Textile Today December 2022 Issue

Editorial Panel

Editor in Chief

Prof. Md. Monirul Islam

Executive Editor

Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan

Technical Editor

Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman

Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim

Consulting Editor

Dr. NN Mahapatra

Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed

Associate Editor

Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Eousup Novee

Managing Editor Akhi Akter

Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir

Editor & Publisher

A.S.M Tareq Amin

Published on 27th December 2022 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email: info@textiletoday.com.bd Web: www.textiletoday.com.bd

Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy.

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© All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2022 Volume 15, Issue 12 (December 2022) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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2022 was volatile but there were plenty of good stories too

Akhi Akter

2023 right around the corner. The end of the year 2022 is a time for pondering and looking back to see how our textile and apparel industry passed the year and what prospects are waiting for the industry moving forward.

The year 2022 could be a year full of threat, however, with many uncertainties and crises the industry experienced many positive scenarios.

First of all, in terms of apparel exports to the world Bangladesh observed significant positive growth except only in September (-7.52%). And most of the months showed an extra-ordinary performance from 32 percent to 60 percent growth.

In the year 2022, Bangladesh has crossed the milestone of $50 billion in exports for the first time. From July 2021 to June 2022, Bangladesh exported goods worth $52.08 billion in a total of 12 months, of which $42.61 billion was from ready-made garments, which accounted for 81.81 percent of total exports. Bangladesh’s exports increased by 35.47 percent in the last fiscal year and from January to November of 2022, Bangladesh’s RMG export average growth was almost 30 percent.

Home textiles, specialized textile products, knitted fabrics etc. exports performances were not so encouraging, but those sectors are going ahead with new innovation, investment and products to grab the global market.

Though financial challenges have shaken the textile and garments industry throughout the year, however, the sector leaders are still investing to upgrade processes to meet the demands of international clients. Textile factory owners are set to invest $2.5 billion in the sector by 2023 to boost production

capacity to meet growing demand, according to BTMA. Undoubtedly some smaller businesses are in stress, but the medium and large enterprises were more or less well-equipped to overcome the critical situation.

Another significant thing is ‘Made in Bangladesh Week 2022’ – organized by BGMEA which was the very first ever event to bring together all stakeholders and dignitaries from all over the world to showcase our apparel industry’s golden stories.

In terms of order flow, Bangladesh received a lot of orders in the first quarter of the year, however, in the second and third quarter apparel sector got less orders. Fortunately, exporters started to get better order flow during the last quarter of the year 2022. Western markets, including US-the biggest destination of Bangladesh’s apparel items, become relaxed by the end of 2022. Consumer confidence in the western economy rose more than expected as inflation eased and gas prices dropped which bring positive vibes throughout the apparel manufacturing countries, including Bangladesh. However, we have to re-evaluate and consolidate the setback of 2020 and 2021 as we can position ourselves in a sustainable way and set the next 5 years’ goal to put up with our strengths. If we get more order, and at the same time are considered as a cheap rated product suppliers then getting more orders can be a pain in the neck.

Akhi Akter Managing Editor Textile Today

Author:

In the seminar’s session on ‘Innovation and its Method’, the speakers brought forward the postulation of “Innovativeness as a new Competitiveness” for the textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh. TTIH defines the term Innovation as – “a systematic implementation of ideas to resolve practical problems.” It means the objective-oriented systematic change in the product, process, people and culture within a business.

Why do companies delve them into innovation – every innovation must have a business case; it should either reduce the cost, help increase the revenue, or, simplify any process of the business operations. For the industrial application, the whole journey of innovation should be “systematically helpful and commercially useful.” A small innovation of a product or process in a company can bring a significant impact on it’s business.

Factory and Industry Competiveness: Comparing to the competing countries, RMG factories in Bangladesh have proven their built-in resilience to respond enormous challenges. The captains of this industry still keep the rhythm of garmenting and exporting despite chronic hurdles home and abroad. Along with the resilient leadership, the industry could harness it’s professionals skills and capabilities and, built a robust internal infrastructure to produce a big volume with the right quality.

The speakers lamented that the textile and apparel (T&A) industry of Bangladesh has

been poorly branded as ‘competitive’ for its ‘cheap labor and, water resources with almost free of cost. They argued that the industry should be competitive for its innovativeness. It never sounds justified that we carry through the deficient identity of ourselves in the world.

How long an industry can foot on cheap labor and cheap resources! Moreover, the aforesaid cost of basic inputs of the industry are no more cheap; nor even be roped with the already increased current costs in the near future.

All the independent variables can be seen as the competencies for apparel manufacturing business in Bangladesh those can contribute to value for stakeholders. Among the independent variables, we should find out particular variables or elements with which other competitors cannot easily compete.

Though significant, yet, the previously held strengths may not be chosen anymore as the core competencies for competitiveness.

To stay competitive, individual

factory or company should navigate for innovativeness all through the value chain of the total business process. Having an innovative mindset is a paramount to foster the continuous improvement that can uphold a company competitive.

1. How a factory could be innovative: Though most of the factories feels the impetus for innovation, this is usually difficult for a single company due to several day to day operational dynamics. A concentrated platform can benefit companies by facilitating the innovation in many ways. A collaborative approach to drive innovation is crucially important where the stakeholders of industry can benefit each other.

People generally understand the “what to do” but it gets difficult to find out the “how to do”.

Many aspirants advocate for innovation with a normative approach just telling the importance of innovation without showing any practical model or design. The

Md. Eousup Novee, Bablu

Textile Today Innovation Hub (TTIH) has organized a Seminar titled “Integrating Innovation in Career” on December 3, 2022 at CHT. This write-up was scripted from the Speeches of Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today and Md. Eousup Novee Bablu, GM - Innovation & Strategy, TTIH.

revealing the How to Innovate i.e. the method and, techniques for innovation.

From the ideation to commercial application, it follows a systematic chain to have a real impact.

The speakers shared their experiences that some factories and companies want to work with TTIH but they cannot simply

Human Resources

Intellectual Resources (Innovativeness)

find out their problems on which they work on. Agreed, having no problem is the greatest problem. There is no right answer to a wrong question; the problem should also be found out with a systematic approach.

1.1. System design for innovation:

It is precisely presumed that a stupid can do a great work if the right system is installed and, a great man can do a stupid work if the system derails him on the other.

On the basis of business operations, we combine research methodology, project management with lean manufacturing techniques.

The speakers emphasized, with examples, the systematic approaches to innovations. The session showed some process designs for the implementation of innovations to deal with practical problems of the industry.

The journey of a single innovation starts with the principle - “Work on Small; Make on Spot”. Sticking to the principle, a small area gets selected passing with certain parameters first, then the issue practically gets addressed. TTIH strategizes the whole process of the innovation from locating an innovating-spot to replicating the solution to a similar circumstance.

TTIH leads Innovation (acts as an Executive Hub for Innovation Strategy, Planning, and Project Implementation) systematically. We have developed a unique modelling of system to dig into a matter and guide solution for any practical problem.

It also works for the transformation of companies by linking Brands, Factories and Experts.

To help the systematic thinking process and working procedure of finding a feasible solution, we developed a number of processing tools those can be used as best practices later on. These processing tools, by their intrinsic facets, will logically guide the factory or, concerned people to innovate.

2. TTIH as an Innovation-Platform for factories & companies:

Textile Today Innovation Hub, as being a premier platform, helps

facilitate, innovate, communicate and grow factory, supplier, professional, etc. in a systematic process. In association with the TTIH, companies have been piloting, testing, trialing products and processes. Many innovative companies build and uphold their best practices through TTIH.

In the Textile Today Innovation Hub, we have taken 96 projects so far. More than 70 projects have already been successfully completed and 70% of them was communicated with the industry where several projects are ongoing. More than 150 Experts (mostly from the industry and several from university), 25 factories, 15 coordinators and 100 plus inputs suppliers are directly connected with TTIH.

It is duly put-up that T&A industry of Bangladesh should replace its long-held disgraceful badge of cheap labor industry in the world. Innovativeness, in the span of four decade of matured industry, could be a new competitiveness for an individual factory and, for the industry as a whole. It creates an advantage for marketability of the capacity for a company. Innovation simplified; it’s doable.

Financial Resources Material or Physical Resources

Relatively Easy for Others to Imitate

Figure 2: Resources those can attain Competitive Advantage of a Company

Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today

Md. Eousup Novee Bablu GM - Innovation & Strategy, TTIH

Integrating innovation in business and career

Innovation is an excellent term having the regular usage in our daily life. It is simply assumed that innovation is everywhere. If we aspire to take our business to the next level, if we aspire to develop processes, if we desire to increase the customer satisfaction, if we want to make ourselves more efficient and competitive and, if we want to sustain our business – there is none other than the drive for innovation. Integrating innovation is a culture and the driving force of our business.

Though, innovation could be an immensely important agendum, unfortunately it is yet to be satisfactorily discussed and practiced in that height. Innovation usually creates the values from our creativity and ideas. When we can convert our ideas into value(s), it becomes an innovation.

Integrating innovation is all about better thinking process – only then it will become a workable process and set the motion for innovation. The most important aspect of innovation is to bind the mind with the heart. This synchronization will bring out the best result of readiness for the innovation.

Innovation and, it’s dimensions:

Of two types of innovationincremental and radical, the former one means performing a day-today work in a better way. On the other hand, radical innovation means doing something we

have never done before, doing something different. It is a rapid innovation which can bring great changes to system but there is an apprehension of risk. Whereas, incremental innovation results into small changes having a long-run benefit associating with lesser risk. At Masco, we relatively put more emphasis on the incremental innovation in several small areas.

Innovation could be termed as a process, a habit and it is a culture. We say that innovation, reasonably a top-down approach surfacing from leadership most, is a journey toward the value creation. Yet as well, if we want to take our peopledriven textile industry to the next level – as everybody is perceived naturally creative – we need to align them into our internal innovation process.

where relevant information and knowledge are assumed only from internal sources. Internal team, under the leadership, could endure and prepare for innovativeness proven to be more effective in bringing desired results. Open (source) innovation, on the other, is driven by acquiring information and knowledge from both internal and (mostly) external sources. It can also help boost internal capacity of the innovativeness.

Multi-faceted Fuels for Innovation:

Innovation to take place, we need knowledge push, market lead, change, advanced technology and invention. These all are important but none of them are sufficient to get a good result if we cannot integrated the wholesome. Whether from the internal or external source, we need the idea at first as there is no innovation without having idea. Then we need knowledge push which we can obtain from R&D, internal source, training, etc. The more knowledge we will attain, the more opportunity will knock us which can develop new methodology to generate new ideas for innovation.

In segment, innovation can be either brought in product or, process or, service. Manufacturing industry, in particular, should give more focus on the process innovation. In terms of accessibility and viability, innovation can be materialized in a close and an open system. Close innovation occurs within an organization

At certain point, we need to sensitize the pulse of the market, which we call ‘voice of the customer’ to befit ourselves with changing times. Referring to know the customer requirements, we heed to the voice of customer so that we remain competitive. The customer requirements,

Md. Eousup Novee Bablu

Textile Today Innovation Hub has organized a Seminar titled “Integrating Innovation in Career” on December 3, 2022 at CHT. This write-up was scripted from the Keynote Speech of ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton - Executive Director, Masco Group.

Though, innovation could be an immensely important agendum, unfortunately it is yet to be satisfactorily discussed and practiced in that height. Innovation usually creates the values from our creativity and ideas. When we can convert our ideas into value(s), it becomes an innovation.

knowledge push and ideas, all must be integrated.

It requires a technical support or automation or software based support to foster the innovation to the next level. Thousands of mechanisms or small innovations and improvements can be made in industry through the automation and software. This entire process, combining with the invention though infrequent, together creates an innovative model.

Innovations may also embark in the market first, then consumers accept the innovative product or service after it is marketed. It is because the industry leaders can predict the customer demand and, align it with their business strategy.

Innovation as the value creation: Innovation is all about to keep questioning and challenging oneself asking as to how innovation works, how we can embrace innovation in our journey. Innovation could be termed as a process, a habit and it is a culture. We say that innovation, reasonably a top-down approach surfacing from leadership most, is a journey toward the value creation. Yet as well, if we want to take our people-driven textile industry

to the next level – as everybody is perceived naturally creative –we need to align them into our internal innovation process.

At certain point, we need to sensitize the pulse of the market, which we call ‘voice of the customer’ to befit ourselves with changing times. Referring to know the customer requirements, we heed to the voice of customer so that we remain competitive. The customer requirements, knowledge push and ideas, all must be integrated.

single dedicated person or, even without any kind of automation. How could we make it possibleonly by changing the mindset of the people. We train the people as to how manage and use the stores in certain time intervals keeping own responsibilities unaffected in the deployed department. We all have to believe and adopt the same mindset of innovativeness.

In a nutshell, we need the change whether it is radical or incremental, change is also a core part of the innovation model. Observed that many companies, those were doing business successfully for years or promising to do well, have disappeared. They underwent such a pitiful consequence due to the lack of innovativeness and adaptability with the change and demand of the market.

Let me give you an example with a small-simple case: - Every factory has it’s own warehouse – Masco Group has warehouse in each of its factories. Now, if I ask you the question that how many people do we need to run these storerooms?

You could reply that at least one person in each storeroom is required. You would be astounded to know that Masco’s warehouses are perfectly running without a

The keynote speaker, ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton - an industry icon, ends his session showing some practical innovations predominantly ideated from the lean manufacturing principles. Many fruitful innovative initiatives were taken under his leadership in his working place. He also interacts with industry people present in the seminar with answering to several questions on career and innovation.

ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton - Executive Director, Masco Group

The

Transfar chemicals ( Bangladesh) Co. Ltd House-24, Road-4, Sector-4 Uttara Dhaka, Bangladesh

The significance of ‘Made In Bangladesh Week’

Textile Today Analysis

BGMEA organized the Made in Bangladesh Week to showcase the ability, strength and good practices of the local RMG industry to brand the country.

Scores of representatives and buyers of more than 550 global brands were invited at the Expo – where Bangladeshi millers showcased their new apparel product ranges, factory strengths and combined efforts to create a sustainable garments industry.

Some 76 local and foreign ventures displayed their products and

innovations through stalls. Which has positively highlighted the branding or image of Bangladesh in the garment industry. More than 11,000 visitors including 500 foreign visitors graced the weeklong event.

“Bangladesh is a preferred destination of apparel sourcing among global buyers for its world-class workplace safety and environmental sustainability,” said Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA.

The recently concluded week-long mega event ‘Made in Bangladesh Week-2022’ – organized by Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), was multi-faceted success in portraying the Bangladesh textile and readymade garment (RMG) industry. Most importantly, in the aftermath of a global COVID-19 pandemic – when the whole apparel supply chain has been reeling from challenges – the country’s RMG industry stood firm in overcoming its global and local challenges.

billion in garment exports in the last financial year – in spite of economic slowdown across the world.

“At present, Bangladesh is globally applauded as one of the safest and most environmentally-friendly apparel manufacturing countries in the world, with the highest number of green factories certified by USGBC. We are also a front-runner in transparency, which adds unique ethical values to our products. And this show is a footprint of all that.”

Exploring new markets

“At present, Bangladesh is globally applauded as one of the safest and most environmentally-friendly apparel manufacturing countries in the world, with the highest number of green factories certified by USGBC. We are also a frontrunner in transparency, which adds unique ethical values to our products. And this show is a footprint of all that.”

- Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA

Bangladesh has a 6.8% market share in the global apparel supply chain. Earning $42.61

BGMEA is working with traditional as well as non-traditional markets to deal with the global recession led market contraction. Besides, it is working on expanding the current share in the global fashion market.

Made in Bangladesh Week greatly attracted buyers from new destinations where Bangladesh’s apparel business communications aren’t as established as the US and Europe.

Faruque Hassan said, “Around 150 buyers joined the expo from the Middle East, amazingly, 43 of them are from Iraq. We are very optimistic for that as we always emphasis on new markets and new buyers. In addition, there were buyers from India and other countries, too.”

He said many new buyers partook in this mega event while many have already posted their buying orders. Besides, the old buyers have also made more orders from Bangladesh compared to the past. Some of the buyers have doubled their orders.

“PDS wishes to increase their sourcing from Bangladesh to $2 billion yearly, which is nearly $1 billion currently,” BGMEA President added.

Beside the US and the EU apparel export markets – the share in the non-traditional market has been increasing considerably and currently exports stood nearly 15% of total export to the new market.

Bangladesh government has been working tirelessly to ensure

smooth business environment, world class communication system and energy.

The event also highlighted responsible business needs global alliance on due diligence – in the perspective of manufacturers and the western buyers.

Bangladesh can be a recycling hub

As part of sustainable initiative –Faruque Hassan said concerning the false clothes/waste, “We are working on recycling false clothes and in the near future, Bangladesh will be the hub of recycling. Then instead of export, we’ll import the wastes from other RMG manufacturing countries,” he added.

According to the BGMEA data, there was a potential for Bangladesh to earn $3 billion annually by recycling preconsumer textile waste, known as ‘jhut’, if the government provided required policy support.

Approximately 4 lakh tonnes of recyclable pre-consumer waste is produced in Bangladesh every

year, of which less than 5 per cent is recycled locally, over 35 per cent is incinerated in boilers or landfills, and about 60 per cent is exported to India, Sweden, and other countries, where they are recycled and sold back to Bangladesh as recycled yarn, at a higher cost.

“The recycling of pre-consumer textile waste provides a lucrative opportunity to Bangladesh, not only economically, but also socially and environmentally,” said BGMEA President.

The 4 lakh tonnes of micro-fibres and scraps that are disposed of as waste every year can be recycled to produce approximately 1 billion garments products, which has the potential to generate a revenue of about $3 billion yearly, he added.

BGMEA president said that there were already companies that have established recycling plants, like ‘Recover’ from Beximco and ‘Cyclo’ from Simco, and many other small facilities that were recycling Jhut in Bangladesh.

Faruque said that it was important that the government take

steps to stop the export of preconsumer waste and promote the pre-consumer waste recycling industry in Bangladesh.

He also requested to allow the imports of discarded garments EU, USA and Japan.

Investment-friendly policies

Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina described Bangladesh as a safe place for investment. She added, “Bangladesh’s investment-friendly policies, along with duty-free and quota-free facilities for Bangladeshi products in various countries around the world, are attracting foreign investors. I also request the country’s business leaders welcome foreign investment. You adopt their technology, and knowledge in your industry.”

In terms of smooth business environment, Sheikh Hasina said, “We are establishing 100 special economic zones across the country. As a result, Bangladesh has now become the most favorable destination for investment and sourcing in the world.”

Recently, the Prime Minister inducted and laid the foundation stones of 50 industrial units and infrastructure in various economic zones on the occasion of the golden jubilee of the country’s

independence.

Bangladesh has developed the communication system including Trans-Asian Railway, and TransAsian Highway and development in waterways, airways, railways, etc. are creating an excellent environment for investment in Bangladesh.

While the recent energy crisis has come to an end – as Bangladesh to import 1 to 1.5 million metric tons of LNG annually from Brunei. Which could begin early next year. In addition, Sylhet’s Biyanibazar gas field will add around 8 million cubic feet (cft) of gas to the national grid every day.

Industry people opined that Bangladesh has always been a resilient economy and they will keep the positivity to ensure the overall progress.

Bangladesh’s Commerce Minister, Tipu Munshi said that people still have to wear garments even during leaner economic times and no one can beat our price.

Positive order flow

Above all, Bangladesh’s apparel exporters have recently started to observe a progress in the order situation after three consecutive months of declining RMG orders. As in the first 20 days of November, RMG exports increased by 6%. While apparel exporters

say 90-100% factories are booked from January 2023.

SM Khaled, Managing Director, Snowtex Group said, “I have already had 100 percent orders since January. After the end of the upcoming Christmas, most of the apparel manufacturers will receive hundred percent booking.”

RMG leaders said that most of the retailers and brands started to place orders and woven makers started to receive 100% of bookings from January. After winter and Christmas sales buyers will come with a large volume of work orders.

This upsurge is a proof that the leading brands and retailers place Bangladesh as the one of the most preferred apparel sourcing destination. Making clothes for Walmart, Primark, H&M, Target and other global chains is a cornerstone industry that has helped lift many of its more than 160 million people, primarily women, out of poverty.

For instance, Bangladesh’s single biggest foreign clothing buyer Swedish brand H&M – which sourced more than $3.50 billion worth of apparel in 2021 – has huge sourcing plan for Bangladesh in near future.

Ziaur Rahman, Regional Country Manager for Production at H&M

for Bangladesh, Pakistan and Ethiopia said, “We are committed to our suppliers. And Bangladesh is the safest sourcing destination among all 19 sourcing destinations of H&M.”

Ziaur Rahman opined that Bangladesh increased product diversity as more than 75% of exported garment items are limited to the top 5 products although the country is the second-largest apparel supplier in the world.

"Improvement of efficiency and making more garments from the manmade fibre can help overcome the challenges of the duty imposition after the LDC graduation," Regional Country Manager at H&M added.

Bangladesh is also the biggest sourcing destination for British

multinational retailer Marks and Spencer (M&S) Group. And its Regional Head for Bangladesh and India Shwapna Bhowmick said that manufacturers need to use more manmade fibre (MMF) to increase garment exports.

Future outlook to create a greater impact

Sheikh H M Mustafiz, Managing Director of Cute Dress Industry Ltd. said, “I must say that this kind of initiative will always enrich the branding of 'Made in Bangladesh'. But I would like to recommend that we should arrange such program to those exporting countries where we have huge footprints but our stories are untold. It can be done once in a year to different continents with extreme engagement of electronic and social media.”

“If we do similar summit again at home, we should showcase positive stories and knowledgebased presentation instead of identifying our existing problems in the panel discussion. We need to listen the solutions of the problems, not the known problems repeatedly.”

“End of the day, we need to send the message to the global end consumers 'why they should buy made in Bangladesh products?’ Not because we are looking for charity as poor nation, it is because our products are ethically made with highest compliance in terms of safety and environmental resilience compare to our competitors. If we can do that Bangladesh will be the only trusted apparel sourcing country in the world and we will be the first choice of global consumerism.”

Foreign firms and joint venture in EZ will get loans in 'Taka'

Arif Uz-Zaman

Bangladesh Bank has given the opportunity to provide working capital loans in local currency to foreign and domestic-foreign jointly owned industrial enterprises in the economic zone. Till now these institutions were getting short term loans in foreign currency only.

On November 28, the Foreign Exchange and Policy Department of Bangladesh Bank issued a circular in this regard. This instruction has been given due to the dollar crisis. According to the directive, Bangladesh has provided an opportunity to take current capital loans from local sources in favor of type-A and type-B industrial enterprises operating in the economic zone. All the companies which produce for sale in the local market and have no foreign income will get working capital loan facility in Taka.

loans from foreign sources. Foreign owned and controlled institutions outside the Special Zones can take working capital loans in taka from local sources on the basis of bankercustomer relationship.

This opens the door to current credit facilities for enterprises in the economic zone producing for the local market. Earlier, in 2020, Bangladesh Bank gave these institutions the opportunity to open bank accounts in Taka.

Figure: Bangladesh Bank has given the opportunity to provide working capital loans in local currency to foreign and domestic-foreign jointly owned industrial enterprises in the economic zones.

At present, Type-A (100% foreignowned) and Type-B (domesticforeign joint ventured) industries can avail short-term foreign currency

Bangladesh has eight EPZs and they have created a milestone by creating employment for 64,160 Bangladeshi nationals in the fiscal year 2021-22, a 36.51% increase over the previous fiscal year when 47,000 new jobs were created.

Innovation in Textile Chemicals for a Sustainable society

Iraqi buyers see Bangladesh as a potential sourcing hub

Bangladesh is increasing its export potential in Iraq as 43 buyers from Iraq took part in the just concluded mega event ‘Made in Bangladesh Week 2022’

Textile Today Analysis

Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers are working on new strategies to expand their export market to stay high in the global apparel market. According to the World Trade Organization (WTO), Bangladesh's share in the global apparel trade increased by 2.23 to 6.40 percent last year and retained the second position globally. The Central Bank of Asian countries reported that the USA, Canada, UK, Belgium, France, Germany,

Italy, Netherlands, and Spain already account for more than 70% of Bangladesh's RMG exports.

Bangladesh's export basket is mostly limited to these nine countries. However, Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has taken many initiatives to expand the country's export basket. BGMEA's recent initiative "Made in Bangladesh" has promoted Bangladeshi

Revenue of US$6.50 billion in the apparel market in 2022.

The annual growth rate is 7.83% CAGR (2022-2027)

Womenswear is the largest market segment with a market size of US$2.90bn in 2022.

clothing globally. More than 100 participants from foreign buyers and representatives responded positively to BGMEA's 'Made in Bangladesh' initiative. However, Iraq showed the most interest in the event compared to other participants.

“Nearly 150 buyers joined the ‘Made in Bangladesh Week 2022’ from the Middle East, surprisingly, 43 of them are from Iraq. It is very positive for us as we always focus on new markets and new buyers. There were buyers from India and other countries, too,” said BGMEA President Faruque Hassan.

The Middle East countries continue to be a major export destination for Bangladeshi garments as local garment manufacturers are receiving a lot of inquiries from buyers in the region. Almost the entire Middle East region is dominated by Chinese garment items while the presence of Bangladeshi garment items is still rare. BGMEA President Faruque

Figure 1: Iraq’s apparel sector and future growth.

Hassan said that some buyers from Iraq have also come to Made in Bangladesh Week 2022. This bodes well for Bangladesh aiming to gain a larger market share in the Middle East.

Bangladesh is trying to expand its market globally as almost 90 percent of its garment exports are confined to Europe and North America region. Therefore, in the roadmap of BGMEA for the next 15 years, the Middle East and other potential countries in Asia have been considered as the country's export destinations, Hassan said.

Iraq's apparel market may open a new export basket for Bangladesh.

Iraq’s textile & apparel market size

Iraq's economy is mainly dependent on the oil sector, which accounts for 99.7% of foreign exchange earnings. So, Iraq is less concerned about apparel manufacturing. However, with a population of 41.18 million people, Iraq's apparel market revenue reached USD6.50 billion this year with an annual growth rate of 7.83% CAGR (2022-2027). Relative to total population figures, the per capita income in 2022 is USD 154.10. In Iraq's apparel market, volume is expected to reach 1,035.4m pcs from 2022-2027 and expected to show a volume growth of 15.0% in 2023. Iraq's

clothing market have an average volume of 18.4 pieces per capita in 2022.

Most of the sales in Iraq's apparel market will be attributed to nonluxury products. Womenswear segment is the largest and popular market segment in Iraq with a market size of USD 2.90bn this year. Iraqi clothing trends are controversial so most people follow traditional clothing. However, there is still a huge demand for casual wear like branded T-shirts (polo and other brands), shirts, suits, and pants.

Clothing trends of Iraq

The history of Iraqi fashion is incredibly diverse. This is due to different cultures and influences since Iraq became an independent state in the late 1950s. In those days, most of the men and women

of the country wore western clothes. This was done to show their independent progressive position in the Arab cultural world and around the world.

However, in the last two decades, there has been a group of Islamic religious rebels who have tried to dictate what Iraqis, especially Iraqi women, should wear. As a result, women who do not wear traditional Iraqi fashion, including the abaya or hijab, have received death threats and unwanted negative attention from group members.

These days, as the socio-political situation in Iraq begins to stabilize, public scrutiny by the "fashion police" has subsided and you'll see more men wearing jeans. Women wear less hijab and more jeans, especially in the big cities of Erbil, Baghdad, and Basra.

Even conservative Iraqi women who wear the abaya and hijab outside, they wear jeans, T-shirts, and other Western or Iraqi fashion when they are in home.

Market share of Iraq

Iraq's both textile and apparel market is heavily dependent on imports. The import contribution of Iraq's textile and clothing sector is about USD 173.65 million. Global imports of Iraq's textile and apparel products are as follows: Korea, the Republic of China (with 56.42% import share), China (with 28.88% import share), Jordan (with 2.37% import share), Pakistan (with 2.25% import share), Iran,

Figure

Iraqi Kurdish men are inspiring social change through fashion. Courtesy: Metro News

Figure 3: Iraq’s global import market share.

Islamic Republic (with import share of 1.49%).

Korea has recaptured Iraq's apparel market last year. But the largest contribution to textile imports comes from China. Last year, China (2.5 thousand tons) constituted the largest supplier of cotton fabrics to Iraq, accounting for 76% of total imports.

Iraq is focusing more on importing garments rather than textile raw materials. Due to overall consumption and dependence on oil base foreign exchange, Iraq does not focus on manufacturing or exporting apparel. Iraq's textile and clothing sector exports contributed USD 0.22 million. The Iraq textile market sector mainly exports products to Jordan, the Syrian Arab Republic, Lebanon, Kuwait, and Mexico.

Iraq's textile and garment manufacturing factories, machines, and industrial equipment are old and cannot keep up with technological advances in the sector. Also, the total number of establishments in Iraq for cloth manufacturing is 2051 and for textile manufacturing is 414 with small establishments having 1-9

workers, medium establishments having 1029 workers, and large establishments having more than 30 workers.

Bangladesh’s contribution to Iraq’s import Bangladesh's apparel exports to Iraq are limited to single-digit million US dollars.

But apparel exports to Iraq have almost doubled recently with USD 2.1 million in Financial Year 202223 from July to October. Exports declined in FY 20-21 due to the global pandemic and economic crisis. Export products are t-shirts, jerseys, shirts, trousers, suits, jackets, and other cotton or non-cotton apparel such as shawls, and hijabs.

Iraq's contribution to Bangladesh's garment export sector is very low. But there may be an opportunity to get more business from Iraq. Iraq's apparel imports have yet to reach a billion dollars and most imports come from China. Bangladesh can easily cover Iraq's total imports. Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers need to develop a suitable comparative strategy to divert Iraq's apparel orders toward them. The Governments of Bangladesh and Iraq's business delegations are already cooperating with each other to develop bilateral relations.

Business collaboration with Bangladesh

Recently DCCI President Rizwan Rahman and other DCCI leaders

held a meeting with Seerwan Mohammed Mahmood, Chairman of Sulaimany Chamber of Commerce & Industry (SCCI) in Iraq, to discuss the possibility of bilateral trade between Bangladesh and Iraq. SCCI led a six-member delegation in the meeting presided over by DCCI President.

During the meeting, DCCI President Rizwan Rahman said that the bilateral trade between Bangladesh and Iraq was 57.23 million US dollars in the fiscal year 20-21. The trade volume between Bangladesh and Iraq has increased almost four times in the last two years. But there is a huge trade deficit of around USD 49.63 million as Bangladesh exports only USD 3.8 million against imports of USD 53.43 million.

Bangladesh's longer lead time in exports is affecting bilateral trade between Bangladesh and Iraq. The country currently spends 25-35 days more than its nearest rivals China and Vietnam. Moreover, Bangladesh spends a lot of time importing backward linkage materials, which is one of the major bottlenecks.

SCCI Chairman Mahmood said Bangladesh's RMG sector could have good prospects in Iraq where smooth connectivity like direct air flights between Dhaka and Baghdad could boost bilateral trade. He suggested the signing of a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) between DCCI and SCCI for bilateral trade development. Iraqi investors also are interested in setting up joint ventures in Bangladesh. Bangladesh-Iraq apparel trade may increase in upcoming days.

Figure 4: A recent meeting with DCCI (Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry) members and business delegations of Sulaimany Chamber of Commerce & Industry). Courtesy: DCCI

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Ways to upgrade the efficiency of Chattogram Port

Faisal Samad, Senior Board Member, BGMEA & Managing Director, Savartex Group

As a garment maker first and a senior board member of the BGMEA having served the industry more than 25 years, meaning of logistics in my world was at one point many years ago, finding a secure trucking company, taking the export consignment out of the factory, reaching the port, handing over the cargo on time and meeting my shipping deadline!

That was the first 30 years early to mid-nineties to the millennium, however, today logistics and what we understood are different and vast world which includes the speed of your Wi-Fi and how quickly you can book a container on line to handing over cargo which mostly digital excepting the traffic to take our trucks out of the industrial belts to Chattogram port.

Containerized Throughput (In & Out) at Chattogram Port growth of 6 years

Year Total Throughput Growth

2010 13,43,448 Teus 16%

2011 13,92,104 Teus 3.62%

2012 14,06,456 Teus 1.03%

2013 15,41,517 Teus 9.60%

2014 17,31,219 Teus 12.30%

2015 20,24,207 Teus 16.92%

2016 23,46,909 Teus 15.94%

Much has evolved and evolving

By 2030 global economy will be $9 tn bigger & by improving trade facilitation activities can lower trade costs by 14%

BD needs further improvement its logistics infrastructure to be a developing country by 2030

Logistics included as an export diversifications sectors in Industrial Policy

Ensuring smooth coordination among ministries so that with a single document whole logistics support services can be ensured

every day as a nation and as citizens of the country we can see all the physical and infrastructure changes which are happening to take our country forward in to a middle-income country by 2030.

For which I would like to thank the honorable Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina for her far-reaching vision and creating the road map to the future of Bangladesh and getting the job done and positive progress over the past 15 years!

We as RMG makers dreamt of a 50-billion-dollar export only 10 years ago and today it’s a reality but without the right policy support and the logistics infrastructure in place or continued improvements we could not have achieved same.

However, with every positive comes new challenges and to rise above it we need continous support with the correct framework in place to reach

Figure: Logistics importance in global scenario and Bangladesh’s to-do in the sector to smooth ease of doing business.

BGMEA’s recent target of 100 billion USD!

I am happy that recently in the Industrial Policy -- announced on September 25, 2022 by the Ministry of Industries -- logistics has been included for the first time as one of the export diversifications sectors and it has also been considered a thrust sector. 21 logistics sub-sectors have been included in the policy. It is clearly evident that the government is willing to give more importance to logistics development in the coming years.

A number of studies have been conducted so far comparing Bangladesh's logistics performance with other countries which show the country needs further preparation in terms of improving its logistics infrastructure to be a developing country by 2030 and a developed country by 2041.

In Bangladesh there are about ten ministries, twenty-four government agencies looking after the logistics sector. As in other countries, there is a need for a focal point ministry so that discipline can be brought in this sector and logistics cost can be reduced. Most important is to ensure smooth coordination so that with a single document whole logistics support services can be ensured.

It is seen from the statistics that global economy will be about $9 trillion by 2030 by improving trade facilitation activities which can lower average trade costs by 14 percent.

In Bangladesh, permission from 33 licensing agencies are required for export,

about 15 licenses are required for a formal business to start.

It is time to make ease of doing business a reality!

I would like to share some data I have collected where export-import cost is higher in Bangladesh ($633, $1270) than other countries such as-- Vietnam ($429, $556), India ($270, $366). The country needs attention for improved trade facilitation and automated services for reducing cost of doing business.

0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800

Logistics infrastructure development has been treated as one of the key factors in ensuring industrialization in today's competitive and complex business age.

We need to achieve our targets of export diversification, employment generation, increased investment and FDI for further socioeconomic development.

Our focus would need to be concentrated on advanced logistics infrastructure development and policy I repeat once again!

Even the difference in growth for 20 years from 1985 to 2005 was phenomenal:

a) Cargo volume increased by 362%.

b) Container volume increased by 3437%

c) Number of Vessels increased by 183%

Yet today sitting in 2022 after 16 years from 2005, we find virtually no infrastructure development despite volume of cargo/container/ vessels increasing with Double Digit Figures except Multi-Purpose Berth (MPB) with back-up yard & development of some container yard in General Cargo berth. The MPB was built with a vision to handle: • 3 container vessels.

• Storage for 90,000 containers per annum.

• Storage capacity in General Cargo Berth was limited to 150,000 containers per annum. All said and done

Import Export

Bangladesh Vietnam India

Comparative export-import cost in Vietnam, India & Bangladesh

Chattogram Port is overburdened with Container Trade Size.

Chattogram Port capacity: Why the congestion and why ships suffer berthing delay?

The problem lies in the terminal congestion. With ever growing trade volume Container Terminal continue to remain fully occupied. Due to congestion in the terminal, unloading/ loading of vessels suffer delay and consequently ships suffer berthing delay. The underlying facts leading to the terminal congestion can be traced at the below mentioned areas.

Import laden containers

The storage of import laden containers in the Port Terminal is the main cause of all problems and of overall congestion in the Port. If the Import laden containers can be removed out of Container Terminal to Off-Dock, then the congestion situation in the port will change over-night. If 95% of Export can be handled at Off-Dock it is not understood as to why 95% of the Import Laden Containers cannot be handled at Off-Dock. Further Chattogram Port is being used as a cheap and safe storage warehouse for storage of cargo and the containers. The cargo awaits in Port for months together. This should not be allowed to happen. Either the containers should be taken to Consignees premises or to Off-Dock within 24 hours of discharge from the feeder vessels.

Misuse or wrong use of Port’s Container Terminal

Chattogram Port Container

Terminal should not be allowed to be used for the purpose of stuffing/ un-stuffing operation or for storage of Laden and/ or empty Containers other than being used as a Transit point for the Containers.

The import laden containers, upon discharge from feeder vessels, should be removed to Off-Dock within 24 hours of discharge. Similarly Export laden containers should be brought to the loading terminal 24 hours prior to the vessel’s berthing. This will avoid any congestion in the Terminal storage yard and the loading/ discharging productivity of the feeder vessels will certainly increase manifold. If this plan is implemented the congestion in the Terminal and congestion in the berthing of the Container Feeder Vessels will totally disappear. Productivity of vessels currently berth occupancy of the vessels are up to 4/5 days. Discharging/ loading productivity depends on the speed of discharge/loading. These are currently limited by factors beyond Port Authorities control as there is hardly any space available for storage of Import laden containers in the Terminal after discharge from the vessels.

Thus, if the import laden containers are removed to OffDock, huge amount of storage space will be available. This will help increase the discharging/ loading productivity of Vessels. The berth occupancy period of the vessels will decline. Chattogram Port image will shine because efficiency of the Port is judged by the level of loading/unloading performance to & from vessel and not by the speed of delivery and clearance.

Gantry Cranes: Different kind of publicity is going on as to the problems of gantry cranes. Some say the gantry cranes are faulty and some say the Operators are inefficient and so on for which the performance by Gantry crane is below the expected level. Notwithstanding opinions the cognized problem is lack of space in the terminal yard. No one can expect the gantry crane and operators to perform when the back up space is simply not there.

Off-Dock: The growth of trade is a real pressure on Chattogram Port. To overcome the problem of ever-increasing pressure of trade, the import laden boxes have to be removed to Off-Dock. For some unknown reason despite the limitation of space ‘X’ & ‘Y’ Sheds were leased out to Private Party these could easily have been used by Port Authority for Off-Dock linkage.

• The Port Authority should immediately make arrangements with the Customs Authority for removal of the import laden containers to Off-Dock.

• In this regard it is advisable that Chattogram Port Authority takes over the Steel Mill Area, convert same into an Off-Dock for Import laden containers.

• All Import laden can be removed there.

• In course of time, Fly-over can be built to connect Steel Mill Off-Dock area with the New Mooring Terminal.

Faisal Samad

Senior Board Member, BGMEA Managing Director, Savartex Group

Author

Chattogram Port's

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Innovation culture can take the industry next level

Integrating Innovation in Career 2022 by Textile Today illuminated future pathways for young and future textile engineers

Industry Icon ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton, Executive Director, Masco Group said, “Integrating innovation is all about better thinking process – only then it will become a process and set the motion of innovation.”

Mahbubul Alam Milton opined this in the ‘Integrating Innovation in Career 2022’ seminar as the Keynote speaker. The seminar was organized by Textile Today at AG Conference Hall, Tejgaon, Dhaka on December 3, 2022.

The daylong seminar highlighted how young and future textile engineers can add innovativeness as a real tangible skill that can add direct value in their jobs and business and even larger in their lives.

“The most important aspect of innovation is integrating the mind and heart. This synchronization will bring out the best result on innovation.”

“Innovation is all about to keep questioning oneself and keep on challenging your very own self.

The question that arises that how innovation works. How will we embrace innovation in our journey to the next level? The answer is, innovation is a process, habit and it is culture. We say that innovation

is a journey toward value creation. If we want to take our peopledriven textile and apparel industry to the next level – as everybody is naturally creative – we need to align them into our innovation process. Overall, if we develop a culture of innovation then it will be natural to take our industries to

S N Abdullah

Figure 1: (From left) Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today; Eng. A. S. M. Hafizur Rahman Nixon, ED, RH Corporation; Mahbubul Alam Milton, ED, Masco Group; Abdulla Al Rumi, Country Manager, Stanley/Stella BLO.

the next level.”

He said “Innovation is an excellent word. In our daily life, we use this word regularly and it is said that innovation is everywhere. If we want to take our business to next level, if we want to develop processes, if we want to make ourselves more efficient and competitive – then there is no alternative of innovation.”

“Let me give you an example of simple case. Every factory has a storeroom – similarly Masco Group has one in each of its factories. Now, if I ask you the question that how many people do we need to run these storerooms? You will say at least one person in each storeroom. You will be astounded to know that Masco’s stores are perfectly running without a single dedicated person or any kind of automation. How are we making it possible? By only changing the mindset of the people. And you all have to believe and adopt the same mindset to implement real innovation,” Mahbubul Alam Milton added.

Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today in his introductory speech said, “Innovation is an intangible thing, as we cannot touch it. Most importantly among

the masses it is not crystalized, clarified nor has it been achieved. So, our aim today will be to crystalized, clarified and identified – this is the aim of this seminar.”

Eng. A. S. M. Hafizur Rahman Nixon, Executive Director, RH Corporation said in his welcome address, “Innovation is indispensable for the industry and especially for the young and future textile engineers. As dyes & chemicals and machine manufacturing are all about innovation and sustainability. Because everybody knows that nobody wants to lose their way in common products. So, it is high time for future textile engineers to focus on innovation and sustainability.”

Md. Eousup Novee,

GM - Innovation & Strategy, TTIH presented a speech on ‘Innovation and its Method.’ He emphasized, with examples, the systematic approaches to innovations. He showed some process designs for the implementation of innovations for practical cases.

He shared his experience that “some factories and companies want to work with us but they cannot simply find out their problems. Having no problem is the greatest problem.”

There is no right answer to a wrong question; the problem should also be found out systematically.

Eousup

Bablu,

Novee lamented that the

Figure 2: Around 100 participants from the leading textile universities, and industry leaders attended the seminar.

Figure 3: Bangladesh textile industry icons disseminated their innovation knowledge at the seminar.

textile and apparel (T&A) industry of Bangladesh has been poorly branded as ‘competitive’ for its ‘cheap labor and, water resources free of cost. He argued that the industry should be competitive for its innovativeness with the slogan ‘Innovativeness is a new competitiveness.’ Every innovation must have a business case; it should either reduce the cost, help increase the revenue, or, simplify any process of the business operations.

As the guest speaker, Abdulla Al Rumi, Country Manager, Stanley/ Stella BLO, shared his long journey

and how he overcame career-long challenges through innovation.

At the event, other guest speakers were – Abul Kalam Azad, Lecturer, Department of Dyes and Chemical Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles; Irin Akter, Global Technical Manager Materials & Testing, G-Star RAW; Abul Hasnat, Sr. Technologist, Raw Materials; George, Bangladesh (WMGS Bangladesh Private Ltd.); Noman Bin Yousuf, Senior Fabric Technologist, The Just Group; Raju Ahmed, Principal, Sheikh Hasina Textile Engineering Collage, Riasat Zaman, Co-Founder and CTO

Eco Via Ltd.; Md. Tanvir Hossain, Lecturer, Bangladesh University of Business and Technology, BUBT; Sadman Sakib Tushan, Adjunct Lecturer, Industrial and Production Engineering Bangladesh University of Textiles; Rifatur Rahman Miazee, Executive- All Over Printing, Apex Holdings Ltd.

Around 100 participants from the leading textile universities, and industry leaders attended the seminar. Later in the seminar, panel speakers answered various questions from the participants.

Apparel export sees 36% growth in November

Amena Kamal Khan

Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) export earnings hit a record $4.38 billion in November 2022. According to the latest Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, the export growth has achieved a gigantic 35.60% higher than the $3.23 billion earned in the same month 2021. Contributing 86.05% of the national export Industry experts opined that RMG exporters managed to send a big quantity of deferred shipments – which the buyers had delayed last month – has helped Bangladeshi apparel makers in achieving this feat.

July-November FY 2022-23 earnings

EPB data also showed that in the first five months (July-November) of FY23, the country’s RMG exports witnessed a 15.61% export growth rate year-on-year by exporting RMG goods worth $18.33 billion. The sector earned $15.86 billion in the same period in FY 2021-22. In the meantime, the two main sub-sectors of RMG, the

knitwear sector earned $10.11 billion in the same period in FY23, registering a 12.55% year-on-year growth while the woven sector earned $8.22 billion posting a 19.61% growth rate in July-November of FY23.

Other textile and allied sub-sector exports

In the July-November FY2022-23 period, the home textile sector earned $518.63 million. Observing a 7.98% negative year-on-year growth.

Specialized textile products earned $101.79 million with 40.64% negative growth. While terry towel products earned $16.24 million. Observing a 19.72% year-on-year negative growth.

Special woven fabric products earned $14.50 million and witnessed a 16% growth in the July-November FY2022-23 period.

Knitted fabrics exports earned $56.73 million. Witnessing a 57.38% negative growth.

Bangladesh proudly contributes in FIFA World Cup with value added sports goods

In 2014 world cup, Bangladesh exported $70 million valued sports goods, which was $100 million in 2018. For 2022, it will reach around $200 million.

The 22nd edition of the FIFA World Cup, known as the ‘greatest show on the earth,’ held in Qatar. Around this sports carnival, a potential path to a billion-dollar business including clothing has been created. Renowned brands such as Adidas, Nike, Puma, and Hummel, etc. have already written their name on board as tournament and team kit sponsors. Like every season of this tournament, Bangladesh apparel makers are dreaming big to ship jerseys, jackets, and kits in a large scale and many of them already shipped and some are on the way to export.

The ‘Made in Bangladesh’ tag represents this country in FIFA For one decade Bangladesh has been producing World Cup jerseys

and kits. Many of the visitor’s jerseys, mufflers, flags, caps, short pants, winter clothes and other materials are made by Bangladesh apparel factories. In the 2014 world cup, Bangladesh exported $70 million valued products and in 2018, the value raised up to $100 million, According to BKMEA which is 11.43% high. For 2022, industry leaders hope to ship around $200 million in products to different buyers.

Almost 100 Factories are engaged in making sports items. Chattogram-based knitwear manufacturer Sonnet Textile is one of them. This company has already delivered six lakh pieces of FIFA T-shirts with the green and red ‘Made in Bangladesh’ label, to be worn by the football fans in the gallery.

Epyllion Group is making FIFA world cup attires for M&S which has been shipped in October. Around 36 thousand pcs of garments like t-shirts, pullovers, joggers, shorts are being made in this group whose value stands at approximately US $5 lakh. Epyllion is also making 10 thousand pcs attire for PUMA.

Mehedi Hasan Soykot, Merchandiser of Epyllion Group said to Textile Today, “Bangladesh should produce high-value products by existing basic garments to achieve its benchmark. We feel happy to be involved in the tournament with the jersey-making process.”

Narayanganj-based Fatullah Apparels exported 2.5 lakh shirts for the 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia along with replica kits for supporters of different countries. This time, Fatullah has not sent any kit for the Qatar world cup.

Tahsin Ahmed Sina, CEO of Islam Group said to Textile Today, “We have a strong cotton-based market but in the case of synthetic yarn production we’re lagging behind in cost while China dominates. And recent day’s gas and power crisis disrupts our business to touch the goal. I think, if we can overcome these main two challenges we’ll roar in the sports sector undoubtedly.”

MB Knit Fashions sent 12 lakh shirts to eight countries like Brazil, and Argentina for the world cup football in Russia in 2018, and sent 8 lakh jerseys in the 2014 world cup although they didn’t send any jerseys for the Qatar world cup so far.

Besides, Fakir Apparels sent 50,000 pieces of fan jerseys to a German buyer in the last world cup.

Viyellatex exported world cup garments for its PUMA customer in the last football world cup.

Kenpark doesn’t produce world cup garments but they’re working for the Columbia Sportswear brand. Last year they shipped around $70 million valued sports attire for this brand & set a target to ship $100 million this year. Recently they shipped 7 thousand pcs jackets, joggers, and t-shirts for Columbia Sportswear brand

Abir Basak, Marketing & Merchandising Department, Windy Group

Bangladesh in World Cup

which will be used for professional car racer ‘Bubba Wallace’ and his brand.

LIDA Textile & Dyeing Ltd, a concern of LDC Group has shipped around 1.5 lakh pcs France, Belgium Portugal, Brazil, and Qatar fan jerseys for Kipsta, a brand of Decathlon in August.

Arkay Knit Dyeing Mills of Palmal Group exported 25 thousand pcs t-shirts for PVH in the last world cup. Unimas Sportswear Ltd shipped around 5 thousand pcs Brazil, Argentina, and Qatar, etc fan caps for Walmart buyers at the end of July.

Masco Group a renowned knit-based supplier in Bangladesh, has worked for the Qatar World cup. Md. Shohel Rana, Manager of Merchandising Department of Masco Group said, “We’re not regular sportswear maker, shipped only 16 thousand pcs fan t-shirt for France’s Celio shoppers for the upcoming world cup and also sent 15 thousand pcs jersey in 2014 Brazil world cup.”

Decathlon, one of the largest sportswear retailers in the world, is sourcing sportswear apparel from Bangladesh and expanding its activities and business quite aggressively.

Md. Tanvir Ahmed, Operational Process Manager (Supply Chain) of Decathlon Bangladesh said to Textile Today, “If Bangladesh invests more in synthetic yarn and fabric sector, the sportswear industry will grow simultaneously as 60-70% raw materials have been imported from abroad. Besides, factories should come forward to create highly skilled technical personnel to make Bangladesh more desirable and attractive to customers. ”

To catch this market, factories need to boost innovative technologies, products, services and business models. Logistic facility, port handling capacity, power, skilled labor, environment and labor right will also be burning issues.

Sector leaders think that if Bangladesh focuses highly to produce high-value product baskets like sports, lingerie, activewear, suit-blazer, and critically oriented attires along with emphasizing its own design by reducing dependence on basic items, then it would be easier to touch $100 Billion landmark.

INNOVATION: IT ’ S IN OUR DNA

swisstextilemachinery.ch

Vevey, Switzerland, 1819: François-Louis Cailler invents the now-familiar tablet format for chocolate. His simple idea makes chocolate available and affordable worldwide. Today, one billion Swiss-made chocolate bars are produced each year.

Invented in Switzerland. Where the same innovative spirit drives textile progress today.

Figure 2: Bangladeshi factories contribute to FIFA by exporting large scale products in every world cup tournament.

Bangladesh in World Cup

Bangladesh poised to attract more investment

Arif-Uz Zaman

In order to attract investment, the government of Bangladesh has recently conducted road shows in various countries including the United States, United Kingdom and Dubai. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina recently described Bangladesh as a safe place for investment in a meeting with businessmen of the countries during her visit to India, United Kingdom and the United States.

Speaking as the Chief Guest at the inauguration of 'Made in Bangladesh Week-2022' organized by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) recently, PM urged foreign businessmen and entrepreneurs to choose Bangladesh for investment and sourcing.

The PM said, “The country's investment-friendly policies, along with duty-free and quotafree facilities for Bangladeshi products in various countries around the world, are attracting foreign investors. I also request the country's business leaders to welcome foreign investment. You adopt their technology, knowledge in your industry.”

Sheikh Hasina said, “We are establishing 100 special economic zones across the country. As a result, Bangladesh has now

become the most favorable destination for investment and sourcing in the world.”

Bangladesh has developed the communication system including Trans-Asian Railway, Trans-Asian Highway and development in waterways, airways, railways, etc. are creating an excellent environment for investment in Bangladesh.

Recently, the Prime Minister inaugurated and laid foundation stones of 50 industrial units and infrastructure in various economic zones on the occasion of the golden jubilee of the country's independence. Industrial units along with Karnaphuli Drydock Special Economic Zone, Administrative Building of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar (BSMSN), Jamalpur Economic Zone, Srihatta Economic Zone and Sabrang Tourism Park, 20 km Sheikh Hasina Sarani, 230 KVA Gridline and Substation at BSMSN have been inaugurated.

100 Economic Zones have been established in different parts of Bangladesh to attract the foreign investments. The economic zones are expected to provide direct and indirect employment to around one crore people. A target of production and export earnings of around $40 billion has been

set from the regions. Out of the planned 100 economic zones, the government has already approved 97 economic zones. Out of this 28 economic zones are in progress.

Besides private investors, big investors from USA, China, and Japan are showing interest. South Korea has already pledged major investment in an economic zone.

The government set up the Investment Development Authority six years ago to reduce investment complexity. This authority has launched more than 50 one stop services. Although there are still some problems, they are trying to solve them quickly.

Bangladesh Government provides special funds for export-oriented industries, working capital facilities for affected industrial and service sector enterprises, working capital facilities for small (including cottage industries) and medium industries, social protection programs for distressed workers in export-oriented garments, leather goods and footwear industries. Under a total of 28 packages, a loan of 2.37 trillion taka is allocated at very low interest.

BD's investmentfriendly policies attracting foreign investors

Developed communication system including Trans-Asian railway, highway, waterways, airways attracting foreign investors

The government is providing cash assistance and other facilities to continue the growth of readymade garment exports. Facility of duty-free import of raw materials in warehousing facility, facility of opening letter of credit, import of machinery at low duty and loan facility for purchase of raw materials at very low interest from Export Development Fund (EDF) are provided.

$40 bn export earnings target form 100 special economic zones

Figure: Bangladesh’s investment scenario.

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The secret behind success of Fashion Power Group

Fashion Power Group is a diversified agglomerate which has vertically integrated apparel and textile manufacturing facilities, with concerns in Printing, Embroidery etc. Fashion Power Group started its journey in 2003 and till date, it has resulted in a conglomerate of 08 concerns comprising forward and backward linkage factories -- among them, Fashion Power Bangladesh Ltd. is our parent company and the export-oriented garments industries Fabrica Knit Composite Ltd. (Vertical Setup of Knit Composite), FNF Trend Fashion

Ltd. (Woven Project), Taharat Composite Ltd. (Knit Composite), Tazkia Composite Ltd. (Combined with Knit and Woven), FSD Printing & Packaging Ltd., Far-Sur Young Fashion Ltd. and Esotiq Lifestyle Ltd. Besides, to make one stop service, introduce packaging and printing factory named Tahmid and Twalha Accessories & Printing Ltd. and Anik Poly & Packaging Industries Ltd.

Throughout its journey, Mr. Mijanur Rahman, Managing Director & CEO, Fashion Power Group and Director, BGMEA has a phoenix-like

fairy tale transformation in his life. Starting his career as an employee at a garment factory –he has transformed himself into a successful garment entrepreneur.

Back in 1998, young Mr. Mijanur Rahman came to Dhaka in hunt of a better life. Through the course of time – the thousands of apparel workers and the trade’s vibrant nature enthralled and drew him in this business.

Under the versatile leadership of Mr. Mijanur Rahman, Fashion Power Group has been able to create a dynamic and vibrant

Mijanur Rahman, Director, BGMEA and Managing Director, Fashion Power Group (FPG)

Mijanur Rahman, Director, BGMEA and Managing Director, Fashion Power Group (FPG)

working environment with people having national and international exposure.

Recently in a conversation Mr. Mijanur Rahman shared his journey, pathways and views on Bangladesh’s overall apparel sector with Textile Today.

Journey of Fashion Power Group

Mijanur Rahman: Fashion Power Group is a diversified agglomerate that has vertically integrated apparel and textile manufacturing facilities, with concerns in Printing, Embroidery, etc. FPG started its venture in 2003 and within a short span of time it has curved out its niche in the industry.

To ensure its all-out diversified support, Fashion Power Group integrated one-stop service stations in all of its projects. In addition, FPG is robustly upholding the compliance standard along with fire safety and CSR activities as well as the client CoC.

Fashion Power Group supplies topnotch quality apparel to globally prominent brands and retailers and is intensive on safeguarding

the reputation of Bangladesh’s readymade garments (RMG) and textiles industry.

However, the success of Fashion Power Group didn’t come all on a sudden. From its initial days, the FPG made very clear strategies on how it aims to have impacts to the country and the world.

Having said that, behind the Fashion Power Group’s success, there are a lot of contributions – which has enabled us to come this far. But most essentially, I will highlight that I have been very honest throughout my whole career. I have never deceived any of my customers/suppliers knowingly in my 25 years of my career & journey. And I think this the most essential recipe for my success, as when you keep your customers/suppliers happy – they also provided me with topnotch products. The relationship between me and my customers helped each other in thriving. Countless times it happened that I helped my suppliers when they were in tough times, similarly, they also pulled me up in my dire times.

Side by side, as a businessman, my only dream was to move forward in a balanced manner – following the moral of honesty. Because, I will only thrive if this apparel industry, my suppliers, customers and workers survive. This is my motto throughout my 20 years of readymade garment (RMG) entrepreneurship career. Thus, Fashion Power Group reached its pivotal success.

Transparency and long-term relationship are the core value of Fashion Power Group. And to accomplish our vision by practicing corporate governance, being transparent in our operation, nonstop perfections of qualities and work process through state-of-the-art R&D, developing expertise, sharing and needs, consistency of commitment, caring the social ethics and environmental parameters with maintaining networks with the relevant area.

Having said that, at present, Fashion Power Group has altogether 8 concerns with a 12500 workforce – with annual earnings around $160 to $170 million.

Figure 2: Mijanur Rahman sharing FPG’s success with Amzad Hossaind Monir, Head of Business Development, Textile Today

Fashion Power Group is a fully integrated vertical company –knitting, dyeing, all-over printing, cutting, screen printing, sewing, washing, finishing, packaging and logistics. Today, Fashion Power Group is a vertically integrated manufacturer and exporter of garments for men, women – meaning, this group has consolidated all stages of production starting from knitting, dyeing, finishing to cutting, sewing and packing under one roof. And we source 90% from in-house and the rest of the 10% i.e., sweaters and shirts, we source outside.

In terms of capacities, FPG produces 3 million Pcs of apparel monthly. While its monthly Knitting production capacity stood around 1,50,000 Kgs, dyeing 6,00,000 Kg, and 6,00,000 Kg of finishing capacity.

Progress of Bangladesh's textile & apparel industry

Mijanur Rahman: Our textile and apparel industry has transformed into one of the most ecofriendly and compliant globally. Despite this leading position, it is demoralizing that brands and retailers are not offering us ethical prices. Whereas, other Asian manufacturing giant countries

have grabbed the higher end of apparel with more market share. Though their green foothold is not as strong as ours.

The paramount reason is that over the years Bangladesh has grown into the apparel forward business giant – while we lack in the backward linkage. A good portion of our raw materials, finished goods are imported –meaning despite investing millions of dollars – we will not be able to grab the opportunity as our margin is eaten away by a huge amount of import. And we suffer to make our businesses making more profitable.

It is high time to focus on the textile backward linkage industry. This import-based mentality is also creating a lot of challenges for us. For instance, importing from China usually takes a couple of weeks and in this era of industry 4.0 and fast fashion – this delay is rendering us obsolete. The faster we can make the importexport process the quicker the money circulation process will be. Like at present, we are working on 120 days lead time – making 3 consignments annually and instead, if we can deliver in 45 to 50 days like in China and Vietnam

– then it will make more money circulation and export earnings. To be able to do that, we need more and more backward linkage investment to achieve in-house capability.

Having said that, developing capacity on man-made fiber (MMF) will give us a price advantage along with product diversification.

In addition, I will also say that ease of doing business needs to be more polished to smoothen our operation. Yes, the country has progressed a lot in recent years but there are some glitches in customs, bonds, etc.

Overall, for holistic growth, we need support from the govt., all the stakeholders and the entrepreneurs. Only then we will be able to reap the benefit fully.

Best strategy for non-traditional markets

Mijanur Rahman: I think that we have a massive opportunity in nontraditional markets. The overall non-traditional market growth was 10.55% in July-October FY2022-23. Most importantly to grow more, we have to focus on country and product branding. For instance, we recently successfully concluded the weeklong ‘Made in Bangladesh’ week.

Figure 3: Mijanur Rahman closely observing FPG’s operations.

Having said that, we need to do extensive branding in different promising markets South America, Africa, Australia, the Middle East and other markets – regarding our apparel product capabilities. Just like our competitor countries, we have to organize regular fairs through country-related trade bodies, embassies and other related bodies to engage the market buyers.

For instance, the Middle East is a very near market for us and it has immense potential for us. Not only that, apparel is re-exported to African countries from hubs like Dubai and Saudi Arabia. So, these markets hold enormous potentials.

BGMEA’s approach to explore new market

Mijanur Rahman: BGMEA and the colleague of us have been exploring all the promising markets. As the leading trade body, BGMEA has been playing an active role, I must say.

We are working, visiting various potential markets, and their embassies to open up these markets for us.

We are also working closely with the government and other related agencies to solve issues. Hopefully, we will see the benefits of these valuable efforts for Bangladesh’s textile and apparel industry.

Global economic slowdown

Mijanur Rahman: At the moment, due to the unstable global scenario western countries are suffering a lot due to the energy crisis. As a result, we have witnessed some crises. But right now, the govt. has given their utmost effort to solve the situation. And things are under control right now – thanks to the govt. for solving the issue at the earliest time.

Capacity expansion & order plan

Mijanur Rahman: I will say the RMG industry needs to be careful about capacity expansion. As

unplanned capacity expansion has created a lot of challenges for us. Some of us are taking orders by undercutting. These practices give the buyers unethical influence over us.

Like I said earlier, instead of forwarding capacity increase –we have to focus on backward linkage capability – high-end fabric development, R&D, design house, chemicals, etc. overall, we have to develop value-added apparel item manufacturing skills. Because we have to keep in mind that a buyer will not increase a couple of million pieces of basic knit products overnight. Even though retailers and brands sometimes push us for capacity expansion – but we will have to keep in mind that they will move the order to a cheaper alternative or defer payment if the market witnesses any trouble. As manufacturers, we have to make our moves in a calculative way. Only then we will be able to avoid such situations.

tones LNG annually from Brunei

NA Tania

LNG imports from Brunei could begin early in the next year.

In a meeting with the visiting Bangladeshi delegation in Brunei, the two sides discussed about making a long-term agreement.

Bangladesh wants to get a maximum of 1.5 million metric tons (MT) of LNG annually from Brunei to deal the existing gas crisis situation in the country. For this reason, the Ministry of Electricity, Energy and Mineral Resources of Bangladesh is expecting a 10-15 year contract with the country.

A bilateral meeting on energy cooperation between Bangladesh and Brunei Darussalam was held in Brunei on Thursday (November 24). There was a discussion about the import of energy products including LNG.

Bangladesh State Minister for Power, Energy and Mineral Resources Nasrul Hamid and Brunei Prime Minister's Office Energy Deputy Minister Yang Mulia Dato Seri Paduka Awang Haji Matsatejo bin Sokiawv led their respective countries in the bilateral meeting. The Deputy Chief Information Officer of the Ministry of Power,

Energy and Mineral Resources, Mir Mohammad Aslam Uddin, informed this through a circular.

After the meeting, Minister of State for Electricity, Energy and Mineral

In the context of the current energy crisis, importing of an average of 2 lakh 10 thousand tons of diesel on deferred payment from Brunei was discussed. It was informed in the notification that a new agreement should be made with the country on these issues. Brunei has agreed to expand areas of energy cooperation and the other areas of cooperation.

Resources Nasrul Hamid said that fruitful discussions have been held to increase the area of energy cooperation. Brunei Darussalam will supply 1 to 1.5 million metric tons of LNG annually. It is expected to receive this LNG from the beginning of next year.

Bangladesh imported a total of 3 lakh 25 thousand 975 tons of diesel from Brunei Darussalam from 2014 to 2016. Due to the condition of having a 100% own refinery, it was no longer possible to import diesel from related companies in Brunei. The circular also informed that the previous conditions with the country have been relaxed.

On October 16, Bangladesh and Brunei Darussalam signed a memorandum of understanding for cooperation in the supply of liquefied natural gas and other petroleum products. After that a bilateral meeting was held between the delegations of the two countries.

The Bangladesh delegation included Senior Secretary of Energy Department Md. Mahbub Hossain; Chairman at Bangladesh Petroleum Corporation, ABM Azad; Petrobangla Chairman, Nazmul Ahsan; Converted Natural Gas Company Managing Director Zaved Choudhury and high commissioner to Brunei Darussalam, Nahida Rahman Shumona.

Figure: Bangladesh to import 1 to 1.5 million metric tons of LNG annually from Brunei. Courtesy: Collected

Huawei ties-up with Textile Today as an Innovation Associate

The world’s top innovative company aims to ease energy crisis with intelligent power solutions in textile industry

Sayed Abdullah

Getting a constant energy supply is one of the biggest challenges at the present time. As the world’s politics is getting heated up – the demand for continuous energy supply is ever more vulnerable. In such a reality, along with the global textile and apparel industry (T&A) – Bangladesh’s T&A industry operations i.e. spinning, weaving, dyeing and garmenting have also fell victim to it and are not gaining the right momentum.

In this critical scenario, solar power has emerged as the alternative solution for energy and electricity for sustainable textile operations. To generate renewable energy, Huawei Technologies – a global leading provider of information and communications technology (ICT), solar tech, infrastructure and smart devices – has been working in Bangladesh for the last 24 years.

Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited has become more noteworthy than ever to move towards alternative energy sources and focus on green energy options like solar panels to move the country towards de-carbonization. Holistically,

Huawei has been doing exceptionally well in the decarbonization and digitalization of energy with an intelligent power solution for the industry. Realizing this, Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited has come forward to bring innovative and alternative energy sources to the textile and apparel industry jointly with Textile Today Innovation Hub (TTIH) one of the ‘Textile Today Platinum Associates’.

On 18 December 2022, Liang Weixing (Jack), Managing Director, Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited and Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) on behalf of the respective companies.

Huawei’s Fusion Solar will provide new generation string inverters with smart management technology to create a fully digitalized Smart PV Solution. Liang Weixing (Jack) said, “We are very happy to sign an MoU with Textile Today and in the future, we will cooperate together to aid the textile and apparel industry to be more capable in renewable power. For

Figure 1: Liang Weixing (Jack), Managing Director, Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited and Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today signed an MoU on behalf of the respective companies.

the Bangladesh market, in terms of renewable energy, solar power has the most potential. Also, solar energy has a very bright prospect in Bangladesh.”

“As you know that the global energy price and sourcing situation has changed. And renewable energy has become a necessary alternative in Bangladesh. That is why Huawei is helping Bangladesh’s govt. and the industries to get more green power. Which will also improve the environment.”

“We hope that with Textile Today we will be able to provide more training and awareness/benefits regarding renewable power among the textile and apparel industry people. And I hope we will achieve the target very soon.”

“At present, the whole world is going through a power crisis. So, what are the available alternative energy options – we have seen that in Bangladesh’s case – biomass or geothermal option is not feasible. Neither have we seen mentionable progress in the wind or hydropower sector.” Md. Eousup Novee, GMInnovation & Strategy, TTIH said.

“Among the 22000 MW electricity generation in Bangladesh, only 2% comes from renewable energy sources. And solar holds only 1% share.”

“We say that innovativeness is the new competitiveness in the Bangladesh textile and apparel industry. Huawei, in particular, has long been working globally and in Bangladesh in an innovative way,” Md. Eousup Novee Bablu GM-Innovation & Strategy, TTIH

“Huawei has countless innovative solutions. The company wonderfully captures the photovoltaic electric effects of sunlight. And with this, Huawei caters, transmits and distributes the power for industrial usage and integrates into the national grid.”

“Being an Innovation Hub – Textile Today has been continuously working with innovative solutionproviding companies. And Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited is one of the most innovative companies globally – we are excited to work with Huawei. Together, we can bring a real change in the textile and apparel industry – in a more innovative way. Most importantly, in Bangladesh, one of the main challenges is the lack of data. Here Huawei and Textile Today can jointly overcome the challenge.” Md. Eousup Novee concluded.

Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited has been providing solar rooftop new generation string inverters with smart management technology to

create a fully digitalized Smart PV Solution. Huawei’s solutions make any PV power plant run more efficiently and through better intelligence, in addition, easy maintenance makes Huawei utility-scale PV power generation the best choice for Bangladesh.

In terms of rooftop solar safety, which is the most important aspect – Because there are many instances of fire cases globally – Huawei Technologies prioritizes rooftop solar safety.

Huawei provides enhanced intelligence for PV systems through inverters and management systems and has made the technology much safer. For instance, Huawei has developed an AI function that monitors and detects ‘arc faults’ to protect against sparks that could cause a fire: In less than 0.5 seconds, the system is shut down to protect the PV system from fire hazards – this makes our arc[1] fault circuit interrupters (AFCI) more than 2 seconds faster than the industry standard.

Huawei has brought this AFCI technology to the Bangladesh market to keep our solar solutions free of fire hazards.

At the signing ceremony Marzia Tabassum Prithy, Business Department, Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited; Amzad Hossain Monir, Head of Business Development; Sayed Abdullah, Sub-Editor, Textile Today were also present at the event.

By partnering with Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited, the ‘Textile Today Innovation Hub’ will expand to a larger scale in the alternative renewable energy transformation. And through this collaboration, the textile and apparel industry will be able to generate more awareness regarding the benefits of renewable power.

Textile Today is acting as an effective and efficient innovation hub’, which regularly supports, facilitates, innovates, and enhances factory suppliers, suppliers, professionals, apprentices, etc. factory suppliers, suppliers, professionals, learning, etc. The ‘Innovation Hub’ platform works more effectively to enable partners to place the platform’s knowledge, communication, and networking leverage on the market as their innovation-driven business.

Figure 2: Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited and Textile Today team sharing a happy moment at the event.

WALKING TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT SOLUTIONS FOR THE

LEATHER & FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

Customer and consumer demands are driving up standards in the footwear and leather supply chain, presenting the industry with a range of challenges to remain competi�ve, profitable and sustainable. Stakeholders are increasingly demanding products that are not only safe and good quality but also manufactured in an environmentally and socially responsible manner.

We offer a comprehensive range of service across the en�re footwear and leather supply chain.

Footwear and leather product tes� ng

Inspec�on

Mold preven�on solu�on

Fi�ing and sizing services

Safety footwear cer�fica�on

Technical audit of footwear factories and leather tanneries

lab.bangladesh@sgs.com https://www.sgs.com

Technical consultancy

Govt. maintained PSI for selected emerging markets

Socially responsibility solu�ons

Systems and services certification

Carbon and energy efficiency

ECOSECURE product mark certification for footwear & leather products

Bangladesh's RMG makers getting far below FoB prices than competitor countries

Textile Today Analysis

Recently, International Trade Centre (ITC) recent report titled 'The Garment Costing Guide for Small Firms in Value Chains' claims that Bangladesh's FoB prices are lower than even Pakistan and Cambodia –In addition, the prices the Bangladesh's RMG makers get is far below the global average rate. While Vietnam, Indonesia, Turkey and Mexico like apparel manufacturing countries are always getting paid above global average.

Contrary, time and time, it was exposed that for a basic knit T-shirt in Bangladesh, buyers pay $1.47 FOB price. While, they source the same quality T-shirt from India with $2.14 FOB. Industry leaders opined that most of the times buyers come here with the mindset to pay less or see the country as a cheap sourcing destination.

Although, ITC report signifies that the unruly reality does not lie with the end-consumers as they are willing to pay better prices to some apparel making countries but rather less to supplying countries that are impotent to meet their needs.

ITC collected data from the USA Govt. Office of Textile Apparel (OTEXA), and examined 10 of Bangladesh's most vital exports for 2020, matching their FOB prices with those of their 10 biggest competitors for each product. From the ITC tables, it is revealed that Bangladesh gets rates ranging 32% to 83% lower than the highest rates paid to other suppliers in its competitor countries.

The report highlighted that those garment manufacturing countries have evolved from a simple manufacturing operation into a complex service industry – are getting the better deal in terms of better FOB prices. While some RMG manufacturing countries have remained focused on simple cut and sewing operations, provide few services and produce commodity-type garments – suffer the most.

“To stay in business, these companies need to expand their services. All-inclusive costing is an essential step for this expansion. Accurate costing and valuing are the first step to move up the value chain. Without that, the all-important business case cannot be made,” said Pamela Coke-Hamilton, Executive Director, International Trade Centre.

Here are some of the top exporting apparel items of Bangladesh and their FoB prices and growth comparison with other competitor countries: For instance, the ITC report showed that men's woven cotton trousers made by Bangladeshi garment exporters got on average $7.01 per piece against its world average rate of $7.72 in 2020.

The report highlighted that Bangladesh received 9.20% minus than the international average rate. While, the same product made by Vietnam gets $10.38, Mexico $8.97, Cambodia $8.81, Indonesia $8.74, India $8.41, Sri Lanka $8.0 and Pakistan $7.10.

Men’s cotton jeans FOB prices of top 6 exporting countries (In $) Source: US Government O ce of Textile Apparel for 2020 -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80

Growth compared with world average price Men’s woven cotton shirts

The fundamental problem

ITC report claims that the garment industry in the developing countries like Bangladesh is faced with a fundamental problem: increasingly the decisions made are based on an outdated model on reducing costs and therefore do not deliver the solutions required for a service-oriented industry that should focus on value.

The industry blame this on incompetent management. Where once CEOs held their position for a decade or longer, their life expectancies are now just two or three years. Blaming this on the inability to keep up with an ever-changing industry. And continuously search for better data and more sophisticated analysis to inform what is going on, the ITC report said.

Whereas in fact, the real problem lies with the decision-making process itself. We operate in a world where managers are increasingly more educated, with access to ever-more sophisticated tools, and yet often reach their most important decisions by asking veterans of the industry, the ITC report stressed. Fairness between the customer and the factory

Bangladesh Indonesia Philippines India Malaysia CAFTA-DR

Men’s MMF woven shirts FOB prices of top 6 exporting countries (In $)

Source: US Government O ce of Textile Apparel for 2020 -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0 5 10 15 20 25

Growth compared with world average price Men’s MMF woven shirts Bangladesh Vietnam India Indonesia Cambodia Mexico

Men’s cotton T-shirt FOB prices of top 6 exporting countries (In $)

There is a growing argument that customers (retailers and brands) should pay their factory suppliers a fair FOB price. This discussion began in lower labor rate industries up to the point at which they were often paying prices that were below factory costs. The data is clear, and many factories have been forced to close because of low FOB prices.

8.91 8.83 8.33 16.4 7.86 9.9 6.93 5.43 -24.1 -3.1

The conclusion is that the fault lies with the customer and therefore they should be forced to pay a higher FOB price. However, the report said if this problem is seen through using a cost-to-value analysis, then a different picture emerge. The problem is not that customers are paying these factories less, but rather that customers are paying everyone else more.

100

50

23.5 24.6 3.32

177.8 2.18

82.5 2.14

The data is equally clear. Customers pay a lower price because the value provided by the failing factories is worthless. Consider the following data from the OTEXA that analyses 10 of the Bangladesh’s most important exports for 2020, comparing their FOB prices with those their 10 biggest competitors for each product.

78.6 2.02 1.53 27.8 1.47 23.1

Out of top 10 Bangladeshi made products only – women's cotton trousers and men's cotton T-shirts – received rates marginally higher than the worldwide average.

69.1

200 Growth compared with world average price Men’s cotton T-shirt Bangladesh Pakistan Mexico India Cambodia Vietnam

The ITC report said, in each case, supplying countries such as Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Cambodia are consistently paid below world average prices. While supplying countries such as Vietnam, Indonesia, Turkey and Mexico are repeatedly paid above world average rates. The problem does not lie with the customers. They are willing to pay higher prices to some countries but rather less to supplying countries that are unable to meet their needs.

150 Behind the Scene Bangladesh Textile Today | December 2022 55

Bangladesh’s RMG industry reality and what buyers doing

Bangladesh's readymade garment (RMG) industry is the icon and leader in green factories – having the most number of USGBC LEED Certified factories.

At the same time, in recent years, industry’s valueaddition in terms of backward linkage textile, accessories and packaging, R&D, in-design house, washing has been phenomenal. Yet, the country’s RMG makers suffer for a better price. Worst yet, they are continuously offered lower Free on Board (FoB) prices for its RMG items from the global retailers and brands.

On top of that, in COVID-19 times, it was explicitly clear that most brands and buyers were not ethical in their businesses – as they hold the orders, did not clear payments and forced illegal discounts in the manufacturing countries like Bangladesh.

Bangladesh apparel industry leaders opined that most buyers have moved to open costing method and most disappointingly same buyer offers a better price while sourcing from a Chinese supplier – while lowering the prices in Bangladesh. This is really hurting the industry, as well as, the people.

Shovon Islam, Managing Director, Sparrow Group and Chairman of the BGMEA’s Standing Committee on Press and Publicity said, “I partially agree with the ITC report. In recent years a lot of value-addition has been done in Bangladesh’s textile apparel

industry. For instance, in the garment and denim washing segment value-addition is world-class. We are only behind Türkiye. Similarly in denim category, Bangladesh is a leader and we are producing worldclass denim products.”

“But, our main challenge is over reliance on 10 to 12 products and over capacity expansion– which has led to internal competition among us and less FoB,” Shovon Islam added.

“Similarly, over reliance on 10 to 12 products has put us in a tight situation. We must need product diversification to resolve this scenario. For example, our competitor Vietnam makes embellishment fashion products on same categories in-addition to more value-added products. What I mean is that instead of basic twill pants like us – Vietnam makes polyester made pants. Or in woven category, they increase fabric value and claim higher FoB prices.”

“So, we need to add value-addition to be in the same league. It does not mean a massive value-addition overnight. Rather, small but effective value-additions on our regular 10 to 12 products fabric development.”

“At the same time, instead of sticking on 10 to 12 products manufacturing – we need apparel product diversification. Like, when a factory has a wide array of product basket, it can easily eradicate lack of work order in a particular product. It will also remove the undercutting practice from our industry,” said Shovon Islam.

Prominent textile engineer Shah Jalal demises

Textile Today Report

Engr. Muhammad Shah Jalal, Chief Operating Officer at Fatullah Fabrics Ltd. recently breathed his last. Engr. Muhammad Shah Jalal was a prominent and wellaccepted textile engineer and put a significant contribution to the sector. His demise shocked the country’s textile industry.

In his illustrious career – the 19th Batch textile engineer from Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) – started his career as Asst. Merchandiser in OPEX Group back in 1998. Over the years, Engr. Muhammad Shah Jalal served as Convenor of Teccsu

(96-97); served as Operations Director at UNILLIANCE TEXTILES LIMITED; General Manager –Operations at Unique Designers Ltd.; Vice President (Marketing & Merchandising) at ANLIMA TEXTILE LTD; Deputy General Manager (Marketing, Merchandising and Planning) in Dird Composite Textiles Ltd. along with many other leading posts across the broad spectrum of the industry.

Engr. Muhammad Shah Jalal’s unparalleled leadership will continue to show the paths ahead for Bangladesh’s textile entrepreneurs.

Figure: Engr. Muhammad Shah Jalal demise shocked the country’s textile industry.

Cotton Club optimizes its cotton-polyester blended fabric dyeing process with Biotex CT22

FT Research Team

“We have thought a lot about the chemicals and dyestuffs that need less time and less energy. Now the time is to use such chemicals available in the market rather than just thinking. Also, textile universities should come forward to bring innovative solutions by creating industry-academia bridging. This could help us to be independent with our own backward linkage and save our export earnings,” Abu Shadate Faisal Mahamude added while sharing his thought with Textile Today.

As a part of the continuation of their sustainable practices, Cotton Club is working with a chemical product of Malaysian textile

chemical manufacturer Biotex to reduce the dyeing time of cottonpolyester blended fabric. The Biotex CT22 single-step soaping agent chemical has shown its success in reducing the dyeing process time, process water, and energy significantly by eliminating 5 washing steps from the conventional dyeing process of the cotton-polyester blended fabric.

“In cotton-polyester blended fabric dyeing, this Biotex CT22 chemical helps to eliminate the reduction, neutralization, and hot wash steps after the polyester dyeing. Rather we can move to cotton part dyeing after the polyester dyeing by just conducting a normal cold wash,” Said Md. Hadisur Rahman,

We are gradually moving towards sustainable manufacturing by using sustainable chemicals and the latest machinery that consumes less water and energy in dyeing processes. With our efforts, we have reduced around 25% water consumption last year,”

Abu Shadate Faisal Mahamude

DGM (Dyeing) Cotton Club.

Cotton club, a sister concern of Mondol Group, is manufacturing knitwear products since 1991 in Bangladesh. It is well known for its huge capacity for knitwear manufacturing and sustainable practices in the production processes. With the available cuttingedge technologies, this manufacturing group always remains at the forefront of sustainable manufacturing practices that reduce the environmental impacts of their production processes.

“In cotton-polyester blended fabric dyeing, this Biotex CT22 chemical helps to eliminate the reduction, neutralization, and hot wash steps after the polyester dyeing.

Md. Hadisur Rahman

Assistant Manager (Dyeing) Cotton Club.

Assistant Manager (Dyeing), Cotton Club.

It saves a lot of energy, water, and chemicals used in the eliminated steps in cotton-polyester dyeing for them by using the CT22 soaping agent, according to him.

Energy crisis is becoming a big barrier for the textile manufacturing industries in

After the polyester part dyeing, when we are using the Biotex CT22, we do not need to do any neutralization. We can directly go to the cotton part dyeing,”

Tanvir Amammed AGM (Dyeing) Cotton Club.

Bangladesh. If this situation continues, production capacity may drastically fall in the country. As the availability of sufficient gas pressure has become limited, reducing the production time for the batches could be a solution to keep the production capacity of the textile manufacturing plants. Considering this idea, Cotton Club has developed a new process with Biotex CT22 soaping for dyeing cotton-polyester blended fabric that has eliminated 4 conventional washes after the polyester part dyeing.

“A hot wash with the Biotex CT22 can replace the scouring, bleaching, hot wash, and neutralization steps of the conventional pretreatment process. After the polyester part dyeing, when we are using the Biotex CT22, we do not need to do any neutralization. We can directly go to the cotton part dyeing,” Tanvir Amammed, AGM (Dyeing), Cotton Club said when sharing his experience of using the Biotex CT22.

This elimination of the reduction process after polyester part dyeing shortens the dyeing process by eliminating about 4-5 baths from the dyeing process. It saves a lot of energy, time, water, and chemicals which ultimately reduces production costs.

“After the cotton part dyeing, we directly go to neutralization following a cold wash. Then again after a cold wash go for the hot soaping with Biotex CT22 which

simultaneously conduct reduction cleaning and hot wash of the fabrics,” Tanvir also added.

In the conventional process a hot wash is done after the soaping. Even the hot soaping with Biotex CT22 is conducted at 85 °C whereas the conventional soaping needs 95 °C temperature. Cotton Club finds better fastness to wash by using Biotex CT22 in their cotton-polyester blended fabrics dyeing. The CT22 soaping agent is a Blusign-approved chemical and it is a chemical of ZDHC Level 3. According to BIOTEX this soaping agent also reduces the COD load of wastewater which makes it very environmentally friendly and it can save a lot of chemicals from ETP operation.

Tanvir Ahammed also thinks that by using this process, he can complete both part dyeing of the cotton-polyester blended fabrics within 9.5 to 10 hours which usually takes more than 12 hours. That means in the situation of a severe gas crisis, this process could be a blessing for the manufacturers.

As a part of a project of Textile Today Innovation Hub, Md. Tasnimul Hasan, a 3rd-year student of BUTEX has conducted a study at Cotton Club on this process with CT22 soaping agent. He tried to find out the annual cost, time, energy, and water saving of this process in cotton-polyester blended fabrics dyeing.

“We have calculated the savings by considering the

cotton-polyester blended fabrics dyeing capacity of 5 tons/ day,” Md. Tasnimul Hasan said while sharing his experience with Textile Today.

According to his findings, it can save 60 million liters of water annually.

“This process takes 2-3 hours less than the conventional process. That means a huge amount of savings is achieved in terms of energy use,” Md. Tasnimul Hasan also said.

For the 5 tons of dyeing per day of cotton-polyester blended fabrics, this process with the Biotex CT22 can save of 20 Lakh Taka annually, he finds.

“As the reduction cleaning is eliminated in this process, it saves a lot of Hydrose that is used in the reduction step. Here our study finds that around 86000 kgs of Hydrose can be saved with this process,” he added.

This type of process innovation could be the means of surviving during the ongoing economic crises across the world and keeping our economy steady.

We have calculated the savings by considering the cotton-polyester blended fabrics dyeing capacity of 5 tons/ day

Md. Tasnimul Hasan 3rd year student of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX)

RMG and allied sectors claim major share in National Export Trophy

Textile Today Report

Recently, the government awarded top exporters with the ‘National Export Trophy’ for the maximum foreign currency earner of the country in the 2018-19 financial year. And not surprisingly, the readymade garment (RMG) factories claimed a big share of the total list of 71 exporters.

The Commerce Ministry and Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) jointly organized the program at the Bangabandhu Bangladesh-China Friendship Exhibition Centre in Purbachal.

Rifat Garments Limited, a company of Ha-Meem Group has been named the top exporter of the country in FY 2018-19 for being the top exporter in the period. And as a special reward, Rifat Garments Limited got the ‘Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Export Trophy’ for earning the highest ($250 million) through exports and to inspire exporters to endeavor for more exports. Its shipment growth stood at 18.95%, year-on-year.

Other gold-winning textile and apparel factories are: Universal Jeans Ltd., Badsha Textiles, Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd., GMS Composite Knitting Ltd., Envoy Textiles Ltd., Square Textiles and Noman Terry Towel Mills.

Sector-wise winners

In the woven garments sub-sector, Rifat Garments Ltd., AKM Knitwear Ltd. and Ananta Apparels Ltd.; received the award.

In the knitwear sub-sector, GMS Composite Ltd., Square Fashions Ltd. and Four H Fashions Ltd. received the award.

While in spinning sector, Badsha Textiles, Kallam Textiles LTD and Nice Cotton Ltd. received the award. While in textiles, Envoy

Textile, Akiz Textile and Nice Denim Mills Limited. received Export Trophy.

In EPZ’s 100% Bangladeshiowned readymade garments (knit and woven) category Universal Jeans Ltd. and Pacific Jeans Ltd. received the trophy.

In home textiles and specialized textiles category, Noman Terry Towel Mills and Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd received the award.

While Fardin Accessories Ltd. and R. M. Interlinings Ltd. won the trophy in other products and services.

M&U Packaging Ltd., Montrims Ltd.

and Uniglory Paper & Packaging Ltd. in packaging and accessories products.

While Square Textiles Ltd and Al-Salam Fabrics (Pvt.) Ltd. are receiving awards in the category reserved for exporters. In total, 71 exporters won the National Export Trophy in the 2018-19 financial year in appreciation of their contribution to the country’s foreign trade through higher sales, the addition of new products and markets, and maintaining compliance in FY2018-19.

2018-19 export trophy-winning textile and apparel factories Sector

Woven sector

Knitwear sector

Spinning sector

Name

Rifat Garments Ltd. AKM Knitwear Ltd. Ananta Apparels Ltd.

GMS Composite Ltd. Square Fashions Ltd. Four H Fashions Ltd.

Badsha Textiles

Kallam Textiles LTD Nice Cotton Ltd.

Textiles sector Envoy Textile Akiz Textile

Nice Denim Mills Limited.

EPZ’s 100% Bangladeshi-owned readymade garments (knit and woven) category

Universal Jeans Ltd. Pacific Jeans Ltd.

Other products and services sector Fardin Accessories Ltd. R. M. Interlinings Ltd.

Home textiles and specialized textiles category

Noman Terry Towel Mills Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd

Packaging and accessories sector M&U Packaging Ltd. Montrims Ltd.

Uniglory Paper & Packaging Ltd.

Reserved category for exporters Square Textiles Ltd Al-Salam Fabrics (Pvt.) Ltd.

Besides the Gold category, top exporters were also recognized in silver (24) and bronze (18) categories.

At the event, Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi said, “Our exporters are playing a vital role in the economic growth of the country by way of investing and creating jobs.”

Tipu Munshi said the government has taken various steps to overcome the current economic crisis.

He said the government is relentlessly working to make the country economically strong and establish a dignified position in the world market.

After 2026, duty-free market access for Bangladesh as a leastdeveloped country will not exist, according to the minister. “But

opportunities never cease to exist. It is only necessary to find them and work together,” he said.

At the event, entrepreneurs called for creating a skilled workforce, encouraging research and innovation, and adding new products in order to enhance the country’s competitiveness.

Md Jashim Uddin, President of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI), proposed refining the skills of workers to attain further economic progress.

Jashim said special attention should be given to the manufacturing and agriculture sectors for economic stability.

“Unnecessary expenditures and

the import of luxury goods should be reduced.”

After the country’s graduation to a developing nation, the export sector, which is one of the largest job providers in the country, Bangladesh would face competition in terms of price and quality, according to the FBCCI chief.

“The backward linkage industry should be established to enhance value-addition,” he said.

AK Azad, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Ha-Meem Group said, “The key market of Bangladesh is Europe where 71% of customers have tightening their budgets. Which is affecting our exports. If the present trend continues, the danger for a severe decline in exports would extend.”

DBL Group achieves 2 LEED Platinum Certificates

Staff Correspondent

Going Green with DBL Group, has achieved 2 USGBC (LEED)

Platinum Certificates for Jinnat Knitwears Ltd – RMG unit and Printing units. It is a great achievement for DBL Group and its sustainability endeavours.

DBL Group is one of the largest and 100% export oriented knit composite garments and textile manufacturing industry in Bangladesh with strong backward linkages.

With its vision “Extend our leadership through World Class Performance” DBL group started its business in 1991 and supplying

quality apparels across the world to the best of the retailers and the biggest brands of the fashion industry. Currently the group has facilities in spinning, fabric weaving, dyeing and finishing, garments, washing, packaging and printing.

DBL Group uses energy efficient machinery with less environmental impacts in all of its projects. It has the largest biological ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) in the country which has a capacity of 4000 cubic meters. The group is in process of installing another ETP with the capacity of 7500 cubic meters soon.

360 TSL now consulting 5 projects of DBL Group including DBL Industrial Park (Economic Zone) at Sylhet. 360 TSL is a pioneer and leader in Green Building Consultancy Services in Bangladesh and now consulting/consulted 279 Projects with 90 Company.

Ananta Ahmed, Managing Director of 360 TSL said, “I am very happy and proud to announce

you that, we achieved 2 USGBC (LEED) Platinum Certificates for “Jinnat Knitwears Ltd” as LEED Campus Project. It is a great achievement for DBL Group and its sustainability endeavors.”

He also thanked M. A. Jabbar, Managing Director of DBL Group and the entire team for the support and kind considerations and added, “I am very proud and honored to have the opportunity to work with DBL Group.”

DBL Group has adopted a growth plan which truly aims at DBL Group Vision to maintain the trust placed by the society and grow further as an independent business house for its customers, employees, associates and stakeholders.

Earlier in 2021, Jinnat Fashions Limited was awarded by George with the Ethical Compliance Award-2021. The award is given for environmental initiatives, engaging with industry standards and driving the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

Figure 1: DBL Group has achieved 2 USGBC (LEED) Platinum Certificates for Jinnat Knitwears Ltd – RMG unit and Printing units.

Huawei & Solar EPC jointly to implement 50 mw rooftop solar projects

Textile Today Report

Huawei Technologies Ltd. – the world’s leading ICT infrastructure provider – and Solar EPC Development Ltd. (SEPC) – a leading and fastest-growing solar power project developer and consultancy firm – have signed an agreement to work together to address the current energy crisis and move Bangladesh forward on its greening path. Recently, Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited,

Director, Liang Weixing (Jack) and Ezaz Al Qudrat A Mazid, Founder & Managing Director, Solar EPC Development Ltd signed an MoU on behalf of their respective organizations for this purpose.

At the signing ceremony Huawei’s Product Manager (FusionSolar Smart PV APAC) Huang Leo, Solar EPC’s General Manager (Operations & Development) Emamul Kabir and EPC & Development Manager, Sifat Ahamed were present.

Under the agreement, Huawei and Solar EPC will work together to turn the factories into ‘green factories’ by shifting garment factories towards green sources of energy. The targeted capacity is 50 MW by Q3 2023.

Huawei Fusion Solar will provide new generation string inverters with smart management technology to create a fully digitalized Smart PV Solution whereas Solar EPC Development Ltd. provides total quality, engineering and project management in solar PV projects.

In recent times, Solar EPC Development Ltd. and Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Ltd. team worked together for the successful commissioning of a 2.8 MW rooftop solar PV power plant at AKH Knitting & Dyeing Ltd.

Hengtong and Solar EPC jointly to implement solar projects

Textile Today Report

Hengtong Group Co. Ltd. and Solar EPC Development Ltd recently signed an MoU – where Solar EPC Development Ltd. (SEPC) – a leading solar power project developer will use Hengtong’s EPC turnkey service and maintenance technology in its solar projects.

Jay Ye, Country Director, Hengtong Group Co. Ltd. and Ezaz Al Qudrat A Mazid, Founder & Managing Director, Solar EPC Development Ltd signed the MoU on behalf of their respective organizations for this purpose.

Hengtong Group is leading group by providing diverse range of expertise covering fiber optical communication, power transmission, EPC turnkey service and maintenance, as well as IoT, big data, e-commerce, new materials and new energy. Hengtong is also China’s largest optical fiber and power cable manufacturer ranking among the world’s top 10.

Committed to innovation and social responsibility, Hengtong is steadily transforming to intelligent

manufacturing, with the aim of becoming the most advanced systematic integrator and internet service provider in the world.

In 2018, Hengtong Optic-Electric has developed solar project of 100 MW solar PV plant, when the solaraquaculture project was on a 25-year concession agreement with a total investment of $120 million.

Figure 1: Jay Ye, Country Director, Hengtong Group Co. Ltd. and Ezaz Al Qudrat A Mazid, Founder & Managing Director, Solar EPC Development Ltd signed the MoU on behalf of their respective organizations for this purpose.

Figure: Liang Weixing (Jack), Director, Huawei Technologies (Bangladesh) Limited and Ezaz Al Qudrat A Mazid, Founder & Managing Director, Solar EPC Development Ltd signed the MoU.

PM Sheikh Hasina inaugurates Japanese economic zone

Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina on Tuesday morning (06 December) inaugurated the Bangladesh Special Economic Zone, also known as the Japanese economic zone, in Araihazar upazila of Narayanganj. The economic zone would draw an investment of over $1.5 billion once it goes into full operation while it has created employment of over one hundred thousand people primarily.

Sheikh Hasina inaugurated the Japanese economic zone under a government-to-government (G2G) procedure virtually from Ganabhaban in Dhaka.

Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina called Bangladesh the most excellent place for investment in the world, seeking larger foreign and local investment for mutual benefit.

“Bangladesh is the most ideal place for investment in the world

as we offer maximum investment opportunities. So, I hope the overseas investment will come here and local people will also invest in their own country,” she said.

The impressive inaugural ceremony was held at the Special Economic Zone in Araihazar. The event was joined by Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (Beza) Executive Chairman Shaikh Yusuf Harun, President and CEO of Sumitomo Corporation Masayuki Hyodo and Japanese Ambassador to Bangladesh Ito Naoki among many others.

In 2016, Japan International Cooperation Agency commenced the initiative to conduct the feasibility study. Later in 2019, Sumitomo Corporation from Japan signed the deal with the Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority to advance the BSEZ.

Well-known businesses like Singer have already started construction of their set-ups at the economic zone. The Singer would make an initial investment of $79 million. While a contract has also been signed with German company Rudolf. Rudolf would make an initial investment of $7 million.

Contracts will be signed with two more Japanese investors after the opening program, while 30 additional Japanese companies and 10 other businesses of diverse countries have shown their concern to invest in that economic zone.

Land acquisition to set up the Japanese Economic Zone-2 have been completed while a proposal is also awaiting nod from the Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs for setting up another special economic zone dedicated to the Chinese investors.

Distinguished textile engineer Ashraful Alam departs

Textile Today Report

Distinguished textile engineer – Ashraful Alam – Founder and President of Benevolent Textile Services recently demised. Engr. Ashraful Alam was a well-known and acknowledged textile engineer and put a noteworthy contribution in textile machinery, equipment and raw materials through Benevolent Textile Services.

For more than 20 years, he has brought continuous product innovation to the sector. The versatile leader completed his

B.Sc in Textile technology from Bangladesh University of Textiles. He had also the opportunity to introduce latest state of the art rotary printing machine, laser engraving system and nova screens developed by SPGPrints B.V., Holland.

Engr. Ashraful Alam’s death shaken Bangladesh’s textile industry. He leaves behind his family, relatives and a mass of well-wishers to grieve his demise. Similarly, he has left behind a lasting legacy in the

industry which will remain to show the paths ahead for Bangladesh’s textile entrepreneurs.

“Bangladesh is the most ideal place for investment in the world as we offer maximum investment opportunities.”

Figure: Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina virtually inaugurates the operation of the Japanese Economic Zone in Bangladesh Special Economic Zone at Araihazar in Narayanganj district from her official residence Ganabhaban in Dhaka.

Courtesy: BSS photo

Textile Today Report

Figure: Engr. Ashraful Alam – Founder and President of Benevolent Textile Services.

Global denim market revives with prodigious potentiality

Textile Today Report

It was a roller-coaster ride for the global denim industry in the last two- and-a-half years as lockdown practices during the COVID-19 pandemic impelled people to stay at their home and work from homes practices were attributable to decrease the denim jeans market growth in 2020. Furthermore, closures of retail stores and production facilities and disordered export and import activities were some of the reasons for reduction in sales of the denim jeans in 2020.

However, denim is one of the major items that showed its true potential when it comes to export diversification with other apparel.

Besides that, the upcoming Christmas festival will see a reinstatement of fashion resilience in US markets, which will be more effective for the denim market.

NRF estimate that holiday retail sales during November and December will grow between 6% and 8% over 2021 to between $942.6 billion and $960.4 billion.

Global jeans market expected to reach CAGR of 6.7% from 2020 to 2025

Major manufacturers several business strategies, like geographical, capacity expansion, M&A, R&D, to boost sales

Leading denim jeans brands focusing on establishing new market opportunities

$88.13 bn

Global denim jeans market size by 2030

Figure 3: Global denim market prospects.

The global jeans market is expected to register a CAGR of 6.7% during the forecast period from 2020 to 2025.

Coming Christmas will see a reinstatement of fashion resilience in US markets, especially in denim market

Holiday retail sales during Nov and Dec will grow between 6% & 8%

Figure 2: Upcoming Christmas festival will see a reinstatement of fashion resilience in US markets, which will be more effective for the denim market.

For this, major manufacturers have undertaken several business strategies, such as geographical and capacity expansion, M&A, and R&D, to boost their sales. Also, these leading market players in the denim jeans market are primarily focused on establishing new market opportunities by entering newer markets in the clothing industry that are still in their developmental phase.

In August 2022, H&M (Hennes & Mauritz AB) inaugurated its retail footprint in Costa Rica and North Macedonia and introduced an e-commerce site in Uruguay.

Customers of denim clothing desire lot of aesthetic appeal, fit, wearing comfort, performance, and sustainability in all aspects of its production.

Figure 1: Coming Christmas will see a reinstatement of fashion resilience in US markets, especially in denim market.

Top denim supplier in USA in Jan-Sep 2022 & earned $739 mn

24.64%

Bangladesh's share in global denim market

80 mn yards of fabrics

Bangladesh's 40 mills denim annual production

Figure 4: Bangladesh's denim capacity.

Numerous advances in fibre and textile technology are presenting newer concepts in denim.

Conventionally, produced from 100% cotton and dyed from natural indigo, today’s denim is a highly transformed new generation fabric.

The highly flexible fashion denims are now worn by diverse people with mixed flavors. They are available in different varieties (stretch to bio-polished), colors (vegetable-based, indigo to sulphur dyed), fibre blends (most recent being softer, lighter, comfy silk for all weather denims), textures, drapes and embodiments suitable to the recent ‘athleisure’ trend.

In 2020, the global denim jeans market size was valued at $56.20 billion, in 2021 the market size was $70.71 billion, which is estimated to reach $88.13 billion by 2030. So, the increasing demand for denim boosting the denim market size significantly.

In the global denim market China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, India etc. are the main player as denim producing country.

Bangladesh denim – with its 40 mills who produce 80 million yards of denim fabrics -- has maintained its top position in the US markets, exports 42.01 percent to $739 million in the first nine months of this year, when it was $520 million in JanuarySeptember 2021, said Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA).

In the same period, Mexico came second in the denim export segment in the US with 18.99 percent year-on-year to $561.38 million.

And, Pakistan was the third largest supplier, clocking a 36.63 percent growth to $376.95 million, Vietnam was in the fourth position after it shipped denim items worth $348.64 million, up 25.12 percent year-on-year.

China poorly performed in the US market. Between January and September, denim exports from the country to the US increased by only 6.12 percent to $291.45 million.

The main reason for the significant fall in Chinese merchandise exports to the US is the dragging tariff war between the two largest economies in the world.

It has been opening up opportunities for garmentproducing countries like Bangladesh – who has 24.64 percent share in global denim market -- since orders are shifting from China to other destinations.

Meanwhile, the 13th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo held recently to showcase the country’s progress and new innovations in denim industry as well as attract new buyers.

Along with contributing to the country’s economic growth, the expo promoted sustainability, transparency, innovation, circularity, and responsibility in Bangladesh’s denim Industry.

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) President Faruque Hassan said, "A lot of new investments have taken place. Many laundry washing plants armed with the latest technologies have been set up. And there has been the development of a lot of technical know-how in the country."

BGMEA Director Mohiuddin Rubel said, “We have performed well in the denim sector over the last few years and the US is now our one of the major markets. However, due to the ongoing global economic crisis, our denim export earning began to decline from October. For this reason, the ongoing growth rate will come down at the end of the year.”

On the whole, to be an effective tool players Bangladesh needs to gain a competitive edge over their competitors to ensure long-term success in the global Denim market, which is constantly expanding.

Influence of the social media platforms is further expected to spur market growth. Moreover, the growing apparel market across the globe with the introduction of premium and branded products is likely to have a significant impact on the denim jeans market development.

Increase in demand for online shopping and availability of popular denim jeans brands on e-commerce platforms are expected to support the increase in sales of denim jeans during the forecast period.

Also, manufacturers are operating and owning their outlets to overcome counterfeiting practices, which further adds to the growth of the market.

World’s leading solution provider in the textile industry – Archroma is committed to innovation, quality, service, cost-efficiency and sustainability. At the same time, Archroma has been playing a key role in Bangladesh’s textile dyes and chemical industry for a long time. This reflection was also shown in the recently concluded Dhaka Apparel Expo 2022 within the weeklong ‘Made in Bangladesh’ mega event organized by the BGMEA. Where, Archroma exhibited its innovative, sustainable and value-added products at the expo.

The innovation-driven company is one of the leading symbols of hope for Bangladesh’s textile industry. Archroma is the partner of choice for the Bangladesh textile mills. The ‘symbol of hope’ tag is upheld through its innovation, sustainability, quality, service, and cost-efficiency-based solutions. To cater to the industry’s never-ending challenging demands – Archroma always comes out and fulfills the demand by providing sustainable, quality, and costefficiency-based solutions.

At the moment, one of the top demands in the textile industry is sustainability and innovation – and Archroma is providing support for the vision of ‘Made in Bangladesh’ through sustainability and innovation.

Engr. Syed Ismail, Bangladesh Country Head, Archroma said to Textile Today, “As the industry is putting its tremendous hope on us it is also part of our responsibility to give back by branding the country and its textile industry.”

Engr. Syed Ismail added, “Bangladesh’s global apparel share is just 7%. While the challenging global scenario is creating a multifaceted challenge. To come out of these challenges and to increase Bangladesh’s global apparel share – there is no alternative other than – value-addition, innovation, as well as, diversification.”

As the global leader in textile

Archroma exhibits innovative, sustainable and value-added products at

Dhaka Apparel Expo 2022

AH Monir

specialty chemicals – Archroma has a wide range of sustainable and innovative solutions – which will aid in optimizing dyeing processes to save energy and cost, as well as, move into new product diversification. For instance, Archroma recently launched the ‘DEEP DIVE’ complete system for maximum coloration efficiency with enhanced fastness, and dramatically reduce process time water consumption, chemicals usage, energy consumption by and importantly reduce CO2 emission. It ensures less fiber damage thus increasing the life cycle of a garment.

And Engr. Syed Ismail revealed that the country’s dyehouses are embracing this ZDHC and bluesign® compliant DEEP DIVE system enthusiastically.

Gen Z is rapidly moving towards sustainability and highly valuing sustainable apparel products – to cater to this demand, another of Archroma’s groundbreaking sustainable products is ‘POWER COTTON’ – a complete system which provides longer-lasting

end articles up to 50 washes, supporting the culture of wear for longer. At the same time, imparting a wash-durable softness to the fabric.

In terms of value-addition, Archroma’s Business Division name is Brand and Performance textile – so, by name Archroma helps its customers in branding and in increasing products performance. Which translates into value-addition. For example, Archroma offers an innovative product called ‘Pure Press.’ Its specialty is that it will provide wrinkle-free formal wear like suits or shirts. Also, it is odor free even after repeated wearing. Archroma is also giving Pure Tag –sanitized solution for ever-lasting freshness in wearers' garments. For sportsmen, the company has a solution which will give quick dry and comfort. The fabric will give a continuous cooling effect.

All in all, keeping the all-segment consumers in mind, Archroma provides all types of innovative and sustainable solutions.

Syed Mohammad Ismail, Country Head, Archroma Bangladesh representing Archroma at Dhaka Apparel Expo 2022

“People still have to wear garments and no one can beat our price”

While Tipu Munshi, Bangladesh’s Commerce Minister, was asked about the situation of Bangladesh he confirmed the slowdown in clothing exports, but noted that people still have to wear garments even during leaner economic times and no one can beat our price Asia’s factory output weakened in October as global recession fears and China’s zero-Covid policy hurt demand. Global factory output also weakened in October as inflation soared globally as supply chains still healing from the coronavirus pandemic were hit again by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. The situation is forcing consumers to rein in

purchases, said a report published in Reuters.

This has predictably affected Bangladesh’s readymade garment (RMG) industry, as insiders are wary about the upcoming months. Though they are expecting that Christmas sales may boost their outputs, however, also fearing it may not boost their exports.

According to various projections, European shoppers are likely to reduce their Christmas purchases by up to 22% which will disallow the top brands, importers of Bangladeshi apparel products, to clear their whole stock.

Industry insiders said that the

situation may not change this year and if the brands can clear most of their stocks during Christmas, only then they will place more orders.

According to the Reuters report, further US interest rate hikes are also expected to force most Asian central banks to prevent sharp capital outflows by tightening their own monetary policies, even if it means cooling already soft economies, analysts say.

Manufacturing activity shrank in South Korea, Taiwan and Malaysia in October, and expanded at the slowest pace in 21 months in Japan, highlighting the pain from slowing Chinese demand and stubbornly high import costs.

“Maybe you buy two out of four [garments], but you still have to buy it,” he said. “And no one can beat our price.”

Recently the Financial Times (FT), world’s leading global business publication, published a report saying, “Clothing is piling up at warehouses in Bangladesh as consumers tighten belts in the US, Europe and other big markets.”

The Financial Times said this quoting some manufacturers and government officials.

Manufacturers said the Financial

Textile Today Report

Tipu Munshi, Commerce Minister, Bangladesh

Times that orders in the world’s largest garment exporter after China had been slowing since July because of the war in Ukraine and sanctions on Russia, and their impact on inflation, interest rates and mortgages across the world.

“Everything has gone up, so the clothing budget has squeezed,” said Faruque Hassan, President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

“That’s why some of the brands, some of the importers have slowed down their orders.”

Hassan said that some retailers had asked Bangladeshi suppliers to stop making garments or to delay shipments for up to three months.

“That is having a huge impact because all our factories have bought fabric to produce the garments and now they are having a serious crisis.”

The downturn in global clothing demand comes as Bangladeshi government, which will face an election next year, contends with higher prices for imported gas, leading to power cuts that have hit some garment producers.

The opposition Bangladesh Nationalist party has staged large rallies in recent weeks in a bid to capitalize on discontent with a weakening economy ahead of the poll.

The report — which was filed by John Reed, South Asia bureau chief of the Financial Times — also mentioned that this month, Bangladesh turned to the IMF for help, and secured a $2.3bn credit facility and another $1.3bn from its Resilience and Sustainability Facility, meant to help poorer countries address climate change and other long-term challenges.

Unlike its regional neighbors Sri Lanka and Pakistan, Bangladesh has not faced a full-blown liquidity crisis. But its foreign exchange reserves have fallen this year against the backdrop of a

strengthening dollar and pressures on prices and consumer demand.

Clothing and textile production is by far the biggest industry in Bangladesh, which profited from surging sales when Covid-19 lockdowns eased and consumers indulged in ‘revenge buying’.

The south Asian country exported garments worth $42.6bn and textiles worth $2.6bn in the 12 months to the end of June, accounting for about 85 per cent of total exports, according to the BGMEA.

Making clothes for Walmart, Primark, H&M, Target and other global chains is a cornerstone industry that has helped lift many of its more than 160 million people, primarily women, out of poverty.

According to Ranjan Mahtani, Chief Executive of Epic Group, which has a factory in Bangladesh and a large business in the US, clothing sales “really spiked postCovid because there were so many stimulus cheques”, but were now falling again, leading to “huge” inventories at retailers.

In the first months of the pandemic, Bangladesh’s garment makers were hit hard when many retailers cancelled orders. Some responded by pivoting to making masks and personal protective equipment as demand for those products climbed rapidly.

“In a country that looks chaotic from the outside, everybody was really focused,” says Vidiya Amrit Khan, Director of the family controlled Desh Garments, which supplies brands including Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger in the US, and Crew Clothing in the UK.

“This was because we had to survive.”

Hassan, the BGMEA President, said that in the latest slowdown, retailers were not cancelling orders outright. Instead they were asking for discounts or factoring warehouse charges into what they paid manufacturers whose

clothing they could not sell immediately.

He added that the industry had asked the Bangladesh Bank, the country’s central bank, to press lenders to defer suppliers’ loan payments so that factories could give priority to paying wages and utility bills.

Power cuts have caused further problems at manufacturers.

“Energy is a problem and because of that, a very large section of the industry is going through terrible months,” said Syed Naved Husain, Chief Executive of Beximco, one of Bangladesh’s largest companies, whose customers include Target and Zara owner Inditex.

Husain said that he thought the industry should “buy energy at the cost it’s available”, even if it meant the cost of a garment shot up.

In a fiercely competitive industry with thin margins, clothing producers in Bangladesh are especially vulnerable to changes in global consumer tastes and demand.

As clothing chains respond to pressure from shoppers and shareholders to improve their sustainability practices, garmentmakers have invested in machinery and equipment aimed at reducing the use of water, power and other resources.

“What’s happening now is that fashion is under attack,” said Husain, whose company has installed solar panels, new denim washing machines and other equipment.

However, sector people also said that the sector needs a few more months, at least till March of 2023, to recover from the current losses.

Compliance BD Ltd., a leading field of fire protection engineering in Bangladesh

Engr. S.M. Abdullah Al Faruque

The readymade garment (RMG) industry plays a vital role in the socio-economic development of Bangladesh. Manufacturers in the sector are now very cautious about safety issues, including fire safety. Fire safety is important and necessary in the workplace in order to prevent and protect against the destruction caused by fire. Fire safety reduces the risk of injury and building damage that fires can cause. Developing and

NFPA-certified engineers and licensed technicians.

The mission of the company is to become the benchmark of fire protection and life safety provided throughout Bangladesh, proving the industry with quality, innovative service.

“Your building is our building” with such commitment each time we walk into a client’s building, we do not leave until we’re sure everything is done just right. Our 15 years of successful services are attributed to the fact that we take great pride in the fire and life safety we provide our clients. Alhamdulillah! We have more than 250 clients all over Bangladesh.

success for all our years of service. Compliance BD Ltd. consultants and engineers are seasoned professionals with in-depth, handson experience in their specialties. Their participation in audits in the industry and other sectors conducted by different regulatory organizations (e.g., RSC, NIRAPON, FSCD, etc.) gives them unique insight into code requirements and intentions. This insight not only enables them to provide practical, cost-saving solutions but also to act as powerful advocates for our clients with regulators.

Our specialties

We offer services and expertise are as below:

implementing fire safety protocols in the workplace is not only required by law but it is crucial to everyone’s safety that may be in the building during a fire emergency.

Compliance BD Ltd. is not only one of the leading and fast-growing companies in Bangladesh but also a one-stop solution in the fire sector. Through sheer commitment and determination, the founders have turned Compliance BD Ltd. into a successful, one-stop fire and life safety consulting and supplier company. Today, Compliance BD Ltd. boasts almost 15 years of experience in the industry with

Management as well as all of our administrative staff, field engineers, and technicians believe in respect, accountability, and honesty. Whether a client of 1 year or 15, we treat you with the same respect and honor. Approving a work order for us to complete? Leave it to us – we’ll remain accountable and ensure the job gets done as agreed. We’ll keep you informed every step of the way. Honesty is the primary pillar of

1. Design, supply, and Installation of Fire Detection System, 2. Design, supply, and Installation of Fire Standpipe System, 3. Design, supply, and Installation of Fire Sprinkler System Including the seismic bracing, 4. Design, supply, and Installation of FM-200/ Gas Suppression System, 5. Design, supply, and Installation of Lightening Protection system, 6. Design, supply, and Installation of PABX system, 7. Supply and Installation of Fire doors, Fire rolling shutters, and Fire curtains, 8. Supply and installation of fire penetration sealants and collars, 9. Supply and installation of Emergency Exit Light and sign, 10. Supply and Installation of Fire Extinguishers,

Figure 1: The mission of the company is to become the benchmark of fire protection and life safety provided throughout Bangladesh, proving the industry with quality, innovative service.

Figure 2: Fire safety is essential to the productive, efficient operation of your manufacturing facility.

11. Design the single-line diagram of a Substation, power system, and wiring system,

12. Supply, and Installation of BMS system,

13. Supply, and Installation of Solar Power solutions.

Fire safety related important issues

Fire safety is essential to the productive, efficient operation of your manufacturing facility. Because industrial and manufacturing facilities work every day in such high-risk environments, it’s important to make sure your machinery, your products, and your people are as protected as possible. It’s really a good thing that Bangladesh’s industrialists are, now-a-day, very proactive on ensuring fire safety. Below I will mention some issues those are frequently inquired by our clients and interested millers who want to install fire safety protection system.

Sprinkler system

A sprinkler system commonly activated by heat from a fire and discharges water over the fire area, which consists of an integrated network of piping designed in accordance with fire protection engineering standards that includes a water supply source, a water control valve, a water flow alarm, and a drain. The portion of the sprinkler system above ground is a network of specifically sized or hydraulically designed piping installed in a building, structure, or area, generally overhead, and to which sprinklers are attached in a systematic pattern.

Which building requires a sprinkler system

NFPA 13 is an installation standard

and does not specify whether a sprinkler system is required to be installed in a building or structure. NFPA 13 specifies how to properly design and install a sprinkler system using the proper components after the determination has been made that a sprinkler system is required. The administrative authority for requiring sprinklers within buildings rests with any of the following: the local building code; NFPA 5000®, Building Construction and Safety Code®; NFPA 101®, Life Safety Code®; International Building Code; or insurance regulations that typically specify the buildings and structures that require sprinkler systems. Where the building code does not require a sprinkler system but one is installed voluntarily, the requirements of this standard still apply to the portion of the building being protected.

NFPA 13 and safety factor for the water supply

NFPA 13 does not require a safety factor to be applied to either the water supply or the system demand. A safety factor ensures that more water than required is available. The use of a safety factor is considered good practice but is not required. Although NFPA 13 does not specifically, require the application of safety factors in any part of a sprinkler system design or installation, safety factors are implicitly embedded in many of the document’s requirements. However, when comparing the system demand to the available water supply, the designer should determine the reasonable worstcase available supply.

The occupancy and commodity classification

Proper hazard classification is critical because this is the first step in the design process that will determine the type of sprinkler(s) to use, the spacing and location

of the sprinklers, and the density/ area criteria that will be applied. A design based on an improper classification can negatively affect the system’s ability to control or suppress a fire when called upon to do so. It is important to note that a building or a system can have multiple areas with different hazard classifications. Such systems might be designed based on a worst-case scenario or designed for each specific area, hazard, or use, provided that adequate separation is provided and the owner/occupant understands the limitations of the use of each area based on Acceptability

of the occupancy classification

The final determination on the acceptability of the occupancy classification is the responsibility of the authority having jurisdiction.

Wet pipe sprinkler system

Ideally the inspector’s test connection is located at the end of the most remote branch line in the upper story. Such a location is not, however, required.

Engr. S.M. Abdullah Al Faruque BSc in EEE (DUET), Certified NFPA, (USA) Associate, Certified Fire Safety Manager, (FSCD) Bangladesh, Assistant General Manager, Compliance BD Ltd.

Figure 3: Fire safety is essential to the productive, efficient operation of your manufacturing facility.

Figure 4: NFPA 13 does not require a safety factor to be applied to either the water supply or the system demand.

Author:

One of the Global Leaders in Viscose Staple Fibre

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is the first fully integrated viscose rayon producer in Asia from renewable plantations to viscose fibres. Our 240,000-tonne capacity mill located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau, Indonesia uses the latest viscose rayon production technology to produce consistent, high-quality rayon for use in textile and personal hygiene products.

Decluttering digital space: A must known productivity tip

Nazmut Tarek

Digital decluttering has become just as important as twice-daily tooth cleaning. Particularly at this time, when the knowledge industry has largely shifted to online and remote work. If we don't learn to keep our online environments neat and organized, our mental health and productivity could suffer greatly. Cluttered digital environments can cause fragmented attention spans, fatigue, overwhelm, and impatience.

In this article, we'll take a look at how to start cleaning out digital workspace.

Clean desktop and download folder

There's absolutely no need for shortcuts on the desktop. Make sure to uncheck the box next to the option to create a desktop shortcut whenever you install an application.

Use Sorting hat folder to remove all the files from the desktop and download folder. Segregate them once in a week or month in each category like Docs, image (Jpg, Jpeg, Png, etc), Videos, zip file. Check

carefully whether it is really necessary or just delete them. If it seems necessary, give them proper names & move them to a related folder.

Remove junk file

Junk files are temporary files created so your computer or phone can perform specific tasks and that are now no longer needed. At one time, these files were helpful, because programs, apps, and operating systems needed to create temporary files to execute computing tasks. But after serving their purpose, these files become useless junk.

As junk files accumulate on your hard drive, problems can arise. As storage fills up, your device may get slower or experience other performance issues. To avoid these problems, it's important to delete junk files regularly.

Store information

Maintain a synced drive for all of your active files and folders, such as Google Drive, Microsoft OneDrive, iCloud Drive, Dropbox,

etc. so that it may access from anyplace and won't miss out. On the other hand, files that aren't needed every day can be stored on a portable hard drive, copied, and updated once a month, or saved in a cloud storage system to be backed up to different servers, so you never have to worry about losing the data you store on them. Your data will still be safeguarded in numerous other locations even if one server crashes.

It does have one drawback though— when it syncs, the computer performs slowly. It would be wise to disable the sync while working and enable it when you take a break.

Empty your email inbox

Ready to trash everything in your email inbox? No? You're not alone. A lot of us hesitate to throw away emails because we're afraid of missing a million-dollar opportunity or an important message. Well, don't! You are able to empty your inbox without deleting or putting any mails in the Archive bin.

Clear recycle bin

Recycle bin uses 10% of the total amount of memory on your disk partitions. You have a chance to recover any mistakenly deleted data because it preserves all temporarily deleted files and directories. When a file is deleted in Windows, the Recycle Bin receives a copy of the deleted file. An empty Recycle Bin is devoid of everything, while a full one resembles a waste basket filled with crumpled paper in icon. It's a good practice to occasionally clear the recycle bin because anything kept inside continues to occupy hard disk space.

Remove duplicate file

Duplicate file removal improves system efficiency in addition to freeing up storage space. It's all

too easy to start editing the wrong document when there are too many duplicate files, and you may also grow weary of hearing the same song repeatedly. There are two main advantages to deleting them: you'll free up a lot of disk space and you'll get rid of confusing copies of your files that weren't produced on purpose. Use File Explorer, run a few commands in Command Prompt, or use dependable third-party apps like – Easy Duplicate Finder to accomplish this.

Remove optional windows features

Search the Start menu for "Turn Windows features on or off" and you'll see a list of optional components. Disable as many of these as you like – you can always turn them back on if you need them. Windows 10 also comes with numerous pre-installed Store apps. Clearing these out will help to declutter your PC and increase speed. On the Optional features page, scroll to the Installed features section. Use the "Find an installed optional feature" search field to locate the feature you want to remove or scroll through the list of installed features to find it. Click or tap the Uninstall button, and Windows 10 will immediately start removing the optional feature from your system.

Declutter Your smartphone?

Most of our phones are a cluttered mess as files keep building through social media, messages, random clicks for pictures and browser cache files. The first step of decluttering would be removing the unused apps. Even some apps which you used occasionally can be kept hidden to minimize the home screen.

Backup your data to the cloud using services like Dropbox, Amazon Drive, Microsoft OneDrive, and Google Drive to free up memory on your phone. Consider which of your files consume the most memory—typically images, documents, music, and video files—and save them in the cloud rather than on your phone.

Cleaning up junk files can help free up information that's been sitting on your phone for years. Google's own Files app can be very handy removing junk files, duplicate files, blur pictures and unused apps.

Conclusion

Digital clutter makes up the majority of distractions in modern life. It can be an invisible burden that accumulates, exacerbates process inefficiencies, frustrates users in their daily activities, and has significant ramifications for business practice. It is a major productivity killer. It's high time to get rid of this clutter before it makes any more blunders. By developing systems to remove these stress points, we can focus our energy on more meaningful activities.

Nazmut Tarek Business Development Manager, Nahl Group

Author

Apparel export booms in new markets

Sayed Abdullah

Bangladesh Readymade Garments (RMG) export to non-traditional markets witnessed 24.17% growth in July-October FY 2022-23 period. And earned $2.45 billion in the period, the EPB released the data showed. The data also showed that all the major apparel export destinations have witnessed significant growth.

Of the total amount, woven products earned $1.15 billion, which was 29.90% higher than $0.89 billion in the July-October FY2021-22. On the other hand, knitwear goods fetched $1.29 billion, up by 19.45% from $1.08 billion in the same period the previous year.

Global hyperinflation has hit all markets. There are also fears of a looming global recession. As a result, the rate of new purchase orders is also quite low. As a result, there is considerable apprehension about whether there will be good growth in garment exports to new markets at the end of the year. Despite all these negative global scenarios –Bangladesh’s RMG export has done remarkably well. Apparel export to traditional and non-traditional export destinations alike has witnessed good growth.

Top performers in the non-traditional markets

As per the data, among the major non-traditional export destinations – Japan came out as the top performer with $453.91 million earnings in the July-October FY 2022-23. While the apparel export growth to Japan rose to 26.03%.

Another significant market for Bangladesh RMG –the Indian market has continued to shine. In the first three months of FY 2022-23, apparel export to India earned $397.16 million. The neighboring market saw a staggering 55.87% growth.

Garment export to another leading non-traditional market – the Australian market earned $294.93 million in the period. Observing a lean growth of 8.84%. In the July-October FY2021-22 period, apparel

export to South Korea reached $163.76 million and saw a 40.53% growth.

Apparel export earnings to Mexico reached $116.14 million and observed a 46.82% growth.

Russia’s market is still reeling from the ongoing crisis. Thus, apparel export growth to the country saw a 51.14% negative growth. And earned $90.23 million.

The data also showed that in other non-traditional countries RMG export reached $391.53 million. Recording a 50.85% growth in the first three months of FY 2022-23.

Apparel industry leaders feel that new destinations are needed to make Bangladesh’s garment sector sustainable. Entrepreneurs feel that fashion buyers have increased confidence in Bangladesh due to quality products and timely delivery. Experts say that several initiatives are needed to fully utilize the potential of the markets.

Faruque Hassan, President, BGMEA said, “The growth in non-traditional markets we have achieved so far is the outcome of the spirit we have shown in all the crises and the commitment. In the last few years, we made huge progress in the areas of responsible and sustainable manufacturing which has earned confidence on us. However, we need to look beyond the conventional pattern of business and growth, and prioritize investments in technologies, modernization, skills, efficiency, and diversification in the product range, which will add more value to our business and competitiveness.”

“BGMEA is working to facilitate exploration of new markets and to retain preferential market access. Thanks to the Government for the extraordinary support to explore non-traditional markets, which came at the persuasion of BGMEA. This has helped grow our export to non-traditional markets from less than a billion dollars to 5 billion dollars in the last 12 years.”

Bangladesh's apparel export to non-traditional markets grew by 24.17% to $2.45 bn

Export to Japan reached $453.91 mn with 26.03%

Export to India increased by 55.87% & reached $397.16 mn

Figure: Bangladesh RMG export to non-traditional market scenario in July-October FY 2022-23 period.

Deliver a Positive Impact on Climate and Nature

APR Story

APR’s approach to optimise efficiencies and reduce our environmental footprint is supported by our sister company APRIL’s efforts to reduce its emissions and implement biodiversity initiatives. Our APR2030 sustainability agenda outlines time bound science-based solutions to achieve our goals.

• Understanding our carbon footprint

As part of our APR2030 strategy, we have committed to having product carbon intensity reduction by 2030 based on a life cycle approach (LCA) using 2019 as our baseline. Ours is not just an APR gate-to-gate commitment but a cradle-to-gate approach incorporating upstream our value chain. Our operations have already adopted energy efficiency, importance of incorporation of renewable energy sources, reuse and recycling in our production processes and sustainable sourcing. Given the state-of-the-art practices, processes and technologies already embedded in our business, the challenge is identifying ways to reduce APR’s emissions against current baselines. We will undertake LCA studies periodically to track our progress.

• 100% renewable energy

Since commencing operations, we have strived to optimize our

energy processes and reduce our energy intensity, which was 6% lower in 2021 than in our first year of operation. APR has used 100% renewable energy to power VSF production since 2020. We purchase this energy from PT Riau Prima Energi (RPE), which operates multi-fuel and chemical recovery boilers that can supply more than 100% of our energy needs. We calculate our total energy needs using a mass balance approach based on the energy required to produce one tonne of VSF.

• Sustainable sourcing

To produce VSF, we source our raw material – dissolving wood pulp (DWP) – from five key suppliers: four direct suppliers and one trader. In 2021, we sourced a total of 233,456 tonnes of dissolving wood pulp to produce our viscose staple fibre, 93% of which was sourced locally from our sister company APRIL. The remaining 7% originated in Canada, the United States and Europe. Buying from sustainable sources is critical to upholding our sustainable viscose brand. In 2021, we exclusively sourced from Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC™) certified sources. All suppliers comply with our sustainability policy and Code

of Procurement Ethics (COPE) commitments and submit to risk assessments and due diligence against these requirements. If we identify non-compliance, we work with suppliers to address and rectify any issues through clear, time-bound corrective action plans to bring them into compliance.

•

Support for biodiversity protection

While we do not operate in the vicinity of any protected areas, APR is committed to supporting our suppliers in restoring natural landscapes as part of our decade-long strategy. Through collaboration, we can reduce our carbon footprint and positively impact climate and nature.

Follow our Fibre

APR’s bespoke traceability platform, followourfibre.com, lets APR’s customers and ultimately consumers to trace fibre back to where it was grown. The full transparency of its supply chain is visible on the app on the company’s website. These initiatives are all part of APR’s commitment to becoming a leading and responsible viscose staple fibre producer and providing value to our customers. www.aprayon.com

COP 27 and apparel sector: Realizing pledge towards ambition to action

Sabbir Rahman Khan

The 27th United Nations Climate Change Conference, also known as COP27, highlighted key steps for the apparel manufacturers to ensure lowering their carbon footprints. The apparel sector has witnessed three main announcements at COP27. Responsible sourcing, application of low carbon fibres into the manufacturing process and establishing industry-wide targets to help the sector become net positive – are included in the announcements. The sector, being the second most polluting industry after the oil and gas sector, need to adopt sustainable solutions to reduce its negative impact on the environment.

Environmental concerns and the apparel sector are closely intertwined. Evidently, the sector is unable to decarbonise its supply chains with the expected rate to keep global warming below 1.5°C. The major underlying reasons include usage of raw materials, production technologies, energy sources and traceability. Understandably, the supply chains of this sector are complex which led its manufacturing process to contribute to carbon emission. In this backdrop, panel discussions at COP 27 highlighted issues related to circularity, nature-based solutions, and the pledge towards achieving net-zero.

It is heartening to see the fruitful interaction among countries, activists, foundations, think-tanks, NGOs, private sector, and the subsequent investment groups. The common consensus was made on ensuring supply chain transparency across backward and forward linkages of the apparel manufacturing sector. Good news

is that issues on textile recycling was finally on the agenda.

Proactive discussions around fashion ‘greenwashing’ campaigns and the use of non-sustainable textiles have caught the attention of industry-insiders. These two issues are holding back the sector from making positive strides on its journey towards sustainability.

Also, industry-insiders agreed that their effort is the key to ensure the sourcing of affordable, verified, recycled fabric available.

At COP27, industry insiders and policymakers have brought the issue of adopting infrastructures which will complement their journey towards ensuring circularity. Myriad of research indicate that average 8% of total stock across all the apparel manufacturing sectors either got perished or being simply discarded or dumped on an annual basis. This amount equates to approximately USD163bn worth of inventory. It can simply be minimised if the sector can extend the lifecycle of garments through reselling or upcycling worn items and also, through recycling fabrics on an industrial scale. Doing these will help the sector to make real progress towards the necessary sustainability goals.

Globally, we are seeing increasing investments that are going into textile recycling facilities.

At COP27, one of the catchphrase was “Digital ID” technology, which is related to textile recycling. This technology will involve closing the circularity loop in recycling. It may

sound very technical but the idea behind it is pretty simple.

Another hot topic of the COP27 is “Greenwashing” accusations - the false claims of progress in the fight against global warming that can confuse investors and policy makers. Promises by manufacturers to achieve net zero emissions often amount to little more than greenwashing, according to a UN expert group report. It is strongly recommended at COP27 that brands must accept that there’s no room for empty promises. Brands’ eco-claims by must be evidence-backed and transparent. It is completely unethical to claim to be ‘net zero’ while not stopping to build or invest in new fossil fuel supply or doing environmentally harmful activities.

Greenwashing practice can’t save them for long as itemlevel environmental reporting legislation is coming very soon. Immediately, it will run as pilot basis for companies with a certain annual turnover in January 2023 in France. Thus, it is of timely measure for companies to adopt digital technologies. This will help them track and verify the composition and eco-credentials of their products. Only through meaningful collaboration, investment, acceleration of solutions, the sector can achieve its sustainability goals. This is the gist of COP27 for the apparel and fashion sector.

Sabbir Rahman Khan

The writer is a Knowledge Management, Communications and Advocacy Professional working for an international development organisation.

(The views expressed are personal of the author.)

Author

RIL offers a solution to textile waste with R|Elan™ EcoGold

RIL’s Biodegradable fabric R|Elan™ EcoGold with CiCLO® reduces environmental textile waste impact.

R|Elan™ Story

India-based integrated polyester manufacturer Reliance Industries Ltd (RIL) has launched R|Elan™ EcoGold with CiCLO®, a new fabric technology containing special chemistry that enables activation of the biomimetic biodegradation process. While ever increasing demand for eco-friendly products from eco-conscious consumers has enforced apparel brands and fashion houses to seek unique chemistry that can provide a biological solution to environmentrelated issues, R|Elan™ EcoGold with CiCLO® fabric offers a solution with its design to reduce the persistence of textile waste in landfills and other related conditions.

Today one of the major challenges faced by the environment is the accumulation of textile waste. In the fashion industry, a majority percentage of post-consumer textile waste, weighing millions of tons, end up in landfills. These waste textiles can take up to more

than 400 years to decompose.

In such a scenario, it is extremely important to be aware and take responsibility to come up with new path-breaking solutions that can ensure the reduction of textile waste in landfills.

R|Elan™ EcoGold with CiCLO®, a biodegradable fabric from RIL

The newest addition in the R|Elan™ eco-friendly technologies collection R|Elan™ EcoGold with CiCLO® presents an innovative effort that will help reduce the impact of unrecycled textiles on the environment. This technology enables microbes living in the environment to break down the materials and convert them into basic elements like carbon dioxide, water, minerals etc. just like they break down natural fibres. The chemistry used to make the product is proven to be safe for use in sustainable textiles by OEKO-TEX ECO PASSPORT, an independent certification system.

“We have introduced a new pathbreaking solution in sustainable fashion”

A source from RIL said that innovation and sustainability are at

the core of their R|Elan™ initiatives and continued: “To further strengthen the core, we have introduced a new path-breaking solution in sustainable fashionR|Elan™ EcoGold with CiCLO® that will help fight the issue of textile waste, conserve the environment and at the same time satisfy the consumer needs of style and sustainability. We are using one of the leading CiCLO® technology of Intrinsic Advanced Materials that makes R|Elan™ EcoGold based fabrics to degrade under specific conditions, thus reducing the persistence of textile accumulation in landfills.”

In the collaboration with Reliance and R|Elan™ EcoGold, Alastair Drew from Intrinsic Advanced Materials, CICLO stated that CiCLO® collaborated with Reliance to make products that people love and have a clear conscience about the impact that those products have on the earth. He noted: “Together, we will make a meaningful impact, one step at a time. R|Elan™ EcoGold will help apparel retailers globally by giving them access to eco-friendly fibres that can be used to make garments that will meet the needs of conscious consumers.”

Soko offers topnotch process optimized solutions for denim washing

BTT Interview

Based in Italy – one of the cradles of fashion – Soko Chemicals started the business three

generations ago providing chemical auxiliaries for the textile industry. Now Soko has a global network and is represented in Asia, North Africa and the Americas. Thanks to the passion and experience of the skilled team who always strive for a new solution.

Soko focuses on three main aspects: R&D, fashion concept and innovation hub. Soko Chemicals has a state-of-the-Art Laboratory for R&D – where fashion meets with innovation and technology. While Soko’s technicians work with passion to create new collections and innovate through new concepts. On top of that, Soko’s innovation hub innovates anticipating the market request through new concepts.

Recently Soko Chemicals participated in Bangladesh Denim Expo (15/16 November) and they launched some of their latest innovations and showcased their strong products – where Textile Today talked with Matteo A. Urbini, Managing Director, Soko Chemicals.

Textile Today: What are the chemicals you offering for the textile and apparel industry in this Denim Expo?

Matteo A. Urbini: Every year, Soko Chemicals participates in the Bangladesh Denim Expo as the Bangladesh market is one of the most important markets for us and this expo is significant. This time we are launching some of our latest innovations and showcasing our strong products for the Bangladesh market. Soko’s strengths is innovation and not only we provide conventional chemical products – rather we provide comprehensive and innovative solutions for day-to-day problems that garment manufacturers face during production.

Textile Today: What are the new/ special products among them? Share some features of the products.

Chemicals

Matteo A. Urbini: In Denim Expo, we have launched most innovative and sustainable ‘Soko

Matteo A. Urbini, Managing Director, Soko

House 53 (Elyria, Apt B1), Road 13 ( Ranavola Road), Sector 10, Uttara, Dhaka-1230

Stardust’ – its specialty is that it can solve a lot denim wash related issues. Stardust only consists of a single compound and give your denim from a raw look, to vintage premium or heavy wash look. Stardust is sustainable as it avoids stone wash and able to give extreme and efficient fusion abrasion. It also has less chemical process required as everything is included in it without the use of stones – starting from waterless condition. In conventional denim washing machine, Stardust requires really less amount of water. Finally, with the ozone cleaning, Stardust will provide a perfect vintage wash look.

Thus, Stardust creates a strong abrasion on the garments without the bath of water which the dry ozone will enhance and complete.

Textile Today: How does Black Magic of SOKO/Pure chemicals can help to optimize Sulphur bleaching? What is the impact of Sustainability?

Matteo A. Urbini: Black Magic is also pretty successful solution globally and in Bangladesh. We call Black Magic ‘the Bleaching Wizard.’ Black Magic optimizes

the Sulphur bleach by reducing the processes. Instead of two/ three conventional bath – Black Magic requires single bath at low temperature. Saving time, less fabric stress, less dangerous chemicals, ensuring energy saving and giving black denims better hand-feel.

Overall, a practical and cost effective solution for the denim market.

Textile Today: How does SOKO Chimica-Italy see Bangladesh's market potential?

Matteo A. Urbini: We are operating in the Bangladesh for many years. The transformation of Bangladesh’s denim and overall textile processing industry is huge. It has made some big strides in process innovation. And I have no doubt that the country will continuously make strides as a denim manufacturing leader.

And we are really happy to see that Soko Chemicals has a good number of customers in the country.

Textile Today: Say something about the recent R&D of

Soko. How is it contributing to enhancing product quality through its chemicals and services?

Matteo A. Urbini: Soko always focus on innovation. We have a state-of-the-art research lab with a small washing unit inside to test the chemical solutions which we provide to the market. Meaning all the chemical solutions Soko makes – we test it in our washing facility before bringing to the market. So, it is part of our DNA to ensure innovative solutions to the market.

Soko Chemicals target is to be one of the key innovator providing not only new products – rather new ideas, concepts and solutions.

Textile Today: There is continuous price pressure from brands and buyers. How Soko can help here. And what do you want to remark your customers about your products and services specialties?

Matteo A. Urbini: Soko’s solutions are best fitted for customers and top-notch process optimized solutions ultimately bring down production cost – which is a must in today’s continuous price pressure scenario. Our products are not only innovative – they can bring down costs of denim makers.

From my experience I will say that best solution come from best raw materials. So, whenever best available tools are being used – it will bring best results in terms more efficiency and lower cost. Like I said before, Soko not only provide solutions, but we also provide services. That is why we are regularly visiting the countries with our expert technician teams where our products are being used – to give technical services to our customers and to serve the markets. I wish best of luck for the Bangladesh denim market – as it is one of the very best denim manufacturing hub globally. And Soko is very proud that we can contribute to the country’s denim industry.

Figure: Soko Stardust features.

Bangladeshi companies vs multinational corporations - in terms of long term sustainability

Abdul Wadud, Senior Business Analyst, AK Khan & Company Ltd.

Like any other creation, a company goes through a life cycle. At different stages the priorities changes with the changes of the circumstances. At the initial stage, when a company starts its operation, it starts with identification of different jobs or activities and then identify different work flows or processes that are necessary to accomplish its tasks. These are put into a structure through benchmarking and development of Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs). Once the identification of different jobs, activities, work flows, benchmarking and SOP are completed and the resources are allocated, the company starts producing goods and services efficiently.

At this stage the owner looks after the whole thing and works as the manager. But once it reaches certain volume, it needs to be given a formal structure so that all the activities of the company is directed towards the long term goal against which the company started its journey.

In order to run an organization systematically, the structure should be such that drives all the activities of every individual, department and projects towards the long term goal of the company. It’s also very important to communicate the necessary information across the company without any distortion.

To make it happen, companies have to set the mission, vision and core values of the company around which an organizational culture and annually revolving strategic plans are built and implemented in the long run

to align all the activities of the company towards the long term goal. This also helps the shareholders of the company to operate sustainably through professional management and help entry/exit and ensure smooth succession plan of professional and ownership.

Public limited companies are more appropriate structure to exercise it with appropriate tax incentive, authentic reporting and regulatory compliances.

Multinational companies have successfully transformed appropriately in order to remain sustainable in the long run. Bangladesh became an independent country since 1971 and within a half century has become one of the promising countries in the South-East Asia for investment and the 100 public and private Economic Zones have created a unique opportunity for local and foreign investors to invest.

With that backdrop, we are hopeful that Bangladeshi companies would be greatly benefited by the foreign investors and eventually organizations would be run through appropriate modern structure and

Figure: Once the identification of different jobs, activities, work flows, benchmarking and SOP are completed and the resources are allocated, the company starts producing goods and services efficiently.

management practices in order to remain sustainable in the long run and accordingly a pool survey was conducted through LinkedIn and the results are shared for your review.

We hope that in the long run more Bangladeshi private companies would focus to run their companies systematically; like Multinational Companies, globally with long term sustainability.

What you should consider when choosing a DTG printer

There are many types of DTG printers that range in price and quality, so it’s important you find the best one for the way you work. Here are six key areas to consider to make sure you get the most out of your investment.

1. What is your daily production?

DTG printing is a substantial investment, so depending on your print volume, it may or may not make sense for your operations. For example, with the aeoon Maikuro DTG printer, you’d want to be reaching a minimum volume of 150 shirts/ day. The aeoon Compact model is best for 300 shirts/day and the KYO 12/3 is ideal for 800 shirts/day or more. Evaluate what throughput is needed to see an ROI.

2. Is the pretreatment process kept offline?

Separating critical processes is crucial to minimize failure points and downtime, and maximize efficiencies. Machines that integrate printing with other processes – such as pretreating and drying – have far too many failure points that put your entire

operation at risk.

3. Are quality and ink usage optimized?

The higher the print quality, the more your customers will be coming back. Print head performance is crucial in order to achieve the best possible results. When you consider buying a DTG printer, ask about the smallest picoliter droplet size, that the printheads are able to produce, and the maximum DPI (dots-perinch). Colour accuracy is another important aspect to consider. Ideally, the printer’s RIP (raster image processor) provides colour profiling, which covers a large amount of PMS colours, without requiring additional spot colours.

4. Is continuous training and responsive support provided?

You’re not just choosing a printer, you’re choosing a partner. DTG is an evolving market and the learning curve can seem overwhelming at times. Your partner should be consultative and collaborative, helping determine and develop the best solution for the way you work. Continuous training should be provided to

ensure you’re always maximizing your investment. Having a dedicated support team is just as important.

5. What is the useful life and cost per print?

The total cost of ownership includes initial price, weekly output, ink costs, operator costs and more. Ideally, you want a printer that’s capable of the highest output with one operator to achieve the lowest cost per print. Reliability and useful life are other big considerations. True industrialgrade printers, such as the aeoon KYO 12/3 have a useful life of more than 17 years.

6. Will the printer integrate and be scalable long-term?

Avoid printers that come with proprietary software. Proprietary software limits your ability to choose the software that best matches your business model, and restricts your ability to change or add software solutions. Choose a printer that will integrate with a software solution of your choice to ensure the solution is scalable as your business grows.

aeoon Story

06 Gulshan Avenue, Level-3, Block- SW (H), Gulshan-1, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh. Telephone: +88-02-48812148 E-mail: info@dusterbd.com Web: www.dusterbd.com

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SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN MORE SUSTAINABLE COTTON PRODUCTION

Launched in 2020, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol was designed to set a new standard in more sustainably grown cotton, ensuring that it contributes to the protection and preservation of the planet, using the most sustainable and responsible techniques. It is the only system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement in six key sustainability metrics and article-level supply chain transparency.

The Trust Protocol provides brands and retailers the critical assurances they need to show the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk.

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Ecology and economics of cotton in Bangladesh

Dr. Md. Fakhre Alam Ibne Tabib, Additional Director, Cotton Development Board, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Textile industry in Bangladesh was patronized by the Father of the Nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman in 1972 by the establishment of Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation (BTMC) a state-owned enterprise. During 1974-2005 under the Global restructuring processes such as Multi Fibre Arrangement (MFA) in the North American market and preferential market access to the European markets, led to the emergence of an export-oriented garment industry in Bangladesh in the late 1970s and ensured the garment sector’s continual success.

Bangladesh‘s cotton production

Bangladesh domestically produce only 2 lakh bale that meet 2-3% of the demand. Thus, meets its textile industries cotton demand through import – and Bangladesh is the 2nd largest cotton importer with annual demand of around 8.5 million bales every year – as Bangladesh’s textile industry with $15 billion investment feeds the country’s apparel sector.

Bangladesh is the 2nd largest cotton importer and 4th consumer in the world (USDA, 2022). The demand for cotton fiber in Bangladesh is increasing day by day and 8.5 million bales (480 ponds/bale) of cotton fiber was imported by expending $3.0 billion in the year 2021 (Mirdha, 2021).

edible oil in the same year.

Cotton is mainly grown for its smooth natural cellulosic fiber of great economic importance as a raw material for fabric. The American upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum) has dominated in the world production and covers 90% of the total production. In Bangladesh, upland cotton contributes 96% of its total domestic production. Cotton is peaked as seed cotton from the field and after gin it is separated into seed (including fuzz) and fiber through ginning process.

The plant itself and fiber have versatile uses into daily lives of the people. The fiber is used for cotton cloth, while the short fuzzy linters provide cellulose for making plastics, explosives, paper products and padding for furniture. The cottonseed is crushed to produce oil and the meal and hulls become animal feed and fertilizer. The leaves are re-ploughed to enrich the soil fertility and stalks are used as fuel in the rural areas in many countries including Bangladesh.

It is estimated that 100 kg seed cotton produces 35-45 kg fiber and 55-65 kg seed. From these amount of seed 9-12 kg (16-18%) cotton edible oil can be extracted. Due to its low cholesterol level cotton seed oil became favorite in most of the cotton growing countries and ranked fifth in production among vegetable oils in the world. In Bangladesh, a cotton seed oil refinery was established in Kushtia by the private initiative and producing cotton edible oil successfully. Also cotton oil cake is popular in Figure 1:

While, the country’s domestic cotton production in the cropping year 2021-22 was about 0.2 million bales with 6.35 bales ha-1. The value of domestically produced cotton business was estimated BDT 1002 crore by saving $ 71.52 million (Tk105=1US$) foreign currency for import substitution of cotton fiber and

Production and yield of domestic cotton

the fish farms in Satkhira, Khulna and other areas of South-Western region of the country.

Also, other initiatives have been taken for the diversified use of cotton by the private and public organizations inside the country, like- Jutoon (fabric mixture of jute and cotton fibre) by the scientist of Bangladesh Jute Research Institute (BJRI), initiative has been taken by Bangladesh Academy for Rural Development (BARD) for making ‘Khadi fabric’ using domestic cotton and pulp for making paper using cotton plant by the scientist of Bangladesh Council of Scientific and Industrial Research (BCSIR). Bangladesh Handloom Board in collaboration with Cotton Development Board and Rajshahi University revived Muslin fabric by the invention of ‘Phuti Karpas’ (Gossypium arboreum var neglecta) - a variety used for making Muslin fabric during the Mughal period. A Muslin hub was established in Narayanganj in the recent year to produce Muslin fabrics that contribute to the economy of Bangladesh.

Another economic importance of cotton production is related to climate change issues. Cotton crop is resilient to climate change. It is grown in a wide range of temperature ranging from 21°C to 45°C and

also tolerant to drought and salinity. Cotton is a carbon negative crop which sequestered more CO2 than the Green House Gases (GHGs) emitted during its cultivation process.

The fiber quality of domestically produced upland cotton are similar to shankar-6 but better than other Indian and CIS cotton in fiber length (>30mm) and strength (>30 GPT).

Cotton ecology

The plant is a multi-branch shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, Egypt and Asia. Cotton is grown on a variety of soils ranging from sandy to sandy loam and clay looms with high and medium high lands across the world. Cotton being a deep-rooted crop grown under rain fed and irrigated conditions. Cotton grows best on neutral to slightly alkaline soils and a pH of 7.0 to 8.0 is considered optimum. The minimum pH for successful cotton cultivation is 5.3. Cotton is sensitive to salinity only during germination and early crop establishment but stablished crop is extremely tolerant to salinity with a threshold E.C. of 7.7 ds/m to 17.7 ds/m E.C. Though temperature requirement varied among the cotton growth stages, the optimum temperature ranging from 21-340C, but sustain growth up to 450C for a short period. Cotton requires minimum moisture with 500 mm mean annual rainfall. Abundant sunshine is ideal for cotton production and cloudiness adversely affects boll setting and growth.

Two types of cotton have been growing in Bangladesh, one is Gossypium hirsutum and another is Gossypium arboreum. Gossypium hirsutum or upland cotton was introduced soon after establishment of Cotton Development Board and Gossypium arboreum or Deshi cotton/Comilla

Cotton have been growing in the Hilly areas under Jhum cultivation system from times immemorial. Currently, upland cotton is growing in 39 districts of south-western, northern, central and eastern hills covering agro-ecological zones (AEZ) of 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 25, 26, 27, 28 and 29. Soils of these areas are very low to low

Figure 2: Different products derived from cotton plant.

matter (SOM) content, very low to low nitrogen and low to medium potassium & phosphorus nutrient availability and soil pH is most of the areas are neutral to alkaline (5.2-8.2) and some areas are acidic (4.1-6.2) in nature. The annual rainfall pattern of 70% cotton growing areas is ranging from 1500-2000 mm, 15% areas are 2000-2500 mm, 10% below 1500 mm and only 5% areas are more than 2500 mm.

Cotton crop cultivation in Bangladesh

In respect of country’s land resources, 0.2 million hectares of land in the unfavorable ecosystem- i.e. Char land, Barind Tracts, Hill Tracts, Saline and Agroforestry areas can be brought under cotton cultivation to boost up domestic production to meet 20-25% of the national commercial demand. This increase in cotton production can save at least US$ 674 million (as per current cotton price) each year and contribute to the edible oil demand of the country.

Considering the present situation Government of Bangladesh has been taken several strategies to boost up the cotton production in the country. These are- replacing existing varieties with hybrid

and Bt cotton, replacing tobacco areas with cotton, introduction of American upland cotton varieties in the hilly areas, intensify cotton cultivation through introduction of intercropping cotton with short duration leafy vegetables, spices and pulses, relay cropping with chili, aurum, turmeric etc., introduction of three crops cropping pattern through modification of planting pattern, growing cotton in the consecutive seasons- Kharif-2 & Rabi in a year. With this view, cotton research should be strengthen focusing on development of hybrid and short duration high yielding cotton varieties with desirable fiber characteristics, high density planting system (HDPS) to increase per unit yield, generation of agronomic management technologies to increase productivity, improving soil fertility by integrated management of organic and inorganic fertilizers, identification of bio-pesticides in controlling cotton insect pest and disease management. Besides, research on stress management has been prioritized to expand cotton cultivation in the unfavorable eco-system. Also public-private initiatives through contact farming and value chain development and national & international collaboration in necessary for the development of domestic cotton production.

Author: Opinion Bangladesh Textile Today | December 2022 100

Raw materials come from verified European source

150 tons - 100% linen yarn

300 tons - monthly linen blend yarn capacity Oeko-Tex® & European Flax certified

Figure 1: NZ Tex’s linen standard.

NZ DY Flax Spinning Ltd

A story of world class linen yarn manufacturing facility

FT Team

NZ DY Flax Spinning Ltd – a concern of NZ Tex Group – is the first of its kind spinning factory and one of the largest spinning mills in Bangladesh. In addition, it manufactures top-class European linen yarns and fabrics – supplying both yarns and fabrics to renowned global high street retailers for their premium clothing racks.

NZ Tex Group is one the jewel of Bangladesh’s textile and apparel industry. Since its inception in 1982, NZ Tex Group is constantly working to provide new and innovative clothing solutions. NZ Tex Group is one of the most diversified yarns and fashion fabric manufacturers across both nondenim and denim category. Over

years of development – with R&D and innovation at its core – NZ Tex Group has evolved rapidly to compete as one of the most advanced groups of companies in the textile industry. NZ made every effort to involve in all areas of textile industry like spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing.

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan (Jitu), Director of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), and Managing Director of NZ Tex Group has been at the helm of this leading Group. He is also the Chairman of NZ DY Flax Spinning Ltd and his visionary leadership is worth mentioning that foster the industry innovation and new product adoption.

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan (Jitu) said, “Back in 2007 when I went to South Korea to buy a cotton spinning factory, I first came to know about linen manufacturing. I was very curious about it, as in terms of sustainability and unique wearability of Flax/Linen– the natural fiber which is grown in a sustainable manner in verified European destinations.

“Later, I have done subsequent feasibility studies as technical know-how to integrate this into NZ alongside cotton spinning, which is now the only linen spinning set up in Bangladesh.”

Globally, linen fabric demand has grown over years and China is the market leader (80%) in growing

linen fiber and manufacturing fabrics. Due to China-US strains, the western countries are also looking for an alternative sourcing country where NZ proudly take the advantage from this region, catering quality linen products for the major high street retailers

across the globe.

“It took us a long way down to reach here where the supply chain was very challenging, and investment was almost 3 folds more as compared to cottonbased industry. We had to build customers confidence while lining this up at international level and revolving with customs, project finance and baking at the same time.

We had to build customers confidence while lining this up at international level and revolving with customs, project finance and baking at the same time. We always wanted to set an example for the textile industry in Bangladesh by initiating Linen/Flax manufacturing that add values.

“We always wanted to set an example for the textile industry in Bangladesh by initiating Linen/ Flax manufacturing that add values."

In terms of barriers, BTMA Director stressed that the govt has been encouraging the textile entrepreneurs for product diversification while there are still imposed VAT and tax on linen raw material import. “For cotton import there is no VAT and tax and the same level playing field is must needed for Linen/Flax raw material import, encouraging more entrepreneurs to come into play to this area. Only then high-end apparel market (RMG) can grow into manifold,” Saleudh Zaman Khan concluded.

NZ Tex Group, Director, Md. Nadiruzzaman Khan added, “In terms of markets, we are currently exporting to South Korea, Japan, India, Belgium, and some other destinations both the yarns and fabrics.

Explaining unstable market situation, Md. Nadiruzzaman Khan also added; “We always try to make a win-win business proposition for our customers maintaining a fair price policy and our buyers know the current global scenario and raw materials prices has gone up than ever before”. Md. Nadiruzzaman Khan stressed that having top-notch vertical setup and skilled manpower – NZ DY Flax Spinning can cut down any unwanted cost easily. All of our flax/raw materials come verified European source only – namely from Belgium and/or France. It has a daily capacity of 5 metric tons for 100% linen yarn leading to a 150 tons of capacity monthly. In terms of linen blends – with cotton, lyocell, modal, viscose, triblends, four-blends – the factory has 300 metric tons of capacity monthly leading to an overall 450 tons of capacity monthly both for the linen an linen blends.

At present, NZ DY Flax Spinning Ltd exports 50%-60% of Linen/ Flax yarns and rest 40%-50% yarn is used in its own facility to produce 100% linen and linen blended fabrics.

To ensure quality, from Fiber to fabrics, NZ DY Flax Spinning maintains world-class quality protocols. This pledge requires quality control mechanism backed by skilled and trained workforce supervision. Use of latest technology and industrial

Md. Saleudh Zaman Khan Director of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), Managing Director, NZ Tex Group

Figure 2: NZ DY Flax Spinning Ltd team with Textile Today team.

“

Linen\Flax’s price valueaddition is significant compared to cotton fabrics. For example, if a pure cotton fabric in a garment fetch to $2, the linen made fabric it will fetch into $5 or more on the same garment.

“

Hackling, Drawings Sliver, Roving formation to final spinning process.”

“Wet spinning process is mainly used to manufacturing the linen yarns which is different from the cotton manufacturing process. There is no other exception than wet spinning process to produce finer linen yarns, Sung added.

Wet spinning process is mainly used to manufacturing the linen yarns which is different from the cotton manufacturing process. There is no other exception than wet spinning process to produce finer linen yarns,

operation model, NZ DY Flax Spinning monitor all quality indicators by implementing required protocols at different levels.

Gum Jea Sung, Project Director of NZ DY Flax Spinning Ltd explained the whole process to Textile Today Factory Tales team.

“After collecting the linen fiber from flax plant, the production process starts from Scutching,

Jea Sung Project Director NZDY Flax Spinning Ltd.

Md. Ehsanul Haque, Marketing Director of NZ Tex Group highlighted on linen fabrics.

“We are producing both tops and bottom quality linen fabrics cross men, women and kids category.”

In terms of price value proposition, Md. Ehsanul Haque added, “Linen\ Flax’s price value-addition is significant compared to cotton fabrics. For example, if a pure cotton fabric in a garment fetch to $2, the linen made fabric it will fetch into $5 or more on the same garment.

In terms of main export destination, Md. Ehsanul Haque also added, “Our main buyers for Linen are mainly from Europe, while US brands are trailing at below par when linen come into play in the garments.

With regard to certification, he said, “We have both Oeko-Tex® and European Flax credentials that cover verified fiber traceability and sustainability itself which is really exclusive that our customers can use premium ‘European Flax’ tag on their garments.

We always try to make a win-win business proposition for our customers maintaining a fair price policy and our buyers know the current global scenario and raw materials prices has gone up than ever before”

Md. Nadir Uz Zaman Khan Director, NZ Tex Group

Gum

Ehsan Haque Marketing Director NZ Tex Group

Increasing drought and natural uncertainties causing higher cotton price

Textile Today Report

Cotton is the paramount raw material in the global fashion industry. Each year around 27 million tons of cotton is produced worldwide. Although in 2022/2023 crop season global cotton production has been hampered due to unseasonal rains (in India), drought (in China and USA), flood (in Pakistan) have damaged the prospect of higher production.

USA, China and India are the top three cotton producers – account for about half of the globe's harvested cotton.

World’s third largest cotton producer i.e. providing roughly 35% of global cotton and biggest exporter of cotton, USA’s cotton farmers are facing an acute drought. As a result, America’s cotton production is expected to drop to about 14 million bales, down 21% from last year, according to United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

One of the biggest cotton producing states Texas –where about 40% of the U.S. crop is produced – are facing an grave drought that is costing the industry billions.

A forecast by the USDA, this year an absence of rain and severe heat is pushing growers in the state to desert almost 70% of the cotton acres they planted earlier this year.

Kody Bessent, CEO, Plains Cotton Growers said to media, “It has one of the harshest year since 1950.”

Cotton prices which surged in the spring of 2022 due to the increasing Chinese demand have since fallen amid economic uncertainty and a strong US Dollar.

Cotton is an ideal crop for the Texas region because of its drought-tolerant qualities and its ability to bring in a healthy return for money. But most farmers

were forced to walk away from a significant portion. The drought could cost cotton farmers and related industries in Texas $3.2 billion in 2022.

This drought has been one of the hardest the farmers had. Usually, crop insurance which acts like car insurance provides some relief to farmers impacted by natural disasters like drought or a loss of revenue due to a decline in price. But the insurance is costly a recent study found climate change had triggered and increase in crop insurance payouts to the tune of $27 billion between 1991 and 2017.

Rising input costs are impacting farmers tremendously this past year. Chemical prices have surged two hundred to three hundred percent. While fertilizer cost more than doubled in price. It is not just a lack of rainwater in rising costs that are hurting cotton farmers – the groundwater resources – a major source of water for the state of Texas is being depleted.

Declining water levels have forced cotton farmers to convert much of their irrigated fields back to dry land in 2022.

And it is not only the toughest year for the cotton industry but also for the cotton ginners.

China is the world’s largest cotton producer and a major consumer of cotton. Despite drought – which has hit the region over the summer – has hit severely the Yangtze River region cotton production – total cotton production this year is likely to rise by 5.8% year on year, according to an industry report.

Being home to the biggest population in the world makes China the largest producer, consumer, and importer of cotton. There are an estimated 300

million people involved in producing cotton in China.

China’s nationwide cotton production is expected to reach 6.138 million tons in 2022. According to the China Cotton Market Monitoring System report, around 5.634 million tons is expected to be produced in the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region.

The report also showed that, China’s Gansu province and Xinjiang are set to see cotton production surge by 22.8% and 7.2% year-on-year, respectively.

The global cotton industry have other headwinds too – as fashion consumers are increasingly shift towards apparel made from manmade fiber (MMF) – it is falling in demand.

Although, reports showed that cotton production in the southern Yangtze River Basin is likely to deteriorate by 8.6% year-on-year to 152,000 tons

due to the acute drought, coupled with a higher level of pest infestation.

In northern China’s Yellow River Basin is also expected to record a 7.1% year on year drop to 308,000 tons following sporadic droughts and heavy rain that hit cotton production growth.

In India, unseasonal rains this year have damaged the outlook of higher cotton production in north India –particularly in Punjab and Haryana regions. Market reports recommend that North Indian cotton’s quality has also shrank due to prolonged monsoon. Shorter staple fiber of cotton from this region may not be good for 30 counts or finer yarn, thus affecting its market value.

India is often referred to as the birthplace of cotton, and the industry plays a significant role in the economy of the country.

Meanwhile, Pakistan floods hit 40% of its cotton crop for the 2022/2023 season for the world’s fifth biggest cotton producer. New reports have showed that the devastating floods in Pakistan have affected some 40% of the country’s annual cotton crop.

Meanwhile, local ginners located in flood-affected areas are shutdown, and other ginners are running factories with partial capacity. Better Cotton says its licensing for the 2022-23 season is now complete.

Envoy Textiles to invest $11mn in denim yarn unit

Sayed Abdullah

Envoy Textiles Ltd. (ETL) to initiate a second denim yarn spinning unit at the factory's manufacturing

plant in Mymensingh's Bhaluka. Envoy Textiles Limited will invest €10.8 million or $11.2 million to commence this state-of-the-art denim yarn spinning project.

The new denim yarn spinning unit will be installed with automated and more energy-efficient machinery – where the annual yarn production capacity will be 3,600 tons production to primarily use for in-house manufacturing of denim fabrics.

Tanvir Ahmed, Managing Director, Envoy Group said to Textile Today, “The new denim yarn

spinning unit will be equipped with most up-to-date spinning gear – which will increase denim yarn and all types of innovative blended yarn production capacity. And decreasing dependence on imported yarn and increasing our industry's effectiveness, sustainability, and energy proficiency.”

The funding will be provided by Asian Development Bank (ADB) support, finance the acquisition and installation of energy-efficient spinning machinery and other apparatus to grow sustainable textile production at ETL.

Bangladesh to import less cotton this year

Sayed Abdullah

According to the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) Bangladesh’s cotton import to drop to 8 million bales in the marketing year 2022-23 which began in August. This is in line with the country’s plan to increase cotton production five folds by 2030.

Given the recent unstable global scenario, USDA said, international raw cotton prices have gone up in line with the global economic slowdown. As a result, the world’s second-biggest cotton exporting country might see a drop of 11% to 8.3 million bales in the marketing year 2022-23. While Bangladesh imported 8.52 million bales in the 2021-22 marketing year, said USDA. While it said Bangladesh’s local raw cotton consumption was valued at 8.8 million bales.

According to the USDA’s data, till October 2022, Bangladesh imported 7.1 million bales raw cotton, which is downed by 5% year-on-year compared to October 2021.

The report highlighted that Bangladesh’s yarn and fabric

consumption would be 1.8 million tons and 6 billion meters, around 10% and 3.5% higher correspondingly from that in the 2021-22 marketing year.

While, Bangladesh cotton imports witnessed a drop due to the Covid-19 pandemic in marketing year 2019-20 – otherwise the country has been showing a stable surge in cotton imports since marketing year 2014-15.

As per Cotton Development Board (CDB), Bangladesh produces less than 0.2 million cotton bales (1 bale equals roughly 480 pounds) a year against the annual demand for 8.5 million bales, according to official statistics.

CDB Additional Director Dr Md Fakhre Alam Ibne Tabib said to media, “CDB set the target to enhance the domestic cotton production to 1 million bales using newly invented high yielding and hybrid varieties and using the vast low fertile barren lands in the country’s southeastern hill region alongside some plain districts.” Bangladesh’s

Figure: ETL’s Founder Kutubuddin Ahmed (Second from right) and Tanvir Ahmed (Right), Managing Director – with ADB officials. Courtesy: Collected

Regenerative agriculture based U.S. Cotton takes sustainable fashion to next level

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Story

Globally the demand for sustainably made cotton garments have been on the rise. As the leading farm level, science-based initiative that is setting a new standard in more sustainably grown cotton – U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol found that leading global brands and retailers have witnessed a 61 percent increase in sustainable products demand among the consumers.

The level of U.S. cotton growers’ sustainability is unparalleled. As the global apparel consumers are increasingly pushing global brands and retailers to provide transparency and evidence that sustainable practices are being implemented –sustainable cotton growing in the USA has long been a focus.

Despite this much progress, U.S. cotton farmers appreciate that they must always advance in order to protect and preserve the earth— to ultimately aid create more sustainable clothing. This is where regenerative agriculture comes in. As opposite to merely having a neutral impact on the environment, it goes a step more and aims for net positives with practices that better the land. U.S. cotton growers’ efforts towards incessant improvement are central to the Trust Protocol and the U.S. cotton industry taking sustainability to the next level.

Practices such as conservation tillage and growing cover crops have aided soil health and improved soil carbon levels. Though U.S. cotton cultivators have been applying these techniques for decades, these

practices have lately been grouped into a manner of farming called regenerative agriculture.

The philosophies of a regenerative agriculture system are founded in Indigenous ways of land management and are adaptive to local physical conditions and culture. These principles include:

• Minimizing soil disturbance

• Maintaining living roots in soil

• Continuously covering bare soil

• Maximizing diversity with emphasis on crops, soil microbes and pollinators

• Integrating livestock where it is feasible

Gradually, regenerative practices can upsurge productivity and naturally decrease the need for external inputs required for plants. Common regenerative practices as reported in the Trust Protocol include cover cropping, no or low tilling, biodiversity, rotational farming, precision agriculture, integrated pest management and intentional use of inputs that are landscape specific.

Dividing the data

The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is the only program measuring the impact and outcomes of these sustainable growing practices.

Regenerative agriculture is not a one-size-fits-all manner of farming. Instead, it looks at a combination of practices that support resilience, as well as building and nourishing our ecosystem. 2021/22 data from U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol growers shows:

• More than 55 percent of Trust Protocol acres were planted with cover crops, which encourage food security and reduce atmospheric carbon.

• Continuous reduced or no-till production increases the amount of soil organic matter near the soil surface, and in 2021/22, more than half of reported acres practiced no-till and 30 percent practiced reduced tillage.

• 70 percent of Trust Protocol reported acreage practiced crop rotation in 2021/22.

• 70% of Trust Protocol reported acreage practiced integrated pest management (IPM), which is a science-based approach that strategizes tools and techniques to identify and manage pests.

There is no ultimate line when it comes to sustainable practices or regenerative agriculture. Individuals and organizations continue to grow new technologies, processes and research that aid growers in further implementing new and innovative sustainable practices. Now more than ever, people care about the environment and how their clothes are made. And, while the distance from U.S. cotton fields to the runways of global fashion brands and consumer closets may seem far, the focus on regenerative agriculture has never been more impactful.

Field Tests Confirm High Performance of New Accotex Aprons

The latest Accotex apron NO-79201 is made from new compounds that deliver longer life and better performance. Flexible enough to work with all fiber types across ring and compact-spinning machines, field trials show better resistance throughout a 12-month spinning cycle. The NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom aprons for all kinds of applications.

Superior friction behavior

The new Accotex NO-79201 was tested for 12 months at a customer in the USA, alongside the already existing NO-78210GX, the NO-78210G and a competitor’s apron (Fig. 2). The friction value of the different aprons was measured over the whole apron life in regular frequencies. Each column reflects the individual friction value of the inner layer evaluated on representative apron samples from the field test at 3, 6, 9 and 12 months. After 12 months running, the inner layer friction of the new NO-79201 is nearly unchanged, confirming the smooth and even running over the whole service life of the apron. This superior friction behavior has also been reported from other Accotex customers across the world, processing different fiber types, blends and yarn counts. Besides, these trial customers have noticed far fewer broken bottom aprons than they would normally expect.

The Accotex NO-79201 (Fig. 1) is a new generation of aprons for ring and compactspinning machines. It is made of two aligned rubber compounds which deliver a high abrasion and crack resistant spinning apron. The mechanical robustness of the rubber compounds allows effective use on all ring and compact-spinning machines, working with all fiber types and within the whole spectrum of yarn counts. The excellent friction properties of the compound contribute to a smooth and even running over the whole service life of the apron, especially at the start-up of machines.

Different versions for flexible use

The Accotex apron NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom aprons for all kinds of applications. It comes as closed apron, skived bottom apron or skived and preglued bottom apron. The NO-79201 can be supplied with a plain inside or a specially configured inner layer pattern, known as a knurled version (Fig 3). The main benefit of the knurled apron is to provide less contact area to the nose bar, which enables lower torque, and thus less stress on the bottom roller bearings. This also allows the inside structured apron to run clean on so-called “dirty” fibers and to work efficiently in demanding environmental conditions in terms of fiber cleanliness. The knurled apron is available with diameters of 72.5, 76.3 and 79.0 mm.

Accotex Story

Figure 1: Accotex NO-79201 is available in a wide range of dimensions as top and bottom apron for all kinds of applications.

Figure 3: Accotex NO-79201 can also be supplied with a knurled inner layer, for increased service life.

Figure 2: The new apron NO-79201 shows nearly unchanged inner layer friction, confirming unmatched performance over time.

Africa’s cotton clothing value chain could be a future game changer

Textile Today Report

Cotton remains an important export crop for SubSaharan Africa, and currently accounts for 16% of global exports. The Sub-Saharan African cotton exports are expected to continue increasing at around 1.7% p.a. (per annum) in the coming decade, with the region’s market share snowballing by more than 1% point to nearly 18% compared to the base period, with South and Southeast Asia the major export destinations.

According to the International Trade Centre recent report, by 2026, Africa’s cotton has the prospect to export €5.8 billion of cotton garments to both international and intra-African markets.

Benin, Mali, Burkina Faso, and Ivory Coast are the highest cotton-producing countries in Africa and account for about 50% of the region's produce. Major importers of African cotton are Bangladesh, Vietnam, China, and Malaysia.

Western Africa rules the production in the region

Western Africa (WA) comprises twelve cottonproducing countries, namely Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, and Togo. The Foreign Agricultural Service of the USDA reported that of the twelve nations, Mali and Burkina Faso are the largest producers and are forecast to have record crops amid expanding areas. WA accounts for more than three-fourths of Africa’s cotton exports.

In Western Africa, initiatives are being taken to increase organic cotton production that offers a safer and more profitable alternative, with up to two to three times more profit and safe, biological forms of pest control and soil fertilization. This is expected

to increase the demand for Western African cotton in the forecast period.

Almost all of the West African cotton is exported, as mills are moderately scarce within the region, indicating the pivotal role that foreign demand plays for West African producers.

Although, Africa is a vital producer and exporter of raw cotton and is involved in the final assembly of certain textiles. However, like West African countries, the continent has relatively few spinning mills and limited yarn and fabric production, leading to a lack of vertical value chain integration.

Thus, the continent exports 90% of its raw cotton to Asia and is a net importer of cotton fabrics and yarn. African cotton apparel manufacturers import a mere 7% of cotton yarn and 6% of cotton fabric from elsewhere on the continent.

Experts say that if the continent take transitional steps in the value chain like processing of cotton into yarn and fabric – it will create and increase export potential in cotton garments. This will present strategic investment prospects with a view of diversifying production locations and near-shoring close to major markets, e.g. the EU, the USA to cut the risk of supply-chain disruptions. Intra-regional trade prospect

International Trade Centre report states there is a major intra-regional export prospect to be untapped. African apparel makers tend to focus on their domestic markets or manufacture apparel for brands outside the continent.

Many fail to comprehend opportunities for intraregional trade due to inadequate awareness of, and participation in, market relation activities such as trade fairs. There is also tiny awareness of intra-African trade accords, such as the African Continental Free Trade Area, and their possible advantages.

Nevertheless, the textile and apparel industry is increasing in some other countries, especially Ethiopia, where attempts are being made to boost the textile processing capacities across the region. The growth has been driven by favorable economic conditions, resulting in significant FDI in the sector. In the long run, this could imply an increase in spinning mill use and positively move the net export status of Sub-Saharan Africa.

Abdul Khaleque- a Bangladeshi sheep wool blanket craftsman

Shafiun Nahar Elma

In winter the blankets made from sheep wool which was once famous and in high demand in Bangladesh and also abroad were on the border of extinction as the people involved in making handmade blankets were switching off to other professions.

But why? In 1950, some families migrated to the Nayagola area of Chapainawabganj from the Murshidabad district of West Bengal of India. They started to earn their livelihood by raising sheep and by selling blankets made from their sheep wool. The blankets got extensive popularity for the next 3 to 4 decades because of their authentic quality, warmness, fast color, durability, and softness.

go to different markets and different places in the country.

He has to visit various districts two to three times a year, especially summer season, to collect wool from sheep. Those collected wool are then washed and cleaned.

Wool yarn is made through the wooden Charka (hand-operated reeling machines) and a blanket is weaved in a handloom. Can’t do much now due to age.

They further mentioned, it takes 8 to 12 days to texture a blanket but the market price of a blanket is not sufficient to make a profit on their labor and materials. Each blanket is sold at only tk 700 to 800 and occasionally less. As a result, it is now impossible for them to sustain their livelihood by making the blanket at the present market rate. so they left this.

However, some people of the village are wanted to cling to their ancestral occupation and are engaged in making blankets from sheep wool.

Nowadays these blankets have

Abdul Khaleque is one of the craftsmen who has been making blankets from sheep’s wool for years. He is a resident of Mominpara of Nayagola area, ChapaiNawabganj District. He learned the process of making blankets from sheep’s wool from his father as a teenager.

Apart from sheep wool blankets, he also manufactures various other products including mufflers, prayer mats, wall mats, etc. from fleece. At one point he traveled around and sold these handmade blankets himself. These hand-made blankets

Figure 2: Some people of the village are wanted to cling to their ancestral occupation and are engaged in making blankets from sheep wool.

In a report, Abdul Khaleque appealed to the government for help and said, Earlier he has sold these blankets in many parts of Bangladesh and people come from different shops to buy blankets from him but he cannot fulfill this demand alone.

He lamented that the present generation does not want to learn the art of weaving and fears that the art will disappear after his death. He wants to teach the next generation the process of weaving handmade blankets. By acquiring technical skills in this fleece weaving, many families will be able to find their source of income.

Those who were involved in making this handmade sheep wool blanket are no longer interested because they feel that the demand for this product has decreased in the ever-changing market daily. Blanket makers were not coping with modern fabric makers and market competition.

Figure 3: The native industry may be survived if the government, nongovernment organization, and welfare come forward to train the local craftsmen and gives weaver their capital for the business.

dropped in local markets, but their demand is still seen at some classy markets in Dhaka and Chattogram.

BSCIC (Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation) expressed its concern to save this traditional process from extinction.

The native industry may be survived if the government, nongovernment organization, and welfare come forward to train the local craftsmen and gives weaver their capital for the business. The handmade wool blanket has risen as a cottage industry in Bangladesh and with the help of the government to give proper facilities to the artisan of this craft, Bangladesh can export this authentic product worldwide. And it should be saved by the effort of social organization and market demand.

Figure 1: Apart from sheep wool blankets, he also manufactures various other products including mufflers, prayer mats, wall mats, etc. from fleece.

How does power quality impact textile manufacturing costs?

Electricity is necessary to run modern technology, and not just as a basic supply. The amount, especially for resource-heavy operations, can generally impact performance. It means that hardware or equipment can influence the processes they are being used to complete. Therefore, the power supply and its reliability in manufacturing directly correlate with product quality.

and machining. They all require varying degrees of power to complete, which must be sustained. Every movement a machine makes while undergoing these processes alters the item, as the material is handled with precision. Not all forms are used in textile manufacturing, but milling, threading, gassing, spinning and even tufting machines all play an integral role.

Power that goes out in the middle of a process halts the entire operation. A standard task will then take longer to complete even if the power comes back on within a short period, directly affecting the weave, casting or forming quality of the item. That lowers costs by extending the assembly phase. The stopping and restarting will change how the goods are developed and may even lead to defects or failures, which increases waste, damaged materials and time spent.

General machining and textile manufacturing are not the same, and neither is the equipment used. However, they require sufficient power to continue operating at optimal performance levels. Unavailable or inefficient energy causes machines to work poorly, and in some cases, they can shut down completely due to low or fluctuating voltages.

Power quality affects manufacturing costs

That issue extends to all forms of manufacturing that utilize high-technology machines, including textile manufacturing. Most equipment relies on electronic controllers, such as control cards or mainboards, driver-controlled motors, and powered pulleys and systems. Poor or inefficient power can damage machinery, so while it might have a definitive shortterm impact on product quality, long-term effects should also be explored.

Power quality impacts textile manufacturing

Imagine a manual process that requires a worker’s constant focus, energy and attention. If and when they are distracted, the task at hand will suffer. Power delivery and efficiency are slightly different in mechanics, but it’s similar in how it impacts the quality of work.

There are four major manufacturing processes: shearing and forming, joining, casting and molding,

The effects of poor or inefficient power are twofold. The products suffer, which means customer satisfaction and brand loyalty can decrease. At the same time, waste may increase due to damaged or ineffective products that can’t be sold.

The next layer is that the equipment or hardware used to develop the garments deteriorates much faster. Inefficient power negatively impacts their electrical components. The machines could degrade quickly or fail more often, requiring more maintenance and attention. The costs are exponential because equipment may need to be replaced, parts must be ordered, and the manpower necessary to keep them operational and serviced will increase.

The loss of materials or increase in waste is another major consideration. Fabric used to make garments accounts for about 60%-70% of the total cost. A malfunctioning machine not getting enough power

Emily Newton, Editor In Chief, Revolutionized

Figure: General machining and textile manufacturing are not the same, and neither is the equipment used. Cortesy: Collected

could damage fabric during manufacturing, creating excess waste. The more devices and hardware malfunction, misfire, fail or operate outside of optimal levels, the more materials are ruined, ballooning costs for yet another facet of textile manufacturing.

Improving the power source

It’s easy for manufacturers to fall into the trap of thinking there’s only one valid source of power — the energy grid. However, it’s not the only option. In fact, building a reliable backup source into regular operations is always recommended, even in regions where power and electricity are fairly reliable.

The most obvious choice is to install and maintain backup generators, which can supply electricity to mission-critical equipment during a failure. They aren’t necessarily the focus for keeping production going but

instead provide a good way to pause work without sacrificing quality. Equipment can be shut down promptly and effectively rather than immediately severing the power connection in the middle of a task.

There are many benefits to buying used generators and equipment, which help offset some of the initial costs of acquiring new gear. The prices are lower, there are shorter lead times and there’s a lot less paperwork. Plus, when you obtain items from trusted distributors, there’s no reason to worry about reliability.

Another solution to focus on is renewable energy, including solar and wind. Textile manufacturing equipment often has a heavy power load, so the aim shouldn’t be to run the entire operation on green sources. However, it can provide a backup solution when there’s a power outage and will certainly help lower

costs, especially if you’re using renewables to generate electricity.

Understanding power quality

It is possible to measure power quality coming into an electricity grid and being supplied to operational equipment. However, supply and circuit issues do occur, and sometimes there’s no avoiding them. The best contingency is to have a backup power source, whether from traditional or electric generators or renewable sources.

The power supply impacts textile manufacturing quality, as it does in most forms of modern manufacturing. It’s imperative to secure a reliable option to improve product standards and reduce associated operational costs.

RGE to invest $2 bn for new paperboard plant

NA Tania

Anderson Tanoto, Managing Director of Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) set a big target to fulfill for his Singapore-based company that has major interests in pulp, paper, palm oil and energy.

For this wanted to double their assets before the end of this decade. He said, “We must continue to expand to meet consumer demand.”

According to him, by 2030 the asset base of the group will increase by more than $30 billion to top $60 billion.

RGE’s pulp and paper arm Asia Pacific Resources International Holdings (April) is about to take a big

step towards achieving Tanoto’s ambitious goal. Nowadays, the company is investing 33.4 trillion rupiah ($2.2 billion) into a new paperboard facility located at its integrated production base in Sumatra. This new facility is one of the largest investments that April has made since its founding in 1993 and is scheduled to start operating next year in June, and will be located within the same complex where April already has a large pulp and paper-making operation, and is designed to have an annual production capacity of 1.2 million tons of boxboard, the material used in a variety of paper-based packaging and boxes.

On the other hand, Tanoto sees a big opportunity to create a product that will meet the rising global demand for recyclable packaging to replace that made from plastic.

“I believe the transition away from plastic waste packaging will happen sooner than later, and the only way we can make it happen sooner than later is to make our packaging scalable, big, good quality and low cost,” Tanoto aims to promote growth for RGE that’s not just rapid, but puts a top priority on sustainability.

Figure: RGE’s pulp and paper arm Asia Pacific Resources International Holdings (April) is about to take a big step towards achieving Tanoto’s ambitious goal. Courtesy:Collected.

Emily Newton Editor In Chief, Revolutionized

Author:

Dhaka wants US to withdraw duty on RMG made of US cotton

Arif Uz-Zaman

The 6th meeting of Trade and Investment Cooperation Forum Agreement (TICFA) Council will be held in Washington on December 6. According to the sources of Ministry of Commerce, in the meeting Bangladesh is going to officially request US for dutyfree access to its market of Bangladeshi clothing produced from US cotton

Dhaka also plans to urge Washington to reduce the tariff rate on the import of Bangladeshi-made garments as a whole.

According to sources, the United States is interested in increasing cotton exports to Bangladesh, which is

why Washington has kept the issue of withdrawing Bangladesh's imposed cotton fumigation in its agenda for the upcoming TICFA meeting.

In this context, Bangladesh also wants to take the opportunity. It has decided to present a strong proposal to provide duty-free export facility to the US market for RMG products manufactured in Bangladesh using cotton imported from the United States.

A Bangladesh delegation led by Commerce Ministry Senior Secretary Tapan Kanti Ghosh will attend the 6th meeting of TICFA where Bangladesh is planning to submit a proposal to receive financing from the US International Development Finance Corporation (DFC).

Bangladesh cannot access $60 billion in US Development Finance Corporation (DFC) funding for private sector energy, healthcare, critical infrastructure and technology projects after the suspension of GSP (Generalized System of Preferences) benefits in the US market since June 2013. Its investments adhere to high standards and respect the environment, human rights and workers' rights.

During the meeting, Bangladesh will request the US Food and Drug Administration to facilitate the registration process for Bangladeshi drug products and for US technical assistance in building quality certification infrastructure.

On the other hand, the U.S. side will discuss the provisions of the SEED Act to reduce import duties on tree nuts (walnuts, almonds) in Bangladesh.

ATET’s Annual General Meeting held

The Association of Textile Engineers and Technologists (ATET) organized their Annual General Meeting at a convention hall in Uttara, Dhaka on 02 December.

The program was presided over by Md. Aminul Islam, President, ATET. The program was jointly conducted by S. M Sohel Rana, General Secretary, ATET and Mahasinuzzaman Shishir, Organizing Secretary (ATET).

In addition to presenting the annual income and expenditure account, the proposal of the new structure of the constitution and the names of three new election commissioners were proposed in the annual general meeting.

The esteemed advisory council and all life members of ATET were also present on the occasion.

The Association of Textile Engineers and Technologists (ATET) organized its Annual General Meeting at a convention hall in Uttara, Dhaka.

Figure: Bangladesh is going to officially request US for duty-free access to its market of Bangladeshi clothing produced from US cotton in the 6th meeting of TICFA. Courtesy: Collected

Figure:

ORBIT Ring-Traveler System

The reference to spin faster and better

The key to success of a ring spinning mill lies in its ability to produce flawless quality with the highest possible production speed. Selecting the best ringtraveler system is crucial here. ORBIT allows exceptional speeds above 23 000 rpm without compromising quality.

When the spindle speed is increased, the frictional power between the ring and the traveler, and thus the heat generation, increases exponentially. When speeds are too high, C-shaped travelers are therefore thermally damaged and fail.

Figure 2: Recent tests conducted at spinning mills across the world confirm that even at higher speeds, the ORBIT shows better results in yarn quality than traditional systems.

Zero compromise on quality

Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for shortstaple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end-spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 17 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 900, about 18% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN.

Figure 1: With its large yarn passage (1) and contact area (2), the design of the ORBIT ring-traveler system allows exceptional speeds above 23 000 rpm without compromising quality.

Increase in speed and production

The ORBIT features a large contact surface between the ring and the traveler (Fig. 1), which is four to five times bigger than that of a T-flange ring. This drastically reduces the pressure and thus the heat generation. It also provides more stable running conditions and allows the traveler weight to be reduced, so speeds above 23 000 rpm can be reached.

The size of the yarn passage also plays an important role (Fig 1), especially when processing man-made fibers which are prone to heat damages. The ORBIT ringtraveler system benefits from a large yarn passage which minimizes thermal damages for better yarn quality.

The large contact area of ORBIT between the ring and traveler contributes to the gentle handling of fibers. The stable running conditions coupled with the reduced surface pressure and the optimal heat conduction result in low yarn breakage rates.

Recent tests (Fig. 2) conducted at spinning mills across the world confirm that even at higher speeds, the ORBIT shows better results in yarn quality than traditional systems. Often imitated but never duplicated, the ORBIT ring-traveler system (Fig. 3) is the reference for spinning at the highest speed. With a wide scope of applications for all kinds of fibers, with yarn counts between Ne 20 and Ne 80, the ORBIT ring-traveler system is the solution to reach higher production and, in some cases, even better quality.

Figure 3: ORBIT allow speeds above 23 000 rpm without ever compromising on quality.

The world’s leading supplier of rings and travelers for ring spinning systems, is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group. Bräcker, based in Pfäffikon ZH (Switzerland), creates customer value through system expertise, innovative solutions, after sales excellence and global presence. The company manufactures its main products –rings and travelers for ring spinning machines – in Pfäffikon and Wintzenheim (France). In addition, Bräcker offers grinding machines used for maintenance of cots.

Rieter Sotry

Bangladesh to touch the milestone of 200 USGBC Green factories

The United States Green Building Council (USGBC) has recognized two more readymade garment (RMG) factories of Bangladesh as green – LEED Certified, raising the total number of environmentfriendly establishments in the apparel sector to 183. Only 20 more companies need to get the certificate to make a double century in the construction of environmentally friendly factories in Bangladesh.

It may not take long as because more than five hundred ecofriendly factories are under construction in the pipeline, according to BGMEA.

This year, 27 organizations in the garment and textile sector have received the certificate of environment-friendly factories. The latest two factories are Victoria Intimates Limited in Dhaka and Dresden Textiles Limited in Mymensingh. Both institutes have obtained Lead Gold certification.

LEED Green Garment Factories of Bangladesh

for 'Lead Platinum', 60-79 points for 'Lead Gold', 50-59 points for 'Lead Silver' and 40-49 points for 'Lead Certified'.

The journey of the eco-friendly factory in Bangladesh started in 2012 by the hands of clothing industry entrepreneur Sazzadur Rahman Mridha in Pabna’s Ishwardi EPZ. Following the path shown by him, Bangladesh is on the path of double century in building environment-friendly factories in the country.

Currently, Bangladesh has the highest number of eco-friendly

To be certified by the US Green Building Council (USGBC), one of the world's greenest building certification bodies established in 1993, a project must meet the highest standards from construction to manufacturing under the supervision of the USGBC.

There are a total of 110 points for fulfilling the 9 conditions for the LEAD certificate. Among these, more than 80 points are required

clothing and textile mills than any other country in the world.

According to BGMEA data, out of 180 garment and textile factories in Bangladesh, 60 have got Lead Platinum, 109 Gold, 10 Silver and 4 certified certificates.

According to entrepreneurs, ecofriendly facilities typically cost 5 to 20 percent more than conventional ones, but the benefits are longterm. Overall, green factories can reduce use of electricity by 24 to 50 percent, water consumption by 40 percent, and carbon emissions by 33 to 39 percent.

Figure: Bangladesh has 180 USGBC LEED Certified green RMG factories.

Product diversification aiding Experience Group to stay afloat

Sayed Abdullah

Globally clothing is a necessity and product diversification aiding Experience Group to stay afloat against global rough times, says Usama Maqsood, Director, Experience Group. He shared this at the recently concluded Dhaka Apparel Expo 2022. Where, Experience Group team led by Usama Maqsood shared their thoughts with Textile Today.

“We are making sure that our factories are running and that we can afford to pay salaries and that’s the plan. We will see will manage the crisis as it comes. We do not know what the future is right now but we are staying optimistic and we have to stay positive. Overall, we have to hope for the best – because clothing is a necessity and hopefully when the world market recovers – we will also benefit from that,” Usama Maqsood shared concerning the global fashionwear downtrend.

Usama Maqsood shared that they produce all the apparel product categories for men, women and kids – and they showcased a wide variety of apparel products at the expo.

“A vast audience did not know that we are doing ladies’ dresses with viscose, or all-over print items, workwear, and underwear. So, the fact that we were able to represent all these products and the

number of products. So, there was significant interest in that – it is really good to have a multi-product capability. Because that way we can cater to any specific product type and no matter the market situation. We can find something to do. So, that is the ultimate edge of Experience Group.”

“We have a vertical expansion – with this advantage – we are providing our customers with A-Z solutions. As for product ranges, we have all types of varieties like cotton, cotton blend, cotton spandex and viscose to increase diversification.”

Regarding the Expo’s outreach, Usama Maqsood said, “Overall we are satisfied and we had an opportunity to display all our variety of products. We have made a lot of connections. Met a lot of people, so these are what these events are important for building connections, building relationships. That’s the most important thing and we’re happy to be here and happy to represent our company and we have also exhibited at the denim expo.”

Nayeem, Head of Merchandising, Experience Group stated that Experience Group has a diversified range of apparel products –starting from heavy outerwear both denim and non-denim,

lingerie, fashionwear, workwear, etc. Recently, we have started making down jackets. Most importantly, Experience Group manufacture all the apparel product category for men, women and kids.

Manufacturing and managing operations of such a wide range of apparel internally and externally and the supply chain is a huge task – and Experience Group is managing this mammoth duty in a well-synchronized way.

Regarding that, Nayeem said, “As you mentioned, doing this kind of wide-range of product or multiproduction is challenging like in all aspects – right from marketing, procurement, manufacturing and merchandizing – at Experience we are doing it for many years now. So, we have a well-trained and capable staff both in marketing, merchandising and then in the production team. Thus, our production team can make different types of apparel items within the same line.”

“I just want to say I am very happy with my team – the way we have exhibited. I am confident that this will be fruitful for us and also I want to thank Textile Today for keeping the textile and garment industry relevant, Usama Maqsood concluded.

Apna Organics showcases innovative and sustainable solutions at Denim Expo

Staff Correspondent

Apna Organics Pvt. Ltd. once again showcased its value with innovative, sustainable and valuedriven solutions at a cost-effective price for the textile industry at the recently concluded Denim Expo 2022.

Shivam Saraf, Director, Apna Organics Pvt. Ltd. shared that, “This time around we have mainly showcased Apna Organics sustainable solutions in the expo.”

“For instance, we have brought e-Flow technology based on nanobubbles – technology solution – which provides highly efficient and consistent gas transfer across a broad range of water treatment processes. The idea behind this is to remove the usage of water completely. The most incredible thing is that we have done some

dyeing processes without the need for stone and temperature. I think this innovative technology will be the future – which the textile industry has been looking for the last few years. And this is the biggest challenge we have overcome in the last two years. And finally, Apna Organics is able to showcase this innovative technology for our Bangladeshi customers.”

Apna Organics customers have shown remarkable responses to these sustainable innovative solutions – they have been looking for this kind of solution for a long. Recently, the cost rise of raw materials has put a huge burden on textile makers – whereas Apna Organics customers is giving topnotch solutions at a cost-effective

price. Providing top-quality products at less cost will certainly benefit Bangladesh’s textile industry in the long run.

Shivam Saraf said, “In the last 2 years, the cost has gone up and despite this, we are providing quality solutions at less cost. And we are getting very good response from the industry people.”

Apna Organics Pvt Ltd holds a unique identity in the textile and apparel industry as a leading solution provider for the textile industry with its theme ‘A legacy of quality.’

Bangladesh’s chemical supplying market is very competitive and Apna Organics – defying all odds – are making great strides in the market.

Figure: Amzad Hossain Monir (3rd from right), Head of Business Development, Textile Today with Apna Organics Pvt. Ltd. team in the Denim Expo 2022. .

CHT Group launches LAB102 in Bangladesh

CHT Group launched its new brand ‘LAB102 — the blue veins of CHT’ for jeans and garments in Bangladesh on 15 November at its Bangladesh representative, RH Corporation’s premises in Dhaka.

LAB102—the blue veins of CHT – under this brand name and slogan, the group of companies would like to offer its worldwide denim customers sustainable chemical solutions and technologies in the future.

Thomas Aplas, Textile Auxiliary Solutions, Head of Jeans & Garment, CHT Group said in the event, “LAB102 stands for always moving forward. And CHT has expert teams around the globe to produce same quality chemical products globally.”

“CHT’s Garment Capsule Branding does the same perceptible/visible level as some important competitors which are fully/only focused on garment. Giving customers a very strongly brandoriented comfort. The brands act in their own look and feel world - again it has to do with perception, very important. E.g. as a chemical manufacturer it is still difficult to be accepted by fashion brands.”

“What we want to achieve with it, our fashion part more in the foreground to address the brands more. Also here we want to be visible as a bridge between fashion and chemistry. Our existing customers should be ‘reassured’, CHT is growing strongly and not only in textiles, but in the other areas of garment too,” Thomas Aplas added.

“Through LAB102 – it promises optimization of treatments/reduction of chemicals. Also, new technologies output can be improved by smart chemicals. Moreover, LAB102’s chemical auxiliaries support technology and it is innovative.”

Özgür Cagrici, Technical Manager Garment, Textile Auxiliary Solutions, CHT Group said, “CHT provides

best possible chemistry for the customers.” “LAB102’s area of application are nebulization, laser, LLT and ozone.”

Özgür Cagrici added, “CHT organIQ is the smart way of ecological jeans finishing – Giving jeans the fashionable used look without polluting the environment. The CHT Group stands for sustainable chemical solutions, innovations for future-oriented processes and smart products.”

Eng. A.S.M Hafizur Rahman Nixon, Executive Director, RH Corporation moderated the event. Where CHT’s local customers i.e., textile factories representatives were present – along with leaders of the Bangladesh textile industry.

LAB102 is not only chemistry, but also technology is the focus for ensuring sustainability. Fogging, laser and ozone techniques are innovations that are currently paving the way for new ways of treating jeans and garments and are at the highest ecological level. Their use can lead to extreme savings in water and energy. The use of chemicals can also be reduced if processes are optimized and adapted to the new requirements. To this end, the "Jeans & Garment" team of the CHT Group works together with the leading machine manufacturers worldwide on new developments.

Earlier, CHT globally launched LAB102 denim brand at the trade fair Kingpins Show in Amsterdam.

CHT Group, a medium-sized global player for specialty chemicals and active worldwide in development, production and sales. CHT Germany GmbH in Tübingen is the headquarters of the group of companies, which focuses on sustainable chemical products and process solutions.

Staff Correspondent

Huntsman strengthens its technical support through ‘ECO SIP’ initiative

Rahbar Hossain

With their top-notch product solutions, Huntsman's best-inclass technical support recently included ECO Sustainability Improvement Program (SIP) initiative for their customers.

ECO SIP redefines what’s possible in sustainability today with product and process innovations. These solutions can be actioned immediately and without any additional capital investment.

Based on Huntsman Textile Effects’ long-standing Productivity Improvement Program (PIP), the ECO Sustainability Improvement Program (SIP) initiatives help mills and brands leverage their existing plant, equipment and personnel to:

• Reduce operating costs by slashing water and energy usage

• Optimise processes to improve productivity with lower cost

• Boost efficiency with RightFirst-Time (RFT) production and faster processing

• Develop differentiated new products that enhance competitiveness

• Reduce chemical usage and minimise replicative chemical purchases

• Safeguard employee safety and improve employee satisfaction

• Minimise greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions

• Stay ahead of regulatory and

legislative developments

Their technical experts are wellequipped to solve complex processing issues with highly innovative, sustainable solutions. They are also able to adapt new technology and applications knowhow for new markets.

Actual Example 1

A China-based commission dyeing mill increased output by 23% and reduced costs by 24% after PIP/SIP. This was achieved with no additional Capex and even incorporated a 10% increase in the recipe cost due to the adoption of more advanced chemistries for improved product quality and production flow. Key improvements included:

• 8% increase in RFT production

• 50% faster shade matching

• 20% reduction in processing time and energy

Actual Example 2

Two sportswear mills supplying different global brands turned to Huntsman Textile Effects PIP/ SIP to meet higher sustainability requirements and tighter lead times.

• The first mill reduced processing time by 30% and water consumption by 20%, with a reduction in steam consumption of 20% to save energy.

• The second customer also

slashed processing time by 28% and steam consumption by 20%, and also reduced water consumption by a whopping 40%.

• Both were able to enhance their competitiveness with a faster response to customers and lower production costs.

“The new initiative Eco SIP (Sustainability Improvement Plan) can help companies to see more clearly how an industry is progressing with their sustainability improvement plan,” said Nitin Soni, the Commercial Director of Huntsman South Asia.

Bangladesh is our primary market of emphasis, and we are now expanding our presence there with new technologies that are intended to support a growth platform for our customers, according to Nitin Soni.

"Our creative end-to-end solutions come with high sustainability credentials, allowing our customers to make clothes while preserving an efficient and sustainable production process," says Showkat Sarkar, the Country Manager of Huntsman Bangladesh.

Huntsman always maintains long-standing relationships with their customers and their teams provide extensive pre-and postsales technical service support that includes superior foundational and strategic support for the customers.

Nitin Soni, Commercial Director of Huntsman South Asia.

Swiss Colours sees Bangladesh to remain hotspot for textile business

Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. celebrated its 26th anniversary on 17 November, 2022 in Dhaka

Textile Today Report

Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. — one of the largest textile dyes and chemicals supplier in Bangladesh and the sole agent of Huntsman Corporation — celebrated its 26th anniversary on 17 November at their corporate office in Dhaka. Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. commenced its journey in 1996 with a promise to provide the best level of textile dyes and chemicals to the Bangladesh Textile industry. It has a branch office in Chattogram which covers up to two large districts with the EPZs.

In the 26th anniversary event Akther Hossain, Chairman; Azhar Hossain, Managing Director, Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd; Md. Showkat Sarkar, Country Manager, Textile Effect Business, Huntsman Corporation; Nasir Bin Hussain, Sales Head-Textile Effects of Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd.; Sohel Rana, Technical Resource Head of Huntsman Textile Effects; Arfan Ali, Area Sales Manager, Textile Effect, SwissColours BD Ltd were present among others.

Akhtar Hossain founded Swiss Colours which is currently doing business with almost 400 factories. They have built buyers’ confidence by providing the best quality dyes and chemicals. Swiss Colours provides products and technical services in the textile and garments sector, maintaining a strong and transparent relationship among factories and buyers.

Expressing cordial thanks to their partners Akhtar Hossain said, “Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. takes pride in giving priority to its customers and looking after their needs, quality and customer

service are what distinguish us from others. We always strive to exceed our customers’ expectations and meet their requirements.”

Azhar Hossain said that in the last few years, Swiss Colours has made drastic changes in quality and service. With a team of 150 textile engineers, Swiss Colours and Huntsman are giving best technical solutions to the factories.

“Our journey began before 26 years ago by my father and honorable Chairman Akhtar Hossain. During the long path many people contributed us to become a leader in this sector. I want to thank all of them,” said Azhar Hossain.

We can not reach today’s position without the help of our valued customers who always loved us, supported us due to our quality products and services,” he added.

Mentioning a survey report — which was conducted by Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. and Huntsman Textile Effects — Showkat Sarker, Country Manager of Huntsman Textile Effects said, “Bangladesh is going to be a

hub for textile manufacturing. The country is already a hotspot and I believe the challenges we are facing currently in terms of energy and foreign currency are temporary. Bangladesh is still in an advantageous position.”

Swiss Colours consists of a team with technical experts who have over 10 years of experiences. They are ready to provide any technical solution to the industry in the field of dyes and chemicals. Supporting the textile industry by providing both technological solutions and products has made Huntsman one of the leading dyes and chemicals suppliers in Bangladesh.

Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. is not only selling the chemicals and dyes but also providing the technology and solutions to the industry.

These textile solutions provide color and enhance the aesthetic, durability, and performance of finished textiles, including functionality such as wrinkle resistance and water and stain repellence. In addition, Swiss Colours – Huntsman is focusing on making more sustainable products.

Figure: Swiss Colours Bangladesh Ltd. — one of the largest textile dyes and chemicals supplier in Bangladesh and the sole agent of Huntsman Corporation — celebrated its 26th anniversary on 17 November at their corporate office in Dhaka.

Dysin's calibration lab extension to enhance industries capabilities to achieve new height

Dysin Group has inaugurated their newly extended calibration laboratory, which is ISO/IEC 17025:2017 accredited, in Dhaka. Dysin leadership expressed that this calibration laboratory will enhance Bangladesh’s industries calibration parameters.

Dysin Group is one the pioneer to introduce new technologies for the knit-dyeing, garments washing and garments printing industries in Bangladesh. Expert technical support and Extensive Laboratory services have been the key to its growth.

instruments Calibration. With a wide range of calibration capabilities in mechanical, electrotechnical, thermal, humidity, and pressure to serve various industries. Also, Dysin’s calibration laboratory is serving industries like textile and garments, pharmaceuticals, steel mills, feed mills, food and beverage, power plants and paints.

Global calibration services market size was valued at $2.5 Billion in 2020 and about to reach $6.5 Billion by 2028, growing at a CAGR of 2.6% from 2021 to 2028. One of the major reasons driving the market’s growth is rapid industrialization, which is accompanied by an increase in the need for testing and measuring instruments.

Furthermore, growing public awareness of the need of protecting and maintaining instruments and machinery is boosting the market growth.

Dysin focuses to serve various segments with capabilities as well as try to adopt recent trends and factors that are playing a substantial role in the market.

With this new Calibration Laboratory – Dysin’s Bangladesh Accreditation Board (BAB) accredited Calibration parameter number reached 17.

This newly extended Calibration Laboratory increased Dysin’s new scopes of calibration- force, humidity, flow liquid, gas & steam, electro technical and sound parameters.

Regarding the laboratory, Md. Amanur Rahman, Managing Director of Dysin Group, said, “Our extension of the Calibration lab is a part of that strategic plan, which will cater to the growth of the market.”

“Dysin is the pioneer in Bangladesh in terms of accredited textile Calibration lab. As the growth of Bangladesh’s industries are sky rocketing – the need for quality Calibration is ever more increasing,” Amanur Rahman added.

Dysin has on-site and In-house calibration scopes and ensures pick & drop service for in-house

Dysin has invested in developing local technical expertise, such as ISO-certified laboratories, technology & demonstration centers for Dyeing, Printing and washing. Their first manufacturing unit for Textile Auxiliaries was established in 1990 and has grown over the years, he added.

Textile Today Report

Figure 1: Dysin Group Chairman, Mizanur Rahman and Managing Director, Md. Amanur Rahman – along with other high-ups inaugurated the newly extended calibration laboratory.

Figure 2: The newly extended Calibration Laboratory increased Dysin’s new scopes of calibration- force, humidity, flow liquid, gas & steam, electro technical and sound parameters.

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