Textile Today August 2022 Issue

Editorial Panel

Editor in Chief

Prof. Md. Monirul Islam

Executive Editor

Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor

Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor

Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor

Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Eousup Novee

Managing Editor Akhi Akter

Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha

Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir

Editor & Publisher

A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 09th August 2022 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd

Printed by:

VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy.

Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution.

© All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2022 Volume 15, Issue 08 (August 2022) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

Bangladesh’s apparel export to US hits record of $9 billion in FY22

Australia to continue duty-free market access for Bangladesh after LDC graduation

Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturers should set an attainable goal which will ensure a sustainable goal. The export target of $100 billion by 2030 is undoubtedly an eye catching target, but many industry experts urged to emphasize more on increasing profit margin by exporting value added textile and apparel items.

Setting $100bn export target requires some macro-economic factors on the table

Akhi Akter

Though Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has recently set an annual export target of $100 billion by 2030, but we are observing that the country is experiencing a slowdown.

Foreign exchange reserves in Bangladesh slipped to $39.79 billion as of July 13 from $45.33 billion a year earlier. And the country’s trade deficit widened to a record $33.3 billion in the fiscal year ended June.

The US dollar has soared to record Tk 102.4 on the open market as the Bangladeshi taka has lost its value. According to the industry experts, the main reason behind the taka devaluation is a shortage of the foreign currency due to high import costs.

Bangladesh's inflation rate has topped 6 per cent for nine consecutive months, with annual inflation in July hitting 7.48 per cent, putting pressure on people’s life and overall economy.

On top of that, Bangladesh government took a decision to increase fuel prices by up to 51.7 percent, the highest such increase in the country's history. Many prominent economists claimed that government has set the new fuel price to fulfill a key condition of the International Monetary Fund (IMF) from which Bangladesh is seeking a USD 4.5 billion loan. A key condition to have the loan, among other conditions, is the withdrawal of subsidies from the energy sector.

Whatever the reason behind the fuel price hike, it will directly affect electricity, transport and other sub-sectors. Due to the overall economic condition-along with other industries--country’s export oriented garment business is facing trouble. Existing gas crisis and power cut widened the trouble much more. The cost of doing business is increasing dramatically.

Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturers should set an attainable goal which will ensure a sustainable goal. The export target of $100 billion by 2030 is undoubtedly an eye catching target, but many industry experts urged to emphasize more on increasing profit margin by exporting value added textile and apparel items.

Also, sector peoples demanded to upgrade the ease of doing business removing the barriers—what businessmen face while doing business.

In order to maintain the continuous development of the textile and apparel industry and reducing economic slowdown government should change its strategic plan to outline the country’s long term vision to enjoy a sustainable economy.

Akter Managing Editor Textile Today

Akhi

Author:

$100bn RMG exports by 2030

Here is, how to achieve the target

Textile Today Analysis

With record export earnings of $42.61 billion in the fiscal year 2021-22, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), has set a target to earn $100 billion by 2030 from the clothing products.

In attaining the target of $100 billion export target, the sector has to earn $7.17 billion each year. Against 35.47 per cent growth in FY22, the sector also has to post an 11.26% annual growth in export earnings till 2030.

The ambitious target was set at a time when the global economies are bleeding due to the Covid-19 pandemic impacts and ongoing Russia-Ukraine war.

On the other hand, the LDC graduation in 2026 will be another challenge for the exporters. This is because of possible duty free benefits withdrawal by the importing countries in the post-graduation period.

Several researches showed, Bangladesh will have to range from 9%-12% duty after Bangladesh’s graduation to a developing country.

But it is not impossible to reach the target despite having the crisis and challenges as the sector has experience of 40 years with a skilled and dedicated as well as technology adoptable workforce.

What the sector needs is a strategic plan and continued government policy support in the next eight years to touch the peak of success to earn $100 billion.

Non-cotton goods, technical textile will be game changer

When the exporters’ platform set the vision its President Faruque Hassan stated that it is possible to achieve as they are diversifying the products and markets with focus on non-cotton products. Also upgrading machinery and

giving priorities on scaling and recalling workers. Non-cotton products are the future of fashion. In achieving the target, there is no alternative to penetrate this segment gradually.

As about 75 per cent export earnings of Bangladesh is concentrated on cotton products, there is a huge opportunity to grow in this segment.

As per market watch research data, the global NonCotton Fabrics market size was $27.48 billion in 2021 and it is expected to reach $45.85 billion by the end of 2027, with a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 7.1% during 2021-27.

Meanwhile, another report showed the global Non Cotton Fabrics Market Size was estimated at $27.51 billion in 2021 and is projected to reach $44.50 million by 2028, exhibiting a CAGR of 7.11%.

In the global fast fashion industry, over 78% of items are made from MMF and only 22% from cotton fiber. Bangladesh is in the opposite direction and it produces 74% cotton products and only 26% are MMF-based. Exporters are increasingly entering into manufacturing products from manmade fibre (MMF) and synthetic as the demands are growing very fast But the pace of growth is not enough to grab more shares from the $27.48 billion market of non-cotton products.

In achieving the $100 billion export target, Bangladesh will highly rely on three important products such as mid-range garment items, MMFmade items and technical clothes including uniforms used by healthcare professionals and professionals in other service sectors.

For increasing exports of non-cotton products, Bangladesh has to make more investments in the primary textile sector to produce required fabrics and yarn. Foreign investment and joint ventures could be a great tool, which will help to acquire knowledge from others.

Balancing knitwear and woven good exports

In FY22, export earnings from apparel products rose sharply by 35.47 per cent to $42.61 billion, which was $31.45 billion in the previous year. The sector contributed 81.81 per cent to the national exports.

Of the $42.61 billion, knitwear products fetched $23.21 billion, up by 36.88 per cent from last fiscal year’s $19.91 billion, while woven items earned $19.39 billion, registering a 33.82 per cent growth.

Knitwear products contributed much better than

woven products. Knitwear products contributed 44.56 per cent, while woven products 37.23 per cent.

For sustaining the growth and to earn the $100 billion from the sector, there is a strong need to bring balance between woven and knitwear products.

Knitwear products did well as the sector has a strong backward linkage and it can meet 85% to 90% demands of raw materials from domestic sources.

On the other hand, the woven sector can meet around 50% raw materials from domestic sources, which is a barrier to growth.

To reduce the gap between the woven and knitwear sector, the industry people have to come up with new investments to improve capacity to supply raw materials from local factories.

Cash incentive is a must

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) sent a letter to the Commerce Ministry, demanding a 10% cash incentive on the export of non-cotton garment items.

Exporters are new in this area and they need policy support including incentives against exports.

The government should offer at least 5 percent cash incentives against exports and more duty free benefits for importing raw materials for this sub sector.

A file from the Commerce Ministry was sent to the Finance Ministry a month ago, recommending at least 5% additional cash incentive for the shipment of non-cotton garment items, which are made from manmade fibre (MMF).

At the same time, the government has to continue existing cash incentives against exports of apparel goods. But there is a need for assessing the impacts of cash incentives.

Based on the findings, the incentives can be offered to new items and the amount could be changed.

New market exploration very crucial

As many as 71.37 per cent of Bangladesh’s apparel exports earnings come from EU and US markets. And the crisis in these markets poses a threat our exports earnings.

On the other hand, exports to non-traditional or new markets are nearly 15 per cent.

Among the non-traditional markets, only exports to Japan reached the billion dollar mark, while India and Australia are very close to reach as exports stood at $715 million and $812 million in the last fiscal year.

So, there is scope to grow non-traditional markets. And the promising markets are Japan, Australia, Russia, India, Brazil, and Malaysia.

Due to proximity, there is a huge opportunity to grow in the South Asian market as the culture and clothing pattern are the same and Bangladesh enjoys duty free benefits.

In addition to these, Bangladesh has to focus on the Middle East market. Manufacturers should focus on these markets and develop products for these markets.

Against a $10 billion exports market in Gulf countries, Bangladesh exports to the region are only about 367.49 million.

So, penetration to the export market of United Arab Emirates (UAE), Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Oman, Kuwait and Bahrain will be a great option for Bangladesh to enlarge export value and volume.

Capacity and productivity improvement needed

The existing capacity and productivity is not enough to earn $100 billion by 2030.

Compared to our competitors, the productivity is low and it is hovering around 60%-70%, while Bangladesh’s competitors’ workers’ productivity is between 90% and 100% percent.

In remaining competitive in the global exports market, there is no alternative to increase productivity. The manufacturers have to retain the skilled workers by offering retirement and other benefits.

In addition to this, semi-automation and technology up-gradation is very crucial for improving productivity and capacity. Workers should be trained to be capable of running technology.

Research and innovation (R&D) is a must Fast fashion industry changes its pattern every day. Consumer taste also changes rapidly. So, the sector people have to have a dedicated team to cope up with the fancy trend and retain the global buyers.

Industry and academia can join hands in research and innovation for the clothing sector to take it to a new height.

No compromise to compliance

After the Rana Plaza collapse, Bangladesh’s RMG sector turned into the safest one. This gave a boost to buyer’s confidence, which needs to be retained for further growth. If buyers remain with Bangladesh exporters, there will be no challenge in reaching the target as the export oriented sector is buyer driven and they can take Bangladesh to a new level.

Buyers’ has a role to play

Global brands, retailers and buyers have also a responsibility to help Bangladesh reach the $100 billion target. It was a good initiative by the buyers to increase prices of finished goods to adjust the soaring raw materials price. It gave a cushion against the rising production cost caused by supply chain disruption due to Covid-19 and ongoing RussiaUkraine war.

In the coming days, the global brands and retailers have to ensure better prices and follow ethical buying practices while quoting prices for goods. This will give an ease to owners to overcome the cost related challenges and offer a better wage for the workers. However, the exporters have to ensure timely shipment of goods and ensure product quality to retain buyers’ confidence.

Branding Bangladesh

Bangladesh has many stories such as safety standards, green factories and good practices, to tell the global buyers and consumers. These have to be presented to the new and existing buyers to grab more shares in the export market by acquiring more work orders.

According to BGMEA data, there are 165 green factories in the RMG sector certified by US Green Building Council’s (USGBC).

Bangladesh’s RMG sector has taken the lead in green manufacturing with 50 in the platinum category, 101 in gold, 10 in silver, and another four LEED-certified factories.

Bangladesh has another opportunity to grow further as a good number of investors are relocating business from China. To cash the opportunities, we have to attract investors also focusing on manufacturing goods China is leaving.

Foreign investment should be allowed in the high end products, which will help to acquire knowledge from their expertise.

On the other hand, the government should offer plots in the special economic zones to the foreign investors to produce high valued clothing products.

In addition, the political crisis in Sri Lanka, Myanmar is also an opportunity for Bangladesh, which needs to cash through improved communication with buyers.

An overview of Bangladesh’s apparel export during FY22

Textile Today Analysis

In the fiscal year 2021-22, Bangladesh has crossed the milestone of $50 billion in exports for the first time. Bangladesh’s exports increased by 35.47 percent in one fiscal year. From July 2021 to June 2022, Bangladesh exported goods worth $52.08 billion in a total of 12 months, of which $42.61 billion was from ready-made garments, which accounted for 81.81 percent of total exports in the just-ended fiscal year. In the previous fiscal year, apparel exports were worth $31.45 billion.

Apparel export trend during FY22

The main reason for the success of the RMG sector in Bangladesh in the last financial year was the diversification of export destinations. Bangladesh's RMG industry is present in 11 countries with billion-dollar exports. Out of the 11 countries in Bangladesh's billion-dollar export list, seven are EU countries.

In FY 2021-22, the total export of garments to European Union countries was 21.41 billion, which is about 50.22 percent of the total export of the garment sector of Bangladesh. The previous year's exports were 15.98 billion dollars. Total exports to European Union countries increased by 33.87 percent in one year.

Exports to Spain increased by 39.65 percent, France by 35.16 percent, Italy by 31.27 percent,

Export growth to traditional markets of RMG industry in Bangladesh

USA Export Increased: 51.57%

Canada Export Increased: 33.22%

Denmark Export Increased: 38.16%

Japan Export Increased: 16.28%

from FY 20-21 to FY 21-22.

UK Export Increased: 30.56%

Spain Export Increased: 39.65%

Italy

Export Increased: 31.27%.

Germany Export Increased: 27.74%

Netherlands Export Increased: 41.25%

France Export Increased: 35.16%

Poland Export Increased: 45.32%

Figure 1: Export growth to traditional markets of RMG industry in Bangladesh from FY 20-21 to FY 21-22.

Poland by 45.32 percent, the Netherlands by 41.25 percent, and Germany by 27.74 percent over the year.

However, the US has been the largest exporter of readymade garments in FY 2021-22. Bangladesh exported about 9.03 billion dollars’ worth of garments to the country. The previous year's exports were 5.94 billion dollars. Exports in one year increased to about 3.06 billion dollars, which is 51.57 percent more than the previous year.

The US market has shown a strong comeback and created additional demand for apparel products as they have overcome the shock of the pandemic and their market is

back to normal. Exports to the UK were $44.9 billion dollars, up 30.56 percent from the previous year.

However, the biggest achievement of Bangladesh's RMG industry in FY 21-22 is the entry into three new export markets with an export growth of billion-dollars. In FY 21-22, Canada, Denmark and Japan join these countries with new billion dollar markets. In the last financial year, Bangladesh exported garments worth about 1.32 billion dollars to Canada.

Last year’s exports were $995.6 million. Bangladesh's RMG market in Canada has grown by 33.22 percent and Denmark by 38.16 percent. In the last fiscal year, Bangladesh's garment exports to

» Japan has one of the world's largest apparel consumption markets, with retail sales totaling USD$100bn in 2021.

» Japan's s textile and apparel imports last year were $26.41 billion.

» In 2021, the sales value of the Canadian apparel market is predicted to be around $20.37 billion.

» Canada imported value of apparel approximately USD 9.98 billion in 2021.

Denmark were 1.15 billion dollars. Besides, Japan is the only country in Asia that has joined the billiondollar market. In the fiscal year 2021-22, apparel exports to Japan were $1.09 billion with export growth of 16.28 percent.

Japan is one of the biggest clothing importers, providing new opportunities for fashion brands and retail sales totaling USD$100bn in 2021. Japan's apparel market comes in just behind the US ($476 billion) and China ($411 billion) markets. Japan has emerged as a promising country for the RMG industry for Bangladesh along with Canada and Denmark.

Canada's apparel market is worth $20.37 billion and the country imported $9.98 billion worth of apparel last year. Denmark's apparel industry is mostly dependent on imports. Denmark's apparel import value reached a peak, amounting to about USD 4.61 billion in 2021. Bangladesh's contribution to Denmark's garment market is about 25 percent. Denmark's apparel market is set to reach a market value of around $5.52 billion this year.

The RMG industry of Bangladesh needs to maintain this trend of exports. Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Director

Mohiuddin Rubel said that overall exports to our major markets have shown a positive trend but the conflict in Ukraine has created geopolitical tensions in the postCovid world. There will be great changes in business in the coming days. The global economy and trade may present a gloomy outlook ahead, which is a concern for entrepreneurs.

Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Vice President Shahidullah Azim said that Bangladesh's apparel has created a good position in new markets and entrepreneurs are working hard to maintain this trend of export growth.

Positive exports trends in nontraditional markets

Bangladesh's apparel sector has shown remarkable growth in exports to non-traditional markets. Total exports to non-traditional markets in 2021-22 were $637.46 million. Exports to

Mexico

» The Danish apparel market is expected to generate revenue of US$5.52bn in 2022.

» Denmark's apparel import value reached a peak, amounting to about USD 4.61 billion in 2021.

these countries have increased by about 25.40 percent compared to the previous year. The highest growth in apparel in nontraditional markets came from Chile, Mexico, India, and Turkey.

Export in Chile in the FY22 was $183.33 million. An increase of about 122.07 percent over the previous year. Besides, exports to Mexico and India increased by 73.34 percent and 69.78 percent respectively in one year.

In Turkey it increased to 65.33 percent. In addition to these countries, exports to Australia, the Republic of Korea, United Arab Emirates, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, New Zealand, and Brazil increased among nontraditional markets.

Export Increased: 73.34%

India Export Increased: 69.78%

FY 21-22.

Chile Export Increased: 122.07% Turkey Export Increased: 65.33%

Figure 2: Japan, Canada, and Denmark’s apparel market size.

Export growth to non-traditional markets of RMG industry in Bangladesh from FY 20-21 to

Also, among the rest of the EU, exports in Austria, Belgium, Finland, Greece, Ireland, Portugal, Romania, Sweden, Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, and Luxembourg increased in 2021-22 compared to 2020-21.

However, exports to China and Russia decreased by 18.04 percent and 1.67 percent respectively. In addition, exports to Bulgaria, Cyprus, Lithuania, and Malta decreased compared to the previous year.

The export growth that Bangladesh has achieved so far is the result of the dedication of the RMG industry, the spirit

and commitment entrepreneurs have shown in all crises. BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said BGMEA is working to facilitate new market exploration and maintain access to preferred markets.

Bangladesh government provides tremendous support for exploring non-traditional markets by cash incentives. However, Bangladesh needs to focus on the sustainability of the RMG business.

In the last few months, the price of textile raw materials has increased by 10 to 20 percent. Utility costs are also rising due to global supply chain disruptions. Hence,

depending on low-cost products will not be any more a sustainable option for Bangladesh's RMG sector. RMG industry has to work on value addition. Value addition will be a sustainable competitive advantage for Bangladesh to achieve new markets.

In addition, garment exporters in Bangladesh will now get cash incentives and subsidies from the government on exports with a 20 percent local value addition. Both BGMEA and the Government of Bangladesh are encouraging entrepreneurs to explore new markets and work on value addition.

Texworld Paris signals the recovery of global textile market

Textile Today Report

More than a dozen Bangladeshi textile, garment and leather companies took part in the threeday trade show Texworld Paris held from July 04 to July 06 in the French capital. This was the summer edition of the expo.

around 20 countries, including Bangladesh, China, Korea, India, Taiwan, Turkey and Pakistan displayed a global fashion range in the expo. This scenario is signaling the recovery of the global textile and clothing market.

In the expo manufacturers exhibited various products on cotton, denim, drapery and tailoring, embroidery and lace, jacquard, knitted fabrics, linen and hemp, prints, shirting, silk, silky aspects, sportswear and functional fabrics, trims and accessories, wool and woollen materials.

At the expo, Bangladeshi participants spent a busy time with trade enquiries and buyers from the UK, France, Germany, Turkey and other European countries, according to the statement.

Md Hasibul Huda, Deputy General Manager of Pioneer Denim Limited that took part in the show, said, “Since life is getting back to normal after the COVID pandemic worldwide, the visitors’ response has been quite encouraging where we communicated with different global brands and retailers.”

Bangladeshi companies participated in the expo ‘The Texworld/Apparel Sourcing/ Leatherworld Paris’ through the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) under the Ministry of Commerce.

Dilara Begum, Commercial Counsellor of Bangladesh in Paris, visited the summer edition of the expo that marked the return of major sourcing countries to the capital of fashion amid the pandemic, said a statement.

More than 400 exhibitors from

Apparel Sourcing Paris is a major clothing sourcing platform for the European market. The wide range of products for men, women, children, and accessories include the entire price spectrum.

France is a major economic partner of Bangladesh. Both countries have developed strong economic cooperation and are enjoying warm business relationships. In fact, ready-made garment is the major Bangladeshi product for export earnings from France.

The other participants were Momtex Expo, Nice Denim Mills, Hossain Dyeing and Printing, Argon Denim, Evince Textiles, Pioneer Denim, NZ Denim, Anannya Socks and Inner Industries, C.B.M International, DD Sourcing, D. K. Textile, Tosa Creation, Lights Creation, Nelima Fashion Wear and Vertex Wear.

The statement said that the next Texworld/Apparel Sourcing/Leather world Paris will also take place on February 06, 2023. Texworld and Apparel Sourcing USA will be held from 19-21 July, 2022.

EU’s looming ecodesign regulation: How should Bangladesh prepare?

Md. Akhtarujjaman, Engineer-Sustainability, Reed Consultancy Bangladesh

As the European Union is going to launch the ‘Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation’ by the end of 2022, Bangladesh has to prepare to deal with the regulatory changes related to sustainability and circularity as its second-largest apparel supplier. New rules proposed by the EU’s executive arm call for mandatory minimum use of recycled fibers by 2030, which would make producers take responsibility for their products’ waste. The European Commission rules would also make the businesses follow the Ecodesign method to design apparel to be long-lasting, reusable, repairable, recyclable, and free of hazardous substances. It would seek to contain the release of microplastics from apparel washing to the environment and to improve global labor conditions in the garment industries as well.

The 27-country bloc eyes on pursuing global progress towards more sustainable and circular textiles in international fora (G7, G20), in the context of the Global Alliance for Circular Economy and Resource Efficiency (GACERE) and the United Nations Environmental Assembly. It is also devising strategies to facilitate the development of green skills to substantiate the circular business model for the apparel industries. To make clear information about the products’ supply and value chain available to the consumers, the regulation is going to make the Digital Product Passport compulsory for the products.

Under this regulation, the EU wants to reduce the environmental impact of their apparel by making brands of the EU countries, as well as global retail giants making turnover from the countries to adopt circular business models, reduce the number of collections per year, take responsibility of the apparel waste, and act to minimize their carbon and environmental footprints.

Ultimately, all these are going to impose a crackdown on the fast-fashion industry. In this context, we should be aware to find ways to meet the changing demands of our largest apparel market. Instead of making cheap and short-lasting products to meet the fast-fashion trend, we have to eye on gaining the capability to develop durable products that can be worn for a long period. Technologies should be available to make products with the good color fastness and tear strength. The availability of good qualities of trims and accessories like buttons, and zippers need to be ensured gradually to make durable products.

Industries should gradually adopt technologies to recycle fibers from textile wastes as this is going to be an area of special focus to be competitive in the market by meeting the requirement of a minimum recycled fiber use. As the brands will have to take responsibility to deal with the apparel wastes, the recycling facility is going to create a big opportunity for the industries to build a strong relationship with the buyers by reducing their burden. If we

It's time to end the model of ‘take, make, break, and throw away' that is so harmful to our planet, our health and our economy. Today's proposals will ensure that only the most sustainable products are sold in Europe. They allow consumers to save energy, repair and not replace broken products, and make smart environmental choices when they are shopping for new ones. This is how we bring balance back in our relationship with nature and reduce our vulnerability to disruptions in global supply chains.”

Frans Timmermans Executive Vice-President for the European Green Deal

become compatible to deal with the textile wastes by recycling, reusing, and repairing, we can take the used apparel back following our export to the EU countries to upcycle the apparel wastes.

Initiatives should also be taken to phase out hazardous chemicals from the production processes. Factories should focus on green chemistry solutions to be competitive in the EU market. The less hazardous chemicals a facility uses to manufacture a certain product, the more competitive it will be in the

“We're working together and we will do more in the future on a sustainable and circular economy and are working internationally with everyone. We are moving forward step by step. We are working with P4G-funded Circular Fashion Partnership (CPF) initiative which aims to achieve a long-term, scalable transition to a circular fashion system that produces new, low carbon footprint and responsibly-made products. The partnership between the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), BGMEA and Reverse Resources (RR) includes 19 brands, 17 recyclers and 85 manufacturers on board

Figure 2: Industry-academia consortium should come forward to find textile waste reusing, repairing, and recycling, technologies.

markets. The EU is concerned about the presence of around 60 hazardous substances in textile products which are considered carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction. Phase out these chemicals as much as possible is mandatory to be competitive in the market. Various digital platforms like ZDHC, Bluesign, BHive, etc. could be helpful tools to prove the chemical transparency of the manufactured products.

Focus on developing competency to play a leading role in manufacturing durable products from natural fibers to alleviate the microplastic problem caused by synthetic fibers should be given. Manufacturing facilities should adopt relevant technologies to prove excellence in this field.

“European consumers rightly expect more environment-friendly and longer-lasting products. More sustainability and resource efficiency also means more resilience when a crisis disrupts our industrial supply chains. By harnessing the potential of the Single Market, making the most of digital tools and improving market surveillance, we will maximize opportunities for businesses and consumers alike. Greater resource and energy efficiency in the construction and textile sectors in particular will generate highly skilled jobs across Europe.”

Thierry Breton Commissioner for the

Faruque Hassan President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

Internal Market, EU

The Digital Product Passport is going to carry out all the environmental footprint information of a product to the consumers to make them choose the

We believe that an industry-wide shift from a linear to a circular business model is one of the key solutions and we very much support the EU Commission’s efforts to establish a coordinated policy framework and a level playing field to drive an impactful and successful industrial strategy. However, we recognize that we need to tackle the issue of the transformation of the industry in a systematic way. For these reforms to be possible in Bangladesh and in other markets, they recognize that they need to support the decision-making of the local authorities. Collaboration with others is vital to enable the necessary transformation of the entire industry.

Circular business models may include: Product-as-service models

Take-back services Second-hand collections Repair services

Industry-academia consortium should be formed to conduct innovative projects to develop textile recycling technologies and reskilling our workforce in the field of textile waste collection, sorting, reuse, preparation for reuse and recycling, recycling, and repairing the products. Circularity principles such as product-as-service models, take-back services, second-hand collections, and repair services could be adopted by SMEs and startups and the govt. should incentivize such adoptions.

apparel product with less environmental impact in terms of energy, water, GHG, chemicals, etc. So, the manufacturing facilities have to find out technologies to and develop processes to manufacture textiles and apparel with less water, less energy, emitting less GHG and VOCs, and using less hazardous chemicals to be the first choice of the customers.

The fashion trend is changing worldwide considering the environmental footprint of the apparel we wear. Like as EU many other nations are also concerned about the environmental issues the world is facing now. People are suffering the issues like climate change, air pollution, water pollution, water shortage, and diseases from hazardous chemicals all over the world. All these are going to change the fashion industry. To sustain our competitiveness in the fashion market, we must transform our business models and manufacturing facilities in line with the needs of sustainable fashion trends rather than only focusing the fast-fashion trends.

RMG export fetches $3.37 bn in July

Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) export fetches $3.37 billion in July of the FY2022-23. And witnessed a 16.61% growth in the first month of the current fiscal year.

The Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data for the first month of the FY2022-23 showed that garment items export contributed 84% to the country’s national export. Most importantly, the sub-sector of RMG export – woven products has seen comparatively higher growth of 23.11% and earned $1.51 billion. while knitwear items export grew by 11.80% and earned $1.85 billion.

“In this difficult time of global economy where our economy is confronted with imported inflation, EURO is falling against US dollars, and the cost of inputs is on the rise, this

growth is showing the resilience of our industry. Yet the outlook remains wary of the economic slowdown in advanced economies,” said Mohiuddin Rubel, Director, BGMEA.

Textile export earnings

Home textile export earning witnessed a 3.89% growth in the first month of the current fiscal year. The promising sector earned $95.95 million. While terry towel export earned $4.23 million. Which witnessed a 13.14% negative growth.

Specialized textiles export earnings have witnessed a promising growth of 39.38% in the first month of the FY2022-23 and earned $16.53 million. Special woven fabric export earnings grew by a stunning 43.66%. The sector exported $2.04 million in July. While

the knitted fabrics earned $8.48 million. And grew by 71.66%.

Jute export

Jute and jute goods earned $63.91 million in July and witnessed 5.17% growth in the first month of the current fiscal year.

Ziaur Rahman Regional Country Manager of Bangladesh, Pakistan and Africa region of H&M

Scaling textile recycling in Europe - turning waste into value

Fiber-to-fiber recycling at scale could be achieved by 2030, creating a new and sustainable circular industry in Europe.

Today, more than 15 kilograms of textile waste is generated per person in Europe. The largest source of textile waste is discarded clothes and home textiles from consumers—accounting for around 85 percent of the total waste. The generation of textile waste is problematic, as incineration and landfills— both inside and outside Europe—are its primary end destinations. This has several negative consequences for people and the environment. But a significant transformation lies ahead that could create a large and sustainable new industry that turns waste into value.

There are multiple ways to address the waste problem, including the reduction of overproduction and overconsumption, the extension of product lifetime, and designing products for increased circularity. One of the most sustainable and scalable levers available is fiber-to-fiber recycling—turning textile waste into new fibers that are then used to create new clothes or other textile products. This space is characterized by fast-paced innovation and a race toward scale. Some technologies, like mechanical recycling of pure cotton, are already established. Other technologies, like chemical recycling of polyester, have been subject to intense R&D and are on the brink of commercialization. Once fully mature, our estimates indicate that 70 percent of textile waste could be fiber-to-fiber recycled.

The remaining 30 percent would require open-loop recycling or other solutions like producing syngas through thermo-chemical recycling. However, today less than 1 percent of textile waste is fiber-to-fiber recycled due to several barriers to scale that need to be overcome.

Collection, sorting, and preprocessing limit the amount of textile waste made available to fiberto-fiber recycling. Collection rates are currently 30 to 35 percent on average, and a large share

of the unsorted gross waste is exported outside Europe. Furthermore, most fiber-to-fiber recycling technologies have strict input requirements for fiber composition and purity—for example, elastane is problematic for several of these technologies. Consequently, textile waste needs to be scanned and sorted according to the relevant input requirements. As another example, jeans must have their zippers and buttons removed—a problem that needs to be solved by preprocessing.

Advanced, accurate, and automated fiber sorting and preprocessing are not yet developed. Finally, to reach their full potential, the fiber-to-fiber recycling technologies must further expand their ability to handle fiber blends, lower their costs, and improve their output quality—these bottlenecks prevent the circular textile economy from scaling. Our analysis indicates that by overcoming these barriers, fiber-tofiber recycling could reach 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030, as illustrated in Exhibit 1.

Exhibit 1

Fiber-to-fiber recycling could reach 18 to 26 parcent of gross textile waste in 2030.

Breakdown of EU-27 and switzerland estimated textile-waste volume as of June 2022, %

Saskia Hedrich

To reach this scale, we estimate that capital expenditure investments in the range of €6 billion to €7 billion would be needed by 2030. The entire value chain, including textile collection, sorting, and recycling, requires investments to reach scale. Our analysis indicates that this industry could—once it has matured and scaled—become a self-standing, profitable industry with a €1.5 billion to €2.2 billion profit pool by 2030. The textile recycling value chain could create a new, valuable raw material that enables more apparel production in Europe, which may lead to additional value creation above what is quantified in this report.

Beyond the direct economic benefits, scaling textile recycling unlocks several environmental and social benefits. For example, in our base-case scenario, about 15,000 new jobs could be created and CO2e emissions could be reduced by approximately 4 million tons—equivalent to the cumulative emissions of a country the size of Iceland. By quantifying into monetary terms several other impact dimensions like the secondary effects to GDP from job creation, CO2e-emission reduction, and water- and landuse reduction, our analysis shows that the industry could reach €3.5 billion to €4.5 billion in total annual holistic impact by 2030—coming to an annual holistic impact return on investment of 55 to 70 percent (Exhibit 2).1

Exhibit 2

Potential

To capture this opportunity, collaboration and innovation will be key

The identified bottlenecks preventing scale are significant and will require several stakeholders to act boldly. Textile recycling in Europe will not reach a favorable state by 2030 unless major action is taken quickly. This report identifies five main ingredients for success.

Critical scale. The textile recycling value chain cannot function at small scale. Critical scale across the value chain is required to provide sufficient feedstock2 to the necessary fiber-to-fiber recycling technologies, and to allow for those recycling technologies to operate at scale. Therefore, the industry must set bold scaling targets and meet them.

Real collaboration. Several of the main challenges ahead are best solved in a highly collaborative manner. Business leaders across the value chain, investors, and leaders of public institutions would need to come together in an unprecedented way to engage in a highly operational joint effort to overcome the barriers to scale.

Transition funding. Although our analysis indicates that the textiles recycling industry could—once it has matured and scaled—become self-standing and profitable, transition funding will be needed in the near term. Examples of such funding include subsidies (potentially Extended Producer Responsibility [EPR] funding) and a green premium (potentially shared by brands and consumers). Public–private solutions may be needed.

Investments. Several parts of the value chain must be built out almost from scratch, which requires significant capital expenditure. Our analysis indicates that sufficient economic value can be realized to make up for the required risk. Private investors would lead this journey by taking initiative to finance building out the value chain.

Public-sector push. Leaders of public-sector institutions would have to help drive textile recycling. Measures include driving up collection rates, limiting the export of unsorted textile waste, engaging in demand stimulation, creating harmonized frameworks for increased circularity, as well as other initiatives.

Fiber-to-fiber recycling at scale can help address Europe’s waste problem by turning waste into value. The European apparel and textile industry can start expanding the required infrastructure for collection, sorting, and closed-loop recycling today. This report establishes the opportunity at stake for textile circularity and highlights actions required to capture it. Furthermore, we hope this report can be a foundation for further research and collaboration to establish textile recycling at scale in Europe.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR(S)

Saskia Hedrich is a senior expert in McKinsey’s Munich office; Jonatan Janmark is a partner in the Stockholm office, where Moa Strand is an associate partner; Nikolai Langguth is a consultant in the Oslo office; and Karl-Hendrik Magnus is a senior partner in the Frankfurt office.

The authors wish to thank their partners at EURATEX and its ReHubs initiative for their contributions to the report, as well as the many industry experts who took the time to generously share their experience, research, and perspectives on textile circularity.

(The report was also published in mckinsey.com)

Scaling textile recycling in EU-27 and Switzerland to the base-case scenario could yield and annual holistic impact of 3.5 billion to 4.5 billion in 2030.

annual holistic impact by type and source for EU-27 and Switzerland as of June 2022,

How Bangladesh can restore the lost glory of golden fiber

Staff Correspondent

Despite having an ample opportunity to earn a huge amount of foreign currency from jute and jute goods exports, Bangladesh failed to cash the advantage and recorded a 2.91 per cent negative growth to $1.12 billion in the last fiscal year.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in the fiscal year 2021-22 Bangladesh recorded a 2.91 per cent negative growth to $1.12 billion in exports earning from jute and jute goods products. It was $1.16 billion in FY21.

Of the total amount, raw jute earned $216 million, up 56.48% from last year’s export receipts of $138 million. Jute yarn and twine, the largest contributor to the sector, earned $698 million, posting a 12.67 per cent negative growth compared to the previous fiscal year earnings of $799 million.

On the other hand, jute sacks and bags witnessed a 14 per cent decline to $ 119 million, which was $138.66 million.

Commenting on the export performance of the jute and jute goods sector, exporters and economists blamed lack of diversification and research and innovation to move for value added products.

On the other hand, there was a shortage of yarn as traders focused on raw jute exports.

“In the FY22, export earnings from jute goods and yarn and twine declined as there was a shortage of yarn due to the crisis and supply shortage,” said Mohd. Shafiqul Islam, Chairman of Bangladesh Jute Goods Exporters Association (BJGEA).

On the other hand, Indian government’s non-tariff and tariff barriers such as anti-dumping duty

$1.12bn jute and jute goods export in FY21-22

Declining by 2.91%

Challenges

• Lack of diversification, R&D, innovation for value added jute products is to blame for export decline

• Higher freight cost & supply chain disruption

expedited the negative growth, said Shafiqul.

But we are hopeful to return to the positive earnings this year as our target is to penetrate in Singapore, Malaysia and Middle-East and European markets with large volume with diversified goods, he added.

Meanwhile, the rise in freight cost and supply chain disruption is another reason for the decline in export earnings as buyers place less orders.

“Shipping rose sharply, while the supply chain disruption hit the exports imports across the globe. Buyers were slow in placing work orders and were offering less prices due to soaring transportation cost,” Esrat Jahan Chowdhury, owner of Tulika, an exporter of jute goods, said.

In addition, higher prices of the raw jute in the domestic market caused by manipulation left exporters in trouble. As a result, they lost competitiveness in the global markets, said Esrat, also a Director of BJGEA.

How to restore the glory of jute

Md Rashedul Karim Munna, Managing Director of Creation Private Limited, a jute goods

Way outs

• Jute exporters eyeing new market diversification to uplift jute sector

• Govt. policy support, innovation, technology upgradation

manufacturer and exporter, said that due to the environmental issues, the consumers are more interested in buying jute products. But due to lack of policy support and innovation, we are not able to cash the opportunity.

At present 80 per cent of the export of this sector is raw jute. The share of jute products should be increased more than raw jute in the export basket, he added.

The Jute sector could be a game changer as the raw materials are collected fully from domestic sources and the value addition is 100 per cent. The sector needs research and innovation to move towards producing diversified jute goods and value added products, said Moazzem.

The government should offer special benefits for the diversified products as multifold earnings could be fetched through goods exports instead of raw jute, he adds.

On the other hand, exporters as well as the government have to explore new buyers and markets as the demand for environmentally friendly jute goods are increasing sharply in the developed countries, said Moazzem.

www.transfarchem.com/en jackie.xu@etransfar.com

Hard realities and national export target for FY2023

AKM Asaduzzaman Patwary

Bangladesh was conventionally known as importdependent economy due to economic nature and resource landscape. In the recent years, economy has been performing consistently and major indicator of economy export gained momentum.

Due to upswing in export trend, government also prioritized the economic orientation on export led industrialization and economic growth. The entire world has been badly victim of pandemic stress while Bangladesh has smoothly contained the vulnerability through resilient economic policies and management.

As a result, our export trade has outperformed other economic actors and facets amidst the COVID and import have heavily surged ending up our foreign trade $145 billion in FY2022. While Bangladesh has been undergoing the pandemic recovery process and flourishing the industrial investment, the war led geopolitical and geo-economic shockwave have somewhat squeezed our economic spree. The global trading system and economic system have been shocked immensely.

The regional economies were hit shrinking their export base especially some South Asian economies were badly crippled. Because of COVID outbreak, the global economy collapsed and revealed vulnerabilities in many dimensions. Despite having all challenges, our economy gained huge trade momentum and become a centre of attraction regionally being branded as the top resilient economy in the Asia and 5th resilient economy in the world. Earlier, the global trade has declined by 5.5% in 2020 but slightly recovered in 2021 but again faced downfall due to widespread global crisis.

Currently, World economy has plunged due to multiple crises including inflation, energy supply crunch and price shock. As a result, IMF revised downward global growth estimation to 3.6% in 2022. This inconsistency in world trade has shaken the spirit of revival of many economies. Against this dwindling global context, $67 billion export earning enshrining both good sand service in FY2023 has been targeted.

Apparently, this target is exciting but there are some despairs and glooms which may overshadow the brightness of the trade growth. Some of the core challenges which may hold back our desired export target are briefly elicited.

Inflation in the US and UK reached over 9%

Liquid fuel supply crunch and decision of rationing diesel supply would affect local industrial power supply

Effects of the RussiaUkraine conflict

Cargo shipping freight cost has gone up from 400% to 500%

Value of taka has declined by 10% in last 3 months against USD

Figure 1: The hard realities Bangladesh economy is facing currently.

The effects of the Russia-Ukraine conflict became apparently widespread when the export industry started to recover from the pandemic. The Europe and the US markets have already experienced a sharp decline in purchasing power due to staggering inflation. Inflation in the US and UK reached over 9 percent as one of the highest rates in the world in their economic history of last 4 decades. Taka has declined by 10% in last 3 months against USD which tightens our foreign exchange reserve. Though Bangladesh still hoards healthy reserve to manage minimum the import cost equivalent to 6 months’ time, the relentless decline in exchange rate of USD and Taka is alarming to large extent.

• Average Gas price hike by 22.78% and 7.6% in industry gas will be detrimental because they will significantly increase production cost of export-oriented manufacturing declining export competitiveness. The liquid fuel supply crunch and decision of rationing Diesel supply would affect local industrial power supply and smooth local transport network resulting into delay in supply chain related to port. Thus, our lead time may

reduce and cost of doing business may hike. RMG export order tends to decline by double digit and raw material import is getting dearer. Exporters have been struggling with the global economy for increased shipping cost.

• Cargo shipping freight cost has gone up from 400% to 500%. A Twenty-feet container shipment used to cost about $3,000 to the USA and $2,500 to the Europe. However, due to disruption in the supply chain and increased fuel price, the freight cost has increased to $18,000 to the USA and $15,000. Though government has taken a commendable step in this budget by exempting taxation from earning of oceangoing vessels, more cost-effective shipping is still required for easing export.

• Our recent import status shows capital machinery import is 7% and industrial raw materials shares 36%. However, the recent restriction on import of luxury and non-essential product, LC margin hike and monitoring on import may enhance our net foreign exchange reserve retention. This restriction may discourage foreign investment and successive fall of exchange rate will not attract new investment. However, the gap of exchange rate in USD-Taka in open market and LC needs to be rationalized for bringing order in FOREX market and economy.

• Taka is devaluating against the US Dollar. We need to ensure the utmost benefit of devaluation process. Therefore, to ensure the maximum benefit from devaluation, we must concentrate on export diversification strategies adding new products to export basket in no time. On the other hand, ongoing currency devaluation poses a serious threat to importers, making businesses less competitive in the long run which may reduce the net retention of export-oriented industries.

• The trade and order loss in Vietnam, Pakistan and Sri Lanka added premium to our sudden export hike in FY2022. As soon as the regional economic context fixes, our unusual growth of 35% may not be sustainable.

• 12% flat rate of corporate tax for all export items is a good move for export diversification. Additionally, expanding the export portfolio with promising products will assist Bangladesh go far and beyond accomplishing $80 billion export target by 2024. However, other nonfiscal benefits like bond and industrial infrastructure are needed to gain the benefit of it.

It's high time to expand the service sector to increase export revenue due to its various dimensions. Creating a national image of quality service provider with diversity can be one of the crucial trade promotion initiatives to boost service export. The target of service market needs larger endeavors to offset the risk of product market loss due to unpredictable market.

Economic diplomacy effort needs to be deepened in regions where export is small in Africa and

» Expanding export portfolio with promising products will assist Bangladesh to attain $80 bn export target by 2024

» Need to expand the service sector to increase export revenue

» Need to consider our integrated export target taking into account the contemporary economic condition

Figure 2: Above approaches should remain in our export policy to sustain.

Middle East, Asia Pacific regions for export market diversification keeping the new market development. We need to diversify our product basket portfolio to manage any export market shock.

Taking into account the changing and unstable geo-economic ambiance, the path to realize this ambitious target is not as easy as thought. The bumpy and ragged world economic state and outlook can cause new concerns to our planned export earnings. In addition, this target has not been made based on any forecast and trend assessment considering local, regional and global economic dynamics.

The planned and research-backed target always remain close to reality and achievable containing the pressing concerns in foreign trade. The foreign trade performance is not linear rather subject to critical and diversified world economic atmosphere. Since Bangladesh is immensely integrated in the global world with the footprint in 190 economies, this global economic context often shapes our economic trend. Export is instrumental in our relentless economic journey.

We need to consider our integrated export target taking into account the contemporary economic condition, performance and other allied actors influencing our economic competitiveness. LDC graduation led transition already changes our economic ecosystem, pattern and this transition will erode many supports and require separate preparedness and strategic actions for sustainable and seamless economic regime.

Healing the global economic ailment through concerted effort should be our agenda for a shared, prosperous and inclusive global economy. Therefore, an ambitious export should not be the main objective at the current context rather building a serene, friendly and compliant industrial base implementation need attention for long-standing and meaningfully objective export business culture towards long-cherished economic transformation for the best interest of all.

Denim giant Wrangler to expand 39 stores in India

Desk Report

With the ambitions of boosting its retail presence in India, the US denim giant Wrangler has just opened 39 new flagship for the denim bigwig store in Mumbai.

Spread over an area of 950 square feet, the new store at Linking Road will house brand’s newest collections from T-shirts and shirts to jeans.

Importantly, Wrangler retails in India through Ace Turtle, which acquired a long-term licence for the brand in India and select markets of South Asia.

Nitin Chhabra, Co-founder and CEO, Ace Turtle, said, “Wrangler has been witnessing strong footfalls at retail stores in high street areas also the denim stalwart is committed to expanding the offline retail

footprint by adding 100 more stores of Lee & Wrangler in the current fiscal."

Wrangler has launched the firstever collection produced using Indigood foam-dye technology in 2019, which is virtually eliminates the amount of water used in the conventional denim dyeing process and instead transfers dye onto yarn using foam.

Basically, the global product launch is part of Wrangler’s commitment to implement the most sustainable ways of dyeing denim throughout its supply chain.

Apna Organics’s grand seminar to reveal ways of efficient manufacturing

A H Monir

Apna Organics Pvt Ltd, leading textile chemical solution provider, holds its exclusive sustainable identity in the textile and apparel industry upholding its theme ‘A legacy of quality.’ The family-owned leading textile chemicals manufacturer – Apna Organics—upholds sustainability as their core, passing from one generation to another and ensuring a certain standard of quality is maintained in all product ranges.

Apna Organics is going to organize a grand seminar titled ‘manufacturing in an efficient & sustainable way’ on 27 August at the hotel Radisson Blu in Dhaka. In the seminar leading dignitaries from the different associations & ZDHC, veteran experts of the

textile industry will disseminate their knowledge on the efficient and sustainable ways of manufacturing.

Apna Organics has already passed around 55 years of glorious journey as textile chemical manufacturer and currently serving more than 24 countries of different continents with good reputation.

To enforce this sustainable credibility in the industry – ISO certified Apna Organics products hold certifications from GOTs VERSION 6.0 (more than 100 products), Ø ZDHC LEVEL 3 (more than 100 products), OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT (around 25 products), Higg Index (Higgs ID: 19621), SCIVERA, ToxFMD, AATCC, EIM, GreenScreen, REACH Certification by EU, Signatory Member UN Global Compact and many more sustainable initiatives.

Apna Organics will share a presentation on their glorious journey and will share their practical knowledge & experience on efficient & sustainable ways of manufacturing. The speakers of the program will also take the questionnaire from the audience on the manufacturing challenges and will respond to deal effectively.

Apna Organics are inviting their esteemed current & potential clients from the knit dyeing segments to join in the grand knowledge sharing seminar and request to contact with Sandeep Dave (+88 01759 492897) and Habib Monzur Hasan (+88 01911 322318) for invitation.

Figure: The US denim giant Wrangler has just opened 39 new flagship for the denim bigwig store in Mumbai.

Bangladesh locally can produce 50% of its synthetic fiber demand

BTT Interview

Bangladesh's textile and apparel industry has come a long way since its beginning and so has the primary textile sector. NZ Tex Group is one of the most diversified yarns and fashion fabric manufacturers across both Non-Denim & Denim category located in Bangladesh- started its visionary journey since 1982. Over the years of development, it has evolved rapidly to compete as one of the most advanced groups of companies in the textile industry.

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan, Managing Director, NZ Tex Group has been at the helm of this leading Group. His visionary leadership has been legendary in Bangladesh’s primary textile sector. He is also the Managing Director, NZ Textile Ltd.; Chairman, NZ DY Flax Spinning, NZ Fabric Ltd., NZ Denim Ltd. and Director of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA).

Recently, Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan shared his in-depth views of NZ Tex Group and the country’s primary textile sector with Textile Today.

Textile Today: NZ Tex Group has a great contribution to Bangladesh’s primary textile sector. How do you evaluate the growth of the primary textile sector of Bangladesh? Is it on the right track?

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan: Primary textile sector in Bangladesh has

witnessed tremendous growth in the last 10 years. The sector is now capable of delivering most of the demand for knit, woven and denim fabrics. For example, 10 years back 70% of woven fabric had to be imported and at present, the import has come down to 50% - meaning local mills now can supply 50% of the woven fabric demand.

Having said that, Bangladesh’s garment backward linkage industry can supply 98% of cotton-made yarn. We have that capability and not to mention if the cotton yarn demand rises 10% annually – then we can also cater to that.

This progress in the spinning sectors’ overall capability was the outcome of good banking support, entrepreneurial resilience and gaining aptness in technical knowhow in manpower.

Despite all these milestones – the

We are indeed cotton based and importdependent – but if you see this sector have always adopted to the world’s most advanced technologies as soon as they hit the market. It shows our commitment to delivering the best quality yarn from this region.

primary textile sector has immense investment opportunities in manmade fiber (MMF) as globally it has a 70% market share.

At present, we have some challenges in producing manmade fiber like polyester, viscose, modal, Tencel, etc. Like in the case of importing manmade fiber–spinners need to pay bonds. If the textile millers get the right policy support like all the import duties being removed, then it will benefit primary textile mills in a very good way.

We spinners are moving towards that with new investments focusing on MMF. And in the next 4-5 years the country’s spinning sector is expected to grow by 50% and self-sufficiency in MMF manufacturing. Bangladesh is wellknown for cotton-made products but gaining capability in MMF will attract more high-end retailers and our growth will undoubtedly go up.

“

- Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan, Managing Director, NZ Tex Group

You see, there is one well known fact called fiber security. Which is not too much dependent on the type of fiber. For this instanceBangladesh; we are heavily reliant on cotton-made garments. And we are one of the top global cotton importers. Although we source cotton from diversified markets any global political crisis or natural calamity can put us in real trouble. Just like in COVID19 times, we perceived a global supply glitch. Thus, having the ability in diverse fiber bases is a timely requirement and MMF perfectly fits the bill.

Besides, countrys growth perspective of the primary textile sector – MMF-based fashion apparel is the right choice and shedding our identity as cottonbased fashion.

Textile Today: What are the current challenges of the primary textile sector? How can these challenges be overcome?

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan: In terms of challenges, the primary textile sector has two types of challenges, one is short-term and another is long-term.

To elaborate the short-term hurdle – is the present global energy crisis. A timely energy supply to the industry is critical for its success. As I have discussed

we import around 50000 tons of viscose fiber and 30000 to 40000 tons of viscose yarn annually. Setting up a viscose manufacturing plant- it will require around BDT 40 billion investment and textile sector needs is some policy support. BTMA sought govt. help in this regard to set up a structure –by which we will be able to cut import dependency and grow our value-addition.

- Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan

accordingly, then we can add more export value (around 40-50%) on the imported raw materials. The exports would turn the investment into earning precious foreign currency i.e., the US dollar. To grow the export market, continuous energy support is critical for the spinning industry and Bangladesh economy.

I will urge the stake holders in this sector to become cautious about using energy. Also, we have to ensure energy efficient textile and spinning industry.

At the same time if the govt. gives the primary textile sector priority

owners have come this far with our resilience and perseverance. Yes, we are indeed cotton based and import-dependent – but if you see this sector have always adopted to the world’s most advanced technologies as soon as they hit the market. It shows our commitment to delivering the best quality yarn from this region.

Having said that, in the last 8-10 years – we are moving towards MMF fiber like viscose and polyester. Going for man-made fiber needs a huge investment. To make MMF fiber we need to have knit, weaving, dyeing, printing, chemicals and garments capability, most importantly- order flow. So, all together it requires a mammoth investment, but we are getting there step-by-step.

For instance, in viscose, garment manufacturing capability with viscose is the result of the last 10 years of R&D and now we are producing them in bulk. Still, we do not have any viscose fiber producing plant in the country. In terms of value-addition, then having a whole backward linkage will ensure that 90% of USD will remain in the country, will increase fiber security and reduce the export-import gap.

At present, we import around

Photo (Captured): Amzad Hossain Monir, Head (Bus. Dev.), Textile Today covering the interview of Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan.

cut import dependency and grow our value-addition.

Already, some entrepreneurs are coming up with investments in MMF and here NZ Tex Group is working to set up a 100% polyester yarn and fabric-production facility in a company owned industrial park.

Textile Today: Please share with us the new ranges of yarn and fabric you are offering for the textile and apparel industry. As we know, you are the only producer of Flax/Linen yarn in Bangladesh. Could you please share the details of it?

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan: NZ Tex Group is driven by the motto of Innovation that adds value. We started our LINEN spinning plant namely- NZ DY Flax Spinning about 12 years ago. NZ Tex Group is the first and only Bangladeshi company to set up a Linen yarn manufacturing factory. The journey was not smooth, as banks were reluctant to invest in something new. We had to build up our workforce, buyers’ confidence from the scratch. Now it is worth sharing that- NZ is manufacturing world class European Linen yarns and fabrics, supplying both yarns and fabrics to renowned global high street retailers for their premium clothing racks. It is necessary to say that all our Flax/ Raw materials for Linen yarns come from verified European source only.

In terms sustainability and wearability of NZ Flax/Linen–the natural fiber which is grown sustainably in verified EU destinations and has unique comfort-feel to wear. Linen fabric demand has been growing over years and China is the market leader (80%) in growing linen fiber and manufacturing fabrics. Owing to China-US tensions, the western world is looking for an alternative sourcing country. The good news is that we are the only mill in Bangladesh, who are creating

100% linen and linen blended fabrics to cater customer demand.

Textile Today: Could you please update us on the NZ Denim? What is your observation regarding the Bangladesh denim industry? How can Bangladesh grab more market share though Bangladesh is already the top exporter to the USA & EU market?

“In terms sustainability and wearability of NZ Flax/Linen–the natural fiber which is grown sustainably in verified EU destinations and has unique comfort-feel to wear. Linen fabric demand has been growing over years and China is the market leader (80%) in growing linen fiber and manufacturing fabrics.

- Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan: NZ Denim Ltd started commercial journey over six years ago, having installed monthly production capacity to 2.5 million meters. Besides, we are getting great responses from the brands and clothing retailers from across the globe. As for the denim sector’s progress – let me elaborate on that. Denim is a heavily fashionoriented item and day by day its demand has multiplied globally –especially during the COVID times.

Having said that there is a gigantic scope of R&D in the denim industry – which consists of yarn, fabric, washing and garments. To grab more market share, all these segments need to be aligned parallelly. Over the years our industry entrepreneurs

have invested substantially in these areas that is why our denim industry is reaping its current export earning share.

Despite all the success, we mostly produce cotton yarn-based denim. And we still have to import polyester or polyester blend-based fabric to catch high-end orders. This means that if we can grow our capacity in high-end MMF-based denim fabric then we can at least add on 30%-40% to export value.

NZ Denim has a plan to move towards high-end MMF-based denim fabric as we always look to elevate ourselves.

Textile Today: How do you manage PIW (Post-Industrial Waste) to increase profitability and ensure sustainability?

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan: The whole world is moving towards sustainably made apparel products. At present we are producing recycled yarn to manage PIW (Post-Industrial Waste). Also, we are increasing our recycled yarn capacity to ensure sustainability.

In the future, we have a plan to make polyester-based recycled yarns. If we can make it happen, then it will be great deal in reducing post-industrial waste and supplying them at a reasonable price that will ultimately lead to make entire supply-chain sustainable and profitable.

- Al-Haj Md. Nuruzzaman Khan Chairman, NZ Tex Group

Contemporary status and forthcoming trend of Bangladesh leather industry

Shariful Islam Arvi

Leather products is one of the top three highest export earning sectors in Bangladesh after the RMG sector with around 60 local leather products companies. Recently the leather industry of Bangladesh has shown positive performance in exports. Exports of leather products from Bangladesh hit a record high last fiscal year with exports at $1,245 million.

The leather sector has always been considered as having a high potential for industrialization in Bangladesh. However, there are some challenges in Bangladesh's upcoming leather exports. Bangladesh's leather sector can enhance Bangladesh's export diversification strategy to reduce the country's over-dependence on the RMG sector. Facing the current challenges, Bangladesh is hopeful to be among the top ten leather exporters in the world.

Export performance of leather industry

In the last financial year, Bangladesh's leather exports increased by 32.30 percent to reach $1,245 million. Bangladesh's leather footwear exports, which represent about 60% of the total value, increased by 31.46% during the period, standing at $607 million compared to the same period of the previous fiscal year.

According to the EPB, exports of leather and leather products have been steadily increasing since FY 2012-13, with exports from the sector exceeding $1.12 billion in FY 2016-17 and the figure rising to over $1.23 billion. Although there was an upward trend in leather exports, it declined after the forced removal of Hazaribagh's tannery to Savar. However, this year Bangladesh's leather exports have increased in all sectors.

Export of leather products reached $273.18 million against the strategic target of $231.90 million. Finished Leather generated $131.59 million, higher than the established target of $107.89 million. Exports of other footwear increased by 34.92% during the current fiscal year, adding up to $374.9 million above the strategic target set of $330.69 million.

Challenges in the leather sector of Bangladesh

The export performance in the last financial year has shown the significant potential of Bangladesh's export sector. However, so far the leather industry occupies a modest position in the economy of Bangladesh, less than its true potential. Challenges and limitations of the leather industry are related to raw material, technical, financial, environmental, and marketing.

Lack of environmental certification

The leather industry consumes resources and produces toxic and dangerous pollutants for the environment. The local standard of water use for washing one tonne of rawhide is 30,000 liters and the international standard is 25,000 liters. But Bangladeshi tanners use 65,000 liters of groundwater to wash one tonne of rawhide, the highest water consumption worldwide.

The Leather Working Group (LWG) seeks to

Innovation in Textile Chemicals for a Sustainable society

bring about positive change in the global leather industry and provide environmental certification to the industry. Buyers of big brands prefer their products with this environmental certification. Leather entrepreneurs said that due to the lack of certificates, the country's exports have now become China-centric. Even, Vietnam is ahead of Bangladesh in leather exports with 17 LWG factories.

There are over 139, 103, and 68 LWG factories in India, China, and Italy. So far, only three companies have received this certificate in Bangladesh those are Apex Footwear Limited, ABC Leather, and Riff Leather Limited.

The LWG certification is important to convince foreign markets. Savar Tannery Industrial Estate (STIE) and tanners are still far from meeting the essential LWG certification requirements. The central sewage treatment plant at STIE is yet to be fully commissioned to international standards, although construction on the project has begun and is expected to be completed by 2017.

According to the evaluation protocol, LWG evaluates the tanneries are on 28 sections. These topics include environment, traceability, social responsibility, health and safety, and chemical management in three main segments.

There are a total of 1,300 points to get the LWG certification. LWG offers three types of certification based on these points. According to the LWG, audited certificates are awarded to factories for achieving 85% marks for Gold certificate, 75% for Silver and above marks 65% marks for Bronze. Prices are getting lower Elite brands in the EU and US sell between $150 and $1,000 per pair of leather shoes. However, they do not sell products that pollute the environment. In addition, without certification, it is difficult to

Footwear

export increased by

get foreign buyers and high prices for products. Exporters are then forced to sell to the Chinese at lower prices.

Foreigners are now buying Bangladeshi leather products at lower prices due to less compliance. Exporters say they are now exporting $1 to $1.1 per square foot of finished leather but the price for compliance factories is $1.3 to $1.4 depending on buyers.

Bangladesh can get a 50-60 percent higher price with more LWG certification. According to traders and exporters, these environmental issues are holding back Bangladesh's leather exports to Europe and the US, and the potential of $5 to 10 billion a year in revenue.

Shortage of credit to buy raw hides

Among the country's major export sectors, only leather and jute products receive their entire supply of raw materials from local sources. Fifty percent of the industry's rawhide comes during Eid-ul-Azha. This year's Eid-ul-Azha tanneries in Bangladesh collected half a million pieces of rawhide. Manufacturers have to buy this huge raw material within this single period, otherwise, the price went up later.

This year, it takes 1000 to 1500 crores to buy raw animal skins during Eid al-Adha. As far as manufacturers say, banks have sanctioned loans of around TK 200-250 crore so far. The exporters appealed to the government to help with loans to procure these rawhides.

Critical Evaluation Good Practice Social Responsibility

Crucial elements to assess if a tannery is operating in a safe & responsible manner.

Contain 14 sections which mirroring the scope of the LWG Audit.

Additional elements that show a tanner is performing well & thinking about how to improve their performance.

Contain 5 sections.

Figure 3: Parts of the assessment of LWG certifications.

(NPL) of the leather sector is now TK 1541 crore. If exports continue to grow like current financial year, producers can overcome this crisis.

Recent load shedding

Bangladesh's leather industry is taking another hit due to power outages. In recent times, there is load shedding of two to two and a half hours per day, which is a huge loss for the industry. According to tannery manufacturers, one-time load shedding damages 1,000 to 2,000 pieces or 40,000-45,000 square feet of leather at the dyeing stage.

The use of generators has increased industrial costs by 10-15%. Bangladesh Tanners Association General Secretary Md Sakhwat Ullah urged the government to ensure an uninterrupted power supply to tanneries for the next three months so that they can process all the leather collected during Eid-ul-Azha. Exporters need to produce value-added products instead of bulk. Also, Bangladesh needs to get more LWS certifications to get fair prices from foreign market. The Department of Environment will issue environmental clearance based on tannery performance as soon as possible as ensuring accreditation is one of the primary requirements for

Focused on social and labour elements to give guidance on additional areas.

Contain 9 sections.

Figure 4: Sufferings of Bangladesh's leather industry.

obtaining LWG certification. Bangladesh's leather industry wants to lower the limit of local value addition of leather products to 20 percent as a condition for receiving export incentives.

Upcoming opportunities

Bangladesh leather is internationally popular for its high-quality fine grain leather, uniform fiber structure, smooth feel, and natural texture. According to a report by Grand View Research, the leather goods market size is valued at USD 407.92 billion in 2021 and is expected to reach USD 624.08 billion by 2028. Now the main production hubs of this sector are China, Vietnam, Thailand and Italy but due to compliance issues, they have to export manufactured leather products below fair value. However, Bangladesh's leather industry has the potential to participate in the global value chain, enter a new market and meet growing domestic demand. The country also exports leather products to various countries.

Bangladesh exports 10 percent of global leather demand. The United States, European Union, and Japan are the major markets for the leather industry in Bangladesh. Italy, Spain and Hong Kong are the uprising markets for leather and leather products of Bangladesh. According to industry stakeholders, export targets can be achieved with policy support to diversify the leather industry.

Vision of $10-12 billion exports by 2030

Bangladesh's government is ambitious to increase its export earnings from leather and leather products by 2030. The Commerce Ministry set up a ten-year vision plan, which includes a target to increase the leather sector's export earnings from $1 billion to $10-12 billion by 2030. The Ministry of Commerce has launched a scheme titled 'Export Competitiveness for Jobs (EC4J)' to help increase the country's export earnings from leather and leather products, light engineering, footwear and plastics sectors.

Bangladesh Tanners Association President Shaheen Ahmed said, "With more compliance factories, it is possible to achieve the target set by the government.”

RMG exporters fear negative exports growth as orders continues to decline

Textile Today Report

Work order inflows for the country’s apparel exporters witnessed slight gain by 3.33% raising fear among the manufacturer to see negative growth in the coming month.

According to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Utilization Declaration (UD) permission taken by the exporters rose by 3.33% to 14,083 during the January-June period of 2022, which were 13,628 in the same period a year ago.

UD is a permission given to an exporter to import raw materials to execute work orders placed by an importer and it indicates flows of work orders. Among the six month it posted positive growth only in January by 150.57% to 3037 as it recovered from Covid-19 pandemic.

However, the issuance of UD by the BGMEA declined by 12.77% to 2178 in June, which was 2497 in the same period of last year. It declined by 15.80% to 1907 in May, followed by 9% to 2452 in April, 11.60% to 2269 in March, and 6.27% to 2240 in February. Continuous decline in the last five month made the exporters fearsome and they fear negative growth in the upcoming months.

“With the recent work orders trend, we are expecting negative growth in the coming months. The work orders decline because of lower demands caused by soaring inflation in European and US markets mostly,” Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) executive president Mohammad Hatem said.

Ongoing Russia-Ukraine war created the economic crisis that hit the supply chain of export oriented industries, while the invasion pushed the prices of good grains and fuel. These caused high inflation, said the business leader. It is alarming for the country’s export earnings, which may put a bar to attain the government target of $47 billion from the sector, said Hatem.

Inflation in the EU rose 8.6% in June, while the consumer price index rose by 9.1% in the US, where about 85 percent of apparel products are exported.

As an export led growth economy, Bangladesh cannot escape the impacts of the global economic crisis. High inflation in the EU and US is a big concern for Bangladesh, Professor Mustafizur Rahman, distinguished fellow at Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) said.

Figure : Trend of UD permission taken by the exporter in the last six months.

To avert the impact of the crisis, Bangladesh has to focus on non-traditional markets most in South Asia and East Asian markets, said the economist. On the other hand, intra RMG diversification is the key to remain safe amid the crisis, said Rahman. Meanwhile, exporters called for more policy support to overcome the crisis and retain the export growth. In FY22, export earnings from readymade garments rose by 35.47 per cent to $42.61 billion year-on-year.

“In the current budget the government increased tax at source to 1% from 0.5%, which is a burden for exporters right now amid the crisis” said BGMEA vice president Shahidullah Azim. In the given context, the government should offer new incentives for the sector and reduce the source tax to 0.5% for FY23, he added.

Bangladesh’s apparel export to US hits record of $9 billion in FY22

Textile Today Report

Bangladesh’s apparel shipment to the United States of America (USA) recorded a robust growth of 51.57% to $9 billion, the highest ever, in the just-concluded fiscal year, thanks to buyers’ confidence in exporters.

Bangladesh earned $10.41 billion in FY22, which was $6.97 billion posted in FY21.

Bangladesh earned $52 billion through exports while posting a 34.38 percent growth in FY22, compared to the $38.75 billion in FY21.

Economists and industry people credited the increasing demand for consumer goods, mostly clothing items, and increased prices of goods for the robust export growth. According to Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) research, prices of per unit apparel goods exported to the US market grew by 6.5%.

The export earnings will continue to go up in the coming months as the factories currently have adequate work orders, and the buyers are placing more for the upcoming seasons, he added.

Meanwhile, economists opined that political unrest in Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar helped to get better work orders as they prefer Bangladesh to source goods.

“As the Covid-19 pandemic situation improved in US I, the demands for clothing products rose significantly. On the other hand, the US buyers’ confidence in our competitors such as Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar eroded due to political unrest,” Dr. Zahid Hussain former lead economist of World Bank, Bangladesh told Textile Today.

How to sustain the growth

The sharp growth in export is a good sign for Bangladesh as the country has a big market, which needs to penetrate to reach Bangladesh’s export target.

According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in FY22 Bangladesh earned over $9 billion exporting clothing items, which was 51.57% higher compared to $5.95 billion in FY21.

Women’s products fetched $5.89 billion, up by 51.58%, which was $ 3.88 billion in the same period a year ago.

Knitwear products earned $3.12 billion posting a 51.56 % growth compared to $2.06 billion last year.

Bangladesh exported home textile goods worth $311 million, followed by caps worth $281 million.

Meanwhile, Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data showed that

“Bangladesh’s exports to the US market stood at $10.41 billion, where the apparel sector contributed $9 billion. This is because of timely delivery of goods amid the pandemic, which boosted investors’ confidence and they placed more work orders,” said Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Faruque Hassan.

On top of that, through several visits and meeting with US buyers last year as part of our apparel diplomacy to improve the buyermanufacturer relation, which helped a lot to get their attention, said the business leader.

In addition to these, prices and the number of goods exported to the US have gone up. As a result, export earnings rose sharply, he added.

“As the single largest export destination, the US market means a lot and it is a good sign that its apparel exports stood at $9 billion,” said Prof Mustafizur Rahman, distinguished fellow at the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD).

For making the growth a sustainable one, Bangladesh has to focus on increasing retention of earnings and local value addition, said Rahman.

Demand for non-cotton goods in the US market is increasing sharply and exporters should concentrate on grabbing this item while moving towards more value-added goods, said the economist. He also suggested enhancing productivity and product diversification.

Meanwhile, the exporters also called for the continuation of existing policy support to retain the export earnings. They also urged the government to keep the tax at source at 0.50% in the current fiscal to help it grow further.

Figure: Economists and industry people credited the increasing demand for consumer goods, mostly clothing items, and increased prices of goods for the robust export growth.

Australia to continue duty-free market access for Bangladesh after LDC graduation

Australia will continue to provide Bangladesh with duty-free access in its market after the country’s graduation from the LDC category. High Commissioner of Australia to Bangladesh Jeremy Bruer informed BGMEA President Faruque Hassan about the Australian government’s decision when he paid a courtesy call on the envoy at the High Commission in Dhaka on July 17.

BGMEA First Vice President Syed Nazrul Islam; Vice President Miran Ali; Directors Asif Ashraf; Barrister Vidiya Amrit Khan and Chair of BGMEA Standing Committee on Foreign Mission Cell Shams Mahmud accompanied the President during the visit.

Duncan McCullough, Second

Secretary (Commercial and Economic Diplomacy) at the Australian High Commission in Dhaka was also present on the occasion.

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan hailed the Australian government’s decision of continuing duty-free market access for Bangladesh, saying that it would support Bangladesh in maintaining the momentum of its economic growth after the LDC graduation. He hoped that the friendly support of Australian for the development of Bangladesh would continue in the coming years.

Different issues, especially potential areas of expanding trade and investment between Australia and Bangladesh were discussed at

the meeting.

They opined that huge opportunities lie ahead of both countries in reaping mutual trade benefits by further deepening collaboration and cooperation.

The BGMEA leaders expressed Bangladesh’s interest in importing more cotton and wool from Australia to meet the growing demand of the RMG and textile industry.

They sought cooperation of Australia in developing knowledge and skills of the students of BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT) in textile, apparel, fashion, design and business through collaboration with leading Australian universities and fashion institutes.

“ We offer maximum value to our customers with innovative products”

BTT Interview

Dovoy has four business units i.e., Dovoy Industrial Solutions™, Dovoy Animal Health™, Dovoy Food Ingredients™ and Dovoy Grain Processing™. Although all the four verticals of Dovoy are doing well in the market and are coming out to be the market leaders, however, Dovoy Industrial Solutions™ is the most important vertical of Dovoy, where they cater solutions to various industries like textile processing, paper and pulp processing, and leather processing. Their core strength has always been manufacturing and they have worked towards cutting the value chain through innovative chemistry and a direct-to-customer approach.

Amit Kaushik (BTech in Textile Chemistry), Director of Dovoy has been serving the textile & apparel industry more than eighteen (18) years. Having worked with various multinationals he is leading the brand building of Dovoy since its inception in 2014. Within a short span, Dovoy transformed from being a ‘Job Worker’ to establishing itself as a leading brand in the Enzyme and auxiliary arena.

Sahil Hans (BTech in Textile Science & Engineering), Business Development Manager (Exports), has been working at Dovoy for more than six (6) years. He is responsible to work with almost all the reputed textile mills of North

& East India, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladesh. As Bangladesh is one of the key important markets for Dovoy, he visits Bangladesh’s textile factories on a regular basis and has fantastic knowledge about the Bangladesh market.

Recently Amit Kaushik and Sahil Hans have discoursed on current global business status of Dovoy, present production and R&D facilities, their unique selling proposition, their plan regarding Bangladesh market.

Textile Today: What is the current global business status of Dovoy in the field of textile auxiliaries and enzyme markets?

Amit Kaushik: We have been organically growing since our inception as a brand “Dovoy.” Interestingly, we have been growing with a CAGR of 28% since 2014, even in the pandemic year we managed to put decent growth across markets and segments. The acceptance of our products in various markets has been better than expected. Our revenue has been evenly distributed across major product categories we cater to with Enzymes leading at 40% share. We aim to have a significant market share in Enzymes in South Asia by 2025.

Textile Today: Kindly share with us the present production and R&D

Amit Kaushik, Director of Dovoy Industrial Solutions™

facilities of Dovoy.

Amit Kaushik: With headquarters in Singapore, we have our main production facilities in China while blending and formulation facilities in India, catering to our customers across the globe. We have recently expanded our India office in Gurugram where we have set up our Textile Application Lab and Enzyme Research & QA Lab run by a team of high caliber Biotechnologists. Maintaining quality consistency in enzymes is always a challenge and even more challenging is evaluating the efficacy of the manufactured product. To counter this our Enzyme QA lab comes to the rescue, here we conduct assay tests for every batch before goods are ready to be shipped to the customers. We now plan to start our Bakery application Lab and implement Phytase Recovery testing for the Animal Health Division in the current Fiscal Year.

Textile Today: Share with us a few innovative and sustainable product ranges that you are offering for the textile and apparel industries.

Amit Kaushik: Enzymes are our core business and most focused product range. If we take the case of a very generic product like cellulase enzyme where not much innovation was possible, our R&D came up with an innovative idea in 2018 with our product Dovoy-Zyme PSL. This product is of extremely high concentration, which is impossible to handle in a liquid state, but we successfully produced the same in powder form which has 100% solubility in water with no sedimentation of fillers. This enabled us to drastically lower the cost of biopolishing and not only that, it is highly robust to handle climate and ambient temperature shocks, it also helps our customers to resolve the issues of inventory load and shipping costs.

Dovoy-Zyme Super 4 is another product that exhibits an

unthinkable level of sustainability and cost benefits, this is a single all-in-one product that works as a desizing, bio-polishing, pumice stone replacement, anti-back staining agent and elastane protection agent. This “One Bath – One Process” product can reduce carbon footprint along with process time, water, and chemicals inventory. It performs the entire denim washing operations in a single step, against conventional four products and a minimum 3-5 bath operation.

Dovoy-Zyme Scour 60 is another innovative product that brings a revolution to the textile industry. Scour 60 is a neutral pectate lyase enzyme that helps our customers to eliminate caustic and silicate from pretreatment baths that reduces BOD and COD up to certain levels. It also renders a soft handle to the fabric along with a significant reduction in weight loss.

Textile Today: What’s your products’ unique selling proposition (USP)? How can your products be a better alternative for Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufacturers?

Amit Kaushik: Innovation and value addition pave our success in Bangladesh, we always aim to provide maximum value to our customers. We are dealing with products that are highly costeffective in terms of overall value as we are providing concentrated products that help our customers to overcome challenges like everincreasing transportation costs, inventory management, and bond issues. As there is a growing trend toward sustainability by brands and buyers, we are pleased to share that our products are compliant with GOTS, ZDHC Level-3, Reach, and Oeko-tex and complied with the RSL and MSRL of all reputed brands.

Textile Today: How do you see the Bangladesh market? What challenges and scopes do you see in the market? What is your plan to win the market?

Sahil Hans: It is a well-known fact that Bangladesh is the fastestgrowing market for textiles. Bangladesh is a hub for quality textile products at the most competitive prices which is in tandem with our core value ‘interalia’ providing the best quality products at the most competitive prices. We always aim to deliver maximum value to our customers by providing innovative products. Usually, sustainable solutions have always been found to be too expensive as compared to conventional products and processes. Our intent has always been to provide sustainable products and use innovative solutions to minimize their ecological impacts, this strategy has so far worked well and helped us win the markets.

Rising costs of raw materials and buyers' push towards sustainability is a big challenge that the textile processing industry has been facing not only in Bangladesh but across the globe. Our approach to understanding the specific market needs and delivering accordingly is the way forward. We want to be seen as a significant player in the Bangladesh textile industry, and in pursuit of this objective, we are planning to set up an application laboratory in Bangladesh by the next fiscal year. We believe that this will be highly beneficial in providing technical services to our valued customers.

Sahil Hans, Bus. Dev. Manager (Exports), Dovoy Industrial Solutions™

SGS has the expertise to help manufacturers and suppliers of FCM achieve compliance with markets around the globe. Our technical experts have extensive experience of testing materials and articles for many markets. We offer the full range of FCM testing, including migration tests, along with expert advice on emerging regulations, compliance issues and documentation review. Our experience can ensure your products meet the appropriate te rritorial regulations for food contact materials and help pave the way for compliance. Food Contact Materials (FCM) services from SGS ensure compliance with requirements for sale and distribution in global markets.

Food contact materials (FCM) are materials and articles intended to come into contact with food. FCM products and materials include:

FCM have the potential to adversely alter the taste, odor and/or color of foods. There is also the risk that hazardous constituents such as heavy metals and additives may migrate into the food from the FCM, thereby endangering human health. Legislation governing the safety of FCM is enforced around the world. In recent years, more rigorous restrictions have been promulgated, with stricter mechanisms being established by major trading nations to eliminate hidden dangers and strengthen

We are working towards achieving global standard in safety and compliance

Increasing lab to bulk right-firsttime (RFT)% by methodical lab to bulk recipe development

Ibrahim Khalil (Project Executive), Management Trainee, Creative Wash Limited (Hameem Group) Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed (Industry Expert), Head of Technical Support, Taiwan Persotex Corporation Md. Shamsul Hoque (industry Supervisor), General Manager, Fatullah Dyeing & Calendering Mills Ltd.

Abstract

The aim of this study focuses on achieving targeted result from lab to bulk in the first go. This means at every colouring the targeted shade should be achieved the very first time, thus not requiring re-dyeing or re-correcting shade by adding dyes/ chemicals.

Usually, light shade gets lighter and dark shade gets darker in bulk production following the lab recipe. From the lighter or darker shade to desired shade it takes multiple number of adjustments. To avoid this adjustment, we need a lab recipe and a SOP which will get us the right shade in first time.

Keywords

RFT; Reactive dyes; Lab to bulk; Liquor to material ratio

Introduction

This Project is basically focused on a standard operating procedure (SOP) for 100% cotton knit dye to modify the lab recipe for light and dark shade. Suitable standard operating procedures need to select or develop for sustainable and efficient production in the industry. In this project, our developed process has been run for experiment and the material sample developed from the process has been tested. And color shade variation for the newly developed process and the conventional process have been compared. Besides this, color fastness of the samples for these two processes has also been measured and compared. The newly developed process shows better or equal results than the conventional process practiced at the associated factory in terms of the lab to bulk color shade variation and color fastness

The present situation of dying process in Knit sector is well established & successful. But there are new challenges arising everyday which are trying to unsettle this progress. The process can be improved further if some new technologies are introduced under precise condition making sure that the quality of production is improved. The knit dyeing process

of cotton is almost entirely using Reactive Dyes & Exhaust methods, which are still undoubtedly successful.

Right-first-time shade means to match the shade of dyed fabric with the required shade at first time without facing minimum dyeing faults. In other word RFT shade is matching the dyed fabric shade with required without topping and re- dyeing.

Experimental:

Material: 100% cotton knitted fabric with GSM 160 g/ m2 was used for sample dyeing. We calculated for 5 gm knitted fabric.

Dyes and Chemical:

Dyes and Chemical Light Shade Medium Shade Dark Shade

Reactive yellow 3RS .02% 1% 1.5%

Reactive Red 3BS .03% .3% .5%

Reactive Black B .05% .5% 4% Glauber’s Salt 20 g/l 45 g/l 80 g/l Soda ash 6 g/l 12 g/l 20 g/l Caustic 2 g/l Soaping agent 2 g/l 2 g/l 2 g/l Acetic Acid .5 g/l .5 g/l .5 g/l

Material: Liquor = 1:6 Temperature =60°C

Procedure

Laboratory sample dyeing procedure:

Measuring sample for knit dyeing.

Making dyeing recipe and calculating

Pipetting the dyes and chemicals (salt, soda) accurately

Closing the dyeing pots and shake continuously

Inserting the sample pot into dyeing machine cabinet 6. Running the Machine at 60° C for 60 Minutes 7. Cold washing the sample

Increasing lab to bulk right-first-time (RFT)% by methodical lab to bulk recipe development Bangladesh’s LEED certified green factory jumps to 165

HAMS Group inaugurates new high efficient knitting & dyeing capacity

New Investment Experts

Getting ready for circular fashion

Views

Solar EPC to organize conference showcasing complete rooftop solar solutions

Huawei Technologies intends to support RMG industry in renewable energy

Green Energy New Investment New Investment

Ananta Group takes $13.8mn Proparco loan to expand sweater manufacturing capacity

Govt. allowing 28 firms to invest $1.3 bn in 3 economic zones

8. Acid washing the sample (for neutralization)

9. Taking the wash off chemical into the Dyeing Pot

10. Putting the sample on it

11. Starting the washing machine to run at 90°C for 20 minutes

12. Cold washing the sample

13. Starting the Dryer machine to dry the sample at 130’c for 160 seconds

14. Ironing the sample.

15. Matching the sample with provided swatch

Increasing the lab to bulk reproducibility

Assuming the above factors are well controlled, actual lab practice is another factor which can seriously impact RFT and lab to bulk reproducibility. Quite often, lab dyeing is carried out on prebleached, dry fabric, which can lead to immediate errors, both from a liquor ratio and from a dye concentration point of view.

In bulk practice, we may start with grey fabric, which can contain up to 10% impurities. After pretreatment, a 100 kg batch can actually weight as little as 90 kg.

However, everything is calculated for 100 kg –dye, salt, alkali, etc. If we start in the lab with dry prebleached fabric and base all calculations on this, we have immediate errors – exacerbated if impurity level is high.

When bulk produced according to the lab recipe, the

light color becomes lighter and dark color becomes darker shade.

Ideal lab practice is to take customer's grey fabric and cut into, say, 5 gm portions; then bleach and dry (check weight to confirm amount of impurities – if say 4.8 gm, you know that fabric contains 4% oil, waxes etc.) and then carry out the lab dyeing on this fabric assuming the original weight of 5 gm.

In this project, different weights of sample fabric is taken. Assuming that the fabric sent to the lab has some processing like scouring, bleaching and enzymes so the weight of the fabric is slightly reduced. So, we will take different sample fabric weights of light, medium and dark shades due to lab to bulk problem. The weight is calculated based on the previous data, factory operating practice and experience. It might be different for different factories. The project was conducted in Fatullah Dyeing & Calendering Mills Ltd.

Conventional sample wt. VS New developed sample wt.

New developed sample wt. Convertional sample wt.

6

5

4

3

2

4.8 4.8 4.8 4.8 4.6 5.25

1

0

Dark Medium Light

Light Yellow 3RS = 0.5%

Red 3BS= 0.3%

Orange 2R = .02%

4.8 gm

Increase volume percentage =5.25/4.8*100% =109.375%

Yellow 3RS = (.5*109.4%) =0.547%

Red 3BS = (.3*109.375%) =.328% Orange 2R = (.2*109.375%) =0.0218%

5.25gm

Medium Reactive Yellow 3RS =.5%

Reactive Red 3BS =2%

Reactive Black B =.5%

Dark Reactive Yellow 3RS =2%

Reactive Red 3BS =1%

Reactive Black B = 5%

4.8 gm

Increase volume percentage =4.8/4.8*100% =100%

4.8 gm

Decrease volume percentage =4.6/4.8*100% =95.83%

Yellow 3RS=.5% Red 3BS =2% Black B =.5%

Yellow 3RS = (2*95.83%) =1.91% Red 3BS = (1*95.83%) =0.905%

4.8gm

4.6 gm

Shades Conventional process dyes Conventional process sample weight

Increase/ Decrease percentage

Proposed process dyes Proposed Process sample weight

It is mandatory to consider the following factors before start lab dip dyeing:

• Exhaustion and fixation rate of dyes should be same or similar while selecting dyes.

• Fabric must be same of both lab and dyeing (yarn lot, yarn count, fabric G.S.M, separate Scouring).

• The fabric must be RFD before start dyeing.

• Accurate weight in calculation of fabric due to bleached fabric in lab and grey fabric in bulk.

• Dyeing process should be same (usually All in one dyeing method in lab, progressive method and isothermal method in bulk).

• Should use the same chemicals in both lab and bulk (such as sequestering agent, levelling agent, fixing agent, softener etc.).

• Fabric is kept 60 minutes in dye solution in lab, but in bulk after 2.30-3.0 minutes fabric touches dyes solution once. Where say for example 2.0-2.15

Analysis

9059/20

761/21

Light Yellow MG=0.176% Red MG=0.054% Blue MG=0.098%

Medium Yellow MG =0.054% Orange 2RL= 1.1%

1270/21 Dark Yellow 3RS = 0.83 % Red 3BS = 1.04 % Black B =2 %

minutes in solution and rest seconds is without touches dye solution.

• Dyes, chemical and auxiliaries must be of same lot.

• The Lab Dips must be matched under at least 2 Light Sources.

Conclusion

It's evident that RFT has huge importance for quality production as everyone got time limitation. A number of points required to be checked and ensured for the correct production with right quality. Consequently, dye house water quality must be ensured for coloring product by testing water hardness, pH etc. Another key purpose has got to be unbroken in mind for obtaining RFT result that right method has to be followed for right production selecting right material in right time. A little deviation from the particular method will build an enormous distinction in quality. Therefore every task must be followed to get desired result.

Yellow MG (+10%) =0.193% Red MG (+16%) =0.062% Blue MG (+13%) =0.118%

Yellow MG =0.054% Orange 2RL= 1.1%

Yellow 3RS (-3%) =0.8% Red 3BS (-4%) =0.998% Black B (- 4%) =1.92%

Yellow MG=0.193 Red MG=0.6% Blue MG=0.108%

Yellow MG =0.054% Orange 2RL= 1.1%

Yellow 3RS=0.795% Red 3BS =0.997% Black B =1.92%

Bangladesh collaborates with Egypt to derive mutual trade benefits

Textile Today Report

Ambassador of Egypt to Bangladesh Haytham Ghobashy paid a courtesy call on BGMEA President Faruque Hassan at the latter’s office in Gulshan, Dhaka on 14 July.

BGMEA Directors Asif Ashraf; Barrister Vidiya Amrit Khan, former BGMEA Director Imrul Anwar Liton and Priti Ali of the Egypt Embassy were also present on the occasion.

They had discussions about possible areas of expanding trade between Bangladesh and Egypt and how both countries can collaborate in a meaningful way to boost bilateral trade.

They talked about how Bangladesh could import more raw cotton from Egypt to meet the growing demand

of its RMG and textile industry.

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said Bangladesh and Egypt have substantial scope to further engage in trade and investment and derive mutual benefits.

And highlighted the key features and strengths of Bangladesh as a preferred place for investment, especially its mega projects for the development of infrastructure which will accelerate the country’s economic growth.

Faruque Hassan urged the envoy to encourage Egyptian businessmen to make investments in the potential sectors including high value-added and non-cotton textiles in Bangladesh.

The Ambassador requested BGMEA to look into the possibility of setting up joint ventures in the RMG and textiles industry in Egypt.

He expressed high optimism about strengthening further the bilateral ties on issues related to mutual interests in both countries.

Reference No. Shade Recipe from the lab Final Recipe for the bulk production

Calculated Recipe for Lab (Developed from project decision)

Figure: BGMEA Directors Asif Ashraf; Barrister Vidiya Amrit Khan, former BGMEA Director Imrul Anwar Liton and Priti Ali of the Egypt Embassy were also present on the occasion.

Bangladesh’s LEED certified green factory jumps to 165

Bangladesh green factory revolution reached a landmark of 50 Platinum and 101 LEED Gold

Bangladesh’s green factory revolution reached a landmark 50 LEED Platinum and 101 LEED Gold Certification by the United States Green Building Council (USGBC).

In the newest addition, Habitus Fashion Ltd. of Fortis Group located in Gozariapara, Dhaka achieved LEED Platinum Certification by earning 91 Points. While Faiza Industries Ltd. of Florence Group located in Gazipur achieved Gold Certification by earning 64 Points.

Habitus Fashion Ltd. achieved LEED green certification by implementing practical and measurable strategies and solutions to achieve high performance in location and transportation, sustainable site development, water efficiency, energy and atmosphere, materials and resources, indoor environmental quality and innovation.

Green building in Bangladesh’s

perspective has touched an unparalleled height as the country has the highest number of LEED green garment factories – 165 factories – With 50 platinum-rated, 101 gold-rated, 10 silver-rated and 4 LEED Certified. LEED Certified Green buildings are becoming a norm in Bangladesh as many builders are opting to construct energy-efficient, low-maintenance buildings.

This concept unexceptionally complements modern architectural designs by allowing ample energy savings and adequate natural light. In addition, it is high time that Bangladesh implements this concept in its construction industry.

Solar EPC to organize conference showcasing complete rooftop solar solutions

Solar EPC Event

Solar EPC Development Ltd. (SEPC) – leading and fastest-growing solar power project developer, EPC contractor, and consultancy firm – will showcase rooftop solar solutions for commercial and industries in a day-long expo and conference titled "Sustainable and Cost-effective Energy Solution" on 03 September 2022 at Radisson Blu Water Garden Hotel, Dhaka.

The Government of Bangladesh (GOB) has set the target of generating 10% of electricity from renewable energy sources by 2030, equivalent to 4100 MW. As per the latest data from the Sustainable and Renewable Energy Development Authority (SREDA) the country's renewable energy installed capacity is 893.21 MWp, whereas rooftop solar is 83.90 MWp. In addition, Bangladesh’s textile and apparel factories alone have around 12.80 million square meters of rooftop space that have the potential to generate at least 350 MW of electricity.

In regards to the above facts, the prime focus of the expo and conference will be showcasing rooftop solar solutions for the textile, garments and other exportoriented industries.

Around 150 participants from the leading textile, garments, knitting and dyeing, spinning, RMG accessories and packaging, pharmaceutical industries and other export-oriented industries of Bangladesh will visit the expo.

Solar EPC Development Ltd. will showcase its products, solutions and services to the participants, followed by a case study presentation, Q&A session and open discussion.

The expo and conference will highlight:

• Rooftop PV solution

• Turnkey EPC

• Business models

• Project compliance

• Project management

• Finance advisory

• O&M

• Product display

• Case study

The event will be organized by SEPC in association with Huwaei, Hengtong Group, Textile Today, Canadian Solar and HSBC.

We are working towards achieving global standard in safety and compliance

BTT Interview

Compliance BD Limited (CBD) is a leading name in Bangladesh’s industrial compliance safety. For over 10 years Compliance BD Ltd. has been working phenomenally with fire safety solutions, HVAC solutions, MEP project, solar, and renewable energy solutions. Compliance BD has successfully completed several fire safety and MEP projects in Readymade Garment (RMG), textile, pharmaceuticals, spinning, printing, and power industries.

Bangladesh’s textile and RMG industries are concerned about safety and compliance since the incidents like Rana Plaza, Tazreen Fashion. Compliance BD deserves of praise for their excellent administration and execution of fire safety and security initiatives throughout the country. Their

integration of fire detection and alarm system with the fire hydrant equipment provides an inclusive solution to the cautionary industries.

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman, Managing Director, Compliance BD Ltd. has been steering Compliance BD Ltd. with his unique leadership. TextileToday met Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman to understand overall compliance status of Bangladesh’s garments industry and the strengths of Compliance BD Ltd to ensure industrial safety and compliance.

Textile Today: How do you evaluate the overall compliance in Bangladesh’s garments industry? Is the industry capable to comply with the international standard?

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman: The way the global scenario is transforming and reshaping – I

think there is no alternative of overall compliance in Bangladesh’s textile and readymade garment (RMG) industry. The most positive aspect is that our industries and industrialists are willing and they are implementing overall compliance and especially the fire safety compliance. Entrepreneurs are not requesting us only for a fire safety – rather they requesting Compliance BD Ltd. to implement overall compliance system – so that the lives of the workers can be saved, workplace safety can be ensured and their investments can remain safe.

I will say this is the overall mindset transformation of our entrepreneurs. So, to answer of the question is yes, the industry is willing and working to attain the capability to comply with the

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman, Managing Director, Compliance BD Ltd.

international standard.

Textile Today: Since Rana Plaza incident to now, what kind of challenges has the textile and apparel industry been facing to cope with the international compliance standard?

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman: Bangladesh’s textile and RMG industries have been raising more concerns about safety and compliance since the incident. The ACCORD, ALLIANCE and RSC have guided the industry towards compliance standard. In the past entrepreneurs were not familiar with NFPA guidelines, however, at present, all the projects we are implementing is according to the NFPA guidelines.

Having said that we need to work continuously to achieve the international compliance standard.

Textile Today: How do you position Compliance BD Ltd. regarding ensuring safety in the industry? How is it better than other fire safety service providers?

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman: The most important aspect of Compliance BD Ltd. is that we provide technical solutions instead of only selling our products.

A lot of times, our customers rush into buy fire safety products. But we do not give priority to this type of queries, instead I tell the customer to sit with my qualified team and devise the best possible safety solutions as per the customers’ needs. As we must understand that although investment in safety compliance is absolutely critical but entrepreneurs will not get any return from this investment. Thus, Compliance BD wants to curve out the most economical and at the same time best safety compliance solution for the customers. This is what set ourselves apart from our competitors.

Additionally, Compliance BD relies on positive customer feedbacks. And we are getting repeated requests from our customers for our fire safety products. This is

how we position Compliance BD Ltd. in the market.

Our vision is to transform our customers as our marketing partners – meaning Compliance BD’s customers recommend our products and service quality among their community. If we put it into perspective, then we can see from bird's-eye view that entrepreneurs rely on positive recommendation from other entrepreneurs.

To achieve this type of loyal base, Compliance BD ensures highest level of product quality, customer service and commitment. Like we are 24/7 instantly available for our customers’ needs. Our fire safety technical solutions are topnotch. As well as, we are 100% committed to our customers. This is our main theme

Compliance BD ensures highest level of product quality, customer service and commitment. Like we are 24/7 instantly available for our customers’ needs. Our fire safety technical solutions are topnotch. As well as, we are 100% committed to our customers. This is our main theme.

Textile Today: Share us the range of firefighting solutions you are offering for the textile and apparel industry? What are the innovative solutions you will bring in near future for the industry?

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman: At the moment Compliance BD is providing firefighting solutions like: fire protection system, fire pump and controller, valves and accessories, fire door, passive fire protection, fire detection and notification system, MS pipe and fitting, fire suppression system, steam line accessories, process line accessories, etc. along with services like: design and drawing, fabrication, installation, testing, commissioning, annual

maintenance services, etc. Textile Today: You are working with some renowned brands to provide fire safety solutions. How will you differentiate them in terms of feature and cost?

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman: I always try to work on something new and innovative concepts. For instance, recent fire detections techs are wireless unlike the old techs. And we are trying to implement these new techs into RMG and other industries. We are working with many prominent brands to provide fire safety solutions in the industry. They all have different features industrialists can choose as per their necessity.

Textile Today: You are able to complete the project according to ACCORD, ALLIANCE and RSC Standard. Do you have any agreement with them? Do the factories--who accomplish their compliance with Compliance BD Ltd—face any trouble from buyers regarding compliance standard?

Engr. Md. Azizur Rahman: We are enlisted with ACCORD, ALLIANCE and RSC. We have a well capable and certified team. We have already worked with ACCORD, ALLIANCE and RSC in many projects and received certificates. But I must say that ACCORD and ALLIANCE did not have a fixed guideline for the textile and apparel industry and changed their decisions after a while. Which burdened the factories immensely. For instance, earlier most of the factories used to use negative suction pump – for which neither ACCORD nor ALLIANCE have any issue. In addition, after a while suddenly they said you cannot use negative suction pump; they said the factories must use positive suction pump. They needed to have comprehensive study before implementing any system as it does not turn as a burden for the manufactures. As this type of system change led to huge sufferings and cost increase to textile and apparel industry.

HAMS Group inaugurates new high efficient knitting & dyeing capacity

HAMS Group inaugurated its knitting and dyeing extension floor on 1st August. They have expanded their dyeing, finishing and knitting capacity. As with the addition, now the company will be able to produce 20 tons of fabric from knitting and 30 tons of fabric from the dyeing section.

With this capacity increase, they will be able to produce 5 million pcs garments per month. The floor has installed four new dyeing machines, three finishing machines and twenty-four new knitting machines.

After the expansion 52 new manpower joined to run the production.

Md. Shafiqur Rahman, Managing Director of the company who is also the president of ITET, started

his speech by thanking all of the contributors who helped in the expansion. Then he mentioned their hard decision in increasing their capacity after recovering from the covid-19 crisis. Also, he mentioned that the global market is not saturated and advised people to use resources wisely.

HAMS Group also has a new unit named “Victoria Intimate Ltd”. Currently, it has 25 lines operational and 56 lines in its plan. This project has a collaboration with LEED Green. The operation started in 2021 shortly.

The HAMS Group has 3 different plants which produce both knit and woven items. Their woven capacity is around 2 million pcs/ month. Their buyers are H&M, M&S, Next, Kmart, Urban Classic and more.

Figure 1: Md. Shafiqur Rahman is giving his speech at HAMS’s dua & mahfil program for capacity expansion.

Figure 3: Inauguration of dyeing machine by Md. Shafiqur Rahman and others.

Figure 2: Md Shafiqur Rahman was starting a knitting machine on the extended floor.

Figure 4: Textile Today's FT Team visited HAMS's newly launched knitting dyeing unit.

Staff Correspondent

Getting ready for circular fashion

The European Commission (EC) called a war against ‘fast fashion’. The Commission is committed ‘fast fashion’ to get out from fashion by 2030.

To cope-up with this decision our factories should take preparation as European Union is one of the largest RMG exporting destinations for Bangladesh. We need to prepare in the areas below:

1. Designing

2. Material

3. Production

Preparation with design

As a manufacturing country by 2030, we will be providing most of the Brand’s designs from Bangladesh. So, we need to be prepared for:

– Design with a purpose

– Design for longevity, Resource efficiency

– Design for biodegradability and Recyclability

Preparation with material

Brands are looking to integrate circularity into their business can consider implementing circular design strategies into their design

process. These include designing for disassembly through the choice of materials, components, and construction, choosing single fiber materials to allow for endof-life recycling, and designing for durability and long life. Setting up a take-back system for the end of the first user’s life is another important consideration.

We need:

– Reduced dependency on imported raw materials and produce a maximum number of materials in Bangladesh.

– Investment in cutting and production scraps upcycled into new materials.

– Solutions that TURN USED CLOTHES INTO NEW CLOTHES. For example, upcycling waste materials into new products through design, recycling waste textiles into new fiber through mechanical and chemical recycling.

– Renewable and Safe Materials. For example, using high-quality renewable fibers that are made in a safe and non-toxic way.

Preparation with production

– Get habituated with The Cradleto-Cradle Products manufacturing

methodology.

– Optimized use of resources; recycled wastewater, reused chemicals, capturing the steam from processing and using it as heat and energy for the new processing.

– Factory within a Factory to get accommodated and fully prepared with MOQ orders.

– Efficient manpower to produce Mixed product types from a modular line.

– Develop a Consumer to Manufacturer business model to produce anything ‘Fashion on Demand’ Only so that it will not be wasted soon.

_ We need to be careful when choosing our partners in the future. Some brands are more sustainable than others, so choose who they are?

China’s exports gain steam but outlook cloudy

Habibur Rahman Desk Report

As China struggles to recover from a Covid, so exports growth of China speed up in July, also offering an encouraging boost to the economy. But weakening global demand could start to drag on shipments in coming months.

Meanwhile, exports rose 18.0 percent in July from a year earlier, the fastest pace this year, compared with a 17.9 percent increase in June and beating analysts' expectations for a 15.0 percent gain.

Outbound shipments have been one of the few bright spots for

the Chinese economy in 2022, as widespread lockdowns hit businesses and consumers hard and the once mighty property market lurches from crisis to crisis.

Rergarding this, Zhiwei Zhang, chief economist at Pinpoint Asset Management said, "China's export growth surprised again on the upside, and continues to help China's economy in a difficult year as domestic demand remains sluggish."

However, many analysts have expected exports to fade as the global economy looks increasingly likely to be heading into a serious

slowdown, weighed down by soaring prices and rising interest rates.

According to a global factory survey, demand weakened in July, and with orders and output indexes falling to their weakest levels since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic in early 2020.

Besides that, China's official manufacturing survey indicated activity contracted last month, raising fears that the economy's recovery from lockdowns in spring will be slower and bumpier than expected.

Author: Habibur Rahman, Smart Factory 4.0 Consultant for Textile Apparel Industries.

Huawei Technologies intends to support RMG industry in renewable energy

Textile Today Report

A delegation of Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Ltd met with BGMEA President Faruque Hassan at the latter’s office in Dhaka on July 18.

The Huawei delegation included Pan Junfeng (Peter), Chief Executive Officer; Li Zongsheng (Jason), Board Member; Liang Weixing, Managing Director for Digital Power Business Group; and Rumman Iqbal Rony, Account Manager, Bangladesh Digital Power Business and Md Nur Alam, Account Manager, Bangladesh Digital Power Business.

BGMEA Vice President (Finance) Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, Vice President Md. Nasir Uddin and Vice President of BKMEA Fazlee Shamim Ehsan were also present

at the meeting.

They had discussions on possible collaboration between Huawei Technologies and BGMEA to increase renewable energy usage in the RMG industry of Bangladesh, particularly by using solar panels in the garment factories.

The delegation gave an overview of their proposed OPEX and CAPEX model of implementing solar PV in the RMG industry especially for SMEs.

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan said the apparel industry of Bangladesh places utmost importance to sustainable growth and has continued its efforts to minimize the environmental cost of production and decoupling resource consumption.

As a result, Bangladesh’s RMG industry has secured the leading position with the highest number of green garment factories in the world, he added.

He called on Huawei Technologies to bring innovative and costeffective solar panels to garment factories at affordable prices.

Figure: The delegation gave an overview of their proposed OPEX and CAPEX model of implementing solar PV in the RMG industry especially for SMEs.

Ananta Group takes $13.8mn Proparco loan to expand sweater manufacturing capacity

A H Monir

Ananta Group, a leading apparel exporter, has received $13.8 million in low-cost financial support from Proparco, a French Development Finance Institution.

The loan will help Ananta Huaxiang Limited (AHL) to increase its sweater manufacturing capacity through the expansion of its production facility located in Narayanganj, also to emerge as a large volume sweater manufacturer and strengthen its competitiveness in the international market.

Bangladesh is the second largest ready-made garment exporter in the world after China representing 81 percent of Bangladesh’s total exports and employing 4.4 million workers.

In this context, AHL ranks among the top 10 sweater producers in Bangladesh exporting mostly to Europe for various international brands. With this project and high-end sweater manufacturing capabilities, AHL will be able to serve its customers by producing over 10

million pieces of sweaters by 2023 at a higher quality level and price points than before.

Diane Jegam, Regional Director of Proparco’s South Asia region said, “It gives us immense pleasure to support AHL, a responsible actor in Bangladesh’s garment industry committed to gender diversity.”

By supporting the growth of a job-creating company committed to the well-being of its employees, women empowerment as well as the sustainable use of resources, Proparco is supporting the largest exporting sector of Bangladesh.

Also, due to the quality of AHL’s working conditions and its various commitments towards women empowerment, the project qualifies for the 2X Challenge, a global gender finance initiative that Proparco has been contributing to since its launch in 2018.

Regarding this, Sharif Zahir, Managing Director of Ananta Group said, “This partnership with Proparco will greatly support our

Figure: Ananta Group takes $13.8mn Proparco loan to expand sweater manufacturing capacity.

vision of sustainable factories scoring high on environmental and social compliance standards. Moreover, the new capacity expansion financed by Proparco has been completed in record time and the factory is already in operation employing a gender balanced workforce and contributing to the export earnings of the country.”

Importantly, the Project also addresses 3 SDGs: SDG#9 by developing operations at best standards; SDG#8 due to above average salary package, and to SDG#5 due to the womendedicated programme, all will be implemented.

Staff Correspondent

To diversify Bangladesh’s export basket – the govt. has given a green signal to 28 firms – mostly locals and some foreign firms –to invest around $1.3 billion in three economic zones. The Prime Minister's Office gave a nod to Bangladesh Economic Zone Authority (Beza) to private sector investments of $1.3 billion in the country's economic zones.

The twenty-eight companies will manufacture a wide range of products from textiles, garments, garment accessories, spinning, pharmaceuticals, electronics products, tourism, etc. and help the country to attain sustainable development goals (SDGs) along

with growing the living standards of the people.

Beza recently revealed that it has allotted 363.53 acres of land in Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Industrial City, Jamalpur Economic Zone, and Sabrang Tourism Park. It also said that these investment proposals will create around 36,000 jobs.

Sheikh Yusuf Harun, Executive Chairman, Beza said, “A land lease agreement would be signed with these companies soon.”

In the Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Industrial City, 15 companies will invest. Of them, the local electronic giant Walton alone will invest $0.64 billion in its allotted

100 acres of land. Walton will make electronics products, including refrigerators, televisions, and air conditioners, at the plant.

While, Fakir Knitwear Ltd, Israq Spinning Mills Ltd, Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA), KIAM Metal Industries Ltd and Healthcare Pharmaceuticals Ltd, will invest in Bangabandhu Industrial City, according to sources.

Seven companies are going to invest in Sabran Tourism Park. And six companies submitted investment proposals in the Jamalpur Economic Zone.

Govt. allowing 28 firms to invest $1.3 bn in 3 economic zones

Unveiling

Apparel exports in new markets rose to $6.36 billion in FY22

Textile Today Report

Bangladesh’s apparel shipments to non-traditional markets increased by 25.40 per cent to $6.37 billion in the Fiscal Year 2021-22 which was $5 billion in the FY21, mostly riding on the exports earnings from India and Japan.

The United States, Canada, and European countries are generally known as the traditional markets for garment exports. On the other hand, Japan, India, Australia, Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Chile, China, South Africa, and Russia are considered as new markets for garment exports.

According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, exports earnings from India posted the highest growth by 69.58 per cent to $715 million in FY22, which was $422 million in FY21. It means Bangladesh earned $293 million more in FY22 compared to the previous year.

On the other hand, garment products exports to Japan rose by 16.27 per cent to $1.09 billion, which was $945 million in the previous year.

In FY22, apparel exports to Russia declined by 1.66 per cent to $584 million, which was $594 million, while exports to the Chinese market recorded a 18 per cent negative growth to $222 million against $271 million in the previous year.

Clothing products exports to Australia grew by 11 per cent to $812 million and Korea by 36.64 per cent to $440 million.

Experts and industry people opined that cash incentives against the export to nontraditional markets played an important role, while exporters’ drive to explore new markets expedited the growth.

“We are doing better in Indian market as profit margin is better than traditional markets. This is because of our quality products,” Tahsin Shezan, Director of Classic Group. The company exports apparel goods to Indian market.

On the other hand there is no tariff barrier as the Indian government offers duty free market access. In addition, it takes less time to send goods to the neighboring country due to closer connectivity, he added.

“We are preferred to explore new export destinations as a part of market diversification. This helped us to earn more from the non-traditional markets,” said Md. Khosru Chowdhury, Managing Director of Nipa Fashion Wear Industry. The company

exports to several non-traditional markets. Non-tradition market gives extra benefits as the government offers cash incentives and the buyers are quite different than traditional, said Khosru.

It also helped to attract small buyers and small quantity work orders with different types products, he added.

“For enlarging export earnings and as a part of market diversification, we focused on exploring new markets. As a result, export earnings from

Bangladesh has joined the $50 billion exporters' club in the FY 2021-22

Export earnings from RMG products was $42.61 billion

Apparel exports in new markets rose to $6.36 billion in FY22

Exports earnings from India posted the highest among new markets

In India the growth was 69.58% to $715 million in FY22, which was $422 million in FY21

It was 16.27% to $1.09 billion in Japan, which was $945 million in the previous year

Australia grew by 11% to $812 million and Korea by 36.64% to $440 million Apparel exports to Russia declined by 1.66% to $584 million, which was $594 million in FY21

Figure: Bangladesh’s apparel shipments to non-traditional markets increased by 25.40 per cent to $6.37 billion in the Fiscal Year 2021-22.

new markets grew sharply,” Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Faruque Hassan told Textile Today.

The growth is because of robust export performance in India and Japan, while exports to other emerging markets like Korea, Chile, Turkey, Mexico, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia and Brazil are gradually increasing, he added.

“Exports earnings could be more if the Russia and Ukraine war did not hit the exports to the country.”

Now, our target is to expand exports to the MiddleEast markets, said Hassan.

“As the government provides a 4 per cent cash incentive against the exports to non-traditional export markets, manufacturers preferred to ship more to get incentives,” Khondaker Golam Moazzem, Research Director at Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) told the Textile Today.

But for sustainability and exploring new potential markets, the government should assess the impacts and offer case to case basis incentives, said the economist.

On the other hand, Asian market performs well due to proximity and shorter lead time. It is high time to capture Asian and East Asian markets, he added.

In FY22, export earnings from RMG products rose sharply by 35.47 per cent to $42.61 billion, which was $31.45 billion in the previous year.

Of the $42.61 billion, knitwear products fetched $23.21 billion, up by 36.88 per cent from last fiscal year’s $19.91 billion, while woven items earned $19.39 billion, registering a 33.82 per cent growth.

Meanwhile, Bangladesh has joined the $50 billion exporters’ club in the FY 2021-22 — recording a 34.38 per cent growth to $52 billion.

Bangladesh swimwear exports to USA reach $59 mn in Jan-May period of 22

Textile Today Report

Bangladesh swimwear export to USA grasped 4th spot in 2022’s Jan-May period. The country earned $59.24 million, noting 86.93% yearly growth.

According to recently released data of OTEXA, in January to May of 2022, USA swimwear imports have increased by 36.36% to $937.57 million.

The OTEXA data also showed that China became the top country in USA to export most swimwear and exported $285.74 million worth of swimwear, noting 44.93% Y-o-Y growth.

While Vietnam’s swimwear export to USA reached $270.95 million and remained confident as it grew 29.29% on Y-o-Y growth.

Top 4 swimwear exporting countries to USA Jan-May 2022 Source: OTEXA (Value in Million USD)

$285.74 $270.95 $97.50 $59.24

0 50 100 150 200 250 300 Bangladesh Indonesia Vietnam China

Indonesia

third major swimwear exporter to the USA in January to May of 2022 and exported $97.50 million worth of swimwear.

PUMA eager to source more from Bangladesh

Textile Today Report

Leading global sports brand PUMA is keen to increase its apparel sourcing from Bangladesh, according to a statement issued in this regard.

In a recent meeting with BGMEA President Faruque Hassan, Chief Sourcing Officer of PUMA AnneLaure Descours PUMA expressed its interest to source more apparel products from Bangladesh, specially the value-added and sustainable items.

Branch Manager at PUMA

Bangladesh Moyeen Hyder Chowdhury and BGMEA Director Asif Ashraf were also present during the discussion.

BGMEA President highlighted the potential of Bangladesh as a sourcing country for value-added sportswear, outerwear, swimwear, activewear and workwear even as he apprised Anne-Laure Descours about the RMG industry’s increased focus on diversification of products, especially non-cotton and high-end apparels.

Figure:PUMA is keen to increase its apparel sourcing from Bangladesh, according to a statement issued in this regard.

was the

Bangladesh becoming top source for digital textile printed items

MS Digital Printing Solutions offers proven digital textile technologies solutions which is contributing to increase the efficiency of Bangladesh textile sector’s to meet the real time customer demand

Digital printing is the upcoming and most popular way of getting the fabrics printed in the colours and prints that customers desire to have. Digital printing is also a

experience it is offering innovative technologies for textile producers to meet the unending demand of customer.

A.H.M. Masum, Country Manager at MS Printing Solutions Srl is a skilled textile professional with a total of 13 years of extensive experience in Sales (Textile Machineries and Consumable Products), Sales Management, Business Development, Marketing Strategy, Business Strategy, Production Management, Research and Developments, Outsourcing, etc. Textile Today had a discussion with A.H.M. Masum to dig out the current status of MS Printing Solutions Srl, key benefits of their solutions etc.

Textile Today: Please say something about MS Printing Solution. What is the present status of the company in the market of digital textile printing?

A.H.M. Masum: We (MS Digital Printing Solutions, a Dover company) have a long family history now reaching its 4th generation, full of experience and passion. Tradition is very important for us

and with this deep knowledge of our industry, we strongly believe in the success of innovation. The MS knowledge and experience allows us to develop innovative products for the demanding and ever changing market of digital textile printing. Our modern technologies allow us to improve any aspect of textile printing, starting from performance and up to including the important environmental issues. The versatility of these digital technologies also opens the way to different printed applications such as paper and plastic substrates.

Textile Today: What are the key benefits of MS Printing Solution’s technologies? How do you provide the service supports to your customers?

A.H.M. Masum: We are the proven technology in the textile digital printing sector, having at least 40 years of direct experience in textile printing and more than 20 in digital printing. Until the beginning of 2020 produced at least 15 machines / monthly, and currently, we have the worldwide largest number of machines installed (more than 1500 units). A few of our key advantages are as per followings:

1. Due to the features of the carriage and print heads, MS

BTT Interview

A.H.M. Masum, Country Manager, MS Printing Solutions

equipped with Kyocera is the faster on the real production

2. We can provide an entry system for jumbo roll, managing woven and knitted fabric with a special centering device.

3. The combination of drop size, ink coverage, and speed is better than our competitors.

4. We suggest our own inks (JK) as well as remain an open system to any INK SUPPLIER.

5. We offer lower ink price (with suggested inks) and Print Heads Program in order to give a warranty on PHs.

6. Capping and cleaning system of our machine is unique, we prefer a unique capping station with water inside to keep the right humidity.

Our motto is to provide endless service support to our valuable customers. If I tell about Bangladesh Market, our main strength is after-sales support. Currently, we have 7 experienced engineers who are dedicated only for MS (2 engineers from MS and 5 engineers from our local agent Pacific Associates Ltd). Very soon, another senior engineer from abroad will join our team. Even, we have rich numbers of spares in our local agents’ stock.

Textile Today: To adopt the technologies-- what you are offering – requires a big investment. What is the Return on investment (ROI) period of these technologies?

A.H.M. Masum: Nowadays, digital printing is not a new technology. Of course in Bangladesh, we have lacking of experienced manpower and we are well prepared for that. We have an academy in Italy and arrange advance training (software and design training, advance machine learning, practical training, etc.) for our customers and agents. Here in Bangladesh also, we are arranging training (online as well as offline) for our customers.

ROI depends on how you feed your machine. Customers can get back their investment within one year if they have enough fabrics to feed the machine.

For the reputed customers-who showing good payment transformation--we offer one year deferred LC facility. Also, we assist our customers to get up-to four years credit facility to get loan through Italian banking association SACE with a lower interest rate.

Textile Today: What are the current business scopes MS Printing Solution looking at Bangladesh market?

A.H.M. Masum: Bangladesh is one of our potential markets, we are well prepared to become the market leader and we are way on the right track. Till the end of 2021, we had 20 machines in Bangladesh (Robintex, ACS, DBL, Knit Concern, Sharmin, AKH, Lantabur, etc). By end of 2022, we are expecting our number of the machine should be more than 30. This year till July, we have booked 8 machines, and out of 8 already shipped 4 machines.

Textile Today: Digital textile printing trends are changing persistently. How can your company expedite Bangladesh’s textile sector’s efficiency through its innovative products in the ever-changing market?

A.H.M. Masum: The global digital textile printing market is currently valued at around US$ 2.7 Bn, and is anticipated to progress at a phenomenal CAGR of 16.3% to reach US$ 8 Bn by the end of the year 2029. To diversify of product portfolio in the worldwide market, digital textile printing companies are attempting to advance on technological fronts and are investing extensively in research and development operations. We believe, Bangladesh is going to become the top place for the production of digital textile print fabrics.

MS Printing & JK Group at FEBRATEX 2022

Textile Today Report

FEBRATEX 2022 – The largest fair for the textile industry of the Americas will held on 23-26 August –Blumenau – and MS Printing & JK Group will exhibit at Hall 3 – Stand 102.

MS Printing & JK Group at FEBRATEX 2022 will talk about Pigment printing, therefore less water and energy consumption. Printing with pigment inks is an easy and waterless process, suitable for a wide range of fibers. The printing process by pigment allows a sustainable production chain, ensuring cost-effective printing outputs. This is possible, thanks to the flexibility and versatility of JP7 which can be easily “shifted” to other printing processes, making the investment extremely cost-effective.

Besides the sustainable development goals with concrete actions by offering disperse, dye-sub, pigment, and reactive inks that comply with the

major textile international environmental standards, among which there are ZDHC and Eco Passport certifications.

Figure: FEBRATEX 2022 the largest fair for the textile industry of the Americas will held on 23-26 August – Blumenau – Hall 3 – Stand 102.

BRAC's OSSC services improving wellbeing of Bangladesh RMG workers

Staff Correspondent

Bangladesh's highest export earnings depend on the RMG sector. Workplace safety was a major concern for the RMG industry in Bangladesh, however, as the government, NGOs, CSOs, brands, and buyers are engaged in promoting workplace safety and compliance in the RMG sector, now Bangladesh is a leader in workplace safety and health compliance. However, general health, wellness, and quality of life are needed to be more addressed.

BRAC, the country's largest NGO, has taken an initiative to provide a one-stop service to improve the well-being of more than 50,000 RMG workers.

BRAC conducts extensive welfare activities through three One-Stop Service Centers (OSSCs) located at Tongi, Gazipur, and Savar. BRAC's OSSC services ensure quality healthcare, legal aid, skills development training, employment and financial services (such as mobile banking, DPS, and health insurance) for RMG workers in Bangladesh. Under BRAC's Urban Development Program and in partnership with 30 RMG factories, city authorities, and life insurance company, OSSC services improve their livelihoods by ensuring access to affordable basic services, safe and productive livelihoods, affordable and safe housing, and climate change resilience.

More than half of the RMG workers were laid off during the epidemic. BRAC offers DPS (Deposit Premium Scheme) for workers as a general endowment plan with a monthly deposit of only BDT 100. BRAC has contributed BDT 100 to that DPS for one year to motivate the employees. Now 5,001 RMG workers are registered in DPS. Also, in the industry, there is too much safety and inadequate healthcare.

BRAC has reached 31,090 people through its healthcare services. Healthcare services are becoming more expensive. Every day workers can

Health care

31,090 people reached through healthcare service Skills Training

2,348 people took Skills Training

Legal Aid

3,431 people took Legal Aid support Financial Services

5,001 enrolled in DPS 5,071 enrolled in Health Insurance

Play lab cum Daycare

23 children enrolled in Daycare Center

Bridge Affiliation

Total Population reached 102,810 (excluding Maya App)

Figure: OSSC’s key achievements till December 2021.

get free healthcare at the OSSC center. The rate of women workers in the RMG industry has dropped drastically from 80-70 percent to 50-60 percent. Less healthcare and childcare are keeping women out of the workplace. OSSC services are helping these women overcome these problems through healthcare and childcare. Now, 23 children of RMG workers stay at the OSSC day care center while their parents go to work.

BRAC's awareness campaign for OSSC services reached 8,838 RMG employees and 24,335 RMG employees through 86 peer educator events.

Figure: Healthcare service of BRAC’s OSSC services.

Murata Machinery Ltd. will present VORTEX® yarn’s functionalities for apparel makers

Japan based Murata Machinery Ltd. will showcase its groundbreaking ‘VORTEX® yarn’ in a knowledge sharing grand event for Bangladesh apparel makers on October 16 at the hotel Radisson Blue in Dhaka. Their existing and potential clients will join in the knowledge sharing grand event to hear more about the VORTEX® yarn.

In recent years, Bangladesh apparel and textile industry has developed rapidly and vigorously. Murata Machinery Ltd. is one of the world’s key producers of VORTEX® yarn. We see an immense potential here in Bangladesh market due to robust demand for VORTEX® yarn which has increased in the past few years and it will continue to increase.”

Shunya Okumura Executive (Sales)

Bangladesh Readymade Garment (RMG) industry is globally prominent for manufacturing apparel items. While the VORTEX® yarn standout in making fashion apparel due to its various unique features, the company offers high quality value-added yarn with high function and fashion applicability.

Thus, Murata sees immense potential for the Bangladesh market. As the industry is transforming very fast and all the renowned global brands and retailers are moving more value-added and technical garments to Bangladesh. VORTEX® is striving to offer yarn that reliably produces high quality products and creates exciting new value, as well as being both userand environmentally-friendly.

Now-a-days the Textile factories are facing some problems in apparel products like Hairiness in surface which creates Pilling, Non-durable garments, Spirality etc. The yarn VORTEX in the arena of textile apparel sector has brought up innovative creation along with new application techniques. This advanced type of yarn has brought out an impressive feature in textile performances. The unique structure of fibers are controlled in this yarn to make this for special performance in textiles.

Advantages of VORTEX® yarn

• Less hairiness and clear appearance

• High resistance to pilling and abrasion

• High moisture absorption

• Less shrinkage and high wash resistance

• Can be spun with various other materials such as cotton, synthetic fiber, regenerated fiber and blended fiber

VORTEX® yarns has various functional uses and provides the yarn with a wide range of functionalities. The functionality of VORTEX® yarn is offering the Bangladeshi apparel makers plenty of applications from apparel and distribution to product development proposals.

“Bangladesh Readymade Garment (RMG) industry—the second largest exporter in the world--is globally renowned for its quality apparel items. Murata Machinery Ltd. wants to show the potential of VORTEX® yarn usage to its existing and prospective clients in the upcoming knowledge sharing grand event. VORTEX® yarn with its various unique features and structures creating special performance in textiles along with its high function and fashion acceptability.

Takuji Yamaoka Area Manager (South Asia)

Many value-added or differentiated products have been developed all over the world by using VORTEX® yarns. Over 20 countries around the world have used VORTEX® yarn to promote their products to apparel and distribution companies.

VORTEX® yarn is used in a wide range of fashion items and fabrics, ranging from casual to formal, and from daily necessities to luxury items like underwear, leggings, formal wear, traditional costume, bed sheet, towel, socks, flame retardant uniforms, bottom, carpet, golf bag etc.

Bangladesh apparel exporters mainly exports cotton made garments while the global market is thriving with manmade fiber. To remain competitive in the apparel exporting destinations—Bangladesh should go for more and more value added apparel production. And here the VORTEX® yarns can be the best choice to make value added items securing the markets.

Sayed Abdullah

Green-Bldg, 2-6-26, Kitahama, Chuo-ku, Osaka, 541-0041, Japan T. +81-(0)6-6202-1385

Bangladesh Office: Paradise Tower, 5th Floor, Plot #11, Sector #3, Uttara, Dhaka, Bangladesh T. +880-(0)2-48955001 M. +8801712050522 W. www.muratec.net

The next big thing in sustainable fashion

APR Story

Viscose fabric is one of the world's most well-known textiles because it is both durable and soft to the touch. The fact that viscose is a renewable and fully biodegradable alternative to acrylic, nylon, polyester, and other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics, which can sit in landfills for decades, explains its popularity.

Viscose-rayon is also becoming a more popular choice for designers, and demand for it as a sustainable fashion fabric is growing. Sustainable fashion refers to clothing that is produced in a responsible manner that respects the environment and the communities in which it is produced.

How is Viscose Made?

Viscose rayon, which is made entirely of wood cellulose, has the look and feel of silk and the comfort, breathability, and absorbency of cotton. The viscose manufacturing process begins with dissolving the wood in a pulp solution, followed by filtering, washing, cutting, and drying. This solution is then treated once more to produce fibre. It is then spun into yarn and woven or knitted into viscose rayon fabric.

What Are the Characteristics of Viscose?

Viscose is a great option if you’re looking for a lightweight material with a nice drape, a lustrous finish, and a soft feel. It also blends well with other fibres like cotton, polyester, and spandex.

• Absorbent: Viscose rayon does not trap heat, but it also absorbs water and sweat nicely, making it great for t-shirts and active wear.

• Lightweight: Viscose is light and airy, making it ideal for blouses and summer dresses.

• Breathable: It’s a very light fabric, so it’s optimal for warm-weather clothing.

• Soft: While the material looks like silk, it feels like cotton.

• Maintains Shape: The fabric is not elastic, but it can be blended with other textiles to add stretch, such as spandex.

• Easy to dye: Viscose can hold dye without fading, even after long-term use and washes.

Why viscose?

Hypo-allergenic

The natural fibres of viscose are hypo-allergenic, making it the perfect choice for even the most sensitive skin.

Sustainable

Sustainable fashion refers to clothing that is produced in a responsible manner that respects the environment and the communities in which it is produced. APR viscose uses carefully sourced pulp from trees that come from FSC-certified forests, with minimal impact

on the environment as the trees are grown organically without pesticides. Growing trees helps to improve soil quality, prevent soil erosion and retain water.

Our viscose fabrics are produced using the ‘Closed Loop’ system and adhere to strict environmental policies. This reduces the amount of waste in producing the fibres and the fabric manufacturing units have water treatment plants that treat the processing water before releasing it back into the environment.

Biodegradable

Viscose garment will last a seriously long time, and will naturally decompose in soil. This fact is in line with APR2030. The vision is based on four pillars of commitments, focused around positive impacts on climate and nature, clean manufacturing, circularity, and inclusive communities. These commitments are supported by 19 specific targets to be achieved by 2030.

About Asia Pacific Rayon

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), based in Indonesia, is Asia's first fully integrated viscose rayon producer, from plantation to viscose fibre. APR, which has a capacity of 300,000 tons per year, is located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau province, Indonesia, alongside pulp supplier APRIL. APR and APRIL are both part of a group of companies managed by RGE,

a Singapore-based resource-based group. APR’s bespoke traceability platform, followourfibre. com, lets APR’s customers and ultimately consumers to trace fibre back to where it was grown. The full transparency of its supply chain is visible on the app on the company’s website. These initiatives are all part of APR’s commitment to becoming a leading and responsible viscose staple fibre producer and providing value to our customers.

5 sustainable fabric technologies launched to change fashion

Textile Today Report

Recently 5 new sustainable, carbon-negative, plant-based technologies for fabrics have just been launched on the market. Allie Sutton, who launched these innovative technologies, is working to change the future of fashion.

“I thought there has to be a different technology to ease the pain, one that doesn’t require throwing away single use items such as gloves and gowns,” says Allie Sutton. “There should be a technology where the virus dies instead of the fabric.”

Sutton partnered with a team of botanical scientists who had already been developing technology towards this goal. The team was headed by Dr. Phyllis Levine, global medical director, a Gynecologic Oncologist with a degree in Materials Science and Engineering from M.I.T. bringing together her expertise and insight into both the healthcare and textile technology industries, she had been involved in the development and introduction of sustainable innovative bio-functional materials for almost a decade.

According to Allie, the future of fashion is natural dyes and products that don’t need to be washed. The self-cleaning technologies are applied to fabric after the dyeing process when other treatments and finishings are added. Our mission to use the power of nature to create a more sustainable, safer, and healthier world through plant-based innovation appeals to brands around the world who, Sutton says, are already lined up to acquire the technology.

The 5 technologies

EcoArmor, one of the world’s first sustainable, air, plastic and fabric antimicrobial technologies that kills 99.9 percent of bacteria and viruses, mold, and fungus; InsectProof, a plant-based and permethrin-free bug repellent technology for fabrics, skin, and hard-goods;

MindfullyClean, a self-cleaning fabric technology which allows products treated with it to stay fresh and clean regardless of use and rarely needing to be washed; OdorSafe which permanently destroys and eliminates bad odors on fabrics;

Natural Dyes, a complete range of sustainably derived, non-toxic, biodegradable colorants for hard goods and textiles. All the technology can be applied to any fabric type, both synthetic and natural.

Sutton says that those who work with natural dyes know it’s almost impossible to get true dark colors, but Moonlight Technologies, as of this week, can offer a full range of natural dyes extracted from plants including one of the first natural blacks that does not come from charcoal.

Synthetic dyes, which were first discovered in the 1850s, were valued for their ability to be mass produced and color textiles vibrantly, but they contain toxic chemicals that are harmful to the environment. Natural dyes which are non-allergenic and derived from plants, trees, flowers and fungi, are safe for both planet and people. Natural dyes are typically more expensive than synthetic but Sutton says Moonlight Technologies’ dyes, which are derived from a 100 percent carbon-negative process, are also competitively priced.

report is made based on a report published in FashionUnited)

Figure 1: Recently 5 new sustainable, carbon-negative, plant-based technologies for fabrics have just been launched on the market.

Figure 2: Allie Sutton, CEO of Moonlight Technologies. (Photo: collected)

Upcoming denim fashion trends

In the previous seasons for men’s and women’s jeans had become more and more oversized and baggy. This doesn’t mean that slim fit or straight-leg jeans aren’t going to continue being denim staple as well. As you know that fashion is not all about what you like and what you want to wear. Nobody is telling you what you should wear.

The Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collections are no exception. Vibrant patterns, sheer garments, V-necks, and loose-fitting trousers return this season with an added attention to layered denim, delicate crochet, and a prominent savanna-like color scheme (beige, orange, and

brown). Now you’ll be catching up with some recognized fashion trends collections.

Maximalist Canadian Tuxedo

While a Canadian tuxedo refers to an all-denim look, it usually refers to a combination of jeans and denim jacket. Brands like David Catalán and Kenzo took the concept to a new level with heavily-layered denim outfits. It’s now officially encouraged to wear a denim shirt under your denim jacket—and you will receive bonus points if you have a denim tie! Something to note is that the Maximalist Canadian Tuxedos on the runway didn’t always have denim that was the same wash, so feel free to mix and match shades

to add more intrigue to the look.

Embroidered Details:

Embroidery adds beautiful texture and depth to denim, and The Y Project and Bluemarble runway shows both featured Wild westinspired embroidery down the legs of the jeans. If you love a DIY project or have embroidery experience, this is a great way to spruce up a pair of vintage Levis! If not, iron-on embroidered patches will have a similar effect.

Extra-Wide Leg

Wide-leg jeans were a top denim trend recently and even started a TikTok campaign to cancel skinny jeans. Now the trend is expanding with even wider pant legs. These wide-legs starts at the waist and gets progressively wider until it reaches the hem, almost as if mimicking the flow of an A-line skirt. And though these jeans may be wide, they aren’t baggy.

Bluemarble’s take on the extrawide leg jeans included a colorful belt, which may be necessary in order to keep these pants up. You don’t need to know how to skateboard in order to rock his look, but carrying one around would really add to the overall Lords of Dogtown Take Fashion Week aesthetic.

Denim on denim

Denim on denim is controversial, to say the least. It gained its

Ibrahim Khalil

popularity in the 2000s with iconic photos of Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears sporting the look. However, in the past 10 years, many say it’s too much, too blue. This season, designers proved that its previous popularity was for a reason. By ensuring that both garments had the same denim wash, a striking two-piece set was curated and an iconic look was revealed. With Raf Simons stepping in as co-director for Prada alongside Miuccia Prada, even the traditionally sophisticated label seemed to experiment with more ‘normal’ materials including

denim. Put together correctly, the look is not too much in any sense, but rather a classic material that layered together becomes style.

Youthful nostalgia

An overarching theme of many of the Spring/Summer 2023 collections is youthful nostalgia and many garments designed

sports fan t-shirts, they all seem to reminisce adolescence through fashion.

A Focus on essentials – softly

Manufacturers and brands are paving the way for slow fashion with a refined focus on key essential products that consumers buy only because they need them.

The natural character of fabrics is highlighted by leaving them untreated — either unbleached or undyed. Hand embroidery, natural tints, faded shibori and marbled pastel effects further complement the slow fashion theme.

specifically embody this energy. Whether it's Prada with oversized gingham, Louis Vuitton with vibrant primary colors and chunky beads, or Dolce & Gabbana with

Softly focuses on essential pieces, or items that consumers buy only because they need them. Cocoonlike comfort, oversized silhouettes, duster-length coats and shirts, and jeans and jackets embodying timeless utilitarian details such as deep pockets fit perfectly into this trend.

There is an increased focus on raw materials and their intrinsic properties – for example, ‘hemp and linen were previously saved for Spring/Summer collections but the fibres’ sustainable benefits are making them popular for yearround use,” Shannon Reddy, a Designer and Trend Forecaster at Denim Dudes, reported.

The trend embraces a color palette comprising true indigos and soft neutrals like terracotta, brown and shades of green and indigo vat dyeing.

The Trust Protocol provides, for the first time, annual and verified data to brands and retailers for seven areas of sustainability aligned with the U.N. Sustainability Goals.

Through third-party verification, robust data inputs and bale-to-mill trackability, the Trust Protocol gives brands and retailers the critical assurances they need to prove the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. The more sustainable cotton choice, today and tomorrow.

To learn more contact: Ali Arsalan aarsalan@cotton.org +88 02 5503 5410

Improvement scopes of Bangladesh spinning industry

Spinning mills of Bangladesh are playing a vital role in the export oriented garments industry and the local market as well. As the raw material of these mills are directly imported, the industry needs to be much more efficient to become competitive.

After covid 19 pandemic, the price of the cotton gone extremely high which was never seen before. The Garments manufacturer faced severe challenges to meet the price of different brands due to high price of cotton and yarn as well. In Bangladesh there are more than 400 spinning mills. Many of them have already invested a huge amount to expand their capacities as they have observed a growth in the export volume of the garments industry. The textile and apparel industry has seen a 34.87% % growth so far in the last year in terms of volume. Though the real growth in terms of order quantity is much less. On the other hand, due to Ukraine-Russia Crisis the future market situation is very much unpredictable.

Analyzing the above points spinning mills of Bangladesh need to be much more innovative and efficient to maintain a sustainable business for themselves and for the whole textiles and garments industry as well. There are some areas where spinning mills can work and take initiatives to reach a global standard to become competitive:

Wastage reduction and management

In different steps of the spinning operation of cotton yarn, a huge amount of waste is produced.

For carded yarn 15-16 percent waste is created in different steps. For combed yarn around 32 % waste is created. However, droppings of different steps are being used in the rotor spinning segment. If the spinning mills can take initiatives to reduce the waste in different steps maintaining the required quality then a huge savings and improvement can be done which will directly hit the profit.

Besides raw material, spinning mills should also look into the wastages of energy and work for the progress and reuse.

Good team work, proper data analysis, management involvement and correct decision to reach a desired goal in the waste management area can be a very good improvement segment.

Raw materials management

60-70 % cost of the yarn is involved only with the fibre or cotton. Bangladesh needs to import all the amount of cotton from different cotton producing countries. Different certifications are needed for different brands.

Based on the different parameters cotton is blended in the blow room to achieve required quality of the customer. Analyzing the recent scenario, we can observe that the price of the cotton market is very unstable. Spinning mills should have proper data analyzing systems which includes different countries cotton parameters, quantity, future market forecast for different brands, required certifications etc. So that the decision for raw materials management becomes very much efficient and perfect to be the most competitive.

Spare parts management

In spinning mills different machines are used in Blow room, carding, draw frame, simplex, ring, autoconer segment. From one point of view these machines are very much costly and spare parts are very frequently needed to keep the production smooth also to get the longest life time of the same. So, spare parts play a strong role in the spinning mill. Proper maintenance of the machines, use of 5s, lean and different global inventory system for the spare parts management can make the whole system more effective and profit focused. Spinning mills should also take initiative in this area.

Workers management for higher efficiency

The worker efficiency of the Bangladesh spinning mills is much less than the competitive countries like India, Vietnam, China etc. One Bangladeshi worker can handle around 2000 spindles. On the other hand workers from above mentioned countries can handle around 6000 spindles. So there is a huge scope of improvement. Proper training, management involvement, change in mindset, usage of available low cost automation can play a big role

Sanjoy Kumar Saha

to bring significant improvement in this area. To stay competitive in terms of production cost worker efficiency can play a major role, and spinning mills should take this point into consideration.

Product diversification

Jute, the golden fibre of Bangladesh is a cellulosic fiber. In recent times we have seen some significant and business oriented innovation in producing Jute –Cotton blended yarn and fabric. Already we are going

to have bulk orders from different world famous brands.

Different spinning mills are also working with BananaCotton blended yarn / fabric, Pineapple- Cotton blended fabric which is really a good sign from the product diversification point of view. Also they should work more on the synthetic fibre & yarn.

All the spinning mills should have a quality R & D team to create new product ranges to stay competitive in the Global market.

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol confirmed as ISEAL community member

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol was accepted as an ISEAL Community Member following a rigorous and meticulous approval process and only eighteen months after the program’s launch.

ISEAL is a global membership organization that supports credited sustainability systems in their work, with the goal to drive greater impact and establish markets that are a force for good. The organization focuses on a wide variety of global challenges such as the climate emergency, biodiversity crisis and human rights issues among others. ISEAL works to define credible practices for sustainability, foster collaboration and shared experience, deliver expertise and training, and promote innovation to strengthen sustainability systems.

“I’m very happy to congratulate the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol on becoming an ISEAL Community Member,” said Karin Kreider, ISEAL’s Executive Director. “The Trust Protocol supports cotton producers to develop bespoke management plans aimed at improving their sustainability, and innovative use of data and metrics supports measurement of success over time. We are excited to have a fresh perspective in the ISEAL learning community, and to have another member working to improve sustainability outcomes in the cotton sector.”

ISEAL Community Members must be committed to continually improving their systems through learning and innovation, with emphasis on the importance of collaboration. They also are required to be transparent about how their programs work and how they measure impacts.

The Trust Protocol is the only fiber sustainability system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics - land

use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency. It also is the world’s first sustainable cotton fiber to offer its members article-level supply chain transparency through the Protocol Consumption Management Solution.

We are proud that the Trust Protocol was accepted as an ISEAL Community Member understanding the rigorous process and governance ISEAL adheres to,”

- Dr. Gary Adams, President, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

ISEAL Community membership provides the Trust Protocol the continued opportunity to set a new standard in more sustainable cotton production where full transparency is a reality and continuous improvement to reduce our environmental footprint is the central goal.

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, recognized by Textile Exchange and Forum for the Future, and part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, Cotton 2040 and Cotton Up initiatives. It has also been recognized and published in the ITC Standards Map and recognized as a standard for sustainable cotton by the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles.

Staff Correspondent

Global cotton market recovering from the pandemic woes

Sayed Abdullah

The global cotton market size was $38.54 billion in 2020. While A robust recovery in global apparel demand pushed by a renewal in consumption from textile and apparel industries the cotton and cotton made apparel demand has amplified by 2%. As a result, the global cotton market is expected to reach $46.56 billion by 2027, with a CAGR of 2.74% from 2020 to 2027, according to ResearchAndMarkets. com.

4% higher at 121.3 million bales in 2022/23, the outcome of amplified cultivation area. While the global cotton use in mills is likely to be slightly lower at 121.5 million bales, as inflationary burdens effect the international economy.

Major global cotton producers like the US, Brazil, Pakistan, India and China witnessed a stiffened carryover stocks for 2021/22, which is expected to keep cotton prices high. According to USDA data, in 2022 US cotton production forecast remains at 16.5 million bales in June, nearly 6% (1 million bales) below the 2021 crop and 5% below the 3-year average. While a robust rebound in global demand in lower cotton production in main cotton producing countries such as India, the US, Pakistan, Brazil, and Turkey during the preceding season has stiffened carry-over stocks for 2021/22, which is expected to keep prices high. Furthermore, recent harvest concerns in the US and India have raised anxieties of smooth global availability.

Major suppliers

Although due to the market just recovering from the pandemic woes – other recent global happenings have increased instability in the cotton market.

In FY 22, the global cotton market has witnessed some volatility due to various factors like shipping container shortages, shipment delays, and high ocean freight rates and not to mention the RussiaUkraine war. As a result, the global cotton supply is projected to deteriorate by 1.2%, coupled with a 4.9% reduction in stockpiles.

Global cotton stock

As per the latest U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) cotton forecasts for 2022/23 (August-July) show a minor decay in global cotton ending stocks, compared with 2021/22, as mill use remains above production. The global cotton stocks are expected at 82.8 million bales at the end of 2022/23, the bottommost in 4 years.

Global cotton production is estimated approximately

The US is forecast to remain one of the world’s leading cotton exporters, but other producing nations—like Brazil and Australia—are likely to have greater supplies to strive on the international market compared with the previous year.

Thus, according to USDA data, the 2022/23 US share of global cotton trade is forecast to cut by 30.5%. Yet, the US cotton exports are predicted to account for more than 85% of US cotton demand in 2022/23, similar to the 5-year average. Meanwhile, the US cotton mill use is likely at 2.5 million bales in 2022/23, slightly below 2021/22; increased cotton prices and a slow demand from clothing purchases by consumers amid financial worries is projected to limit US cotton spinning operations in 2022/23.

Among other top cotton producing countries, India and China’s production forecast at 27.5 million bales for 2022/23. For India, a 12-percent rebound is expected from the 2021/22 crop that was restricted

due to both area and yield deteriorations.

Cotton production in China is forecast 2% higher in 2022/23, as cultivation area and yield are each slightly higher at 3.15 million hectares and 1,901 kg per hectare, respectively. Although the recent flash floods and mudslides and heatwaves are posing threats for its cotton production. The extremely hot weather has driven up demand for electricity to cool homes, offices and factories. In agricultural regions, drought has been a worry.

Moreover, cotton production forecast in 2022/23 is higher for Brazil and Pakistan, while unmoved for Australia. For Brazil, cotton production is expected at 13.2 million bales for 2022/23. The 2022/23 increase is due to a higher yield (1,796 kg per hectare), as area is expected to remain untouched at 1.6 million hectares. Brazil is estimate to contribute 11% of the total global cotton crop in 2022/23. For Pakistan, cotton production is estimated around 200,000 bales higher for 2022/23, at 6.2 million bales. Despite a projected 10-percent increase in harvested area.

Price outlook

Though the global cotton trade is predictable to rebound to its second highest on record, with the USA and Brazil the main exporters. Meanwhile, inflated cotton prices are likely to linger in 2022/23 as the global stocks-to-use ratio remains at one of the bottommost levels of the past 10 years. While increasing input costs, higher energy costs, and sustained supply chocks are likely to keep cotton prices high.

In addition, the increase in crude oil prices is likely to surge sea freight rates is likely to daunt fresh cotton export orders. Moreover, the consolidation of US dollar may further overwhelm cotton demand, and lower prices.

While in the long run, precision in global cotton demand will regulate price levels, with primary estimations projecting a surge of 1.7% Y-o-Y for 2022/23. The growing cost of inputs such as fertilizer and energy are expected to keep cotton prices supported in the long-term, while increasing crude oil prices are expected to increase prices of substitute polyester fiber, thereby increasing global cotton demand.

Import

Leading cotton sourcing countries are expected to witness a reduction in export volumes for 2021/22. As a result, in the downstream countries are predicted to be in a suffocating scenario.

In short-term the Russia–Ukraine conflict will likely to push down cotton prices as consumers will cutback on fashion spending and mill demand for cotton is likely to worsen the hostile impact of dominant restraints to demand, such as rising inflation, growing interest rates, and the removal of stimulus packages.

In addition, spinning mills are expected to implement a vigilant approach and hold back on orders for cotton amid the worldwide ambiguity in demand, which may increase stocks.

According to USDA, cotton imports are lowered for the seventh successive month and consumption is lowered for the fourth consecutive month, especially for top cotton consumers including China, Pakistan, Vietnam, and Bangladesh. Predictions for the world’s major importing country, China, have declined remarkably since the start of the calendar year.

In terms of cotton import, leading Asian garment producing countries – China, Bangladesh and Vietnam are the leading cotton importing countries in 2020/21.

One of the leading cotton importing country Bangladesh is expected to witness an upsurge by 1.33 percent in marketing year (MY) 2021-22 over the previous year due to a higher demand for locally spun yarn. In MY 2019-20 as well as in MY 2020-21, Bangladesh imported 7.5 million 480 lb bales. Forthcoming cotton production and consumption worldwide will continue to be repressed by weaker demand for cotton products. However, global imports are expected to rebound next year due to an increase in exportable supplies though use will remain flat.

Shredded cotton waste beneficiary for cotton fields study

A study in the rural town of Goondiwindi Queensland in Australia has unearthed that shredded cotton made textile waste to cotton fields is beneficiary to soil without any adverse effect. And can offer profits to soil health, and a scalable solution to the huge global textile waste situation.

A 12-month trial on a cotton farm project, under the supervision of circular economy specialists Coreo, was a collaboration between the Queensland Government, Goondiwindi Cotton, Sheridan, Cotton Australia, Worn Up, and Cotton Research and Development Corporation supported soil scientist Dr Oliver Knox of UNE.

About 2 tons of end-of-life cotton textiles from Sheridan and State Emergency Service coveralls were handled at Worn Up in Sydney, transported to ‘Alcheringa’ farm, and spread onto a cotton field by local farmer, Sam Coulton.

Trial outcomes advocate such waste could appropriate for the cotton fields from which they were once harvested, instead than landfill, however project partners are to repeat their work during the 2022-23 cotton season to validate these initial findings.

Dr Oliver Knox, UNE (supported by the Cotton Research and Development Corporation) and a cotton industry supported soil scientist said, “At the very least the trial showed that no harm was done to soil health, with microbial activity slightly increased and at least 2,070 kg of carbon dioxide equivalents (CO2e) mitigated through the breakdown of these

“At the very least the trial showed that no harm was done to soil health, with microbial activity slightly increased and at least 2,070 kg of carbon dioxide equivalents (CO2e) mitigated through the breakdown of these garments in soil rather than landfill.”

- Dr Oliver Knox

garments in soil rather than landfill.”

“The trial diverted around two tons of textile waste from landfill with no negative impact on cotton planting, emergence, growth, or harvest. Soil carbon levels remained stable, and the soil’s bugs responded well to the added cotton material. There also appeared to be no adverse effect from dyes and finishes although more testing is needed on a wider range of chemicals to be absolutely sure of that,” Knox added.

As per Sam Coulton, a local farmer cotton fields easily ‘swallowed up’ the shredded cotton material, giving him confidence that this composting method has practical long-term potential.

Sam Coulton said, “We spread the cotton textile waste a few months before cotton planting in June 2021 and by January and the middle of the season the cotton waste had all but disappeared, even at the rate of 50 tons to the hectare.”

“I would not expect to see improvements in soil health or yield for at least five years as the benefits need time to accumulate, but I was very encouraged that there was no detrimental impact on our soils. In the past we’ve spread cotton gin trash on other parts of the farm and have seen dramatic improvements in the moisture holding capacity on these fields so would expect the same using shredded cotton waste,” Coulton added.

“We spread the cotton textile waste a few months before cotton planting in June 2021 and by January and the middle of the season the cotton waste had all but disappeared, even at the rate of 50 tons to the hectare.”

- Sam Coulton

The Australian project team will now further enhance their work to figure out the best possible ways to collaborate. And the Cotton Research and Development Corporation has dedicated to funding a three-year cotton textile composting research project by the University of Newcastle that will additionally explore the outcome of dyes and finishes and explore at ways to pelletize cotton textiles so it can be outspread on fields using current farm machinery.

Textile Today Report

Field tests confirm high performance of new Accotex aprons

The latest Accotex apron NO-79201 is made from new compounds that deliver longer life and better performance. Flexible enough to work with all fiber types across ring and compact-spinning machines, field trials show better resistance throughout a 12-month spinning cycle. The NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom aprons for all kinds of applications.

the NO-78210G and a competitor’s apron (Fig. 2). The friction value of the different aprons was measured over the whole apron life in regular frequencies. Each column reflects the individual friction value of the inner layer evaluated on representative apron samples from the field test at 3, 6, 9 and 12 months.

The Accotex NO-79201 (Fig. 1) is a new generation of aprons for ring and compactspinning machines. It is made of two aligned rubber compounds which deliver a high abrasion and crack resistant spinning apron. The mechanical robustness of the rubber compounds allows effective use on all ring and compact-spinning machines, working with all fiber types and within the whole spectrum of yarn counts. The excellent friction properties of the compound contribute to a smooth and even running over the whole service life of the apron, especially at the start-up of machines.

Superior friction behavior

The new Accotex NO-79201 was tested for 12 months at a customer in the USA, alongside the already existing NO-78210GX,

After 12 months running, the inner layer friction of the new NO-79201 is nearly unchanged, confirming the smooth and even running over the whole service life of the apron. This superior friction behavior has also been reported from other Accotex customers across the world, processing different fiber types, blends and yarn counts. Besides, these trial customers have noticed far fewer broken bottom aprons than they would normally expect.

Different versions for flexible use

The Accotex apron NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom aprons for all kinds of applications. It comes as closed apron, skived bottom apron or skived and preglued bottom apron. The NO79201 can be supplied with a plain inside or a specially configured inner layer pattern, known as a knurled version (Fig 3). The main

benefit of the knurled apron is to provide less contact area to the nose bar, which enables lower torque, and thus less stress on the bottom roller bearings. This also allows the inside structured apron to run clean on so-called “dirty” fibers and to work efficiently in demanding environmental conditions in terms of fiber cleanliness. The knurled apron is available with diameters of 72.5, 76.3 and 79.0 mm.

Overall, the new Accotex NO79201 spinning apron provides improved performance for ring and compact-spinning with less machine downtime. Its flexible application may also reduce stocking levels and simplify servicing regimes.

Figure 1: Accotex NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom apron for all kinds of applications.

Figure 2: The new apron NO-79201 shows nearly unchanged inner layer friction, confirming unmatched performance over time.

Figure 3: Accotex NO-79201 can also be supplied with a knurled inner layer, for increased service life.

Accotex Story

Processing of flame retardant textiles in industries

Dr. N.N. Mahapatra

The term flame retardant is used to describe fabrics which will not support combustion and are self –extinguishing. Fabrics of this type, when involved in an accidental fire would not contribute to spreading the flames. Other descriptions, such as flameproof, fireproof and flame resistant, are either meaningless or misleading. Nearly all fabrics are combustible to some degree. The rate of burning ranges from that of guncotton (nitrocellulose), which burns so quickly that it produces an explosion, to that of asbestos, which is virtually unaffected by the fire.

Flame retardant fabrics can be produced in two ways.

1. By making them of fibers which do not burn.

2. By chemically treating the fibers to produce the desired effect.

There was a time originally when such materials could only be produced by employing a chemical finish. However, this can often cause problems, in terms of the durability of the process and its impact on the environment.

Strict controls are required to achieve consistency and problems arise likewise with the final look of the material. Even where the flame–retardant quality is guaranteed over a certain number of washes, there can be no certainty of the effectiveness of the procedure, as it is practically impossible to monitor the number of washes in practice.

All such difficulties are avoided by the use of permanently modified chemical fibers. The polymer was invented in 1974. The development of staple fibers and filament took place in 1976-79. It was introduced in the USA in 1979 and in Europe in 1980. The permanent flame retardant properties were due to the organic phosphorous compound incorporated into the polymer chain. As it was a low-level modification the textile properties of the polymer remain unchanged. Fire Retardant polyester fiber came to India by Hoechst AG, Germany by the trade name of Trevira CS (CS stands for Comfort and Safety).

From the outset, there was also a large role for home textiles, today the most important sector for Trevira. The product range extends from drapes, decorative and upholstery fabrics, to carpet fibers. Yet here too

the portfolio began to change towards specialties early. In 1980 one such was Trevira CS, a flame retardant fiber, which from its launch recorded everrising growth rates and is today the star product of the company. With over 1000 flame retardant Trevira CS fabric collections for the home textiles sector worldwide, Trevira is the market leader in this segment. Since then the range of flame retardant fibers and yarns has undergone a steady flow of changes and innovations.

Figure: The term flame retardant is used to describe fabrics which will not support combustion and are self –extinguishing.

In 2004, Reliance crossed another milestone in its polyester journey when it acquired Trevira GmbH, an erstwhile division of the German giant Hoechst AG a leading producer of branded polyester fibers in Europe.

Specific moisture absorption of Trevira is around 0.4 % at 20 deg c and 65 % RH. It can however be made considerably higher by the hydrophilic surface of the material and the capillary effect between the fibers. Moisture penetration is very high, thus releasing humidity, something very important for instance for sitting comfortably. Trevira cs has been tested to German, American and Japanese health standards and been adjudged non-toxic, not allergenic or mutagenic and non-irritant. The Eco-Tex 100 test confirms that Trevira CS is free from harmful

substances. Trevira CS has three flame retardant mechanisms it melts away from the flame, absorbing ignition energy. Flame retardant groups quench reactive species, chain reactions cannot propagate. The polyester modification created by Trevira performs a very important function. Within a flame, highly charged elements called radicals are released which rapidly propagate more flames. The Trevira modification captures and neutralizes the radicals before they can propagate more flames.

Trevira belongs to the polyester group of fibers, which are rendered permanently flame-retardant by the inclusion of a small proportion of a phosphorous–organic component. They display all the typical properties of polyester fibers and offer industry and consumers considerable advantages. Hoechst (Germany) gave the license only to Rajasthan Spinning and Weaving Mills, Gulabpura (Rajasthan) to use this fiber in India. Trevira supplies 100% Trevira flame retardant fibers or filament yarns.

Trevira CS fabrics are made from flame retardant fibers and used therefore in the home textile and contract furnishing sectors. They are flame retardant to all appropriate fire protection requirements and produce only slight amounts of smoke fume. For the first time, the flame retardant qualities combine with bioactive properties to also provide safety from microbes. These qualities are not lost by cleaning, aging, or wear. Trevira cs is easy to care for light, fast, comfortable and kind to the skin. Trevira CS is used in hotels, and hospitals, in offices and event rooms and principally where people are traveling on aircraft, buses trains and at sea.

Following are the advantages of using Trevira:

1. Outstanding running properties in spinning and twisting.

2. Very good process ability, high yarn uniformity and tenacity for weaving, circular and warp knitting.

3. Excellent dyeability using a variety of methods, and environmentally friendly finish processes give crease-resistant fabrics with good shape retention. 4. Good hard–wearing properties. 5. Easy–care. 6. Outstanding light fastness. 7. Permanent flame retardance.

Following are the processes involved in making fire retardant textiles: 1.

The above process are discussed below.

1. Spinning – is classified into two types

• Grey CS yarn

• Dyed CS yarn

Grey fiber is normally available in 1.4 D x 44 mm. the spinning is done in the same manner as 100 % normal polyester fiber. The process is as follows.

Blow room – Carding – Draw frame – Simplex –Ringframe – Winding – TFO – Packing.

The grey yarn goes for weaving and making the soft package for yarn dyeing.

Secondly, the dyed fiber is received from Dyehouse. The dyed fiber is sprayed with LV 40 and 2152P and conditioned for 16 hrs. Then it follows a similar route in spinning as prescribed for 100 % dyed normal polyester fiber. The dyed yarn is sent to weaving / knitting.

Flame retardant Trevira CS spinning yarns can be used in any spinning process, resulting in outstanding with Ring spinning, OE –rotor and Airjet spinning, as well as with carded yarns and worsteds. A variety of effects is possible for which the product range includes dull, semi-dull and bright types. Extremely fine three-cylinder yarns are used in delicate fabrics, decorative materials and bed linens.

The OE –rotor yarns with a flat, soft structure form the basis for decorative fabrics, vertical blinds and mattress materials. The current demand for soft, transparent and bright yarns is particularly met by filament yarns of the high–capillary type for drapes and decorative fabrics. Degree of fineness range from 50 dtex with delicate goods through to 3000 dtex for cover fabrics with high wear and light fastness properties. With a false twist, yarn one can achieve light but bulky weaves.

The wide range of fire-retardant Trevira spun yarns enables spinners to offer a complete collection of yarns. They have a quality which is not only ideal for their purposes but is fire-retardant as well. The range comprises degrees of fineness for practically every application; from the finest (1.3 >1.7 dtex) for delicate fabrics right through to the extremely coarse (13 dtex) for carpets.

2. Bleaching – Bleaching is not required before dyeing dark and medium shades. It is almost white. But in the case of clear and pastel shades bleaching with peroxide is required before dying.

3. Dyeing – there are four types of dyeing

• Filament yarn dyeing

• Spun yarn dyeing

• Loose staple fiber dyeing

• Fabric dyeing

• Filament yarn dyeing– normally 165 dtex is

used in filament dyeing. Soft package of 700-800 gms is made on perforated poly propylene tubes by the precision soft winding machine having an overfed attachment. Then it is dyed in HTHP Dyeing machines at the temperature of 120 deg c. for 30-45 mins depending on shades.

It is Hydroextracted in Dettin package Hydroextractor. It is dried in RF Dryer. It is reminded on a paper cone. The dyed package goes for Weaving or Knitting. The principal applications for flat yarns are in curtains and decorative fabrics, irrespective of whether these are false twists, jet –tex, jet-tweed, multicolor, or chenille yarns. A further possibility involves the use of texturized filament yarns, where a very wool-like character can be achieved with especially air–textured types for furniture fabrics.

• Spun yarn dyeing– Similarly spun yarn is made in various counts ranging from 2/5, 2/8, 2/12, and 2/20. 2/24.,2/30.2/50. Then a soft package is made on ps Mettler or SSM winding machines. Package weight is 900 gms to 1 kg. It is loaded in HTHP dyeing machines. It is dyed at 120 deg c. The rest process is as above. An even wider range of design perspectives is opened up by combining filament and fiber yarns. Employing fancy yarns, such as knit-deknit types, produces striking designs. Jet-tex and tweed types are mainly used as upholstery and decorative material and as wall coverings.

• Loose staple fiber dyeing – Normally 1.7 d x 44 mm Trevirs CS fiber is available for dyeing. The CS fiber is loaded in the carrier. Then the loaded carrier goes into the HTHP Dyeing Machines. It is dyed at 120 deg c. at a pH of 4-5 with a leveling agent like Lyogen DFT (of Clariant) is added. Dark shades are reduction cleared with Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydrosulphite. (1 GPL and 2 GPL respectively). Then hot wash at 85-90 deg c. Then acid is neutralized by acetic acid. Then Antistatic Agent Sapcotex F (Henkel) – 0.4 % (o w g) Then the carrier is offloaded. The dyed fiber goes for Hydroextraction. Then it is dried in RF Dryer / Steam Dryer.

Total Dyeing time takes about 4-4.5 hrs With a 40 deg c wash, there are no discernible differences between normal polyester and Trevira CS fibers. At 60 deg c with the same dyeing similar values are achieved on flame retardants as on non-modified types.

• Fabric Dyeing – Trevira CS fabric is dyed in jet dyeing machines. The process is followed as above. After dyeing it is squeezed and dried in stenter at a lower temperature of 140 deg c to 150 deg c. Dispersion dyes take on fire–retardant somewhat faster than the corresponding normal polyester types. Due to this light shades can be dyed at boiling temperature without adding a carrier. Medium to dark shades are dyed without a carrier at a

maximum temperature of 120 deg c. Disperse dyes used are high-energy dyes from Dystar, Germany known as Dianix FG dyes or Foron RD dyes from Clariant, Basle. In raw white for piece dyeing or as multicolored yarns, flame retardant textiles can be made in all desired qualities. In general dyeing with colored and patterned fabric results in adequate wash fastness. Preliminary tests are recommended however as there is a possibility of staining adjacent material. Dyes on Trevira cs are fast to washing at boiling temperatures in bright shades and with selected dyestuff. Chlorine –a fast finish is possible with the appropriate dyestuffs. Boiling is not recommended for drapes and decorative fabrics.

• Finishing – Selection of softeners is very critical. It has to be seen there is no negative effects on burning behavior. Leomin ni of Clariant is the recommended softener to be used for cs fabrics in the dose level from 1 to 5 GPL. Trevira CS materials may be coated with PVC or polyurethane. An antimicrobial or fungicide finish is possible with Dodigen (from Clariant) or Afrotin LC (the Schill and Seilacher Company). Whilst maintaining the relevant fire category.

Whilst being processed Trevira cs fabrics can be exposed for brief periods to temperatures above 210 deg c. where they are exposed to temperatures for longer times, we recommend a maximum of 150 deg c in dry atmospheres and 100 deg c in humid conditions. With flame–retardant types in deep shades the fastness properties reduce by ½ degree as compared to dyes on normal types.

• Printing – Pigment printing is not recommended for Trevirs CS fabrics because the use of binder and thickeners influence the flame retardant properties negatively.

Transfer printing can be done on Trevira CS fabrics. Any papers printed with dispersion dyestuffs can be employed. Checks should first be made to ensure the Light Fastness of the dyestuffs involved is adequate. Varnish should not be used as part of the residue may adhere to the fabric in printing and exercise a negative effect of the flame-retardant behavior on Trevira CS material.

Wear properties of Trevira CS fabrics

1. Stability – very good.

2. Abrasion resistance – > 60,000 Martindale

3. Durability – very good.

4. Light- fastness – 7-8.

5. UV-Stability Hrs – 80 % (1400 Xenotest)

6. Washability – 60 deg c.

7. Stain removal – very good.

8. Trevira CS fabrics satisfy all the relevant and important fire protection standards.

Removing toxic chromium from wastewater by raw and chitosantreated banana and areca fiber

Md. Akhtarujjaman Tony

A study was conducted to find out the optimum parameters such as contact time, initial concentration, pH, and adsorbent dose for removing hexavalent chromium from the wastewater of the textile and leather industries by the use of biodegradable composites made from the combinations of Banana and Areca fibers treated with Chitosan.

Introduction

Bangladesh is heading towards becoming a fashion sourcing hub with the significant improvement of its textile and apparel industry. The rising textile, apparel, and leather industries are also responsible for the drastic pollution of the environment. Especially, water pollution caused by the wastewater of the textile and tannery which contains heavy metals like Chromium has become a major concern for the health-safety of local people. Among various chemicals used in the textile and leather industry, this Chromium is a dangerous substance that is responsible for damaging our liver, kidney, and nervous system, and causes irregular heart rhythms. In the plants, it affects the germination, shoot growth, leaf growth, and production of fruits and flowers. Hexavalent chromium is so toxic that even its low concentration in drinking water and food could be fatal to animals and plants.

These reasons create an appeal of removing this harmful substance from the wastewater generated from the textile and tannery industries so that it can not be accumulated in animals and plants. Various methods can be used to remove heavy metal ions like this Chromium such as chemical precipitation, ion exchange, adsorption, membrane filtration, electrochemical treatment technologies, biosorption, etc.

The study was conducted by Professor Dr. Hosne Ara Begum, Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles and A. K. M. Monjurul Haque Nirjhar, Superintendent, Ministry of Textiles and Jute, Government of the Peopole's Republic of Bangladesh at Textile Vocational Institute, Cumilla along with some other authors.

The study found that the optimum pH range for best adsorption of the chromium by these biodegradable composites is 2.5 to 4.5 with a contact time of 30 to 180 minutes. Various combinations of Chitosan with Banana and Areca were used in the experiments in a 30:70, 50:50, and 70:30 ratio to find the optimum one. The optimum adsorption of Chromium capacity was recorded with the composite of Chitosan and Banana at a 70:30 ratio, with a pH of 4 and a contact time of 180 minutes.

Adsorption is the adhesion of atoms, ions, or molecules from a gas, liquid, or dissolved solid to a surface. It is now recognized as an effective and economic method for removing heavy metals from wastewater. In addition, adsorption is sometimes reversible and adsorbents can be regenerated by removing the metals from the adsorbents with suitable desorption processes.

Chitosan is a very effective substance to capture the Chromium from a solution. It has been found that in an acidic pH condition, preferably below pH 3, about 90% of the metals can be removed from a solution regardless of the initial concentration and adsorbent dose. Cr (VI) exists predominantly as HCrO4- in an aqueous solution at a pH of below 4. As the amino groups of Chitosan are protonated at this pH, electrostatic interaction occurs between

Figure: Water pollution caused by the wastewater of the textile and tannery which contains heavy metals like Chromium has become a major concern for the health-safety of local people.

the Chitosan and HCrO4- ions resulting in a high chromium removal from the aqueous solution. Banana and Areca fibers treated with Chitosan can also capture Chromium from an aqueous solution.

Materials

Raw materials and chemicals used in these experiments are Prawn shells (for Chitosan), Banana fiber, Areca fiber, Sodium hydroxide, Acids, Oxidizing agents, and Water.

Methodology

Digestion of sample:

For the quantitative analysis of Cr, samples were digested following the aqua regain extraction process recommended by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

Total heavy metals concentration measurement:

After digestion, the samples were analyzed for metals Cr with a Perkin-Elmer atomic absorption spectrometer (Model-An Analyst 800, USA). A specific hollow cathode lamp was used to determination of Cr at 357.9 nm wavelength.

Preparation of composites:

To prepare the composite of Chitosan (CH) and fiber 1% (w/v) Chitosan solution was prepared by dissolving Chitosan in a 1% (v/v) aqueous acetic acid solution and stirred with a magnetic stirrer for 30 minutes to dissolve Chitosan. Then 1gm fiber was added to the Chitosan solution. After that, the fiber was separated from the Chitosan solution and ovendried for 24 hours at 60°C. Various compositions of the fibers and the Chitosan were made as follows:

Composition

Here, Q is the adsorption capacity metal ion absorbed per gram of adsorbent, Co and Ce is the initial and final concentration respectively, M is the mass of the adsorbent (in mg) and v is the volume of chromium solution taken for the adsorption study (in litter).

Results and discussion

From the experiments it was found that the untreated Banana and Areca fibers’ optimum adsorption of Chromium was 3.65 ppm (9.1%) at 180 min, pH of 4.5 and 140 mg adsorbent dose size and 3.76 ppm (9.4%) at 180 min, pH of 4.5 and 160 mg adsorbent dose size respectively. In the case of Chitosan-treated Banana fiber, it increased for 30:70 combination to 28.785 ppm, for 50:50 combination to 30.057 ppm, and for 70:30 combination to 31.574 ppm. For Chitosan treated Areca fiber, it increased, for 30:70 combination to 29.512 ppm, for 50:50 combination to 30.156 ppm, and 70:30 combination to 32.074 ppm. Optimum Chromium adsorption has been recorded at 110.7 mg/g Chitosan: Banana (70:30) at the pH of 4 and contact time of 180 minutes.

The optimum pH, contact time, and adsorbent dose has been found from the test results of the samples developed in the experiments. The ratio of Chitosan and Banana or Areca in the samples were respectively 30:70, 50:50, and 70:30.

All the three combinations of Chitosan with the Banana and Areca fibers show the highest adsorption in the pH range of 3.5 to 4.5 in the test results.

Chitosan (%) Banana Fiber (%) Areca Fiber (%)

Chitosan/Banana (50:50) 50 50 -

Chitosan/Banana (70:30) 70 30 -

All the three combinations of Chitosan with the Banana and Areca fibers show the highest contact time range of 160 to 180 minutes in the test results.

Chitosan/Banana (30:70) 30 70Chitosan/Areca (50:50) 50 - 50 Chitosan/ Areca (70:30) 70 - 30 Chitosan/Areca (30:70) 30 - 70

Batch studies:

Various batch experiments were carried out to evaluate the influence of pH, contact time, and adsorbent dose on the removal of Chromium from an aqueous solution.

The amount of Chromium adsorbed per unit of adsorbent powder was calculated according to the following equations.

%Removal=(C_o-C_c)/C_o ×100 ……………… (1)

Q=(C_o-C_e)/M×V ……………………………………………… (2)

All the three combinations of Chitosan with the Banana and Areca fibers show the highest adsorbent dose range of 140 to 160 gm in the test results.

Conclusion

As these biodegradable combinations of Chitosantreated Banana and Areca fibers have demonstrated successful removal of Chromium from the aqueous solution they can also be used to treat textile and leather industry wastewater. And further studies should be carried out to measure the effectiveness of the same combinations to remove other toxic heavy metals like Pb, Cd, As, and Cu.

Card C 80: high productivity with a challenging raw material

The potential for recycling applications is huge –as are the challenges during processing. The card plays a decisive role in the yarn production process by opening and cleaning the material. The C 80 is perfectly equipped for recycling applications. The machine runs with high production rates and allows good quality yarn to be manufactured even with a high proportion of post-consumer material.

In a direct comparison at a customer spinning mill, the card C 80 with a production rate of 270 kilograms per hour achieved around four times the production rate of an older model of a competitor machine. 70% cotton and 30% post-consumer material were used as the material blend for producing rotor yarn with a count of Ne 12. Despite the high production rate of the C 80, the yarn quality was significantly better than the limit value defined by the customer. The thoroughly prepared fiber material also resulted in greater efficiency for the rotor spinning machine. The number of ends down was between 118 and 156 per 1 000 rotor hours. The finished product also convinced with its appearance and quality (Fig. 1).

75% lower energy consumption

The significantly higher production rate with very good sliver quality enabled the customer to use fewer cards during production and therefore to make considerable savings on energy costs. With a production rate of 270 kilograms per hour, the card C 80 replaced four cards with a working width of one meter. Energy consumption at the same production volume therefore decreased by 75%, which is

equivalent to USD 40 000 per year.

Raw material with 90% post-consumer material

Another customer processed a blend of 90% recycled, bleached cotton from postconsumer material and 10% polyester for its rotor yarn with a count of Ne 8 to Ne 24. With this challenging material blend and a yarn count of Ne 9, the card C 80 achieved a production rate of 120 kilograms per hour. In a direct comparison with the previous model C 70, with the same working width of 1.5 meters, the C 80 can achieve double the production rate and a higher yarn quality. Yarn imperfections are reduced by around 50% with the C 80.

Tailor-made Graf clothings

Specially developed Graf clothings are used for processing recycling material. The material is thoroughly pre-separated with a sawtooth clothing on the licker-in unit. Non-compliant materials, such as unopened pieces of fabric, are efficiently eliminated at the mote knife of the licker-in. With the freely adjustable position setting Trade Press Article Rieter Trade Press Article: C 80 Recycling, July 2022 Page 2/3 of the mote knife and the lickerin speed, the quantity of waste can be easily set on the display and therefore specifically adjusted to the requirements of the material.

Proven benefits for all raw materials

The C 80 is the card with the largest active carding area on the market (Fig. 2). The working width of 1.5 meters and 40 active flats of the C 80 are key advantages also for recycled material with a low separation level and a high number of neps. The longest pre- and post-carding zones can be individually equipped and configured to suit the raw material. The reliable web guide with optimally designed guide lips provides a flawless card sliver that is compacted in three stages. This is very important due to the high short-fiber content of recycled materials and the high delivery speeds. Thanks to these benefits, the card sliver of the C 80 also offers the optimal condition for a ring yarn made of recycling materials. This considerably increases the range of potential recycling products.

Figure 1: The denim fabric made of 70% cotton and 30% postconsumer material was of a flawless quality

Figure 2: The card C 80 offers outstanding performance and high-quality card sliver

Rieter Story

Textile and Jute Ministry moves for blended education action plan

Staff Correspondent

Ministry of Textile and Jute organized a day-long workshop for finalizing the ‘blended education action plan’. The chief guest was the Secretary of textile and jute ministry, Md. Abdur Rouf and special guest was Additional Secretary of textile and jute ministry, Abul Kalam, NDC. Hosne Ara, Director of education, was the conductor of the program.

Abul Kalam, NDC, stated that the students should be able to do competition globally. They need to be prepared properly. After the covid-19 hit, the online class was a good option for continuing the education system. He advised working on the program properly so that we can continue to grow.

The vision of this program is to establish a textile education system by which the student competes and helps the international market. Also, contribute to the nation and build an innovative Bangladesh. There are six lac foreign managers overall. To have a better impact on the industry the students are needed to be prepared.

Also, the action plan is planned to be done in the high, low-tech and no-tech systems, so that it can

cover remote areas to. Also, textile education can’t be done fully online as it has some lab activities and real-time operations to check.

After sharing the ideas, the six individual groups completed a brainstorming session. The six components are teaching-learning, content and other learnings, Continuous and summative assessment, Teacher’s ability development, and Inclusion infrastructure.

They are different people in the group from different institutes

and different advisory from other departments.

After the workshop, the groups disclosed their presentation and took feedback from other groups and individuals. After the final drafting they will set the next steps. It will be sent to the national taskforce. Representative from different vocational institutes, private — like Daffodil University, BUFT, NITER, AUST–public universities–like Butex, JUST, DUET– and others were present in the program.

Figure 1: Ministry of Textile and Jute organized a day long workshop for finalizing the ‘blended education action plan’.

Figure 2: The vision of this program is to establish a textile education system by which the student competes and help the international market.

Packaging producer investing Tk5,000 crore in Bangabandhu Shilpa Nagar

Sabbir Hossain

Aiming to meet the national packaging demand local packagers and accessory-makers are going to invest Tk5,000 crore in Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar. This move will also lift the direct packaging export. The packagers will begin the construction of the factory after getting certain authorizations from Beza.

The Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (Beza) has already approved the investment and allotted 25 acres of land to the packagers.

Md Moazzem Hossain Moti, President of the Bangladesh Garments Accessories & Packaging Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA), said that around 1,900 members of the association need at least 100 acres of land for the investment, which the association estimates will generate 4,000 jobs.

BGAPMEA has set a target to provide packaging support to the garment village, and boost packaging and accessory export at the same time.

The new packaging factories in the industrial city will manufacture polybags, plastic hangers, different types of threads, twill tapes, drawstrings, padding and quilting tapes and zippers.

According to the association, there are now around 1,900 packagers and accessory-manufacturing units, mostly in Gazipur and Narayanganj. The factories supply 40 types of products,

Almost 1900 factories produce 40 types of products

such as buttons, plastic hangers, polybags, labels, zippers, tags, tapes, thread, ribbon, rivets, laces, hooks, transfer film, paper, and ink, to export-oriented readymade garment industries.

This backward linkage sector is able to meet the overall packaging demand of the local RMG and leather sectors.

Besides, local packagers provide backward linkage support to leather, pharmaceuticals, home textile, rice and crockeries.

The packaging industry exported $7 billion in the last fiscal year through the apparel channel, while annual direct packaging export to 18 countries soars around $1 billion, according to BGAPMEA.

As the global packaging market is around $800 billion, so, Bangladesh has a great scope to

Annual direct packaging export to 18 countries soars around $1 bn

It is the biggest and first ecoindustrial city of Bangladesh

The investment will meet the national packaging demand

Global packaging market is around $800 bn

enhance its presence in the global packaging market.

Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar (BSMSN) is located at a distance of 10km from Mirsarai on the Dhaka-Chattogram Highway and 60km from the port city. It is being constructed on a contagious 33,000 acres of land on the seashore in Ichakhali, Charsharat, Char Mosharraf and Sadhur Char. It is the country's largest industrial city. There will be a garment village at the industrial city spanning 500 acres of land. BSMSN will be the first ‘green’ or eco-industrial city in the country in terms of nature, energy system, and waste management. It has been designed to address five central elements of industrial development: governance, economy, ecology, resources, and community.

Tk5,000

crore in Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar

Buttons, Plastic Hangers, Polybags, Labels, Zippers, Tags, Tapes, Thread, Ribbon, Rivets, Laces

Cotton yarn prices remain steady in north India

Desk Report

Cotton yarn prices were stable in north Indian markets of Delhi and Ludhiana today as demand remained average. There was no support for price rise in yarn markets, which are still facing tight liquidity. The recycled yarn market in Panipat also noted stable prices. However, the market hopes that better buying will prevail in next few weeks.

30 count combed yarn was traded at ₹370-375 per kg (GST extra), 40 count combed at ₹405-410 per kg, 30 count carded at ₹320-325 per kg and 40 count carded at ₹360365 per kg, according to a market insight tool TexPro.

Cotton yarn prices remained

unchanged in Ludhiana market amid limited buying. Liquidity problem is still visible. According to the traders, further months can bring better buying in the entire textile value chain. Current buying might not be so encouraging but it will improve in further fortnight. In Ludhiana, 30 count cotton combed yarn was sold at ₹370375 per kg (GST inclusive), as per TexPro.

20 and 25 count combed yarn were traded at ₹360-365 per kg and ₹365-370 per kg respectively. Carded yarn of 30 count was quoted at ₹330-335 per kg.

There was no significant movement in prices of recycled

yarn in Panipat as demand remained very limited. According to the traders, buyers are still waiting for reliable signals of higher buying in downstream industries.

Meanwhile, cotton prices further gained in north India on negligible arrival. According to traders, limited trade took place by ginners and stockists.

Cotton was traded at ₹9,5009,800 per maund of 37.2 kg in Punjab, ₹8,800-9,500 per maund in Haryana and ₹9,400-9,800 per maund in upper Rajasthan. The cotton was sold at ₹88,00090,000 per candy in lower Rajasthan.

Asia Apparel Expo creates business opportunities for Bangladeshi companies

Textile Today Report

Asia Apparel Expo, 2022 has created opportunities to expand network and business for Bangladeshi companies who participated in the fair. A report of the news agency BSS released this news recently.

The expo held from 5 to 7 July in Messe Berlin Exhibition Ground, Berlin, Germany where some Bangladeshi apparel exporters took part to get business opportunities and enhance their networks with global customers.

Md Mosharraf Hossain Bhuiyan, Ambassador of Bangladesh to Germany visited the fair and spoke to each and every exhibitor from Bangladesh and inspected their stalls. He expressed his satisfaction over the level of variety and quality of the items showcased.

He mentioned that total Bangladeshi exports to Germany are at its highest ever and reached 7.5 billion this year. This positive trend is

expected to continue, he added.

Commercial counsellor of Bangladesh Embassy in Berlin, Md Saiful Islam, said that after two years of pandemic period ComAsia Ltd., the organizers arranged the 9th edition of Asia Appeared Expo 2022. Last edition was held in 2019.

Asia is the world’s number one producer for apparel products. More than 400 exhibitors from nine Asian countries (Bangladesh, China, Hong Kong, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Thailand and

Vietnam) participated. Thirtythree companies from Bangladesh registered this year.

Berlin, as a key fashion capital located in the center of Europe, combined with Asian manufacturers which lead the world with their investment in factories, supply chain infrastructure, and training of the labor force employed in their apparel and associated industries provide the ideal connection to expand trading between East and West.

Figure: Asia Apparel Expo, 2022 has created opportunities to expand network and business for Bangladeshi companies.

EPIC Group and CleanKore announce bold plans to advance sustainable denim

Textile Today Report

The partnership will aim at eliminating hazardous Potassium Permanganate Spray and most manual processes in denim finishing, while reducing Greenhouse Gas emissions, water and chemical use in the process July 18, 2022.

CleanKore technology coupled with lasers enable elimination of the PP spray process, significantly improving health and wellbeing of apparel workers, as well as emissions of harmful chemicals.

Manual processes are eliminated in most styles and significantly reduced in others. CleanKore technology also enables the reduction of wash cycles – reducing water, chemical use and process time, adding to the sustainability credentials of the end products.

The products currently tested by Epic Group and CleanKore demonstrate up to 44% of water savings in garment finishing and up to 60% of energy savings in the fabric dyeing stage, along with the elimination of PP spray.

Hong Kong based Epic Group, a leading garment manufacturer for global brands announced its strategic partnership with CleanKore, a denim innovation and patent licensing company.

This partnership aims at scaling the CleanKore patented yarn dyeing technology that provides numerous sustainability benefits for both the denim mill and garment manufacturer.

CleanKore patented technology changes the chemistry and the process used to dyeing yarns at the denim mills by keeping intact the white core of the yarn and only dyeing the surface.

This technology significantly reduces water, chemicals and process time in the denim garment finishing stage. Denim garment finishing often involves onerous manual processes such as handsanding and hand whiskering, spraying of harmful Potassium Permanganate (PP) (done by heavily protective equipment donned personnel), and multiple washing cycles.

Through their partnership, Epic Group and CleanKore are planning to rapidly scale the adoption in partnership with Epic Group’s customer base. In the first year, the partnership plans to reach over 4 million pairs of denim and working towards a scale of 15 - 20 million pairs of denim per annum in the next 3 years, converting a large portion of Epic Group’s denim production to CleanKore technology.

Speaking on the partnership Darryl Costin Jr, President and CEO, CleanKore emphasized that, “As a company committed to sustainability we could not have asked for a better partner to scale our

Figure 1: Hong Kong based Epic Group, a leading garment manufacturer for global brands announced its strategic partnership with CleanKore, a denim innovation and patent licensing company.

Figure 2: CleanKore’s patented technology is an exciting and novel approach to dyeing yarns at the denim mill.

As a leading global denim manufacturer committed to improve sustainability in product and process, we work with breakthrough technologies that reduce negative impacts to the planet and the people.”

Potassium Permanganate spray a norm in the manufacturing industry.

Ranjan Mahtani, Chairman, Epic Group said, “As a leading global denim manufacturer committed to improve sustainability in product and process, we work with breakthrough technologies that reduce negative impacts to the planet and the people.”

fabrics, and since 2005 as a stateof-the-art manufacturing company with facilities worldwide.

According to the company, we have a global footprint across Africa, Asia, UAE, the UK, Jordan, & United States. Through a passionate and driven team of people, we enable our global retailers to deliver on their consumer expectations.

Ranjan Mahtani Chairman, Epic Group

ground-breaking technology. Epic Group has a phenomenal team from top to bottom who are completely aligned with our goals. Unlike other technologies, we are thrilled to offer a much more sustainable product to consumers that is cost neutral.”

With Epic Group they are moving to make elimination of toxic

CleanKore technology offers a fantastic value proposition of significant sustainability benefits to our associates and the environment, without increasing the cost. Sustainable products should be scalable – not niche, and we will rapidly scale the adoption of this technology, he added.

CleanKore coupled with Epic Group’s advanced technologies such as laser and low-liquor ratio washing machines will create a new benchmark for sustainably manufactured denim.

Epic Group has been a key player in the apparel industry, first as a major textiles trading house, then as a leader in sourcing quality

Besides that, they use modern technologies, insights, and trends to provide a partnership approach to our relationships.

CleanKore’s patented technology is an exciting and novel approach to dyeing yarns at the denim mill.

This technique goes against the grain when compared to conventional dyeing. The result is a large and circular bright white core with a small ring of indigo dye.

CleanKore is proven to significantly reduce costs throughout the supply chain while improving sustainability, including the elimination of Potassium Permanganate spray.

Pacsun introduces new range of denim

Desk Report

California-based retailer Pacsun introduced a new logo and branding for its denim ranges with an extensive IRL and virtual campaign to promote its jeans.

Along with 200+ new styles for fall 2022 include a wider array of “anything goes” denims from low-rise to mid-rise, flare, bootcut, cargo, balloon, straight, mom, relaxed and beyond. Trends driving the new ranges include genderless designs, 90s nostalgia and workwear.

Pacsun president Brie Olson said, “With the exit from skinny jeans accelerating quickly postpandemic, there has been a range of leg shapes trending as well as heavier, less stretch and nonstretch denim gaining popularity.”

Figure: California-based retailer Pacsun introduced a new logo and branding for its denim ranges with an extensive IRL and virtual campaign to promote its jeans.

Seeking to become a go-to denim destination for Gen Z, Pacsun is launching a vast back-to-school campaign #MyDenimStory in stores, online and on social media. Besides that, store merchandising, decors and window displays will highlight the denim campaign. Select stores will also feature Bear sculptures made from recycled

jeans. The campaign will extend into the metaverse, as Pacsun has partnered with DressX to offer virtual try-on experiences for key denim styles.

Notably, the retailer will open a Denim Shop in its Pacworld on Roblox and produce a Pac Mall Rat NFT denim mini-series with unlockable content. Finally and will paired with a commemorative digital token (NFT).

"Through this campaign, we wanted to develop new styles that enable our consumers to channel the best versions of themselves. Denim is so versatile, and it's incredible to see how people express their mood and embrace their personality with different fits and styling," Olson added.

Industries to remain shut once a week under rationing system

Bangladesh government has decided to keep all Industrial factories closed once a week under an area-wise rationing system. The government declarer it in a bid to minimize load shedding.

“Industries of different areas will remain closed on different days of the week,” said State Minister for Power, Energy and Mineral Resources Nasrul Hamid after a meeting with business leaders at Bidyut Bhaban in the capital on 7 August.

He also said that it will be possible to provide uninterrupted power supply across the country from October. The demand for power will come down by October in the advent of winter season in the country. So, the problem of load shedding will be resolved,” the state minister added it saying that the rationing system for industrial operation will save 500-550 megawatts of electricity a day.

Earlier on 18 July, the government announced onehour load shedding across the country as part of an austerity measures to reduce foreign currency spending by limiting energy consumption. The government also halted electricity production at all diesel-run power plants and directed closure of shops and markets by 8pm daily.

Bangladesh-Turkiye form Business

Forum to spread bilateral relations

Desk Report

Eleven Bangladeshi and six Turkish companies have come together and decided to establish the new BangladeshTürkiye Business Forum (BTBF) at a meeting hosted by the Turkish embassy in Dhaka on 5th August.

According to a press release of Turkish embassy, BTBF will condense support for bilateral trade, investments, and cultural encounters, also act as an advocacy platform promoting bilateral relations between Bangladesh and Türkiye.

The list of BTBF founding members include Rubana Huq, MD of Mohammadi Group and VC of AUW; Salahuddin Kasem Khan, chairman, EC of Board, Ak Khan and Co Ltd; Kazi Zahedul Hasan, founder and MD of Kazi Farms Group and Ercüment Polat, CEO of United Aygaz LPG Ltd, among others.

Rubana Huq, following her election as the BTBF chairperson, said, “May this forum strengthen bilateral ties, expedite connections and optimise potential. The business to business and people to people connection will surely offer more opportunities to explore at both ends.”

Also, BTBF will soon be legally constituted to

perform its activities through its working groups on trade, investment and cultural activities. A research and data cell will also be created within its secretariat to develop collaboration with experts and relevant institutions. Gender balance will be encouraged in the membership and leadership structure of BTBF.

Salahuddin Kasem Khan, as the BTBF co-chairperson and honorary consul general of Türkiye in Chattogram said, “The Forum is significant as some of the oldest and largest corporates of Bangladesh and Türkiye are represented.”

Mustafa Osman Turan, ambassador of the Republic of Türkiye to Bangladesh, said, “From now on, there is a new powerful business platform who will rebrand Türkiye in Bangladesh and Bangladesh in Türkiye so that our people can get to know each other better and tap into their full potential through partnerships and joint projects.”

A BTBF delegation is planning to visit Türkiye in September 2022 to meet with the Turkish government and business representatives and to explore opportunities for collaboration.

Figure: Nasrul Hamid, State Minister for Power, Energy and Mineral Resources.

Made in Bangladesh tag has reached a good height in the global market. In the industry, we need more research and development in order to be sustainable. The collaboration with universities will help this more.”

Rajibul Huq Chowdhury Managing Director, RH Corporation

Ibrahim Khalil

A better synchronization can surely be beneficial for universities and industries. Aiming to strengthen the relation between industry and academy a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) has been signed between Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology (AUST) and RH Corporation (A sister concern of Aziz Group). They will jointly drive the collaboration in R&D and training activities.

Treasurer of AUST, Prof. Dr. Mustafizur Rahman and RH Corporation's Managing Director Rajibul Huq Chowdhury signed the MoU at AUST Conference Hall, Tejgaon on 26 July. The MoU set a significant milestone for closer research collaboration and close partnership between RH Corporation and the Department of Textile Engineering, AUST.

Rajibul Huq Chowdhury said, "Made in Bangladesh tag has reached a good height in the global market. In the industry, we need more research and development in order to be sustainable. The collaboration

AUST partners with RH Corporation to strengthen industryacademia collaboration

with universities will help this more. With this, the corporations will also learn about the present culture of the universities and get benefit from the students came up with ideas and sustainable development."

ASM Hafizur Rahman Nixon, Executive Direction of RH Corporation said, "These steps are for the contribution for development. CHT has most of the sustainable products, which are from fiber to garments. There will be a new product--C2C-a biodegradable product. The students can take advantage of the lab facilities that we have in our building. We can say that our building is a mini-industry.”

“There is a big gap between the industry and the students. The printing and washing sections need more graduates to bring forward the sector. If the students get familiarized with the latest technology, it will be helpful for them,” he added.

Prof. Dr Muhammad Fazli Ilahi, Vice Chancellor of AUST, has

“

These steps are for the contribution for development. CHT has most of the sustainable products, which are from fiber to garments. There will be a new product-C2C--a biodegradable product. The students can take advantage of the lab facilities that we have in our building. We can say that our building is a mini-industry.”

ASM Hafizur Rahman Nixon Executive Direction of RH Corporation

said, "I have seen that foreign countries have established collaborations with universities and they are getting advantage of it. Universities are staying behind, as the industry always moves with the latest technologies.

“ “

I have seen that foreign countries have established collaborations with universities and they are getting advantage of it. Universities are staying behind, as the industry always moves with the latest technologies. The students should all of these technologies and also keep them updated.

they need to collaborate with the industry. Hope this MoU will play a good role between AUST and RH Corporation."

Prof. Dr Mustafizur Rahman, Treasurer of AUST, has said, "This MoU ceremony is a great event for AUST. The collaboration will ensure a good sharing of the knowledge as well as strengthen our industry. We need to build our own technology to keep continue the progress."

RH Corporation is a leading innovative & sustainable Chemical & Dyes, Machines & Auxiliaries, Service & Spare solutions company for the textile industry. With its teams, RH Corporation has been serving customers both of national and international repute, for more than 50 years.

This MoU ceremony is a great event for AUST. The collaboration will ensure a good sharing of the knowledge as well as strengthen our industry. We need to build our own technology to keep continue the progress."

collaboration a success.

The students should all of these technologies and also keep them updated. Knowledge from courses and books is not enough. As they will serve the industry later,

AUST aims to train hundreds of its students by taking advantage of the state-of-art textile testing machinery and digital learning platform of RH Corporation. They are looking forward to utilizing the knowledge and expertise of RH Corporation in education, training and technology to make this

The MoU will enable cooperation between Dept. of Textile Engineering, AUST and RH Corporation and to strengthen the relationship between the two organizations by developing collaboration in research and development and training activities.

Newly developed and re-engineered products exhibited at BUFT premises

On August 4, 2022, the students of Batch-191 from the Department of Apparel Manufacturing and Technology (AMT) staged a day-long exhibition named “The Impressive Catalogue-Spring 2022” at the BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT) campus.

Hridika Nusrat Kuntala, Lecturer, Department of Apparel Manufacturing and Technology, was the supervisor overseeing the expo. The event provided a platform for student projects, both newly developed and re-engineered.

This exhibition showcases students’ designs on a variety of apparel goods in an effort

to inspire the next generation of designers. It was our Bengali history, culture, art and traditional fabric as well as nature, sustainability and many more that provided inspiration for these outfits.

The collection contained ‘Wedding Lahenga and Sherwani’ made of our traditional silk fabric ornamented with ‘Jessore Stitch’, garments using Sublimation pattern, Zero-waste pattern, outfits’ ornamented with “Hand paint combination with Nakshikatha design” etc.

Besides outfit design on ethical issues like ‘Deprived life of fishermen’, ‘Graffiti art on unemployment problem’, ‘Stop

the war’, ‘Women Empowerment’ also grabbed the attention of the audience and praised anonymously.

The show also included noteworthy denim pieces, such as terracotta art on denim through laser print and patchwork on old denim garments using wastage denim fabric and so on.

Prof. Dr Muhammad Fazli Ilahi Vice Chancellor of AUST

Prof. Dr Mustafizur Rahman Treasurer of AUST

BUFT Correspondent

IDFL officially unveils another testing lab in Bangladesh

Textile Today Report

International Down and Feather Laboratory & Institute (IDFL), one of the world’s leading testing services companies –has officially launched another global laboratory in Bangladesh. In a grand opening ceremony held in a hotel on 2 August in the capital they inaugurated the modern lab and testing institute in Tejgaon, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

IDFL is a third-party textile certification business that does lab testing, certifications, audits, research and development, training, inspections, consulting and many other related services to the textile industry.

IDFL-- Founded in 1978-- is the global leader in auditing and testing for filled textile products like outerwear and bedding like content/composition, species, thermal testing, and cleanliness of filling material, fill power, down proof and poly migrations tests.

IDFL already has offices in Salt Lake City, Switzerland, China, Taipei, Vietnam, Turkey, India, and Pakistan. And now they have opened their laboratory and institute in Bangladesh. IDFL Bangladesh provides inspection, audit, testing, and consulting services to clients across Bangladesh.

More than 200 professionals from Textile mills and certification bodies were present at the grand opening ceremony. IDFL Bangladesh highlighted their transparency, their value to the customers there. They have mentioned why they are unique. Also, they have handed over certificates to their apparel manufacturing clients.

Wilf Leiber, CEO of IDFL, started his speech by giving

a glimpse of the history of IDFL and its growth. He also said about IDFL’s speedy service that is responsive to their clients whenever they need help.

James Moore, Vice President of IDFL Asia, stated about IDFL and its services. He has added that, IDFL is different as it has two different area of strength. One is super-fast service and another one is super fantastic service. The super-fast service has an integration of IDFL technical systems which helps the supply chain to become smoother. On the other hand, the super fantastic service meant the services that stops unmet expectations of the clients.

Jeff Dirks, Commercial Officer of US Embassy, Dhaka, said, “The global supply chain has not yet recovered fully after the covid-19 pandemic. The shipping has become more expensive and more difficult. Also, inflation is hitting every economy, also in Bangladesh.”

He also mentioned to the manufacturers to work with value added products like high-end-jackets.

One of the most important services IDFL has been offering for over a year and throughout Covid is Supply Chain Audits/Certification programs like TE, GOTS, OBP and many others. IDFL is very interested in getting to know clients and working with them to provide the fastest, most efficient and reliable services in the area.

IDFL performs about 20,000 tests annually for retailer clients like IKEA, Adidas, Columbia, and various government departments for import and export and is a subcontractor for other third-party laboratories.

Figure: International Down and Feather Laboratory & Institute (IDFL), one of the world’s leading testing services companies –has officially launched another global laboratory in Bangladesh.

Innovative technologies are paramount to continue sweater export growth

Bangladesh is a crucial sweater sourcing destination right after China.

Abdullah Al Mamun, Business Unit Manager, Marks & Spencer

The country’s knitwear garment items turnover was over $23 billion in the last fiscal year (FY) and registering a 36.88% growth. Which is 60% of the total readymade garment (RMG) exports of Bangladesh.

Earnings from sweater exports–the most important knitwear item–reached $4.05 billion in the fiscal year of 2020-21, up 12.62 per cent year-on-year, according to the data from the Export Promotion Bureau. In FY20, the receipts stood at $3.59 billion, a decrease of 15.47 per cent from the previous year’s $4.25 billion, as the severe fallout of the coronavirus pandemic took a toll.

There are almost 600 factories in Bangladesh produce sweater. China is leading by delivering over 16 Billion followed by Bangladesh over $4 Billion and then Vietnam (over $3.7 B), Italy (over $2.8 B), and Germany (over $2.47 B).

Sweaters have turned into an all-weather fashion item. The temperature has gone up in many cold countries due to climate change, driving down the demand for thick sweaters and pushing up the consumption of lightweight sweaters.

Bangladesh has a strong position

in the manufacturing of lightweight sweaters. Moreover, the use of modern technologies such as the Jacquard machine in sweater production has raised productivity.

A number of new markets such as South Africa, Japan, and Russia have emerged as promising sweater export destinations from Bangladesh in recent years. The largest sweater markets for Bangladesh are Canada, Europe and the US.

This continuous growth is the outcome of the resilience of the knitwear sector entrepreneurs. As they sharpened innovation, process development and workforce development in the knitwear sector. Especially the innovation in sweater production machinery is topnotch. To continue the sector’s progress – innovation in sweater production machinery in the future is paramount. Here are some of the highlighting parts where the sweater industry can focus to go forward.

Innovation in machinery (future knitwear)

Whole garments: The knitwear is a next-generation form of fully fashioned knitting that adds the capability of making a 3-dimensional full garment produced in one entire piece, garments are knit in three dimensions without seams three-dimensionally, directly on the knitting machine. Requires no major time-consuming postproduction labor resulting in a whole new kind of knitwear Seamfree “second skin” fit and comfort.

Santoni MECMOR: Investment in open panel circular knitting which is recognized as the complete knitwear machine in a circular motion. The sustainable ability to limit and control waste, due to the

variable width of the fabric panels allow the possibility of only setting the actual number of working needle. Product capability –Casual Knitwear Fashion Knitwear Footwear Athleisure.

Mixed media: It is a term used to describe artworks composed of a combination of different media or materials. Combining product strength across the group and passion for innovative products we pride ourselves in our mixed media collection. Merging Knit, with cut & sew and bonding technology. Product Capability Mixed Media–Athleisure Knit Sports Bras, Kids Fashion, Women’s Fashion, Knit Men’s Fashion, etc.

BONDING/Laser Bonding and laser capability: BONDING/Laser Bonding and laser capability across intimates, athleisure, active and casual compact knit. World-class bonding capability with a variety of machines and techniques lay down edge bonding Fold Stretch Bonding Laser Cut Logo/design engagement Panel/ Placement bonding Full Sample Bonding. Laser is being used in apparel industry from nineteenth century for various garment manufacturing applications. There are several advantages of using laser over the conventional processes in cutting, engraving, embossing, denim fading and other applications.

Author:

Abdullah Al Mamun Business Unit Manager, M&S

Figure: Innovative technologies are paramount to continue sweater export growth.

Archroma to acquire Huntsman Textile Effects

Pratteln, Switzerland, 9 August 2022 - Archroma, a global leader in sustainable specialty chemicals and solutions and a portfolio company of U.S.-based private investment firm SK Capital Partners (“SK Capital”), today announced it has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire the Textile Effects business (“Textile Effects”) from Huntsman Corporation.

Innovative and transformative leadership is not built overnight, and we are eager to work together with the people who made that happen at Huntsman Textile Effects.

Heike van de Kerkhof CEO of Archroma.

The combined company will continue to lead the textile industry in sustainability, innovation, and performance offering fashion brands, automotive, technical and home textiles the best-in-class cost performance whilst respecting natural resources and the planet.

Since its formation in 2013, through a series of mergers & acquisitions, as well as internal investments in R&D, manufacturing and service capabilities, Archroma has been building a comprehensive portfolio of solutions to serve the emerging needs of the textile industry. The combination with Textile Effects and its rich historical roots of Huntsman and Ciba Specialties will create a technology powerhouse that will include Archroma’s legacy heritages of Sandoz, Hoechst, Clariant, BASF and Dohmen who have been at the cutting edge of the textile industry for decades, and together will continue to serve customers for years to come.

Both Archroma and Textile Effects are founding members of Sustainable Chemistry for the Textile Industry (SCTI), an alliance of leading chemical companies that strives to empower the textile and leather industries to apply sustainable, state-of-theart chemistry solutions that protect factory workers, local communities, consumers and the environment. Both companies have been recognized by the

industry and are each recipient of multiple awards for supplying sustainable systems and solutions in dyes and chemicals that enable fashion brands, retailers, and textile manufacturers to create articles that are better for consumers and the planet.

“I am thrilled to see the combination of Huntsman Textile Effects and Archroma”, said Barry Siadat, Co-founder of SK Capital Partners and Chairman of Archroma. “Finally, we have achieved a dream of combining the technologies, products and capabilities of the legacy pioneers of the textile industry, namely Ciba, Sandoz, Hoechst and BASF, into a modern and cohesive enterprise that is focused on delivering innovative and sustainable systems and solutions to serve the evolving needs of today’s textile industry.”

“We at Archroma are so very excited to announce what we see as a merger of equals”, comments Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO of Archroma. “With this agreement, two committed leaders in sustainable and innovative solutions unite to pave the way towards a more sustainable textile industry. We are delighted to welcome a team of highly talented people”, adds Heike van de Kerkhof. “Innovative and transformative leadership is not built overnight, and we are eager to work together with the people who made that happen at Huntsman Textile Effects.”

“The combination of Archroma and Textile Effects is transformational, bringing together two highly complementary organizations with strong cultures of innovation and a shared commitment to inspire advancements in the textile industry. We are excited by what we will be able to achieve together. At a time when we are seeing robust growth trends in sustainability, the merger will position us firmly to accelerate growth and drive significant value for our customers, employees, and stakeholders,” said Rohit Aggarwal, President of Huntsman Textile Effects.

Closing of the transaction is subject to customary conditions and approvals and is expected to take place in the first half of 2023. Citi served as financial advisor to Archroma. Latham & Watkins LLP provided corporate legal advice and Kirkland & Ellis LLP provided financing legal advice to Archroma. BofA Securities served as Huntsman Corporation’s financial advisor and Kirkland & Ellis LLP acted as their legal counsel.

Germany 2136.11 2518.67 2987.71 2656.91 3094.01 4181.83 4793.03 5612.68 7169.53 Spain 936.40 927.40 1280.29 1082.81 1234.01 1738.24 2019.21 2161.41 3018.52 France 618.26 659.39 849.32 950.99 1109.61 1541.67 1569.25 1769.00 2390.98 Poland 448.55 512.48 744.08 629.43 867.92 1261.97 1077.98 1380.40 2006.05 Netherlands 395.02 422.72 621.13 477.19 621.02 853.19 872.21 1043.74 1474.32 Italy 425.49 381.68 506.14 770.55 834.72 1090.63 1196.03 1216.40 1596.77 Denmark 226.42 291.35 386.03 397.38 542.46 766.00 623.81 833.81 1152.03 Sweden 198.50 215.61 257.54 350.95 393.94 527.47 549.45 609.55 785.01 Belgium 282.47 221.73 226.06 310.83 339.86 496.45 593.31 561.59 722.52 Czech Republic 101.70 128.18 130.74 89.79 95.25 139.91 191.49 223.43 270.65

(2020-21)

(2021-22)

(2020-21)

June (2021-22)

(2020-21)

(2021-22) July 1494.66 1228.77 -17.79 1750.28 1658.45 -5.25 3244.94 2887.22 -11.02 August 1103.52 1152.94 4.48 1364.5 1600.44 17.29 2468.02 2753.38 11.56 September 1064.54 1513.55 42.18 1348.88 1905.29 41.25 2413.42 3418.84 41.66 October 985.50 1515.82 53.81 1338.22 2045.89 52.88 2323.72 3561.71 53.28 November 1110.12 1459.55 31.48 1334.47 1775.50 33.05 2444.59 3235.05 32.34 December 1261.05 1868.44 48.17 1389.82 2176.06 56.57 2650.87 4044.50 52.57 January 1399.22 1972.17 40.95 1462.94 2112.41 44.39 2862.16 4084.58 42.71 February 1272.65 1716.04 34.84 1352.64 1795.68 32.75 2625.29 3511.72 33.77 March 1142.48 1881.22 64.66 1312.43 2050.18 56.21 2454.91 3931.40 60.14 April 1175.21 1811.49 54.14 1341.77 2122.69 58.20 2516.98 3934.18 56.31 May 1190.58 1415.29 18.87 1366.37 1743.29 27.59 2556.95 3158.58 23.53 June 1297.17 1863.56 43.66 1597.71 2228.44 39.48 2894.88 4092.00 41.35 Total 14496.70 19398.84 33.82 16960.03 23214.32 36.88 31456.73 42613.16 35.47

we are always striving to deliver better products and service

Quality is our responsibility