

INTRODUCTION
Welcome to Liquid, a printed, quarterly round up of our weekly Liquid Thinking articles, which offer our commentary and insights into a wide range of drinks-related subjects, some of which will be relevant to your specific area of ‘liquid’ interest.
We’re confident you will find something that resonates or helps you think about a particular conundrum differently.
So for now, grab a drink, sit back and enjoy flicking through the pages.
NEXT GENERATION DRINKS

How are soft drinks targeting generation Z?
FUNGUS AMONGUS
Why is fungi making its way into more and more drinks?


WELCOME, THE HYBRID
What is a hybrid spirit?
BEER BOUNDARIES
How much is too much and where does beer go next?

THE EDIT
Our pick of the 5 most interesting brands this quarter.

22
THE VODKA TERROIR

Why ethical milk might be the future. 28


32
GOOD MILK
36


HOT CHOCOLATE COMEBACK
A category about to heat up?
LUXURY IS BOOMING, BUT WHY?
Why are luxury alcohol brand sales on the rise?
Are we at the cusp of a vodka boom? 40

SELF-IDENTIFYING DRINKS
Diversification is the newest category to hit drink 44

EXTREME FLAVOURS
Are extreme flavours making a come-back and if so, why?
HOW ARE SOFT DRINKS TARGETING GENERATION Z?
It’s a tragic time for all Millennials. We’ve graduated. We’re too old to even be widely slagged off in the media anymore, for anything from a love of avocado, to buying too much coffee. Our purchasing decisions are less interesting, our power to shape the zeitgeist, diminished.

Shiny, new Gen Z are the new darlings of marketing and innovation departments everywhere. And as the first generation born entirely in the digital age – between 1997-2012 – they present a unique challenge and a unique opportunity. And frankly, as half of the generation are still merrily receiving pocket money, they’re probably some of the least squeezed by the cost of living crisis.
Do brands yet understand them? Broadly, Gen Z – or digital natives if you like – are seen as more progressive than those that came before. They’re more politically and socially aware, engaged with everything from sexual and racial equality, to the latest trends. And they’re considered, taking time to look at the options before committing to a purchase.
In short, they can’t be patronised, or talked down to. And that’s something that’s dramatically changing the way the youngest of Gen Z are being spoken to by brands. Let’s not forget, the very youngest of this generation are currently a very tender 10 years old.

TIME FOR A REVOLUTION?
Children’s drinks then, are having a makeover. What’s becoming clear is that brands have adopted a new, more sophisticated language to talk to such consumers. And frankly, they’ve had to. From visual cues to ingredients, children’s' drinks are beginning to look very, very different. And yes, that goes beyond a notable absence of plastic bottles.
Take new British brand, Jamu Wild Water. It doesn’t look much different from some of the ‘pleaseplease-Instagram-me’ pastel-hued hard seltzer and healthier soft drinks aimed at adults. And that’s rather the point. Also, just look at those flavours; Sparkling Raspberry with Elderberry & Mallow, Sparkling Lemon with Dandelion & Nettle and Sparkling Blood Orange & Echinacea. Gone are the single flavour, overly sweet syrups. Here to stay, are more sophisticated and appealing flavour options.

Designed to be a healthy alternative to the usual sugar-laden drinks aimed at children, they’re made with 100% natural ingredients and are preservative free, contain no sugar and no artificial sweeteners. With added vitamins (vitamin C, zinc for immunity support, prebiotics and fibre), they’re of course aimed at the purchasing concerns of health aware parents far more than thirsty kids. Though it has to be said, Gen Z are a health-conscious bunch.
According to its makers, the aim of the brand is to “help children go wild! To help ignite their interest in the outdoors and build a life-long appreciation of the nurturing benefits of nature for mind and body”. So, we see a form of nostalgia – always a theme at the moment – play out again. But its tailwinds this time are pushing us in a forward-facing direction.
PLAYFUL... BUT MAKE IT FASHION
A bit more playful but no less stylish, is Australian brand Aquabud. Another functional drink, its electrolyte-infused water provides vitamin C, calcium, magnesium and zinc to kids aged two and up and again is low calorie and free from anything, say it slowly…. unnatural. Because fizzy drinks are evil, the website suggests, all their drinks are non-carbonated.
But your kid loves fizzy drinks and juice? No problem. There’s a range for that too. Hint is a carton juice like you used to know, but doesn’t actually contain any juice. Instead, its calorie-free, preservative-free, vegan, gluten-free and kosher waters contain fruit essences instead.
US brand Health.Ade has the Pop range, which is designed to satisfy cravings for sugary soft drinks and again, has given the flavours a slight upgrade. There’s Pomegranate Berry, Ginger Fizz, Strawberry Vanilla, Lemon + Lime, Apple Snap and Grape. Skewed at a slightly older demographic, they’re designed for a healthy gut with prebiotics, detoxifying acids and natural antioxidants.
BOTTLED EXPERIENCE
But what about for the older end of this generation that are in their early 20s? Well, it seems to be all about experiences. Though of course, aesthetics – read as, carefully curated work by top branding design agencies – are vital to this consumer, so is action; doing things, experiencing things. Coca-Cola’s solution has come in the form of its first release under its new Creations innovation department.
To put it in their own words, “Coca-Cola Creations will take the iconic Coca-Cola trademark and lend it to new expressions, driven by collaboration, creativity and cultural connections. Through limitededition, sequential releases, Coca-Cola Creations will introduce new products and experiences across physical and digital worlds”. Got that?
Or put much more succinctly by Oana Vlad, Senior Director for Global Brand Strategy: “We wanted to connect with and celebrate the experiences that bring joy to young people today.”
The first product launched is Starlight, “created with the vision that – in a world of infinite possibilities – somewhere in our universe, another kind of Coca-Cola, another way of connecting with each other might exist”. With a reddish hue, the flavour notes of the product are said to be reminiscent of stargazing around a campfire. And there’s a cooling sensation “that evokes the feeling of a cold journey to space”.
LOOKING AHEAD
It's an interesting approach. Coca-Cola knows it has a different job on its hands to build brand loyalty across this infinitely more health-conscious generation, less likely to have routinely sipped sodas as a child, than any other. So it makes sense that it is stepping outside of itself and entering a more conceptual, experiential space. It doesn’t hurt that the ombre, night sky packaging sets it apart too. The Creations team promises further unexpected releases.
It’s abundantly clear that brands are having to move with not just a shift of generations, but a shift in the currency most brands use to attract consumers; aspiration. Is an aspirational lifestyle still about riches and shiny things? Well, some things will endure. But increasingly and especially to younger generations, wealth is about time, health and experiences. Expect more brands, through both their refocused pack design, to offer functional ingredients and more natural flavours, to target a generation unlike any other, both right now and in the future.
FUNGUS AMONGUS
WHY IS FUNGI MAKING ITS WAY INTO MORE AND MORE DRINKS?
From Tik-Tok coffee trends to non-alcoholic beers and better-for-you colas, mushroom drinks are ‘having a moment’. We ask, why is the fungi making its way into more and more drinks?
Ladies and gentleman, we’re living in the age of function over form. Yes, that’s right. Mushrooms may not look like the drinks ingredient we all need. However, functionally, apparently they are.
Said to have medicinal and healing properties, mushrooms are in some ways just the latest iteration of a wellness trend that has been chugging along merrily for the past few years. However, it has to be said, they’ve been a slow burn until now.
What is the cause in mushroom’s sudden rise to mainstream awareness? The culprit is Tik-Tok. Collectively, mushroom coffee posts have garnered over 30 million views on the social media platform prompting numerous recent think pieces on exactly why the drink is trending.
WHEN WELLNESS MEETS SOCIAL MEDIA
Specifically for mushroom coffee – which is made from a combination of coffee beans and powdered mushrooms and can be drunk hot or cold – the ‘why’ lies in its similarity in taste to a regular coffee, minus the detrimental effects of caffeine, but plus a purported number of wellness benefits. Adaptogenic, therefore able to help the body better manage stress, the ingredient is also said to help reduce inflammation, improve immune function, cardiovascular health, gut health and help alleviate fatigue. And, helpfully for mushrooms, flexing your discovery of this magical elixir to your wellness friends, has become a must for those that consume it.
But mushrooms have been popping up in far more than coffee. Launched in late 2020, Fungtn is a 0.5% ABV beer with three varietals all brewed with different mushrooms. From an IPA brewed with lion’s mane, to a Citra brewed with reishi and a lager brewed with chaga mushrooms, all three are said to be medicinal, while also mimicking the taste of alcohol. All the mushrooms selected are myco adaptogens, a class of fungi known for their health benefits and that Fungtn claim have long been used in actual medicines, including those used to manage stress and support the immune system; both particularly apt for these current times.
Aside from their functional value then, one of the other advantages to drinks makers when using mushrooms is their ability to taste like and mimic other ingredients. In other words, they blend in. As with mushroom coffee makers, Fungtn brand creator Zoey Henderson found that their starchiness in fact, was able to help replicate the body and depth of flavour of a regular beer.
BEYOND COFFEE
And it seems for this particular reason, combined with their health properties, mushrooms are now sprouting up in a wider array of drinks types than ever before. Step forward mushroom cola. Plant-based brand Dram has recently launched a mushroom cola inspired by, what the brand believes to be, the first ever printed recipe for cola in American history. It uses a blend of four adaptogenic mushrooms, namely cordyceps, reishi, chaga and shitake. Again, it’s said to target immune support, brain health and gut health, and has a spiced cola taste profile.
Energy drinks have not escaped either. Odyssey Elixir uses somewhat ‘trippy’ packaging for its Sparkling Mushroom Elixirs which are said to enhance your Energy + Focus through the use of “highly concentrated, organic adaptogenic mushrooms”.
A FINE LINE
Psilli mushroom infused sparkling waters come in a range of flavours, all named for their different functional aim. There’s Study Buddy, Brain Boost, Energizer, Bedtime and Good Mood. However, take a look at their packaging design to see that, despite their rather zen wellness-based names, this brand is visually leaning more into mushroom’s other ‘functional’ benefit, if you catch our drift.
And that’s where things become….interesting. Adaptogenic mushrooms are very different from psilocybin mushrooms (magic mushrooms to your friends), but their place when mixed with that other mind-altering stimulant, alcohol, is blurry. Only a few brands have so far combined the two.
Chicago brewer Whiner has created Myco Dose Hard seltzer, made with ginger, citrus, rose petals and reishi, lion’s mane, shiitake, spiralling, cordyceps, turkey tail mushrooms. It doesn’t claim any functional benefits, even if the name does suggest them.
Californian brand Amass also uses a number of mushrooms as botanicals in its dry gin, including reishi mushroom and lion’s mane mushrooms, selected for their umami notes.
And Madras Desert Water has added adaptogenic mushrooms to its Mexican-made RTDs, inspired by Texas’s ranch water serve, itself an ode to Mexico. Get it? The brand says their inclusion is a nod to mezcals past as a plant medicine. It also uses anti-inflammatory herbs and anti-fungal cacti.
Booze brands so far, are also going down the wellness route. But alcohol’s relationship with mushrooms is complex. In fact brands such as new Vancouver-based start-up Clairvoyant, for example, has created a magic mushroom-based pill that aims to treat alcoholism.
WHERE DOES WELLNESS END?
Can booze brands ever claim to truly be wellness aids however? It’s doubtful. But as the use of mushroom accelerates in the non-alc sector and mainstream awareness begins to build, expect more full-strength brands to attempt to claim a piece of its wellness halo.
For now however, where we see mushroom really flourishing is in alcohol-alternatives, whether brands choose to utilise it for its umami taste, its ability to create body and simulate the texture and flavour of full-strength liquids, or its wellness and medicinal qualities. New functional drinks will also continue to emerge and expect the ingredient to be applied to just about every drink type you can think of. Mushroom tonic water? Why not?
Do mushrooms have any hurdles to overcome? Beyond the clued-in bio-hacker crowd, mushrooms do run the risk of sounding unappealing flavour-wise and still have a PR job on their hands when it comes to educating consumers on the ‘why’, as well as the ‘how’, of drinking them. Yet, as the mushroom coffee trend shows, as more and more consumers look to naturally treat the stresses on their mind and body in ways that easily fit in with their lifestyle, they offer a convenient, social-media cool solution. And convenience and social media remain king. Well, if a mushroom is imbibed in a coffee, but no-one is around to see it, has it really even been imbibed?
WELCOME,
WHAT IS A HYBRID SPIRIT?

THE HYBRID
Modern Scotch whisky brand Monkey Shoulder has done a curious thing. It has launched a new product that isn’t quite a whisky and isn’t quite a rum. No, Fresh Monkey claims to be a world-first innovation described as having the depth and body of a whisky, but the versatility of a rum. But do hybrids solve a problem, taking a brand into new occasions and to new consumers? Or in trying to be all things to all people, do they risk being not enough of one thing for anybody?

Monkey Shoulder, you have our attention. This week the brand announced the launch of Fresh Monkey, a spirit made especially for mixing. The product in its simplest terms is described as a blended grain spirit, that is intended to have the versatility and freshness of a light rum, but with the depth and delicate malty finish of a whisky. In the words of the brand, the launch is intended to create endless cocktail possibilities, taking the brand where the blended malt on its own, just can’t go.
But what specifically is it? According to the brand, the liquid is a mix of three new make spirits – two grain spirits and one Speyside malt spirit – that have been blended unaged and fresh off the still. The technique it’s claimed gives the blended grain spirit the richness of classic malt notes, with the vibrant tropical and grassy notes of an Agricole rhum. Got it?
NEITHER ONE THING, OR THE OTHER
Brian Kinsman, master blender for Monkey Shoulder, explains:

“We’re always looking for ways to mix things up. Just like we did when we first launched our Monkey Shoulder Original, which unlike the rest of the Scotch Whisky category, was made for mixing. Now, we are breaking new ground once again with the launch of a new Blended Grain Spirit.
When developing Fresh Monkey and testing it in many of the top bars around the world, our aim was always to create a unique and refreshing liquid, whilst allowing bartenders to have fun with it. We’ve found that Monkey Shoulder Original and Smokey Monkey are perfect mixers for aged spirit cocktails, and so with the launch of Fresh Monkey, we have also added a light spirit for bartenders to play with.”
JUMPING ON A TRENDING CATEGORY
Okay, in many ways, that makes sense. Brands above all want to be present in the highest number of bars, menus, occasions etc. If your sole product line is limiting your ability to do that, then sure, create something that expands the brand’s capabilities and takes it somewhere.
However, Monkey Shoulder’s approach is an interesting one. The product is not, nor has anything to do with a rum. It is essentially, a punchy new-make spirit, that is, the first baby steps towards a whisky. So the company isn’t veering too far from the brand here. But by sexing it up with the mention of a rum and trying to piggyback on that category’s current success, does it risk the reputation of whisky?
IS WHISKY NOT ENOUGH?
You see, by describing the product’s versatility and likeness in flavour to a rum, Monkey Shoulder is in one way indicating their innovative approach to spirit making. Yet in another, it is holding a big neon sign over the flaws of whisky; that it’s not versatile enough when it comes to cocktails. So where does that leave the rest of the brand? A brand that has crusaded to prove the versatility and mixability of rum.
Monkey Shoulder is going to have to tread carefully in its marketing to consumers and the on-trade if it isn’t to dial-up the perception that whisky, a) isn’t enough and b) isn’t right for the occasions that rum is a perfect fit for. Will consumers think it’s a rum? Will they care that it’s not? For consumers with a base understanding of spirits, it might be a challenge to explain.

However, Fresh Monkey has already heavily ‘leaned-in’ to the tropical vibes. Yes, that’s some undefined tropical foliage on that bottle label, that somehow manages to evoke sugarcane.
Will this innovation work? Or will the product be confined to the dusty back bar shelves once the fad for all things tropical begins to subside? Fresh Monkey may have been designed to challenge category norms, but it may also challenge the category.
HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH AND WHERE DOES BEER GO NEXT?
Experimentation, pushing the boundaries and changing perceptions; innovation was the driving force of the craft beer uprising, a movement that revolutionised the category, bringing new consumers and a multitude of new producers to it. But has the market now splintered itself into identity oblivion?


It goes like this. Beer, a drink with thousands of years’ worth of history, at one point, fell into a deep rut. Once an essential part of daily life, cask beer had become perceived as either old fashioned, warm, bland and the preserve of old men sat nursing it in pubs with yellow walls. Or else, in the case of lager, it was the bland, watery liquid that fired up football hooligans and domestic abusers, produced at scale by large multinationals. Neither was good. Both marketed themselves to men only. And both were arguably devoid of passion, quality and dynamism.
Then a curious thing happened. Young US brewers inspired by their travels across Europe returned with ideas to update, reinterpret and re-craft classic styles, morphing them into something new and crucially marketing them in unisex packaging that welcomed everyone in. The rest, as you know, is history, as the idea bubbled across the world to
other key beer markets, who simultaneously both tore up, sometimes embraced and rewrote the rule book. And ultimately influencing other categories to go ‘craft’ by emphasising the passion and the process behind them.

Was it all a great success? Largely. Though after the initial rush to market by would-be brewers everywhere, droves of early players were either bought up by the large companies they positioned themselves as the antithesis of in the first place, or else they folded, unable to run a viable business in a saturated market. And that was just the first wave.
AN IDENTITY CRISIS?
Now, a good 15-20 years on from when the revolution started, where are we? Has it now burned itself out? Or even worse, is the craft beer movement suffering more than an identity crisis, but a complete lack of identity?
The thing is, craft – something that has eluded an official definition everywhere but in the US – has lost many of its key calls to action. Morphing from a movement to a marketing ploy, what does the category really now stand for, when half of the products on the shelves are owned by the players they originally rallied against?
It’s a well-trodden argument by beer purists, but do consumers in general looking for a tasty, reasonably priced, cool-looking beer really care? Arguably not. But as they category has fragmented, its also become increasingly hard to shop. Firstly, beer styles have ever fragmented, into some that don’t truthfully make any sense.
A FRAGMENTED MARKET
A black pale ale shouldn’t and cannot be a thing. Innovation such as hard smoothies, pastry beers, double and imperial IPA’s, have kept things interesting, pleasing avid fans. Meanwhile a plethora of fruity flavours aims to stave off the onward march of RTDs, though it has yet to be seen how successfully. But with a total absence of packaging cues across the category, innovation and fragmentation has also made it incredibly hard to shop.
From a million cans with clouds in pastel hues, to cartoon spaceships, skulls, typewriter fonts on mono-coloured backgrounds and countless geometric patterns, browsing the shelf doesn’t make too much sense visually.
WHERE DOES IT GO FROM HERE?
However, the question is, where does the category go from here? Once forging ahead independently and creating its own trends, it's arguably now a follower. Previously known for full flavour and heavy hops, brands such as Beavertown are now backing down and aligning themselves with the wider drinks market. The brewer has just launched its Sunlight Lite Lager, which is not only 3.8%, but deliberately light on hops in order to be sessionable and easy drinking.
There’s no doubt, trends towards moderation and wellbeing have gone against the category in many ways; now that it is forced to meld itself to meet the demands of the day, what does it really stand for?
However, in some ways, they’ve not had to. With the onset of the pandemic, brands had to migrate from a physical presence on shelves, to a digital one. Being instantly visibly identifiable as coming from a particular brewery took prominence over helping consumers navigate the category. To stand out and be found by consumers, brands were relying on a loyalty to themselves only. Now that consumers are back browsing shelves with offerings from a number of brands, many hope that loyalty will hold.
The category needs to focus on a cohesive direction that makes sense with what the category now claims to stand for if it is to keep any distinct identity. There’s no doubt, that craft identity has so far proved lucrative. Will it take an old or new player to do it? Many of the biggest craft brands, from BrewDog to Camden Town have lost their credibility in calling out quality and independence issues among mainstream brands. And many others are going to find their premium priced beers a harder sell in the current squeeze on disposable incomes.
So maybe it will take a new player, focused on liquid alone to bring the focus back to what craft beer is and should be; a nimble, pioneering category, focused on delivering the best possible brew.

THE EDIT
OUR PICK OF THE 5 MOST INTERESTING BRANDS THIS QUARTER
It is nearly impossible to keep abreast of every launch and every product in the market across categories, but we try our best. Here are the 5 stand out brands that we are watching with interest.
Spacegoods
Having tried several different mushroom-based drinks in the past we can safely say that Rainbow Dust is one of the better ones. It doesn't taste ‘earthy’ at all and is nice hot or cold. Blend it with milk and ice to have cold, or add hot water and a splash of milk for a tasty, not too sweet, hot drink in the morning.

Delgados
Delgados is the latest canned RTD chasing the tequila gold rush and doing it with a suitably retro inspired 70’s travel essence. If you’re interested in experiencing a dreamy laid-back feeling that captures the ultimate Mexican get away, then Delgados is for you.

Alt
Launched with the bold claim of enhancing human potential, ALT is designed as a self-improvement THC liquid supplement to help you feel better. The liquid promises to be a highly adaptable, zero calorie, zero sugar, flavour neutral enhancement that can be added to any beverage.

Plink
Surely one of the most Zillennial drinks on the market. Tapping into so many consumer trends it feels like Plink might just eat itself. For those of us on the constant look-out for the next big thing, Plink demonstrates the ongoing interest in non-liquid drinks and is clearly another option for those looking for more sustainable drinks option.

Mirchi
Mirchi (spice in Urdu) is a natural blend of African and Caribbean spiced rums, created by two friends of Ghanaian and Pakistani heritage. With its citrusy scent, fruity, smooth and earthy flavours, Mirchi is a fresh approach in the rum category.


ARE WE AT THE CUSP OF A VODKA BOOM?
‘Great’ vodka has long been defined as a drink prized for its total neutrality. Yet in recent years, brands have been making a push towards characterful liquids, offering botanicals or an authentic taste of their raw ingredients. Now, as locality, the sourcing of ingredients and the details of the raw materials matter to consumers more than ever before, a wave of brands are focused on offering products marketed on their terroir. But for vodka, is that really a thing?

Well, this is an about turn. If you’ve followed the lifecycle – the great highs and the deep lows – of the vodka category you’ll know how at its peak in the 1990s, it wasn’t the craft, the origins nor the taste that excited consumers and marketeers alike. No, it was the total lack of it.
Vodka was prized and praised for tasting of nothing at all. Until it wasn’t. Following a flavour boom where among the raspberry, peach and vanillas, we saw everything from olive to birthday cake flavours launch, and the category had exhausted itself, starting a long period of sales decline.
But now, something interesting is afoot. Over the past five or so years, many makers have been trying to boost the category and reverse its fortunes, by taking the opposite approach, taking it from something designed for mixing to something to sip.
CHARACTER IS KING
For a raft of makers, vodka has become all about character, while explaining its raw ingredients has become a key part of marketing. From those distilled from milk whey, to those crafted from sweet potatoes or quinoa, the sourcing has become just as important as the ingredients themselves. Just look at brands such as Black Cow (distilled from the milk by-products of cheese production), to Fair’s Quinoa (made from organic, fair trade quinoa), and Hangar One Fog Point Vodka (made from captured San Francisco fog), which all use their raw ingredients –and the character they impart – as their core identity.

But now, as the category is rebounding, a number of brands are taking things a step further. For them it’s no longer about the ingredients themselves, but where they come from. And its interesting that some of those pushing terroir are vodkas coming from new producing regions.
UNIQUE INGREDIENTS
Step forward New Zealand. The island nation has seen two vodkas recently launch, that are focused on how the topography and natural resources of the islands have shaped the liquid. Broken Shed whisky has worked with a branding design agency to create a brand world entirely based on its use of pure New Zealand mountain mineral water, spring water, distilled whey sourced from naturally grass-fed cows in New Zealand, and nothing else.

Speaking on the brand to Spirited Zine, Broken Shed master blender Mark Simmonds reflected that due to its remote location, and small domestic market, standing out for its high quality and unique taste is vital to stand out on a world stage. As quoted in Spirited:
“It’s all about balancing the mineral content we get from the South Island mineral water. We have a unique ingredient mix using an unusually high mineral water source, and then 'balancing' that by using a softer spring water. Broken Shed is all about the taste.”
The other New Zealand brand making a push to be recognised for its terroir-driven taste is Cardrona, made in the country’s Southern Alps. It markets itself on the use of water sourced from Mount Cardrona and barley sourced from the Canterbury plains.

YEARS OF REBRANDING
It has to be said, these brands are not the first to focus on terroir to remind consumers of the craft that’s gone into their products. Perhaps the most high-profile brand to have done so is Belvedere, which launched its Single Estate Rye Series in 2017. The series features two distinct vodkasSmogóry Forest and Lake Bartężek, each named after the village of the rye's origin and crafted to capture the definitive essence of their respective terroirs. In fact, it was with this launch that the brand hoped to introduce the vodka industry to the notion of terroirs, which are usually reserved for wines nd champagnes.
Whether terroirs are discernible in the taste of a vodka or not, comes down to personal taste. But as vodkas are made up of so few ingredients, and brands are increasingly filtering products less in order to retain the character, it’s inarguable that brands are now cultivating distinct taste profiles designed to stand out. And more and more brands from markets across the world ware shouting about character, and working to have liquids that taste of something as well as somewhere.

SHIFTING THE MARKET
The bigger question is what this shift has done to the market. Because after years of attempts to redefine and repair the category’s image while other spirits have charged forward with messages of craft and quality, the work is now paying off.
In its full-year results in 2022 announced last month, Diageo announced that its vodkas have clocked double digit growth, increasing volumes by 11%, and growing in all regions.

Craft producers – ralliers against tasteless products since, what, 2007? – are also increasingly embracing vodka as a viable vessel for their, craftsmanship.
It is, in many ways, an obvious step. As the spirits world at large embraced the mega trends of provenance, heritage and quality, and individual brands embraced what makes them unique, vodka really had no choice to adapt, or be left behind. But the reversal of vodka’s fortunes has as much to do with the changing attitudes of consumers too.
More than any other category, vodka is a mirror to what attributes consumers value. Due to its neutrality, it is a ripe forum upon which to reflect the things that now matter to the people that are buying them.
The rise and boom of categories such as gin have done so much to educate consumers on the production of, the ingredients used, and the differences between many, many similar white liquids sat on shelf alongside each other. Vodka is now tapping into that more discerning mindset, and talking about its production to consumers, in a way it really hasn’t before.
As new producing regions come on board, buoyed by the category’s rising tide, expect each to take their own approach to showcasing what is unique about them, from flagging the effect of their climates and typography upon their raw ingredients, to the eco credentials of their sourcing. This will be especially so as the market becomes more crowded and USPs become the prize. Are we at the cusp of a vodka boom? Time will tell. But if we are, terroir will be key.


WHY ETHICAL MILK MIGHT BE THE FUTURE
In the flurry of dairy alternatives, from oat milk, almond and now even potato-derived milks, have we lost sight of what’s important?
Useful – and hugely popular – though such products are, especially for consumers with a dairy intolerance, they do little to actually tackle some of the ethical issues levied at cow milk. As farming practices improve, and the industry addresses and updates some of its more contentious production methods, we ask, is ethically-sourced dairy set to not only make a comeback, but become a super food?
Who knew? Really, who knew that you could milk a potato?
Until Waitrose announced their predictions for food and drinks trends for 2022, certainly the vast majority of us didn’t. But there it was, tipped as a hot new trend, it was touted to be in demand for its low sugar and saturated fat content, as well as, you know, not actually being milk.
Consumers with – and without – dairy intolerances have increasingly moved away from cow’s milk in recent years, seeking instead alternatives that promise to be both more sustainably and ethically produced, as well as lower in fat.
And though most brands add the vitamins naturally occurring in cow’s milk, such as calcium, vitamin D, riboflavin and vitamin A, additional vitamins such as iron are often promised in products such as oat milk. Plantbased products in particular, are of course ‘having a moment’. But it’s a moment they’ve been having for several years now.
It’s not just oat and nuts that are being ‘milked’ in this growing movement. There’s now milk products sourced from everything from bananas, chia seeds, hemp, peas and barley. So, is anything set to change?
CHANGING CONSUMPTION NEEDS
According to data from global packaging company Amcor, most consumers of non-dairy milks actually flit between that and dairy; around 45% of consumers regularly choose both, with exclusively 4% opting for plant-based exclusively. Such data suggests that most consumers still want cow’s milk, or at least choose it for certain occasions and serves; after all, a good cup of tea just isn’t the same with oat milk.
When consumers do make the switch, data from Mintel suggests that one of the key reasons for choosing plantbased milks is their nutritional functionality. Whereas some brands add immunity boosting ingredients and additional vitamins, according to 38% of plant-based milk drinkers its actually high protein claims that they’re looking for, with half of consumers wanting a higher protein content from their plant milks. Yet, this is an area in which dairy has them naturally beat.

NUTRITIONAL ETHICS
So, if nutrition and ethical production are the leading motivator when it comes to purchase, is cow’s milk set to make a return? There’s some brands that are beginning to prove that may be so. Ethical dairy brands in the US and UK are leading a charge to set a new standard in milk production, delivering an all-natural cow’s milk, naturally high in nutrients. No, the repetition isn’t a mistake, we want you to know it’s allnatural, okay?
For example, one leading oat-based brand contains 1g of protein per 100ml, whereas cow’s milk contains 3g.
Other motivations that remain important, are sustainability. Research by IBM indicates that almost 60% of consumers are willing to change their shopping habits to reduce environmental impact. While a quarter of dairy consumers are interested in products that guarantee sustainable farming practices.
Scotland’s The Ethical Dairy uses what it describes as a pioneering new method of production, keeping cows and calves together for five months, instead of just days, allowing them to naturally wean. Though not great for yield - each calf consumes around a third of the milk its mum produces – its much better for the livestock’s welfare, meaning the farm has been able to reduce the amount of antibiotics it usually uses on its herd by 90%; good news for consumers looking for products to be as natural as possible.
In the US, Kind or Ahimsa milk is produced in a way that also allows cows and calves to remain together for longer. The purely grass-fed cattle are allowed to remain together as long as they like, usually for at least three months. There’s no forced pregnancies, use of growth hormones and male calves are kept rather than being sent to the meat industry.
BETTER FOR THE PLANET, BETTER FOR YOU
As far as nutrition goes, organically farmed cow’s milk is said to have a higher concentration of vitamin E, iron and an improved ratio of omega-3 (which has antiinflammatory properties) and omega-6, said to be good for heart health. Cattle that consume more grass also produce milk with a higher amount of protein. These slower, more natural farming practices, that in many ways mark a return to preindustrial farming are obviously not suitable for mass production.
But that’s the point. Dairy is best consumed in moderation, to enjoy its health benefits. Too much consumption can have an adverse effect on health. And that’s true for the planet too. Much of the rejection of cow’s milk has centred on the fact that consumers have begun to reject industrialised farming, from opting for organic products, to rejecting battery henproduced eggs.
The rise of slower, more ethically produced cows milk seems to hold the answer then, for consumers looking to do good for the planet, while consuming products with the most functional benefits. And in a parallel to the drinks industry at large, more enlightened thinking about the role diary should have in our diets, means that consuming less, but consuming better quality looks to be the future. So, move over plant-based milks, cows milk may be set to make a very slow, very steady and incredibly ethical comeback.
strengths of plant-based milks has been their ability to convey to consumers their individual health benefits. And that’s largely come down to strong work by creative branding design agencies and bold, playful pack design that feels compelling, without being preachy. The challenge for emerging ethical dairy brands is to convey their free-range credentials and their benefits, in a clear, appealing way entirely separate in visual identity from both plant-based products and less ethical dairy, while also embracing eco-materials. Anything less, risks being lost among the flurry of yet more
However, health credentials alone are not enough. One of the

A CATEGORY ABOUT TO HEAT UP?



Comforting and indulgent, hot chocolate has hardly bothered with innovation and trend chasing; well, if it ain’t broke… However, as consumer interest in the category heats up, we ask, isn’t it time drinks makers shook things up a little?

When was the last time you made yourself a comforting cup of smooth chocolatey goodness? When it was winter? At Christmas? Or - with hard-tofollow instructions to turn into something palatable - never?
Delicious though hot chocolate can be, it’s a category that has arguably been overlooked and overshadowed in recent years, as calorie conscious consumers opt for functional drinks such as coffee and tea when seeking out a hot beverage.
With strong seasonal associations, it’s a drink that has struggled to break out of its key winter-consumption occasion. And what’s more, at-home products have always had something of a quality issue. That is to say the expectation of a rich, velvety, comforting drink, is often dashed as products fail to mix properly, quantities of milk or water added to the mix are hard to judge and somehow products never quite seem to match the hot chocolates enjoyed out-of-home.
RENEWED INTEREST
Yet, it’s a category that is also receiving renewed consumer interest; in fact, lockdown led to a resurgence for hot chocolate products, as homebound consumers sought out comforting, hot milky drinks. And with a hybrid of at-home and office working now the norm, consumers are embracing new occasions, forming new habits and looking for greater flavour and product exploration in the home. According to Kantar, the category grew by 13% in volume in the UK to the year to 27 December 2020, something it also credits to new consumers entering the category.
From a hot chocolate point of view, what’s the answer to this new and growing demand? What can the category do to make itself more interesting and frankly, make the product better? As with seemingly most categories, firstly, there’s flavours.

FIRST UP, FLAVOURS
Though hot chocolate has hitherto been largely immune to following trends, there are signs some brands are now embracing trending flavours. Step forward UK coffee and tea producer Whittard, which has recently and curiously, jumped on the tropical flavour trend, with the launch of a Piña Colada White Hot Chocolate.

Promising to “transport you to the tropics in just one sip” – and extend hot chocolate consumption beyond the colder months – the limited-edition is a summer special and is said to have notes of creamy coconut and zingy pineapple. The brand’s other current seasonal is Cookies and Cream and its line-up of other current flavours includes Peanut Butter, Chilli, Mint, Orange, Banoffee Pie, Raspberry Ripple, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Ginger and Marzipan. Here too, dessert inspired drinks are having a moment.
KEEPING IT COCOA
Next up, brands are also following dietary trends, in a bid to cater for health conscious and vegan consumers. Australianbased confectionery brand Nomad Chocolate for example has combined the creation of a vegan, gluten-free, dairy free and preservative free brand, with a deeper exploration of cocoa itself. The brand calls out the flavour complexities of cacao grown in different regions across the world. Exploring terroir is a new area for the category, but taps into consumer desire for connoisseurship, exploration, traceability and goes some way to helping hot chocolate catch up to rival categories such as coffee, where a focus on the bean varietals and country of origin has long been a focus, highlighting to consumers what to expect flavour-wise and signalling quality. Expect more brands to promote themselves using this barista-style approach.
FUN, BUT MAKE IT FUNCTIONAL
There are signs that the category is moving into the much-hyped realms of functionality too; a move that at first glance makes sense when you look at its competitor set. Products such as Laird Superfood Hot Chocolate includes functional mushrooms, specifically maitake, reishi and chaga and has been designed as a healthier alternative to caffeine. More may follow suit, but are consumers really looking to hot chocolate in their health-conscious moments? Is its primary role not to be an indulgence?
MISSING A TRICK
What to do then for a category that frankly seems to be undergoing somewhat of an identity crisis? The next move for hot chocolate should be to play to its strengths, while also addressing its weaknesses. First up and it seems a simple approach that hasn’t yet been addressed by any major brand, is to dial up the very thing people
are looking for in the first place. And it won’t stagger you to know, that’s chocolate.
Hyper chocolatey hot chocolates are not yet a thing, but they should be. With so many consumers experience of at-home products resembling something vaguely similar to dish water with a slight chocolate note and even cereals doused with milk beating them on their chocolatey credentials, it seems an obvious place to start when it comes to changing perceptions. In fact, chocolate brands that have become known for their rich, flavourful chocolate are ripe to lead the charge here. Tony’s Chocolonely, won’t you come out to play?
Next up, mouthfeel. One of the key things at-home hot choccies lack, is a thick satisfying mouthfeel. But they need it. Nitro hot chocolate anyone?
Is there a role for canned ready mixed products with a widget that can be heated up at home while still retaining their body? Much as coffee pod machines have become a kitchen staple, is there cause for a dedicated hot chocolate making gadget? If launched by and attached to a particular brand, they could lead a powerful charge to change the experience of consuming hot chocolate in the home.
All in all, hot chocolate has been an overlooked and ignored category for too long. But it shouldn’t be. The consumer demand is there and growing. Yet the methods and options to vastly improve it seem well within reach; but who will be the first to try?

WHY ARE LUXURY ALCOHOL BRAND SALES ON THE RISE?
The past few years have been an economic rollercoaster for us all. Yet, sales of luxury spirits are on the up. With the cost of living crisis heating up, we ask why? And will it last?
In times of crisis, we reach for comfort. Often in liquid form. But in times of economic crisis, we tend to tighten our spending. So you’d be forgiven for thinking that unnecessary luxuries – the ones that enhance but aren’t necessarily vital to our daily existence – would be the first thing to be curtailed. Yet so far, when drinks are concerned, that just hasn’t happened.
We may be in the early stages of an economic shitstorm, but consumers have not only been reaching for drinks, they’ve specifically been reaching for luxury drinks. As the cost of living spirals and inflation rises faster than wages, why, and will/can this continue?
SPENDING ON THE RISE
To answer that, let’s track how and when the growth of luxury spirits has unfolded thus far. Between 2015 and 2020, volumes of luxury spirits (defined as $50 plus) in the US increased by 125%, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS). And as the pandemic took hold sales of super premium spirits – those priced $200 and up – began to climb substantially.
According to data published by Reuters in August 2021 sales of such super premium spirits were the fastest growing segment in the spirits market, growing by 9%. The data from the IWSR data also showed that sales of 750ml bottles of drink priced USD $200 and over, are expected to grow 9.3% annually to 2025, outpacing lowerpriced drinks.
By comparison, sales of $10 bottles are predicted to grow by just 0.8%. And companies such as Beam Suntory have also predicted that more than half of its revenue will come from premium drinks by 2030. But what’s driving it?
LIVING IN THE MOMENT
Back then, the theory was simple. Consumers deprived of other joys during the lockdown invested substantially in the fun things they could do at home. At home mixology was the cause of much premium spirits growth according to Bacardi, as consumers sought more adventurous, premium spirits to sip and mix with. With consumers filled with a renewed sense of living for the moment, spending a little extra on their drinks shelf was something they did with enthusiasm according to Diageo.
DISCUS reported a 47% increase in sales of spirits priced $50 or more in the third quarter of 2021 compared to the same period in 2020. According to its Luxury Brand Index (LBI), 2021’s volume growth was more than double the average 18% annual rate over the previous five years. Now out of lockdown, what was the cause? Again, in the face of travel restrictions and even some lingering difficulty in heading out to a restaurant or bars, consumers continued to invest in upgrading their home drinking.
NOT YET TRADING DOWN
Fast forward to 2022 and DISCUS reports sales of luxury spirits rose by 37% in the first quarter compared to 2021’s figures. And according to Diageo, despite the mounting cost pressures, consumers are not yet trading down, as data shows other luxuries are already being cut out, such as clothing purchases. Announcing its results to the year ended in June, it credited around half of its 21.4% sales rise in part to higher prices, but also to consumers migrating to more expensive drinks categories. Sales of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, for example, rose by 31%. According to Diageo, consumers at all demographics were buying into the high-end category, to celebrate special occasions with something of quality, as well as the continued rise of at-home cocktails.

WHERE NOW?
So, what does the future hold? Look back to the financial crash of 2008 and consumers trading down to cheaper categories. But the overwhelming feedback from most major drinks multinationals is that so far, this hasn’t yet happened.
One train of thought suggests luxury brands may further get a boost as consumers begin to cut back on socialising out of the home, choosing to invest instead on having as premium an experience as possible, in their homes.
Replicating the quality of on-trade serves is something many consumers began to explore during Covid-19 lockdowns. Now with a little practice, they’re better equipped to switch back to home socialising should they choose to. Which sounds somewhat rosy for spirits makers.

SUSTAINABLE GROWTH?
Expensive purchases can’t be sustainable in a world of shrinking incomes, but perhaps more pertinently, there is very real fear about each individual’s financial future. The bullish confidence of spirits and fine wine makers now, and the willingness of
consumers to part with their cash, may not hold up under such pressure. Because though consumers may still seek out high quality when they do make a purchase, the frequency of such purchases may be about to fall off a cliff.
Can reduced purchases at the upper end, be evened out as some consumers trade down and purchase lower priced products more frequently? Probably not. Either way, it feels like the industry is heading for a period of readjustment. History tells us that alcohol is considered essential in times of turbulence, but even consumers with a taste for quality, may not be able to sustain it this time around.
SELFIDENTIFYING DRINKS
DIVERSIFICATION IS THE NEWEST CATEGORY TO HIT DRINKS

The tried-and-true formula of being a specialist and sticking to what you know is no more. To truly stand out in this world of fast-paced innovation, it seems that tearing up the rule book is the way to go. As brands step outside of their traditional categories to create new liquids, we ask why diversified portfolios are becoming the ambition of some of the biggest brands.
Reputation and quality are everything in a drinks market that is becoming increasingly premium. Heritage and provenance then have therefore traditionally been the calling cards for some of the biggest drinks brands in the world when it comes to asserting their credentials. Essentially, tapping into a rich, storied brand history and referencing the years of acquired expertise and specialisms that you as a brand have acquired, have long been the go-to method used by brands to assert that they’re the best. You should trust them.
Yeah, nah. Now the market has moved on. From gin makers flipping to make vodka and whisky, liqueur makers now making gin and whisky makers inventing and producing entirely new liquids, the latest trend is to step entirely outside of what you know and switch categories.
Right now, brands are making surprising moves. Amaro brand Stambecco's latest NPD is new Tiramisu flavour. The launch isn’t entirely out of leftfield, hailing from Torino which is said to be the Italian capital of coffee. And as previously mentioned in Liquid Thinking, Monkey Shoulder tore up the rule book entirely earlier this summer with the launch of Fresh Monkey, creating a new style of spirit made from a mix of two new make grain spirits and one Speyside malt spirit. Its aim was to straddle the line between a rum and a Scotch, taking the brand more into the cocktail moment with an easily mixable liquid.
And what comes to mind when you think of the cream liqueur brand Amarula? I bet you it’s not gin. But that’s exactly its new direction. Launched under the tagline ‘When was the last time you tasted something for the first time?’, the Distell brand keeps the core brand’s DNA by using the indigenous subSaharan African marula fruit to make its base spirit.

SURPRISING MOVES
The move is all the more surprising when the dominant trend at the moment seems to be the noticeable move by a number of gin brands to diversify their portfolios. Most recently Hayman’s – a family-owned gin maker with over 150 years of gin production behind them – entered the vodka category, with an eco-friendly launch called Respirited that makes use of neutral grain spirit from its production processes that would otherwise have gone to waste. Craft gin maker Portobello Road has now also launched several vodkas under its core brand. And Silent Pool has also recently launched its first non-gin, a rye whisky.
Woodcutter’s Daughter Whisky, is said to be the first whisky to be made in Surrey and according to the brand was inspired by both the Surrey Hills countryside, which makes sense, and the metropolitan dynamism of New York, which is a bit more surprising. Using a blend of east coast and Surrey grains, its intended to blend international whisky making traditions. But who will its core customers be? Intentionally, not its regular gin drinkers. One look at the pack design immediately makes that clear. Gone is the distinctive blue bottle, while the creative branding agency used has made a clear decision to not feature the Silent Pool name too overtly. Essentially, it stands on its own.

GIN, IS IT A DIMINISHING FORCE?
Though gin is undoubtedly still a force to be reckoned with, it is interesting that most of the category switch-ups occurring across the industry right now are coming from gin makers. Indeed, according to data from the Grocer’s recently published brands report, many of the biggest gin brands are now beginning to report marked sales declines; Gordon’s dropped 15% in value, while Bombay Sapphire dropped 34.2% in value to the year ended 30 April. Conversely, categories such as vodka are on the up.
It seems that brands across the industry are realising the value of a diversified portfolio, where consumer attention spans can be short and loyalty hard to win in a market place this fast-moving. Whether selling themselves on their novelty, launching limited edition flavours to garner attention and remind
consumers of their presence, or jumping categories entirely to pull new consumers into the brand, spread betting is a safeguard against the peaks and troughs of the market.
DILUTING A BRAND?
But it is also nothing new. Who remembers both Smirnoff and Stella Artois ciders? Though shortlived, they at the time demonstrated brand makers next best guess on what booming categories to piggyback on. The question is, does such flipflopping across categories ultimately damage and dilute the core brands and their hard won sense of identity? If flops quietly disappear there’s an argument they don’t. And there’s a chance they could instead soar.

For consumers however, it can be a confusing prospect. Silent Pool’s decision to not cash in on its already well-known brand name and instead build a new brand entirely for its whisky, seems a safeguard against such confusion. It’s a longer, harder path to build a brand from scratch, but when the product is this different, it’s also a shrewd move.
For the brands that are launching products under their same brand names or identities, there is a ‘watch out’; if the product is no good, it can impact perceptions of the parent brand. The answer as usual lies with quality. Any brand hopping categories must be sure the new product matches the value and quality cues of its core products or risk losing long fought for loyalty.

ARE EXTREME FLAVOURS MAKING A COME-BACK AND IF SO, WHY?

From hot chilli liqueurs to spicy rosé, consumers and drinks makers are getting increasingly spicy. Yes, things are heating up, with ingredients such as jalapeños and hot spices increasingly finding their way into products where they really have no business. So why is it that we’re all craving a little fire?
As summer fades into autumn, it seems that consumers across the world aren’t quite ready to say goodbye to a little warmth just yet. Yes, temperatures may be getting cooler, but it seems our drinks are getting hotter.
A flurry of hot and spicy spirits launches have recently been followed by some rather unlikely flavour pairings, as the trend for extreme flavours has migrated to social media. Yes, for the most recent drinks curiosity we look again to Tik Tok, where a craze for adding sliced green jalapeños to a glass of chilled rosé wine has become an international taste trial taken on by enthusiastic imbibers. A few brave souls have even muddled the jalapeños before sipping too.
Consumers keen to join in on the craze believed to have been started in the US by influencer @allyssainthekitchen have helped amass almost half a million views of the original post, a number of copycat videos, as well as countless pieces in the media questioning why it is happening at all. Fair question.
BLAME TIK TOK
Anyone who has ever had the misfortune to sip a wine alongside a curry knows that wine and spice are not usually great bedfellows. However, according to those that have tried it, the combination works by helping cut through overly fruity, sweet – dare we say it, cheap – wine, helping reduce any saccharine notes. Or put simply, it helps brighten up and improve a cheap plonk, which is actually fairly useful in these inflationary times.
And alongside a flurry of spicy margaritas on prestigious and non-prestigious bar menus alike, hot and spicy drinks are making their presence felt across a range of products too. Though launched in 2017, its not until recently that younger LDA drinkers in Mexico have truly embraced Smirnoff’s Spicy Tamarind vodka. Described as hot, tangy, sweet, tart and importantly, suitable for shooting, its become a much-loved party drink of late, standing out amid a sea of fruit flavoured spirits.
A MEXICAN HEATWAVE
More recently Mexican spirit Ancho Reyes has been making a push into international markets. Described – without verification it has to be said –as the first spicy liqueur in the world made from chillies, the spirit is inspired by a 1920s recipe from the town of Puebla de Zaragoza, East of Mexico City. It can be sipped alone, as an aperitif or digestive to experience its full heat, or mixed in cocktails for a more subtle jalapeño flavour, as well as a smoky spice with a hint of sweetness. And new whisky liqueur Scorch does what it says on the tin. Using a blood orange and chilli infusion it is said to deliver a dose of heat suitable for shooting, but with an approachable sweetness too.

A TIME FOR SPICE
So, why is this happening now? Are previously cooped-up consumers simply ready to go wild and party? Well, perhaps a little. But the answer may be a little more sensorial. With millions of cases of Covid still being reported across the world, as well as in key drinks markets such as the US and UK, there are growing numbers of consumers whose taste of smell and taste have been impaired. So it stands to reason that demand for bolder, stronger flavours is much greater than it ever has been.

According to UK supermarket chain Sainsbury’s, heat and spice are currently trending. It reports that for example sales of Sriracha sauce have grown by 110% since 2019. Furthermore, it reports that 36% of its shoppers have introduced chilli into their diets over the past two years, while 70% say they now love spicy food.
OLFACTORY STIMULATION

The full effect of Covid on taste and olfactory functions is still not fully understood. However, estimates suggest that around 60% of those who contract Covid suffer from smell or taste impairment, with around 60% of those cases experiencing smell and taste loss beyond four weeks. But for many, the effects last much longer. One in 20 cases are thought to suffer the symptoms for eight months or more.
It's hard to overstake what being locked out of a vast part of how someone sensorially experiences the world, is like for those that are suffering from the after-effects of Covid. And for those that have had their sense of smell and taste dulled, flavours that are highly salty, highly sweet, or highly spicy are easier to experience and register and are therefore infinitely appealing. What does the future hold for bold flavours?
With Covid seemingly with us for the foreseeable, many more consumers will suffer sensory loss. So it stands to reason that the demand for powerful, spicy flavours will only increase. Mexican drinks, from tequila to ranch water, are currently growing in popularity, so expect more Mexican takes on the hot and spicy trend to migrate to other markets. Conversely, localised takes on heat and spice will also ramp up, as brands look for ways to tap into local tastes and flavours that go with specific cuisines.
For as long as Covid is with us, tastes may be dulled, but the future is spicy.


Autumn 2022
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