INSTYLE - January/February 2017

The Magazine for the Hairdressing Professional

January/February 2017

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INEDIT

PUBLISHED BY BHA MEDIA A division of The Intermedia Group ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 INTERMEDIA MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover BHA MEDIA MANAGING DIRECTOR Glenn Silburn EDITOR Cameron Pine cameron@intermedia.com.au DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren King lauren@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY & ONLINE EDITOR Shannon Gaitz sgaitz@intermedia.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Larissa Macleman Daniel Dickson Fleur Murphy Nouruloyun Borghol Tam Allenby NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Joanne Cowan jcowan@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper ART DIRECTOR Melissa Drennan HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION INSTYLE is published six times a year SUBSCRIPTION PRICES (Australia Rates) 1yr (6 issues) for $75.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $120.0 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $157.50 (inc GST) Please make cheques payable to; The Intermedia Group PO BOX 55, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 1800 651 422 Fax: 02 9660 4419 Circulation: 14,000 This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

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FROM THE EDITOR

T

he second month of twenty seventeen and already the chaos of January has caused me to wonder about whether it really is possible to work smarter and not harder. We live in a world of so much disruption both socially and emotionally to take us away from our path. Writing down goals for the year are only as good as the time you have to reach them – focusing on your own goals is increasingly difficult when we spend so much time casting an eye on others. Beneath the chaos and stress of a yearly calendar that is already fi lling up fast is the opportunity to do things differently. We’ve set out to make it easier for you whether it be a revolution or refresher. Every February we provide you with the industry’s only dedicated education magazine as a bonus with the issue.

To be truly great we need a better perspective than the one we had yesterday - coupled with an environment that affords balance in our lives. Training diets, weight loss, detox, social media addiction clinics, mental health clinics, drug abuse, alcoholism, family differences – sorry for the hard-hitting perspective but the reality is we live in a world far more complex than our ancestors, with more reason not to reach our true desires than ever. We must sacrifice to achieve what we really want – purely down to the amount of ‘noise’ that living in 2017 brings.

We are so impatient, we want everything now and expect a response straight away and its this impetuosity that results in a lack of detail – so rather than slow burning accomplishments we often take pleasure in the fact that we know we can move straight onto the next thing rather than effectively deal with or fi x the last. The same idea has occurred in the education industry – where by speeding up courses and the access to training, we’ve lost the detail of the craft.

Our industry loves to come together through events, education and celebrations – staying on top of it all is not easy and it’s impossible to be recognized by all - you’re not always going to be able to be recognized by everyone for what you do.

The best way to be your best is to do what you love, ignore what you don’t and spend your time as wisely as possible by focusing on what’s going to give you and only you the most fulfi llment. It’s impossible to be all things to all people – a pressure that builds the more advanced each generation becomes. If only I could take a bit of my own advice here – something has got to give and you need to ask yourself how much are you prepared to pay for not doing what you love? If you want to be the entertainer and that’s your personality, be prepared for some other aspects of your life to suffer – whether it be fi nances or organization in general, it’s impossible to maintain perfection and a flawless façade in every area while improving yourself along the way.

Take a copy of our annual mini magazine and plan some further education at your own pace and remember you don’t have to have it all worked out straight away. We’ve designed it to be a reminder of some of your favourite people and courses throughout the year and not add stress to your already busy lives.

Here’s to a year of the quiet achiever and don’t be disappointed if you don’t achieve everything you’d set out to – it doesn’t mean you aren’t making progress. If this is all a bit obvious for you or those among you that feel you’ve learnt everything you need to – I have some different advice. Just open your mentality and mindset and get out there on the streets, just walking somewhere you wouldn’t usually go, can be enough to inspire you.

As legendary photographer Bill Cunningham once said, “The best fashion show is defi nitely on the street. Always has been. Always will be.”

We have fashion to thank the constant energy and fervor of the industry we work in. Take some time to hit the streets and do whatever it is you love and who cares whether you’ve got time for it or not. You’re only going to build resentment if you don’t live your life and learn lessons your own way. Pick your own pathway.

Cameron Pine, Editor

@instylehairmag www.twitter.com/styleicons_aust www.facebook.com/INSTYLEstyleicons

INSTYLE 9

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CONTENTS 14 39

ON THE COVER 38

64 84

Salon Profiles INprofile Clive Allwright INhealth Maintain Your Energy

REGULARS 16 56 57 58 60 68 78 80 82 88 92 93 94

UPfront Industry News Style File Roll-in Style File Slim Aarons INmanual Soiree Season My Way Free Reign of Style INhair Latest Products INbeauty Beauty News INbeauty Resurfacing INbeauty Treatment Foundations INsalon Tools and Accessories INbusiness Shortcuts INbusiness DMK's Dan Dixon INbusiness Salon Owners Collective

ONSTAGE 24

25 26 28 30 32 34 36

TONI&GUY Culture Shock Hair Expo 2017 Franck Provost Awards Dyson Professional Ssh! 2016 American Crew for Elvis Presley Festival Paul Mitchell Color Outside The Lines Shu Uemura Gallery of Style

FEATURES 14

42 44 46 50 51 52 54 62 66 74 77 86 90

Dannii Minogue for L’Oréal Professionnel Indesign Ham Yard Hotel Trending Salon Style INpeople Arnauld Jambart Cosmoprof Asia 2016 KMS California Rebrand INpeople SACO’s Richard Ashforth Interview with Franck Provost ghd Joins COTY Richard Ward Salon INcollection British Hairdressing Awards, Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year Berlin Fashion Week Bernard.Gueit Studios System Professional 'Hair Energy'

57 56

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INFEATURE

EVERY WOMAN Shannon Gaitz talks with mother, international star and all-new L’Oréal Professionnel muse Dannii Minogue about her headlinemaking blonde conversion.

DANNII MINOGUE MAY be an international mega-star, but in sitting down with her at the Langham Sydney to talk about everything from her new venture with L’Oréal Professionnel, to her recent transition back to blonde, to 80s horror hair stories, a thought struck me – Dannii could be any one of your clients, and her dramatic hair change with the brand’s ground-breaking new Smartbond technology, shows them all that 2017 is the year of transformation.

No, your clients’ hair changes won’t make national headlines like Dannii’s did, but at the end of the day Dannii is a working mother with a limited amount of time to devote to her hair, a social media user who’s every look is zoomed in on and scrutinised and an experienced traveller who often has to bounce between salons when in other states or countries – which of your clients can’t relate to that?

These applicable hair struggles form the basis of Dannii’s new partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel, where she’ll act as the brand’s first local hair muse, launching the relationship with the aforementioned turn to blonde. Dannii stepped into Xiang QV Salon Melbourne with her famous brunette locks, put her hair in the hands of L’Oréal Professionnel Colourist, Danielle Solier and emerged with blonde hair for the first time since the 90s. Her enthusiastic initial response was captured and shared widely on social media feeds Australia-wide.

“I’m so excited to debut my hair transformation, which I just love,” Danni enthused. “I love innovation in beauty and 14 INSTYLE

I’ve been looking for a product that would take blonde to the next level for me. The L’Oréal Professionnel team and Smartbond have transformed my colour, but the salon service has also kept my hair strong and protected.”

The new technology acts as a protecting and strengthening service, simply added to

the colour to ensure no extra time is spent in the chair (again, a priority for so many modern women) and allowing for colour flexibility without sacrificing on health.

Dannii had wanted to go back to blonde for some time, and her recent decision came from both her trust in L’Oréal Professionnel to take care of her hair, as

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well as the somewhat pedestrian notion of simply having more time.

“I had wanted to go back to blonde for a while, but being a Mum, last year I wanted to get my son settled into school, and I just didn’t really feel like other distractions; I feel like now I’ve gotten back to me,” she shared. “The old me is so experimental with hair and trying everything, but I just wanted to get settled into [motherhood] and went into this whole mother earth phase, the focus wasn’t on me, and now that my son’s becoming more independent with going to school, it felt like the right time.”

Where every client will have vested interest in their hair health, and the ability to colour their hair without it becoming damaged, Dannii’s hair concerns (and therefore the trust she must put in her salons and brands) is heightened further.

This is due to her being in the public eye and how much she has to style her hair while being in the entertainment industry.

“For what I do for work my hair is constantly styled so I have to be very careful about what I choose to do with it and who’s touching it,” she said. “Then with high definition TV and televisions being so large these days, you have to be even more careful.”

Although her position on your primetime TV screen seems unique, Dannii points out that we’re now all in the public spectre, with the looming presence of social media and the all-new Instagram feature allowing users to zoom in ensuring all your clients – famous or not – can settle for nothing less than perfection. “I think everyone’s become more discerning about the quality of the picture, the product and how you apply it,” she said, noting that brands have to keep up, releasing technologies that cater to a society where everyone’s now an aesthetic expert.

What does differentiate Dannii from your many clients is that she grew up on

the screen, with many Google-able images of her past hair mishaps still available today. Like all of us today, anything Dannii does is now saved in the Internet’s memory forever, and so the stakes, for both clients and hairdressers, are high.

“In the 80s there are pictures of my hair with blonde colour in it, with a perm and having it tonged on top of that, it’s just crazy,” she laughed. “When I was a young teenager I had this frizz that was fried and permed and just went straight up with so much hairspray, and that just seemed totally normal, that’s when you would go to a hair salon and fry your hair. It’s mad how much times have changed.”

Times have changed enough for your clients to put so much of their faith in you, the hairdresser, as Dannii did with L’Oréal Professionnel. This is thanks to new technology that allows you to assess, protect and adequately treat hair, as well as increasing education and upskilling in the hair industry, permitting more choice and assurance than ever before.

With Dannii’s newfound leap into blonde catapulting the partnership, she’ll also be involved as a representative of the brand across a multitude of platforms, from radio and TV to editorial shoots.

“We are thrilled to partner with such an incredible beauty like Dannii Minogue to coincide with the launch of L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond,” said Olga Zanetti, General Manager of L’Oréal Professionnel Australia. “She completely embodies the spirit of the L’Oréal Professionnel woman, connecting with

our consumers all across Australia. From her style to her outstanding career and personal achievements, her association with L’Oréal Professionnel Australia sparks an exciting new era for the brand in 2017.”

Yes, Dannii Minogue really is the quintessential L’Oréal Professionnel woman, a working mother under the spotlight of social media (and, more uniquely, TV cameras), who has to have confidence in her salon wherever she may find herself – and now, thanks to Smartbond, she does.

“L’Oréal Professionnel said that when you sit in a seat with their colourist you can be absolutely sure that you’re in good hands and they know exactly what they’re doing,” Danni said. “My next colour appointment will be in London with someone I’ve never worked with before, but I feel absolutely confident. It’s about choosing good salons, good product and asking questions.”

And with this confidence, which headlines does Dannii think she’ll take her hair colour to next?

“I totally 100 per cent want to try pink in it,” Danni said, commenting that she should probably time it around the school holidays so she doesn’t have to face the school drop off with bright colour, in a conversation we’re sure you’ve had with many of your mother clients.

“I love all those ice lolly colours so that is something that I want to try, I think it’s me just getting back into this, the more brave decisions with hair, it would be fun to experiment and try new styles.”

If she can do it, any modern L’Oréal Professionnel woman can.

For more information visit lorealprofessionnel.com.au INSTYLE 15

UPFRONT I N D U S T R Y

MUSE COLLECTION Angelo Seminara’s latest collection is titled MUSE - a collection where “graphic shapes and whimsical optical illusions” play with structure, colour and gravity itself, defying the eye and captivating audiences enough to ensure that Angelo took home the title of British Hairdresser of the Year at 2016’s British Hairdressing Awards.

The collection is built on interrupted colour patterns and surprising shapes, creating optical illusions that are as intriguing as they are technically ambitious to achieve. The images personify two decades of Angelo’s ground-breaking experience within the British hairdressing industry, while also pointing to the future with an electro-static, modern editorial aesthetic, that still masters classic femininity and sophistication.

Credits: Hair Direction: Angelo Seminara Photographer: Andrew O’Toole Styling: Lotta Aspenberg Make-up: Laura Dominique

16 INSTYLE

H A P P E N I N G S

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Welcome Grindstone’s new Hoppers Crossing Location, otherwise known as Grindstone Kitchen, a coffee shop/ barbershop hybrid that opened in November. The space offers high-level coffee, a full café menu and four barber chairs with a long list of male-focused styling services.

The concept was developed by Grindstone Co-Director Heath Flint, who’s been in the hairdressing industry for 30 years and owns 6 hair salons. Seeing the low percentage of male clients in his salons compared to women, Heath started expanding, adding Grindstone brand barbershops next to many of his preexisting salons and making those salons more female-specific.

Heath launched these new complementary barbershops alongside Grindstone Barbers and Baristas, a barbershop with a drinks-only café menu in Werribee, the success of which led onto the all-new Grindstone Kitchen. Four Grindstone barber spaces now exist, with more in the pipeline.

“A big reason we went into the barbering field was that our percentage of male clientele was really low compared to women, and we basically put a survey out and figured out why men wouldn’t come to the salon, and a big reason was that they don’t want to make appointments,” Heath shared. “They don’t know where they’re going to be at any given time, they just want it done when they want it done so that’s why we don’t answer the phone in the barbershops, and we don’t take appointments.”

The Hoppers Crossing space in particular has been well received in both hairdressing and culinary circles (being named in the ‘The Best of 2016’ and ‘Best Places to Eat Th is Summer’ as listed by the Melbourne Breakfast Diary despite its short time of operation), and its succeeded by keeping its specialities distinct.

“We do specialty coffee, the baristas are baristas, we don’t have barbers making coffee, we don’t have kids doing our coffee, we have guys that love coffee,” Heath said. “As for our barbers, we have a lot of guys with good skills.”

The space operates under an interesting system, taking no bookings, adhering to their clients’ preferences to simply walk in, and having their customers wait their turn for the chair as they enjoy a breakfast and coffee in the (gender-neutral) café.

“We start at 7am, 7 days a week, and we fi nd it’s quite busy from 7 to 9 in the morning because blokes just come in, put their name on the board, get breakfast, get a coffee and wait, we have a big chalk board and they just write their names on when they come in, then we just yell out the number or the name.”

The barber shop offers an extensive menu, specialising in all male haircuts, to full shaves and even clipper art work. The aesthetic portrays the salon’s old school vibe, selecting raw concreate bench tops, American Crew products and art work, classic barber chairs and traditional black and white floors to defi ne the space. “It’s a very man space,” Heath insists. “It’s not metro-sexual modern man, its old school.” grindstonebarbers.com

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UPFRONT

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ELEVEN AUSTRALIA STYLE THE 2017 AACTA AWARDS FOXTEL PRESENTED THE 6th annual Australian Academy of Cinema and Television Arts (AACTA) Awards in January, pulling in ELEVEN Australia as hair partner for a night that honoured our local entertainment industry.

With the hair styling covered by ELEVEN Australia Co-Creative Director Joey Scandizzo and his hairdressing team of eight, the backstage crew styled a myriad of Australia’s most renowned entertainment exports, assisting them through the AACTA Awards

SECURE YOUR TICKETS FOR DESTINATION I.SALON

SALON SUPPORT’S DESTINATION i.salon event is fast approaching, offering a four-day extravaganza of education.

The line-up allows you to learn directly from world-wide precision cutting sensations Jean Baptiste Mazella and Dove Palmer of Mazella&Palmer, globally-recognised creative colourist and social media aficionado Rebecca Taylor, Master Barber and TV personality Ben Mollin along with Australia’s most sought after business presenter, Julie Piantadosi.

The education trip takes place at the esteemed Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort on the Gold Coast from Sunday 16th July to Wednesday 19th July. salonsupport.com.au 18 INSTYLE

Styling Suite that came before the flashing red carpet. Bonnie Sveen, Zoe Ventoura, Melina Vidler, and Sophie Hensser were just some of the celebrities to have their hair styled by the team.

“We are extremely proud to be working with the Australian Film Institute and AACTA again in 2016,” Joey said. “It’s a privilege to work with the nation’s top film and television talent and help celebrate their achievements at the industry’s biggest awards ceremonies.” elevenaustralia.com

EMSIBETH COSMETICS PRESENT IN ITALY RENATO DE FELICE, an Emsibeth Cosmetics educator, performed a livecutting demonstration at the Turin’s You Hair & Beauty Show in Italy, with a show concept that was divided into two parts - ‘red’, representing Italian passion and ‘white’, for a more futuristic feeling.

Over the past 12 years, Renato has established a working method and philosophy named AWARE, which is dedicated to aiding stylists’ hands by increasing their sensitivity via a sensorial educational program. contacthairservices.com

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2017 AUSTRALIAN FAME TEAM FINALISTS ANNOUNCED THE FUTURE IS now, with the biggest and brightest young hairdressing stars named as Australian FAME Team fi nalists.

“It’s always wonderful to see familiar faces who didn’t make it last time giving it another shot after working all year to improve themselves,” said Brett McKinnon, Creative Director for the 2017 FAME Team. “It’s exactly this dedication and perseverance which we look for in a FAME Team member.”

These talented young hairdressers will be whittled down to the four 2017 FAME Team winners after a live skills demonstration and model presentation. The new team members will be announced at the Australian Hair Fashion Awards on April 2nd.

Congratulations to the finalists.

Anmar Sahar - Djurra Lifestyle @anmarsahar Brodie-Lee Stubbins - Rokstar @brodieleerokstar Cara Mio Robinson - Fruition @carakamikaze Claudia Cataldo - Cataldo’s @cataldos_salon Dion Lee Andrew - TONI&GUY Georges @dlacreative Emily Alterator - Fruition @lemony_snicket Jamie Furlan - Xiang Hair @jamiefurlan Joe Ribera - Visare Hair Studio @joe_ribera Laura Hudson - Laura Hudson Hair Design @ laurahudsonhairdesign Laura Spinney - Academie Salon @lauraexplorer Marie Cain - Head Studio @mim_i_am_ Shantelle Neate - Fruition @yellowspoons Simone Jade Menenti - Sloans Of Lane Cove @simonejadem Tiffany Decaux - Boris The Cuttery @tiffanydecaux

EVY PROFESSIONAL ANNOUNCE NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hair tools brand EVY Professional has welcomed a new face to its ranks, with the appointment of Sam JamesCockayne as Creative Director. The talented hairdresser is the Salon Director for Orbe North Adelaide and the 2016 HOT SHOTS Visionary titleholder, with an eye for creative hair that makes her ideally suited to the role.

“To be announced as the new EVY brand ambassador in the role of Creative Director is a very exciting opportunity for me,” Sam shared. “I can’t wait to help grow the brand and create more awareness around these incredible tools and a brand I strongly believe in." aquabaci.com.au

20 INSTYLE

MUCH LIKE THE holiday season itself, ghd’s annual Christmas visual merchandising competition has come to a close, with the high-profi le hair tool brand awarding the winner of the prestigious contest. In 2016, the competition centred around the brand’s latest Copper Luxe collection, tasking ghd salons to create copper inspired displays to show off the collection and entice clients into their salons.

The competition received hundreds of entries, more than doubling the response in 2015, all of which showcased different approaches that were equal parts playful and glamorous. As well as the trendycoloured tools and luxurious packaging, the salons were aided by ghd artwork focusing on the idea of breaking the (hair) rules over the holiday season.

Each state winner received a $1500 prize of professional visual merchandising services to be used in reference to the 2017 annual pink campaign and Christmas collection, while the international winner won $2000 in services. Th is year that honour went to Sue Matthews of the Floreat Sam Rifici Hair Care Centre in Western Australia.

“The competition is a good motivator to present the best possible window display.

So many of our customers stopped and commented on the display, which was a great retail conversation starter,” said Sue, who also lauded the competition as an opportunity to collaborate on a creative activity for her salon.

“A beautiful window display definitely helps sales by attracting passers-by and making them notice what you are selling which can lead to more sales in-salon.” ghdhair.com/au

UPFRONT

HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY LEADERS CLAIM GRADUATING STUDENTS ARE UNEMPLOYABLE The state of the hairdressing industry and particularly its education platforms has been put in the spotlight, with an enlightening article in the Sydney Morning Herald talking to a number of industry leaders to lay bare its flaws.

The article points to governmentfunded education programs, that are expensive to fund and expensive for students, but leave those students as “unemployable” when they emerge from their course. These industry leaders claim that about two-thirds of the 131 hairdressing courses offered nationally should be disbanded.

The industry leaders interviewed, including Maureen Harding, national president of the Hair and Beauty Australia Industry Association (HABA), Sandra Campitelli, chief executive of the

Hairdressing and Beauty Industry Association (HBIA) and Sandy Chong, chief executive of the Australian Hairdressing Council (AHC), pointed the blame at a number of areas. First, the government for funding an overflow of courses, as well as the courses, for rushing students through without the necessary skills, and lastly, at the system itself, for inherently flawed features that allow it to be manipulated.

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“We are excited to have someone as talented, creative, celebrated and qualified as Simone Lee for our global brand ambassador,” said Activance founder, Arthur Chan. “Simone is regarded in the industry as both a hair specialist and celebrity stylist, making her the perfect candidate as brand ambassador for Activance. We believe Simone has the unique blend of creativity and qualifications to introduce our niche line of quality products to an even larger audience.”

A proud Western Australian, Simone is a world renowned creative director of hair and makeup, trichologist and educator. activance.com.au

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UPFRONT

MISS FRANC SYDNEY Miss Franc is a boutique cosmetic clinic in Sydney's Woollahra that specialises in non-surgical facial and skin treatments and an apporach that is unique as its owner.

OWNER FRANCINE ITHIER IS an expert cosmetic nurse who has practiced alongside some of Australia’s top plastic surgeons - but what sets her apart is an understated, lessis-more approach.

While many in the cosmetic industry may claim a similar philosophy, with Francine, the proof is in the people she consults - she’s got a five star rating on google reviews and some pretty complimentary testimonials – including five stars on Facebook and a savvy clientele who just want to deal with the one person from entry to exit. There’s no one size fits all approach and she’s obsessed with putting the individual art into her work – a perfectionist some would say.

“People will hear cosmetic physicians say this time and time again: that ‘less is best’ and that they like to enhance the ‘natural you’, but I don’t think many people practice the philosophy they preach,” Francine said.

Too often this can lead to over-the-top results that can leave the patient looking unnatural. To put it simply, she thinks that many injectors “go too far”. “I think doing 22 INSTYLE

more injectables than what is needed to make that added bonus, is a really sad aspect of the industry among some physicians. We should be committed to keeping expectations realistic and always in the best interest of our patients,” she says.

This underlines a fundamental aspect of Francine’s approach to her craft; an innate understanding of how each treatment will work from person to person, each with unique and differing facial aesthetics.

“What concerns me is that some cosmetic injectors aren’t approaching facial aesthetics in a way that will best serve

their patients. Yes, Kylie Jenner’s lips are in - but if you have naturally thin lips and you’re promised to walk out with lips as big as Kylie’s on the same day – you’re being misled and fed false hope,” she says.

In addition to this focus on the differing needs of each individual, Francine’s cosmetics philosophy is one that emphasises injections as just one part of a wider skin treatment and anti-ageing regime.

“I think some injectors miss the art of aesthetics and rejuvenation,” she says. “There definitely needs to be a holistic approach and commitment from the client to aging gracefully.”

“Yes, anti-wrinkle and dermal fillers play a role in this process, but there is a lot that can be done outside of this, such as a customised daily skincare routine, regular cosmeceutical facials, sun protection and diet.”

This means that Miss Franc also offers a range of skincare products to take home after an in-house treatment. Francine’s three favourite products are all from the Swiss skincare company Luzern – notably the Serum Absolut WE3, the Micro-Exfoliant, and the Hydra Enzyme Mask - and are available for purchase at her Woollahra clinic.

“A good client turned friend of mine once said to me ‘I trust and love your work because you get faces - you either have the eye for it or you don’t’.” missfranc.com.au

ONSTAGE

SHOCKING TONI&GUY invited hairdressers, VIP industry guests, and — for the first time — a number of lucky consumers to the Dockside Pavilion at Sydney’s Darling Harbour for Culture Shock - a night of hair, fashion and good times, writes Tam Allenby.

LONG RECOGNISED FOR fusing together commercial and creative, the TONI&GUY of today is a truly global brand, with more than 5000 hairdressers and 475 salons across 48 countries.

First opening in Australia in 1995, they have expanded far beyond their original Darlinghurst salon, and now boast 32 locations countrywide; their 2016 ‘night of nights’ was everything you’d expect from such an industry leader.

The pre-show reception had a similar feel to an entertainment awards night - think champagne flutes and red carpet photoshoots — with guests enjoying the warm evening thanks to the open-air, harbourside location set beneath the Sydney skyline.

Once inside the main hall, it was clear to see that their annual launch would live up to the grand promise of being bigger than ever before.

Inspired by long standing ties with London Fashion Week, the “Culture Shock” collection was shown off on a lengthy catwalk, with thumping beats and a synchronised light show, choreographed dance routines and even a flash mob. Channel Nine host and comedian Cam Knight kept the energy high and the 24 INSTYLE

Katy Reeve

laughs rolling between acts.

During the show, Australian CEO Dennis Langford expanded on the underlying TONI&GUY philosophy or “belief mechanism” to the 500-plus audience. “What we believe in stems from a feeling of certainty. When you feel strongly and passionately about something it becomes your belief and your philosophy,” he told the crowd. “Our inspiration is as hairdressers.

It comes from what we see in art, fashion, street culture, architecture and nature.”

The runway show itself was split into a number of acts; top of the bill was the new Duality collection, with “trends taken from catwalk to client”.

Influence has been taken from the 60s and 70s (with a little bit of 90s sprinkled in for good measure); the collection varies in strength, texture and

shape and has a trend-driven colour palette. The men’s cuts (“designed to accentuate the character of the individual man”) were styled using label.m, and blended classic and modern styles, while the women’s summer/spring collection in collaboration with Wella Professionals saw more beachy, laid back fringes and styles, showcased on appropriately bikini-clad models.

Presented by American Express, Wella Professionals, label. m and Fitness First, the event also had an altruistic aim: to raise funds for two national partner charities, the National Breast Cancer Foundation and Look Good Feel Better — which helps women deal with the

appearance related side effects of cancer treatment.

“This year we wanted to do something different, and help out people less fortunate than ourselves,” Dennis explained to the audience.

“We have 4000 clients a week in Australia, split mostly from 28-48 years of age. Within that, 68 per cent are female, which led to our choice of charities.”

The crowd also heard from a 24-year old survivor of ovarian cancer who had been helped

by Look Good Feel Better. In an emotional speech that brought many to tears, she thanked the charity for “giving me the confidence back to stand in front of 600 people and be sure that I look pretty damn good.”

After the crescendo of the night - when all the models, hair artists and dancers were brought out onto the stage - the party kicked on to nearby bar The Port, where the champagne kept flowing and (as often seems to happen at hair industry events!) the festivities continued long into the night. Make sure you keep an eye out for the 2017 event announcement – we know we will be.

For more information visit toniandguy.com.au

ONSTAGE

EXPOEXPECTATIONS Hair Expo is building on its already iconic brand – bringing its flagship event back to Sydney for 2017 and launching a Pop Up event to appease Victorian patrons.

Guy Tang

HAIR EXPO IS launching a new capsule event to take off from 2017, presenting a smaller-scaled expo event that still exudes Hair Expo’s inimitable energy and offers shopping, stages, celebrity stylists and competitions for attendees.

The new Pop Up event comes with the decision to have Hair Expo alternate between Sydney and Melbourne each year, heading back to Sydney this year and returning to Melbourne in 2018. In the years that Hair Expo isn’t in each state, the Hair Expo Pop Up event will take its place, ensuring both New South Wales and Victoria has a premier hair event each and every year.

With Hair Expo in Sydney for 2017, the first pop up will head to Melbourne, appearing with Beauty Expo

Melbourne (set for March), the new identity of what was previously Salon Melbourne. Therefore, when Hair Expo is in Melbourne, the Hair Expo Pop Up will accompany Sydney’s Beauty Expo Australia, which takes place annually in August.

So to recap – Beauty Expo Melbourne with the all-new Hair Expo Pop Up will take place in 2017 over March 25 to 26 while Hair Expo will be at the ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour, over June 10 to 12. Beauty Expo Australia will return to that same Darling Harbour location over August 26 to 27.

With Hair Expo Pop Up firmly in the diary, the event kicked off 2017 with impressive news, announcing an array of enticing educators as their line-up for the inaugural event. The agenda begins with current Schwarzkopf Professional Hair Expo Awards Men’s Hairdresser/Barber of the Year Uros Mikic and his team, who will fittingly focus on styling for a male clientele.

“I’m going to be looking at inspirational cutting trends for men, focusing on texture – curly hair and length,” Uros said of the Look and Learn, which is complemented by an intimate workshop. “I aim for it to be engaging, powerful, easy to understand, fun, and most importantly to me, salon-friendly – I want this to be easily transferable so that visitors can take what they’ve learnt straight back to the salon.”

Another famous educator, Kobi Bokshish, will take to the classroom, leading a three-stage Look and Learn seminar that explores rule-breaking cutting and styling, inspired by industry legends such as Vidal Sassoon, Trevor Sorbie and Robert Lobetta. Moving from fundamental, classic techniques to more creative but still salon friendly classes (think bold colour, clipper work and asymmetrical styling), the show will end in ‘artistic chaos’ - unleashing the rules of creativity in the name of inspiration.

Caterina Di Biase’s session will centre on contouring – a vital technique in the world of 2017 hairdressing. Caterina will showcase how to cut and colour to suit each client’s face shape, and prove how this technique can reinvigorate your service menu and, with it, your salon profits.

Lastly, Joey Scandizzo and Marie Uva will host a joint off-site session titled A Day in the Life at Joey Scandizzo and UVA Salons, where attendees will learn to transform their clients’ hair in the manner of these two high-profile, celebrity-studded salons.

Beyond the education seminars, the event will showcase part one of the HBIA & Hair Expo National Live Cutting Competitions’ qualifying heats, to be followed by a second qualifying heat in Sydney and final round at Hair Expo. The event will also host a range of stalls filled with the latest innovations in the industry. Of course, Hair Expo will follow three months later, presenting the biggest awards, names and products in Australian hairdressing over the Queen’s Birthday long weekend.

Plenty to look forward to in 2017!

For more information visit hairexpoaustralia.com INSTYLE 25

ONSTAGE

FRENCH FEAT

With 24 salons in Australia – the second largest Franck Provost franchisee city outside of Paris - the momentum for this premium hairdressing brand is building with a profound group of creative stylists awarded for their achievements.

LEADING STYLISTS, SALON owners and managers from the ‘accessible luxury’ salon brand gathered at the fittingly elegant IVY Penthouse on November 19, 2016 to celebrate a successful year and the creative talents that lie within the rapidly growing network, that now reaches more than 750 locations globally.

Above left: Cameron Pine (INSTYLE), Lauren Parkes (Artistic Men's HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR), Raphael Veron right: Franck Provost and Jean-Francois Carre Franck Provost, Adeline Franciere (Artistic Hairdresser of the Year), Raphael Veron (Franck Provost General Manager)

26 INSTYLE

Below right: Tammy Thai (Artistic Apprentice of the Year), Sharon Blain, Raphael Veron.

Franck Provost Beecroft team with Paul Frasca and Virginie Gayssot (Franck Provost Head of training and talent)

With a special visit from Franck Provost himself, the 150 plus strong guest list confi rmed the brand’s headstrong commitment to the industry’s development in Australia – with INSTYLE Editor Cameron Pine, Sharon Blain, Jenny Burns and Sustainable Salons Australia’s Paul Frasca in attendance and as judges for the awards platform. Guests were able to celebrate and take a closer look at the work of each stylist throughout the venue while mingling with industry leaders including L’Oréal PPD General Manager, Arnaud Trevisani.

With a culture like no other, the Franck Provost network attracts young professionals; stylists and franchisees with an appreciation of hair beauty – a company directive that continues to meet the demands of a blonde loving and elegant clientele, baring many similarities to popular trends in Paris.

Timed perfectly with the opening of the brand’s 24th salon in the newly refurbished Warringah Mall and doubling as an end of year celebration for the group, FP salons enjoyed fi ne French champagne and delectable Merivale catering – a true rock star reception for both award winners and all involved.

The uplifting occasion was also particularly significant considering it was the exact week of Franck Provost’s fi rst visit some eight years ago when he arrived for the opening of the fi rst Franck Provost salon in Sydney’s Macquarie Street. Franck admits Sydney is the perfect city for the brand, bearing much resemblance to Paris, “It’s a city I could see myself living in, the people are relaxed with a good sense of style,” Franck said.

Key to the brand’s expansion is fi nding the right franchisee partners to help reach their goal of making Franck Provost Paris the number one premium salon brand in Australia, with a projection of around 50 salons in the country by 2020. A goal that seems easily achievable considering the rapid growth of the brand in the last eight years.

“Our franchisee partners don’t need to be hairdressers, as Mr Provost said, the most important thing throughout the growth of the network has always been, and remains today, to work with people who share the passion for the brand and venture,” Mr Provost said.

Franck Provost’s Australia Master Franchisor Jean-François Carré, General Manager, Raphael Veron and Head of Training and Talent Virginie Gayssot welcomed guests with a quintessentially French celebration – one of both passion and professional relationships.

Hairdresser turned DJ, Franck Provost’s Artistic Team Manager Carolyn Gahan entertained guests long after the awards were over – as one of Sydney’s popular DJ’s, she had the entire room on their feet.

The key take away from the night belies the brand’s growth and that’s the essence of family. Despite its size, it’s still a family run business and notably the Australian franchise is testament to that.

For more information visit franckprovost.com.au

Congratulations to the following winners: Artistic Hairdresser of the Year: Adeline Franciere Artistic Team of the Year: Beecroft Artistic “Coup de Coeur”: Brittany Cristaudo Artistic People’s Choice: Ciara Fagan Artistic Apprentice of the Year: Tammy Thai Artistic Colourist of the Year: Crystal Wood Artistic Men’s Hairdresser of the Year: Lauren Parkes

ONSTAGE

LEFT: Renya Xydis and Travis Balcke

SUPERSONIC SALON Dyson’s new Professional Supersonic Hairdryer has burst onto the market and is making (very, very soft) waves.

ELECTRICAL CONGLOMERATE DYSON made major headlines in 2016 when they announced that their enticing new consumer tool, the Dyson Supersonic Hairdryer, had been developed and was coming to Australia. The Professional version has now been launched into the Australian market, building on a tool that necessitated $94 million, 4 years, 600 prototypes and over 100 engineers to create.

Meet the Dyson Supersonic Professional Hairdryer – a reduction in hairdryer aesthetics and functionality has been developed with the help of internationally recognised stylists and includes changes made specifically for the salon.

Consultancy from famous hairdressing figures included famous names such as Akin Konizi, while ambassadors for 28 INSTYLE

the product include Jen Atkin, Katsuya Kamo and our very own Renya Xydis.

Important features of the professional model include a wider air flow to necessitate fewer brush strokes, magnetic attachments that make for simple adjustments and the dryer’s famous fast drying that is bound to save you extreme amounts of time (and you know what they say about time equalling money). The Dyson

digital motor V9 is on average six times faster than other dryer motors, and uses Air Multiplier technology to speed up the process even further.

Beyond that, the dryer aids your clients’ hair by measuring the temperature every twenty seconds to regulate heat and protect hair from damage.

Significantly for hairdressers who spend most of the day with a dryer in hand, the dryer is engineered with balance in

mind (the motor is in the handle of the dryer instead of the head) and is smaller in order for the tool to feel lighter. The tool is also famously quiet, meaning no more constant loud dryer noise and no more nodding politely when you can’t hear your clients.

For clumsy hairdressers (it’s ok, we won’t judge), the premium tool will be fine in – or out – of your hands. The developers dropped the tool over 1783 times, twisted the cable over 310,000 times and pushed the buttons more than 52,000 times, ensuring the product can withstand it all. The product has been tested at extreme temperatures, exposed to 37 grams of dust and lint and put under the force of 155 kilograms.

Basically, no amount of klutz or salon havoc will bring it down.

The professional tool was launched in Sydney at an exclusive event late last year. Situated at a studio in Alexandria, salon owners were given insight into the technology, while Renya and co-host Travis Balcke presented a series of look and learns to demonstrate its abilities.

“As Creative Partner and Ambassador for the new Dyson Supersonic Professional hair dryer, I’m hooked on this game-changing styling tool,” Renya enthused. “It’s the Porsche of hair dryers and is a true game changer. The genius technology that has gone into creating this brilliant hair dryer is what makes it stand out – it’s revolutionary and it’s the only hair dryer I use in my salons and on my clientele.”

For more information visit www.dyson.com.au

10 - 12 JUNE 2017

HAIR: FR ANK APOSTOLOPOULOS

PHOTOGR APHER: ANDREW O’TOOLE

MAKE UP: K YLIE O’TOOLE

ICC SYDNEY, DARLING HARBOUR

R E T U R N I N G

DARLING I N

T O

HARBOUR 2 0 1 7

T I C K E TS O N S A L E N O W AT W W W. H A I R E X P OA U ST R A L I A . C O M

ONSTAGE

SECRET’S OUT To put it bluntly: if you weren’t there, you missed out. Ssh! is quickly becoming one of the must-see events on the Australian hairdressing event calendar, and in 2016, attracted some of the industry’s edgiest and most avant-garde artists to paint their vision on what is effectively a blank canvas, writes Tam Allenby.

30 INSTYLE

Mazella&Palmer

ONSTAGE

1

PHOTO CREDIT: A’ODISHO HAROON

1. Peter Gray

2. SACO HELD LATE LAST year at the 3. Eros Creative Seymour Centre in Chippendale, Team 4. Mazella the third edition of this creative &Palmer maelstrom took the enthralled audience on a multimedia, technicolour journey, and into 2 the minds of some of the industry’s most visionary talents.

Starting with a heartfelt thank you to the sponsors who make events like Ssh! possible (stepping up for 2016 were Schwarzkopf Professional, De Lorenzo, ghd, Sebastian, evo, the Australian Hairdressing Council, é SALON, Togninis and Hair Aid), Emiliano Vitale and Benni Tognini prepared the 400plus crowd for a boundary-pushing evening and promised that this year’s instalment would be bigger and more innovative than ever.

And they certainly lived up to their promise. Kicking off the proceedings were UK cutting heroes Mazella&Palmer, who introduced their theme in a slickly produced video edit, their models dressed 4 as antique dolls, clowns and geishas.

Behind a silhouette, the pair then displayed Aussie twist. In the prerecorded segments their philosophy of classically polished yet (presumably filmed during rehearsals), current haircuts on two live models, with the ‘lucky’ contestants found themselves bold colouring and extreme fringes the consuming far more than the usual swig order of the day. of beer; inside the cups lay such pleasures Richard Kavanagh implored the as full teaspoonfuls of Vegemite, a dry audience to “imagine a world where Weetbix, or a whole raw onion! hairdressers don’t exist”, a “mad world” The legend Robert Lobetta and Team where a 1985-esque “Authority” develop Lobetta reinvigorated the crowd after haircuts in a lab. In this world, the people intermission, and reminded us all that eventually became sick of cookie cutter beauty is not always found in perfection, styles; they wanted to be themselves, but often as a product of “daring, wit and rejected the cuts, and the factory closed madness”. As you’d expect from the hair down. But a few of the scientists stayed on guru (and the trio of Alex, Jamie and Kobi alone, where their ideas germinated. that carried his name), their “house of Arguably the most ‘out-there’ feature of the asylum” set had models clad in high-fashion night came from the Taiwanese Eros Creative couture, a stark black-and-white aesthetic; team. Over pulsating beats, and in a truly cutting-edge cuts, colours and hairpieces. experimental performance that pushed the SACO, led by Richard Ashforth, presented boundaries far beyond hair, the three amigos a sleek and minimalist display, with unveiled and pieced together a collection of spotlights illuminating the artists as they sci-fi inspired costume designs bringing to showed off their impeccable technique and mind Alien, Predator and Avatar. creative vision on a number of live-models.

Between sets, emcee Jules Tognini kept It all reached a crescendo with Peter the energy high and the crowd entertained, Gray. From behind a masked silhouette introducing us to all of the featured artists emerged a petite model with a headpiece with a down-to-earth, banter-heavy at least double her size who had to be game of beer pong – with a distinctly

3

physically helped and guided onto the stage. At first glance the piece resembled a roll of yarn; individual strands were soon rolled out to audience members, and eventually the model was raised off the floor and suspended high above us by white dreadlocks. Assisting Peter Gray in the display were other top names including Sharon Blain, Julie Hagney and Jayne Wild.

His message also went beyond the world of hair, urging the crowd to help stop human trafficking.

In a first for Ssh!, both the Sunday night show and the Monday masterclass were live-streamed around the globe on liveED, providing the opportunity for hairdressers everywhere to share in the creative wisdom that was on display.

In the words of Robert Lobetta, Ssh! really is “one of those special events that lets us think beyond anything we’ve ever done before”. Emiliano’s parting message was one of inspiration: “This started with a thought, and we want you to take one thing away. If you have an idea, see it through…”

We can only guess what Ssh! 2017 will have in store.

INSTYLE 31

ONSTAGE

ELVIS™ and ELVIS PRESLEY™ are trademarks of ABG EPE IP LLC Rights of Publicity and Persona Rights: Elvis Presley Enterprises, LLC © 2016 ABG EPE IP LLC elvis.com

THE CREW KING

American Crew once again showed their support for Elvis Presley, setting up a stand at the annual Parkes Elvis Presley Festival, showing off the brand’s Elvis-inspired products and proving that, when it comes to men’s style, there is only one classic muse.

AMERICAN CREW CONTINUED their long-form homage to the king of rock and roll, supporting a rural event centred on Elvis Presley. The annual Elvis Presley festival took place in Parkes, New South Wales, with a bold, four-day event that paid tribute to the Elvis look, sound and attitude – yes, dressing up was essential.

American Crew’s participation in the festival follows the men’s grooming brand’s Elvis-inspired range which launched last year.

The range offers six classic American Crew styling products, made with custom designed labels showcasing the king himself.

Products include Fiber, Pomade, Forming Cream, Grooming Cream, Molding Clay and Defi ning Paste, with each product featuring a respective Elvis personality - one of the rhinestoneclad's multiple and still resounding style identities.

“Men around the world owe a debt to Elvis Presley,” American Crew Founder, David Raccuglia said of the range. “He showed us that it’s not just what you have to say, but how you say it. He made 32 INSTYLE

success and change seem effortless, and used his voice and looks to make a statement to the world. Elvis is ‘the original cool’ and American Crew wants every guy out there to know that each of us has the power to defi ne ourselves and make a difference.”

At the festival, the brand had a bespoke trade stand showcasing the line - a unique execution met with enthusiasm from fellow Elvis-lovin' attendees who showed particular interest in the American Crew limited edition Elvis packs.

The festival celebrated its 25th year with a festive Viva Las Vegas theme, attracting over 25,000 people for the huge event. American Crew fit in seamlessly with their commitment to classic cool and role in the resurgence of polished men’s barbering.

The festival heads a very busy agenda for American Crew over 2017, with the local All Star Challenge taking place in Melbourne in March and dynamic product set to shake.

For more information visit americancrew.com

ONSTAGE

COLOUR YOUR WAY TO

ITALY Paul Mitchell’s second annual colour competition could land you with a plane ticket and a myriad of accolades.

Hair by 2016 Australian finalists Carly Johnson (left) and Lauren Harris (right)

WE PROMISE WE will tell you how you can enter the 2017 version of Paul Mitchell’s Colour Outside the Lines competition (really, you can just glance sideways for all the details), but we feel we’d be burying the lead if we didn’t start by outlining the outstanding prizes on offer if you are successful in this enticing colour competition.

A grand prize trophy, allexpense paid trip to the Paul Mitchell Global Gathering in Sardinia, Italy (that includes airfare and accommodation), editorial exposure, participation 34 INSTYLE

in Paul Mitchell campaigns, social media coverage, products kits and more are all up for grabs for the international winner – so back yourself and enter! Beyond that impressive haul, two international finalists will win a certificate, colour kit, Neuro styling iron and online feature among other prizes.

Locally, the Australian first prize winner will be awarded a bevy of different Paul Mitchell product kits and an online feature, and the top two Aussie finalists will also receive an esteemed certificate as well as a style kit and brush collection so many opportunities to walk away with a win!

To enter you must analyse the competition’s unique mood board – based on the vivid colour spectrums that can be found in different

environments, from sunsets to city lights. From there, choose your inspiration source and plan your technique to be detailed in your submission.

You must secure all rights from your model, makeup artist, stylist and photographer (to be filled in within your submission) and then take a head and shoulders images of your model to be displayed in full colour and at a minimum 3mb in size. You can submit your completed form via email or with file sharing platforms, or otherwise via post. The clock is ticking, as deadlines officially close on March 15.

Blind judging will commence after the due date, based solely on each entrant’s individual vision. 70 per cent of the judging will be based on colour technique and choice, and how the hair colour complements the cut and style, while 30 per cent will survey the entrant’s

creativity and interpretation of the aesthetic.

Last year, in the competition’s inaugural outing, Daniel Fortino of Hennesy Lane took home the Australian title by taking his inspiration from the multifaceted hues in oil spilling over concrete, while Carly Johnson, also of Hennesy Lane, won second place as motivated by the northern lights of Alaska (think pinks and golds), and Kawsa’s Lauren Harris won bronze with edible-themed hues. Clearly your inspiration can take many forms and ultimately find success if it is executed well and remains true to your aesthetic.

We have every faith in our Australian colourists being the ones to take home this year’s global accolades – good luck!

For more information and to download the entry form visit paulmitchellaus.com.au/ colour-outside-the-lines

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ONSTAGE

GALLERY of STYLE

Shu Uemura’s MUSE IMAGE Awards have been reincarnated as the Gallery of Style competition, offering greater industry amplification, but keeping the commitment to artistic development at the competition’s centre.

2016 MUSE IMAGE finalists - Jacky Chan, Bridget Gay, Danny Puopolo, Cara Mio Robinson and Brett Albury

36 INSTYLE

THE MUSE IMAGE Awards, Shu Uemura’s successful brand competition, has had a competition makeover, reinventing itself as all the allnew Gallery of Style Awards.

Most importantly, this new forum is welcoming your applications – preparation starts now.

The Gallery of Style competition celebrates the exceptional creativity and craftsmanship in the Australian hair industry, providing a platform for hairdressers at every level. The goal is to push yourself artistically, and create your own work of hair art. The competition aims to recognise

and develop these creative talents within the expansive Shu Uemura community, allowing their work to reach international heights and become celebrated around the globe.

Participants are tasked with creating one hair look, utilising the brand’s famous product ranges, and interpreting this year’s theme, to be announced in late February, with entries to close on April 20th. From there, five finalists will be short-listed in May, and they will take part in an all-expenses-paid Gallery of Style photoshoot to recreate their photographic entry. A judging panel of consumer and trade journalists, industry professionals and hairdressing leaders will then decide the 2017 winner, to be revealed at an event later in the year.

The main changes to 2016’s inaugural brand competition will be in amplification, giving the winner an even greater presence in both online and offline publications.

Last year, Danny Puopolo of Rakis on Collins was awarded the main prize for his skilful interpretation of the Tokyo Vibe theme. His experiences as the competition’s winner, including a multi-page spread in INSTYLE magazine, proved pivotal to the development of his career.

“It’s so rewarding and exciting to put your work out there for the industry to see and for it to be received so positively by the community,” Danny said at the time.

“The whole experience has been terrific and winning this award means the world to me.

It’s testament to all the time, energy and effort I’ve put into my work these past few years.

These types of competitions keep me motivated and inspired to keep going,” he continued.

Those opportunities await any other ambitious, talented and creatively-minded hairdressers looking to make their name in the global hairdressing landscape. Keep an ear out for more details, and start planning out your winner’s speech.

For more information visit shuuemuraartofhair.com.au

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PROFILE

Shooting HOOPS

Hoopla Salon enjoyed a stellar 2016 and was the deserving winner of the De Lorenzo ASPYA Salon of the Year. We caught up with owner and operator Tynne Saunders to chat about her successful rise through the industry, and to find out more about the buzzworthy Melbourne salon.

One thing is for certain: 2017 is set to be a big one for Tynne and the team at Hoopla, writes Tam Allenby.

O

n bustling Sydney Road in Brunswick, wedged between cafes, pubs, restaurants and op-shops, sits one of Australia’s upand-coming salons. Taking home the top honour at the De Lorenzo ASPYA Awards on the Gold Coast last year was a significant milestone and achievement for the team at Hoopla – especially when you consider that they only opened in 2012.

It’s the shared aspect of the award that Tynne is especially proud of. “We worked really hard on our submission and had our fingers crossed. It was definitely a team effort,” she says. “I worked on it mainly with our coordinator Kara, and my husband is a designer so he did the ‘look’ which was nice — but all the actual content you get from your team because they’re the ones on the ground doing all the work!”

It is also the product of a long and dedicated journey for Tynne that started in a busy local salon in her hometown of Ballarat in regional Victoria. “It was called Exterior Motive. It was a salon in a country town, but it was amazing,” she reflects. “We had a team of 20 and we used to do a lot of shows. We did many HBIA competitions and used to win a lot of awards and just come up from the country and slam everyone, it was really fun.”

Later on, Tynne moved to Melbourne, and started teaching at the Headmasters Academy before spending some time in London, where she continued teaching and “working in a cool little salon in Shoreditch” in the East End. Soon enough, she returned home to Australia and opened Hoopla. Her reflections on this period will ring true with anyone who has taken the 38 INSTYLE

Tynne Saunders

and coffee. By the end, we say they’re Hooplafied!”

This attention to detail has resulted in a loyal clientele.

And as per the area, Hoopla attracts some youthful and ‘out there’ customers. “They’re outrageous,” Tynne laughs. “Our clients are always up for a change.

Whenever somebody sits in our chair they never have the same thing, it’s always an extreme makeover.” plunge and opened a place of their own.

Hoopla is also a member of Sustainable “I’d been educating for about four years before opening the salon so I didn’t actually Salons Australia and is AHC Salon Select Gold Accredited, reflecting their ecohave a clientele. So I basically opened the friendly, cruelty-free ethos. “When opening salon without any staff and without any the business and thinking about how I clients. It was pretty hard,” she says. “I did wanted it to be, that was one of the main everything. I was on the floor full-time and drivers — to be environmentally friendly,” doing all my own books and marketing. I Tynne explains. “I would never stock any did absolutely everything because there product that was tested on an animal, was obviously no-one else to do it.” and that’s why we love De Lorenzo so Her hard work paid off, and now Hoopla much because we know that everything is has a dedicated staff of twelve. In addition ethically sourced. to the Salon of the Year “We do have a lot of Award, Tynne was also clients that are vegetarian the 2015 winner of the De or vegan and they know Lorenzo Nova Colourist, that they can come in and but since falling pregnant not have to worry about with a now seven-month that. There’s nothing in our old baby, spends most products that was tested on of her time these days an animal that they might training the team as part not know about.” of the ‘Hooplets’ program.

TYNNE SAUNDERS Looking ahead, Hoopla “Any time we have a is outgrowing their little new senior join us, we spot. When she bought it, Tynne thought completely train them. It usually takes the salon was huge, but now needs about a month to teach them the way we do something “at least three times as big”. things at the salon. We’ll do a full cutting They’ll always stay in Brunswick but they program and full colour program - we also don’t necessarily need to be on the main go heavily into consultation. We cover how road anymore, and are considering moving to handle different types of clients, what to to a warehouse-style space. Keep an eye on do in the case of a client complaint – every their movements – Hoopla are sure to be single way that you could look at it." shaking it up for some time to come.

“We also go through our procedures, down to how we gown a client, head Visit www.hooplasalon.com.au or check massage, how we greet them, making tea out @hooplasalon on Instagram

“It’s not rare for us to completely change someone else’s colour or cut”

PROFILE

ensure convenience, while creating more privacy for clients.

This is especially true due to its upstairs setting and intimate, apartment feel.

“It’s like a loft apartment, really its quite open, its spacious, and then we wanted to also have natural products, knowing the way that the world is going and because we live our life at home like that,” said Salon Co-Owner Grant Burling, who co-owns the space with Kirby Manion. “We needed to give clients a reason to come to us as well and a reason to stay - not only by offering great haircuts and colours, but by going for a natural approach.”

Enter Natulique, as introduced to the salon by local distributor Mel Boag. It is now the brand’s exclusive colour product partner and major retail range and one that works specifically with the salon’s organic ethos.

The products complement a range of premium cut and colour services, kept in line with the latest trends, but offering looks that range far beyond them. The diverse clientele is specific to each of the five individual freelancers.

“Every stylist attracts a different sort of clientele, but generally we only employ people with over five years experience,” Grant said. “We like to make sure that they have been in the industry for a while and they know what they are doing.”

This results in a professional environment that extends to premium customer service, as each freelancer caters to their client from the beginning to the end of the appointment.

“We only book one client at a time so our whole attention is on that person,” Grant shared.

“All our staff meet and greet their client, sit them down, offer them the refreshment menu, make their coffee, shampoo their hair and rinse their colour. We’re keeping out of the

“Photographers love it here because its like a big light box for them”

Feels Like Home Climb the stairs to Launceston’s The Loft and transport yourself to your very own New York dream, writes Shannon Gaitz.

S

itting at The Loft you may feel like you’ve been transported to a New York City apartment, with bright lights, modern finishes and an intimate feel that would allow you to feel at home even in the city that never sleeps.

You’re actually sitting worlds away, at Australia’s best kept secret, Launceston, Tasmania.

The Loft combines an important

mix of creative business ideas, a penchant for privacy and that personalised touch.

The four and a half yearspace works on a freelancer model, with every person who rents a chair bringing their own important talents (and clients) to the brand. Built on the first floor of a recently reconstructed warehouse building, the salon is set on the fringe of the CBD, enough to

GRANT BURLING.

business where there are five people working on one client.”

Grant’s 25 year salon career led him through Tasmania, to Melbourne, Barcelona and London (not to mention a stint as a cruise ship stylist), where he worked with big-name stylists and salons. Grant’s understanding of global salons large and small gave him the unique know-how to craft the exact salon he wanted – and his travels allowed him to make it feel intimate and international all at once.

“The lighting is really important as I have worked in salons before where there are spotlights right over the client’s head, which give more shadow lines and make every colour look red,” Grant revealed. “We have our lighting offset so no client actually sits directly under a light. At each end of the salon is a window, so we have all the morning sun on one side and all the afternoon sun on the other.”

“The main salon work bench is in the middle that way the sun is not directly over the client,” he continued. “It’s great for weddings - photographers love it here because it’s like a big light box for them!”

The long, centred main table, sophisticated black chairs, calming white and pale blue walls and modern wooden floors finish the main space, while a small private section off to the side continues The Loft’s preoccupation with privacy.

Formed through travels around the world (and the seas), The Loft can’t be pinned down by postcode. A truly global space with a focus on natural hair, head down south to understand it for yourself.

For more information visit theloftsalontasmania.com INSTYLE 39

PROFILE

Loop de loop

The trendy suburb of Paddington in Sydney’s inner east is home to a number of the city’s top salons, and recently revamped and renamed Loop Hair is the new kid on the block, writes Tam Allenby.

L

Amy McCabe

oop Hair Owner Amy McCabe has years of experience as a hairdresser and stylist, and after years spent plying her trade either abroad or in other major Australian cities, has returned home to open a space of her own.

40 INSTYLE

Until recently, the sunny twostory terrace just off buzzing Oxford Street was home to charismatic industry veteran Sam Overton’s salon. After two years, Sam was looking to move on to other things just as Amy was on the search for her own space. She started out renting a chair in June last year, and just 12 months later, bought the salon herself.

The name has changed, but the homely feel remains. While Amy is still in the process of renovating the breezy, floorboarded room, a lick of paint here and a furniture revamp there have turned the salon into somewhere that almost feels like one of your (trendy) friend’s houses. Clients might even get the chance to meet her new puppy, Hendrix.

Amy’s hairdressing journey began in her hometown of Sydney, so it’s fitting that she

landed back here and started putting down roots at Loop.

“From a young age I knew I was going to be a hairdresser,” she reflects. “I started out at a little boutique salon in the lower north shore, which was actually the best place to start my apprenticeship because I received a wide variety of skills there and lots of education.”

Heading abroad for two years to London, where she worked at award-winning HeadMasters as part of their artistic team for shows and shoots, she came back to Australia and found work in Perth at Circles of Subiaco.

Though her original dream was to travel the world as a session stylist, Amy was inspired by the owner of Circles, Sharlene Lee, to open her own salon.

Further building her experience at Heading Out in Melbourne, she returned to Sydney and started renting a chair from Sam. “I wasn’t interested in stealing somebody else’s clients -- I wanted to build my own so that then they could follow me when I had a shop. I just didn’t see the point working for somebody else for a year, building that all up and still ending up with no clients,” she says.

“So I did rent-a-chair starting with three days. When I first started – I hadn’t lived in Sydney for nine years – I didn’t have one client, so there was a lot of standing around in the beginning, waiting and hoping that someone would walk in.”

Using social media and a rewards program for clients who recommended their friends, her client base slowly began to build. Th is meant Amy had a solid foundation of clients already flowing in when she bought the salon, and since then, word has spread around the local area.

“Most of my clients are word of mouth, friends telling friends. I had a girl in her early-twenties and she has a very big group of friends and

recommended them all. I have people coming from Mosman as well, and all over the Eastern Suburbs too.”

With Amy currently running Loop as a one-woman show, her work both online and off can be all-consuming.

“I feel like its a whole other job! It’s actually exhausting: Instagram, Facebook, making sure I post... The difficulty at the moment, because I don’t have any staff, is trying to maintain a presence on social media as well as work,” she says. “I’m here five or six days a week.

Learning to switch off is hard – my boyfriend has banned me from my phone after 10:30!”

Nonetheless, Amy seems to be loving life as a smallbusiness owner so far. “It feels great [to open my own place]. Just being your own boss is amazing and watching something that you’ve worked on grow and just get bigger and bigger is really rewarding.”

And she’s not slowing down.

There are big plans to expand to the other rooms in the terrace, hoping to create a ‘one stop shop’ with a makeup artist, a nail artist, and a garden where clients can chill out and enjoy a glass of wine while they’re processing.

Currently using and stocking ID Hair Colour, R+CO, label. m and Showpony Hair Extensions, she also plans to add bigger luxury brands further down the track, once the salon is fully kitted out and she has a full roster of staff working alongside her.

At the end of the day, Amy just loves being a hairdresser.

“I just like making people feel good about themselves,” she says. “Doing the transformation and seeing the change in how people feel about themselves and how they portray themselves is pretty amazing. I also just love the industry and getting together with other hairdressers, exchanging ideas and creating things. I think its a really versatile industry.”

Visit www.loophairsalon.com

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INFEATURE

This page; Ham Yard Hotel

London’s most luxe Unassuming yet unashamedly bold, London’s Firmdale hotels are a home away from home – mastering luxury without the lacklustre, writes Cameron Pine.

D

iscovering a home away from home in jam-packed central London is no easy feat.

Where do you find a place where quality materials meet cosy comforts and a design direction that leaves no two rooms alike? Finally a hotel group has responded with personality and continues to celebrate the meaning of travel The two hotels in reference here are a mere five minute walk away from each other - the Soho Hotel – quintessentially every part the buzzing hotspot, and the Ham Yard Hotel - boutique yet with a unique boldness.

The Soho Hotel retains its claim as Soho’s first full service luxury hotel and as always Kit Kemp interiors and room proportions are ready to salivate over, offset by floor to ceiling windows that can be opened to let the outside in. It’s not really a hotel at all.

Beating the best yet again, Firmdale opened the Ham Yard as its eighth London property in 2014. Striking a balance between an urban village feel and

42 INSTYLE

INFEATURE

Below; Soho hotel suite

a metropolitan oasis, the hotel's unique location and thoroughfare opened up Denman Street to the public for the first time since the 1960s.

Kit Kemp designed, like every Firmdale property – the hotels 91 individually designed bedrooms and suites are accompanied by 24 residential apartments.

Ever dreamt of staying at Firmdale for longer than just a few nights here and there? The hotel has been designed for just that, longer stays that is, or why not forever?

Beneath the hotel's lobby what’s not to like about Firmdale’s first Soholistic spa? An ultra luxurious journey with a fully equipped gym adjacent, including a hypoxic chamber for altitude training.

A carrara marbled clad steam room, Kit Kemp amenities and even the lavender body wash will send you in a spin. The Hamptons Beach house meets New York chic vibe dishes an experience that you'll want to spend more than just a few hours in. The ultimate jetlag cure or city escape – go for a full body massage from one of the best massage therapists you’ve ever seen. My Portuguese therapist mastered intuition, mindfulness and strength for one of the most customized massages I’ve ever had. It’s the way the interiors are intertwined that really allow the hotel to breathe life into this handcrafted, custom designed feel - far more significant than large hotels where everywhere you turn you just see them massaging their own bottom line. There are almost no real 'dead ends' everywhere leads to something and a point of difference - ribbed glass and alabaster chandeliers (custom designed in India) – a restaurant, a library and an extra personal touch added by a neon silk thread installation hanging above the reception desk by recent RCA graduate Hermione Sky O’Hea, all build new levels of visual stimulation. The framed

fabrics throughout the hotel bedrooms are Australian designed too – by Artist Shilo Engelbrecht. Kit Kemp’s own range of wallpapers are smattered within and as you'd expect range from 50s French to British Homestead – it’s a combination you won't see anywhere.

Although the hotel has a quintessentially British feel for which her innovative and exciting mix of colour prevails through texture and tenacity – this hotel has one of the most sumptuous drawing rooms of all Firmdale Hotels and should come with a warning that you'll completely lose track of time. The points of difference go on and on – there’s a 190 seat state of the art theatre, several spacious private dining and event rooms and an original 1950s bowling alley imported from Texas, complete with bar, lounge and dancefloor.

Peering over the balcony to the bar you could be forgiven for thinking you were in central America – yet still in the heart of London’s most exciting precinct. If outdoors is more your thing there is a rooftop garden with sweeping views across the skyline.

It’s no wonder the Ham Yard is Tim and Kit Kemp’s largest and most daring project to date.

“Everything is on a much larger scale and comfort is always key.” Kit Kemp said.

The bedheads behind the ultra luxurious King size beds are larger than life and add further warmth and tactility. “I always try to make it comfortable to watch the television from the bed or on a comfortable chair. Every single room has a good reading light by a comfortable chair,” Kit said.

So as much as you’ll be blown away by this hotel you have to stay at next time you’re in London, you’ll rest well knowing that the joys of luxury are often in the simple things. Nailed it. www.hamyardhotel.com www.sohohotel.com

Ham Yard Hotel

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INSTYLE 43

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INSTYLE 45

INFEATURE

Lisbon leader

When gracing the epicenter of Portuguese style in Lisbon – it was only fitting to spend some one on one time with L’Oreal Professionnel Portugal Artistic Director, Arnauld Jambart, writes Cameron Pine.

E

very bit the charismatic and charming hairdresser, Arnauld combines French sophistication with the openmindedness of Portuguese culture to make a difference to everyone he presents to.

“Our job is to work with the hands, but communication is very important with the hands.

In hairdressing the two are essential.”

Arnauld trained in Lille, France from 1985 and in just three years was soon promoted as Artistic Director and began working backstage at fashion shows. In 1998 he moved to Paris and became the Director of Training after two years – his skill with teaching and a powerful way to communicate clearly became evident.

In 2009 Arnaud opened his own salon, Nuance Fr in Guimaraes and has been part of the L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist team since 2012.

Taking influence from not just catwalks, Arnauld believes that as a hairdresser, constant research from around the world and a variety of sources, including watching other hairdressers is essential. He draws inspiration to inspire 46 INSTYLE

others mostly from Art, Architecture and Design, but from everything around him.

“When I walk the streets I love to notice everything – including people’s expressions.”

“I learnt about shape and everything from my training with Vidal Sassoon – add some expression and you have the true art of hairdressing,” Arnauld said.

Car structures even inspire him but one of his favourite things to do also is watch shows from other hairdressers.

“I don’t have a standard style or aesthetic. I like the glamour of Chanel but also the creativity and boldness of working with John Galliano,” Arnauld said.

“Wherever the stage is I feel at home. I like to be on stage because it’s where I express my heart to clients and other hairdressers. I am very passionate about the profession of hairdressing,” Arnauld said.

Since being based in Portugal, Arnauld opened a salon in the North of Portugal.

A classy oasis that has been named, ‘the prettiest salon in Portugal’. Most of the work he does is within the salon and Portugal, but as L’Oréal Professionnel has discovered, leveraging his talents on a

“Today the hairstyle comes from the street more than anything.”

ARNAULD JAMBART

global stage is highly effective for any hairdresser.

Having been the Artistic Director in numerous places and countries, including Franck Provost salons in Paris for three years, his approach is truly global – and no matter the language, he believes his approach is universal.

Arnauld decided to call Portugal home after spending the majority of his life in France, because it’s the country he

met his beautiful wife, also a hairdresser who works in their salon. It’s the mix of salon work and travelling the world and talking to other hairdressers that continues the drive for the craft, Arnauld believes.

“I also love the opportunities I’m having at the moment because they are helping me to start my development of more salons,” Arnauld said.

“I like to travel a lot for holidays and for work and one thing I’d like to change is the way schools teach. To show them how to give hairdressers the right type of education, one that combines both vision and technique with inspiration,” Arnauld said.

Looking up to other hairdressers is testament to how humble this man really is – he loves the work and creativity of Bertram K, one of Austria and now the world’s finest. “He’s simple and effective and I share the same values. I feel connected to him,” Arnauld said.

The winning hairdressing formula? Arnauld doesn’t believe that it exists. No single approach is thought of when he attacks his craft, “Just like there are so many products – not one product is best and does everything you want.

“It’s all part and parcel of customizing your look and personalizing your approach.”

People often say that Arnauld is one of the most calm and quiet yet strong minded hairdressers they’ve met and praise him for his professional manner always.

“There are so many different types of people and so many trends today – everyone can do something that’s ‘on-trend’," he said.

Using streetwear to communicate with the client, Arnauld said is one of the best ways to promote the skill of transformation.

“Today the hairstyle comes from the street more than anything.”

“It’s the same on the stage, experiment and go with the gut for the best impact. That’s hairdressing.”

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INFEATURE

Industry Island

H

Attendees of Cosmoprof Asia 2016 trekked back and forth between the event’s two crossisland locations – amassing an understanding of the state of global beauty, and Hong Kong as a whole, writes Shannon Gaitz

ong Kong is a city that spans across islands and this year, for the first time, its premier beauty expo Cosmoprof Asia, did the same. Marketed with a ‘One Fair, Two Venues’ motto, the Expo, which was held at the AsiaWorld-Expo (adjacent to the city’s airport on Lantau Island) and the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (located in the city’s CBD overlooking the famous Victoria Harbour) – the event attracted over 2600 exhibitors and 78,000 visitors for a five-day networking and sales event not defined by borders.

For the many international visitors, Cosmoprof Asia started the second they stepped off the plane, with signs pointing them to the Asia World-Expo, which showcased the production side of the beauty industry with the latest innovations in packaging, machinery and materials.

Moving further into the city, the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre turned its attention to finished products, showcasing the latest in hair and beauty, nails and spa. The centre sits on the harbour in Wan Chai acting as a pinnacle building in the city’s award-winning nightly light show when viewed from cross-harbour Kowloon. Utilising both cross-city venues, the expo captured Hong Kong’s diverse culture, allowing visitors to experience the territory from all angles.

Sections in the expansive five-story Convention and Exhibition Centre were delineated into Hair Salon, Cosmetics, Beauty Salon and Nails and Accessories, giving each space its singular, professional focus.

50 INSTYLE

Among the aisles, major trends emerged in every sector – with the latest technologies including straightening hair brushes, portable straightening irons and other innovative pieces of furniture and electrical tools. Meanwhile the ‘discover trends’ sector centred on the burgeoning men’s and organic hair and beauty. Beyond the products, more than 30 education session and seminars from speakers hailing from all around the world provided valuable insights for attendees.

However most importantly, the event presented the international hair and beauty industry as a bona fide force, acting as the epicentre of a beauty community that continues to cross borders and expand.

For example, large signs bearing differing country names signalled every door within the multi-story Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre with each industry section further subdivided by country and region.

The expo’s emphasis on global beauty is understandable when looking at the international numbers that congregated at the expo - 78,818 trade visitors from 129 countries and regions (representing a 21 per cent increase over 2015), and 24 national and group pavilions with stands including those of Australia, Belgium, Brazil, California, China, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, UK and USA with inaugural pavilions from Bulgaria and Latvia.

Exhibitor numbers increased to 2698 brands from 49 different countries and regions, an increase of 650 from last year. Within this considerable international focus, Japan was named the country of honour and celebrated with a cocktail reception and makeup show by famous Japanese makeup artist Go Tanabe, to highlight Japan Beauty Week.

UBM Asia executive vice president Michael Duck said the expos’s increase in exhibitor and visitor numbers was a clear sign of its global importance.

“Cosmoprof Asia 2016 has had eight per cent more companies come from Asia, while Korea has a 22 per cent increase, Japan has a 24 per cent increase, exhibitors from the European union are up by four per cent, Australia and the Oceania region have gone up by 27 per cent and mainland China has increased to 858 exhibitors, the biggest exhibitor region in 2016,” he said.

“The show now occupies close to 100,000 square metres of exhibition space in both venues, a 17 per cent increase over last year.”

Not surprisingly then, many Australian countries attended the expo to seek out new products and methods, as well as bring their own products to the attention of distributors in Asia, Europe and the UAE. Travelling Hong Kong’s expansive territories to visit Cosmoprof on each end, and witnessing conversation across global beauty industries inside the expo walls, proved once again why Cosmoprof Asia remains a journey worth taking each year.

We look forward to what's in store for 2017.

For more information visit cosmoprof-asia.com

INTRODUCING

the new

INFEATURE

W

Style Matters

KMS’ new products, brand aesthetic and campaign imagery convey their commitment to the glue that holds 21st century hair, fashion and culture together – pure style.

elcome to the new KMS – an entirely different brand incarnation with updated packaging, new products and an audacious campaign redefining their new era. While the haircare company has confidently reinvented itself aesthetically, what remains the same are KMS’ core values – a commitment to professional hair, product innovations and reaffirming style as a global language.

“2016 saw KMS celebrate 40 years as an industry leader, then known as KMS CALIFORNIA, where the brand first originated,” shared Louse Chamberlain, Marketing Director, KAO. “We now move to a more global inspiration, in keeping with our belief that style is truly

a global language. KMS continues to be inspired by urban street style, from art and culture, to music and film; and from London and Tokyo streets, to the runways of New York and Sydney.”

So what defines this relaunch? First, an aesthetic rebrand, with every product demarcated into categories of start, style and finish, all showcased in different, muted tones. The entire range forgoes the brand’s previously vivid product look with this more subtle colour approach, with the product lines mostly defined by white and grey hues, however the brand’s colourful energy remains in brighter branding across each product. Comprehensive product information, streamlined

branding and complementary muted and colourful tones are used to create the Raw Sophistication aesthetic brief.

“We are excited to introduce a revitalised range, which features refined packaging design and minimal bottle silhouettes,” Louise said. “The process of product prescription has been simplified and more intuitive, based on three key elements start, style and finish.”

The brand’s reinvention extends to a strong editorial campaign, based on the Style Matters brand identity and theme. Taking models from every demographic, the campaign portrays different relationships, showing style’s significance above age, sexuality and gender. The campaign makes sometimes provocative statements about the nature of 21st century relationships, deciding

INFEATURE

“KMS continues to be inspired by urban street style, from art and culture, to music and film; and from London and Tokyo streets, to the runways of New York and Sydney.”

that the minutia that defines these diverse relationships is unimportant – especially compared to the importance of pure style.

KMS define ‘style’ as the way you express yourself, a unifying factor in the melting pot of society, and therefore an intrinsic facet of global culture.

“The new ‘KMS Couples Campaign’, builds on the brand’s unisex DNA and celebrates individuality and diversity,” Louise shared. “Here we are talking about more than ethnic diversity, it is also diversity across age, gender and sexual orientation, strongly championing individual choice and expression.”

The ambitious campaign was created in Berlin, as the KMS Global Style Council embraced the city’s essence and photographed the images at a graffiti-strewn warehouse. Each stylist brought in their own international style influences – London, New York and Seoul were all captured in the campaign vibe - and utilised the most innovative brand products to ensure the global message came to life.

Featuring in the new brand era are two necessary product launches – the all-new Add Volume Liquid Dust and Add Volume

Texture Crème. The Liquid Dust is derived from Berlin’s famous techno club scene, an environment where the city’s hipsters would use hair powders to create big hair that could last until the morning. The new product promises fullness and shape without any mess or residue.

The Texture Crème is the ideal solution for clients with fine hair, centred on London’s iconic street style (and essential in its tumultuous weather). The product’s calcium minerals coat the hair so that it feels thicker and looks fuller, ensuring up to 80 per cent more volume. The product protects hair from humidity and fog, offers heat protection capabilities and provides a lightweight, thickening boost to the body and width of each hair style.

The brand launched these new initiatives at two high-profile industry events. The

preview event hosted beauty media at Sun Studios in Alexandria, showcasing the new imagery, updated products and Alan White led instructional styling videos over lunchtime canapes. The brand then held a night-time party at The Dolphin Hotel in Surry Hills, with an esteemed menu by Monty Koludrovic, a wine list selected by sommelier James Hird and music by Ariane & Mira Boru. Both events showcased the new initiatives – and KMS’ suave core branding – in supreme style.

And it’s that commitment to style in every aspect that rings true to the KMS ethos – no matter how much the brand continues to evolve. From its Californian roots to a global blueprint, KMS’ main message is universal.

For more information please visit kmscalifornia.com INSTYLE 51

INEXCLUSIVE

C

Shock Factor

Richard Ashforth’s high school nickname was Max. He wears Rick Owens and worked in an eighties-centric salon called Reality. A musician, the co-creator of SACO and a Sassoon legend, his story is a charmed one, writes Lauren King.

52 INSTYLE

hatting with Richard Ashforth, you get the vibe he was that quieter, genius-like kid that sniggered at the jocks and intrigued the ladies. A lashing of eyeliner, maybe he smoked at recess and when he got home, he’d play music, read books and create cool shit.

On Sydney soil late 2016 for the inaugural Ssh! event, we had the pleasure of sitting with Mr Ashforth between post-show seminars – 20 years at Sassoon and co-creator of SACO, he’s an inspiring human that chooses his words wisely. Richard is driven and disciplined yet you get the feeling he’d be down for (almost) anything, as his story suggests.

Describing his entry into hairdressing as a ‘happy accident’ Richard enrolled into Art and Art History as the foundation for a fashion degree.

“I wanted a degree in fashion, and for one reason or another, I wanted to carve out a career in music, so I took a gap year before starting University and formed a band (singing and playing guitar). It wasn’t long before Dad implied I’d best get a job and make some money,” said Richard.

As it turned out, one of Richard’s friends slash band mates was a hairdresser.

“I used to love going into his salon -the culture, the girls - it was fashion and creative based.

So I made the decision to pursue hairdressing over University.”

Like most aspiring stylists at the time, Richard moved his way to Sassoon, London where he migrated from the salons and into education – a two-decade stint that saw him work and evolve alongside the greats.

“Manchester in the late eighties, early nineties was ‘the’ city for that particular moment, it had the world’s most happening night club and all the best bands were coming out of Manchester. So naturally, there were loads of amazing people in

INEXCLUSIVE

Left and below: Richard Ashforth on stage at Ssh! 2016.

that salon at that time.”

Just imagine, Tyler Johnston (Schwarzkopf), Peter Gray, Nick Arrojo and Richard Ashforth, all in the one salon, creating together, pushing each other – bigger, busier, brighter - do it.

“It was like the planets aligned to produce this great clutch of very motivated, talented people, so much was happening in terms of the vibe and the culture,” reminisced Richard.

One of life’s true cases of serendipity. Like when high school friends Mick Jagger and Keith Richards bumped into one another on a Londonbound train – later setting the world on fire with a sound and style unlike anything else. Music had new meaning, new soul - jacked up energy.

Just like Sassoon and the late eighties-Manchester team, an energy of influence, dancing, forging new formulas in hair design – pushing perspectives out of their comfort zone.

I asked Richard if he could see that kind of movement in hairdressing ever happening again. And the response was positive.

“I don’t think we won’t see it again. I think cities kind of just ‘happen’ don’t they. They have their moments and then they fade and somewhere else rises to the top. Then 10 years later when they’ve kind of, gestated, if you like, that city rises again.

And I feel that is the same for generations in hairdressing.”

For Richard, the culture of professional hairdressing is different now - more focus on

“Young people are very happy to look like their parents, and parents are desperate to look like their children.”

RICHARD ASHFORTH

independent salons as opposed to hero schools/ brands (TONI&GUY and Sassoon) dictating the trends and the tribes.

This said, Richard and his business partner have done a fine job in the development of salon and education empire, SACO – 11 salons and 8 academies together leading the charge in tailored education. New generation curriculum for today’s creative - Richard Ashforth is a maker of modern mind food.

“Education is really important to me and it was always a part of our business plan.”

“Hairdressers are good at educating themselves, they’re hungry for education, and we’re fortunate that we have that drive for it – we’re blessed to have a business that wants to drive itself forward in that respect,” he says.

At SACO, there is no room for 'teaching by numbers.' Most students arrive with something specific they want to learn and experience – they’ve come to create their own journey – and for Richard, it is SACO’s job to identify this and work accordingly. And so they should.

There is no room for cookie

cutter, me-too stylists and artists in a world where creative is king - the influence of individual has never been so fierce.

“We have headers for all the courses, but it’s just lines, layers and graduation isn’t it? It’s about how you put that together.”

“I believe in educating people so they understand how to create. It’s not about learning how to do haircuts.

I’m not about, ‘here’s 10 haircuts and you can pick one to ten, 7 or 3.’ My idea is that students should understand and engage more closely with the hair and with the person/the client – it’s about suitability,” explains Richard.

A perfect segway into SACO's presentation at Ssh! I-D - a collection dedicated to inspiring identity; the importance of separating yourself, in particular, from one generation to the next. As while high fashion is leading the charge with street casts, shaved heads, the

weird and the wonderful, the world’s larger community is morphing into one - the quest for youth, false attributes and social success a scary (and soulless) one.

“At our post-show Ssh! seminar I presented a story about generations – how the younger person has evolved and the whole idea of separating yourself being a little rebellious and wanting to distance yourself visually from the way your parents are perceived.”

“It’s a coming of age, rite of passage story. It’s about trying to shock and get a reaction, and how that’s dissipating now – it’s disappearing. Young people are very happy to look like their parents, and parents are desperate to look like their children.

The separation is lost and I think that’s really sad,” he said.

As the creator of NOISE – the European underground education scene more like a gig than anything else – Richard is all about the freedom of platforms such as Ssh! and believes their popularity suggests a movement whereby hairdresser’s are taking back their creative control.

Creative control. Something Richard was born with it seems – and more importantly, something he has never let go of.

I asked Richard about his own rite of passage, his own shock factor as a young adult.

“My nickname was Max because I wore makeup and had black rocker hair like Robert Smith from The Cure, that real post-punk, goth-style.”

Seems my earlier prediction was right.

There’s much to learn from Richard Ashforth but if you take anything away, let it be the power of self and vision – don’t let it dissipate, let it surface in all it’s shocking glory, run with it, create freely and lead the masses.

INSTYLE 53

INFEATURE

PROVOST It’s not often a franchise business grows at the rate of Franck Provost – a luxury label with a lead in accessibility. We sat down with the man himself some eight years after he arrived in Australia for the opening of the brand’s first Sydney salon, writes Cameron Pine.

T

“

here’s really not so much difference between Australian and French hairdressing – trends and hair types are similar.

Australian women are beautiful and their hair needs are similar to women in Paris,” Franck Provost said.

From Paris to Sydney’s malls, villages and high streets – it started with just one CBD salon that has now taken on some of our most lucrative suburbs. Owned by Australian franchise owners Jean Francois Carre and Stephane Banasiak, the Macquarie street salon has very much become a pivotal part of the brand with just the right style and stature for the busy CBD location. This awareness has enabled the the luxury label to gain a significant brand voice throughout a difficult Sydney market in less than a decade.

Not only a good fit for the Australian 54 INSTYLE

-gress

market, it seems Sydney – with a huge blonde clientele has been just the right brand alignment for the Parisien powerhouse. “Our brand suits a discerning yet more relaxed way of life – people don’t take themselves too seriously in Australia so it suits,” Franck said.

The Provalliance group is no wallflower, with 750 salons globally across a dozen difference salon brands – each brand has a very clear positioning and addresses every need. You could say that Franck married into hairdressing, his wife, Natacha was a hairdresser and they launched their first salon together more than 40 years ago – a family business that has forever maintained the culture of one.

Natacha no longer works in the salons but has since directed her efforts to charity – to help schooling in African countries and build the Franck Provost brand as one that is as

much about luxury as it is about humanity.

The first salon to open outside of the brand’s homeland was in the Philippines in 1998 – also sparked by a family run hairdressing business – global expansion then continued with the majority of international salons starting to open in the late 1990s. Fast forward to now with 600 salons – one third of salons are still family company owned.

“Our priority is to always promote the hairdresser – professional marketing comes second. We haven’t re-invented the wheel, ultimately our aim is to provide what women need,” Franck shared.

“Along the way we have made many memories and I have loved meeting celebrities, networking and building relationships – becoming a personal friend to Sharon Stone is all part of the rewards of hairdressing,” Franck said.

“On top of the fact that I believe it is an amazing craft in terms of the artistic and creative side, I particularly love the human element, the personal growth and the stories” FRANCK PROVOST

2015 marked a very special year for the brand, with a 40th anniversary and a big show in Paris including a larger than life flash mob at the Palais de Congress in Paris – Franck Provost was genuinely surprised by the whopping 5,000 people in attendance and the 200 working backstage to make it all happen. The video hit Youtube and became a significant part of Parisien culture.

Although the pioneering man behind a global hair brand has only been to Australia twice he admits it is his favourite country outside of France. “It has a great feeling here, I like the vibe and atmosphere and it’s definitely a city I could live. The people are more relaxed and they walk ‘normally’ – not rushing and pushing around like some countries,” Franck said.

It’s no wonder Sydney is also the second home for the brand as the number one city in the world after Paris in terms of the number of salons.

“We keep dreaming and haven’t stopped our passion for more salons and more countries to develop the brand. There are endless possibilities – we are extending our own product range and the ranges we work with all the time,” Franck said.

The craft of hairdressing will always be the core driver of the Franck Provost brand – imploring stylists with creativity and fashion direction remains key and initiatives like the Franck Provost Artistic Awards enable stylists to produce editorial work and compete and celebrate their love of hair. “I find it particularly fulfilling what I saw on Saturday – all the talent and enthusiasm in the room. On top of the fact that I believe it is an amazing craft in terms of the artistic

and creative side, I particularly love the human element, the personal growth and the stories,” Franck said.

The global training methods by Franck Provost are adapted in each country, while packages play a big role in the brand’s identity – bespoke colour and services as well as training that meets the individual needs to each salon’s location and market. Just like each salon brand has its own positioning, there is variation within the franchise group to ensure each franchisee is able to make the most of their surrounding market.

Finding the right partner to grow the brand is not solely a geographical exercise for the franchise – the priority is the right person and the right vision – their ethos nods to partnership moreso than standardized practices. In saying that, the support from a marketing, processes, finance and training point of view offered by the Franck Provost head office is second to none in an Australian franchise and something the directors admit is a constant evolution. The essence of family remains strong with Franck Provost's daughter Gil and son Fabian also still working in the business “There has to be a good connection to have a strong business partnership. Every day we have contact and inquiry about opening a store – in all sorts of places. Just the other day it was Zimbabwe – it’s not always the right candidate but we always answer to everyone

but when it comes to opening a salon it has to be the right fit,” Gil said.

It’s not just in Australia where growth has been significant in recent decades.

Between 1995 to 2008 the salon group went from 25 to 600 company owned salons in France and the family still owns approximately one third of the salons. In 2008 the Provalliance Group purchased the group that is uniquely managed by an inherently family culture, unlike many large salon groups there hasn’t been a lot of change within Franck Provost – the focus for Provalliance Group is mostly that each of their 12 salon brands have a unique position and are uniquely their own in the market.

“If there is no real person with passion behind a business, you cannot do marketing – it’s not necessary. It’s just a catalyst for growth but it won’t create longlasting success,” Gil said.

No doubt we will see Franck Provost back in Australia, he likes it here, he feels happy – he enjoys seeing the enthusiasm and talent of stylists. Just like the heartland of Australian culture itself, further growth for the brand is assured where there’s a constant link to the heartland of the why, the how and the who with.

“It’s an amazing craft. Australia is beautiful and both Sydney and Melbourne has just the right amount of European flair for our brand,” he said.

VENICE BEACH SKATE PARK BY JENNIFER STENGLEIN

STYLE FILE

BIRDHOUSE Giant B Deck www.ocdskate shop.com.au

VANS Old Skoolite Sneakers www.farfetch.com

NEIL BARRETT Slim Fit Jeans www.farfetch.com

IN

Keeping it sweet on the street.

EVO normal persons shampoo and conditioner 1300 437 436 CK BE 1800 812 663

KENZO ONLY Intarsia Socks www.farfetch.com

LIMITED EDITION BAMBOOZY Hawaiian Shirt www.doublerainbouu.com

56 INSTYLE

V76

STYLE FILE

Brightening Shampoo 1300 725 122

LOUIS VUITTON Vintage Luco Bag www.farfetch.com

GUCCI Rubber Slide Sandal www.gucci.com

WITH SLIM The man who made a living photographing wealthy people doing wealthy things, Slim Aarons is synonymous with summer.

LA PERLA Classic Swim Trunks www.farfetch.com

ARAMIS, Adventurer www.myer.com.au

INSTYLE 57

INMANUAL

SOIREE SEASON We chat the salon event and the little (affordable) things to ensure your loyal clients leave feeling like the VIPs they ultimately are.

While it’s clever to host VIP salon events all year around, there’s something about the beginning of the year that makes hosting a crowd all the sweeter. Refreshing cocktails, that longing for the beach babe wave (the products and tools to make it happen) and a little festive spirit has us credit-card at the ready.

But like all things in life, if you’re going to do something, do it well, and if we’re talking VIP styling classes or just a general ‘thank you for your loyalty’ soiree, the finer details go a long way in reassuring your clients they’re making the right choice in you, your team and your business.

We chat to Chief Storyteller and Founder of White Rabbit Projects, Bree Taylor on how to make your event shine superior without an equally exuberant outlay.

58 INSTYLE

TRIBUTE THE TREND:

Bring luxury to your Summer Salon Event with Bree Taylor, ‘Chief Storyteller’ and Founder of White Rabbit Projects

Pay homage to trends but don't be a slave! Small tributes are fine.

A+ AUDIO: Despite your salon’s pace during the day, a tempered playlist that brings everyone down a notch will always give off an instant sense of calm and luxe.

‘TIS THE SEASON: When styling an event space always pay tribute to the season - whether its flowers, scented candles or oils, the season should resonate throughout.

HIS AND HERS: The trick to making a space ooze luxury is striking a balance between feminine and masculine energies. Too many pink roses and fruity scents will turn your male clientele off and a cigar lounge with whisky tasting will do the same to your female clientele.

Neutral is always best!

Whatever the current movements in interior/event styling, don’t forget to include a hint of bling. Think gold, bronze, silver, copper or rose gold.

KISS: Keep it simple. A hero arrival 'moment' makes for a far greater impact than lots of little moments dispersed throughout the space.

JOURNEY: Carry the luxury throughout and don't forget to consider the bathroom. Think a beautiful candle, hand soaps/creams and a bottle of quality perfume.

coconut oil, chAmomile And pApAyA extrAct colour locK uv protection treAtment

Lighting is KEY. Natural light is great but if you're hosting an evening event and don't have the ability to dim the lights, consider incorporating some beautiful ornate lamps for an amber glow throughout.

TIP:

DETANGLER

LIGHT IT UP:

extrActs of desert lime And lemon Aspen colour locK uv protection

SHINE SPRITZ HOW TO:

WITH THE MOST-ESS: Hospitality is key - always offer your guests something to drink (either coffee, tea, wine or water) upon arrival. Your welcome staff must give everyone the VIP treatment by ensuring the client’s name and preferred beverage are on record and acknowledged immediately.

BITE SIZE: Bite sized treats always go down well and don't need to cost the earth either!

whiterabbitprojects.com.au

All free from sodium lAureth ureth sulphAtes sulphAtes A (sls), ppArAAbens, petrochemicAls And petrochemic the replAcement cement of synthetic ingredients where possible, without compromising performAnce. nce. free from Any AnimAll derived ingredients.

Contact ARTAV Australia for more information and your local distributors Australia wide and New Zealand

Free Call: 1800 805 276 • Tel: +61 8 8300 1999

naturallook.com.au

MY WAY

A SURE BOOST JAMIE FURLAN

L’Oréal Professionnel Artist Xiang QV, VIC

Her look is completely effortless, cool and relaxed but still chic, and her hair needs to reflect that. I really love the copper tones but would increase the intensity with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Majirouge; a sure boost of vibrancy thats will elevate her look even further. The textured loose cut is great but lacks strength.

To complement her petite face shape I would bring the length to her jawline for a blunt, solid feel. I would also build texture into the interior and emphasise her fringe, making this a key feature to her overall (hair) look. To bring this style together I'd use the L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art styling range, more specifically Tecni.Art Next Day Hair - a lightweight texturiser perfect in creating that cool-undone look. I’d also finish the style with a spray of Tecni.Art Crystal Gloss for added polish and a hit of shine.

MY WAY

PUSH DALE DELAPORTE Prema, NYC

Firstly, yes to it all!

Secondly, if I were to offer a suggestion I might approach her hair cut/style with more push.

Cut the shape dry and keep it voluminous and rounded with piece-y ends. I suggest keeping the moisture level up by using the Goldwell Kerasilk Control Shampoo and the Intensive Smoothing Mask as her conditioner (only rinse the mask 30 per cent to double as a moisture product for unruly curls). Colouring is not my forte, but Mel Cooper (Prema Sydney Head Colour Technician) and I agree that we would love to evolve her colour further. Mel is THE BEST at free hand colouring which is perfect for this texture. Let’s pull the colour further up the shaft and fade it from burnt cool caramels to beige honey to accentuate the curls.

INFEATURE

WHAT ARE THE CORE CONSIDERATIONS WHEN ACQUIRING A NEW BRAND AT COTY, SUCH AS GHD?

ghd, meet

COTY

We speak with the President of Coty Professional Beauty, Sylvie Moreau on the future of ghd.

I

t was big news when we learned that Coty acquired ghd for AU$673 million – a true industry success story built on the simple idea of every day being a ‘good hair day.’ Timing, ingenuity, people and branding, ghd executed it flawlessly and now rests in the safe and innovative hands of Coty Professional Beauty – joining the likes of Wella (hair brands) and OPI - partners on a trek to the top of the professional beauty industry.

Taking them there will be President of Coty Professional Beauty and Executive Committee Member, Sylvie Moreau, and we had the pleasure of chatting with the businesswoman on the fresh future for ghd.

WHY IS GHD A SUITABLE ACQUISITION FOR THE COTY BEAUTY PORTFOLIO – WHAT ASSETS DOES THE (GHD) BRAND DELIVER TO THE COMPANY? ghd is of gold standard in its field and for us at Coty it represents a strategic opportunity to expand in an adjacent, complementary category. The acquisition of ghd strengthens our worldwide leadership position in the salon industry and Coty’s Professional Beauty division. As such, it is also integral to fulfilling our overall mission to position Coty as the future global leader in beauty.

62 INSTYLE

Coty is a company with a long-standing heritage and focus on beauty and is driven to celebrate and liberate the diversity of consumes and clients’ beauty. We want to team up with brands that help bring that ambition and purpose to life and where we see a strategic, culture and growth fit. For example, in early October 2016, we became the world’s 3rd largest beauty company, with the merger of Coty and P&G Specialty Beauty. This merger brought together a fantastic portfolio with strong market positions: number 1 in fragrances and salon nails, number 2 in professional hair and number 3 in colour cosmetics. ghd is another perfect fit, as the brand is unique, fully complementary, loved by stylists and consumers alike and a business that we can see mutual opportunities for growth and development, both for the brand and for its people.

WHAT OPPORTUNITIES WILL NOW OPEN FOR GHD, AS A PART OF THE COTY FAMILY? The main opportunity for ghd is to accelerate its growth trajectory through Coty’s channel and category capabilities. ghd’s strong innovation pipeline, superior technology and robust technical expertise will benefit from Coty’s global platform and resources, as we look at how to leverage the magic between the “chemistry” on our side and “physics” on the ghd side.

As part of the Coty family, ghd employees will have access to new and better capabilities and Coty training programs.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR GHD AT COTY – WHAT DOES THE COMPANY HAVE PLANNED FOR THE BRAND IN TERMS OF ANY CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS/ EXECUTIONS? The future is bright for ghd.

The intent is to manage ghd as a standalone business under the supervision of its existing management team and people, fuelled by the additional capabilities and support from Coty. I can tell you that I have just reviewed the plans with the team in Australia and they are fantastic. I can also say that we will continue delighting our stylists and consumers with world-class partnerships and collaborations, and our 2017 education program promises a stellar line-up of multi awardwinning experts who will inspire stylists with the very best in hairdressing education.

IN YOUR OPINION WHY IS GHD A MARKET LEADER? I believe it’s a combination of several elements - a fantastic brand, superior products, great culture and a strong team.

I am really impressed with the brand’s cult status and achievements in a relatively short time since it’s been founded. I love ghd’s fresh, entrepreneurial culture – which is something ghd and Coty share. And we also know that success comes from capable people – and we are inspired and impressed with the growth momentum that the ghd team has delivered over the past years, growing in the market and preparing the pipeline of innovation for the future. I’m looking forward to the bright future that sees the Wella hair brands, OPI and ghd in a formidable portfolio of brands to compete and win in the professional beauty industry.

For more information visit www.ghdhair.com/au

ACTIVANCE

RHODANIDE REJUVENATION Australian-brand Activance is built on the foundation of exhaustive research, the rejection of chemicals and one very special active ingredient.

H

air health brand Activance continues to develop and expand with necessary products for the 21st century haircare market. The brand genesis began many decades ago, centred on the health-boosting nutrient Rhodanide, an ingredient which strengthens hair, aids follicle metabolism and protects against dangerous chemicals and free radicals.

The ingredient was once used to prevent illness in humans and livestock in the 20th century, when scientists started to notice an improvement in animals’ coats, leading them to discover just how necessary the ingredient is for human biology – so much so that the human body naturally produces it. Activance sought to utilise that ingredient event further.

Activance harnesses the power of this ingredient, utilising it in the extensive Activance product range, which is now distributed in salons worldwide. The range

carries the key ethos of operating beyond haircare that provides a temporary cosmetic fix, instead aiming to make an actual difference in hair health. As such, the brand relies on highest purity pharmaceutical-grade and scientifically proven ingredients rather than harsh chemicals in order to improve the thickness, strength and shine of hair.

As daily stress can cause the natural depletion of Rhodanide, these hair products ensure hair is kept healthy and strong, utilising the natural power of Rhodanide to nourish hair from the inside. The brand importantly uses no chemical preservatives, artificial colours, parabens and other hidden impurities. It is also proudly Australian made and animal-cruelty free.

The range includes a variety of leave-in treatments, shampoos, conditioners and travel pack sets, all tailored to different hair health needs, such as products for normal hair conditioning, hypoallergenic sensitives or with enhanced capabilities.

The brand continues to add to their impressive portfolio and announce changes that grow their profi le in the Australian market. Most recently, Activance Simone Lee announced Simone Lee as a Global Brand Ambassador, calling on her skills as a respected Trichologist, salon owner, and session stylist to embolden Activance even further.

Rooted in European research and crafted with modern, Australian sensibilities, Activance is the product of decades of analysis, understanding and implementation. It’s onwards and upwards now for this enticing brand.

For more information visit activance.com. au or call (03) 9326 8844 INSTYLE 63

INFEATURE

THE ART OF

Timing

Clive Allwright on set at the latest muk campaign

64 INSTYLE

Muk are moving on up and you’re invited. We chat with newly appointed International Creative Director Clive Allwright on muk’s inaugural launch into education. It’s your time.

T

amazing people he universe seems on board.” to have this magic muk salons way of delivering have received us exactly what their precious we’re ready for education bible and at the exact time we need it. are signing up in Sometimes it’s a course of droves for the three, fate that looks shiny on the coherent classes outside yet weeks, months driven and designed or years later, becomes less

by Clive himself. perfect and more the push The first is titled needed to take a left turn and Hot Tools Styling discover whole new levels of and is designed for success, love and ultimately apprentices or any growth. Staying stagnant hairdresser who is never a good idea, and a has ‘been out of the life state that International game for a while.’

Creative Director of muk, Clive CLIVE ALLWRIGHT “I’ve noticed a Allwright has never settled for. lot of people don’t actually know how Hence the reason he and muk co-owner to blow-dry or finish hair. They have Mark Gariglio get along so well - together their one, favourite brush that they use forging a new paradigm in industry colour for every different style and finishing and in 2017, a launch into education. technique,” said Clive.

“We are no longer just a supplementary “We’re going to teach participants what retail brand. We are going to become all the brushes are for while working with salons’ number one foremost primary the prowess of the muk style stick and brand,” said Mark. curl stick. We’ll be working on everything “Two years ago our paths crossed from figure 6 and 8 barrel curls to natural, and we discovered Clive was looking to diffused texture.” partner with a company where he could The second course is a two-day work directly with the owners and be part cutting program open to those who have of a family, and so when we created our never picked up a pair of scissors to our campaign shoot, he was the first person more experienced stylists looking to we approached,” said Mark. break bad habits.

“Not only will he create our campaigns, “We’re going to focus on technique, not he will also be available to our Diamond haircuts. We will teach how to cut one Salons with customized in-salon cutting length, graduated layers and lines and workshops. We can’t wait to get started.” focus on moving hair forward and back From milk rounds, to barbershop and how to make it higher and wider.” tobacconist and basin boy, Clive’s journey “Participants will walk away from has been a fateful one, a succession of the class able to look at a picture and meetings, moments and muses that the recognize instantly what technique you man couldn’t have forecast if he tried. should approach with. A lot of people Each unique from the next, sometimes approach a haircut in the same way by even opposing (like his move from the splitting the head in four regardless of punk-street ethos of TONI&GUY to what they’re doing,” said Clive. the chignon-centric dressing of Kim And last but certainly not least, an Robinson), each of Clive’s career moves introduction to muk's third class – the has been motioned by a relationship, a curriculum all about breaking the rules family unit and a bucket full of dreams.

– an area both muk and Clive are very “I started with TONI&GUY when it comfortable with. was a family business and then it grew, “Th ink precision cutting with razors I started with KMS when it was a small and learning about what different types family and then it grew. What attracted of scissors are for. I used to cut with one me to muk, having known Mark for years, blade, now I have five different blades. was its small business structure, plus the Th is is not your typical nineties razor fact the brand was about to launch colour class where hair is destroyed, this is about – it was a perfect fit,” explained Clive. respecting the integrity of hair with the “With muk, I’m doing something right tools.” left field as opposed to working with a Classes kick off on March 6th. major product company. muk is growing globally every day and we’ve got some www.mukhair.com

“I’ve noticed a lot of people don’t actually know how to blowdry or finish hair.”

VOLUMIZING LEAVE-IN TREATMENT Strengthens and thickens the hair’s internal structure through its unique formula containing wheat amino acid (the building block of protein), herbal extracts and pro-vitamins.

Contact Artav Australia for further information Ph: 1800 805 276

naturallook.com.au

INFEATURE

BIG Secrets

The five level Richard Ward Salon in London’s Sloane square looks after 1200 clients a week – with a salon this large, what are the secrets?

Writes Cameron Pine.

Gavin Hoare

L

ong standing as one of media's most wanted hairdressers, it’s little wonder that at Richard Ward’s salon, the phone rings for an appointment every 30 seconds. With 90 staff – how does a salon (that some would call a constant headache) run so smoothly?

Not only that but with such a large salon how do you ensure a consistent level of service?

From the outside it may look like a swish King’s Road cappuccino joint, with ladies picking at posh salads on the terrace (ordered in from local delis by salon staff), but from the moment Richard Ward’s flawless maitre d’ Gavin greets you, you’re assured a regal hair experience (a regular has been the Duchess of Cambridge). They do things differently at Richard Ward: placing the hairdressing on the first floor means the clients won’t get papped, and you can wait for your appointment in the bar with a glass of wine. Non-surgical Carita ‘facelifts’ are offered along with cuts but that’s just the tip of the iceberg – it’s obviously more about a business concept for Richard Ward than just the pretty things. The salon certainly isn’t cheap (a cut with a graduate stylist starts at £65) but if you do decide to step foot in that salon you’ll certainly feel a million dollars and, well, the money spent - that will soon be forgotten.

“It’s surprising how much you have to push back on the team – in terms of responsibility – there’s only so much we can do education wise in our business, it really comes down to the investment by the individual,” said Richard Ward Salon Manager, Gavin Hoare.

Gavin isn’t your regular manager either, as he likes to put it “A lot of salons miss the importance of having someone in the salon who 66 INSTYLE

INFEATURE

“This is what people pay for – our skills are expected, the extras are everything,” GAVIN HOARE.

is just there – who moves around, greets clients and makes sure everything is working and first and foremost that the clients are happy,” Gavin said.

Moving throughout the spectacularly sunny multi-level space, Gavin is likened to a maitre’d at a hip establishment like The Ivy. Read between the lines and its easy to see that nobody has really mastered the super salon concept like Richard Ward. It, for the most part, falls beneath significant consumer awareness coupled with his skills through the trade – and then there’s the celebrity clientele and the famous Chelsea Blow Dry – a statement his salon is widely recognize for. In a nutshell it’s a signature blow dry that makes women look their best.

The salon which also incorporates a metro spa is broken up into a series of zones; such as the retail zone, the relax zone, the colour zone and even the cleanse zone and the hair zone – the client journey is one of unparalleled significance through every aspect of the salon journey.

There is also an unquestionable level of support from L’Oréal Professionnel and their latest innovations – a partnership that has navigated the Richard Ward salon through numerous prestigious awards. With such a massive space it’s hard to believe formal staff meetings only take place every 8 weeks, Gavin puts it down to the salon’s seamless zones that ensure communication is as polished as possible – there’s fewer crossover, disputes or issues when everyone masters their own space, (or so we’re told).

So it was after sitting down one on one with Gavin that we discovered a talented hairdresser – but one that left the industry at 26 to go back to university and study sociology. It wasn’t long before Gavin missed the unforgettable hairdressing industry flair and made his way back to the salon.

“At the time I came back and needed a job there were no chairs free so we decided I would spend time with clients, stylists, colourists and receptionists and make it all come together.” Gavin said.

Clients can make future bookings from the chair, payments at the chair – it’s all quick moving – it’s almost as if you’re not even up from your chair at the restaurant and your car keys and coat are standing there waiting.

“Every week the figures go up in the staff room – it’s never about selling, it’s about my team offering consistent on point advice, if you give all of this, retail sales will follow,” he said.

It’s true for even this slick establishment that clients do get advice and can always go elsewhere and get it cheaper, for the Richard Ward team it’s about trust by constantly re-assessing even the retail suggestions and creating an element of exclusivity.

“All we can do is offer this expert advice every time. There’s nothing else we can do,” Gavin said.

What’s the point in having such a large salon if you can’t offer the ultimate experience? “Gone are the days when clients come to the salon just because their mothers and grandmother went there. Now, more than ever the individual client experience is paramount – every client wants to be guided through the salon journey and treated like a prince or princess.”

Speaking of princesses, the salon really took off after the Royal Wedding – doing both Kate and William’s hair for the big day in 2011 not only grew the business, but also gave their clients a much higher expectation. According to Gavin they’ve even had clients say. ‘I bet you wouldn’t treat Kate Middleton like that’.

One particular client that currently visits the salon spends 13,000 pounds a year just on herself which includes a bevy of products across a number of different ranges. “You’ve got to know every segment of your clientele and target accordingly,” Gavin said. So it’s no wonder there are multiple brands in the salon across L’Oréal Professionnel, Shu Uemura, Kerastasé and more. They also sell more than 3,500 pounds a month in Carita skincare – a growing figure since working with the brand 5 years ago. Gavin says 30-33 per cent of the salon is colour business - men account for 10-15 per cent and the remainder is services and retail and like many salons, “Men’s is a big growth area for us,” Gavin said.

The crowd within the chair is also totally diverse. Every religion from Portuguese, Spanish, British and generally a very European mix is reflected by the dynamism of Chelsea.

Regular clients are rewarded with rewards points – it used to be redeemable for both products and services but now it’s for products only, just another way to try and embed the salon brand’s reputation for the best take home retail incentives too.

“We are never searching for new business – we nurture the business that’s already in the chair and by forming strong strategic alliances. We offer really loyal clients some lunch for two or some prosecco – we don’t necessarily want more from them – we just want to make them feel appreciated for still coming to us.”

While stylists and colourists don’t complete any money transactions themselves, Gavin says it’s important for them to keep aware of what clients are spending – this way they can ensure they are giving the necessary credit to a loyal client that’s investing in their hair.

The best advice? Stay relevant and constantly update your procedures is Gavin’s most effective advice. “The power of touch is elusive – everyone wants something different and you have to be adaptable in business.” Coming from a salon that just won 2016 Most Outstanding Salon of the Year in the London Hair and Beauty Awards – this is testament to a model that wasn’t just once glorious, but one that retains growth.

So be sure to keep your eyes and ears on every aspect of your salon business if you want it to reach it’s full potential. Gavin is so sure of his investment in salon clients that he doesn’t understand why even smaller salons don’t employ a similar strategy.

“Every salon needs a front of house and that’s me – someone needs to be the eyes and the ears of the salon.” Gavin said.

INSTYLE 67

INHAIR T H E

L AT E S T

S A L O N

A R R I VA L S

PUREOLOGY Fullfyl Shampoo. 1300 386 421 MATRIX Style Link Mineral Play Back Dry Shampoo. 1300 656 247

ALTER EGO ITALY Silver Color Maintain Balm. 1800 137 480 R+CO High Dive Moisture + Shine Crème. 1300 725 122

MARULAOIL Rare Oil Style Perfecting Serum. 1300 365 350

WELLA PROFESSIONALS Oil Reflections Luminous Reboost Mask. 1300 889 886

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL French Girl Hair by Tecni.Art French Froissé Texture Definition Cream.

1300 651 141

CHI Rose Hip Oil Color Nurture Protecting Shampoo.

1300 557 517 DAVINES Dry Texturizer.

(07) 3267 5511

ELGON PROFESSIONAL Affixx Hairstyling Filler Cream.

(02) 9673 5733

68 INSTYLE

INHAIR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Pro Fiber Re-Create Re-Materializing Shampoo. 1300 651 141

GKMBJ Nourishing Shampoo and Conditioner. (02) 9609 6020

EPROUVAGE Gentle Volume Shampoo and Reviving Scalp Serum. (02) 9666 3611

ELGON PROFESSIONAL Colorcare Silver Conditioner.

(02) 9673 5733

MATRIX Style Link Mineral Mess Maker Salt Infused Spray.

1300 656 247 PURE HAIR FOOD Hydrate Your Hair Moisture Conditioner. purehairfood.com.au

R+CO Grid Structural Hold Setting Spray.

1300 725 122

DAVINES Forming Pomade. (07) 3267 5511

NATURAL LOOK AUSTRALIA Silver Screen Ice Blonde Detangler.

(08) 8300 1999

TERAX ITALIA Crema Hydrating Shampoo. 1800 137 480

INSTYLE 69

INHAIR

NED Pomade The Ranger One. (03) 9575 0600 SACHAJUAN Thickening Conditioner. (07) 3395 4997 FUDGE PROFESSIONAL Think Big Texture Spray.

1300 764 437

PURE HAIR FOOD Boost Your Hair Volume Shampoo and Curl Your Hair Styling Cream. purehairfood.com.au

TRICHOVEDIC Luxury Shampoo. (02) 9489 7776

SHU UEMURA ART OF HAIR Urban Moisture HydroNourishing Double Serum and Treatment. 1300 651 141

EVERESCENTS Organic Cinnamon & Patchouli Moisture Conditioner. 1300 856 744 ALTER EGO ITALY Arganikare Day Therapy Tropical Rehab Cleanser. 1800 137 480

PAUL MITCHELL Ultimate Color Repair Mask. 1300 365 350 BLACK LAMB Hair Pomade.

0402 058 384

70 INSTYLE

THE CODE FOR PERFECT HAIR

Your perfect day starts with GOOD SOCIETY. Formulated to your exact hair needs. Shampoo, conditioner & styling products. Be a part of the GOOD SOCIETY.

FIND OUT YOURS

02 9099 1111 0412 868 585 sales@myartego.com.au

myartego.com.au

INHAIR

YUKO Anti-Frizz Leave-In Conditioner. 0402 888 900

ORIBE Gold Lust Dry Shampoo. 1300 725 122 KMS CALIFORNIA Add Volume Liquid Dust and Texture Crème. 1800 506 060

HI-PRO-PAC Macadamia Nut Oil Nourishing Masque.

(02) 9666 3611 KEUNE Care Satin Oil Shampoo. (02) 8886 4600 TIGI Bed Head Colour Trip. (02) 9889 0435

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Smartbond Step 3 – Conditioner. 1300 651 141

AVEDA MEN PureFormance Thickening Paste. 1800 706 377

ARTÈGO Good Society Soft Smoothing Fluid, Perfect Curl Shampoo and Intense Hydration No Rinse Conditioner. (02) 9099 1111 ALTER EGO ITALY Hasty Too Love Me Curl. 1800 137 480 EVOLUTION PROOF Evox Liquid Plasma with Fibroblast Anti-Aging Droplettes. (03) 9439 4841

72 INSTYLE

CERTIFIED ORGANIC BEAUTY

PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE AND COLOURS KEEPING IT NATURAL KEEPING IT SAFE WITH ECOCERT CERTIFIED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS

For further information contact NATULIQUE Australia P | 03 8790 4230 E | info@natulique.com.au W | natulique.com.au

IMAGINE Hair dances with icy pastels and fellow fabrications in this fairytale story of hair. Only the eye of Indira Schauwecker could weave such magic.

Hair || Indira Schauwecker Make Up || Lan Nguyen-Grealis Photo || Andrew O'Toole Styling || Lana Sveta Sotnikova

From Brisbane to Berlin

INFEATURE

We take a look at Brisbane hairdresser Gregson Gastar's experience hitting the global fashion circuit in one of the world’s most eclectic cities – Berlin.

Gregson has landed on his feet at Brisbane's boutique revolution Hair salon. The business is driven by Sandra and Andre Faiva, whom in combination have paved impressive 40 year long careers, also as owners and Academy Directors of TONI&GUY salons in Brisbane’s CBD and the Valley.

Photography

by Brad Rush

IS BERLIN FASHION WEEK SIMILAR TO THAT OF SYDNEY, OR MELBOURNE FASHION WEEK? Berlin also has a Mercedes-Benz Fashion week which is held in the Mercedes Benz Arena in Berlin in June, and in July, a more high-end fashion week which is similar to here. In Berlin it's a fashion week for designers with an edge - they came from all over Europe and even Australia.

The event is in its fifth year and is going through a transformation that will see a name change from BAFW to Alternative Fashion Week, and will travel from Berlin to LA and Melbourne.

HOW DO SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE FASHION WEEKS COMPARE TO BERLIN? Some aspects of the event were better than what we have in Australia - the audience was able to download an App called 'Yay' that would allow them to bid on outfits that they saw on the runway in real time. On the first night they held a media launch in an underground carpark of the Holiday Inn Hotel and the other events in a beautiful old train station called the Postbanhof. The last day saw a designer market happening at the same time as the show on the lower level where you could purchase and chat to the designers. Entertainment wise, each night there were different acts – on one night they revealed a New York hip hop group and the YouTube sensation Candy Ken. The highlights continued when Patricia Fields, who was the stylist on Sex and the City, closed the week with her runway show. The whole event has a big focus on independent designers rather than seasonal trends and really heroed concerns of the moment like up-cycling and sustainability.

HOW DO YOU THINK AUSTRALIAN FASHION IS, IN TERMS OF BEING CURRENT AND/OR ON PAR WITH EUROPEAN FASHION? Australia is an amazing place with great designers, and I think we will try anything on, but we really could learn a lesson from Germany about celebrating individuality.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CREATIVE CONCEPT FOR THE BERLIN SHOW? Conceptual clothing. Wearable art and heroing the up-cycling fashion movement.

WHAT PERSONALLY DID YOU BRING AWAY FROM THE EXPERIENCE? I’ve decided to say yes to every opportunity in my career because I will always get something out of it and usually it’s unexpected. I met and worked with some amazing, invigorating people, and saw some amazing things and inspiring art.

Working again with Sandra and Andre is an amazing opportunity, and inspires me to continue to create great looks that are current. My initial connection with Andre and Sandra commenced in the early days of the TONI&GUY time, and from the very start they have always been professionals that I have admired and respected.

I'm super inspired to be back in Brisbane and value the opportunity to work collaboratively with Sandra and Andre and the whole team at Revolution Hair. I think it's an environment which really feeds my creative desires, and an environment that holds its own in both national and international trends. I encourage others to come and join us!

INSTYLE 77

Kryolan on Oxford Kryolan Professional Make-Up has launched its first Sydney concept store, opening its doors onto Sydney’s Oxford street. The brand’s makeup is durable, long lasting, densely pigmented and available in the widest range of colours.

It is also known for its multifunctional purposes and extra skincare properties. (02) 9331 0141

I Am Cait

MAC Cosmetics has teamed up with Caitlyn Jenner in creating a classic, comprehensive makeup range. Caitlyn champions all ages, races and genders and this collection celebrates that inclusivity with product names like Tolerance, Compassion and Kindness. 1800 613 828

emerginC Wipe emerginC Scientific Organics Facial Cleansing Wipes are the ideal product for effective cleansing and makeup removal. The cloth is made from a sustainable, biodegradable wood fibre and includes all natural ingredients. (02) 9712 8188

Superfoliant

Dermalogica’s new Daily Superfoliant resurfaces the skin leaving it feeling ultra-smooth, while combatting the environmental pollution triggers known to cause brown spots, fine lines, and an uneven skin tone. Superfoliant’s naturally based ingredients such as charcoal powder, Red Algae, and Tara Fruit Extract work to inhibit adhesion of pollution particles to help preserve the skin’s youthful structure. The product is gentle enough for daily use but powerful enough to give immediate results. 1800 659 118 78 INSTYLE

Beauty NEWS

The latest news and products for the season ahead

ViVA Skin Introducing PuraSonic ViVA, the new, affordable solution to sonic facial cleansing. Providing a premium experience with cuttingedge technology, the skin-cleansing tool offers comfort and efficiency for users, promising that skin will feel cleaner, smoother and more invigorated after just a few uses.

Other benefits include greater absorption of skincare products, ensuring clients maximise their skincare regimen. (07) 5564 6767

Photography by Jennifer Stenglein Makeup by Nicola Snell for Napoleon Perdis Hair by Lyndal Salmon @ BIBA for Wella Professionals Styling by Elaine Marshall

INBEAUTY

DEPOT

Sophisticated Man Welcome the men’s range built to suit your male clients’ needs as it dives into the Australian haircare market.

D

EPOT celebrates the tradition of men’s grooming with an advanced and comprehensive concept – sophisticated but simple, with targeted products that comprise an impressively detailed range.

The diverse products are modern hair necessities based on traditional formulas, but updated for today’s man.

The haircare brand offers a full range of men’s products to meet the demands of an ever-evolving men’s market, moulded to fit your clients’ requirements. These specific, high quality products have a strong identity to suit demanding professionals in the male haircare industry.

As men genetically have a tendency towards hair loss, keeping the hair bulb clean and without excess oil ensures a balanced equilibrium, which, when paired with a healthy diet and lifestyle, help the hair and scalp. DEPOT has produced cleansing products such as a normalising hair shampoo and hydrating shampoo to aid in this endeavour.

Anti-dandruff and sebum control products prove essential in this sector, cemented with aloe vera juice, macadamia oil, botanical complex and other important facets.

DEPOT is also neutralising the concept of conditioning the hair, once considered a more feminine process. The brand’s conditioning range ensures additional softness, hydration, protection and control for unruly hair. The

range includes a refreshing conditioner and a complete leave-in conditioner to support respective needs with rice oil, lemon oil, rosemary essential oil and eucalyptol acting as essential ingredients.

The brand also focuses specifically on the art of shaving, with a range of dozens of products that extend from pre and post shave skin protectors, to softening beard oils, soothing soap creams, moisturising shave creams, shaving gels, after shave balms, post-shave sticks and more. Olive oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil and other natural products soothe, protect, refresh and moisturise during shaving.

DEPOT concludes its range with beard and moustache specific products – the modern man’s answer to stylish beards - cool and classy, always well groomed. Moustache waxes and moisturising and clarifying beard shampoos, as well as beard and moustache butter and cleansing wipes keep facial hair suitably dapper.

Specifically tailored to your cultured male clients, but all within a wide-ranging product line, DEPOT ensures male grooming is as prevalent as female grooming has always been - an immediate staple in our local market.

For more information visit Conceptual Brands on 1300 110 032 or email reception@conceptualbrands. com.au INSTYLE 79

INBEAUTY

AVEDA Tulasara Radiant Oleation Oil. 1800 706 377

ALPHA-H Liquid Gold with Glycolic Acid. 1800 659 777

ELEMIS Tri-Enzyme Resurfacing Serum.

1300 520 337

ULTRACEUTICALS Even Skintone Serum.

1800 355 890

EMERGINC Scientific Organic Clarifying Pads. (02) 9712 8188

80 INSTYLE

E C A F R U S ver

a s e f i l

Salvage your skin texture with these resurfacing products.

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INBEAUTY O COSMEDICS One Skin Natural Fusion Treatment Foundation in Ivory.

(02) 9712 8188

DERMALOGICA Sheer Tint Light.

1800 659 118

TREAT

yourself Foundations that do so much more than just conceal.

LA BIOSTHETIQUE Beauty Base.

1300 554 069.

IMAGE SKINCARE I Conceal Flawless Foundation.

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NUDE BY NATURE Liquid Mineral Foundation.

1300 366 147

82 INSTYLE

IF ONLY THEY * HAD USED FSP

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INHEALTH

n d u o r

Make this year your most successful yet with energy for endless creativity.

A 84 INSTYLE

ck

C e l o h t

W

hile some salons are still floating in that post-Christmas quiet time, it’s only a matter of weeks before things get busy, yet again, for another year. Then there’s Fashion Week, Hair Expo, courses and seminars, shows and events (cue INSTYLE’s mini education magazine attached) – the hairdressing industry is around the clock and we need all the energy we can get.

We reached out to Channel Ten’s Good Chef (Bad Chef) Zoe Bingley-Pullin for her top tips on maintaining energy. The foods and supplements for an on-the-go boost to get you through that 5am call time and 8pm head of highlights.

PROTEIN If you lead a busy lifestyle, place emphasis on eating protein at each meal and snack. Protein helps keep blood sugar levels stable, promotes satiety and fi res the metabolism, critical for optimal energy. Easy protein options when time is limited include boiled eggs, (can of) wild salmon, protein powder, nuts/seeds and natural yoghurt.

SLOW-RELEASE CARBOHYDRATES Carbohydrates are a necessary fuel for the body and mind. However, it’s the right kind of carbs that count! Focus on complex carbs made up of many sugar units, which are digested slowly allowing for a consistent release of energy. Carbs don’t only assist our physical energy but also mental clarity, the brain is a hungry organ and relies on carbs as fuel. Try rye sourdough, brown rice, quinoa, roasted sweet potato and legumes.

VITAMIN C Vitamin C is used by our adrenal glands which respond to stress and is important for a strong immunity. Foods rich in vitamin C include strawberries, capsicum, parsley, cauliflower, citrus and tomato.

Add one teaspoon of Vitamin C powder to smoothies or juices. Or try Camu Camu, a potent berry from the Amazonia boasting 50 times more Vitamin C than an orange!

SILVER SCREEN

INTERVAL COLOUR REFRESHMENT

MAGNESIUM AND VITAMIN B3 Restorative sleep is undoubtedly a necessity for those working in a highenergy environment. Magnesium may help to improve sleep quality and healthy sources include whole grains, green leafy vegetables, nuts and legumes.

Vitamin B3 is also known for its positive effect on sleep - try tuna, turkey, pork, mushrooms and avocado.

POTASSIUM Potassium is a mineral and electrolyte, popular in the fitness field for repair and recovery. However, fitness aside, potassium plays an important role in nervous system function and cell health generally. Too much sodium in the diet can displace potassium, so keeping an eye on sodium (salt) intake is important. Sources of potassium include oranges, scallops, tomatoes, peas, apricots and banana.

MACA POWDER Maca is a root plant native to Peru, traditionally used for improving energy levels, stamina and to help promote overall balance in the body including helping the body deal with stress. Pop Maca into a smoothie for a morning wake up or try it in capsule form. zoebingleypullin.com

THE MIDAS CUP Muscling to the top of 2016s super-foods, turmeric is famed for its anti-inflammatory and immune boosting properties, and who has the time to be sick, right? Enter Midas cUp – raw, vegan, organic and free from sugar, caffeine, gluten or dairy, add a spoonful for a golden latte, tea or smoothie boost and feel the benefits.

Enjoy a hit of black pepper added to increase turmeric’s active compound by 20-fold, and a sprinkle of cinnamon for its antibacterial properties. Did we mention it’s delicious? Make a daily dose of Midas your new year’s resolution. midascup.com.au

ICE BLONDE CONDITIONING MOUSSE 250g A RICH CREAM FOAM THAT TONES WHILE IT CONDITIONS. CONTAINS WHEAT AMINO ACID AND ORGANIC PLANT EXTRACTS TO PROVIDE THE HAIR WITH INCREASED BODY AND A LUSTROUS SHINE.

ICE BLONDE SMOOTH ENDS 150 mL SEALS AND STRENGTHENS THE CUTICLE WHILE PROVIDES THERMAL & UV PROTECTION TO MAINTANING A CLEAN CRISP BLONDE FINISH. STRAIGHT OR CURLY HAIR. ENRICHED WITH ARGAN OIL TO HELP PREVENT HAIR BREAKAGE, COLOUR FADE AND SPLIT ENDS WHILE ADDING MOISTURE AND A FABULOUS SHINE. ALSO AVAILABLE SILVER SCREEN ICE BLONDE SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER & DETANGLER Contact Artav Australia for further information Ph: 1800 805 276

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INFEATURE

We are the same but different as brothers; we share a vision of productivity and perseverance but clearly Bernard has the aesthetic eye. An anomaly, I know but we work as a team really well. I am the Yin to Bernard’s Yang. From the start our vision has been to be the best we can be, always striving to be that little bit better.

Bernard. B Gueit Studios Meet the Melbourne-based brothers taking a fresh approach to creative production – a bigger-picture motive that first benefits you, the client, before taking its course to ensure creative industries likes ours have a future to look forward to.

86 INSTYLE

ernard and Andrew Gueit are gifted not only through their talents (skilled photographer and digital artist respectively), but for each other - their brotherhood. Forever pushing and inspiring one another for growth and greatness, they have settled together, connected and creative as co-founders of Bernard.Gueit Studios – the complete service production company that is elevating the image and subsequently the profitability of the hair and beauty industry. We chat with the pair on influence, the industry and how they can assist you – the salon owner and creative stylist.

Despite unique skill sets, what commonalties do you share – vision, aesthetic, work ethic?

Is BG studios something you could always see happening is it something you have been working towards from a young age? Before Bernard.Gueit Studios we had a few other manifestations of the company.

Let’s just say Bernard.Gueit Studios is the phoenix rising from all our other ventures. We have certainly grown up in the industry and naturally we have learned what works for us and what doesn’t.

This company is defined by what works for us and what we’re striving for - client relations, excellent production and brilliant results. There can be a lot of talk and little action in our chosen creative field, and this inspires us to deliver the very best results/images.

Other than a total service offering, from concept to photography, post and graphic design, what is unique about the BG Studios offering – what benefits can companies expect when working with you?

We listen and bring together what is best for the client and the product they want to sell. At the end of the day it is a business not a hobby and the client’s satisfaction and increasing their brand awareness and sales is pivotal.

We are measured and realistic in our approach and try to meet the demands of the creative industry’s ever-changing landscape. As Bernard would say, “The image can only leave the premises if we are all satisfied that we’ve given 1000 per cent to it.” It has become Bernard.Gueit Studios’ mantra

INFEATURE

SUPPORTING BRANDS JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2017 Above left: Andrew Gueit and right, Bernard Gueit.

Activance............................................................................63

Are you competitive in any way? We are but not with each other, our competitiveness is always aimed at others and always with the objective to benefit our company - always fair, never threatening or underhanded.

How would a salon benefit and grow as a result of working directly with BG? We do not have a cookie cutter approach to dealing with salons. It is a creative industry and we look at every one as an individual with a voice, purpose and vision. We nurture, listen and work together with the salon and/or individual to achieve the results they want. We put all the pros and cons on the table and advise them on realistic budgets. We also have excellent working relations with leading model agencies around Australia and overseas, and suggest the best talent possible. We take the time to cast talent and always work to select the best stylist and makeup artist for the brief at hand. We become an all encompassing force and take the stress away from the salon so they can concentrate on their creative output.

How do you ideally see yourselves working/ collaborating with the professional hairdressing industry? The hair industry is an institution in Australia; so many talents and the creative process is incredible. In a sea of similarity we want to give the individual salon or creative artist a voice and a platform to shine. The industry is saturated and positively competitive. We listen and customise the shoot as an extension of the salon or individual. While the hairstyle is pride of place, all other creative elements (styling, makeup, model selection) must be complimentary so to ensure a cohesive vision.

Where do you see BG Studios in 5 years? Doing more of what we are doing now, we will still be hands on as we are passionate workaholics. We are already making in-roads throughout the international market.

In Australia we want to be exemplary and continue to prove that there is a better way of doing things in the creative industry. We are also keen on having a mentoring program for those entering the industry - not as unpaid labour but to empower the up and coming with good skills and etiquette so that as an industry, we grow and benefit each other. bernardgueitstudios.com

and our badge of honor - we take pride in what we produce.

How do you influence one another daily? Having grown up very closely we have always been able to communicate non-verbally - a tilt of the head, a smirk or raised eyebrow can mean a multitude between us.

Communication is key when you are working together. We have a weekly meeting scheduled where we discuss everything about the business but we go over things on a daily basis.

Andrew is good at keeping the numbers ticking over while I rally the creative team.

Artégo..................................................................................71 Big Review TV..................................................................6 & 7 Comfortel.............................................................................41 Cosmoprof Bologna...........................................................81 De Lorenzo...........................................................................33 DEPOT...................................................................................79 Glide Hair Tools....................................................................17 Hair Expo..............................................................................29 Hair Expo Pop Up................................................................10 Jeval................................................................................ OBC Juuce....................................................................................37 KMS.......................................................................................50 L'Oréal Professionnel..................................................12 & 13 muk haircare............................................. FC, IFC & 3, 4 & 5 Murray's Pomade................................................................89 Natural Look......................................................19, 59, 65, 85 Natulique.............................................................................73 Omniplex............................................................................IBC Ozdare.................................................................................35 Paul Mitchell........................................................................23 Shiseido Professional...........................................................21 Timely....................................................................................27 Trichovedic....................................................................47, 83 Wella System Professional......................................8, 48 & 49

INSTYLE 87

INSALON The latest tools, terms and technology

GLIDE FOIL Glide Hair Tools has launched a new addition to their burgeoning product family with a foil set that can be used for a variety of colouring techniques. The box includes 525 pre-cut sheets of used 18micron foil, the most popular foil on the market, with a pre folded lip to save time in the salon. The sheets are 12.5 centimetres in width and 20.5 centimetres in length. Visit glidehairtools. com.au or call (02) 8730 8847

MATTE BLACK Comfortel’s latest interior piece comes in the form of trendy tapware with a black matte finish and round lines to give salons a modern look. With a smooth and sleek aesthetic and unique features, the pieces include a Showerhead, Flick Mixer and Black Braided Hose with hot and cold outlets. Update your current taps to this stylish counterpart for a bold, luxurious statement for any basin station. Visit comfortel.com.au

BLOW BY BASE DRYER The new BLOW by BASE Dryer is a uniquely lightweight tool, while still accessing a powerful 2000 watt motor and offering 2 speed settings and 4 temperature options. The dryer has a 2.7 metre cord and ionic technology that generates millions of negative ions to help break down water molecules faster. The low Electro Magnetic Frequency (EMF) also helps minimise your exposure without sacrificing your client’s hair. Call Norris on (07) 3208 1892

SILVER BULLET The new Silver Bullet Balding and Fading Clipper is a powerful face and beard clipper with zero overlapping surgical steel blades. Equipped with a powerful magnetic motor, the high blade speed allows for superior balding, fading and shaving results, while the tool remains balanced for professional use. The set includes four comb attachments, lubricating oil and a brush. Visit datelinecity.com or call (02) 9666 3611

ROUND BRUSH COLLECTION ELEVEN Australia has released their new collection of round brushes that ideally suit every style, texture and cut. Made with magnesium barrels and nylon bristles, the brushes come in three different sizes; large, medium and small to cater to every cut, allowing hairdressers to style trendy waves, add necessary volume, manage curls or create shape for shorter hair looks. Visit elevenaustralia.com or call 1800 104 204

ONE STEP COLOUR Australian International Industries’ One Step Colour is a revolutionary colour cream product created by hairdressers, allowing the removal of residual or natural pigments during the colouring process. The system can create up to 7 levels of lift and deposit semi-permanent colour all in one step. Colours use new oxidation-resistant pigments and can be applied as an all-over colour or for sectional colouring. Email info@aii.net.auor call (03) 9764 2833

CD’s Shampoo Cleans & clarifies

Barber Talc Superfine powder, vintage fragrance

D-Lux Grooming Crème Lightweight, smooth finish, natural shine

What’s New? Grandpa Harry’s Total Control Hair Paste

La-Em Straight Gel Firm hold

Sculpts, shapes & controls

To order please contact Australian International Industries Distributor of Colour Placement Systems Unit 7c Scoresby Industry Park, 28 Janine Street Scoresby Vic 3179 Phone: 03 9764-2833 | Fax: 03 9764-9709 | Email: admin@aii.net.au follow us on facebook.com/AIIHAIRANDBEAUTY

SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL

Hair Energy C

New revelations in research allow you to understand, diagnose and treat your clients’ hair like never before, writes Nouruloyun Borghol.

ult luxury brand System Professional has made important product changes, drawing on a significant new discovery about hair, and using this research and innovative technology to redefine the brand as a whole.

The ground-breaking discovery from Wella Professionals reveals that each individual’s hair has its own ‘Hair Energy’ profile that is as unique as a fingerprint. The brand has used this intel to deduce that hair can be transformed through a revolutionary new ENERGYCODE™ COMPLEX, 90 INSTYLE

SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL

“Managing the right levels and condition of both keratin and lipids in an individual’s hair is the key to influencing its structure which ultimately will determine whether hair is smooth or frizzy, shiny or dull, limp or full of bounce.”

DR RAMON GRIMALT

and is now offering a care system tailored to those specific energy needs. The system is comprised of three steps – complex in-salon diagnostics, and individualised in-salon treatments and retail options based on those results.

“With 40 years dedicated to the science of transformative haircare, System Professional is the only brand with

the experience to create a personalised, bespoke professional haircare system,” said Jerome Toulza, General Manager Wella Professionals, Coty Professional Beauty ANZ. “We pride ourselves in not only innovating products that serve a purpose, but we also commit to providing a luxurious experience for our consumers that goes beyond the salon.”

More specifically, the ENERGYCODE™ COMPLEX technology is designed to re-establish the hair’s natural lipid balance and protect the keratin for healthier hair that is more responsive to touch, styling and color.

Inspired by luxury skincare science, the new technology is a patented combination of five naturally occurring active lipids and other powerful ingredients that instantly boost hair quality and feel. The innovative complex is made up of vitamin B to maintain moisture balance within the scalp layers, caffeine for increasing blood circulation in the scalp, histidine to replenish the natural protein structure and two natural – lipids Glyceryl Monoleate & Oleic Acid, which help maintain the structural integrity of hair.

“Whilst keratin acts as hair’s main building block (comprising 96 per cent of it), this new research has shown that lipids (only 4 per cent of hair’s main building blocks), have a uniquely active influence upon hair, acting as a kind of flexible ‘cement’ to bind the keratin ‘bricks’,” shared Dr Ramon Grimalt, independent hair biologist and Professor of Dermatology at the University of Barcelona.

“Managing the right levels and condition of both keratin and lipids in an individual’s hair is the key to influencing its structure which ultimately will determine whether hair is smooth or frizzy, shiny or dull, limp or full of bounce,” Dr Grimalt continued.

This cutting-edge technology uses an ENERGYCODE™ MAPPING diagnostic tool to identify your client’s hair energy profile. This diagnosis forms the

basis of a salon and take-home treatment and product regimen that is tailored to your client’s specific hair and scalp needs.

There are infinite combinations to meet each individual’s haircare needs; varying from express leave-ins, to rinse out care to indulgent rituals.

Two high-profile brand ambassadors are on board to support this new technology, with Poppy and Chloe Delevingne joining the campaign. Both ambassadors attest to the immediate change they felt in their hair after undertaking the system. The duo were diagnosed in salon to reveal their very disparate hair needs, and then given the new treatments and products to instantly re-energise their hair.

An important new discovery for scientists, clients and celebrity figures alike, this technology is most significantly paramount for hairdressers looking to act in the utmost professional, personal and innovative manner possible.

“As a hairdresser and salon owner, it’s exciting to have a personalised haircare system that prioritises individual haircare needs,” said Australian stylist, Mia De Vries of The Fox & The Hair. “System Professional’s bespoke consultation service allows me to really understand my clients’ hair and scalp concerns so I can prescribe a haircare system that’s totally unique to them. Having been EnergyCoded myself, I can attest to the quality of System Professional – my hair looks and feels better than ever and I can’t wait for my clients to try it for themselves.”

For more information visit www.systemprofessional.com INSTYLE 91

INBUSINESS

Time to thrive The secret to thriving instead of just surviving the daily grind is to give yourself a little downtime, writes Jo Burgess.

D

id the festive shenanigans leave you fresh out of fizz?

Have you hit the New Year only to find that you’re dragging your feet more than usual, and are a mere shadow of your former ultra-bubbly self?

Creating some time to rest, recuperate and recharge probably topped your resolutions list, but unless you’ve truly committed to creating downtime it shouldn’t be a surprise if you’re already as busy as ever in 2017.

When you’ve overdone it, just crossing your fingers and wishing for more time to yourself ain’t going to cut it. And don’t believe all the hype – there is no easy way to achieve the balance you need to thrive!

It doesn’t matter whether you want to treat yourself to a pedi once a month, need some quality time with your partner, or just want five free minutes a day to enjoy a caramel latte, it’s going to take a few well-executed steps to success!

Become an early riser Waking up with the sparrows might sound like a total drag but it’s proven to fuel your creativity and success. It’s also the perfect opportunity to snatch a few minutes to yourself, sansinterruption, plus you’ll be able to get a head start on anything important that’s on your plate that day.

If getting up at the crack of dawn leaves you less blissedout babe and more red-eyed beast, try setting your alarm ten minutes earlier every morning. Before you know it you’ll have tricked your body clock into feeling fresh as a daisy, even at such an early hour.

Perfect your processes Ever found yourself enjoying a few minutes of peace and quiet, only to have a team member text you with an inane question like: “We’ve run out of coffee, what should I do?”? Just like that, you’ve snapped out of your chillout zone and are back into adrenalinefueled work-mode. The best way to avoid being interrupted is to add some spit and polish to your day-to-day processes, so your team not only understands what is expected of them, but also feel empowered and capable of taking some of the burden of decision making off your shoulders.

92 INSTYLE

Turn off the tech Being able to switch off is probably the biggest struggle any business owner faces. Sure, sending emails from your couch at 9pm might feel more relaxing than shooting off half a dozen messages in the middle of a busy salon, but here’s the thing: you are still working, and it’s nearly bed time.

If you think the magical sleep fairy is going to be visiting tonight, think again. Your body needs time to wind down and prepare to catch some Z’s, and by working late you’re really just robbing yourself of productivity tomorrow. So turn off your iPad, take a hot shower, and for goodness sakes get a decent night’s rest.

Let your software help Now that you’re in the swing of things, it’s time to up the ante. You probably have a whole bunch of boring tasks that you keep putting off because they are just so yawn-inducing, but what if I told you that you could do all of them automatically?

This might come as a bit of a revelation, but did you know you can get your computer to confirm your client’s appointments for you? And send out email campaigns without lifting a finger? Yep, you heard. Invest in the right technology and, lo and behold, you’ve created some free time out of thin air!

Be kind to yourself If it’s all too hard, you’ve had a massive week and there’s absolutely zero chance you’ll be dragging yourself to your 6am yoga class on Sunday, it’s all good! Some days will be like that, so don’t be too hard on yourself.

Take the opportunity to reset, remind yourself that you’re actually on track, and don’t forget to keep up the good work in the weeks to come.

Jo is a co-founder and the VP of Evolution at Shortcuts.

As one of the key visionaries of this industry-leading brand, Jo has seen many technological innovations since she first installed Shortcuts in her salon more than 20 years ago.

To hear more of Jo’s business inspiration visit www.shortcuts.com.au/quickfix.

INBUSINESS

Rebuilding your Business DMK Skin Managing Director Daniel Dickson has provided countless successful mentoring programs to up and coming DMK skin clinics and salons, here he shares some of his 'business turn around' tricks for when staff members leave.

What are the top 3 things to remember during this period 1 Reflections on what I could do better next time: Staff members leaving are an inevitable part of working in business. However, putting steps in place to ensure that any one person leaving does not affect your business as much as it has this time round is important. Take time when reflecting to review all your training and procedures – ensure that knowledge is shared amongst all employees.

2 Remember workplace culture: Always try to keep staff morale high during this period and address the elephant in the room to stop the rumour mill dead in its tracks - let your remaining staff know why that person has left. In my experience, the two most common reasons for moving on are for either career progression or moving out of the area. That being said, if the person moving on was because they weren’t quite the right fit or were unhealthy for the business, I think that it’s OK to acknowledge that and professionally discuss this with the team and as a group have a cultural realignment and refocus on the tasks and goals at hand.

there is a morale problem within the business - the business owner has allowed the culture to be ‘kidnapped’ and it is up to them to re-establish their position as the primary driver of culture within the business.

Morale is also something that is established at a team level through recognition, awards, collaboration, and employees feeling like they can contribute to the business that they decided to work at.

3 Your business is only as strong as the people within it: Your

Simply, by making it not a big deal, as if you do make a big deal out of it, you are admitting to your clientele (and your competitors), that this person was a significant and irreplaceable part of the business.

We must make sure that clients do not feel that any one person holds the key to them reaching their goals within your business and rather views your business as a whole – the vehicle that will allow them to reach their client based goals.

‘People Plan’ should be healthy and always encouraging training and development for all staff at all levels. It should persuade staff members to contribute to the business, its growth, and the overall dynamics. Embracing this philosophy will spill over into the clinic’s morale and general workplace culture. Often when this sort of ethos is put in place, I find that when a staff member does decide to move on it is because they do not really fit in with the cultural aspect of the role rather than the fact that the job is not quite right for them.

What strategies can you put in place to ensure that you’re better prepared in the future • Having a strong ‘People Plan’ – that is a working document, which is constantly revised as roles, and business objectives change and grow.

• Work on either improving or maintaining a healthy, positive, collaborative work culture – create an environment where people want to grow and develop in - rather than a place where toxic staff members can manifest.

• Ensure that all staff members are aligned and share in the short, middle, and long-term business objectives.

How do you maintain morale with the remaining staff You have to be transparent and honest with conversations; also allow the staff to speak freely in a very sacred open environment where no one is judging each other. I honestly believe that if

What is the best way to break the news to clients?

Any other advice/anecdotes?

Businesses should have a policies and procedures manual in a salon location that is easily accessible to all staff members at all times. This manual should include information such as: • How to perform a consultation • How the rooms, workstations, reception areas are to be setup • Execution of services to ensure continuity in client experience • How to conclude treatments and aftercare Whenever there is change within a business, it always falls back on how strong your education and training programs are. Often business owners are the only ones who have this knowledge and when I mentor salons, I always encourage owners to nominate at least one senior member of staff to also conduct training and empower them to share some of this responsibility with the owner.

A great way to implement this is to have the in-clinic educator role, renumerated and incentivised based up ensuring that their colleagues are all trained and working to the standard that is set by the clinic owner.

INSTYLE 93

INBUSINESS

On it Work ON your Business more than you work IN your business, writes Larissa Macleman.

F

or many salon owners, the thought of passing over your clientele to spend more time on business building can be fraught with fear and uncertainty, but if you take the important jump of stepping away from the busy work of your salon floor, your business is bound

to benefit.

If you want to master working ON your business, not IN it then I have some tips for you.

At the time I sold my salon I worked IN and ON my business 15 hours a week and built the team strategically, to manage the day-today operations..

If one of the key reasons you set up a business was to help you achieve that all-important work life balance then these three key ingredients to making a successful transition away from the daily tasks, are a must for you.

1. Celebrate Your Salon Team Take the time to grow, engage and nurture your team. It’s hard running a team and the more you put into helping them grow, the more you're going to get back, particularly with the younger stylists.

Pay attention to how the industry and working environment has changed in the last ten years rather than reminiscing on days past - trying to force a square peg into a round hole just isn’t going to cut it. It’s important to break the cycle and be innovative and accommodating. If you change your mindset so that your team become your main clientele, the way they’ll look after your business and the things they will introduce to build your brand will be profound.

It’s not your way or the highway! Don't hold your staff back purely because of their age or lack of experience. Encourage them and let them flourish and grow, and your salon will flourish and grow.

Once your team know your core values and vision, let them run with it, give them the scope to really engage and grow their role.

2. Share Your Vision and Business Goals Make sure you’re all on the same page and that the ship is sailing in the right direction. Businesses change due to the economy, team dynamics and innovations.

If they’re part of the evolution of your vision, which you create together, this will be far easier for you to achieve. Everyone on your team should actively and openly understand any changes ahead.

94 INSTYLE

Communication within a salon In a packed-out salon environment communication becomes more important. Some ideas for you to set in place are: • Hold a weekly team meeting to build the culture and team vision • Each team member has a one-to-one to discuss their personal progress within the vision • Have strong KPIs in place (Key Performance Indicators) so that everyone knows what they are out to achieve • Have a 10 minute huddle each morning, celebrate and look at the day ahead. Th is keeps everyone on track and ensures any issues are ironed out from the start • Set up a Secret Facebook page for the team - Everything from funny thoughts, to information about what’s going on each day in the salon

3. Embrace Technology and Social Media!

It’s a useful tool and not scary! Social media is more simple than it’s often perceived. Remember it’s just as new to everyone as it is to you, so it’s vital to get amongst it! The marketing side of social media is great for any salon business. Build your brand presence online and always keep your target market in mind.

Taking the old way online Th is is a great way to simplify the marketing process. Often online marketing tactics are no different to the old way, they are just re-packed in a new way. So for example you can offer the old loyalty cards and refer a friend vouchers still but just do it on the social platform. Th is gives the incentive to share and the reach is far larger, and far cheaper than a printed referral card.

Social Recruiting Whilst you can use the regular recruitment sites, social media can be a great way to fi nd new team members. Share on Facebook and Instagram, and even consider a sponsored advert to further reach potential staff. Th is is a very cheap way to advertise and a highly effective way to reach even more potential staff.

Larissa Macleman helps salon owners and industry leaders build a business with intention through salon software, e-courses and coaching; larissa@salonownerscollective.com

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To request your FREE Sample Kit email info@jeval.com.au or call 02 9882 3100 Sample kit contains: 3 Tubes of Jeval Colour 1 Jeval Developer Jeval Colour info pack

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