Textile Today October 2022 Issue

Experience Group

investment behind people and high-end products as key to its success

Usama Maqsood Group Director

Group

Fine grounded, natural micro-particles (clay) with an excellent peroxide stabilizing effect

Very good oil adsorbing effect of mineral and silicone oils

Very efficient adsorbing effects for various organic substances

Very good anti-creasing properties as well Outstanding dispersing effects

Non-ionic detergent

... The ecological detergent based on natural micro particles …

Manufacturing excellence: Road to industry 4.0

Apparel Today

World cotton day 2022 ‘weaving a better future for cotton’

Reducing changeover time in garments sewing line

Work overlapping: a secret disease in the apparel industry

Connecting the dots: fashion and SDGs

Diversification in spinning has a big scope in Bangladesh

steps in Bangladesh with its space and energy saving dyeing machines

Compliance BD Ltd. offers fire suppression system for fire protection infrastructure

Asian market can be a game changer for Bangladesh RMG crisis

machinery is up to 20% cheaper than European machinery”

News & Analysis

Chinese Qinda Outdoor to invest $12mn in Ishwardi EPZ

Gava to invest $25.62mn on RMG sector at Dhaka EPZ

74 Advertorial

SgT opens new laboratory in Bangladesh to support the textile industry with 360° solutions

Deliver a Positive Impact on Climate and Nature

CCI and COTTON USA™ mark ‘Cotton Day 2022’ to speed up positive cotton aspects

Optimizing Draw Frame Performance

Bangladesh has potential to be a winning market in the future

The right spindle to make the difference

Duster Ltd and aeoon Technologies have joined forces to bring DTG printing solutions to Bangladesh market

Printing Today

DTG printing market to reach $1.82 bn by 2032

BTMA concerns over banks avoid LC opening

Murata Vortex Seminar 2022 showcases its groundbreaking sustainable spinning system for the apparel makers

R|Elan™ – Strengthening network in Bangladesh

Ongoing power outage should come to an end

Akhi Akter

The ongoing energy crisis in Bangladesh is hurting households, industries and entire economies. This is in line with the global energy crisis as the whole world is observing a critical energy crisis in recent times, which is worse than the situation that arose out of the 1973 Arab oil embargo.

When the world was getting healed from the worse effect of Covid 19 and fighting with the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war impact, energy crisis has made the situation just as pouring water on a drowned mouse. The Covid pandemic and then the RussiaUkraine war contributed to increase all energy prices. But now situation has turned into a different dimension in Bangladesh. Now most of the people are not getting smooth electricity supply, though they are paying higher prices.

The recent energy crisis is interrupting the daily operation of Bangladesh’s export-oriented industries, especially–textile and garment units. They are being unable to keep their commitment with buyers. Also, manufactures are facing an immense production cost increase which is leading them to face huge losses.

State Minister for Power, Energy and Mineral Resources Nasrul Hamid has announced that there is no hope of progress in the ongoing load shedding situation before November, as gas could not be imported. Though the state minister had earlier made remark that after September, power supply situation would improve and there will be no load shedding from the first week of October.

As the demand for gas from industries has increased, so, the government diverted some supply to them from the power plants. Which leads the recent load shedding across the country, according to some government officials. Though many textile and garments factories are not getting energy properly facing immense load shedding. Some areas in Savar, Gazipur and

Mymensingh are experiencing severe outages.

Recently, one of our competitor countries Pakistan has decided to shut down its 1600 textile mills across the country. Five million employees are losing their jobs and 30 million people will be affected due to the closure of textile industries.

If we do not want to observe such situation like Pakistan, our government should change its strategy regarding energy and power production. In the last February, the Bangladesh Petroleum Exploration and Production Company (Bapex) explored their new plan where they mentioned that they would be able to add 300 mmcf more gas to the national grid by 2023, if they can implement their plan. Their plan should be implemented properly.

Bangladesh government should strengthen the national capacity to produce gas and oil. The gap between gas demand and supply for producing electricity has gone up as the production in local fields is gradually reducing. Now, the government imports LNG to supply around 650 mmcfd gas to the national gas transmission grid. The imports, costing seven to ten times more than domestic gas.

If the government wants to come out from the recent energy crisis, and keen to provide electricity and gas properly at competitive rates to the textile and apparel industry as well as general people, there is no alternative to invest in national companies like Petrobangla, BAPEX etc.

Akhi Akter

Managing Editor

Textile Today

Author:

Editorial

$100 bn apparel export target will lift accessories sector to $15 bn

Textile Today Analysis

The apparel industry has set a target to take its exports to $100 billion by 2030, which will aid to boost the garment accessories and packaging sector to $15 billion.

There are more than 1400 garment accessories and packaging factories across the country. The sector meet 90% of accessories demand for exportable apparels. The calculation can easily be made that the boost of apparel export will simultaneously lift the garment accessories and packaging sector in terms of their productions and exports.

The garment accessories and packaging sector begun its journey in the mid-1980. Corrugated carton product was the very first item, the accessories entrepreneurs begun with. Now the sector manufactures more than 30 garments accessories and packaging items. However, more than half of the factories that had started with manufacturing

The industry commenced in mid-80s making corrugated cartons

Import dependence for apparel packaging was almost 100%

The garment accessories and packaging sector is aiding the RMG industry to attain the 2nd most apparel exporter spot. Bangladesh exports accessories items directly to MiddleEast, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Europe, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos etc.

of corrugated cartons are no longer in business. As they failed to make necessary big investments with technological advancement, entrepreneurs say.

Tk 40,000 crore in the last 15 years has been invested in the sector. The sector exports $500 million worth of accessories last year, according to the sector leader. Bangladesh exports accessories items directly to Middle-East, South Africa, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Europe, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos etc.

The sector is aiding the RMG industry to attain the 2nd most apparel exporter spot. A number of garment factories also invested in the accessories sector like Mondol Group, one of the leading apparel makers, has an accessories factory named Montrims Limited. Also, at least 50 factories, including Envoy Group, Deco Group, KDS, Epyllion, Babylon, Four Group, Sadma Fashion, Onus Group, Designtex Group, and Well Group have accessories factories.

Total active factories: Over 1,400

Accessories sector meets: 90% of the RMG makers’ demand

Vital accessories production: Over 30 items

Workforce: 5 lakh

Garments accessories exports fetched $500 million

Accessories contribute to RMG industry 20pc

Investment: Tk 40,000 crore in the last 15 years has been invested

Major items

Button, zipper, thread, label, motif, pocketing, fabric, lining, interlining, elastic, cord, ribbon, rivet, toggle, collarbone, hanger, Hand bag, Ploybag, sticker, plastic clip, safety pin, and carton.

Remaining challenges to boost garment accessories sector

The sector has the capacity to produce 100% of the accessories and packaging products needed for the Bangladesh apparel industry. Instead of availability of accessories items in Bangladesh, apparel manufacturers—sometimes-- choose China for sourcing accessory products. One of the reasons behind this the cheaper price of Chinese items. Because of a higher price of raw materials caused by import duty combined with the delay of importing have increased the production cost. In this reality, sometimes, local accessories manufacturers cannot offer a lower price than China.

Also, the RMG makers’ imports accessories and packaging products from other countries as sometimes buyers nominate foreign companies, mainly for the fancy items. In that case, RMG millers are paying almost double to source their accessories from overseas.

A.H. Md. Rezanur Sohel, Managing Director, eS Trims Ltd. told Textile Today, “Bangladesh is now equipped to produce all sorts of accessories. RMG factories should stand together to place the orders to local accessories factories at the right price. Accessories factories are not getting the right price for their products, which could lead them to produce more verities of products.”

Possibilities that lie ahead

Accessories entrepreneurs are going for expansion to emphasis more on specialized items such as ornamental laces, hooks, specialized laces for branded garment and special lingerie boxes. Key raw materials for manufacturing accessories are polypropylene resins, paper, printing ink, chemical, carton paper, and zipper metal.

At present, the garment accessories sector is manufacturing smart products like radio frequency identification (RFID) for supply chain tracking and biodegradable packaging. Also, the accessories industry has got barcode stickers and poly stickers in its product list, which were imported from China even in five years ago.

"We have the potential to become a hub for the exports of accessories. Bangladesh also has capability to export packaging of other products to different countries, apart from apparels," Moazzem Hossain Moti, President, Bangladesh

Garment Accessories Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA) said.

The due to fast-changing customer demands – the fashion industry is evolving fast. This new trend

has huge impact in fabric manufacturing and the accessories sector.

Dewan Saiful Alam Masud, Vice Chairman of the Asia-Africa Committee of Hong Kong General Chamber of Commerce emphasized to do more R&D to diversify the products and expand to sell more products with a higher value.

“Though in comparison to our past, we have quite a lot of apparel accessories industries, we are not as dominant in selling higher-end goods due to our quality standards and there are still many buyers who import items from China or Hong Kong. We can try to improve our standard and convince buyers to get those accessories made locally instead of importing them. As a result, our accessories supplier may tap into other apparel manufacturing countries to supply their items instead of only supplying locally,” he said. In the industry more than five lakh people are employed, according to Bangladesh Garment Accessories Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

There are at least 30 companies in the sector with an investment of Tk500 crore each, as per the association.

China-Bangladesh joint-owned company M/s Jinqiu Global Textile Bangladesh Limited is going to set up a garment accessories manufacturing factory at Ishwardi Export Processing Zone (IEPZ) with an investment of $15.63 million. The jointly owned company will produce 25 crore meters and 2 million different types of garment accessories annually. The factory will create employment opportunities for 981 Bangladeshi citizens.

The accessories items Bangladesh produces are included: backboard, neck board, collar bone, collar set, sewing thread, elastic, button, zipper, poly bag, plastic hanger, main label, size label, and care label.

BGAPMEA President said they need support from the Export Promotion Bureau for highlighting the country's competitiveness abroad and a positive attitude of the Customs Department of the National Board of Revenue.

“If the accessories sector is given eight-year period term loan with 4% interest rate to replace the machinery – then it will greatly aid the sector and we can certainly keep pace with the era,” he said.

“BGMEA, BKMEA, BTMA members get incentive on export. Accessories manufacturers do not get such incentive. So our appeal to the govt. is that they should consider the accessories and packaging sector for incentive and long-term loan facility in low interest rate.”

How realistic is BGMEA's export vision

to a large extent on the country's roads, ports, transport and energy. Apart from this, entrepreneurs must keep the issue of political stability in mind.

However, apparel entrepreneurs say that they want to achieve this goal by expanding the market in addition to maintaining the growth of the past few years.

Earlier in 2015, BGMEA announced an export target of $50 billion from 2021, 50 years of independence. However, exports were less than $7 billion.

On the other hand, according to the World Trade Organization (WTO), only 6.26 percent of Bangladesh's garments exported to the world market in 2020. So, the question that arises within the broad spectrum is how realistic the target is?

Textile Today Analysis

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), has set a target to earn $100 billion readymade garments (RMG) exports by 2030. In the fiscal year (FY) 2021-22, Bangladesh exported RMG worth $42.61 billion. In realizing the target of $100 billion export target, the sector has to earn $7.17 billion each year. Against 35.47 percent growth in FY22, the sector also has to post an 11.26% annual growth in export earnings till 2030.

The ambitious target was set at a time when the global economies are bleeding due to the Covid-19 pandemic impacts and ongoing Russia-Ukraine war. Not to mention, competing with rival countries such as China, Vietnam and Turkey.

Besides, the achievement of the target will depend

RMG has to earn $7.17 bn with 11.26% annual growth in export earnings till 2030 to achieve $100bn exports

BD has to compete with rivals like China, Vietnam & Turkey to earn more share in global apparel market

On top of that, in 2026, Bangladesh will become a developing country (DC) out of the least developed country (LDC). Then we will not get quota free benefits in various markets including Europe. At the same time, compliance issues will come to the fore more strongly & productivity should be increased through the use of technology as well as human resource efficiency.

Primary textile sector challenges and scopes

Bangladesh still has shortfall in making the highvalue products that China and Vietnam do. Also, the textile and apparel industry has to diversify the product ranges.

Despite this, the country’s primary textile sector invested a staggering Tk57.90 billion or 745,400 new spindles to their present, as well as, new capacity in 2021 to ensure supply and making high-end fabric. The new investment will increase Bangladesh’s competitiveness in the global apparel market and additionally decrease lead time due to sourcing from local manufacturers. And undoubtedly, having a strong backward linkage industry is a blessing for Bangladesh’s garment industry.

Most importantly, textile millers are investing in polyester fibers known as manmade fiber (MMF) as the demands of goods in this sector is growing steeply.

Accessories and packaging sector support

Bangladesh garments accessories and packaging sector plays a key role in arming the apparel industry to achieve self-reliability and increase export. Now almost 95% of requirements of garments accessories and packaging of RMG and other export-oriented industries are being met up locally.

Figure: Key things in earning the $100 billion RMG export target.

Despite the high success rate, accessories and packaging sector leaders threw caution in the wind.

Moazzem Hossain Moti, President, Bangladesh Garments Accessories & Packaging Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGAPMEA) said to Textile

Today, “Our accessories sector is not in a position to support achieving the target of $100 billion in garments. But if the government gives policy support in the next two years, then it will be possible.”

Elaborating why the accessories sector cannot support fully, he said, “At present, we make around 30 to 32 accessories products. Out of this, we export only 10 to 12 products. Since 2000, we have been helping the apparel sector to achieve its goals.

Moazzem Hossain Moti further added, “The govt. has taken many friendly initiatives to boost the industry’s export which really helped us. Despite this, the unfriendly attitude of NBR is a big challenge for us. They need to adopt a friendly attitude towards the exporters. Only then the textile and apparel industry and the accessories and packaging export will get the real support.”

Duty-free benefits will cease after LDC graduation

Bangladesh will graduate from LDC country in 2026. Then the apparel exports in various markets will not get duty free benefits. Similarly, the issue of compliance will come to the fore in the new GSP facility of the EU.

BGMEA’s plan

Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA expressed optimism. He said, "It is conceivable to attain the $100 billion RMG exports target as we are diversifying the products and markets."

“Bangladesh will mainly rely on three key products, including the export of mid-range garment items, MMF items and technical textile like the uniforms used by healthcare professionals and professionals in other service sectors to realize the export target,” BGMEA President added.

BGMEA leaders said that the work of creating a roadmap is now underway.

The global situation of the garment sector is changing. Many purchase orders have come to Bangladesh especially from China in the last few years. Entrepreneurs want to get more of that now. For this reason, the government and BGMEA have been working for the past few years on which types of factories in China are closing down or which types of products they do not want to produce.

BGMEA is saying that they want to increase productivity by 60 percent and export Bangladeshi garments to all countries of the world by 2030. But there are also questions as to how well it will be able to compete with rivals such as China, Vietnam and Turkey. The demand for manmade fiber (MMF) is now increasing in the global market. There is a $200

Primary textile sector scopes

• Tk 57.90 bn or 745,400 new spindles of investment to cater new demand

• Reducing lead time due to sourcing from local millers

• Manufacturers investing in MMF to produce high-end apparel

Accessories and packaging sector support

• Accessories & packaging sector will boost $15 bn by 2030

• Sector needs policy support to make high-end items to cut import from abroad

• Near 1400 factories providing 95% of requirements of of RMG

• Recently foreign joint venture companies set-up accessories & packaging factories in BD

Upskilling mid-level management

• Factories will need skilled mid-management skills along with workers

Adopting transformation

• Entrepreneurs invested heavily in transforming their factories

• Entrepreneurs visiting good factories of China, Vietnam to reorganize and management setup

• Some owners appointed hundreds of management trainees

Manufacturing textile processing scopes

• Ensuring right policy support like duty-free import of chemicals & giving incentives for local manufacturers

• Leaders opined that ensuring raw material availability & developing skilled software operators is key in processing segment

billion market. And as China moves away from textiles for environmental reasons, they will come to us for good reason.

Abdullah Hil Rakib, Director, BGMEA said, “We have made 9 key points with ESG (Environment Social Governance) in mind at the recent BGMEA logo unveiling program. Ultimately – good governance, sustainability, and efficiency enhancement – are our main crucial performance indicator.”

Upskilling mid-level management

Industry experts say that factories will need mid-management skills along with worker skills, technology development, and finding new markets.

To go for high-end apparel products manufacturing skilled workers and mid-level management will be needed for this. As this is not only about machinery in the textile and apparel industry rather man behind the machine plays a critical role in the industry.

Adopting transformation in factories

The industry entrepreneurs in recent years invested heavily in transforming their factories. Some visionary entrepreneurs are visiting the good factories of China and Vietnam to reorganize and

management setup. At the same time attention has been paid to upgrading the management sector.

Prospect of manufacturing textile processing

Bangladesh is mostly reliant on import to cater the demand for textile chemicals for the dyeing printing and washing factories. But with the increase in the size of the industry, now there is huge potential to manufacture textile chemicals in Bangladesh.

Industry experts have opined that the govt. has to offer right policy support for the farther growth of textile chemicals engineering in Bangladesh.

Besides govt. support, the attitude of dyes and chemicals users in Bangladesh and the mindset of international brands also have to be transformed towards locally manufactured dyes and chemicals. Using local chemicals will reduce cost greatly.

Keeping the outlook of the dyes and chemical manufacturing in Bangladesh, Bangladesh University of Textiles recently opened a devoted department for creating graduates for textile dyes and chemicals manufacturing. Countless Bangladeshi professionals have a foreign degree and experiences on the subject.

BUFT Textile Club workshop highlights ‘Techniques of Creating Effective Content’

BUFT Textile Club Correspondent

BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology – BUFT Textile Club and Textile Today together arranged a workshop on ‘Content Writing’ with the title ‘Techniques of Creating Effective Content’ – to upskill students writing skills. As day by day competition in the job market is growing immensely. The workshop’s aim was to arm the students with all types of proper skills necessary to acquire success in the job market.

Md. Eousup Novee Bablu, GM – Innovation & Strategy, Textile Today Innovation Hub conducted the workshop.

In his speech – Md. Eousup Novee highlighted that the most crucial aspect of human lives is the ability to understand one another. And communication is the medium through which it is done. In communication, what the audience understood is more important rather than what is delivered.

“It is necessary to use words, expressions, or any other thing for better understanding while expressing oneself,” he said.

Eousup Novee discussed the key aspects of content, he said, “Content is the ultimate key

in communication. Content is a compilation of information, ideas, and messages that are translated into some kind of written, visual, or audible format for others to consume. The content is the subject that must be upheld in the eyes of others. It’s a big concept that transcends words, images, or films,” he said.

Later Chief Guest Pro-VC Prof. Dr. Eng. Ayub Nabi Khan and Club Adviser Md. Anwar Kamal attended the program. And a crest was given to Md. Eousup Novee Bablu on behalf of BUFT Textile Club. While the participants were awarded Certificates. BUFT Textile Club members and students were delighted to attend such a knowledgeable seminar.

Figure 1: Md. Eousup Novee Bablu, GM – Innovation & Strategy, Textile Today Innovation Hub conducted the workshop.

Capacity expansion vs Order crisis

Shedding light on 5 new apparel exporting markets

Textile Today Analysis

Bangladesh's readymade garment (RMG) export has been witnessing order crisis in the recent months due to the global energy crisis, geopolitical adverse effects, rising inflation and rising raw material costs.

As per the data of National Board of Revenue (NBR) – compiled by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) –Bangladesh apparel export incomes plunged 12.36% to $1.72 billion in this 18-day period of September, which was $1.97 billion compared year-on-year.

Sheikh H M Mustafiz, Managing Director, Cute Dress Industry Ltd. said, “We manufacturers are witnessing at least 30% to 35% work order slump. While raw material prices are on the rise. More worryingly, we are receiving less order for the next season. The capacity expansion we have done in the apparel sector will sit idle is this situation persists – adding more burden for the exporters.”

Though the exporters invested to increase their manufacturing capacity in the last few years, but this order crisis has come as a big threat for their

Source:

existence. As a way-out garment industrialists are banking on the growing exports in the nontraditional markets. Which is showing new glimmer of hope in the country’s economic backbone.

Experts opined that despite the worldwide energy crunch, geopolitical hostile effects, and growing inflation – Bangladesh’s apparel exports to nontraditional markets have done well.

According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, RMG exports to non-traditional markets were worth $1.20 billion in the first two months (July-August) of the current fiscal year (FY) 2022-23, witnessing a growth of 38% over the same period last fiscal year. While the total garment exports in July and August of the current fiscal year were $7.11 billion, up 26% over the same period last year. Among them, the share of garment exports to non-traditional markets has increased significantly to $1.20 billion.

“Over the past 2 years, during COVID and in its ongoing phase, exploring new markets had been a major concern for Bangladesh RMG. An early bird always catches the worm and we wanted to ace in the race,” Shehrin Salam Oishee, Director, BGMEA & Envoy Group said to Textile Today.

Industry leaders also opined that the participation of small factories in the export of garments to non-traditional markets is essential. As the small factories of the country are opening a way to play a bigger role in this field.

Comparatively, the order quantities of nontraditional market countries are small. This is one of the reasons why Bangladesh’s big RMG factories avoid taking non-traditional market orders from the beginning. But this is high time to take these orders and move the country forward.

In this article we will try to find out the scopes of some major non-traditional destinations.

Japan

According to BGMEA data, RMG exports to Japan, one of the leading non-traditional markets with over billion dollars export, reached $217.5 million in the first two months of the current fiscal year, up 25.81% from the same period last year.

In FY2021-22, apparel exports to Japan rose $1.09 billion. Indicating that Japan is one of the most promising export destination in Asia for Bangladesh.

With a population of 127.1 million, $36,194 per capita GDP, world 3rd biggest economy – Japan is the world’s third major apparel importer and the fourth biggest apparel market in the world after China, USA and Germany. Japan presents some of the most thrilling fashion and apparel prospects globally for the highly passionate and sophisticated consumers – garment manufacturers now target to gain a bigger slice of the $24 billion Japanese market taking benefit of growing exports to the prospective destination.

India

Apparel exports to India in the July and August of the current fiscal increased by 98.92% to $188.2 million over the same period last year.

While in FY2021-22, apparel exports to India fetched $715.41 million.

The local RMG exporters are tapping the duty-free Indian market access. At the same time, India utilizes Bangladesh’s low-cost production capacity placing many orders come from other nations.

Rubana Huq, Ex-BGMEA President said to Textile Today, “Intraregional trade has historically been under 5% for the longest time. Trade picking up within the region signals a marvelous potential for growth. While western countries are opting for on shoring, it’s commanding for us to also grow exports with our neighboring countries.”

“India is a huge country and we can take advantage of their huge consumer class,” Rubana Huq added.

The shorter lead time is a major cause for increasing garment items to India from Bangladesh, she said.

Usually, it takes between 35 days and 40 days to export goods from Chattogram port to European ports, but the export to India is just crossing the border and it takes only two or three days, exporters said.

Moreover, export to India is possible in multi-model transport modes like railways, trucks and oceangoing ships due to geographical proximity.

Australia

Apparel Export to Australia is $180.40 million with 30.90% growth. The prospectus country has long been a favored destinations for ‘Made in Bangladesh’ fashion apparel.

BGMEA data also showed that in FY2021-22, apparel exports to Australia earned $812.24 million.

$83.72 mn Apparel and clothing accessories

$3.26 mn Lingerie items

$2.59 mn Suits & jackets

$1.98 mn Shirts

Industry owners feel that a big push is needed to increase South Korean market share this year which will be coming from shifting orders from China, Vietnam and Myanmar.

South Korea with its $10.53 billion apparel market can be a preferred export destination for Bangladesh and the apparel sector expects to hit the $1 billion mark export to Korea in the current fiscal year.

apparel

Recently High Commissioner of Australia to Bangladesh expressed that Australia will continue to provide Bangladesh with dutyfree access in its market after the country’s graduation from the LDC category.

Türkiye

In July-August of FY2022-23, RMG export to Türkiye witnessed a staggering 120.85% growth. The earnings rose to $39.25 million.

Bangladesh is a significant trade partner for Türkiye in Textile and clothing. Textile and appeal sector hold a noteworthy portion in Turkish economy – the country exported $33.1 billion worth textile and readymade garments in 2021 which is 15% of the total export. From export figures, the contribution of textile and apparel industry and its importance to the economy of Türkiye can be clearly seen.

$0.28 mn

Babies garments and clothing accessories

$4.93 mn T-shirts $1.22 mn Women's overcoats

$3.25 mn Women apparel items $3.54 mn

$2.71 mn Textile fibers and woven fabrics

South Korea currently sources 34% of its apparel items from China, but due to rising costs, apparel production is increasingly moving out of China, and Bangladeshi entrepreneurs now have more opportunity to capture the Korean market.

South Korea's apparel import sources in FY 21

Men's suits, jackets, blazers, trouser

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said, “We will invite big buyers and brands in Korea to source products from us. We will also offer them joint cooperation in manufacturing man-made fiber-based products.”

According to the International Trade Centre (ITC) data, South Korea's apparel imports stood at $10.53 billion in 2021. China is the largest export source, $3.54 billion, followed by Vietnam $3.13 billion, Italy $0.752 billion and Indonesia $0.507 billion.

On the other hand, Bangladesh exported only $0.530 billion in FY2022 to Korea, of which apparel shipments amounted to $0.440 billion, according to the EPB. Korea is the country's 20th largest export partner out of 202 destinations.

In FY2021-22, Bangladesh earned $193.69 million by exporting apparel items to Türkiye. Industry leaders expressed that the market holds immense scope for Bangladesh.

South Korea

Apparel export to South Korea reached $98.86 million with 69.64% growth in July-August of FY2022-23.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), apparel shipments to the Korean market have experienced a positive growth over the past five years despite the pandemic-led slowdown, however, export earnings were only $440 million in FY22.

The regional markets play a key role in achieving $100 billion apparel exports.

Shahidullah Azim, Vice–President, BGMEA said, “East Asia, Middle East, India etc. are big markets for apparel items and the impact of the geopolitical crisis is also lower there. And we have to enter these markets and growth must be maintained at any cost.”

“I think what we need right now is capacity building in the spinning and textile sector to cater high-end fabric manufacturing. At the same time market diversification – although other markets are not that big in size and price value compare to the EU and USA,” Sheikh H M Mustafiz said.

Figure

items to Türkiye

Bangladesh daring to meet latest denim trends

Textile Today Analysis

Time and time again, denim jeans continue its popularity and remain as fashion stalwart globally. The strong denim demand has been reflected in many of the leading market analysts. According to Statista, the global denim jeans market is expected to grow $76.1 billion by 2026 – which stood at $64.5 billion in 2022. Statista says this likely surge ‘is unsurprising’ as the full denim fabric market is set to grow, in parallel.

that jeans made with cotton are the highest quality, while 70% went for authentic, 68% for soft, reliable 68%, comfortable 67%, 66% consumers opined for last the longest denim, 66% choose breathable, and 66% want sustainable jeans.

Trends

Denim industry experts highlighted that the brand’s consumers are looking for embellishments, decorated denim like pink, green, blonde, and bleached blue shades. While for ripped or frayed styles Gen Z want clearly show division. Because some are into it, while some do not want it. One thing is common – everybody wants a wide leg jeans.

NPD’s Maria Rugolo, Apparel Industry Analyst, said, “Buyers made the silhouette switch because after spending so much time at home in the pandemic, they wanted something they didn’t previously have in their closets. Since COVID began, 37% of global consumers say they are wearing denim jeans more than before, according to the Global Denim Survey.”

Another leading research firm, Allied Market Research’s data survey showed that the denim industry is expected to grow to $88.1 billion by 2030, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.2%.

Coming out of the pandemic, global denim consumers are looking for more than just basic jeans. Coupled with natural made denim fiber.

Fiber of choice for denim

The denim industry is going ahead to discover and device more sustainable denim solutions with the rise of natural fibers.

Even at Denim Premiere Vision Fall/Winter 202324 denim collections – which was held in Berlin last month – were concurrently ‘rigid and flexible’, ‘static and dynamic’ and ‘natural and synthetic’.

Which is prevalent in the Global Denim Survey report. The survey showed that 82% of global consumers testified that cotton is their go-to fiber to wear for denim. While 10% consumers opined for polyester and 8% rayon.

According to the Global Denim Survey, compared to manmade fibers, a staggering – 72% consumers say

“49% are wearing jeans the same amount as before while just 14% are wearing them less. 50% of Mexican consumers are wearing denim, and 53% of Chinese consumers are preferring denim. That is considerably more than the number of US consumers (34%),” Rugolo added.

“Comfort apparel trends accelerated by the pandemic shifted jeans trends towards looser fits,” she said.

Rugolo said, “The rise in various styles has opened up consumers of all ages and generations to more variety and options at just the right time. Consumers were looking to branch out beyond the styles that had been sitting in their closets for over a year.”

The Cotton Council International (CCI) and Cotton Incorporated’s ‘2021 Global Denim Survey’ research depicts that the most popular global denim outlines are – regular 37%, slim 34%, straight 33%, skinny 31%, and relaxed 27%. CCI and Cotton Incorporated’s survey was conducted in the US, the UK, Germany, Spain, the Netherlands, France, Italy, India, Mexico, and China.

Buying pattern

The Global Denim Survey highlighted that the Mexican denim consumers have own an average of

FOR EXCELLENT WASH DURABLE WATER REPELLENCY

to the finish line

16 pairs of denim jeans – the most by any country. In addition, 55% Mexicans denim jeans consumers plan to buy more denim in 2022. While 41% plan to buy the same quantity as last year. Just 4 percent expect to buy less.

India comes in second in denim jeans possession – with an average of 12 pairs. This year, 52% Indian consumers plan to buy more – the utmost of all nations surveyed, while 44% plan to buy the same amount as usual. Consumers in the UK on average own 7 pairs. And only 29% plan to purchase more this year, while 60% plan to buy the same amount and 11 percent plan to buy less.

Among the rest of the countries (US, Germany, Spain, Netherlands, France, Italy, and China), customers own an average of 10 pairs of denim jeans, the Global Denim Survey revealed. While 33% plan to buy more denim this year, 57 percent believe to buy the same as preceding years.

Bangladesh in driving seat as the major denim sourcing destination

Bangladesh emerged as the major denim sourcing destination – surpassing Chinese makers in EU and the US, the two key export destinations for Bangladesh. The scenario is such that one in every

three European consumer wears a pair of ‘Made in Bangladesh’ denim jeans.

In the global denim market share, Bangladesh has a 24.6% share, after market frontrunner China's 36%. Making the country a dominant force in the global denim sourcing.

According to data from the Export Promotion Bureau and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh exported denim items worth $0.68 billion to EU in the January–June period of 2022, recording a 37.26% year-on-year growth.

Bangladesh emerged as the top denim exporter in the USA, earning $0.44 billion in January–June period of 2022, witnessing a surge of 57.06% yearon-year growth.

Of the $42 billion in total garment exported in the last fiscal year, 20% was denim products.

Bangladesh’s 40 textile mills have investment of Tk 16,000 crore, which can produce 80 million yards of denim fabrics a month.

Challenges and hopes for Bangladesh denim

The globally unstable situation, especially in the EU, is dampening the surge scenario in the second half

Bangladesh's denim export to EU, USA (In $bn) *Jan-June

Top 5 denim exporters to EU (In $bn)

Bangladesh is top denim exporter to

Tk 160 billion

denim sector investment

has 40 denim fabrics making mills

of 2022. Bangladeshi denim makers are feeling the pinch. The denim fabrics and garment exports have failed by nearly 40%, hitting the upcoming winter shipment.

Global retailers and brands are putting orders on hold as they are suffering from unsold inventory amid a slowdown in sales caused by higher inflation led by higher energy prices – apart from the lengthy dry spell in Europe.

Typically, in summers, Europeans prefer woven bottoms to denim. While the winter pushes up the demand. The temperature starts falling from June in Europe. But this year, it is still running above 30 degree Celsius in some parts of the continent. It is a major reason to diminish the sales of denim fabrics in Bangladesh and exports of the products

manufactured from the textiles to European markets. Shams Mahmud, Managing Director of Shasha Denims, one of the top denim manufacturers in Bangladesh, said the demand for denim has a correlation with economic downturns.

The use of denim items increased a lot during the global recession in 2007 and 2008 since the apparel items don't need a regular wash and are durable.

Currently, the global economic situation is not in good shape owing to Covid-19 and the RussiaUkraine war and consumers are feeling the pinch of higher inflation.

"Consumers are buying denim items considering their durability," said Mahmud.

The trade tension between Washington and Beijing has an impact on global clothing market. As international retailers and brands want smooth supply, they are shifting work orders from China to Bangladesh.

"They see Bangladesh as a safe destination. The improvement in workplace safety following the implementation of recommendations as per Accord and Alliance suggestions has brightened the image of the sector and the country."

Bangladeshi manufacturers are taking every necessary step to supply high quality denim to cope with the latest trends and satisfy the customers.

Bangladesh registers highest growth in EU apparel market

Arif Uz-Zaman

According to Eurostat data published for JanuaryJune ’22 period, EU apparel imports from Bangladesh increased by 44.60% over the same period last year, while their global imports increased by 25.03%. EU imports from Bangladesh reached $11.31 billion, the second highest after China.

EU imported $12.22 billion worth apparel from China during the mentioned time and registered 21.78% year-over-year growth whereas Turkey registered 20.38% year-over-year growth and exported $10.89 billion worth of clothing to EU.

Other top countries with high growth are Cambodia 40.15%, Pakistan 32.28%, Indonesia 28.64% and India 24.90%.

According to industry insiders, the surge in EU imports was mainly due to the recovery from the pandemic and an increase in retail sales as a result of increased shopping by consumers. However, the upward trend may not sustain as European brands have been hit hard by the recent Russia-Ukraine war and higher inflation rates.

Md. Mohiuddin Rubel, Director, BGMEA said, “we observed that Bangladesh’s total export maintained significant growth until August 2022, which means EU’s imports from Bangladesh might keep on positive trend till September, and may falter afterwards as retail sales is already affected by economic turmoil and buyers being cautious about overstock and current production.”

However, this is a short-term problem. We are optimistic that the recession will not last long. Although we may have to suffer one season. But it should pick-up by November-December or January. Even if the order decreases, there will be new buyers. Projections for the next season have been good with increased volumes, opined the industry leaders.

40% Denim fabric sales dropped in upcoming winter shipment

Prolong dry spell, energy crisis induced inflation in Europe hampered denim fabric sales

Unsold stock in EU & US slowed down denim sales

rate

Figure 2: The recent Challenges for Bangladesh denim.

Apparel export sees 13.41% growth in July-Sept

Sayed Abdullah

The official data of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) showed that Bangladesh’s apparel products export performance in July-September FY2022-23 (the first 3 months of FY2022-23) witnessed 13.41% year-on-year growth, earning $10.27 billion in the first 3 months of FY2022-23.

Among the RMG export items in July-September FY2022-23, the knitwear subsector earned $5.64 billion, registering a 9.40% growth. While woven garments export earned $4.62 billion in the past two months, up by 18.73%.

While EPB data also showed that Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) export earning achieved about 8% year-on-year growth to $3.16 billion in September of FY 2022-23.

RMG export earnings has been slid into the adverse ground after witnessing 13 months of continued robust growth – mainly due to a drop in sales in the main export destinations. From September 2021 to August 2022, garment exports sustained a 30% year-onyear substantial growth – except the growth slowed to 23.53% and 16.61% in May and July respectively. In that 13 months timeframe –Bangladesh’s RMG export had surpassed the four-billion mark every single month – except May and July.

BGMEA already shared early indication of growth slowdown from September onwards which is apparently reflected in export data for September. The global retail market is disrupted by many challenges starting from post COVID container freight and supply chain crisis, raw materials price hike, and then anticipated recession in the global economy which is halting retail sales and demand for clothing.”

other subsectors of specialized textiles, terry towels earned $10.68 million 11.30% year-on-year negative growth.

Special woven fabric export earnings sustained a 17.41% yearon-year growth and earned $8.70 million in the first 3 months of FY2022-23.

Knitted fabrics earned $31.53 million – registering a staggering 95.96% year-on-year growth over the period.

Cotton and cotton product (yarn, waste, fabrics, etc.) export earnings rose to $74.65 million –registering a healthy 74.7% growth in the July-September FY2022-23 period.

Jute and jute goods

Mohiuddin Rubel Director, BGMEA

Other leading subsectors of textile

Among other leading subsectors of textile, home textile export earnings rose to $353.48 million in the July-September FY2022-23 period, registering a 26.59% yearon-year growth.

While specialized textiles export earnings rose to $59.37 million –witnessing a 55.7% year-on-year growth over the period. Among

Jute and jute goods export earned $245.65 million in the first 3 months of FY2022-23. Witnessing a 15.71% growth.

earnings

Special

fabric Terry towel

Zydex products are superior for performance, consistency and reasonable pricing

BTT Interview

Dr. Ajay Ranka, Chairman & MD, Zydex Group founded the company in 1997. Zydex is a specialty chemicals company with the drive of innovating to make a sustainable world through conservation of resources. Zydex offers a diverse set of chemical technologies for the Textile, Agriculture, Pavement and Construction Industries.

Zydex has risen to become a global player with footprints in over 40 countries, where significant players and institutions have adopted our eco-friendly and sustainable technologies.

Moreover, Zydex is intensely committed to sustainable chemistries. Zydex’s commitment has made them a pioneer in introducing non-polluting and nonhazardous technologies that conserve, protect and enhance the environment.

Dr. Ajay Ranka is a PhD in Polymer Science & Engineering, USA. He started his career with PPG Industries, USA. He founded Zydex as a Specialty Chemicals Company with the viewpoint of innovating for sustainability to conserve and extend the life of limiting resources.

Taking his vision forward, Zydex has delivered 200+ innovative and world-class products and solutions for textile industry. This contributed to Zydex’s growth story and subsequent establishment of the Roads, Agriculture, Waterproofing and Paints Divisions. With a growing workforce of 800+ employees.

Recently, Dr. Ajay Ranka shared about the current global business status of Zydex, its new chemical solutions, plan regarding Bangladesh market etc with Textile Today.

Figure: Dr. Ajay Ranka, Chairman & MD, Zydex Group

Textile Today: Please share the journey of Zydex. What’s the current global business status of Zydex?

Dr. Ajay Ranka: Zydex is on the verge of completing 25 years in 2022 and have expanded all through these years to over 40 countries, serving some of its elite customers worldwide through its innovative products. From the very beginning, Zydex had envisioned the role of innovation in transforming the world for better life. Its philosophy of innovating for sustainability has evolved over years to it various divisions it operates – textile chemicals, construction chemicals for roads and housing, decorative paints and range of bio-fertilizers for sustainable and organic farming. Zydex operates worldwide through its associates and direct customers including Americas, Europe and Asia.

Textile Today: What are the new chemical solutions you offering for the textile and apparel industry?

Dr. Ajay Ranka: Zydex offers solutions from farm to fashion through its innovative range of chemicals. One of the most innovative technology for printing it has recently commercialised is Epricon based on new generation polymer binder system for pigment printing. Interestingly this innovation addresses the challenges of sustainability of conventional reactive printing consuming valuable resources water and energy and generate effluents. Epricon eliminates the high usage of resources and without any effluent while meeting all standards of printing. Epricon is a simple print-dry-cure process and aims to replace 60-70% of reactive designs, saving water and energy during the textile process. The Epricon technology has three components, the Pre-treatment package, the printing package and the finishing package and it is the

combination of three which gives the brightness and solidity along with the performance standards.

Zydex is also offering the newer generation of Silane based antimicrobials which are retentive in nature and highly effective.

Zydex has launched next generation whites, colours and specialities for garment printing with improved look feel and washing fastness and meeting the baby wear standards for RSL (Restricted Substance List) compliance.

Textile Today: How do your products ensure eco-friendly and cost-effective production?

Dr. Ajay Ranka: The Epricon package which is the key breakthrough saves 75-80% water during the processing, along with almost 40-50% less energy and reduced wastage, resulting into overall cost saving of 15-20% against reactive, depending on the design and quality of the fabric. Zydex products are GOTS, ZDHC-3 and Oekotex certified.

Textile Today: The cost of raw materials – including chemicals –has increased. How did it affect the global chemical business? How are you dealing the issue with your customers?

Dr. Ajay Ranka: The initial spike of pricing affected everybody and it had a negative impact on the bottom-line. The price increases have been passed on but slowing down the demand. The prices have started receding and expected to be at pre-Covid level in many chemicals. The petroleum based products will continue to be higher and are likely to create a slowdown in the demand.

Textile Today: What are the unique selling proposition (USP) of Zydex that you are working on within the Bangladesh textile industry as there are more chemical suppliers in the market?

Zydex offers solutions from farm to fashion through its innovative range of chemicals. One of the most innovative technology for printing it has recently commercialised is Epricon based on new generation polymer binder system for pigment printing.

It is also offering the newer generation of Silane based antimicrobials which are retentive in nature and highly effective.

Dr. Ajay Ranka: Washing durability is the key parameter for exports and the Zydex product line is continuously trying to improve and remain a leader for achieving the same. The top quality textile mills are starting to test and adopt the Zydex products for performance, consistency and reasonable pricing. Our team services customers regularly by physical usage and online consultation.

Textile Today: Bangladesh's textile chemicals market is forecast to grow to $1.38 billion by 2024, according to the Research and Markets, a global market research company. Do you think of setting up a chemical manufacturing unit here? Share us your plan regarding Bangladesh market.

Dr. Ajay Ranka: As we will grow and acquire bigger share in Bangladesh markets, we may think of making specifically the binders and the inks locally, to reduce the inventory, increase the customization and reduce the transportation cost for the customer.

Decades-long complexity in style changeover: root cause and way out

Habibur Rahman

The sense of individuality and uniqueness in fashion will continue to increase as our world ages. Everyone enjoys wearing clothing according to their taste. There are more companies that accept minimum orders of one piece and offer fast delivery as new fashion brands emerge every day. New concepts are arriving every day. Thanks to digitalization, the entire fashion industry has migrated to mobile devices, and it is now well-established that no design is preferred to be acceptable to every consumer.

Customers' expectations of fashion are rising daily as they can view thousands of designs by scrolling continuously and can have items delivered to their homes in just four or five clicks.

Practically, every day brings new challenges for those of us working in the fashion industry as professionals and manufacturers. As order quantity decreases, complexity increases, deliveries are met on extremely tight schedules, people start trusting in C2M order management systems. Demand grows, and the range of customer requirements expands day by day. In fact, it appears that the entire thing is heading towards the most complicated process every day. In light of these realities, our frequent style changes have now become the norm. And we have to accept it.

In garment manufacturing companies, when we want to start production from one style to another style, from one color

to another color, from one design to a new design in sewing lines, dyeing, Printing anywhere, usually, time is lost from 6 hours to 10 days (100 hours) in worst cases. And we have started to accept it as a normal occurrence.

For three decades, we have struggled with this issue, but we have been unable to make any significant progress toward solving it. Instead, we have resorted to the lowest forms of justification, including negative mindset, indifference and rigid excuses.

We have tried to categorize this problem only as a technical problem and tried to solve it mechanically. Because we misinterpret our systematic errors. Some psychological complications need to be solved before the technical issues, otherwise, this problem will not be solved.

Please remember all the technical attributes, failures and aspects discussed and practiced in our factory are not included in this article. We would like to highlight the things we have not taken into consideration yet.

Unlearning the wrong things, we know and adopting new methods

Be confident in the learn-unlearnrelearn methodology, gradually letting go of the old techniques and placing your trust in new knowledge, all tested methods of the world and new people. The unlearn to relearn approach is the first step in accepting the flaws and embracing a new approach.

And if you want to transform yourself and your organization in this way, the most important thing to focus on is a positive mindset.

Power of a positive mindset

If you want to achieve something, you must first believe that you can achieve it. If you don't have the ability or the condition to achieve it at the moment – yet if you believe it – then you can achieve it. Because effort comes from belief, and achievement comes from effort.

If we believe that we can do it - we won't give up even if we fail again and again - then we will eventually succeed by learning from mistakes and failures. Eventually, it will not be the same mistake again.

Positive thinking people see temporary failure as a challenge. While most people view failure as the end, positive thinkers view every setback differently. When faced with any difficult situation, they feel challenged instead of frustrated and see it as an opportunity to make themselves a little more efficient and powerful.

Think deeply about getting out of the comfort zone:

The comfort zone is the environmental and behavioral position where people's work activities are trapped within a certain safe and stress-free routine and schedule. It gives people a sense of emotional security.

People caught in the middle are consistently happier, have less anxiety, and feel much less stress.

The last part is nice to hear but has a lot of bad effects. A person stuck in a comfort zone does not want to take even the smallest risk. Due to this, their development is stuck in one place.

SWOT analysis

SWOT stands for Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats, and so SWOT analysis is a technique for assessing these four aspects of your business.

The real purpose of SWOT analysis

Innovation in Textile Chemicals for a Sustainable society

having more than

is to find out the strengths of something and to find the opportunities in which these strengths can be used in any context. Also, to find out the weak features as well as analyze the harmful effects of these weak features. Later, arrange to remove these features. You need to have a clear plan to eliminate or to take control of all weaknesses. The whole team need to see what was missing.

targets at the end of the deadline. One thing to note is that we can finally complete the shipment even if we put in a lot of hard work. So, if we had started a little effort earlier, then we could have arranged the shipment through a better arrangement than before. This is the main theme of Parkinson's Law of Time, which is that we delay this work by a few hours, or even days, and do it under control at the right time. Some steps on how we can get out of these wrong policies or confusion –

more important thing we need to pay attention to is the preparatory phase. Basically, we stumble because we cannot manage our preparation for a problem properly. Our production people are the victims of this stumbling block. We begin to blame them for our failure by putting pressure on them at the very end of the play always. We are all office people responsible for making it happen.

SWOT Analysis

Opportunity Threat

It is an approach that will empower any company to face any challenge and help it survive in any tough environment. But not only in business, but also in the spiritual development of people, the results of this strategy are amazing. It is possible to use this method to face practically any kind of challenge.

Parkinson's Law of Time

'Parkinson's Law of Time' is the method or strategy that one can practice to get more work done in a certain period of time. Become a master at setting deadlines for any task.

We usually start rushing towards the last days of production for shipment. We strive to meet

• Practice very tight deadlines for a few days without thinking ahead.

• If we have done this kind of work before, how long did it take?

• How much did we cheat in the previous assignments?

• What steps did we take last time in a hurry?

You will not succeed in hitting the deadline right the first time. Don't worry, keep practicing. Success is inevitable.

Team building

Team Building is still missing in our industry. Building a genuine team with all stake holders including worker, employee, factory, machine, order, entrepreneur, is the biggest control of any kind of sustainable development.

If we could have turned our team building into a culture, the complexity and impenetrability of our mysterious chapter in the name of style changeover for three decades would have been eliminated. We do nothing about this, so we cannot ensure proper utilization of capacity due to this complexity in our style changeover.

Preparatory phase

Before going to the technical matters, one

To control the style change over complexity, the Secret is proper preparation. Technical preparation is secondary until the full team is whole heartedly and mindfully involved with this challenge. Until they accept this as their very own problem, this problem will remain for a few decades long.

Conclusion

In a European Facility, this style changeover is part of the usual process flow chart of Day-to-day activities. And they can make it happen easily these days, because of those psychological approaches and best practices are practiced decade after decade. They were also not doing perfectly at the beginning. Until the psychological issues are addressed, there will be no far-reaching and sustainable solution to the complexities of style change. There is no technical solution to this problem unless the mentality of every microprocess owner and employee of our production factory changes. Solving any issue temporarily does not bring any effective achievement. This problem will not be solved if we do not undertake special projects to change the mentality at the very production floor level.

Author:

Strength Weakness

Parkinson’s Law

Habibur Rahman Smart Factory 4.0 Consultant for Textile Apparel Industries.

Smart products for more e ectiveness in weaving preparation

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From modest beginnings in 1965 in the apparel trade

‘Experience Group’ has evolved with the times to occupy a leadership position in the garments manufacturing industry of today. The Founder of Experience Group Mian Maqsood Ahmad started his journey in 1965 at a young age in London, UK.

Experience Group has come to Bangladesh with their third factory Experience Clothing Co. Ltd. At present there are six factories under the Experience Group of Industries aiming to lead the fashion apparel manufacturing industry in Bangladesh.

Experience Group builds growing relationships with their customers and clients to create fashionable and affordable solutions using state-of-the-art technology and equipment to ensure efficiency in their production process, low waste, and low cost.

Recently Usama Maqsood, Group Director at Experience Group, was in a conversation with Textile Today where he shared the journey of Experience Group, their weaving project, retail brand AMIRÁ, challenges of accessories sector etc.

Experience Group finds investment behind people and high-end products as key to its success

BTT Interview

Textile Today: Experience Group commenced its journey in London before the liberation war of Bangladesh. Please share us the journey of the company from beginning till now.

Usama Maqsood: First of all, I want to express my thanks to Textile Today and its ‘innovation hub’ initiative. It has been a very good media partner for not just Experience Group, rather for the whole Bangladesh textile and apparel industry. My father, Mian Maqsood Ahmad started Experience Group back in 1965 in London, UK. In the 1980’s, Mian Maqsood Ahmad bought the well-known Experience London Clothing brand. Then he started a few manufacturing units there. The company use to cater the

wholesale and we also had a few retail stores – under Experience Group name.

Then in the 1990’s, in the face of UK’s economy slow downmy father had to look for cost effective alternative sourcing destinations like Pakistan, Bangladesh, India, etc. but eventually we settled down in Bangladesh. That’s how the Experience Group initiated its journey. So far Bangladesh has been a blessing for us – in terms of effective business as it is cost effective.

Textile Today: As an investment destination, you had number of options like Cambodia, Vietnam or even Pakistan – What aspects did inspire you to invest in Bangladesh in particular?

Usama Maqsood: My thoughts about Bangladesh are that I intrinsically feel that it is my country as I grew up here. I understand the people and most importantly despite having a lot of challenges in the infrastructure, energy and other facilities –people are really hardworking and dedicated. That is one of the prime reasons for Bangladesh to do well economically and for us to do business here.

Although due to the recent rising of

Person on Cover

Usama Maqsood, Group Director at Experience Group

prices of energy and other essential materials the country may not remain as cost effective as it was before. Still, it is one of the top choice destinations for sourcing textile and garments globally.

Textile Today: We know that you have started a weaving project. What is the status of the projects? How do you see investment and product ranges of your weaving projects?

Usama Maqsood: We decided to move into the weaving business in the second wave of COVID. It was a surprise investment because we were still struggling due to the pandemic. But my father took the initiative of manufacturing our own fabric. As he wants to make Experience Group to be fully vertical; so that we can offer faster lead time to our customers.

The weaving project is near completion. Hopefully, within two months we can go into production. Initially it has the capacity of 50 looms. But we will increase its capacity up to 200 looms in couple of months.

In addition, we have plan to invest in knitwear with circular knit machine which will arm Experience Group to cater both knitwear and woven products. As for product ranges, we will make cotton, cotton blend, cotton spandex and viscose. This vertical expansion will give us the advantage of providing our customers with A-Z solutions.

Textile Today: How the textile industry of Bangladesh can address the current order crisis, is this situation temporary? Is this only due to recession in the west because of Russia-Ukraine war or anything else?

Usama Maqsood: I will put the current order crisis is a symptom emanated from the global economic turmoil as the whole world is experiencing inflation, energy crisis, etc. Thus, consumers around the world are buying less which is leading to stockpile in

fashion buyers and retailers’ end. I think this impact is being felt in the Bangladesh textile and apparel industry.

There are some internal challenges as well – for instance local energy shortage is hampering the textile and RMG industry’s production. My industry colleagues express their disarray of this situation. This is a common phenomenon across all the local industries who uses gas.

To be frank, I don’t see any single solution to this problem because there are many aspects to this energy crisis. I will definitely hope that the government supports the industry in any way they can – like providing uninterrupted supply of gas. At the same time, the country needs to market itself as a champion apparel manufacturer, our good practices, our USGBC LEED Certified factories to the globe. This is the way forward for us. Yes, the order crisis will not go away overnight and in the current global scenario, this scenario might prolong. As it is totally dependent on end-consumers and market situation. For instance, one of our prominent export destinations, the UK is experiencing a record high inflation, as well as, high fuel price. As a result, consumers are focusing on buying essential items like food and paying energy bills. Resulting a slowdown in clothing purchase.

But eventually the order depression will go away just like

in past and garment is a necessity for people. What I see, is that shoppers will move to mid-low to low-end clothing retailers to save cash. We will experience growth again.

Textile Today: Experience Group has a high-street retail brand AMIRÁ. Kindly share us the future plan regarding AMIRÁ.

Usama Maqsood: AMIRÁ is relatively a new startup – providing ethnic lifestyle and innovative high-street retail clothing. Currently, we have four store and the response we are getting from shoppers are huge. And given the recent challenging scenario persisting in the domestic market –AMIRÁ is rebranding itself. We are planning to open stores in the right places across the country. Soon we are opening a store in Mymensingh which is a hub due to the universities, hospitals and other communities. Simultaneously, we will open another store in Mirpur, Dhaka. Afterwards, we are looking at further opportunities to expand across the country.

Our target customer is mostly women aged between 18 to up to 40. Having said that, AMIRÁ wants to accessible to all age groups – men and women. We want to give our customers the rich design diversity, fabric innovation and quality.

AMIRÁ wants to diminish the import dependency from Pakistani and Indian made ethnic wear like kameez, Panjabi, two or three

Figure: Maqsood Ahmad, Chairman & Managing Director; Usama Maqsood, Group Director of the Experience Group captured in a frame.

Eventually the order depression will go away just like in past and garment is a necessity for people. What I see, is that shoppers will move to mid-low to low-end clothing retailers to save cash. We will experience growth again.

pieces. Instead, we do a lot of market research on Pakistani and Indian ethnic wear trendy items and make our own unique designs to provide the most attractive and stylish ethnic wear for our Bangladeshi customers achieving the highest quality possible along with affordable range. Utilizing high-quality fabrics with inhouse designing, printing and manufacturing process, for the best outcome.

Textile Today: Accessories business has a big potential in Bangladesh and the business is booming here. As a leader in the segment, what is your observation regarding the challenges of the sector? What more the sector needs to grow in a sustainable way?

Usama Maqsood: Experience Group has an accessories unit in the EPZ. There we mainly focus on making garment accessories like hangtags, polybags, etc. From my observation I have seen that as the accessories is the last item in garment shipment – you must be top-notch efficient to deliver in short lead-time to be successful in this business. There is almost no room for error or we have to give a lot amount in penalties.

In accessories sector, some of the big names are doing really good. Accessories makers are holistically limiting the import of zippers, buttons, etc. from abroad. Which

is a great boost for Bangladesh’s apparel industry. Garment accessories has a big role to play in Bangladesh’s market.

Groupwise, our next move is to expand our investment in accessories and packaging. Experience Group will make all the high-end apparel accessories like the RFID tag for which the Bangladesh RMG market is not ready. At the same time, other value-added accessories and packaging products like leather PU, leather patches for denim jeans, shorts, etc. heat transfer is a big thing in the accessories business which we want to do.

Not just the garment items rather other industries like food packaging, stationary, etc. for the local market, as well as, for export. We want to diminish the import dependence on China.

So, what we are aiming to establish a compliant accessories unit within the next five years. At the same time, with all the necessary nomination from buyers – as this business is based upon nomination and we will emphasis on getting that.

Most importantly, our expansion will focus on making recyclable and high-end accessories and packaging items. We will export to leading markets like Europe and USA. We are confident that we can make our products as price competitive as like Chinese ones. Overall, we are focusing into market and product diversification in the accessories sector to make Experience Group more successful.

Textile Today: We know Experience Group is an innovation and R&D-based company. How innovation and R&D are leading the company towards success?

Usama Maqsood: The first thing I want to emphasize is technology. It has a vital role in Experience Group’s success. If anybody wants to stay competitive and on top, they have to invest in technology. The good news for Experience

Group is that in this year we are going to finish implementing ERP for the whole group. And I personally pushed for a holistic implementation of ERP. For the first time, I can see the monthly, yearly analytics of my company. I can also see different teams’ performances and other necessary analytical viewpoints. As a result, we can do better business and be more competitive.

Besides, another vital aspect for our success is investing in people.

Textile Today: Bangladesh apparel sector is robustly working to diversify its market. What is your suggestion here? Which new destinations should get more focuses and how can Bangladesh move forward?

Usama Maqsood: In future, we have to move toward with highend value-added fashion items and automation to offset the higher labor cost. Some of the RMG manufacturers are coming up and investing in value-added apparel factories. The transition is happening gradually which is natural. Because by overnight, we cannot change our bulk production of basic apparel making industry. The good news is that recently I am seeing a lot of high-end apparel orders are being placed in Bangladesh that would have been placed in China.

As for sourcing destination transition, a lot of talk has been going around for Africa. But unfortunately, Africa is not that developed to cater the apparel manufacturing in a massive scale. Because the continent lacks all political stability, logistics, welltrained workforce, etc.

Although, we are seeing manufacturing hubs sprung up in Morocco, Egypt and other African countries that are near to Europe due to shorter lead time.

As for Bangladesh’s way forward – like I said earlier – investing in technology and people is the ultimate key.

productivity, optimize processes and reduce energy costs

Bangladesh starts exporting tannery solid waste

Textile Today Report

By exporting leather products Bangladesh earns huge forex every year – on the contrary, solid waste from the tannery industry is immensely polluting the environment. In light of this scenario, Bangladesh opens the golden opportunity to export tannery solid

biggest industry in terms of total export. According to the Leather goods and Footwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association of Bangladesh (LFMEAB), there are currently 200 tannery industries in Bangladesh. The footwear industry contributes a large part to the leather industry with 2500 footwear units and 90 large firms. Annually more than 378 million pairs of shoes are manufactured in Bangladesh and the only local footwear market demand is up to 250 million each year.

In 2019, the treatment plant company, formed by the Bangladeshi government working to manage waste from the tannery industry in Savar, asked interested by-product manufacturers to submit applications to this end by 28 September 2022. 154 tanneries relocated their factories from the Hazaribagh to the Savar Tannery Industrial Estate (STIE) and started operations in 2017.

waste.

A reliable tannery company named Anjuman Trading Corporation Ltd. has got permission from the Ministry of Finance to export 200 tons of solid waste. If everything goes according to the export plan, this shipment would be the first tannery waste export from Bangladesh.

Anjuman Trading Corporation Ltd. will send the first consignment of 200 tons of solid tannery waste to a Cambodian company, which will bring $300 per ton. The Cambodian company is expected to buy 200 tons of solid tannery waste monthly from Bangladesh which is worth $60,000.

Almost 232 tons of solid waste are generated per day and 64,000 tons yearly have reached beyond the authorities’ capacity to manage, resulting in soil and water pollution. Tannery solid wastes are a pollutant but it has a potential value. To convert waste specific modified technology is required.

With the increasing number of industries, solid waste and especially tannery waste is increasing day by day. And this new opportunity to export solid waste would provide a sustainable solution to the waste management problem.

After the RMG sector Tannery Industry is the second

Bangladesh Tanners Association (BTA) are in talks with RMG developed country like Vietnam and Indonesia to export tannery waste. Multiple local firms are interested in shipping solid waste and have recently applied to the Ministry of Commerce for approval.

Bangladesh exports 10% of the global demand for leather because of having a favorable environment for raising and nurturing animals. Export Promotion Bureau shows leather products and leather footwear exports climbed by 32.98% to $1.01 billion from January to September month of 2022. Tannery sector’s export earnings are widely expected to go up to $12 billion by 2030.

Leather export from Bangladesh is internationally popular for its high-quality fine grain, uniform natural fiber structure, and smooth finishing. Recently, Bangladesh’s leather industry is gaining the capacity to produce processed raw leather, leather products, and waste in sustainable ways.

In 2019, the global solid waste recycling product market demand was $285 billion. From solid tannery wastes, it is possible to produce potential products like animal feed, biogas, gelatin, glue, compost fertilizer, paper, wallets, bricks, tiles, and leather fiber boards. These waste exports help our environment to become sustainable and country with economic

Figure: Anjuman Trading Corporation Ltd. will send the first consignment of 200 tons of solid tannery waste to a Cambodian company. Courtesy: Collected

growth without any doubt.

The Managing Director of Dhaka Tannery Industrial Estate Waste Treatment Plant Company, Mostaque Ahmed said to media, “Solid waste is a threat to the environment but it is possible to produce byproducts from this waste.” He also added, “A few companies have shown interest in processing the solid waste before, but not much progress was made to that end. Now, we have decided to sell the waste at a lower price,”

If solid wastes could be recycled in Bangladesh and various products could be made from them locally it would become the best way to get rid of the economic crisis. For this establishment, Bangladesh needs to import machinery and chemicals. Managing the fund for the industry is one of the most significant challenges because machinery used in leather waste recycling is modernizing mainly imported from abroad and required chemicals for the process have to be imported high price. As a result, the overall cost of leather preparation is much higher than general. Bangladesh needs foreign investors for this type of project.

Bangladesh Tanners Association (BTA) are in talks with RMG developed country like Vietnam and Indonesia to export tannery waste. Multiple local firms are interested in shipping solid waste and have recently applied to the Ministry of Commerce for approval.

Vice-president of the (BTA) and executive director of Samata Leather Complex Ltd, Mizanur Rahman said to media, “Commercial gains can be made from the export of solid waste. Environmental pollution will also be prevented”.

According to the report from World Bank, In developed countries solid waste management operations are a local responsibility, and nearly 72% of countries have established institutions with responsibility for their policy development and regulatory error in the waste sector.

The environmentalist talked about how solid waste management would be done in the plan of the STIE project they welcomed the export move and appreciate the first initiative for future growth.

With the help of a Government, Bangladesh tanneries might be capable to invest substantially in terms of eco-friendly production and advanced leather processing technology which helps to further grow and get the opportunity from other countries.

Cross-border business policy needs to be made more reliable and convenient to further attract foreign direct investment and improve the solid waste export system. Bangladeshi government may establish a ‘credit line fund’ to provide funding to the small and medium-sized tannery industry which will be beneficial steps for the manufacturer in the long run.

Silicone Base

SILICONE CLEAR-CHINA

SILICONE GLOSSY GELL-CHINA SILICONE MATT GELL-CHINA

SILICONE FIXER-CHINA SILICONE WHITE-CHINA SILICONE YELLOW-CHINA SILICONE GOLDEN YELLOW-CHINA SILICONE ORANGE-CHINA SILICONE GREEN-CHINA SILICONE BLUE-CHINA SILICONE NAVY BLUE-CHINA SILICONE VIOLET-CHINA SILICONE REDUCER-CHINA SILICONE RED-CHINA SILICONE FLO PINK-CHINA

SILICONE FLO MAJENTA-CHINA SILICONE FLO GREEN-CHINA SILICONE FLO YELLOW-CHINA EMBOSSING SILICONE-CHINA

EMBOSSING SILICONE FIXER-CHINA

Sustainable reactive dyeing that saves resources

CHT Story

Many industrial sectors all over the world show a clear trend to sustainability and a conscientious handling of resources. The textile industry is not exempted from this trend. Furthermore, the worldwide consumption of cotton is increasing, which can lead to tensions in the area of water availability, land for agriculture and the use of agrochemicals.

Consequently, circular economy approaches, and an improved recycling of used textiles gain in importance. However, the reactive dyeing of cellulosic fibres like cotton and its blends is still being effected with water-based processes. In this field, too, a tendency towards cold pad batch processes or exhaust processes with short liquor ratios and lower temperatures of the dyeing and rinsing baths can be observed. The dye properties themselves are decisive for a successful use of reactive dyes in such processes: They must have a sufficiently high fixation speed, a very good ease of removal of hydrolysates and an excellent solubility. Moreover, reactive dyes are expected to reach high overall fastness levels, especially a good stability towards multiple washing and also light fastness, which allows a generally longer use of colored textiles, and to lead to reproducible, levelled dyeing results without causing problems. Last but not least due to a good color build-up they must also be efficiently applicable for dark shades.

Sustainable and economical dyeing

Compared with a conventional reactive dyeing at 60 °C, the dyeing process with BEZAKTIV GO is generally shorter, which also increases the productivity for the textile finisher. Savings in the required salt quantity can be simultaneously achieved. The unnecessary salt and the resulting lower electrolyte concentration in the dye bath not only allow for significant cost savings in the recipe but also for an improved washing off process of unfixed shares after the dyeing. The dyeing of medium to dark shades where in classic procedures quite a big share of unfixed dye must be washed off reveals the benefits of the “GO” process in particular. With the combination of a very high fixation degree and an excellent ease of removal of hydrolysates, the BEZAKTIV GO range allows for a very efficient rinsing and soaping process between 40 and 60°C. An additional positive effect is achieved by adding only low concentrations of the CHT auxiliary COTOBLANC

SEL in the second soaping bath. As a result, excellent wet fastness levels can be achieved on the textile using a washing process with a low water and energy consumption.

Even for dyeing in the cold pad batch process the rather high fixation speed allows for shorter dwelling times. The good wash-off properties lead to savings

Figure 1: Comparison of the rinsing baths in the reactive dyeing process (top: commodities / bottom: process at 60 °C using BEZAKTIV GO and COTOBLANC SEL).

Figure 2: The GO Process stands out for lower temperatures and shorter process times.

0.1 % BEZAKTIV ZERO Orange GO 2.8 % CI Reactive Yellow 145

1.8 % BEZAKTIV ZERO Scarlet GO 3.5 % CI Reactive Red 195

0.1 % BEZAKTIV ZERO Navy GO 0.2 % CI Reactive Blue 221 2.0 % reactive dyes 6.5 % reactive dyes 40 g/l Glauber's salt 90 g/l Glauber's salt 5 g/l soda ash 5 g/l soda ash 2.5 ml/l NaOH 38 °Bé 3.5 ml/l NaOH 38 °Bé

Figure 3: Dyeing recipes for a dark red-brown adjusted with BEZAKTIV ZERO GO instead of bifunctional standard dyes.

in continuous washing processes, specially with dark shades or black.

p-Chloroaniline-free dyeing with BEZAKTIV ZERO GO

ZERO refers to the content of undesired arylamines (as e.g. p-chloroaniline) which are not detectable in these dyes.

Both dyeing results are free from reductively detachable arylamines and have good multiple washing fastnesses and a comparable fastness level. The variant with BEZAKTIV ZERO GO, however, requires significantly lower dye and salt amounts and additionally helps save energy and water.

The BEZAKTIV ZERO GO dyes can, of course, also be applied in the “GO” process which saves both energy and water. These dyes have good fastness levels (like e.g. the multiple washing fastness according to ISO 105-C09) and can no longer reductively detach p-chloroaniline from the dyes textiles at detectable limits. The dyeing example shows that the BEZAKTIV ZERO GO dyes also lead to very deep colors and that they are especially well suited for dark shades. The problem with reductively cleavable p-chloroaniline of dyed cellulose mainly occurs with very dark shades and above all with black, for which most worldwide manufacturers use a black based on the Reactive Black 5. The BEZAKTIV ZERO Black GO does not contain any Reactive Black 5 and has therefore a very good multiple washing fastness according to ISO 105-C09 compared with a conventional reactive black.

All additional elements of the ZERO GO range have also good multiple washing fastnesses, they allow for dyeing more brilliant shades and they can also be excellently used for shading the BEZAKTIV ZERO Black

GO or BEZAKTIV ZERO Navy GO. The fastness improvement in multiple washing is mainly an enhanced stability towards oxidative influences and it is gaining in importance as it leads to an improved durability of the textiles, which is a contribution to sustainability in textile manufacture. Moreover, the elements of the BEZAKTIV ZERO GO dyes have high fixation degrees, can also be applied in continuous processes and fulfil highest ecological demands. Among others, the BEZAKTIV ZERO GO and some of the BEZAKTIV GO dyes have received a C2C Material Health CertificateTM

GO for Digitalization

Textile finishers can easily see the actual savings that are facilitated by the BEZAKTIV GO and ZERO GO dyes: The CHT Textile Dyes App offered by CHT Switzerland is a simple and smart calculation tool. The comparison with the above shown recipes clearly shows that the dye application amount and the necessary electrolyte concentration are much lower when using BEZAKTIV GO dyes than when using conventional, bifunctional reactive dyes. Besides the calculation programme the CHT Textile Dyes App additionally offers useful bits of information on the BEZAKTIV GO and ZERO GO products, ranging from color samples, all of the relevant fastness types and detailed product profiles up to useful recommendations for use.

Since the CHT Group is focused on sustainable chemical products and process solutions, the BEZAKTIV GO products also meet highest standards: All of the currently sold elements are bluesign®approved and suited to meet the requirements made by GOTS and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX.

Figure 4: Comparison of the main cost factors when using conventional reactive dyes and BEZAKTIV GO.

A huge amount of dollars are taken away every year by foreign professionals through the textile engineers of Bangladesh who have all the capacity, technical knowledge and efficiency to do all the jobs much better than the foreign employees. Bangladesh’s government should have a specific policy to monitor the whole process of foreign professionals’ employment opportunities in the Bangladesh Textile Industry.

Policies needed to diminish the dominance of foreign employees

To have foreign employees in a country is not a problem. But it’s a matter of concern when local experts do not get the proper opportunity for them or remain unemployed. To address this context in a systematic way Textile Engineering Division (TED), –Framework for the Future of Bangladesh’ organized a seminar on 18 September at Council Hall, IEB Headquarter, Ramna Dhaka.

Asadauzzaman Khan Kamal, Honorable Minister, Ministry of Home Affairs, was present at the seminar as Chief Guest. Engr. Md. Abdus Sabur, Secretary of Science & Technology Affairs of Bangladesh Awami League & Ex- President, IEB was present as a Guest of Honor at the Seminar. Engr. Md. Mozaffar Hossain, MP, President BBTEA; Prof. Engr. M. A Abul Kashem, Vice Chancellor, BUTEX; Engr. Md. Nurul Huda, President IEB; Nasrin Afroz, Executive Chairman (Secretary), National Skill Development Authority (NSDA) Prime Minister Office; Engr. Md. Nuruzzaman, Vice- President IEB; Engr. AKM Nurul Islam, Founder Chairman, TED, IEB; Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahman (CIP), President, ITET & Engr. S.M Sirajul Islam, Ex-Chairman, TED IEB; Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology was present as Special Guest at the seminar.

The program was presided over by Engr. Md. Masudur Rahman, Chairman, TED, IEB while Engr. Syed Atiqur Rahman, Secretary, TED IEB moderated the seminar. Engr. Md. Shahadat Hossain (Shiblu) Eng, Honorary General Secretary, IEB shared the welcome speech with the audience.

Home Minister Asadauzzaman Khan Kamal said, “At this moment there is no lack of skilled and efficient textile engineers in Bangladesh. Besides, Butex and the other Universities are also trying their best to enrich their academic systems so that more efficient textile engineers can lead the textile industry in the future.”

We will do whatever we can to support textile engineers. Six billion dollars will not go out of the country, only if the skilled manpower of our country is used.”

Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Asadauzzaman Khan Kamal Honorable Minister, Ministry of Home Affairs

He requested all the entrepreneurs to create a proper environment so that more textile engineers can join and carry on with their careers as there are some requirements in specific areas.

He also expressed his views that entrepreneurs should take decisions properly as we can avoid foreign professionals.

He also added, “I believe that the students or upcoming textile professionals have all the ability and capacity to take all the challenges and lead the textile industry to go forward. Proper training and R&D are the keys to move forward.”

Asaduzzaman Khan Kamal promised that, “We will do whatever we can to support textile engineers. Six billion dollars will not go out of the country, only if the skilled manpower of our country is used.”

In the discussion, other speakers expressed their views saying that in the current context of the dollar crisis, the topics of the seminar are very much relevant. A huge amount of dollars are taken away every year by foreign professionals through the textile engineers of Bangladesh who have all the capacity, technical knowledge and efficiency to do all the jobs much better than the foreign employees. Bangladesh’s government should have a

Engr. Md. Mozaffar Hossain, MP emphasized more investment in the Textile Sector rather than Garments. He also encouraged textile engineers to join in knitting and weaving industry as the industry has lack skilled professionals.

“ Engr. Md. Mozaffar Hossain, MP President, BBTEA

In his speech Engr. Ayub Nabi said, “We export 42 billion dollars each year and around 6 billion dollars are taken away each year by the foreign employees. Around 2,50,000 foreign employees are working in Bangladesh textile industry.”

According to the official statistics presented by the Home Minister of Bangladesh, more than 84,000 foreigners from 44 countries were employed in various jobs as of 2018. But these figures aren’t indicative of the total number of expatriates employed in Bangladesh as they don’t account for the significant number of foreigners who are employed without work permits.

Occupations/ Posts Expatriates ($ per month) Expatriates (in BDT, $1=Tk.83.5) Local staffs CEO/COO/MD $7000-15000 Tk. 584500-1252500 Tk. 250000-500000 Adviser $6000-11000 Tk. 501000-918500 Tk. 200000-500000 GM $5000-10000 Tk. 417500-853000 Tk. 150000-250000 DGM/AGM $3000-8000 Tk. 250500-668000 Tk. 85000-130000 Dyeing/ Cutting Manager

$2000-7000 Tk. 167000-584500 Tk. 50000-110000

He emphasized the importance of a complete database. A task force should be there to monitor the whole process. He also mentioned that some foreign employees are involved with unethical activities. They sometimes create a conflictual atmosphere in the industry. This

specific policy to monitor the whole process of foreign professionals’ employment opportunities in the Bangladesh Textile Industry.

Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET and Managing Director of Hams Group thanked all the guests for joining the seminar and requested the honorable minister for a specific rule for foreign employee recruitment.

Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro-Vice Chancellor, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) was the keynote speaker of the seminar.

“We export 42 billion dollars each year and around 6 billion dollars are taken away each year by the foreign employees. Around 2,50,000 foreign employees are working in Bangladesh textile industry.”

Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Pro-Vice Chancellor, BUFT

Table 1: Pay gap between expatriates and local managerial staff.

Firm-Level Country-Level

Reduced public fund due to

on

Upsides of Hiring Expats

Increase in overall profitability.

optimal workflow.

Not involve in internal politics.

transfer through foreign

of hiring expatriates on

atmosphere needs to be solved later by the local employees which is a barrier to creating a friendly environment.

He also highlighted the pay gap between expatriates and local managerial staff.

Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan also mentioned that during the corona pandemic, local textile engineers took the challenges to face the global business threat. He also highlighted that all foreign employees

are in the tax network. There should be proper monitoring and reporting.

He also shared the impact of hiring expatriates on the firms and the country. He expressed his views that industries should take proper initiative to provide training to upgrade the local engineers rather than investing dollars in foreign experts. “I am not against the foreign employees but we don’t want them in the dominating role,” saying this Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan mentioned that entrepreneurs should have a proper mindset to encourage the local textile engineers to take the challenges and take the companies forward.

Engr. Md. Abdus Sabur, Secretary of Science & Technology Affairs of Bangladesh Awami League and Ex-President, IEB said, “More than 400 Ph.D. holders are there in the Textile Industry. But we are going for foreign professionals. Yes, taxation should be proper and monitoring should be there.” He also said, “There is no alternative to R& D and training to overcome these problems.”

Engr. Md. Mozaffar Hossain, MP emphasized more investment in the Textile Sector rather than Garments. He also encouraged textile engineers to join in knitting and weaving industry as the industry has lack skilled professionals.

At the end Engr. Md. Masudur Rahman said, “We need to summarize the reasons behind not only this problem but also all the other problems related to the textile engineers community of Bangladesh and take proper steps to overcome.”

Crests were handed over to the guests, at the end of the seminar.

Bangladesh Bank raises repo rate to 5.75% to dampen inflation

Bangladesh Bank raised the repo rate – the interest rate at which banks borrow short-term funds – by 25 basis points to dampen inflation and curb exchange rate pressure in the country. In view of the increase in inflation in the world market, inflation is also increasing in Bangladesh.

The overnight repo rate has been raised to 5.75% from 5.50%, Bangladesh Bank said in a notification on its website on Thursday and the new rate change will come into effect from October 2.

The decision to raise rates comes just three months after a previous attempt to use the measure to curb inflation.

The reverse repo rate will remain unchanged at the current 4.00%, the central bank also said in the notice.

The move comes amid a currency slowdown due to rising inflation concerns and expensive imports, which also led to a decline in foreign exchange reserves. In June, inflation in Bangladesh rose 7.56 percent year-on-year, the highest

in nine years. It fell slightly to 7.48 percent in July.

Many central banks around the world have also raised their key policy rates in an attempt to control global inflation recently. The US Federal Reserve raised interest rates by 75 basis points for the third time in a row, and hinted even bigger hike in new projections.

The Bank of England raised its key interest rate to 2.25% from 1.75% last week and said it would continue to respond forcefully as needed to curb inflation. The Reserve Bank of India also raised the repo rate by 50 basis points to 5.90% from 5.40% last Friday.

Figure: Bangladesh Bank raised the repo rate – the interest rate at which banks borrow short-term funds – by 25 basis points to dampen inflation. Courtesy: Collected

Sayed Abdullah

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Reducing changeover time in

sewing

Experts Views

Manufacturing excellence: Road to industry 4.0

Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari, APRM™ I CSSBB™ I TPS™ I CBSI™

While the trends of consumer behavior in fashion business is changing disruptively since a decade, covid-19 outbreak in 2020, Geo-political situations in 2021 and currency inflation in 2022 took this paradigm shift into a roller coaster journey while any prediction in unsafe. Yet, global fashion retailers and manufacturers have identified the necessity of Hybrid work module, digitization and automation. But deciding this transformation is critical for every case either in similar business or different.

This article triggered into a generalized methodology to answer the two vital questions ‘Why’ & ‘How’. Furthermore, it triggered into more on strategic footprints, potential barriers and way forward towards the digital transformations based on real life situations in different manufacturing regions and cultures.

Global fashion retailers and manufacturers have identified few common areas to optimize to survive and grow together under a WIN-WIN platform, which are-

• Sustainable quality in service & product

• Speed to source, design, manufacture & delivery

• Effective strategy and efficient manufacturing

• Re-skill peoples for hybrid business model

Here comes the need for manufacturing excellence in business intelligence, big data analytics, and design flexibility & sustainable sourcing, inventory turnover ratio, supply chain agility and manufacturing

flexibility.

While defining needs of excellence, it requires a diagnosis of few things first, which are-

• Geological position & Socioeconomic factors.

• Min Wages and GDP of the region.

• Backward linkage sourcing facility.

• IRR (Internal rate of return), COGS (Cost of selling goods), DSCR (Debt service coverage ratio), ROI (Return on investment) & PBP (Payback period).

Consequently, needs of excellence are defined, measured and analyzed through methodological manner to comply end-to-end fashion cycle based on the product varieties, which are stated in fig: 1.

The above end-to-end fashion cycles are different case to case. Thus the strategies and actions are different, consumer behaviors and service/quality standards are different and need for speed is different either. Retailers and manufacturers then set their transformation strategies and cascade them down to execution models. The transformations are usually planned into three major segments, which are• Business transformations

• People transformations

• Process & workshop transformations

While defining transformation roadmaps, we follow some common methodological tactics to achieve

The duration of an end-to-end fashion cycle widely varies by company

Figure 1: End-to-end fashion cycle based on product varieties.

An initiative of Textile Today

The Team

Tareq Amin Founder & CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development

Arif Saleh Tasin Rahbar Hossain Shohel Ahmed Business Development

SN Abdullah Nurunnahar Tania Research & Development

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Engagement & Communication

Yeasin Mia Graphic Design

Zakir Hossain Jr. Executive, Web & IT

Ashraful Alam Umeduzzaman Khan Ucchas Cinematographer

Ariful Islam

Masudur Rahman Abir Basak

Contributions

On the Cover

Çağrı Makina Ltd. (Dewelli) is a Turkey based company and has well-known reputation all over the world in the area of Garment Washing & Dyeing, Dryer and Hydro-Extractor Machine.

Views

Manufacturing excellence: Road to industry 4.0

Interview

Project Exclusive Interview

Reducing changeover time in garments sewing line

“Türkish machinery is up to 20% cheaper than European machinery”

Sustainability Today

Journey of Fatullah Apparels to score 97

News & Analysis

IDES steps in Bangladesh with its space and energy saving dyeing machines Compliance BD Ltd. offers fire suppression system for fire protection infrastructure

& Biz

Chinese Qinda Outdoor to

World Bank through IDCOL to finance AKH Knitting and Dyeing Ltd’s Rooftop Solar Plant

Gava to invest $25.62mn on RMG sector at

Advertorial

SgT opens new laboratory in Bangladesh to support the textile industry with 360° solutions

» Case: 02

VOC: Higher washing rejections in denim garments.

CTQ: Unpredictable fabric defects in same style of garments.

Root causes

• Higher rates of particular defects in inspection passed fabrics which varies batch to batch.

Solutions

• Analyze fabric inspection results through SPC and Pareto chart. Conduct more inspections if a particular defect rate is more than 30% in inspected roles.

• Segregate roles by top defectives and set separate making and washing plans through trial and error. For example, if 30% garments are made with 120 roles which have 48% potential knots, the washing abrasions should be minimized to reduce the chances of creating holes after wash. Consequently following the defined recipe based on other top defectives in sewn garments will remarkably reduce the total number of wash rejections.

» Case:03

VOC: Measurement discrepancy and unpredictable variations during sewing garments.

CTQ: The trial production pattern/marker adjustment

Root cause

• The development pattern/marker, approved garment sample and bulk pattern/marker mismatch.

• During making first sample, given pattern are not properly adjusted as sample men are usually equipped with scissors, thus they do some necessary small adjustments during sewing.

Solutions

• Use single pcs auto cutter with auto fabric feeding and digital marker projection for precision cutting.

• Remove scissors from sample sewers, thus every adjustment should reflect to the original pattern and marker. It may increase some sample making lead time, yet can offset a huge measurement variations and cost of quality which eventually increases the efficiency of making.

» Case:04

VOC: Higher cost of manufacturing

CTQ: Reducing cost of poor quality & increasing making efficiency

Root Causes

• Lack of data tracking and big data analysis during making garments.

• Higher repairing rate and nonproductive time during making garments.

• Higher Man: Machine ratio during making garments. Solutions

• Use advanced excel spreadsheets/Power BI/ Planning software for manufacturing planning and tracking critical path of operations end-to-end.

• Use barcode/QR/RFID based real time tracking system in production

• Analyze top the defects/defective processes, Nonproductive times & Machine breakdown reasons in real time and take rapid actions. Start with small improvements daily basis with real time précised and accurate analyzed data sets and perform continuous improvements.

• Train mid management and workers on using IoT, smart phones and digital tools to ease their daily work routine.

• Install zig making techniques, advanced machinery and pressing equipment to simplify the making process and increase efficiency.

• Install automatic transportation system like hanger, conveyer belts to manufacturing units to minimize handling motions, reduce changeover complexity while making long garments or small size orders and there is a higher rate of changeover.

Conclusion

There are thousands of low hanging fruits to rip in terms of driving ‘Manufacturing Excellence’ through which we can get a remarkable improvement in business performances. Only thing is to DEFINE>MEASURE>ANALYZE in a systematic manner & IMPROVE>CONTROL through digitization and automation and control them through structured big data analysis.

Courtesy: McKinsey & Company; Techzen, ENA, YYC Technology ltd., KAEMI technologies Ltd. Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari

Reducing changeover time in garments sewing line

Md. Al Amin (Transformation Leader), Pabna Textile Engineering College

Abu Hasnat (Industry Expert),Ex Manager, Innovation Projects, Textile Today

Sayed Fazla Mostakin Emon (Industry Supervisor), VP - IE & Planning Dept. of Robintex Group Md. Solaiman (Academic Supervisor), Principal - Pabna Textile Engineering College

1. Introduction

In the readymade garments industry, order quantity is getting smaller day by day. Consumers are asking more fashionable products at low price and buyers are reducing their budget on same style & introducing new styles frequently to satisfy their customer needs.

To mitigate the scenario factories are facing an additional nonproductive time to adopt new styles. To keep the production lines running, factories need to face changeovers more frequently than before and a huge amount of nonproductive time to adopt new styles are hitting on factory’s profit line. Reducing the new style adopting time or changeover time become a top priority for them.

Factories are also trying to reduce lead time because ‘Time Is Money’.

On the other hand, loss time is the biggest waste rather than any waste in production oriented factories. The Department of Industrial Engineering & Production Planning are more focusing on that.

Other than collecting quality raw materials on time, getting production sample approved, sewing section is the point where it consumes a major time where delay is occurred

due to changeover known as ‘layout changeover time’. So if the industry can turn their ‘usual layout change’ into ‘Quick Changeover’, the amount of lost time will be reduced.

After achieving Quick Changeover (QCO) if it can be turned into ‘Zero Changeover’, the annual profit increment will be more visual in the next phase. The 3M (Man, Machine, Materials) management & proper application of lean manufacturing methods can make Zero Changeover (ZCO) time possible.

2. Experiment

A team was formed to work on reducing changeover time. The team documented the baseline as bellows:

Factory: RobinTex – Bangladesh German Joint Venture

Building Name: CBL-2 No. Of floor: 03 No. Of Line: 18 No. Of Machine: 400 No. Of Manpower: 600

Style: Basic Style of Robintex

3. Machine: All the sewing machine condition found good. These were set up at the starting of the factory time. During changeover if any machine shortage is noticed, maintenance

team bring machines from other buildings. Maintenance guys take actions if any problems faced during changeover. There are some idle machines as well on the floor.

4. Manpower: Manpower of the factory is enough for achieving the production. Attendance of the worker found pretty good. Operator starts work after starting time. Usually some operators work as helpers, sometimes few helpers work as operators. New operators’ performance found not good enough. There is no operation training for new process. Industrial Engineers are doing work study on the floor. There is no tracking on Quick Change over Time (QCO).

5. Method: The method found as usual & manual. Production department is planning in their head and acting according to that. Operators enjoy their leisure time due to mismanagement of trims and accessories input. No checklist and pre-activities are being followed to reduce the changeover time. The analyzer gives operation bulletin after layout so operation bulletin cannot be followed during or before changeover. Multiple clashes were noticed between production & industrial engineering department due to lack of unorganized process structure.

Result of baseline:

Sl No. Line Date

Previous Style Last Garments Output Time (BST)

New Style First Garments Output Time (BST)

Total changeover Time For One Garments

CBL-2/2/1 19/09/21 O1.05pm 02.37pm 1 hr 32 min

CBL-2/3/2 19/09/21 04.17pm 05.48 1 hr 31 min

CBL-2/4/2 20/09/21 10.21am 11.55am 1 hr 34 min

CBL-2/3/6 21/09/21 10.00am 11.37am 1 hr 37 min

CBL-2/3/2 21/09/21 11.55am 02.36pm 1 hr 41 min

CBL-2/2/4 21/09/21 05.00pm 6.30pm 1 hr 30 min

CBL-2/4/1 23/09/21 02.15pm 04.00pm 1 hr 45 min

CBL-2/3/5 23/09/21 10.12am 11.50am 1 hr 38 min

CBL-2/4/5 25/09/21 03.08pm 04.30pm 1 hr 22 min

CBL-2/2/2 26/09/21 05.02pm 06.37pm 1 hr 35 min

CBL-2/4/3 27/09/21 8.38am 09.57am 1 hr 35 min

CBL-2/3/4 27/09/21 11.37am 01.45pm 1 hr 31 min

CBL-2/2/5 28/09/21 4.30pm 6.00pm 1 hr 30 min

CBL-2/3/3 29/09/21 9.15am 10.50am 1 hr 35 min

CBL-2/4/6 30/09/21 11.00am 1.45pm 1 hr 45 min

CBL-2/3/1 30/09/21 2.39pm 04.15pm 1 hr 36 min

Total Hours = 25.28 (Hour). Average Changeover Time = 1 hour 34 minute

*CBL-2/2/1 (CBL-2 = Comptex Building-2 | 2= Floor No. | 1= Line No.)

*BST = (Bangladeshi Standard Time)

Some notes from this result sheet

1. Basic style SMV is 01.00 to 05.00 (T-shirt, line card 3pcs etc.)

2. Working Hour 11

3. Time 8.30 am to 8.30 am

4. Learning Carve For Day-1 = 50%, Day-2 =55%, Day – 3 = 65%…. Analyzing the baseline, the team planned to improve the situation by taking below initiatives: The Proposed Action, Planning Adjustment, Revised Methodology & Development key activities set for Zero Changeover Time (ZCO):

1. First hour hit: Need to ensure all operators & helpers presence on the floor at 8.25 am & line should start on exact starting time at 8.30 am so that we can achieve 1st hour production. For that we have to make an attendance sheet and monitor it properly. Responsible department -IE, Production & Admin.

2. Ensuring experienced manpower on the floor: Industrial Engineer should recruit new operators measuring their efficiency level and it should match with running line efficiency. no helper should work as operator & no operator should work as a helper. It’s a huge talent waste and has an impact in quality and production. Responsible Department – IE & Production.

3. Preparation for Upcoming Style: Approved sample, trims card, production file should be prepared for upcoming style before the input date. Responsible Department -IE, Production & Quality.

4. Prepare Constructive Potential Operation Bulletin (OB): When exact data of upcoming styles are informed, the analyser & IE team should prepare operation bulletin. Responsible Department- IE & Planning.

5. Layout discussion with relevant team: Critical issues or challenges of new styles to be fed in the line should be discussed on & collaboration with production team, technical team & quality

team is required. Responsible Department- IE, Production, Technical & Quality.

6. Critical operation management: It’s a major duty to find out upcoming critical operations & select operators for these operations. If operator need training, they should get training. Cross training can be arranged on daily basis in overtime. Responsible Department- IE, Production & Quality.

7. Machine requirement: Machine requirement is a mandatory pre-requisite for QCO. Machines should be ready to work on the floor according to OB & it should be done minimum one day before. Machine functionality should be checked prior to insert in line. Responsible Department-IE.

8. Equipment: Folder, Guide, Presser Foots and Patterns (Sewing, Marking & Iron) should be made available and functional by mechanic. Responsible Department- IE & Production.

9. Conducting PP Meeting: It is must to arrange a pre-production meeting before starting any layout.

This collaboration & co-operation will help any factory to reducing their time & effort. Responsible Department- IE, Production, Technical, Quality & Store.

10. Ensuring all accessories & trims are in house: After PP meeting all the obstacles & conditions should be noted & should be solved. According to the meeting it should be ensured that all accessories & trims are in house before layout. Responsible Department- IE, Production, Technical, Quality & Store.

11. Cut Kit: Before line feeding, need to ensure that all cut panels are ready and inspected according to size set. Responsible Department- IE, Production & Quality.

12. Using best possible line layout: After analyzing all previous data & discussing with production & quality department need to apply best possible line layout. Responsible Department- IE & Production.

13. MP allotment: Before starting line layout need to ensure all Man Power (MP) in line as per Operation Bulletin (OB). If there is a short in MP or gap in skill, necessary steps should be taken. Responsible Department- IE & Production.

14. Reducing line layout time: During layout each process with machine setup and quality ensuring should be followed up and time should be recorded. Responsible Department-IE & Production.

15. Method: Proper method Implementation on critical process need to ensure. Responsible Department- IE & Technical.

16. Proper workstation & line balancing: To ensure a balanced line, Industrial engineer should properly conduct work study, production study, hourly production monitoring & solve the problems on the floor. Responsible Department – IE.

17. Setting individual operator target: It should be pre fixed and communicated to operators.

Sometimes adjustments might require after setting up the line. Responsible Department -IE & Production.

18. Bottleneck removing: Bottleneck is a huge burden for any production process or QCO. Need to remove bottlenecks by taking actions such as motion study, time study, machine speed, adjusting motor RPM & motor pully etc. Responsible Department- IE & Production.

19. Learning Curve: Newly set up line should have a challenging learning curve for better performance. Incentive scheme should be applied on achieving learning curve. Responsible Department – IE & Production.

20. Input Monitoring: Continuous Feeding to the sewing line from cutting and store should be ensured. Responsible Department -Cutting & planning.

21. Quality: Inline quality inspection in regular interval at needle point and necessary steps should be taken. Responsible DepartmentQuality Assurance.

22. Awareness: Production team need to take some initiatives like motivation, regular meeting for absenteeism, line target, quality issues etc. which will be effective for QCO and ZCO as well

Implementation of productive visual Communication:

1. Red-Green Flag: It’s an interesting & productive visual management of QCO. Mainly there are 2 flags. The red flag should always be with the latest start operation of the new style and the green flag should be with the latest finished operation of the old style. The greater the distance between the two flags, the harder it will be to ZCO, and the shorter the distance, the faster the ZCO will be.

2. Layout Check List White Board: At the beginning of each line there should be a white board. Style name, buyer name or number, feeding date, responsible people

Going Green will create PROFIT,

PLANET & cared for PEOPLE

Your Trusted GREEN Partner

Ananta Ahmed

Green Building Expert, USGBC Faculty

AP BD+C, LEED AP EB O+M, LEED AP ID+C, LEED AP HOMES & LEED AP ND

Principal LEED Consultant and MD, 360 Total Solution Limited

etc. should be written at the beginning of this check list.

And the checklist should be look like –

Checklist Content Ready/Done (Yes/No)

Operation Bulletin

Layout discussion meeting

Machine availability/ Functionality checking

Trims and accessories Folder, gauge, guard, presser foot, etc.

Man power allotment

Line layout

Cut panel

Special machine

Approval sample

Pattern, iron Pattern etc.

3. QCO & ZCO Sheet: this is the most important sheet where line layout start time, line layout finish time, total time for line layout, total time for machine setting, previous style input area finish time, old style last garments output time, new style 1st garments output time etc. should be written so that the team can feel the responsibility and ownership.

Result: We tried our best to implement as many as points discussed above precisely and here is our achieved result –

Figure: After achieving Quick Changeover (QCO) if it can be turned into ‘Zero Changeover’, the annual profit increment will be more visual in the next phase.

*CBL-2/2/1 (CBL-2 = Comptex Building-2 | 2= Floor No. | 1= Line No.)

*BST = (Bangladeshi Standard Time)

Some notes from this result sheet

1. Basic style SMV is 01.00 to 05.00 (T-shirt, line card 3pcs etc.)

2. Working Hour=11

3. Time 8.30 am to 8.30 am

4. Learning Curve for Day-1 = 50%, Day-2 =55%, Day – 3 = 65%….

So, it’s proven that changeover time can be minimized to zero.

Conclusion: Though changeover time is minimized, still there are rooms for improvement. Achieving peak efficiency after changeover is another great area to focus on.

Sl No. Line Date Previous Style Last Garments Output Time (BST)

01

New Style First Garments Output Time (BST)

Total changeover Time For One Garments

CBL-2/2/4 26/10/2021 09.30 am 9.30 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/4/1 26/10/2021 10.56 pm 10.56 pm 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/3/5 26/10/2021 12.54 pm 12.54 pm 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/4/5 26/10/2021 09.01 am 09.01 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/2/1 27/10/2021 02.12 pm 02.13pm 1 min 0 hr

CBL-2/3/2 27/10/2021 08.21 am 08.21 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/4/2 27/10/2021 04.40 pm 04.42 pm 2 min 0 hr

CBL-2/3/6 27/10/2021 09.11 am 09.11 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/3/1 28/10/2021 08.25 am 08.25 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/4/3 28/10/2021 04.30 pm 04.30 pm 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/3/6 28/10/2021 10.30 am 10.30 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/2/5 30/10/2021 03.43 pm 03.45 pm 2 min 0 hr

CBL-2/3/4 30/10/2021 12.28 pm 12.28 pm 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/4/3 31/10/2021 10.25 am 10.25 am 0 min 0 hr

CBL-2/2/2 31/10/2021 08.33 am 08.35 am 2 min 0 hr

CBL-2/4/5 31/10/2021 02.17 pm 02.17 pm 0 min 0 hr

Total Hours = 0 Hour, 7 minutes Total Average Changeover Time = 0 hour 0 minute

House # 23, Road # 9/B, Nikunja-1, Dhaka Call: +88 01726 777 147, Phone: +8802 410 403 05, 410 403 06 E-mail: tawfiq.bd1@gmail.com texcorp@bangla.net.bd Web: www.texcorpbd.co

Turkish fabric dyeing and finishing machine manufacturer IDES, effectively supporting the fabric dyeing factories all over Turkey. And for 9 years it has brought its latest innovations to Bangladesh. From installation to warranty, and repair to field servicing of automation and textile machinery, IDES supports its customers with a dedicated team of experienced process engineers and technicians. The company is led by veterans who pose a long experience in the Turkish fabric dyeing industry. One of them is Omer EMEL, the sales Director for Bangladesh, Egypt, and Pakistan of IDES Textile Machinery. He has 25 years of working experiences in the fabric dyeing industry. Omer EMEL is working relentlessly with IDES Textile Machinery to reflect his experience and knowledge on the innovative designs of their dyeing machines.

In a recent interview with Textile Today, Omer EMEL introduced his company, pointed out the uniqueness of the IDES Textile dyeing machines, and shared his expectations for the future textile industry of Bangladesh.

“

IDES steps in Bangladesh with its space and energy saving dyeing machines

BTT Interview

Textile Today: Please introduce your company’s innovative approaches for the fabric dyeing industry.

Omer EMEL: We introduce our energy and water-efficient fabric dyeing machines which require less compared to conventional machines to the Bangladeshi dye houses. We have specially modified nozzles, and pumps in our fabric dyeing machines to improve water and energy efficiency. We have modified our heat exchanger in a way that has increased its efficiency and it can save huge energy. The special chemical dosing system installed in the machine is designed to ensure

Omer EMEL: The innovative heightened J-boxes used in the machines can dye fabrics with less water without plaiter systems which results in significant savings in energy consumption of a fabric dyeing factory. The innovative designs of the heat-exchangers increase the energy efficiency significantly as well as the dosing system that IDES has installed in its fabric dyeing machines ensures better evenness of the dyed fabrics. Pumps with special specifications used in these fabric dyeing machines ensure the flow of water inside the J-box and alleviate the crease problem of the fabrics in dyeing processes. It also increases the loading capacity of

Exclusive

Omer EMEL, Sales Director (Bangladesh, Egypt, and Pakistan), IDES Textile Machinery

Bangladesh

IDES developed such a good machine which consumes very less energy and works with high efficiency. In terms of the space, volume, water flow, quantity of the water IDES machine is totally different than the other machines.

both Bangladesh and Turkey, limited space is a big problem. IDES developed such a good machine which consumes very less energy and works with high efficiency. In terms of the space, volume, water flow, quantity of the water IDES machine is totally different than the other machines. These machines are more efficient and consume less energy. Specially designed nozzles and pumps with special specification in our machines make dyeing possible without any crease mark on the dyed fabrics.

Pump capacity of IDES machine is 30% to 40% higher than the conventional machines. With this capacity our machines can handle fabrics with a wide range of GSM without any problem. The water flow system of our machine is designed to ensure equal waterflow to all nozzles that ensures equal waterflow to all the dyeing chambers. It ensure evenness of dyeing. Our machines can handle fabrics ranging from 40 to 500 GSM with its special pump specifications. With its special pumps and nozzle diameter, our machine significantly reduces the crease mark of the dyed fabrics.

Developing good things for the environment rather than only for business is the cornerstone of our business.

Textile Today: Could the IDES machines reduce M:L ratio in fabric dyeing?

Omer EMEL: Truly speaking M:L ratio is not a big issue for us. Our focus is on reducing total water consumption. The IDES fabric dyeing machines can dye the dry fabrics with a 1:4 to 1:5 liquor ratio and the wet fabrics with a 1:2 to 1:3 liquor ratio. But it is up to the process engineers whether they can maintain this ratio or not. It depends on various factors like fiber types, dye types, quantity, etc. For example, with our machine, we have dyed one kg of polyester-cotton blended fabric of Navy dark shade with 25.6 L of water only! Our machines can ensure dyeing with very less water.

Textile Today: Tell us something about your research and development process. How do you work?

Omer EMEL: Our manufacturing plant of IDES is situated in Istanbul which is surrounded by about 600 big dyeing facilities. From the beginning, our Research and Development team is working with the nearby factories to solve their fabric dyeing problems with their innovative designs. Our R&D philosophy is that we observe the problems of the dyeing factories and engage our R&D team to find out solutions. When we develop something, it is an industry requirement. We never work only on a theoretical basis. Right now, we are working on developing an improved dosing system to improve the loading capacity of our fabric dyeing machines by 20%.

Textile Today: How do you observe the Russia-Ukraine war from the Bangladesh perspective as most of the buyers are EU based?

Omer EMEL: As the Russia-Ukraine conflict has caused the natural gas price to soar in Europe, the shopping behavior of European customers has drastically deteriorated. Its impact is visible in the Bangladeshi textile industry, order flow has gone down. I believe that the situation will improve after a few months and the European market will go back to its normality.

Textile Today: What is your future plan in Bangladesh?

Omer EMEL: We believe Bangladesh will be a good market for our machines as we are continuously focusing on adding new features to our machines. All the spare parts of our dyeing machines will be available in Bangladesh with a team of experienced technicians who can continuously support our customers with after-sales servicing and they can provide all the spare parts in Bangladesh. Our process engineers will also stay in Bangladesh to help the dye houses to maintain best practices with our fabric dyeing machines.

Textile Today: What do you expect for the future textile industry of Bangladesh?

Omer EMEL: The future of the textile industry of Bangladesh is better and the textile manufacturers should utilize online channels to increase their business by accessing other markets.

Compliance BD Ltd. offers fire suppression system for fire protection infrastructure

Md. Abdulla Al Noman, Sr. Engineer (Design & Application), Compliance BD Limited

A fire suppression system is an integral part of any fire protection infrastructure. ‘Fire suppression’ is a collective term for any engineering group of units that are designed to put out a fire. This can be achieved by applying an extinguishing substance such as water, foam or chemical compounds. We, Compliance BD Limited, provide consultancy, supply and installation of all types of Automatic fire suppression system.

How does a fire suppression system work?

A fire suppression system will have built-in components to detect fires as early as possible. These components will first identify the presence of flames and smoke. The suppression system will then initiate an alarm, so the blaze can be subdued before it has the chance to spread. A fire suppression system can be considered an ‘active’ fire protection method because the system is triggered in response to the presence of fire. A fire suppression system also contains a range of components that ‘actively’ work to extinguish flames and smoke.

What is the difference between a fire sprinkler and a fire suppression system?

Both fire suppression systems and sprinkler systems can control or extinguish fires and are activated when detecting heat or smoke. A fire suppression system, however, doesn’t use water as it can be ineffective in certain types of fires. For example, a facility that uses combustible gas or oil, for instance, would not benefit from

using water as a fire suppressing agent. For this reason, fire suppression systems are more common in industrial environments than traditional water sprinkler systems.

Why use an automatic fire suppression system?

Just like a traditional system, an automatic fire suppression system will consist of an element that detects heat and smoke and a suppression agent container.

There will also often be a manual activation system that acts as a failsafe in the case that the automatic system isn’t triggered.

The main benefit of an automatic fire suppression system is that they eliminate the need for human activation or intervention. Not only does this reduce the risk to occupants’ safety, but it is also ideal for extinguishing fires in remote or less accessible areas of a building or estate.

When is a fire suppression system required?

Fire suppression systems should be installed in buildings where a sprinkler system may not be the most effective method of fire protection. These can include rooms that contain a large amount of electrical equipment, irreplaceable assets or perishable items that could be susceptible to water damage.

What are the different types of fire suppression?

Broadly speaking, there are five main types of fire suppression systems – all of which have unique properties and benefits based on the respective space in need of protection:

Gas systems

Gas suppression systems store fire-suppressing liquids, which are pressurized with nitrogen. These liquids contain some chemical agent called FM-200, Novec 1230, CO2 Fire Suppression, which are quickly released to immediately suppress the flames. Since these systems don’t use any water, they’re particularly beneficial for rooms with large amounts of electrical equipment such as switchboards or server rooms. The gaseous agent is initially condensed into liquid form and stored in compact cylinders, making these systems easy to transport and store.

Wet chemical foam systems for kitchens

Wet chemical foam systems are specifically designed for suppressing fires in kitchens. These kitchen fire suppression systems work by quickly emitting a waterbased chemical foam agent directly into a small, localized area. They are usually placed under the canopies of cookers and are activated by either a manual switch or a heat link.

Water mist systems

Water mist systems pose a viable fire suppression solution for spaces that cannot be exposed to large amounts of water. They work by producing droplets that are much smaller than conventional sprinkler systems. This creates a layer of steam that starves fires of oxygen, quickly reducing the temperature of the affected area. Since they use much less water than traditional sprinklers, they can to some extent be considered a

more sustainable fire suppression method.

Foam deluge systems

One of the biggest challenges in fire suppression is effectively safeguarding areas that contain flammable liquids. Foam deluge systems are the most effective means of controlling the spread of these environments. For this reason, they are commonly installed in refineries, aircraft hangers and industrial warehouses. A fire in these types of environments can accelerate tremendously quickly. Therefore, foam deluge systems are designed for the quick widespread application of suppressive materials. Foam deluge systems use a mixture of foam and water to quickly control burning flammable liquids, cooling the surface area. The consistency of the foam causes a thick blanket to starve fires of oxygen and inhibit the release of flammable gases, effectively smothering the blaze. In this sense, they are not unlike

conventional fire extinguishers.

Pneumatic heat detection tubes

Pneumatic heat detection tubes are designed in a way that makes them very similar to fire extinguishers. Therefore, they can be considered the most compact and mobile fire suppression system. These tubes have two primary components: a pipe and a valve. The pipe is installed around the potential source of fire; when it reaches a certain temperature, it emits a suppressive agent directly onto the flames via the valve.

Pneumatic heat detection tubes tackle fires in their beginning stages, located in small areas with little room for maneuver. Therefore, they are ideal for tackling fires in cabinets and cupboards, as well as boats and vehicles.

Which industries commonly use fire

suppression systems?

While all industries use fire suppression systems to ensure safer work environments and to reduce property damage, certain sectors have specific requirements which make it even more of a priority to maintain a fully compliant fire suppression system.

• Industrial and manufacturing

• Warehousing and storage

• Data centers and server rooms

• Power House & Power Generation

We hope that this article has helped you gain a basic grounding in the purpose, function and requirements of a fire suppression system.

Author

Md. Abdulla Al Noman Sr. Engineer (Design & Application) Compliance BD Limited

World Bank through IDCOL to finance AKH Knitting and Dyeing Ltd’s Rooftop Solar Plant

Sayed Abdullah

On 22 September, World Bank representatives visited AKH Knitting and Dyeing Ltd (AKDL) 2.8 MW Rooftop Solar Power Plant. World Bank – through Infrastructure Development Company Limited (IDCOL) – has provided 80% debt finance for the AKH Knitting and Dyeing Ltd’s 2.8 MW Rooftop Solar Power Plant at Dhamrai project. The total project cost is BDT 169 million.

A delegation including Dandan Chen, Operations Manager (Bangladesh), the World Bank; Alamgir Morshed, CEO, IDCOL; Md. Enamul Karim Pavel, Head of Renewable Energy, IDCOL; Hassan Muhaiminul Aziz, Assistant Vice President (Monitoring), IDCOL visited the plant on 22nd September. While visionary leader Shamsul Alam, Managing Director of AKH Group and AKDL Plant Head Lt. Col. (Retd.) Shahriar Kabir welcomed the guests. After visiting the rooftop solar project, the World Bank and IDCOL team expressed their satisfaction about the project. They have thanked AKH management for the solar project initiative.

Figure: IDCOL and World Bank representatives visited AKH Knitting and Dyeing Ltd’s 2.8 MW Rooftop Solar Power Plant.

AKH Knitting and Dyeing Ltd. factory successfully installed the 2.8 MW rooftop solar project. Solar EPC Development Ltd. successfully commissioned the 2.8 MW rooftop solar project at AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd. From Solar EPC Development Ltd. side, Emamul Kabir, GM (Operation & Development), and Engr. Shifat also was present in the program.

KOMİD (Türkish Garment Automation and Machinery Manufacturers Association) is established for all types of Türkish machinery, automation, IT solution manufacturers for the garment industry. Türkish machinery manufacturers are growing their success in global markets and in the domestic apparel market, adding more value to the Türkish economy and brand perception every day by exceeding the worldrecognized technology standards.

In this context, it is extremely important for both stakeholders and the country’s economy that Türkish companies manufacturing automation machinery can gather within the framework of their common interests, grow in international markets by making sectoral evaluations and strategic partnerships and collaborations together. For this reason, it is extremely essential to increase the number of KOMİD members and similar specialty associations.

Tuncay KORU, President, KOMİD shared KOMİD’s vision and aim with Tareq Amin, Editor, Textile Today in the International Garment Machinery Expo (IGM) in Istanbul, Türkiye.

Türkish Machinery manufacturers have a long history of working with European manufacturers from fixing, repairing and supporting them. Which has given us a lot of information, capacity and manpower buildup. So, entrepreneurs with technical background realized that they can build and provide same quality as of Europeans.

“Türkish machinery is up to 20% cheaper than European machinery”

Special Correspondent

Textile Today: Kindly share us the KOMİD’s vision and aim.

Tuncay KORU: KOMİD was founded two and a half years ago. Now we have around 60 members and our members are growing rapidly. Our number one aim is to increase the export of Türkish textile and garment machinery. Obviously, our main target export markets are countries like Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Vietnam and North African countries for our garment and textile machinery.

KOMİD has been helping its members to participate in leading International Exhibitions, solve legal, transport, logistics, etc. problems. As an association, we help our members to grow in business.

Textile Today: As a machinery manufacturing country what is the strength of Türkish machinery companies?

Tuncay KORU: Global textile and apparel industry is still looks up to European machinery – when it comes to quality, innovation and automation – as they are the top quality provider of machinery. On the other hand, Türkish garment machinery manufacturers are picking up the pace in terms of innovation and automation to reach European quality. We have relatively cheap labor, as a result, price-wise, Türkish machinery companies provide machinery up to 15% to 20% cheaper than European machinery.

In addition, Türkiye has a logistic advantage and is very close to the

Tuncay KORU President, KOMİD

markets. It gives a logistic edge over China. As we are only three days’ drive away from Europe, Russia and many other countries. Whereas it take around 45 days from China to deliver a machine.

As for textile and garment prospects, Türkiye is one of the top 5 textile and garment manufacturing countries. The bigger the industry grows – the bigger the prospect for machinery manufacturers. Now, you can see in this IGM Expo itself, that most of the exhibitors are machinery manufacturers. It depicts our transformation over the 10 to 15 years – from textile machinery importing nation, we are now exporting.

Textile Today: How did Türkiye achieve this transformation in this short span of time?

Tuncay KORU: Türkish Machinery manufacturers have a long history of working with European manufacturers from fixing, repairing and supporting them. Which has given us a lot of information, capacity and manpower buildup. So,

entrepreneurs with technical background realized that they can build and provide same quality as of Europeans.

Also, it is possible due to the widely availability of programmable components, spare parts, CAD drawings, and available PSE units. Meaning, that entrepreneurs do not need to invest a considerable amount to initiate production. This is how the transformation happened in this short span of time.

Textile Today: Kindly share us the prospect of Türkish garment industry.

Tuncay KORU: Türkish garment industry is growing rapidly. All Türkiysh garment factories are booked from February to March. The garment industry in Türkiye is booming. It is also due to the Russia-Ukraine situation – as Europe is facing a supply chain crisis. Which is why sourcing from Türkiye increased a lot. I will say, that not only the garment sector is booming but other industries are also booked.

On the other hand, the RussiaUkraine conflict has negatively impacted us as sourcing spare parts and other components become difficult and costly. In addition, the rising inflation and Türkish Lira devaluation against US$ in Türkiye is severely hampering the manufacturing sector.

Textile Today: Kindly share us the local and international percentage of sales in IGM Exhibition.

Tuncay KORU: In IGM, the sales is 20% local and 80% global. This is a professional Exhibition. And we are really happy with the standards. A huge number of local and global exhibitors, industry people are participating in IGM.

Textile Today: How Türkish govt. is aiding the sector?

Tuncay KORU: I would urge the Türkish govt. to give us more support as we are not receiving proper support. Also, customs processing should be smoothened to help us in reducing lead time and reduce cost. We also urge the Türkish govt. to exempt the sample fabric and spare parts from the custom procedure.

Journey of Fatullah Apparels to score 97

NA Tania

After a systematic journey to be a green infrastructure the knitwear manufacturing factory Fatullah Apparels Ltd. received the LEED Platinum Certification from the USGBC, with the score of 97 out of 110 points on September 07.

Fatullah Apparels Chief Executive Officer (CEO) and Founder Fazlee Shamim Ehsan said, “This achievement is not only for me but also for Bangladesh. Now we can say with pride that Bangladesh’s apparel industry is much safer than others.”

“It was my dream that my factory would become one of the best ecofriendly factories in the world and accordingly I set it up in a planned way. Thanks to almighty that finally I achieved it,” he said with joy.

According to Bangladesh Garment

Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) data, after receiving the certification of the three factories, the country has 171 green certified apparel factories now, which is a record compared to any other countries, and 500 other factories are awaiting for certification.

Fatullah Apparels Ltd achieved LEED certification for implementing practical and measurable strategies and solutions aimed at achieving high performance in location and transportation, sustainable site development, water efficiency, energy and atmosphere, materials and resources, Indoor environmental quality and Innovation.

Also it was set up on a two twostorey buildings – one is used

Figure: Fatullah Apparels Ltd. received the LEED Platinum Certification from the USGBC, with the score of 97 out of 110 points.

for production and the other for administration. Electricity supply for both buildings came through renewable energy and national grid line. The factory reserves rain water. The factory comply with all codes of conducts of compliance, even they are also enjoying many extra facilities than other factories such as high wages.

Chinese Qinda Outdoor to invest $12mn in Ishwardi EPZ

Arif Uz-Zaman

Chinese company Qinda Outdoor (BD) Company Limited is going to set up a tent, sleeping bag and bag manufacturing plant at Ishwardi EPZ. This wholly foreign-owned company will invest $12 million which will create employment opportunities for 2973 Bangladeshi citizens.

An agreement in this regard has signed between Bangladesh Export Processing Zone Authority (BEPZA) and Qinda Outdoor (BD) Company Limited in Dhaka on Tuesday (27 September). Ali Reza Mazid, investment promotion member of Bepza, and Zhang Yan, representative of Qinda Outdoor, signed the agreement on behalf of their respective organisations at Bepza Complex. Bepza Executive

Chairman Major General Abul Kalam Mohammad Ziaur Rahman, NDC, PSC was present at the signing ceremony.

According to Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (Bepza) press release the company will produce annually 2 million pieces of tents, canopy, bags, sleeping bags, backpacks, tarpaulins, awnings, sunblinds, mosquito nets, portable folding chairs, recycle bins and umbrellas.

Among others, Mohammad Faruque Alam, Bepza Member (Engineering), Nafisa Banu, Member (Finance), Md. Zakir Hossain Chowdhury, Executive Director (Administration), Nazma Binte Alamgir Executive Director (Public Relations), Md Tanvir

Hossain, Executive Director (Investment Development) and Khorshid Alam, Executive Director (Enterprise Services) were present in the signing ceremony.

Gava to invest $25.62mn on RMG sector at Dhaka EPZ

Desk Report

Hong Kong-Sri Lanka-Switzerlandowned company Ms Gava Private Limited is going to invest $25.62 million to set up RMG factory at Dhaka Export Processing Zone (DEPZ). This project will create about 3,086 employment opportunities for Bangladeshi nationals.

DEPZ mentioned that Gava Private Limited signed the agreement to purchase the A-One BD Limited Company through auction process and to run their business here.

Earlier DEPZ’s Italian knitting factory A-One BD, were shut down due to a business downturn. After that the Bangladesh Export Processing Zone Authority (BEPZA) has decided to take steps for the auction process to continue the investment flow along with workers’ employment.

According to DEPZ officials, Gava

will produce annually 4.4 million pcs of Jacket, Fleece Jacket, T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Sweater, Trousers, Coverall, Stretch Pant, Denim Pant, Shorts, Shirt, SweatShirt, Hi-Vis Shirt, and Vest.

In the signing ceremony, Ali Reza Mazid, Member (Investment Promotion) of BEPZA and Prasanna Kumar Jayasinghe, Director of Gava Private Limited signed on behalf of their respective organizations at BEPZA Complex in the city. BEPZA

Executive Chairman Major General Abul Kalam Mohammad Ziaur Rahman, NDC, psc witnessed the agreement.

Member (Engineering) Mohammad Faruque Alam, Member (Finance) Nafisa Banu, Executive Director (Administration) Md Zakir Hossain Chowdhury, Executive Director

(Public Relations) Nazma Binte Alamgir, Executive Director (Investment Promotion), Md Tanvir Hossain and Executive Director (Enterprise Services) and Md Khorshid Alam were present with others during the signing ceremony.

Figure: DEPZ mentioned that Gava Private Limited signed the agreement to purchase the A-One BD Limited Company through auction process and to run their business here. Courtesy: Collected

Figure: Ali Reza Mazid, investment promotion member of Bepza, and Zhang Yan, representative of Qinda Outdoor, signed an agreement on behalf of their respective organisations at Bepza Complex in Dhaka on Tuesday. Courtesy: Collected

SgT opens new laboratory in Bangladesh to support the textile industry with 360° solutions

Textile Today Report

SgT - a world leader in quality management solutions specializing in textiles and apparel - is proud to announce the opening of its new laboratory in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. The opening ceremony, held on September 24, was attended by more than 100 professionals from the textile apparel industry.

This milestone further strengthens SgT’s commitment to supporting its customers’ global sourcing strategy with a one-stop shop solution covering compliance, performance, and quality. The laboratory offers agile, tailor-made solutions that go beyond the pass–fail approach, with wide-ranging technical expertise and a high level of service.

This laboratory complements SgT’s worldwide network of laboratories and locally-based experts, providing 360° solutions for its customers. It increases SgT’s range of operations and strengthens the synergy across locations.

SgT’s global solutions extend beyond the walls of the lab

supporting brands and vendors with mills / lab audit certification, correlation, root cause analysis, retro-engineering, etc.

Founded in 1990, SgT is an independent solution provider, wholly owned by Worms Safety, the first global alliance of specialist companies in specific product categories with expert knowledge of regulatory compliance, safety, and quality.

From development to end of production, SgT supports securing the safety and quality of its partners’ products via audits, technical assistance, inspections, and laboratory testing, offering preventive solutions aimed at identifying risks at the earlier stages of the supply chain. With over 5,000 factories and mills visited annually, SgT offers solid expertise that combines handson production with preventative approaches.

As a part of the group’s commitment to bringing innovative solutions to its

customers, SgT has developed a patented scientific method to verify and quantify the amount of recycled polyester in products, helping brands substantiate their marketing claims. SgT also introduced the Chem Scan Check, which can identify more than 285 substances in one single test, allowing for an advanced level of visibility within a fast timeframe.

SgT’s partners include leading international retailers, manufacturers, and importers of ready-to-wear children’s clothing, workwear, outdoor clothing, sportswear, underwear, and luxury clothing.

SgT’s team of experts in Bangladesh, with more than 20 years of experience, looks forward to supporting customers with advanced, personalized testing solutions in this exciting new space. You can find them at: 5th B Floor, The Camellia Building at House 09, Road 13, Sector 04, Uttara Model Town, Dhaka 1230.

Figure 1: Thierry LENOIR, Worms Safety CEO; Marie-Annabelle MERMAZ, Managing Director Consumer Product Division at Worms Safety and Daniela Burling, Global Deputy General Manager at Worms Safety laboratories

Unveiling industry best practices

overlapping: a

One of the Global Leaders in Viscose Staple Fibre

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is the first fully integrated viscose rayon producer in Asia from renewable plantations to viscose fibres. Our 240,000-tonne capacity mill located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau, Indonesia uses the latest viscose rayon production technology to produce consistent, high-quality rayon for use in textile and personal hygiene products.

October 2022

Unveiling industry best practices Apparel accessories & fashion

One of the Global Leaders in Viscose Staple Fibre

the

fully

producer in Asia

in Pangkalan

Riau,

the

produce

Work overlapping: a secret disease in the apparel industry

Nazmut Tarek

An employer's nightmare is hearing that a team member has completed a task that already exists or that two people have worked towards the same goal. Tasks do not overlap by default. You operate with loopholes that allow duplicates to go unnoticed. Until they are resolved, tasks will continue to overlap. In the workplace, managing overlapping tasks can save time, reduce resource consumption, and increase productivity.

Work overlap is very common in the apparel business, especially within the team and crossfunctional teams.

Work-overlapping within the team

• Lack of belief in subordinates: Some managers are too perfectionist and don’t have trust in their subordinates, which pushes them to replicate the job for perfection. Sometimes, they assign the same task to different people to get the best result, which ultimately makes them a less productive team.

if someone else is already working on the same project will end up in a vicious circle. It is very important to have a smooth communication channel in order to eliminate overlapping tasks.

• Long hierarchy ladder where job roles are not defined: Some companies maintain a long hierarchy ladder. Even some merchandising teams have ladders that go ten steps below, so defining a job is incredibly difficult. As a result, more and more jobs are overlapping or being missed. It's always better to keep a small hierarchical structure where everybody has a specific job to do.

• Insufficient transparency and access: A lot of tasks are duplicated because one team is unaware of the activities of the other. One team, for example, prepared a ladies' wear presentation for a customer, while the other team had done so months before. This overlapping cycle will continue unless the department head takes steps to improve transparency and accessibility. In large organizations, it may not be feasible to have regular meetings, but team leaders can communicate with each other about the projects that they are engaged in. If you complete a project, leave a legacy of the work you did. Make your work accessible to all relevant team members within the company.

Make sure that a database exists that allows for easy access to previous research and project efforts. This will help colleagues who attempt future projects to gather knowledge on the completed work, eliminating room for work duplication.

Work-overlapping within the cross-functional team

Cross-functional teams are the most likely to have work overlap. Here we will try to focus on key areas.

• Unnecessary jump on matter: Some managers think they should randomly jump on issues. So, they just start replying to emails that their subordinates usually handle. So, sometimes it is seen that there are multiple replies to the same issue. The situation gets worse if there is any contradictory message between the two.

• Communication and cooperation among team members: How do you assign tasks? You might assign the same task to multiple people, if you do not have a proper structure for delegating tasks. Teammates who proceed without first checking

• Communication bypass: Communication bypass is very common in the apparel industry. For example, to learn about fabric updates, the merchandising team meets with the fabric planning team. After collecting data from them, they meet with the garment planning team. On the other hand, the garment planning team could easily meet with the fabric planning team to discuss their requirements. This could help better planning in both ways. Some organizations are seeing excellent results by optimizing this overlapping task. Merchandising, stores, and trim suppliers also experience similar issues. For any quantity, quality or other issues

Figure: Work overlap is very common in the apparel business, especially within the team and cross-functional teams.

On the Cover

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is the first fully integrated viscose rayon producer in Asia from renewable plantations to viscose fibres.

Tareq Amin

& CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir

of

Development

overlapping: a secret

in the

Arif Saleh

Hossain Shohel Ahmed Business Development

Abdullah Nurunnahar Tania Research & Development

Kumar Saha

Connecting

into

business

industry

Asian market can be a game changer for Bangladesh RMG crisis

dots:

Advertorial

a Positive Impact on Climate and Nature

Advertorial

Duster Ltd and aeoon Technologies have joined forces to bring DTG printing solutions to Bangladesh market

Printing Today

DTG printing market to reach $1.82 bn by 2032

store department Knock on the merchandiser's door for a solution when they could easily solve the problem with suppliers while keeping the CC with the merchandiser. There are numerous similar examples that can be used to demonstrate the existence of overlapping tasks.

• Lack of ownership: When cross-functional teams are not empowered or they refuse to take ownership, it leads to overlapping or duplicating work among the teams due to conflicting priorities. In many organizations, siloed functions and hierarchical decision-making practices exist, causing conflict among team members due to late decisions. A trend toward compound, distributed cross-functional structures results in changing circumstances and accelerating business processes.

• Inefficient workflow: Organizations that wish to run smoothly must ensure efficient workflow. In most businesses, workflow problems are very real, and they often aren't aware of them. Inefficient workflow is the major reason for the completion of repetitive or unnecessary tasks. Writing down your team's priorities so they have a record of them for future reference is one of the first steps

in developing a productive workflow. When it is outdated, it may lead to repetitive tasks and seriously affect your deadline. This issue might have a long-term fix in automation. In conclusion, employees should not reinvent the wheel or re-do something that has already been completed unless it requires significant improvements or modifications that have been discussed with the team in advance. It happens quite often when a company works on process development and employees are trying to reinvent something of which a better version is already available at other companies or in other geographical locations. In a global village, it’s not so difficult to have them and make some proper adjustments following your company’s ultimate goal.

Carrefour looks into expanding business base in Bangladesh

Sayed Abdullah

Jean Marie Fouque, Director, Textile Global Sourcing, Carrefour, paid a courtesy visit to BGMEA President Faruque Hassan at BGMEA Complex on September 19.

They had discussions about different RMG traderelated issues, including challenges and opportunities of Bangladesh’s RMG industry.

They talked about how Carrefour could strengthen its partnership with Bangladeshi suppliers to expand business base in Bangladesh.

Prospects of increasing apparel sourcing from Bangladesh also got importance during their talks.

They also discussed possible collaboration between Carrefour and BGMEA to support the Centre of Innovation Efficiency and OSH. The Centre has been established by BGMEA to support Bangladesh’s RMG industry with knowledge, skills and technical knowhow to face the future challenges and enhance its competitiveness.

Carrefour is a French multinational retail and wholesaling corporation headquartered in Massy, France.

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan invited Jean Marie

Fouque to the “Made in Bangladesh Week” which will be organized by BGMEA on 12-18 November this year to showcase prospects and strengths of the BD RMG industry.

Rezwan Murshed, Country Head (Bangladesh and Pakistan); Veronique Grevet, CSR Manager, and Nasir Uddin Tipu, Manager, Production and Quality, Global Sourcing Carrefour, Dhaka office; were also present on the occasion.

Figure: Carrefour is a French multinational retail and wholesaling corporation headquartered in Massy, France.

Nazmut Tarek Business Development Manager, Nahl Group

Author

Connecting the dots: fashion and SDGs

Sabbir Rahman Khan

The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), set of global goals developed by the United Nations, recognize that ending poverty and other inequalities must go together with strategies for the betterment of people and planet while ensuring peace and prosperity. Dubbed as 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, it aims to achieve 17 universally agreed-upon aspirational goals. It is of no doubt that the SDGs will not be achieved without the active participation of all global and local actors including governments, the private sector, and civil society representing sectors. The global fashion industry has an enormous social impact and ecological footprint. Many of us do not understand how the clothes we wear every day affects the world around us. The article will shed light on what do the goals mean for an industry like fashion.

Being one of the largest employers in the world, especially for women, it makes complete sense that SDGs offer a unique opportunity for fashion industry to align important sustainability initiatives. Also, considering the industry’s daily impact on societies and the environment, it can mobilize expertise, innovation, technology, and resources. This, in turn, will enable the industry people to accelerate their efforts to address pertinent challenges in the global textile value chain. Different global bodies already are in dialogue on the ways fashion must integrate efforts to protect the environment and the people working throughout supply chains. Additionally, discussions are evident around redefining future sourcing models and how sourcing countries can integrate the SDGs into their national plans.

Given the facts, time is of the essence for this industry to contribute to the SDGs by 2030. Also, we as consumers are not free of responsibility. Being responsive to SDGs at our own levels, we will be able to relate how our clothes affect global issues such as poverty, gender inequality, human rights abuses, global warming, microplastic pollution in our oceans, and the loss of forests and biodiversity. Without further ado, let us explore some of the SDGs most closely related to the fashion industry, take note of how your brand can collaborate in their achievement.

Goal 1 (No poverty): A study commissioned by Deloitte for Oxfam found that only 4% of the price of a garment goes to the person who makes it. It is time

Figure: SDGs will not be achieved without the active participation of all global fashion industry players.

for the industry to commit to paying fair wages and ensure that no one within the supply chain is living beneath the poverty line. This target is closely linked to the SDG 8, which seeks to promote decent work and economic growth.

Goal 3 (Good health & well-being): The management of factories must complete regular audits on health and safety regulations. Furthermore, there should be time-bound legislation on the usage of toxic chemicals and pollutants. Also, regular monitoring of waste disposal practice must be ensured.

Goal 4 (Quality education): Most of the factories of the fashion brands are located at the developing countries, particularly the third world one. Thus, it is high time for companies operating in disadvantaged communities to create and sustain educational opportunities. It must include work-related training qualifications and ensure employees are able to earn enough money to send their families to school and afford quality childcare.

Goal 5 (Gender equality): The majority of people working in the fashion industry are female (75% approx.). Sadly, they tend to be in the junior roles, while the decision makers are men. This trend fuels situations of insecurity for women through extremely low wages, forced overtime, child labor, pregnancy discrimination, as well as physical and verbal abuse. So, gender inequality appears to be one of the least

addressed issues in the industry. Hence, fashion businesses must care about establishing standards that protect its women workers. Also, they need to ensure women can reach and sustain executive positions in fashion businesses.

Goal 6 (Clean water and sanitation): The fashion industry is a great consumer of water. It is estimated that around 80% of the wastewater resulting from textile activities is dumped into rivers and seas without ensuring it is contamination-free. Already, we have been experiencing degradation in maritime resources. Also, residents of the towns where factories are located are under the threat of drinking and bathing in contaminated water. Fashion brands must define concrete goals to improve their water management practices.

Goal 12 (Responsible Production and Consumption): Fashion brands and consumers must be aware of their responsibility for the consequences caused at an environmental and social level by their action. With fast fashion growing, we currently consume 400% more garments than 20 years ago. Interestingly, we end up using only half of them. Thus, we need seasonless apparel as trend setter. To mainstream this new trend, companies must extend their commitments beyond the sale and raise awareness within the community by communicating the benefit of seasonless apparel to their customers.

With its cross-cutting nature, the link between fashion industry and SDGs is not only limited to the goals discussed above. There are goals where fashion industry has a pertinent role to play. For instance, to reduce the emissions caused by the textile activities, companies can use renewable energies and improve the energy efficiency of its supply chains. This compliments Goal 13 (Climate action). Also, solutions related to the contamination of water through chemicals, and release of microplastics caused during the washing of garments are falling under Goal 14 (Life below water). Then again, issues around intensive use of the land to extract raw materials and the excessive consumption of natural resources have integral connection to Goal 15 (Life on land).

Becoming aware of the engagement of the fashion industry in achieving SDGs is a big step towards transforming the overall textile sector. Companies must use the SDGs as a roadmap to optimize their journey towards sustainability.

Sabbir Rahman Khan

The writer is a Knowledge Management, Communications and Advocacy Professional working for an international development organisation.

(The views expressed are personal of the author.)

Author

R|Elan™ – Strengthening network in Bangladesh

R|Elan™ Story

R|Elan™ - Fabric 2.0

Reliance Industries Limited’s (RIL) R|Elan™ - Fabric

2.0 is a portfolio of fabric innovations, offering a wide spectrum of benefits from sustainability to high performance and wellness. These smart fabrics have been created from specially engineered fibres and yarns using the cutting-edge technological expertise, state-of-the-art R&D and the robust testing systems at Reliance Industries Limited, India. These provide solutions to emerging consumer needs and is highly sought after by established brands, retailers and apparel manufacturers.

R|Elan™ provides brands with unique product capabilities that power different apparel segments like denim, knits, athleisure, formalwear etc.

R|Elan™ enables innovative garments that are in-sync with the latest fashion trends and fulfil the lifestyle needs of the consumers as well.

Establishing strong network in Bangladesh

Reliance has established partnerships with key players in Bangladesh in the past few years to produce new-age fabrics, using R|Elan™ speciality products. Under its Hub Excellence Program (HEP), Reliance is strengthening its network by providing assurance to brands/retailers of rapid product development, streamlined production, timely supply of raw materials and standard quality. The partner firms also receive technical and product

development assistance from RIL apart in the form of leads for business development and marketing support.

Thus, R|Elan™ is a complete solution provider, offering an extensive range of innovative fabrics, each with a special benefit, catering to evolving consumer needs and enhancing comfort.

Diverse product portfolio to meet emerging consumer needs

R|Elan™ has fabric technologies that act as solutions to various emerging consumer needs; the ecofriendly fabrics help apparel brands create special sustainable collections, thereby enabling the ‘green fashion’ movement across the industry. R|Elan™ has also infused new-age functionality in its innovative fabric range to meet the growing demand for high performance apparels.

The R|Elan™ product portfolio includes products grouped under different categories like:

• Sustainability

» GreenGold – recycled from 100% post-consumer used PET bottles,

» EcoGold – advanced sustainable technology that reduces persistence of textile waste in the environment,

» GreenGold Cotluk - Imparts desired Cotton look and feel to the fabric, made available from recycling 100% post-consumer used PET bottles

• Hi-Performance

» Kooltex - rapid moisture management functionality that keeps the garment cool and dry,

» AirTherm – thermal insulation functionality enables the garment to keep the wearer warm and comfortable,

» AllClima – inherent dual functionality enables all year comfort

• Wellness

» FeelFresh – antimicrobial fabric that reduces bacterial growth and inhibits bad odour Visit us at https://www.r-elan.com/ to know more about R|Elan™ and also visit https://relan-sourcing. virtulab.online/ to explore the world of innovative fabrics from R|Elan™. You can also email us at r.elan. innovations@ril.com

Asian market can be a game changer for Bangladesh RMG crisis

Jannatul Ferdous Nipa

Recently, Bangladesh RMG is experiencing a shortage of orders due to a higher inflation rate, especially in the traditional US and EU market. After the Covid crisis when the economy was about to be resilient, the Russo-Ukrainian conflict further complicated the situation. The easier and quicker solution could be exporting RMG to nontraditional Asian markets like India.

We all know that because of the global pandemic, approximately hundreds of factories in Bangladesh have been forced to shut down, mainly small factories because they failed to get orders, and sell garments and therefore had a huge stock load. Because of this, they had to close factories and send thousands of workers home, most of them from rural areas. About 20%-25% of the laborers had to return to their villages and therefore cut off supplies for their families for a significant period.

Meanwhile, due to the Russo-Ukrainian conflict that has escalated, the dollar has reached an all-time high and inflation is running higher all around the world. As a result, overall consumption has declined.

Bangladesh saw negative growth in September after 13 consecutive months of robust growth.

Bangladesh RMG industry has received last season's orders but not the next season's as the dollar exchange rate moved very quickly from Tk 80 to Tk 104.55. They are not getting orders because buyers always expect profit after ordering a certain amount of product. Now, since the dollar rate has hiked up, if buyers place orders using the same prices as last season, they will cease to make a legitimate profit.

The surging dollar is affecting the RMG industry in many more ways than just fumbling orders. For example, to run a factory, a generator is required and for a generator to work, diesel is required. Diesel prices have also hiked up abnormally.

Even after all these challenges, the Bangladesh RMG industry did not fail to stand its ground and moved through these extremes graciously. Bangladesh’s RMG industry has strived harder to convert to green energy and is now the world’s leading country in terms of the number of green factories it has. Nine out of the top 10 greenest factories are located in Bangladesh.

Even now, if the factories don’t get orders after working so hard to survive in these tough conditions, it’ll be disastrous. But, of course, when there’s a problem, there’s a solution. The temporary solution can be moving towards Asian markets, Bangladesh’s neighboring countries. The promising markets are Japan, India, Korea, the Middle East and Malaysia.

To Bangladesh as of now, the nearest and biggest market is the Indian market. The population of India is massive and if Bangladesh can tap into this market and sell products, a lot of its losses will be covered. Recently, Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi also expressed optimism that exports to India will reach US$4 billion in the next three years, adding that exports to India crossed 1 billion dollars in the last financial year

However, there are a few cons to working with the Indian market. Bangladesh imports most of the raw materials and man-made fibers from India but is reluctant to work with them as they have a history of being difficult to work with and tend to go back on their words.

Arranging expos in both countries can solve this problem. Recently, Textile Sourcing Meet’ 22 took place in Dhaka at Radisson Blue hotel on 17 September were 20-24 raw materials suppliers from India came and displayed their products. Hundreds of factory owners from Bangladesh got the chance to talk face-to-face to the suppliers and opened up many business opportunities for the future.

In continuation to this, another expo should be organized immediately in India where top garment makers and owners from Bangladesh can display their products in hopes of creating new bonds and trust with Indian buyers.

If this approach succeeds, both countries will be in a win-win situation. Bangladesh will buy raw materials from India and India will buy finishing items from Bangladesh. This could be a crucial solution to the problem we are currently facing.

Author:

Jannatul Ferdous Nipa Vice President (RMG) IICCI, Bangladesh

Deliver a Positive Impact on Climate and Nature

APR Story

APR’s approach to optimise efficiencies and reduce our environmental footprint is supported by our sister company APRIL’s efforts to reduce its emissions and implement biodiversity initiatives. Our APR2030 sustainability agenda outlines time bound science-based solutions to achieve our goals.

• Understanding our carbon footprint

As part of our APR2030 strategy, we have committed to having product carbon intensity reduction by 2030 based on a life cycle approach (LCA) using 2019 as our baseline. Ours is not just an APR gate-to-gate commitment but a cradle-to-gate approach incorporating upstream our value chain. Our operations have already adopted energy efficiency, importance of incorporation of renewable energy sources, reuse and recycling in our production processes and sustainable sourcing. Given the state-of-the-art practices, processes and technologies already embedded in our business, the challenge is identifying ways to reduce APR’s emissions against current baselines. We will undertake LCA studies periodically to track our progress.

• 100% renewable energy

Since commencing operations, we have strived to optimize our

energy processes and reduce our energy intensity, which was 6% lower in 2021 than in our first year of operation. APR has used 100% renewable energy to power VSF production since 2020. We purchase this energy from PT Riau Prima Energi (RPE), which operates multi-fuel and chemical recovery boilers that can supply more than 100% of our energy needs. We calculate our total energy needs using a mass balance approach based on the energy required to produce one tonne of VSF.

• Sustainable sourcing

To produce VSF, we source our raw material – dissolving wood pulp (DWP) – from five key suppliers: four direct suppliers and one trader. In 2021, we sourced a total of 233,456 tonnes of dissolving wood pulp to produce our viscose staple fibre, 93% of which was sourced locally from our sister company APRIL. The remaining 7% originated in Canada, the United States and Europe. Buying from sustainable sources is critical to upholding our sustainable viscose brand. In 2021, we exclusively sourced from Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC™) certified sources. All suppliers comply with our sustainability policy and Code

of Procurement Ethics (COPE) commitments and submit to risk assessments and due diligence against these requirements. If we identify non-compliance, we work with suppliers to address and rectify any issues through clear, time-bound corrective action plans to bring them into compliance.

• Support for biodiversity protection

While we do not operate in the vicinity of any protected areas, APR is committed to supporting our suppliers in restoring natural landscapes as part of our decade-long strategy. Through collaboration, we can reduce our carbon footprint and positively impact climate and nature.

Follow our Fibre

APR’s bespoke traceability platform, followourfibre.com, lets APR’s customers and ultimately consumers to trace fibre back to where it was grown. The full transparency of its supply chain is visible on the app on the company’s website. These initiatives are all part of APR’s commitment to becoming a leading and responsible viscose staple fibre producer and providing value to our customers. www.aprayon.com

Duster Ltd and aeoon Technologies have joined forces to bring DTG printing solutions to Bangladesh market

Staff Correspondent

The global direct-to-garment (DTG) printing market has been gaining traction against the increasing demand for ‘fast fashion products’. At the same time style and designer fashion preferences are gaining popularity globally due to its cost-effective, faster and cleaner screen-print methods.

By 2032, DTG printing market is projected to reach $1.82 billion and poise a lucrative growth by registering a CAGR of 8.3% over the forecasted period. Now DTG printing has become the go to choice in the global and Bangladesh’s printing industry.

DTG printing solution providers have pushed digitization in the garment printing industry to a new level – the timeworn and traditional printing methods are falling in the printing industry gradually – elevating the level of automation. One such contributor, aeoon Technologies has been contributing immensely in manufacturing the fastest and most efficient industrial digital printers in the world.

For more than a decade, Austria based aeoon Technologies has set it apart with its high-quality DTG printing equipment, unparalleled service and support system, ink cost saving, a long work-life and the prospect to integrate every machine into an automated workflow – making aeoon printers the perfect solution for DTG printing industry.

aeoon Technologies has been operating in Bangladesh for some time but couldn’t expedite

them to such level according to their brands name and features due to longer time to figure out a promising and trustworthy business partner here. In line with this, aeoon Technologies, recently, joined hands with Duster Limited Bangladesh to enhance their business operation here in the Bangladesh market. The partnership with the leading distributor Duster Limited with its remarkable and visionary service of excellence, cutting costs of conducting business by increasing

Bangladesh said to team Textile Today, “Since 2014, we are wide spread in most of the major and minor sectors. We are reckoned by providing exceptional excellent customer service. We are confident that our partnership with aeoon Technologies will make their printing solutions a force to reckon with.”

“Recently, we visited our existing customers like GMS Composite, Palmal Group & Dird Group to review the existing machines operation and make it fully functional to run those technologies with the optimum efficiency. Interestingly, we are getting queries for reorder from the existing customer base and very good response from the potential clients,” he said.

efficiency with automation in operation – aeoon Technologies got an excellent local partner.

Duster Limited has in-depth and versatile presence in the industry. This tie-up has already getting a positive response from the industry – as printing factories are demanding aeoon’s high-end printing machinery.

Md. Saidul Islam, Managing Director, Duster Limited,

“aeoon Technologies' cost efficient solutions will aid the RMG industry to become leaner and more profitable – along with top-notch solutions. DUSTER’s robust sales team, after sales support and IT team has guaranteed remarkable service excellence for our customers. We ensure a holistic after sales and service for all aeoon’s technology users.

With Duster’s remarkable combined team effort – we believe aeoon Technologies will be auto choice for all printers and the lion share of the country’s printing sector to be contributed by our technologies.

DUSTER’s robust sales team, after sales support and IT team has guaranteed remarkable service excellence for our customers."

“

Md. Saidul Islam MD, Duster Limited

Web: www.aeoon.com

06 Gulshan Avenue, Level-3, Block- SW (H), Gulshan-1, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh. Telephone: +88-02-48812148 E-mail: info@dusterbd.com Web: www.dusterbd.com

DTG printing market to reach $1.82 bn by 2032

Textile Today Report

The worldwide direct-to-garment (DTG) printing market is projected to reach $1.82 billion by 2032 –and poise a profitable growth by registering a CAGR of 8.3% over the forecast period, says a recent report published by Future Market Insights, Inc.

The direct-to-garment (DTG) printing market is gaining traction against the rising demand for ‘fast fashion products,’ as well as, fashion designs and stylish preferences, funky and colorful apparel globally. The DTG printing market is forecast to be valued at $0.82 billion in 2022.

In addition, as DTG printing pushed digitization to a new level – the timeworn and traditional printing methods are falling in the printing industry gradually – elevating the level of automation.

Technological progressions, such as 3D printing and hot melt printing for textile applications, are another motive for the faster fame of DTG printing market growth over the assessment period of 2032.

FMI analyst says, “The rising trend of customization amongst the young population is creating demand for new varieties of prints; for this purpose manufacturers employ DTG printers, thereby creating growth opportunities within the global DTG printing market.”

DTG printing allows users to print substrates that are difficult to print with other systems. It can easily print any image regardless of its difficulty. Another benefit of direct-to-garment printing is that the prints last longer.

Direct-to-garment printing generally uses inks which are pigmented water-based inks. Pre-treatment is a very important step to get a good quality print from direct to garment printer. This printing technique has made it easy to print on fabrics which was not possible in the traditional manner.

Why DTG

Textile printing manufacturers globally are tirelessly looking to enrich their operational profitability by improving print quality in order to attract more customers and decrease operational expenses. Therefore, by cutting the consumption of resources, manufacturers are able to reduce the operational costs and provide high-quality and sharpness on the prints, the direct-to-garment method provides a crucial advantage on both fronts.

The use of printed textiles has significantly increased

Figure: The worldwide direct-to-garment (DTG) printing market is projected to reach $1.82 billion by 2032 – and poise a profitable growth by registering a CAGR of 8.3% over the forecast period. Courtesy: brother

with time in car interior decor and vehicle wrapping, which is anticipated to contribute to the expansion of the market size. Similarly, the adoption of directto-garment printing is swelling in popularity in home décor and soft signage applications for various products such as bedsheets, pillow covers, wallpapers, and wood.

Since it offers an array of alternatives that permits printing on garments and can easily print any image regardless of its difficulty, the demand for direct-togarment printing is extremely high. Moreover, several other benefits such as non-solubility, colorfastness, resistance to damage, and sublimation inks are expected to bolster growth in the direct-to-garment printing market.

Due to its wide usage in the textile and the clothing and soft signage segments, direct to garment printing market is expected to create a lucrative outlook for textile and décor for the maximum share of direct to garment printing market due to the growing demand for textiles across the globe and the rising demand for polyester fabrics in the textile industry.

Competitive landscape

The surging demand for stable profitability and printed textiles is inviting new vendors into the market. In addition to that, the swelling demand for sustainable products is also predicted to work in favor of the market. Major players operating in the direct-togarment printing market are primarily focused on new product launches and establishing partnerships.

CCI and COTTON USA™ Bangladesh has Removing toxic chromium from wastewater by raw and chitosan-treated banana and areca ber

SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION

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SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION

Launched in 2020, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol was designed to set a new standard in more sustainably grown cotton, ensuring that it contributes to the protection and preservation of the planet, using the most sustainable and responsible techniques. It is the only system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement in six key sustainability metrics and article-level supply chain transparency.

The Trust Protocol provides brands and retailers the critical assurances they need to show the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk.

Trust in a smarter cotton future.

Learn more + become a member TrustUSCotton.org

World cotton day 2022

‘weaving a better future for cotton’

Rahbar Hossain

To highlight the importance of this global commodity in generating jobs and maintaining economic stability in less developed countries, the United Nations General Assembly declared October 7 as World Cotton Day in 2021.

Cotton represents so much more than just a commodity. This natural fiber is a life-changing product worldwide that sustains 32 million growers (mostly women) and benefits over 100 million families across 80 countries (North America, Europe, Asia-Pacific, South America, and Middle East & Africa).

On this second official UN World Cotton Day, the United Nations wants to raise visibility and celebrate the cotton sector and awareness of the critical role that it plays in economic development, international trade and poverty alleviation. At the same time with the goal to foster sustainable trade policies and aid developing countries benefit from the cotton value chain.

The observance also aims to highlight the importance of sustained, inclusive and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment and decent work for all.

All the stakeholders of this cotton industry should facilitate the

workers. Indeed, cotton is a major source of livelihoods and incomes for many rural peoples all over the world.

According to UN, a single ton of cotton provides year-round employment for 5 people on average, often in some of the most impoverished regions.

The initiative of World Cotton Day begun in 2019, when four cotton producers in sub-Saharan Africa– Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali, known as the Cotton Four – proposed the World Trade Organization a World Cotton Day celebration on October 7.

Facts about cotton

Cotton is grown from natural fibers of cotton plants, which are native to tropical and subtropical states.

The word cotton is emanated from the Arabic word ‘quton’. Nevertheless, the original production of the product was in India, which still remains the number one cotton producer in the world.

As one of the most renewable and biodegradable product – cotton is the most ecologically friendly raw material for the textile spinning industry as related to its synthetic options.

Cotton plants have a big rising period which can range up to 200 days. Growing cotton starts

Figure: The United Nations General Assembly declared October 7 as World Cotton Day in 2021.

between December and March.

These plants need a comparatively high temperature over a long growing season.

Unlike prevalent faith, cotton is not a thirsty crop as it is a xerophyte, which can breed in dry, arid environments.

Only 3 percent of the world's land is used for rising cotton. Yet, it meets 27 percent of the globe's textile demands.

Cotton benefits and uses

Besides the soft fabric, cottonseed is also used to produce oil. Which is used for cooking, making soap and cosmetics. Growers also use cottonseed meals and cake as fertilizer and animal feed.

Aside from garment, cotton can be used for creating homeware and industrial products. In addition, used in fishnets, coffee filters, tents, book binding and archival paper.

Short fibers known as linters are found on the cottonseed after ginning. These are used to create bandages, bank notes, swabs, cotton buds and x-rays. Most notably, cotton is natural and lax and comfortable for a wearer.

Cotton made fiber is skin-friendly as it has ventilative properties unlike human-made fabrics such as polyester or nylon.

On the Cover

CCI is a non-profit trade association that promotes U.S. cotton fiber and manufactured cotton products around the globe with COTTON USA trademark. CCI works with spinning mills, fabric and garment manufacturers, brands, retailers, textile associations, governments and the USDA to facilitate the use of U.S. cotton.

Tareq Amin Founder & CEO

Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development

Arif Saleh Tasin Rahbar Hossain Shohel Ahmed Business Development

Abdullah Nurunnahar Tania Research & Development

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Engagement & Communication

Yeasin Mia

Design

cotton day 2022 ‘weaving a better future for cotton’

Industry Best Practices

Mosharaf Composite showcases recycled yarn for sustainable garments

Jute Today

Jute textiles production decreases significantly

Cotton

Diversification in spinning has a big scope in Bangladesh

Nigerian textile industry to be revived with Bt cotton

Cotton

US currency notes are made of cotton and linen

Hossain

Executive, Web

Ashraful Alam

Khan Ucchas

CCI and COTTON USA™ mark ‘Cotton Day 2022’ to speed up positive cotton aspects

Optimizing Draw Frame Performance

Face 2 Face

Bangladesh has potential to be a winning market in the future

Field Tests Confirm High Performance of New Accotex Aprons

Views

4 Important questions to ask when sourcing fabric

News & Analysis

BTMA concerns over banks avoid LC opening

124-125 Event Today

Rahman

The right spindle to make the difference

Murata Vortex Seminar 2022 showcases its groundbreaking sustainable spinning system for the apparel makers

Diversification in spinning has a big scope in Bangladesh

Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh textile spinning sector has been playing a critical role in upholding the country’s readymade garment (RMG) exports. The spinners and textile sectors have been investing heavily in capacity expansion and high-end product making.

One of the leading textile conglomerates of Bangladesh – Amanat Shah Group has been pioneering in new innovation, high-end products and sustainable products in textiles.

Amanat Shah Group envisioned by Mohammad Helal Miah – is an upshot of a committed familyowned initiative by upholding product quality and diversity.

Rezaul Karim is the Director of Amanat Shah Group and one of the young leaders of the Amanat Shah family. He has been carrying the wisdom of the family business from his father, a legend in the textile business. Now Rezaul Karim is passionately focusing on their traditional family business to lead it to the next level.

Amanat Shah Group reached the pinnacle of the Bangladesh’s textile industry by growing capacity in manufacturing all kinds of fabrics and finished garments.

Rezaul Karim said, “In terms of investment we are following a path of gradual process. We work in a balanced way. Right at this moment we are having

an investment in the spinning sector. We are mostly focusing on blended yarn. Diversification in spinning has a big scope in Bangladesh as maximum blended or high-end yarn is imported from China. That is why we are focusing on this segment.”

“We have already started the project work and hopefully by the end of this year or as early as the beginning of 2023 will be able to go into production. Amanat Shah is also expanding in dying house and woven factory segment.”

Amanat Shah Group visited in just concluded 21st Textech Bangladesh International Expo.

Rezaul Karim expressed how Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufactures get a chance to be in touch with the new innovations and developments by exploring expos like 21st Textech Bangladesh International Expo.

Rezaul Karim said, “21st Textech Bangladesh International Expo looked quite resourceful to me. As it will give the manufactures a chance to be in touch with the new innovations and developments of dyes and chemical industry, fabric and yarn. Bangladesh textile and RMG is emerging and growing. We are

In terms of investment we are following a path of gradual process. We work in a balanced way. Right at this moment we are having an investment in the spinning sector. We are mostly focusing on blended yarn. Diversification in spinning has a big scope in Bangladesh as maximum blended or high-end yarn is imported from China.

creating a lot of new markets and product diversification. That is why we have to be up to date with the whole eco-system.”

“I personally appreciate such type of expo – as we get all the developments and innovations together. My thanks to Textile Today as they always highlight branding Bangladesh and made in Bangladesh.

Rezaul Karim Director of Amanat Shah Group

Rezaul Karim, Director of Amanat Shah Group

CCI and COTTON USA™ mark ‘Cotton Day 2022’ to speed up positive cotton aspects

Staff Correspondent

Cotton Council International (CCI) – the export promotion arm of the National Cotton Council of America and COTTON USA™ – the leading U.S. cotton fiber promoter and manufacturer of cotton products – celebrated the seventh edition of Cotton Day on 21 September at a hotel in Dhaka. The seminar highlighted the activities of Cotton USA and US Trust Protocol activities, as well as, the global cotton production, supply and its demand scenario.

The seminar was graced by COTTON USA™ Licensees and US Trust Protocol Members and over 150 prominent leaders of the spinning and textile industry, executives, garment manufacturers, and international brands and retailers were present.

In the grand ‘Cotton Day 2022’ seminar, CCI global experts

presented papers on several topics including Global Cotton Economic Outlook, USA Cotton Supply and Demand and US Logistics, as well as, case studies of established profits of Cotton USA, assisted by COTTON USA™ Solutions program.

In the introduction remarks, Ali Arsalan, Cotton Council International (CCI) Consultants and Representative in Bangladesh expressed his acknowledged to the COTTON USA™ Licensees and US Trust Protocol Members i.e. 81 member mills in Bangladesh, who participated in the Cotton Day 2022 seminar. He remind them that Cotton USA Solutions Team is available to visit factory free of charge, for any issues at their mills like from Bale Management to Processing.

William R. Bettendorf, Regional Director, Supply Chain Marketing,

South & Southeast Asia, Cotton Council International (CCI) said, “US Trust Protocol has gained a global acceptance as the most sustainable, robust, detailed and traceable program. Be it NGO’s, the UN, and other leading cotton sustainable initiatives have regard US Trust Protocol as the most unique program. As a result, globally US Trust Protocol has 900 member mills.”

“We are thankful for the backing of the Bangladeshi spinners who have embraced the US Cotton Trust Protocol. As Ali Arsalan mentioned that here in Bangladesh, 81 mills member of the US Trust Protocol. Which is great. And I want to thank all the members. I will urge the members to publicly proclaim this membership to your advantage with the brands and retailers,” Bettendorf said.

Figure 1: CCI – the export promotion arm of the National Cotton Council of America and COTTON USA™ –celebrated the seventh edition of Cotton Day.

Cotton

“

US Trust Protocol has gained a global acceptance as the most sustainable, robust, detailed and traceable program. Be it NGO’s, the UN, and other leading cotton sustainable initiatives have regard US Trust Protocol as the most unique program. As a result, globally US Trust Protocol has 900 member mills.”

William R. Bettendorf Regional Director, CCI

“At the end of the day, by using Cotton USA® it increases spinning mills profitability improved productivity, and the latest techniques. We are your partners in aiding you to get higher profit. Our team of Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™ Services experts has created five business-building key offerings, these are – 1:1 Mill Consults, Technical Seminars, COTTON USA Mill Mastery® Course, Mill Studies, Mill Exchange Program. COTTON USA™ SOLUTIONS™ Services experts provides unrivaled know-how informed by work with over 1,500 mills in 50 countries. Our programs are complimentary for U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol® members or COTTON USA™ licensees. Available in person or virtually. And will aid you shape your business like never before,” said Bettendorf. “Most importantly, you can depend on us for innovations in sustainability and rigorous fair labor practices,” Bettendorf added. “Against the growing global call of sustainable cotton – brands and retailers said that they will need 5 million bales of sustainable cotton by 2025. And the good news is that US cotton will be able to fulfil that demand. We recommend them to use US cotton as it is the most sustainable grown cotton available in the market. In addition, US buyers constantly focus on

sustainability and will source more in the future. As U.S. cotton is fully sustainable, the call for U.S. cotton will grow more in the Bangladesh market,” Bettendorf concluded.

In his speech, Helen LaFave, US Deputy Chief of Mission said, “The $90 million grant for Climate Smart Cotton to the US Cotton Trust Protocol demonstrates the USA’s commitment to sustainable cotton production.”

Joerg Bauersachs, Head of CCI Technical Services said, “CCI Technical Services team – comprised of some global experts who visited more than 200 spinning mills from all over the world – is available to visit COTTON USA™ Licensees and

US Trust Protocol Members factories for any issues at their mills – from Bale management, shade variations, dyeing issues to Processing, etc. These services are free of charge for the member mills.”

“We confidently proclaim ourselves are the leading technical cotton spinning consultancy in the world. Our technical consultancy team is consisted of the best spinning experts from around the globe – who have best indepth knowledge in the spinning industry,” said Bauersachs.

“As Will. Bettendorf said – under the Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™ Services – we offer five businessbuilding key offerings for the millers; unlike any other cotton provider in the world. What we provide for our members in 1:1 Mill Consults is we determine innovative techniques that can cut operational costs by 10% to 25% with this top-notch consultancy program.

Joerg Bauersachs added, “In 1:1 Mill Consult – we bring one of our Mill Experts right to our customers spinning mill. Our experts will do a one-day, in-depth mill examination followed by a Field Service that can last one or two full weeks.

The millers will receive preliminary findings, respectively identified areas of possible improvements

Cotton Council International (CCI) Consultants and Representative in Bangladesh expressed his acknowledged to the COTTON USA™ Licensees and US Trust Protocol Members i.e. 81 member mills in Bangladesh, who participated in the Cotton Day 2022 seminar.

Ali Arsalan

CCI Consultants and Representative in Bangladesh

after the one-day Technical Mill Survey, and solutions at the end of the Field Service.”

“Millers can also do our Mill Mastery® Course. Our in-depth Mill Mastery® course is designed to take millers spinning skills to the next level. It is managed by the COTTON USA SOLUTIONS™ Technical Team, with a collective experience of over 200 years.”

“For spinners, the main areas of innovation are: fiber selection and Bale management – we always suggest millers to use software based solutions. Recommendations on Bale laydown practice – we advise spinners regarding various techniques for improvements. Settings of cleaning points and Yield Improvement. Yield Improvement is the most important aspect in relation to mills success.”

“As for waste management – Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™ Services provide Yield and NRE% Optimization. Recommendations on Card Clothing Specification/ maintenance. And fine-tuning on settings with focus on yarn quality.”

“Customers privacy is always our top priority. We never disclose that ‘mill X, Y or Z’ is this or that setting to get the best result. Rather without naming anyone we

“

CCI Technical Services team –comprised of some global experts who visited more than 200 spinning mills from all over the world – is available to visit COTTON USA™ Licensees and US Trust Protocol Members factories for any issues at their mills – from Bale management, shade variations, dyeing issues to Processing, etc. These services are free of charge for the member mills.”

Joerg Bauersachs Head of CCI Technical Services

suggest the best possible setting for best result,” Bauersachs said.

“Most notably, in close collaboration with the technical teams of our customers, the Cotton USA® SOLUTIONS™ Team has achieved many success stories over the past years. Which resulted in: cost savings, productivity increase, and optimization of the yarn quality,” Bauersachs concluded.

In the seminar, Steve Dyer, Global Head of Cotton Marketing at Louis Dreyfus addressed on the global cotton production, supply and key global factors affecting demand. He shared the global scenario of cotton production, supply and possible demand in the upcoming fiscal years from his experience.

Dyer also highlighted the additional challenges in the cotton supply chain like: driver shortage, seasonal challenges, vaccine related concerns, delayed vessel services, and other issues persisting in the cotton industry.

“Despite all the global challenges and volatility of the market, people still are spending in the major markets like the USA, EU, UK. Showing that in reality, situation is not that bad.”

“We have really had a remarkable recovery in cotton consumption from the lows with US retail sales bounce back to the level of strong sales. So, the global cotton kind of jump started the 2022. And the cotton demand concerns really starting to come through. And I think the reason for this is that the consumers in the US are moving on with life. Although the inflation is there, but the people haven't really touched by it. And this is driving the US economy and ultimately the cotton demand.”

We have really had a remarkable recovery in cotton consumption from the lows with US retail sales bounce back to the level of strong sales. So, the global cotton kind of jump started the 2022. And the cotton demand concerns really starting to come through. And I think the reason for this is that the consumers in the US are moving on with life. Although the inflation is there, but the people haven't really touched by it. And this is driving the US economy and ultimately the cotton demand.”

Global Head of Cotton Marketing at Louis Dreyfus addressed on the global cotton production

CCI started celebrating Cotton Day in 2016 to highlight the positive aspects of cotton as the favored fiber for consumers and the textile industry.

Optimizing draw frame performance

Rieter Story

Draw frames play a key role in every spinning mill in determining the quality of the yarn. To keep the quality of yarn and sliver consistently high and achieve high machine productivity, maintenance of the draw frame is of utmost importance.

Mill managers today face increasing production requirements and a shortage of manpower at the same time. Machines must run constantly at maximum efficiency and availability, while requiring as little maintenance as possible.

Figure 1: Regular maintenance of the draw frame is crucial to achieve high productivity and excellent sliver quality.

Nevertheless, maintenance is still an important part of daily business. Each unexpected equipment failure can:

• Interrupt the production schedule

• Lead to costly downtime

• Increase the amount of waste

• Reduce the sliver and yarn quality

• Reduce the lifetime of components or the machine. For example, a short length of faulty sliver delivered by the draw frame is enough to result in several meters of inadequate or low-quality yarn. Dirty or dusty guide rollers and guiding tubes can cause inconsistencies in the sliver thickness. Missing lubrication of the drive elements can reduce component lifetime because of drive slippage.

Benefits resulting from regular maintenance

All of that can be prevented by regular maintenance. To support customers in their daily challenges, Rieter

provides a comprehensive portfolio of spare parts and services including parts packages to improve the performance at all stages of the machine lifetime. Furthermore, maintenance booklets are available summarizing and illustrating necessary maintenance procedures. They include recommendations for cleaning and lubrication of critical areas of the draw frame (Fig. 1) and provide tables with suggested parts exchange intervals.

While the maintenance booklet helps perform regular maintenance, ordering and stocking parts is made easy by ESSENTIALorder. This online platform includes a customer specific spare parts catalog and assists spinning mills in on-time ordering of parts as well as optimizing the amount of stock. The system is available 24 hours a day, enabling customers to submit orders from anywhere at any time.

As a result, downtimes can be prevented and the draw frames keep running at maximum efficiency. It will be possible to achieve higher productivity, excellent sliver quality and increase the lifetime of the machines. Rieter service specialists support customers in maintaining their draw frames to reach their targets (Fig. 2).

Figure 2: Rieter service offering including ESSENTIALorder enable optimum maintenance.

British multinational company Coats – with its more than 250 years of heritage in the industrial thread business – is constantly evaluating new and innovative value-adding products, services and software solutions to the apparel and footwear industries.

Rajiv Sharma has been serving as Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Coats Group plc since 2017. Rajiv Sharma has more than 30 years of experience in leading complex global businesses in multiple industries.

Recently in an interview with Textile Today, Rajiv Sharma opened up regarding various aspects of Coats philosophy, market strategy and other critical facets.

Bangladesh has potential to be a winning market in the future

Textile Today: Coats is known to have a heritage of over 250 years as a company. Can you provide some key figures around Coats’ presence in Bangladesh and does Coats have new strategic projects planned for this region?

Rajiv Sharma: Coats has unrivalled global footprint – in some 50 countries with a workforce of over 17,000 people across six continents – allowing us to meet our customers' sourcing needs consistently and quickly across multiple locations. We have been pioneers, creating value adding products and solutions that meet our customers’ changing needs.

Bangladesh is one of the most vital

markets for the global textile and apparel industry, growing to be the second largest apparel exporting country in the world. Coats has been in Bangladesh since 1990 –we have 32 years of operational experience in the country. Our two factories – one in Chattogram and the other one in Gazipur –have been built with a state-ofthe-art machines, systems and processes. And threads produced in Bangladesh go into garments that are sold all over the world. We invest ahead of demand in Bangladesh. This means our existing capacity can cater next 3-5 years of demand. If required, Coats factories in Bangladesh have

space to add more machines.

Textile Today: The textile industry is ever changing. What do you foresee for 2023 in terms of trends and challenges?

Rajiv Sharma: Some parts of the textile industry are facing challenges. 2023 will be defined by two major factors. One is macroeconomics, and the other is geo-politics. These two factors will go a long way to determine consumer sentiment and demand.

In terms of fashion trends, we are seeing more and more homecentric lifestyle clothing that’s fuelling demand for comfort and athleisure garments and footwear. Outdoor, athleisure and casual

BTT Interview

Rajiv Sharma, CEO, Coats Group plc

clothing will continue to win in the near term. Formal clothing has been declining since covid hit the world in March 2020. Sourcing destinations that cater to these winning categories will see more growth.

Digitalisation (from software powered product development to metaverse experiences) is continuing to gain momentum. Technology emerged as one of the key drivers reshaping the fashion world. Young consumers are demanding fashion companies to be purpose-driven, to support social initiatives and reduce their environmental footprint so sustainability therefore has become a ‘must-have’ for companies.

Textile Today: Where do you see Bangladesh in the nearshoring preference and China dependency reduction strategy of global brands? Major export destinations of Bangladesh are going through difficult times.

Rajiv Sharma: Bangladesh is a very competitive apparel sourcing market but must move up the value chain by offering services that include garment designing, inventory management, sustainability and innovation for the major brands. It also should continue to invest in end-to-end garment supply chain by having more fabric mills in-country. The current challenges for Bangladesh are short-term.

Bangladesh is strategically located between India and China with a combined population of 2.7 billion people. Over time, it will be better for Bangladesh to also start catering to the Asian consumer. While profits from Asian consumers are not as high as the Western consumers, it will provide the necessary balance to reduce volatility of demand.

Some global brands are reducing their dependence on China. Bangladesh is going to be one of the winners. Some business has already been shifted and more will come. I think the Bangladesh

apparel industry needs to be ready more business and a different kind of garments in the future. For this it needs to focus on quality, sustainability, connectivity, ports, custom clearance, and other service efficiencies. These are paramount to attract more orders and increase the apparel export from $43 billion to $80 billion.

Textile Today: Coats is strengthening its presence in the footwear industry with its latest acquisitions of Texon and Rhenoflex. Is this a new priority for the business?

Rajiv Sharma: These acquisitions increase Coats’ presence in the highly attractive and fast-growing athleisure footwear market. Coats has had a very strong presence in the footwear thread market for many years. The two new acquisitions will allow us to move into adjacencies with structural components. These structural components allow us to be more innovative and sustainable. The combined footwear business will better meet customer needs and expectations in a fast-changing world.

In the last few years and especially since the pandemic, we have seen the footwear market grow faster than the apparel. This allows Coats to grow in a growing footwear market and be more value adding for our customers.

Textile Today: How is Coats contributing to accelerate sustainability? What could help drive the industry forward?

Rajiv Sharma: The good thing about Coats is that sustainability has been in our DNA for the last 250 years. This is a key reason for Coats to be a market leader for so long.

In 2018, Coats set a series of goals that have become the foundation of our approach to sustainability. We focused on ambitious targets set under five priority areas: water, energy, effluent & emissions, social and materials.

Some examples of our commitments include Coats reducing water intensity by 40% since 2018. We have 30% of our global energy coming from renewable sources and 83% of our employees work in sites that are certified as “Great Place to Work”.

By 2030, all products will be made completely independently of new oilextraction materials such as polyester and nylon – which is a massive transition. Another commitment of Coats is that by 2030, 70% of our global energy consumption will come from renewables.

We also made the commitment to becoming fully Net Zero by 2050. We have developed a roadmap to get there and will log our progress against a series of milestones and open source our work to help other companies who face similar challenges.

The textile industry needs to come together and collaborate more on Sustainability. We cannot meet our long terms goals without the active support of our customers and suppliers.

Figure: Amzad Hossain Monir (Left), Head of Business Development, Textile Today; Mohammad Al Kashem (Right), Managing Director, Coats Bangladesh Ltd with Rajiv Sharma in the frame.

Top

Textile Today: Among emerging sustainability trends, we see nature positivity. How is Coats getting involved in this movement?

Rajiv Sharma: Cutting the use of new oil-extraction-based products is one of the most effective ways we can reduce our carbon footprint and a current focus of our efforts to become more nature-positive. We have already successfully launched a series of eco-friendly products, with great reception from our leading global customers. We launched EcoVerde, our first 100% recycled polyester thread, in December 2018, and it currently accounts for almost 10% of our sales.

But we want to go much further, partly by transitioning more of our recycled materials and partly by innovating new solutions, such as

bio-materials that can substitute for the materials we currently use. EcoRegen, for example is a 100% lyocell thread that more closely matches the material of the garments and allows them to be recycled without needing to remove the stitching. On the other hand, EcoCycle is one of the first water dissolvable threads of its kind, designed to dissolve when washed at high temperatures.

Textile Today: Single-use consumer packaging is also an important topic. Does Coats have any initiatives to solve this problem?

Rajiv Sharma: Packaging is an issue throughout the textile supply chain. We currently use almost 8 million kg of plastic a year for thread supports – the cones at the centre of rolls of thread – and

that’s just one kind of packaging. Although we are not a consumerfacing company, we also have to address the amount of waste we create as a result of packaging.

We are going to do so with three initiatives that we will be implementing in all of our manufacturing sites around the world. The first is to make as much of our packaging from recycled materials. The second initiative is to eliminate packaging altogether where possible, including most of the plastic bags and film we currently use. The third initiative is to work with our customers to implement a circular programme, in which we reuse what we can’t eliminate – in particular, all cardboard boxes and thread/yarn supports. This reuse program has the potential to reduce the volume of new cones we buy by 60%.

Tasniah Fabrics Ltd. receives Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold

Arif Uz-Zaman

Tasniah Fabrics Ltd., A Sister Concern of Masco Group has been certified as “C2C (Cradle to Cradle) Gold”. Now it can manufacture C2C (Cradle to Cradle Gold) products for any Customer. Cradle to Cradle Certified® is the world’s most advanced science-based, multi-attribute certification program for designing, making and verifying materials and products that are safe, circular and responsibly made.

This certificate covers 100% Cotton, 99% Cotton & 1% Roica, 98% & Cotton 2% Roica, 99% Cotton & 1% Lycra, 98% Cotton 2% Lycra, Hemp Denim and Linen Denim products and which are available in Indigo, Black Bottoming, Black and Grey color.

Cradle to Cradle Certified products are certified based on their performance across five key areas of sustainability: material health, product circularity, clean air and climate protection, water and soil stewardship, and social justice. Apparel for Future by Tasnia including Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s knit garments with Cotton, Cotton & Elastane, Cotton with Viscose blend fake mallenge using various weight, fabric constructions and finishes has achieved Platinum in the material health category and Gold in material re-utilization, renewable energy & carbon management, water stewardship and social fairness.

To certify an ingredient or product under the Cradle to Cradle Certified® Product Standard, or to obtain an ingredient health certificate, companies must work with a qualified independent assessment organization to ensure that an ingredient or product meets the requirements of the standard.

A growing number of global brands, organizations and standards recognize C2C as a preferred product standard for responsible purchasing. For more than a decade, Cradle to Cradle Certified® has been helping companies to innovate and optimize materials and products that care about environmental and social impacts.

Figure: Tasniah Fabrics Ltd., A Sister Concern of Masco Group has been Certified as “C2C (Cradle to Cradle) Gold”.

1 million spindles

Autocoro

.Three generations have paved the way for 10 years of success: Autocoro 8, Autocoro

Autocoro

Autocoro is tailored to meet the requirements of the circular economy. It is perfectly suited for spinning yarn from recycled and regenerated fibres.

The right spindle to make the difference

Novibra Story

Spindles are at the core of spinning machines and play a crucial role in their performance. With an impact on productivity, quality, energy saving or work environment, selecting the right spindle for an application is key.

Thanks to Novibra’s wide range of spindles, finding the perfect spindle is child’s play.

from conical types to spindles with a flat tip. Its unrivalled spindle insert constitutes a base for all Novibra spindles of younger generations. HPS 68 is the right spindle to spin standard shortstaple fibers to medium and fine yarn counts.

Although higher speeds are possible, the spindle outperforms at speeds up to 20 000 rpm with favorable noise levels and long lifetime.

The right choice for coarse yarn counts – L HPS 68

When spinning coarse yarn counts, L HPS 68 is the right spindle. Its unique wharve diameter of 18.5 mm ensures optimized energy

yarn count and twist.

High speed and energy savings – LENA

The latest addition to the Novibra spindle family was especially designed to achieve high speeds with lowest energy consumption and reduced noise.

LENA is the right spindle to spin yarn counts of Ne 30 and finer, with tube lengths up to 210 mm at speeds up to 30 000 rpm. Thanks to the uniquely small wharve diameter of 17.5 mm, 4 to 6% energy savings can be achieved.

As creating a more sustainable future for the textile industry is getting more and more urgent, LENA is an attractive choice.

As the leader in spindle technology, Novibra offers a great selection of innovative and highperformance spindles (Fig. 1).

First-ever spindle to run at 30 000 rpm – NASA HPS 68

Famous for extending service periods, reducing noise level and ensuring maximum durability, Novibra’s flagship and best-seller NASA HPS 68 (Fig. 2), already convinced premium machine manufacturers such as Rieter, Toyota or top-class Chinese producers.

Installations in the optimum range for NASA HPS 68 – at medium to fine yarn counts and 20 000 to 30 000 rpm speed – represent a completely different type of load on the spindle than coarse yarn count applications. Smaller repeated loads at high frequency occur causing micro vibrations. Therefore, a chamber filled with lifetime grease was introduced as a second damping system. Noise is thus significantly reduced, making the spinning mill a better place to work.

Reliable solution for medium and fine yarn counts – HPS 68

Novibra’s second best-selling spindle, HPS 68, has been a technical revolution in the switch

consumption and load on the machine driving elements. In most applications, a full cop and high tension of the yarn put a heavy load on the spindle neck bearing – which is increased by further imbalances occurring in the spinning process of coarse yarns.

The special design elements of the L HPS 68 spindle absorb heavy loads and ensure the desired harder damping.

The spindle mostly runs with tube lengths from 220 to 250 mm, but it can also be operated with tube lengths of 280 mm, e.g. by wool spinners. While speed increases up to 20000 rpm are an option, the speed is limited by the desired

The right crown for every spindle

Based on the machine type, doffing system and raw material or yarn count, with only one goal in mind: boosting customer’s competitiveness, Novibra offers countless designs from replaceable EASYdoff to sturdy steel crowns and from SERVOgrip (Fig. 3) to self-cleaning CROCOdoff.

Novibra also provides customized spindles without catching crowns for machines without automatic doffers.

However, the only optimally selected spindles give the best results. Yarn count, speed, lifetime, maintenance, or energy consumption requirements must be considered in the selection process. Novibra sales teams assist customers in choosing the right spindle to achieve the optimum performance.

Figure 1: The wide range of Novibra spindles covers any requirement.

Figure 2: NASA HPS 68 on production line – the first spindle running at 30 000 rpm.

Figure 1: The wide range of Novibra spindles covers any requirement.

Best Practices

Mosharaf Composite showcases recycled yarn for sustainable garments

Staff Correspondent

Mosharaf Composite Textile Mills Ltd. – a concern of Mosharaf Group – showcases its recycled yarn ‘Filotex’ for sustainable garments in the two-day – 17 and 18 September – Textile Sourcing Meet 2022 at a hotel in Dhaka.

Mosharaf Composite Textile Mills Ltd. is one of the largest enterprises of Mosharaf Group is the most modern highly-equipped spinning mill in Bangladesh. The spinning mil has a capacity of 110 MT Ring yarn per day, 30 MT recycled yarn per day (color fiber 10 MT, grey color 8 MT and grey blended 12 MT) and vortex yarn 20 MT per day with the range count of Ne3/1 – 40/1 Count.

A dedicated team of experts collects knit fabric cutting waste according to the customer’s color requirement to sort and check for quality. The sorted waste is then shredded into shortened fiber in its recycling machine. In order to achieve high quality yarn, the cotton fibers are mixed with other fivers, such as (recycled) polyester yarn, virgin cotton, TencelTM, EcoVeroTM, Viscose or acrylic depending on the desired outcome. Simultaneously, different colored fibers are mixed together to attain the desired shade through a mechanical process.

Its recycled Filotex yarn is playing a revolutionary role in solving the solid waste problem in Bangladesh textile and apparel industry. The company is producing luxurious recycled products to be used for home furnishing and upholstery since 2014 using sophisticated recycling technology from valuable

It is the first factory in Bangladesh working with ‘Circular Fashion’ and 3R (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle) concept introduced by the global brands. They think out of the box to expel the concept of solid waste and need of virgin raw materials.

‘cutting waste’ of garments industry.

It is the first factory in Bangladesh working with ‘Circular Fashion’ and 3R (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle) concept introduced by the global brands. They think out of the box to expel the concept of solid waste and need of virgin raw materials.

There is a huge demand for eco- friendly products in many developed countries. And what

Filotex producing is absolutely eco-friendly. The recycled products price is a bit more than regular same type product where the quality is the same or better. There is a huge possibility of these recycled products both in the national and international market.

Textile Sourcing Meet’ 22 is a grand curated Networking cum Sourcing Show co-hosted by SOWTEX (B2B marketplace for fashion & textile, digitizing Sourcing of Materials, Stocks & Vendors connecting users to different regions across Borders) in Joint Association with Fashion Export Fraternity led by Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh Garment Executives Association (BGEA) and Indian Importers Chambers of Commerce and Industry (IICCI).

Figure: Abir, Director, Mosharaf Group (Left); Md Shah Jamal, Executive Director (Yarn Marketing), Mosharaf Composite Textile Mills Ltd. (2nd from Right) at the event.

Jute textiles production decreases significantly

Arif Uz-Zaman

In the last two years the production of jute cloth has decreased significantly. Jute textile millers cited several reasons including decline in exports and government's failure to strictly impose mandatory packaging laws. If this continues, several jute textile millers in the country will either be forced to close their factories or operate at reduced capacity, they said.

Data from the Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics shows that the overall production of jute textiles in the 2021-22 fiscal year was 2.43 lakh tons, which is about 28 percent lower than the previous year's 3.39 lakh tons. The production in the 2020-21 financial year was also 12 percent lower than the fiscal year 201920 of 3.85 tons.

Exports of jute products also declined last year. The Export Promotion Bureau data shows that in the fiscal year 2021-22, total exports of jute yarn and twine declined by 13 percent while jute sacks and bags declined by 14 percent.

According to industry leaders, the government is yet to make rules to make the use of jute sacks mandatory for packing products even though the relevant law was enacted a decade ago.

The government enacted the Packaging Act in 2010 to promote the use of eco-friendly jute products instead of polythene or polypropylene bags. The law would have helped if the mandatory packaging act came into effect, they believe.

Meanwhile, due to uncontrolled stockpiling by middlemen, the price of raw jute has been volatile

Jute textile production in lakh tons

in the last two years, leading to an increase in the price of jute products in foreign markets. Therefore, international buyers are now leaning towards cotton products considering the high price of locally-made jute textiles.

Moreover, a 2 percent source tax is imposed on millers, which works against their competitiveness in the global market by raising costs.

The anti-dumping duties imposed by India are also hampering the country's exports. According to the Ministry of Commerce, on January 5, 2017, India imposed anti-dumping duties on imports of jute products from Bangladesh ranging from $19 to $352 per ton through a tariff notification.

Khondaker Golam Moazzem, research director of the Centre for Policy Dialogue urged the government to promote the golden fibre by implementing supportive policies as the industry was facing hurdles on both domestic and international levels.

Nigerian textile industry to be revived with Bt cotton

NA Tania

Recently, big players in Nigeria’s agricultural biotechnology sector urged farmers to grow Bt cotton to give the country’s textile industry a shot in the arm.

As Bt cotton was already commercialized in 2018 in the nation, so the federal government has stated that increased adoption of the cotton plant variety will go on to create many employment opportunities in the nation.

Bt cotton is genetically modified using bacillus thuringiensis, a biological pesticide, making the plant cotton variety resistant to cotton bollworm complex,

also offers several advantages including a higher yield of cotton and reduced use of chemical pesticides.

According to Abdullahi Mustapha, Director-General of the National Agricultural Biotechnology Development Agency (NABDA), “Statistics indicate its peak, between 1970 and 1990, it comprised about 130 modern factories and supported numerous other ancillary firms, providing about 350,000 direct jobs and 1.2 million indirect jobs among farmers, suppliers, transporters, dealers, traders, and exporters.”

Besides that, about 33 factories

remain standing, and the local cotton industry is comatose, primarily due to a lack of good seeds, low yields, and high production costs associated with insect damage.

In terms of farmers and stakeholders, the workshop is designed with new trends in the cotton industry, and there is a need to collect the experiences of farmers who already adopted the Bt cotton, so as to know how to help them achieve better results in the production of cotton, said Open Forum on Agricultural Biotechnology (OFAB) country coordinator Dr. Rose Gidado.

US currency notes are made of cotton and linen

Shafiun Nahar Elma

The United States plays an essential role in the worldwide cotton market, acting as a central producer and exporter of cotton fiber. The United States ranks 3rd in total cotton production and export, behind China and India.

of the mallow genus. Oddly much of the cotton used for currency comes from the Carolinas, where used denim clothing or waste in denim clothing production, is washed, bleached, and bagged. Cotton can be harvested in other states, but denim is an excellent source”.

Generally, the paper dollar bill would mess up too quickly, and wouldn’t survive through a wash but the rag fibers dollar bill does not impair when wet. The ‘rag fibers’ is the main component that is used to make a dollar bill. The rag fiber combination is made of cotton, linen, and versatile synthetic fibers. U.S. currency can be folded approximately 4,100 times before it will tear, meaning that, the circulation time for bills is 4-10 years. Currently, almost $2.2 trillion is in circulation across the US.

There is an interesting fact about U.S. currency. Currency notes are usually made of paper or wood pulp but the U.S. dollar note is not made of paper at all, but of a different element that will come as an astonishment.

According to the U.S. Department of the Treasury, the currency USD is made out of 75% cotton and 25% linen. In the United States, the USD note is the first turn ups in the 17th century, and the first “dollar bills” were printed about 70 years later from now.

Crane and Company, has supplied the U.S. Treasury with paper currency since 1879. According to their company website, U.S. currency is made with the most durable banknote paper in the world. Currency paper has teeny red and blue synthetic fibers of diverse lengths evenly distributed. Red and blue silk fibers were incorporated into the cotton-linen mix as security. The ink used on paper money is singularly formulated to endure fading over time. Recently, in many one-dollar bills, linen is fast being replaced by synthetic fibers. The formation is now about 80% cotton and 20% synthetic fibers.

In USD bills cotton and especially linen increase durability, flexibility, and distinctive look and feel. This feeling cannot be replicated by wood fiber paper. Bob Leuver, former Director of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing said, “Cotton comes from a softy fibrous plant or the covering of seeds

Chris Ford, PCCA’s Domestic Sales Manager said, PCCA has been supplying cotton to make the currency of the United States since 2007. He added that “There are not enough motes in the U.S. so they started buying graded cotton from Turkey. We went through several tests for six or 8 months before they figured out how to make it work and the pricing. Then we started supplying them with the cotton.”

In Europe, for instance, so-called comber noils are used for making their currency note. These are concise cotton fibers that are a waste flux from the textile industry.

The accurate ratio of cotton, linen, and other materials is kept undercover sometimes and it can vary with countries’ policies. Many countries are now using or planning to use plastic polymer bills as an alternative or better choice, which are even more durable, stay cleaner, and can have security features such as transparency. For example, the United Kingdom is planning on switching from cotton to polymer banknotes, The Philippines uses a unique material for its currency 80% cotton and 20% abaca.

Everything has its pros and cons. The costs of producing cotton and linen banknotes are lower than for other forms of cash. The Federal Reserve spends about 6 cents to produce per $1 USD. Sustainability suggests recycling this currency in means of the caloric value of cotton. Used cotton banknotes can be a good substitute for fuel in the ceramic industry. Another sustainable possible solution is to compost the unfit cotton banknotes.

Figure: The currency USD is made out of 75% cotton and 25% linen.

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Field Tests Confirm High Performance of New Accotex Aprons

The latest Accotex apron NO-79201 is made from new compounds that deliver longer life and better performance. Flexible enough to work with all fiber types across ring and compact-spinning machines, field trials show better resistance throughout a 12-month spinning cycle. The NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom aprons for all kinds of applications.

The Accotex NO-79201 (Fig. 1) is a new generation of aprons for ring and compactspinning machines. It is made of two aligned rubber compounds which deliver a high abrasion and crack resistant spinning apron. The mechanical robustness of the rubber compounds allows effective use on all ring and compact-spinning machines, working with all fiber types and within the whole spectrum of yarn counts. The excellent friction properties of the compound contribute to a smooth and even running over the whole service life of the apron, especially at the start-up of machines.

Superior friction behavior

The new Accotex NO-79201 was tested for 12 months at a customer in the USA, alongside the already

existing NO-78210GX, the NO-78210G and a competitor’s apron (Fig. 2). The friction value of the different aprons was measured over the whole apron life in regular frequencies. Each column reflects the individual friction value of the inner layer evaluated on representative apron samples from the field test at 3, 6, 9 and 12 months. After 12 months running, the inner layer friction of the new NO-79201 is nearly unchanged, confirming the smooth and even running over the whole service life of the apron. This superior friction behavior has also been reported from other Accotex customers across the world, processing different fiber types, blends and yarn counts. Besides, these trial customers have noticed far fewer broken bottom aprons than they would normally expect.

Different versions for flexible use

The Accotex apron NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom aprons for all kinds of applications. It comes as closed apron, skived bottom apron or skived and pre-glued bottom apron. The

NO-79201 can be supplied with a plain inside or a specially configured inner layer pattern, known as a knurled version (Fig 3). The main benefit of the knurled apron is to provide less contact area to the nose bar, which enables lower torque, and thus less stress on the bottom roller bearings. This also allows the inside structured apron to run clean on so-called “dirty” fibers and to work efficiently in demanding environmental conditions in terms of fiber cleanliness. The knurled apron is available with diameters of 72.5, 76.3 and 79.0 mm.

Overall, the new Accotex NO79201 spinning apron provides improved performance for ring and compact-spinning with less machine downtime. Its flexible application may also reduce stocking levels and simplify servicing regimes.

BTT Interview

Figure 2: The new apron NO-79201 shows nearly unchanged inner layer friction, confirming unmatched performance over time.

Figure 1: Accotex NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom apron for all kinds of applications.

Fig. 3: Accotex NO-79201 can also be supplied with a knurled inner layer, for increased service life

Sourcing fabric is an early step in the manufacturing process, and it’s a critical one. If the responsible parties have difficulty finding quality fabric suppliers, that challenge could disrupt all other associated production timelines. Asking the right questions of suppliers is also essential because more consumers are starting to think carefully about what happens behind the scenes in the clothing industry.

Are the fabrics durable enough to serve their intended purposes and meet or exceed the expected life span? Can the materials tolerate standard wash cycles? Do their components make them stainresistant or moisture-wicking? Was the fabric sourced in sustainable and responsible ways?

Here are some vital questions people should ask as they engage with fabric suppliers.

1. Do you have relationships with local quality fabric suppliers?

Sourcing fabric made locally is not always possible. However, it’s becoming an increasingly popular selling point for many consumers. Moreover, some fashion retailers have prioritized localization in their sourcing efforts.

Pick ‘n Pay Clothing is a South African retailer with more than 1,600 stores. It hopes to reach a target of 60% locally sourced clothing by 2028. Nearly 40%

4 Important questions to ask when sourcing fabric

Emily Newton, Editor In Chief at Revolutionized

of the retailer’s apparel sales currently meet that criteria. That’s an example of how other people responsible for sourcing fabric could set similar benchmarks to work towards within their operations.

This effort has reportedly created approximately 700 local jobs. It has also taught people at the company to be more resourceful. Sourcing clothing materials became more challenging during the COVID-19 pandemic. Thus, the health crisis pushed company leaders to more heavily utilize a local supply network.

Doing that helped ensure products were available when customers wanted them. The initiative has already paid off in profitability, too.

Several of the company’s clothing categories had sales increases of up to 21% in 2021.

If a supplier does not yet have a localized network, that’s not necessarily a reason to decline to work with them. However, obtaining more products closer to home has numerous benefits that could help a fashion brand strengthen its marketplace position.

2. How much experience do you have sourcing clothing material?

It’s also important to learn about and verify how long a potential supplier has been sourcing fabric. Ample experience increases the

likelihood that a supply chain partner will be able to navigate any challenges that arise.

As people spend more time in the industry, they’ll also naturally learn better supply chain management practices that help them become more resilient against potential shocks. For example, Coca-Cola uses data aggregation to ensure 500 million beverages are in vending machines when they’re needed. Over time, professionals specializing in sourcing fabric will also realize which methods work for them.

As people gain experience in the industry, they’ll also grow their networks, potentially making it easier if one of their raw materials suppliers has a shortage or a similar difficulty. Statistics also suggest parties can see up to a 40% warehouse throughput boost by deploying effective supply chain management strategies.

Increased productivity, enhanced order processing, and faster customs clearance are some notable benefits of using proven supply chain improvement tactics.

3. Do you focus on sustainability when sourcing fabric?

Today, many big-name fashion retailers, including Primark and H&M, are giving customers more options for sustainable fabrics in their clothing for sale. However, as many people who look deeper

Figure: Sourcing fabric is an early step in the manufacturing process, and it’s a critical one.

into the sustainability issue realize, striking the right balance between eco-friendliness and other necessities is not easy.

Some of the most sustainable fabrics have characteristics that make working with them difficult. Also, widely available blended fabrics are often soft and comfortable to wear but not as kind to the planet as other options.

People must also assess the fabricprocessing methods associated with certain materials. How much water and energy do they require?

Sustainability also extends to how well the fabric will stand up to wear and washing over the months and years a person owns it.

The European Union is also working on laws concerning the use of single-fiber fabrics. In March, the European Commission published a plan to make more clothes last longer and be recyclable, plus made from recycled materials when possible. The prioritization of single-fiber fabrics is a significant part of

those goals. Blended materials are typically harder to recycle because of the challenges associated with separating the fabrics.

4. What fabric-sourcing information do I need before placing an order?

Most companies that help customers with sourcing fabrics have established yardage-based minimums for their orders.

Reputable fabric suppliers will be transparent about those specifics. Procurers should take the time to learn about what they must order and the average fulfillment timeframes. They also must figure out how much they can feasibly buy at once and the expected frequency of repeat orders.

Sourcing clothing material is often more manageable when suppliers offer sample yardage. Purchasers can then feel more confident that certain options will meet their needs. If that’s not possible, the people responsible for sourcing fabric should ask for swatches or headers. Those will be helpful

Experts Views

when engaging with stakeholders about the possibilities.

Once people have narrowed down which fabrics they want to buy, most suppliers will ask for details like the style numbers or colors of the requested items. That’s why it’s important to write down that information and take suppliers’ business cards, especially while visiting events such as textile shows.

Following up with fabric suppliers after meeting them is also essential. Such organizations often get very busy after having a presence at industry events. Representatives may not take the initiative to contact you, even if the in-person discussion seemed very productive.

Start sourcing fabric like a pro The task of sourcing clothing materials and forming strong relationships with quality fabric suppliers requires ongoing dedication. These questions will get people off to a good start in finding the materials they need.

Cute Dress invites BAYLA team to promote knowledge sharing culture

Shohel Ahmed

Cute dress industry Ltd. recently invited Bangladesh Apparel Youth Leaders Association (BAYLA) to spread knowledge amongst the young generation.

Cute Dress is a sustainable knitwear manufacturing unit in Bangladesh that has been striving to minimize the use of natural resources.

The factory is made under the guidance of the US Green Building Council (USGBC) and has achieved an excellent rating point on Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED).

By aiming to increase the market potential of the garment industry through the development and

diversification, BAYLA visited cute dress.

Sheikh H M Mustafiz, Managing Director, Cute Dress Industry Limited said, “It is always great to see the young generation want to learn more and want to contribute more to national econ-omy.”

Along with the target of research, capacity building through training, increasing productivity and creating new opportunities.

Also, Bayla is to coordinate and unite all the leading organizations in the garment industry, with interest and diligent efforts,

Notably, this non-political organization is a combination of the enthusiasm of the youth and

Figure: Cute dress industry Ltd. recently invited Bangladesh Apparel Youth Leaders Association (BAYLA) to spread knowledge amongst the young generation.

the experience of the elders.

Abrar Hossain Sayem, President, BAYLA and Vice Presidents, Directors of BAYLA were present at the factory visit.

BTMA concerns over banks avoid LC opening

Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) recently expressed worry that most commercial banks avoid opening letter of credit (LC) under Export Development Fund (EDF), UPAS (Usance Payable at Sight) and deferred-payment systems for US$ scarcities which, textile spinners dread, may harm and lead to production holdup of basic readymade garments (RMG) raw material.

Banks shun to opening LC under EDF, UPAS & deffered-payment system. Spinners may run 3-4 months with existing raw-material stock. BTMA urge BB to take needed actions & instruct banks accordingly.

The BTMA letter, signed by its President Mohammad Ali Khokon, to the Bangladesh Bank highlights that in such a state domestic spinning mills will have to continue production over the next couple of months only with the present raw materials in stock.

Mohammad Ali Khokon said that BTMA members cannot import the necessary raw materials like cotton, polyester staple fiber (PSF) and viscose staple fiber (VSF) to

feed the RMG exporters though the millers already received orders.

“Diminishing stocks of raw materials amid commercial banks’ reluctance to open LCs might ruthlessly obstruct production and exports of textile and apparel items,” BTMA President said in the letter.

Usually, Bangladeshi textile mills stock four to five months of raw material – cotton, PSF and VSF on a regular basis – for constant production and exports, Khokon points out, highlighting that it also takes three to four months to get imported raw materials.

“As per data we have, mills might run production for the next three months with their existing rawmaterial stocks.”

BTMA worries that spinning mills operations might come to a crashing halt if banks don’t open LC for raw material imports, leading to yarn absence. The production interruption will not only extend the existing USD crisis but also upset the export earnings of the country. On top of that, increasing unemployment of many workers.

BTMA demanded the central bank to take needed actions and instruct the commercial banks accordingly as regards the opening of LC under EDF, UPAS and deferred systems.

When asked, echoing Khokon’s views, Humayun Kabir Salim, Managing Director, Khantex Fashion Ltd. said to Textile Today, “Most of the apparel factories back-to-back LC date has been expired or overdue – as the RMG orders are not shipped. While banks pressuring manufacturers for payments making us suffer in an unimaginable way.”

Mohammad Hatem, Executive Vice President of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), said to media, “Under UPAS system banks are receiving delayed payments, in many cases after 150 days, while they have to wait up to one and a half months to settle regards to EDF which usually takes three days. Many banks, currently, are unwilling to open LCs under these systems mainly because of dollar crisis that results in delayed payments.”

Banks shun to opening LC under EDF, UPAS & defferedpayment system

BTMA urge BB to take needed actions & instruct banks accordingly

Spinners may run 3-4 months with existing rawmaterial stock

Economical compact-spinning using state-of-the-art technology

Suessen Story

The COMPACTeasy mechanical compacting system from Suessen addresses the need for higher productivity and cost optimization in compact spinning. The system can spin high-quality yarn from all common raw materials – at a high speed. Low investment cost, less energy consumption and minimal maintenance make COMPACTeasy an attractive alternative to pneumatic systems for spinning mills.

mechanical compacting solution that offers low investment cost without compromising on quality. It produces yarns with excellent characteristics from a broad range of raw materials, such as cotton and man-made fibers, as well as their blends. With a count range from Ne 20 to Ne 60, COMPACTeasy covers most applications.

The recipe for success

COMPACTeasy guides fibers through the y-channel of the compactor with precision, which results in intensive double compacting (Fig. 1) without any additional energy requirements compared to ring spinning.

located between the two top rollers. The compactor spring uses a low spring force to press the compactor against the bottom roller. This causes considerably less wear and tear on the compactor than magnetically loaded compacting elements.

Saving energy and cost are decisive factors for spinning mills today. Most spinning systems require both a high level of initial investment as well as considerable operating cost. While compact spinning is appreciated for its excellent yarn quality and high productivity, it can also be very cost-intensive, especially with pneumatic compacting systems requiring a lot of electricity.

Unmatched compact-spinning quality

Continually striving to push boundaries of innovation, Suessen developed COMPACTeasy, a

Compared to other mechanical systems, the compacting channel of COMPACTeasy is much wider, so it is less prone to clogging. Thanks to the traverse motion of the compactor (Fig. 3), the lifetime of cots is extended resulting in lower maintenance requirements and constant and durable yarn quality. This is a considerable advantage compared to flipping the front top roller, which is what mechanical systems usually require.

Sophisticated technology for less wear and tear

The device consists of a front top-roller retainer and the smaller COMPACTeasy roller (Fig. 2). The compactor features the y-channel and the preceding pin and is

Figure 4: COMPACTeasy can be installed in new and existing ring spinning machines.

The yarn quality is determined by both the y-channel of the compactor and the integrated pin, which takes effect precisely in the zone of the drafting system where the fibers have the least guidance. This process improves yarn irregularity and increases yarn tenacity. Hairiness is also significantly reduced and often achieves better results than pneumatic compacting systems.

Flexibility and compatibility

COMPACTeasy can be added to the specifications for new ring spinning machines (Fig. 4). Furthermore, machines that have already been installed can easily be retrofitted. COMPACTeasy enables production to be switched from ring to compact yarn by simply installing or removing the compacting device on a ring spinning machine.

Suessen customers are not just impressed by COMPACTeasy’s low investment and operating cost, they also appreciate the very high yarn tenacity and consistency, as well as the ability to produce a wide range of fibers and counts.

Figure 1: The y-channel in the compactor enables intense double compacting for all yarn counts.

Figure 2: COMPACTeasy retainer with COMPACTeasy roller, easy-spring, and compactor with y-channel.

Figure 3: Transmission of the traverse motion to the compactor (view from the rear).

Murata Vortex Seminar 2022 showcases its groundbreaking sustainable spinning system for the apparel makers

Murata Machinery Ltd. organized Murata Vortex Seminar 2022 – to showcase its groundbreaking ‘Vortex yarn’ for the Bangladesh apparel industry at Radisson Blu hotel in Dhaka. Around 200 guests from leading brands, buying house, sourcing companies & spinners joined in the knowledge sharing grand event.

Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) industry is globally leading with its manufacturing apparel items. The Vortex yarn standout in making fashion apparels due to its various unique features, the Vortex Seminar 2022 displayed Vortex yarn’s high quality value-added yarn with high function and fashion applicability. Thus, Murata sees huge potential for the Bangladesh market. As the industry is changing rapidly and all the well-known fashion brands and retailers are moving more value-added and technical garments to Bangladesh.

The seminar stressed on recent challenges the textile factories are facing glitches in apparel products like Hairiness in surface which creates Pilling, Non-durable garments, Spirality etc. The yarn Vortex in the textile & apparel sector has brought up innovative creation along with new application methods. This advanced type of yarn has brought out an impressive feature in textile performances.

The unique structure of fibers are controlled in this yarn to make this for special performance in textiles. The seminar successfully highlighted Vortex yarn’s reliability, high quality products and its exciting values, as well as, environmental-friendliness to the industry.

Shunya Okumura, Sales & Marketing Representative, Murata Machinery Ltd. hosted the program and welcomed all the guests to attend the knowledge sharing session.

Engr. Salahuddin Ahamed, General Manager of Murata Machinery Bangladesh Ltd. shared the periodical progress of the spinning process in the industry. He also added “Over 20 countries around the world have used Vortex yarn to promote their products to apparel and distribution companies. And global brands are increasingly using Vortex yarn. So, it is high time for the country’s apparel makers to use Vortex yarn. Bangladesh apparel makers mostly export cotton made garments while the global market is flourishing with manmade fiber. To remain competitive in the apparel exporting destinations— Bangladesh should go for more and more value added apparel production. And here the Vortex yarns can be the top choice to make value added items securing the markets.”

Staff Correspondent

Figure 1: Murata Machinery Ltd. team.

Vortex Sales adviser Engr. Rafiqul Islam & Engr. Khokan, Senior Eng. of Murata Machinery Bangladesh Ltd. said, “Compare to open-end and ring yarn, Vortex offers much better quality and excellent anti-pilling features. Its yarn is a twist structure and all fibers start from the center of the yarn and run outward. The inside and outside of yarn are made up of different function. Also, each and every fiber in Vortex yarn tends to be in the center and wraps up to the surface by the air. This structure leads to the fact about ‘least hairiness’ amongst all spinning systems. Least hairiness reduces the fluff and dust generation in the next process. Printing and dyeing also take advantage of these characteristics.”

“Pilling is a phenomenon where fibers are twisted into ball-like structures by friction between the surface of a fabric and another fabric or object. Because Vortex has less long hairs and is naturally stable due to its structure, the fibers are secure from movement resulting in reduced pilling,” added Khokan.

“In addition, Vortex yarn has less lint shedding, less fabric shrinkage, less fabric skew and less color loss caused by repeated wash and dry, when compared with the yarn by other spinning processes.”

“Vortex can be spun with various other materials such as cotton, synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber and blended fiber. So, Vortex yarn has various functional uses and provides the yarn with a wide range of functionalities. Many value-added or differentiated products have been developed all over the world by using Vortex yarns. The functionality of Vortex yarn is offering the Bangladeshi apparel makers plenty of applications from apparel and distribution to product development proposals,” Khokan concluded.

In the program most of the Vortex machine users from Bangladesh attended the program and displayed their fabric samples through Vortex yarn. To share the practical experience, challenges & benefits of the Vortex running in the factory – 3 Vortex users - N.R. Group, Square Textiles Ltd and Matin Spinning Mills Ltd – also spoke in the program. All the 3 companies mainly addressed how Vortex helped them to produce a new range of yarn for developing value-added garments to contribute to the country’s export earnings. As Vortex technology saves energy, water and resources and diversifies into new product ranges – most of the users are also planning to enhance Vortex yarn production capacity considering the demand & response from the leading buyers.

S. M. Kafee Bipul, Manager (Sales & Marketing), Murata Machinery Bangladesh Ltd. introduced all the valued Vortex users in his presentation and shared their production capacity and special fabrics produced by Vortex technology.

Shuichi Hashimoto, Assistant Manager, Murata Machinery Ltd. presented a resourceful presentation on the sustainability & e-commerce aspects and how Vortex technology designed to meet such aspects. He also addressed – how this technology can help spinners in terms of reducing the plastic products, carbon footprint and contributing SDGs goal.

In the closing address Takuji Yamaoka, Area Manager (Southeast Asia & Bangladesh) said, “Bangladesh RMG industry—the second largest exporter in the world–is globally renowned for its quality apparel items. Murata Machinery Ltd. wants to show the potential of Vortex yarn usage to its existing and prospective clients in the upcoming knowledge sharing grand event. Vortex yarn with its various unique features and structures creating special performance in textiles along with its high function and fashion acceptability.”

In the program some customers of Murata Machinery Ltd. - Square Textiles Ltd, Pahartali Textile And Hosiery Mills Ltd, Panama Composite Textile Mills Ltd, N.R. Group and Matin Spinning Mills showcased their Vortex yarn made products in the event from their respective booths. Textile Today was the media partner of the program and also exhibited in the program.

Figure 3: Customers of Murata Machinery Ltd. - Square Textiles Ltd, Pahartali Textile And Hosiery Mills Ltd, Panama Composite Textile Mills Ltd, N.R. Group and Matin Spinning Mills showcased their Vortex yarn made products.

Figure 2: Around 200 guests from leading brands, buying house, sourcing companies & spinners joined in the knowledge sharing grand event.

Cotton – the unique natural fiber

Uster Story

World Cotton Day – on October 7 every year is a celebration of the world’s most important natural fiber. It’s a good time to take a closer look at cotton from all the different angles – the growers and traders, spinners, fashion addicts and even museum visitors.

the most accurate and repeatable test results for the efficient classification of cotton quality –and more than 3,300 units are installed in 70 countries.

Measured for bale mix and efficiency

For spinning mills, cotton purchasing accounts for more than 50% of costs. Consistent data from HVI is the first step in successful production in spinning operations – in terms of both quality and cost.

Fiber testing is essential during the spinning preparation stages, to minimize any negative financial impact of excess waste, unnecessary cuts, reworking, and customer claims.

The Bremen Cotton Exchange has been shaping the global cotton trade through its competence, neutrality and authority for 150 years.

Everlasting

The first evidence of cotton use was found in India and Pakistan, and dates back to around 6,000 B.C. That means cotton’s been keeping people dressed for over 8,000 years.

During the covid situation, the need for smart office wear was replaced by an increased emphasis on comfort in everyday clothing. This sparked a trend for ‘sofa to street’ apparel which is still here today. People clearly love the gentler touch of their cotton gear, and that has translated into a real fashion choice.

This article is dedicated to cotton, a unique fiber. It is a true multitalent: from jeans to banknotes (US paper money is made with 75% cotton and 25% linen), it is almost unthinkable to imagine our everyday life without cotton. The fluffy fiber is found in many different products as an ideal and much-appreciated raw material.

Measured for value

Cotton can be precisely described with 14 quality characteristics – focusing on length, strength, fineness, color, maturity, trash and moisture content of the fiber. The value of cotton as a raw material depends on its quality. Key factors are long and uniform fiber length, optimal fineness for each application and high strength for precious fibers.

Some cotton growers and traders rely on their years of experience to set the right price for a batch of cotton, but over half of world cotton production is classed objectively by High Volume Instruments (HVI) from Uster Technologies. The HVI provides

Another fiber measurement instrument is responsible for profitable production: Uster AFIS Pro 2 provides the essential data necessary for modern process optimization techniques.

100% cotton

The cotton story goes back over 5,000 years. Today, cotton fiber is found in clothing and cosmetics items. Applications span the invention of toilet paper to the recycling of denim pants into vehicle construction components.

100% cotton is printed on tags of countless items of clothing and on signposts leading to a special exhibition at the Übersee-Museum (overseas museum) in Bremen, Germany. The exhibition offers a fascinating look at cotton’s cultural history and shares surprising, new, but also controversial stories about the soft fiber.

Uster is proud that the curators of the Übersee-Museum considered the HVI as part of cotton’s essential history. The Uster cotton classing instrument was selected as an exhibit and visitors have the opportunity to try their hand as a cotton tester to determine color, length and price.

India was the foremost cotton processing country for hundreds of years, and it’s fitting that its traditions with the world’s favorite fiber still hold good today.

High-technology instruments, systems and services cover quality control, prediction, certification and optimization. The portfolio comprises quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control instruments for fibers, staple fiber, and filament yarns, fabrics and nonwovens.

Uster Statistics, the unique global benchmarks for textile trading, complement a portfolio of value-added services that includes training, consultancy and worldwide after-sales.

The Uster philosophy aims to drive innovation forward by meeting market needs – always with ‘quality in mind’.

Uster Technologies is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in major markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel).

Figure 1: On October 7 every year is a celebration of the world’s most important natural fiber.

Dysin launches new plant for specialty polymer manufacturing

Recently, Dysin Group’s Textile Auxiliaries manufacturing unit under the name of NAM Trading & Manufacturing Co., Ltd., became the first company in Bangladesh to receive ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Confidence Level 3 certification – the highest ZDHC certification level currently available.

In this regard, Managing DIrector, Dysin Group, Md. Amanur Rahman said, “Working to be certified as ZDHC level 3 was a key achievement in our commitment to drive the Bangladesh textile industry to be more environmentally friendly and reduce its impact on the environment.”

Dysin Group, one of the pioneers to introduce new technologies for the Knit-Dyeing, Garments Washing, and Garments Printing Industries in Bangladesh since 1984, has set up a new plant for Specialty Polymer Manufacturing under the name of Dysin-Chem Industries (Pvt.) Ltd. at BCSIC Industrial Area, Konabari, Gazipur on 16th September.

“We have been working in the textile industry since 1984, providing Dyestuff and Chemicals with technical services. Now

Dysin is recognized as a trusted leader in delivering innovative and sustainable chemical solutions across multiple industries. The setup of a specialty Polymer Manufacturing Plant is an important part of our vision to grow in local manufacturing capability. This plant will serve

to produce the intermediate chemicals used as raw materials in our textile auxiliaries manufacturing, in turn reducing the cost,” said Chairman of DYSIN Group, Mizanur Rahman.

He also added, “Our first manufacturing unit for Textile Auxiliaries was established in 1990.

Now Dysin has three chemical manufacturing units under two companies, including a 100% exportoriented unit that serves the Export factories having a bond license.”

Mizanur Rahman pointed out that instead of importing chemicals from abroad, textile mills can save valuable foreign currency, reduce their inventory, and reduce the lead time of garments export if they buy from local Textile Auxiliaries manufacturing companies like those of the DYSIN group.

Md. Amanur Rahman, who is also the convener of Bangladesh Chemical & Dyestuff Manufacturers’ & Exporters’ Association, said, “We believe Bangladesh is at a turning point of Industrialization with huge potential for growth in Chemical Industry, which can bring the second wave of industrial & export growth after the textile industry. However, we need Government’s policy support for this sector very much.”

Dysin is continuously investing to expand its R&D and manufacturing capabilities of Chemicals for Textile & other industries. We want to provide maximum benefit through “specialized” high-performance chemicals, for our customers to win in the marketplace, save our environment and contribute to making the world a better place, the company said in a media statement.

Desk Report

Figure 2: Mizanur Rahman (Right), Chairman and Md. Amanur Rahman, Managing DIrector, Dysin Group opening the new plant.

Figure 1: Dysin set up a new plant for Specialty Polymer Manufacturing under the name of Dysin-Chem Industries (Pvt.) Ltd.

Cost of shipping in Asia-US route drops lowest in last 2 years

Yeasin Miah

The global supply chain has been disrupted since the pandemic started. Due to the Covid restrictions, the industries were facing closure for various periods and delay in product delivery. Two years of disruptions have pushed shipping costs to record highs. This has increased inflationary pressures around the world. However, the global economic uncertainty has weakened consumer demand in recent times. As a result, shipping costs from Asia have reduced. Shipping costs between Asia and the US has fallen to their lowest level last week in more than two years.

According to shipping industry research consultancy Drewry, the cost of transporting a 40foot container from Shanghai, the world's largest port, to Los Angeles fell to $3,779 last week. For the first time since September 2020, the cost has fallen below $4,000 in the spot market. Even three months

ago, the amount of this expenditure has come down to half.

Simon Heaney, senior manager of Drewry's container research division said, it is now clear that the forecast for trans-Pacific and container shipping demand is declining rapidly. However, the demand for the product increases massively during this time of the year, but this time there is an exception.

Due to high inflation, the purchase of non-essential goods has decreased significantly. In this situation, factories in Europe and Asia are also reducing production. As China's economy slows down, demand for imports also falls. As a result, orders from Asian and European companies in China are experiencing weak growth or decline.

Recently, cargo owners have called on agents and freight forwarders in Asia to reduce shipping costs. Some exporters reported spending almost twice as much

on long-term contracts as on the spot market. Shipping companies are calling on exporters to increase cargo shipments. But exporters are rejecting it due to weak economic outlook.

Peter Sand, chief analyst at Janet, a market research firm in the shipping sector, said, "We have collected customer feedback. 50 percent of them have successfully negotiated term contracts to reduce freight costs. Shipping costs are trending downwards, largely due to reduced global demand. Along with this, the congestion in the ports has also reduced. As a result, ships are able to transport goods more efficiently.

Blucheez on boards Shakib Al Hasan as Brand Ambassador

Sayed Abdullah

The biggest name to have risen from Bangladeshi cricket spheres is without a doubt Shakib Al Hasan. Blucheez Outfitters, a top online fashion brand in Bangladesh, has announced the master all-rounder cricket star of the country as their Brand Ambassador.

It has been said that Shakib will work very closely with Blucheez Outfitters to inspire and positively reinforce that anyone can be stylishly and comfortably themselves – as per Blucheez’s brand motto – ‘Comfortably You!’

On the occasion, Founder of Blucheez Outfitters, Dr. Engr. MD. Kamruzzaman said, “We could not have been more thrilled to have a national and international icon onboard with us as our brand’s spokesperson. He has proved repeatedly why he is the best at what he does. We feel that it is exactly that winning attitude which inspires others to always be the best version of themselves.”

Upon becoming the Brand Ambassador for Blucheez Outfitters, Shakib Al Hasan has said, “I am very pleased to

be associated with Blucheez Outfitters. I believe that Blucheez is making a great contribution to the fashion industry in Bangladesh. I also believe that the brand follows an international standard, inspires and stays true to itself.”

Figure: Blucheez Outfitters on boards Shakib Al Hasan as Brand Ambassador.

Textile Sourcing Meet’ 22 attracts overwhelming response

Textile Sourcing Meet ’22 organized on 17 and 18 September 2022 at a hotel in Dhaka was a great success with an overwhelming response, making it the first-of-its-kind Buyer-Seller Meet bringing the top Textile fraternity of Bangladesh & India in a collaborative environment.

The class apart congregation of Bangladesh & Indian Textile Manufacturers, Industry Experts & Government Representatives under one roof witnessed a grand inauguration by the Chief Guest, Mr. Tipu Munshi, Hon’ble Commerce Minister, Bangladesh. Guests of Honor included President – BGMEA, Faruque Hassan; Vice President – BGMEA, Shahidullah Azim; Director –BGMEA, Neela Hosna Ara; President – IICCI, Atul Saxena; Masudur Rahman, President, BGEA; Shovon Islam, Chairman – Press & Publicity – BGMEA, and Shwapna Bhowmick Country Head – M&S.

The event witnessed a footfall of over 900+ top fashion buyers, exporters & manufacturers over the two days as well as a number of delegates and dignitaries.

The Event showcased Textile Companies in Fabric, Trims & Yarn Categories from India &

Commerce; Important panel discussions on Sustainable Product Development & How to Infuse Trends in Sustainable Fashion. Some of the major topics discussed were the need for product diversification, sustainable alternatives for material sourcing and how traceability can translate into the textile industry & contribute to sustainability.

Bangladesh with their product development capabilities along with their USPs based on Trends & Innovation to Fashion buyers & Manufacturers looking for Sourcing Quality, Sustainable & Innovative materials for international markets. It was an endeavor to facilitate deeper engagement and integrate the textile value chain between India and Bangladesh through panel interactions with top delegates, networking & business growth sessions, product development displays and trend forecasting. It’s also noteworthy to mention the vision of BGMEA President, Faruque Hassan of working towards a $100 billion industry by 2030.

Day 1 had Panel discussions on vital topics like ‘Bridging the Sourcing Gap between India and Bangladesh’ and ‘Stitching the Value Chain with Sustainability & Traceability’.

Speakers discussed working together on various issues such as easing the cross-border barriers between two nations and speeding up the transportation of raw materials and boosting export and import.

Day 2 also witnessed Digital Fashion Show & introduction of Metaverse in the Textile ecosystem and concept of Experiential

Notable Dignitaries from India and Bangladesh were present including Emdad Miazi, General Secretary – BGEA; Jannatul Ferdous Nipa, Director RMG – IICCI; Kamal Uddin, Chairman – Standing Committee on Trade Fair BGMEA; Mir Ripon, Chairman – Standing Committee of Market Development BGMEA; Umesh Gaur, Asia Head –Tukatech; Ann Mary, Director – X Ray Jeans; Barrister Shehrin Salam Oishee, Director – BGMEA & Envoy Design Ltd.; Manjit Singh Saini, CEO – Paramount Instruments; Mofazzal Hosen Pavel, Managing Director, Dongyi Sourcing Limited; Rana, Director – Union Group; Asiful Islam Arif, Sr. Sales Manager – Coats Digital; Manan Gondalia, Director – Yes Fashions Ltd; Rajib K Islam, Head of Allure Sourcing; Vaibhav Arora, MD – Rasik Vatika; Amit K Biswas, Director – Chaity Group; Kamal Kulshreshtha, Head of International Business Development – Colorjet; Abrar Hossain, Director – Sayem Group; Kyaw Sein Thay, MD – Cloth “R” Us Ltd.; Swapan Kumar Saha, KGS Sourcing; Keshav Choudhary from Krishna Fashion and Amit Kansal from Acme Fashion along with members of BGMEA, BKGEA, BGEA, BGBA, BTMA, FBCCI & BKMEA.

The two day, Textile Sourcing Meet ’22 hosted by SOWTEX (B2B marketplace for fashion & textile Industry) in Joint Association with Fashion Export Fraternity led by Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association BGMEA, Bangladesh Garment Executives Association (BGEA) and Indian Importers Chambers of Commerce and Industry (IICCI).

Shohel Ahmed

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