WA S H I N G T O N B E A C O N — A U G U S T 2 0 1 2
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Travel
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Leisure &
How to find fall travel bargains. See story on page 37.
New Hampshire’s lakes, looms and loons quite laid back and you needn’t do your own digging. In fact, southern New Hampshire offers enough pleasant diversions to fill a relaxing week or two.
Manchester, mills and more
PHOTO BY NHDTTD/DAVE SHAFER
Strategically perched on the banks of the mighty Merrimack River, Manchester, the largest city (106,000 people), promotes both its industrial past and its re-invention. The Amoskeag Manufacturing Company dominated the city from 1831 to 1935, when it closed. At its height, 64 mill buildings stretched along both sides of the river for a mile and a half. It was the world’s largest single millyard, bustling with 700,000 spindles and 23,000 looms that rolled out four million yards of cloth weekly. Amoskeag was famous for denims, used in the first patented riveted jeans made by Levi Strauss in 1873. Many of the vintage red brick mill structures from that era still stand, though today they house museums, apartments and businesses. Known as “the city that would not die,” Manchester has reinvented with new entrepreneurs, such as Velcro Brand fasteners, which is headquartered in Manchester. Pick up the walking tour booklet at the Chamber of Commerce and explore the millyard area, including an example of 19th century worker housing, the Mill Girl sculpture, and the Millyard Museum recalling Amoskeag’s glory days (www.manchesterhistoric.org). A video at the museum recounts the millworkers’ grueling, 12hour day in a deafening room with looms throbbing and shuttles bouncing. The See Science A boy and his grandfather visit the beach on the shore of Center is a must-see Lake Winnipesaukee, the largest lake in New Hampshire. for the massive, one-
PHOTO BY NHDTTD/DAVE SHAFER
By Glenda C. Booth Flying out of Manchester, New Hampshire, after our recent visit, my middle-aged seatmate urged me to return to her native state soon, bragging that people from New Hampshire are hardy and resourceful. “We’re not from Massachusetts,” she boasted. “I could dig my own latrine if I needed to.” Hardy is right. New Hampshirites often cite the state’s motto, “Live free or die,” coined by General John Stark, the victor at the Battle of Bennington. Motorcyclists are “free” of helmet laws. Residents are “free” of sales and state income taxes. A Massachusetts neighbor likes New Hampshire because you can buy “serious fireworks” in the state. New Hampshirites’ rugged individualism is symbolized by the state’s 48 jagged peaks over 4,000 feet in height, and the highest peak in the northeastern U.S. — Mount Washington at 6,288 feet. It’s not just the geology that gave it the name, the Granite State; it’s also gritty stoicism, say natives. For visitors, however, the pace here is
The city of Portsmouth hugs part of New Hampshire’s short ocean shoreline. Portsmouth has preserved its colonial architecture and maritime heritage.
of-a-kind, three-million-piece Lego replica of the millworks. It gives an excellent bird’s-eye view of the mill town at its height in 1900. The display is the largest permanent Lego installation at a mini-figure scale in the world. Building it took 200 meticulous volunteers 10,000 hours and the involvement of two master Lego builders. The Currier Museum of Art is the state’s largest fine art museum, well worth a few hours to appreciate its 12,000 American and European works of art including works by Picasso, Winslow Homer, Monet, O’Keefe, and an extensive glass collection. The Currier runs tours to the Zimmerman House, the only Frank Lloyd Wright house in New England open to the public. Low-slung and 1,700-square-feet in size, the early 1950s house resembles a park restroom building, some say. It is one of Wright’s very functional, Usonian-style houses, striking for its square motif throughout and repeated geometry. Wright also designed the garden, furniture and the mailbox. Locals jealously protect the state’s role as host of the earliest U.S. presidential primary every four years. “It’s insanity around here,” said Charlene Courte-
manche of the Manchester Chamber of Commerce. “People are wall to wall,” and we “can easily bump into national television commentators like Diane Sawyer walking down the street.” So you won’t want to leave Manchester without a counter encounter at the Red Arrow Diner, 61 Lowell St. — a favorite of presidential aspirants. “Every politician has been here,” said Courtemanche. Pictures of most of them cover the walls. Accustomed to close, person-to-person politics, locals are likely to chat with you as you chomp down on the diner’s succulent pork pie with gravy, a French-Canadian dish. Top off your meal with a homemade Twinkie. If it’s your first time there, they’ll make it known to all and you can leave wearing a sticker proclaiming, “I’ve been de-virginized at the Red Arrow Diner.” Lala’s, a family run restaurant at 836 Elm St., has a homey Old World feel, with cuisine like beet salad, tripe soup, goulash and stuffed cabbage, all from family recipes. Laslislau Lala fled communism in Hungary in 1990 and chose Manchester because he loves England’s Manchester United soccer team. “I had never heard of New Hampshire,” he confessed. See NEW HAMPSHIRE, page 36