Denim Today December 2018

Unveiling industry best practices

D e n i m F a b r i c & E ff e c t s D e ce m b e r 2 01 8

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 12 l Pages 97 to 113

What will be the denim trend of 2019?

Bangladesh's denim washing and its fashion scenario

Absolute Denim to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing

Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & Knitwear

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Bangladesh government has to prioritize denim sector and provide all-out support to the entrepreneurs Akhi Akter Denim fabrics and its diversified products have become the leading products for the homegrown exporter of Bangladesh. The country has turned into a hot spot for denim exporting in global markets. Bangladesh, the second largest producer of denim products after China, is exporting denim products approximately

denim fabrics manufacturing.

The major global retailers in the world to which Bangladesh supplies denim products are H&M, Uniqlo, Tesco, Walmart, Levi's, Diesel, Wrangler, G-Star, s.Oliver, Hugo Boss, and Gap. Denim export scenario Bangladesh’s denim manufacturers

Jackets, Blue Denim Suit Type Coats MB, Playsuits and Sun suits etc.

With a 14.20% market share, Bangladesh now is also the third largest exporter of denim products in the US after Mexico and China.

From January-September period of 2018, the country saw a 14.20% rise in export earning i.e. $419.21 million, which was $367.10 million during the same period of 2017.

US Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) released the data recently.

On the other hand, China earned 1.3% more than 2017 summing up a $683 million export earnings, while Mexico has seen a 1.08% increase in export from 2017 to $595.40 million. Vietnam, a close competitor of Bangladesh in the US market earned 41.95% more i.e. $205.43 million which was $144.72 million during 2017. While Cambodia saw a 30.85% rise in export to $88.34 million.

250 million pieces every year all over the world mostly in the EU and US market. To produce denim products the monthly demand for denim fabric is about 80 million yards and the sector is able to meet about 50 to 60% locally. Rest of the fabrics are imported from different countries.

have seen a strong upsurge in the export of denim products in the markets of the US and European Union (EU) beating its biggest competitor, China. Exported denim products include Blue Denim Trousers WG, Blue Denim Trousers MB, Blue Denim Skirts, Blue Denim

According to the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association (BTMA), Bangladesh currently has 31 denim fabric manufacturing factories, which produce over 400.40 million meters of fabrics every year. In addition, there are around 400 denim product manufacturers in the country. According to people involved in the denim sector, Bangladesh has already made an investment of Tk15,000 crore in

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According to statistics from the Directorate-General of the European Commission, Eurostat, Bangladesh has earned â‚Ź917.14 million from exporting denim products to EU countries during January-August period of 2018,

From Bangladesh to the world

H&M

Wrangler

Tesco Diesel

Walmart Levi's

Uniqlo Gap

Hugo Boss

G-Star s.Oliver

H&M

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Blue Denim Trousers WG Blue Denim Jackets

Sun suits

China is the largest exporters of apparel goods in the world. The trade war between these two giants has brought a number of orders for Bangladeshi denim manufacturers.

a result, EU and USA buyers are moving to Bangladesh for sourcing denim products.

After the announcement Exported of Trans-Pacific denim Partnership products Blue Denim Playsuits Trousers MB (TPP), US include retailers wanted to go to different manufacturers for Blue Denim Blue Denim Suit Type sourcing apparel Skirts Coats MB goods, rather than Bangladesh.

However, they changed their decision after US president Donald which is 4.23% higher from exports Trump dismissed the idea of earned in the corresponding joining the TPP. period of last year.

Experts said that Chinese products are becoming costlier due to the rise in workers’ wage. As the trade war between China and the US is a62

On the other hand, Bangladesh has increased its production capacity in both denim fabrics manufacturing and other denim products. The Bangladeshi manufacturers have also moved to introduce latest technologies for improved quality of products. In recent times, Bangladesh has seen the establishment of state of the art denim fabrics manufacturing plants, which has increased production capacity. This has helped to attract more work orders from the US and EU buyers.

Bangladesh government is setting up the ‘Sheikh Hasina Specialized Jute Textile Mill’ in 34 acres of land at Kamariya Char in Madarganj.

The factory will be able to export 4,32,000 dozens of denim pants every year. Besides, 2,13,40,00 gauze of denim and other fabrics can be produced, which can be supplied to the garment factory of the country at a reasonable price. However, it has more demand of denim products and fabrics but we are supplying less right now. For the scarcity of own raw materials, technological inefficiency, efficient port services, and skilled manpower the sector is facing several challenges.

To overcome the remaining challenges local millers are trying hard. However, at the same time, the Bangladesh government has to prioritize the denim sector and provide maximum support to the entrepreneurs.

The ability to supply denim fabrics at a competitive price has helped the country to gain great global market access. The growth of denim in terms of production, export, and investment marked a 30-35% rise in the local market over the last three years as almost all major textile producers have been producing denim especially since 2005 after the withdrawal of the quota system.

Denim is a fabric made of cotton twill that is 100% cotton and very comfortable. This fabric is used all over the world to make jeans, jackets, shirts, purses, bags, and many other accessories for men and women of all ages.

Reasons behind the growth Improved technology in fabrics manufacturing, improvement of safety standards in the apparel sector and the trade war between China and the US are the main reasons for Bangladesh’s steady growth in exports earnings.

In the EU and USA markets, Bangladeshi denim products are doing much better for its quality and competitive price rates. In recent time, production cost in China and other countries have gone up due to a wage hike. As

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There is no such unified, safe and secure sector in the world other than Bangladesh. That is why, Alliance for Bangladesh Workers, a platform of American buyers has certified Bangladesh as a safe place, which also boosted buyers’ confidence for sourcing products from here.

The US is the single largest importer of clothing products and

Latest technology

Safest workplace

threat for the US importers over duty imposition. Bangladesh is benefitting the most from this trade conflict. At the same time, while China is shutting down factories due to a rise in pollution so, ultimately these work orders will go to Bangladesh, Vietnam or Cambodia.

Conclusion

Quality products in competitive price

Figure: Strengths of Bangladesh denim sector.

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Bangladesh’s denim washing and its fashion scenario Abir Basak Washing is the most prominent vertical growth sector in Bangladesh. Day by day, its popularity is going to apex. That is why investors are coming forward to grab this business opportunity. If we look at a few years back, we can see this sector stood in the poor basement.

There was not enough expert and educated personnel in this section literally. Foreign expert, especially from Turkey, directed to the country’s wash department.

They did not want to flash the working procedure and recipe with local staffs. However, that weird situation has been changed a lot gradually. Many exportoriented washing plants have been developed and are developing.

Local experts are grown with vast knowledge who are bouncing this trendy sector now.

Wash is popular in jeans If we think about jeans, the first

color ‘blue’ comes in our mind, especially in denim. However, in addition to blue, various types of colorful or faded jeans are also on demand. These variations come after washing usually. One of the most important parts of the creation of the beautiful denim jeans is the washing.

Engr. Maidul Islam Morad, Wash Technician (R&D) of Elaine Apparels Ltd (JHR Group) said, “The real magic of jeans is wash.

The washing habits that currently underway include an enzyme, dip dye, acid wash, stone enzyme wash or random wash and reactive, disperse, dischargeable dyeing. These washed clothes are worn by young age boys and girls.

Usually, stone, enzyme, vintage or towel wash in jeans pant are seen frequently. Medium and acid wash are run in the shirt. To make the difference in the belt loop, it is set slantwise in many pants. Apart from this, it is seen the difference in the coin pocket shape. Top or bottom jeans, there are stylish magic with the warmth of winter.”

Nowadays, different types of eye-catching wash bear extra

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Transforming Human Capital

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products has been increased significantly. As it is available to get fabrics from local, attires are sent quickly and buyers want exactly this,” Mredha continued.

R&D culture

dimension in the denim fashion world. Washed clothes are being gotten extra importance to the western and eastern generation.

Generally, the demand for washed, faded, bleached, soft, torn denim remains as skyscraper than solid denim. Not only denim, but washing is also being done in normal woven or knit attires. So, based on this growing demand, buyers are going to make more washed clothes.

Why Bangladesh is ahead in jeans making Currently, denim clothes are being made from 300-400 garment factories here in Bangladesh.

According to the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association (BTMA), Bangladesh currently has 31 denim fabric manufacturing factories.

But yet, denim is imported 40-50 percent of the demand. However, traders said that the country’s three to four new denim mills will start their production soon.

The way forward of Bangladesh in jeans is because of the ‘wash’, through which dark and light shades of denim cloth are brought. The thing is that jeans without washing are worthless. To wash, garments are treated with chemicals and with big machinery.

After, the washing process is done with the sandpaper or with the help of laser. Cheap labor, low gas price, available water drawing the foreign buyers and investors towards Bangladesh.

The factories here make each of the quality jeans at an average of nine to fifteen dollars which is very 104

affordable for the buyers.

Levi’s, Diesel, Wrangler, Replay, Hugo Boss, G-Star Raw, Lee, Pepe, Tommy & Hilfiger, Jack and Jones, Calvin Klein, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap, Tesco, Walmart, JC Penny, LPP, Debenhams, Zara, Kmart, Sears, Decathlon, Guess, Gucci, Lidl, Espirit are among the world’s best brands of jeans and almost all of them make their jeans from Bangladeshi factories. Denim shirts, jackets, and kids’ garments are also made as well.

Mahbub Mredha, Head of R&D (washing) of Tarasima Apparels Ltd said, “Earlier we had to import denim fabrics but now our locally produced fabric quality has been improved a lot and capacity also increased. As a result, worldfamous brands are now making high priced unique designed & washed jeans from Bangladesh.”

“The number denim production mills are increasing in Bangladesh apparently and export of denim

It is an important part of washing to go forward towards innovation.

Besides, it is such a place where any employee can showcase his/ her level of creativity. To attract the buyers, the factories show their new product, style and innovation usually but still maximum designs are provided from respective buyers. That indicates Research and Development (R&D) section is not much developed yet.

There are some factories like Bitopi group, Nassa, Beximco, IDS, Denimach, Envoy etc. has their own design studio where local and foreign designers develop exclusive samples. So, if the local manufacturers emphasize R&D and effective innovation, profit margin could be increased.

Number of washing plants We can undoubtedly say that the number of washing factories in the country is far more than ever. Good quality washing factories have been developed in the combination of modern equipment and in working friendly environment. Out of them, many factories received LEED Platinum certificate and got accredited from different renowned buyers.

Every year many plants are being developed with advanced

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“Damage and destroy the look of denim is more trendy to men.

Currently, denim’s trendy vintage look (old look) is more popular.

Fashionable various printed designs of denim products are available in the market,” he added.

technology. According to the information given by Bangladesh Garments Washing Technologist Foundation (BGWTF), more than five hundred washing plants are spread over the country. But the numbers of registered plants of organization (2016) are 255.

Thoughts from fashion houses about trendy denim Although it’s a whole year phenomenon, the demand for denim products has increased

Asif Iqbal, Fashion Designer of a local fashion house O2 said, “Due to the popularity among young people, the variety of washing is being done nowadays. Especially in winter, it has seen more variety of denim clothings. Young people are wearing top and bottom-wise denim clothes.”

much before the coming of winter.

Mohammed Pavel, Manager of ‘Freeland’ a local popular fashion house said, “Straight, narrow and slim fit- these three types of denim styles are now popular among the young generation. Regular jeans are now being mostly replaced by super skinny jeans and stretchable tapered jeans. Nowadays jeans is becoming popular with girls because of its stretchy nature, comfortably etc.”

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FSD Courses

The government and garment sector entrepreneurs have set export targets of US$ 50 billion from the garment sector by 2021.

But it is not possible to reach this target only by exporting lowend garments. So, manufacturers have to go forward to produce high value-added and fashionable products such as denim. And there is no substitute for washing to look appetizing fashionable denim attire.

Certified Wash Technologist

Options

Date

Time

Denim Development & Manufacturing

Mandatory

18th, 25th January & 1st, 2nd February

Garments Washing & Effects

Mandatory

26th January, 2nd, 9th & 16th February.

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Textile Fibre, Yarn & Fabric

Optional

16th, 23rd February & 2nd, 9th March

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Quality Control & Inspection

Optional

12th, 19th, 26th & 29th January.

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Sustainability & 3R (Reduce, Reuse & Recycle)

Optional

9th, 16th, 23rd & 30th March

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Printing Design & Development

Optional

8th, 15th, 22nd & 29th March

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Partcipants have to take 4 courses from above 6 for being Certified Wash Technologist.

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Contact: House-25A, Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh. +88 02 55093682 | +88 01734211085 | info@textiletoday.com.bd h t t p : // t ra i n i n g .t ex t i l e t o d ay.c o m . b d

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What will be the denim trend of 2019?

Md Meherul Islam (Sohel) DGM (Fabric Technology and Sourcing), Kenpark Bangladesh 2018 is almost over, so it only makes sense to start the New Year with denim trends that you will actually want to wear more than once. Analyzing the company’s strategy for 2019, it is seen that all are focusing on green denim products. Based on denim fairs all over the world like King Pins, Bangladesh Denim Expo etc. I am going to give you a comprehensive idea about what will be the 2019 denim trends!

Key trends of 2019 1. R aw material and process sustainability Sustainability is still the key message from the show. Very highend supplier to competitive one everyone is offering the sustainable product in terms of Sustainable Raw material or the process.

A. Recycled or upcycled of cotton B. R ecycle polyester. Mainly Repreve by Unifi C. Refibra (Tencel with upcycled cotton scrap) by Lenzing D. K itotex Vegal (sustainable sizing Materials) from Candiani Denim E. Relast Stretch (recycle elastane from ROICA, Japan) by Candiani F. H YPNO (PP and Hypochlorite replacement bleach replacement) from Rudolf G. L aser Friendly Fabric by ORTA, Candiani H. Sustainable Method of dyeing

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by water and energy savings.

process.

I. S titch and ship (No wash) concept from Neela Denim

B. E co Made Cool max and thermolite.

J. 5 Zero concepts from Jenologia (No manual scraping and grinding, bleach, PP spray, Stone, discharge)

C. T rue Tem365, Tru Dry, Tru Touch, Tru Colo by Unifi from Recycled polyester.

K. E arth color and Advance denim dyeing from Archroma.

2. Sustainability combines with functionality

D. T ru Touch polyester is a cotton hand feel filament polyester, which hand feel is really good in Unifi sample.

3. Selvedge denim

This is one of the uprising concepts, how sustainability club with Functionality and give the customer more comfort.

A. F ibre Dyed Modal from Lenzing with TrueTone recycle Polyester, which gives a Forever color concept. At this moment supplier like Naveena, Cone is mainly showing the Black color.

But another color also can be done. Lenzing is providing nine colors at this moment.

Fibre dyed modal and True Tone polyester both are claimed to be sustainable due no dyeing required in post process as well as polyester is recycle. And Modal production is also done by the sustainable

It seems selvedge denim trend reborn once again. Lots of suppliers (kurabo, Cone, Tatfung, Arvind, Artistic, Candiani etc.) showing selvedge.

And it has been mixed with modern denim concept like stay blue, stretch, sustainable etc. and with a different construction of Rigid and stretch.

4. Color denim Once again after a slow trend, lots of suppliers showing color denim in garment dyed form, as well as Sulphur/indigo look reactive yarn dyed. Foison and Bossa show a wide range of PFD for garment dyeing with different fiber blend.

Arvind shows their Sorbet concept to have yarn dyed look by PFD garment dyed. And Kurab shows

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6. Printed denim Printed denim started slowly picking up once again, stared with stripe denim. Mill like Foison, Tatfung, and Kipas showed a good collection and print. But more subtle in design and color.

their Prime blue concept where fabric can piece dyed but will end of with yarn dyed look.

7. D obby inspired denim for tops and jackets Lots of dobby inspired denim

intage salt and pepper looks still 8. V running with some lower note Vintage salt and pepper looks continue with a modern denim modification like the softer handle, sustainable dyeing process, and high stretch.

9. Functionality in denim’s continues Arvind and Vita have shown Graphene denim as a very new concept which is still under development process, as still test data to be validated.

5. T encel and Modal blend soft handle denim Along with ladies wear soft denim, suppliers are showing men’s heavier wt soft handle denim, which is blended with Tencel and modal.

Cone and Unifi show a wider variety of functional denim yarn with the sustainable concept.

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has been shown for Tops and Jackets along with lightweight twill and chambray. Arvind, Prospeirity, Tatfung, Neela, Kipas etc is very good at it. And the same concept develop with Indigo in both warp and weft has given and nice Japanese trend in it.

Certified Apparel Merchandiser

Options

Date

Time

Apparel Supply Chain Management

Mandatory

22th, 29th March & 5th, 12th April

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Apparel Marketing

Mandatory

15th, 22nd, 29st March & 5th April.

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Product Development

Optional

11th, 18th, 25th & 27th January

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Industrial Engineering

Optional

29th, March, 5th, 12th & 15th April

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Production Planning & Control

Optional

5th, 11th, 18th & 20th January

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Quality Control & Inspection

Optional

12th, 19th, 26th & 29th January

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Partcipants have to take 4 courses from above 6 for being Certified Apparel Merchandiser.

Transforming Human Capital

NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP

Contact:  House-25A, Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh.  +88 02 55093682 |  +88 01734211085 |  info@textiletoday.com.bd  h t t p : // t ra i n i n g .t ex t i l e t o d a y.c o m . b d

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Denim goes greener through the whole weaving value chain Desk Report Prosperity Textile acting as a pioneer and choosing the first sustainable innovation in the weaving industry: the brand-new iSAVER™ by Itema A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainableoriented Itema technologies,

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving This new technology, developed

by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, is able to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction, and energy saving.

Just consider that the weaver will

of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding userfriendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving.

A joint eco-driven path Itema, understand very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop

Figure 1: Itema R95002denim.

iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, futureoriented approach.

Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn – even the weaving production – green.

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gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 every year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine every year – the 3% of the total raw materials – will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.

Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features

breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric.

This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility.

Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-the-art denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.

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What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products highquality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain.

Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement, and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management.

The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denim, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9%, and 5.4% respectively.

In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role. The recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cuttingedge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company.

Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.

Itema at DTG 2019 Itema is exhibiting at DTG Dhaka (Hall 7 / 510) from January 9th

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Figure 2: Itema iSAVER.

– 12th at BICC – Bangabandhu International Conference Centre in a joint booth with its sole agent in the country Pacific Associates to get in touch with the Bangladeshi textile industry and deliver its technological and customer approach highlights.

The Italian based Company will showcase its absolute worldwide best-seller, the Itema rapier machine R9500. The R9500 on the show, courtesy of the Itema Customer Well Group based in Chattogram, will exhibit a shirting fabric which represents one of the most produced in the Bangladeshi weaving mills. The Itema’s target is to demonstrate to the industry the textile superiority, the real production performances and the excellent efficiency of the R9500 when it comes to weaving the widest range of fabrics, including shirting, apparel, and fashion fabrics.

DTG is for Itema the perfect stage to allow the Bangladeshi weavers to experience first-hand of the advanced weaving technology and the worldwide Itema references, in what is defined as one of the future leading countries in the woven fabric production.

In fact, despite garment is a major industry in Bangladesh the biggest amount of fabric required is still imported from other countries.

In this landscape, the future development of the weaving

industry represents one of the main potential sectors for the growth of the Bangladeshi textile industry.

Itema positions itself as a reliable partner – and not only a simple supplier – for textile companies, providing best-in-class, made in Italy weaving machines along with real-time after-sales service, highly professional training for the weavers and integrated textile consultancy.

Itema is uniquely positioned in the market to offer textile manufacturers the top three weft insertion technologies – rapier, airjet and projectile, OEM spare parts, upgrade kits and a the dedicated online shop MyItema for the historic brands now part of Itema – Somet, Sulzer and Vamatex, plus highly professional trainings in 6 worldwide locations.

Itema, as a customer-oriented Company, wants to give to the Bangladeshi textile entrepreneurs a valuable option in the market and features a solid organization in the country, relying on a trained and professional locally based team of technicians.

The Italian representatives of the Company along with the Bangladeshi Itema dedicated team will be at DTG to meet the industry players, to listen to their needs and to show them the multiple possibilities and advantages that they could get by dealing with Itema.

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Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

D e n i m To d a y

Absolute Denim to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing FT Research Team Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that Thailand-based Absolute Denim will be the first denim manufacturer to switch 100% of its production to anilinefree* indigo dyeing.

addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols), it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

Absolute Denim is a Thailandbased denim manufacturer producing high-quality denim with a focus on eco-friendlier materials and processes. The company can produce up to 2 million meters of denim per month (that’s approximately 1.5 million pairs of jeans!), for customers that include some of the biggest brands and retailers in the world.

liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In

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The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30

Archroma tested Denisol® Pure Indigo at Absolute Denim mill in Thailand. Archroma wanted to be sure that the new indigo dye would perform exactly the same as

conventional indigo.

James Carnahan, Head of Sustainability at Archroma, comments: “At Archroma we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable - but we cannot do it alone. Without forward-thinking manufacturers such as Absolute Denim to consciously adopt these eco-advanced innovations in their daily production, like our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo, we will not be able to move this industry forward on our resourceconstrained world we live in. As consumers are increasingly aware of, and concerned about, climate change and ecological threats, this is not only the right thing to do - it is also good for business.”

“Deep down inside most of us want the world to be a better place for our loved ones and for future generations,” insists Vichai Phromvanich, Board Member, Absolute Denim, “starting with how we live, what we eat, what we wear, still trying to be cool, fashionable, still trying to be environmentally conscious.

Archroma’s aniline free indigo project is, therefore, something we as a new generation manufacturer have supported from the beginning, by opening our doors for tests in the project phase, and now by sending out our articles to many of our customers. For us, after all, a nice pair of jeans looks even nicer without aniline!”

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

D e n i m To d a y

Denim hubs decline as a new tier of jeans suppliers arise The demand for jeans remains strong as U.S. imports of denim apparel increased 7.87% worth of $3.24bn compared to the same period in 2017 where Bangladesh shipments to the U.S. rose 12.78 percent to $481.41mn FT Research Team Denim hubs have experienced declines as a new tier of jeans suppliers arise. China and Mexico have posted minor increases so far this year, while countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Pakistan are bringing in orders. Western Hemisphere countries like Colombia, Guatemala, and Nicaragua have also seen consistent gains.

U.S. jeans imports from China rose just 2.91 percent for the year through October to $790.89 million worth of goods, compared to the year-ago period, while

shipments from Mexico inched up 1.61 percent in the same timeframe to $679.41 million.

Imports from both countries have only increased slightly as the countries face disruption in U.S. trade policy. In order to mitigate risk in their supply chains, the countries have had to shift sourcing plans.

Tariffs have caused China to lose a majority of its jeans market share to other Asian nations.

Vietnam saw shipments to the U.S. rose 46.16 percent in the last 10 months to $248.95 million, while Bangladesh saw shipments increase 12.78 percent to $481.41 million.

Figure: Bangladesh shipments of denim products to the U.S. rose 12.78 percent to $481.41mn in 2017.

Countries

Shipments (Value in $MN)

% increase compared to the year-ago period

China

790.89

2.91

Mexico

679.41

1.61

Bangladesh

481.41

12.78

Vietnam

248.95

46.16

Pakistan

206.05

12.52

Cambodia

99.08

27.49

India

31.35

44.59

CAFTA countries

116.37

7.37

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Other Asian suppliers seeing gains include Pakistan, with imports rising 12.52 percent to $206.05 million; Cambodia, with shipments up 27.49 percent to $99.08 million; and India, posting a 44.59 percent hike to $31.35 million.

Meanwhile, suppliers are also taking market share from Mexico since they have the same attributes of quick shipping times and duty-free trade because of the Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA).

U.S. jeans imports from CAFTA countries rose 7.37 percent in the 10 months to $116.37 million worth of goods.

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