[ tasting notes ]
Future Chardonnay By Cameron Douglas MS THE STYLE, shape and form of Chardonnay is changing. Yes, there are the predictable ‘traditional’ expressions still popular and available – creamy, fruity, oaky and buttery. Yet, like many wine styles, Chardonnay must also evolve. Evolution and change in Chardonnay styles, from New Zealand in particular, are inevitable. Mainly because viticulture and winemaking itself is responding and changing to conditions in weather, soil, environment and even market demands. This suggests that all grapes are affected by these changes, and that would be right. Chardonnay is eccentric and really likes things to be the same in the vineyard, with little variation in growing conditions from one year to the next. In market, competition for excellent and affordable Chardonnay is becoming tougher. In order to reproduce traditional expressions under changing vineyard and growing conditions, as well as keep the price the same or similar, winemakers have to deploy and engage different approaches in the winery. The costs of winemaking are increasing and so must the price to customers. Otherwise the quality will decrease. More tricks are used to recreate taste profiles, which is not good for wine or Chardonnay. Vineyard practices have had to change also, because vineyard conditions are changing. Climate change - even a small amount - has an affect on plant life and viticulture is no exception. Disease pressure, for example, can arrive earlier or later in the season; canopy management is changing as well due to hotter more intense sunlight. Some wine growers/companies are recognising these changes by showing more understanding of style within style for Chardonnay. By disengaging some of the traditional approaches to handling fruit, they are trialling more natural wine practices to learn where acceptable new style can come from (or not). Less preservative (or more), less oak handling, small batch wine making, different yeast strains, concrete eggs. Chardonnay is one of those wine styles that can polarise a wine audience easily. Our role, as wine professionals, is to guide customers to Chardonnay examples that are leading the charge of change, but not too far away from what they are used to.
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FMCG BUSINESS: THE SHOUT - APRIL 2019
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ELEPHANT HILL RESERVE HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2016 Complex, full and rich in scents of soil, oak, spice and fruit. Equally enticing on the palate, youthful too with an oak and fruit core, baked fruits and kitchen spices. Acid and tannins noted. Complex lengthy finish. A wine to cellar or enjoy with wine friends. Best from 2020 through 2026. Points 96 RRP $54.00 Distributor: Procure Liquor Phone: (06) 872 6073 www.elephanthill.co.nz
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SACRED HILL WINE THIEF HAWKE’S BAY CHARDONNAY 2017 Great bouquet of Chardonnay, complex and alluring. Aromas and flavours of baked peach and nectarine, baked custard and raw brown sugar. An abundance of spicy oak, specific and engaging structure with a youthful acidity, oak tannins, weight, warmth and core
of fruit. Full-bodied and powerful wine, lengthy finish and complex. Drinkable now though best from 2021 through 2026+ Points 96 RRP $34.99 Distributor: Quench Collective Limited Phone: (06) 879 8760 www.sacredhill.com
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BRENNAN GIBBSTON CENTRAL OTAGO CHARDONNAY 2016 A very different and exciting bouquet of Chardonnay with a lees and wood smoke beginning, then lemon peel, apple and lemon custard aromas. These ideas follow through to the palate with a seamless transition, abundant acidity and measured use of oak. Well made and lengthy, complex and very individual. Drink now and through 2024. Points 95 RRP $35.00 Distributor: Brennan Wines Phone: (03) 442 4315 www.brennanwines.com