y a b s ’ e k w ht a LAS MS
DOUG N O R E M A BY C
he geography of Hawke’s Bay, soils, exposure to annual weather patterns and proximity to the ocean are an excellent combination for fine wine production. The correct grape varieties, vineyard management and excellent winemaking are also critical factors - bringing together all the attributes and conditions for sound and fine wine. Naturally occurring land movement over the last few hundred years has also created opportunity. For example, the pathway of the old Ngaruroro River shifted and became exposed after a significant flood in the 1860. Sub-regional differences are emerging and can be tasted in some wines, vineyard and soil combinations the most important contributor to this idea. For example, stony, silty and gravelly soils in and around Roy’s Hill and the Bridge Pa Triangle build up and store an immense amount of heat during the summer ripening period, the resulting wines often show a core of ripe fruit characters, firm tannins and stony mineral flavours. Conversely, in the southern part of Hawke’s Bay where the soils are a lot more limestone based, wines show finer fruit flavours with higher natural acidity and a finer, chalkier tannins. On the coast around Te Awanga, the salty air and stony, sandy soils seem to promote a saline taste on the palate (more through whites than reds), there’s finesse and charm in the wines as well as a bold fruit statement that can be discovered in many of the wines. The red blended wines of the region (sometimes referred to as Bordeaux Blends) feature Merlot, the Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon and often Malbec and Petit Verdot. The best of those produced have a powerful fruit profile, ripe and bold textures on the palate displaying very expressive and abundant tannins, plenty of acidity and oak. Some of the best examples have come from plantings on the Gimblett Gravels soils. In better vintages, Syrah from this region are as good as any you’ll find from its counterparts in France and the New World. With a core of red fruit, spices, significant acidity and tannins to match – these wines can be exceptional. The emergence of Chardonnay specialists in the region has highlighted the versatility and importance of this variety to the wine sector and Hawke’s Bay. Wines with texture, finesse and personality are a testament to the versatility of the region and its importance to the New Zealand wine story.
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VIDAL SOLER HAWKE’S BAY SYRAH 2017 A striking intensity in the bouquet that calms revealing complex layers of flowers, dark berries, spices and smoky wood. Garrigue and peppery sweet meat aromas are layered between raspberry and black currant, violets and whispers of wood smoke. Very expressive on the palate with an abundance of chalk and crumbled stone textured tannins, back bone of acidity, nicely weighted with a core of fruit, wood spice and baking spice, dried meats and wood smoke. A long finish offering excellent drinking now and through 2025. I recommend you decant for service. Points 98 RRP $34.99 Distributor: Vidal Estate Phone: (06) 879 7602 www.vidal.co.nz
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TRINITY HILL HOMAGE HAWKE’S BAY SYRAH 2017 There’s no mistaking the intense and layered perfumes of this wine. From violets and dark berries to sweet vanilla oak to stony soils fragrances there’s a lot to take in on the first breath. Dark berry aromas of black cherry to dark raspberry are set against aromas of black pepper and new liquorice straps. Plentiful chalky textured tannins and pure almost piercing acid line. The concentration of fruit off-set by oak and texture lead to a lengthy and complex finish. While I would happily drink three glasses of this wine today, it is best left till 2021 to start enjoying. Best drinking from 2021 through 2028. Points 96 RRP $145.00 Distributor: Lion NZ Phone: (06) 879 7778 www.trinityhill.com
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Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas. 10 THE SHOUT NZ – MARCH 2020