M I N A T I O N
I S
H E R E !
UTILISING A CYSTEAMINE HCL ACTIVE AND CONTAINING NO THIOGLYCOLATE ALLOWS FOR GENTLE AND EFFECTIVE LASH LIFT / LAMINATION RESULTS WHICH MINIMISES THE CHANCE OF OVER PROCESSING. A SYNERGISTIC SYSTEM THAT INCORPORATES RE-GEN NEXT GEN, CONTAINING AMINO ACIDS, SERINE, THREONINE, ARGININE A N D R H - O L I G O P E PT I D E-1 A N D B O OST I N G H Y D RAT I O N A N D ST R E N GT H I N T H E LA S H E S TO AC H I E V E O PT I M A L R E S U LTS . V E G A N F R I E N D LY. LASTS UP TO 6 TO 8 WEEKS, WITH REDUCED CHANCE OF IRREGULAR GROW OUT IN THE LASH GROWTH CYCLE.
H E R E ’ S
W H A T
S T U D E N T S
A R E
S A Y I N G
A B O U T
O U R
N E W
O N L I N E
C U R R I C U L U M :
This online course is very informative and educational, I feel confident starting my
Doing the course online with the videos as well as the written manual was great as
business from home. I love learning the breakdown of the science of lash lifting.
you can constantly refer back to any of the sections and rewatch them to refresh your
The ingredient explanation, cost break down, reactions, how to take before and after
training. Also it was great to have the online platform available during Covid 19 as I
photos, techniques for different eye shapes.
would not have been able to do the training otherwise.
- HANNAH REIDY
- HEATHER CODDINGTON
www.elleebana.com
info@elleebana.com
@elleebana
elleebana
TALKING POINT
LYCON What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
“LYCON is very excited to showcase the launch of LYCON Skin at Beauty Expo 2021. LYCON Skin is a bioceutical skincare collection formulated with state-of-the-art result oriented ‘superhero’ ingredients, such as Yeast Beta-Glucan, patented EXO-P™ Marine Extract and Hyaluronic Acid. This multi-faceted, multi-functional skincare collection is designed to care for the skin under extreme Australian conditions. It features a range of products in both a professional and retail size, making it suitable for beautician and client alike. In addition, LYCON Cosmetics are pleased to feature a new product in the signature, fast-acting ingrown-X-it collection - the new and fabulous ingrown-X-it wipes. The ingrown-X-it Wipes use a breakthrough formula that help minimise the appearance and discomfort of ingrown hairs after waxing, shaving or depilatory creams, while gently exfoliate and moisturise angry-looking spots. This compact jar with pre-moistened wipes is convenient for fast grab-and-go application, for both professionals in-salon, and clients at-home use. LYCOTANE Plus is yet another exciting new collection we will be displaying this year. Featuring anti-bacterial properties, the LYCOTANE Plus range is filled with a symphony of fortifying ingredients such as Lemon Tea Tree, Thyme Essential Oils, Aloe Vera and Shea Butter. This effective collection looks after your hands by fighting germs, while deeply soothes, protects and nourishes the skin. The perfect pair post-pandemic.”
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“Especially as we all missed out on a physical event for Beauty Expo 2020 due to COVID-19, we are very excited to be a part of this
year’s Beauty Expo in Sydney. We have a passionate customer base whom we look forward to seeing and strengthening bonds with, as well as having the opportunity to spread the LYCON love to new prospective customers. We love our customers and connecting with new people, and there is no better way to build a relationship with our community than by meeting them face-to-face. Our aim with this year’s Beauty Expo is to build mutually beneficial relationships with customers and other professionals that we will continue to develop in the future. In addition, the Beauty Expo provides us with the platform to promote our products to a broader group that might have little or no knowledge of our products, presenting us the opportunity to let attendees interact with our products and learn more about LYCON. Beauty Expo is an excellent platform to introduce all of our new products and promotions. We will have the opportunity to host product demonstrations and discuss the benefits of our new offerings whilst answering all questions, ensuring consumers get the most out of their LYCON experience. The team at LYCON are super excited to attend the Beauty Expo. To meet and connect with likeminded people in our industry and be a part of this fun and insightful experience.”
Lydia Jordane, Founder LYCON Cosmetics www.lycon.com.au
PAYOT What is your latest innovation on display at the Beauty Expo?
‘We’re showcasing our new My Payot products. Attendees will be able to ‘get their glow on’ with our superfruit range that is at the forefront of scientific and herbal innovation. To launch this range, we’ll offer some Superskin Healthy Glow Recipes to share with our visitors.”
Why have you chosen the Beauty Expo as a platform to showcase your brand?
“As a supplier of treatment skincare to beauty salons and spas we’re looking forward to speaking to the owners about our company and discussing how we can work and grow together. Last year, PAYOT celebrated 100 years of skincare innovation for beauty therapists and their customers. You could say that we have a history of success and this is one of the reasons why customers choose us. Dr Nadia Payot was one of the first female
56
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
doctors in Europe and in Paris in 1920 she invented the facial as we know it today with her cleanse, tone, treatment of the skin and facial massage. Today PAYOT continues to create salon sales and treatments to improve the wellbeing of clients. At The Beauty Expo we love talking to our current and potential clients. We have a prestigious history with innovative skincare spanning over a century. It’s a wonderful platform to showcase PAYOT and all that we have to offer salon owners and attendees of the Expo.”
Rita Smith General Manager Payot www.payot.com
ww
g olo i w.b
au
. om i.c
Style file:
VICTORIA HOULLIS Victoria Houlis, founder of Mannequin Hands, is a small-business owner who has reached cult-status within two years of opening shop. Ruby Feneley talked to her about growing your business, the perks and pitfalls of social media and surviving COVID and lockdowns.
Background “I studied journalism and worked in marketing and copywriting for fashion and hospitality brands, but my passion was always beauty. I trained and started working with nails when I was nineteen. I worked full-time in marketing for years, but I was seeing clients after hours and on weekends! I used any spare minute I had to pursue, what I considered then, a hobby I loved. My work in marketing specifically really taught me to scale ideas. I think big and my boss would always so “okay, but we need to work to this budget, on this timeline, in this location” – that ability has been incredible building Mannequin Hands!”
Taking the leap “I decided to devote myself to Mannequin Hands full-time in 2019. I didn’t know if there was “full-time demand” though. People kept asking for more appointments but coming from a corporate mindset I wasn’t sure if clients were available during the week, or even during the day. I had a lot of back-up plans, like specials I could run if I had appointment gaps, just to keep the cashflow coming in. I underestimated how much work I’d done building the brand. I quit my job on Monday, put my bookings up on Wednesday and
58
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
was booked out for a month. I had not allotted for lunch breaks; I had not allotted for bathroom breaks. It was a lot, but I consider myself really lucky.”
Social Media “Instagram, to me, is in some ways a bit of a fallacy. I had a couple of thousand followers when I went full time with my business; my following kicked off later. I personally find that no matter how big my Instagram presence gets it doesn’t translate to my earnings. I’m launching a new product and I’m interested to see if sales will correlate with my social media growth. People say they love certain things but that doesn’t mean they will buy them. I started making and shipping press-on nails during Covid and I’ve continued doing them for those who can’t get in for appointments. Followers see client work and are like “Oh my god, make these as press-ons.” But one of my press-on kits with the most likes, sends and saves has literally not sold a single set! Instagram is a great way to build community and set trends, but there is no way of knowing if anything that happens online will reflect the sales that you make, or the value people place on your work. In some ways as a small business you really need it, but it can also be a bit of a trap.”
Working with influencers “When I started I was really lucky, Flex (Mami) and Rowi Singh were people I knew socially. When Flex started coming to me her following was growing and by the time she was a regular her following had become massive. I really enjoy working with those people because they never came to me asking for freebies or expecting a PR exchange. Other than friends I don’t seek out influencers because I don’t really like the transaction of not being paid for work and I’m not sure of the value exchange. I have people that message me expecting free trade, it doesn’t make up for the time I’m spending because even if their followers are interested, my books are full. In a service-based industry where your time is crucial, I’m not sure I would back it, unless there is an existing relationship.”
Style “When I started doing nails, I had strong ideas about what I did and didn’t like. I was super into Japanese nail art which has a totally different look to anything else, you can pick it from Russian, American or British nails - it’s very distinct. My dream has always been to have Russian cuticle technique, Japanese perfection and American pop art references. That said, I’m still developing
STYLE FILE
SINGH FOR MOUNTAIN AND MOON IMAGE @MANNEQUINHANDS
my style. My biggest inspiration is fashion, and a lot of my art is trend focused. I oscillate between really cutesy girly styles or very nature inspired with Khakis, nudes, snakeskin and big pearls.”
Trends “Checkerboards had a huge moment, and I don’t know if it will ever finish, but flames are dying out. In terms of what’s coming up, blobby stuff, 3D and aurora nails are going crazy. Aurora started in Japan, and it’s been so exciting seeing it come here. A lot of the times trends will be blowing up internationally, but they don’t make it in Australia which bums me out! I now find I’m doing way less hand painting - everything is playing with texture or transparency in different ways.”
Working with clients “Because a lot of the work I do is conceptual, I always check in as we go. My advice would be to keep an eye on non-verbal cues! Often, I’ll ask and they’ll be like “yep, yep, perfect”,” but I can tell they’re suss! When I push a bit they’ll be like “oh, well I’m not sure about this” so then we can workshop it and ensure they’re 100% happy. You have to pay attention to body language. I’ll always try to combine everything a client wants. They might come saying “I want flowers, I want 3D but I also want glitter” - so I’ll be like, ‘Okay, how about glitter base, pastel flowers and a diamante at the center.” It’s just working to make their nail dreams come true. Ninety percent of people DON’T mean it when they say, ‘Do whatever.’ I’ll say ‘okay well give me shape and length
at least’ and they’ll say ‘well definitely round and short’ and then I’ll pull out a colour and they’ll be like ‘oh no, not red I want pastels’ and then I’ll say ‘okay, what about this’ and they’ll say ‘no, no I want butterflies’ so it becomes a very narrow definition of ‘whatever.’”
COVID-19 “Prior to lockdown my purpose in life had been working and building my business. Then it was all gone, and I had to find a purpose outside my business, just to keep myself sane. I had to come to terms with the fact that just existing was enough and I didn’t have to be valuable, financially or otherwise. By the time I had been on that journey it was time to go back to work and I just didn’t know how to feel. I think I’m in the middle of coming to terms with it now, because at the time I was in survival mode and didn’t have the space to acknowledge how I was feeling. It was the first time since thirteen that I had been unemployed, and I felt lonely and aimless. I think my takeaway from the whole experience was that my life’s purpose is to make people feel good, but it was the first time I learn what makes me feel good!”
Finding a creative community “I am lucky to have a friend Stephanie Tsimbourlas, who I work with closely on branding, graphics and illustration - and now new products. She understands my brain in a way that every business owner needs. She doesn’t work in beauty, so she brings a perspective that isn’t clouded by the industry and trends and comparing yourself to other artists. Then I bring the
technical perspective. I’m lucky to have a lot of talented friends who I love to work with. You can pay people any amount of money, but nobody is going to care about your business as much as the people who care about you. It makes creating something together seamless.”
Finding a distributor “Something I’ve really struggled with and come to appreciate is great communication, particularly in Australia where the supply chain can be complicated. I worked with one distributor who was very inconsistent. I was spending a lot of money with the brand and the distributor would never give me updates. At one point, they told me last minute that they had a shortage on the extensions I used. I ended up needing to make a bulk shipment from the US, and I was lucky to have savings from my salaried positions to do this. But for many business owners that’s just not possible. Now I work with Gellyfit and am an ambassador, I have a great relationship with the current distributor, Cathy. I love working with them because they are constantly bringing out new products. Being with a brand that is on top of trends is huge for me. I can’t be with a brand that isn’t going to have jelly colours or reflective glitters - clients will see it online and they don’t care if it’s a product from the US, Europe or Asia they want it straight away!”
The future “At the moment I’m still figuring out what my vision for Mannequin Hands is - is it a 12-person salon, a product line or a beauty-marketing platform? Whatever it is, I know I want to help people feel good with my work!” n
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
59
MARKETING
UNDER THE influence Influencers have been big news in the retail landscape for some time, but a new breed of influence is entering the cosmeceutical and beauty therapy arena. Ruby Feneley talks to the businesses and social media superstars making waves in this space and explores how you can make the most of your online partnerships. THE FIRST INFLUENCER I followed was Chloe Morello, a North Coast teenager who shared her dabblings in makeup, along with detailed reviews and recommendations, on Youtube. Chloe was a year older than me, working her first hospitality jobs out of high school and blowing all her money on makeup. We shared what I would now refer to as a “bemused but enthused” approach to beauty and I couldn’t get enough of her videos. But over time Chloe’s life changed – her videos got slicker, she posted from press trips rather than her bedroom and her tutorials seemed carefully constructed to showcase her sponsors’ products to their best advantage. While I didn’t grudge her success, the magic was broken, and I wasn’t the only person tuning out.
A MEASURE OF INFLUENCE: Influencer marketing had its worst year on record in 2018. The New York Times exposed the prevalence of influencer buying followers and dramatically undermining advertiser trust. The same year The Atlantic reported that hotels at popular holiday destinations had banned influencers, sick of sifting through thousands of requests for free accommodation from social media enthusiasts with minimal clout (any Sydney salon owner can attest to this frustration). The influencer market hit rock bottom when Unilever CEO Keith Weed announced a hold on influencer budgets citing lack of ROI (return on investment) and concerns around brand safety in an unregulated advertising market. He did not mince words, calling it a “shadow tool” that required urgent redress. Budgets for influencer marketing shrank, particularly for “macro” influencers (those with 150-500k subscribers) and were hit again in 2020 during lockdowns. But all is not lost. In 2021, with ad-spend bouncing back, marketers are looking to engage with a new kind of content creator: one with a qualified audience, who can demonstrate genuine engagement. This is where a new breed of influencer is flourishing – micro-“skinfluencers” specialising in dermal education and building tight-knit, skincare-obsessed communities online. They’re more likely to be found discussing product formulations and molecular chemistry than spruiking the latest cosmetic sale and they’re providing new opportunities for the professional beauty industry online.
60
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
MEET THE SKINFLUENCERS: Hannah English: The sunsafe pharmaceutical guru Hannah English is a rising Melbourne-based “Skinfluencer,” an ex-pharmaceutical scientist with 50.7k followers on Instagram. That may sound like a lot compared to your mum’s 140, but when viewed against Chloe Morello’s 1.2million; Hannah is considered a micro-influencer. However, there’s nothing micro about the people she’s influencing - a quick scroll through English’s followers shows half of Sydney and Melbourne beauty press and PRs, top brands, and an engaged community of skincare junkies who hang out for her Q&A’s where she talks about everything from mental health to cosmetic chemistry. Hannah considers herself as much an educator as an influencer, breaking down the science behind skincare and busting prevalent myths. English has gone viral multiple times with her work in the murky area of sun care – where consumer distaste and distrust is prevalent, and misinformation is high. Two of her viral pieces of content include a video where she applies the correct amount of SPF 50+ foundation needed to receive full sun protection (good luck blending blush over the top) and a hack video where she demonstrates how to effectively touch up sunscreen over makeup. Hannah attributes the popularity of this kind of content to the increased maturity of the millennial consumer – “Millennials grew up in the early stages of social media” she says “but now we have careers and kids and we’re starting to see changes in our skin. As those biological realities set in, we’re naturally looking for the most effective ways to combat them.” Hannah has worked with cosmeceutical companies and beauty service providers – reviewing her experiences with everything from Fraxel laser to teeth whitening. She says her approach to reviewing services, and businesses, differs from product reviews in a number of ways. She says, “Not all practitioners approach services the same way, so you can have the same treatment at two businesses and receive vastly different results, and a very different experience.” For Hannah, the focus is one reviewing the overall experience with the business - “I will cover how my skin tolerates the treatment, and the changes I see, but I’ll also get into how I felt in the space, how I was treated and the level and quality of information I was provided with.”
Iain Jeffrey: The criminologist cracking the case on consumers Iain Jeffrey’s is another skinfluencer providing a different kind of
resource to brands. Iain worked for leading Australian retailer Mecca while completing a Ph.D. in criminology. They now support their study with influencer work that encompasses content creation and consulting. With close to 6k followers Iain is a micro-influencer who works with platforms like Adore Beauty BeautyIQ, Mecca Memo, and Mamamia Beauty Collective trialing products and writing thoughtful reviews. However, with a striking photographic style, they also create visual content and assets for brands, along with applying their extensive retail background to helping businesses work on consumer and staff education programs. They believe that with audiences better educated than ever, influencers need to up their game: “it’s no longer enough to point out the difference between hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate – they can google that! There is an expectation of hyper-education from anyone claiming to be an ‘expert.’” And while a background in criminology might be unusual for a beauty expert, Iain believes insights into criminal minds have helped them understand consumer motivation and behavior - “at the end of the day, it’s just about what makes people tick.”
Michelle Wong: The educator who parlayed supramolecular chemistry into macro-influence Michelle Wong is a specialist skinfluencer who has broken out of the micro-category. Wong completed her Ph.D. in Supramolecular Chemistry, before becoming Head of Chemistry at Matrix Education. Her blog Lab Muffin Beauty Science started as a hobby but has now turned into an education platform that spans Tik Tok, Youtube, and Instagram where she has close to 300k followers. It’s recently become her full time job. While English and Jeffreys dabble in cosmetics, Wong’s account deals almost exclusively with skincare and audience education. Wong feels that while specialists and micro-influencers have thrived in an authenticity-driven social media environment, consumer interest in the science behind skincare has been accelerated by retail disruptor brands, who have brought science to the shop-floor. She says, “While we’ve had the infodemic last year that taught people the value of information from qualified sources, you can’t discount the impact of brands like The Ordinary – who have normalised displaying percentages of chemical names, on budget-friendly, mass-distributed products.” Michelle’s audience is made up of the consumers who have taught themselves what these ingredients mean, but now want to understand how they work. Michelle’s gift is that she makes the science behind skincare accessible. The frustration for many cosmeceutical and professional-grade brands is that customers don’t understand that ingredients are only part of the equation, the formulation is 9/10ths of the law. Particularly when it comes to price point, this can be critical for customers to understand. Attending a Lab Muffin Online event for Skinceuticals I was struck by the ease
Next-Generation Plasma Delivery to Lift, Tighten & Shrink Excess Skin Plasma PenTM by Louise Walsh International is one of the most advanced non-invasive, nitrogen plasma devices on the market. German engineered and designed, Plasma Pen delivers next-generation plasma delivery, making it the number one solution for aesthetics and medical professionals worldwide.
1800 242 011 advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au
MARKETING
with which Wong demonstrated the efficacy of Skinceuticals’ patented, and much imitated, formulation. It took three minutes of Wong’s science class, in which she used water, iodine, and two Skinceuticals competitor products, to convincingly demonstrate what one thousand press releases could never hope to. Wong says the benefit for brands partnering with “skinfluencers” is obvious “Good social media educators and influencers are foremostly skilled cross-platform communicators, particularly with their unique audience. By partnering with brands and businesses can reach a subset of engaged potential customers, and know that the point of difference of their product and service is really clear.
THE RULES OF ENGAGEMENT: Given the power of these experts, it’s no surprise that beauty businesses and cosmeceutical formulators are getting on board. Chloe Machin, owner of I Am Beauty Body Studio believes connecting with influencers accelerated her business in its early stages. Chloe says, “My business model is relatively new to the wellness, body, and beauty space and as such, there’s a lot of client education we need to do, particularly around technology.” She says things kicked off when PR Jessy Marshall attended a session as a paying client. Marshall fell in love with the service and invited Chloe to host and facilitate a media launch for The Booty Co, where she connected with beauty editors and influencers. Since then she has worked with several influencers like journalist and model Carlie Sophia and MAFS star Cathy Evans. Chloe says that particularly for services that are complex, influencers can provide invaluable client-education. One influencer reviewed a particularly painful cellulite reduction treatment she had received over Instagram. While the review wasn’t rose tinted, she was able to explain in detail the causes of discomfort she experienced, namely the depth and concentration of her cellulite, and attest to the pay off. Chloe said that not only did she receive a high number of bookings for the treatment; the clients were well qualified and understood what to expect. Chloe says that consistent engagement with influencers takes the pressure off business owners when it comes to content creation - an essential but time-consuming element of small business, and that she has seen a direct conversion to bookings. However, she notes, “it’s important to have a business plan to back up your social media activity, “as with anything instant, traction from social can be short-lived, it doesn’t replace a need to carve out a firm and confident brand positioning, and focus on building a solid loyal client base – while nurturing new clients through branding & influencer collaborations.”
THE FUTURE OF “INFLUENCE”: It seems the skinfluencer trend is built to last with growing demand for expertise. Second to expertise however, a need for authenticity was mentioned by everybody I spoke to for this article - influencer or business owner. And it’s this desire for authenticity that is leading many brands towards user generated content.
CONSUMERS AS CONTENT CREATORS: Cosmeceutical cosmetics brand Colorscience have bypassed PR packages and “#sponsored” posts in favour of User
62
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Generated Content - content submitted by Colorscience customers via social media. Briana Richards, Social Media and Influencer Manager at Colorscience says that in a crowded social media landscape, it’s extremely difficult for brands to stand out. “We’ve found working with influencers has helped to humanise our brand,” she says. However, increasingly they have found that social media users are fatigued by the prevalence of #ad. This is where the Colorscience influencer platform has come into play, allowing customers already using the product to join the Colorscience community and have their content shared on the Colourscience platform. There are clear benefits for brands in shortcutting the “pay to play’’ dynamic (with even the #gifted raising eyebrows) and user-generated content is undeniably authentic - a kind of visual five-star review. It has the added benefit of creating dialogue and community amongst their existing customer base, who are excited to see their content shared on a large brand platform. The users don’t need to have large followings. Briana says, “for us, the term “influencer” is defined as anyone who has the power to affect the purchasing decisions of others based on their authority or expertise – it’s not necessarily a numbers game.” All things considered? Inside and out of the beauty industry, the numbers mean less than ever for advertisers. Indeed, research has consistently demonstrated that friends and family are four to five times more “influential” when it comes to purchasing decisions than celebrities or influencers (The Influencer Experience Report, Because). So keep an eye on your mum’s account, she could be the next big thing. n
THE FAST FIVE: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW • Channel: Instagram is the most effective channel for influencer marketing with over a billion users, 80% of whom follow business accounts. • Cost: MAFS star Martha Kalifatidis infamously claimed she makes more than the average Australian’s annual salary in a month. While she didn’t disclose a figure it’s estimated she charges around $3000 dollars for a sponsored snap. Wink models confirms this, quoting between $2-4k for posts by influencers with 150k+ followers, meanwhile, for micro-influencers prices range from $75-800. • Legal: Influencer marketing has been described as the “wild west” of advertising – but industry bodies are catching up. As of September 2020, the Audited Media Association of Australia established the Australian Influencer Marketing Council. The body requires advertising disclosures on all paid posts via hashtags like #sponsored and #ad. They also require disclosure for any contracted agreement whether it is a partnerships, ambassadorship or collaboration. Creators are encouraged to disclose when a product or service they are reviewing or featuring has been gifted. For more information visit the AMAA. • Your return: In 2019 marketers were receiving $6.50 for every $1.00 they invested on influencer marketing making it one of the most profitable online advertising channels.
ww
PI SERUM OUR PIGMENT INHIBITOR
ae erm w.d
“Our serums are full of actives. Their opaque, appearance confirms this. If a serum is clear it usually means there’s not much in it. Say no to expensive water.” Ethical. Active. Skincare.
4% ATP 4% B White 4% Rumex 4% Lemon Extract 4% Licorice Extract 4% Bearberry Extract 3% Chondrus Crispus Extract 2% Papaya Fruit Extract 2% Niacinamide 2% Vitamin C (MAP) 33% ACTIVE
rg ne
• • • • • • • • • •
.au om y.c RESULTS DISPLAYED: 30 DAYS / TWICE DAILY USE PI SERUM.
Black Label by P. 1300 799 709 www.dermaenergy.com.au E. energy@dermaenergy.com.au
SALON VIEW
THE FACE
of beauty When it comes to setting up the ideal salon space filled with innovative treatments, Founder of Face by SM, Sanja Maria reveals her journey on how she set out to develop a luxurious space for her clients. Congratulations on your wonderful Face by SM salon in Oxford Street, Paddington – how did you choose the location? “Thank You, it’s certainly been a fulfilling and quite a sureal journey. Would you believe my first job when I started in the Beauty Industry was at a clinic on Oxford Street so it feels like I have come full circle. It was a fantastic location where I knew I would be able to service many of my longtime clients and I do feel as though there is a new vibrant energy coming through Sydney’s original high street again.”
What was the salon vibe you were going for? “When I was conceptualising Face by SM I knew that I wanted a space that was inviting and luxurious for everyone who visited. I wanted to steer well away from the traditional clinical look. The space has very special touches that incorporate floral tones, marble surfaces, soft metallic textures and crystal accents that make it quite a decadent and modern experience. Our clients often comment that there is this warm and welcoming energy as they walk in so I feel as though that we’ve got the balance right.”
64
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
What skincare brands do you stock? “We stock specialist cosmeceutical brands such as DMK, Mesoestetic, Dr Aspect and Medik8 to complement our medical grade salon treatments.”
It must be a business dream come true to have such a state of the art studio? Are there any lessons you have learnt along the way? “It certainly has been a dream of mine but even with my previous experiences it was still a huge period of learning and growth. I’m sure many business owners can relate to just trusting your instinct and taking the risk when you know it’s time to expand an existing business. My ultimate goal was to provide the best services and indeed have a state of the art space so for me one of my earliest priorities was to invest in the best. This was not necessarily specific to just sourcing the best equipment and products but also connecting with experts in different fields to build the space, ensuring we have the best team on board and really learn and grow through consultation and collaboration.”
What inspired you to expand your business from La Porte Space? “I felt that my business was at the point where it was ready to expand – it was now or never! My ultimate goal was to have a team as I particularly thrive in an environment built on teamwork. My space at La Porte was constricted and I was quite isolated working on my own. Our new space has multiple treatment rooms which allows myself and my team to not just focus on injectables but also offer a cohesive approach through customised skin treatments and complimentary services.”
Tell us about your background? “I feel as though I was drawn to the beauty industry from a young age – I lived and breathed it and was always happiest when I was working within the industry. I loved being able to help my clients look and feel their absolute best. I consider myself very passionate about the industry and even in my down time I really enjoy learning about new treatments and innovations – I believe that is what has kept me going in this industry – ensuring I keep my finger on the pulse and that I am constantly evolving and learning.”
Tell us what treatments are offered at the salon? “Whilst we offer a wide range of services and treatments our team really prides ourselves on an individualised approach where we take the time to understand
specific concerns and tailor a plan to achieve the clients aesthetic goals. Often, a particular treatment that a client has seen online may not be the best approach to see this so we essentially create a tailored skin journey. As part of an all-encompassing treatment plan we offer advanced injectables including PRP treatments and Mono Matrix Threads, medical grade peels, skin needling and rejuvenation, plasma pen, non-surgical skin tightening with Ultraformer and one of the latest additional is laser removal for stretch marks and scars.”
What is the most popular on the menu? “At the moment our Jawline Sculpting targeting the lower face, chin and neck has been very popular. Focusing on this area gives an instant rejuvenation giving the whole face an overall lift. This can be achieve with injectables, Ultraformer or a combination of both.”
Tell us about your latest technology? “As far as skin revitalisation goes, Mono Matrix Threads are certainly producing amazing results for our clients. This procedure is particularly effective for skin tightening in specific areas of the face. Mono Threads are inserted into the selected areas of the skin - ie. mid face, accordion lines, jawline, or under the chin to achieve maximum tightening effects. After entering the skin, the threads activate collagen synthesis for a gradual skin tightening and skin rejuvenation effect. We have also just introduced the only FDA laser approved device in Australia to treat stretch marks. This treatment is also suitable for scars including caesarian and surgical scars.”
You have said pigmentation is one of the biggest concerns for clients – how do you treat that? “I definitely think that our harsh Australian Sun does not do us any favors – I am a firm believer that prevention is better than cure so having a good SPF is a non-negotiable. While we can’t turn back the clock now that we know better – our clients have achieved great results through individual plans in our clinic incorporating individual and consistent treatments. There are a number of different causes of pigmentation – for example pigmentation caused by acne scarring or hormonal pigmentation such as Melasma. Our clinic treats accordingly to that and we incorporate treatments such as Clinical Skin Needling Programs, Deep Medical Peels (such as Cosmelan Peel) or IPL treatments.”
How important is it to offer clients a bespoke skincare plan to boost results? “Having a bespoke skincare plan is truly our ethos and what our clinic team stands for. We recognise that every face is different and there is not one specific approach to reach your skin goals. We pride ourselves in programing skin plans with a client-centric approach offering the relevant treatments as a step-by-step process through consultation and a committed skin journey.”
When it comes to devices in the salon – how important is it to have a machine that multi-tasks? “Salons are traditionally very space-poor so equipment real estate needs to be heavily considered and edited. I always revert back to the lesson of investing in the best as it is so important when machinery is involved. I invested heavily in our clinical equipment and there is plenty of research as the market is huge. We review what is on offer internationally and source equipment that can offer the best technology for our clients – multi tasking is a bonus but safety and effectiveness is paramount.”
WE ARE HONEST AND DILIGENT WITH OUR TREATMENTS AND ARE INVESTED IN OUR CLIENTS FROM START TO FINISH. THEIR SKIN JOURNEY IS OUR JOURNEY TOO.
How do you stand out from the competition? “I believe we stand out by what we stand for - minimal non-surgical treatments. We are client centric and have an honest relationship with our clients through detailed consultation. We are honest and diligent with our treatments and are invested in our clients from start to finish. Their skin journey is our journey too.”
What is your go-to treatment? “I am particularly fond of the Ultraformer treatment that we are proud to offer. It currently is Korea’s #1 Beauty Treatment – and as we know from the K-Beauty movement they definitely are in the frontline of all things beauty. Ultraformer is my baseline treatment for skin tightening and I find that it integrates will all other treatments we offer.”
How do you relax and unwind? “I am a mother of a very active and spirited toddler – the only hours I have to myself is from 5am to 7am, that’s my window! I love a long walk or fitting in a pilates/workout session but recently I have found that meditating really sets me up for a productive and focused day.”
Do you like trying out other salons? “By industry standards I consider myself as a veteran at 15 years – my close friends and mentors are still in the industry and I love visiting and supporting other salons. I love seeing individuals succeed and I definitely love to support the industry. How lucky are we that we get to catch up with one another during “work” and leave looking better – I can’t think of any other industry that can say the same!”
What is it you love most about the beauty industry? “I love that it is constantly innovating and evolving. There is always something new to learn and a way to update your own knowledge – its then a privilege to share this knowledge with your team and clients that put their trust in you. I am so grateful that I get to call this my career have had the opportunity to build a business that makes people look and feel their best.” n www.facebysm.com
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
65
Profile RAE MORRIS This Sydney based world renowned and award-winning makeup artist shares her love of beauty with Anita Quade. You have won so many awards what is one of your stand out moments? “I was inducted into two separate ‘Halls of Fame’ for the beauty industry in one weekend! One was the ABIA and the other was Beauty Expo. Most make-up artists are pretty lucky to make it into one Hall of Fame, so it was amazing to make it into two.”
You are one of the most influential makeup artists in the world – how does that feel? “It feels like you are talking about somebody else! I still have that slight uncomfortable feeling when I get referred to in that way. It also puts me into a very elite group of artists that have inspired me throughout my whole career.”
Tell us about your most cherished beauty memory? “I remember when I started to embrace my very pale white skin, as a baby makeup artist I was always made to spray tan any pale girls whenever they had to wear swimsuits or show lots of skin, so from an early age I was taught that pale skin is not ‘Pretty’ it wasn’t ‘inspirational’. It was seen as either Goth, Emo or just a little weird. So the day I stopped tanning my skin and really started to love my paleness was such a special moment for me.”
You have described yourself as a tomboy more so than a girly girl so how did you develop a passion for beauty? “I think now, reflecting back, I see myself as more androgynous. I never saw beauty in my early days as girly because I grew up in 80’s, an era when men wore as much make-up, sometimes even more makeup, than women. It was a time when punk, new romantic and even disco was everywhere. That’s where the passion and interest for me began, because it was always extreme . I find beauty in androgyny, and I also find beauty in the extremes – from masculine beauty to feminine beauty.”
You have done the makeup for some of the world’s most beautiful women including Naomi Campbell and Cate Blanchett – any memories you can share? “One of my favorite moments was when Kelly Rowland asked me for my autograph. Also sitting with Pink in her dressing room as she wrote the song “Sober” I would hear her bouncing lyric and sound ideas with her team, it’s a moment I’ll never forget! People always assume when I do celebrities it’s
66
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
exciting. When I do celebrities it’s when I am my most nervous. Surprisingly it’s not their celebrity status that makes me nervous. It is knowing that this face has had the top global artists do their make-up before me. It’s always a battle for me wondering “Will my best makeup be good enough?”… but it always works out well.”
You started out as a hairdresser and then fell into makeup in 1993 –Naomi Campbell crossed your path in your early career – tell us about that? “It an accidental ‘right place, right time’ moment. I always explain it as five seconds of her life that changed mine forever. I fell into makeup… well not literally, although I have done that too! I was born and raised in Brisbane, Australia, and actually started out as a hairdresser, running my own salon at 19 years of age, and it was through that profession that I found myself at the ‘Model of the World’ pageant in Istanbul in 1993. I was attending to a model’s hair whilst on the other side of the room, Naomi Campbell (one of the judges), was having her makeup done. Suddenly, there was a flurry of angry voices and her makeup artist headed for the door… in the stunned silence that followed, Naomi glared around the room and as fate would have it her gaze fell on me. ‘Fix my lips’ she said. I looked at her mouth, then at the lip gloss on the bench and with a wave of unwarranted confidence thought ‘how hard can it be?!’ I picked up the lip gloss and got to work, and as I did the door burst open and whole room erupted in a blaze of flashlights… the paparazzi had arrived. Next thing I knew, my picture was plastered all over the tabloids and my makeup career had officially begun.”
What is it that you are drawn to with a makeup palette? “I am still so passionate about makeup - not just the product and the art but what it can do for your confidence and in turn how your confidence
can literally change your life. My goal is to bring you completely into my world, for you to see the potential in you that I as a professional makeup artist do, and in doing so change not just the way you look, but also the way you feel everyday.”
Is there any Hollywood star that is a stand out at all for flawless skin? “I would say 99% of the women I work with have incredibly flawless skin. They dedicate so much of their life to health and wellbeing, and it shows. A personal stand out for me is Frida Pinto.”
What is your go to makeup look? “Incredible skin, minimal foundation, a monochromatic contoured eye, sculptured features, glossy lip and a hint of cheek. To me it is all about subtlety.”
Is there a beauty trend you never want to see make a comeback? “Yes, Metallic lips and the Instagram over baked, over-highlighted face. It wasn’t ever a trend in the fashion world, only ever in the Instagram world. It can look amazing on social media, but its just too heavy for real life.”
What do you think is the secret to your success? “Thinking every job is my last job. The amount of dedication I do put into the craft is massive - I didn’t come into this industry with a huge amount of natural talent. I did have to learn from incredible mentors. There has never been a moment in my entire career when I have thought “This makeup is perfect”, which may sound like I am being too hard on myself but to me it motivates me to get better and better with each face.”
Any advice you would give to other makeup artists starting out? “My best advice for other artists trying to make it in the fashion makeup industry is instead of worrying about how many followers you have on Instagram, just become the best makeup artist you can be. Just make women look like they are about to walk the red carpet at the academy awards, because that kind of makeup is what Vogue and all the A Grade celebs want. It will make you a superstar.
PROFILE
I FIND BEAUTY IN ANDROGYNY, AND I ALSO FIND BEAUTY IN THE EXTREMES – FROM MASCULINE BEAUTY TO FEMININE BEAUTY.
Another great piece of advice I love to give is that the best makeup artists know when to put the brush down!”
You have worked on so many overseas runways – are there any shows in particular that you loved? “There was not one show that didn’t live up to being an awe-inspiring moment in my makeup career. Every show I ever worked on, I knew I was part of fashion history in the making. These international shows are where trends are born whether it’s a makeup trend, a fabric trend or a shoe trend. Seeing it happen in real time is an extraordinary experience and I can’t put it into words.”
Was there anything missing in the makeup market that you thought was needed when you launched your line? “In the brush world, yes. That’s why I created my own brush line. Five years ago there was a lack of diversity in the colour world. We are not where we should be yet, but we are definitely making great progress. I made my own invisible mattifying powder to suit every single skin type.”
What was the reaction like? “The reaction was incredible. What blew me away the most was that the reaction was incredible from not only make-up artists, but also celebrities and models worldwide. It changed the way us as artists travelled with brushes. Being the world first magnetic range, it got more attention than I expected.”
Do you have plans to expand your range? “Yes, absolutely! I am actually currently in the process of designing an innovative and problem-solving makeup line like no other.”
How do you get inspired? “Everything inspires me. Surprisingly architecture is one of my biggest inspirations. My new addiction is going onto Instagram and looking at my favorite artists from photographers to fashion designers and look at who they follow. I find so many hidden gems this way, such as creators and artists that have little to no following, but are there purely for the craft. The rabbit hole that I go down gives me so much inspiration.”
Are there any can’t live without products you have in your bag? “Avene Cicalfate, my invisible mattifier and Mecca Cosmetica Lip-DeLuscious because it’s one of the very few lip balm that has sunscreen. I also love Dr Natasha Cook’s skincare line, I swear by it! I also love tubing mascaras because they don’t run or bleed out under the eyes. MAC Extended Play Mascara or Kevyn Aucoin Volume Mascara are some of my faves.”
What is one of the simplest makeup tips to boost appearance? “One of the simplest things that anyone can do to make you appear healthier, more radiant and more youthful is to even out the skin tone. By this I mean applying foundation or a tinted moisturizer. Most of these have skincare benefits such as antioxidants and sunscreens. This is also why I designed my #26 and #28 brushes. When you apply these with a brush, the application time halves. Then add a hint of blush, some mascara and a little lip-gloss and you will look more radiant than you would with full-on eyes, lips and no foundation.”
Do you think you will ever put down the brush? “Never.” n
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
67
Ask the
SKINFLUENCERS In 2021 there’s a choice for cosmeceutical brands: Should they keep their retail channels in-house, or partner with non-salon partners? We talked to leading cosmeceutical brands on the strategy behind the paths they’ve taken – and how these options are working for their salon partners.
REIKA ROBERTS & SIMONE VESCIO, co-Founders of dermaviduals have found success in sticking to the salononly model. “Education is at the core of all we do at dermaviduals & derma aesthetics. We never stop furthering our own knowledge and we love to share what we learn with our salon and clinic partners, encouraging them to always question what they see and hear in the marketplace. This ensures that they are informed and in turn, passionate clinicians. It’s for this reason our philosophy is to partner with clinics who want to learn and extend themselves and, in turn educate their clients, joining a vibrant community of engaged therapists. By arming our partner clinics and salons with in-depth skin and product knowledge, as opposed to teaching them simply “how to retail” we have continued to enrich our partnerships. We are very of the clinicians and salons who have joined our derma-family, and are particularly proud to see them thriving under our model of education over sales. Our partners also benefit from our not enabling online retail sales, it channels customers to their doors, ensuring all sales remain in clinic and the integrity of the range is not tarnished by potential poor experiences a client who has not had a thorough skin analysis and tailored skin prescription might have. Because dermaviduals is bespoke skincare with an advanced delivery system, therapists prescribing and customising dermaviduals products need to be highly educated to ensure its efficacy. This has been a considered decision - we needed to take into
68
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
account consumer buying behaviour and convenience, but also staying true to our values. Our focus on education is something we’re proud of, we’re intent on better serving the beauty industry by designing education that enhances postgraduate knowledge. Our focus on education has elevated countless clinicians’ careers after joining our Derma Family disillusioned with the industry after a lack of personal growth, baseless marketing hype or simple burn out. We are also passionate about serving our partners with unsurpassed business support, customer service and therapist rewards. Our Derma Family enjoys many touch points when it comes to extending their knowledge, including short training courses, interactive online training, Snap Classes, and we’re also launching our online Education Hub which will utilise personalised competency-based learning and will be available to therapists globally. Consumers become loyal when they experience the power of prescriptive skincare paired with the knowledge, and client services skills of their therapist. We believe there is nothing more powerful than the power of personal touch. Once a consumer understands their skin and its condition, they trust in their therapist and the treatment pathway recommended. We have found that even in this competitive market, consumers value a relationship with a knowledgeable therapist and bespoke products curated specifically for them and their skin that contributes positively to skin health.” n
SKINFLUENCERS
ROCHELLE LEHMANN, Brand Manager, Skinmart is a strong believer in the reach of e-commerce. “At Skinmart our team is dedicated and focused on results-driven skincare solutions for clients. For us, this means advice, education, treatments together with retail products that deliver results - whatever their skincare goals are. Our team of therapists invest the majority of their time in content creation together with one-on-one advice for our clients regardless if they live in Manly or Mandura as everyone wants the confidence of healthy-looking skin right? The team appreciates that by helping our customers find the right solution for their skincare goals, at any touchpoint, we earn the right to build on that relationship in the future. The right advice for our clients means that our therapists need the best training, education and support possible from our brand partners. As we only partner with a select number of brands this means we can see a direct result in product recommendations for the brands that invest the most in our team, as they have the confidence to prescribe. We’ve been working with clients all over Australia for 10+ years both online and in-clinic to find solutions to their skincare goals. Although last year with Covid-19 we certainly saw a spike in our online clients, online advice and expertise has always been integral to our goal of helping those that can’t make it to a treatment room. That satisfaction you have as a therapist in seeing real changes in your clients’ skin is just as strong online as it is in person. Online for us isn’t about opening webstore and selling what we have on our retail shelf. The same effort (if not more) that we put into our treatment rooms goes into helping our clients get solutions to their goals and not just simply products delivered to their front door.
We believe that the biggest opportunity to help Australians looking for skincare results is in upgrading them from supermarket products to prescribed cosmeceutical results-driven solutions from the likes of Medik8 and mesoestetic. Covid-19 has provided the perfect opportunity to accelerate science-driven self-care. We’ve been able to introduce hundreds of new-to-cosmeceuticals clients over this period with around 1 in 4 of our virtual consultations coming from someone not currently using active cosmeceuticals. Medik8 and mesoestetic both have some amazing hero products (like Hello Hydr8 B5 and Crystal Retinal) that make a great first impression by delivering immediate results. We are seeing conversion with the hundreds of new clients that have been introduced to our professional brand in a retail setting connecting with the brand in treatment centres and salons, which has been great to see. We have also loved watching our existing clients try different things, whether it is a sheet mask or at-home peels – we’ve definitely seen new best sellers as existing clients have upped their at-home self-care. The great news is that as lockdowns have eased, we are seeing these new habits continue as our clients appreciate the positive impact on their skin. To ensure clients get “the right” product for them, online consultations are part of our every day. our team complete hundreds of consultations every month so no client misses out on face-to-face advice. Covid-19 has helped all of us (and our clients) become comfortable and confident in using technologies such as Zoom - we still love being able to touch and feel the skin and where it’s possible we prefer in-salon consultations, but with a few more questions we’ve found a zoom call gets the job done just as well! n
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
69
Where beauty MEETS ART Finding the right ambience for your salon is crucial to success. Anita Quade chats to director and founder of Le Petit Saint Dr Joseph Hkeik about his interior inspiration and how he has blended his two greatest passions. Tell us what inspired the interiors in this avant-garde atelier? “My two great passions in life are beauty and art and I wanted to marry these together in the creation of Le Petit Saint. I am passionate about the Art Deco period which is the inspiration for the atelier’s interior style, with its clean lines and curves, touches of gold and opulence, as well as beautiful lighting and crystal glass features. Le Petit Saint has been described as “a little slice of Paris, in Double Bay” with strong design references taken from haute couture boutiques. It is not just a shop – it is a unique sanctuary, designed to help you escape the hectic pace of the outside world, enveloping you in a realm of style, luxury and beauty.”
How did you choose the location? “With All Saint Clinic right across the road in Double Bay, I wanted Le Petit Saint to be a natural extension of my clients’ skincare journey. After a visit to All Saint Clinic, or in between their treatments, clients pop into Le Petit Saint to stock up on all their skincare essentials and to enjoy an express facial. Double Bay is also a vibrant community and, with our prominent corner location, we attract many new people through our doors who are new to the All Saints family altogether.”
You opened your doors in December 2020 how did the concept come about? “As you may know, I grew up in Lebanon and my sisters used to take me along to the beauty salon with them. I always found this such an interesting, fun and memorable experience – a time when the whole community comes together to discuss beauty, health and life in general! I really wanted to bring this spirit into the concept for Le Petit Saint and be able to offer the best in skincare expertise and products to a wider audience. Some of our customers already know us through All Saint Clinic, but we also attract a wider audience
70
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
of people who are passionate about skincare and thirsty for knowledge about the best products that really deliver results.”
You have called the opening of the salon a revolution for Australian skincare and retail – tell us about that? “Le Petit Saint is a community-focused space dedicated to beauty and well-being. I have created quite a special environment where our customers love to visit and escape the reality of daily life, whilst also discovering something new and effective for their skin every time they visit. We have a sought-after line up of beauty brands that are not widely available (and some are in fact exclusive to us). Our unique offering combines my personal picks of the best in beauty brands, along with a wonderful treatment room where clients can drop by for a 30-minute skincare boost.”
Tell us about the brands you stock? “I have carefully curated an edit of beauty and wellness products from global cosmeceutical leaders – offering our customers effective solutions to enhance their natural beauty. I am passionate about brands that are backed by science and guaranteed to give my customers the results that they are after. I am very selective about the brands we stock and many are not
INTERIORS
furnishings and a super-comfortable bed, where our clients can enjoy 30 minutes of relaxation and leave feeling radiant and rejuvenated.”
How often do you think salon owners should update their look?
widely available. Some of our popular brands include: Augustinus Bader, Aspect Skin, Healthy Chef, iS Clinical, Oxygenetix, Skin Better Science, SkinCeuticals and Universkin.”
Where did you find the pieces for the salon look? “With my artistic background and a passion for the Art Deco period, I wanted to bring that to life in Le Petit Saint and also ensure a feeling of serenity and luxury for our customers. I worked closely with architect and interior designer Blainey North to create every element of the interior and sourced all the furnishings through her fantastic team at The Blainey North Collection. Our elegantly crafted furniture is a tribute to luxury Parisian couture houses, with shelves fashioned from leather and lacquer and armchairs adorned with elegant boucle.”
How is it different from your other location? “At Le Petit Saint we offer express services in our treatment room. These are designed as quick boosts to your beauty regime and, with no downtime, our clients are event-ready when they leave. The express services are quite different to our offering at All Saint Clinic, where our clients enjoy more in-depth treatments from our expert team of dermal therapists and doctors. The express services at Le Petit Saint are tailored to be a welcome supplement to our clients’ schedule and can be booked online or by calling our team.”
How would you describe the salon vibe? “It is a peaceful and luxurious haven, where people can escape everyday life and feel indulged and pampered, with expert advice and efficacious products to help them on their skin journey.”
What do you take into consideration when considering interiors? “I wanted to instill a real feeling of community at Le Petit Saint – making it a place where people can come together, chat in a relaxed environment and discover exciting new things that will help their skin. We have an Elixir Bar where clients like to sit and enjoy an ingestible beauty fix by The Healthy Chef or Truth Origins, whilst chatting to our team of Little Saints. There is a comfortable seating area and two beautiful vanity tables, where our team will touch up make-up after a treatment.”
Can you easily update the look? “We regularly add striking touches to the interior with striking florals by Grandiflora and bespoke product displays. The magnificent windows were designed so that the artwork and displays by Blainey North can be refreshed periodically.”
What is the vibe of the treatment rooms? “We have one lovely treatment room at Le Petit Saint, with luxurious
“I personally believe that if you have created a beautiful and inspiring canvas in the design of your salon, then small touches can elevate and change the look, without having to go to make any radical updates. Another success factor is ensuring that your space is versatile, which is why we ensured our furniture can be moved around if need be – for example if we are hosting an event.”
What is your favourite purchase for Le Petit Saint? “Our Elixir Bar – it really embodies the community spirit at the heart of Le Petit Saint and I love nothing more than gathering at the bar, enjoying a healthy infusion and chatting with some of our regular clients about beauty and life.”
How important is it do have a cohesive interior design? “A cohesive and well-thought-out design is essential. I believe it is important to spend time thinking through the functionality of your space and how best you can utilise it, before embarking on any design. There is no point in creating something beautiful if it doesn’t function effectively for you as a business. I am also a firm believer in spending money on important things – such as a great interior designer and high-quality furnishings – as these are expenses that you won’t regret and stand the test of time.”
Blainey North is behind the design of the interiors – is it important to invest in an interior designer for a salon makeover? “Blainey and I have a real synergy in our style and vision, which I believe is essential when partnering with an interior designer. If you want to create a space that is distinctive and unique, the services of a well-regarded interior designer really are beneficial. I myself often have the vision but translating that into reality certainly needs the helping hand of an interiors expert. Blainey also has training as an architect, so her ability to really conceive the potential of a space is really quite exceptional.”
Are there any plans to open expand the Le Petit Saint concept? “We have been open for less than six months, so are still very focused on our Double Bay space, but further down the track we might well be open to expand – even internationally one day. Watch this space!” n
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
71
SALON PROFILE
When time is
OF THE ESSENCE Want an uber-efficient medi-facial? Ruby Feneley discovers the perfect skincare fix at Victoria Fox of Miss Fox Melbourne and reveals how to keep pace with the modern beauty consumer.
S
ince opening in 2011 Victoria Fox’s MISS FOX salon has become a Melbourne institution, garnering accolades like World’s Best Beauty Salon and appearing in countless national and international beauty titles. But founder Victoria Fox says she doesn’t consider herself a beauty expert, rather, she prefers to call herself “an expert consumer.” This expertise she believes has enabled her business to flourish, and a consumer perspective guides her decision making a decade on. Inspiration for MISS FOX came from Victoria’s experience as a client.,when a small cosmetic procedure went wrong, leaving her permanently injured. It struck Victoria that as a long time salon client, many of her experiences had fallen short when it came to the magic combination of luxury, safety and customer care. She spotted a MISS FOX sized gap in the market. Since then, her salon has become known for its whole day immersive experiences and head-to-toe beauty services. Now, in a change of pace, MISS FOX has branched into “to-go” services via their Instant Skin Bar. The notion of a facial “to-go” might seem counter to the MISS FOX maximalist ethos, but Victoria says it is completely in-line with her consumer-first approach to luxury. She explains“as a society we’re entering a period of wanting things fast, now and without too much effort” and that “in 2021, life is busier and more complicated than ever.” Instant Skin Bar is the solution for
72
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
clientele who want blockbuster results, but find themselves somewhat time-poor. The menu consists of three treatments, all of which can be performed without a full skin analysis. The client selects based on their key concern: dehydration, decongestion or (anti) ageing. The treatments are all performed in under an hour with zero down time and zero need to remove work wear. Fox’s assessment of the consumer mindset is spot on. Post-pandemic, clients are busier than ever, and a year of fending for themselves, with online shopping and home delivery has shaped a self-sufficient customer. This individual places a high value on in person experiences, but requires them to fit with their lifestyle. And less time means abridged self-care excursions. They are more likely to be intrigued by a facial that can be served up on their lunch-break and give results that will carry them through to afterwork drinks.
The Instant Skin Bar experience: I went method as the prototypical time-poor Instant Skin Bar client. I arrived for the Medi Skin (anti-ageing) facial somewhat worse for wear. Having risen at 3am for a red-eye Sydney to Melbourne flight I had spent my day in South
Yarra bouncing between meetings and chugging coffees to earn my wifi rights at local cafes. I was popping into MISS FOX right before dinner with friends I hadn’t seen in over a year thanks to the 2020 lockdowns and wanted to look like I’d slept in the last twelve months. My first thought was that entering MISS FOX is like being transported to the most glamorous fashion week backstage (the Instagram backstage, not the reality) replete with velvet lounges, Hollywood makeup stations and a bustling blow-dry-bar. I was reminded that in heavily saturated industries like ours, the aesthetics of space can be as big a contributing factor to an experience at the service itself. The atmosphere at MISS FOX is luxurious and tranquil – the perfect antidote to frayed nerves. This is Victoria’s aim of course – to deliver “instant” treatments without the “rush-rush” environment of your typical shopping strip beauty bar. Bree Willis, the senior therapist who designed the Instant Skin Bar treatments says the Medi Facial combines two of her favourite therapy modalities: the LED Lightstim and the Venus Legacy. She says “The LED simulates your skin cells, while the Venus stimulates collagen and elastin with radiofrequency, so they work synergistically.” She said all five treatments on the menu were designed to be delivered quickly with long lasting results, targeting the most common concerns Miss Fox clients present with: ageing skin, dehydration, pigmentation, fluid retention, dullness and redness. Because of their instant results the treatments have become particularly popular before special events or media appearances. Medi Facial has been thoughtfully tailored to meet the needs of a beauty population in which inflammatory skincare conditions like rosacea, acne and dermatitis are on the rise (British Journal of Dermatology, 2021). Radiofrequency and LED are effective and gentle treatments, suitable for a range of skin types. Victoria Fox said that she herself had sensitive skin and was keen for the salon to range products that were suitable for all, which informed her choice to range Osmosis skincare - a a natural cosmeceutical brand focused on calming inflammation. There is growing awareness amongst consumers of the impacts of inflammation on their health and skin. Slowly, there has been a drift away from the harsh scrubs and high percentage chemical exfoliants of the mid-naughts, a trend MISS FOX has kept step
with. Virginia my therapist summarises the philosophy neatly: “it doesn’t make sense to create inflammation to treat inflammation.” So, what do we do instead? The Venus Legacy is the workhorse of the Medi-Facial, using algorithm driven volumetric heating technology to stimulate fibroblasts at multiple tissue depths along with the release of growth factor F2F, for long-term anti-ageing results. Immediately noticeable? A radiant complexion spurred by gentle stimulation of somnolent blood vessels, along with chiseled cheekbones as the process of lymphatic drainage takes place. Results are so “instant” that when I pop downstairs post-treatment to touch up my face pre-dinner I actually ditch foundation. I look so well rested that were I heading back to the office colleague might think I’d been napping on my lunch break. The treatment delivers on all promises, I’m in an out in under an hour and when I meet friends for dinner there are no telltale signs of I’ve had a facial (slick skin, extraction marks, rumpled coiffeur… the list goes on). My time at MISS FOX was short, sweet and the perfect circuit breaker to a busy day. Undoubtedly that’s exactly what Instant Skin Bar’s busy CBD client base will be hoping for.
The industries future: Victoria believes it’s more important than ever for beauty service providers to continue to evolve their offerings. She says, “I find that innovation often springs from the most chaotic and painful situations – 12 years ago I suffered a minor injury, while that was a painful time, it propelled me to become a best-in-class service provider.” She continues “In all my years spending time with other entrepreneurs, I find that innovation often happen this way. I have seen the pandemic breed some pretty amazing innovations and while it’s not necessary to be in crisis to innovate, a crisis often allows space for innovation to arise.” n
THE POST-PANDEMIC CONSUMER It seems the post-pandemic consumer has less time than ever. In 2020 staffing firm Robert Half found that, contrary to expectations, the shift to remote work had seen 70% of professionals working over eight hours a day, and working weekends. The trend has continued in 2021. The Guardian newspaper found that workers across the US and UK were logging into remote working platforms for up to 11 hours a day.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
73
WELLNESS
d e l l a c s ’ t I glowing up..…
Meet the ingestibles: collagen, omegas and tasty tisanes! These grown-up treats will support your clients’ immunity and microbiome, and maximise their salon results from home. Trust us, they’ll thank you for the suggestion. Photography: Brandee Meier Concept and styling: Ruby Feneley
Advanced Nutrition, Skin Omegas +, Margifox Distributors, 1300 850 008 Vida Glow, Natural Marine Collagen in Peach, vidaglow.com ANC Marine Collagen Plus, Minerals Citrus and Lime Flavour, Australian Natural Care, 1300 365 020 Maison Balzac, J’ai Soif Glass Carafe in Teal, maisonbalzac.com Digest Organic Loose Leaf Tea, Florabiome By Chiza Westcarr, 0435 928 030
74
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
ww
THE FUTURE OF COSMECEUTICALS IS HERE
m co st. ali rm
de w. An Australian company at the cutting-edge of the cosmeceutical industry, Dermalist products deliver superior clinical-grade results without the downtime.
What’s more, our range is clean, vegan, cruelty free and eco-friendly with recyclable packaging and refill options making it the first choice for today’s conscious clients.
Our advanced, multi-functional formulations have been specifically designed to address skin concerns globally whilst reducing the time, complexity and number of products required to achieve & maintain beautiful skin.
What our Clinical Partners say .... “For my cosmetic practice, I was looking for a highly effective and simple yet comprehensive product range that could be applied in fewer steps and with Dermalist my patient’s skin is smoother, finer and healthier - I’m most pleased’’
With a powerful, efficient, simple-to-use system, client compliance and satisfaction is increased, skin quality is maintained between clinical visits and overall skin health is optimised for future-proofed beauty.
Dr Geoff Brice MBBS FRACGP FRNZCGP Main Street Cosmetic & Skin
For information on how you can join us as a clinical partner, please contact us at info@dermalist.com or dermalist.com.
FEATURE WELLNESS
Drink to
YOUR HEALTH THE PRODUCTS:
Ingestibles are winning rave reviews and are available in the form of vitamins and teas to elixirs. Anita Quade chats to Chiza Westcarr, Nutritional Medicine Practitioner and Skin Expert about her new range Florabiome. Congratulations on your new launch, tell us about the Florabiome range… “It’s a range of products formulated to support gut, mind and skin health.”
Ingestibles are huge news in the beauty industry, why did you create the products? “I recognised a gap in the market, by incorporating an inside-out approach. In my work both as a Nutritional Medicine Practitioner and Dermal Clinician, I’ve been able to successfully help many of my clients improve their skin, gut and mental health. My goal is to help fellow practitioners achieve success also.”
Share with us your background in the nutritional sphere… “I qualified as a skin therapist in 1996 and have taught in the skincare industry since 2000. Upon the completion of my Bachelors’ Degree in Clinical Dermal Therapies, while teaching in the Medical Aesthetics arena, I realised that active skincare and in-clinic modalities were not enough to address inflammatory skin conditions. I then embarked on a Masters’ Degree in Human Nutrition, a Health Coaching Diploma and an Advanced Diploma in Nutritional Medicine. It was then that the link between nutrition and optimal skin health, and how this might be enhanced became apparent to me.”
Tell us about the ingredients in the range… “Florabiome is made up of products that focus on modulating stress, supporting gut health and improving skin health. Few ingestible ranges are designed exclusively for skin specialists, so having a skin expert at the helm offers a unique perspective, and a complete understanding of what is needed.” n
76
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Calm, a wild-fermented, berry-flavoured elixir, containing prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics, with adaptogenic herbs and antioxidants. It may assist with stress modulation, and was created to allow the daily consumption of alcoholic beverages to be easily replaced. It also makes water consumption more interesting for those struggling to meet their daily water requirement. Calm, with its great taste and burgundy colour, makes drinking less alcohol pretty easy. In no time, symptoms start to lessen, and wellbeing is restored, as the ‘fight or flight’ response is replaced by the ‘rest and digest’ response. Some key ingredients: Lactobacillus spp, Bifidobacterium spp and Sacharomyces ssp (starter strains), goji berries, elderberry, ashwagandha, rhodiola, passionflower and lemon balm. Chiza’s tip: Added to chilled, sparkling water and served in a champagne flute or nice glass. Digest, is an organic, caffeine-free herbal tea blend, or tisane, featuring a precise combination of bilberries, hibiscus, dandelion, linden and licorice. It may aid digestion, and may calm the nervous system. Chiza’s tip: This deep burgundy beverage may be served hot or cold with chopped up colourful fruit and ice, served in a beautiful carafe. The range will be stocked in selected beauty salons and available online.
For details checkout: info@flora-biome.com
GET THE LOOK
/COMFORTELFURNITURE/BOARDS
au m. .co tel or mf co w.
SP / IN IRATI
N O
LON SPA SA C
ww ES
REFINEDBoho YOUR SALON DESIGN STYLE
a neutral, laid-back style that’s earthen luxury. THE PALETTE
1
3
2
2
4
GET THE LOOK FROM COMFORTEL 1. INGA Beauty Trolley 2. WHISTLER BLUSH Reclining Salon Chair 3.SADDLE STOOL TAN II 4. MASSAGE TABLE BLUSH
BEAUTY DIARY
TALKING BEAUTY CHASING THE
luxury consumer Time and tech: Following eighteen months of scarcity, playing hard to get is not alluring to consumers. In this issue, speed of services and procurement came up in my conversations with Victoria Fox of MISS FOX, Melbourne, and Victoria Houllis of Mannequin Hands Sydney. From facials to nails, clients want services and trends available to them instantly - and lockdowns, international border closures, and disrupted supply chains are no longer acceptable excuses. This sense of urgency has seen professional beauty brands jump from behind the counter to online abroad. Beauty Matter reported that over 40 European and American professional-grade skincare brands launched into China via TMall Global last year. In 2021, the consumer is the distribution channel, and it doesn’t make sense not to be where they are. Increasingly, that’s online. But what does this mean for service providers? Isn’t this advice counterintuitive and un-actionable for an in-person industry? Not really! Beauty service providers need to ensure their online experience is as seamless as their in-salon. Especially when it comes to bookings. Google reported that 52% of beauty services are booked outside of business hours - before 6 am and after 10 pm, and 20% are made “last minute” (48 hours before the service). If your online booking system isn’t optimised you risk not capturing these last-minute clients. Another note is that 58.8% of clients would only book if full treatment details are available on the website and many were turned off by websites that displayed low-resolution imagery or weren’t optimised for mobile. So get cracking on that website re-design you’ve been talking about! Value, wellbeing, and the ‘Conscious Consumer’: Yes, the 2021 consumer is more cash conscious than the 2019 consumer; however, they are placing a higher value on the services our industry provides. According to Mintel, consumers are more interested in health and wellbeing than ever, unsurprising following a health crisis that impacted the mental and physical wellbeing of billions of people. However, the perception of health has expanded. Clients are now interested in bespoke and holistic treatments and they are more likely to believe “self-care” is critical to wellbeing. They also value experiences and lasting memories rather than big-ticket items. When justifying the cost of your service, either to yourself or to a client, it’s a good idea to pay attention to the components of your service that create a truly unique experience. These generally reside in the little details - from the perfect bedding to the beverages on offer, and the investment you’ve placed into training your staff. Furthermore, clients are willing to pay for services that are aligned with their values. As touched upon in PB Radar and our interview with Paul Frasca of
78
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Sustainable Salons, the emerging ‘conscious consumer’ is willing to pay more to support local small businesses in their area, particularly if they believe are giving back to the community by employing locals, implementing sound environmental practices, and/or facilitating community events. Values and social justice: 2021 was a tumultuous year politically and socially, understandably, this has translated to a more socially and politically aware consumer who prioritises spending with businesses they feel reflect their values and are willing to hold those falling short to account. Pay close attention to how you interact with clients - keeping accountability and transparency as key goals. Also, consider whether the services you’re providing are suitable for a diverse client base. Are your staff as confident treating pigmentation in South Asian skin types as they are with Caucasian? Do they understand how different cultural backgrounds might inform an individual’s comfort in a salon? As a leader it is important to be confident having these conversations with staff. After all, as beauty practitioners we’re in the business of making people feel good - if we are not doing this, we are not doing our jobs. In a social media environment, negative experiences are amplified to represent the totality of your brand or business. Having ongoing conversations with your staff will seem more worthwhile when viewed in the context of permanent reputational damage that can occur online. QUESTIONS TO ASK... 1. D o I prioritise diversity in salon recruitment? One of the easiest ways to ensure your salon is a safe space for everyone is to ensure there is a broad range of professionals working there. 2. Does my social media and marketing collateral represent the diversity of my customer base? 3. Are my treatment menus available in languages other than English? 4. Is my salon ramp accessible? 5. Is my salon gender-neutral? While you don’t need to close shop to re-engineer your business from scratch, by slowly implementing some of these practices you can be assured you’re contributing to a salon industry we can all be proud of. Until next time beauties! X. Ruby
MADE IN AUSTRALIA FOR AUSTRALIAN CONDITIONS
• SPF 50+ broad spectrum for very high UV protection • Velvet finish – non greasy • Skin friendly formulation for all skin types ww ea ah
ea ah
ol an /m
ol an /m
.com
.com
ok
m ra
bo ce
w.fa
stag w.in
ww /
/
lth
lth
manolahealth
Four reasons to take deposits Deciding whether or not to collect deposits can be tricky, especially if you’ve never asked for these before. However there are a number of reasons why making this mandatory is good for business, so check out our top four! By Isabella Castle. 1. Reduce cancellations and no-show appointments Kitomba data tells us that on average 10% of appointments are cancelled or result in a no-show. Cancellations are the most common, making up 90% of these ‘bad’ appointments. Because ‘bad’ appointments result in lost revenue, anything that makes your clients more committed to their appointments is a good thing. Encouraging clients to cancel their appointments earlier also gives you more time to fill the gaps in your appointment book. When clients pay a booking deposit, they’re more likely to follow through with the appointment because they have a financial incentive to do so.
80
|
for online bookings This is costing your business money every time it happens. Clients who pay a deposit are not only less likely to cancel or not show up, they’re also providing you with a financial safety net for if they do.
3. Cover costs in advance If your services require the purchase of supplies or tools in advance, having a full or partial payment in advance means you don’t have to fund those purchases from your own pocket.
4. Customise deposit amounts to suit your business Most salon and spa software providers should allow you to customise your deposit settings for different services and packages. For example, for higher cost packages and services you may want to charge a larger deposit, even up to 100% of the appointment value, to cover the cost of supplies and staff time if the client doesn’t show up. Whereas for lower cost services, the risk is also lower, so you may choose to charge a small deposit or no deposit at all. Make sure to also check out your cancellation policy regularly to see if it needs updating, and make it clear how much notice a client needs to provide to cancel without forfeiting their deposit.
2. Don’t miss out on potential revenue
How to start taking deposits
Last minute cancellations or no-shows lead to gaps in your appointment book and staff you need to pay even though they’re not servicing clients.
It’s a good idea to communicate to your current clients that you’ll be adding deposits to your online bookings before you start so that it’s not a surprise when they book their next appointment. Display your cancellation
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
BUSINESS
policy clearly on your Online Booking site so any new clients know how deposits work if they do need to cancel their appointment. Your regular, loyal clients won’t mind paying a deposit, because they’ll understand that it helps your business. But if you’re worried that asking for deposits may deter new clients from booking, remember that clients who are afraid to pay a deposit may be those who tend to cancel or forget about their appointments, and they may not be the kind of clients you want anyway.
Why not give it a try? We’ve heard from lots of businesses that taking deposits has drastically reduced their no-show and cancelled appointments, so why not see if it can do the same for your business! Experiment by taking online booking deposits for a few of your popular services and keep and eye on what works well for your business. If your no-show and cancelled appointments decrease, then you know you’re on the right track. n
Isabella Castle is a Marketer at Kitomba Salon and Spa Software. To learn more about how Kitomba can help you secure future income, visit www.kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.
info@lycon.com.au www.lycon.com.au
PROFILE
Hailed as one of the top five facialists in the world, Australian-based salon owner and founder of Medi SkinSaver Marionne de Candia chats to Anita Quade about how she developed her range and why she is the go-to for A-listers including Kate Hudson and Elle MacPherson. FOR 30 YEARS you have tended to the skin of celebrities including Elle Macpherson – now you have launched your own line Medi SkinSaver what were some of the major concerns that you wanted to address with your products? “Over my many years working with clients, there have been three recurring themes. People are: time poor, often overwhelmed by the complexity within the beauty product space, and are looking for clean, quality products that they can afford to continue with long term. My response has been to create pure, simple to use products that deliver results at a price accessible to all.”
What is the secret to glowing skin? “There are many lifestyle-oriented factors involved here but in terms of skincare, actives are essential for radiantly healthy skin. I can tell immediately if someone is using actives. They simply work. The two I prioritise in Medi SkinSaver are Vitamin B3 and Vitamin A.”
Are there any quick cheats to fabulous skin? “Better to live a wholesome lifestyle that doesn’t leave you resorting to last minute skin fixes. That said, a masque with a combination of: hyaluronic acid, Vitamin B3 and peptides is an intensive, short term option to consider.”
Is there any celebrity that stands out for amazing skin? “Kate Hudson has lovely skin. She has
82
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
MARIONNE DE CANDIA such a sunny, radiant personality that I suppose spills over to her skin as well.”
What is the one product that you can’t live without? “If I could only use one product, it would be the Vitamin B3 serum. Vitamin B3 in the form of niacinamide is such an all-rounder. Since B3 directly fuels the energy pathways of your skin cells, it helps optimise every aspect of skin function. A cell supplied with abundant energy naturally enters a state of maximum vitality.”
Tell us how you developed the range? “Medi SkinSaver actually began with a request from leading Gold Coast Plastic and Reconstructive surgeon Dr Luke Stradwick (whom I work alongside performing surgery aftercare) for a topical form of Vitamin B3 to assist the many serious skin cancer patients he treats. Vitamin B3 taken orally in doses sufficient to help these patients carries an associated risk of unwanted side effects. Topical B3, however, delivers the vitamin directly to the cells that need it most. As such, therapeutic doses are much more readily tolerated. As someone with a long history in product formulation, this piqued my interest and the range developed from there.”
What inspired you? “Sydney University’s Professor Diona Damian has performed some fantastic research on the impact of Vitamin B3 in the form of niacinamide (somewhat confusingly, also known as nicotinamide) on overall skin health. I originally came across a paper she co-authored for the Skin Cancer Council. I was absolutely inspired by the promising results of her Vitamin B3 trials. In fact, when I first came across them I knew instantly that this was a product I needed to be using myself! As a result, I often refer to niacinamide as “the most scientifically sensible thing you can do for your skin”.”
What are some of the biggest triggers for bad skin? “The list is quite extensive. Sun damage, lack of sleep, excess alcohol, smoking and finally, overly aggressive skin treatments are my top concerns. The last on that list is particularly common and under-appreciated. Many people are actually damaging their skin in their attempt to improve it. In response, I have developed the simple mantra “be kind to your skin”. Beware anything that strips, scours or otherwise leaves your skin sensitive. The Medi SkinSaver range has received rave reviews from celebrities
and makeup artists including Gucci Westman – tell us what the reaction has been like since you launched the range? “The reaction has been very positive. People using Medi SkinSaver love the way it feels - so pure and clean. Most importantly, they are seeing results. The range’s simplicity and affordability are well received too.”
ingredients available. As referred to previously, Medi SkinSaver doesn’t just include any form of Vitamin A, it uses the best. In addition, knowing what to leave out can be just as important as knowing what to add in. Finally, being flexible enough to know when to reformulate and wise enough to know when not to.”
result is different from what others are selling, that is just the way it turned out. Medi SkinSaver certainly isn’t driven by “point of difference” marketing strategies. The thought genuinely horrifies me.”
What are some of the hero products in the range? Any can’t live withouts?
Often skincare involves multiple steps – you seem to have kept your range quite simplified – tell us about that?
“I think everyone appreciates some form of recognition. I was grateful, certainly. It’s not something I tend to dwell on though. Life is this difficult journey where you are always learning; always falling down and getting back up again. There isn’t much room for hubris in that cycle!”
“Other than the Vitamin B serum we discussed, Medi SkinSaver’s Vitamin A serum is a particularly exciting formulation. It contains the current darling among the many forms of topical Vitamin A, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, or HPR. HPR is so biologically accessible to your skin cells that it produces maximal results, with minimal adverse reactions. Topical Vitamin A is a somewhat tricky customer in that you need to walk this tightrope between getting the best results (particularly in reducing lines and wrinkles) and a temporary itchy red overdose reaction known as retinoid dermatitis. HPR helps prevent you from falling off that tightrope. Medi SkinSaver’s formulation has a particularly pleasing consistency. I confess I’m quite proud of it!”
You speak about the importance of Vitamin B Serum – why is it such a gamechanger? “To be fair, Vitamin B3 has been around for a long while. But historically speaking, I do think it has been underrated both by the beauty industry and the general population. I’m not sure why. Perhaps it stood within the long shadow cast by Vitamin A? High profile research such as that by Professor Damian has been key in remedying that - particularly through identifying niacinamide as the preferred active form. One of the great things about topical Vitamin B3 is its safety profile. If you accidentally use too much, you will get some transient redness but that’s about it. Your cells just love B3. I think of it as fuel for healthy skin.”
What is the key to a great skincare range? “Keeping it as simple as possible whilst also incorporating the highest quality
“I’m front line. For decades I’ve listened to what people want. Most are time poor and don’t want to be overwhelmed by a complex routine. I think your skin probably feels the same way! An analogy I like to use is with dining. The best dishes are often quite minimalistic ingredient-wise. The art is in combining just the right ingredients. Less is often more and an overly rich meal can leave us feeling regretful afterwards. I think of skin care as food for your skin and don’t think it is wise to give it too much to process at once.”
Tell us the application steps… “As far as application goes, I do prefer to layer on the vitamin serum prior to applying the moisturiser. But I know men particularly can’t be bothered with even a two step process and just mix the serum and moisturiser in their palm and apply them both at once. Both methods produce results and it is certainly difficult to get more simple than that.”
Your price point is very reasonable – was that a goal of yours to make it accessible? “Absolutely. Skin damage and ageing don’t just affect the wealthy. From the outset I knew the range had to be affordable for everyone. I like to think of Medi SkinSaver as “skincare for the people”. It still includes the best ingredients but at a price point that is realistic for an ongoing skincare routine. After all, everyone deserves healthy skin.”
How do you make sure your range is different from others on the market? “I don’t, actually. I follow my own path, guided by my own experience and the needs of the people I treat. If the end
You have been hailed as one of the top 5 world-class facialist by Net-A-Porter – how does that make you feel?
What is one of the major concerns that clients have with their skin? “Ageing. Young women especially can often be a touch dismissive or even reckless, particularly with regards to sun exposure. But once they reach their late 30s or early 40s, they soon change their tune. My advice to young people reading this article: start your skin care now and above all, keep your skin out of the sun.”
What is the key to a successful beauty business? “Taking care of your clients. They have to remain your number one priority. That equates to the simple formula of: caring, caring, and more caring. When the patient is with you, focus on them and only them. Business and loving kindness are not necessarily mutually exclusive.”
Any lessons as a skincare formulator and founder that you want to share? “It’s not for the faint hearted. Formulating and manufacturing throws up so many obstacles and so many hoops to jump through. What is the statistic? That 90% of skincare ranges fail in the first 3 years? I don’t know if that is true, but it certainly sounds right. It is easy to enter business, put up a website and naively imagine that sales will follow. It doesn’t work that way. If you are sincere and passionate about your brand and genuinely believe your business will be a net plus for the world, then that should help you through the difficult times.” For details: www.thefacialroom.com.au n
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
83
BUSINESS
Lycon’s VALUABLE LUXURY FOCUS Increasingly quality counts now more than ever in the beauty business. Lydia Jordane reveals the driving force behind her company. WITH THE IMPACT of COVID-19 driving people to stay in more than ever, consumers sought things which would make them feel good, as well as do good. Self-care and wellness became a focal point in many homes around the globe, as trips to the salon were not possible, spurring on the DIY home treatment trend. ‘Staying in’ positively impacted the skincare sector because going out less decreased the need for makeup, drawing attention to the skin itself. Coupled with the new COVID-19 skin concerns of ‘maskne’, ‘Zoom Face’ and ‘blue light’ exposure, the yearning for deeper knowledge about skincare boomed. COVID-19 became the catalyst for consumers to seek out skincare advice through extensive online research, rather than the usual impulse purchasing and recommendations from friends. Effectiveness became a top priority for more luxurious products; no longer would a brand name suffice, it needed to have real quality ingredients with clear, evident results. Lydia says that now as consumers are shifting to a quality over quantity outlook, the quality of ingredients has never been more important. “Put simply, value trumps cost, as consumers have more time to understand the products and the brands they are buying from, and what their individual needs are. Sourcing the highest quality ingredients for the highest quality formulations is at the heart of LYCON’s creative R&D and manufacturing processes,” she says. She reveals that LYCON has a long-standing history of meticulous product development, with manufacturing experience that spans almost 50
84
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
years. It is coupled with her experience as LYCON CEO and founder. Lydia says her interest in beauty dates as far back as her childhood in the 50’s when she would always be meddling in her father’s cosmetics chemist laboratory, under his feet or on his lab bench. Today, all R&D at LYCON Cosmetics is conducted by LYCON’s in-house cosmetics chemist, with decades of cosmetic science experience, sharing Lydia’s passion for all things LYCON. LYCON’s formulating process starts with thorough ingredient research. “We look for high-quality ingredients that offer a real nurturing and corrective performance, coupled with delightful sensory appeal, whether through touch or scent. Most importantly, we use ingredients that have been scientifically proven to achieve real visible results,” she says. In addition, LYCON loves natural ingredients, especially Australian botanicals, which reflect who they are – a proudly Australian owned company which does all its own R&D and manufacturing, putting A-beauty in the limelight by hero-ing homegrown results driven ingredients. The team at LYCON is rigorous and super vigilant in ensuring that what the ingredients promise, the end products will deliver. Innovation and attention to detail is in LYCON’s DNA. Lydia believes luxury is more than just the product. “The consumer expects a myriad of other elements when spending extra money on luxury items. Whether the product is sustainable, ethical, unique, does it have that je ne sais quoi, which provides the essence of extraordinary about it, and is the packaging especially attractive and beautiful? More than the physical features, luxury is all about the experience, a moment of bliss. This is a strong focus of LYCON’s new premium bioceutical skincare collection LYCON Skin.” The range is an efficient, fuss-free, yet fully functional skincare collection, carefully formulated with a proprietary blend of ingredients to provide customers with the luxury of ‘effortlessly chic’ skincare. A beautifully packaged, vegan-friendly range, with customer experience and visible results at the forefront. The LYCON Skin professional range of facial and body care products, including massage oils, are the core of pampering care for beauty treatments in salons around the world. These products not only deliver superior results for the skin, but also create an unforgettable experience for the client, leaving them feeling indulged and delighted. Realising a need for quality at-home products to invigorate DIY treatments, LYCON Skin provides a retail range for clients to use in between salon treatments. With face masks especially becoming a staple for self-care routines, the LYCON Skin trio of facial masks not only smell divine, but are packed full of wonderful ingredients to cater for all types of skin, and are simple to use. Followed with the Revitalising Hyaluronic + B5 Booster Serum, LYCON Skin is a game-changer for self-care and visible skin improvements. LYCON features a multitude of superhero ingredients, which are especially prominent in LYCON Skin. The skincare industry is full of buzzwords, but what can these ingredients actually do for the skin?
A LYCON favourite. This superhero ingredient is beneficial for every skin type, especially people with environmental or age-related damage, stresses and deficiencies. It activates and encourages skin’s own fibroblasts to bring broad restorative and protective benefits. In addition, this multi-potent skin tonic stimulates the skin’s own ‘self-help’, which activates the skin’s immunity processes, deeply hydrates the skin, boosts collagen and cell renewal, soothes and calms sensitivities, supports the skin’s barrier function and reverses the visible signs of ageing, especially photo-ageing. Yeast Beta-Glucan is also a smart and responsive antioxidant in that it protects and promotes the skin’s own natural antioxidant defences.
Hyaluronic Acid Found naturally in skin, delivers an instant surge of hydration, smooths the skin’s surface and acts as a long-lasting water reservoir to help maintain dermal hydration and elasticity. Hyaluronic acid is like a drink of water for the skin. In addition LYCON Skin also incorporates the modern lowmolecular weight fraction Hyaluronic Acid, which
penetrates more deeply to provide enhanced hydration and plumping from within, visibly reducing lines and wrinkles.
Indigenous Australian botanicals These have unique proven caring and corrective benefits. Kakadu Plum, Illawarra Plum and Burdekin Plum are outstanding examples of the power of Australian botanicals. Thriving in harsh Australian conditions, these native plants are high in antioxidants that help to defend and detoxify the skin. These superfruit extracts are rich in vitamins A, C and E and anthocyanins which provide soothing and rejuvenating properties that counteract the effects of free radicals and reduce the visible signs of ageing. Australian Lime Caviar extract is another home-grown hero that offers a uniquely gentle AHA activity that safely but effectively promotes skin renewal and boosts radiance.
EXO-P™ Marine Extract This is extracted from French Polynesian Kopara. It’s a unique, patented ingredient ideally suited to modern skincare, which provides proven longlasting benefits. Pollution is everywhere and there are so many negative effects that pollution can have on the skin. EXO-P™ Marine Extract works hard to protect and care for skin under polluted conditions. This antipollution super ingredient will counteract skin dullness and act as a shield against external aggressors. Lydia says she endeavours to continue this ethos into the future, as they develop more products at the cutting edge of natural science and in harmony with their uniquely Australian perspective of clean, natural, fuss-free beauty. n
MEE T THE WOR LD’S ‘NE WEST ’ A N T I OX I DA N T An ancient ingredient has now been proven to protect against environmental stressors. A new study has proven Indian sandalwood oil’s antioxidant capabilities, outperforming Vitamin E in the protection of skin against pollution and blue light. Quintis is the world’s leading, sustainable Indian sandalwood supplier with over 20 years’ experience. Discover morewww.quintis.com.au/research at quintis.com.au/research QUINTIS.COM. AU www.quintis.com.au
BUSINESS
Yeast Beta-Glucan
://
s tp ht s/
ew /n ut bo /a
.au
m .co
is nt
i qu
CAREER
HOW I GOT HERE: JEFFREY DALEY CEO Sothys
Jeffrey tell us how you got into the beauty/ skincare industry? “I was manufacturing vitamins and health food supplements for a pharmacy in 1980 and the new trend of that time was Health & Beauty combined. So, I went looking for a sophisticated skin care range in France. Sothys was the stand-out star because it was scientifically based and a particularly good quality product. After that it was then up to my hard work and determination, as all business is.”
Why did you choose Sothys as a brand? “I had an instant connection with Sothys. Having been in the pharmaceutical industry for the decade earlier, I was particularly keen to work with a professional company that put a value on people first. Sothys has always been a family company and has the highest ethical behavior I have seen in any company over the past 50 years.”
How have you managed to remain such a market leader not just in Australia but around the world? “Sothys is not merely a marketing brand. We do not rely on contract manufacturers… this is the fundamental difference of Sothys success. Sothys is possibly the only professional cosmetic company in the world that is in control of every facet of its product development and creation processes. This control commences with a dedicated Sothys team of scientists devoted to Original Molecular Research in the creation of new patented active ingredients. From this original research, another Sothys team of scientists in the Applied Research laboratory then creates their unique formulations. From this scientific foundation, Sothys has its own manufacturing facilities where it makes all of its products. This gives Sothys the ability of flexibility for continual innovation and evolution, every year. This is what has enabled Sothys to ride the crest of change for over 40 years that I have been with them.”
Tell us the ethos of Sothys? “It is guided by a philosophical base. One of the greatest values that we are identified with in the market is unfailing ‘integrity’. Sothys was created in 1946 by a Biomedical specialist… and we have remained exclusively professional ever since. Sothys is truly created by professionals for professionals and we have never shifted from this standpoint. We have always been loyal to the
86
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Beauty Therapist exclusively. We do not sell over a parallel online site directly to the end user, and we have never been in OTC pharmacy or department stores.”
You are launching 35 products this year and nothing in the range is over three years old, how important is it to be innovative in the market? “Being continually innovative is the lifeforce of any company. Innovation is in the DNA of Sothys. With our full knowhow of scientific research ability, we are always turning out new and improved formulations all the time, we never rest on this.”
What lessons have you learnt along the way? “Never compromise your guiding principles!”
Why are customers so loyal to the brand? “They recognise that we are a genuine, people-focused brand (company) and that our ethics drive our relationships where we put people first. And, when you combine this with the fact that the product gives outstanding results, these two aspects have given great loyalty to Sothys in the marketplace for 40 years that it has been in Australia.”
What launches do you have planned for this year? “Our major launch this year is ‘Intelligent Organics’ … in other words performance-based from actives derived from Original Molecular Research. Sothys created its own 40 hectare Organic Beauty Garden “Les Jardin Sothys” in the pristine high country of South West France which also operates as a Botanical Research station. This year will see the launch of the first new Intelligent Organics line as part of its future philosophical evolution towards a purer form of cosmetics in the coming years.”
The market is inundated with skincare launches how do you stay ahead of the competition? “We just run our own race… Sothys is not for everyone. We supply to a sophisticated end-user where elegance and refinement is appreciated and sought after. We are always growing because people turn away from the harsher cosmetics seen everywhere today, preferring a results-driven skin care that also nurtures the soul as well as the skin. In our overexaggerated world, our understated marketing style is appreciated for its genuineness.” n
BEAUTY INDUSTRY NEWS STRAIGHT TO YOUR IN-BOX
Subscribe now
Register to receive your complimentary email newsletter: www.professionalbeauty.com.au/community
25
w
FOLLOW US:
w
ht
ke din .c /c
te
om
wit
om
/p
fe
be
ro
ro
ss na y/
s/
ut
t
ea
us
l-b
_a
t
au
us
y_
yA
ut
ut
ty
io
au
ea
ea
lB
_b
na
ro
io
/p
ss
/p ny
om
pa
r.c
fe
om
ro
.c
/P
m
om
ra
.c
ag
ok
st
bo
/t s:/
ce
in w.
tp
w
a w.f
w
w
in w.l
w
FINANCE
Tax Time
for beauty salons Nobody wants to pay more tax than they have to and the key to minimising your taxes is to ensure that you claim all the deductions you’re entitled to. If you’re a beauty therapist there’s a long list of potential claims that might apply to you. Mark Chapman reveals your financial checklist. The Golden Rules of Tax Deductions If you want to make a claim for work-related expenses, you need to follow the three golden rules: • The expense must relate to your work • You mustn’t have been reimbursed by your employer • You must be able to prove that you spent the money. That means that you must keep receipts, invoices or statements to demonstrate that you actually incurred the expense. H&R Block’s tip is to keep electronic copies of all documentation relating to expenses. Paper receipts get lost or fade, so keeping everything together on your phone or computer will save time and effort when you come to complete next year’s tax return.
Get Help There’s a reason why nearly 74% of people use a tax agent to help them do their taxes. Tax is complicated and stressful and if you do it yourself, you’re likely to make a mistake. You might claim something you weren’t entitled to and find yourself audited by the ATO or you might miss out on a deduction you could have claimed but didn’t realise was available to you; the result is a lower refund than you could have got.
Using your car If you use your car as part of your work, for instance to travel to clients, between jobs, to expos or to collect supplies, you can claim the costs of your work-related journeys. If you use your own car, either claim 72 cents per kilometre up to a maximum 5,000 kms or keep a logbook and claim your actual expenses. You can also claim for parking, tolls and public transport if you don’t use your car.
Equipment You can claim the cost of buying tools and equipment that you use in your job or business. If the item costs $300 or less, you can claim it straight away and if the cost is more than $300, the cost is depreciated over several years. If you’re in business on your own account, rather than being employed by someone else, you can immediately write off all items of equipment whatever the cost. This could include makeup brushes and applicators, waxing kits, mobile phones, laptops and bags or briefcases.
88
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
You can also claim the cost of insuring work-related equipment.
Self-Education You can claim the cost of any work-related courses that you undertake, provided that they relate directly to your current role and aren’t intended to boost your skills into a promotion or another role entirely. That could include courses on makeup techniques, massage and nails. It could also include management training if you supervise staff. In addition to the cost of the course, you can claim travel costs to and from the course, accommodation and meals if you’re required to sleep away from home, books, stationery and depreciation on computer equipment used in your study.
Clothing If you’re required to wear a uniform at your workplace, the cost of purchasing the uniform is claimable and you can also claim for the cost of cleaning the uniform.
Working from home As a result of COVID-19, you have probably had to relocate your working activity from business premises to your home. If so, you can claim a rate of 80 cents per work hour, so you will need to keep a record of the number of hours you have worked from home as a result of COVID-19. This will apply from 1 July 2020 until at least 30 June 2021. If you use the 80 cents per hour method, you can make no other claims in relation to working from home. So, items like mobile phone and internet usage are included in the 80-cent rate. If you run you own business from home, you can also claim occupancy expenses. These include the work-related portions of expenses such as mortgage interest (if you’re a home owner) and rent (if you’re a tenant), as well as rates and home insurance. Remember, if you own your home and claim expenses such as these, you’ll lose the Capital Gain Tax main residence exemption on the same proportion of your home that you’ve claimed expenses for. Mark Chapman is Director of Tax Communications for H&R Block Australia. www.hrblock.com.au
PROMOTION
10 YEARS OF CREATING AND MANUFACTURING GREAT SKINCARE AND HAIRCARE PRODUCTS Just over a decade ago Derelle Mitchell decided that she wanted to create and manufacture beauty products. Here is her story. DERELLE MITCHELL started off by creating shampoo and conditioner products and bought the assets of a small contract manufacturing business that was closing down and offered jobs to a few of their employees so that she had some manufacturing technical expertise to underpin her new venture. After a relatively short period of commuting over an hour to work each way to her newly founded business, Derelle took the big step and purchased a property nearer to home so that she could spend less time in the traffic and more time building her business. So, seven semi-trailer loads of equipment later, business commenced at the new premises in the northern Brisbane bayside suburb of Clontarf with a handful of clients and a small team to make their products. Today the business has more than 30 staff and an enviable list of clients, many taking their brands and products to overseas markets. The business has been built on hard work, employing a great team and developing collaborative partnerships with its clients. Over the past ten years HFM has obtained a number of certifications that can provide clients with great confidence in having their products manufactured by Derelle’s team. After gaining ISO9001 accreditation some eight years
ago the business is now certified organic with COSMOS (the European certified organic standard), Australian Certified Organic and the Organic Food Chain. Furthermore, HFM is now also an ISO 22716 Good Manufacturing Practices for Cosmetics certified business which is a global pre-requisite for cosmetic and skincare products that are to be to be exported to countries around the world. The research and development laboratory at HFM is home to a team of four formulating chemists who develop bespoke formulations for products for HFM clients wanting to take new products to market, everything from high end skincare serums through to hair detanglers and deodorants. Today, HFM is a leading Australian contract manufacturer of personal care, skincare and haircare products that works with companies of all sizes to take beautiful products to market. It has come a long way in 10 years. And there are future plans to build a state-of-the-art GMP/TGA facility for the next phase of growth well into the next decade. If you are looking at getting skincare or haircare products formulated and manufactured you can find out more about the business at www.healthfocusmanufacturers.com.au or by calling the office directly on (07) 3883 1355. n
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
89
The beauty of STARTING YOUR OWN BUSINESS
Have you been dreaming of running your own beauty business but not sure where to start? Now’s the time to make it happen. With a bit of planning and some wise tips you can start being the boss of your own salon in no time. By Jane Mason.
90
|
What’s your why?
Get your business going
Before you start picking up the brushes, take a moment to really consider your ‘why’. Why do you want to start your own business? Is it the freedom of being your own boss and having a flexible work-life balance? Or maybe there’s a niche in the market you’re passionate to explore. Whatever it is that drives you, when you identify your why, write it down. It will be something you can reflect upon on those days when you may be feeling unfocused and need a reminder of why you started your business. Having a clear idea of the kind of salon you want and its direction, will help when it comes to making big business decisions. It’s also a foundation for creating a passionate business that’s driven to succeed.
Now that you’ve established your motivation for getting into business, it’s time to put the gears into motion. The beauty industry offers the opportunity to structure your business in a way that is going to work best for you. When you are researching different structures, keep in mind the following: • Where will you operate your business from? Beauty professionals often lease a space to establish their salon or set up a salon at home. There’s also the option to get out on the road and operate as a mobile business. • What kind of assets do you need? Chances are you’ve got a fair bit in your kit already, but take the time to assess what new tools of the trade you may need to get the job done. Think chairs, specialised equipment and even robes for example. • Have you set up your business banking? Make sure you have things like your business account, online payment systems and devices all set up so you can hit the ground running from the very first customer.
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Making it real Once you’ve got the tools in place to start running your business, it’s time to
Marketing magic After putting in all that effort to establish your business, it’s time to create a marketing plan to drive your clients through the door. When it comes to marketing this may be an area of your business that you will outsource and get external assistance with or something you will manage yourself. If you decide to take on your own marketing, there’s plenty of resources to help. Why not start with some online marketing tutorials? Online classes from sites like Skillshare, Google and Udemy can support with all aspects of marketing your business. Time is precious when running your own business and that’s why it pays to make apps your best friend. From helping schedule social media posts to creating sleek graphic designs, there is pretty much an app for everything when it comes marketing. A few good ones to begin with are Canva, Hootsuite, Facebook Ads Manager and Google Analytics. An essential part of successful marketing is being active on social media. Consistently posting
BUSINESS
make it official, an exciting stage of your business adventure. Some of these tasks will include: • Registering your business name with ASIC– this is a pretty simple process which is done via the ASIC website. It’s easy to use and provides all the resources you need to know and have ready before registering your business name. • Get your Australian Business Number (ABN)Your ABN is your business’ unique 11 digit number that is used to help identify your business to the government. You can access more information and start the process of registering for your ABN on the Australian Business Register website. • Protect your trademark- Another thing you may need to consider registering are trademarks for your business’ name, brand or logo. This helps to keep it unique and from being copied by another business. • Set up a business website- Having an online presence for your business is a vital channel to connect with your customers by letting them know you’re open for business. There are many different website options available, with different degrees of difficulty to set up and pricing. A few popular website options include WiX, WordPress, Google My Business and GoDaddy.
and interacting helps build your business’ online presence, attracting more clients and connecting with others within the beauty industry.
Insure your business You’ve invested time and money into making your beauty business dream come to life, so it makes sense to protect it. Take some time to assess the different kinds of risks your business is exposed to and what assets your business couldn’t afford to be without. There are many different types of business insurance* available, but you don’t necessarily need every coverage for your business. Here’s a few different types of business insurances you may need to consider:Professional Indemnity Being a beauty professional, you are an expert when it comes to making your clients look and feel amazing. From giving advice to providing treatments, your clients expect the best- so when things don’t go to plan you may be faced with some unexpected challenges. Professional Indemnity insurance is designed to protect your business from losses claims made against you arising from actual or alleged negligence or omissions in the provision of your professional service or advice. Professional Indemnity Insurance will also assist with the legal costs associated with responding to or managing claims which are covered by your policy.
Public Liability Insurance Working closely with clients whether at your own salon or as a mobile business means there’s a risk for things to go wrong. Slips, trips, mishaps caused by chemicals, hot wax, scissors, razors, electrical equipment are some of the unfortunate accidents which could cause havoc for your business. That’s where Public Liability insurance comes into play. Public Liability insurance is designed to provide protection for you and your hair and beauty business in the event a customer, supplier or a member of the public is injured or sustains property damage as a result of your negligent business activities.
Business Insurance To keep your business going, you rely on things like your stock, your equipment, salon contents and your commercial premises. This is where Business Insurance can provide peace of mind. Business Insurance is an insurance package designed to provide cover for your business contents, stock, tools and commercial premises when an insured event occurs (such as fire, storm, theft or even accidental damage). A Business Insurance package can also cover your portable equipment, glass and for loss of revenue due to a business interruption in specified circumstances. Having a solid insurance plan should be a priority for every salon owner, regardless of the size of your business. The last thing you need is an incident to cause your business to go into turmoil, potentially causing you to go out of business due to financial and damage to your reputation. n
Jane Mason is the Product & Channel Manager at BizCover, Australia’s leading online insurance service provider. www.bizcover.com.au
^ BizCover Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769). BizCoverTM does not compare all general insurers or insurance products in the market, only those listed on our website. We act as agent of the insurer in respect of any insurance policy purchased through us and not as your agent. * As with any insurance, cover will be subject to the terms, conditions and exclusions contained in the policy wording. The information contained in this article is general only and should not be relied upon as advice.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
91
EVENTS
GOING GREEN WITH PB: PAUL FRASCA TALKS SALONS, SUSTAINABILITY AND SOLUTIONS ‘Sustainability’ was the word on everyone’s lips during Professional Beauty’s breakfast event at The Butler in Potts Point. Sipping coffee and devouring a decadent breakfast, skincare connoisseurs and PR directors were among many gathered to celebrate the launch of Professional Beauty’s sustainable beauty issue. Paul Frasca, co-founder and general manager at Sustainable Salons, wowed the room with a discussion on the business benefits of sustainability practices. He honed in on the growing influence of the ‘conscious consumer,’ and the importance of attracting this client. As the breakfast came to an end guests were thrilled to be leaving with goodie bags from Cangrow lashes and Babor Skincare, and a better understanding of the importance of sustainability to business in 2021.
92
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
ww i w.b
r. ve zco
Looking to save on Business Insurance? #BizSave with BizCover Competitive pricing for your business insurance
for every dollar spent on a new small business insurance policy*
Compare
Search #BizSave now!
Insure
Instant online cover – no paperwork
Save
Save yourself time and money, backed by our Price Promise^
bizcover.com.au/bizsave
e av
Compare multiple quotes online in minutes
zs /bi au
m. co NOW EARN QANTAS POINTS
1300 805 821
*A business must be a Qantas Business Rewards Member to earn Qantas Points for their business. A one-off join fee of $89.50 including GST normally applies, however this will be waived for BizCover customers. Membership and Qantas Points are subject to Qantas Business Rewards Terms and Conditions. BizCover customers will earn 1 Qantas Point for every $1 spent on all new business insurance policies, up to a maximum of 10,000 points per policy. Qantas Points for business are offered under the BizCover Terms and Conditions. Any claims in relation to Qantas Points under this offer must be made directly to BizCover. Qantas Points will be credited to the Members’ Business Rewards account within 100 days of purchase. A customer is only eligible to receive points if they have purchased directly through BizCover (not through a referral or white label partner) and not used any discount or promotional code in making the purchase. ^ Ts & Cs apply, see: www.bizcover.com.au/price-promise The information provided is general only and should not be relied upon as advice. No guarantees are provided as to pricing for individual risks. BizCover™ Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769). © 2021 BizCover. BC1778
EVENTS
A SUPPLEMENT A DAY KEEPS DULL SKIN AWAY Sydney’s beauty and wellness press were invited to a lovely breakfast at The Ivy’s Sunroom to celebrate the launch of the newest supplement range by Australian NaturalCare. Guests spent their morning sipping coffee and Marine Collagen Plus Mineral smoothies (available in flavours original, citrus lime and cranberry (yum!)). The decor in the Sunroom was an ode to the flavours, with gorgeous pink, blue and green floral arrangements spanning the tables and fixtures. While some sipped and chatted, others struck a pose as they sat for artist Alexandra Nea for a personalised illustration to take home (or sit by their desk as one PB beauty editor has!). As breakfast was served, guests sat to hear about the many ways Marine Collagen Plus Minerals will keep their skin glowing, their locks luscious and their nails strong through winter.
A SOFT SPOT FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Beauty editors were whisked into a luxurious Parisian fantasy as they gathered at Double Bay’s Cafe Sur L’Avenue for the launch of QED skincare. Founder and pharmacist Shoshana Eisner created a skincare line catering to a variety of skin types, particularly those with sensitivities. Guests were gifted the entire range of ‘no-rinse’ cleansers, with tailored options for oily, dry, dehydrated and ageing skin types, along with the luxurious body scrub. QED prides itself on being a fragrancefree skincare line. However guests were met with the opportunity to satisfy their senses and individualise their skincare by selecting their own fragrance to be blended with their treatment. But don’t worry, you can do this too! QED offers this perk on their website to all fragrance junkies out there, with a smart-select pathway to help shoppers match with their perfect scent.
94
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
VIDA GLOW GOES GLOBAL Local and international celebrities flocked to picturesque Sydney harbour to celebrate the global launch of Vida Glow Marine Collagen. Stars like American pop-sensation Rita Ora, Australian Triple J favourite Vera Blue and supermodel Gemma Ward were treated to six experiential spaces where they got up close and personal with the Vida Glow brand. The tour included a delicious tasting experience combining their Marine Collagen in Mocha with ice cream (we’ll take two). Other activations included installations like “the Glow Matrix,” a mesmerising installation inspired by the cellular functions behind glowing skin. Founder Anna Lahey has experienced blockbuster success on home soil with one unit of Vida Glow selling every four seconds. Now she has her sights set firmly on international expansion saying “we are taking the opportunity to evolve Vida Glow, and cement ourselves as the international leaders in ingestible beauty.”
Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Ruby Feneley, at rfeneley@intermedia.com.au.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY
|
95
LAST WORD
Georgina
Westley
This award-winning leading artist proudly holds the Australian Industry Awards 2020 Cosmetic Tattooist of the Year. The founder of Distinctive Features reveals a few of her life changing milestones to Anita Quade.
I’m most proud of… “Myself. I could write a book of what I’ve done in my life to get to where I am. It would be a rather comical portrayal of high school drop-out, runaway child, troubled teen-turned-divorced-singlemother-of-two, with a child with an intellectual disability and now a successful entrepreneur.” My ‘ah ha’ moment was… “in 2015 I went through my divorce. Instead of sitting around sulking when my kids were with their dad, I sat at my computer and wrote everything I knew about Cosmetic Tattooing in a book. It took me so long, about 10 months I think. When I finished (the first edition), I realised I was definitely onto something.”
96
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
I love the art of tattooing because… “Every day is different. I get to create art, I get to change people’s lives. I get to give confidence back to people for so many reasons. I get instant gratification every day when I make people look younger, look brighter and happier.”
The biggest life lesson I have learned… “My whole life is a lesson. All the lessons I’ve learned are what lead me to who I am and I wouldn’t be who I am without them.”
My mantra is… “You have one life, and it’s short, so make the most of it! I’m definitely a ‘doer’.”
My goal this year is… “To get through to 2022 both happy and healthy. I want to try and start to give myself time off to just live a better life. I’ve literally worked my butt off for years to get my businesses to where they are, so I think it’s time to start thinking about me a bit.”
I would tell this to my younger self… “Don’t try and grow up so quickly. Slow down and think before you act, and don’t talk back to authority.”
I love the beauty industry because… “It’s ever changing. Ever since I was a young girl I’ve always been obsessed with makeup and beauty. Still to this day we have so many new and exciting machines and technologies always coming out.”
ww
om
.c sha re w.f
AD INDEX
index Advanced Cosmeceuticals
8, 9, 17, 47, 61
Advanced Nutrition (Margi Fox Dist)
39
Artav 19 BIOLOGI 57 Biz Cover
93
CanGrow 53 Comfortel 77 Derma Aesthetics (Dermaviduals)
6, 7
Dermaenergy 63 Dermalist 75 Dermalogica 23 Ex-Imports 55 Fresha 97 Health Focused Manufacturers
89
Kitomba 24 Lycon
51, 81
Long Lashes (Cangrow)
89
Payot
4, 5
Professional Beauty Solutions
10, 11
Quintis 85 Reed
1, 28, 29, 30, 31, 99
Sothys
2, 3, 79
Ultraderm
21, 27
Victoria Curtis
37
Waterlily OBC
98
|
WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU
Makeup Artist: Krista Jade. Photographer: Weronika Mamot.
Let your creativity run wild! An annual highlight of the Australian makeup industry, the Face2Face Makeup Awards reward extraordinary makeup artists for their craft, creativity and passion. This is the must-enter competition for any makeup artist serious about their career.
CATEGORIES: BRIDAL My Modern Bride
Saturday 28 August 2021 3.00pm – 4.00pm
BODY ART 2021 Gratitude
Sunday 29 August 2021 8.30am – 2.30pm
CREATIVE MAKEUP Portrait of My Creative Dreams Sunday 29 August 2021 10.30am – 2.30pm
BEAUTY EDITORIAL PHOTOGRAPHIC CATEGORY Love Letter to My Makeup Artist Heart
HOW TO ENTER
Please enter online by 5pm, Friday 6 August 2021 Head to beautyexpoaustralia.com.au for further details and click ‘BUY TICKETS’ to register
ENTRY PRICE PER CATEGORY
$70
SEE YOU AT BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA 28-29 AUGUST 2021 AT THE ICC SYDNEY, DARLING HARBOUR
Enter 2 or more categories and get FREE Expo Entry!
ww
rl ate w.w
ily
o nb ski
sp dy
tua -ri
spa au/ . om a.c
ls